RV-Archive.digest.vol-qn

February 19, 2005 - February 28, 2005



      >
      >Hello Ross;
      >
      >Thank you for your reply. I had a suspicion that the suction side was not a
      >good idea. I do not intend to use the inverted system on the RV8. I have
      >sold the Acrosport II and the inverted system goes with that airplane. Any
      >other ideas are appreciated. What about in line with the oil cooler? I like
      >the idea of a remote filter simply because it is cleaner to change the oil.
      >I can locate the filter where it would be easy to drain without getting oil
      >all over the back of the engine.
      >
      >Bud Silvers
      >
      >-----Original Message-----
      >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
      >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross S
      >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
      >Subject: RE: RV-List: oil filter
      >
      >
      >Hi Bud,
      >
      >It is bad news to put a filter on the suction side of any pump, as it can
      >cause it to cavitate, and there goes your oil pressure.  Also, you won't
      >have filtration when you are inverted with that setup.
      >
      >-Ross
      >RV-7
      >www.experimentalair.com
      >
      >
      > >From: <flynlow(at)usaviator.net>
      > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
      > >To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" 
      > >Subject: RV-List: oil filter
      > >Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 19:08:16 -0700
      > >
      > >
      > >Hello all;
      > >
      > >I am going to use an IO-360-A1A in an RV8. The engine was formerly in an
      > >Acrosport II. When in the Acrosport it had an inverted oil system. Here
      >is
      > >a
      > >link to some pictures which explain this better than I can here:
      > >http://www.usaviator.net/inverted_oil.htm For my question I am referring
      >to
      > >fittings D and E in the second picture. This system took oil from the
      >sump
      > >and went to the inverted system before it went to the oil pump. There is
      >a
      > >special fitting welded to the sump where the oil goes from the inverted
      > >system back to the pump, then of course through the engine. Currently I
      > >have
      > >these two fittings (D and E) looped together. What I am wondering is; If
      > >instead of looping them together can I run one line (from E) to a remote
      > >oil
      > >filter and another line from the said remote filter back to (D) the pump.
      > >Normally oil going through a filter is under pressure, this oil would be
      > >under a vacuum since it would be located before the pump. Would this be a
      > >problem? Does anyone know? Would you care to make any suggestions
      >regarding
      > >this set up or alternatives to me? What about using the oil cooler lines
      > >and
      > >putting a filter in line there?
      > >
      > >Your kind attention to this is greatly appreciated.
      > >
      > >With kindest personal regards, to all, I shall remain,
      > >
      > >Sincerely,
      > >
      > >Bud Silvers
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2005
From: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter
Hey there Bud, I have an RV-4 which is really tight for changing the oil filter. It used to be a messy job until I made a tool that another RV-List'er recommended. You take an ordinary C clamp that has an opening that's wide enough to fit around your oil filter. Get a piece of rubber tubing that's long enough to reach from your C clamp to your oil bucket. Get a steel roll pin that's just about big enough to fit in your rubber tubing but not so big that it's wider than your C clamp! Now you grind one end of that roll pin to make a point, you're trying to make a can opener here so make it sharp. Next drill a hole in the flat side of the stationary jaw of your C clamp that's just big enough that the roll pin will fit if you drive it with a hammer. Drive the roll pin in with the pointy end toward the jackscrew on the opposite jaw of the C clamp. Put your rubber tubing on the tail of the roll pin and secure it with a hose clamp. Now, clamp that baby around your oil filter with the tubing and pointy roll pin at the bottom of the oil filter, put your bucket under your hose, and start turning the screw on the C clamp. The pointy roll pin will puncture the oil filter and drain the oil into your bucket. You may still get a drip or two but it won't be the big mess you would have had. I also used a little RTV around the roll pin as a seal to keep oil from seeping out past the roll pin while it is draining through the tubing. Geez that was wordy. I hope it makes sense. flynlow(at)usaviator.net wrote: > >Hello Ross; > >Thank you for your reply. I had a suspicion that the suction side was not a >good idea. I do not intend to use the inverted system on the RV8. I have >sold the Acrosport II and the inverted system goes with that airplane. Any >other ideas are appreciated. What about in line with the oil cooler? I like >the idea of a remote filter simply because it is cleaner to change the oil. >I can locate the filter where it would be easy to drain without getting oil >all over the back of the engine. > >Bud Silvers > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carlrayw(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 2005
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 02/18/05
In a message dated 2/19/2005 2:59:43 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: Subject: Re: RV-List: Expermental Inspections I asked the inspector of my past EAA Club twice to inspect my plane with him never showing up. Dropped out of the club now. No help to me.....Carl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doyce Graham" <dgraham(at)CLEMSON.EDU>
Subject: Simpson Tiedowns
Date: Feb 19, 2005
I reached Randy at this email address in mid 2004. airtime(at)proaxis.com Very satisfied with his product and his customer service. Doyce Graham From: Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Titanium Tie downs (Randy Simpson) clamav-milter version 0.80j on opie.wvnet.edu I don't have his number, but I ordered and paid for mine last March and have not received them. I think he is out of business, no response to my latest inquiry. Bob RV6 NightFighter >Does any one on the list know how I can reach >Randy Simpson Phone number..Ordered tie downs >month ago and not able to get in touch with him!! > > Thanks > John McMahon (RV6 Painting) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2005
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: oil filter
flynlow(at)usaviator.net wrote: > >Ross; > >Thank you very much for the answer and for the link also. I will check with >the folks you suggested. The guy who bought the Acrosport is supposed to >come this weekend to pick it up. He wanted to switch oil sumps so he could >have the one with the necessary welded fitting. I am reluctant to do that as >I may some day decide to build my own inverted system. There really isn't >much to it since I already have the engine modification and the fittings. > >The Acrosport has been a mess from day one, thus my decision to build an RV8 >with the assistance of a friend. The main thing I am looking for is to build >an airplane that is low and easy maintenance. I had hoped to be able to >change the oil without removing the cowling and without getting anything too >dirty. > >Thanks again for your help. You can reach me off list at >flynlow(at)usaviator.net. Where are you by the way? > >Bud Silvers >Colorado Springs, CO > >snipped> FWIW, the times I've caught problems before they became incidents on my plane were during oil changes. It's a pain in the rear to pull the cowl, but that's when you can see all those problems. Remember, most of the stuff under the cowl is 'aircraft quality' & should be treated that way, not like the auto or experimental stuff that doesn't seem to break. ( obligatory :-) here ) Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 2005
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 02/18/05
Hi Randy, Which one of these three was the Sensenich 72FM (fixed 2blade) run on? Regards, Jim Ayers In a message dated 02/18/2005 11:59:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List hartzell CS props Three: my RV-8, Van's "Delbert", and Jerry VanGrunsven's RV-8A. The data was normalized as best Van's could. Randy Lervold ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <flynlow(at)usaviator.net>
Subject: oil filter
Date: Feb 19, 2005
Hello Scott Thanks for your reply. I will consider your suggestion. Yes it did make sence. I will have to take a look at my engine next time at the Airport and get a better idea how that might work. Thanks Bud Silvers -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott VanArtsdalen Subject: Re: RV-List: oil filter Hey there Bud, I have an RV-4 which is really tight for changing the oil filter. It used to be a messy job until I made a tool that another RV-List'er recommended. You take an ordinary C clamp that has an opening that's wide enough to fit around your oil filter. Get a piece of rubber tubing that's long enough to reach from your C clamp to your oil bucket. Get a steel roll pin that's just about big enough to fit in your rubber tubing but not so big that it's wider than your C clamp! Now you grind one end of that roll pin to make a point, you're trying to make a can opener here so make it sharp. Next drill a hole in the flat side of the stationary jaw of your C clamp that's just big enough that the roll pin will fit if you drive it with a hammer. Drive the roll pin in with the pointy end toward the jackscrew on the opposite jaw of the C clamp. Put your rubber tubing on the tail of the roll pin and secure it with a hose clamp. Now, clamp that baby around your oil filter with the tubing and pointy roll pin at the bottom of the oil filter, put your bucket under your hose, and start turning the screw on the C clamp. The pointy roll pin will puncture the oil filter and drain the oil into your bucket. You may still get a drip or two but it won't be the big mess you would have had. I also used a little RTV around the roll pin as a seal to keep oil from seeping out past the roll pin while it is draining through the tubing. Geez that was wordy. I hope it makes sense. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pneumatic Squeezer
Date: Feb 19, 2005
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
Last fall I bought a rebuilt 114C from U.S. Tool and have been very happy with both it and their support (George) in answering a riveting novice's DS questions. Paul Valovich RV-8A Elevators ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 2005
Subject: Peltor ANR headset
Has anyone tried one of the "new" (?) Peltor ANR Pro GT headsets that Van's is carrying in the on-line catalog? Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: oil filter
Date: Feb 19, 2005
Bud, I found this in the new Avery tool catalog: OIL FILTER DRAIN KIT This tool makes draining oil from horizontally mounted filters clean amd quick. Warm your engine oil to at least 100 degrees. Punch hole in top of filter with punch provided; tighten clamp around filter and install drain hose; rotate filter 1/2 turn; wait 5 to 10 minutes and filter will be empty of oil. Quick, clean, & easy. Instructions included. Works on all aircraft oil filters. PART # 815 PRICE: $ 26.00 ea. As another poster suggested, un-cowling the engine completely at oil changes is a good opportunity to inspect the FWF for problems and developing problems. You just might catch something chafing through and save yourself an emergency. Ed Holyoke -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of flynlow(at)usaviator.net Subject: RE: RV-List: oil filter Ross; Thank you very much for the answer and for the link also. I will check with the folks you suggested. The guy who bought the Acrosport is supposed to come this weekend to pick it up. He wanted to switch oil sumps so he could have the one with the necessary welded fitting. I am reluctant to do that as I may some day decide to build my own inverted system. There really isn't much to it since I already have the engine modification and the fittings. The Acrosport has been a mess from day one, thus my decision to build an RV8 with the assistance of a friend. The main thing I am looking for is to build an airplane that is low and easy maintenance. I had hoped to be able to change the oil without removing the cowling and without getting anything too dirty. Thanks again for your help. You can reach me off list at flynlow(at)usaviator.net. Where are you by the way? Bud Silvers Colorado Springs, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter
Date: Feb 19, 2005
You could spend the $26, or you could spend just a buck or two and still have a "dripless" filter change. All you need is a small funnel and some tubing. Secure the funnel right beneath the oil filter with some safety wire or whatever, and run tubing from the funnel down into a container. http://rvproject.com/images/2004/20040907_funnel_under_filter.jpg http://rvproject.com/images/2004/20040907_filter_drain_tube.jpg Punch a hole at the top of the oil filter. Punch it at the AFT end of the filter -- which is better gravity-wise on a taildragger, and it also keeps the hole from interfering with the filter element when you want to remove it later. Loosen the filter 180 degrees. Punch another hole at what is now the top (letting air get in and speeding up the drain process). I let it sit until it stops dribbling. Put masking tape or duct tape or whatever over the holes so residual oil doesn't drip as you rotate the filter the rest of the way off to remove it. Not a drop anywhere -- works every time. Don't need a $26 gadget! ;-) Another old trick I tried once on one of the Mooneys... I went to a motorcycle shop and picked an old innertube out of the dumpster. Chopped a section of the innertube at the valve about 2" wide. Removed the valve stem. Slide the innertube section over the oil filter. Take a hammer & tail and punch the hole through the valve stem. Attach a tube to the valve stem, and run the tube down to your oil pan/collector. Rotate the filter, and it theoretically drains out the valve stem and through the tube. Better in theory than in practice. Oil still managed to seep out around the edges of the innertube section. I like the funnel method, personally. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> Subject: RE: RV-List: oil filter > > Bud, > > I found this in the new Avery tool catalog: > > OIL FILTER DRAIN KIT > This tool makes draining oil from horizontally mounted filters clean amd > quick. > Warm your engine oil to at least 100 degrees. Punch hole in top of > filter with > punch provided; tighten clamp around filter and install drain hose; > rotate filter > 1/2 turn; wait 5 to 10 minutes and filter will be empty of oil. Quick, > clean, & > easy. Instructions included. Works on all aircraft oil filters. > PART # 815 PRICE: $ 26.00 ea. > > As another poster suggested, un-cowling the engine completely at oil > changes is a good opportunity to inspect the FWF for problems and > developing problems. You just might catch something chafing through and > save yourself an emergency. > > Ed Holyoke > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > flynlow(at)usaviator.net > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: oil filter > > > Ross; > > Thank you very much for the answer and for the link also. I will check > with > the folks you suggested. The guy who bought the Acrosport is supposed to > come this weekend to pick it up. He wanted to switch oil sumps so he > could > have the one with the necessary welded fitting. I am reluctant to do > that as > I may some day decide to build my own inverted system. There really > isn't > much to it since I already have the engine modification and the > fittings. > > The Acrosport has been a mess from day one, thus my decision to build an > RV8 > with the assistance of a friend. The main thing I am looking for is to > build > an airplane that is low and easy maintenance. I had hoped to be able to > change the oil without removing the cowling and without getting anything > too > dirty. > > Thanks again for your help. You can reach me off list at > flynlow(at)usaviator.net. Where are you by the way? > > Bud Silvers > Colorado Springs, CO > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Blast Tubes
Date: Feb 19, 2005
Anyone on the list used the corrugated nylon tube that comes with Vans wiring kits for blast tubes? It looks about the same and would save me ordering possibly duplicate material. Thanks, Tom in Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2005
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: rigging the rudder pedals
I estimate that a +-35 degree rudder deflection on my 6A will result in about +-2.1inch pedal movement. Should the pedals be set up so that they are vertical when the rudder is in the neutral position? Seems to me it would be more comfortable if they were rigged so that the bottom of the pedals are a bit (perhaps an inch or so) further aft of the vertical position. Any recommendations on how to set this up? Thanks, -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 2005
Subject: Re: rigging the rudder pedals
In a message dated 2/19/05 4:49:35 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, sarg314(at)comcast.net writes: Should the pedals be set up so that they are vertical when the rudder is in the neutral position? Seems to me it would be more comfortable if they were rigged so that the bottom of the pedals are a bit (perhaps an inch or so) further aft of the vertical position. Any recommendations on how to set this up? Thanks, -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine. Tom, I made up several different lengths of 1/2 wide aluminum strips, and tried different lengths to see how they felt. When I found the right length, I made them out of 4130 steel. You are right that you need the rudder pedals at an angle so you can avoid hitting the brakes. Dan Hopper RV-7A N766DH (Flying) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: rigging the rudder pedals
Date: Feb 19, 2005
The further aft the bottom of your pedals are, the more difficult it will be for you to reach your brake pedals. On the other hand, having the bottom of the pedals aft will help you avoid unintentional brake application. Choose your poison. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> Subject: RV-List: rigging the rudder pedals > > I estimate that a +-35 degree rudder deflection on my 6A will result in > about +-2.1inch pedal movement. > > Should the pedals be set up so that they are vertical when the rudder is > in the neutral position? Seems to me it would be more comfortable if > they were rigged so that the bottom of the pedals are a bit (perhaps an > inch or so) further aft of the vertical position. Any recommendations > on how to set this up? > > Thanks, > -- > Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2005
From: Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: oil filter
The vernatherm is actually in parallel with the oil cooler and bypasses the cooler when the oil is cold. The path to and from the cooler is never restricted by the vernatherm - only bypassed, so some oil will always flow through the cooler, just less if the vernatherm is open.This is why you have to cover the cooler in cold weather. But it's still a lousy place for the filter. 8>) Dave B > The line to and from the cooler is a pressurized line and thus >would be better, but your engine likely has a vernatherm valve that when >functioning properly will keep the oil in your engine from going to the >cooler until it reaches a certain temperature (I think around 170 degrees >F). > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2005
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Blast Tubes
Yes, it works great for this. Make the hole in the baffle the same OD as the smaller diameter of the corregation and it snaps into place. Jeff Point RV-6 Milwaukee WI > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: Blast Tubes
Date: Feb 19, 2005
Thanks Jeff!!!!!!!!!!!!! Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Blast Tubes > > Yes, it works great for this. Make the hole in the baffle the same OD > as the smaller diameter of the corregation and it snaps into place. > > Jeff Point > RV-6 > Milwaukee WI > > >> >> > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 2005
Subject: Re: Blast Tubes
We have (I assume by Blast tubes you mean the tubes to carry air to the mags and alternator and generator.) The black corrugated tubing sent by Vans works well for us. We drilled the holes thru the rear baffle just large enough to require the tub to be forced threaded. We have over 100 hours and the tubes do the job. Rollie & Rod RV6A 799RQ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rv6n6r(at)comcast.net
Subject: Dressing a Scotch-Brite Wheel
Date: Feb 20, 2005
> With some of the shaping I've been doing with the Scotch Brite wheel, it > has developed some grooves in it's surface. Is there a recommended way to > dress a Scotch Brite wheel so it's surface is flat again? Dig up that stone wheel that you took off when you put the Scotch Brite one on there, and hold it against the scotch-brite. Works for me! Randall Henderson RV-6 With some of the shaping I've been doing with the Scotch Brite wheel, it has developed some grooves in it's surface. Is there a recommended way to dress a Scotch Brite wheel so it's surface is flat again? Dig up that stone wheel that you took off when you put the Scotch Brite one on there, and hold it against the scotch-brite. Works for me! Randall Henderson RV-6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Ray Allen Servo T2-10A
Date: Feb 19, 2005
While installing the servo for the aileron trim in an RV-7, I somehow managed to get the actuating arm in a bind and broke the tip off of the actuating arm where the clevis pin is located. I really hate to spend $125 for another servo when I could easily replace the actuating arm. Has anyone had any experience obtaining parts for these servos from Ray Allen? Anyone have a T2-10A servo for sale? Bill RV-7 fuse & finish Lee's Summit, MO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2005
From: Gary Zilik <zilik(at)direcpc.com>
Subject: Re: Peltor ANR headset
No, but I do have the Peltor ANR and they work great. Gary HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote: > >Has anyone tried one of the "new" (?) Peltor ANR Pro GT headsets that Van's >is carrying in the on-line catalog? > >Harry Crosby >Pleasanton, California >RV-6, flying! > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross S" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: New pictures and movies
Date: Feb 19, 2005
Attention builders! Lay down the deburring tool and have a look at these photos and videos. http://www.experimentalair.com/n703rv/flying-feb-05.html The videos are a bit shaky, but should serve as a litte motivation. More to come! -Ross Ross Schlotthauer RV-7 driver www.experimentalair.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: New pictures and movies
Date: Feb 19, 2005
Videos do not open for me, anyone else have difficulty? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross S" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: New pictures and movies > > Attention builders! Lay down the deburring tool and have a look at these > photos and videos. > > http://www.experimentalair.com/n703rv/flying-feb-05.html > > The videos are a bit shaky, but should serve as a litte motivation. > > More to come! > > -Ross > > Ross Schlotthauer > RV-7 driver > www.experimentalair.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: New pictures and movies
Date: Feb 19, 2005
They opened for me. I have high speed cable modem and it still took longer that usual to open. They must be large files. Jerry Calvert N296JC ----- Original Message ----- From: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits(at)comcast.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: New pictures and movies > > Videos do not open for me, anyone else have difficulty? > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ross S" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: New pictures and movies > > > > > > Attention builders! Lay down the deburring tool and have a look at these > > photos and videos. > > > > http://www.experimentalair.com/n703rv/flying-feb-05.html > > > > The videos are a bit shaky, but should serve as a litte motivation. > > > > More to come! > > > > -Ross > > > > Ross Schlotthauer > > RV-7 driver > > www.experimentalair.com > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net>
Subject: New pictures and movies
Date: Feb 19, 2005
They work, but real slow to open. Also, firewall, if installed must allow access to link by windows media player Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of D Paul Deits Subject: Re: RV-List: New pictures and movies Videos do not open for me, anyone else have difficulty? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross S" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: New pictures and movies > > Attention builders! Lay down the deburring tool and have a look at these > photos and videos. > > http://www.experimentalair.com/n703rv/flying-feb-05.html > > The videos are a bit shaky, but should serve as a litte motivation. > > More to come! > > -Ross > > Ross Schlotthauer > RV-7 driver > www.experimentalair.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: New pictures and movies
Date: Feb 19, 2005
If you don't have broad band , forget it. Took a while with my high speed cable connection. Cy Galley EAA Safety Programs Editor Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits(at)comcast.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: New pictures and movies > > Videos do not open for me, anyone else have difficulty? > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ross S" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: New pictures and movies > > >> >> Attention builders! Lay down the deburring tool and have a look at these >> photos and videos. >> >> http://www.experimentalair.com/n703rv/flying-feb-05.html >> >> The videos are a bit shaky, but should serve as a litte motivation. >> >> More to come! >> >> -Ross >> >> Ross Schlotthauer >> RV-7 driver >> www.experimentalair.com >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: Dressing a Scotch Brite Wheel
Date: Feb 19, 2005
> Try a wood 2X4. > > Richard Reynolds > > > Richard, > > Are the dimensions critical? I mean why a 2 by 4? Are you serious about > using wood to dress the wheel? That is exactly what to use. There is a procedure published by the mfg. Take a look for it on the web... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 20, 2005
Subject: Re: rigging the rudder pedals
In a message dated 2/19/2005 2:01:49 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes: Should the pedals be set up so that they are vertical when the rudder is in the neutral position? Seems to me it would be more comfortable if they were rigged so that the bottom of the pedals are a bit (perhaps an inch or so) further aft of the vertical position. Any recommendations on how to set this up? ===================================== Aft is better IMO. The main thing you will need to consider is the angle the pedals make with respect to your feet. As long as you can get this pedal relationship established to your satisfaction, the angle of the hoops is moot. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel Vent Line, RV-7
Date: Feb 20, 2005
I am getting ready to drill the holes through the side of the fuselage to install the bulkhead fittings for the fuel vent lines. Drawing 28 indicates that there should be a small pre-punched hole that needs to be enlarged for these bulkhead fittings. Well, there isn't any. Can someone please provide the location for these holes using existing rivet lines for a reference? Thanks. Bill RV-7 fuse & finish Lee's Summit, MO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2005
From: Andrew Douglas <adouglas(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces?
> > > Andrew, > > Those holes are where you rivet F-704G bars to the web. > > Dan Hopper Nonono.... The "extra" holes are in the WING SPAR. The rivets that go through the 704G and into the 704 bulkhead web don't go through the spar (otherwise you couldn't pull the wings without drilling the rivets out). ----------------------------------------------------- Andrew Douglas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 20, 2005
Subject: Re: Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces?
