RV-Archive.digest.vol-qj
January 11, 2005 - January 19, 2005
>Matthew Brandes,
>Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
>EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
>www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mitch Faatz" <mitchf(at)skybound.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 430 memory power |
I've seen several messages in the archives referring to hooking up some power pins
on the Garmin 430 to an always-on bus for frequency memory retention, which
1) strikes me as odd that the 430 would need that and 2) don't see any references
to this in the Garmin installation manual. Who knows the real deal here?
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburn, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 430 memory power |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Not required.
Mike
--- Original Message ---
From: "Mitch Faatz" <mitchf(at)skybound.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 430 memory power
I've seen several messages in the archives referring to hooking up some power pins
on the Garmin 430 to an always-on bus for frequency memory retention, which
1) strikes me as odd that the 430 would need that and 2) don't see any references
to this in the Garmin installation manual. Who knows the real deal here?
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburn, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: battery charging |
>
>Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >So I take it you would not recommend keeping a "float" type charger on
> >whenever the plane is in the hangar?
> >
> >
>I don't know how dangerous leaving a lead acid battery on float charge
>is, but I have read that if you do leave it on float charge you need to
>be sure the charge voltage is no more than 13.8V for a 12V battery. Any
>higher and it will damage the battery. That may be why the tractor
>battery Dan Hopper mentioned had an untimely demise. For a cycle
>charge, the charge voltage can be as high as 15V.
That is correct. An inexpensive "dumb" charger can go to too high
of a voltage. The float voltage is dependant on temperature, but Hawker
recommends 13.6 volts for their AGM batteries.
I should note that in general, AGMs have very low self-discharge
rates. That is, they stay charged pretty long on the shelf. Thus, if there
is no draw (like for the memory in your radio) you would only need to top
off your AGM two or three times per year, perhaps less.
Here is a link to some useful technical information about Hawker
batteries:
http://www.rosebatteries.com/whitepapers/hawker_whitepaper.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Several people have asked for pictures of my plenum. If I have missed anyone
please let me know or maybe someone can take them and post them. I would be
happy to answer any questions.
Thanks
John Furey
RV6A O-320 300 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry James" <larry(at)ncproto.com> |
"RV List"
Thanks for the input so far!
Pro's for the tip over:
simple
light
better visibility
easier ingress/egress
Pro's for the slider:
safety in fixed windscreen (thanks Doug)
safety in stronger windscreen (my original reason for exploring this option)
cool factor (well, it does count; doesn't it?)
My reasoning so far goes like this: I think I can build a slider with very
little to no weight penalty to a tip-over; and I like having that fixed
windscreen in case of a bird strike; and I have significantly changed my
cockpit layout such that ingress/egress to the pilot would be fine with the
slider. I also think I can build the canopy bow to minimize visibility
impairment and drag (all composite bow and canopy frame/skirt). So far the
slider is winning. Any more input ??
cheers,
Larry E. James
Bellevue, WA HR2 fuselage/systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Now THIS is an idea! |
I purchased a pair of Clarity Aloft head sets that are very similar at OSH.
I find them very comfortable and use them more than my Bose X.
www.clarityaloft.com
John Rv6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Spicer" <spike(at)spikesplace.org> |
>Several people have asked for pictures of my plenum. If I have missed
anyone >please let me know or maybe someone can take them and post them.
I would be >happy to answer any questions.
and Ill put them up in my gallery.
-- John
www.rivetbangers.com - A marriage of web and email. No ads, just
builders
www.spikesplace.org/cgi-php/serendipity - Build Log
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Spicer" <spike(at)spikesplace.org> |
Done. John's plenum pictures may be found at:
http://www.rivetbangers.com/cgi-php/gallery/inprogress/johnFureysPlenum3
http://www.rivetbangers.com/cgi-php/gallery/inprogress/johnFureysPlenum2
http://www.rivetbangers.com/cgi-php/gallery/inprogress/johnFureysPlenum1
Beautiful work John, it looks excellent!
-- John
RV-9A 91074
www.rivetbangers.com - Building more than RV's
www.spikesplace.org/cgi-php/serendipity - Builder's Log
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 01/11/2005 7:26:03 PM Central Standard Time,
john(at)fureychrysler.com writes:
John Furey
RV6A O-320 300 hrs
>>>
I see you HAVE tested them- and the survey says?
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I would say that they were very effective. Unfortunately I took them off in
an act of desperation to get my cyl head temps down only to find the culprit
was the casting flash that was a thread on this list about a week later.
Cleaning the flashing made about 30 degree difference.
JF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
Does the absence of usual airflow over the crankcase drive oil temperatures
up at all?
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Furey
Subject: RE: RV-List: Plenum Pics
I would say that they were very effective. Unfortunately I took them off in
an act of desperation to get my cyl head temps down only to find the culprit
was the casting flash that was a thread on this list about a week later.
Cleaning the flashing made about 30 degree difference.
JF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
| Subject: | double countersunk rivnut |
Does anyone make a rivnut that is both countersunk in the back to go in a
dimpled hole and also countersunk on the face so you can attach an access
plate that is dimpled with a countersunk screw? I was thinking of trying to
countersink a regular rivnut, but it doesn't look like there is near enough
material on the head to do this.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Hi all, I'm just about ready to attach my flaps to the wings but I haven't riveted
on the bottom skins yet. Is it necessary to rivet the bottom skins on first
to accurately drill the flap hinge or can I use a heap of clecoes on the skin.
I'd prefer to leave the skins off for as long as possible so I can take longer
to decide on wiring and also I haven't got my pitot tube yet (waiting for the
heated Dynon). It would be good to drill it out now so I can get on with the
countersinking dimpling etc. and then finally prime the flap brace etc. and put
it on the shelf until I'm ready to rivet.
Also which kit has the NACA duct that is glued/riveted under the wing, it would
be nice to put that on now before the skin is riveted on.
Greg
82070
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/11/05 9:10:02 PM Central Standard Time, kathleen(at)rv7.us
writes:
> Does the absence of usual airflow over the crankcase drive oil temperatures
> up at all?
>>>>
Hi Kathleen-
My dual plenums are very similar to Johns, just lower toward the rear with
the tops installed with screws- oil temps stay between 175-190 degrees,
regulated when necessary (rarely) by a butterfly valve in my oil cooler inlet
(firewall mounted). This is on a 150hp Lycoming.
Fotos if interested.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: battery charging |
In a message dated 1/11/05 4:39:37 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net writes:
I don't know how dangerous leaving a lead acid battery on float charge
is, but I have read that if you do leave it on float charge you need to
be sure the charge voltage is no more than 13.8V for a 12V battery. Any
higher and it will damage the battery. That may be why the tractor
battery Dan Hopper mentioned had an untimely demise. For a cycle
charge, the charge voltage can be as high as 15V.
Chris,
You're absolutely right about the voltage limit for floating the battery. I
think the voltage varies with temperature -- being higher at lower
temperatures and visa-versa. But by limiting the voltage, the current will drop
to
almost zero and the loss of electrolyte will therefore drop dramatically. The
charger that I used (which is very common) was a simple transformer/rectifier
with no regulation. This type of charger will very likely eventually
over-voltage the battery.
Thanks for reminding me of that.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A
Waiting for the runway to dry or freeze to go flying again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
My oil temps are so low I put a butterfly valve to cut off all the air and I
seldom see anything above 200 on the hotest days during climb.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollins(at)visi.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Attaching flaps |
You can leave the skins unriveted and just clecoed, Greg, but the main
problem is getting the hinge, skin and flap brace to line up properly for
drilling. The flap brace is going to sag a bit and if you were to cleco it
too, then the hinge doesn't fit flush against the brace for drilling.
One solution is to squeeze a couple of temporary rivets attaching the flap
brace to the skin (I think I used just three...one in the middle and one
near -- but not exactly at -- each end. I'd use a very small rivet so that
the shop head is also quite small. And then it's easier to mount hinge and
clamp it in place. Then, after you drill all the holes ('cept for those
were the rivets are, of course, you can take the flap/hinge off....drill out
the temporary rivets...remount the assembly using clecoes this time and
drill out the holes where the temporary rivets were.
Bob
St. Paul
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: Attaching flaps
Hi all, I'm just about ready to attach my flaps to the wings but I haven't
riveted
on the bottom skins yet. Is it necessary to rivet the bottom skins on first
to accurately drill the flap hinge or can I use a heap of clecoes on the
skin.
I'd prefer to leave the skins off for as long as possible so I can take
longer
to decide on wiring and also I haven't got my pitot tube yet (waiting for
the
heated Dynon). It would be good to drill it out now so I can get on with
the
countersinking dimpling etc. and then finally prime the flap brace etc. and
put
it on the shelf until I'm ready to rivet.
Also which kit has the NACA duct that is glued/riveted under the wing, it
would
be nice to put that on now before the skin is riveted on.
Greg
82070
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Paule" <dpaule(at)frii.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Now THIS is an idea! |
Not all the sound comes in through the headset. Some of it comes in right
through your head.
Years ago I learned that I could hear a handheld radio in my noisy Skywagon
cockpit, without a headset, if I pressed the speaker to my chin, right
through my beard. I got the idea on an earlier flight, in the backseat of
another plane, when the top of my head intermittently touched the ceiling
and I heard lots of noise at those times.
Try pressing some part of your head to some part of the airframe next time
you go flying and you'll see.
Dave Paule
Boulder, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Now THIS is an idea! |
I think the $100 difference may be because the AuriComm doesn't mention a
Music/Cell phone interface.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Steube" <at6c(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RV wing tip lenses |
I am in the process of installing the wing tip lenses (VA-172) on my RV8 and
can't find much in the plans as to a recommended method. Any
recommendations? Thanks.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Double Sided Tape... |
vansairforce
I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
...not the foam crap!
Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado
www.rv8a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ivan McLaws" <toejam(at)cybertrails.com> |
I'm about to test fly an RV-6A that were completing. Have an IO-360 which was
put together by B.A.P. and an Ed Sterba wood prop. I don't have the cash for
a constant speed prop yet but have never flown behind wood.
Question I have is to anyone that may have a wood prop or who has had one. How
are they? Anyone ever flown behind a prop by Sterba?
I live in Arizona so most of the year am not in the rain and the RV is hangared.
I'd appreciate any comments.
Ivan McLaws
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
Bill,
We have some really good double faced tape to hold the placards we make. The
manufacturer states that the more heat and humidity the stronger it bonds.
It can be removed, but you'll have to work at it.
Send me your address and how much you want and I'll send some right out to
you.
Wayne Cahoon
Aircraft Engravers
(860) 653-2780
(860) 653-7324 Fax
http://www.engravers.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
; "vansairforce"
Subject: RV-List: Double Sided Tape...
>
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
> like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
> ...not the foam crap!
>
> Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - Colorado
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
There are numerous places that carry it. The good stuff IS EXPENSIVE, were
talking $50~75 per roll. The kind you are talking about is adhesive only. I
would try and find local distributors. McMaster-Carr has good stuff but not
adhesive only. A place called R.S. Hughes, carries it, closest place to you
is in Denver 303-371-9440. Just make sure your sitting down when they give
you the price.
Some of the tapes now days are amazing. I once say a strip of foam tape it
was 2 pieces stuck to itself. No matter how hard you pulled it would not
come apart
it would stretch 1/2 inch plus, and then go pack together, amazing stuff.
>
>I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
>like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
>...not the foam crap!
>
>Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A - Colorado
>www.rv8a.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
In a message dated 1/12/05 10:24:50 AM Central Standard Time,
bill(at)vondane.com writes:
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
> like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
> ...not the foam crap!
>>>>
Scotch VHB available from McMaster-Carr is available in .020 thickness- It's
foam, but pretty thin. This is some absolutely tenacious stuff- you better put
it exactly where you want it 'cause you pretty much have to cut/grind it off.
Not cheap, tho...
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Go to page 3205
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: double countersunk rivnut |
Not sure I understand what you are asking for here but sounds like you want
to dimple the rivet holes on a nutplate (countersunk screw type)....I just
stick them in my dimple die and give em a good hard whack with a steel
hammer. Works great, but is very hard on the dimple dies. I have a couple of
sets of them and just use my oldest set for this. I just did a bunch of them
last night for the countersunk screws on my wing inspection plates. All
installed and looking good.
Evan Johnson RV10 wings almost finished....
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: RV-List: double countersunk rivnut
>
> Does anyone make a rivnut that is both countersunk in the back to go in a
> dimpled hole and also countersunk on the face so you can attach an access
> plate that is dimpled with a countersunk screw? I was thinking of trying
to
> countersink a regular rivnut, but it doesn't look like there is near
enough
> material on the head to do this.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Mader" <davemader(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | battery charging |
Actually, it's pretty easy to get a timer for week long cycles. Used to do
it for my
r.c. planes all the time. Just get two timers. The first one turns the
second one on
for a set amount of time and then the second one runs the charger. Do any
combo
you want and it works very well.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris W
Subject: Re: RV-List: battery charging
<1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net>
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>So I take it you would not recommend keeping a "float" type charger on
>whenever the plane is in the hangar?
>
>
Another option to float charging that is supposed to be better for the
battery, is to have the charger on a timer so it comes on for an hour a
day. Get to thinking about it, that is for NiCd's. Lead acid batteries
go a few weeks before there is much self discharge, where a NiCd self
discharges a significant amount in the first 24 hours. If you were
going to do that to a lead acid battery, an hour or 2 a week would
probably be plenty. Now the trick is finding a timer that lets you go
in week long cycles.
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Milner" <tldrgred(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba Prop |
Ivan,
Ed Sterba is a good man and makes good props. I have two of his props and
have been using them for over 3yrs. A wood prop absorbs a lot of vibration
and smooths things out. For the money and looks I like wood.
Red Milner
RV-4 N79KM
based@UES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ivan McLaws" <toejam(at)cybertrails.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ed Sterba Prop
>
> I'm about to test fly an RV-6A that were completing. Have an IO-360 which
was put together by B.A.P. and an Ed Sterba wood prop. I don't have the
cash for a constant speed prop yet but have never flown behind wood.
>
> Question I have is to anyone that may have a wood prop or who has had one.
How are they? Anyone ever flown behind a prop by Sterba?
>
> I live in Arizona so most of the year am not in the rain and the RV is
hangared.
>
> I'd appreciate any comments.
>
> Ivan McLaws
>
>
> _____________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
Dan Parker demonstrated Scotch VHB tape to the Santa Clara CA chapter 6 or 7 years
ago. He made up some 'coupons' of aluminum about .020 thick. He made a few
using the tape to hold two skins together and a few using rivets. Pulling
on them, the riveted ones came apart first with the rivets tearing out.
I bought a roll I think about 50 feet for about $90. I've used it in a few places
on my RV6a with no problems in 170 hours. I was going to use it to stick
rudder skins to stiffeners but Van pointed out that flutter testing may need to
be redone so I didn't use it there. Had I been on to it earlier I would have
done seats, floors etc
When tape or glue is needed I tend to think that 3M Scotch is best.
hal
RV6a "Valentine" N7HK
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 1/12/05 10:24:50 AM Central Standard Time,
bill(at)vondane.com writes:
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba Prop |
I have flown with Ed and his props since the early 80's and his workmanship
has been outstanding. I built a Sonerai as did Ed and we put on many hours on
wood props. My RV4 has 241 hrs on a 68x74 and flys like a champ -- what else?
Good flying!
Clyde Seager
RV4 N28CS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba Prop |
Only a couple things to know about wood props:
1. Don't fly in the rain, and if do fly in the rain slow the rpm down as
much as possible or you will grind up the varnish and the wood.
Polyurethane leading edge inserts help, but they don't solve the problem.
2. Don't over torque the prop bolts, follow the manufacturers
recommendations for torque and retorque. and if you smell something like
burning paper, look for a fire on the ground. If you don't see one, you
better land, because your prop might be working loose.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ivan McLaws" <toejam(at)cybertrails.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ed Sterba Prop
>
> I'm about to test fly an RV-6A that were completing. Have an IO-360 which
> was put together by B.A.P. and an Ed Sterba wood prop. I don't have the
> cash for a constant speed prop yet but have never flown behind wood.
>
> Question I have is to anyone that may have a wood prop or who has had one.
> How are they? Anyone ever flown behind a prop by Sterba?
>
> I live in Arizona so most of the year am not in the rain and the RV is
> hangared.
>
> I'd appreciate any comments.
>
> Ivan McLaws
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Plenum Pics (separate individual plenums) |
John did nice work and there is no arguing with success.
However in the book:
Speed with Economy by Kent Paser, which chronicles the improvements on a Mustang
II over 20 years, taking it from about 180mph to something like +230mph on a
O-320,
Kent tried the separate individual L&R plenums and found a cooling imbalance between
the right and left bank, impart due to prop wash (in essence P-factor).
He went to the one piece plenum. With this change he gained speed and lowered
temps in the process. Get the book, worth it.
Further an article in EAA, Sport Aviation, about engine cooling and plenums, based
on a NASA report, concludes that more plenum volume improves cooling acting
as a reservoir.
Just another thought, John has a nice design. Even if there was a balance issue,
you could restrict the cool side inlet. John has good L&R balance anyway so
go figure. However, it proves a (good) plenum will cool well and be more efficient
than soft seals. The soft seals work but no matter how well you make them
they will leak more than a plenum. The above NASA reference found up to 50%
cooling leakage in GA aircraft and seals wear and get worse over time.
I think the plenum in someways is easier to install. I had seals on my RV-4; My
current RV-7 project will have a single volume plenum. The ease of plenum construction
for one cover vs. separate inner baffles is a factor.
Good work John.
Cheers, G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
vansairforce
they have a ton of these on ebay for like $20!
http://tinyurl.com/4mxey
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat
How about this heating blanket!?
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12volheathea.html
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Joel Harding
Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat
Another alternative for warming the GIB would be a 12 V heating pad. You could
sit on it, warm the tootsies one at a time, drape it over your head for that chilly
draft on the back of your neck, or just fold it up and use it for a pillow.
I could go on, but you get the idea. The down side is the extra cord floating
around the cabin, but for only forty bucks it might be worth a try. It's on
the same web page Dane mentioned, under Automotive Seat Heaters.
Joel Harding (Still waiting for the paint man to finish)
On Jan 3, 2005, at 6:57 AM, Dane Patterson wrote:
I ordered my rear seat heat kit from Sports Imports LTD.
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/afcarseathea.html
A Two Element kit for the seat bottom and the seat back sells for about $130.00.
They work great for the back seat and my wife is very pleased with them.
I don't think they would work for the front seat. The elements are heating pads
which can be cut in length but not in width. The front seats on an RV-8 are
very narrow, so this could be a problem, unless you wrap the element around
the sides, and maybe the back? The elements go inside the cushion between the
foam seat cushion and the cover, so they aren't really visible. You might want
to order the kit and sent the elements to who ever makes up your seats. Oregon
Aero glues everything together when they make their seats, so if they can
incorporate the heating elements into the seats, it'll save you the trouble
of having to peal the seat covers off the cushions and re-glueing them back down.
Once you have all the drafts from leaking canopy skirts, etc. the electric elements
in the rear seats should provide all the heat necessary for your GIB.
They draw about 3 - 4 Amps until they are warm, and the thermostat cuts down
the current to about 1 - 2 Amps.
David Rogers wrote:
Dane,
Where'd you get them from ? What brand name are they ? details please.
Thanks,
Dave R.
RV-8, Fuselage
N173DR (reserved)
76 Grumman AA-1B/160hp N1649R
-----Original Message-----
From: Dane Patterson [mailto:DanePatterson(at)charter.net]
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2004 6:35 PM
To: RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat
I put electric seat heaters in the cushions of the back seat. My wife loves them.
Dane Patterson
On Dec 12, 2004, at 2:42 AM, n767rk wrote:
what have builders done in the past for heat to the back seat of an
RV 8. Ron Korn
=95 To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/
=95 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV-8-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: battery charging |
Just to clarify the Battery Tender, Jr. is great to maintain, as the way you Gents
are using it. However, you can NOT fully charge a depleted battery, like an
Odyssey, with this kind of charger.
Per the manufactures recommendation this kind of charger should be use only on
a fully charged battery. The reason is the Battery Tender Jr. and similar chargers
do not have the current capacity to deep charge the battery. To fully charge
you need a higher amp charger.
Cheers G RV-4, RV-7 (project)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba Prop |
I was in the same boat- not enough cash for a C/S. I ended up with a
Sterba. It is a good prop and very smooth. However if you do encounter
rain reduce RPM to 2000 or less or you'll sand blast the leading edges
clean off. Watch the CG with the light prop, you might look at a Landol
balancer ring.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Hilger" <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Now THIS is an idea! |
I bought one of those lightweight, in-the-ear passive headsets at Oshkosh
last year. It's called Clarity Aloft. You can see it at
http://www.clarityaloft.com. It really took me by surprise. This headset
also uses the EAR foam replaceable earpieces. Works great. I've tried
Lightspeed and Flightcom Denali ANR headsets and they can't attenuate the
frequencies of noise we get in our RV's without affecting intercom and comm
quality. I've never tried Bose ANRs which I've heard are well worth their
price. The Clarity Aloft is pretty spendy, too, at $700 list. I paid $499 at
Oshkosh which I think might be closer to what the market will bear.
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM 650 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | -8A upper gear leg fairings... |
vansairforce
Anyone have some good ideas / photos of how to attach the upper gear leg
fairings on an -8A?
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -8A upper gear leg fairings... |
I split my fairings down the back side and bonded then on with goop. then
bonded the split together with goop. Goop is great because it can be worked
apart and will come off a surface by rubbing it. Of course I am making this
sound much easier than it is but there again how often do you plane to
remove the upper fairings? Oh, Goop can also be painted. Household Goop,
Plumbers Goop Marine Goop, all at Home Depot, and its all the same stuff
>
>Anyone have some good ideas / photos of how to attach the upper gear leg
>fairings on an -8A?
>
>-Bill
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
,
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape... |
Bill,
If you have a good specialty auto paint and trim place in your area they
will have the stuff for auto trim. I have some and it is great but you've
only got one shot to get it right!!! If you don't have such a place let me
know and I'll pick it up for you.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
; "vansairforce"
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape...
>
>
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
> like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
> ...not the foam crap!
>
> Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - Colorado
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
> Help save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's Research
Hospital's
> 'Thanks & Giving.'
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/6iY7fA/5WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
I have over 800 hours on a Bernie Warnke wood prop and it is wonderful
to fly behind. It is as smooth as they come, looks wonderful on the
ground and, after all those hours, still looks brand new.
I do have a Landol harmonic balancer with it. Wood doesn't have enough
inertia to keep things slowly winding down after shutdown. It always
gives me chest pain to see an engine "slam" to a stop with just the wood
prop on board. The balancer gives the engine more weight to swing into
and also puts your CG ahead. Nice combination.
Smoooooth.................
Rain: yes, it will beat up any prop, including metal. I throttle back to
2100 and have had no erosion problems.
I check prop bolt torque every oil change and after several months if
the oil isn't ready yet. I have found them rarely at the lower end of
the torque, never lose. Usually they are where they were when I checked
them last.
I keep the prop waxed with carnauba wax that keeps it slick, makes
taking bugs off a snap and keeps the water out and looking new.
Warnke props are the best looking in the business but he is not making
props in this plane of existence any more. Sterba is also a good bet.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com |
So who is the resident expert on turbocharging lycomings in an Rv ? I need
to ask some simple questions..
Danny..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nels Hanson <pa201950(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba Prop |
777 hrs. on a 68 X 74 Sterba prop in front of 160
horses. All I do is use Carnuba wax,check the torque
every 3 months,and keep on flying. I have the dampener
installed and it is a smooth combination.
Also,Ed Sterba is about the easiest person in the
airplane world to work with and get along with. He
seems known as one who always goes the "extra mile". I
had a prop chewed up a little by the cowl pins.(my
fault) Sent it back to Ed,he worked on it,returned it
to me better than new in only a few days. Total
cost-$00.00
--- Ivan McLaws wrote:
>
>
> I'm about to test fly an RV-6A that were completing.
> Have an IO-360 which was put together by B.A.P. and
> an Ed Sterba wood prop. I don't have the cash for a
> constant speed prop yet but have never flown behind
> wood.
>
> Question I have is to anyone that may have a wood
> prop or who has had one. How are they? Anyone ever
> flown behind a prop by Sterba?
>
> I live in Arizona so most of the year am not in the
> rain and the RV is hangared.
