RV-Archive.digest.vol-qo
February 28, 2005 - March 08, 2005
| Subject: | Re: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not |
processed: me...
>
> In a message dated 02/27/2005 7:16:48 PM Central Standard Time,
> matt(at)n559rv.com writes:
> Also, if you do prime it,
> is it necessary to sand the whole part down to score it if you are using
> self-etching primer? I am spending a lot of time scoring parts prior to
> priming and it is a pain.
>>>>
>
> I don't believe you really need to "score" it, just scuff it with
> Scotchbrite
> (I like the red #7447) enough to take the shine off the surface, which
> gives
> the primer some really raw material to bite into, then wipe it all down
> really
> well (I used naphtha) before applying the primer- you'll be amazed how
> much
> stuff is left on the part after scuffing. Another tip- ALWAYS wipe the
> parts
> down with solvent (did I mention naphtha?) BEFORE scuffing because your
> fingers
> will always leave oil on the part, and even the Scotchbrite will not scuff
> the part where the oil is. I noticed on some of my early parts that after
> scuffing that there were places here and there on the part that did not
> scuff well
> (still relatively shiny), and they were all the size of fingerprints! Use
> nitrile gloves when wiping, and cotton cloves while handling the clean
> parts
> before/during priming.
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips -6A N51PW, 150 hrs.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked dimples. |
Dean
I had the same thing happen when I dimpled my first fuel tank skin. I
asked my local RV guru what to do. (he's and A&P/IA) He told me to use a
small jeweler's file and carefully file out the cracks. He told me that the
cracks form do to the extreme stretching of the aluminum by the #8 die. He
told me that using a #17 drill (rather than a #19) will eliminate the
cracking, without unduly weakening the dimpled hole. I've used that method
since than, with 100% success.
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>Help:
>
>The bottom fuselage skin on my RV-6A sticks out on both sides and is screwed
>to the wing root ribs after the wings are installed (to add strength to the
>entire assembly according to Vans). I forgot about this little detail until
>I was doing some stuff under the airplane recently and realized that I
>hadn't done that yet. So I went and drilled the skin to the wings then,
>painful as it was, pulled the wing back out to install the nutplates in the
>root rib and dimple the screw holes in the fuselage bottom skin. Flush
>number 8 machine screws were called for so I drilled #19 holes and used an
>Avery dimple die that was specifically made for #8 screws. Problem is, now
>that the .025 bottom skin has been dimpled I noticed that there are cracks
>running down the cones (raised areas) of most of the dimples. I know this is
>not a good thing and I'm wondering what to do about it. I've been working
>on this airplane for a long time and the thought of having to do more rework
>is very discouraging! Especially when I'm just doing what Van's plans tell
>me to do. Should I cut the bottom skin off past the screw holes, rivet on a
>new piece and re-drill and re-dimple (no guarantee the replacement won't
>crack too)? I really hate to do that because the skin is one piece and an
>integral part of the bottom fuselage right now. Since the skin is screwed
>to the bottom of the wing, I assume that as the wings take on positive G
>loads they will put stress on the dimpled holes of the fuselage bottom skin
>and make the cracks worse. Has anybody else experienced this? Any
>recommendations on how to fix it? Thanks.
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Unhappy at Hidden Lakes
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lost tailwheel steering |
I had this happen at 60hrs. It must not be that uncommon. I polished the
pawl and lubed everything with 30WT oil instead of grease. I don't know if
it helps but I found information in the archives that the tailwheel stems
work better with oil.
Chris Brooks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | compass fluid : Try Jet_a Fuel |
RV-List: compass fluid.
I use Jet-A fuel as compass refill fluid. Its ultra pure, no water to
freeze, no smelly sulphers or waxes and it is F R E E. Normally a quick
sump from a King Air( or any other like aircraft), with owner permission,
with my sump fuel checker is all that is needed to get enough fluid to fill
the compass cavity..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked dimples. |
In a message dated 2/28/05 8:50:10 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
chaztuna(at)adelphia.net writes:
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D |
Very interesting numbers. From everything I have read and from what your
numbers show, it looks like at take off power, cylinders 3 and 4 may be
running too lean. Boy am I glad I sprung for the injection up front!
>
>As I mentioned on my previous post, I've been testing our
>new engine monitor. In addition to the on-the-ground test
>I described in my last post, I also did some in-air work
>looking at leaning at 3000', 5000', and 7000'. My plane
>has an O320-E2D with a Sensenich fixed pitch prop. I have
>a Slick mag on the left ignition and a Lightspeed on the
>right side.
>
>The test was to stabilize the plane at each of the 3 altitudes
>with full-rich mixture and 2400 RPM. I then recorded the EGTs
>at this condition. I then slowly leaned the mixture to where
>the engine roughened and then richened just enough to get it
>to run smooth. I let it stabilize and recorded the temperatures.
>
>Here is the data:
>3000' stable at 2400 RPM
>Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
>1 1220 1387 +167
>2 1284 1421 +137
>3 1364 1419 +55
>4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st.
>
>5000' stable at 2400 RPM
>Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
>1 1207 1358 +151
>2 1229 1383 +154
>3 1332 1390 +58
>4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st.
>
>7000' stable at 2400 RPM
>Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
>1 1137 1353 +216
>2 1170 1381 +211
>3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st.
>4 1321 1373 +52
>
>As you can see, cylinders 3 and 4 seem to be running
>much leaner than 1 and 2 when the mixture is full
>rich. I observe that the EGTs really even out when I
>lean the mixture.
>
>I note that on the ground at 1500 RPM full-rich, all
>my EGTs were in a fairly normal band from 1140-1193.
>
>Any of the engine gurus (or not so gurus) have any
>thoughts about what I'm seeing? Has anyone else done
>a test like this? If so, can you post your results?
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Medema
>RV-6A N276DM
>Dynon Avionics
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Electronic ign & mag combo |
In the prev posts re EGT's I noticed the engine had a mag and a Lightspeed. I have
been considering making the change, but recall Ed whatshisname in Greensboro
telling me he had taken his electrnic off and going back to dual mags because
of problems. I would like to heare current thoughts on this, charlie heathco
LZU
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cruise performance data |
One thing that has not been mentioned here is that the MT shines at cruise
power settings.
>
>Hi All,
>
>Just thought I would mention, before the flames start, that the 3 blade MT
>propeller performed about the same as the Hartzell 2 blade propeller at
>7,500'
>and above.
>
>This seems to be in conflict with the test data provided by Van's Aircraft
>in the RVator.
>
>Van's Aircraft used a 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59 propeller.
>
>I used a 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59d propeller. MT Propeller modified the
>blades for better performance. That is why the added little letter "d"
>appears
>in the propeller designation.
>
>MT Propeller now has a 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59b propeller. This propeller
>is predicted to have 3 or 4 knots better performance than the -59d blades.
>
>The MTV-12-B/183-59b propeller is the only 3 blade propeller from MT
>Propeller that does NOT have a mid range RPM restriction on the
>Lycoming 360 engine
>without crankshaft counterweights.
>
>The MTV-12-B/183-59 propeller DOES have a mid range RPM restriction from
>2050 to 2300 RPM on the Lycoming 360 engine without crankshaft dampeners.
>
>Regards,
>Jim Ayers
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
Hey anyone,
I have a friend who is building an RV-6, he bought the kit partially
completed. He is now working on the fuel tanks and would like to know how
long it should take for the pro seal to cure and what it should look and
feel like when that happens. He is using the recommended mix proportions
and it is a new batch of material.
Thanks,
Paul Rice
RV-8QB working on rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
In a message dated 2/27/2005 9:01:03 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
dcarter(at)datarecall.net writes:
Are you operating in range of temperature (65 deg F or lower) and above 50%
humidity so that you might be getting some carb ice building up and breaking
off?
Thanks to all who offered input. I guess I should give some additional
information.
-Yes, I am using AV gas 100LL. I try to lean it out - especially on the
ground.
-When I checked the plugs they were all moderately lead fouled. It
hic-up'd even with brand new plugs.
-The fuel selector is the one that Van included in the kit so I don't
remember the brand.
- It has been cold here and high humidity (after all , this IS Seattle!)
but it would hic-up even in the summer when the temperatures were in the mid
70's.
The idea of the hic up being burning off carbon sounds good but I would sure
like a more definative answer....
Thanks again,
Kim Nicholas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Primer Job looks like Crap... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Wow, I just called NAPA on this stuff and the 8846 is $154.89 a gallon and the
8848 is $96.99 a gallon...
Also, it is both epoxy and self etching? I thought the epoxy's were not self etching...
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks(at)comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 21:50:30 -0500
Subject: RE: RV-List: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
>
> When you go down to NAPA, you might ask for their 8846 and 8848 (primer
> and reducer). It's a 2-part, self etching epoxy primer, and does a
> fantastic job for me. I also keep a few cans of the spray version on
> hand as well for small jobs, but it is not as resistant to scratches,
> etc.
>
> In the past, I had a batch (on the inside of the rudder skin) that came
> out terrible as well. Turned out, I didn't shake up the primer can and
> get it mixed well enough before mixing it in with the reducer. But it
> was the same deal as yours, in that no one will ever see it.
>
> With regards to the Sherwin Williams, I haven't used it, but have heard
> of several on the list who were really happy with it as well. Wish I
> could offer a solution for you there.
>
> Bryan Hooks
> RV-7A slow-build
> Knoxville, TN
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Johnson
> To: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message
> from valid local sender)
>
>
> I am very frustrated. Today I attempted to paint my wing ribs with
> Sherwin Williams P60 G2 Primer and it looked horrible. I finally gave
> up
>
> and am going to do them with the good old spray cans from NAPA.
> However,
> I am interested in if I was doing something wrong or if this
> primer never goes on consistent. I have painted many times before, I am
> not new to it. I used the suggested mix ratio of 1:1.5 on the
> reducer and I am used two different paint guns and messed with the
> settings on each for 45 minutes or more before giving up. Basically,
> the paint looked splattered when it went on. Not a consistent color. I
> know the primer is supposed to be a semi-transparent green which
> makes it harder but it just looked bad and I dont remember seeing that
> on other planes I have looked at. Anyway, any feedback would
> help. I was using pressure between 40-70 P.S.I too. Thanks.
>
> - Matt
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cruise performance test data listed |
Hi Kevin and all,
Repeatability of the instruments is important in comparison testing, not
accuracy. (One aircraft without modifications between propeller tests. True
ias used to compensate for differences in pressure and temperature.)
Each reading was made to the nearest mph ias. The repeatability of this
reading alone is only within 1 mph.
Even though we were flying in smooth air up to 80 miles out to sea, we were
over some islands, and were getting occasional up and down drafts (standing
waves).
My best guess is each data point is accurate within 4 mph ias.
For the 30 plus data points taken for each propeller, there doesn't appear
to be any significant difference in the performance of these cruise CS
propellers.
Some trends can be observed.
The Hartzell appears to have a slight performance edge at 2,500'.
The MT 3 blade seems to have a light performance edge at 7,500' and above.
(Both of these 2 blade vs 3 blade trends are correct for CURRENT propeller
theory.)
Each flight involved 5 different altitudes with 5 to 10 power settings at
each altitude. My friend with the RV-6A seemed to loose interest in this type
of flying after 7 flights. :-)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 02/27/2005 11:59:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: cruise performance test data listed
(Stuff cut)
Is your data repeatable over several flights? Or, is it possible
that you have "noisy" data?
Your results seem to be based on taking IAS, and converting to TAS.
Have you done any flight testing to calibrate your airspeeds? The
ASI instrument error and static source position error may both vary a
bit with speed.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked dimples. |
On 5:40:30 2005-02-28 Charlie Kuss wrote:
> I asked my local RV guru what to do. (he's and A&P/IA) He told me to
> use a small jeweler's file and carefully file out the cracks. He told
> me that the cracks form do to the extreme stretching of the aluminum
> by the #8 die.
I wouldn't recommend trying to "file out" the cracks. Unless you've got a
dye penetrant kit handy, you probably can't see the end of the crack, so
you don't know how far to file. You also might miss micro-cracks along the
perimeter of the hole that will develop later into larger cracks.
> He told me that using a #17 drill (rather than a #19)
> will eliminate the cracking, without unduly weakening the dimpled
> hole. I've used that method since than, with 100% success.
I think this is the best solution. Unfortunately in this case, I think it
means the builder will be replacing a skin (or part of a skin) to do it.
Do we call these "skin grafts" when building airplanes? 8-)
-Rob
> >
> > Should I cut the bottom skin off past the screw holes, rivet
> > on a new piece and re-drill and re-dimple (no guarantee the
> > replacement won't crack too)? I really hate to do that because the
> > skin is one piece and an integral part of the bottom fuselage right
> > now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
Paul,
In general, Pro-Seal should take about 64 hours to become tack free and 112
hours to become completely cured. This is based on a temperature of about
75 deg. F. If it is cooler, it will take a bit longer. It should be a dark
grey in appearance and should be fairly hard to the touch, but is somewhat
rubbery and will dent if pressed hard.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: pro seal
>
> Hey anyone,
>
> I have a friend who is building an RV-6, he bought the kit partially
> completed. He is now working on the fuel tanks and would like to know how
> long it should take for the pro seal to cure and what it should look and
> feel like when that happens. He is using the recommended mix proportions
> and it is a new batch of material.
>
> Thanks,
> Paul Rice
> RV-8QB working on rudder
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
It takes several days to cure (highly dependent on the ambient
temperature) completely. When cured it is a firm rubbery consistency.
Dick Tasker
Paul Rice wrote:
>
>Hey anyone,
>
>I have a friend who is building an RV-6, he bought the kit partially
>completed. He is now working on the fuel tanks and would like to know how
>long it should take for the pro seal to cure and what it should look and
>feel like when that happens. He is using the recommended mix proportions
>and it is a new batch of material.
>
>Thanks,
>Paul Rice
>RV-8QB working on rudder
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 0-320 E2D hiccups |
If the hiccups are very slight, here is a possible explanation: I flew
this exact engine for 1,000 hours in my 172 and always observed those very
slight "hiccups" when cruising at lean mixture. It is MUCH less than a cylinder
missfire. I believe it is a random misfire of one of the two plugs due to the
mixture not being perfect at that plug, happening about one time per thousand
firings. That will produce a very slight reduction in power from that
cylinder, that cycle. This was totally predictible when cruising with very lean
mixture. No harm done!
Paul S. Petersen Minnetonka MN, RV6A with son
Eric, 90% complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
One last question, is the hickup just one very brief miss, say 1/2 to 1
second (a long time when you hear and feel it :-)), and only on occasion? If
so, My A&P buddy says not to worry. (I know I know :-) ) Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up?
In a message dated 2/27/2005 9:01:03 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
dcarter(at)datarecall.net writes:
Are you operating in range of temperature (65 deg F or lower) and above
50%
humidity so that you might be getting some carb ice building up and
breaking
off?
Thanks to all who offered input. I guess I should give some additional
information.
-Yes, I am using AV gas 100LL. I try to lean it out - especially on the
ground.
-When I checked the plugs they were all moderately lead fouled. It
hic-up'd even with brand new plugs.
-The fuel selector is the one that Van included in the kit so I don't
remember the brand.
- It has been cold here and high humidity (after all , this IS Seattle!)
but it would hic-up even in the summer when the temperatures were in the
mid
70's.
The idea of the hic up being burning off carbon sounds good but I would
sure
like a more definative answer....
Thanks again,
Kim Nicholas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not processed: |
me...
And I will add to Larry's comments... I "scuff" my parts wet with Coleman
fuel, I keep an old half milk jug around to dip the Scotchbrite pad in, then
wipe them down with a clean towel dampened with more clean Coleman fuel, and
then prime. This technique has always produce a very durable primer coat and
is a bit more efficient labor-wise.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Helming, L R & K L" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not
processed: me...