In a message dated 2/20/05 9:09:13 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time, adouglas(at)optonline.net writes: > > > Andrew, > > Those holes are where you rivet F-704G bars to the web. > > Dan Hopper Nonono.... The "extra" holes are in the WING SPAR. The rivets that go through the 704G and into the 704 bulkhead web don't go through the spar (otherwise you couldn't pull the wings without drilling the rivets out). ----------------------------------------------------- Andrew Douglas Andrew, I already corrected myself in another post. Apparently, there ARE extra holes in the spar web by mistake from Van's. Is this correct? Dan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 20, 2005
Subject: Re: Fuel Vent Line, RV-7
In a message dated 2/20/05 8:27:37 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time, wgill10(at)comcast.net writes: I am getting ready to drill the holes through the side of the fuselage to install the bulkhead fittings for the fuel vent lines. Drawing 28 indicates that there should be a small pre-punched hole that needs to be enlarged for these bulkhead fittings. Well, there isn't any. Can someone please provide the location for these holes using existing rivet lines for a reference? Thanks. Bill RV-7 fuse & finish Lee's Summit, MO Bill, Maybe someone will give you an exact answer, but speaking from experience: Wait until you fit the wings on and project the leading edge to the fuselage with a yardstick, or draw around the fairing. Just be sure to keep the large washer inside of the fairing outline, and look on the inside of the cabin to be sure you have a clear area there. I had to "move" mine after finding that I had it so low that the washer projected below the wing leading edge on the bottom. Dan Hopper Walton, IN RV-7A N766DH (Flying) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Re: Source for decals
Date: Feb 20, 2005
What is the procedure for decals on a polished plane? Run the buffer right over the decal? Polish near the edge of the decal by hand and hope it doesn't peal up? Spray clear over the area (bad idea?)? Other???? - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Rick Galati [mailto:rick6a(at)yahoo.com] > Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 5:46 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Re: Source for decals > > > I think this company's product line is what you have in mind. > > Rick Galati > http://www.aerographics.com/ > > > I'm planning on painting my plane as a Military trainer. Can > anyone recommend a source for decals? star insignia, etc. > > > ======== > ======== > ======== > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 20, 2005
Subject: Re: Alodine safety
Hi all, I am about two weeks away from my first exciting adventure with alondining. I figure I need some heavy gloves and a chemical proof apron. I have a respirator but didn't think that was going to be necessary. Anyone got a good source or recommendations for gloves and apron? Was the final consensus that the respirator is not necessary? Regards, Michael Wynn RV-8 Empennage San Ramon CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2005
From: gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Ray Allen Servo T2-10A
Bill Contact R.A. I had a similar situation where the actuator arm got nicked rather deeper than I liked during install, mu fault of course.... Gave'm a call and told the sad story, R.A. folks told me to ship it back with a prepaid return container and 5 bucks.. Came back brand new!!!! Great folks!!! Gert William Gill wrote: > >While installing the servo for the aileron trim in an RV-7, I somehow >managed to get the actuating arm in a bind and broke the tip off of the >actuating arm where the clevis pin is located. I really hate to spend >$125 for another servo when I could easily replace the actuating arm. >Has anyone had any experience obtaining parts for these servos from Ray >Allen? Anyone have a T2-10A servo for sale? > > >Bill >RV-7 fuse & finish >Lee's Summit, MO > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2005
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Alodine safety
Michael, I've Alodined EVERY aluminum part of my 8A project. I used simple Latex or Nitrile gloves to protect my hands. Using due care, I never spilled any on most of my body. The MSDS for chromic conversion liquids calls for flushing the skin with water, followed by washing with soap and water. The two areas where I did spill, were my lower arms and my socks. This happened several times, usually while transferring the Alodine back into my 5 gallon storage buckets. Wearing long sleeved shirts or long "gauntlet" gloves will protect your arms. I always kept spare socks and extra shoes/boots available. In retrospect, I wish I'd have fabricated some sort of plastic covering for the lower leg area. I simply removed my shoes and socks, then washed up. The amount spilled on me was always under 2 oz. This may be more useful than the apron. Please keep in mind that the dire warnings are there primarily for industrial workers, who use these chemicals on a daily basis. The exposure they get comes from repeated contact over a period of years. Sort of like smoking cigarettes, a few won't kill you. Keep doing it for 10 or 20 years and you've got problems. I'm not trying to imply that you should ignore safe work habits when using these products. Just don't make more of it, than needs be. A small aquarium style pump is really handy for transferring your Alodine and AlumiPrep chemicals from the dip tanks back to their storage containers. I would also empty my rinse water tank with this pump, to ensure that I had not left acid inside the pump. It will last longer that way. Remember that Alodine is photo chemically reactive. Don't use it out in the sun, or it will be ruined. By this, I mean that the next time you use it, nothing will happen. Do it in your garage or shop with the door and/or windows open. Charlie Kuss > >Hi all, > >I am about two weeks away from my first exciting adventure with alondining. >I figure I need some heavy gloves and a chemical proof apron. I have a >respirator but didn't think that was going to be necessary. Anyone got a >good >source or recommendations for gloves and apron? Was the final consensus >that the >respirator is not necessary? > >Regards, > >Michael Wynn >RV-8 Empennage >San Ramon CA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ivan McLaws" <toejam(at)cybertrails.com>
Subject: Heavy Wing
Date: Feb 20, 2005
I flew N532JV for the first time 2 weeks ago and had a "heavy" left wing. We called Vans who told us to very lightly tap the heavy wing trailing edge aileron and lightly squeeze the light wing trailing edge aileron. I worked. Now what are the aerodynamics involved? Ivan McLaws ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2005
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Heavy Wing
> >I flew N532JV for the first time 2 weeks ago and had a "heavy" left >wing. We called Vans who told us to very lightly tap the heavy wing >trailing edge aileron and lightly squeeze the light wing trailing >edge aileron. I worked. Now what are the aerodynamics involved? > >Ivan McLaws I have a theory, but I don't know whether it is the right answer or not. At the trailing edge, the air on the bottom has a tendency to follow the radius (Conada Effect). The larger the trailing edge radius, the greater the tendency the air has to go around the radius. The little bit of lower surface air that follows the radius ends up changing its direction upwards. It takes a force to cause the air to change direction, and the equal and opposite reaction is felt on the aileron, which has a tendency to deflect downwards. This tends to lift that wing. Of course the aileron on the other side is doing the same thing, but they are connected. Whichever aileron has the larger trailing edge radius overpowers the other one. The obvious question is what about the air on the top of the wing? It should be doing the same thing, and in the other direction. On the upper surface, the air velocity is maximum nearer the leading edge, and the air is slowing down as it approaches the trailing edge. This means that the air pressure is increasing as you move aft (Bernoulli tells us that the air pressure increases as the air slows down). So, the air is moving from an area of low pressure towards an area of higher pressure. It doesn't like to do that, so it slows down, which increases the boundary layer thickness. I believe that the boundary layer on the aft part of the upper surface is thicker than the boundary layer on the aft part of the lower surface, as the upper surface has a more adverse pressure gradient. This means that the air right next to the skin on the aft part of the wing is going slower on the upper surface than it is on the lower surface, so the Coanada effect would be greater on the lower surface. This is just my personal theory. It might be right or wrong. http://jnaudin.free.fr/html/coanda.htm -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2005
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Heavy Wing
I'm surprised that they told you to do this first. Who did you talk to at Van's? They have a FAQ for this very common problem on their website: http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Heavy.pdf The short version is this: "squeezing" the ailerons is the last thing to do. Rechecking all of the alignment of the wings, stabilizers, fairings etc. The other biggie is check the aileron alignment relative to the wing. I did and found that the leading edge of the "light" wing aileron was sticking down into the slipstream about 1/8 inch or so. A new pair of aileron brackets for ten bucks and an hour of work and the problem was solved, with no squeezing involved. If you squeeze an aileron, unless the aileron itself was causing the problem, you are just covering up a problem elsewhere, and adding unnecessary drag in the process. Read the FAQ sheet, it does a good job of explaining the whole process. Jeff Point RV-6 with a former heavy right wing Milwaukee WI > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 20, 2005
Subject: Re: Blast Tubes
In a message dated 2/19/05 1:44:39 PM Pacific Standard Time, tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes: << Anyone on the list used the corrugated nylon tube that comes with Vans wiring kits for blast tubes? It looks about the same and would save me ordering possibly duplicate material. >> That is what I used and it seems to work just fine. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, 30 hours to date. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Blast Tubes
Date: Feb 20, 2005
> > In a message dated 2/19/05 1:44:39 PM Pacific Standard Time, > tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes: > > << Anyone on the list used the corrugated nylon tube that > comes with Vans > wiring kits for blast tubes? It looks about the same and > would save me ordering > possibly duplicate material. >> > The blast tube material appears to be the same as the wiring conduit, except for the fact that the wiring conduit is split. Alex Peterson RV6-A 574 hours Maple Grove, MN http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: Blast Tubes
Date: Feb 20, 2005
Alex, The wiring conduit that came with my kit wasn't split. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RE: RV-List: Blast Tubes > > >> >> In a message dated 2/19/05 1:44:39 PM Pacific Standard Time, >> tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes: >> >> << Anyone on the list used the corrugated nylon tube that >> comes with Vans >> wiring kits for blast tubes? It looks about the same and >> would save me ordering >> possibly duplicate material. >> >> > > The blast tube material appears to be the same as the wiring conduit, > except > for the fact that the wiring conduit is split. > > Alex Peterson > RV6-A 574 hours > Maple Grove, MN > > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Blast Tubes
Date: Feb 21, 2005
It has worked for 7.5 years and 1,635 hours on my airplane. It is the same thing. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,635 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com ----Original Message Follows---- > > In a message dated 2/19/05 1:44:39 PM Pacific Standard Time, > tcervin(at)valkyrie.net writes: > > << Anyone on the list used the corrugated nylon tube that > comes with Vans > wiring kits for blast tubes? It looks about the same and > would save me ordering > possibly duplicate material. >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2005
From: Richard Riley <Richard(at)riley.net>
Subject: FS - IO-540 450 hours, $15k
A friend of mine is selling an IO-540 out of a crashed canard airplane. Parallel valve, 10:1 pistons, ported and polished on a flow bench, about 305 HP. Airflow performance fuel injection, 2 Lightspeed igntions, B&C lightweight starter and 60 amp alternator. Modified, low profile sump per the Berkut standard. Induction through the bottom of the sump. 450 hours at the crash, all logs are available. Currently set up for a fixed pitch prop, but with a hollow crank so it can be converted back. The flange is unbent, the crash was at idle with a wood prop. $15k plus shipping. Contact me if you're interested. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2005
From: Andrew Douglas <adouglas(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces?
> Apparently, there ARE extra > holes in the spar web by mistake from Van's. Is this correct? > > Dan > Well that's the musical question. There are holes for sure. But why? Same question goes for the fore 704D vertical pieces...there are bolt holes there that correspond to the bolt holes in the 704G, but bolts do not go through them. While the prepunched kit is GREAT and I wouldn't have it any other way, when something unusual is encountered it does lead to a lot of second-guessing like this over stuff that makes no difference 99.99 percent of the time. It's that 0.01 percent "gotcha" factor that makes us nervous. It's natural to assume that every single hole was punched for a darned good reason. What's frustrating is that it's sometimes left up to us to figure out what that reason is, and that can be a bit of a scavenger hunt to say the least. What's more frustrating is that sometimes there's no reason at all for a given hole to be (or not be) in a given spot. The center snap bushing holes that you drill in the 704B are like that...no guide hole was punched, unlike every other snap bushing hole. Absolutely no reason. ----------------------------------------------------- Andrew Douglas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: oil canning?
Date: Feb 21, 2005
Has any noticed an oil canning pop while flying fast? I get a change in aileron trim once this happens. I think it may be the old style fiberglass wing tips. I put some foam in one of them to keep it from falling out of shape and Im guessing this may be applying too much pressure in there when going fast. Just a theory. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 165 hours Chicago/Louisville ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood(at)lycos.com>
Date: Feb 21, 2005
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: RE: Bendix King Skyforce IIIC GPS battery
Chuck, After 5 yrs, my Skyforce IIIC just started complaining about the battery. I put in a web order last night to McMaster-Carr, per your suggestion: P/N is 6951K999 and the description is "disposable lithium battery Hawker Entercell 3.7V TO6/8AA TCL with one wire pigtail each end." They phoned me this morning & said they don't carry anything like this battery. Is there some magic phrase that I'm missing? Do you, or anyone else, know of any other source for an equivalent? Regards, Chris Good, West Bend, WI RV-6A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: RE: Bendix King Skyforce IIIC GPS battery Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2004 14:31:42 -0400 > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chuck Jensen > > For all the DIYs. The disassembly is not difficult but as you work your way > down through the board levels, just remove the screws and clips as you go. > The battery leads are soldered directly onto the board. Use a solder-sucker > to desolder the pigtail joints. Put the new battery pigtails in place, > soldered it (not too many close-by components to be heat damaged) and > reassemble. Plug in, turn on and allow internal battery to charge up. > > Cycle unit off/on. The database will likely be corrupted (it's probably a > Political Database). If the memory is corrupted, go into SETUP and clear > memory. The code to clear memory is either 3-3-3-3 or 1-2-3-4. When the > memory is cleared, your pin number is reset to 1-2-3-4. You will lose all > your saved flight plans and/or waypoints, but that's not the end of the > world! > > Kurt, an external battery may get disconnected, or not charged; each time > resulting in loss of your memory and corrupted database. Replacing the > internal battery is a once-every-5-year project and takes less than an > hour...2 hours for the dexterity-challenged. Not a big deal. > > As to the battery itself, the McMaster-Carr P/N is 6951K999 and the > description is "disposable lithium battery Hawker Entercell 3.7V TO6/8AA TCL > with one wire pigtail each end." Price was $13.46 with $3.45 shipping. > > Chuck > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of kurt > schrader > To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: RE: Bendix King Skyforce IIIC GPS > battery > > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: kurt schrader > > > Hi Jim, > > What I meant to say is that I wanted to mount the > replacement battery on the outside to avoid opening > the unit again next time. My main power comes off the > aircraft system. An external battery could be of any > diminsions and not have to fit the inside space. It > could be larger or maybe a cheaper substitute? Or > just a radio shack substitute that is easier to get. > > How's that for thinking out of the box? :-) Ok, if > it isn't too hard to do, I'll just stick with the > matching substitute. > > Kurt S. > > --- Jim Stone wrote: > > > Re: AeroElectric-List: RE: Bendix King Skyforce > > IIIC GPS battery > > > > Kert, > > > > I agree it's a bummer, having just gone through the > > process myself. I > > also did some investigations inside the box. It is > > NOT a standard > > identifiable battery as one would expect. This is > > probably a legacy of > > the unit originally being designed and built in > > Great Britain, then the > > company was bought by Bendix/King. > > > > Since the battery is used to keep the RAM alive, an > > external battery would still be required. > > > > Mine lasted over 5 years before the message poped > up. > > > > Good Luck, > > > > Jim Stone > > > > __________________________________ > > -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
Date: Feb 21, 2005
I need some ideas... I've finished riveting my tip-up canopy frame together and have the canopy all drilled and temporarily attached. The problem I have is that the canopy is flexing outward so that the frame overhangs the side of the fuselage. On the pilot side it sticks out 7/32", the passenger side is even worse. I expected some amount of this but not as much and I really don't like it. The problem is more along the middle.. the aft edge lines up nicely. Have others had this much of an overhang? Anything you can do to reduce it? Since the canopy is all drilled and ready I can't do too much for fear of misaligning the holes. Possible options: 1) Attempt to bend the frame in at the midpoint enough to allow the sides to line up once the canopy is screwed on. 2) Heat the canopy up enough to take out the outward flexing tendency. (Dangerous!?) 3) Install some sort of pin on the bottom edge of the canopy rail that engages some sort of hole in the canopy deck that would pull the sides in when closed. Matthew Brandes, Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit) EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
Date: Feb 21, 2005
Matt, I have a tilt up RV-6A. When it came time to get the canopy rail aligned with the fuselage, I used the "Fluting" pliers and simply put sufficient crimps along the side canopy rails until they came into alignment. I left approx 1/4" of "overhang" so that when the canopy is closed the skin of the canopy frame comes down on the outside of the aircraft approx 1/4". Keeps rain, wind etc from coming in through the sides. The crimping is really not noticeable and you could cover it with upholstery if it bothered you. Ed A Rv-6A N494BW Matthews, NC eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> ; Subject: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage > > I need some ideas... I've finished riveting my tip-up canopy frame together > and have the canopy all drilled and temporarily attached. The problem I > have is that the canopy is flexing outward so that the frame overhangs the > side of the fuselage. On the pilot side it sticks out 7/32", the passenger > side is even worse. I expected some amount of this but not as much and I > really don't like it. The problem is more along the middle.. the aft edge > lines up nicely. > > Have others had this much of an overhang? Anything you can do to reduce it? > Since the canopy is all drilled and ready I can't do too much for fear of > misaligning the holes. > > Possible options: > > 1) Attempt to bend the frame in at the midpoint enough to allow the sides to > line up once the canopy is screwed on. > 2) Heat the canopy up enough to take out the outward flexing tendency. > (Dangerous!?) > 3) Install some sort of pin on the bottom edge of the canopy rail that > engages some sort of hole in the canopy deck that would pull the sides in > when closed. > > > Matthew Brandes, > Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit) > EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 > www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
Date: Feb 21, 2005
Fluting/crimping would increase the curve of the side rails. It sounds like Matt needs to straighten the side rails to take out some of that sideways bulge. Matt, if you don't have access to a metal stretcher, you can use the hammer-and-vise method. Same technique as forming the longerons. Just put the side rail into the vise, pull/push the way you want it to go, and whack on it with a rubber mallet. That's how I got my canopy sides to follow the contour of the fuselage as closely as possible. FWIW, mine was near perfect before the plexi went on. After the plexi was installed, it bulged here and there just like yours. Next time I will probably make the canopy skirt overhang the fuselage side a bit like Ed mentioned, mostly for cosmetics. It's really easy to seal the sides from wind & rain, even without an overlapping skirt -- the overlap just makes it look better imho. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage > > Matt, > > I have a tilt up RV-6A. When it came time to get the canopy rail aligned > with the fuselage, I used the "Fluting" pliers and simply put sufficient > crimps along the side canopy rails until they came into alignment. I left > approx 1/4" of "overhang" so that when the canopy is closed the skin of the > canopy frame comes down on the outside of the aircraft approx 1/4". Keeps > rain, wind etc from coming in through the sides. > > The crimping is really not noticeable and you could cover it with upholstery > if it bothered you. > > Ed A > Rv-6A N494BW > Matthews, NC > eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> > To: ; ; > ; > Subject: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage > > > > > > I need some ideas... I've finished riveting my tip-up canopy frame > together > > and have the canopy all drilled and temporarily attached. The problem I > > have is that the canopy is flexing outward so that the frame overhangs the > > side of the fuselage. On the pilot side it sticks out 7/32", the > passenger > > side is even worse. I expected some amount of this but not as much and I > > really don't like it. The problem is more along the middle.. the aft edge > > lines up nicely. > > > > Have others had this much of an overhang? Anything you can do to reduce > it? > > Since the canopy is all drilled and ready I can't do too much for fear of > > misaligning the holes. > > > > Possible options: > > > > 1) Attempt to bend the frame in at the midpoint enough to allow the sides > to > > line up once the canopy is screwed on. > > 2) Heat the canopy up enough to take out the outward flexing tendency. > > (Dangerous!?) > > 3) Install some sort of pin on the bottom edge of the canopy rail that > > engages some sort of hole in the canopy deck that would pull the sides in > > when closed. > > > > > > Matthew Brandes, > > Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit) > > EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 > > www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Greg.Puckett(at)united.com
Date: Feb 21, 2005
Subject: Local source for 2024 sheet
Does anyone know of a local source in the Denver area to purchase 2024T3 sheet=3F=3F I need a long strip of 2-3" wide .040 for mounting the 1/3 turn cowl fasteners and it costs more to ship a 4x8 sheet that the sheet itself. thanks, Greg Puckett Elizabeth, CO RV-8 80081 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rv6n6r(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: oil canning?
Date: Feb 21, 2005
It seems unlikely that it would be the wingtips. People who've tried to intentionally change the wing trim by messing with the tips generally have reported little or no success. More likely its an aileron or some other flying or control surface that's oil-canning. Check for that in all control surfaces. Rudder oil-canning is pretty common and a change in rudder trim could be perceived as aileron trim change, although I wouldn't expect it to be audible in the cockpit. If you find oil-canning, it may only be fixable by replacing the component. I know some people have fixed this sort of thing by injecting expanding foam but that's something you'd want to be really careful about since it'd also change the balance of the surface, and woud likely serve as a trap for moisture. Randall Henderson RV-6 -------------- Original message -------------- > > Has any noticed an oil canning pop while flying fast? I get a change in aileron > trim once this happens. I think it may be the old style fiberglass wing tips. > I put some foam in one of them to keep it from falling out of shape and Im > guessing this may be applying too much pressure in there when going fast. Just > a theory. > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling > RV-6A, N915JD > 165 hours > Chicago/Louisville > > > > > > It seems unlikely that it would be the wingtips. People who've tried to intentionally change the wing trim by messing with the tips generally have reported little or no success. More likely its an aileron or some other flying or control surface that's oil-canning. Check for that in all control surfaces. Rudder oil-canning is pretty common and a change in rudder trim could be perceived as aileron trim change, although I wouldn't expect it to be audible in the cockpit. If you find oil-canning, it may only be fixable by replacing the component. I know some people have fixed this sort of thing by injecting expanding foam but that's something you'd want to be really careful about since it'd also change the balance of the surface, and woud likely serve as a trap for moisture. Randall Henderson RV-6 -------------- Original message -------------- -- RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" Has any noticed an oil canning pop while flying fast? I get a change in aileron trim once this happens. I think it may be the old style fiberglass wing tips. I put some foam in one of them to keep it from falling out of shape and Im guessing this may be applying too much pressure in there when going fast. Just a theory. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 165 hours Chicago/Louisville &g ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Local source for 2024 sheet
Date: Feb 21, 2005
Have you tried Univair? Might call Bobby Green at 303-59-5829 Tell him Cy sent you. Cy Galley - Chair, AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair A Service Project of Chapter 75 EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: <Greg.Puckett(at)united.com> Subject: RV-List: Local source for 2024 sheet > > Does anyone know of a local source in the Denver area to purchase 2024T3 > sheet=3F=3F > > I need a long strip of 2-3" wide .040 for mounting the 1/3 turn cowl > fasteners and it costs more to ship a 4x8 sheet that the sheet itself. > > thanks, > > > Greg Puckett > Elizabeth, CO > RV-8 80081 > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net>
Subject: O360 settings
Date: Feb 21, 2005
Any good Manifold versus RPM settings or table for an RV4 and RV8 ???? Thank you. Michel ( Spain) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Local source for 2024 sheet
Date: Feb 21, 2005
Greg, I'm quite sure Van's will sell you whatever size you want or need, with a charge for cutting. The shipping for a 2 or 3" wide strip or strips 48" or less in length certainly should be far less that packing and shipping a full sheet. You are probably going to have four pieces of the strip anyway to get it to fit properly, so none should be longer than maybe 30". (I used the same or similar fasteners, and I could go measure mine if that helps.) Terry RV-8A #80729 Seattle Does anyone know of a local source in the Denver area to purchase 2024T3 sheet=3F=3F I need a long strip of 2-3" wide .040 for mounting the 1/3 turn cowl fasteners and it costs more to ship a 4x8 sheet that the sheet itself. thanks, Greg Puckett Elizabeth, CO RV-8 80081 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Ray Allen Servo T2-10A
Date: Feb 21, 2005
Thanks Gert, I phoned today with a request to purchase another actuating arm. The gentleman responded by saying, "Just send it in and we'll repair/replace it for about $10." He was unconcerned about who was at fault. What a relief! Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gert Subject: Re: RV-List: Ray Allen Servo T2-10A Bill Contact R.A. I had a similar situation where the actuator arm got nicked rather deeper than I liked during install, mu fault of course.... Gave'm a call and told the sad story, R.A. folks told me to ship it back with a prepaid return container and 5 bucks.. Came back brand new!!!! Great folks!!! Gert William Gill wrote: > >While installing the servo for the aileron trim in an RV-7, I somehow >managed to get the actuating arm in a bind and broke the tip off of the >actuating arm where the clevis pin is located. I really hate to spend >$125 for another servo when I could easily replace the actuating arm. >Has anyone had any experience obtaining parts for these servos from Ray >Allen? Anyone have a T2-10A servo for sale? > > >Bill >RV-7 fuse & finish >Lee's Summit, MO > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
Date: Feb 21, 2005
I'm also working on my tip up canopy (RV-6). Frame is all cleco'd together, moving on to fwd top fuselage skin. I also used fluting pliers to "shrink" the middle of the side frame to pull it in to be flush with side of fuselage - was a VERY SLOW process. I eventually took 2nd side frame to a commercial sheet metal shop and used their BIG "shrinker" - only let the guy put about 2 gear teeths's worth of rotation and it was enuf. Now, with all that work, am I to understand that the weight of the plexiglas canopy is going to cause the side frames to bow out again? If that is so, and if it is repeatable, then shouldn't the plans (or someone's builders' tip) tell builders to have the frame be, for example, 1/4 inch inside of being flush, in anticipation that the plexiglas will make it bow out to be flush? David Carter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage > > Matt, > > I have a tilt up RV-6A. When it came time to get the canopy rail aligned > with the fuselage, I used the "Fluting" pliers and simply put sufficient > crimps along the side canopy rails until they came into alignment. I left > approx 1/4" of "overhang" so that when the canopy is closed the skin of the > canopy frame comes down on the outside of the aircraft approx 1/4". Keeps > rain, wind etc from coming in through the sides. > > The crimping is really not noticeable and you could cover it with upholstery > if it bothered you. > > Ed A > Rv-6A N494BW > Matthews, NC > eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> > To: ; ; > ; > Subject: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage > > > > > > I need some ideas... I've finished riveting my tip-up canopy frame > together > > and have the canopy all drilled and temporarily attached. The problem I > > have is that the canopy is flexing outward so that the frame overhangs the > > side of the fuselage. On the pilot side it sticks out 7/32", the > passenger > > side is even worse. I expected some amount of this but not as much and I > > really don't like it. The problem is more along the middle.. the aft edge > > lines up nicely. > > > > Have others had this much of an overhang? Anything you can do to reduce > it? > > Since the canopy is all drilled and ready I can't do too much for fear of > > misaligning the holes. > > > > Possible options: > > > > 1) Attempt to bend the frame in at the midpoint enough to allow the sides > to > > line up once the canopy is screwed on. > > 2) Heat the canopy up enough to take out the outward flexing tendency. > > (Dangerous!?) > > 3) Install some sort of pin on the bottom edge of the canopy rail that > > engages some sort of hole in the canopy deck that would pull the sides in > > when closed. > > > > > > Matthew Brandes, > > Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit) > > EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 > > www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
Date: Feb 21, 2005
I mis-spoke on the operations I did to make my side frames fit. I needed to straighten it in the middle and increase curve in aft 6 inches, What really happened was I put side frame piece in vise, then used a 1/2 inch dia steel rod and did about "5" light taps with a hammer on the middle of the frame - the frame relaxed(straightened) A LOT! I should have only used 1 or 2 taps at a time - "relaxing" (straightening) the frame is EASY & FAST. To fix my boo boo, and re-curve selected spots took a LOT of SLOW fluting, then the massive commercial shrinker to speed up the process. - There was about a 100 to 1 ratio of effort to "add curve" vs "reduce curve"!!! David ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage > > I'm also working on my tip up canopy (RV-6). Frame is all cleco'd together, > moving on to fwd top fuselage skin. > > I also used fluting pliers to "shrink" the middle of the side frame to pull > it in to be flush with side of fuselage - was a VERY SLOW process. I > eventually took 2nd side frame to a commercial sheet metal shop and used > their BIG "shrinker" - only let the guy put about 2 gear teeths's worth of > rotation and it was enuf. > > Now, with all that work, am I to understand that the weight of the plexiglas > canopy is going to cause the side frames to bow out again? If that is so, > and if it is repeatable, then shouldn't the plans (or someone's builders' > tip) tell builders to have the frame be, for example, 1/4 inch inside of > being flush, in anticipation that the plexiglas will make it bow out to be > flush? > > David Carter > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage > > > > > > Matt, > > > > I have a tilt up RV-6A. When it came time to get the canopy rail aligned > > with the fuselage, I used the "Fluting" pliers and simply put sufficient > > crimps along the side canopy rails until they came into alignment. I left > > approx 1/4" of "overhang" so that when the canopy is closed the skin of > the > > canopy frame comes down on the outside of the aircraft approx 1/4". Keeps > > rain, wind etc from coming in through the sides. > > > > The crimping is really not noticeable and you could cover it with > upholstery > > if it bothered you. > > > > Ed A > > Rv-6A N494BW > > Matthews, NC > > eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> > > To: ; ; > > ; > > Subject: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage > > > > > > > > > > I need some ideas... I've finished riveting my tip-up canopy frame > > together > > > and have the canopy all drilled and temporarily attached. The problem I > > > have is that the canopy is flexing outward so that the frame overhangs > the > > > side of the fuselage. On the pilot side it sticks out 7/32", the > > passenger > > > side is even worse. I expected some amount of this but not as much and > I > > > really don't like it. The problem is more along the middle.. the aft > edge > > > lines up nicely. > > > > > > Have others had this much of an overhang? Anything you can do to reduce > > it? > > > Since the canopy is all drilled and ready I can't do too much for fear > of > > > misaligning the holes. > > > > > > Possible options: > > > > > > 1) Attempt to bend the frame in at the midpoint enough to allow the > sides > > to > > > line up once the canopy is screwed on. > > > 2) Heat the canopy up enough to take out the outward flexing tendency. > > > (Dangerous!?) > > > 3) Install some sort of pin on the bottom edge of the canopy rail that > > > engages some sort of hole in the canopy deck that would pull the sides > in > > > when closed. > > > > > > > > > Matthew Brandes, > > > Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit) > > > EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 > > > www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Local source for 2024 sheet
Date: Feb 21, 2005
Try www.airpartskc.com<http://www.airpartskc.com/> Tommy Walker 6A, Ridgetop, TN "Finishing the Finishing" ----- Original Message ----- From: Greg.Puckett(at)united.com<mailto:Greg.Puckett(at)united.com> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 1:50 PM Subject: RV-List: Local source for 2024 sheet Does anyone know of a local source in the Denver area to purchase 2024T3 sheet3F3F I need a long strip of 2-3" wide .040 for mounting the 1/3 turn cowl fasteners and it costs more to ship a 4x8 sheet that the sheet itself. thanks, Greg Puckett Elizabeth, CO RV-8 80081 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob(at)robsglass.com>
Subject: Ti tie downs
Date: Feb 21, 2005
Subject: Re: RV-List: Titanium Tie downs (Randy Simpson) List message posted by: Bob From: "Tom" <tomrv8(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Mag question...