>
> I'd appreciate any comments.
>
> Ivan McLaws
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape... |
Hello Bill,
I got some at Lowes or Home Depot. It's about 2" wide and was located in
the area where they sell carpet. Works great.
Bill Gill
RV-7 Fuse & Finish
Kansas City, MO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darwin N.
Barrie
RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape...
Bill,
If you have a good specialty auto paint and trim place in your area they
will have the stuff for auto trim. I have some and it is great but
you've
only got one shot to get it right!!! If you don't have such a place let
me
know and I'll pick it up for you.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
; "vansairforce"
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape...
>
>
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just
looks
> like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick
GOOD!!!
> ...not the foam crap!
>
> Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - Colorado
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
> Help save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's Research
Hospital's
> 'Thanks & Giving.'
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/6iY7fA/5WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
>like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
>...not the foam crap!
>
>Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A - Colorado
>www.rv8a.com
>
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=3m+structural+adhesive+tape&btnG=Google+Search
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbo Normalize |
> So who is the resident expert on turbocharging lycomings in an Rv ? I
need to ask some simple questions..
If you're interested in turbocharging, or tubonormalizing, you really should
read the lastest version of the RVator. Good article by Ken Krueger.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
Received-SPF: none
Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Speed 3 Guy" <speed3guy(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Double Sided Tape... |
Do a search for "3M VHB" (Very High Bond). It's available in lots of
thicknesses from 2 mils on up. I work for in an adhesives group at on of
the national labs and we use this stuff all of the time. I did a quick web
search, here's one vendor.
http://www.uline.com/Group_240.asp?pricode=wi849&wcw=google
Good luck,
Guy
>
>I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
>like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
>...not the foam crap!
>
>Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Cordner" <davcor(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
Check out this 6 mod from from Doug Reeve's site:
http://www.vansairforce.net/BuilderMods/NormanHunger/luggagecompartment_skirack.htm
I'm considering one of these:
http://www.travalite.com/
just an idea,
8's fuse is smaller, maybe a belly tank?
Dave Cordner
RV7A-2nd wing, fuse ordered
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net>
Subject: RV-List: Golf Clubs in RV-8
>
> Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
>
> Jim Cimino
> RV-8 SN 80039
> 150+ Hours
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Double Sided Tape... |
Hal, do you happen to have the part number off the package. Thinking 4611
might be the right one.
Description from 3M. Strangely enough, I think I sell this stuff and never
thought about it.
3M VHB Tapes utilize high performance adhesives which have excellent
longterm holding power. VHB tapes have been used for many applications in
the construction industry, including the manufacture of architectural panels
for curtain walls and exterior building cladding.
VHB tapes are ideal for use in many interior and exterior industrial
applications. In many situations they can replace rivets, spot welds, liquid
adhesives, and other permanent fasteners. VHB tapes are also ideal for
bonding a variety of substrates, including most metals, sealed wood, glass,
many plastics, composites and painted surfaces.
See this link>
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?7777771amfi7oYv7HYv777OkuFR
uuuuT-
Linn, if 4611 is the right thing, I will check and see what our cost is on
it. Got to be able to beat $90.
Bill Schlatterer
7a qb/fuse
Arkansas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hal Kempthorne
Subject: Re: RV-List: Double Sided Tape...
Dan Parker demonstrated Scotch VHB tape to the Santa Clara CA chapter 6 or 7
years ago. He made up some 'coupons' of aluminum about .020 thick. He made
a few using the tape to hold two skins together and a few using rivets.
Pulling on them, the riveted ones came apart first with the rivets tearing
out.
I bought a roll I think about 50 feet for about $90. I've used it in a few
places on my RV6a with no problems in 170 hours. I was going to use it to
stick rudder skins to stiffeners but Van pointed out that flutter testing
may need to be redone so I didn't use it there. Had I been on to it earlier
I would have done seats, floors etc
When tape or glue is needed I tend to think that 3M Scotch is best.
hal
RV6a "Valentine" N7HK
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 1/12/05 10:24:50 AM Central Standard Time,
bill(at)vondane.com writes:
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | AN Hose fittings/plenums |
non-swaged AN hose fittings were designed by AN spec to be reused.
AC 43.13-1B has some info in this regard as does AC 65-9A and or -15A.
That said, if they have seen a fire don't reuse them. Never install them
without a mandrel. Visually ensure that no flap has been cut inside, and
pressure test them as appropriate.
item two
Somewhere I remember someone saying that pressure flow in/around complex
shapes works better if there is a pressure reservior of sufficient size
around the complex shape??? For this reason I made my plenum as large as
possible. The main reason I made a plenum was that there is a history of
the lower hinges getting torn out, so it seemed like the extra force pushing
up on the cowl could be reduced with a plenum.
One thought I have had is to play with was the lower baffle outlet sizes.
Not yet clear in my head on how to easily play with this, but it would be
interesting to see if one could balance CHTs from this.
RE comment on engine ops without a plenum,,, Don't do it for long or at high
power. We run engines on test stands all the time, and they will get nicely
ruin't if the student's forget the plenum install prior to a run. The
cylinders seem to do alright, but there are places on the cyl heads that
really get toasty...
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
Foretunately static pressure in a diverging duct will increase, and in a
converging duct will decrease. Otherwise our friendly high volume turbine
relatives would not work so very well.
On the other hand, I do believe that anytime you change the shape, size, or
turn the flow in a duct you will lose a small amount of dynamic pressure,
which is converted into heat via turbulence and friction.
But then static pressure and dynamic pressure are not the same thing, yet
are often either confused or mis-stated thereby leading to confusion.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)matronics.com
<<<<<<< A lead-acid battery won't generate gas until the last portion
of
the charge. It must reach "gassing voltage" which is a bit over 13 volts.
Thus, the highest risk for explosion is a battery that is just become fully
charged.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Although I have read this to be true, and experienced it everytime I have
ever charged a battery, interestingly enough the three times I've seen a
normal lead acid battery explode they were mostly dead, and had been fast
charging at about 100 amps for less then 15 minutes. That said, in two of
the cases, I was looking in the general direction of the explosion and did
not see any flash, nor was there any evidence of heat damage, so I have
always assumed they were pressure explosions not combustion explosions.
I have also never seen an AGM blow, but mine does tend to get very warm if
charged higher then 14.2V. They say they can't do boom. I don't care what
they say. When I have seen batteries blow, I was more than 20 feet away, in
one case I had a wall between myself and the battery, and I couldn't hear
for a while due to the strength of the concussion. And in the one that was
installed in a car the hood was torn partly off even though it was open at
the time of failure. There is no way this is worth testing inside my
airplane.
(On an interesting side note, after that failure, I went outside to inspect
the damage, and while viewing the wreckage the not-so-light top of the
battery came wafting back to earth at a significant Gallelain velocity. Next
time this happens I'm thinking of sending Mike Neville off to fetch the top
before it hurts anybody.)
RE trickle/float chargers, I used to believe in these until I had an
experience similar to Dan's where I returned to find a smoking hole in the
battery bench. The charger had gone nuts, fused its circuit protection into
a lovely conductive circuit, along with its regulator and then proceeded to
gag that poor battery with electrons until it did Richard Pryor imitations.
I no longer leave batteries charging unattended.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures or files
area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear fuselage.
if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most likely can't view
them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was the case.
what the heck, found the link for you.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs&.src=gr&.dnm=clubs2.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
>
> Jim Cimino
> RV-8 SN 80039
> 150+ Hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures or files
area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear fuselage. if
you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most likely can't view
them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was the case.
what the heck, found the link for you.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs.src=gr.dnm=clubs2.jpg.view=t.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino"
Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
ww.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator error
using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives, didn't find
specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering if
the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
Dale Ensing
RV6A N118DE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Long overdue site update |
For those of you still interested in my RV-6A web site (and let me humbly
say that it's nowhere near the quality of Dan Checkoway's), I have finally
gotten around to updating it. There are several new chapters mostly
covering the bottom fuselage skins and some of the interior. Enjoy. Oh,
it's at http://www.flion.com/rv6a/Default.htm.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - fabricating seats
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | Battery Chargers |
I noticed this thread the other day, but have not studied all postings. I
have seen postings stating voltage limitations, etc, but havent seen
anything that recommended a specific charger. Living in the NW where we do
experience long periods of weather unsuitable for VFR flight, I would like
to find a charger that would trickle for long periods. Anything come to
mind?
Additionally, are any RVers using remote batter connectors.....to keep from
having to dig to the battery to charge it?
Thanks for any help.
Tony Marshall
RV6 N91CM
Polson, MT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: smoking hole |
Wheeler North wrote:
>Although I have read this to be true, and experienced it everytime I have
>ever charged a battery, interestingly enough the three times I've seen a
>normal lead acid battery explode they were mostly dead, and had been fast
>charging at about 100 amps for less then 15 minutes. That said, in two of
>the cases, I was looking in the general direction of the explosion and did
>not see any flash, nor was there any evidence of heat damage, so I have
>always assumed they were pressure explosions not combustion explosions.
>
>
You won't see an explosion of the battery as a flash because it is
caused by the hydrogen and oxygen which combine colorlessly. Your
explosion was probably caused by the mixture, probably under some
pressure, igniting.
I had this occur on my BMW motorcycle once (flooded battery). It was on
a charger for a while then sitting a bit. When I rolled it out of the
garage and tried to start it, the battery exploded. Fortunately, the
battery is not very large and is pretty much shrouded so I still have my
manhood, although there was acid all over the place. I was a little
surprised :-) .
Dick Tasker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
Sometimes this internet thing is a life saver and then it can be a real
pain!
I just wanted to know is there a way to prevent your Yahoo account from
bouncing? It works great for a couple weeks or months then I get a post that
I have been "Reactivated".
Why did I start getting bounced if I had not changed my settings and check
into the groups frequently? Puzzling?
I guess the end result is that I get reactivated to continue to view
messages and discuss issues that come up in the construction.
Thanks for listening(reading),
Bruce G.
RV8 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we have
the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with Van's
rivets.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>
>
>I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator error
>using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>didn't find
>specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering if
>the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>Dale Ensing
>RV6A N118DE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
> To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 08:34 (CDT)
> Subject: RV-List: Bouncing
>
>
> Sometimes this internet thing is a life saver and then it can be a real
> pain!
> I just wanted to know is there a way to prevent your Yahoo account from
> bouncing? It works great for a couple weeks or months then I get a post that
> I have been "Reactivated".
> Why did I start getting bounced if I had not changed my settings and check
> into the groups frequently? Puzzling?
> I guess the end result is that I get reactivated to continue to view
> messages and discuss issues that come up in the construction.
> Thanks for listening(reading),
> Bruce G.
> RV8 Wings
>
Does your internet provider have any type of spam blocker? If it does it might
block a message from the yahoo group by accident and cause the yahoo group to
start bouncing. Mine has a blocker and it also has a area that you can goto to
list addresses that you do not ever want it to block. I use to get bounces alot.
I don't get bounced any more and I think it might be because I did this.
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
Chuck,
I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem before paint or
riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off the face. This
allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after priming and painting
them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did not protrude very far anymore.
I removed another .030" and now they are fine. Anyone else who bought these,
consider removing .060" off the face of the port to allow it to protrude farther
from the tailcone side skin.
Charlie Kuss
---- Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
> We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
> painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we have
> the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with Van's
> rivets.
>
> Chuck Rowbotham
> RV-8A
>
> >From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
> >
> >
> >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator error
> >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
> >didn't find
> >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering if
> >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
> >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
> >Dale Ensing
> >RV6A N118DE
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
Why do they need to protrude . . . mine are flush . . . not flying yet?!
But, the turtle back is on and there plumbed so will probably stay the way
they are??
Thanks,
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
> Chuck,
> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem before
paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off the
face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did not
protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are fine.
Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of the
port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> ---- Charles Rowbotham wrote:
> >
> > We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
> > painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we
have
> > the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with Van's
> > rivets.
> >
> > Chuck Rowbotham
> > RV-8A
> >
> > >From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> > >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
> > >
> > >
> > >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator
error
> > >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
> > >didn't find
> > >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering
if
> > >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
> > >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
> > >Dale Ensing
> > >RV6A N118DE
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
I agree: I don't understand this thread.
I thought all static ports were supposed to be as flush as possible to get
the best signal...
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
> Why do they need to protrude . . . mine are flush . . . not flying yet?!
> But, the turtle back is on and there plumbed so will probably stay the way
> they are??
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
>>
>> Chuck,
>> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem before
> paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off the
> face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
> priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did not
> protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are fine.
> Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of the
> port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>> ---- Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
>> >
>> > We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
>> > painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we
> have
>> > the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with
>> > Van's
>> > rivets.
>> >
>> > Chuck Rowbotham
>> > RV-8A
>> >
>> > >From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
>> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>> > >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator
> error
>> > >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>> > >didn't find
>> > >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and
>> > >wondering
> if
>> > >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>> > >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>> > >Dale Ensing
>> > >RV6A N118DE
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Another option. Expensive, but ready-made:
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2002/02/static_ports.html
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
chaztuna(at)adelphia.net said:
>
> Chuck,
> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem before
> paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off the
> face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
> priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did not
> protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are fine.
> Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of the
> port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> ---- Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>>
>>
>> We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
>> painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we
>> have
>> the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with Van's
>> rivets.
>>
>> Chuck Rowbotham
>> RV-8A
>>
>> >From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
>> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>> >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>> >
>> >
>> >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator
>> error
>> >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>> >didn't find
>> >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering
>> if
>> >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>> >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>> >Dale Ensing
>> >RV6A N118DE
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
I have heard that there are errors associated with flush ports, perhaps
it tends to create a little vacuum in the port. I've heard that people
have built up little dams in front of ports to alleviate this, perhaps
by creating a little local turbulence. All of this is hearsay and worth
everything you paid for it.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
I agree: I don't understand this thread.
I thought all static ports were supposed to be as flush as possible to
get
the best signal...
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
> Why do they need to protrude . . . mine are flush . . . not flying
yet?!
> But, the turtle back is on and there plumbed so will probably stay the
way
> they are??
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
>>
>> Chuck,
>> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem
before
> paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off
the
> face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
> priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did
not
> protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are
fine.
> Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of
the
> port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>> ---- Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
>> >
>> > We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they
with
>> > painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately
we
> have
>> > the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with
>> > Van's
>> > rivets.
>> >
>> > Chuck Rowbotham
>> > RV-8A
>> >
>> > >From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
>> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>> > >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed
indicator
> error
>> > >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched
archives,
>> > >didn't find
>> > >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and
>> > >wondering
> if
>> > >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>> > >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>> > >Dale Ensing
>> > >RV6A N118DE
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
I'm not a engineer . . . but this is what I thought I understood?
It's a static vent or drain . . . they are flush on many spam cans?!
The designer (Van's) should have place them (on the drawing) in an area
where the pressure is as "neutral" as possible?!
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
> I have heard that there are errors associated with flush ports, perhaps
> it tends to create a little vacuum in the port. I've heard that people
> have built up little dams in front of ports to alleviate this, perhaps
> by creating a little local turbulence. All of this is hearsay and worth
> everything you paid for it.
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Jackson
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
> I agree: I don't understand this thread.
> I thought all static ports were supposed to be as flush as possible to
> get
> the best signal...
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
> >
> >
> > Why do they need to protrude . . . mine are flush . . . not flying
> yet?!
> > But, the turtle back is on and there plumbed so will probably stay the
> way
> > they are??
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Chuck,
> >> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem
> before
> > paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off
> the
> > face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
> > priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did
> not
> > protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are
> fine.
> > Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of
> the
> > port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
> >> Charlie Kuss
> >>
> >> ---- Charles Rowbotham wrote:
> >
> >> >
> >> > We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they
> with
> >> > painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately
> we
> > have
> >> > the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with
> >> > Van's
> >> > rivets.
> >> >
> >> > Chuck Rowbotham
> >> > RV-8A
> >> >
> >> > >From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
> >> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> >> > >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed
> indicator
> > error
> >> > >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched
> archives,
> >> > >didn't find
> >> > >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and
> >> > >wondering
> > if
> >> > >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
> >> > >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
> >> > >Dale Ensing
> >> > >RV6A N118DE
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I thought is was about breaching the boundry layer. That could be B5 tho...
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Maureen & Bob Christensen said:
>
>
>
> I'm not a engineer . . . but this is what I thought I understood?
>
> It's a static vent or drain . . . they are flush on many spam cans?!
>
> The designer (Van's) should have place them (on the drawing) in an area
> where the pressure is as "neutral" as possible?!
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
>>
>> I have heard that there are errors associated with flush ports, perhaps
>> it tends to create a little vacuum in the port. I've heard that people
>> have built up little dams in front of ports to alleviate this, perhaps
>> by creating a little local turbulence. All of this is hearsay and worth
>> everything you paid for it.
>>
>> Ed Holyoke
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Jackson
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>>
>>
>> I agree: I don't understand this thread.
>> I thought all static ports were supposed to be as flush as possible to
>> get
>> the best signal...
>> Scott in Vancouver
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net>
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > Why do they need to protrude . . . mine are flush . . . not flying
>> yet?!
>> > But, the turtle back is on and there plumbed so will probably stay the
>> way
>> > they are??
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> > Bob
>> >
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
>> > To:
>> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>> >
>> >
>> >>
>> >> Chuck,
>> >> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem
>> before
>> > paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off
>> the
>> > face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
>> > priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did
>> not
>> > protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are
>> fine.
>> > Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of
>> the
>> > port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
>> >> Charlie Kuss
>> >>
>> >> ---- Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>> >
>> >> >
>> >> > We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they
>> with
>> >> > painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately
>> we
>> > have
>> >> > the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with
>> >> > Van's
>> >> > rivets.
>> >> >
>> >> > Chuck Rowbotham
>> >> > RV-8A
>> >> >
>> >> > >From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
>> >> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> >> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> >> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>> >> > >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed
>> indicator
>> > error
>> >> > >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched
>> archives,
>> >> > >didn't find
>> >> > >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and
>> >> > >wondering
>> > if
>> >> > >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>> >> > >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>> >> > >Dale Ensing
>> >> > >RV6A N118DE
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)nomadwi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
I used Van's low-tech pop rivet static ports and my a/s and altimeter
readings are dead accurate.
Doug Weiler
N722DW
RV-4, 160 hours
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
>>
>> Chuck,
>> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem before
> paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off the
> face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
> priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did not
> protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are fine.
> Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of the
> port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>> ---- Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
>> >
>> > We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
>> > painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we
> have
>> > the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with
>> > Van's
>> > rivets.
>> >
>> > Chuck Rowbotham
>> > RV-8A
>> >
>> > >From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
>> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>> > >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator
> error
>> > >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>> > >didn't find
>> > >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and
>> > >wondering
> if
>> > >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>> > >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>> > >Dale Ensing
>> > >RV6A N118DE
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dane Sheahen" <dane(at)mutualace.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
Dale
I am having the same problem with my static system. Speed reads low and
altitude is off in the air. Waukegan Avionics shop tested the system on the
ground and it checks out fine. I believe it is sucking out just a little
air. Opening the alt static port corrects some of the problem. I did find
two cracks in the tubing near the barbed fittings, so I replaced every bit
of line and tossed out those barbed fittings. Things got worse? I believed
the leak near the blind encoder compensated for the little bit of suction.
I believe this all started after painting. There is a tiny little
depression around Cleveland Static Ports caused by the paint. My plan is to
find a heated Piper pitot mast with a static port built in.
Anyone have a better idea?
Dane Sheahen
N838RV RV8a
>From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>
>
>I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator error
>using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>didn't find
>specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering if
>the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>Dale Ensing
>RV6A N118DE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
Lucky,
I can't get anywhere with this link. What is the name of the group?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky" <luckymacy(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Golf Clubs in RV-8
>
> i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures
or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear
fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most
likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was
the case.
>
> what the heck, found the link for you.
>
>
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs&.src=gr&.dnm=clubs2.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> >
> > Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
> >
> > Jim Cimino
> > RV-8 SN 80039
> > 150+ Hours
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures
or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear
fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most
likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was
the case.
>
> what the heck, found the link for you.
>
>
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs.src=gr.dnm=clubs2.jpg.view=t.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino"
>
> Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
>
> Jim Cimino
> RV-8 SN 80039
> 150+ Hours
>
>
> ww.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Ducote" <mikejd1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
Drill the port out to .030 and insert Van's pop rivet?
Mike Ducote
N63PM RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dane Sheahen" <dane(at)mutualace.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
> Dale
> I am having the same problem with my static system. Speed reads low and
> altitude is off in the air. Waukegan Avionics shop tested the system on
the
> ground and it checks out fine. I believe it is sucking out just a little
> air. Opening the alt static port corrects some of the problem. I did
find
> two cracks in the tubing near the barbed fittings, so I replaced every bit
> of line and tossed out those barbed fittings. Things got worse? I
believed
> the leak near the blind encoder compensated for the little bit of suction.
> I believe this all started after painting. There is a tiny little
> depression around Cleveland Static Ports caused by the paint. My plan is
to
> find a heated Piper pitot mast with a static port built in.
>
> Anyone have a better idea?
>
> Dane Sheahen
> N838RV RV8a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Handheld nav/com radio |
I am thinking of buying a backup hand held radio with the VOR option similar to
the SP-200A model sold by Sporty's.
My questions are 1) would the unit work with the short flexible antenna attached
to the unit or would the radio require an antenna connector to the airplanes
com antenna? 2) is Sporty the best on the market for $299 with the VOR option?
and 3) can I just plug my headset in case the radio goes blank and still have
good communications?
Some of the utralight seem to use these units. Some are louse when transmitting
(lots of background noise) while others seem to be acceptable.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
Glue a dome from a rivet or whatever onto the flush static port. If nothing
else it might help isolate the problem.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Ducote [mailto:mikejd1(at)cox.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2005 6:52 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
> Drill the port out to .030 and insert Van's pop rivet?
>
> Mike Ducote
> N63PM RV6
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dane Sheahen" <dane(at)mutualace.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
> >
> > Dale
> > I am having the same problem with my static system. Speed
> reads low and
> > altitude is off in the air. Waukegan Avionics shop tested
> the system on
> the
> > ground and it checks out fine. I believe it is sucking out
> just a little
> > air. Opening the alt static port corrects some of the
> problem. I did
> find
> > two cracks in the tubing near the barbed fittings, so I
> replaced every bit
> > of line and tossed out those barbed fittings. Things got worse? I
> believed
> > the leak near the blind encoder compensated for the little
> bit of suction.
> > I believe this all started after painting. There is a tiny little
> > depression around Cleveland Static Ports caused by the
> paint. My plan is
> to
> > find a heated Piper pitot mast with a static port built in.
> >
> > Anyone have a better idea?
> >
> > Dane Sheahen
> > N838RV RV8a
> >
> >
>
>
> ========
> ========
> ========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com> |
| Subject: | aluminum panel finish |
I seen a panel in a RV6a that was anodized in "clear". It gave the cockpit a
high tech look and the pilot said that there was no issues with glare etc.
Now here is my dilemma. Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in deburring. These need to be eliminated
before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anadizor couldn't give me
any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
Thanks - remember this list hasn't failed me yet.....
Wayne
S.Alberta RV7a panel work in -35 weather
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Battery Chargers |
This is from the recent Aeroelectric list archives. It's part of a
discussion about battery maintainers, and this is by Bob Nuckolls.
Terry
During my RAC sponsored battery study earlier this year
I asked about this technology at both Hawker and Concord.
The Hawker guy (marketing type) didn't have an opinion
and was not familiar with them. Concord guy (vp of marketing
but technically very savy guy) said they tried on an old
battery that they ran through a couple of discharge-recharge
cycles and recovered a lot of the battery's capacity . . .
but repeated the experiment on a similar battery with similar
results but without the "de-sulfator" . . . I have one that
I purchased and used it on a barely functional battery pulled
from my father-in-law's car. After a week .1C charge/ 1C discharge
cycles, I measured an increase in capacity from about 10 a.h.
(barely started the car) to about 16 a.h. Cranking current test
values rose moderately from about 150A to 220A.
I wouldn't say these critters will RECOVER a battery. I just
haven't had time to set up the experiment to compare the life
of two new batteries run on the same cycles but with de-sulfator
installed on one battery. It's on the list of things to do.
In the mean time, every battery manufacturer I talked to was
unanimous in their endorsement of battery maintainers . . .