>
> I will add some to the Mark's response. Before scuffing with scotchbrite,
> clean with naptha (aka coleman lantern fuel) using clean cloth and wash
the
> surface well with a good soap such as Dawn dishwashing soap. This gets
rid
> of any oil, finger prints, etc. I like to use the soap also while
> scotchbriting it. Then wear rubber gloves and rinse well and do not allow
> your skin to touch the surface before priming. Larry in Indiana
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Fiveonepw(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not
> processed: me...
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 02/27/2005 7:16:48 PM Central Standard Time,
> > matt(at)n559rv.com writes:
> > Also, if you do prime it,
> > is it necessary to sand the whole part down to score it if you are using
> > self-etching primer? I am spending a lot of time scoring parts prior to
> > priming and it is a pain.
> >>>>
> >
> > I don't believe you really need to "score" it, just scuff it with
> > Scotchbrite
> > (I like the red #7447) enough to take the shine off the surface, which
> > gives
> > the primer some really raw material to bite into, then wipe it all down
> > really
> > well (I used naphtha) before applying the primer- you'll be amazed how
> > much
> > stuff is left on the part after scuffing. Another tip- ALWAYS wipe the
> > parts
> > down with solvent (did I mention naphtha?) BEFORE scuffing because your
> > fingers
> > will always leave oil on the part, and even the Scotchbrite will not
scuff
> > the part where the oil is. I noticed on some of my early parts that
after
> > scuffing that there were places here and there on the part that did not
> > scuff well
> > (still relatively shiny), and they were all the size of fingerprints!
Use
> > nitrile gloves when wiping, and cotton cloves while handling the clean
> > parts
> > before/during priming.
> >
> > From The PossumWorks in TN
> > Mark Phillips -6A N51PW, 150 hrs.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
In a message dated 2/28/2005 9:46:37 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
cheathco(at)comcast.net writes:
One last question, is the hickup just one very brief miss, say 1/2 to 1
second (a long time when you hear and feel it :-)), and only on occasion?
Yes. It is very brief - 1/2 second and only on occasion. And yes, it
seems to be forever. Somehow I don't find it very reassuring that your AP says
not to worry. He is not in the plane when it happens!!! :)
Thanks again,
Kim Nicholas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Electronic ign & mag combo |
Charles,
We kept our impluse mag and replaced the non-impluse mag with one of Jeff
Rose's EI. It has worked great for the last 250 hrs - very pleased with the
results.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Electronic ign & mag combo
>Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 10:18:15 -0500
>
>
>In the prev posts re EGT's I noticed the engine had a mag and a Lightspeed.
>I have been considering making the change, but recall Ed whatshisname in
>Greensboro telling me he had taken his electrnic off and going back to dual
>mags because of problems. I would like to heare current thoughts on this,
>charlie heathco LZU
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glennpaulwilkinson" <gpww(at)alltel.net> |
Hey Guys,
I have an RV-4 and am planning a panel upgrade and am planning to buy a Dynon D-10A
EFIS but I have had a couple of owners tell me of problems with the Dynon
units. What has been your experience with the Dynon units you own? Good service
or problems and what type?
Thanks for the help,
Glenn
654RV @ OKZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cammie Patch" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass cockpit |
I have taken on the task of building a cockpit enclosure for a flight
simulator. See http://www.flyelite.com/hardware.php?product_id=77
This isn't specifically RV related, but I do have an RV7 fuse next to this
project.
I need some advice because I have never actually done any fiberglass work,
but these enclosures sell for $25,000, and I thought I could do a lot of
learning for that much.
I have already built the male mold for it. I just need some advice on how
many layers and what kind of fiberglass to use. Will I be able to create a
smooth finish on the outside? Where's a good place to buy the supplies?
Should I use epoxy or regular resin?
Thanks
Cammie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
I cured my O-320-E2D hiccups by putting the proper carburetor on (new); I probably
created the problem by installing the higher compression pistons without changing
the jetting for 160hp. Hiccups were just like yours; a brief to occasionally
not so brief stumble in cruise - cured instantly and forever with the
carb swap-out. Old carb's float settings were okay and all looked fine on tear-down.
Go figure.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I recently installed a D10A and like it very well. I have noticed that the
Altimeter setting may vary from 20~70' from actual even after warm up. Not
sure if this is normal. And the TAS just went wild on the last two flights
which might be a bad temp probe. They have been good to work with. Enroute I
always look at the Dynon for airspeed and Alt however I always refer to the
old airspeed ind and altimeter on landing for some reason. I have actually
covered up the old gauges with sticky notes in an effort to re-train me. I
recommend it.
John Furey
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Cary <cary(at)Fusion.gat.com> |
| Subject: | Hanger or Garage |
I have been building in my garage (just starting wings) and been
presented with an opportunity to share a hanger. I know that finding
a hanger anyplace but especially in the SoCal area can be very
difficult so I hate to pass this by.
Here are my questions: Based on your experiences and or first hand
knowledge, where does one get the most work done, home or at the
field. Second question: Do the benefits from building at the field
out weigh the hassles? Any other comments will be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks in advance everyone.
Bill RV-9A wings
Ramona, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanger or Garage |
You won't get much work done in either place. At home you'll be interrupted by
family. At the airport you'll be interrupted by airport bums. I'd go for the
hangar. At least airport bums like to talk about airplanes. ;-)
Plus the airplane noise is a great incentive.
Bill Cary wrote:
I have been building in my garage (just starting wings) and been
presented with an opportunity to share a hanger. I know that finding
a hanger anyplace but especially in the SoCal area can be very
difficult so I hate to pass this by.
Here are my questions: Based on your experiences and or first hand
knowledge, where does one get the most work done, home or at the
field. Second question: Do the benefits from building at the field
out weigh the hassles? Any other comments will be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks in advance everyone.
Bill RV-9A wings
Ramona, CA
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hanger or Garage |
NO, no, no, waaaay to many distractions at the airport. Are you trying to
tell me every time Chuck Hall or one of the other war bird drivers comes
screaming by your not going to stop and watch? I built my slow build at
home in 2 years to the month with paint. I could have never done that at
the airport.
>
>You won't get much work done in either place. At home you'll be
>interrupted by family. At the airport you'll be interrupted by airport
>bums. I'd go for the hangar. At least airport bums like to talk about
>airplanes. ;-)
>
>Plus the airplane noise is a great incentive.
>
>Bill Cary wrote:
>
>I have been building in my garage (just starting wings) and been
>presented with an opportunity to share a hanger. I know that finding
>a hanger anyplace but especially in the SoCal area can be very
>difficult so I hate to pass this by.
>
>Here are my questions: Based on your experiences and or first hand
>knowledge, where does one get the most work done, home or at the
>field. Second question: Do the benefits from building at the field
>out weigh the hassles? Any other comments will be greatly
>appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance everyone.
>
>Bill RV-9A wings
>Ramona, CA
>
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hanger or Garage |
I can tell you WITHOUT hesitation that building at home was the ONLY way I
could have done it. By building my RV9A at home, I did not have to leave the
family to go to the airport. I could work on it after work, after dinner.
My wife and kids could still talk to me, I could have dinner, say
good-night to the kids etc. When I finally moved the finished parts to the hangar,
it took FOREVER to get things done. All the guys in the hangar area would
stop to chat and check progreess. It got to a point that I would hide my car
around the corner, keep the door closed and keep the radio quiet just so I
could be left alone to get something done.
Don't get me wrong - I enjoy a good visit and I love to talk airplanes, but
my time off is rare and building time away from home is sacrad. All the
guys at the airport are great - but I am glad that I did most of the
construction at home.
... just one guys experiences....
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - Auburn, WA
27 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)access4less.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
Kim,
One thing to consider is the possibility of a valve sticking. You might try
adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to your fuel, about 4 oz. per 10 Gal.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up?
>
>
> In a message dated 2/27/2005 9:01:03 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> dcarter(at)datarecall.net writes:
>
> Are you operating in range of temperature (65 deg F or lower) and above
50%
> humidity so that you might be getting some carb ice building up and
breaking
> off?
>
>
> Thanks to all who offered input. I guess I should give some additional
> information.
> -Yes, I am using AV gas 100LL. I try to lean it out - especially on
the
> ground.
> -When I checked the plugs they were all moderately lead fouled. It
> hic-up'd even with brand new plugs.
> -The fuel selector is the one that Van included in the kit so I don't
> remember the brand.
> - It has been cold here and high humidity (after all , this IS
Seattle!)
> but it would hic-up even in the summer when the temperatures were in the
mid
> 70's.
>
> The idea of the hic up being burning off carbon sounds good but I would
sure
> like a more definative answer....
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Kim Nicholas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
I agree. (never flown one without one). :-)
Charlie E.
Charles Heathco wrote:
>
>One last question, is the hickup just one very brief miss, say 1/2 to 1
>second (a long time when you hear and feel it :-)), and only on occasion? If
>so, My A&P buddy says not to worry. (I know I know :-) ) Charlie
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up?
>
>
>In a message dated 2/27/2005 9:01:03 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
>dcarter(at)datarecall.net writes:
>
>Are you operating in range of temperature (65 deg F or lower) and above
>50%
>humidity so that you might be getting some carb ice building up and
>breaking
>off?
>
>
>Thanks to all who offered input. I guess I should give some additional
>information.
> -Yes, I am using AV gas 100LL. I try to lean it out - especially on the
>ground.
> -When I checked the plugs they were all moderately lead fouled. It
>hic-up'd even with brand new plugs.
> -The fuel selector is the one that Van included in the kit so I don't
>remember the brand.
> - It has been cold here and high humidity (after all , this IS Seattle!)
>but it would hic-up even in the summer when the temperatures were in the
>mid
>70's.
>
>The idea of the hic up being burning off carbon sounds good but I would
>sure
>like a more definative answer....
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Kim Nicholas
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Paging Stein Bruch |
I tried your sales email address on your website but got no reply Stein:
So...I'll try the public forum, I just saw you here the other night and I
know you're lurking. I got to thinking about your harnesses. I like
working with electrical stuff and would enjoy making my own harnesses
but....I've been working on this airplane for many years now and it is so
close to flying I can taste it. If I had someone make my radio harnesses
while I was working on these last little airframe details and installing the
motor, it would fly that much quicker. So......I have a full UPS AT radio
stack (SL-70 transponder, SL-30 Nav/Com, GX-65 GPS/COM and the SL-15 audio
panel). I also have the Dynon D-10 (no serial I/F) and the Mid Continent
Instruments 3 1/2 inch VOR/ILS indicator. I want to use the Dynon to
provide altitude to the SL-70 and want the GX-65 to be able to talk to the
SL-30 (RS-232 serial bus I think). I think that the SL-15 has intercom
built in and it's stereo so I'd want stereo headset capability in that
harness, plus, I'd like to be able to plug in a portable cassette, CD or MP3
player into the audio system AND, be able to record ATC transmissions out of
the audio system (a couple extra jacks for input and output that I could
install in the glove box or under the panel). And, last but not least...a
harness to come out of an Ez Pilot wing leveler control head long enough to
reach my Navaid Servo installed in the right wingtip (EZ Pilot connector on
one end and NAVAID servo connector on the other). Can you give me a rough
idea how much harnesses to do all this stuff would cost if I bought them
from you? What would you need from me to make up the harnesses? Mounting
trays, pins, schematics, what?????? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Tarpon Sprgs, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cruise performance test data listed |
I did a spread sheet that plots Jim's prop data.
If anyone wants a copy of the plots, I'll be happy to email it to you.
There seems to be some inconsistent trends*.
(Ref: http://www.lessdrag.com/lycomingpropeller.html )
A few things show up:
- Increasing RPM from 2500 to 2700 slows you down up to 6mph?**
(Prop efficiencies or not, at higher RPM you are making more HP.
Also, the data trend varies by altitude, going down, up and down again
for the same RPM and prop by altitude, ie no trend across altitudes.)
SPEED VS HP CALC
(**191mph * (106/101)
(1/3)= 194, should go 3 mph faster:
At 12,500 feet, 2500rpm=101hp; 2700=106; 191=speed at 2500rpm;
To go from 191 to 185 by increasing RPM 200 is like loosing 10HP.
Considering the engine is making 6 more HP, it is loosing 16hp or
12% prop efficiency? That is not likely at sub-sonic tip speeds.
TIP SPEED CALC
Tip speed at 200mph @ 2700rpm, 72" dia is 897 feet/sec.
Speed of sound 1070 ft/sec (12,500feet) so prop tips=Mach .83.
Anything under 950ft/sec is good or Mach .84 is OK.
There should be no drop off in speed for operation at 2700 which
is shown for the C2YK and MTV-15 metal blade. As a mater of
fact the thinner metal blade props should be more efficient at high
RPM than the thicker wood core props.
** (I understand that the prop may loose efficiency at higher RPM, but
6 mph? First you are making about 6 more HP by turning the engine 200 rpm
faster . The increased engine power overcomes prop efficiency loss. Also
the speed for 2500 to 2700 rpm change is positive at one altitude, negative
at another, than positive again at progressively higher altitudes?)
OTHER DATA:
By keeping the RPM the same and changing altitude you gain and loose
speed for the same prop? (Ref: MTV-12 and MTV-15 composite)
- At 2300/2400 RPM, you gain 6-7mph at 5,000 feet vs 2,500 and,
you lose 1-4 mph at 7,500 feet vs 5,000. In other words, why does
speed go up at 5K but down at 2.5K & 7.5K all things being the same?
I can see it dropping with the MAP, which is not mentioned in data,
but there should be no gain in speed going from 2,500 to 5,000 feet.
Taking 4 props and testing at 5 altitudes and 4 different RPMs, gives
80 data points. Assuming you were usig flight test methods, each data
point requires two or three data points to be taken to account for
wind. So we are looking at 240 data points. Not an easy thing to do.
The data scatter is understandable; That is why Van and others have
concentrated on just one altitude and one RPM to compare props no
doubt. The pseudo-standard, 8,000 feet, WOT, is a good way to make data
easy to compare. This is approx 75% power which is a good number.
Jim's vs Van's Data
The only comparison to draw from Jim's data and Van's test is at
7,500 feet, 2500 rpm between MTV-12(no B) and the Hartzell C2YK.
Jim shows the MT and HC-C2YK have the same speed, 197mph. Van's
data (MTV-12B?) showed the Hartzell was faster at 8,000 feet, 2500rpm,
WOT by 5mph (8mph faster with the new Hartzell2YR-1BF/F7496).
At 2,500 and 5,000 feet, Jim's data shows the Hartzell faster by 3-4mph.
At 10,000 and 12,500 feet the Hartzell 1mph faster or same as the MTV-12.
So between 5,000 and 7,500 feet the Hartzell lost its speed advantage, but
maintains the same speed or better above 7,500. I would expect some kind
of trend that was linear.
Thanks for the info Jim.
Cheers George
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: cruise performance test data listed
>
>Hi All,
>
>Has anyone else that is flying with a CS propeller noticed that at a
> fixed altitude with full throttle the airspeed is almost constant even
> though the RPM is changed from 2700 RPM to 2200 RPM? The
> only significant change is the fuel flow.
>
> I just finished updating the performance information on my
> _www.lessdrag.com_(http://www.lessdrag.com) website on the
> "Lycoming 360 Propeller" page.
>
> For the Hartzell 2 blade propeller, the full throttle airspeed was 205
> mph tias at 2,500' at 2500 RPM and up. The full throttle airspeeds are
> not listed for 2400 and 2300 RPM, but they were 202 at 2400 RPM and
> 199 at 2300 RPM.
>
Jim - questions/comments:
I looked at my O-360A power spreadsheet, and it looks like the power
at 2300 rpm would be about 91% of the power at 2700 rpm. So,
assuming prop efficiency is constant, you would expect the speed at
2300 rpm to be about 97% of the speed at 2700 rpm. Your data,
averaged over all conditions from 5,000 ft to 12,500 feet for each
prop shows:
prop speed at 2300 rpm as percentage of speed at 2700 rpm
Hartzell 2 blade - 99.0%
MT 3 blade - 98.5%
MT 2 blade - 96.9%
MT Alum 2 blade - 100.4%
Average - 98.7%
But, the expected speed variation with the cube root of power assumes
that the prop efficiency remains constant. I have seen several
comments from people who race with our Hartzell props that they get
just as much speed at 2600 rpm as they do at 2700 rpm, which seems to
indicate that the prop efficiency may be falling off quite a bit as
the rpm increases. The prop efficiency data I have from Hartzell
does show a gradual decrease in prop efficiency with rpm. I ran the
numbers for 5000 ft, and if we take the decrease in prop efficiency
into account, we would expect the speed at 2300 rpm to be about 99%
of the speed at 2700 rpm, which is bang on your average for the
Hartzell.