Date: Feb 21, 2005
I have an O-320 D3G in my RV-4. It currently has a Slick 4271 (impulse coupling mag). That mag bit the dust, and I need to replace it. I have access to a 4372. Does anyone know if the 4372 is a direct replacement for the 4271 on this engine? Thanks, Tom Chapman San Antonio RV-4...1100 hours...and holding... -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: Alodine safety
Date: Feb 21, 2005
My bottle says to wear a respirator. Don't know for sure it it is necessary if you are not working with it all the time, but why take a chance? Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of MLWynn(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Alodine safety Hi all, I am about two weeks away from my first exciting adventure with alondining. I figure I need some heavy gloves and a chemical proof apron. I have a respirator but didn't think that was going to be necessary. Anyone got a good source or recommendations for gloves and apron? Was the final consensus that the respirator is not necessary? Regards, Michael Wynn RV-8 Empennage San Ramon CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2005
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Trio Ez Pilot Question
Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same servo) folks. The installation instructions for the Ez Pilot recommend a shielded wire for the PWM (servo movement commands)signal line (from the control head to the servo). Do I need to find some shielded wire for this and what should I use? Is there a Tefzel or MIL-SPEC coaxial cable that I could/should use? What gauge would it be and where would I get it? Is this a big deal or could I just use an unshielded wire here? What is the frequency of the pulse width modulation that Trio uses? Would it be an antagonist to my radios and audio system? Thanks. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Can't wait to fly this thing!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: Trio Ez Pilot Question
Date: Feb 21, 2005
Aircraft Spruce, and I assume also Wicks, has shielded Tezfel wire from 8-22 AWG. They also have two and 3 conductor in 22 AWG. I would certainly use it, particularly if you have it running back in the tail parallel and near antenna cables. Aside from possible interference with the radios you also don't want a bunch of RF coupling to the servo and putting you in a hard turn when you key the mic. Don't know how suceptible this particular system is to that, but I have seen it happen on several different types of marine autopilots. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DEAN PSIROPOULOS Subject: RV-List: Trio Ez Pilot Question Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same servo) folks. The installation instructions for the Ez Pilot recommend a shielded wire for the PWM (servo movement commands)signal line (from the control head to the servo). Do I need to find some shielded wire for this and what should I use? Is there a Tefzel or MIL-SPEC coaxial cable that I could/should use? What gauge would it be and where would I get it? Is this a big deal or could I just use an unshielded wire here? What is the frequency of the pulse width modulation that Trio uses? Would it be an antagonist to my radios and audio system? Thanks. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Can't wait to fly this thing!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ex Pilot Question
Hi Dean, Thanks for pointing this out. I've already wired my Trio Avionics EZ Pilot servo, but didn't notice the recommendation to use shielded wire on the PWM line. How the heck did I miss this? Anyway... One question for the experts - would it hurt to have all three lines - ground, +14v, and the PWM be in the same shielded bundle? One concern I have is that the documentation says to ground both ends of the shield. This seems to be in conflict with Bob's teachings. Are autopilot servos different from strobes in this regard? Thanks, Mickey >>Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same >>servo) folks. The installation instructions for the Ez Pilot recommend a >>shielded wire for the PWM (servo movement commands)signal line from the >>control head to the servo. Do I need to find some shielded wire > > > . . . if the manufacturer calls it out, it's a > reasonable thing to do. -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
Date: Feb 22, 2005
Prior to riveting the side rails to the tip-up frame, I had shaped them to match the curve of the fuselage. This was actually pretty easy using Dan's method of hammer and bench vice. One of my rails didn't need any adjusting. The other needed quite a bit. When I riveted the side rails and the canopy support frame, I did it taking into account the canopy sides skins and such. Without the canopy in place, the frame sits very nicely in alignment. I received a reply from another builder who had a similar problem and attributed it to not enough trimming of the canopy along the forward edge to get it to sit flush and rest on the top skin. I think this may contribute to the problem and be part of mine. The front edge of my canopy is pretty good but not perfect.. it doesn't sit down on the top skin by itself along the middle.... sits up 3/32" or so. However, where the canopy passes through the 'ears' on along the sides, the canopy is really tight and I think this is where it is 'pushing' outward. I think if a builder were to trim the front edge a little more, get a really good fit it might not be as bad. My plan at this point is too try and bend the canopy frame in a little and to also do some shaping of the edge of the canopy where it passes through that ear along the side. If I taper the canopy as it comes down along the side, it won't push out as much. I'll let everyone know how I come out. Matthew Brandes, Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit) EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Mag question...
Date: Feb 22, 2005
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
Tom, The difference between the 4271 and the 4372 is the lag angle. The 4372 is more retarded than the 4271. Allen Barrett Barrett Performance Aircraft, Inc. www.bpaengines.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Subject: RV-List: Mag question... I have an O-320 D3G in my RV-4. It currently has a Slick 4271 (impulse coupling mag). That mag bit the dust, and I need to replace it. I have access to a 4372. Does anyone know if the 4372 is a direct replacement for the 4271 on this engine? Thanks, Tom Chapman San Antonio RV-4...1100 hours...and holding... -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2005
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Trio Ez Pilot Question
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote: > > > Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same > servo) folks. The installation instructions for the Ez Pilot recommend a > shielded wire for the PWM (servo movement commands)signal line (from the > control head to the servo). Do I need to find some shielded wire for this > and what should I use? Is there a Tefzel or MIL-SPEC coaxial cable that I > could/should use? What gauge would it be and where would I get it? Is this > a big deal or could I just use an unshielded wire here? What is the > frequency of the pulse width modulation that Trio uses? Would it be an > antagonist to my radios and audio system? Thanks. Just as a data point, and not necessarily a recommendation, I have been flying the Navaid servo for 630 hours with no problems using unshielded wire. The EZ-Pilot head has likewise been totally happy with the wiring for the past 150 hours. Shielded wire certainly can't hurt anything, but it hasn't been necessary in *my* installation. I used CAT5 network cable for the hookup of my AlTrak system and it also has been free from EMI issues. Sam Buchanan http://thervjournal.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Mag question...
Date: Feb 22, 2005
According to the Slick Master Manual, your engine should have a 4271, 4371, 4370, 4250, 4251, 4252, 4281, or 4270 The listing I find for the 4372 indicates it came off a O-235 K2A or higher lettered model. You could e-mail Harry Fenton at gippsaero(at)charter.net Probably has something to do with the lag angle. Cy Galley - Chair, AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair A Service Project of Chapter 75 EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom" <tomrv8(at)gvtc.com> Subject: RV-List: Mag question... > > I have an O-320 D3G in my RV-4. > > It currently has a Slick 4271 (impulse coupling mag). That mag bit the > dust, > and I need to replace it. I have access to a 4372. Does anyone know if the > 4372 is a direct replacement for the 4271 on this engine? > > Thanks, > > Tom Chapman > San Antonio > RV-4...1100 hours...and holding... > > > -- > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Dynon USB to serial patch cable
Date: Feb 22, 2005
Just a quick note to those who plan on hooking up your Dynon to your pc via the USB port. I bought brand x at CompUSA and it didn't work. I talked to the Dynon guys who told me they really recommend the Radio Crap 26-183. OK, it says that in the directions also. Anyway, the Radio Crap one worked great. Go figure. Now, any suggestions on getting this thing installed? How do get your hand back there to put the nuts on? I cant remove the instruments next to it because they interfere with the Dynon, which will have to overlap its neighbor's. Sounds like a fun couple of hours on my back (not that kind of fun). Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 165 hours Chicago/Louisville ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
Subject: Pedals
Date: Feb 22, 2005
The overhead type pedals should triangulate to a point at the bottom since both tubes are offset. If you move the bottoms aft or fwd a lot they will feel very different both in position and in how the brake rocks because as the triangle racks the pedals change length and angle unevenly with respect to your hips. This gets more pronounced the more the pedals move away from an isoceles triangle. I have posted a lot on these, as there is no real way to position them as designed by Vans and not have the brakes applied slightly during full rudder deflection. (At least my ankles don't bend that far) FLAMERS stow it. I've tested this on over 40 aircraft now. Every time the owner is suprised to learn they are applying brakes. Its a simple test, have someone rock the plane while you try to deflect the rudder with the pedals. The solution is to attach a half 2" tube split lengthwise about 6" long to the bottom of each pedal that curves around the botton of the pedal U. A piece of 3/4 x .125 6061 angle of the same length riveted or screwed to the bottom of the pedal will make the attach flange. Then attach/rivet the split tube to the 3/4 x .125 flange that now faces aft from the bottom of the pedal. Since the tube is now below the brake pedal pivot pushing the rudder pedal on that part deactivates the brakes, but you can still rock to apply brakes easily. This also makes the pedal a lot more comfortable as the ball of your toes tends to rest nicely on the "2 split tube. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Dynon USB to serial patch cable
Date: Feb 22, 2005
Shemp, Just relocate the port elsewhere. Wire a connector to the back of the Dynon, and then run the wires somewhere accessible and put a connector there. In my case I've got about 6' of wire coming off to a connector, which I just tie wrapped in a pigtail up under the panel. When I need to connect my laptop, I just plug into that, or I cut down the tie wraps and pull out the pigtail if I need more slack. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: Dynon USB to serial patch cable > > Just a quick note to those who plan on hooking up your Dynon to your pc via the USB port. I bought brand x at CompUSA and it didn't work. I talked to the Dynon guys who told me they really recommend the Radio Crap 26-183. OK, it says that in the directions also. Anyway, the Radio Crap one worked great. Go figure. > > Now, any suggestions on getting this thing installed? How do get your hand back there to put the nuts on? I cant remove the instruments next to it because they interfere with the Dynon, which will have to overlap its neighbor's. Sounds like a fun couple of hours on my back (not that kind of fun). > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling > RV-6A, N915JD > 165 hours > Chicago/Louisville > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
Subject: trio
Date: Feb 22, 2005
Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same servo) folks. Dean, yes shield it, check with steinair, nice guy, good prices, does great work http://www.steinair.com/ W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 22, 2005
Subject: Re: Pedals
W, Sounds like a good idea. Could you clear up for me what the half 2" tube is. What is it made of? I was picturing of a piece of heater hose, etc. How much thickness have you found is needed -- from the original pedal. Dan Hopper RV-7A (Flying) In a message dated 2/22/05 10:44:12 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time, wnorth(at)sdccd.edu writes: The solution is to attach a half 2" tube split lengthwise about 6" long to the bottom of each pedal that curves around the botton of the pedal U. A piece of 3/4 x .125 6061 angle of the same length riveted or screwed to the bottom of the pedal will make the attach flange. Then attach/rivet the split tube to the 3/4 x .125 flange that now faces aft from the bottom of the pedal. W ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2005
From: Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ex Pilot Question
With the strobe you are trying to keep the noise IN, on the servo you're keeping it OUT. Two different things and they are treated differently. Dave B >One concern I have is that the documentation says to ground both >ends of the shield. This seems to be in conflict with Bob's >teachings. Are autopilot servos different from strobes in this >regard? > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights?
Date: Feb 22, 2005
I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering if I need additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure what gauge wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty small. I dont think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5 amp c.b. Should I put little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to a something smaller? Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 165 hours Chicago/Louisville ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Draper <mdraper(at)nww.com>
Subject: Pedals
Date: Feb 22, 2005
Wheeler: Sounds like a good fix. A few others have also complained about the pedal geometry. Is this similar or different from the pedal extensions on Randy Lervold's site? http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm#IDEA:%20Rudder%20Pedal%20Extensions <http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm#IDEA:%20Rudder%20Pedal%20Extensions> -Mike RV-8 QB Wings Message Wheeler: Sounds like a good fix. A few others have also complained about the pedal geometry. Is this similar or different from the pedal extensions on Randy Lervold's site? http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm#IDEA:%20Rudder%20Pedal%20Extensions -Mike RV-8 QB Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2005
From: Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Navaid Autopilot for sale
My pal Nolan has a navaid for sale. Contact him to buy it or for more information For Sale: Navaid AP-1 Autopilot with S-2 Servo and separate Porcine Smart Coupler II GPS interface. I am asking $950 for the combination. These items have never been used, they have just been sitting on the shelf for a few years. For detailed specs see the web site: Navaid-Devices.com . N. V. Frederick (303) 494-9510 or vnolan(at)idcomm.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Ez Pilot Question
OK, thanks for the clarification! Mickey > With the strobe you are trying to keep the noise IN, on the servo you're > keeping it OUT. Two different things and they are treated differently. > >>One concern I have is that the documentation says to ground both >>ends of the shield. This seems to be in conflict with Bob's >>teachings. Are autopilot servos different from strobes in this >>regard? >> -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Mckenna" <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: For Sale: Lyc 200HP IO-360-A3B6D
Date: Feb 22, 2005
For Sale: Lyc 200HP IO-360-A3B6D. Pulled from flying Mooney M20J by Mod Works 3/25/97. Has been pickled since I bought it shortly there after. Includes single drive dual mag, alternator, mechanical fuel pump, fuel servo, ignition harness, starter, flywheel. Engine log included and available for review. 3944 TT, 1716 SMOH $8500. Call 770-962-7064 or email mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net for more info. Mike Mckenna ________________________________________________________________________________
From: YonderRDC(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 22, 2005
Subject: Horizontal stab BooBoo....
Hi All....I've been lurking for a couple of years and finially have a -8 QB out in my shop and am working on the Horizontal stab....On one side of the stab when clecoing it together prior to dimpling, rib 707 was a bit canted or out of alignment initially and caused a small "inside-out dent" in the skin as I tried to pull the skin in toward the rib/spar structure. Anyone else have this happen to them.....and how did you remedy the dent.....is there a trick to prevent it next time as I pull this together for riviting? Hope this isn't too much of a New Guy question....Thanks for your input.. David Ward RV-8 QB empenage N100DW (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com>
Subject: Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights?
Date: Feb 22, 2005
I don't think you need to protect the individual lights. If one of them shorts out, it will draw more power from the dimmer, and it will pop the CB. Size the CB for the wires powering the dimmer (or size the wire for the CB), and make sure the wires to the bulbs don't rub against anything sharp :-) Dennis Glaeser > I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering if I need additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure what gauge wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty small. I dont think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5 amp c.b. Should I put little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to a something smaller? Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 165 hours Chicago/Louisville Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? I don't think you need to protect the individual lights. If one of them shorts out, it will draw more power from the dimmer, and it will pop the CB. Size the CB for the wires powering the dimmer (or size the wire for the CB), and make sure the wires to the bulbs don't rub against anything sharp :-) Dennis Glaeser -- RV-List message posted by: Shemp shempdowling(at)earthlink.net I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering if I need additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure what gauge wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty small. I dont think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5 amp c.b. Should I put little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to a something smaller? Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 165 hours Chicago/Louisville ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2005
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
I am about to install some of the AN816 pipe thread to AN 37 deg. adapters in my engine (for oil to the cooler, for instance) and am wondering if I should use aluminum fittings or steel. My engine rebuilder (Bart LaLonde) delivered the engine with one or two fittings installed and he used steel. An A&P I asked said Aluminum is OK. Ken at Vans says there is some difference of opinion on this and the conservative way to go is steel. Does any one know what the putative downside of using aluminum is? Does it tend to sieze, or leak? -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2005
From: <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
Tom, Both are used. Conservative folks use steel for it's added strength. The shaking of your Laucosaurus Paint mixing machine has been known to cause the aluminum fittings to crack right where the pipe threading ends. It's not a common failure, but if it happens to you, it means an engine overhaul. (if you manage to land OK) Plenty of folks out there are using aluminum wihout problems. A middle ground might be to use aluminum and change out the fittings every, say, 5 years. Charlie Kuss ---- sarg314 wrote: > > I am about to install some of the AN816 pipe thread to AN 37 deg. > adapters in my engine (for oil to the cooler, for instance) and am > wondering if I should use aluminum fittings or steel. My engine > rebuilder (Bart LaLonde) delivered the engine with one or two fittings > installed and he used steel. An A&P I asked said Aluminum is OK. Ken at > Vans says there is some difference of opinion on this and the > conservative way to go is steel. > > Does any one know what the putative downside of using aluminum is? Does > it tend to sieze, or leak? > > -- > Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
Date: Feb 22, 2005
> I am about to install some of the AN816 pipe thread to AN 37 deg. > adapters in my engine (for oil to the cooler, for instance) and am > wondering if I should use aluminum fittings or steel. My engine > rebuilder (Bart LaLonde) delivered the engine with one or two fittings > installed and he used steel. An A&P I asked said Aluminum is OK. Ken at > Vans says there is some difference of opinion on this and the > conservative way to go is steel. > > Does any one know what the putative downside of using aluminum is? Does > it tend to sieze, or leak? The general rule I've followed is to use steel if it's attached to the engine and aluminum everywhere else. This makes sense due to the vibration and heat they must endure if attached directly to the engine. Bart used all steel fittings on my engine also, but I see no reason not to use AL on the the firewall and oil cooler. Randy Lervold ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2005
From: "Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell" <caldwel(at)ictransnet.com>
Subject: Wanted o360-A2A
I'm look for an O360-A2A. Anyone have one for sale Roger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re : mag question / lag angle
Date: Feb 23, 2005
G'day Tom, I believe Cy is correct, in that the difference in the two mags would be down to the lag angle. A recent email from Harry Fenton explained 'lag angle' thus.... "Lag angle is pretty basic- it is the angular difference (or "delta") between the static firing point of the magneto versus the point where the impulse coupling delays the firing for starting. For example- the 4371 magneto on your engine has a 20 degree lag. The static firing point when the engine is running is 25 degrees. Therefore, the impulse coupling on your mag should fire the mag about 5 degrees BTDC. Sort of. The lag angle is calculated at an engine cranking speed of 50-75 rpm. If you pull the prop through by hand at less than 75 rpm, then the lag of the mag may not match the lag angle. Due to friction, oil viscosity, taildragger stance, the coupling may drag and fire a bit late. Conversely, a fast turning starter may spin the mag so fast that the impulse coupling disengages prior to start. Very common with low compression engines fitted with wood or composite props and high torque starter. The internal timing, or E-gap of the mag will also affect lag angle. E-gap is a physical positioning of the magnets of the rotor. The coupling is keyed to the rotor. If the E-gap is off, then the physical positioning of the coupling will shift." Hope this helps Martin in Oz ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2005
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Trio Ez Pilot Question
Just an FYI, but that's a stock wire for us, it's fairly reasonably priced, and all the production EZ pilot harnesses we make come with either 3 or 4 wire shielded tefzel wire as standard for this autopilot. Cheers, Stein. ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 23:58:18 -0500 > >Aircraft Spruce, and I assume also Wicks, has shielded Tezfel wire from 8-22 >AWG. They also have two and 3 conductor in 22 AWG. I would certainly use >it, particularly if you have it running back in the tail parallel and near >antenna cables. > >Aside from possible interference with the radios you also don't want a bunch >of RF coupling to the servo and putting you in a hard turn when you key the >mic. Don't know how suceptible this particular system is to that, but I >have seen it happen on several different types of marine autopilots. > >Brian Kraut >Engineering Alternatives, Inc. >www.engalt.com > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DEAN PSIROPOULOS >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Trio Ez Pilot Question > > > > > >Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same >servo) folks. The installation instructions for the Ez Pilot recommend a >shielded wire for the PWM (servo movement commands)signal line (from the >control head to the servo). Do I need to find some shielded wire for this >and what should I use? Is there a Tefzel or MIL-SPEC coaxial cable that I >could/should use? What gauge would it be and where would I get it? Is this >a big deal or could I just use an unshielded wire here? What is the >frequency of the pulse width modulation that Trio uses? Would it be an >antagonist to my radios and audio system? Thanks. > >Dean Psiropoulos >RV-6A N197DM >Can't wait to fly this thing!!! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2005
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
Matthew: That tip-up frame gave me fits. There must be a better way to design that thing. How does the frame fit to the fuselage when the plexiglass is not installed? I ask because I have a hard time believing the plexi will not just match to the frame. It's very compliant on a distance scale of about 1/4" and the frame should be pretty stiff once its all rivetted together. If the frame hangs over the edge without the plexi installed, then you have to bend the side rails in. That will extend it's length a bit, which may give you some clearance problems back at the roll bar, but that may be tolerable. -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2005
From: "Duane Zavadil" <dzavadil(at)hometownaccess.net>
Subject: Air-oil Separator FYI
I have a small reservoir, a purpose-made flat can, that catches oil from the air-oil separator (it services the crankcase vent and a wet vac pump). I drain it whenever I change oil and there is never more than an eight cup in there. It apparently has been corroding some time as it let go via a small hole in the base during a one-hour flight and it totally drained. Oil everywhere, including the exhaust and it looked pretty serious until I found the source - which was not easy with oil everywhere and the true source exhausted. I'll be putting something more corosion resistant back in. Sent via the WebMail system at hometownaccess.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 23, 2005
Subject: Re: E-Mag/P-Mag Installation requiring mounting stud replacement
I knew that sooner or later I would have to come up some pretty dumb questions in areas where my expertise is lacking.....so here goes. To those of you who have installed the E-Mag or P-Mag in place of the original impulse coupled magneto (left position) on the Lycoming, did you find that the two mounting studs (2.375" long) came out easily enough with the cam type removal tools and were the 31C-12 studs (1.5" long) that the right side position uses a good fit as replacement? I am performing the steps outlined in the E-mag installation and it is the same as performing steps 1 and 2 of Lycoming Service Bulletin 1506. I need to order these studs from Sacramento Sky Ranch and want to know if I will need the oversized ones or not. I'm new to removing steel studs from aluminum alloy and am not sure what to expect. Does Lycoming put these in with any compound? I want to ensure that I'm doing it correctly, so should I use a good heat gun on the surrounding aluminum and freeze spray on the stud? Any tips or other useful observations are greatly appreciated. TIA GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2005
From: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: Re: O360 settings
Manifold Pressure vs RPM vs Horsepower curves are in the Lycoming Owners Manual. If you do not have one, order it from Lycoming. Everything you need to know about operating your engine is in there.. Typically, 2400 RPM at 24 in Hg equals 75% Horsepower. If you want HP (in Hg) versus speed, you need to develop the data from your flight test. Richard Reynolds RV-6A O-360-A1A CS Michel Gordillo wrote: > > Any good Manifold versus RPM settings or table for an RV4 and RV8 ???? > Thank you. > Michel ( Spain) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Pedals
Date: Feb 23, 2005
> FLAMERS stow it. I've tested this on over 40 aircraft now. > Every time the owner is suprised to learn they are applying > brakes. Its a simple test, have someone rock the plane while > you try to deflect the rudder with the pedals. > > The solution is to attach a half 2" tube split lengthwise > about 6" long to the bottom of each pedal that curves around > the botton of the pedal U. A piece of 3/4 x .125 6061 angle > of the same length riveted or screwed to the bottom of the > pedal will make the attach flange. Then attach/rivet the > split tube to the 3/4 x .125 flange that now faces aft from > the bottom of the pedal. > > Since the tube is now below the brake pedal pivot pushing the > rudder pedal on that part deactivates the brakes, but you can > still rock to apply brakes easily. > > This also makes the pedal a lot more comfortable as the ball > of your toes tends to rest nicely on the "2 split tube. > > W I too spent a lot of time when building my 6A on brake/rudder pedal geometry. My solution was to remake the brake pedal side brackets. These are the brackets which attach to the sides of the brake pedals and have an appendage which drops down to fasten to the lower end of the master cylinders. I found that I had to lengthen this appendage quite a bit, which tilted the brake pedals forward quite a bit from the standard. One needs to insure that at full rudder, the brake pedal when actuated, won't hit something on the firewall. Making this length adjustable would simplify things. Alex Peterson RV6-A 574 hours (with no brakes being applied with full rudder) Maple Grove, MN http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Horizontal stab BooBoo....
Date: Feb 23, 2005
I'm not sure what you did to dent your horizontal stabilizer skin David. Ribs have to lie flat on the table with the flanges at 90 degrees. Once this is achieved with fluting pliers and hand seamer, the ribs will not deform the skin. As to removing a small dent, I have used a body hammer and dolly to good effect. Any hammer with a slightly rounded bottom so you can hit the metal without creasing it would do. For the dolly, a 2lb piece of steel with rounded ends should work. Tap the metal backed up by the dolly to remove the dent. A body shop might help but many don't do this sort of work anymore. Be aware that any time a dent is flattened, the surrounding metal is forced outward and you can see a displacement if near an edge. Also, the metal is work hardened y hammering which can lead to cracking later in it's life. If your dent is small, these effects should be unnoticable. On the other hand, if the dent is small and especially if it is on the bottom, it is likely to go unnoticed. Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2005
From: David Bobrow <david(at)bobrowpalumbo.com>
Subject: Re: O360 settings
Please remove me from all your lists On 2/23/05 7:05 AM, "Richard V. Reynolds" wrote: > > Manifold Pressure vs RPM vs Horsepower curves are in the Lycoming Owners > Manual. If > you do not have one, order it from Lycoming. Everything you need to know about > operating your engine is in there.. > > Typically, 2400 RPM at 24 in Hg equals 75% Horsepower. > > If you want HP (in Hg) versus speed, you need to develop the data from your > flight > test. > > Richard Reynolds > RV-6A O-360-A1A CS > > > Michel Gordillo wrote: > >> >> >> Any good Manifold versus RPM settings or table for an RV4 and RV8 ???? >> Thank you. >> Michel ( Spain) >> > > > > > > > david(at)bobrowpalumbo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 23, 2005
Subject: Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights?