ESPECIALLLY for flooded batteries. I use the Battery Minders
here in the shop. I picked up the Harbor Freight product to
check it out. I'm running a battery down now and will put a
data acquisition system on it to see how it compares with
the Battery Minder.
Anyone wanting to diddle with the desulfators can do a
Google search and get a TON of data on products to purchase
and projects to build.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D. Jones" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler attached to engine mount |
List,
Recently there was a discussion here about attaching
the oil cooler to the engine mount instead of the rear
baffle. There were even a couple of links showing the
cooler installed this way. I'm preparing for my first
annual and contemplating moving the oil cooler from
the baffle as I've already had to re-work the baffle
due to crack/break from the vibration of the oil
cooler.
Question... how did you attach the cooler to the
mount? Pictures would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Doug -7A
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aluminum panel finish |
> Very carefully with a belt sander. The wider the better. You also need
> to make a 'fence' so that each pass is parallel to the first. The
> machine I saw that does 'brushed aluminum' uses a belt about 4' wide and
> 4' long (4'X8' belt!!!), very coarse grit.
> Linn
This sounds way too aggressive to me. We use these wheels, mostly on
stainless to create a uniform brushed surface:
http://checkoway.com/url/?s=7add016d
This may be hard to do now that you have your holes cut out. I think I
might experiment with using a relatively fine abrasive, 180 grit maybe on a
flatboard sander to take long passes down the length of the panel and see
how you like that look. Any large woodworking shop will have a drum surface
sander which probably could put a uniform finish on your panel in about a
minute...
http://checkoway.com/url/?s=ad01dc6b
Good luck!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler flanges cracking revisited |
I know this is yesterday's news, but I finally got around to looking at
and modifying my oil cooler mounts. I have the same setup as Dan did
and he experienced some pretty bad cracking. I was going to put washers
under the spacers, but at the urging of the local greybeard A&P I put
some Al angle in there as well. Cheap hardware store angle is better
for this than aircraft grade, because it does not have the radius fillet
on the inner corner, making it easier to drill the holes close to the edge.
Pics at http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/plenum.htm about 2/3
down the page.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
"RV9 Group"
After a lot of soul searching I am getting out of aviation and sticking with cars,
boats, and motorcycles. Selling my cherokee and the kit is next. I know, I
know. But, I gotta do what I gotta do. My Harley is calling.
RV-9A: QB fuselage, 95% complete wings, 70% complete empennage, fully primed,
dual lights, brakes and steps, AOA installed in wing. Cost around $22,000 to buy
equivalent new now, cost around $16,500 for all the parts to me. Will look
for around $15,000.
Curt Hoffman
Cincinnati area
contact at choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aluminum panel finish |
Wayne
2-3 minutes soaking in a vat of AlumiPrep (or similar) diluted 5 to 1
with water will give you a nice satin finish.
Charlie Kuss
>
>I seen a panel in a RV6a that was anodized in "clear". It gave the cockpit a
>high tech look and the pilot said that there was no issues with glare etc.
>
>Now here is my dilemma. Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
>panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
>it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in deburring. These need to be eliminated
>before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
>finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anadizor couldn't give me
>any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
>Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
>
>Thanks - remember this list hasn't failed me yet.....
>
>Wayne
>S.Alberta RV7a panel work in -35 weather
>
>
>--
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
In a message dated 1/13/05 9:32:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
> . Replaced with the pop rivet method
> and worked fine.
Paul,
How did you go about changing the Cleveland ports to the pop rivets?
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
do you have any pics to email of the kit and work done.
thanks,
Wayne Petrus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
I didn't replace them. The gentleman who bought my airplane did it, and
subsequently told me that it fixed the problem. I'm not sure how he did it,
actually. I am in agreement with the poster that said the installation is
hokey. I mean come on, a Pop Rivet? It was a no brainer to put the
cleveland ports there, but it sounds as if there are some common issues with
that.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DWENSING(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
In a message dated 1/13/05 9:32:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
> . Replaced with the pop rivet method
> and worked fine.
Paul,
How did you go about changing the Cleveland ports to the pop rivets?
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
On Jan 13, 2005, at 9:16 PM, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
>
> I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell.
Yeah, but it works :-)
> " I certainly would
> like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
Because it's been tried and it works. The location apparently doesn't
provide a perfect "static" source, but the local flow effects of the
pop rivet dome offset this. If Kevin Horton is reading this thread he
could explain it better
> I have
> just recently installed a pair of flushies on my tailcone and they look
> cool.......but if they don't work as well I will certainly reconsider.
You can add kludges to make them work (a dam behind the port will raise
pressure/lower IAS, and one ahead of the port will have the opposite
effect). I have seen this done on factory aircraft, but it's just
easier to copy what's worked in the past rather than reinvent.
> . Frankly the biggest issue I
> had with the rivet is the method of attachment to the tubing....gobs of
> sealant just doesn't feel right
Me too. I can tell you what I did, although I'm sure there are better
methods. I couldn't get the sealant to work right for me, so I got
some small (.125 OD IIRC) brass tubing from the hobby shop and flared
the ends of two pieces about an inch long. I glued these over the
"shop head" of the pop rive with JB-weld. This gave me a nice place to
put the tubing, looked OK, and required no great skill.
> Liking this debate!
Me too
James Freeman
getting closer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
Lots of talk about Cleveland but it's not clear if is this related
specifically to the Cleveland design/brand. I just bought a set from ACS
because I also didn't like the looks of the pop rivet but now you have me
wondering if this problem pertains to the Cleveland design or all "flush"
designs. Is this also a problem with the ACS ports?
BTW,... by "flush" do you mean that nothing of the port extends past the
skin or just that the port orifice is flush with area immediately
surrounding it. My ports look about like a quarter resting on the skin with
a hole in the middle.
Thanks Bill S
7a QB/fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Freeman
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
On Jan 13, 2005, at 9:16 PM, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
>
> I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell.
Yeah, but it works :-)
> " I certainly would
> like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
Because it's been tried and it works. The location apparently doesn't
provide a perfect "static" source, but the local flow effects of the
pop rivet dome offset this. If Kevin Horton is reading this thread he
could explain it better
> I have
> just recently installed a pair of flushies on my tailcone and they look
> cool.......but if they don't work as well I will certainly reconsider.
You can add kludges to make them work (a dam behind the port will raise
pressure/lower IAS, and one ahead of the port will have the opposite
effect). I have seen this done on factory aircraft, but it's just
easier to copy what's worked in the past rather than reinvent.
> . Frankly the biggest issue I
> had with the rivet is the method of attachment to the tubing....gobs of
> sealant just doesn't feel right
Me too. I can tell you what I did, although I'm sure there are better
methods. I couldn't get the sealant to work right for me, so I got
some small (.125 OD IIRC) brass tubing from the hobby shop and flared
the ends of two pieces about an inch long. I glued these over the
"shop head" of the pop rive with JB-weld. This gave me a nice place to
put the tubing, looked OK, and required no great skill.
> Liking this debate!
Me too
James Freeman
getting closer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aluminum panel finish |
In a message dated 1/13/2005 4:24:22 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
wayne(at)pedersentransport.com writes:
Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in deburring. These need to be eliminated
before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anodizer couldn't give me
any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
===============================
Find a machine shop that does "graining" for a brushed or sanded appearance
or have it "glass bead blasted" for a matte finish.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
In a message dated 1/13/2005 8:29:20 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net writes:
Lots of talk about Cleveland but it's not clear if is this related
specifically to the Cleveland design/brand. I just bought a set from ACS
because I also didn't like the looks of the pop rivet but now you have me
wondering if this problem pertains to the Cleveland design or all "flush"
designs. Is this also a problem with the ACS ports?
===========================
Cleveland doesn't make these ports, Cleaveland Tool does. My ACS ones work
great and they are flush.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld nav/com radio |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on localhost
I can't speak for the Sporty's model but I have a 10 year old Icom A22.
This has been replace with a model that is cheaper and has more features.
1) The "rubber ducky" antenna seems to do a fine job both directions.
This radio has a standard BNC antenna connector which is the same as
your aircraft radio . Hooking in to the aircraft antenna would certainly
increase the range.
2) $299 is a pretty good deal for a hand held and I doubt if you can
find anything cheaper. The Icom A24 is $425.
3) The SP200 user's manual lists a headset adapter on page 29. You plug
in the adapter and the radio speaker and microphone are disabled. Not
sure if this is included but I couldn't find it on the list of
accessories for sale. Here is the link to the user's manual.
http://www.sportys.com/pdf/sp200.pdf
I like using my radio when driving. I'll tune in ATIS or AWOS.
Mark
LML Klingmuller wrote:
>
>I am thinking of buying a backup hand held radio with the VOR option similar
to the SP-200A model sold by Sporty's.
>My questions are 1) would the unit work with the short flexible antenna attached
to the unit or would the radio require an antenna connector to the airplanes
com antenna? 2) is Sporty the best on the market for $299 with the VOR option?
and 3) can I just plug my headset in case the radio goes blank and still have
good communications?
>Some of the utralight seem to use these units. Some are louse when transmitting
(lots of background noise) while others seem to be acceptable.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
This is going back many years ago I think, but Kevin Horton was part of
a team that did some static port testing on an airline type of plane.
Kevin posted quite a bit of information on the RV-List but also had a
very good link on his website that I bookmarked talking about static
ports. Unfortunately, Kevin has totally revamped his website (very very
nice I might add) and my link doesn't work anymore. Maybe someone who's
interested can find the article(s).
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>>>
>>>
>>>We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
>>>painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we
>>>have
>>>the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with Van's
>>>rivets.
>>>
>>>Chuck Rowbotham
>>>RV-8A
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>From: DWENSING(at)aol.com
>>>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>>>>Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator
>>>>
>>>>
>>>error
>>>
>>>
>>>>using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>>>>didn't find
>>>>specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering
>>>>
>>>>
>>>if
>>>
>>>
>>>>the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>>>>Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>>>>Dale Ensing
>>>>RV6A N118DE
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
--
Mike Nellis
Austin, TX
CMRA #32 Honda RC51
'97 YZF1000
'47 Stinson 108-2; RV6 (Fuselage)
http://bmnellis.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: battery charging |
In a message dated 1/12/2005 9:29:52 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
davemader(at)bresnan.net writes:
So I take it you would not recommend keeping a "float" type charger on
>whenever the plane is in the hangar?
==================================
I have used the three BRW EZ Charger battery tenders I've had for over 20
yrs on various planes, cars and motorcycles unattended and they work well.
They have reverse polarity protection, put out 13.3VDC and are two stage 600mA
max and step down to 35mA unattended. I think they are still in business and
the last numbers I have for them are
312-369-5675 (and Tollfree 800-426-6008).
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Blair Amundsen" <amunbr(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | aluminum panel finish |
Hello Wayne
I have used Draino dissolved about 1 - 2 tablespoons in a glass pan to etch
1 foot square radio panels. Wear goggles and do it outside. It smokes and
stinks a lot but makes a nice satin finish.
Blair Amundsen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Pedersen
Subject: RV-List: aluminum panel finish
I seen a panel in a RV6a that was anodized in "clear". It gave the cockpit a
high tech look and the pilot said that there was no issues with glare etc.
Now here is my dilemma. Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in deburring. These need to be eliminated
before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anadizor couldn't give me
any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
Thanks - remember this list hasn't failed me yet.....
Wayne
S.Alberta RV7a panel work in -35 weather
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
| From: | "Dennis Parker" <dennis(at)k2workflow.com> |
This is something that I specifically noticed and then started taking a
look at on production air planes. I have yet to see a "Flush" static
port. I have looked at a C182, C210, C335, PC6 Pilatus Porter, Baron
BE55 and last but not least my own RV7. All of them have the static port
protrude into the air stream. Not one of them are flush. As my RV7 is
yet to fly I cannot comment on the actual result, but I am betting that
the flush mount of the static port has a lot to do with the problems
that are being reported.
I have also heard (as someone else commented) that the port needs to
protrude its head above the boundary layer. Also not sure whether that
is urban legend or the truth. As I hope to fly in the next two weeks I
will post my results once I see how it works out.
Dennis
RV7
71041
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
Lots of talk about Cleveland but it's not clear if is this related
specifically to the Cleveland design/brand. I just bought a set from
ACS
because I also didn't like the looks of the pop rivet but now you have
me
wondering if this problem pertains to the Cleveland design or all
"flush"
designs. Is this also a problem with the ACS ports?
BTW,... by "flush" do you mean that nothing of the port extends past the
skin or just that the port orifice is flush with area immediately
surrounding it. My ports look about like a quarter resting on the skin
with
a hole in the middle.
Thanks Bill S
7a QB/fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Freeman
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
On Jan 13, 2005, at 9:16 PM, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
>
> I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell.
Yeah, but it works :-)
> " I certainly would
> like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
Because it's been tried and it works. The location apparently doesn't
provide a perfect "static" source, but the local flow effects of the
pop rivet dome offset this. If Kevin Horton is reading this thread he
could explain it better
> I have
> just recently installed a pair of flushies on my tailcone and they
look
> cool.......but if they don't work as well I will certainly reconsider.
You can add kludges to make them work (a dam behind the port will raise
pressure/lower IAS, and one ahead of the port will have the opposite
effect). I have seen this done on factory aircraft, but it's just
easier to copy what's worked in the past rather than reinvent.
> . Frankly the biggest issue I
> had with the rivet is the method of attachment to the tubing....gobs
of
> sealant just doesn't feel right
Me too. I can tell you what I did, although I'm sure there are better
methods. I couldn't get the sealant to work right for me, so I got
some small (.125 OD IIRC) brass tubing from the hobby shop and flared
the ends of two pieces about an inch long. I glued these over the
"shop head" of the pop rive with JB-weld. This gave me a nice place to
put the tubing, looked OK, and required no great skill.
> Liking this debate!
Me too
James Freeman
getting closer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kent" <jakent(at)unison.ie> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports Cleveland/Van's/others.... |
There is a much nicer way!!!
Technically better - uses AN type connections if desired.
Much prettier - and "aircraft quality" (what-ever that is ! ) to boot.
Step 1 : find a dead Grumman (AA1, AA5, similar)
Step 2 : extract static system (usually left in the carcass) and clean up
Step 3 : install in RV -- End of procedure..
John Kent RV-4 EI-DIY Ireland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
True. I preflight a C-172 everyday, and the static port is a raised circle
about the size of a quarter with a hole in it. The circle is raised about
1/8" if I were to guess without looking at it. Someone could make a
non-recessed machined port, ala cleveland that still would be a much better
installation than a pop rivet.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis Parker
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
This is something that I specifically noticed and then started taking a
look at on production air planes. I have yet to see a "Flush" static
port. I have looked at a C182, C210, C335, PC6 Pilatus Porter, Baron
BE55 and last but not least my own RV7. All of them have the static port
protrude into the air stream. Not one of them are flush. As my RV7 is
yet to fly I cannot comment on the actual result, but I am betting that
the flush mount of the static port has a lot to do with the problems
that are being reported.
I have also heard (as someone else commented) that the port needs to
protrude its head above the boundary layer. Also not sure whether that
is urban legend or the truth. As I hope to fly in the next two weeks I
will post my results once I see how it works out.
Dennis
RV7
71041
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
Lots of talk about Cleveland but it's not clear if is this related
specifically to the Cleveland design/brand. I just bought a set from
ACS
because I also didn't like the looks of the pop rivet but now you have
me
wondering if this problem pertains to the Cleveland design or all
"flush"
designs. Is this also a problem with the ACS ports?
BTW,... by "flush" do you mean that nothing of the port extends past the
skin or just that the port orifice is flush with area immediately
surrounding it. My ports look about like a quarter resting on the skin
with
a hole in the middle.
Thanks Bill S
7a QB/fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Freeman
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
On Jan 13, 2005, at 9:16 PM, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
>
> I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell.
Yeah, but it works :-)
> " I certainly would
> like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
Because it's been tried and it works. The location apparently doesn't
provide a perfect "static" source, but the local flow effects of the
pop rivet dome offset this. If Kevin Horton is reading this thread he
could explain it better
> I have
> just recently installed a pair of flushies on my tailcone and they
look
> cool.......but if they don't work as well I will certainly reconsider.
You can add kludges to make them work (a dam behind the port will raise
pressure/lower IAS, and one ahead of the port will have the opposite
effect). I have seen this done on factory aircraft, but it's just
easier to copy what's worked in the past rather than reinvent.
> . Frankly the biggest issue I
> had with the rivet is the method of attachment to the tubing....gobs
of
> sealant just doesn't feel right
Me too. I can tell you what I did, although I'm sure there are better
methods. I couldn't get the sealant to work right for me, so I got
some small (.125 OD IIRC) brass tubing from the hobby shop and flared
the ends of two pieces about an inch long. I glued these over the
"shop head" of the pop rive with JB-weld. This gave me a nice place to
put the tubing, looked OK, and required no great skill.
> Liking this debate!
Me too
James Freeman
getting closer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
On Jan 14, 2005, at 12:32 AM, Dennis Parker wrote:
>
> This is something that I specifically noticed and then started taking a
> look at on production air planes. I have yet to see a "Flush" static
> port.
I know of at least one: we used to own a 1978 Cessna 337. The static
ports were flush (very small holes in the skin). Curiously, they were
located well forward on the fuselage, maybe 4 feet behind the front
propeller. I would have thought this would be a "dirty air" location,
but they worked perfectly. The pitot source consisted of two small
holes drilled in the leading edge of the left wing strut.
A previous airplane (Navion) had a disc insert in the skin of the aft
fuse, like the Cleveland, but it had a machined "nipple" around the
hole that looked a lot like a pop rivet head.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
I have the Cleveland flush ports also. Mine are literally flush. While
painting it was obvious that the port would be recessed to the paint
surface, so dispite all the placards I've seen around static ports that said
"do not paint" I painted them, and color sanded and polished them with rest
of the plane. Then I ran a drill bit thru the center hole to clean it out. I
figured I had nothing to loose because I'd have to put a rivet in it anyway
after flight testing. So far no rivet and no problem. I read about the same
AS, and Alt as 3 other planes I've flown alongside of, and I've held it just
over the runway to 90kts and my altimeter reading didn't change. I'm not
suggesting anyone else do this, but it worked for me.
Chris Brooks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
I found a 200hp IO 360 A1A advertised for sale. The ad reads.
200hp IO 360 A1A. First Run. NDH, Cleaned, Painted, New Starter, Rings,
scamshaft, Bearings, Exhaust Valves, Magnetos, etc, Log book. Not Certified,
you assemble. $15000.00Canadian Dollars, $12400.00US dollars.
I havent called the seller yet, I thought I would check with you guys to
find out.
1)How hard is it to rebuild one of these? About the same as a regular car
engine I would imagine???
2)Where would I find a good, detailed, laymens manual on rebuilding these
engines?
3)What do you think of the price? Im a strong believer that if you arent
getting something with a warranty you should get it very cheap to make up
for the most sever of possibilities ie cracked case, cracked crank ect.
4)What questions should I ask when I call?
I know most of us buy our engines already rebuilt buy reputable companies
but I do believe the experimental category allows us to rebuild engines and
use them as uncertified in experimental planes.
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
From: "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 08:47:50 -0600
I have the Cleveland flush ports also. Mine are literally flush. While
painting it was obvious that the port would be recessed to the paint
surface, so dispite all the placards I've seen around static ports that said
"do not paint" I painted them, and color sanded and polished them with rest
of the plane. Then I ran a drill bit thru the center hole to clean it out. I
figured I had nothing to loose because I'd have to put a rivet in it anyway
after flight testing. So far no rivet and no problem. I read about the same
AS, and Alt as 3 other planes I've flown alongside of, and I've held it just
over the runway to 90kts and my altimeter reading didn't change. I'm not
suggesting anyone else do this, but it worked for me.
Chris Brooks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John DeCuir <jadecuir(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Belly com antenna |
I've got a question for the avionics gurus out there.
Background: RV4, Flybuddy LORAN with belly antenna, Terra Tx720 with
antenna midway between aft canopy and vert. stab..
The problem: Installed GX50 GPS unit, with antenna under canopy just
aft of rear seat. coax run opposite side of fuse as com coax.
Distance between antennas = 32". I get interference on ALL the freqs
listed in installation manual; total signal loss on GPS when
transmitting. Various other freqs - no problem.
I've bought another antenna to match the hole left from the LORAN
antenna on the belly. A friend is building a Low-loss RF switch, so I
can use either antenna, as I expect blind spots with belly antenna,
especially on the ground. Theory is that I can use the belly antenna
when on approach, and avoid signal loss.
The belly ant. is just aft the firewall and an inch or so starboard
of centerline, between the gearlegs. Does anyone else have a com ant.
there? Does anyone have a similar GPS antenna mount with no
interference? Could the problem be the Terra? I don't want to move
either antenna and patch holes.
John DeCuir
RV-4, N204CP
460 hrs TTAE
Salinas, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
Hi All-
Well,, I didn't sleep in a holiday inn express last night, but I did get a
pretty good night's sleep...
My rationalization here is that the rivet is very cheap and effective when
applied correctly, and as such fits Van's bill perfectly. But, the shape
of the fuselage by itself as well as the shape of the rivet head each cause
variations on the local static pressure just as an airfoil does. Given
that the rivet head should cause a slight reduction in the local static
pressure, it follows that it should be located somewhere where the static
pressure tends to be higher. The farther aft you go on that flat fuselage
side, the higher the pressure, a la pressure recovery wheel pants. So, if
I were to employ flush static ports instead of the rivet heads, I'd move
them farther forward. How far forward? Wherever the designer of the
original system suggested....
gm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | aluminum panel finish |
Hi Wayne-
I don't know for sure about bare aluminum, but the grey scotchbrite pads
(fine) do a great job of putting a scratch less, matte finish on paint.
The white (extra fine) will tend to burnish a shine back into the surface.
Check with woodworking suppliers, if you're interested.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator mounting problem |
I purchased a 87-89 Suzuki Samari alternator from Autozone. Used their web
and saved a few $$. Alternator was $96 plus $50-60 for core charge. Rated
at 55 amps, Lifetime warranty. Made a bracket to mount it. Basically
duplicated the one that was on the engine with the original alternator except
distance between mounting lugs was changed to match the new alternator. Purchase
the "adjustment" bracket from Autozone for $10, chrome plated. Had to cut to
fit.
Building an RV-4 and needed the smallest I could get to clear the cowl.
Wally Hunt
Rockford, IL
Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aluminum panel finish |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I used a new green scotchbrite pad under a palm sander on some map
pockets. It makes a nice matte finish in about three seconds.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Glen Matejcek said:
>
> Hi Wayne-
>
> I don't know for sure about bare aluminum, but the grey scotchbrite pads
> (fine) do a great job of putting a scratch less, matte finish on paint.
> The white (extra fine) will tend to burnish a shine back into the surface.
> Check with woodworking suppliers, if you're interested.
>
>
> Glen Matejcek
> aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
>
>I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator error
>using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>didn't find
>specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering if
>the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>Dale Ensing
>RV6A N118DE
I'm on the road this week, working very long days, so I wasn't keeping up
to date on the RV-List.
The ideal static port would be at a location where the pressure was equal
to the free stream pressure at every flight condition. Unfortunately, the
air flow has to accelerate and decelerate as it goes around the aircraft,
and Bernoulli's Law tells us that this will cause the pressure to
change. At any given flight condition there are a number of locations on
the aircraft where the pressure is equal to the free stream static
pressure. But, if you change flight conditions, these locations end up
somewhere else. It is very, very difficult to find a good location for
static ports.
Van's static port is a domed head pop rivet. Some people are offended by
the protruding head, and replace it with something that is flatter, like
the Cleaveland or ACS static ports. But you need to realize that Van isn't
stupid, and there is a reason why he used a protruding static port - it
works. The airflow will have to accelerate a bit as it goes over that
domed head, and this will cause the pressure to fall. In other words, if
you have a more flush static port, at the same location, this port will
sense a higher pressure. ASI readings are a function of the difference
between pitot and static pressures, so the flatter static port will lead to
lower ASI readings.
I've seem info from several builders who have modified the flush static
ports to make them more like Van's design, and they reported that the
accuracy of their ASI and altimeter improved. I have also seen messages
from two builders who are sure that their ASI is accurate with the flatter
static ports. And I bet most RVers have no idea how accurate their ASI and
altimeter are at all. Every RV is a bit different, due to small changes in
skin contour ahead of the static port, so every one will have a slightly
different static system error. And every ASI has a different instrument
error. If you are lucky, the error in your ASI will cancel out the error
in your static system.