Is your data repeatable over several flights? Or, is it possible
that you have "noisy" data?
Your results seem to be based on taking IAS, and converting to TAS.
Have you done any flight testing to calibrate your airspeeds? The
ASI instrument error and static source position error may both vary a
bit with speed.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cruise performance test data listed |
I would be hesitant to draw any conclusions from comparing two test
points of Jim's data. The data appears to be "noisy", possibly due
to the standing waves that Jim mentioned. I'm convinced that the
exact results of any given test point could vary by several mph if
the test were done again. So, look at the broad trends, averaged
over the whole data pool. Don't focus on comparisons between any
particular test points.
Data is only useful if it is repeatable. That implies doing the same
test several times, on several different days to see how much the
results vary. The weather conditions can make quite a big
difference. Sometimes it can be almost impossible to know whether
you are in an area of slow lift or sink, which can make a huge
difference in the speed achieved in level flight. That is why it is
important to repeat the same data point on several different days.
Kevin Horton
>
>I did a spread sheet that plots Jim's prop data.
>
>If anyone wants a copy of the plots, I'll be happy to email it to you.
>There seems to be some inconsistent trends*.
>
>(Ref: http://www.lessdrag.com/lycomingpropeller.html )
>
>A few things show up:
>
>- Increasing RPM from 2500 to 2700 slows you down up to 6mph?**
>(Prop efficiencies or not, at higher RPM you are making more HP.
>Also, the data trend varies by altitude, going down, up and down again
>for the same RPM and prop by altitude, ie no trend across altitudes.)
>
>SPEED VS HP CALC
>(**191mph * (106/101)
>(1/3)= 194, should go 3 mph faster:
>At 12,500 feet, 2500rpm=101hp; 2700=106; 191=speed at 2500rpm;
>To go from 191 to 185 by increasing RPM 200 is like loosing 10HP.
>Considering the engine is making 6 more HP, it is loosing 16hp or
>12% prop efficiency? That is not likely at sub-sonic tip speeds.
>
>TIP SPEED CALC
>Tip speed at 200mph @ 2700rpm, 72" dia is 897 feet/sec.
>Speed of sound 1070 ft/sec (12,500feet) so prop tips=Mach .83.
>Anything under 950ft/sec is good or Mach .84 is OK.
>
>There should be no drop off in speed for operation at 2700 which
>is shown for the C2YK and MTV-15 metal blade. As a mater of
>fact the thinner metal blade props should be more efficient at high
>RPM than the thicker wood core props.
>
>** (I understand that the prop may loose efficiency at higher RPM, but
>6 mph? First you are making about 6 more HP by turning the engine 200 rpm
>faster . The increased engine power overcomes prop efficiency loss. Also
>the speed for 2500 to 2700 rpm change is positive at one altitude, negative
>at another, than positive again at progressively higher altitudes?)
>
>
>OTHER DATA:
>By keeping the RPM the same and changing altitude you gain and loose
>speed for the same prop? (Ref: MTV-12 and MTV-15 composite)
>- At 2300/2400 RPM, you gain 6-7mph at 5,000 feet vs 2,500 and,
>you lose 1-4 mph at 7,500 feet vs 5,000. In other words, why does
>speed go up at 5K but down at 2.5K & 7.5K all things being the same?
>
>I can see it dropping with the MAP, which is not mentioned in data,
>but there should be no gain in speed going from 2,500 to 5,000 feet.
>
>
>Taking 4 props and testing at 5 altitudes and 4 different RPMs, gives
> 80 data points. Assuming you were usig flight test methods, each data
>point requires two or three data points to be taken to account for
>wind. So we are looking at 240 data points. Not an easy thing to do.
>The data scatter is understandable; That is why Van and others have
>concentrated on just one altitude and one RPM to compare props no
>doubt. The pseudo-standard, 8,000 feet, WOT, is a good way to make data
>easy to compare. This is approx 75% power which is a good number.
>
>
>Jim's vs Van's Data
>The only comparison to draw from Jim's data and Van's test is at
>7,500 feet, 2500 rpm between MTV-12(no B) and the Hartzell C2YK.
>
>Jim shows the MT and HC-C2YK have the same speed, 197mph. Van's
>data (MTV-12B?) showed the Hartzell was faster at 8,000 feet, 2500rpm,
>WOT by 5mph (8mph faster with the new Hartzell2YR-1BF/F7496).
>At 2,500 and 5,000 feet, Jim's data shows the Hartzell faster by 3-4mph.
>At 10,000 and 12,500 feet the Hartzell 1mph faster or same as the MTV-12.
>So between 5,000 and 7,500 feet the Hartzell lost its speed advantage, but
>maintains the same speed or better above 7,500. I would expect some kind
>of trend that was linear.
>
>Thanks for the info Jim.
>
>Cheers George
>
>
>From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: cruise performance test data listed
>
>
>>
>>Hi All,
>>
>>Has anyone else that is flying with a CS propeller noticed that at a
>> fixed altitude with full throttle the airspeed is almost constant even
>> though the RPM is changed from 2700 RPM to 2200 RPM? The
>> only significant change is the fuel flow.
>>
>> I just finished updating the performance information on my
>> _www.lessdrag.com_(http://www.lessdrag.com) website on the
>> "Lycoming 360 Propeller" page.
>>
>> For the Hartzell 2 blade propeller, the full throttle airspeed was 205
>> mph tias at 2,500' at 2500 RPM and up. The full throttle airspeeds are
>> not listed for 2400 and 2300 RPM, but they were 202 at 2400 RPM and
>> 199 at 2300 RPM.
>>
>
>Jim - questions/comments:
>
>I looked at my O-360A power spreadsheet, and it looks like the power
>at 2300 rpm would be about 91% of the power at 2700 rpm. So,
>assuming prop efficiency is constant, you would expect the speed at
>2300 rpm to be about 97% of the speed at 2700 rpm. Your data,
>averaged over all conditions from 5,000 ft to 12,500 feet for each
>prop shows:
>
>prop speed at 2300 rpm as percentage of speed at 2700 rpm
>Hartzell 2 blade - 99.0%
>MT 3 blade - 98.5%
>MT 2 blade - 96.9%
>MT Alum 2 blade - 100.4%
>Average - 98.7%
>
>But, the expected speed variation with the cube root of power assumes
>that the prop efficiency remains constant. I have seen several
>comments from people who race with our Hartzell props that they get
>just as much speed at 2600 rpm as they do at 2700 rpm, which seems to
>indicate that the prop efficiency may be falling off quite a bit as
>the rpm increases. The prop efficiency data I have from Hartzell
>does show a gradual decrease in prop efficiency with rpm. I ran the
>numbers for 5000 ft, and if we take the decrease in prop efficiency
>into account, we would expect the speed at 2300 rpm to be about 99%
>of the speed at 2700 rpm, which is bang on your average for the
>Hartzell.
>
>Is your data repeatable over several flights? Or, is it possible
>that you have "noisy" data?
>
>Your results seem to be based on taking IAS, and converting to TAS.
>Have you done any flight testing to calibrate your airspeeds? The
>ASI instrument error and static source position error may both vary a
>bit with speed.
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Morley Bullock <bullockm(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-6 fuselage kt?? |
Hi all,
I am new to the list and was wondering if anyone has an older RV-6 fuselage
kit they would like to get rid of. Maybe someone wants to go with a quick
build instead. We have two projects on the go but are short one fuselage.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Morley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
Kim,
not sure your fuel smell question got answered.
Is most probably the upper oring in the vans fuel valve.
These valves come apart easily by taking the upper nut off, make sure your
fuel level is below the valve height though. Then lube the oring and valve
with some fuel lube and it will most likely fix the weep.
I can always tell it needs it when I smell fuel after switching tanks. I've
done this about three times in the last 800 hours.
Its kinda like flap motor cleanings...
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
| Subject: | full take off power |
Scotty,
what makes you think that EGT data came from full take off power settings?
It looked to me like Doug was in a stabilized cruise.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Booze" <macbooze(at)earthlink.net> |
Listers:
For sale .... KX-155 w/o GS (yellow tagged) $1150.00
Contact me off-list.
Greg
RV-8 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | F.I. to FAB Spacer |
Listers,
I=92m looking for someone to machine a spacer to go in between the Bendix
servo and the FAB. I=92m looking for a =BE=94 thick aluminum spacer with a flared
inlet. I=92m not CAD literate but can fax or scan a drawing.
Thanks
Neil McLeod
RV-7, Bisbee, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: panel label engraving with back lighting |
Brian,
Thanks for the post. How are they working out? I guess they must be doing OK
if you recommended Aircraft Engravers.
Wayne Cahoon
Aircraft Engravers
(860) 653-2780
(860) 653-7324 Fax
http://www.engravers.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: panel label engraving with back lighting
>
> Wayne at Aircraft Engravers, www.engravers.net, does a great job on the
> engraving. I had some of his labels with a custom fiber optic back light
> that I made.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Pedersen
> To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: panel label engraving with back lighting
>
>
>
>
> Looking for a supplier that has panel labels that are engravable and then
> a
> light(s) inserted into back of plastic. This little lite would illuminate
> all areas that are engraved.
>
> Thanks
>
> Wayne
> -7a panel
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
I Just got my OH carb in and have taken the gas line conn's off the core, and
am getting ready to put them on the new one. Teflon tape had been used on the
old conn's, I assume that is what I should use on them again? Charlie heathco
LZU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com> |
| Subject: | #4 ELT panel mounting screws |
I am trying to mount my ACK ELT head on the panel and need #4 brass screws.
I have found reference in the archives but get an error message saying it
cant open the '02 archive.
I cant find any #4 brass at ACS, Wag Aero, Wicks - anybody have any other
suggestions ?
Wayne
RV7a - panel
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
Ive been told never to use teflon on fuel or hydraulic lines due to the
fluids will eventually disolve the tape and can cause a blockage in your
line. Im waiting to hear a more definitive answer.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK??
>
> I Just got my OH carb in and have taken the gas line conn's off the core,
> and am getting ready to put them on the new one. Teflon tape had been used
> on the old conn's, I assume that is what I should use on them again?
> Charlie heathco LZU
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
Charles Heathco wrote:
>
>
> I Just got my OH carb in and have taken the gas line conn's off the
> core, and am getting ready to put them on the new one. Teflon tape
> had been used on the old conn's, I assume that is what I should use
> on them again? Charlie heathco LZU
No, no, NO!!!!!!!! Was that emphatic enough? :-)
Use Teflon pipe dope if you wish but *definitely* not tape. Guess what
could happen if a sliver of the tape made its way to a carb jet......
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
Charlie,
Teflon tape is not recomneded on any fuel line connections. A piece of the
tape may tear off and get into the fuel sustem. Use the Teflon paste.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK??
>
> I Just got my OH carb in and have taken the gas line conn's off the core,
and am getting ready to put them on the new one. Teflon tape had been used
on the old conn's, I assume that is what I should use on them again? Charlie
heathco LZU
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: #4 ELT panel mounting screws |
I found some at the hardware store. Good ol' Aircraft Components and
Equipment (they shorten it to ACE.)
Jeff Point
>I cant find any #4 brass at ACS, Wag Aero, Wicks - anybody have any other
>suggestions ?
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
Hi Jeff,
I don't think the concern is so much about Teflon tape dissolving.
The bad guy that can get you is more to do with the risk of wrapping the
Teflon on the threads too close to the first threads so that bits of crushed
Teflon get pushed into the fuel or hydraulic stream and wind up in the
workings of the fuel or hydraulic system.
Also, even if threads are wrapped and installed so that the above risk is
minimised or avoided, the risk of getting crumbled Teflon material into the
system during later servicing raises it's ugly head.
Regardless of what sealant is used the potential of introducing foreign
materials during service or annual assembly disassembly and re-assembly is
something to watch out for.
One bit of said foreign material nesting somewhere in the system can make
for some confusing trouble shooting or spoil your day at the very least!
{[8-!
There may well be other concerns out there but the above examples should be
cause enough for caution and the adoption of good safe practices.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK??
>
>
> Ive been told never to use teflon on fuel or hydraulic lines due to the
> fluids will eventually disolve the tape and can cause a blockage in your
> line. Im waiting to hear a more definitive answer.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 165 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK??
>
>
>>
>> I Just got my OH carb in and have taken the gas line conn's off the
>> core,
>> and am getting ready to put them on the new one. Teflon tape had been
>> used
>> on the old conn's, I assume that is what I should use on them again?
>> Charlie heathco LZU
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re teflon tape no no. |
Ok, I thought I had seen or heard something about it being the wrong thing to do.
I have Teflon pipe dope paste that I use on nat gas and water lines, that will
be good wont it? Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruise performance data |
> One thing that has not been mentioned here is that the MT shines at cruise power
settings.
I am not sure what you mean Scott. I think that is what Jim is trying to imply
but I don't see it. What do you mean by "shines at cruise power".
No offense to all Jim's hard work, but other "cruise power test" show that a MTV-12
is slower by 5-8 mph at cruise altitude and power settings.
As far as the MTV-12-B/183-59d vs -59 blade that Van sells I can't address. May
be Jim can tell us what the difference is.
I respect Jim's opinion but don't share the same enthusiasm for three blade props
on RV's. Two blade props on RV's are 72"-74" dia. The big advantage of going
to 3 blades on some planes is the 2 blade version has very large diameters 80-95".
Going to 3 blades with a smaller diameter makes the prop more quite and
improves prop tip clearance. Don't get me wrong, there are advantages to 3 blades
and composites materials, but speed / cruise efficiency is not one of them.
In general more blades are not more efficient and thicker blades are not more efficient,
both theoretically and in practice. MT blades need to be made thicker
than metal blades because of the wood core. That is OK but not as efficient
as thinner blades. However, wood core has lots of advantages, like not having
mid range engine RPM limits and reported smoother operation by some pilots.
Again if anyone wants a copy of Jim's data plotted out, you can see some "scatter."
I respect Jim's effort, and it is very hard to get good data in one session
for one data point, much less 80 data points, each requiring at least 2 or
3 measurements. Unless the -59b is radically different I think the difference
in speed between the traditional Hartzell is going to be at least 5 mph or more
across the board. Three different sources have found the MTV12 to be slower
than the Hartzell. The difference is even greater, about 8 mph, with the new Blended
Airfoil Hartzell. Other issue of cost and smoothness is an individual choice.
I am happy with the feel of my metal prop, performance and lower cost.
Flame Retardant: I think MT props are the greatest, just not for me. As one writer
posted " I would Lothe putting a Hartzell on my plane." So I know people have
strong opinions using words like lothe (hatred, abhorrence; disgust). Myself,
I would not mind a MT prop but like the Hartzell overall and have good experience
with it.
Fire Extinguisher: As far picking on Jim, I am not. However I need to have more
information when I read data on how, when, where flight test data is taken and
used in results. To get good flight conditions on one day is not easy. Jim no
doubt took several days to test 4 different props over many weeks/months(?),
presumably on one plane. The difference in conditions can affect the data. Method
of determining TAS is ripe with potential errors, GPS or no GPS. GPS can
have update errors itself, although small, it is there. Last I applaud Jim's effort,
but must be taken in context of several other prop "fly-offs". I am not
debating what is the best prop, there is no answer to that IMHO, but only questioning
the accurate collection data and flight test methods in general and the
data Jim has developed in particular.
Cheers George
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: #4 ELT panel mounting screws |
Why would you want brass screws? Use regular steel screws or stainless,
they won't affect your compass. Almost every instrument and radio in
your panel has ferrous metal in it. The screws that hold them in are
not going to bother anything unless they are VERY close to the compass.