In a message dated 2/22/05 11:42:54 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time, shempdowling(at)earthlink.net writes: I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering if I need additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure what gauge wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty small. I dont think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5 amp c.b. Should I put little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to a something smaller? Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 165 hours Chicago/Louisville Shemp/Jeff, Yes, I think that a short on one of those small wires would trip a 5 amp breaker. It is also possible that your dimmer would limit the current to less than 5 amps -- I haven't looked at the circuit. In my plane I have terminal posts (similar to the ones in the Van's wiring kit) near my clusters of gauges, and ran the individual wires from the lights in the Vans gauges directly to those terminals -- not bundled in with other wires. That way if one is overloaded, at least it would not burn into the other wires in a bundle. Then a larger wire (no. 18?) runs to the dimmer. I have 2 clusters of gauges, steam gauge style. Its pretty easy to do an experiment on the bench to see if the small wires will safely handle 5 amps. Find a 5 amp load -- resistor or lamps, etc., and connect it up using a piece of the small wire in the circuit. Use a piece several inches long and see if it gets hot after a few minutes. If you don't have a bench setup to do this, the local electronics guru could help you do it. I think that 1 amp fuses would unnecessarily complicate the wiring. Of course, all IMHO. 165 hours and now you're hooking up the lights? Or, are you getting worried about it, finally? ;-) Dan Hopper Walton, IN RV-7A (Flying when the weather lets me.) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2005
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals
There is one thing that concerns me about installing pedal extensions onto RV-8 pedals: It seems to me that a number of the -8's that have the pedal extensions have ground looped. I am aware of 2 specifically: Randy Lervold, and Jim Daniels. Perhaps a little bit of brake at full pedal deflection isn't such a bad thing, especially when one needs to stab the pedal to stop a sudden turn at low speed. Just an observation... Skylor RV-8 QB, Under Construction __________________________________ http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals
Date: Feb 23, 2005
0.20 FROM_HAS_ULINE_NUMS From: contains an underline and numbers/letters The existing -8 rudder pedal arrangement need to be revised. I found that I was almost constantly riding the brakes when on the ground. This can serve no good. Premature brake wear and the very real increased possibility of loosing control/prop strike on landing rollout if not very conscious of pushing the bottom of the pedal when wanting rudder input only. Also, IMO, I would be very suprised if the pedal extensions were a major factor in the groundloop instances mentioned. more misfortune than anything. Personally, I modified my pedal arrangement by installing a steel dowel/rod in the pedal/assembly hinge centerline. This allows me to very easily push on the rod with the ball of my foot and only get rudder input. Consciously raising of my foot and pressing with my toes easily applies brakes. It works very well and took every bit of an hour to install and cost about $5-6. One improvement would be to install this rod arrangement and use stainless tubing over the rod to act as a roller of sorts, allowing your foot to easily slide up if necessary for braking. Both would work well. Write me if you want more description or a sketch. i could probably come up with something if anyone needs it. Bryan Jones -8 715 hrs Houston >There is one thing that concerns me about installing >pedal extensions onto RV-8 pedals: It seems to me >that a number of the -8's that have the pedal >extensions have ground looped. I am aware of 2 >specifically: Randy Lervold, and Jim Daniels. Perhaps >a little bit of brake at full pedal deflection isn't >such a bad thing, especially when one needs to stab >the pedal to stop a sudden turn at low speed. > >Just an observation... > >Skylor >RV-8 QB, Under Construction ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 23, 2005
Subject: Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
In a message dated 2/22/05 11:46:49 AM Pacific Standard Time, sarg314(at)comcast.net writes: << Does it tend to sieze, or leak? >> Or break? That's the question that persuaded me to use steel fuel and oil fittings on the engine. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
Subject: stud install
Date: Feb 23, 2005
Subject: Re: RV-List: E-Mag/P-Mag Installation requiring mounting stud replacement GV, the general rule for studs in Contenintals is torque to a deck height while falling within a range of torque values. If it goes to deep, then go to the next size over. Min value for lycoming is 1/4 20 15inlb 5/16 18 25inlb 3/8 16 50inlb and that's all they give you. So if you can't reach that torque by the time the stud is installed to the proper deck height, which is going to be most of the threads in then go up one size. Remember, the engine side of the threads is different than the nut side usually. The nut side will always fit in fairly loose if the threads appear the same. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: Update: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
Date: Feb 23, 2005
I received a few replies to my canopy overhang issue. I also noticed last night that when I took off the canopy, the rails were no longer lining up with the fuselage sides. So I'm going to go back and tweak them again. After riveting the canopy brace kit and doing some light flexing of the frame, the gap is now 5/32" on the pilot side and 7/32" on the passenger side. Not good enough... Here is a reply from Van's... From Van's: ----------- "I have never heard of a tip-up frame flexing after the plexiglass is attached. The frame is fairly rigid, not like the sliders that do flex a lot. It's hard to fathom that if your frame was correct before you attached the bubble that it would get wider afterwards. I have not heard of any other tip-up frames acting this way. I didn't have the problem on mine." Thanks for those that replied... Matthew Brandes, Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit) EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 www.n523rv.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
Date: Feb 23, 2005
There is an AD to replace the aluminum fittings on the Cardinal 200Hp CS prop line with steel. ----- Original Message ----- From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? > > In a message dated 2/22/05 11:46:49 AM Pacific Standard Time, > sarg314(at)comcast.net writes: > > << Does it tend to sieze, or leak? >> > > > Or break? That's the question that persuaded me to use steel fuel and oil > fittings on the engine. > > Harry Crosby > Pleasanton, California > RV-6, flying! > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 23, 2005
Subject: Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
In a message dated 2/23/05 5:33:58 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes: There is an AD to replace the aluminum fittings on the Cardinal 200Hp CS prop line with steel. Does this apply to just the engine fittings, or to the hose ends too? Dan Hopper RV-7A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
Date: Feb 23, 2005
Here is the essence of the AD 90-04-06 R1 - Prop governor oil line. Applicability: All Textron Lycoming four cylinder piston engines equipped with a rear mounted propeller governor and external oil line, manufactured prior to January 1, 1990. Compliance: Required as indicated, unless already accomplished. To prevent oil line fracture and loss of engine oil, accomplish the following: (a) Within the next 25 hours time in service or whenever the propeller governor oil line is removed, whichever occurs first, accomplish the following: (1) Inspect the propeller governor external oil line for abrasions, cracks, and oil leaks along the length of the line and at the end attachment fittings. Inspect to determine that the two cushion type support clamps or clips are properly installed as shown in Figure 1 of Appendix 1 to this AD, and assure that sufficient clearances exist between the oil line and adjacent components. (2) If any leaks, chafing, or interference condition exists or if the two support clamps or clips are not properly installed, replace the governor oil line and its attachment end fittings with new parts even though the parts show no visible damage. Refer to Figure 1 in Appendix 1 to this AD, for parts identification, line routing, and location of support clamps or clips. The fittings in the engine case and governor must be replaced if they are damaged or are made of aluminum. (b) At the next engine overhaul or anytime the governor oil line is removed for any reason, whichever occurs first, but no later than May 1, 1992, remove any governor oil line assembly having integral aluminum connecting nuts and reinstall an oil line assembly with corresponding steel connecting nuts. Replace any engine case/governor aluminum fittings with corresponding steel fittings as shown in Figure 1 of Appendix 1 to this AD. NOTE: The attachment nuts are components of the governor oil line tube assembly and have been changed by Textron Lycoming from aluminum to steel without changing the oil line part number. Aluminum nuts may be identified by their blue colored anodized surface. The attachment nuts as well as the elbow/nipple end fittings may also be identified by using a magnet to differentiate aluminum from steel. (c) An optional method of compliance with paragraph (a) (2) and (b) is the installation of steel fittings and a fire resistant flexible hose assembly which meets the standards in FAA Technical Standard Order TSO-C53a Type D, and is installed in accordance with Appendix 2 of this AD. CAUTION IT IS MANDATORY THAT THIS FLEXIBLE HOSE BE REPLACED AT EACH OVERHAUL. Cy Galley EAA Safety Programs Editor Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? > > > In a message dated 2/23/05 5:33:58 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, > cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes: > > > There is an AD to replace the aluminum fittings on the Cardinal 200Hp CS > prop line with steel. > > > Does this apply to just the engine fittings, or to the hose ends too? > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
Date: Feb 23, 2005
Hi Dan, I think the pressure in the prop governor lines is somewhat higher than normal engine oil pressure the Steel hose fittings would be advised as well. The flexible governor oil line that was professionally made and tagged that I have is fitted with steel. Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? > > > In a message dated 2/23/05 5:33:58 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, > cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes: > > > There is an AD to replace the aluminum fittings on the Cardinal 200Hp CS > prop line with steel. > > > Does this apply to just the engine fittings, or to the hose ends too? > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net>
Subject:
Date: Feb 23, 2005
Does anyone know how to get ahold of Todd Rudberg for an 8 stick bend. Does it seem to be more comforatible? Thanks Mark Rose N137MR 8A wiring. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject:
Date: Feb 23, 2005
Todd's address is todd(at)rvwoody.com. Yes, I think the bent stick is definitely more comfortable for me. I am not sure that he is still having them done. Terry RV-8A #80729 Finishing Does anyone know how to get ahold of Todd Rudberg for an 8 stick bend. Does it seem to be more comforatible? Thanks Mark Rose N137MR 8A wiring. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2005
From: Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals
Yes, I worried about it too when I was building, but it turned out to be a total non-issue. However you set it up, it will be different than what you are used to and you'll have to adapt. In my -6, I installed the rudder and brake pedals per the book - vertical with no modifications, and I've never had a problem. (and my brake pedals only move about 1/8") It's felt natural right from the start, and I'm sure you'll agree that it's even more important in a taildragger than a nosedragger. Dave -6 So Cal Skylor Piper wrote: > >There is one thing that concerns me about installing >pedal extensions onto RV-8 pedals: It seems to me >that a number of the -8's that have the pedal >extensions have ground looped. I am aware of 2 >specifically: Randy Lervold, and Jim Daniels. Perhaps >a little bit of brake at full pedal deflection isn't >such a bad thing, especially when one needs to stab >the pedal to stop a sudden turn at low speed. > >Just an observation... > >Skylor >RV-8 QB, Under Construction > > > >__________________________________ >http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net>
Subject: Stick bend
Date: Feb 23, 2005
Thank you for the information Terry. I have sent him an email. Mark Rose ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals
Date: Feb 23, 2005
The RV-8 pedal assy projects upward from the cockpit floor and its design is unique in the RV series (AFAIK). They have no horizontal steel tubing at the base of the pedal which would prevent the problem described. Based on my experience, the std "hanging" (-4, -6, -9) rudder pedal/brake action is very good in comparison to a std design -8. Bryan -8 Houston >Yes, I worried about it too when I was building, but it turned out to be >a total non-issue. However you set it up, it will be different than what >you are used to and you'll have to adapt. In my -6, I installed the >rudder and brake pedals per the book - vertical with no modifications, >and I've never had a problem. (and my brake pedals only move about 1/8") >It's felt natural right from the start, and I'm sure you'll agree that >it's even more important in a taildragger than a nosedragger. > >Dave -6 So Cal > >Skylor Piper wrote: > > > > >There is one thing that concerns me about installing > >pedal extensions onto RV-8 pedals: It seems to me > >that a number of the -8's that have the pedal > >extensions have ground looped. I am aware of 2 > >specifically: Randy Lervold, and Jim Daniels. Perhaps > >a little bit of brake at full pedal deflection isn't > >such a bad thing, especially when one needs to stab > >the pedal to stop a sudden turn at low speed. > > > >Just an observation... > > > >Skylor > >RV-8 QB, Under Construction > > > > > > > >__________________________________ > >http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: Alodine after riveting
Date: Feb 23, 2005
I have a plane that was mostly completed by another builder and not Alodined. The paint dealer where I bought my Imron recommended Alodining before I prime. I am concerned that if I alodine the outside skins that are already rivited that the chemicals may get between the skins and between the skins and the rivets and not be rinsed out completely causing corrossion. Is this something that I don't need to worry about or should I just Scotchbrite the plane and not try to Alodine it now that it is rivited? Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Alodine after riveting
Date: Feb 23, 2005
There are plenty of paint shops which alodine entire airframes (the external parts, at least) in preparation for repainting aircraft. I've never heard of any problems resulting from this. One thing to check for is whether it is beneficial to alodine underneath your chosen primer. Alodining prior to some primers is recommended, but for others, the spec sheets indicate it is a waste of time. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> Subject: RV-List: Alodine after riveting > > I have a plane that was mostly completed by another builder and not > Alodined. The paint dealer where I bought my Imron recommended Alodining > before I prime. I am concerned that if I alodine the outside skins that > are > already rivited that the chemicals may get between the skins and between > the > skins and the rivets and not be rinsed out completely causing corrossion. > Is this something that I don't need to worry about or should I just > Scotchbrite the plane and not try to Alodine it now that it is rivited? > > Brian Kraut > Engineering Alternatives, Inc. > www.engalt.com > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List:
Date: Feb 23, 2005
Todd's address is todd(at)rvwoody.com. Yes, I think the bent stick is definitely more comfortable for me. I am not sure that he is still having them done. Terry RV-8A #80729 Finishing Terry et al: It has been suggested to me that one needs to approach the bent stick with some care because the placement of the pilot's hand and forearm well aft of the stick pivot point tends to enhance the tendency to PIO. Increasing g-loads tend to increase the pull on the stick. Higher loads than intended may result. It should be manageable but best be aware. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
Date: Feb 23, 2005
Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? Hi Dan, I think the pressure in the prop governor lines is somewhat higher than normal engine oil pressure the Steel hose fittings would be advised as well. The flexible governor oil line that was professionally made and tagged that I have is fitted with steel. Jim in Kelowna Jim/Dan: Years ago, Pard Diver of Meyers Aircraft told me that they were not permitted, in the design of a TC's aircraft, to use aluminum bulkhead fittings in the firewall. I went ahead and used aluminum fittings because steel was heavier and cost several times as much as aluminum. Fortunately I have not had an engine fire but I realize aluminum will happily join in a good blaze. For that matter, the aluminum heat valve in my firewall would last almost no time at all before presenting me with a 2" diameter torch not far above my right foot. The Aero News Network a couple of days ago described an EAAer who has built a SS valve and established testing facilities for that and other firewall penetrations. If anyone knows who that worthy is, I would like to contact him. I would change out the valve on the -4 tout de suite. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
Date: Feb 23, 2005
Hi Gordon, I used the Van's heat valve. However, I did replace the heat valve door, it's actuating arm and the hinge with stainless steel parts. The rest of the unit might melt off but the door will still remain closed for an extended period of time. Hopefully that would buy some time. That is of course is if the pilot has the presence of mind and the time to close the heat door {[B-[! Changing out the parts is not very difficult, drill out a few rivets make copies of the parts and reassemble. Stay cool, Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? > > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? > > > Hi Dan, > > I think the pressure in the prop governor lines is somewhat higher than > normal engine oil pressure the Steel hose fittings would be advised as > well. > The flexible governor oil line that was professionally made and tagged > that > I have is fitted with steel. > > Jim in Kelowna > > Jim/Dan: Years ago, Pard Diver of Meyers Aircraft told me that they > were not permitted, in the design of a TC's aircraft, to use aluminum > bulkhead fittings in the firewall. I went ahead and used aluminum > fittings because steel was heavier and cost several times as much as > aluminum. Fortunately I have not had an engine fire but I realize > aluminum will happily join in a good blaze. For that matter, the > aluminum heat valve in my firewall would last almost no time at all > before presenting me with a 2" diameter torch not far above my right > foot. The Aero News Network a couple of days ago described an EAAer who > has built a SS valve and established testing facilities for that and > other firewall penetrations. If anyone knows who that worthy is, I > would like to contact him. I would change out the valve on the -4 tout > de suite. > > Gordon Comfort > N363GC > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Gear Leg Shimmy Damper
Date: Feb 24, 2005
I am planning to install wooden gear leg shimmy dampers on my RV-4 before I intall the gear leg fairings. What size piece of wood do you need? I have a 1" square hardwood block that is the length of the gear leg and have contoured the leading edge to fit snuggly against the gear leg. I also have tapered the aft edge so not to interfere with the fairing. I plan to fiberglass this to the leg. Is this enough to do the job or do I need something bigger? Jerry Isler RV4 N455J Donalsonville, GA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Subject: Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
Cy, Because I have a front mounted prop governor with no hose, this AD doesn't apply to my engine. What I am concerned about is the two hoses that connect from the engine to my firewall mounted oil cooler. I did put steel fittings in the cooler, but the engine came with fittings and I'm not sure which they are. I need to check. However, I do know that the hose ends were made of aluminum -- like those supplied from Vans. Do these need to be steel? I installed the aluminum hose ends on the hoses myself, and pressure tested them to 1000 psi. Thanks, Dan Hopper Walton, IN RV-7A (Flying since last July) In a message dated 2/23/05 6:15:21 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes: Here is the essence of the AD 90-04-06 R1 - Prop governor oil line. Applicability: All Textron Lycoming four cylinder piston engines equipped with a rear mounted propeller governor and external oil line, manufactured prior to January 1, 1990. (c) An optional method of compliance with paragraph (a) (2) and (b) is the installation of steel fittings and a fire resistant flexible hose assembly which meets the standards in FAA Technical Standard Order TSO-C53a Type D, and is installed in accordance with Appendix 2 of this AD. CAUTION IT IS MANDATORY THAT THIS FLEXIBLE HOSE BE REPLACED AT EACH OVERHAUL. Cy Galley EAA Safety Programs Editor Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? > --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com > > > In a message dated 2/23/05 5:33:58 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, > cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes: > > > There is an AD to replace the aluminum fittings on the Cardinal 200Hp CS > prop line with steel. > > > Does this apply to just the engine fittings, or to the hose ends too? > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Subject: Re: Gear Leg Shimmy Damper
Jerry; That is the way I did the fairings on our early (#126 ) RV-4,then I put on 5 or 6 plies of bi-directional glas. I shaped the wood to streamline shape and didn't use metal on the gear legs. Our first one had short gear legs and needed the dampers,our second one has long gear legs and hasn't needed them. My opinion only Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Callender" <tcallender(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
Date: Feb 24, 2005
>>an EAAer who >> has built a SS valve and established testing facilities for that and >> other firewall penetrations. If anyone knows who that worthy is, I >> would like to contact him. I would change out the valve on the -4 tout >> de suite. >> Gordon Comfort >> N363GC Gordon, try http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html Tom Callender RV9 N793JT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard McBride" <rickrv8(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Bryan, The early -6 had a floor mounted arrangement not much different than the ground adjustable -8. My -6, sn20404 had the very same problem as my gound adjustable -8 has, only worse. I addressed the problem on my -6 by installing a modified pedal. On my -8 I fabricated the extensions per Randy Lervold's web site. This modification has worked well. Rick McBride RV-6 20404 RV-8 80027 >From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals >Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 20:19:05 -0600 > > >The RV-8 pedal assy projects upward from the cockpit floor and its design >is >unique in the RV series (AFAIK). They have no horizontal steel tubing at >the >base of the pedal which would prevent the problem described. Based on my >experience, the std "hanging" (-4, -6, -9) rudder pedal/brake action is >very >good in comparison to a std design -8. > >Bryan -8 >Houston > > > >Yes, I worried about it too when I was building, but it turned out to be > >a total non-issue. However you set it up, it will be different than what > >you are used to and you'll have to adapt. In my -6, I installed the > >rudder and brake pedals per the book - vertical with no modifications, > >and I've never had a problem. (and my brake pedals only move about 1/8") > >It's felt natural right from the start, and I'm sure you'll agree that > >it's even more important in a taildragger than a nosedragger. > > > >Dave -6 So Cal > > > >Skylor Piper wrote: > > > > > > > >There is one thing that concerns me about installing > > >pedal extensions onto RV-8 pedals: It seems to me > > >that a number of the -8's that have the pedal > > >extensions have ground looped. I am aware of 2 > > >specifically: Randy Lervold, and Jim Daniels. Perhaps > > >a little bit of brake at full pedal deflection isn't > > >such a bad thing, especially when one needs to stab > > >the pedal to stop a sudden turn at low speed. > > > > > >Just an observation... > > > > > >Skylor > > >RV-8 QB, Under Construction > > > > > > > > > > > >__________________________________ > > >http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2005
From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List:
Mark, I believe Todd quit doing the stick bends and possibly took down his "shingle"? This was the last email address I had for him: rv8list(at)rvwoody.com Regards, Bob Missing Subject: header, Mark Rose wrote: > > Does anyone know how to get ahold of Todd Rudberg for an 8 stick bend. Does it seem to be more comforatible? Thanks Mark Rose N137MR 8A wiring. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject: O-320 carb problem
Date: Feb 24, 2005
My 6a lost power and started to die completly on takeoff the other day, luckily happened just befor liftoff. had been running fine, but i had experienced a roughness that cleared right up one other time. I got it to the taxi way and got it running again, and did high speed taxi and then takeoff drop back, running fine, so took off and hightailed it for home. Pulled the cowel and found carb bowl screws loose. 3 hrs had them tight and fixed. then started up and found feed pump leaking gas around the stem, stem bearing wallowed out. The big question, has anyone done an OH with a kit, or is it best to spend the big bucks for an OH unit? Charlie heathco Atl. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
Date: Feb 24, 2005
The Bellanca corporation changed out ALL the heater-vents from aluminum to steel at the insistance of the CAA. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? > > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? > > > Hi Dan, > > I think the pressure in the prop governor lines is somewhat higher than > normal engine oil pressure the Steel hose fittings would be advised as > well. > The flexible governor oil line that was professionally made and tagged > that > I have is fitted with steel. > > Jim in Kelowna > > Jim/Dan: Years ago, Pard Diver of Meyers Aircraft told me that they > were not permitted, in the design of a TC's aircraft, to use aluminum > bulkhead fittings in the firewall. I went ahead and used aluminum > fittings because steel was heavier and cost several times as much as > aluminum. Fortunately I have not had an engine fire but I realize > aluminum will happily join in a good blaze. For that matter, the > aluminum heat valve in my firewall would last almost no time at all > before presenting me with a 2" diameter torch not far above my right > foot. The Aero News Network a couple of days ago described an EAAer who > has built a SS valve and established testing facilities for that and > other firewall penetrations. If anyone knows who that worthy is, I > would like to contact him. I would change out the valve on the -4 tout > de suite. > > Gordon Comfort > N363GC > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
Date: Feb 24, 2005
A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that has great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has fluctuations at > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! Anyone else ever experience this? Any ideas as to what might be happening here? We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as 0.5 PSI but would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) James ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2005
From: Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Gear Leg Shimmy Damper
Hardwood might be a little too stiff. My plans called for "window molding" which is what I used and I've never had a shimmy. I used 2 pieces back to back and did not have to do any trimming - they fit perfectly on the back of the gear leg. Dave -6 So Cal EAA Technical Counselor Jerry Isler wrote: > >I am planning to install wooden gear leg shimmy dampers on my RV-4 before I >intall the gear leg fairings. What size piece of wood do you need? I have a >1" square hardwood block that is the length of the gear leg and have >contoured the leading edge to fit snuggly against the gear leg. I also have >tapered the aft edge so not to interfere with the fairing. I plan to >fiberglass this to the leg. Is this enough to do the job or do I need >something bigger? > >Jerry Isler >RV4 N455J >Donalsonville, GA > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2005
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Gear Leg Shimmy Damper
I think Van's recommends flying with out the stiffeners first to see if there really needed. > >Hardwood might be a little too stiff. My plans called for "window >molding" which is what I used and I've never had a shimmy. I used 2 >pieces back to back and did not have to do any trimming - they fit >perfectly on the back of the gear leg. > >Dave -6 So Cal >EAA Technical Counselor > > >Jerry Isler wrote: > > > > >I am planning to install wooden gear leg shimmy dampers on my RV-4 before I > >intall the gear leg fairings. What size piece of wood do you need? I have a > >1" square hardwood block that is the length of the gear leg and have > >contoured the leading edge to fit snuggly against the gear leg. I also have > >tapered the aft edge so not to interfere with the fairing. I plan to > >fiberglass this to the leg. Is this enough to do the job or do I need > >something bigger? > > > >Jerry Isler > >RV4 N455J > >Donalsonville, GA > > > > > > > > > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
Date: Feb 24, 2005
James, there are several possibility 1. one possibility is he has a restriction in the fuel line at some point. Its big enough to flow fuel at lower flow rates without a (much) of a pressure drop, but once your fuel flow exceed a certain limit the pressure drop starts to increase. This could be a pinched line, a overly restrictive fuel filter, smaller opening in a fuel line fitting, etc. 2. Another possibility is the fuel pump, hard to say without further data. 3. If a carburetor is used, then the float bowl pin which pushes against the fuel inlet may not be functioning properly - although if the fuel pressure was dropping because of this, there would probably a flood of fuel into the engine. More data/information needed on the engine and the operational regime where this happens. Ed A ----- Original Message ----- From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... > > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that has > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has fluctuations at > > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! > > > Anyone else ever experience this? > > > Any ideas as to what might be happening here? > > > We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as 0.5 PSI but > would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) > > > James > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Thanks Ed. I thought about a flow restriction and about the alignment of the vent outlets. We changed the mechanical fuel pump (for another new one) as there was also a case when the boost was turned off, fuel pressure went to "zero" in flight. That seemed to fix that particular issue. This was observed with the boost pump ON. The engine seemed to operate just fine throughout all of this. The gauge was steady at 2400 RPM, fluctuated at higher, started down at even higher and went back to steady when RPM taken back to 2400 or less. So I *assume* that part is fine. Will look at vents when I get to airport again and suggest a checking of the lines (again) for good flow. We checked flow before changing the mechanical pump. Again, thanks. James | -----Original Message----- | From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson | Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 2:04 PM | To: rv-list(at)matronics.com | Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | | | James, there are several possibility | | 1. one possibility is he has a restriction in the fuel line at some | point. | Its big enough to flow fuel at lower flow rates without a (much) of a | pressure drop, but once your fuel flow exceed a certain limit the | pressure | drop starts to increase. This could be a pinched line, a overly | restrictive | fuel filter, smaller opening in a fuel line fitting, etc. | | 2. Another possibility is the fuel pump, hard to say without further | data. | | 3. If a carburetor is used, then the float bowl pin which pushes against | the fuel inlet may not be functioning properly - although if the fuel | pressure was dropping because of this, there would probably a flood of | fuel | into the engine. | | More data/information needed on the engine and the operational regime | where | this happens. | | Ed A | | ----- Original Message ----- | From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> | To: | Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | | | | > | > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that has | > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has | fluctuations | at | > > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! | > | > | > Anyone else ever experience this? | > | > | > Any ideas as to what might be happening here? | > | > | > We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as 0.5 | PSI | but | > would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) | > | > | > James | > | > | | | | | ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2005
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