If your ASI reads a bit low, that is no big deal, except you should lower
your max flap speed and VNE a bit to compensate. But, if you fly IFR you
need to understand that static system errors also affect the altimeter. I
wouldn't want to be shooting instrument approaches without knowing what
errors my altimeter had, and compensating for them.
You also have to understand that ASIs have instrument error too, so at
first glance there is no way of knowing whether your problem is ASI
instrument error, pitot-static leaks, static system error or a problem with
the way you determined the ASI accuracy.
I've got a bunch of info on my web site on how to check the ASI accuracy
using a homemade water manometer. Then, I've got info on how to do static
system accuracy flight testing, including a spreadsheet to crunch the
data. See:
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/ssec.html
The whole list of links on pitot-static systems is at:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/phplinks/index.php?PID=47
Kevin Horton
RV-8 (Finishing Kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | KX125 Ign noise followup |
I thought it might be healpful to post the outcome of my noise problem. All sugestions
tried, no help, I ended up putting on both mag filters. (tedious job)
and noise gone. charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/14/2005 12:04:23 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "D. Jones" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler attached to engine mount
--> RV-List message posted by: "D. Jones"
List,
Recently there was a discussion here about attaching
the oil cooler to the engine mount instead of the rear
baffle. There were even a couple of links showing the
cooler installed this way. I'm preparing for my first
annual and contemplating moving the oil cooler from
the baffle as I've already had to re-work the baffle
due to crack/break from the vibration of the oil
cooler.
Question... how did you attach the cooler to the
mount? Pictures would be appreciated.
Thanks,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: battery charging |
> I have used the three BRW EZ Charger battery tenders I've had for over 20
> yrs on various planes, cars and motorcycles unattended and they work
well.
> They have reverse polarity protection, put out 13.3VDC and are two stage
600mA
> max and step down to 35mA unattended. I think they are still in business
and
> the last numbers I have for them are
> 312-369-5675 (and Tollfree 800-426-6008).
And here is their website :-) :
http://batterytender.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
In a message dated 1/13/05 12:27:48 PM Pacific Standard Time, dcw(at)nomadwi.com
writes:
<< I used Van's low-tech pop rivet static ports and my a/s and altimeter
readings are dead accurate.
>>
Mine also! My simple minded thinking was that Van would have changed to
flush ports long ago if required for accuracy, but that's just me.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
In a message dated 1/13/05 3:07:02 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dane(at)mutualace.com writes:
<< Anyone have a better idea? >>
Use Van's pop rivet static ports, they work!
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
>I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell. The kits are super
tight
>in most regards but every once in a while I come across something like
the
>static ports that makes me stop and ask myself "REALLY?" I certainly
would
>like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
Well, I thought the same thing. I guess I didn't care for the pop rivet
and went with the flush port. I put it where Van recommended. It looks
better IMHO and, by the way, works just fine. My altimeter, ROC and AIS
are very accurate. I think AIS is the most telling. This is on the -4
and would be different probably on the other -s. I don't remember it
being $20 but it all blends in after a while.
How it works may have more to do with the placement than what you put
there. I have not seen a pop rivet or other protruding port on a
production or military aircraft. Unfortunately, you would have to
experiment to find another place and how do you do that? I'm not sure
what the answer is. It involves a little bit of builder luck, I suppose.
The static system is a system and involves all components working right,
including the pitot source. Hmmmmm. The debate rages.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
>200hp IO 360 A1A. First Run. NDH, Cleaned, Painted, New Starter, Rings,
>scamshaft, Bearings, Exhaust Valves, Magnetos, etc, Log book. Not
>Certified,
>you assemble. $15000.00Canadian Dollars, $12400.00US dollars.
>1)How hard is it to rebuild one of these? About the same as a regular car
>engine I would imagine???
Not a lot different, but there are little tricks that will come back and
bite you if you don't follow the right course. Find a knowledgable,
experienced A&P who's rebuilt them to learn some of these tricks and tips.
>2)Where would I find a good, detailed, laymens manual on rebuilding these
>engines?
I bought one from Wag-Aero I believe. Look for Lycoming -320/-360 overhaul
manual. You'll need the parts manual too.
>3)What do you think of the price? Im a strong believer that if you arent
>getting something with a warranty you should get it very cheap to make up
>for the most sever of possibilities ie cracked case, cracked crank ect.
Sounds like it's in pieces... might be a problem with something like the
crank or case. Sounds pretty high $$ for a disassembled engine. What's new
and what's old? But I haven't been looking lately.
>4)What questions should I ask when I call?
Why is it in parts? What's damaged? What was it on? All logs available?
Sudden stoppage/prop strikes history? Crank flange runout? Cylinder bores?
Camshaft been ground? AD's complied with? What type of mags? What type
of fuel system? All parts available?
>I know most of us buy our engines already rebuilt buy reputable companies
>but I do believe the experimental category allows us to rebuild engines and
>use them as uncertified in experimental planes.
Yep. you could strap a Briggs & Stratten go-cart engine on if you wanted
to. I rebuilt mine and used a certified propeller combination. This got me
a 25 hr phase 1 test period. My buddy bought a brand spankin new O-360 and
a new Senesich metal prop and had to fly a 40-hr Phase 1. Just the way it
goes.
Bryan Jones
Houston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
The time has come......if you want RV-8 Grove aerodynamic gear
call NOW. They are starting production next week and it may be next year for
the next run. 13 sets are being made and I am # 4. There is only a couple
extra sets.
(The price has gone up $110)
RV-4
RV-8 QB....wings
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL.
My Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt" <choffman9(at)cinci.rr.com> |
I can take some tonight or tomorrow and send. I haven't taken any with my
digital yet. All were with film. I'll send some tomorrow.
Curt Hoffman
----- Original Message -----
From: <Dwpetrus(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-9A kit
>
> do you have any pics to email of the kit and work done.
>
> thanks,
> Wayne Petrus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
Kosta Lewis wrote:
>
>
>
>>I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell. The kits are super
>>
>>
>tight
>
>
>>in most regards but every once in a while I come across something like
>>
>>
>the
>
>
>>static ports that makes me stop and ask myself "REALLY?" I certainly
>>
>>
>would
>
>
>>like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
>>
>>
>
>Well, I thought the same thing. I guess I didn't care for the pop rivet
>and went with the flush port. I put it where Van recommended. It looks
>better IMHO and, by the way, works just fine. My altimeter, ROC and AIS
>are very accurate. I think AIS is the most telling. This is on the -4
>and would be different probably on the other -s. I don't remember it
>being $20 but it all blends in after a while.
>
>How it works may have more to do with the placement than what you put
>there. I have not seen a pop rivet or other protruding port on a
>production or military aircraft. Unfortunately, you would have to
>experiment to find another place and how do you do that? I'm not sure
>what the answer is. It involves a little bit of builder luck, I suppose.
>
>The static system is a system and involves all components working right,
>including the pitot source. Hmmmmm. The debate rages.
>
>
>Michael
>RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>
>
I think what most of you are missing is not what works and what does not
work but what the designer had in mind.
Yes we can use whatever we feel like using and each is entitled to do
so. Remember the RV series aircraft are
the "best bang for the buck" on the market, and this is only possible
because Van has taken the time to design an aircraft
that is reasonably fast and IMO looks very nice. YES he could use all
of the fanciest and newest expensive gadgets
and the nicest looking static port he could find but this was not his
mission. Van's mission and vision for RVs was to make
a safe, fast, fun AND AFFORDABLE airplane for the most people. IF he
had used all the best, great looking parts
money could buy I am not sure that I would have been able to afford to
built an airplane as great as an RV. I think that when a
lot of you complain about the "hokey" looking parts you are not taking
into account the affordable design mission Van had
when he designed the RV's. I know that $20 here and there is not a big
deal to a lot of you but I also
believe that there are a lot of you in the same boat as me that may not
be building or flying an RV if it were more expensive.
The pop rivet static ports works as well as any other static port and
helps keep the kit affordable. Rather than complain
that the parts are "hokey" just buy and use what you like.
Jerry(soon to be 16 years flying my hokey static port RV-6)Springer
PS Michael not picking on you just using your comments to add mine to
the thread :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: > Re: Belly comm antenna |
The antenna mounted between the gear legs should work OK. Possibly a little
shading by gear legs but you probably won't notice it.
I have a handheld "Rubber Ducky" antenna on the belly of our Rv-4, mounted
under the left step plate in front of the main spar. It works fine in all
the places I have flown. I have a second one mounted on the belly behind the
baggage compartment and it works fine too. It only takes a bulkhead BNC
connector to mount one of them and a cap to cover it if not used.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
Gotta a link?
The time has come......if you want RV-8 Grove aerodynamic gear
call NOW. They are starting production next week and it may be next year
for
the next run. 13 sets are being made and I am # 4. There is only a couple
extra sets.
(The price has gone up $110)
RV-4
RV-8 QB....wings
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL.
My Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Forum Web Address |
Last week a fellow posted link to a new forum for Kitplane builders. I
liked the forum and book marked it but alas the book mark is no more. Can
somone repost the link?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
thanks, I will be expecting them.
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emrath(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | RE: Aluminum panel finish |
I've seen a plane with a "tooled" look on the firewall. I believe this was done
with an angle air grinder and a Scotch Bright disk. The swirls were quarter circle
in size I think this was done by masking completed swirls. One could certainly
"experiment" and come up with something. Someone mentioned using Drano
as an acid etch. Got me to thinking, I've used Purple Power Cleaner from the Auto
store that might etch the surface and not be as aggressive an action and so
immersion might take longer.
Marty in Brentwood TN
From: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com>
Subject: RV-List: aluminum panel finish
I seen a panel in a RV6a that was anodized in "clear". It gave the cockpit a
high tech look and the pilot said that there was no issues with glare etc.
Now here is my dilemma. Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in deburring. These need to be eliminated
before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anadizor couldn't give me
any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
Thanks - remember this list hasn't failed me yet.....
Wayne
S.Alberta RV7a panel work in -35 weather
I've seen a plane with a "tooled" look on the firewall. I believe this was done
with an angle air grinder and a Scotch Bright disk. The swirls were quarter circle
in size I think this was done by masking completed swirls. One could certainly
"experiment" and come up with something. Someone mentioned using Drano
as an acid etch. Got me to thinking, I've used Purple Power Cleaner from the Auto
store that might etch the surface and not be as aggressive an action and so
immersion might take longer.
Marty in Brentwood TN
From: "Wayne Pedersen" wayne(at)pedersentransport.com
Subject: RV-List: aluminum panel finish
-- RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" wayne(at)pedersentransport.com
I seen a panel in a RV6a that was anodized in "clear". It gave the cockpit a
high tech look and the pilot said that there was no issues with glare etc.
Now here is my dilemma. Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in d
eburring. These need to be eliminated
before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anadizor couldn't give me
any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
Thanks - remember this list hasn't failed me yet.....
Wayne
S.Alberta RV7a panel work in -35 weather
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell.
>>>>
I for another just couldn't get a decent connection to the tube!
Take a stainless allen head screw (10-32), drill a #50 hole through it,
reshape the head to look just like a poprivet head, polish and install with a nut.
The threads hold a tube quite nicely with no additional fittings, just use
some sealant so there's no leakage past the threads (I used that miracle of all
adhesives, GOOP) Works great- less bandwidth...
Mark at The PossumWorks in TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grove RV-8 Gear |
Are the standard axles, wheels and wheel pants used with the grove landing
gear?
>
> Gotta a link?
>
>
> The time has come......if you want RV-8 Grove aerodynamic gear
> call NOW. They are starting production next week and it may be next year
> for
> the next run. 13 sets are being made and I am # 4. There is only a couple
> extra sets.
> (The price has gone up $110)
>
>
> RV-4
> RV-8 QB....wings
>
> Sal Capra
> Lakeland, FL.
> My Home Page
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
Take a look here to see if this helps with your decision:
http://www.aerosportpower.com/pricing.htm
These are good people to do business with.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Oil cooler attached to engine mount |
Doug,
I just finished mine yesterday, pix under "photos" on left side. Go to
bottom and "select all" to see them. _http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/_
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/)
You have to join the list to view them, but you can cancel afterward. HTH...
Jerry Cochran
In a message dated 1/14/2005 12:04:23 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "D. Jones" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler attached to engine mount
--> RV-List message posted by: "D. Jones"
List,
Recently there was a discussion here about attaching
the oil cooler to the engine mount instead of the rear
baffle. There were even a couple of links showing the
cooler installed this way. I'm preparing for my first
annual and contemplating moving the oil cooler from
the baffle as I've already had to re-work the baffle
due to crack/break from the vibration of the oil
cooler.
Question... how did you attach the cooler to the
mount? Pictures would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Doug -7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Spicer" <spike(at)spikesplace.org> |
| Subject: | Forum Web Address |
Hmmm, was it for RV builders? www.rivetbangers.com is for RV builders
and is a little bit less known.
-- jrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Williams
Subject: RE: RV-List: Forum Web Address
Last week a fellow posted link to a new forum for Kitplane builders. I
liked the forum and book marked it but alas the book mark is no more.
Can
somone repost the link?
Thanks
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
Please do not misunderstand me guys....I think my RV 10 kit is absolutely
wonderful! The engineering is spectacular and I have yet to have a part not
just snap right into place. The very few items I am electing to change are
all for purely cosmetic reasons and my vanity. I chose to change the static
ports because I like the hardware better and I think this airframe deserves
it. While I do understand that the pennies add up to the dollars I feel like
this was well spent and fairly insignificant in the scope of this project.
My target budget is 70 to 80 thousand by the time its finished and I will be
proud if it comes in there. The place I am really going to control myself is
the panel :)
Build on....and thanks for all of the great information.
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
> Kosta Lewis wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >>I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell. The kits are super
> >>
> >>
> >tight
> >
> >
> >>in most regards but every once in a while I come across something like
> >>
> >>
> >the
> >
> >
> >>static ports that makes me stop and ask myself "REALLY?" I certainly
> >>
> >>
> >would
> >
> >
> >>like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >Well, I thought the same thing. I guess I didn't care for the pop rivet
> >and went with the flush port. I put it where Van recommended. It looks
> >better IMHO and, by the way, works just fine. My altimeter, ROC and AIS
> >are very accurate. I think AIS is the most telling. This is on the -4
> >and would be different probably on the other -s. I don't remember it
> >being $20 but it all blends in after a while.
> >
> >How it works may have more to do with the placement than what you put
> >there. I have not seen a pop rivet or other protruding port on a
> >production or military aircraft. Unfortunately, you would have to
> >experiment to find another place and how do you do that? I'm not sure
> >what the answer is. It involves a little bit of builder luck, I suppose.
> >
> >The static system is a system and involves all components working right,
> >including the pitot source. Hmmmmm. The debate rages.
> >
> >
> >Michael
> >RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> >
> >
> I think what most of you are missing is not what works and what does not
> work but what the designer had in mind.
> Yes we can use whatever we feel like using and each is entitled to do
> so. Remember the RV series aircraft are
> the "best bang for the buck" on the market, and this is only possible
> because Van has taken the time to design an aircraft
> that is reasonably fast and IMO looks very nice. YES he could use all
> of the fanciest and newest expensive gadgets
> and the nicest looking static port he could find but this was not his
> mission. Van's mission and vision for RVs was to make
> a safe, fast, fun AND AFFORDABLE airplane for the most people. IF he
> had used all the best, great looking parts
> money could buy I am not sure that I would have been able to afford to
> built an airplane as great as an RV. I think that when a
> lot of you complain about the "hokey" looking parts you are not taking
> into account the affordable design mission Van had
> when he designed the RV's. I know that $20 here and there is not a big
> deal to a lot of you but I also
> believe that there are a lot of you in the same boat as me that may not
> be building or flying an RV if it were more expensive.
> The pop rivet static ports works as well as any other static port and
> helps keep the kit affordable. Rather than complain
> that the parts are "hokey" just buy and use what you like.
>
> Jerry(soon to be 16 years flying my hokey static port RV-6)Springer
>
> PS Michael not picking on you just using your comments to add mine to
> the thread :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Rod end bearings - Loc-tite or not |
I'm doing a final fit of my elevators to the HS and I'm wondering if I should loc-tite
the nut on the rod end bearing. I didn't use anything for the rod end
bearing to the plate nut since it's so tight anyway. Should I have?
Thanks!
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB
Sammamish, WA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rod end bearings - Loc-tite or not |
I just put anti-sabotage (finger nail polish) overlapping the nut/bolt and
check it on preflight to see if the nut is backing off. Locknuts shouldnt
come loose anyway.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rod end bearings - Loc-tite or not
>
> I'm doing a final fit of my elevators to the HS and I'm wondering if I
> should loc-tite the nut on the rod end bearing. I didn't use anything for
> the rod end bearing to the plate nut since it's so tight anyway. Should I
> have?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Karie Daniel
> RV-7A QB
> Sammamish, WA.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Forum Web Address |
>
>Last week a fellow posted link to a new forum for Kitplane builders. I
>liked the forum and book marked it but alas the book mark is no more. Can
>somone repost the link?
I've seen pointers to two newish forums lately:
1. Van's Air Force World Wide Wing Forum -
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/index.php
The VAF WWW Forum is part of the VAF WWW web site, and is hosted by Doug
Reeves, who is running a large number of RV related Yahoo e-mail
groups. It is RV only. It it getting a fair bit of traffic, and it looks
like a winner.
2. Wings Forum - http://www.wingsforum.com/
The Wings Forum is aimed at all types of homebuilt aircraft, with specific
sections for different families, and sections for things that are common to
all types. This one is in its early days, and its too early to say whether
it will reach critical mass or not. I volunteered to moderate the Flight
Test forum. The Flight Test forum is certainly glacial, as the only two
posts were made by myself. But, if you have any flight testing issues to
discuss, and prefer a web forum, I welcome your questions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
I just replaced my old belts with Hookers and found the shoulder harness attach
points into the lap belt are opposite what I think they should be. They have
a 90 degree bend in them and look like they should fit together flush. They
way they go together now they seem to interfere. Has anyone else found this?
Oh yeah, and the lap belt mounting points on the harness have a bushing that
really spreads the attach points on the plane. Im wondering if I should drill
out the plane attach points to allow the bushing to fit through.
On the same subject, for anyone considering installing a crotch strap, make sure
you install them forward enough so they wont come up through your cushion.
I thought I was forward enough but it turns out the buckle has to come forward
on top of the seat pan and under the cushion before it comes up to meet the lap
belt. This keeps the buckle under the cushion and makes it a pain in the a@#
to adjust.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Oil cooler attached to engine mount |
Where did you get that shroud for your oil cooler? I've been looking
for something like that but can't find anything.
Jerry2DT(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>Doug,
>
>I just finished mine yesterday, pix under "photos" on left side. Go to
>bottom and "select all" to see them. _http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/_
>(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/)
>You have to join the list to view them, but you can cancel afterward. HTH...
>
>Jerry Cochran
>
>In a message dated 1/14/2005 12:04:23 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
>rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
>From: "D. Jones" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler attached to engine mount
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "D. Jones"
>
>List,
>Recently there was a discussion here about attaching
>the oil cooler to the engine mount instead of the rear
>baffle. There were even a couple of links showing the
>cooler installed this way. I'm preparing for my first
>annual and contemplating moving the oil cooler from
>the baffle as I've already had to re-work the baffle
>due to crack/break from the vibration of the oil
>cooler.
>
>Question... how did you attach the cooler to the
>mount? Pictures would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Doug -7A
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
www.rivetbangers.com
Now with email!!
How you want it,
When you want it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark manda <mark2nite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
As soon as I saw the cheesy static port for the 7a I
tossed it. Not on this nice of an airplane.
The allen head screw sounds good and I did a similar
mod with a small c.s. screw,drilled and tightened it
with a nut and tube fit fine. Flush.
Take a stainless allen head screw (10-32), drill a
> #50 hole through it,
> reshape the head to look just like a poprivet head,
> polish and install with a nut.
> The threads hold a tube quite nicely with no
> additional fittings, just use
> some sealant so there's no leakage past the threads
> (I used that miracle of all
> adhesives, GOOP) Works great- less bandwidth...
>
> Mark at The PossumWorks in TN
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: static ports |
>
>Curious question (I haven't got there yet) ..... is there only one
>static port or one on each side???
>Linn
A single static port could work quite fine, if you always had the ball
centred (or more accurately, had zero sideslip, which is not quite the same
thing in a single-engine prop-driven aircraft). But, if you ever develop
some sideslip, the airflow pattern around the rear fuselage changes, and
that screws up the accuracy of the static port. If you have two ports, the
one on the other side will see approximately the opposite pressure
change. If we connect the two ports to the static system with a T fitting,
the higher pressure on one will cancel out the lower pressure on the
other. There will be some airflow from one port to the other, if the
sideslip causes one to be in a higher pressure area than the other. The
pressure at the mid-point of the line between the two ports will be the
average of the pressures at each port. This means that the T that connects
the two ports to the main static line should be in the mid-point of the
line between the two ports.
Kevin Horton
RV-8 (Finishing Kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Grove RV-8 Gear |
In a message dated 1/14/05 6:39:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Gotta a link?
>
>
>
Grove Aircraft Company - Aluminum Landing Gear
http://www.groveaircraft.com/landing_gear.html
Yes the stock wheels and axles are used.
The Aero gear do not require gear leag fearings and
are finished alum with the brake line drilled through the
center of the gear. Also saves weight
They aint cheap....they sure are pretty though.
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EMAproducts(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-Static Ports was Cleveland Static Ports |
Static Ports are exactly like Real Estate ~~
Location, Location, Location
No matter how expensive or non-expensive, the location is the important
factor! The major companies spend many dollars getting the correct location for
the static source.
Two, one on each side at the location suggested by the designer is the best
bet. The static source must also be the same distance from fuselage skin as
the designer suggests. With only one, if you are slipping or skidding just a
very little will make a BIG difference. Try it!
We have been experimenting with a combined pitot & AOA mount and are finally
ready for production, but the static will remain where the designer wanted it!
One of my customers has been doing research trying to relocate the static
source for their aircraft kits, lots of work, and still not completed after
nearly a year!
Elbie Mendenhall
EM Aviation
www.riteangle.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Hi Jeff,
Are you sure you don't have the left/right shoulder harnesses on backwards?
Try swapping them over your shoulders and they should fit perfectly. I have
hookers in both my -6's and they work fine.
Oh, and don't forget to simply grind down those bushings to fit!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
Subject: RV-List: Hooker harness
I just replaced my old belts with Hookers and found the shoulder harness
attach points into the lap belt are opposite what I think they should be.
They have a 90 degree bend in them and look like they should fit together
flush. They way they go together now they seem to interfere. Has anyone
else found this? Oh yeah, and the lap belt mounting points on the harness
have a bushing that really spreads the attach points on the plane. Im
wondering if I should drill out the plane attach points to allow the bushing
to fit through.
On the same subject, for anyone considering installing a crotch strap, make
sure you install them forward enough so they wont come up through your
cushion. I thought I was forward enough but it turns out the buckle has to
come forward on top of the seat pan and under the cushion before it comes up
to meet the lap belt. This keeps the buckle under the cushion and makes it
a pain in the a@# to adjust.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Douglas <adouglas(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
Doing the actual rebuild/assembly isn't all that difficult. There are some
unusual bits if you have no experience...such as using a silk thread
between the case halves to prevent leaks (saw this on a rebuild video shot
at Mattituck). There also are some special tools you'll need, so don't
forget to add those to the cost of the engine. But the actual procedures
aren't fundamentally different from those you use for a car engine. You're
still torquing bolts, pre-lubing parts, compressing rings, setting timing,
etc. etc.
The big problem is the parts. Aircraft engine parts fail differently than
auto engine parts do. Cylinders crack, for example, often in such a way that
you cannot see the problem with the naked eye. A good shop will magnaflux or
zyglo inspect the parts to determine if they're okay. A fly-by-night
operation may not, or worse, may simply say that they have.
What I'm saying here is that if you, having no specific knowledge of
airplane engines, show up and see this nice-looking pile of FRESHLY PAINTED
(there's an alarm bell!) parts, you won't be able to tell just by looking at
them if they're any good or not. Just asking the seller if they're okay in
no way guarantees that they are in fact serviceable. Caveat emptor.