Dave
Wayne Pedersen wrote:
>
>I am trying to mount my ACK ELT head on the panel and need #4 brass screws.
>I have found reference in the archives but get an error message saying it
>cant open the '02 archive.
>I cant find any #4 brass at ACS, Wag Aero, Wicks - anybody have any other
>suggestions ?
>
>Wayne
>RV7a - panel
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Fuel Valve |
If you have any seepage from the tanks, it will migrate into the cockpit
also. I've had it twice so far. Goes away when you get some air moving.
Dave
Wheeler North wrote:
>
>Kim,
>
>not sure your fuel smell question got answered.
>
>Is most probably the upper oring in the vans fuel valve.
>
>These valves come apart easily by taking the upper nut off, make sure your
>fuel level is below the valve height though. Then lube the oring and valve
>with some fuel lube and it will most likely fix the weep.
>
>I can always tell it needs it when I smell fuel after switching tanks. I've
>done this about three times in the last 800 hours.
>
>Its kinda like flap motor cleanings...
>
>W
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
The threads going into your new clean carb are free of tape. You can use
the old screw in fittings as one can see to completely clean the male
threads. It is the female threads that hide the problem old tape particles
so you should be in good shape.
Just don't use the Tape again.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK??
>
> I Just got my OH carb in and have taken the gas line conn's off the core,
> and am getting ready to put them on the new one. Teflon tape had been used
> on the old conn's, I assume that is what I should use on them again?
> Charlie heathco LZU
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: #4 ELT panel mounting screws |
Hardware store
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com>
Subject: RV-List: #4 ELT panel mounting screws
>
>
> I am trying to mount my ACK ELT head on the panel and need #4 brass
> screws.
> I have found reference in the archives but get an error message saying it
> cant open the '02 archive.
> I cant find any #4 brass at ACS, Wag Aero, Wicks - anybody have any other
> suggestions ?
>
> Wayne
> RV7a - panel
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
If Teflon tape would disolve in gas, oil or 5606, everything would be o.k.
It doesn't and there in lies the problem. I wrote a rather lengthy article
in the February 2005 of Sport Pilot. And here is the text...
To Tape or Not to Tape; That is the question!
What do you do as a Technical Counselor when you find the builder has used
Teflonr tape on his pipe fittings? Think about this question after you read
the entire article.
I routinely discourage the Teflon tape. Don't get me wrong. Teflon tape is a
great product for water pipe and air compressor fittings. It makes the
tightening and sealing of pipe fittings easy as it reduces the necessary
torque to make the seal. The tape is unaffected by most chemicals and will
not dissolve in water, gasoline or fuel oil. The application is clean as it
doesn't run, drip, or transfer to your hands or clothing.
So what's not to like? The fact that it doesn't dissolve is the real
problem. Any particle of tape that gets into the system can and will plug
small openings. If the tape is applied correctly so that the first thread is
not covered, then a piece of tape will not shear off and get into the system
THIS time. Many people have done this without a problem.
BUT if the fitting using the tape is ever removed and re-installed, the tape
shards from the first use are in the fitting threads. It is easy to clean
the male fitting as you can see when you have it all removed. It is almost
impossible to remove the tape remains from the female internal threads. Any
pieces that are missed get forced into your system when the fitting
re-assembled. They will be circulated through the system whether it is fuel,
oil, air or vacuum until these pieces get to a small opening, like a carb
jet. It will plug it up. The engine will stop, or not get proper
lubrication.
I understand that a small piece of tape will cause the malfunction and
destruction of a vacuum pump. Every replacement pump comes with a warning
that the warrantee is void if you use Teflon tape or any other sealer.
Upon checking with several FAA certified mechanics, their recommendation is
that ALL fittings are asembled dry to avoid any possible system
contamination. If it leaks, then get a different fitting.
Now back to the first question. You found Teflon tape usage. Now what? If
installed ONCE correctly, it will probably not create a problem. But has the
builder installed it correctly? If you remove to check it, then the cleaning
problem arises and might create a problem when none existed before. Would
it be better to "fix" the problem before the re-install problem happens in
the field? This is the builder's dilemma.
So for now, Just say no to Teflon Tape. It's benefits are not enough to
out-weigh the un-safe conditions it can create.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK??
>
>
> Ive been told never to use teflon on fuel or hydraulic lines due to the
> fluids will eventually disolve the tape and can cause a blockage in your
> line. Im waiting to hear a more definitive answer.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 165 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK??
>
>
>>
>> I Just got my OH carb in and have taken the gas line conn's off the
>> core,
>> and am getting ready to put them on the new one. Teflon tape had been
>> used
>> on the old conn's, I assume that is what I should use on them again?
>> Charlie heathco LZU
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | New Van's RV-12? |
Can this be the next RV?
<http://www.midcountyrc.com/videocorner/AFPD.wmv>
http://www.midcountyrc.com/videocorner/AFPD.wmv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Van's RV-12? |
>
>Can this be the next RV?
>
>http://www.midcountyrc.com/videocorner/AFPD.wmv
Listers,
Now that you've watched this awesome video, realize that this ISN'T a real
video of a real Radio Controlled model airplane!! Yes, that's what I
said. Any of you that have your roots in Radio Controlled airplanes no
doubt watched in amazement wondering just how someone could fly like
that. Well, guess what... This is actually a 3D Graphics simulator for the
PC. Yup, that's right!! I was blown away. I kept wondering how they
could fly a plane like that, especially when they bounced it off the tail
in the one scene where it was in hover flight. The other give away is when
the plane flew/hovered around the pilot/camera. Did you notice that there
wasn't any smoke. In hover, the plane would be running at very high power
setting and would generate a lot of smoke (2-stroke engine), but it wasn't
in that particular maneuver. You'll also notice in that same scene when
the plane is very close to the camera, that the plane has a different, kind
of "fake" look to it compared to the background; another giveaway. Also,
the plane flew around the camera, but you never saw the person with the
Control flying it. Maybe he was wearing a "head-cam", but I doubt it... :-)
All in all, though, this is an amazing simulation! Most people would be
completely fooled. Makes you wonder if the whole war-in-Iraq was really
just a 3D simulation... Hum, so where did all of that money go...?
Here is a link to the company that sells the 3D Model software:
https://sslsites.de/ikarus-modellbau.de/onlineshop/usa/onlineshop/index.html
COOL!
The Spoiler,
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: #4 ELT panel mounting screws |
Why would you want brass screws? Use regular steel screws or stainless,
they won't affect your compass. Almost every instrument and radio in
your panel has ferrous metal in it. The screws that hold them in are
not going to bother anything unless they are VERY close to the compass.
Dave
Wayne Pedersen wrote:
>
>I am trying to mount my ACK ELT head on the panel and need #4 brass screws.
>I have found reference in the archives but get an error message saying it
>cant open the '02 archive.
>I cant find any #4 brass at ACS, Wag Aero, Wicks - anybody have any other
>suggestions ?
>
>Wayne
>RV7a - panel
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: #4 ELT panel mounting screws |
Wayne Pedersen wrote:
>
>I am trying to mount my ACK ELT head on the panel and need #4 brass screws.
>I have found reference in the archives but get an error message saying it
>cant open the '02 archive.
>I cant find any #4 brass at ACS, Wag Aero, Wicks - anybody have any other
>suggestions ?
>
>Wayne
>RV7a - panel
>
>
>
>
Stainless Steel from Lowes
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com |
| Subject: | Re: New Van's RV-12? |
Not long ago, I saw a video of a guy flying a radio control inside a gym that
flew
very close to this! hover ect.. did anyone else see that ? it was truly awesome..
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 1, 2005 10:18 pm
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Van's RV-12?
>
>
> >
> >Can this be the next RV?
> >
> >http://www.midcountyrc.com/videocorner/AFPD.wmv
>
> Listers,
>
> Now that you've watched this awesome video, realize that this
> ISN'T a real
> video of a real Radio Controlled model airplane!! Yes, that's
> what I
> said. Any of you that have your roots in Radio Controlled
> airplanes no
> doubt watched in amazement wondering just how someone could fly
> like
> that. Well, guess what... This is actually a 3D Graphics
> simulator for the
> PC. Yup, that's right!! I was blown away. I kept wondering how
> they
> could fly a plane like that, especially when they bounced it off
> the tail
> in the one scene where it was in hover flight. The other give
> away is when
> the plane flew/hovered around the pilot/camera. Did you notice
> that there
> wasn't any smoke. In hover, the plane would be running at very
> high power
> setting and would generate a lot of smoke (2-stroke engine), but
> it wasn't
> in that particular maneuver. You'll also notice in that same
> scene when
> the plane is very close to the camera, that the plane has a
> different, kind
> of "fake" look to it compared to the background; another giveaway.
> Also,
> the plane flew around the camera, but you never saw the person
> with the
> Control flying it. Maybe he was wearing a "head-cam", but I doubt
> it... :-)
>
> All in all, though, this is an amazing simulation! Most people
> would be
> completely fooled. Makes you wonder if the whole war-in-Iraq was
> really
> just a 3D simulation... Hum, so where did all of that money go...?
>
> Here is a link to the company that sells the 3D Model software:
>
> https://sslsites.de/ikarus-
> modellbau.de/onlineshop/usa/onlineshop/index.html
> COOL!
>
> The Spoiler,
>
> Matt Dralle
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ====================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 196 problem |
Both Bryan Jones and I have a the same problem with our Garmin 196:
we have the GPS connected to onboard power, but the batteries keep going dead after
a short period of time, even though we are not using them on battery power.
I have also found a pilot on the Beechlist who has the same problem.
Is there anyone else on the RV-list experiencing this?
Jeff Bertsch
lonestarsquadron.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | FP vs. CS - Safety Issues |
I have kept off the CS vs. FP debate on purpose because I do not know enough
about it to provide
knowledgeable input. I must say I did learn a great deal from the different
posts. Thank you all.
My understanding is that the issue boils down to mission profile:
- aerobatics, short fields, high rate of climb, rapid decent, engine
usage optimization, flying pleasure (I see it as the difference between a
stick shift and an automatic)=85 militate in favor of CS.
- Weight, CG, investment cost, simplicity, fewer prop restrictions
(not sure on this one) militate in favor of FP
Safety! This is one issue which has been batted around; it concerns CS and
power failure mainly for hydraulic governors. I am not sure I am quite at
ease as to what would happen under different scenarios:
- cruise speed, zero power =96 engine continues to windmill thereby
maintaining the oil pressure up =96 pilot has control of the pitch =96 he can
optimize his rate of decent.
- short final and zero power =96 does the prop go to low pitch hence
acts as a brake thereby forcing he pilot to push on the stick?
- Is there a minimum speed to maintain to ensure windmilling hence
maintain enough oil pressure to control the governor?
- Oil pressure failure at any speed.- what happens then?
- Engine stops (zero RPM =96 valve, con rod=85 failure) =96 what happens?
Although my mission profile dictates a CS prop, if I cannot get a
satisfactory answer to rest my mind as to what happens given these
scenarios, I might feel forced into choosing a FP.
FP vs. CS has been one of our wars however the safety issue remains and
objective appraisal as to the consequences of different scenarios and how to
handle them. Please listers, could you possibly respond only if you have
firm definitive information or experience on the CS engine failure issue?
Mich=E8le =96 RV8
Planning on IO-360 - Superior, Mattituck or Lycoming (no implied preference
at this time).
_____
From: ronlee(at)pcisys.net [mailto:ronlee(at)pcisys.net]
Subject: Re: [lycoming] Re: fixed pitch to CS conversion
Vern, your decision is one that I may make at some point. Certainly if
I had to replace my wood prop the 3 blade would be an option. Supposedly
it offers improved climb performance over a FP but probably less than
a CS. Getting CS capable engine is wise. You have the option of going
CS later or a future owner would as well. Guess I should look into
the 3 blade and se if there are any documented data showing an improvement
from two blade FP.
Ron Lee
> Back on topic: I'm going with a FP Catto 3-blade in front of my 180hp
> Mattituck IO-360, and the reason I'm doing that is because I
> personally don't feel that the difference (at this point in time) of
> about $5k between it and the CS Hartzell is worth it to me.
> I'll cruise just as fast with the FP, and even though climb will not
> be as good, it will still be better than any single engine GA
> aircraft. To me, that's just good value for my mission, and my
> mission may be entirely different from yours.
> At the same time, I am happily going to pay the additional $600
> difference to get the hollow crank so that if I ever want to go CS, I
> at least won't have to change out the engine.
>
> Vern
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
I may be seeing this also. The batteries that are only meant to be
used as back
up went dead after only 3 months. I attributed it to the cold weather and the
30 second count-down after main power is removed, but maybe it's something
else.....
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Quoting Jeff Bertsch :
>
> Both Bryan Jones and I have a the same problem with our Garmin 196:
>
> we have the GPS connected to onboard power, but the batteries keep
> going dead after a short period of time, even though we are not using
> them on battery power. I have also found a pilot on the Beechlist
> who has the same problem.
>
> Is there anyone else on the RV-list experiencing this?
>
> Jeff Bertsch
> lonestarsquadron.com
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | When to put it on the gear |
Hi,
When is the best time to put the aircraft on the gear,
before or after installing the engine? I can see advantages
to both, like the aircraft is lower when gear is off, but putting
it on the gear after the engine is installed will be more work.
Thanks for any hints or words of wisdom.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
I had a 196 up untill got 296, never ran the battys down using cig lighter
pwere, I also used it in sim mode with adapter. ITs a strange one, i thought
maybe you were lossing conn, but I recall that the pwr cord sometimes fell
out and it would turn off so seems that would eliminate that posibility.
Problem I had with both is that within 7 miles of LZU radar it would loose
signal, traced that toEscort II radio interference ( only happened with LZU
radar) Charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Bertsch" <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 196 problem
Both Bryan Jones and I have a the same problem with our Garmin 196:
we have the GPS connected to onboard power, but the batteries keep going
dead after a short period of time, even though we are not using them on
battery power. I have also found a pilot on the Beechlist who has the same
problem.
Is there anyone else on the RV-list experiencing this?
Jeff Bertsch
lonestarsquadron.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
Thats funny, I have run mine many hours on ship power without battery
problems. Are you sure it is getting power? One of the data fields can
be set to read voltage...does it go up to 14 or so when you are running
the engine?
John
Jeff Bertsch wrote:
>
>Both Bryan Jones and I have a the same problem with our Garmin 196:
>
>we have the GPS connected to onboard power, but the batteries keep going dead
after a short period of time, even though we are not using them on battery power.
I have also found a pilot on the Beechlist who has the same problem.
>
>Is there anyone else on the RV-list experiencing this?
>
>Jeff Bertsch
>lonestarsquadron.com
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
Jeff,
One way to get to the cause of this problem is to measure the battery
current. Take a piece of insulator (tape, cardboard, double sided circuit board,
etc.) and insulate one battery from the connector -- say at the positive end
of the series string, and bring out 2 wires. Or, bring out 2 wires and
connect the batteries externally through the meter. Put a multimeter in series
and
monitor the current drain. Is there a steady drain? 50 to 100 microamps
would run the batteries down in a few months. (Be careful not to turn the unit
on while on a sensitive range, of course.) If not, is there significant
drain during normal operation?
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying)
In a message dated 3/2/05 7:38:12 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
I may be seeing this also. The batteries that are only meant to be
used as back
up went dead after only 3 months. I attributed it to the cold weather and
the
30 second count-down after main power is removed, but maybe it's something
else.....
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Quoting Jeff Bertsch :
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch
>
> Both Bryan Jones and I have a the same problem with our Garmin 196:
>
> we have the GPS connected to onboard power, but the batteries keep
> going dead after a short period of time, even though we are not using
> them on battery power. I have also found a pilot on the Beechlist
> who has the same problem.
>
> Is there anyone else on the RV-list experiencing this?