James, I certainly would not want to discourage you guys from looking for a genuine problem, but what you have described is very, very common with carbed RVs. I have seen fuel pressure on my O-320-powered RV-6 vary from zero to six lbs, and there is no pattern to the variations. This characteristic of our fuel systems has been discussed multiple times over the years and seems to be "normal". Apparently there is considerable hysteresis in the pressure senders and they have difficulty accurately reporting very low pressure. The problem comes in distinguishing between the well-known RV fuel pressure weirdness and a real problem. But obviously, if the engine is performing properly at all times, there can't be a significant fuel pressure problem and is probably a gage anomaly. Sam Buchanan =============================== James E. Clark wrote: > > Thanks Ed. > > I thought about a flow restriction and about the alignment of the vent > outlets. > > We changed the mechanical fuel pump (for another new one) as there was also > a case when the boost was turned off, fuel pressure went to "zero" in > flight. That seemed to fix that particular issue. > > This was observed with the boost pump ON. > > The engine seemed to operate just fine throughout all of this. > > The gauge was steady at 2400 RPM, fluctuated at higher, started down at even > higher and went back to steady when RPM taken back to 2400 or less. So I > *assume* that part is fine. > > Will look at vents when I get to airport again and suggest a checking of the > lines (again) for good flow. We checked flow before changing the mechanical > pump. > > Again, thanks. > > James > > > | -----Original Message----- > | From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > | server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson > | Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 2:04 PM > | To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > | Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... > | > | > | James, there are several possibility > | > | 1. one possibility is he has a restriction in the fuel line at some > | point. > | Its big enough to flow fuel at lower flow rates without a (much) of a > | pressure drop, but once your fuel flow exceed a certain limit the > | pressure > | drop starts to increase. This could be a pinched line, a overly > | restrictive > | fuel filter, smaller opening in a fuel line fitting, etc. > | > | 2. Another possibility is the fuel pump, hard to say without further > | data. > | > | 3. If a carburetor is used, then the float bowl pin which pushes against > | the fuel inlet may not be functioning properly - although if the fuel > | pressure was dropping because of this, there would probably a flood of > | fuel > | into the engine. > | > | More data/information needed on the engine and the operational regime > | where > | this happens. > | > | Ed A > | > | ----- Original Message ----- > | From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> > | To: > | Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... > | > | > | > | > > | > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that has > | > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has > | fluctuations > | at > | > > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! > | > > | > > | > Anyone else ever experience this? > | > > | > > | > Any ideas as to what might be happening here? > | > > | > > | > We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as 0.5 > | PSI > | but > | > would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) > | > > | > > | > James ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2005
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: N331RD First Flight
RV Listers, This morning, after 5 years and 4500+ hours of building I flew RV-6A N331RD from Kissimmee Airport. Though long anticipated and producing much anxiety, it was almost a non event. It behaved exactly as promised and like the 6A that Jan Bussell gave me transition training in a couple of weeks ago. The building effort was worth it and I highly reccommend staying with all the fun and not so fun times of building. Regards to all, Richard Dudley ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
Date: Feb 24, 2005
My system pressure runs up and down for no apparent reason just as Sam describes. My concern is whether or not it is just indication, or the actual pressure that is fluctuating. I have a carb now, and an Ellison waiting to go on the engine, but I'm reluctant to install it as it is more presssure sensitive than a float-type carburetor. SCott in VAncouver ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... > > James, I certainly would not want to discourage you guys from looking > for a genuine problem, but what you have described is very, very common > with carbed RVs. > > I have seen fuel pressure on my O-320-powered RV-6 vary from zero to six > lbs, and there is no pattern to the variations. This characteristic of > our fuel systems has been discussed multiple times over the years and > seems to be "normal". Apparently there is considerable hysteresis in the > pressure senders and they have difficulty accurately reporting very low > pressure. > > The problem comes in distinguishing between the well-known RV fuel > pressure weirdness and a real problem. But obviously, if the engine is > performing properly at all times, there can't be a significant fuel > pressure problem and is probably a gage anomaly. > > Sam Buchanan > > =============================== > > James E. Clark wrote: >> >> >> Thanks Ed. >> >> I thought about a flow restriction and about the alignment of the vent >> outlets. >> >> We changed the mechanical fuel pump (for another new one) as there was >> also >> a case when the boost was turned off, fuel pressure went to "zero" in >> flight. That seemed to fix that particular issue. >> >> This was observed with the boost pump ON. >> >> The engine seemed to operate just fine throughout all of this. >> >> The gauge was steady at 2400 RPM, fluctuated at higher, started down at >> even >> higher and went back to steady when RPM taken back to 2400 or less. So I >> *assume* that part is fine. >> >> Will look at vents when I get to airport again and suggest a checking of >> the >> lines (again) for good flow. We checked flow before changing the >> mechanical >> pump. >> >> Again, thanks. >> >> James >> >> >> | -----Original Message----- >> | From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >> | server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson >> | Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 2:04 PM >> | To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> | Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... >> | >> >> | >> | James, there are several possibility >> | >> | 1. one possibility is he has a restriction in the fuel line at some >> | point. >> | Its big enough to flow fuel at lower flow rates without a (much) of a >> | pressure drop, but once your fuel flow exceed a certain limit the >> | pressure >> | drop starts to increase. This could be a pinched line, a overly >> | restrictive >> | fuel filter, smaller opening in a fuel line fitting, etc. >> | >> | 2. Another possibility is the fuel pump, hard to say without further >> | data. >> | >> | 3. If a carburetor is used, then the float bowl pin which pushes >> against >> | the fuel inlet may not be functioning properly - although if the fuel >> | pressure was dropping because of this, there would probably a flood of >> | fuel >> | into the engine. >> | >> | More data/information needed on the engine and the operational regime >> | where >> | this happens. >> | >> | Ed A >> | >> | ----- Original Message ----- >> | From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> >> | To: >> | Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... >> | >> | >> | >> | > >> | > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that >> has >> | > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has >> | fluctuations >> | at >> | > > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! >> | > >> | > >> | > Anyone else ever experience this? >> | > >> | > >> | > Any ideas as to what might be happening here? >> | > >> | > >> | > We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as 0.5 >> | PSI >> | but >> | > would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) >> | > >> | > >> | > James > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: N331RD First Flight
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Richard, CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A >From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: N331RD First Flight >Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 15:35:11 -0500 > > >RV Listers, > >This morning, after 5 years and 4500+ hours of building I flew RV-6A >N331RD from Kissimmee Airport. Though long anticipated and producing >much anxiety, it was almost a non event. It behaved exactly as promised >and like the 6A that Jan Bussell gave me transition training in a couple >of weeks ago. The building effort was worth it and I highly reccommend >staying with all the fun and not so fun times of building. > >Regards to all, > >Richard Dudley ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 24, 2005
From: Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
It could also be that at 2400 the pump is putting out it's max pressure. If so, then when you ask for more power the pressure will have to drop to give the flow that's necessary. I don't have first hand knowledge of carb fuel pressure problems since I have FI, but weirdness seems to be the rule. Dave James E. Clark wrote: > >Thanks Ed. > >I thought about a flow restriction and about the alignment of the vent >outlets. > >We changed the mechanical fuel pump (for another new one) as there was also >a case when the boost was turned off, fuel pressure went to "zero" in >flight. That seemed to fix that particular issue. > >This was observed with the boost pump ON. > >The engine seemed to operate just fine throughout all of this. > >The gauge was steady at 2400 RPM, fluctuated at higher, started down at even >higher and went back to steady when RPM taken back to 2400 or less. So I >*assume* that part is fine. > >Will look at vents when I get to airport again and suggest a checking of the >lines (again) for good flow. We checked flow before changing the mechanical >pump. > >Again, thanks. > >James > > >| -----Original Message----- >| From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >| server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson >| Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 2:04 PM >| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >| Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... >| >| >| James, there are several possibility >| >| 1. one possibility is he has a restriction in the fuel line at some >| point. >| Its big enough to flow fuel at lower flow rates without a (much) of a >| pressure drop, but once your fuel flow exceed a certain limit the >| pressure >| drop starts to increase. This could be a pinched line, a overly >| restrictive >| fuel filter, smaller opening in a fuel line fitting, etc. >| >| 2. Another possibility is the fuel pump, hard to say without further >| data. >| >| 3. If a carburetor is used, then the float bowl pin which pushes against >| the fuel inlet may not be functioning properly - although if the fuel >| pressure was dropping because of this, there would probably a flood of >| fuel >| into the engine. >| >| More data/information needed on the engine and the operational regime >| where >| this happens. >| >| Ed A >| >| ----- Original Message ----- >| From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> >| To: >| Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... >| >| >| >| > >| > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that has >| > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has >| fluctuations >| at >| > > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! >| > >| > >| > Anyone else ever experience this? >| > >| > >| > Any ideas as to what might be happening here? >| > >| > >| > We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as 0.5 >| PSI >| but >| > would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) >| > >| > >| > James >| > >| > >| >| >| >| >| > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <scott@keadle.com> with HTTP/1.1;
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Subject: Todd Rudberg's email address
Todd Rudberg's new email address is ToddR(at)RVWoody.com. I just sent him a stick from Van's a couple of days ago. I think it will be more comfortable. Scott Keadle KRUQ Salisbury, NC RV-8 N844RF ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <scott@keadle.com> with HTTP/1.1;
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Subject: Todd Rudberg's address has changed
RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" Todd's address is todd(at)rvwoody.com. Yes, I think the bent stick is definitely more comfortable for me. I am not sure that he is still having them done. Hi Terry, please note that Todd Rudberg's email address has changed to toddR(at)rvwoody.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Thanks Sam. Strangely enough, I have not seen this on our RV6. It too has O-320 (but a fixed pitch Ed Sterba wood prop). I have seen fuel pressure drop in a twin at high altitude when the boost pumps were not on but this one is strange. Also, I have flown regularly with a friend whose fuel pressure gauge always seems to be close to 1! (I think he has a gauge problem as it is not the one from Van's). At altitude, over an airport, we will slowly inch up on what happens in the limit for this. If at max RPM (2600), it goes no lower than 3 PSI, then maybe it is just one of those things. On the other hand if it sputters at 2550 then we have something serious to track down. Another theory of mine: At >2400 in straight and level flight, a certain harmonic is reached and there are some cavitations somewhere. Just another idea. Again, thanks. James | -----Original Message----- | From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan | Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 3:34 PM | To: rv-list(at)matronics.com | Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | | | James, I certainly would not want to discourage you guys from looking | for a genuine problem, but what you have described is very, very common | with carbed RVs. | | I have seen fuel pressure on my O-320-powered RV-6 vary from zero to six | lbs, and there is no pattern to the variations. This characteristic of | our fuel systems has been discussed multiple times over the years and | seems to be "normal". Apparently there is considerable hysteresis in the | pressure senders and they have difficulty accurately reporting very low | pressure. | | The problem comes in distinguishing between the well-known RV fuel | pressure weirdness and a real problem. But obviously, if the engine is | performing properly at all times, there can't be a significant fuel | pressure problem and is probably a gage anomaly. | | Sam Buchanan | | =============================== | | James E. Clark wrote: | | > | > Thanks Ed. | > | > I thought about a flow restriction and about the alignment of the vent | > outlets. | > | > We changed the mechanical fuel pump (for another new one) as there was | also | > a case when the boost was turned off, fuel pressure went to "zero" in | > flight. That seemed to fix that particular issue. | > | > This was observed with the boost pump ON. | > | > The engine seemed to operate just fine throughout all of this. | > | > The gauge was steady at 2400 RPM, fluctuated at higher, started down at | even | > higher and went back to steady when RPM taken back to 2400 or less. So | I | > *assume* that part is fine. | > | > Will look at vents when I get to airport again and suggest a checking | of the | > lines (again) for good flow. We checked flow before changing the | mechanical | > pump. | > | > Again, thanks. | > | > James | > | > | > | -----Original Message----- | > | From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | > | server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson | > | Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 2:04 PM | > | To: rv-list(at)matronics.com | > | Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | > | | | > | | > | James, there are several possibility | > | | > | 1. one possibility is he has a restriction in the fuel line at | some | > | point. | > | Its big enough to flow fuel at lower flow rates without a (much) of | a | > | pressure drop, but once your fuel flow exceed a certain limit the | > | pressure | > | drop starts to increase. This could be a pinched line, a overly | > | restrictive | > | fuel filter, smaller opening in a fuel line fitting, etc. | > | | > | 2. Another possibility is the fuel pump, hard to say without | further | > | data. | > | | > | 3. If a carburetor is used, then the float bowl pin which pushes | against | > | the fuel inlet may not be functioning properly - although if the | fuel | > | pressure was dropping because of this, there would probably a flood | of | > | fuel | > | into the engine. | > | | > | More data/information needed on the engine and the operational | regime | > | where | > | this happens. | > | | > | Ed A | > | | > | ----- Original Message ----- | > | From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> | > | To: | > | Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | > | | > | | > | | > | > | > | > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) | that has | > | > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has | > | fluctuations | > | at | > | > > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! | > | > | > | > | > | > Anyone else ever experience this? | > | > | > | > | > | > Any ideas as to what might be happening here? | > | > | > | > | > | > We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as | 0.5 | > | PSI | > | but | > | > would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) | > | > | > | > | > | > James | | | | | ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Understood. This occurred though with both mechanical and electric boost on, in straight and level flight at about 2000 ft. Hmmmmmmm. Thanks, James | -----Original Message----- | From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Bristol | Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 4:38 PM | To: rv-list(at)matronics.com | Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | | | It could also be that at 2400 the pump is putting out it's max pressure. | If so, then when you ask for more power the pressure will have to drop | to give the flow that's necessary. | I don't have first hand knowledge of carb fuel pressure problems since | I have FI, but weirdness seems to be the rule. | | Dave | | James E. Clark wrote: | | | > | >Thanks Ed. | > | >I thought about a flow restriction and about the alignment of the vent | >outlets. | > | >We changed the mechanical fuel pump (for another new one) as there was | also | >a case when the boost was turned off, fuel pressure went to "zero" in | >flight. That seemed to fix that particular issue. | > | >This was observed with the boost pump ON. | > | >The engine seemed to operate just fine throughout all of this. | > | >The gauge was steady at 2400 RPM, fluctuated at higher, started down at | even | >higher and went back to steady when RPM taken back to 2400 or less. So I | >*assume* that part is fine. | > | >Will look at vents when I get to airport again and suggest a checking of | the | >lines (again) for good flow. We checked flow before changing the | mechanical | >pump. | > | >Again, thanks. | > | >James | > | > | >| -----Original Message----- | >| From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | >| server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson | >| Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 2:04 PM | >| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com | >| Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | >| | | >| | >| James, there are several possibility | >| | >| 1. one possibility is he has a restriction in the fuel line at some | >| point. | >| Its big enough to flow fuel at lower flow rates without a (much) of a | >| pressure drop, but once your fuel flow exceed a certain limit the | >| pressure | >| drop starts to increase. This could be a pinched line, a overly | >| restrictive | >| fuel filter, smaller opening in a fuel line fitting, etc. | >| | >| 2. Another possibility is the fuel pump, hard to say without further | >| data. | >| | >| 3. If a carburetor is used, then the float bowl pin which pushes | against | >| the fuel inlet may not be functioning properly - although if the fuel | >| pressure was dropping because of this, there would probably a flood | of | >| fuel | >| into the engine. | >| | >| More data/information needed on the engine and the operational regime | >| where | >| this happens. | >| | >| Ed A | >| | >| ----- Original Message ----- | >| From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> | >| To: | >| Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | >| | >| | >| | >| > | >| > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that | has | >| > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has | >| fluctuations | >| at | >| > > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! | >| > | >| > | >| > Anyone else ever experience this? | >| > | >| > | >| > Any ideas as to what might be happening here? | >| > | >| > | >| > We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as | 0.5 | >| PSI | >| but | >| > would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) | >| > | >| > | >| > James | >| > | >| > | >| | >| | >| | >| | >| | > | > | > | > | | | | | ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
Date: Feb 24, 2005
I have built 2 RV6A, One O-320, One O-360 Both have fuel pressure fluctuations between 0 and 5psi at random, no rpm/altitude/pitch consistency. Everything I have heard from Vans and others says that's "normal" I don't like that answer but in 700 hrs it's not caused any problem. However the boost pump always brings it back up. P.S. Note to Scott Jackson, sorry I have not notified you as I have been sick since Saturday and I can't find your email,but your parts were shipped Monday. John Furey ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dmedema(at)att.net
Subject: EGTs and Electronic Ignition
Date: Feb 24, 2005
I've been flying with our new engine monitor and performed an interesting test yesterday. After run-up, I stabilized the airplane at 1500 RPM and let the EGT temperatures stabilize. I then ran the airplane on the left mag only and the electronic ignition only and let the temperatures stabilize each time. The data below shows that the electronic ignition does a much better job getting the fuel burned than the mag, but it's definitely a win to have both on. Ground run at 1500 RPM Ignition Status Cyl Both on Left L-delta Right R-delta 1 1182 1320 +138 1223 +41 2 1172 1320 +148 1191 +19 3 1193 1319 +126 1260 +67 4 1140 1312 +172 1175 +35 The deltas are the difference between the mag (or EI) alone and when both are on. Another observation is that the EGTs really even out with only the mag on. Not sure what that is telling me. Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM Dynon Avionics ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dmedema(at)att.net
Subject: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D
Date: Feb 24, 2005
As I mentioned on my previous post, I've been testing our new engine monitor. In addition to the on-the-ground test I described in my last post, I also did some in-air work looking at leaning at 3000', 5000', and 7000'. My plane has an O320-E2D with a Sensenich fixed pitch prop. I have a Slick mag on the left ignition and a Lightspeed on the right side. The test was to stabilize the plane at each of the 3 altitudes with full-rich mixture and 2400 RPM. I then recorded the EGTs at this condition. I then slowly leaned the mixture to where the engine roughened and then richened just enough to get it to run smooth. I let it stabilize and recorded the temperatures. Here is the data: 3000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1220 1387 +167 2 1284 1421 +137 3 1364 1419 +55 4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st. 5000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1207 1358 +151 2 1229 1383 +154 3 1332 1390 +58 4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st. 7000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1137 1353 +216 2 1170 1381 +211 3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st. 4 1321 1373 +52 As you can see, cylinders 3 and 4 seem to be running much leaner than 1 and 2 when the mixture is full rich. I observe that the EGTs really even out when I lean the mixture. I note that on the ground at 1500 RPM full-rich, all my EGTs were in a fairly normal band from 1140-1193. Any of the engine gurus (or not so gurus) have any thoughts about what I'm seeing? Has anyone else done a test like this? If so, can you post your results? Thanks, Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM Dynon Avionics ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? If anyone knows who that worthy is, I >>would like to contact him. I would change out the valve on the -4 >>tout de suite. Gordon Comfort >> N363GC Gordon, try http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html Tom Callender RV9 N793JT Tom: Good tip. Thank you very much. Gordon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Headset audio wire broken at phone jack
Date: Feb 24, 2005
List, I must have a broken wire in ear tone side of my headsets. I can wiggle the wire and cause on/off sound. Because the wire is broken within the molded heat shrink from the wire to the phone jack, I don't want to rush in and cut it open to repair it. Are there any tricks to opening it up and putting it back together keeping the whole thing neat? Or is this one of those types of things everyone does regardless of the mess and just not worry about it? Or third, send it to the factory for repair? I'd appreciate all comments. Tom Barnes Buffalo Grove, IL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Looks pretty normal to me. Fuel distribution is more balanced at peak but you want to be at least 50 rich or lean(hard to do with a carb)of peak. So you will be pushing the red knob in and leaving it there. Also pay attention to Cyl head temps with mixture change. John Furey RV6A O-360 RV6A O-320 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Doug, In our RV-9A with an IO 320 D1A I have seen very similar results on EGT with numbers right in the same range you are seeing. I have also seen that it has been quite good to note these temps as twice now my EGT and CHT have shown me problems that we were able to troubleshoot before any damage was caused. I still have not figured out exactly what happened but I am suspicious of the fuel nozzles clogging on the fuel injeciton. Mike Robertson >From: dmedema(at)att.net >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D >Received: by and from look like IP addresses > > >As I mentioned on my previous post, I've been testing our >new engine monitor. In addition to the on-the-ground test >I described in my last post, I also did some in-air work >looking at leaning at 3000', 5000', and 7000'. My plane >has an O320-E2D with a Sensenich fixed pitch prop. I have >a Slick mag on the left ignition and a Lightspeed on the >right side. > >The test was to stabilize the plane at each of the 3 altitudes >with full-rich mixture and 2400 RPM. I then recorded the EGTs >at this condition. I then slowly leaned the mixture to where >the engine roughened and then richened just enough to get it >to run smooth. I let it stabilize and recorded the temperatures. > >Here is the data: >3000' stable at 2400 RPM >Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta >1 1220 1387 +167 >2 1284 1421 +137 >3 1364 1419 +55 >4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st. > >5000' stable at 2400 RPM >Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta >1 1207 1358 +151 >2 1229 1383 +154 >3 1332 1390 +58 >4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st. > >7000' stable at 2400 RPM >Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta >1 1137 1353 +216 >2 1170 1381 +211 >3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st. >4 1321 1373 +52 > >As you can see, cylinders 3 and 4 seem to be running >much leaner than 1 and 2 when the mixture is full >rich. I observe that the EGTs really even out when I >lean the mixture. > >I note that on the ground at 1500 RPM full-rich, all >my EGTs were in a fairly normal band from 1140-1193. > >Any of the engine gurus (or not so gurus) have any >thoughts about what I'm seeing? Has anyone else done >a test like this? If so, can you post your results? > >Thanks, >Doug Medema >RV-6A N276DM >Dynon Avionics > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Hilger" <rvsixer(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
Date: Feb 24, 2005
----- Original Message ----- From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that has great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has fluctuations at > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! James James, My -6, O360-A1A, carb, Sensenich has exhibited the following: OAT below about 10 F and altitude above 5,000 ft. or so causes a drop in fuel pressure and a loss of power but only at full throttle (normally in a climb). As soon as the boost pump is turned on or the throttle is retarded slightly the engine picks up again. It has done this through four winters and 650 hours. A friend of mine (very experienced with engine work) told me a PA-32 Lance he once maintained did the same thing (although fuel injected). They changed the engine driven pump twice and didn't fix it. He speculated the cold was stiffening the fuel pump diaphragm and inhibiting it's ability to cycle at higher rpm. I have cooling air going to my pump and when I lessened that the problem abated somewhat. My fuel pressure does fluctuate somewhat but, other than what I just described, has never been a problem. Mike Hilger RV-6 N207AM Minnesota ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 24, 2005
Subject: Re: Headset audio wire broken at phone jack
Tom You don't say what brand the headsets are. I had a similar problem with my Lightspeed 20XLs. I called them, and they sent me new cables including the battery box for free -- for 2 headsets. They were about 3 years old. No questions asked. Great company. I'll buy from them again. Dan Hopper Walton, IN RV-7A (Flying) In a message dated 2/24/05 6:45:42 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, skytop(at)megsinet.net writes: List, I must have a broken wire in ear tone side of my headsets. I can wiggle the wire and cause on/off sound. Because the wire is broken within the molded heat shrink from the wire to the phone jack, I don't want to rush in and cut it open to repair it. Are there any tricks to opening it up and putting it back together keeping the whole thing neat? Or is this one of those types of things everyone does regardless of the mess and just not worry about it? Or third, send it to the factory for repair? I'd appreciate all comments. Tom Barnes Buffalo Grove, IL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Alodining before painting!!
Date: Feb 25, 2005
On the exterior of an airplane, the aluminum must always be alodined before priming and painting!! If you don't, you risk the primer and paint adhering only a year or two, then flaking or chipping off. Not only alodining, but you should always wash with a chemical, such as Poly Fiber 310 Alkaline Cleaner, then acid wash with a phosphoric acid like Poly Fiber 2310 Phosphoric Acid, before alodining. Mix the Alkaline Cleaner as per instructions on the bottle, then use a red Scotchbrite pad dipped in the mix, going over the whole structure with the pad, and don't worry about scratching the aluminum with this type of pad. Wash off with clean water very well, then spray on the Phosphoric Acid, never letting it dry, for about 3-5 minutes, then wash off very well with clean water. Then spray on the alodine mixture, also never letting it dry, allowing it to remain 3-5 minutes, then rinsing with clean water as well. After alodining, you must prime within 7 days or do the process again. This was information learned from a professional painter that teaches the EAA Sportair Classes down in Griffin, GA. Any questions, just email me. I am sure there are many who would be interested! Thanks Todd Wiechman A&P IA Kitplane Crafters (Builder of all RV Models) Wichita, KS 316-210-5670 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Alodining before painting!!
Date: Feb 24, 2005
I hate to tell you this man, but your "professional painter" isn't exactly right. In fact, that opening statement is flat out wrong. Whether or not your paint is going to "stick" to the plane depens a LOT more on the primer & paint combination used, as well as the surface preparation you put into it. I'm not saying Alodine is a bad thing to do to your plane before painting, but it's far from a "Requirement". We don't want people to start running scared just because they didn't use the exact steps below. I'm sure the SportAir workshops are great, and I'm sure the painter was skilled individual, and I'm sure you learned a bunch, but not all of it is entirely true. There isn't enough whitespace here to go into this in detail, the archives contain TONS of information on this subject, as well as literally hundreds of internet sites that will also give you info as well. Just my 2 cents! Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Todd Wiechman Subject: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! On the exterior of an airplane, the aluminum must always be alodined before priming and painting!! If you don't, you risk the primer and paint adhering only a year or two, then flaking or chipping off. Not only alodining, but you should always wash with a chemical, such as Poly Fiber 310 Alkaline Cleaner, then acid wash with a phosphoric acid like Poly Fiber 2310 Phosphoric Acid, before alodining. Mix the Alkaline Cleaner as per instructions on the bottle, then use a red Scotchbrite pad dipped in the mix, going over the whole structure with the pad, and don't worry about scratching the aluminum with this type of pad. Wash off with clean water very well, then spray on the Phosphoric Acid, never letting it dry, for about 3-5 minutes, then wash off very well with clean water. Then spray on the alodine mixture, also never letting it dry, allowing it to remain 3-5 minutes, then rinsing with clean water as well. After alodining, you must prime within 7 days or do the process again. This was information learned from a professional painter that teaches the EAA Sportair Classes down in Griffin, GA. Any questions, just email me. I am sure there are many who would be interested! Thanks Todd Wiechman A&P IA Kitplane Crafters (Builder of all RV Models) Wichita, KS 316-210-5670 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 25, 2005
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Subject: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D
I have same setup as you except dual Slick mags. You are having much more inequity among cylinders at full rich than I am, but that may just be throttle-plate effects on airflow distribution at partial throttle. Overall it looks like you are running too lean a jetting; see the archives for extensive (and confusing) hashing-out of this topic. I see several hundred degree delta on all cyls from rich to full lean in cruise, and can lean to at least 30 LOP before it gets rough, if at an altitude that allows wide-open throttle operations. I did your experiment several times in the olden days, but I'm bad about misplacing records. I need to do it again ;-) Bill B carbureted 160 hp O-320-E2D with fixed Sensenich ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
Date: Feb 25, 2005
THANKS John!! Good stuff to go and check. Also I removed the "do not ......." as I think your comments are worthy of being in the archives. James | -----Original Message----- | From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John D. Heath | Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 9:23 PM | To: rv-list(at)matronics.com | Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | | | Fuel pressure gauges give inaccurate readings because: | 1. The sending unit is poorly grounded if it is screwed into and | anodized | oil manifold mounted on the firewall and is not otherwise properly | grounded. | | 2.The sending unit has a small vent that allows the aneroid inside the | case | to be exposed to atmospheric pressure. The indicated pressure is actually | that relative pressure between atmospheric and what the fuel pump | provides. | Clogged vents make for inaccurate indications. | | 3.The fuel pump makes pressure as dictated by a spring. The pump also has | a | vent that can become restricted or mistakenly plugged. | | 4. The sending unit, mounted forward of the firewall is exposed is | exposed | towhat ever pressure is present inside the cowl. 5 psi inside the cowl | relative to5 psi fuel pressure is Zero. | | Find yourself a good direct reading pressure gauge and satisfy yourself | as | towhat the fuel pressure really is. Clean vents Repair grounds and do | what | everelse it takes to secure piece of mind. | | John D. Heath | {SNIP} ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: Alodining before painting!!