Since having a reliable engine can literally be a life-or-death matter, does
it not make sense to be patient, put some more money in the bank and just
buy one from a reputable, expert shop with a long track record (e.g.
Mattituck, Penn Yan, etc.)?
I'm just a casual wrench-spinner, confident enough in my own ability to feel
comfortable assembling something like an engine. But an engine assembled by
me (who has never rebuilt an airplane engine) from parts of unknown and
unproven quality is not something I'd want to trust my life to.
-----------------------------------------------------
Andrew Douglas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
In a message dated 1/14/05 11:35:53 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com writes:
I found a 200hp IO 360 A1A advertised for sale. The ad reads.
200hp IO 360 A1A. First Run. NDH, Cleaned, Painted, New Starter, Rings,
scamshaft, Bearings, Exhaust Valves, Magnetos, etc, Log book. Not Certified,
you assemble. $15000.00Canadian Dollars, $12400.00US dollars.
Kevin,
If I had it to do over again, I would not use the angle valve engine -- its
too heavy.
Dan Hopper
Walton Indiana USA (Go Colts!)
RV-7A N766 dh
IO-360-C1E6 converted to -A1B6 (this is like the -A1A except it has
counterweights)
Flying since July but not since December!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Static ports - rivets too short? |
I used Van's pop rivets and the static system seems to work OK. The only
problem I had was that the rivets were too short. There was only about 1/8
inch to put the plastic line over. I wish the rivets were about 1/2 inch long.
Were they just out of the longer rivets when they shipped my kit?
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A - Flying
N766DH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker harness |
I have the pads and buckles on top. If I cross them over, they will be
criss crossed with the pads upside down and the buckles into my chest. Is
your white identifying label stitched into the harness facing up or down. I
may be able to simply pull the ends out of the buckles and switch em.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Hooker harness
>
> Hi Jeff,
>
> Are you sure you don't have the left/right shoulder harnesses on
> backwards?
> Try swapping them over your shoulders and they should fit perfectly. I
> have
> hookers in both my -6's and they work fine.
>
> Oh, and don't forget to simply grind down those bushings to fit!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Hooker harness
>
>
> I just replaced my old belts with Hookers and found the shoulder harness
> attach points into the lap belt are opposite what I think they should be.
> They have a 90 degree bend in them and look like they should fit together
> flush. They way they go together now they seem to interfere. Has anyone
> else found this? Oh yeah, and the lap belt mounting points on the harness
> have a bushing that really spreads the attach points on the plane. Im
> wondering if I should drill out the plane attach points to allow the
> bushing
> to fit through.
>
> On the same subject, for anyone considering installing a crotch strap,
> make
> sure you install them forward enough so they wont come up through your
> cushion. I thought I was forward enough but it turns out the buckle has
> to
> come forward on top of the seat pan and under the cushion before it comes
> up
> to meet the lap belt. This keeps the buckle under the cushion and makes
> it
> a pain in the a@# to adjust.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 150 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Static ports - rivets too short? |
Mine were about the same as yours. I didn't know there were
longer ones. I used a zip tie on there to clamp down on
the tubing.
Mickey
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I used Van's pop rivets and the static system seems to work OK. The only
> problem I had was that the rivets were too short. There was only about 1/8
> inch to put the plastic line over. I wish the rivets were about 1/2 inch long.
> Were they just out of the longer rivets when they shipped my kit?
>
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A - Flying
> N766DH
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: static ports |
In a message dated 1/14/05 2:29:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com writes:
<< one on each side >>
Yes.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hooker harness |
In a message dated 1/14/05 9:09:49 PM Pacific Standard Time,
shempdowling(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< I just replaced my old belts with Hookers and found the shoulder harness
attach points into the lap belt are opposite what I think they should be. They
have a 90 degree bend in them and look like they should fit together flush.
They way they go together now they seem to interfere. Has anyone else found
this?
Shemp: I have Hookers in my RV-6 and noticed early on that it was easy
to get the shoulder harness crossed so that they seemed to interfere. I just
rotate them at the point they attach to the cable and no longer have a problem.
<< Oh yeah, and the lap belt mounting points on the harness have a bushing
that really spreads the attach points on the plane. Im wondering if I should
drill out the plane attach points to allow the bushing to fit through. >>
I filed the bushings so that there was just enough still allow the belt clip
to rotate in the attach points when the blot was tightened. Seems to work
well.
<< On the same subject, for anyone considering installing a crotch strap,
make sure you install them forward enough so they wont come up through your
cushion. I thought I was forward enough but it turns out the buckle has to come
forward on top of the seat pan and under the cushion before it comes up to meet
the lap belt. This keeps the buckle under the cushion and makes it a pain in
the a@# to adjust. >>
Yes. With my Cleveland seats DJ puts a slot for the crotch to poke through
and it is a real pain to adjust. Fortunately I find that I never have to
adjust the crotch strap once it is set correctly. It is a nuisance to remove the
seats, however.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hooker harness |
In a message dated 1/15/05 8:10:29 AM Pacific Standard Time,
shempdowling(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< white identifying label stitched into the harness facing up >>
I'm pretty sure that is correct but I'll check today and let you know.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler attached to engine mount |
Scott,
I laid it up from carbon fibre. Fun, but too time consuming. I'll probably
go with aluminum for the one coming off the baffle. If you want to make one out
of carbon or glass, email me directly and I can maybe help.
Jerry Cochran
jerry2dt(at)aol.com
From: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Oil cooler attached to engine mount
Where did you get that shroud for your oil cooler? I've been looking
for something like that but can't find anything.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Wingwalk material |
Howdy folks-
I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material. Anyone
tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing some grey
wingwalks out there- sources please?
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid=2565/in
dex.html
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
Thanks!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Minimum Realistic Field Length |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home (building withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A, O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a 1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help, Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Wing walk material |
Have you investigated anti-slip material for diving boards and motor home
steps?
Howdy folks-
I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material. Anyone
tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing some
grey
wingwalks out there- sources please?
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid=2565/
in
dex.html
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
Thanks!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Wingwalk material |
I've heard others complain that non-black wing-walk material shows dirt too
easily and is very hard or impossible to clean.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com [mailto:Fiveonepw(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 5:04 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wingwalk material
>
>
> Howdy folks-
>
> I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk
> material. Anyone tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I
> also seem to recall seeing some grey wingwalks out there-
> sources please?
>
> http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=96
> 91~subid=2565/in
> dex.html
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
>
> Thanks!
> Mark
>
>
> ========
> Matronics Forums.
> ========
> ========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length |
The airplane will be able to do 1400', we have flown in and out of 1200'
with a fixed-pitched O-320 RV-6. It is up to you.
Jim
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home
(building withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities.
I would be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum
safe runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would
like to hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be
a 7A, O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of
(never heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'.
Would a 1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side
(go-around if things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks
for the help, Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nels Hanson <pa201950(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length |
At 1,400 ft.,it doesn't depend on the plane,it depends
on the pilot-period. Practice,practice,practice on
longer grass strips marked off so you know what you
can do. The airplane is a constant,the pilot is the
large variable.
--- wrote:
>
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I
> look for a home (building withdrawl), I have been
> evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would
> be interested in hearing from others what they
> believe the minimum safe runway lenth would be. I
> know it is highly subjective, but I would like to
> hear from others with experience. For
> reference...the plane with be a 7A, O360, with FP
> prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of
> (never heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field
> elevation is approx 1000'. Would a 1400' runway be
> doable? I know it would be on the short side
> (go-around if things don't look just right), but
> would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
> Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Dear Sirs,
I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do
not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
something.
On another related issue, what items are you needing to run wires for in
the wings? I can think of landing lights, positioning tip lights,
AOA instrument... anything else? is there any radio, GPS, EFIS wires or
anything else that is ran in the wings that I should consider
while doing this?
- Matt Johnson
http://www.rv7a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length |
I would say that once you got your short field landings down pat, it
would be managable. They stop fairly quickly once you get the wheels
planted. You'll find it wanst to float. Just practice a lot and I
think that 1400 feet would be fine.
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com wrote:
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home (building withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A, O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a 1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help, Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
www.rivetbangers.com
Now with email!!
How you want it,
When you want it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingwalk material |
I bought some medium gray anti-skid stuff at the local hardware store.
It was on a roll and they just cut a bunch off for me. It sticks REALLY
well.
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Howdy folks-
>
>I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material. Anyone
>tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing some grey
>wingwalks out there- sources please?
>
>http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid=2565/in
>dex.html
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
>
>Thanks!
>Mark
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
www.rivetbangers.com
Now with email!!
How you want it,
When you want it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Minimum Realistic Field Length |
Without Obstacles I'd say "EASY PEASY"!!
Even with obstacles, it's still doable, but you have to be much more
carefull. Takeoffs will be easy, but with the FP prop, you'll need to keep
the approach close to nuts on (No sloppy, extra fast approaches). I fly a
similar setup off a grass strip that isn't a whole lot longer and can always
(almost) land with a decent amount of runway to spare. If it's not going my
way during the approach, I simply go around and try it again, and again if
need be.
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com
Subject: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home (building
withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would
be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe
runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to
hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A,
O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never
heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a
1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if
things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)nomadwi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk material |
I previously owned an RV-4 with the clear wing walk material. It had
yellowed (even though the airplane bad been hangared) and look pretty bad
after about 5 years. I removed and installed a nice black wing walk.
Looked much better.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, N722DW
>
> Howdy folks-
>
> I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material. Anyone
> tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing some
> grey
> wingwalks out there- sources please?
>
> http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid=2565/
> in
> dex.html
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed: |
message from valid local sender)
Matt
I just completed this task on RV6 wings. Take a look at the "Routing of
wires and tubes in the Wing" in the Construction FAQ section at
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/confaq.htm
This article should pretty much answer all your questions.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matt Johnson
Subject: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not
processed: message from valid local sender)
Dear Sirs,
I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do
not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
something.
On another related issue, what items are you needing to run wires for in
the wings? I can think of landing lights, positioning tip lights,
AOA instrument... anything else? is there any radio, GPS, EFIS wires or
anything else that is ran in the wings that I should consider
while doing this?
- Matt Johnson
http://www.rv7a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed: |
message from valid local sender)
Low and aft is my recommendation. Van's has a Construction FAQ about this:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Wiring.pdf
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/confaq.htm
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed:
message from valid local sender)
>
> Dear Sirs,
>
> I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
> conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
> the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
> mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
> looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
> for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
> one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do
> not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
> something.
>
> On another related issue, what items are you needing to run wires for in
> the wings? I can think of landing lights, positioning tip lights,
> AOA instrument... anything else? is there any radio, GPS, EFIS wires or
> anything else that is ran in the wings that I should consider
> while doing this?
>
> - Matt Johnson
> http://www.rv7a.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | cutting teflon hose |
I have some stainless steel braided teflon hose that I'll be using for
oil and fuel. Is it OK to use a dremel cut-off disk to cut this type of
hose?
--
Thanks,
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi folks,
I was on page 6-2, preparing the ribs. It says, "notch the aft end of HS-404
ribs to fit around HS-810 & HS-814." In doing so, I cut a little too much
metal and don't have a flush fit. Is this critical (i.e., do I send to Vans for
new HS-404's and start over)? The line that was supposed to be flush against
810 & 814 is not particularly straight and has as much as 2mm gap. I did this
fiasco by first drillin a small hole at what I thought would be the corner of
the notch and then cutting with snips. Done over, I would use a much smaller
drill bit and a band saw.
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Starting the empennage
EAA 0219782
AOPA 665085
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed: message |
...
In a message dated 01/15/2005 8:41:41 PM Central Standard Time,
matt(at)n559rv.com writes:
I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do
not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
something.
>>>>>>
I made a simple jig that held each rib firmly in the same position- a short
piece of 2x12 with wood blocks nailed at several places around the edge of the
rib. I clamped this to the table of my drill press and used a step drill to
make each hole in the same location, production line style. Mine are about 2"
behind the spar, about 1" below the top skin (-6A). Took about 10 minutes to
drill all the ribs for each wing. The holes were sized for a single length of
5/8 CPVC. Installing the CPVC took about 5 seconds (chamfer the end you
insert- slips right through) Once the wires are shoved through (another couple
of
minutes), and the tube is just where ya want it, GOOP the outer end to the
end rib and move on to other stuff...
My tips house the typical landing/taxi/postion and strobe lights (including
the power supplies), and the right wingtip also has the Navaid wing leveler
servo- still lots of room for antenna wire if desired.
Fotos if interested-
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Minimum Realistic Field Length |
Plan on doing your initial flight testing off a longer strip, and
don't land at your strip until you have mastered the aircraft.
Kevin Horton
>
>Without Obstacles I'd say "EASY PEASY"!!
>
>Even with obstacles, it's still doable, but you have to be much more
>carefull. Takeoffs will be easy, but with the FP prop, you'll need to keep
>the approach close to nuts on (No sloppy, extra fast approaches). I fly a
>similar setup off a grass strip that isn't a whole lot longer and can always
>(almost) land with a decent amount of runway to spare. If it's not going my
>way during the approach, I simply go around and try it again, and again if
>need be.
>
>Just my 2 cents.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6's, Minneapolis
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
>
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home (building
>withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would
>be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe
>runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to
>hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A,
>O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never
>heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a
>1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if
>things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
>Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com> |
| Subject: | BlueSky Aviation |
I would like to share my story regarding Bluesky Aviation Aka Noel Simmons to any
and all
interested parties. I have pictures during final construction to back up my claims
& repairs
that had to be done to correct what he had done to my airplane and charged me for.
I was
hoping to reach the 10 & 9 list can anyone confirm off list if I reached you as
well.
Regards
Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting teflon hose |
Yes. Wrap the ends you plan to cut with electrical tape and cut em
off. We used to make lots of brake lines and used a similar tool to do
the job. I don't recommend a hacksaw, makes a mess of the ends.
--
Mike Nellis
Austin, TX
CMRA #32 Honda RC51
'97 YZF1000
'47 Stinson 108-2; RV6 (Fuselage)
http://bmnellis.com
sarg314 wrote:
>
>I have some stainless steel braided teflon hose that I'll be using for
>oil and fuel. Is it OK to use a dremel cut-off disk to cut this type of
>hose?
>--
>Thanks,
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? |
Here is how I did it:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 041026231058140
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 041214233000234
Stuff that I've run through there are:
1) position lights
2) strobe wires (rather fat bundle)
3) landing/taxi lights
4) 2 x 1/8" AOA plastic tubing
Still to come may be the EFIS magnometer wires, unless
I put them in the fuselage.
Mickey
Matt Johnson wrote:
>
> Dear Sirs,
>
> I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
> conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
> the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
> mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
> looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
> for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
> one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do
> not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
> something.
>
> On another related issue, what items are you needing to run wires for in
> the wings? I can think of landing lights, positioning tip lights,
> AOA instrument... anything else? is there any radio, GPS, EFIS wires or
> anything else that is ran in the wings that I should consider
> while doing this?
>
> - Matt Johnson
> http://www.rv7a.com
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting teflon hose |
Hi Tom,
I watched a pro cut some with a cutting wheel in a chopsaw. I came home and
got out the dremel, worked just fine. I only broke a few cutting discs, Per
hose {;-)
Use a couple of wraps of masking tape tightly over the cut point so that the
wire does not fray too much. (saves the fingers from those nasty little wire
stabs for one thing)
Another wrap of tape wrapped once around so that it's edges line up at the
cut point will help get a straight cut. Be sure to carefully clean out the
hose. Remove the tape when assembling the hose and fittings.
Tape over the fitting ends (cover) untill the hose is to be installed.
Happy hosing {[;-)
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: cutting teflon hose
>
> I have some stainless steel braided teflon hose that I'll be using for
> oil and fuel. Is it OK to use a dremel cut-off disk to cut this type of
> hose?
> --
> Thanks,
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Minimum Realistic Field Length |
Amen to that. I was flying off of a 5,000 foot runway on my first flight.
Damn near used all of it on the first landing. Almost had to go around.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: RE: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
Plan on doing your initial flight testing off a longer strip, and
don't land at your strip until you have mastered the aircraft.
Kevin Horton
>
>Without Obstacles I'd say "EASY PEASY"!!
>
>Even with obstacles, it's still doable, but you have to be much more
>carefull. Takeoffs will be easy, but with the FP prop, you'll need to keep
>the approach close to nuts on (No sloppy, extra fast approaches). I fly a
>similar setup off a grass strip that isn't a whole lot longer and can
always
>(almost) land with a decent amount of runway to spare. If it's not going
my
>way during the approach, I simply go around and try it again, and again if
>need be.
>
>Just my 2 cents.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6's, Minneapolis
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
>
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home
(building
>withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would
>be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe
>runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to
>hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A,
>O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never
>heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a
>1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if
>things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
>Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length |
Follow Kevins advice and as someone else said , practice on a longer field
to be sure you can do the landing the SAME way every time.
I practiced on an airport with 800' to the turnoff , and when I could stop
by the turn-off , I practiced some more. I fly from our 1100' grass strip
with 150 HP/ wood prop RV-4 - solo only. I think it would get my wife and me
out BUT those odds aren't good enough to put us at risk.
Be safe and fly happy.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
So there is no problem running the wing leveler, AOA tube or antenna wires in the
same conduit as the power wires?
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 23:05:59 EST
Subject: Re: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed: message
...
>
> In a message dated 01/15/2005 8:41:41 PM Central Standard Time,
> matt(at)n559rv.com writes:
> I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
> conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
> the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
> mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
> looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
> for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
> one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I
> do
> not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
> something.
> >>>>>>
>
> I made a simple jig that held each rib firmly in the same position- a
> short
> piece of 2x12 with wood blocks nailed at several places around the edge
> of the
> rib. I clamped this to the table of my drill press and used a step
> drill to
> make each hole in the same location, production line style. Mine are
> about 2"
> behind the spar, about 1" below the top skin (-6A). Took about 10
> minutes to
> drill all the ribs for each wing. The holes were sized for a single
> length of
> 5/8 CPVC. Installing the CPVC took about 5 seconds (chamfer the end
> you
> insert- slips right through) Once the wires are shoved through
> (another couple of
> minutes), and the tube is just where ya want it, GOOP the outer end to
> the
> end rib and move on to other stuff...
>
> My tips house the typical landing/taxi/postion and strobe lights
> (including
> the power supplies), and the right wingtip also has the Navaid wing
> leveler
> servo- still lots of room for antenna wire if desired.
>
> Fotos if interested-
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
Personally, I would be cautious about dealing with a Canadian company. I know there
are some good ones but some things to be aware of, 1) Customs fees and, 2)
potential state sales taxes.
I am in a nightmare ordeal with a Canadian engine company. I am currently out $25K,
plus $1300 in Customs fees and another $1500 in State sales taxes. The Customs
and State sales taxes were not disclosed by the company for obvious reasons.
Additionally, we are now forced to take legal action. Although the "borders" do
present some obstacles they are not insurmountable. They were for a few others
screwed by the company. These folks did not get an engine or their money back
but did not go after them.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Owner of nearly completed RV that may never fly thanks to a Canadian company.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk material |
You can make your own custom wing walk anti-slip surface that matches the paint
perfectly. It is better than clear plastic if you want something to blend in.
I had my plane professionally painted and wanted to use the clear plastic, but
the painter talked me out of it. He painted on the wind walk areas that matched
the color of the plane exactly. I watched him and don't recall the exact details
but this is the general idea:
First he did NOT use the commercial walk paint that leaves a rough surface because
it will not match your paint exactly. He made is own anti-skid-walk paint:
Tape the area off, any pattern your heart desires; Protect the adjacent areas;
Prep the surface and lay down wet paint; Apply anti-skid "sand"; Re-spray paint
over the top with the finish coat.
It matches the plane perfectly, is even and thin.
I believe the "sand" is made for this purpose, and it is fine sand that comes in
different colors. I think he got it at the hardware store. Using a shaker or
screen he evenly spread the sand out on the wet paint. You blow the excess off,
let it tack and paint. Straight forward.
It makes a perfect rough surface (not too rough) that is color matched, and in
600 hours never wore thru or off. Even if it did start to wear-off, it would be
the same color as the plane. The jet glow paint never wore. It has a nice look,
subtle and discreet but still gives a safe walk area.
Good Luck. G
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker harness |
Keep in mind that Hooker will correct any problem.
Too long, straps pulling down instead of up to tighten, need loosening straps?
Just call them. Mine work great. They even shortened and re-sewed all the
extra
on the shoulder straps. Looks a lot better. No charge.
To the original thread - I think you have them switched right and left
Larry Olson
RV6 DVT
Flying
><< I just replaced my old belts with Hookers and found the shoulder harness
>attach points into the lap belt are opposite what I think they should
>be. They
>have a 90 degree bend in them and look like they should fit together flush.
>They way they go together now they seem to interfere. Has anyone else found
>this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Mader" <davemader(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Wingwalk material |
Mark,
Worst mistake I ever made. Put it on and thought cool! I can still see the
color
of my wings through it. Then it gets dirty, then you try to clean it and
you
can't, then you try to take it off. What a mess.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Wingwalk material
Howdy folks-
I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material. Anyone
tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing some
grey
wingwalks out there- sources please?
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid=2565/
in
dex.html
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
Thanks!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? |
If you're putting a VOR in your bird, I recommend running coax to one or
your wingtips for your antenna. You can use that black corrugated plastic
tubing as a good, light conduit. Any auto store will have this.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit?
>
> Here is how I did it:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 041026231058140
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 041214233000234
>
> Stuff that I've run through there are:
>
> 1) position lights
> 2) strobe wires (rather fat bundle)
> 3) landing/taxi lights
> 4) 2 x 1/8" AOA plastic tubing
>
> Still to come may be the EFIS magnometer wires, unless
> I put them in the fuselage.
>
> Mickey
>
>
> Matt Johnson wrote:
>>
>> Dear Sirs,
>>
>> I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
>> conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
>> the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
>> mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
>> looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
>> for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
>> one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do
>> not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
>> something.
>>
>> On another related issue, what items are you needing to run wires for in
>> the wings? I can think of landing lights, positioning tip lights,
>> AOA instrument... anything else? is there any radio, GPS, EFIS wires or
>> anything else that is ran in the wings that I should consider
>> while doing this?
>>
>> - Matt Johnson
>> http://www.rv7a.com
>>
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingwalk material |
I used Van's black wing walk with the model logo on it. It has always
drawn compliments. Very easy to clean, looks great. Still on there
after 7.5 years and many stompings, approx 3000 sorties. Still a good
anti skid surface. It appears to be a modern 3M product, not the old
ugly black things found on older airplanes.
Am I the only one who likes the "stock" wing walk??
Denis
On Jan 15, 2005, at 7:01 PM, Scott VanArtsdalen wrote:
>
> I bought some medium gray anti-skid stuff at the local hardware store.
> It was on a roll and they just cut a bunch off for me. It sticks
> REALLY
> well.
>
> Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Howdy folks-
>>
>> I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material.
>> Anyone
>> tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing
>> some grey
>> wingwalks out there- sources please?
>>
>> http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/
>> pid=9691~subid=2565/in
>> dex.html
>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> Van Arts Consulting Services
> 3848 McHenry Ave
> Suite #155-184
> Modesto, CA 95356
> 209-986-4647
> www.rivetbangers.com
> Now with email!!
> How you want it,
> When you want it.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Minimum Realistic Field Length |
> >
> > All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home
>(building
> >withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I
>would
> >be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe
> >runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like
>to
> >hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a
>7A,
> >O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never
> >heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would
>a
> >1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around
>if
> >things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the
>help,
> >Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
1000' field elevation? Must be nice! Density altitude here in Albuquerque
can often get to 8500' on hot summer days. Takes 1000' just to get the tail
up!
I'd also dearly love an airpark situation. Just lost two real estate deals
at one locally due to piss poor timing. But, I digress.
If it wasn't for the runway requirements here, I'd just buy some land out in
the middle of nowhere and make my own strip. Would need a couple hundred
acres though! Could rent it out to NASA as another backup Space Shuttle
landing site.
Best of luck to you and yes, practice until you can plant that airplane
exactly where you want it every time. Need to have a built-in training
factor for muscle memory when you're returning from a long trip with fuel
AND mental bandwidth levels running low.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: battery charging |
Regardless of the debate about trickle charges and charging, one thing that comes
to mind talking about any charger left hooked to your Plane. In a hanger this
is a FIRE DANGER. As a few mentioned a case where a battery just blew up
("Blew up real good it did"). It apparently can happen, and charging can set this
off, even if the battery was working normally up to that point. I don't know
the history of the AGM (absorbed glass mat) or SLA batteries.