>
> Jeff Bertsch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
If you think that staying back 2 threads with the tape will keep it from
getting into the system, you're wrong. After learning the perils of teflon tape
the hard way, I set up this experiment. I put a pipe T in a vise so that I
could see the male coming in from inside. When I tightened the male into the
T, I saw a sliver of the teflon come shooting past the end of the male from
inside the pipe! The tape was back 2 whole turns, and it still made its way
past the end of the threads as they were tightened. Made a believer out of
me!
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying)
In a message dated 3/1/05 8:44:28 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
The threads going into your new clean carb are free of tape. You can use
the old screw in fittings as one can see to completely clean the male
threads. It is the female threads that hide the problem old tape particles
so you should be in good shape.
Just don't use the Tape again.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Figgins" <2004nospam(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | New Van's RV-12? |
WoW, as an old RC person that individual can really fly!! Shows what a good
power to weight ratio can do.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Hansen
Subject: RV-List: New Van's RV-12?
Can this be the next RV?
<http://www.midcountyrc.com/videocorner/AFPD.wmv>
http://www.midcountyrc.com/videocorner/AFPD.wmv
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Compass Calibration |
I have a vertical card compass mounted in my instrument panel that has an error
that I have not been able to calibrate out:
At North, It indicates 15 degrees
At South, it indicates 165 degrees
At east and west it is dead on.
If I adjust the error out at north - make it read 0, then it reads 150 when pointed
south or vise versa - if I calibrate the error out at south - make it read
180, then it reads 30 degrees when pointed north.
I understand that a small magnet(s) can be mounted near the compass to help take
these errors out. I have tried this I am not having much luck in removing these
errors.
Any one have any experience in correcting these errors?
THANKS
Ronnie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <paul(at)kitlog.com> |
| Subject: | When to put it on the gear |
Put the gear on first, imho. The engine will be at the right level to work
on. Plus, you won't have to jack the plane up with the engine on when you
want to put the gear legs on.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RV-List: When to put it on the gear
Hi,
When is the best time to put the aircraft on the gear,
before or after installing the engine? I can see advantages
to both, like the aircraft is lower when gear is off, but putting
it on the gear after the engine is installed will be more work.
Thanks for any hints or words of wisdom.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cruise performance test data listed |
Hi All,
Basic assumption on propeller design.
A propeller blade is designed for a single point of maximum propeller
efficiency.
A single point for design efficiency would be at particular altitude,
airspeed with a specific horsepower available.
Any deviation from that design point will cause a reduction in propeller
efficiency.
Additional comments.
The propeller provides thrust for the aircraft.
The engine turns the propeller.
The engine does not provide thrust for the aircraft.
Two different independent equations that would need to be solved
simultaneously for a given data point involving the engine and propeller interaction.
Or flight test data could be obtained to establish this empirically.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <paul(at)kitlog.com> |
| Subject: | Compass Calibration |
Do you have the US or the Chinese model? I had problems like this with the
Chinese model. Sent it back and got the US model and all problems were
fixed. Also be sure you use a brass screwdriver when adjusting.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
Subject: RV-List: Compass Calibration
I have a vertical card compass mounted in my instrument panel that has an
error that I have not been able to calibrate out:
At North, It indicates 15 degrees
At South, it indicates 165 degrees
At east and west it is dead on.
If I adjust the error out at north - make it read 0, then it reads 150 when
pointed south or vise versa - if I calibrate the error out at south - make
it read 180, then it reads 30 degrees when pointed north.
I understand that a small magnet(s) can be mounted near the compass to help
take these errors out. I have tried this I am not having much luck in
removing these errors.
Any one have any experience in correcting these errors?
THANKS
Ronnie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Compass Calibration |
Hi Ron,
This is one of the caveats that people really need to consider when panel
mounting a compass. A large percentage of them suffer from un-resolveable
errors when the avionics are turned on. Simple EMF makes it difficult to
get a panel mounted compass to be calibtrated correctly. That being said,
they seem to work in some installations in some planes so I'm not totally
against it. But, the majority of what I see for panel mounted compasses in
a panel with any sort of avionics present usually results in a compass that
never works quite right until everything is turned off!
Just my 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
Subject: RV-List: Compass Calibration
I have a vertical card compass mounted in my instrument panel that has an
error that I have not been able to calibrate out:
At North, It indicates 15 degrees
At South, it indicates 165 degrees
At east and west it is dead on.
If I adjust the error out at north - make it read 0, then it reads 150 when
pointed south or vise versa - if I calibrate the error out at south - make
it read 180, then it reads 30 degrees when pointed north.
I understand that a small magnet(s) can be mounted near the compass to help
take these errors out. I have tried this I am not having much luck in
removing these errors.
Any one have any experience in correcting these errors?
THANKS
Ronnie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: When to put it on the gear |
Received-SPF: none
If it -8 and not an 8A, and you don't have the wings on, it will be very
nose heavy with the engine on and you will need to keep weight on the tail.
It is also much easier to work on without the gear because it is lower. But
it will be harder to install the gear after the engine is on.
Jim
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: When to put it on the gear
>
> Hi,
>
> When is the best time to put the aircraft on the gear,
> before or after installing the engine? I can see advantages
> to both, like the aircraft is lower when gear is off, but putting
> it on the gear after the engine is installed will be more work.
>
> Thanks for any hints or words of wisdom.
>
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Compass Calibration |
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
OK Guys, you have asked a legitimate question, to wit: " who do you
think you are "?
So I'll tell you. I am a guy who has built 2 airplanes, rebuilt a
classic airplane, maintained several airplanes, maintained a
Certificated Repair Station for over 20 years.
But most importantly, I have lost more than a dozen very good friends
from
Them making bad decisions with Experimental Category Airplanes.
I think that more than qualifies me to make the statement I made.
Monty Barrett
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Compass Calibration
Hi Ron,
This is one of the caveats that people really need to consider when
panel
mounting a compass. A large percentage of them suffer from
un-resolveable
errors when the avionics are turned on. Simple EMF makes it difficult
to
get a panel mounted compass to be calibtrated correctly. That being
said,
they seem to work in some installations in some planes so I'm not
totally
against it. But, the majority of what I see for panel mounted compasses
in
a panel with any sort of avionics present usually results in a compass
that
never works quite right until everything is turned off!
Just my 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
Subject: RV-List: Compass Calibration
I have a vertical card compass mounted in my instrument panel that has
an
error that I have not been able to calibrate out:
At North, It indicates 15 degrees
At South, it indicates 165 degrees
At east and west it is dead on.
If I adjust the error out at north - make it read 0, then it reads 150
when
pointed south or vise versa - if I calibrate the error out at south -
make
it read 180, then it reads 30 degrees when pointed north.
I understand that a small magnet(s) can be mounted near the compass to
help
take these errors out. I have tried this I am not having much luck in
removing these errors.
Any one have any experience in correcting these errors?
THANKS
Ronnie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruise performance data |
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>In general more blades are not more efficient and thicker blades are not more
efficient, both theoretically and in practice. MT blades need to be made thicker
than metal blades because of the wood core. That is OK but not as efficient
as thinner blades. However, wood core has lots of advantages, like not having
mid range engine RPM limits and reported smoother operation by some pilots.
>
>
I can't speak to the specifics about any particular 2 vs 3 blade prop,
but I read some NASA research that gave relative efficiencies for
various numbers of blades. I know that had 2, 3 and 4 blade props in
their data and maybe more. As you pointed out, more blades are less
efficient, however the difference in efficiency between a 2 and a 3
bladed prop is very small. I don't remember the exact numbers, but I do
remember calculating that at 200 mph, the difference would be no more
than 1 mph.
--
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: When to put it on the gear |
It is true the tail will have to be held down until the wings are on.
You can use this to your advantage by tieing the tail down to something
heavy. Tie it so the tail is about 6 feet in the air, and then the
engine will be just the right height to work on. And, you can still roll
it around when it gets in the way.
John
Jim Cimino wrote:
>
>If it -8 and not an 8A, and you don't have the wings on, it will be very
>nose heavy with the engine on and you will need to keep weight on the tail.
>It is also much easier to work on without the gear because it is lower. But
>it will be harder to install the gear after the engine is on.
>Jim
>
>Jim Cimino
>RV-8 SN 80039
>150+ Hours
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: When to put it on the gear
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Hi,
>>
>>When is the best time to put the aircraft on the gear,
>>before or after installing the engine? I can see advantages
>>to both, like the aircraft is lower when gear is off, but putting
>>it on the gear after the engine is installed will be more work.
>>
>>Thanks for any hints or words of wisdom.
>>
>>Mickey
>>
>>--
>>Mickey Coggins
>>http://www.rv8.ch/
>>#82007 Wiring
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Van's RV-12? |
For me, the airshow smoke is what gave it away. It just perfectly disappears at
a set distance behind the plane. There should be a haze of smoke around but
no, it just... disappears. The plane also accelerates dramatically when it does
fast rolls. But other than that I agree it was a great simulation.
>
>Can this be the next RV?
>
>http://www.midcountyrc.com/videocorner/AFPD.wmv
Listers,
Now that you've watched this awesome video, realize that this ISN'T a real
video of a real Radio Controlled model airplane!! Yes, that's what I
said. Any of you that have your roots in Radio Controlled airplanes no
doubt watched in amazement wondering just how someone could fly like
that. Well, guess what... This is actually a 3D Graphics simulator for the
PC. Yup, that's right!! I was blown away. I kept wondering how they
could fly a plane like that, especially when they bounced it off the tail
in the one scene where it was in hover flight. The other give away is when
the plane flew/hovered around the pilot/camera. Did you notice that there
wasn't any smoke. In hover, the plane would be running at very high power
setting and would generate a lot of smoke (2-stroke engine), but it wasn't
in that particular maneuver. You'll also notice in that same scene when
the plane is very close to the camera, that the plane has a different, kind
of "fake" look to it compared to the background; another giveaway. Also,
the plane flew around the camera, but you never saw the person with the
Control flying it. Maybe he was wearing a "head-cam", but I doubt it... :-)
All in all, though, this is an amazing simulation! Most people would be
completely fooled. Makes you wonder if the whole war-in-Iraq was really
just a 3D simulation... Hum, so where did all of that money go...?
Here is a link to the company that sells the 3D Model software:
https://sslsites.de/ikarus-modellbau.de/onlineshop/usa/onlineshop/index.html
COOL!
The Spoiler,
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Compass Calibration |
Ron, don't know if this is an answer but ACS has a foil wrap called
MU(metal) It says "use this to shield the Precision PAI700 from magnetic
interference in the instrument panel". Part # 11-00973. Might be voodoo,
but it's only $15. Be interesting to know if anyone has tried it.
Good luck
Bill S
7a Ark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
Subject: RV-List: Compass Calibration
I have a vertical card compass mounted in my instrument panel that has an
error that I have not been able to calibrate out:
At North, It indicates 15 degrees
At South, it indicates 165 degrees
At east and west it is dead on.
If I adjust the error out at north - make it read 0, then it reads 150 when
pointed south or vise versa - if I calibrate the error out at south - make
it read 180, then it reads 30 degrees when pointed north.
I understand that a small magnet(s) can be mounted near the compass to help
take these errors out. I have tried this I am not having much luck in
removing these errors.
Any one have any experience in correcting these errors?
THANKS
Ronnie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | A curious mix of metal and plastic |
A curious mix of metal and plastic......
http://www.vultureformation.com/video/deltademo.wmv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
>
> If Teflon tape would disolve in gas, oil or 5606, everything would be
> o.k.
> It doesn't and there in lies the problem. I wrote a rather lengthy
> article
> in the February 2005 of Sport Pilot. And here is the text...
>
> To Tape or Not to Tape; That is the question!
>
>
<-- a bunch of good stuff removed by Kevin Horton -->
> BUT if the fitting using the tape is ever removed and re-installed,
> the tape
> shards from the first use are in the fitting threads. It is easy to
> clean
> the male fitting as you can see when you have it all removed. It is
> almost
> impossible to remove the tape remains from the female internal
> threads. Any
> pieces that are missed get forced into your system when the fitting
> re-assembled. They will be circulated through the system whether it is
> fuel,
> oil, air or vacuum until these pieces get to a small opening, like a
> carb
> jet. It will plug it up. The engine will stop, or not get proper
> lubrication.
>
<-- a bunch more good stuff removed -->
I have one question for the experts - what happens if we use some other
Isn't there a risk of pieces of the solidified sealant residue in the
female fitting getting pushed into the system when the male one is
safer than a piece of Teflon tape?
What am I missing?
I'm not suggesting that Teflon tape is OK, I'm just trying to learn why
some other products are not just as risky.
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
RV-8 - Finishing Kit
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FP vs. CS - Safety Issues |
>
>Safety! This is one issue which has been batted around; it concerns CS and
>power failure mainly for hydraulic governors. I am not sure I am quite at
>ease as to what would happen under different scenarios:
>
>- cruise speed, zero power =96 engine continues to windmill thereby
>maintaining the oil pressure up =96 pilot has control of the pitch =96 he can
>optimize his rate of decent.
>
>- short final and zero power =96 does the prop go to low pitch hence
>acts as a brake thereby forcing he pilot to push on the stick?
>
>
>
If the prop is windmilling, you'll still have oil pressure and control
of the prop and pulling it back will increase glide distance.
>- Is there a minimum speed to maintain to ensure windmilling hence
>maintain enough oil pressure to control the governor?
>
>
>
A Hartzel is heavy enough that you'd probably have be very close to
stall to stop it, so this shouldn't be a factor.
>- Oil pressure failure at any speed.- what happens then?
>
>
>
The engine stops turning.
>- Engine stops (zero RPM =96 valve, con rod=85 failure) =96 what happens?
>
>
>
>
Same as above. Also, a stopped prop has a lot less drag than a
windmilling prop and I don't think that you'd see any difference between
fixed pitch and CS.
The constant speed prop gives you more options with or without the
engine running and, in my opinion, makes it the safer of the two.
Dave So Cal -6 180 CS
EAA Tech Counselor
>Although my mission profile dictates a CS prop, if I cannot get a
>satisfactory answer to rest my mind as to what happens given these
>scenarios, I might feel forced into choosing a FP.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles For Sale |
I have high quality "Van's Aircraft - Total Performance" belt buckles for sale.
Please check them out at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
Thank you, Glenn Brasch, Tucson RV-9A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
I believe the rest of the article recommended not using any sealant. That is
the jest of what I wrote.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK??
>
>
>>
>> If Teflon tape would disolve in gas, oil or 5606, everything would be
>> o.k.
>> It doesn't and there in lies the problem. I wrote a rather lengthy
>> article
>> in the February 2005 of Sport Pilot. And here is the text...
>>
>> To Tape or Not to Tape; That is the question!
>>
>>
> <-- a bunch of good stuff removed by Kevin Horton -->
>
>> BUT if the fitting using the tape is ever removed and re-installed,
>> the tape
>> shards from the first use are in the fitting threads. It is easy to
>> clean
>> the male fitting as you can see when you have it all removed. It is
>> almost
>> impossible to remove the tape remains from the female internal
>> threads. Any
>> pieces that are missed get forced into your system when the fitting
>> re-assembled. They will be circulated through the system whether it is
>> fuel,
>> oil, air or vacuum until these pieces get to a small opening, like a
>> carb
>> jet. It will plug it up. The engine will stop, or not get proper
>> lubrication.
>>
> <-- a bunch more good stuff removed -->
>
> I have one question for the experts - what happens if we use some other
> Isn't there a risk of pieces of the solidified sealant residue in the
> female fitting getting pushed into the system when the male one is
> safer than a piece of Teflon tape?
>
> What am I missing?
>
> I'm not suggesting that Teflon tape is OK, I'm just trying to learn why
> some other products are not just as risky.
>
> Kevin Horton
> Ottawa, Canada
> RV-8 - Finishing Kit
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | New Van's RV-12? |
I must confess.
At first I thought it was a real airplane - on take off, was impressed by
the roll right after takeoff - my thought was, this guy must be an expert
among experts.
Then it dawned on me that it was an RC - until the finish I thought it was
an RC.