Date: Feb 25, 2005
I agree Stein. Dupont makes a great DTM LF Epoxy primer that applied over a clean scotch brited surface is impossible to get of after 24 hrs without a paint stripper! The added advantage is you apply your finish coat directly over it as you would any primer sealer. It save weight, time and will not let go. Just my thoughts on the matter and I have been painting since the lacquer days. Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! > > I hate to tell you this man, but your "professional painter" isn't exactly > right. In fact, that opening statement is flat out wrong. > > Whether or not your paint is going to "stick" to the plane depens a LOT > more > on the primer & paint combination used, as well as the surface preparation > you put into it. > > I'm not saying Alodine is a bad thing to do to your plane before painting, > but it's far from a "Requirement". We don't want people to start running > scared just because they didn't use the exact steps below. > > I'm sure the SportAir workshops are great, and I'm sure the painter was > skilled individual, and I'm sure you learned a bunch, but not all of it is > entirely true. > > There isn't enough whitespace here to go into this in detail, the archives > contain TONS of information on this subject, as well as literally hundreds > of internet sites that will also give you info as well. > > Just my 2 cents! > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch > RV6's, Minneapolis > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Todd Wiechman > To: brian.kraut(at)engalt.com > Subject: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! > > > On the exterior of an airplane, the aluminum must always be alodined > before > priming and painting!! If you don't, you risk the primer and paint > adhering > only a year or two, then flaking or chipping off. Not only alodining, but > you should always wash with a chemical, such as Poly Fiber 310 Alkaline > Cleaner, then acid wash with a phosphoric acid like Poly Fiber 2310 > Phosphoric Acid, before alodining. Mix the Alkaline Cleaner as per > instructions on the bottle, then use a red Scotchbrite pad dipped in the > mix, going over the whole structure with the pad, and don't worry about > scratching the aluminum with this type of pad. Wash off with clean water > very well, then spray on the Phosphoric Acid, never letting it dry, for > about 3-5 minutes, then wash off very well with clean water. Then spray on > the alodine mixture, also never letting it dry, allowing it to remain 3-5 > minutes, then rinsing with clean water as well. After alodining, you must > prime within 7 days or do the process again. > This was information learned from a professional painter that teaches the > EAA Sportair Classes down in Griffin, GA. > Any questions, just email me. > I am sure there are many who would be interested! Thanks > > Todd Wiechman A&P IA > Kitplane Crafters (Builder of all RV Models) > Wichita, KS > 316-210-5670 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Carburator problem
Date: Feb 25, 2005
What is this?? 11 people were able to repeat each others thoughts on fuel presure guage, but no one has had a carb problem??? Charles heathco RV6a ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 25, 2005
Subject: Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
John, I have been thinking about this subject since it started, and could not come up with the answer. This is the best and most complete explanation yet. It makes perfect sense. Why in the world would you not want it in the archives? It sounds like we need a differential pressure sensor to reference back to the pressure in the float bowl. This could be done by connecting the vent hole back to the carb bowl with a small piece of tubing. That may be hard to do, but if you figure out how, let the rest of us know if that fixed it! Having said all that, if the fuel pump diaphragm is exposed to 5 psi ambient pressure, it may not pump at all. Is this correct? Dan Hopper Walton, IN RV-7A (Flying) In a message dated 2/24/05 9:27:55 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, Alto_Q(at)direcway.com writes: --> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" Fuel pressure gauges give inaccurate readings because: 1. The sending unit is poorly grounded if it is screwed into and anodized oil manifold mounted on the firewall and is not otherwise properly grounded. 2.The sending unit has a small vent that allows the aneroid inside the case to be exposed to atmospheric pressure. The indicated pressure is actually that relative pressure between atmospheric and what the fuel pump provides. Clogged vents make for inaccurate indications. 3.The fuel pump makes pressure as dictated by a spring. The pump also has a vent that can become restricted or mistakenly plugged. 4. The sending unit, mounted forward of the firewall is exposed is exposed towhat ever pressure is present inside the cowl. 5 psi inside the cowl relative to5 psi fuel pressure is Zero. Find yourself a good direct reading pressure gauge and satisfy yourself as towhat the fuel pressure really is. Clean vents Repair grounds and do what everelse it takes to secure piece of mind. John D. Heath ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: Carburator problem
Date: Feb 25, 2005
Charles, There are people who have had various carburetor problems in the past as I recall. Don't remember one with the loose screws. Might that have caused the wallowing out?? As to repair, in the test phase of our RV6 (O-320), I had a series of "vibration" problems that I cha$ed and cha$ed and cha$ed. (My buddies even started calling me "vibes".) Most changes seemed to improve things but not really fix it. When the carburetor made the suspect list (down low) it was REPLACED. Different strokes for different folks. At a minimum I would go with a whole new kit. More than likely I would either send it off for overhaul or replace it entirely. Not the direct answer to your question but at least one view. :-) Best wishes on the repair. Fly safe. James | -----Original Message----- | From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Heathco | Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 9:04 AM | To: rv-list(at)matronics.com | Subject: RV-List: Carburator problem | | | What is this?? 11 people were able to repeat each others thoughts on fuel | presure guage, but no one has had a carb problem??? Charles heathco RV6a | | | | | ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com>
Subject: EGT's and leaning on my O320-E2D
Date: Feb 25, 2005
Doug, I'd say that you have a nice running engine. I'm seeing #3 & 4 run lean first, but the EGT' delta between cylinders goes up significantly. In fact, at 2400 RPM, 3000', in 15*F OAT, I'm seeing #4 CHT fall below 200*F, which causes the engine to run even rougher.... Full throttle restores the EGT & CHT delta much lower differences, but anything off of full throttle I'm seeing big differences. I thought that it was a full sharing issue but now I'm not sure... Using two ElectroAIr electronic ignitions with auto spark plugs. Installing aviation plugs this weekend to see if it makes a difference...... Fred Stucklen RV-6A N926RV 365 Hrs O-320-D1A with 9:1 pistons _____ From: dmedema(at)att.net <mailto:dmedema(at)att.net> Subject: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D addresses As I mentioned on my previous post, I've been testing our new engine monitor. In addition to the on-the-ground test I described in my last post, I also did some in-air work looking at leaning at 3000', 5000', and 7000'. My plane has an O320-E2D with a Sensenich fixed pitch prop. I have a Slick mag on the left ignition and a Lightspeed on the right side. The test was to stabilize the plane at each of the 3 altitudes with full-rich mixture and 2400 RPM. I then recorded the EGTs at this condition. I then slowly leaned the mixture to where the engine roughened and then richened just enough to get it to run smooth. I let it stabilize and recorded the temperatures. Here is the data: 3000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1220 1387 +167 2 1284 1421 +137 3 1364 1419 +55 4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st. 5000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1207 1358 +151 2 1229 1383 +154 3 1332 1390 +58 4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st. 7000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1137 1353 +216 2 1170 1381 +211 3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st. 4 1321 1373 +52 As you can see, cylinders 3 and 4 seem to be running much leaner than 1 and 2 when the mixture is full rich. I observe that the EGTs really even out when I lean the mixture. I note that on the ground at 1500 RPM full-rich, all my EGTs were in a fairly normal band from 1140-1193. Any of the engine gurus (or not so gurus) have any thoughts about what I'm seeing? Has anyone else done a test like this? If so, can you post your results? Thanks, Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM Dynon Avionics ________________________________________________________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: Alodining before painting!!
Date: Feb 25, 2005
I'll add to Stein's comment that in this very imperfect world, the phosphoric acid is going to seep into lots of nooks and cracks and there is no way that you will be able to rinse it off. You will consequently end up with a fair amount of acid here and there which will worsen the problem. Michle > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch > Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 5:41 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! > > > I hate to tell you this man, but your "professional painter" isn't exactly > right. In fact, that opening statement is flat out wrong. > > Whether or not your paint is going to "stick" to the plane depens a LOT > more > on the primer & paint combination used, as well as the surface preparation > you put into it. > > I'm not saying Alodine is a bad thing to do to your plane before painting, > but it's far from a "Requirement". We don't want people to start running > scared just because they didn't use the exact steps below. > > I'm sure the SportAir workshops are great, and I'm sure the painter was > skilled individual, and I'm sure you learned a bunch, but not all of it is > entirely true. > > There isn't enough whitespace here to go into this in detail, the archives > contain TONS of information on this subject, as well as literally hundreds > of internet sites that will also give you info as well. > > Just my 2 cents! > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch > RV6's, Minneapolis > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Todd Wiechman > To: brian.kraut(at)engalt.com > Subject: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! > > > > On the exterior of an airplane, the aluminum must always be alodined > before > priming and painting!! If you don't, you risk the primer and paint > adhering > only a year or two, then flaking or chipping off. Not only alodining, but > you should always wash with a chemical, such as Poly Fiber 310 Alkaline > Cleaner, then acid wash with a phosphoric acid like Poly Fiber 2310 > Phosphoric Acid, before alodining. Mix the Alkaline Cleaner as per > instructions on the bottle, then use a red Scotchbrite pad dipped in the > mix, going over the whole structure with the pad, and don't worry about > scratching the aluminum with this type of pad. Wash off with clean water > very well, then spray on the Phosphoric Acid, never letting it dry, for > about 3-5 minutes, then wash off very well with clean water. Then spray on > the alodine mixture, also never letting it dry, allowing it to remain 3-5 > minutes, then rinsing with clean water as well. After alodining, you must > prime within 7 days or do the process again. > This was information learned from a professional painter that teaches the > EAA Sportair Classes down in Griffin, GA. > Any questions, just email me. > I am sure there are many who would be interested! Thanks > > Todd Wiechman A&P IA > Kitplane Crafters (Builder of all RV Models) > Wichita, KS > 316-210-5670 > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question
Date: Feb 25, 2005
I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been studying all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.). In the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting off the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the plexiglass. I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique and if so would you do it again? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: Carburator problem
Date: Feb 25, 2005
Just wondering, what prop were/are you running? Chuck > As to repair, in the test phase of our RV6 (O-320), I had a series of > "vibration" problems that I cha$ed and cha$ed and cha$ed. (My buddies even > started calling me "vibes".) Most changes seemed to improve things but not > really fix it. When the carburetor made the suspect list (down low) it was > REPLACED. Different strokes for different folks. > > At a minimum I would go with a whole new kit. More than likely I would > either send it off for overhaul or replace it entirely. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 25, 2005
From: "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
Dan, I think you'll find that the spring in the fuel pump is assisted by ambient pressure unless the vent is restricted. Sometimes a line is attached at the pump vent and piped over board with the thought in mind that fuel comes out that vent if a pump diaphram ruptures. Other wise that fuel would go into the crankcase. Lets try to make the list more complete 1. restricted fuel tank vent or vented to an area that has lower pressure at higher airspeed 2. air leaks on the intake side of the pumps, to include a hung flop tube. Boost pumps can sometimes overcome air leaks. Engine driven diaphram pumps can not because of how much higher they are than the fuel source. there may or may not be associated fuel leaks 3. Pump vent installation error that is repeated on subsequent repairs because things tend to be put back the way they were. 4. internal leaks in the carb', loose Float needle seat, leaking needle at the seat, Float full of fuel and sinking. 5. restricted fuel filters where ever they all might be 6. "If" for some reason a vacuum is developed in the crankcase, that can inhibit engine pump operation. I don't plan on ever developing a differential fuel preasure sensor, but if I had it to do, here's how I would start. Auto Meter makes a fuel isolater that amounts to a small disk (~3" Dia) that has a metal diaphram inside. I t could be mounted near and attached to the oil manifold on the firewall. From the other side of the diaphram run a line to the fuel preasure sending unit that could be mounted anywhere with a more favoable ambient preasure. The line between the sender and the isolater is fill with anti-freeze. That means you could even mount the sender on the other side of the firewall and not take preasurized fuel with it, or just use a direct reading gauge and eliminate the elictrical circut. John D. It sounds like we need a differential pressure sensor to reference back > to the pressure in the float bowl. This could be done by connecting the > vent hole back to the carb bowl with a small piece of tubing. That may > be > hard to do, but if you figure out how, let the rest of us know if that > fixed it! > > Having said all that, if the fuel pump diaphragm is exposed to 5 psi > ambient pressure, it may not pump at all. Is this correct? > > Dan Hopper > Walton, IN > RV-7A (Flying) > > > In a message dated 2/24/05 9:27:55 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, > Alto_Q(at)direcway.com writes: > > --> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" > > Fuel pressure gauges give inaccurate readings because: > 1. The sending unit is poorly grounded if it is screwed into and anodized > oil manifold mounted on the firewall and is not otherwise properly > grounded. > > 2.The sending unit has a small vent that allows the aneroid inside the > case > to be exposed to atmospheric pressure. The indicated pressure is actually > that relative pressure between atmospheric and what the fuel pump > provides. > Clogged vents make for inaccurate indications. > > 3.The fuel pump makes pressure as dictated by a spring. The pump also has > a > vent that can become restricted or mistakenly plugged. > > 4. The sending unit, mounted forward of the firewall is exposed is > exposed > towhat ever pressure is present inside the cowl. 5 psi inside the cowl > relative to5 psi fuel pressure is Zero. > > Find yourself a good direct reading pressure gauge and satisfy yourself > as > towhat the fuel pressure really is. Clean vents Repair grounds and do > what > everelse it takes to secure piece of mind. > > John D. Heath > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Moore, Warren" <Warren.Moore(at)tidelandsoil.com>
Subject: RV4 canopy brace
Date: Feb 25, 2005
been through the archives looking for a way to secure my -4's canopy. Like something that would lock the canopy open, but not as complex as the pnematic struts. Does anyone have any photos of the folding table leg brace, or straight rod that they would be willing to share? Thanks, Warren Moore N223WM eJ8+IiARAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQWAAwAOAAAA1QcCABkACQATABgABQAwAQEggAMADgAAANUHAgAZ AAkAEwAeAAUANgEBCYABACEAAABERUNFMzc1MTI0QUMxNzQzODJBOUJFMjg0NDhFOTlDQwBMBwEE gAEAEQAAAFJWNCBjYW5vcHkgYnJhY2UAowUBDYAEAAIAAAACAAIAAQOQBgAIBwAAMAAAAAMAW4AI IAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAFKFAAAnagEAHgBcgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAVIUAAAEA AAAEAAAAOS4wAAsAgIAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAAaFAAAAAAAAAwAOgAggBgAAAAAAwAAA AAAAAEYAAAAAAYUAAAAAAAALABCACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAADhQAAAAAAAAsAEYAIIAYA AAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAA6FAAAAAAAAAwA3gAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAEIUAAAAAAAAD ADiACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAARhQAAAAAAAAMAPoAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAABiF AAAAAAAAHgBLgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAANoUAAAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4ATIAIIAYAAAAA AMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADeFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAeAE2ACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA4hQAA AQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAAgEJEAEAAAB+AQAAegEAALsBAABMWkZ1BEsn0AMACgByY3BnMTI1FjIA+Atg bg4QMDMzTwH3AqQD4wIAY2gKwHOwZXQwIAcTAoB9CoGSdgiQd2sLgGQ0DGBOYwBQCwMLtSBiCeEg RHRoA2B1Z2gUEWVmIArAEOBpdgeRCQBvGRJhZyACEAXAYSB3pGF5FBBvIBEgYwhwRRTAbRZwLTQn BCBjAQBwb3B5LiBMafprFMBzA3ARMBUQFcEUIEphBUB3CGBsZBVhY7ZrFJMXtCAX4AnwLBPA7nUF QBfQBUBhF5EDcAtQjGV4G6IUonBuZQDApnQN4BawdHIbQHMYENggRG8HkQBweQIgFMCvEPAVMB4y HMBoG4BvBCD8b2YUkwIQGaAY4wGgHCClFWBlFdBicgDQZRsQ/wWxHWELcBRwBUADYBmwGSO/FKEW cBl0E9AWQAMQbBjjcxahEPFlPwqiCoQKgFShEPBua3MsJPRXCsA7CXADoE0VgAlwJPROMrAyM1dN JPQR4QAooAAAHgBwAAEAAAARAAAAUlY0IGNhbm9weSBicmFjZQAAAAACAXEAAQAAABYAAAABxRte aJXJKOzRhwwR2YwUAALjCWL2AAADACYAAAAAAAMANgAAAAAACwACAAEAAAADAAlZAwAAAAMA3j+v bwAAQAA5ACCiSSdeG8UBAwDxPwkEAAAeADFAAQAAAA0AAABXQVJSRU4gTU9PUkUAAAAAAwAaQAAA AAAeADBAAQAAAA0AAABXQVJSRU4gTU9PUkUAAAAAAwAZQAAAAAADAP0/5AQAAAMAgBD/////AgFH AAEAAAA2AAAAYz1VUzthPSA7cD1UaWRlbGFuZHMgT2lsO2w9TE9DVVRVUy0wNTAyMjUxNzE5MjRa LTEyMjcAAAACAfk/AQAAAFQAAAAAAAAA3KdAyMBCEBq0uQgAKy/hggEAAAAAAAAAL089VElERUxB TkRTIE9JTC9PVT1ORVhVUy9DTj1SRUNJUElFTlRTL0NOPVdBUlJFTiBNT09SRQAeAPg/AQAAAA4A AABNb29yZSwgV2FycmVuAAAAHgA4QAEAAAANAAAAV0FSUkVOIE1PT1JFAAAAAAIB+z8BAAAAVAAA AAAAAADcp0DIwEIQGrS5CAArL+GCAQAAAAAAAAAvTz1USURFTEFORFMgT0lML09VPU5FWFVTL0NO PVJFQ0lQSUVOVFMvQ049V0FSUkVOIE1PT1JFAB4A+j8BAAAADgAAAE1vb3JlLCBXYXJyZW4AAAAe ADlAAQAAAA0AAABXQVJSRU4gTU9PUkUAAAAAQAAHMJAnvvBdG8UBQAAIMHAcxipeG8UBHgA9AAEA AAABAAAAAAAAAB4AHQ4BAAAAEQAAAFJWNCBjYW5vcHkgYnJhY2UAAAAAHgA1EAEAAABCAAAAPEEx RjJCOTBDNjJGNEQzMTFCQjE4MDA1MDhCOEJGQzFDMTczQTc2QGxvY3V0dXMudGlkZWxhbmRzb2ls LmNvbT4AAAALACkAAAAAAAsAIwAAAAAAAwAGECQumeIDAAcQ9QAAAAMAEBAAAAAAAwAREAAAAAAe AAgQAQAAAGUAAABCRUVOVEhST1VHSFRIRUFSQ0hJVkVTTE9PS0lOR0ZPUkFXQVlUT1NFQ1VSRU1Z LTRTQ0FOT1BZTElLRVNPTUVUSElOR1RIQVRXT1VMRExPQ0tUSEVDQU5PUFlPUEVOLEJVVE5PAAAA AAIBfwABAAAAQgAAADxBMUYyQjkwQzYyRjREMzExQkIxODAwNTA4QjhCRkMxQzE3M0E3NkBsb2N1 dHVzLnRpZGVsYW5kc29pbC5jb20+AAAAu2o ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question
Date: Feb 25, 2005
-----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum Subject: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been studying all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.). In the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting off the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the plexiglass. I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique and if so would you do it again? J.D., I cut the stub off. Then I put the plastic upside down on the table and moved the frame around in it to find the fore and aft location where the center bow curvature matched the plexi the best and marked it. You can't do that with the stub on. When it came time to drill the hole for the latch handle, it was too easy to get it in the right place. I bought extra plastic washers from Van's (the one that goes on the latch tube under the plexi) to put on top under the external handle. I only used one on top so if you want one, I'll mail it to you. The best single piece of advice I can give you is get the slider frame fitted to the roll bar and rear fuselage as well as you possibly can before you mess with the glass. Leave the frame a little narrow at the front bottom corners 'cos the glass will pull it back out again. Good luck with it. It'll probably drive you nuts and you'll eventually whip it. Pax, Ed Holyoke RV-6 Slider complete! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com>
Subject: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question
Date: Feb 25, 2005
I trimmed mine to the thickness of the plexi before fitting. A slight protrusion like that didn't make much difference in the fitting and I drilled the hole for it as soon as I had the frame located in the plexi, And it worked out fine. I read all the available instruction such as Cone's and Justice but ended up pretty much using Vans. The other ones are older and may have been the best at the time but I think Van's work best for today's product. Neil McLeod, Finishing Bisbee, AZ -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum Subject: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been studying all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.). In the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting off the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the plexiglass. I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique and if so would you do it again? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV8 empannage and wing project For Sale
Date: Feb 25, 2005
From: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
Hi all, Thanks for the nice response to my earlier post regarding the sale of my project. To make it a little easier I "threw" together a web site last weekend. For more details on the project go to www.textorfamily.com <http://www.textorfamily.com/> . Thanks Jack Textor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
Subject: egts
Date: Feb 25, 2005
Ground run at 1500 RPM Ignition Status Cyl Both on Left L-delta Right R-delta 1 1182 1320 +138 1223 +41 2 1172 1320 +148 1191 +19 3 1193 1319 +126 1260 +67 4 1140 1312 +172 1175 +35 Spread 53 8 85 Here is the data: 3000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1220 1387 +167 2 1284 1421 +137 3 1364 1419 +55 4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st. Spread 159 34 5000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1207 1358 +151 2 1229 1383 +154 3 1332 1390 +58 4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st. Spread 127 32 7000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1137 1353 +216 2 1170 1381 +211 3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st. 4 1321 1373 +52 Spread 184 28 Doug, It would appear that your throttle setting wasn't at full as evidenced by the big difference between the fore and aft cylinders. But when you lean it the mixing gets a little more even. You might try a full throttle vs part throttle to see if the spread gets narrower at full. The lower delta at lower altitudes is normal, but it may mean your carb is jetted just a little lean since the actual value is fairly small. I'm not sure it needs to be changed as lycoming recommends no leaning above 75% power so there may not be a need. In other words how much time do you spend below 3000 ft below 75% power? Did you say your probes are less than 4" from the flange? These temps aren't bad, but the probe life may be shorter. The joints in the Vetterman exhaust do make probe installation a little constrained. Not sure if you are using that exhaust but your temps parallel mine in the slightly bigger 0-360 cylinders. I would be interested to know what your CHTs did with the left mag vs right LS system while in flight. Theorectically with more heat going out the exhaust on the mag only, the CHTs should decline. All in all, cool data. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV4 canopy brace
Date: Feb 25, 2005
A pneumatic strut is pretty simple - and inexpensive, too. Mine has worked well for 3+ years. McMaster-Carr sells struts and all the necessary hardware to anchor the ends. Good Luck, Dean RV-4 Bolton, MA ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Moore, Warren" <Warren.Moore(at)tidelandsoil.com> Subject: RV-List: RV4 canopy brace Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 09:19:24 -0800 been through the archives looking for a way to secure my -4's canopy. Like something that would lock the canopy open, but not as complex as the pnematic struts. Does anyone have any photos of the folding table leg brace, or straight rod that they would be willing to share? Thanks, Warren Moore N223WM eJ8+IiARAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQWAAwAOAAAA1QcCABkACQATABgABQAwAQEggAMADgAAANUHAgAZ AAkAEwAeAAUANgEBCYABACEAAABERUNFMzc1MTI0QUMxNzQzODJBOUJFMjg0NDhFOTlDQwBMBwEE gAEAEQAAAFJWNCBjYW5vcHkgYnJhY2UAowUBDYAEAAIAAAACAAIAAQOQBgAIBwAAMAAAAAMAW4AI IAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAFKFAAAnagEAHgBcgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAVIUAAAEA AAAEAAAAOS4wAAsAgIAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAAaFAAAAAAAAAwAOgAggBgAAAAAAwAAA AAAAAEYAAAAAAYUAAAAAAAALABCACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAADhQAAAAAAAAsAEYAIIAYA AAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAA6FAAAAAAAAAwA3gAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAEIUAAAAAAAAD ADiACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAARhQAAAAAAAAMAPoAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAABiF AAAAAAAAHgBLgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAANoUAAAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4ATIAIIAYAAAAA AMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADeFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAeAE2ACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA4hQAA AQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAAgEJEAEAAAB+AQAAegEAALsBAABMWkZ1BEsn0AMACgByY3BnMTI1FjIA+Atg bg4QMDMzTwH3AqQD4wIAY2gKwHOwZXQwIAcTAoB9CoGSdgiQd2sLgGQ0DGBOYwBQCwMLtSBiCeEg RHRoA2B1Z2gUEWVmIArAEOBpdgeRCQBvGRJhZyACEAXAYSB3pGF5FBBvIBEgYwhwRRTAbRZwLTQn BCBjAQBwb3B5LiBMafprFMBzA3ARMBUQFcEUIEphBUB3CGBsZBVhY7ZrFJMXtCAX4AnwLBPA7nUF QBfQBUBhF5EDcAtQjGV4G6IUonBuZQDApnQN4BawdHIbQHMYENggRG8HkQBweQIgFMCvEPAVMB4y HMBoG4BvBCD8b2YUkwIQGaAY4wGgHCClFWBlFdBicgDQZRsQ/wWxHWELcBRwBUADYBmwGSO/FKEW cBl0E9AWQAMQbBjjcxahEPFlPwqiCoQKgFShEPBua3MsJPRXCsA7CXADoE0VgAlwJPROMrAyM1dN JPQR4QAooAAAHgBwAAEAAAARAAAAUlY0IGNhbm9weSBicmFjZQAAAAACAXEAAQAAABYAAAABxRte aJXJKOzRhwwR2YwUAALjCWL2AAADACYAAAAAAAMANgAAAAAACwACAAEAAAADAAlZAwAAAAMA3j+v bwAAQAA5ACCiSSdeG8UBAwDxPwkEAAAeADFAAQAAAA0AAABXQVJSRU4gTU9PUkUAAAAAAwAaQAAA AAAeADBAAQAAAA0AAABXQVJSRU4gTU9PUkUAAAAAAwAZQAAAAAADAP0/5AQAAAMAgBD/////AgFH AAEAAAA2AAAAYz1VUzthPSA7cD1UaWRlbGFuZHMgT2lsO2w9TE9DVVRVUy0wNTAyMjUxNzE5MjRa LTEyMjcAAAACAfk/AQAAAFQAAAAAAAAA3KdAyMBCEBq0uQgAKy/hggEAAAAAAAAAL089VElERUxB TkRTIE9JTC9PVT1ORVhVUy9DTj1SRUNJUElFTlRTL0NOPVdBUlJFTiBNT09SRQAeAPg/AQAAAA4A AABNb29yZSwgV2FycmVuAAAAHgA4QAEAAAANAAAAV0FSUkVOIE1PT1JFAAAAAAIB+z8BAAAAVAAA AAAAAADcp0DIwEIQGrS5CAArL+GCAQAAAAAAAAAvTz1USURFTEFORFMgT0lML09VPU5FWFVTL0NO PVJFQ0lQSUVOVFMvQ049V0FSUkVOIE1PT1JFAB4A+j8BAAAADgAAAE1vb3JlLCBXYXJyZW4AAAAe ADlAAQAAAA0AAABXQVJSRU4gTU9PUkUAAAAAQAAHMJAnvvBdG8UBQAAIMHAcxipeG8UBHgA9AAEA AAABAAAAAAAAAB4AHQ4BAAAAEQAAAFJWNCBjYW5vcHkgYnJhY2UAAAAAHgA1EAEAAABCAAAAPEEx RjJCOTBDNjJGNEQzMTFCQjE4MDA1MDhCOEJGQzFDMTczQTc2QGxvY3V0dXMudGlkZWxhbmRzb2ls LmNvbT4AAAALACkAAAAAAAsAIwAAAAAAAwAGECQumeIDAAcQ9QAAAAMAEBAAAAAAAwAREAAAAAAe AAgQAQAAAGUAAABCRUVOVEhST1VHSFRIRUFSQ0hJVkVTTE9PS0lOR0ZPUkFXQVlUT1NFQ1VSRU1Z LTRTQ0FOT1BZTElLRVNPTUVUSElOR1RIQVRXT1VMRExPQ0tUSEVDQU5PUFlPUEVOLEJVVE5PAAAA AAIBfwABAAAAQgAAADxBMUYyQjkwQzYyRjREMzExQkIxODAwNTA4QjhCRkMxQzE3M0E3NkBsb2N1 dHVzLnRpZGVsYW5kc29pbC5jb20+AAAAu2o ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 25, 2005
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV4 canopy brace
>----Original Message Follows---- >From: "Moore, Warren" <Warren.Moore(at)tidelandsoil.com> >To: "'RV List'" >Subject: RV-List: RV4 canopy brace >Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 09:19:24 -0800 > > > >been through the archives looking for a way to secure my -4's canopy. Like >something that would lock the canopy open, but not as complex as the >pnematic struts. Does anyone have any photos of the folding table leg >brace, or straight rod that they would be willing to share? > >Thanks, >Warren Moore >N223WM > If you really don't want the strut, I'll try to take a couple of pics of the latching brace on my -4 for you. Send me a reminder off list. Charlie (would rather have a strut.) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: egts
Date: Feb 25, 2005
Related topic - What are you doing with heat risers to even out the cyl head temps? (The dams in front of the front cylinders) I'm still fiddling with mine. I can get 1 and 3 within a few degrees of eachother. 2 and 4 are another story. 2 is the hottest and 4 is typically 40 degrees less. I'd like to even them up a little more. Anyone have pictures of the shape and size of their heat risers, especially for number 2? Thanks, - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Wheeler North [mailto:wnorth(at)sdccd.edu] > Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 6:07 PM > To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com' > Subject: RV-List: egts > > > Ground run at 1500 RPM > Ignition Status > Cyl Both on Left L-delta Right R-delta > 1 1182 1320 +138 1223 +41 > 2 1172 1320 +148 1191 +19 > 3 1193 1319 +126 1260 +67 > 4 1140 1312 +172 1175 +35 > Spread 53 8 85 > > Here is the data: > 3000' stable at 2400 RPM > Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta > 1 1220 1387 +167 > 2 1284 1421 +137 > 3 1364 1419 +55 > 4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st. > Spread 159 34 > > 5000' stable at 2400 RPM > Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta > 1 1207 1358 +151 > 2 1229 1383 +154 > 3 1332 1390 +58 > 4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st. > Spread 127 32 > > 7000' stable at 2400 RPM > Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta > 1 1137 1353 +216 > 2 1170 1381 +211 > 3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st. > 4 1321 1373 +52 > Spread 184 28 > > Doug, > > It would appear that your throttle setting wasn't at full as > evidenced by the big difference between the fore and aft > cylinders. But when you lean it the mixing gets a little more even. > > You might try a full throttle vs part throttle to see if the > spread gets narrower at full. > > The lower delta at lower altitudes is normal, but it may mean > your carb is jetted just a little lean since the actual value > is fairly small. I'm not sure it needs to be changed as > lycoming recommends no leaning above 75% power so there may > not be a need. In other words how much time do you spend > below 3000 ft below 75% power? > > Did you say your probes are less than 4" from the flange? > These temps aren't bad, but the probe life may be shorter. > The joints in the Vetterman exhaust do make probe > installation a little constrained. Not sure if you are using > that exhaust but your temps parallel mine in the slightly > bigger 0-360 cylinders. > > I would be interested to know what your CHTs did with the > left mag vs right LS system while in flight. Theorectically > with more heat going out the exhaust on the mag only, the > CHTs should decline. > > All in all, cool data. > > W > > > ======== > Matronics Forums. > ======== > ======== > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: RV6 DWG 14
Date: Feb 25, 2005
Can anyone give me the details of Revision 10 on I believe DWG 14? It's a fuselage skin clearance notch in the W-607D doubler. I know there is supposed to be one, but I don't have it... Thanks! I'd like to take advantage of this nice weather to paint some parts this weekend. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: egts
Date: Feb 26, 2005
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
Larry, Are you looking for consistency between the cylinder's EGT for absolute temps or for the delta temps. I assume you're looking for uniform deltas as they are the only ones of probative value. The absolutes are too dependent on installation locations and other factors that are unrelated to engine/ignition performance. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen Subject: RE: RV-List: egts Related topic - What are you doing with heat risers to even out the cyl head temps? (The dams in front of the front cylinders) I'm still fiddling with mine. I can get 1 and 3 within a few degrees of eachother. 2 and 4 are another story. 2 is the hottest and 4 is typically 40 degrees less. I'd like to even them up a little more. Anyone have pictures of the shape and size of their heat risers, especially for number 2? Thanks, - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Wheeler North [mailto:wnorth(at)sdccd.edu] > Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 6:07 PM > To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com' > Subject: RV-List: egts > > > Ground run at 1500 RPM > Ignition Status > Cyl Both on Left L-delta Right R-delta > 1 1182 1320 +138 1223 +41 > 2 1172 1320 +148 1191 +19 > 3 1193 1319 +126 1260 +67 > 4 1140 1312 +172 1175 +35 > Spread 53 8 85 > > Here is the data: > 3000' stable at 2400 RPM > Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta > 1 1220 1387 +167 > 2 1284 1421 +137 > 3 1364 1419 +55 > 4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st. > Spread 159 34 > > 5000' stable at 2400 RPM > Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta > 1 1207 1358 +151 > 2 1229 1383 +154 > 3 1332 1390 +58 > 4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st. > Spread 127 32 > > 7000' stable at 2400 RPM > Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta > 1 1137 1353 +216 > 2 1170 1381 +211 > 3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st. > 4 1321 1373 +52 > Spread 184 28 > > Doug, > > It would appear that your throttle setting wasn't at full as > evidenced by the big difference between the fore and aft > cylinders. But when you lean it the mixing gets a little more even. > > You might try a full throttle vs part throttle to see if the > spread gets narrower at full. > > The lower delta at lower altitudes is normal, but it may mean > your carb is jetted just a little lean since the actual value > is fairly small. I'm not sure it needs to be changed as > lycoming recommends no leaning above 75% power so there may > not be a need. In other words how much time do you spend > below 3000 ft below 75% power? > > Did you say your probes are less than 4" from the flange? > These temps aren't bad, but the probe life may be shorter. > The joints in the Vetterman exhaust do make probe > installation a little constrained. Not sure if you are using > that exhaust but your temps parallel mine in the slightly > bigger 0-360 cylinders. > > I would be interested to know what your CHTs did with the > left mag vs right LS system while in flight. Theorectically > with more heat going out the exhaust on the mag only, the > CHTs should decline. > > All in all, cool data. > > W > > > ======== > Matronics Forums. > ======== > ======== > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 26, 2005
Subject: cruise performance test data listed
Hi All, Has anyone else that is flying with a CS propeller noticed that at a fixed altitude with full throttle the airspeed is almost constant even though the RPM is changed from 2700 RPM to 2200 RPM? The only significant change is the fuel flow. I just finished updating the performance information on my _www.lessdrag.com_ (http://www.lessdrag.com) website on the "Lycoming 360 Propeller" page. For the Hartzell 2 blade propeller, the full throttle airspeed was 205 mph tias at 2,500' at 2500 RPM and up. The full throttle airspeeds are not listed for 2400 and 2300 RPM, but they were 202 at 2400 RPM and 199 at 2300 RPM. Regards, Jim Ayers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com>
Subject: RV6 DWG 14
Date: Feb 26, 2005
Go ahead and paint. The notch is optional and you won't know if you need it until you fit the wings to the fuselage. In my case, I didn't need it. If you do make this notch, it's just above the W-697B and the dimension shown on the plan is 9/16" deep from the inboard edge. The vertical dimension is not given, but the radius at the inside corner should be 1/16". Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - fuselage interior under construction -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Burton Subject: RV-List: RV6 DWG 14 Can anyone give me the details of Revision 10 on I believe DWG 14? It's a fuselage skin clearance notch in the W-607D doubler. I know there is supposed to be one, but I don't have it... Thanks! I'd like to take advantage of this nice weather to paint some parts this weekend. -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 26, 2005
Subject: Lycoming 360 mid range RPM restriction?