The "FIRE CODE" for most structures, including commercial buildings like hangers
have rules regarding extension cords plugged into chargers or anything for that
matter. I am pretty sure it is against "code" to have extension cords plugged
in and un-attended. We had fire dept inspections. The Chief would leave warning
to occupants (subject to fine) if they found extension cords plugged in.
Apparently extension cords are a common cause of fires. Add the danger of that
rare but possible case where a battery has an internally short, overheating itself
or the charger or both. I just am not comfortable leaving a charger hooked-up
and un-attended. In my opinion there is some fire risk. Do it at your own
risk, but what about the adjacent hangers.
I wounder if insurance would pay off if a battery charger or it's extension chord
were the cause of a fire. I know some of the modern chargers have internal
short sensing and protection. I also can't believe it but apparently some chargers
do not have short or fuse protection. Be careful.
G (RV-4, RV-7)
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Final Inspection? |
Bert:
EAA members have a lot of this info at their fingertips.
Here is what the EAA says you need.
http://members.eaa.org/home/govt/issues/inspection_guide_airplane.asp
Info on registering and licensing.
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/registering/register.html
EAA List of AB DARs.
http://members.eaa.org/home/govt/help/ab_dar.asp
In the EAA DAR Directory, look for EAA Volunteer DAR. They only charge
expenses. There are 2 in Flordia. Looks like many states have at least one
except for Texas and California where there are 4 in each state.
All the links require EAA membership.
Give one of the AB DARs a call and see what they can do for you. If you
have a friendly FSDO / MIDO, they also can help. The problem in California
is that they have been known to come out but it sometimes takes weeks.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,621 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: bertrv6(at)highstream.net
Subject: RV-List: Final Inspection?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 11:15:15 -0500
Hi:
I am ready for the final Inspection. I understand I have to have
the Alt.and Transponder certified before, the Inspection.
What is the bet way to do this, and least expensive? they want
$300 for this hour job?
HOw about the Static system, can I do that...
After this is completed, what is the fastest way to get an Inpector
to certify the aircraft..it seems is very difficult here in FL. to get
some one. Must one have to pay an DAR, $300 ?
Any suggestions on this, is appreciated it...
Bert
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M |
Greetings,
I'm building an RV-9A with an Aerosport Power O-320
and a FP prop. I'm trying choose between a JPI EDM-700
vs a EI UBG-16-4M for the engine monitor. The price
through Chief Aircraft is almost a wash. Since all of the
aviation mags have both of them as advertisers, there is
no neutral party I can find to evaluate them. Either one would
be fine with me, but I'd like your insights...
Thanks...
Joe Connell, RV-9A, N95JJ, finishing
Stewartville, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
There must be more to the story. I bought my Superior XP-IO-360-B1B from
Aero Sport Power in British Columbia. It couldn't have been easier. I
think I recall a $35 or $50 customs fee, arranged by Aero Sport Power, and I
also think I paid $150 for crating and shipping. I am very pleased with the
engine and the entire transaction. The state sales tax will be just like
everything else on the airplane - due when I register it.
I'm also a little concerned about your characterization of the company only
as a Canadian company. Obviously, something went very wrong on your engine
purchase, but I'm willing to bet that it had very little to do with the fact
that it was located in Canada. As for the state sales tax, that has to be
Arizona's rules. What ever happened, it has to be a real bummer. We count
on the people we deal with to make their agreements in good faith.
I hope you get your money back, but when you do, I would recommend Aero
Sport Power as a source for your engine. And they are in Canada.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Installing oil cooler
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Darwin N. Barrie
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A
Personally, I would be cautious about dealing with a Canadian company. I
know there are some good ones but some things to be aware of, 1) Customs
fees and, 2) potential state sales taxes.
I am in a nightmare ordeal with a Canadian engine company. I am currently
out $25K, plus $1300 in Customs fees and another $1500 in State sales taxes.
The Customs and State sales taxes were not disclosed by the company for
obvious reasons.
Additionally, we are now forced to take legal action. Although the "borders"
do present some obstacles they are not insurmountable. They were for a few
others screwed by the company. These folks did not get an engine or their
money back but did not go after them.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Owner of nearly completed RV that may never fly thanks to a Canadian
company.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Shutdown problems and fuel selector valve |
I have been having trouble shutting down my engine, the first case I
had was a slipping mixture cable but now the engine does not stop at
idle cut off and when the prop does stop it just starts turning the
opposite direction. so I finally removed the fuel control servo and I
am shipping it back to airflow performance. I spoke with the builder of
my airplane and he mentioned he had the same problem shutting down at
one point and he just would turn the fuel selector to off and when the
engine began to starve he would shutdown and the engine would quit.
so, I tried this approach before I removed the servo and no joy, the
engine would stumble but not quit. I pushed the plane in the hangar and
the fuel inlet hose and the outlet hose were both hanging from the
engine.... Hummmm, I turned the fuel selector to off and hit the boost
pump. Sure enough fuel was pouring out of the hose I let about a 1/2
gallon run out to make sure it was really pumping fuel from the
tanks...
My question is.... Is this normal? I would think that if you turn the
fuel selector to off then no fuel would go past the firewall.
Don at airflow wants to sell me a purge valve but I really do not want
to go that route because most people say it is really for hot starts
not shutting down. Plus, I like to find the root of a problem not just
spending more money to take care of a problem by added heavy expensive
stuff.
Any and all comment welcome!
Jason
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M |
I have delt with both companies and own products from both. I have found
each to offer a great product and fantastic service. I don't think you can
make a mistake either way.(i currently have a JPI 700)
John Furey
RV6A O-320 CS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gar Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net> |
I had wanted to put a heated pitot in the 9A I am building. I saw the letter from
Gretz Aero in the archives, and was thinking of getting the Gretz mounting
kit and the GA1000 probe if it becomes available. I have been unable to contact
Gretz, either by phone or email. I do not want to buy the $900 plus probe
from Aircraft Spruce. Does anyone know of other options, mounting kits, etc.
Gar Pessel Fairbanks, AK building on and happily flying a 6, once it warms up
again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
Darwin:
I, as well as many others, have had very good dealing with Canadians. I
have had more bad dealings with people here in the US than I have had in
Canada. (Greater % of dealing have been negative with companies in the US
where I live and am a resident.)
Would it be better to say that "...YOU DO NOT FOR ANY REASON ON GODS GREEN
EARTH WANT TO DEAL WITH CROSSFLOW!!!! I AM CURRENTLY OUT $26,0000 AND MY
NEIGHBOR IS OUT $15,000. Contact me off line for details." From: AZ_RVList
Arizona-RV List at yahoogroups.com Fri Jan 14, 2005 5:55 pm
The name of the company is now out for all to see and you did not have to
post it to this forum to have it out here. I hope that this does not make
it difficult for any litigation that is taking place.
I just want to set the record straight that all my fellow Canadian aviators
are great people. Too bad that they have been keeping secret from the rest
of North America how great a vacation value British Columbia is.
If I were going to buy an Experimental engine for my amateur built RV
aircraft, Canadian company PowerSport would be one of the top 3 picks for a
Lycoming (or Lycoming clone) engine.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,621 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
------Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Darwin N. Barrie
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A
Personally, I would be cautious about dealing with a Canadian company. I
know there are some good ones but some things to be aware of, 1) Customs
fees and, 2) potential state sales taxes.
I am in a nightmare ordeal with a Canadian engine company. I am currently
out $25K, plus $1300 in Customs fees and another $1500 in State sales taxes.
The Customs and State sales taxes were not disclosed by the company for
obvious reasons.
Additionally, we are now forced to take legal action. Although the "borders"
do present some obstacles they are not insurmountable. They were for a few
others screwed by the company. These folks did not get an engine or their
money back but did not go after them.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Owner of nearly completed RV that may never fly thanks to a Canadian
company.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M |
> I'm building an RV-9A with an Aerosport Power O-320
> and a FP prop. I'm trying choose between a JPI EDM-700
> vs a EI UBG-16-4M for the engine monitor. The price
> through Chief Aircraft is almost a wash. Since all of the
> aviation mags have both of them as advertisers, there is
> no neutral party I can find to evaluate them. Either one would
> be fine with me, but I'd like your insights...
You might want to consider one of the more comprehensive engine monitor
systems. The Advanced Flight Systems ACS2002 (soon to be AF-2500) is the
pick of the litter imho. Here's a comparison...
http://www.advanced-control-systems.com/MonitorComparisons/monitorscomparison.htm
You may find that it ends up cheaper given the other instruments you don't
have to buy.
Randy Lervold
RV-3, fuselage
RV-8, sold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Patterson" <kbob(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Interior paint recommendation |
Hi builders,
Just want to post my thoughts on painting my interior this weekend.
First off - use an HVLP gravity feed (pot on top) gun. It uses about 1/3 to
1/4 of the paint a suction feed uses. Almost no overspray. No kidding. I
went with a Sharppe Cobalt series gun with 1.6 mm tip at 30 PSI. Best $130
I spent so far.
Second - I really like the Jet-Flex water reducible interior polyurethane.
Water cleanup. Only rates a 2 on health hazard (about the same as cake).
Zero on flammability & other stuff. Fast cure, and very tough. Not as
tough as the 2 part brain killer, but at 90% who cares. This is a Sherwin
Williams product and I used a quart to paint the whole interior, under the
panel, and inside the ski tunnel. About $38 FWIW. I wish they had this for
exterior paint! DIY no problemo!
Now to glue the canopy on.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A tipper
PHX, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
>
>
>>
>>I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator error
>>using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>>didn't find
>>specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering if
>>the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>>Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>>Dale Ensing
>>RV6A N118DE
>>
>>
>
>I'm on the road this week, working very long days, so I wasn't keeping up
>to date on the RV-List.
>
>The ideal static port would be at a location where the pressure was equal
>to the free stream pressure at every flight condition. Unfortunately, the
>air flow has to accelerate and decelerate as it goes around the aircraft,
>and Bernoulli's Law tells us that this will cause the pressure to
>change. At any given flight condition there are a number of locations on
>the aircraft where the pressure is equal to the free stream static
>pressure. But, if you change flight conditions, these locations end up
>somewhere else. It is very, very difficult to find a good location for
>static ports.
>
>Van's static port is a domed head pop rivet. Some people are offended by
>the protruding head, and replace it with something that is flatter, like
>the Cleaveland or ACS static ports. But you need to realize that Van isn't
>stupid, and there is a reason why he used a protruding static port - it
>works. The airflow will have to accelerate a bit as it goes over that
>domed head, and this will cause the pressure to fall. In other words, if
>you have a more flush static port, at the same location, this port will
>sense a higher pressure. ASI readings are a function of the difference
>between pitot and static pressures, so the flatter static port will lead to
>lower ASI readings.
>
>I've seem info from several builders who have modified the flush static
>ports to make them more like Van's design, and they reported that the
>accuracy of their ASI and altimeter improved. I have also seen messages
>from two builders who are sure that their ASI is accurate with the flatter
>static ports. And I bet most RVers have no idea how accurate their ASI and
>altimeter are at all. Every RV is a bit different, due to small changes in
>skin contour ahead of the static port, so every one will have a slightly
>different static system error. And every ASI has a different instrument
>error. If you are lucky, the error in your ASI will cancel out the error
>in your static system.
>
>If your ASI reads a bit low, that is no big deal, except you should lower
>your max flap speed and VNE a bit to compensate. But, if you fly IFR you
>need to understand that static system errors also affect the altimeter. I
>wouldn't want to be shooting instrument approaches without knowing what
>errors my altimeter had, and compensating for them.
>
>You also have to understand that ASIs have instrument error too, so at
>first glance there is no way of knowing whether your problem is ASI
>instrument error, pitot-static leaks, static system error or a problem with
>the way you determined the ASI accuracy.
>
>I've got a bunch of info on my web site on how to check the ASI accuracy
>using a homemade water manometer. Then, I've got info on how to do static
>system accuracy flight testing, including a spreadsheet to crunch the
>data. See:
>
>http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/ssec.html
>
>The whole list of links on pitot-static systems is at:
>
>http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/phplinks/index.php?PID=47
>
>Kevin Horton
>RV-8 (Finishing Kit)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
I'm one of the guys Kevin helped (over 5 years ago). I've never been too
interested in indicated airspeed except knowing what it reads when I'm
about to stall. I had noticed that my cruise ASI indication (RV-4) in
still air was about 10 kts below what the LORAN was telling me & just
wrote it off as normal aircraft quality stuff. The only reason I got
concerned about this issue was that after an altimeter I failure &
replacement I happened to glance at the new altimeter while doing a
200+mph pass down the runway at my home strip. I discovered that I was
flying about 75' below field elevation & surviving the experience.
Kevin asked if I had flush static ports; I did. He advised adding
'bumps' over the ports; I did (heads from 3/16" pop rivets, RTV'd over
the ports). Not only did it remove the plane's ability to fly 75' below
field elevation at 200mph, but it improved my cruise speed by 10 kts :-)
(ASI now agreed with LORAN in still air).
Charlie
(Thanks again, Kevin.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: static ports |
Kevin's explanation for putting the T midpoint between
the two ports makes sense, yet the plans for the 7 and
9 have the T on one side. Since I'm just about to
install my pop rivet static system, does anyone have
any comments about which location is better?
Thanks,
Mark
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: battery charging - better charger? |
All the discussion about "trickle chargers", "float chargers", "cooking the
battery", "boiling or otherwise losing electrolyte" - the charger I bought
from Wal-mart, Schumacher, for about $25 (1998), has a selectable 2 or 10
amp charge rate.
I have monitored it (by hooking up my multimeter to its leads on the battery
terminals) on several batteries over the past 7 years and here's how it
operates, which seems ideal to me:
It slowly increases voltage until it reaches about 14.2v (If I remember
correctly, or slightly higher) (on my multimeter I have clipped onto the
charger's clips), then SHUTS OFF (green light comes on. Now the battery is
self-discharging and slowly goes down to 13.0 V (12.99) at which time the
charging current is turned back on, starts at 13.5 or so and slowly builds
up again to 14.2v and shuts off again.
A battery that was badly discharged, would take a long time to reach 14.2
and shutdown for freefall, but would freefall rather rapidly (maybe a minute
to reach 13.0). A fully charged battery would discharge very slowly (15' or
more) and when it came on at 12.99v, it would reach 14.2 in about the blink
of an eye - 1 second or so and do another very slow freefall. So, the fully
charged battery was only being "momentarily pulsed" with current, not
continuously - no boiling or losing electrolyte.
Isn't this about as good as one could want?
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Shutdown problems and fuel selector valve |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on zoot.lafn.org
Jason,
Sounds like you have a plumbing problem - the valve should shut the fuel
off completely. My guess is that either the valve is bad (unlikely) or
it's installed incorrectly. However your problem with the engine not
shutting down with the mixture control is NORMAL in most airplanes with
AFP fuel injection. Mine did the same thing after about 50 hours and
Don at AFP told me the same thing - install the purge valve. I did so
reluctantly, but it's one of the best mods I've done on the airplane! It
not only shuts down cleanly, but it starts reliably every time no mater
how hot it is. I'd do it again in a minute!
I recommend that anyone with AFP seriously consider installing the purge
valve.
Dave RV6, So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor and Flight Advisor
Jason Sneed wrote:
>
>I have been having trouble shutting down my engine, the first case I
>had was a slipping mixture cable but now the engine does not stop at
>idle cut off and when the prop does stop it just starts turning the
>opposite direction. so I finally removed the fuel control servo and I
>am shipping it back to airflow performance. I spoke with the builder of
>my airplane and he mentioned he had the same problem shutting down at
>one point and he just would turn the fuel selector to off and when the
>engine began to starve he would shutdown and the engine would quit.
>
>so, I tried this approach before I removed the servo and no joy, the
>engine would stumble but not quit. I pushed the plane in the hangar and
>the fuel inlet hose and the outlet hose were both hanging from the
>engine.... Hummmm, I turned the fuel selector to off and hit the boost
>pump. Sure enough fuel was pouring out of the hose I let about a 1/2
>gallon run out to make sure it was really pumping fuel from the
>tanks...
>
>My question is.... Is this normal? I would think that if you turn the
>fuel selector to off then no fuel would go past the firewall.
>
>Don at airflow wants to sell me a purge valve but I really do not want
>to go that route because most people say it is really for hot starts
>not shutting down. Plus, I like to find the root of a problem not just
>spending more money to take care of a problem by added heavy expensive
>stuff.
>
>Any and all comment welcome!
>
>Jason
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Wingwalk material |
I bought some of the clear wing walk material from aircraft spruce. I
cut this to the appropriate size, rounded the corners.
I then painted this wing walk material with the paint I used to paint my
plane, PPG Concept.
I then peeled the backing off the wing walk material and applied it to
the plane.
This has been on the plane for 300 hours and shows now wear. Paint still
looks good.
John Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Wingwalk material
Howdy folks-
I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material. Anyone
tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing
some grey
wingwalks out there- sources please?
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid=2
565/in
dex.html
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
Thanks!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M |
Some of us with long memories wouldn't buy a free lunch from JPI, but it's
your problem only if you choose to make it yours. Check the archives back a
few years to see what they tried to do to our man Matt and his Matronics.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe & Jan Connell
Subject: RV-List: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M
Greetings,
I'm building an RV-9A with an Aerosport Power O-320
and a FP prop. I'm trying choose between a JPI EDM-700
vs a EI UBG-16-4M for the engine monitor. The price
through Chief Aircraft is almost a wash. Since all of the
aviation mags have both of them as advertisers, there is
no neutral party I can find to evaluate them. Either one would
be fine with me, but I'd like your insights...
Thanks...
Joe Connell, RV-9A, N95JJ, finishing
Stewartville, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark manda <mark2nite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
Ah shoot. So I will have ASI errors then with my
static ports. Take a look at them in my RV file if
you get a chance. hope the link works.
http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/mark2nite
mark
riverside,ca
--- Charlie England wrote:
>
>
> Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>I remember reading somewhere some time ago about
> airspeed indicator error
> >>using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets.
> Searched archives,
> >>didn't find
> >>specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is
> reading low and wondering if
> >>the Cleveland static ports may have something to
> do with it.
> >>Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
> >>Dale Ensing
> >>RV6A N118DE
> >>
> >>
> >
> >I'm on the road this week, working very long days,
> so I wasn't keeping up
> >to date on the RV-List.
> >
> >The ideal static port would be at a location where
> the pressure was equal
> >to the free stream pressure at every flight
> condition. Unfortunately, the
> >air flow has to accelerate and decelerate as it
> goes around the aircraft,
> >and Bernoulli's Law tells us that this will cause
> the pressure to
> >change. At any given flight condition there are a
> number of locations on
> >the aircraft where the pressure is equal to the
> free stream static
> >pressure. But, if you change flight conditions,
> these locations end up
> >somewhere else. It is very, very difficult to find
> a good location for
> >static ports.
> >
> >Van's static port is a domed head pop rivet. Some
> people are offended by
> >the protruding head, and replace it with something
> that is flatter, like
> >the Cleaveland or ACS static ports. But you need
> to realize that Van isn't
> >stupid, and there is a reason why he used a
> protruding static port - it
> >works. The airflow will have to accelerate a bit
> as it goes over that
> >domed head, and this will cause the pressure to
> fall. In other words, if
> >you have a more flush static port, at the same
> location, this port will
> >sense a higher pressure. ASI readings are a
> function of the difference
> >between pitot and static pressures, so the flatter
> static port will lead to
> >lower ASI readings.
> >
> >I've seem info from several builders who have
> modified the flush static
> >ports to make them more like Van's design, and they
> reported that the
> >accuracy of their ASI and altimeter improved. I
> have also seen messages
> >from two builders who are sure that their ASI is
> accurate with the flatter
> >static ports. And I bet most RVers have no idea
> how accurate their ASI and
> >altimeter are at all. Every RV is a bit different,
> due to small changes in
> >skin contour ahead of the static port, so every one
> will have a slightly
> >different static system error. And every ASI has a
> different instrument
> >error. If you are lucky, the error in your ASI
> will cancel out the error
> >in your static system.
> >
> >If your ASI reads a bit low, that is no big deal,
> except you should lower
> >your max flap speed and VNE a bit to compensate.
> But, if you fly IFR you
> >need to understand that static system errors also
> affect the altimeter. I
> >wouldn't want to be shooting instrument approaches
> without knowing what
> >errors my altimeter had, and compensating for them.
> >
> >You also have to understand that ASIs have
> instrument error too, so at
> >first glance there is no way of knowing whether
> your problem is ASI
> >instrument error, pitot-static leaks, static system
> error or a problem with
> >the way you determined the ASI accuracy.
> >
> >I've got a bunch of info on my web site on how to
> check the ASI accuracy
> >using a homemade water manometer. Then, I've got
> info on how to do static
> >system accuracy flight testing, including a
> spreadsheet to crunch the
> >data. See:
> >
> >http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/ssec.html
> >
> >The whole list of links on pitot-static systems is
> at:
> >
>
>http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/phplinks/index.php?PID=47
> >
> >Kevin Horton
> >RV-8 (Finishing Kit)
> >Ottawa, Canada
> >http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
> >
>
> I'm one of the guys Kevin helped (over 5 years ago).
> I've never been too
> interested in indicated airspeed except knowing what
> it reads when I'm
> about to stall. I had noticed that my cruise ASI
> indication (RV-4) in
> still air was about 10 kts below what the LORAN was
> telling me & just
> wrote it off as normal aircraft quality stuff. The
> only reason I got
> concerned about this issue was that after an
> altimeter I failure &
> replacement I happened to glance at the new
> altimeter while doing a
> 200+mph pass down the runway at my home strip. I
> discovered that I was
> flying about 75' below field elevation & surviving
> the experience.
>
> Kevin asked if I had flush static ports; I did. He
> advised adding
> 'bumps' over the ports; I did (heads from 3/16" pop
> rivets, RTV'd over
> the ports). Not only did it remove the plane's
> ability to fly 75' below
> field elevation at 200mph, but it improved my cruise
> speed by 10 kts :-)
> (ASI now agreed with LORAN in still air).
>
> deleted from this
> space>
>
> Charlie
> (Thanks again, Kevin.)
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
=== message truncated ==
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: heated pitot |
Hi Gar,
I have a Cessna heated pitot that I bought a while back at a wrecker. It
will be used in place of the Dynon heated Pitot that I hope will come into
production soon. Dynon already produces the non heated model that I think
will be upgradeable to heated type by adding the heater when it comes
available.
Dynons stated price for the unheated pitot is $199.00
http://www.dynondevelopment.com/index.html
I took a look at how Cessna approached the mounting issue. I built my own
mounting bracket section for the Cessna unit. Rocket science does not apply
here. I hand formed mine out of .032 sheet material and had a friend weld
the parts. The outcome is quite satisfactory and should also fit the newer
Dynon unit.
Hand drawn picture available. Photos also.
I expect that the serviceable used units will be few and far between now
that the new unit prices have skyrocketed. The used prices will likely be
reflecting today's new unit pricing by now.
$900.00!, It is hard to believe that the cost of an already existing and in
production design heated pitot could jump that much. Maybe that's in
"monopoly" money?!{[;-`
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gar Pessel" <pessel(at)ptialaska.net>
Subject: RV-List: heated pitot
>
> I had wanted to put a heated pitot in the 9A I am building. I saw the
> letter from Gretz Aero in the archives, and was thinking of getting the
> Gretz mounting kit and the GA1000 probe if it becomes available. I have
> been unable to contact Gretz, either by phone or email. I do not want to
> buy the $900 plus probe from Aircraft Spruce. Does anyone know of other
> options, mounting kits, etc.
>
> Gar Pessel Fairbanks, AK building on and happily flying a 6, once it
> warms up again.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Shutdown problems and fuel selector valve |
I have an Airflow Performance system in my -4 and use an Andair fuel
selector to control the fuel flow. Although I do not shut down the engine
with the Andair valve, I do know that in the OFF position, it allows no
flow. For what it's worth, I have the purge valve option in my aircraft and
have had no problems for the 3 years I have been flying my plane.