The posts gave away the truth - gullible I fell for it hook and sinker.
Very impressive.
Michle
RV8 - wings
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Vanartsdalen
> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 10:03 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: New Van's RV-12?
>
>
> For me, the airshow smoke is what gave it away. It just perfectly
> disappears at a set distance behind the plane. There should be a haze of
> smoke around but no, it just... disappears. The plane also accelerates
> dramatically when it does fast rolls. But other than that I agree it was
> a great simulation.
>
> Matt Dralle
>
>
> >
> >Can this be the next RV?
> >
> >http://www.midcountyrc.com/videocorner/AFPD.wmv
>
> Listers,
>
> Now that you've watched this awesome video, realize that this ISN'T a real
> video of a real Radio Controlled model airplane!! Yes, that's what I
> said. Any of you that have your roots in Radio Controlled airplanes no
> doubt watched in amazement wondering just how someone could fly like
> that. Well, guess what... This is actually a 3D Graphics simulator for the
> PC. Yup, that's right!! I was blown away. I kept wondering how they
> could fly a plane like that, especially when they bounced it off the tail
> in the one scene where it was in hover flight. The other give away is when
> the plane flew/hovered around the pilot/camera. Did you notice that there
> wasn't any smoke. In hover, the plane would be running at very high power
> setting and would generate a lot of smoke (2-stroke engine), but it wasn't
> in that particular maneuver. You'll also notice in that same scene when
> the plane is very close to the camera, that the plane has a different,
> kind
> of "fake" look to it compared to the background; another giveaway. Also,
> the plane flew around the camera, but you never saw the person with the
> Control flying it. Maybe he was wearing a "head-cam", but I doubt it... :-
> )
>
> All in all, though, this is an amazing simulation! Most people would be
> completely fooled. Makes you wonder if the whole war-in-Iraq was really
> just a 3D simulation... Hum, so where did all of that money go...?
>
> Here is a link to the company that sells the 3D Model software:
>
> https://sslsites.de/ikarus-
> modellbau.de/onlineshop/usa/onlineshop/index.html
>
> COOL!
>
> The Spoiler,
>
> Matt Dralle
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass Calibration |
I evidently didnt get this orig post re who do you think you are??? charlie
heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Compass Calibration
OK Guys, you have asked a legitimate question, to wit: " who do you
think you are "?
So I'll tell you. I am a guy who has built 2 airplanes, rebuilt a
classic airplane, maintained several airplanes, maintained a
Certificated Repair Station for over 20 years.
But most importantly, I have lost more than a dozen very good friends
from
Them making bad decisions with Experimental Category Airplanes.
I think that more than qualifies me to make the statement I made.
Monty Barrett
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Compass Calibration
Hi Ron,
This is one of the caveats that people really need to consider when
panel
mounting a compass. A large percentage of them suffer from
un-resolveable
errors when the avionics are turned on. Simple EMF makes it difficult
to
get a panel mounted compass to be calibtrated correctly. That being
said,
they seem to work in some installations in some planes so I'm not
totally
against it. But, the majority of what I see for panel mounted compasses
in
a panel with any sort of avionics present usually results in a compass
that
never works quite right until everything is turned off!
Just my 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
Subject: RV-List: Compass Calibration
I have a vertical card compass mounted in my instrument panel that has
an
error that I have not been able to calibrate out:
At North, It indicates 15 degrees
At South, it indicates 165 degrees
At east and west it is dead on.
If I adjust the error out at north - make it read 0, then it reads 150
when
pointed south or vise versa - if I calibrate the error out at south -
make
it read 180, then it reads 30 degrees when pointed north.
I understand that a small magnet(s) can be mounted near the compass to
help
take these errors out. I have tried this I am not having much luck in
removing these errors.
Any one have any experience in correcting these errors?
THANKS
Ronnie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | vor/gs/loc antenna |
Guys, I'm building an IFR RV-8 and I need to decide what antenna(s) I'll need and
where to mount them. The Comant CI-215 covers picks up VOR, GS & LOC signals,
but I would prefer mounting an antenna or antennas in the wingtip(s) that
does the same thing.
From the archives it appears that Bob Archer's Vor wingtip antenna works well,
but I found no reference to glide slope does this antenna also pick up these
signals? Or can it be modified to do so? Aslo, when used as a VOR antenna, I
would assume that you would not need such an antenna in each wing?
If I can't go with a triple function wingtip antenna, I guess the next best would
be a belly mount of the CI-215
as some have done. Are those of you who have gone this route pleased with the recption,
esthetics, etc.?
Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying RV-8 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | vor/gs/loc antenna |
Walt,
I have Bob Archer's VOR antenna in two IFR airplanes, RV-6 and -7, both work
really well for VOR and ILS reception. Only one antenna is required for VOR
reception...you will have to add an outer marker antenna of some sort. I
used Bob's copper foil kit for this purpose, also glassed into one of the
wing tips. No need for the external belly antenna...
Pat Hatch
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rveighta
Subject: RV-List: vor/gs/loc antenna
Guys, I'm building an IFR RV-8 and I need to decide what antenna(s) I'll
need and where to mount them. The Comant CI-215 covers picks up VOR, GS &
LOC signals, but I would prefer mounting an antenna or antennas in the
wingtip(s) that does the same thing.
From the archives it appears that Bob Archer's Vor wingtip antenna works
well, but I found no reference to glide slope does this antenna also pick
up these signals? Or can it be modified to do so? Aslo, when used as a VOR
antenna, I would assume that you would not need such an antenna in each
wing?
If I can't go with a triple function wingtip antenna, I guess the next best
would be a belly mount of the CI-215
as some have done. Are those of you who have gone this route pleased with
the recption, esthetics, etc.?
Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying RV-8 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vor/gs/loc antenna |
The esthetics no doubt would be better with the wing tip ant (which
should also work for Loc/GS). But, I've been lead to believe
reception will be better with the belly mount?!
Regards,
Bob
wrote:
>
> Guys, I'm building an IFR RV-8 and I need to decide what antenna(s) I'll need
and where to mount them. The Comant CI-215 covers picks up VOR, GS & LOC signals,
but I would prefer mounting an antenna or antennas in the wingtip(s) that
does the same thing.
>
> From the archives it appears that Bob Archer's Vor wingtip antenna works well,
but I found no reference to glide slope does this antenna also pick up these
signals? Or can it be modified to do so? Aslo, when used as a VOR antenna,
I would assume that you would not need such an antenna in each wing?
>
> If I can't go with a triple function wingtip antenna, I guess the next best would
be a belly mount of the CI-215
> as some have done. Are those of you who have gone this route pleased with the
recption, esthetics, etc.?
>
> Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying RV-8 Finishing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cruise performance data |
Hi All,
Chris and George seem to be discussing maximum theoretical propeller
efficiency.
Theoretical propeller efficiency:
91.5% for a 2 blade propeller
90.7% for a 3 blade propeller.
Empirical data (actual measurements) shows real 2 blade propellers have
around 87% to 88% propeller efficiency.
What does this really mean?
For a 2 blade propeller at 87% efficiency on an aircraft able to fly at 200
mph.
The theoretical 2 blade propeller at 91.5% efficiency would allow the
aircraft to fly at 205 mph. (How about some of you data types checking this
information?)
For a 200 mph aircraft, that's about 1 mph for every 1% change in
efficiency. Which is what Chris said for the difference in theoretical propeller
efficiency between a 2 blade propeller and a 3 blade propeller.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 03/03/2005 3:56:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
I can't speak to the specifics about any particular 2 vs 3 blade prop,
but I read some NASA research that gave relative efficiencies for
various numbers of blades. I know that had 2, 3 and 4 blade props in
their data and maybe more. As you pointed out, more blades are less
efficient, however the difference in efficiency between a 2 and a 3
bladed prop is very small. I don't remember the exact numbers, but I do
remember calculating that at 200 mph, the difference would be no more
than 1 mph.
--
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FP vs. CS - Safety Issues |
Hi All,
The Rocket pilots found one answer to your safety concerns with a CS
propeller.
The counterweighted blade propeller goes to a coarse pitch with the loss of
oil pressure.
The "standard" CS propeller goes to fine pitch with the loss of oil pressure.
(Sale pitch - Ignore if this offends you.) The MT 3 blade propeller with
counterweighted blades weighs almost as much as the "standard" 2 blade
Hartzell.
Another answer is the electric CS propeller. The propeller blade angle is
independent of oil pressure.
The propeller blades are almost feathered at coarse pitch with the MT
electric CS propeller on my RV-3. (The 3 blade MT propeller on my RV-3 propeller
weighs 39 pounds. Limited to 160 hp max.)
(More sales pitch) Did I mention that MT Propeller custom designs
propellers?
Both fixed pitch and constant speed (CS) propellers?
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 03/03/2005 3:56:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
Subject: RV-List: FP vs. CS - Safety Issues
(Stuff cut)
Safety! This is one issue which has been batted around; it concerns CS and
power failure mainly for hydraulic governors. I am not sure I am quite at
ease as to what would happen under different scenarios:
- cruise speed, zero power =96 engine continues to windmill thereby
maintaining the oil pressure up =96 pilot has control of the pitch =96 he can
optimize his rate of decent.
- short final and zero power =96 does the prop go to low pitch hence
acts as a brake thereby forcing he pilot to push on the stick?
- Is there a minimum speed to maintain to ensure windmilling hence
maintain enough oil pressure to control the governor?
- Oil pressure failure at any speed.- what happens then?
- Engine stops (zero RPM =96 valve, con rod=85 failure) =96 what happens?
Although my mission profile dictates a CS prop, if I cannot get a
satisfactory answer to rest my mind as to what happens given these
scenarios, I might feel forced into choosing a FP.
FP vs. CS has been one of our wars however the safety issue remains and
objective appraisal as to the consequences of different scenarios and how to
handle them. Please listers, could you possibly respond only if you have
firm definitive information or experience on the CS engine failure issue?
Mich=E8le =96 RV8
Planning on IO-360 - Superior, Mattituck or Lycoming (no implied preference
at this time).
(stuff cut)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
If after 7 seconds, some of you guys bought that RC video as the real thing, I'm
sure you can suspend disbelief for this one!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
http://www.compfused.com/directlink/609/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A |
Is it worth upgrading my dynon EFIS-D10 to a
EFIS-D10A?
Thanks
Dale Mitchell
__________________________________
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | vor/gs/loc antenna |
Walt:
Yes Bob Archer's antenna is good for GS, ILS, and VOR. On the SL-30 radio,
there is only one coax connection and the one antenna works great. On the
Garmin radios, you will need a splitter from one antenna to two radio jacks.
The Marker Beakon antenna is separate. My suggestion is a home made one as
Bob recommends.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,636 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: vor/gs/loc antenna
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 08:33:11 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Guys, I'm building an IFR RV-8 and I need to decide what antenna(s) I'll
need and where to mount them. The Comant CI-215 covers picks up VOR, GS &
LOC signals, but I would prefer mounting an antenna or antennas in the
wingtip(s) that does the same thing.
From the archives it appears that Bob Archer's Vor wingtip antenna works
well, but I found no reference to glide slope does this antenna also pick
up these signals? Or can it be modified to do so? Aslo, when used as a VOR
antenna, I would assume that you would not need such an antenna in each
wing?
If I can't go with a triple function wingtip antenna, I guess the next best
would be a belly mount of the CI-215
as some have done. Are those of you who have gone this route pleased with
the recption, esthetics, etc.?
Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying RV-8 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <smileyburnett(at)charter.net> |
>Neato
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Builder Feedback Requested for Kitplanes Magazine (Alternative |
Engines)
Hello everyone,
I've subscribed (quietly) to this list for a little more than a year, and
would like to hear from you if you're a builder who has successfully
installed and flown an alternative engine in your plane. I'm writing a
builder's roundup for Kitplanes magazine, and am looking for an installation
that's flown for a minimum of 150 hours, and is currently flying.
For the builders that we profile, the magazine will also be able to pay you
$100 for the write-up. We would also need at least 2-3 good photos,
including a close-up of the engine and an overall shot of the aircraft.
Additional photos would be great, and all photos will be returned. If you
have digital photos, it is very important that they be high-resolution, at
least 300 dpi.
I have a list of specific areas to address if you'd like to participate, but
we can handle that off-line.
Please feel free to contact me off-line at:
cory @ lightspeededit.com (remove the spaces - my anti-spam protection)
or reply offline to my list email address.
I have a rather short deadline, so if you're able to contact me as soon as
you're able, I would greatly appreciate it!
Thank you so much!
best,
Cory Emberson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vor/gs/loc antenna |
One of Bob's in your wingtip will do it all.
You'll have to put a strip of AL in there on the opposite side of the
wingtip for your marker beacon. Bobs directions cover it. It also works
great as an FM antenna!
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: vor/gs/loc antenna
>
> Guys, I'm building an IFR RV-8 and I need to decide what antenna(s) I'll
> need and where to mount them. The Comant CI-215 covers picks up VOR, GS &
> LOC signals, but I would prefer mounting an antenna or antennas in the
> wingtip(s) that does the same thing.
>
> From the archives it appears that Bob Archer's Vor wingtip antenna works
> well, but I found no reference to glide slope does this antenna also pick
> up these signals? Or can it be modified to do so? Aslo, when used as a
> VOR antenna, I would assume that you would not need such an antenna in
> each wing?
>
> If I can't go with a triple function wingtip antenna, I guess the next
> best would be a belly mount of the CI-215
> as some have done. Are those of you who have gone this route pleased with
> the recption, esthetics, etc.?
>
> Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying RV-8 Finishing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | FP vs. CS - Safety Issues |
Guys,
I'd like to thank you all who responded knowledgeably on the safety aspects
of the CS vs. FP prop. Your responses have cleared some misconceptions on my
part and given me enough to ask the right questions when the time comes to
decide. At this time, I am confident that hydraulic constant speed is best
suited for my mission profile (I hate jargon but this term seems to be
pretty well understood by you all) - it will then be a question as to which
prop on which governor on which engine.
Safety issues will then have to be worked out on the basis of testing given
different scenarios.
Michele Delsol (my first name takes an accent on the first 'e' but the
Matronics list does not seem to like accents).
RV8 - Wings - France
PS - I chose hydraulic over electric CS because I read somewhere that
electric was to slow for aerobatics. (Please do not respond unless one of
you guys feels that I am mistaken.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Using Sika 295 UV for the Canopy |
One Builder, on the RV List, mentioned that if Sika
295UV is to applied on Metal or Plexiglass after the
Primer has dried for 2 hours, the old Primer needs to
be cleaned and another coat of Primer applied. No
other Builders on the RV List have mentioned this.
What is the truth ????? This would be important
especially when the WHOLE Canopy is basically "tacked"
in place with the Sika 295 (using spacers between the
Plexi and Frame), allowed to cure then cut into Slider
and Windscreen - more than 2 hours will have passed.
Does the black exposed Primer need to be cleaned and
then reapplied again before Fillets are applied and
the gaps between the steel canopy frame and the canopy
are filled in. ????
Thanks, Garey RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A |
I asked the Dynon folks that question face to face at Copperstate and
they said they didn't think so. The advances are incremental and not
earthshaking in my opinion.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Mitchell
Subject: RV-List: Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A
Is it worth upgrading my dynon EFIS-D10 to a
EFIS-D10A?
Thanks
Dale Mitchell
__________________________________
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Using Sika 295 UV for the Canopy |
Garey Wittich wrote:
>
> One Builder, on the RV List, mentioned that if Sika
>295UV is to applied on Metal or Plexiglass after the
>Primer has dried for 2 hours, the old Primer needs to
>be cleaned and another coat of Primer applied. No
>other Builders on the RV List have mentioned this.
>What is the truth ????? This would be important
>especially when the WHOLE Canopy is basically "tacked"
>in place with the Sika 295 (using spacers between the
>Plexi and Frame), allowed to cure then cut into Slider
>and Windscreen - more than 2 hours will have passed.
>Does the black exposed Primer need to be cleaned and
>then reapplied again before Fillets are applied and
>the gaps between the steel canopy frame and the canopy
>are filled in. ????