Hi All, Someone mentioned on the list that the new Hartzell blended airfoil propeller doesn't have a mid range RPM restriction on the Lycoming 360 with 180 hp. I thought I would add to the list of available propellers without the mid range RPM restriction. The aluminum 2 blade MT Propeller, MTV-15-B/183-402, does not have a mid range RPM restriction. The 3 blade MT Propeller, MTV-12-B/183-59b, does not have a mid range RPM restriction. However, the -59 blades that Van has been selling does have a mid range RPM restriction. MT Propeller has said that these two propeller do not have a RPM restriction on any Lycoming 360 engine. I've confirmed this for the 3 blade propeller with MT Propeller for a Lycoming 360 that dyno'd at 220 hp. However, if you have a super pumped up 360, you'd better give MT Propeller a call first. Regards, Jim Ayers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 26, 2005
Subject: Cruise performance data
Hi All, Just thought I would mention, before the flames start, that the 3 blade MT propeller performed about the same as the Hartzell 2 blade propeller at 7,500' and above. This seems to be in conflict with the test data provided by Van's Aircraft in the RVator. Van's Aircraft used a 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59 propeller. I used a 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59d propeller. MT Propeller modified the blades for better performance. That is why the added little letter "d" appears in the propeller designation. MT Propeller now has a 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59b propeller. This propeller is predicted to have 3 or 4 knots better performance than the -59d blades. The MTV-12-B/183-59b propeller is the only 3 blade propeller from MT Propeller that does NOT have a mid range RPM restriction on the Lycoming 360 engine without crankshaft counterweights. The MTV-12-B/183-59 propeller DOES have a mid range RPM restriction from 2050 to 2300 RPM on the Lycoming 360 engine without crankshaft dampeners. Regards, Jim Ayers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Cordner" <davcor(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Kitlog
Date: Feb 26, 2005
Paul, I read a posting on the yahoo board last night from a new builder back east who apparently was able to talk you into letting him have access to a beta copy of 2.0 ok, you get it I'm jealous, and could rationalize to you that my 25 years as a systems engineer for various software and now fibre channel communications company would also qualify me as a valid tester.... don't want to go there (whine that is) How about posting a bullet list of features (deltas to the previous releases) I expect that everyone involved in the new Kitlog have real day jobs and are finding it difficult to finish up the release. I can really relate, my plane project (7A) is getting dusty, have to finish the right wing before the fuse kit arrives in early April. I have to go to San Jose all next week, and yet I've been approached by a friend who wants me to moonlight for him to develop network management behavior models. It's fun work ($$$ too) but I just don't have time so how bout posting a new page or slide or two to the new 2.0 teaser web? Dave Cordner Arvada, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Stainless Screws
Date: Feb 26, 2005
I just ordered AN507-6R6 screws for the removable wing tip installation and now want to go the stainless screw route. What is the AN/MS # for the equivalent to the AN507-6R6? Thanks to how ever can reply first so I can cancel the other order. Bruce Gray RV8 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 26, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Stainless Screws
You may want to consider the stainless steel torx-type screws available from micro fasteners. Torx is very nice. Just type micro fasteners torx in Google. Mickey BRUCE GRAY wrote: > > I just ordered AN507-6R6 screws for the removable wing tip installation and > now want to go the stainless screw route. What is the AN/MS # for the > equivalent to the AN507-6R6? > Thanks to how ever can reply first so I can cancel the other order. > Bruce Gray > RV8 Wings > > -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Screws
Date: Feb 26, 2005
I have quite a few stainless hex socket flat heads on mine. Works nice too. Bryan -8 Houston >You may want to consider the stainless steel torx-type screws >available from micro fasteners. Torx is very nice. Just >type micro fasteners torx in Google. > >Mickey > >BRUCE GRAY wrote: > > > > I just ordered AN507-6R6 screws for the removable wing tip installation >and > > now want to go the stainless screw route. What is the AN/MS # for the > > equivalent to the AN507-6R6? > > Thanks to how ever can reply first so I can cancel the other order. > > Bruce Gray > > RV8 Wings > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Compression Tester
Date: Feb 26, 2005
Just a quick question. Is the cylinder compression tester with the master orifice worth the extra $30? I understand that the sales blurb says that it compensates for differences in local barametric pressure and temperature BUT is that compensation really such a big deal? Which units have you guys purchased? Vince ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 26, 2005
From: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question
YES. Cut off the stub Don't apply plastic till you have to. Just before flight etc to reduce possibility of scratching and to be sure slider especially is working right. Once plastic work is started, don't stop as canopy can change shape slightly if not anchored. hal RV6a 180 hrs. J D Newsum wrote: I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been studying all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.). In the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting off the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the plexiglass. I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique and if so would you do it again? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: emrath(at)comcast.net
Subject: Slider Mounting Question
Date: Feb 26, 2005
J.D., I followed Van's new instructions which came with my finishing kit a couple years ago. I did not cut the stub fo tube off. I just taped on some 1/4" spacers to the top bar and put the frame in the unside down canopy. I used a large box with an oval hole cut in it to hold the upside down canopy. Worked great. I'd say make the cut slightly forward of what a perfect fit would tell you as my canopy tail has a bit of 'turnup' at the end past the frame and I had to grind that down with a belt sander to be able to get my rear canopy skirts to lay flat. YMMV. Marty in Brentwood TN From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> Subject: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum Subject: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been studying all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.). In the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting off the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the plexiglass. I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique and if so would you do it again? J.D., I cut the stub off. Then I put the plastic upside down on the table and moved the frame around in it to find the fore and aft location where the center bow curvature matched the plexi the best and marked it. You can't do that with the stub on. When it came time to drill the hole for the latch handle, it was too easy to get it in the right place. I bought extra plastic washers from Van's (the one that goes on the latch tube under the plexi) to put on top under the external handle. I only used one on top so if you want one, I'll mail it to you. The best single piece of advice I can give you is get the slider frame fitted to the roll bar and rear fuselage as well as you possibly can before you mess with the glass. Leave the frame a little narrow at the front bottom corners 'cos the glass will pull it back out again. Good luck with it. It'll probably drive you nuts and you'll eventually whip it. Pax, Ed Holyoke RV-6 Slider complete! J.D., I followed Van's new instructions which came with my finishing kit a couple years ago. I did not cut the stub fo tubeoff. I just taped onsome 1/4" spacers to the top bar andput the frame in the unside down canopy. I used a large boxwith an oval hole cut in it to hold the upsidedown canopy. Worked great. I'd say make the cut slightly forward of what a perfect fit would tell you as my canopy tail has a bit of 'turnup' at the end past the frame and I had to grind that down with a belt sander to be able to get my rear canopy skirts to lay flat. YMMV. Marty in Brentwood TN Time: From: "Ed Holyoke" bicyclop(at)pacbell.net Subject: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question -- RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" bicyclop(at)pacbell.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum Subject: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question -- RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" jnewsum1(at)msn.com I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been studying all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.). In the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting off the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the plexiglass. I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique and if so would you do it again? J.D., I cut the stub off. Then I put the plastic upside down on the table and moved the frame around in it to find the fore and aft location where the center bow curvature matched the plexi the best and marked it. You can't do that with the stub on. When it came time to drill the hole for the latch handle, it was too easy to get it in the right place. I bought extra plastic washers from Van's (the one that goes on the latch tube under the plexi) to put on top under the external handle. I only used one on top so if you want one, I'll mail it to you. The best single piece of advice I can give you is get the slider frame fitted to the roll bar and rear fu selage as well as you possibly can before you mess with the glass. Leave the frame a little narrow at the front bottom corners 'cos the glass will pull it back out again. Good luck with it. It'll probably drive you nuts and you'll eventually whip it. Pax, Ed Holyoke RV-6 Slider complete! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Lycoming 360 mid range RPM restriction?
Date: Feb 27, 2005
Hi Jim Are you saying that the 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59b does not have rpm restrictions, or areas of non recommended continuous operation, when used with a non counterweighted '360 motor? Regds Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: <LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Lycoming 360 mid range RPM restriction? > > Hi All, > > Someone mentioned on the list that the new Hartzell blended airfoil > propeller doesn't have a mid range RPM restriction on the Lycoming 360 > with 180 hp. > I thought I would add to the list of available propellers without the mid > range RPM restriction. > > The aluminum 2 blade MT Propeller, MTV-15-B/183-402, does not have a mid > range RPM restriction. > > The 3 blade MT Propeller, MTV-12-B/183-59b, does not have a mid range RPM > restriction. > However, the -59 blades that Van has been selling does have a mid range > RPM > restriction. > > MT Propeller has said that these two propeller do not have a RPM > restriction > on any Lycoming 360 engine. > I've confirmed this for the 3 blade propeller with MT Propeller for a > Lycoming 360 that dyno'd at 220 hp. > However, if you have a super pumped up 360, you'd better give MT Propeller > a > call first. > > Regards, > Jim Ayers > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Flap shaped switch
Date: Feb 26, 2005
Anybody know where to get a flap switch shaped like a flap? I've seen them on finished airplanes, but not in any catalogs on any mention of them in the archives. Thanks in advance Steve Struyk RV-8, N842S (Res.) St. Charles, MO Finish ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)access4less.net>
Subject: compass fluid
Date: Feb 26, 2005
Listers Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass card. I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of fluid Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Flap shaped switch
Date: Feb 26, 2005
Hi Steve, I actually purchased a couple of these 2nd hand from a local salvage yard (most salvage yards have boxes of the things) and actually installed it in my RV-6. That being said, it was only there for about 15 minutes. Why did I remove it you ask; well...um....frankly, it looked stupid in my plane. So, I sold them on Ebay, and installed a regular toggle (which I put a White boot on) and use that. Now, it matches the rest of my switches, and doesn't fludge of the panel with a rather obnoxious protrusion....and....I don't desire any Cessna looking things on my beautiful RV panel :) Just my 2 cents and my opinion as usual. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Struyk Subject: RV-List: Flap shaped switch Anybody know where to get a flap switch shaped like a flap? I've seen them on finished airplanes, but not in any catalogs on any mention of them in the archives. Thanks in advance Steve Struyk RV-8, N842S (Res.) St. Charles, MO Finish ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: compass fluid
Date: Feb 26, 2005
Mineral spirits. Home Depot special, aviation aisle. Odorless variety preferred -- unless you want to KNOW in more ways than one when it's leaking. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (386 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)access4less.net> Subject: RV-List: compass fluid > > Listers > > Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass card. > > I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of fluid > > Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 26, 2005
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Stainless Screws
Bruce AN509C-6R6 Charlie Kuss > >I just ordered AN507-6R6 screws for the removable wing tip installation and >now want to go the stainless screw route. What is the AN/MS # for the >equivalent to the AN507-6R6? >Thanks to how ever can reply first so I can cancel the other order. >Bruce Gray >RV8 Wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 26, 2005
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: Primer Job looks like Crap...
(not processed: message from valid local sender) I am very frustrated. Today I attempted to paint my wing ribs with Sherwin Williams P60 G2 Primer and it looked horrible. I finally gave up and am going to do them with the good old spray cans from NAPA. However, I am interested in if I was doing something wrong or if this primer never goes on consistent. I have painted many times before, I am not new to it. I used the suggested mix ratio of 1:1.5 on the reducer and I am used two different paint guns and messed with the settings on each for 45 minutes or more before giving up. Basically, the paint looked splattered when it went on. Not a consistent color. I know the primer is supposed to be a semi-transparent green which makes it harder but it just looked bad and I dont remember seeing that on other planes I have looked at. Anyway, any feedback would help. I was using pressure between 40-70 P.S.I too. Thanks. - Matt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
Date: Feb 26, 2005
I had similar problems when a cork seal around the needle assembly got dry on my primer gun. Apparently, the dry seal was leaking. It took me several frustrating sessions to find the problem. After that, a little vaseline or chap-stick on the seal cured the problem. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> Subject: RV-List: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message from valid local sender) > > I am very frustrated. Today I attempted to paint my wing ribs with Sherwin > Williams P60 G2 Primer and it looked horrible. I finally gave up > and am going to do them with the good old spray cans from NAPA. However, I > am interested in if I was doing something wrong or if this > primer never goes on consistent. I have painted many times before, I am > not new to it. I used the suggested mix ratio of 1:1.5 on the > reducer and I am used two different paint guns and messed with the > settings on each for 45 minutes or more before giving up. Basically, > the paint looked splattered when it went on. Not a consistent color. I > know the primer is supposed to be a semi-transparent green which > makes it harder but it just looked bad and I dont remember seeing that on > other planes I have looked at. Anyway, any feedback would > help. I was using pressure between 40-70 P.S.I too. Thanks. > > - Matt > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
Date: Feb 26, 2005
When you go down to NAPA, you might ask for their 8846 and 8848 (primer and reducer). It's a 2-part, self etching epoxy primer, and does a fantastic job for me. I also keep a few cans of the spray version on hand as well for small jobs, but it is not as resistant to scratches, etc. In the past, I had a batch (on the inside of the rudder skin) that came out terrible as well. Turned out, I didn't shake up the primer can and get it mixed well enough before mixing it in with the reducer. But it was the same deal as yours, in that no one will ever see it. With regards to the Sherwin Williams, I haven't used it, but have heard of several on the list who were really happy with it as well. Wish I could offer a solution for you there. Bryan Hooks RV-7A slow-build Knoxville, TN -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Johnson Subject: RV-List: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message from valid local sender) I am very frustrated. Today I attempted to paint my wing ribs with Sherwin Williams P60 G2 Primer and it looked horrible. I finally gave up and am going to do them with the good old spray cans from NAPA. However, I am interested in if I was doing something wrong or if this primer never goes on consistent. I have painted many times before, I am not new to it. I used the suggested mix ratio of 1:1.5 on the reducer and I am used two different paint guns and messed with the settings on each for 45 minutes or more before giving up. Basically, the paint looked splattered when it went on. Not a consistent color. I know the primer is supposed to be a semi-transparent green which makes it harder but it just looked bad and I dont remember seeing that on other planes I have looked at. Anyway, any feedback would help. I was using pressure between 40-70 P.S.I too. Thanks. - Matt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
Date: Feb 26, 2005
When I've had problems with thick splotchy paint (primer), the solution was to thin it a lot more so it went on thin and took 2-3 passes to get a 0.7 mil thickness (could see the Pilot pen marks thru the primer). Caveat: I use a DeVilbiss HVLP at about 10 psi at the heel of the gun. Also, when I used "circular pattern" (circle or cone of paint) instead of "fan" (vertical line) - circular put on too much material. Once I got the basic "dryness" air adjustment set, I never changed it - just thinned enough each batch. David ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> Subject: RV-List: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message from valid local sender) > > I am very frustrated. Today I attempted to paint my wing ribs with Sherwin Williams P60 G2 Primer and it looked horrible. I finally gave up > and am going to do them with the good old spray cans from NAPA. However, I am interested in if I was doing something wrong or if this > primer never goes on consistent. I have painted many times before, I am not new to it. I used the suggested mix ratio of 1:1.5 on the > reducer and I am used two different paint guns and messed with the settings on each for 45 minutes or more before giving up. Basically, > the paint looked splattered when it went on. Not a consistent color. I know the primer is supposed to be a semi-transparent green which > makes it harder but it just looked bad and I dont remember seeing that on other planes I have looked at. Anyway, any feedback would > help. I was using pressure between 40-70 P.S.I too. Thanks. > > - Matt > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: Flap shaped switch
Date: Feb 26, 2005
Hi Steve, I mounted the flap switch on the far right end of all the switches on the sub switch panel. This placed the flap switch next to the carb heat and throttle. A natural reach and distance with the thumb. To Reduce the chance of hitting the wrong switch I used a short length of 3/4' X 3/4" by 2' piece of .062 angle. I drilled a switch sized hole and attached it to the sub panel with the vertical flange to the left side separating the flap switch from the rest of the switches. I trimmed two angles off the flange corners (ends) 3/4' long toward the sub panel so that the flange forms a fence that has an edge that is straight for about 1/2" at the centre with the two cut away angles representing flap position angles. The angle is riveted in place. The result is effective from a tactile point of view, works well as a switch separator and looks pretty good.to me. It took far less than one hour to finish. As suggested, a coloured boot on the flap toggle would add to the visual and tactile identity as well. If the description is poorly worded I can send a photo or two, Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap shaped switch > > Hi Steve, > > I actually purchased a couple of these 2nd hand from a local salvage yard > (most salvage yards have boxes of the things) and actually installed it in > my RV-6. > > That being said, it was only there for about 15 minutes. Why did I remove > it you ask; well...um....frankly, it looked stupid in my plane. So, I > sold > them on Ebay, and installed a regular toggle (which I put a White boot on) > and use that. Now, it matches the rest of my switches, and doesn't fludge > of the panel with a rather obnoxious protrusion....and....I don't desire > any > Cessna looking things on my beautiful RV panel :) > > Just my 2 cents and my opinion as usual. > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch > RV6's, Minneapolis > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Struyk > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Flap shaped switch > > > Anybody know where to get a flap switch shaped like a flap? I've seen them > on finished airplanes, but not in any catalogs on any mention of them in > the > archives. > > Thanks in advance > > Steve Struyk > RV-8, N842S (Res.) > St. Charles, MO > Finish > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 26, 2005
From: Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: compass fluid
Bill; I used hardware store Varsol when rebuilding an Airpath compass. Works fine. Fill a coffee can or similar container, immerse the compass and keep turning it until the air bubbles all escape. Jim Oke RV-6A, C-GKGZ Wpg., MB ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)access4less.net> Subject: RV-List: compass fluid > > Listers > > Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe > something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass > card. > > I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of > fluid > > Bill > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: nose wheel pant brackets.
Date: Feb 26, 2005
I have four aluminium nose wheel brackets (two pairs) in my hand. They are marked U-813D-R and L and U-813C-R and L. Their angles are very slightly different and the holes are placed differently. The 813-C holes are at the centre and the 813-D holes are offset. I do not have a drawing or instructions and I would like to know which of the two pairs mount onto the main axel bolt. Thanks, Jim in Kelowna ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 26, 2005
From: GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: nose wheel pant brackets.