Dean
RV-4
Bolton, MA
----Original Message Follows----
From: Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Shutdown problems and fuel selector valve
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 19:06:39 -0600
I have been having trouble shutting down my engine, the first case I
had was a slipping mixture cable but now the engine does not stop at
idle cut off and when the prop does stop it just starts turning the
opposite direction. so I finally removed the fuel control servo and I
am shipping it back to airflow performance. I spoke with the builder of
my airplane and he mentioned he had the same problem shutting down at
one point and he just would turn the fuel selector to off and when the
engine began to starve he would shutdown and the engine would quit.
so, I tried this approach before I removed the servo and no joy, the
engine would stumble but not quit. I pushed the plane in the hangar and
the fuel inlet hose and the outlet hose were both hanging from the
engine.... Hummmm, I turned the fuel selector to off and hit the boost
pump. Sure enough fuel was pouring out of the hose I let about a 1/2
gallon run out to make sure it was really pumping fuel from the
tanks...
My question is.... Is this normal? I would think that if you turn the
fuel selector to off then no fuel would go past the firewall.
Don at airflow wants to sell me a purge valve but I really do not want
to go that route because most people say it is really for hot starts
not shutting down. Plus, I like to find the root of a problem not just
spending more money to take care of a problem by added heavy expensive
stuff.
Any and all comment welcome!
Jason
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: heated pitot |
| From: | "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org> |
> I have a Cessna heated pitot that I bought a while back at a wrecker. It
> will be used in place of the Dynon heated Pitot that I hope will come into
> production soon. Dynon already produces the non heated model that I think
> will be upgradeable to heated type by adding the heater when it comes
> available.
> Dynons stated price for the unheated pitot is $199.00
> http://www.dynondevelopment.com/index.html
>
> I took a look at how Cessna approached the mounting issue. I built my own
> mounting bracket section for the Cessna unit. Rocket science does not apply
> here. I hand formed mine out of .032 sheet material and had a friend weld
> the parts. The outcome is quite satisfactory and should also fit the newer
> Dynon unit.
I too decided that I would use a Cessna pitot instead of shelling out $900.00
bucks for a pretty one. Getting the pitot to fit the Gretz mount is trivial.
There's basically a stair-step toward the top of the pitot that needs to be
lengthened about .125 inches or so. You'll also need to file down just a bit
of 'diameter' from the stair-step to make it work.
Here are some pictures:
http://rv.jpainter.org/?view=entry&date 04-10-20
And here's a shot of it temporarily mounted on the wing.
http://rv.jpainter.org/images/2004-12-18.401.jpeg
The only concern I have about this is the length of the mount. It seems
*really* long. Does anyone monitoring the list have any recommendations on
shortening the pitot? Is this a bad move that will lead to unpredictable
results?
Thanks,
Jamie
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk material |
I used the 3M anti slip stuff, which is made from rubber material. The down
side is it is about .040 thick and comes in 4" wide roll so you have to
double up. The good side is it will never wear out. The standard sand paper
type stuff, well I think it is no good. While working on the plane in the
summer I was getting in and out of the cockpit many times on a hot day and
the adhesive that holds the sand in place softened and came up.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Washington, DC RV Hanger. |
We have tickets to the Inauguration this Thur.
We want to fly in on Wed night and out Thur night.
Any suggestion on where to fly into given the TFRs?
Any chance I could get a hanger for the RV nearby?
ERic--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M |
Hi Joe,
I'm using the UBG. I'm not sure if its the same as you are asking about,
but it is a 2 inch bar graph (orange display) with 4 EGT's, 4 CHT's and OAT.
It does log data, but I have never used that feature. I had to use a separate
dimmer control (which came with it) which doesn't work real well (not much
range), because it is not compatible with my other lights, but that's not much
of a problem really. If you are like me and have a basic low-tech panel, I
think it is an OK way to go. Support has been good. I sent the original EGT
probes back to EI and got the quick response ones. Later I needed some more
terminals to shorten up the wiring, and EI sent them no charge. They were
very good to deal with.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying since July)
In a message dated 1/16/05 8:05:16 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
jconnell(at)rconnect.com writes:
Greetings,
I'm building an RV-9A with an Aerosport Power O-320
and a FP prop. I'm trying choose between a JPI EDM-700
vs a EI UBG-16-4M for the engine monitor. The price
through Chief Aircraft is almost a wash. Since all of the
aviation mags have both of them as advertisers, there is
no neutral party I can find to evaluate them. Either one would
be fine with me, but I'd like your insights...
Thanks...
Joe Connell, RV-9A, N95JJ, finishing
Stewartville, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: static ports |
In a message dated 1/17/05 12:52:31 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time, m
schrimmer(at)pacbell.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Schrimmer
Kevin's explanation for putting the T midpoint between
the two ports makes sense, yet the plans for the 7 and
9 have the T on one side. Since I'm just about to
install my pop rivet static system, does anyone have
any comments about which location is better?
Thanks,
Mark
Irvine, CA
Mark,
I put the T in the center with equal lengths of tubing on each side. It may
not matter because the holes in the static ports are much smaller than the
tubing which connects them to the T. Still, its easy to relocate the T to the
top of the bulkhead.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
Gary released the company name. As I said in the beginning there are many good
one in Canada, Aerosport being one of them.
Regarding Crossflow we have documented several similar business dealings that would
fall into a trend or pattern.
I believe a reputable company, like Aerosport, probably discloses any potential
"other" charges that might be incurred. Had I known I was going to get tagged
with an additional $3000, that would have been a deal breaker for sure.
The Canadian aviators that I have met have been great, especially the RV guys.
In summary, my point wasn't to condemn Canada in anyway but to make US buyers aware
that you can and will get slapped with some potentially heavy additional
costs.
If we were to survey the list I believe there would be a healthy volume of members
that didn't know.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Slayden <steve_slayden(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M |
This may sound a little odd, but I still like the looks of the
old-style round analog instrumets. I don't want a glass cockpit (well
most days). I wish the ACS CPU could drive analog instrument heads
while still providing the alarms and recording capabilities.
I'm inclined to buy all analog engine instruments and the UBG-16 and
fuel totalizer for the simple cosmetics of it. The same goes for the
primary flight instruments. The price difference between old style and
new is not that much. And for what you get with the new stuff (ACS,
Dynon), it's a better deal.
Although I've never flown behind an ACS or Dynon unit. Has anyone
wished they had thier old-style instruments and guages? Even a little?
Or does it depend on the plane. Keep the old-style instruments and
guages for the cubs and champs?
Slayden
RV8 Fuse
--- Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> > I'm building an RV-9A with an Aerosport Power O-320
> > and a FP prop. I'm trying choose between a JPI EDM-700
> > vs a EI UBG-16-4M for the engine monitor. The price
> > through Chief Aircraft is almost a wash. Since all of the
> > aviation mags have both of them as advertisers, there is
> > no neutral party I can find to evaluate them. Either one would
> > be fine with me, but I'd like your insights...
>
> You might want to consider one of the more comprehensive engine
> monitor
> systems. The Advanced Flight Systems ACS2002 (soon to be AF-2500) is
> the
> pick of the litter imho. Here's a comparison...
>
http://www.advanced-control-systems.com/MonitorComparisons/monitorscomparison.htm
>
> You may find that it ends up cheaper given the other instruments you
> don't
> have to buy.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-3, fuselage
> RV-8, sold
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Shutdown problems and fuel selector valve |
Jason,
Actually if you have an airflow performance you really should have the
purge/shutoff valve. The Airflow design keeps the mixture valve from
totally seating during shutdown. That way the valve won't get hammered.
Teh purge valve is not just for hot starting. It is also used for shutdown.
I just leave the mixture in whatever position and shut the engine down
with the purge valve. I also circulate the fuel before starting to get any
air bubbles out of the system, whether it is cold or hot. Works great. And
we have not had any problems at all with it.
Mike Robertson
>From: Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Shutdown problems and fuel selector valve
>Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 19:06:39 -0600
>
>
>I have been having trouble shutting down my engine, the first case I
>had was a slipping mixture cable but now the engine does not stop at
>idle cut off and when the prop does stop it just starts turning the
>opposite direction. so I finally removed the fuel control servo and I
>am shipping it back to airflow performance. I spoke with the builder of
>my airplane and he mentioned he had the same problem shutting down at
>one point and he just would turn the fuel selector to off and when the
>engine began to starve he would shutdown and the engine would quit.
>
>so, I tried this approach before I removed the servo and no joy, the
>engine would stumble but not quit. I pushed the plane in the hangar and
>the fuel inlet hose and the outlet hose were both hanging from the
>engine.... Hummmm, I turned the fuel selector to off and hit the boost
>pump. Sure enough fuel was pouring out of the hose I let about a 1/2
>gallon run out to make sure it was really pumping fuel from the
>tanks...
>
>My question is.... Is this normal? I would think that if you turn the
>fuel selector to off then no fuel would go past the firewall.
>
>Don at airflow wants to sell me a purge valve but I really do not want
>to go that route because most people say it is really for hot starts
>not shutting down. Plus, I like to find the root of a problem not just
>spending more money to take care of a problem by added heavy expensive
>stuff.
>
>Any and all comment welcome!
>
>Jason
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Large connector thru firewall |
Guys,
I'm afraid my LASAR brain will not fit in the very limited space on the
firewall of the RV-3B I'm building. The good news is that I have plenty of
space just aft of the firewall. In order to mount it aft of the firewall
I'll need to pass the two magneto connectors through the firewall. Looks
like I'll need a 1.5" hole to get them through. Once they are through they
are normal sized wire bundles. I'm scratching my head as to a method of
accomplishing this... the eyeball connectors use a 1.125" hole, those common
grommet w/ss shields only go up to 1.25". Any ideas for other methods?
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI |
UBG-16-4M
My 2$ (could not find the cent symbol) opinion is that how can you afford
not to know what is going on in your $20K plus engine? A engine monitor
will find problems before you do, allowing more time to hopefully land
safely. I have the VM-1000 and love it. Its about 9 instruments in one, and
saves large amounts of panel space. In cruise mode it can watch the engine
for you and let you know when anything changes more than ???? 5%. This is a
great function for the longer trips. I am not pushing the VM-1000, but I am
pushing a engine monitor, I think it is a must have with no good excuses
not to have one.
>
>This may sound a little odd, but I still like the looks of the
>old-style round analog instrumets. I don't want a glass cockpit (well
>most days). I wish the ACS CPU could drive analog instrument heads
>while still providing the alarms and recording capabilities.
>
>I'm inclined to buy all analog engine instruments and the UBG-16 and
>fuel totalizer for the simple cosmetics of it. The same goes for the
>primary flight instruments. The price difference between old style and
>new is not that much. And for what you get with the new stuff (ACS,
>Dynon), it's a better deal.
>
>Although I've never flown behind an ACS or Dynon unit. Has anyone
>wished they had thier old-style instruments and guages? Even a little?
>
>Or does it depend on the plane. Keep the old-style instruments and
>guages for the cubs and champs?
>
>Slayden
>RV8 Fuse
>
>--- Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> >
> > > I'm building an RV-9A with an Aerosport Power O-320
> > > and a FP prop. I'm trying choose between a JPI EDM-700
> > > vs a EI UBG-16-4M for the engine monitor. The price
> > > through Chief Aircraft is almost a wash. Since all of the
> > > aviation mags have both of them as advertisers, there is
> > > no neutral party I can find to evaluate them. Either one would
> > > be fine with me, but I'd like your insights...
> >
> > You might want to consider one of the more comprehensive engine
> > monitor
> > systems. The Advanced Flight Systems ACS2002 (soon to be AF-2500) is
> > the
> > pick of the litter imho. Here's a comparison...
> >
>http://www.advanced-control-systems.com/MonitorComparisons/monitorscomparison.htm
> >
> > You may find that it ends up cheaper given the other instruments you
> > don't
> > have to buy.
> >
> > Randy Lervold
> > RV-3, fuselage
> > RV-8, sold
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glaesers" <glaesers(at)wideopenwest.com> |
| Subject: | RE: heated pitot |
I found a used Cessna heated pitot on eBay for less than $150. There are
some listed there now (search on 'heated pitot').
Dennis Glaeser
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Large connector thru firewall |
If the leads are long enough, you could put them through the side of the
fuselage under one of the cowl cheek enxtensions, and not cut the holes in
your firewall. This is what I did for the coax cable for my LSI system,
even though I could have gone through the firewall. You may be able to find
some rubber grommets to fill a 1.5" hole. If not, you could fabricate a
removable two-piece patch out of aluminum to cover the large hole, but with
a smaller hole for the grommet. Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: RV-List: Large connector thru firewall
>
> Guys,
> I'm afraid my LASAR brain will not fit in the very limited space on the
> firewall of the RV-3B I'm building. The good news is that I have plenty of
> space just aft of the firewall. In order to mount it aft of the firewall
> I'll need to pass the two magneto connectors through the firewall. Looks
> like I'll need a 1.5" hole to get them through. Once they are through they
> are normal sized wire bundles. I'm scratching my head as to a method of
> accomplishing this... the eyeball connectors use a 1.125" hole, those
> common
> grommet w/ss shields only go up to 1.25". Any ideas for other methods?
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-3.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Large connector thru firewall |
> I'll need a 1.5" hole to get them through. Once they are
> through they are normal sized wire bundles.
Randy, can you make two SS sheet metal pieces which overlap? Hard to
describe with words, but imagine this: cut a circle of the SS (can get from
McMaster) about 2.25" in diameter, cut a hole in the middle large enough for
the wire-only grommet, then cut a slot just wide enough for the wire bundle,
from this smaller hole to an edge. The second piece would overlap the slot.
Done appropriately, it should mount up with two, maybe three screws.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 569 hours (supposed to get above zero tomorrow, finally)
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Try this link to ACS for heated pitot only for experimental use. Part @
10-01022 12 volt $398.00 still high but better than nothing and better than
$900. This is the L shaped variety. Have been told that you can find them
in aircraft junkyards for less than $100 but have had no luck.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/homepitot.php
If anyone knows a reason why this would be inappropriate, please holler as I
am planning on putting one in my 7.
Bill Schlatterer
7a QB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gar Pessel
Subject: RV-List: heated pitot
I had wanted to put a heated pitot in the 9A I am building. I saw the
letter from Gretz Aero in the archives, and was thinking of getting the
Gretz mounting kit and the GA1000 probe if it becomes available. I have
been unable to contact Gretz, either by phone or email. I do not want to
buy the $900 plus probe from Aircraft Spruce. Does anyone know of other
options, mounting kits, etc.
Gar Pessel Fairbanks, AK building on and happily flying a 6, once it warms
up again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: static ports |
Putting mine high center fuse to make them self draining as well. Low spot
is the static port. Someone else recommended this and I only assume that it
will work OK. Seems like it should.
Bill S
7a
Arkansas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Schrimmer
Subject: RV-List: Re: static ports
Kevin's explanation for putting the T midpoint between
the two ports makes sense, yet the plans for the 7 and
9 have the T on one side. Since I'm just about to
install my pop rivet static system, does anyone have
any comments about which location is better?
Thanks,
Mark
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark manda <mark2nite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Large connector thru firewall |
There were quite a few posts on this subject on one of
the groups a week ago. I like the eye balls but one
guy had picts of lightweight flanges and short pipe
made out of railing for the handicapped. i.e. shower
support rails. looked pretty good.
mark
p.s. now i know who to call if I need to figure out
where the six wires on the LASAR go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 windscreen for sale |
Posting for a friend. Van's RV8 windscreen for sale. Asking $50 plus postage.
Contact off list at: cloudchasers73768(at)hotmail.com
Jerry Calvert
N296JC RV6
Edmond Ok
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M |
I'm with you Steve. Very comfortable behind the old "Steam Gauges". These
young Bucks that enjoy the electrons flying around,
I don't understand. Some of the posts about technical things I just delete.
It's a bugger not being up with the play.
When I look at my old fashioned six stack, I know just what is going on. I
have however, gone with the ACS 2002 in my 7.
It is right up there in price, but it is quality, and monitors all the
engine functions. You will hear when your engine stops, but flying
your aircraft to a sucessful conclusion is the thing that matters.
Stan.
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 08:57:49
Subject: Re: RV-List: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M
This may sound a little odd, but I still like the looks of the
old-style round analog instrumets. I don't want a glass cockpit (well
most days). I wish the ACS CPU could drive analog instrument heads
while still providing the alarms and recording capabilities.
I'm inclined to buy all analog engine instruments and the UBG-16 and
fuel totalizer for the simple cosmetics of it. The same goes for the
primary flight instruments. The price difference between old style and
new is not that much. And for what you get with the new stuff (ACS,
Dynon), it's a better deal.
Although I've never flown behind an ACS or Dynon unit. Has anyone
wished they had thier old-style instruments and guages? Even a little?
Or does it depend on the plane. Keep the old-style instruments and
guages for the cubs and champs?
Slayden
RV8 Fuse
--- Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> > I'm building an RV-9A with an Aerosport Power O-320
> > and a FP prop. I'm trying choose between a JPI EDM-700
> > vs a EI UBG-16-4M for the engine monitor. The price
> > through Chief Aircraft is almost a wash. Since all of the
> > aviation mags have both of them as advertisers, there is
> > no neutral party I can find to evaluate them. Either one would
> > be fine with me, but I'd like your insights...
>
> You might want to consider one of the more comprehensive engine
> monitor
> systems. The Advanced Flight Systems ACS2002 (soon to be AF-2500) is
> the
> pick of the litter imho. Here's a comparison...
>
http://www.advanced-control-systems
com/MonitorComparisons/monitorscomparison.htm
>
> You may find that it ends up cheaper given the other instruments you
> don't
> have to buy.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-3, fuselage
> RV-8, sold
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)webkorner.com> |
| Subject: | Large connector thru firewall |
Randy, I had the same problem with my dual Lightspeed EI setup. I went to the
aircraft aisle at Home Depot and got a 1 1/2 inch aluminum electrical conduit
connector. It has slightly over 1 1/2 inch ID and is about 1/8 inch thick casting.
It has a threaded end with a large nut that will attach it to the firewall.
After routing all your wires, tubes, etc., pack it with RTV and wrap the
firewall end with firestop fabric and secure with two hose clamps. I am putting
nearly all of my firewall forward wires through this one hole.
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill Airpark, NC
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Large connector thru firewall
Guys,
I'm afraid my LASAR brain will not fit in the very limited space on the
firewall of the RV-3B I'm building. The good news is that I have plenty of
space just aft of the firewall. In order to mount it aft of the firewall
I'll need to pass the two magneto connectors through the firewall. Looks
like I'll need a 1.5" hole to get them through. Once they are through they
are normal sized wire bundles. I'm scratching my head as to a method of
accomplishing this... the eyeball connectors use a 1.125" hole, those common
grommet w/ss shields only go up to 1.25". Any ideas for other methods?
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Large connector thru firewall |
I would recommend using a bulkhead (firewall) connector. This is a little
more work to install, but is provides much easier removal for subsequent
maintenance/repair. Amphenol make a series of excellent bulkhead
connectors. These connectors have three basic parts - a connector mounted
to the firewall that accepts a plug from either side of firewall, a plug on
the engine side for the Lasar engine wiring, and a plug on the pilot side of
the firewall for the wires from the Lasar "brain". This technique is quite
common on the Lancair series of aircraft as well as many military aircraft.
Good Luck,
Dean
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: RV-List: Large connector thru firewall
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 11:42:42 -0800
Guys,
I'm afraid my LASAR brain will not fit in the very limited space on the
firewall of the RV-3B I'm building. The good news is that I have plenty of
space just aft of the firewall. In order to mount it aft of the firewall
I'll need to pass the two magneto connectors through the firewall. Looks
like I'll need a 1.5" hole to get them through. Once they are through they
are normal sized wire bundles. I'm scratching my head as to a method of
accomplishing this... the eyeball connectors use a 1.125" hole, those common
grommet w/ss shields only go up to 1.25". Any ideas for other methods?
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollins(at)visi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Orlando RV forced landing |
We checked out this story today with the Minneapolis FSDO. Here's what one
of our reporters sent me.
"The FAA says the hydraulic failure and the bullet hole are unrelated.
Here's another interesting bit: the hole is on the top the wing. They
speculate someone fired a deer rifle in the air and the bullet struck the
plane at "low energy" on the way down."
"Rest of the investigation is being turned over to FBI (haven't heard back
from them yet)."
Regards,
Bob Collins
St. Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon ramblings & Electronic HSI |
All,
I have flown the latest and greatest version of the D-10 software for about
20 hours or so and I now have the confidence in this version to rip out my
vacuum system. I have been holding back because I could have easily pulled
out the Dynon and replaced it with my vacuum gyro in moments. But with 18
months of experience and now that we have a good stable software package I
am ready to make the leap into the land of no vacuum pump. Great Work
Guys!!!!!
That means the DG will go as well. I won't miss it because I have not even
been setting it lately because I don't use it at all.
Now for what I want. I want Dynon to build an HSI. Not a big fancy one
with moving maps and waypoint displays and all that, just a simple HSI that
encorporates GPS switching and ennunciator functions, Approach, enroute and
OBS modes for GPS. An RMI feature would be nice also but not essential so
you could display both VOR and GPS info simaltaneously. Also a feature that
would switch the autopilot driver. VOR, GPS-NAV, GPS Track or Heading bug.
I've seen the Blue Mountain product is coming, and maybe that is the answer,
but I really like the form factor, the customer service, and the display of
the Dynon. I am not sure the folks at Dynon understand how many people
would buy an HSI. Most home builts do not have HSI's and several pilots have
never flown with one, but it is not because they would not love one if they
used it, just because the trainers they learned in did not have one.
This would replace a DG, a VOR Head, a GPS annunciator, any Autopilot
switch gear, and a backup display for the D-10 If they could do this at the
$2000 price point, they would sell like cordwood.
So my objective it make them understand that this would be a big market.
(are you listening Doug Medema?) Everybody pile on.
Tailwinds,
Doug "I wanna a HSI" Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length |
If you haven't bought the property yet, one consideration for a longer strip
might be whether or not you want other pilots to land at your field. Of
course, a short field could also screen out some of the pilots you may not
want to visit you. Does your mother-in-law fly an RV? :)
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com [mailto:Oldsfolks(at)aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length
Follow Kevins advice and as someone else said , practice on a longer field
to be sure you can do the landing the SAME way every time.
I practiced on an airport with 800' to the turnoff , and when I could stop
by the turn-off , I practiced some more. I fly from our 1100' grass strip
with 150 HP/ wood prop RV-4 - solo only. I think it would get my wife and
me
out BUT those odds aren't good enough to put us at risk.
Be safe and fly happy.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon ramblings & Electronic HSI |
Doug,
Sounds a lot like the BMA Lite . . . I agree with you . . . and the BMA
product is not totally proven at this point . . . in fact the G3 version
hasn't shipped yet as far as I know. It does however show a lot of promise
with the ultimate goal is a "TSO'd version" of the Lite at around $3000 with
GPS and nav head function built in, if it works will be one of the best
bargains out there!
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon ramblings & Electronic HSI
>
> All,
>
> I have flown the latest and greatest version of the D-10 software for
about
> 20 hours or so and I now have the confidence in this version to rip out my
> vacuum system. I have been holding back because I could have easily
pulled
> out the Dynon and replaced it with my vacuum gyro in moments. But with 18
> months of experience and now that we have a good stable software package I
> am ready to make the leap into the land of no vacuum pump. Great Work
> Guys!!!!!
>
> That means the DG will go as well. I won't miss it because I have not
even
> been setting it lately because I don't use it at all.
>
> Now for what I want. I want Dynon to build an HSI. Not a big fancy one
> with moving maps and waypoint displays and all that, just a simple HSI
that
> encorporates GPS switching and ennunciator functions, Approach, enroute
and
> OBS modes for GPS. An RMI feature would be nice also but not essential
so
> you could display both VOR and GPS info simaltaneously. Also a feature
that
> would switch the autopilot driver. VOR, GPS-NAV, GPS Track or Heading
bug.
>
> I've seen the Blue Mountain product is coming, and maybe that is the
answer,
> but I really like the form factor, the customer service, and the display
of
> the Dynon. I am not sure the folks at Dynon understand how many people
> would buy an HSI. Most home builts do not have HSI's and several pilots
have
> never flown with one, but it is not because they would not love one if
they
> used it, just because the trainers they learned in did not have one.
>
> This would replace a DG, a VOR Head, a GPS annunciator, any Autopilot
> switch gear, and a backup display for the D-10 If they could do this at
the
> $2000 price point, they would sell like cordwood.
>
> So my objective it make them understand that this would be a big market.