>
>Thanks, Garey RV8A
>
>
>
>
Why not call Sika, I found to be very pleasant to deal with, very
helpfull in application techniques.
As far as I can remember from talking with Sika, you put a bead on as
advertized in SIKA's app.notes (on the web) and fill in the spacer area
later as well as applying a 'look good' bead over the first bead.
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob" <rpgross(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | misc avionics for sale |
Hi all,
I'm building a new panel and upgrading avionic$. Am selling:
Dynon Autopilot and servo system with internal Smart Coupler. cost $1350,
ask 1000. Sorry, I won't split up these parts, they go as a set. 120 hours
since new and you get a free ride in an F1 Rocket to see it work!
All engine instruments from Vans, Oil P, Oil Temp, Manifold Pressure
w/transducer, CHT, Tach w/transducer. Please make reasonable offer.
Aerospace Logic Six channel digital EGT analyzer. 120 hours since new. uses
standard type K probes. Can be configured for 4 or 6 cylinder engines. New
$383, asking $250
http://www.aerospacelogic.com/
All instruments are in mint condition and look new.
For those of you following the F1 progress, the in-flight computer/power
supply and 12.1" LCD display will be for sale soon as well. A new system is
being built to replace it.
Warmest Regards,
Bob Gross
For the latest F1 Rocket/Synthetic Vision progress, click here...
www.F1-RocketBoy.com <http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Morrow" <DanFM01(at)butter.toast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
The Garmin 196 runs the clock even when you power it off. I believe this
helps it get a fast satellite lock on when you power up. My experience is
that it takes several months to run the batteries down. If it runs down
very rapidly, it must be failing to get power from the power cord some how.
Dan Morrow
RV8A Building Empennage slowly
----- Original Message -----
>
> Both Bryan Jones and I have a the same problem with our Garmin 196:
>
> we have the GPS connected to onboard power, but the batteries keep going
dead after a short period of time, even though we are not using them on
battery power. I have also found a pilot on the Beechlist who has the same
problem.
>
> Is there anyone else on the RV-list experiencing this?
>
> Jeff Bertsch
> lonestarsquadron.com
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Levelers & Standing on My Head |
I'm very tempted (make that very, very tempted) to add a wing leveler to my airplane.
Only three things are holding me back:
1) The cost. As with all airplane related expenses, I'm sure I'll get over it.
2) My big concern - installation time. Assuming I go with the under - seat servo
installation in my RV-6, how many hours am I going to have to spend standing
on my head, drilling holes and "making things fit". Aside to pre-punched
RV builders - "Just make it fit" used to be Van's mantra when you called
the tech support line. Given that there are 3,000+ non-prepunched kits flying,
it was good advise.
3) Control feel. I'm told by some that even with the wing leveler turned off, there
is additional drag in the control system. Is this true for all installations?
If so, how noticable is it?
Thanks in advance.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Headset audio wire broken at phone jack |
Thanks for the suggestion Dan,
I called ASA and they said just send it back. It has a life time
warranty.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Headset audio wire broken at phone jack
>
>
> Tom
>
> You don't say what brand the headsets are. I had a similar problem with
my
> Lightspeed 20XLs. I called them, and they sent me new cables including
the
> battery box for free -- for 2 headsets. They were about 3 years old. No
> questions asked. Great company. I'll buy from them again.
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A (Flying)
>
>
> In a message dated 2/24/05 6:45:42 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> skytop(at)megsinet.net writes:
>
> List,
> I must have a broken wire in ear tone side of my headsets. I can wiggle
the
> wire and cause on/off sound. Because the wire is broken within the
molded
> heat shrink from the wire to the phone jack, I don't want to rush in and
cut
> it open to repair it.
> Are there any tricks to opening it up and putting it back together keeping
> the whole thing neat? Or is this one of those types of things everyone
does
> regardless of the mess and just not worry about it? Or third, send it to
the
> factory for repair?
>
> I'd appreciate all comments.
>
> Tom Barnes
> Buffalo Grove, IL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A |
I've pondered the same thing.
I DO WISH that they would make some of the same SIMPLE software changes for
the D10 that they have made for the D10A, like having a Fahrenheit option
and always showing the altimeter on the main screen.....
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 70 Hrs with D10
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I asked the Dynon folks that question face to face at
> Copperstate and they said they didn't think so. The advances
> are incremental and not earthshaking in my opinion.
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> Is it worth upgrading my dynon EFIS-D10 to a EFIS-D10A?
> Thanks
> Dale Mitchell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Levelers & Standing on My Head |
Kyle,
Install the servo in the wing just outboard of the aileron bellcrank. If
the RV-6 is like the RV-7 you can sandwich a bracket under the bellcrank
brackets to mount the servo. I put nutplates in the spar web, but saw a picture
posted using the bellcrank bolts. Hopefully, that person will reply also. You
will only need a pushrod about 4 inches long. And you won't have to stand
on your head to install it.
There is almost no drag with the Navaid servo.
Dan Hopper
Walton, In
RV-7A (Flying since July)
In a message dated 3/3/05 7:31:11 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
kboatright1(at)comcast.net writes:
2) My big concern - installation time. Assuming I go with the under - seat
servo installation in my RV-6, how many hours am I going to have to spend
standing on my head, drilling holes and "making things fit". Aside
to pre-punched RV builders - "Just make it fit" used to be Van's mantra when
you called the tech support line. Given that there are 3,000+ non-prepunched
kits flying, it was good advise.
3) Control feel. I'm told by some that even with the wing leveler turned
off, there is additional drag in the control system. Is this true for all
installations? If so, how noticable is it?
Thanks in advance.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Levelers & Standing on My Head |
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
>
> I'm very tempted (make that very, very tempted) to add a wing leveler
> to my airplane. Only three things are holding me back:
>
> 1) The cost. As with all airplane related expenses, I'm sure I'll
> get over it.
Kyle, you will wonder why you didn't install the wing leveler sooner!
>
> 2) My big concern - installation time. Assuming I go with the under
> - seat servo installation in my RV-6, how many hours am I going to
> have to spend standing on my head, drilling holes and
> "making things fit". Aside to pre-punched RV builders - "Just make
> it fit" used to be Van's mantra when you called the tech support
> line. Given that there are 3,000+ non-prepunched kits flying, it was
> good advise.
If you use the Navaid servo, mount it on the wing tip rib:
http://www.thervjournal.com/navaid.html
This is by far the easiest install method in a flying RV. Matter of
fact, this is where I would mount a Navaid servo if I was building the
plane. Reason I mentioned the Navaid servo, it is much lighter than the
TruTrak servo. Don't know if the TruTrak servo would be heavy enough to
make you think twice about a wing tip mount, but the Navaid servo's
impact is unnoticeable when flying. Biggest hassle will be running the
control wires if you don't have a conduit in the wing. If you can push
them down an existing conduit, you are well on your way. You still have
to find a way to get the wires from behind the spar to the panel, but
hey........you built a non-prepunched kit......don't wimp out on us
now!!!! :-)
>
> 3) Control feel. I'm told by some that even with the wing leveler
> turned off, there is additional drag in the control system. Is this
> true for all installations? If so, how noticable is it?
The Navaid servo has a solenoid-driven clutch that totally disengages
when power is removed. There is *no* drag when it is disengaged. The
TruTrak servo is a stepping motor that is connected all the time and you
can feel a *little* drag while moving the controls on the ground, but
you would never notice it in the air.
Ok, Kyle, no more excuses........... ;-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles For Sale |
What, no aluminum version?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Levelers & Standing on My Head |
Kyle,
Either do as the two previous guys suggested and put it on the wingtip
or...Trutrak sends a bracket with their RV-6 install kit that puts the servo
under the seat. Either place doesn't seem to take too much time to install.
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: RV-List: Wing Levelers & Standing on My Head
I'm very tempted (make that very, very tempted) to add a wing leveler to my
airplane. Only three things are holding me back:
1) The cost. As with all airplane related expenses, I'm sure I'll get over
it.
2) My big concern - installation time. Assuming I go with the under - seat
servo installation in my RV-6, how many hours am I going to have to spend
standing on my head, drilling holes and "making things fit".
Aside to pre-punched RV builders - "Just make it fit" used to be Van's
mantra when you called the tech support line. Given that there are 3,000+
non-prepunched kits flying, it was good advise.
3) Control feel. I'm told by some that even with the wing leveler turned
off, there is additional drag in the control system. Is this true for all
installations? If so, how noticable is it?
Thanks in advance.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A |
Hi Dale,
In your case, I would say yes. Mainly because you're not yet flying, and
there are several advantages to the D-10A over the D-10 that are worth doing
before you fly.
#1) It feeds a Serial TXPDR with only 2 wires via RS-232 over 14 wires "gray
code"
#2) Better software, better display options
#3) Don't need the laptop in the plane to run the calibration routines.
If it were me, (and it is, since I'm flying behind a regular old D-10) I
would upgrade it at the point you're at. If I were flying behind one
already wired in and feeding my Txpdr via Grey Code, I wouldn't.
Just my 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dale Mitchell
Subject: RV-List: Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A
Is it worth upgrading my dynon EFIS-D10 to a
EFIS-D10A?
Thanks
Dale Mitchell
__________________________________
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | exhaust hanger clearance |
I just mounted a Larry Vetterman exhaust on my IO360. Larry sure does
good work. I'm installing the hangers. A 6A has a lot of engine mount
in the way at the bottom of the firewall. How much clearance should I
try to maintain between the exhaust hanger and the tubes of the engine
mount. I'm guessing that 1/4" to 3/8" is adequate. Or does it have to
be 1/2" or more?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: exhaust hanger clearance |
I bought a flying 6a and builder mounted the hangers on the engine mount
tubes, attaching with pieces of leather over the tubes themselves, looks and
works well, Charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: exhaust hanger clearance
I just mounted a Larry Vetterman exhaust on my IO360. Larry sure does
good work. I'm installing the hangers. A 6A has a lot of engine mount
in the way at the bottom of the firewall. How much clearance should I
try to maintain between the exhaust hanger and the tubes of the engine
mount. I'm guessing that 1/4" to 3/8" is adequate. Or does it have to
be 1/2" or more?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Levelers & Standing on My Head |
Before you mount anything under the seat please consider that it's a crush
zone. Anything under there can be shoved up you know where in the event of a
crash. At least put it under the passenger seat;-)
Regards,
Greg
>
> Either do as the two previous guys suggested and put it on
> the wingtip or...Trutrak sends a bracket with their RV-6
> install kit that puts the servo under the seat. Either place
> doesn't seem to take too much time to install.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Governor Oil Line |
With reference to an 0-320 with a rear mounted governor and a constant
speed prop: Is there any reason the prop governor oil line should not
run over the top of the engine? The distance is the same or maybe a bit
shorter. If it runs over the cylinders, it will penetrate the rear
baffle and be on the cool side of the engine.
However, most constant speed prop installations seem to have the oil
line running below the cylinders (the hot side) and penetrating the
engine baffling front floor. Is there a reason for this?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
Thanks for the great suggestion. I'll first need to find a multimeter that can
show 50 microamps.
I talked with Garmin Tech support today. He said "he heard of problems like that"
and that usually updating to the latest OS and doing a hard reboot fixes it.
Hmm. Must be a Microsoft windows product.
So I guess I'll try it. I downloaded and installed OS Version 3.92 Beta with no problems. This will delete all your User waypoints and Routes, so be sure and save them first. If you don't have MapSource you can use one of the free products like found on www.easygps.com.
Here is the master reboot procedure for your Garmin:
Turn GPS off
Hold down the OUT, QUIT and NRST buttons simultaneously
While holding those buttons tap the POWER button
The unit will beep but the screen will stay blank
(if you press the power button too long, it will just turn on - not what you
want)
Continue to hold the OUT, QUIT and NRST buttons simultaneously until you hear another
beep Release the OUT, QUIT and NRST buttons
The GPS now power up on its own and will be reset.
It took a couple tries but I got it to work. Note that this also will wipe out
all User waypoints and routes.
Use at your own risk. No warranty expressed or implied. YMMV. Etc.
I don't know how this will fix the power drain problem while connected on onboard
power - but we'll see.
Jeff Bertsch
lonestarsquadron.com
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
Jeff,
One way to get to the cause of this problem is to measure the battery
current. Take a piece of insulator (tape, cardboard, double sided circuit board,
etc.) and insulate one battery from the connector -- say at the positive end
of the series string, and bring out 2 wires. Or, bring out 2 wires and
connect the batteries externally through the meter. Put a multimeter in series
and
monitor the current drain. Is there a steady drain? 50 to 100 microamps
would run the batteries down in a few months. (Be careful not to turn the unit
on while on a sensitive range, of course.) If not, is there significant
drain during normal operation?
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying)
In a message dated 3/2/05 7:38:12 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
Larry(at)bowenaero.com writes:
I may be seeing this also. The batteries that are only meant to be
used as back
up went dead after only 3 months. I attributed it to the cold weather and
the
30 second count-down after main power is removed, but maybe it's something
else.....
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Quoting Jeff Bertsch :
>
> Both Bryan Jones and I have a the same problem with our Garmin 196:
>
> we have the GPS connected to onboard power, but the batteries keep
> going dead after a short period of time, even though we are not using
> them on battery power. I have also found a pilot on the Beechlist
> who has the same problem.
>
> Is there anyone else on the RV-list experiencing this?
>
> Jeff Bertsch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Levelers & Standing on My Head |
Tony Munday at Safeair1 has just developed a complete wing install kit
for the Navaid servo. I just bought one for my -6A for use with the Trio
EZ. The price is very reasonable. About $90.
Check out the Safeair1 web site.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing Levelers & Standing on My Head
Kyle,
Either do as the two previous guys suggested and put it on the wingtip
or...Trutrak sends a bracket with their RV-6 install kit that puts the
servo
under the seat. Either place doesn't seem to take too much time to
install.
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: RV-List: Wing Levelers & Standing on My Head
I'm very tempted (make that very, very tempted) to add a wing leveler to
my
airplane. Only three things are holding me back:
1) The cost. As with all airplane related expenses, I'm sure I'll get
over
it.
2) My big concern - installation time. Assuming I go with the under -
seat
servo installation in my RV-6, how many hours am I going to have to
spend
standing on my head, drilling holes and "making things fit".
Aside to pre-punched RV builders - "Just make it fit" used to be Van's
mantra when you called the tech support line. Given that there are
3,000+
non-prepunched kits flying, it was good advise.
3) Control feel. I'm told by some that even with the wing leveler turned
off, there is additional drag in the control system. Is this true for
all
installations? If so, how noticable is it?
Thanks in advance.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A |
> #1) It feeds a Serial TXPDR with only 2 wires via RS-232 over 14 wires "gray
> code"
Which transponders out there use serial input? I was under
the impression that there were not too many.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A |
Mickey,
The UPS Apollo SL-70 (now Garmin owned) can be programmed to accept either
serial or parallel input.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A
>
>
>> #1) It feeds a Serial TXPDR with only 2 wires via RS-232 over 14 wires
>> "gray
>> code"
>
> Which transponders out there use serial input? I was under
> the impression that there were not too many.
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | vor antenna - thanks! How about com antenna? |
0.51 PLING_QUERY Subject has exclamation mark and question mark
Thanks to those of you who responded to my questions about the wingtip vor antenna.
That was just the type of info I was looking for.
Now, how about using an Archer wingtip antenna for the COM radio? Good reception?
Walt Shipley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Using Sika 295 UV for the Canopy |
There might be truth in this as I have read that applying paint over a two
component epoxy primer requires that the paint should be applied within 24
hours. If you wait longer than that you must rough up the old primer
surface, reapply primer and then paint over the new primer. This is the
reason that I try not to prime parts which will be ultimately painted. I
only prime parts that are hidden and which thereby shall not be painted
over.