Hi Jim 813-C mounts horizontally on axle bolt and 813-D near vertical on gear leg, sharp corner on both brackets is at the down and forward position. (6A drawing C1) George in Langley -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Jewell Subject: RV-List: nose wheel pant brackets. I have four aluminium nose wheel brackets (two pairs) in my hand. They are marked U-813D-R and L and U-813C-R and L. Their angles are very slightly different and the holes are placed differently. The 813-C holes are at the centre and the 813-D holes are offset. I do not have a drawing or instructions and I would like to know which of the two pairs mount onto the main axel bolt. Thanks, Jim in Kelowna ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Flap shaped switch
Date: Feb 27, 2005
>That being said, it was only there for about 15 minutes. Why did I remove >it you ask; well...um....frankly, it looked stupid in my plane. So, I sold >them on Ebay, and installed a regular toggle (which I put a White boot on) >and use that. Now, it matches the rest of my switches, and doesn't fludge >of the panel with a rather obnoxious protrusion....and....I don't desire >any >Cessna looking things on my beautiful RV panel :) I'm usually not one to try and talk someone out of building their custom plane custom, but I've got to go along with the above sentements. For goodness sake, you're building a tandem, conventional gear RV!! Put the flap switch on your stick or throttle. The functionality is so much greater if you can operate things like this without having to move your hand or look away! When I'm landing, I usually drop flaps on short final. They start coming up right after I get the mains down. I get the aero braking action on final to touchdown, then when I start retracting them on rollout, I get the wheels planted very firmly and remaining lift reduced. My hands never come off the flight controls. Don't try that with your panel mounted flap switch. another 2 cents Bryan -8 716 hrs Houston ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Flap shaped switch
> ... Put the > flap switch on your stick or throttle. The functionality is so much greater > if you can operate things like this without having to move your hand or look > away! > ... Bryan, Did you ever have trouble accidentally bumping the flaps while in cruise? Someone mentioned this as a risk when the flap switch is on the stick. I'm putting in a flaps on/off switch on my panel, right next to the trim on/off switch. Probably overkill... -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard McBride" <rickrv8(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Flap shaped switch
Date: Feb 27, 2005
Steve, Gulf Coast Avionics carries this switch. According to their catalog the switch handle is 1 inch long. The switch is DPDT, center off, momentary down. They're very proud of this jewel. It sells for $89.95. Rick McBride ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Struyk<mailto:rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 7:51 PM Subject: RV-List: Flap shaped switch Anybody know where to get a flap switch shaped like a flap? I've seen them on finished airplanes, but not in any catalogs on any mention of them in the archives. Thanks in advance Steve Struyk RV-8, N842S (Res.) St. Charles, MO Finish ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2005
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: cruise performance test data listed
> >Hi All, > >Has anyone else that is flying with a CS propeller noticed that at a fixed >altitude with full throttle the airspeed is almost constant even though the >RPM is changed from 2700 RPM to 2200 RPM? The only significant change is the >fuel flow. > >I just finished updating the performance information on my _www.lessdrag.com_ >(http://www.lessdrag.com) website on the "Lycoming 360 Propeller" page. > >For the Hartzell 2 blade propeller, the full throttle airspeed was 205 mph >tias at 2,500' at 2500 RPM and up. The full throttle airspeeds are >not listed >for 2400 and 2300 RPM, but they were 202 at 2400 RPM and 199 at 2300 RPM. > Jim - questions/comments: I looked at my O-360A power spreadsheet, and it looks like the power at 2300 rpm would be about 91% of the power at 2700 rpm. So, assuming prop efficiency is constant, you would expect the speed at 2300 rpm to be about 97% of the speed at 2700 rpm. Your data, averaged over all conditions from 5,000 ft to 12,500 feet for each prop shows: prop speed at 2300 rpm as percentage of speed at 2700 rpm Hartzell 2 blade - 99.0% MT 3 blade - 98.5% MT 2 blade - 96.9% MT Alum 2 blade - 100.4% Average - 98.7% But, the expected speed variation with the cube root of power assumes that the prop efficiency remains constant. I have seen several comments from people who race with our Hartzell props that they get just as much speed at 2600 rpm as they do at 2700 rpm, which seems to indicate that the prop efficiency may be falling off quite a bit as the rpm increases. The prop efficiency data I have from Hartzell does show a gradual decrease in prop efficiency with rpm. I ran the numbers for 5000 ft, and if we take the decrease in prop efficiency into account, we would expect the speed at 2300 rpm to be about 99% of the speed at 2700 rpm, which is bang on your average for the Hartzell. Is your data repeatable over several flights? Or, is it possible that you have "noisy" data? Your results seem to be based on taking IAS, and converting to TAS. Have you done any flight testing to calibrate your airspeeds? The ASI instrument error and static source position error may both vary a bit with speed. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: compass fluid
Date: Feb 27, 2005
Clear oil lantern fuel is the same stuff. Not the Colman fuel but for wick type lanterns. ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)access4less.net> Subject: RV-List: compass fluid > > Listers > > Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe > something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass > card. > > I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of > fluid > > Bill > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: lost tailwheel steering
Date: Feb 27, 2005
Yesterday I lost tailwheel steering on my RV-7. I had taxied, taken off, landed and taxied again, and it was business as usual...but when I went to leave, the rudder wasn't locking with the tailwheel. The winds were light, so this was no big deal, just took off and headed home. I had differential braking, obviously, so it was fine, but it was more than mildly annoying not having the usual steering authority and stability. Got back to the hangar and disassembled the tailwheel. I found that the problem was a very slight deformation of the spring-loaded key that inserts into the pivot shaft. The key was jamming inside the shaft. When I removed the tailwheel the key didn't spring back out like normal, and I had to tap it out from the opening on the front of the shaft. After cleaning it up, I used digital calipers to measure the height of the key. It was .2495" tall all the way to the back end (rounded end) where it was .2515" tall. Here's a photo: http://images.rvproject.com/images/2005/20050226_tailwheel_key.jpg The photo is a little fuzzy, but the arrows point to the little "build-ups" on the corners. That .002" was enough such that as the tailwheel shaft rotated and the key was forced all the way in, it would jam and not spring out...keeping the tailwheel from re-engaging with the control horn once it was centered again. I just filed a tiny bit off those little "built up" corners and the thing is smooth as silk again. I will most likely order a spare key to carry in my spare parts bag, just in case. Anyway, add this to your inspection list if it's not already on there. Make sure the key can slide in and out nice and smoothly. Any resistance should be addressed immediately imho. Loss of tailwheel steering at the wrong time could be unpleasant! )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (386 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 27, 2005
Subject: Re: compass fluid
Bill, I just got some compass fluid from Aircraft Spruce and didn't have to pay high shipping. It came UPS Ground. Be careful what you put in your compass. I used ultra pure lamp oil from Home Depot, etc. It worked just fine, but later I found that it gelled to a semi-solid at about 32 degrees F. There were ice crystals throughout the compass! No harm done, but a little annoying. That's why I now recommend the real stuff. Dan Hopper Walton, IN RV-7A (Flying since last July) In a message dated 2/26/05 8:39:52 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, rvpilot(at)access4less.net writes: Listers Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass card. I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of fluid Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2005
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Flap shaped switch
Bryan Jones wrote: > I'm usually not one to try and talk someone out of building their custom > plane custom, but I've got to go along with the above sentements. For > goodness sake, you're building a tandem, conventional gear RV!! Put the > flap switch on your stick or throttle. The functionality is so much greater > if you can operate things like this without having to move your hand or look > away! > > When I'm landing, I usually drop flaps on short final. They start coming up > right after I get the mains down. I get the aero braking action on final to > touchdown, then when I start retracting them on rollout, I get the wheels > planted very firmly and remaining lift reduced. My hands never come off the > flight controls. Don't try that with your panel mounted flap switch. The flap switch on my RV-6 is mounted on the panel just above the throttle. It is a very comfortable reach with the index finger to manage the switch while my hand is on the throttle; there is no problem with bumping the switch unintentionally. My hands never come off the flight controls. :-) Sam Buchanan http://thervjournal.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: lost tailwheel steering
Date: Feb 27, 2005
What brand tail wheel? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> Subject: RV-List: lost tailwheel steering > > Yesterday I lost tailwheel steering on my RV-7. I had taxied, taken off, > landed and taxied again, and it was business as usual...but when I went to > leave, the rudder wasn't locking with the tailwheel. The winds were > light, > so this was no big deal, just took off and headed home. I had > differential > braking, obviously, so it was fine, but it was more than mildly annoying > not > having the usual steering authority and stability. > > Got back to the hangar and disassembled the tailwheel. I found that the > problem was a very slight deformation of the spring-loaded key that > inserts > into the pivot shaft. The key was jamming inside the shaft. When I > removed > the tailwheel the key didn't spring back out like normal, and I had to tap > it out from the opening on the front of the shaft. > > After cleaning it up, I used digital calipers to measure the height of the > key. It was .2495" tall all the way to the back end (rounded end) where > it > was .2515" tall. Here's a photo: > > http://images.rvproject.com/images/2005/20050226_tailwheel_key.jpg > > The photo is a little fuzzy, but the arrows point to the little > "build-ups" > on the corners. That .002" was enough such that as the tailwheel shaft > rotated and the key was forced all the way in, it would jam and not spring > out...keeping the tailwheel from re-engaging with the control horn once it > was centered again. > > I just filed a tiny bit off those little "built up" corners and the thing > is > smooth as silk again. I will most likely order a spare key to carry in my > spare parts bag, just in case. > > Anyway, add this to your inspection list if it's not already on there. > Make > sure the key can slide in and out nice and smoothly. Any resistance > should > be addressed immediately imho. Loss of tailwheel steering at the wrong > time > could be unpleasant! > > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D (386 hours) > http://www.rvproject.com > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollins(at)visi.com>
Subject: Re: Primer Job looks like Crap...
Date: Feb 27, 2005
I've had generally the same results with the SW primer. The thing is: I really LIKE the primer. It's hard as nails. I've gone through 3/4 of a gallon of the stuff and I'm still experimenting with it; and I spent a lot of time last summer on various HVLP sites to get a good handle on how to use these things. By the time I did the flap components last fall, they were better. The problem seemed to be that the product wasn't atomizing enough. So I turned down the fluid just a bit and turned up the pressure (I think that's what I did). If you patrol the net for HVLP spray techniques, you'll probably find a step-by-step to how to set the gun properly. Because the instructions from Craftsman (maker of the HVLP gun) were crappy. Also, I made the first pass a "fog coat," rather than try to, you know, paint the piece. So a little more patience another solution (something I'm not very good at. I should point out that I tried some of that water based primer (the name of which I can't remember), and I didn't like the way that went on either. So that's what sent me to "HVLP school." I figured it was the painter, not the paint. What I really go for with SW is a tint more than anything else. Bob Collins St. Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2005
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Flap shaped switch
Sam Buchanan wrote: > > Bryan Jones wrote: > > > >>I'm usually not one to try and talk someone out of building their custom >>plane custom, but I've got to go along with the above sentements. For >>goodness sake, you're building a tandem, conventional gear RV!! Put the >>flap switch on your stick or throttle. The functionality is so much greater >>if you can operate things like this without having to move your hand or look >>away! >> >>When I'm landing, I usually drop flaps on short final. They start coming up >>right after I get the mains down. I get the aero braking action on final to >>touchdown, then when I start retracting them on rollout, I get the wheels >>planted very firmly and remaining lift reduced. My hands never come off the >>flight controls. Don't try that with your panel mounted flap switch. > > > > The flap switch on my RV-6 is mounted on the panel just above the > throttle. It is a very comfortable reach with the index finger to manage > the switch while my hand is on the throttle; there is no problem with > bumping the switch unintentionally. > > My hands never come off the flight controls. :-) > > Sam Buchanan > http://thervjournal.com I just noticed Bryan has an RV-8; obviously the panel-mounted flap switch is not the same situation for him as the side-by-side planes, and his comments would certainly be applicable to RV-4 and RV-8 drivers with their throttle quadrants. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] lost tailwheel steering
Date: Feb 27, 2005
> Hey Dan... Great Post. > > One question however... How many hours did you have on that Key? That > should give us a good window for our check list. Just over 384 hours when the key failed. And Cy asked: > What brand tail wheel? It's the standard Van's full swivel tailwheel, shipped in mid-2002. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (386 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Flap shaped switch
Date: Feb 27, 2005
If you put the switch just above the throttle "on the panel", you will have no trouble reaching it at any throttle position without removing your hand from either. You also will eliminate any potential confusion with other switches. IMHO, this is one of those things that really doesnt need to be improved upon. Works great, lasts a long time. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 165 hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap shaped switch > > >>That being said, it was only there for about 15 minutes. Why did I remove >>it you ask; well...um....frankly, it looked stupid in my plane. So, I >>sold >>them on Ebay, and installed a regular toggle (which I put a White boot on) >>and use that. Now, it matches the rest of my switches, and doesn't fludge >>of the panel with a rather obnoxious protrusion....and....I don't desire >>any >>Cessna looking things on my beautiful RV panel :) > > I'm usually not one to try and talk someone out of building their custom > plane custom, but I've got to go along with the above sentements. For > goodness sake, you're building a tandem, conventional gear RV!! Put the > flap switch on your stick or throttle. The functionality is so much > greater > if you can operate things like this without having to move your hand or > look > away! > > When I'm landing, I usually drop flaps on short final. They start coming > up > right after I get the mains down. I get the aero braking action on final > to > touchdown, then when I start retracting them on rollout, I get the wheels > planted very firmly and remaining lift reduced. My hands never come off > the > flight controls. Don't try that with your panel mounted flap switch. > > another 2 cents > > Bryan -8 716 hrs > Houston > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Henderson NC area info needed
Date: Feb 27, 2005
I have a friend who is moving to Henderson, and wife will be working in South hill Virg. Anybody in the area? Pls reply to my email, cheathco(at)comcast.net. do not archive. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: compass fluid
Date: Feb 27, 2005
I have watched all the compass stuff, seems that pure alcohol is what is normally used?? charlie heathco ----- Original Message ----- From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: compass fluid Bill, I just got some compass fluid from Aircraft Spruce and didn't have to pay high shipping. It came UPS Ground. Be careful what you put in your compass. I used ultra pure lamp oil from Home Depot, etc. It worked just fine, but later I found that it gelled to a semi-solid at about 32 degrees F. There were ice crystals throughout the compass! No harm done, but a little annoying. That's why I now recommend the real stuff. Dan Hopper Walton, IN RV-7A (Flying since last July) In a message dated 2/26/05 8:39:52 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, rvpilot(at)access4less.net writes: Listers Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass card. I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of fluid Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Flap shaped switch
Date: Feb 27, 2005
Sam, I'm going to disagree with your retraction of your disagreement with Bryan. My RV-8A's flap switch is mounted on the panel, right above the throttle, and of course on an RV-8 that is on the left side of the cockpit. I think I first saw that arrangement on Kevin Horton's panel layout. I like it because I can reach it easily with my left hand without taking if off the throttle, and it's NOT one of the many switches on the Infinity stick grip. Of course I could change my mind when I start flying this 7 year old project, but I don't think so. I did make a flap-shaped handle for the flap toggle switch, but I don't like the way it twists on the toggle. I may epoxy it to the toggle, IF I determine that the toggle itself won't rotate. I used cutting board plastic (handy stuff to have around) and made the hole a friction fit over the toggle. Terry RV-8A #80729 Seattle I just noticed Bryan has an RV-8; obviously the panel-mounted flap switch is not the same situation for him as the side-by-side planes, and his comments would certainly be applicable to RV-4 and RV-8 drivers with their throttle quadrants. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: compass fluid
Date: Feb 27, 2005
I'm sorry but NO modern compass for airplanes uses alcohol. NEVER ever use alcohol when re-filling. It is a mis-nomer to call it a whisky compass as it doesn't have any whisky or alcohol. Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club Newsletter Editor-in-Chief & EAA TC www.bellanca-championclub.com Actively supporting Bellancas every day ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: compass fluid > > I have watched all the compass stuff, seems that pure alcohol is what is > normally used?? charlie heathco > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: compass fluid > > > Bill, > > I just got some compass fluid from Aircraft Spruce and didn't have to pay > high shipping. It came UPS Ground. > > Be careful what you put in your compass. I used ultra pure lamp oil from > Home Depot, etc. It worked just fine, but later I found that it gelled > to > a > semi-solid at about 32 degrees F. There were ice crystals throughout the > compass! No harm done, but a little annoying. That's why I now > recommend > the > real stuff. > > Dan Hopper > Walton, IN > RV-7A (Flying since last July) > > > In a message dated 2/26/05 8:39:52 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, > rvpilot(at)access4less.net writes: > Listers > > Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe > something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass > card. > > I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of > fluid > > Bill > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2005
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Flap shaped switch
Terry Watson wrote: > > Sam, > > I'm going to disagree with your retraction of your disagreement with Bryan. Ok....in that case I retract the retraction! :-) Man, it's great knowing I'm right regardless of which side I take!!! Sam Buchanan ============================= > > My RV-8A's flap switch is mounted on the panel, right above the throttle, > and of course on an RV-8 that is on the left side of the cockpit. I think I > first saw that arrangement on Kevin Horton's panel layout. I like it > because I can reach it easily with my left hand without taking if off the > throttle, and it's NOT one of the many switches on the Infinity stick grip. > > Of course I could change my mind when I start flying this 7 year old > project, but I don't think so. > > I did make a flap-shaped handle for the flap toggle switch, but I don't like > the way it twists on the toggle. I may epoxy it to the toggle, IF I > determine that the toggle itself won't rotate. I used cutting board plastic > (handy stuff to have around) and made the hole a friction fit over the > toggle. > > Terry > RV-8A #80729 > Seattle > > > > I just noticed Bryan has an RV-8; obviously the panel-mounted flap > switch is not the same situation for him as the side-by-side planes, and > his comments would certainly be applicable to RV-4 and RV-8 drivers with > their throttle quadrants. > > Sam Buchanan > > > > > > > > . > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "mailindex(at)juno.com" <mailindex(at)juno.com>
Date: Feb 27, 2005
Subject: Re: compass fluid
I have used baby oil in the past with good luck >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Listers Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass card. I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of fluid Bill Now includes pop-up blocker! Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Flap shaped switch
Date: Feb 27, 2005
I may have once or twice over 700+ hrs, but with no consequences since it's a momentary switch. What I did do once early on was to catch it with a pant leg. broke the switch. I learned to not do that again! Bryan > >Did you ever have trouble accidentally bumping the flaps while >in cruise? Someone mentioned this as a risk when the flap >switch is on the stick. I'm putting in a flaps on/off switch >on my panel, right next to the trim on/off switch. Probably >overkill... > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Flap shaped switch
Date: Feb 27, 2005
>If you put the switch just above the throttle "on the panel", you will have >no trouble reaching it at any throttle position without removing your hand >from either. You also will eliminate any potential confusion with other >switches. IMHO, this is one of those things that really doesnt need to be >improved upon. Works great, lasts a long time. > >Shemp/Jeff Dowling >RV-6A, N915JD >165 hours >Chicago/Louisville Notice we're talking RV-8. Panel is not reachable from the throttle quadrant without having the throttle at full and stretching your fingers. RV-4 is very similar. Very awkward. Bryan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: Flap shaped switch
Date: Feb 27, 2005
this won't sound very humble, but I believe the flap switch setup my -6 has is as close to ideal as is possible. with a left-hand throttle for the left-seat pilot, the original tiny ball on top of the lever was removed and a mil-surplus throttle grip was bolted on in its place. This grip comes with a three-position, slide switch, with raised guards on either side, that was originally used for thumbing the speedbrakes in and out, as well as having a separate mic PTT button. It was a simple matter to wire up the flap motor to the switch, and my thumb is always right beside it whenever the rest of my hand is on the throttle. Picture of same on the Western Canada Wing website, under members' airplanes. Scott in Vancouver ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap shaped switch > >>If you put the switch just above the throttle "on the panel", you will >>have >>no trouble reaching it at any throttle position without removing your hand >>from either. You also will eliminate any potential confusion with other >>switches. IMHO, this is one of those things that really doesnt need to be >>improved upon. Works great, lasts a long time. >> >>Shemp/Jeff Dowling >>RV-6A, N915JD >>165 hours >>Chicago/Louisville > > > Notice we're talking RV-8. Panel is not reachable from the throttle > quadrant without having the throttle at full and stretching your fingers. > RV-4 is very similar. Very awkward. > > Bryan > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
Date: Feb 27, 2005
> > I am very frustrated. Today I attempted to paint my wing ribs with Sherwin Williams P60 G2 Primer and it looked horrible. I finally gave up > and am going to do them with the good old spray cans from NAPA. However, I am interested in if I was doing something wrong or if this > primer never goes on consistent. I have painted many times before, I am not new to it. I used the suggested mix ratio of 1:1.5 on the > reducer and I am used two different paint guns and messed with the settings on each for 45 minutes or more before giving up. Basically, > the paint looked splattered when it went on. Not a consistent color. I know the primer is supposed to be a semi-transparent green which > makes it harder but it just looked bad and I dont remember seeing that on other planes I have looked at. Anyway, any feedback would > help. I was using pressure between 40-70 P.S.I too. Thanks. > > - Matt Mix it two to one, this was common knowledge a few years ago, guess it hasn't been discussed in a while. Randy Lervold www.rv-3.com www.rv-8.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: emrath(at)comcast.net
Subject: RE: Compass Fluid
Date: Feb 28, 2005
Bill, try doing a search on this list, there has been a number of others asking this question. I don't recall all the responses, but years ago, I heard that Baby Oil will work very nicely. Marty in Brentwood TN From: Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> Subject: Re: RV-List: compass fluid Bill; I used hardware store Varsol when rebuilding an Airpath compass. Works fine. Fill a coffee can or similar container, immerse the compass and keep turning it until the air bubbles all escape. Jim Oke RV-6A, C-GKGZ Wpg., MB ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)access4less.net> Subject: RV-List: compass fluid > > Listers > > Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe > something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass > card. > > I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of > fluid > > Bill > > > Bill, try doing a search on this list, there has been a number of others asking this question. I don't recall all the responses, but years ago, I heard that Baby Oil will work very nicely. Marty in Brentwood TN From: Jim Oke wjoke(at)shaw.ca Subject: Re: RV-List: compass fluid -- RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke wjoke(at)shaw.ca Bill; I used hardware store Varsol when rebuilding an Airpath compass. Works fine. Fill a coffee can or similar container, immerse the compass and keep turning it until the air bubbles all escape. Jim Oke RV-6A, C-GKGZ Wpg., MB ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Davis" <A onclick="return doCompose(this);" 00761438089B0E9D030A?cmd=ComposeToadr=rvpilot%40access4less%2Enetsid=c0">rvpilot(at)access4less.net Subject: RV-List: compass fluid -- RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" rvpilot(at)access4less.net Listers Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass card. I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of fluid Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2005
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary??
(not processed: message from valid local sender) One more question I had regarding priming prep. I know some people say it is not necessary to prime the internal parts. However, if you count on the alclad to protect the metal, do you have to worry about scratching it? I know it is a very thin coating. Also, if you do prime it, is it necessary to sand the whole part down to score it if you are using self-etching primer? I am spending a lot of time scoring parts prior to priming and it is a pain. I want to make sure it is something everyone is doing and I am not wasting my time. I also wasnt sure if the only parts with the coating are the ones that are shiny (like the skin) or if it is all parts (like the wing ribs). Sorry for all the questions in one email... - Matt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Subject: fixed pitch to CS conversion
Date: Feb 28, 2005
A friend of mine bought an O-360-A1A from Vans for a FP prop and now wants to convert it to CS. He as the overhaul manual and it briefly discusses the conversion but he says he needs to know a bit more about just how to take some plug out or something like that. Is there an online resource he can take a look at? Or has anyone done it and willing to take a phone call from him? Thanks, Lucky A friend of mine bought an O-360-A1A from Vans for a FP prop and now wants to convert it to CS. He as the overhaul manual and it briefly discusses the conversion but he says he needs to know a bit more about just how to take some plug out or something like that. Is there an online resource he can take a look at? Or has anyone done it and willing to take a phone call from him? Thanks, Lucky ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: fixed pitch to CS conversion
Date: Feb 27, 2005
No problem. I can be reached at 330-324-2041 John Furey RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 27, 2005
Subject: Re: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not processed:
me... In a message dated 02/27/2005 7:16:48 PM Central Standard Time, matt(at)n559rv.com writes: Also, if you do prime it, is it necessary to sand the whole part down to score it if you are using self-etching primer? I am spending a lot of time scoring parts prior to priming and it is a pain. >>> I don't believe you really need to "score" it, just scuff it with Scotchbrite (I like the red #7447) enough to take the shine off the surface, which gives the primer some really raw material to bite into, then wipe it all down really well (I used naphtha) before applying the primer- you'll be amazed how much stuff is left on the part after scuffing. Another tip- ALWAYS wipe the parts down with solvent (did I mention naphtha?) BEFORE scuffing because your fingers will always leave oil on the part, and even the Scotchbrite will not scuff the part where the oil is. I noticed on some of my early parts that after scuffing that there were places here and there on the part that did not scuff well (still relatively shiny), and they were all the size of fingerprints! Use nitrile gloves when wiping, and cotton cloves while handling the clean parts before/during priming. From The PossumWorks in TN Mark Phillips -6A N51PW, 150 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 27, 2005
Subject: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up?
My RV9A now has 27 hours on it. The 0-320 E2-D runs great - except that every now and then the engine will "hic-up". It only last for a fraction of a second - just enough to test one's sphinter control. I can't be sure (yet), but it seems to occur more often when running on the left tank. Then it goes back to running well. She has new plugs, new carb, new mags and wiring harness. When it hic-ups the fuel flow and pressure are unchanged. All temps are normal. I have a theory that I want an opinion on. Occasionally I get a smell of fuel in the cockpit when on the ground. I have checked the fuel lines and selector valve and find no obvious leaks, although the smell seems to come from the selector valve area. If there is a small leak between the tank and the fuel pump(s), the fuel is being drawn by a vacuum and would then suck up small amouts of air into the fuel line without showing a leak. (The fuel is drawn by vacuum and therefore would not drip out the line.) Would a small air bubble in the fuel line cause the engine to occasionally burp? If this is the problem am I damaging the engine? If you guys think this might be the cultret, maybe I should replace the selector valve since all the connections look good. Not a job I look forward to unless I have to .... Thanks for everyone's help! Kim Nicholas RV9A Auburn, Washington. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up?
Date: Feb 27, 2005
Are you operating in range of temperature (65 deg F or lower) and above 50% humidity so that you might be getting some carb ice building up and breaking off? That's what my Piper Cub did the day in December 1956 when running below an overcast at 800 feet coming out of San Antonio - five minutes later the engine quit cold - until I hit the throttle and broke a lot of ice loose. I immediately pulled on carb heat and then it ran "really bad" as it ingested all that water, but caught and cleared up before prop stopped (can't dive a Cub to restart engine). Next time you get that "hic-up", pull on carb heat and see if it runs bad for a few seconds as you melt out ice. You do have carb heat don't you? Guy in Utah I know didn't - and had to replace both fuel tanks after he took out some fence posts after his forced landing. Then he added carb heat system. David ----- Original Message ----- From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? > > My RV9A now has 27 hours on it. The 0-320 E2-D runs great - except that > every now and then the engine will "hic-up". It only last for a fraction of a > second - just enough to test one's sphinter control. I can't be sure (yet), but > it seems to occur more often when running on the left tank. Then it goes > back to running well. She has new plugs, new carb, new mags and wiring harness. > When it hic-ups the fuel flow and pressure are unchanged. All temps are > normal. > > I have a theory that I want an opinion on. > > Occasionally I get a smell of fuel in the cockpit when on the ground. I have > checked the fuel lines and selector valve and find no obvious leaks, although > the smell seems to come from the selector valve area. If there is a small > leak between the tank and the fuel pump(s), the fuel is being drawn by a vacuum > and would then suck up small amouts of air into the fuel line without showing > a leak. (The fuel is drawn by vacuum and therefore would not drip out the > line.) Would a small air bubble in the fuel line cause the engine to > occasionally burp? > > If this is the problem am I damaging the engine? > > If you guys think this might be the cultret, maybe I should replace the > selector valve since all the connections look good. Not a job I look forward to > unless I have to .... > > Thanks for everyone's help! > > Kim Nicholas > RV9A Auburn, Washington. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 28, 2005
Subject: Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up?
Kim: You don't say what brand of fuel valve you have. FWIW I have an Andair valve and discovered at about 15 hours that it was leaking very slightly at the square plate on the front of the valve into which the AN fitting to the right tank threads. I disassembled the fuel valve console, removed the valve, tightened the four screws that secure the square plate and staked them (only the Brits do this kind of thing). Eighteen hours later I don't have any more leaks, but have my fingers crossed. As far as the engine hiccups are concerned, now that I think back I may have had a few early on but would hesitate to blame them on the seeping fuel valve. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 28, 2005
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Cracked dimples.
Help: The bottom fuselage skin on my RV-6A sticks out on both sides and is screwed to the wing root ribs after the wings are installed (to add strength to the entire assembly according to Vans). I forgot about this little detail until I was doing some stuff under the airplane recently and realized that I hadn't done that yet. So I went and drilled the skin to the wings then, painful as it was, pulled the wing back out to install the nutplates in the root rib and dimple the screw holes in the fuselage bottom skin. Flush number 8 machine screws were called for so I drilled #19 holes and used an Avery dimple die that was specifically made for #8 screws. Problem is, now that the .025 bottom skin has been dimpled I noticed that there are cracks running down the cones (raised areas) of most of the dimples. I know this is not a good thing and I'm wondering what to do about it. I've been working on this airplane for a long time and the thought of having to do more rework is very discouraging! Especially when I'm just doing what Van's plans tell me to do. Should I cut the bottom skin off past the screw holes, rivet on a new piece and re-drill and re-dimple (no guarantee the replacement won't crack too)? I really hate to do that because the skin is one piece and an integral part of the bottom fuselage right now. Since the skin is screwed to the bottom of the wing, I assume that as the wings take on positive G loads they will put stress on the dimpled holes of the fuselage bottom skin and make the cracks worse. Has anybody else experienced this? Any recommendations on how to fix it? Thanks. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Unhappy at Hidden Lakes ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 28, 2005
Subject: Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up?
I would think it unlikely a occasional air leak would cause a hick up. The fuel is going into a vented chamber in the carb so air would be able to vent out. Now fuel injection would be a different story. I have had this hick up on my O-320 with fuel injection for a while and still am trying to figure it out. Stewart, RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up?
Date: Feb 28, 2005
Kim, assuming you are running av gas, I have experienced an occasional hickup on my cherokee with o-320 e2a, which does indead get your attention. A&P friend atributes these to av gas lead fowling burn off. I havent experienced this with my RV burning Mo gas. Charlie heathco ----- Original Message ----- From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? Kim: You don't say what brand of fuel valve you have. FWIW I have an Andair valve and discovered at about 15 hours that it was leaking very slightly at the square plate on the front of the valve into which the AN fitting to the right tank threads. I disassembled the fuel valve console, removed the valve, tightened the four screws that secure the square plate and staked them (only the Brits do this kind of thing). Eighteen hours later I don't have any more leaks, but have my fingers crossed. As far as the engine hiccups are concerned, now that I think back I may have had a few early on but would hesitate to blame them on the seeping fuel valve. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Helming, L R & K L" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not processed:
me...
Date: Feb 28, 2005
I will add some to the Mark's response. Before scuffing with scotchbrite, clean with naptha (aka coleman lantern fuel) using clean cloth and wash the surface well with a good soap such as Dawn dishwashing soap. This gets rid of any oil, finger prints, etc. I like to use the soap also while scotchbriting it. Then wear rubber gloves and rinse well and do not allow your skin to touch the surface before priming. Larry in Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: <Fiveonepw(at)aol.com>


February 19, 2005 - February 28, 2005

RV-Archive.digest.vol-qn