> (are you listening Doug Medema?) Everybody pile on.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug "I wanna a HSI" Rozendaal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Minimum Realistic Field Length |
Scott,
If you haven't bought the property yet, one consideration for a longer strip
might be whether or not you want other pilots to land at your field. Of
course, a short field could also screen out some of the pilots you may not
want to visit you. Does your mother-in-law fly an RV? :)
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com [mailto:tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com]
Subject: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home (building
withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would
be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe
runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to
hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A,
O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never
heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a
1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if
things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Orlando RV forced landing |
>>>"The FAA says the hydraulic failure and the bullet hole are unrelated.
Here's another interesting bit: the hole is on the top the wing. They
speculate someone fired a deer rifle in the air and the bullet struck the
plane at "low energy" on the way down."
I'm not one for conspiracy theories but realy what are the chances of
someone first being stupid enough to fire a gun near an airport. Second
having that bullet go up and come down striking this fellows plane. The
fellow not seeing the hole on his walk around or seeing it and deciding to
fly with the hole anyways. Then just coincedently has an unrelated failure
that causes a forced landing.
This is under the assumption that the bullet hole happened while the plane
was on the ground. Don't get me started on the odds of a "random" bullet
going up then coming down on the top surface of a moving plane all in the
same flight that the fellow has an unrelated failure.
Either this guy is the most unlucky fellow in the world or someone isn't
giving all the facts.
If this fellow indeed has a low velocity bullet hole impact on the top
surface of his wing, then I would think the more likely possibility was that
some yahoo took a shoot at him while he was doing aerobatics. By the time
the bullet reached the plane at altitude it slowed down to the point of "low
velocity"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Orlando RV forced landing |
Looks like 2 RV-6's in the incident report over the weekend. Get the N
number and do a Google search to find the owner.
http://www.faa.gov/avr/aai/A_0118_N.txt
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
Bill,
After looking for a reasonably priced heated pitot for over a year, I
settled on this one too. Jon Johansson is making these in AU....
First thing I did was break it while mounting it on my plane! It turns out
that the inner tube is plain old 3030 thin wall, (soft) alum threaded on
each end with a 1/4" - 28 die, set for an oversized thread. (NOT a pipe
thread). I'm not sure how well this would have held up to vibration over the
long run... The inner (soft) tube broke when I bumped it after it was
mounted onto the wing.
After finding out Jon wanted almost $100 for a simple 6" threaded tube, I
made my own out of THICK walled 2020-T3 alum tube (Total cost, including the
die & die handle, was under $50!).
I am still using this modified part, but could have just as easily made
my own from a block of alum, for a lot less money. I'm very surprised that
nobody else is offering a similar unit. The heater element is a standard
Cessna part (Search the RV-List for a part number). the rest is different
size tubing (available from spruce), a milled "Bullet" node piece, and a
Cessna P/N heater element.
Also, in hindsight, once you have the basic "L" shaped part of any one of
the certified units already out there, you could easily repair/modify it to
be heated by purchasing the basic components (Tubing & heater element) and
shaping your own nose piece. this would probably be the least expensive
route....
I'm using Gretz's mounting kit....
=====================================
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Try this link to ACS for heated pitot only for experimental use. Part
@
10-01022 12 volt $398.00 still high but better than nothing and
better than
$900. This is the L shaped variety. Have been told that you can find
them
in aircraft junkyards for less than $100 but have had no luck.
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/homepitot.php>
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/homepitot.php
If anyone knows a reason why this would be inappropriate, please
holler as I
am planning on putting one in my 7.
Bill Schlatterer
7a QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Orlando RV forced landing N654PJ |
In a message dated 1/18/05 1:21:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
> >
>
> Looks like 2 RV-6's in the incident report over the weekend. Get the N
> number and do a Google search to find the owner.
>
> http://www.faa.gov/avr/aai/A_0118_N.txt
>
You know......I was standing on the flight line when a RV-6 was leaving LAL
at the fly-in and made the comment 3 times that I smelled gas.......MO-gas.
The owner of the leaving RV-6 said he had just stuck the tanks and that
must be it...I asked if he was running car gas and he said yes.
I can not tell you who he was or what the tail number was
but I think he had his dog and wife with him.......sure hope this was not the
plane that never made the runway and if it was he had a leak and should be
glad
there was no fire.
The owner listed to the RV 6 ....N654PJ is Paul Pajak.
RV-4
RV-8 QB....wings
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL.
My Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Orlando RV forced landing |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Kevin wrote...
Don't get me started on the odds of a "random" bullet
going up then coming down on the top surface of a moving plane all in the
same flight that the fellow has an unrelated failure.
From what's been described so far, I'd say the odds were 100%.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Passing fire codes for hangar homes |
HELP. I purchased a lot at an airpark several months ago and just found out the
county has adopted a new fire code restricting the size of the hangar to 2000
sq ft. I had planned on a 3000. Im wondering if anyone has dealt with this
and knows of a way around it. I believe its a fire code issue so maybe a fire
wall or sprinkler system would fit the bill. One of the subdivision requirements
is that the hangar must be attached to the house.
tia
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Passing fire codes for hangar homes |
>>>HELP. I purchased a lot at an airpark several months ago and just found
>>>out the county has adopted a new fire code restricting the size of the
>>>hangar to 2000 sq ft. I had planned on a 3000. Im wondering if anyone
>>>has dealt with this and knows of a way around it. I believe its a fire
>>>code issue so maybe a fire wall or sprinkler system would fit the bill.
>>>One of the subdivision requirements is that the hangar must be attached
>>>to the house.
Don't call it a hanger, Call it a 4 car garage with a large single opening
door. . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Orlando RV forced landing |
>>Kevin wrote...
>>Don't get me started on the odds of a "random" bullet
going up then coming down on the top surface of a moving plane all in the
same flight that the fellow has an unrelated failure.
>>From what's been described so far, I'd say the odds were 100%.
>>Chuck
Hmm another possibility, someone shot directly at the cockpit and the prop
struck the bullet deflecting it down onto the top of the wing. . .
Anyways all seems way to weird to me. . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Edmonton Alberta |
I'm up in Yellowknife at the moment and I'm coming down to Edmonton, Alberta
for my once in 6 month visit. I'll only be in town this weekend Friday
Morning 21st - Sunday 23rd.
I'm still in the deciding stage and have yet to actually see a live project.
I would love to meet any RV builders and see their works in progress.
I would also love to get up for a flight and would be more than happy to pay
for a ride along in any RV, weather and time permitting.
So if you are in or around the Edmonton area and are in the process of
building or have a flying RV and have some time to spare this weekend please
send me an E-mail to kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Orlando RV forced landing |
Highly inprobable random incidents do occur. If I didn't personally know the woman
in the following story, I would have thought "no way".
A few years ago, in my former home town of Evansville, Indiana, a woman who lives
next door to my former residence, went outside with her two dogs near midnight
on New Years Eve. As she bent over to pick up one of the dogs, a bullet hit
her in the back of her neck. No rounds fired in the neighborhood. Doctors
and police officers surmise from the angle of the impact and the relatively shallow
penetration that a stray bullet, fired into the air by some moron, hit
her on it's fall to earth.
She was knocked down and was hospitalized, but has recovered.
I, too, have often wondered about stray rounds fired in the middle east.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Gauthier" <TGauthier(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Passing fire codes for hangar homes |
The first thing you need to find out is "What code"? Don't be afraid to
ask. Are they using the "International Fire Code" or "NFPA", you also
need to know what version. 2000 or the 2003 code. What you are talking
about sounds like a local code or a subdivision or property rule. Ask
for help by getting a copy of the section they are referencing. Explain
that you are a citizen and not a builder who will know how to look up
the code.
Many of the larger hangers can get around a problem by adding a
sprinkler system, however that may cost you more than you have planned.
I would suggest going right to the top guy. Go knock on the Fire
Marshals door and talk to him. I think that you will find that many
things can be resolved if you talk it over. Go see him in person.
I can't tell you how many times I have seen things get changed after
someone has been very involved finding out the real code. Not a rule
that someone has made. We call them shirt pocket rules and they change
all the time. If it is not in the code, you will have a strong case.
Sometimes an inspector will tell you something that he has been doing
for years or he believes to be true only to find out it is not in the
code. The inspector may not back down, but his boss has the authority
to over rule. Go see the Fire Marshal, when you see him you can tell
him that you are just trying to get a better understanding. Note: In
some jurisdictions the "Building Director" may be the authority so you
may also have to talk to him. I would start with the Fire Marshal.
Good luck,
Ted Gauthier, RV-6
Fire Marshal, and DAR
West Bloomfield Michigan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Williams
Subject: RE: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes
>>>HELP. I purchased a lot at an airpark several months ago and just
found
>>>out the county has adopted a new fire code restricting the size of
the
>>>hangar to 2000 sq ft. I had planned on a 3000. Im wondering if
anyone
>>>has dealt with this and knows of a way around it. I believe its a
fire
>>>code issue so maybe a fire wall or sprinkler system would fit the
bill.
>>>One of the subdivision requirements is that the hangar must be
attached
>>>to the house.
Don't call it a hanger, Call it a 4 car garage with a large single
opening
door. . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | new years celebration |
This past new years, a man was killed by a bullet fired into the air.
Posice were called and confiscated the weapon .... cops put two and two
together (imagine that!) and arrested the celebrant. Orlando FL, I think
Linn
jim & terri truitt wrote:
>
>Highly inprobable random incidents do occur. If I didn't personally know the
woman in the following story, I would have thought "no way".
>A few years ago, in my former home town of Evansville, Indiana, a woman who lives
next door to my former residence, went outside with her two dogs near midnight
on New Years Eve. As she bent over to pick up one of the dogs, a bullet
hit her in the back of her neck. No rounds fired in the neighborhood. Doctors
and police officers surmise from the angle of the impact and the relatively
shallow penetration that a stray bullet, fired into the air by some moron, hit
her on it's fall to earth.
>She was knocked down and was hospitalized, but has recovered.
>I, too, have often wondered about stray rounds fired in the middle east.
>
>
>
>
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Passing fire codes for hangar homes |
You will need a firewall on the house side. You might put a firewall between
to sides of the hanger or use a firewall to separate the work area from the
plane storage area. Or have a hangar on each side of the house.
But I would talk to the county building department before you set up a
design and ask them for their input. They will have to approve your design
before you build anyway.
Anything that I might write may not meet with their approval.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes
>
> >>>HELP. I purchased a lot at an airpark several months ago and just
found
> >>>out the county has adopted a new fire code restricting the size of the
> >>>hangar to 2000 sq ft. I had planned on a 3000. Im wondering if anyone
> >>>has dealt with this and knows of a way around it. I believe its a fire
> >>>code issue so maybe a fire wall or sprinkler system would fit the bill.
> >>>One of the subdivision requirements is that the hangar must be attached
> >>>to the house.
>
>
> Don't call it a hanger, Call it a 4 car garage with a large single opening
> door. . . .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Orlando RV forced landing |
>Wow, for what it's worth, when I was staying with a friend in Arizona
>learning to fly, a teenage girl was hit in the head while she was
>swinging in her back yard with her parents. It killed her.
Her name was Shannon.
There is now a law in AZ called "Shannon's Law"
that makes random firing into the air a felony
Go figure,,,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin iQue 3600a |
Hey Gang!
Garmin has entered the palm top gps flight information arena with this
product.
http://www.garmin.com/products/iQue3600a
Ideas and Opinions please
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Orlando RV forced landing |
>I'm not one for conspiracy theories but realy what are the chances of
>someone first being stupid enough to fire a gun near an airport.
Come on out to Oakdale, Ca. I'll introduce you to some of the local
hunters. :-) They do fire their guns near the airport and we politely
ask them to leave. No planes have been shot down thus far. I'll keep
my fingers crossed.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
www.rivetbangers.com
Now with email!!
How you want it,
When you want it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <RV-6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin iQue 3600a |
I think this really blows.
I just bought an iQue 3600 for my car and now they come out with this.
I should have waited a little longer.
It works great in the car.
And it's small enough you can use when you're walking from the airport
trying to find that $100 hamburger.
Or put it in the rental car with the street level maps.
You can plug the mp3 player into the intercom for in-flight music.
The iQue3600a has more internal memory but you will still probably want
an expansion card.
Two thumbs up.
>
Hey Gang!
Garmin has entered the palm top gps flight information arena with this
product.
http://www.garmin.com/products/iQue3600a
Ideas and Opinions please
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Passing fire codes for hangar homes |
The problem is that they are calling it a garage, which dictates the max sq
ftage.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes
>
>>>>HELP. I purchased a lot at an airpark several months ago and just found
>>>>out the county has adopted a new fire code restricting the size of the
>>>>hangar to 2000 sq ft. I had planned on a 3000. Im wondering if anyone
>>>>has dealt with this and knows of a way around it. I believe its a fire
>>>>code issue so maybe a fire wall or sprinkler system would fit the bill.
>>>>One of the subdivision requirements is that the hangar must be attached
>>>>to the house.
>
>
> Don't call it a hanger, Call it a 4 car garage with a large single opening
> door. . . .
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin iQue 3600a |
Jim Jewell wrote:
>Garmin has entered the palm top gps flight information arena with this
>product.
>http://www.garmin.com/products/iQue3600a
>
>
Just my opinion, I may be wrong...
I think for the money, the Garmin 96C is a better deal, and $400
cheaper. $699US instead of $1099US (list prices).
http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap96c/
Or, if the larger screen is a must, the Garmin 196, despite having a
monochrome screen, is an excellent unit at $799US (list).
http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap196/
People make a big deal about colour, but I think the screen on my old
Garmin GPSIII was excellent, as it was simple, *very* high contrast, and
very readible in all lighting conditions.
Personally, I bought a Garmin 76CS (still comparing list prices, $549US,
but I paid $649CDN).
http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap76cs/
The 76CS had a couple of interesting features that I found worthwhile
(copied from the Garmin website):
- Barometric sensor with automatic pressure trend recording
- Elevation computer provides current elevation, ascent/descent rate,
minimum/ maximum elevation, total ascent and descent, average and
maximum ascent and descent rate (not mentioned on the website is "glide
ratio to destination").
The first is useful for predicting upcoming weather trends, and the
second neglects to mention the most interesting feature, which is "glide
ratio to destination". Your engine has quit, and you're now deadstick.
You hit "nearest airport" on the GPS and get distance, bearing, etc.
All good, right? How do you know if you can make it? With the 76CS, if
you know your airplane's best glide ratio, you know instantly if that
airport is an option.
However, the 76CS is *NOT* an aviation GPS, and as such does not have an
aviation database. I fly with a hardcopy of the CFS (Canada Flight
Supplement), which gives me airport info like runways, frequencies,
etc. In addition, I have a database of waypoints of Canadian airports
that I keep up-to-date myself as data changes, that I can upload to the
GPS. The GPS gives me the navigational aids, I take care of looking out
for airspace and finding frequencies on my own. I find this to be an
ideal (and economical) arrangement.
If Garmin made the 96 model with a barometric altimeter included, I
would have considered it very seriously, but right now, for me, the 76CS
does what I want.
Hope this helps!
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Orlando RV forced landing |
Yeah, stupidity knows no bounds, either by geography or interest group. The
guy in the hangar behind me (a pilot and hangar owner) has been seen laying
on his back, firing his gun straight up in the air ON THE AIRPORT. Go
figure.
Greg
>
> >I'm not one for conspiracy theories but realy what are the
> chances of
>
> >someone first being stupid enough to fire a gun near an airport.
>
> Come on out to Oakdale, Ca. I'll introduce you to some of
> the local hunters. :-) They do fire their guns near the
> airport and we politely ask them to leave. No planes have
> been shot down thus far. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Orlando RV forced landing |
re: new years' eve random shooting-
I recall reading in a book about WW2 that, on Okinawa, about 50-75
soldiers were shot to death on V-J day, from troops celebrating by firing
their weapons.
The person who related the story spent the night in his foxhole with his
helmet on, while spent rounds dropped all around him.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim & terri truitt" <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Orlando RV forced landing
>
> Highly inprobable random incidents do occur. If I didn't personally know
> the woman in the following story, I would have thought "no way".
> A few years ago, in my former home town of Evansville, Indiana, a woman
> who lives next door to my former residence, went outside with her two dogs
> near midnight on New Years Eve. As she bent over to pick up one of the
> dogs, a bullet hit her in the back of her neck. No rounds fired in the
> neighborhood. Doctors and police officers surmise from the angle of the
> impact and the relatively shallow penetration that a stray bullet, fired
> into the air by some moron, hit her on it's fall to earth.
> She was knocked down and was hospitalized, but has recovered.
> I, too, have often wondered about stray rounds fired in the middle east.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Cotnoir" <guy_cotnoir(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Suspicious Aircraft Debris Pictures |
Hello everyone,
I would like, first and foremost, to apologize in advance for my off topic
post since it won't be about RV airplane building techniques.
A friend of mine showed me some pictures of a debris found at an airplane
crash site. As soon as I saw the pictures, I could not believe that this was
an actual airplane crash debris. You can see the pictures of the debris in
those two links below:
http://renovation.pentagon.mil/Phoenix/9-11-2001/a26-DSC_0446-1.jpg
http://t2news.navy.m7z.net/management/photodb/photos/010911-N-6157F-001.jpg
(it's the same part with different angles, lighting and lenses)
I know that most of you are very familiar with aircraft metals and aircraft
riveting techniques. I also know that few of you might even have worked on
Boeings a few times so I ask you to please look carefully at the two
pictures above and tell me if you think it is possible for an aircraft
component to be detached in a crash and still leaving the rivet locations as
seen relatively undamaged.
I mean, I think that a part pulled away from it's rivets would be severely
damaged (dimpled, torn or bruised) around the areas were rivets once were
Please look at it and tell me what you think, I know you will understand
what I mean the second you look closely at the pictures.
So I would like to know if you think this is possibly a part torn away from
a crashed airplane or if you think it might be something else.
I know this is not the in the subject theme of this forum and I understand
that answers to my question might have some political implications so please
contact me off list if you prefer at guy_cotnoir(at)msn.com
Thanx,
Guy Cotnoir
Toronto, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin iQue 3600a |
If it had WIFI, it would be a deal. Problem is that PDA's nowadays are much
more useful with WIFI since airports, resturaunts, etc are offering wireless
internet connections.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob Prior
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin iQue 3600a
Jim Jewell wrote:
>Garmin has entered the palm top gps flight information arena with this
>product.
>http://www.garmin.com/products/iQue3600a
>
>
Just my opinion, I may be wrong...
I think for the money, the Garmin 96C is a better deal, and $400
cheaper. $699US instead of $1099US (list prices).
http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap96c/
Or, if the larger screen is a must, the Garmin 196, despite having a
monochrome screen, is an excellent unit at $799US (list).
http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap196/
People make a big deal about colour, but I think the screen on my old
Garmin GPSIII was excellent, as it was simple, *very* high contrast, and
very readible in all lighting conditions.
Personally, I bought a Garmin 76CS (still comparing list prices, $549US,
but I paid $649CDN).
http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap76cs/
The 76CS had a couple of interesting features that I found worthwhile
(copied from the Garmin website):
- Barometric sensor with automatic pressure trend recording
- Elevation computer provides current elevation, ascent/descent rate,
minimum/ maximum elevation, total ascent and descent, average and
maximum ascent and descent rate (not mentioned on the website is "glide
ratio to destination").
The first is useful for predicting upcoming weather trends, and the
second neglects to mention the most interesting feature, which is "glide
ratio to destination". Your engine has quit, and you're now deadstick.
You hit "nearest airport" on the GPS and get distance, bearing, etc.
All good, right? How do you know if you can make it? With the 76CS, if
you know your airplane's best glide ratio, you know instantly if that
airport is an option.
However, the 76CS is *NOT* an aviation GPS, and as such does not have an
aviation database. I fly with a hardcopy of the CFS (Canada Flight
Supplement), which gives me airport info like runways, frequencies,
etc. In addition, I have a database of waypoints of Canadian airports
that I keep up-to-date myself as data changes, that I can upload to the
GPS. The GPS gives me the navigational aids, I take care of looking out
for airspace and finding frequencies on my own. I find this to be an
ideal (and economical) arrangement.
If Garmin made the 96 model with a barometric altimeter included, I
would have considered it very seriously, but right now, for me, the 76CS
does what I want.
Hope this helps!
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Couvillon" <wcouv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Suspicious Aircraft Debris Pictures |
You're right, that certainly is off topic for an RV forum. I am sure that there
is some sort of conspiracy theory chat room out there that may be a bit more
receptive. As for the particular piece in question, who knows how it came to
be in such a condition with the rivet holes in tact...I am thinking maybe it
had something to do with the fact that plane it was attached to was flown in to
some of the thickest concrete walls ever made at speeds approaching 600 mph!
I was there when this happened...I saw the plane and the gaping hole it left...I
saw the injured and dying as they fled from the pentagon...I personally saw
the devastation this caused and I could not be more offended by the extremists
who not only perpetrated this incident, but who now question whether or not
this was one big government plot to fool the world. I apologize if this post
is too pointed, as an RV builder I am sorry if you are offended. I just wanted
to let you know that there were some people (yes even RV builders out here)
who lived through this and don't appreciate where you were going with this post.
Just my 2 cents,
Will
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Passing fire codes for hangar homes |
To Jeff,
First, who are "they"
Secondly, have whomever is drawing up your plans to label it "HANGAR"
TBC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes
>
> The problem is that they are calling it a garage, which dictates the max
> sq
> ftage.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes
>
>
>>
>>>>>HELP. I purchased a lot at an airpark several months ago and just
>>>>>found
>>>>>out the county has adopted a new fire code restricting the size of the
>>>>>hangar to 2000 sq ft. I had planned on a 3000. Im wondering if anyone
>>>>>has dealt with this and knows of a way around it. I believe its a fire
>>>>>code issue so maybe a fire wall or sprinkler system would fit the bill.
>>>>>One of the subdivision requirements is that the hangar must be attached
>>>>>to the house.
>>
>>
>> Don't call it a hanger, Call it a 4 car garage with a large single
>> opening
>> door. . . .
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Suspicious Aircraft Debris Pictures |
Guy Cotnoir wrote:
> tell me if you think it is possible for an aircraft
> component to be detached in a crash and still leaving the rivet locations
> as
> seen relatively undamaged.
It MUST be, the photo proves it. The crash happened, and there lies that
part with intact rivets. If that part was from the nose cone I would say
impossible, however, if it's from any aft area or some part that got scraped
off along the ground as it came in I could logically see it sitting there
with intact rivets. I don't see your point AT ALL.
TBC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Suspicious Aircraft Debris Pictures |
Guy,
That most assuredly could be aircraft debris. In all the aircraft accidents
I have seen it still amazes me what I will find destroyed and what I will
find relatively intact.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Guy Cotnoir" <guy_cotnoir(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Suspicious Aircraft Debris Pictures
>Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2005 07:59:51 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
>
>
>Hello everyone,
>I would like, first and foremost, to apologize in advance for my off topic
>post since it won't be about RV airplane building techniques.
>
>A friend of mine showed me some pictures of a debris found at an airplane
>crash site. As soon as I saw the pictures, I could not believe that this
>was
>an actual airplane crash debris. You can see the pictures of the debris in
>those two links below:
>
>http://renovation.pentagon.mil/Phoenix/9-11-2001/a26-DSC_0446-1.jpg
>http://t2news.navy.m7z.net/management/photodb/photos/010911-N-6157F-001.jpg
>(it's the same part with different angles, lighting and lenses)
>
>I know that most of you are very familiar with aircraft metals and aircraft
>riveting techniques. I also know that few of you might even have worked on
>Boeings a few times so I ask you to please look carefully at the two
>pictures above and tell me if you think it is possible for an aircraft
>component to be detached in a crash and still leaving the rivet locations
>as
>seen relatively undamaged.
>
>I mean, I think that a part pulled away from it's rivets would be severely
>damaged (dimpled, torn or bruised) around the areas were rivets once were
>Please look at it and tell me what you think, I know you will understand
>what I mean the second you look closely at the pictures.
>
>So I would like to know if you think this is possibly a part torn away from
>a crashed airplane or if you think it might be something else.
>
>I know this is not the in the subject theme of this forum and I understand
>that answers to my question might have some political implications so
>please
>contact me off list if you prefer at guy_cotnoir(at)msn.com
>
>Thanx,
>Guy Cotnoir
>Toronto, Canada
>
>
January 11, 2005 - January 19, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-qj