You can always check with Sika however you might want to make a test
yourself. Glue a piece on a freshly primed piece and do the same on a piece
on which the primer has fully set, say a month under room temperature
conditions. You can then pull on the glued pieces and determine if there is
any difference. I'd use a couple of angles riveted back to back and glued
onto a base material which can be firmly held in place. You can then test by
adding weights via a lever assembly through a hole in the angle's flange
which sticks out. The glued surface should be fairly small otherwise you
might need prohibitive weights to pull the thing apart. Or you might use
some kind of hydraulic pump which has a pressure indicator.
Michele - Wings RV8
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garey Wittich
> Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 10:09 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Using Sika 295 UV for the Canopy
>
>
> One Builder, on the RV List, mentioned that if Sika
> 295UV is to applied on Metal or Plexiglass after the
> Primer has dried for 2 hours, the old Primer needs to
> be cleaned and another coat of Primer applied. No
> other Builders on the RV List have mentioned this.
> What is the truth ????? This would be important
> especially when the WHOLE Canopy is basically "tacked"
> in place with the Sika 295 (using spacers between the
> Plexi and Frame), allowed to cure then cut into Slider
> and Windscreen - more than 2 hours will have passed.
> Does the black exposed Primer need to be cleaned and
> then reapplied again before Fillets are applied and
> the gaps between the steel canopy frame and the canopy
> are filled in. ????
>
> Thanks, Garey RV8A
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vor antenna - thanks! How about com antenna? 0.51 |
PLING_QUERY Subject has exclamation mark and question mark
I tried it and found it no better than the bent SS whip that builder
installed. I finally lowered my retirement fund a bit to get one of those
good blade antenas and mounted under belly, very good recp. I left the comm
in the tip for connecting my handheld if needed. Charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: vor antenna - thanks! How about com antenna? 0.51
PLING_QUERY Subject has exclamation mark and question mark
Thanks to those of you who responded to my questions about the wingtip vor
antenna. That was just the type of info I was looking for.
Now, how about using an Archer wingtip antenna for the COM radio? Good
reception?
Walt Shipley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Helming, L R & K L" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A |
And their marketing folks want you to buy their extra cost option. Perhaps
its time to consider an old time non-electric altimeter gauge for backup.
----- Original Message -----
>
> I've pondered the same thing.
>
> I DO WISH that they would make some of the same SIMPLE software changes
> for
> the D10 that they have made for the D10A, like having a Fahrenheit option
> and always showing the altimeter on the main screen.....
>
> -
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>> I asked the Dynon folks that question face to face at
>> Copperstate and they said they didn't think so. The advances
>> are incremental and not earthshaking in my opinion.
>>
>> Pax,
>>
>> Ed Holyoke
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>>
>> Is it worth upgrading my dynon EFIS-D10 to a EFIS-D10A?
>> Thanks
>> Dale Mitchell
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Helming, L R & K L" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A |
Garmin 327 can go either way, serial or gray.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A
>
>
>> #1) It feeds a Serial TXPDR with only 2 wires via RS-232 over 14 wires
>> "gray
>> code"
>
> Which transponders out there use serial input? I was under
> the impression that there were not too many.
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob" <rpgross(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Autopilot for Sale ooops! |
Sorry for the re-post, I meant to say Navaid Devices Auto pilot for sale
not Dynon. The cheese had slipped of my cracker a bit I suppose.
Warmest Regards,
Bob Gross
For the latest F1 Rocket/Synthetic Vision progress, click here...
www.F1-RocketBoy.com <http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/>
-----Disclaimer---------
The contents of this E-mail (including contents of enclosure/(s) or
attachment/(s) if any are privileged & confidential material of Innovative
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JEllis9847(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Using Sika 295 UV for the Canopy |
Garey,
To help you understand the surface preparation and use of Sika 295 go to
_www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-marine-surface-promoting_
(http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-marine-surface-promoting)
This info explains the need for a clean bonding surface. I found that you
can later apply additional adhesive to pre-existing adhesive
simply by re cleaning the surface of the old adhesive (no Primer) and it
sticks very well. You cannot detect the bond between the old
and new adhesive after it cures.
Jim Ellis
RV-9A # 90720
wiring panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Rotary eng in RV |
I have looked thru arch and didnt find anything current.-- I would like to know
who is running a rotary in thier RV, and evaluate, Also who tried one and pulled
it out?? charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotary eng in RV |
http://members.aol.com/rotaryroster/index.html?f=fs
and
http://www.flyrotary.com/
should get you started.
I now have 530+ hours on my RV-3.
Finn
Charles Heathco wrote:
>
>I have looked thru arch and didnt find anything current.-- I would like to know
who is running a rotary in thier RV, and evaluate, Also who tried one and pulled
it out?? charlie heathco
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Does anyone have an EFIS Lite flying? I would be willing to fly somewhere
to see one.
I would like to put IFR GPS in my -4.
EFIS lite would be an HSI (since Dynon Doug tells me that is not on their
short list of things to do)
It would be a backup to the Dynon, or the Dynon would be a backup to it....
I called Blue Mountain and asked if the EFIS lite would display all the
information necessary for IFR GPS certification and I did not get a clear
answer.
Would an additional annunciator switching box be required? The answer I got
was, "It does everything!"
Does it have an OBS resolver for GPS? "Well, it's internal GPS knows where
it is at all times so you can resolver anything"
How do you switch between OBS and Leg mode? "I don't understand, why would
you want to?"
In short, the unit looks very impressive, but my conversation with the home
office did not answer my questions, and that concerned me. Anyone have one
flying, and will it meet the requirements of a IFR GPS
indicator/Annunciator?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotary eng in RV |
Charlie, I currently have a bit over 260 hours in my Rotary powered RV-6A.
Tracy Crook of Bell, Fl has over 1600 hours in his rotary powered RV-4,
there are at least half a dozen with close to 400 or more hours in Rvs, a
number in canard type aircraft are now getting into the air.
Here is a few sources of more information if you are interested - any
questions, just shoot them my way. Be happy to address them.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
RV-6A N494BW
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
FlyRotary Group (Sign on for e mail list at their web page)
web page: http://www.flyrotary.com/
e mail: flyrotary(at)lancaironline.net
List of Rotary aviators and their projects (may be someone near you)
web page: http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/flying.html
Rotary Best Practices Web page (maintained by Mark Wrathall)
accumulates the lessons learned, the good, the bad and the Ugly regarding
flying
rotary engines.
web page: http://members.aon.at/wrathall/rotary/
VENDORS (The folks listed below sell something - Tracy Crook focuses
on products for the flying rotary that he develops and test flies
himself.
Tracy Crook's Web page of information and products (great place to
start)
web page: http://www.rotaryaviation.com
email: tcook(at)rotaryaviation.com
Fred Breese Web page of products including rotary engine mounts
web page: http://www.conversionconcepts.com
Dave Atkins Rotary Engines and products
web page: http://www.atkinsrotary.com/
Bruce Turrentine Rotary Engines
e mail: BruceTurrentine(at)aol.com
web page: http://rotaryresources.com/index.php
Company with just about anything for the rotary engine/RX-7
web page: http://www.mazdatrix.com/
And last my own web page of the history of my RV-6A rotary powered project-
I don't sell anything!
web page: http://dmack.net/mazda/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rotary eng in RV
>
> I have looked thru arch and didnt find anything current.-- I would like to
know who is running a rotary in thier RV, and evaluate, Also who tried one
and pulled it out?? charlie heathco
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A |
| From: | "Clinchy, Dave" <clinchd(at)losrios.edu> |
Micky:
>Which transponders out there use serial input? I was under the
impression >that there were not too many.
I just finished my D10A installation - it feeds my Apollo SL70
transponder with only two wires - it was an easy installation and fired
right up and is sending encoder info to the transponder.
Dave Clinchy
RV-7 Finish
Sacramento CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | magnetometer in an RV-8? |
vansairforce
Where are you -8 builders putting your magnetometers for your Blue Mountains
and your Dynons?
Some ideas and photos would be great!
Thanks!
-Bill
www.rv8a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Doug,
I recommend you check out BMA's own message board. It has several
messages in there pertaining to just that. One cool thing about them is
they keep an open board with all kinds of info that is NOT moderated.
You get the whole ball game there.
I can tell you that you WILL NOT get a straight answer to anything from
BMA. Lots of smoke and mirrors. Just know that going in. They have lots
of stokes in the fire so to speak and very little seems ready for prime
time.
That said... I have one cause for me, even if it does have what it
claims, its an unbelieveable unit.
I may be the only owner of a Dynon, GRT, MX20, and BMA unit. I know, Im
a geek.
I have the G3 lite wired in my panel here:
http://www.mstewart.net/deletesoon/panel2.jpg
See ya bud,
Mike
S8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: RV-List: EFIS Lite
Does anyone have an EFIS Lite flying? I would be willing to fly
somewhere
to see one.
I would like to put IFR GPS in my -4.
EFIS lite would be an HSI (since Dynon Doug tells me that is not on
their
short list of things to do)
It would be a backup to the Dynon, or the Dynon would be a backup to
it....
I called Blue Mountain and asked if the EFIS lite would display all the
information necessary for IFR GPS certification and I did not get a
clear
answer.
Would an additional annunciator switching box be required? The answer I
got
was, "It does everything!"
Does it have an OBS resolver for GPS? "Well, it's internal GPS knows
where
it is at all times so you can resolver anything"
How do you switch between OBS and Leg mode? "I don't understand, why
would
you want to?"
In short, the unit looks very impressive, but my conversation with the
home
office did not answer my questions, and that concerned me. Anyone have
one
flying, and will it meet the requirements of a IFR GPS
indicator/Annunciator?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
So Mike as a prospective BM customer I would like your opinion. I've read your
posts on the BM site and I know you're not too happy with the ergonomics of the
unit. Aside from ergonomics and knowing what you now know, which do you now
prefer: the Dynon or the BM Lite?
"Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" wrote:--> RV-List message posted
by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
Doug,
I recommend you check out BMA's own message board. It has several
messages in there pertaining to just that. One cool thing about them is
they keep an open board with all kinds of info that is NOT moderated.
You get the whole ball game there.
I can tell you that you WILL NOT get a straight answer to anything from
BMA. Lots of smoke and mirrors. Just know that going in. They have lots
of stokes in the fire so to speak and very little seems ready for prime
time.
That said... I have one cause for me, even if it does have what it
claims, its an unbelieveable unit.
I may be the only owner of a Dynon, GRT, MX20, and BMA unit. I know, Im
a geek.
I have the G3 lite wired in my panel here:
http://www.mstewart.net/deletesoon/panel2.jpg
See ya bud,
Mike
S8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: RV-List: EFIS Lite
Does anyone have an EFIS Lite flying? I would be willing to fly
somewhere
to see one.
I would like to put IFR GPS in my -4.
EFIS lite would be an HSI (since Dynon Doug tells me that is not on
their
short list of things to do)
It would be a backup to the Dynon, or the Dynon would be a backup to
it....
I called Blue Mountain and asked if the EFIS lite would display all the
information necessary for IFR GPS certification and I did not get a
clear
answer.
Would an additional annunciator switching box be required? The answer I
got
was, "It does everything!"
Does it have an OBS resolver for GPS? "Well, it's internal GPS knows
where
it is at all times so you can resolver anything"
How do you switch between OBS and Leg mode? "I don't understand, why
would
you want to?"
In short, the unit looks very impressive, but my conversation with the
home
office did not answer my questions, and that concerned me. Anyone have
one
flying, and will it meet the requirements of a IFR GPS
indicator/Annunciator?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | NAPA 7220 Self Etching Primer... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Does anyone know the equivellant part number of the quart for the 7220 Primer?
I currently am using the rattle cans and I think I am going
to keep using the same stuff but in a sprayer for the large parts. However the
people at NAPA cannot tell me what the part number is for
7220 in a quart. If anyone knows I would appreciate it, thanks.
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Well you can not compare the two really. BMA G3 lite although takes the
same form factor as the Dynon, is not even close to the same unit. With
a built in GPS, nav features, moving map, driving auto pilot, Highway in
the sky, HIS, and so forth is in a waaaaaayyy different league, and the
price reflects that. Nearly Double. Here is a post I made recently on
there board that explains a bit my feelings. Oh, and Im not a '
prospective' BMA customer since I have one.
The ergonomics are not a big deal as long as you know up front that
unless you want the thing in your face, then you will have to flush
mount it. I did not know that until I got the unit. Also, I LOVE the
giant knows and buttons. No problem finding it in the soup bumping
around,
=====
Dynon:
I was an early adopter of the Dynon and had the most hours on one in the
field. 800ish in my RV. I flew it IFR and it had its leaning problem.
That was tolerable, but there were pitch excursions that scared the
S#$@!$# out of me and I grounded the plane for some time untill they
were resolved. Other problems like EMI noise and do forth are all part
of playing with new technology. Since I do this for a living, test
software, it is a natural thing and is no big deal. There is absolutely
no question that its price/feature/function set can not be touched right
now. It is dead on in this area.
GRT:
NOT FLYING. Only powered and working in the panel in my basement. I
absolutely HATE people that comment on things that they dont know crap
about so I will only comment that it looks great. FLight tests will
tell. There were some real crappy docs, giant holes in the installations
instructions, a lot of stuff to figure out in integrating the unit
across the panel to the MX20, 430, and 330. It is not for the novice.
But it is doable. The GRT guys are the most mature in there development
IMHO. Their business practices, knowledge, and attention to detail are
above what I have seen with BMA and Dynon. The product is quite nice.
Field tests by others I know and have flown behind personaly have been
quite good. The form factor is perfect for my needs.
BMA
Units in the field have experienced their problems. BMA is in my back
yard and so we have many around here in Georgia. My only experience in
flying behind them has been in others planes. Local boys have been very
frustrated with the product issues. Clearly not the most mature
business. As they find their way in the market, I do think they will
come around, and they clearly are. BMA has to work on communications and
attention to detail. Their work out of the gate a couple years ago
was....... lets just say not good. It was not until the G3 lite that I
even paid attention just based on what I felt were poor business
practices. Once they got a standalone horizon and integrated gps/nav
function, they caught my attention enough that I put the past aside
jumped in to put it in as a backup device. I fly a lot of hours. 1500 in
3 years. I hope to help in making this a better product.
Thats my take. I personally would NOT rely on a single vendor for any
IFR work. My experience has been that I am WAYYY less worried about all
this electrical failure stuff people talk about and more worried about
Which is up in the soup and can these new units get it right. So I
spread my risk around and feel very comfortable doing that. Dynon and
Trio in my 6.... GRT, BMA and Trio in my S8 for a gyro set to stay
upright.
Thats my 2 cents. Id be happy to provide any follow up details. I will
not speak for others troubles, only my own.
=====
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Vanartsdalen
Subject: RE: RV-List: EFIS Lite
So Mike as a prospective BM customer I would like your opinion. I've
read your posts on the BM site and I know you're not too happy with the
ergonomics of the unit. Aside from ergonomics and knowing what you now
know, which do you now prefer: the Dynon or the BM Lite?
"Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" wrote:--> RV-List
message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
Doug,
I recommend you check out BMA's own message board. It has several
messages in there pertaining to just that. One cool thing about them is
they keep an open board with all kinds of info that is NOT moderated.
You get the whole ball game there.
I can tell you that you WILL NOT get a straight answer to anything from
BMA. Lots of smoke and mirrors. Just know that going in. They have lots
of stokes in the fire so to speak and very little seems ready for prime
time.
That said... I have one cause for me, even if it does have what it
claims, its an unbelieveable unit.
I may be the only owner of a Dynon, GRT, MX20, and BMA unit. I know, Im
a geek.
I have the G3 lite wired in my panel here:
http://www.mstewart.net/deletesoon/panel2.jpg
See ya bud,
Mike
S8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: RV-List: EFIS Lite
Does anyone have an EFIS Lite flying? I would be willing to fly
somewhere
to see one.
I would like to put IFR GPS in my -4.
EFIS lite would be an HSI (since Dynon Doug tells me that is not on
their
short list of things to do)
It would be a backup to the Dynon, or the Dynon would be a backup to
it....
I called Blue Mountain and asked if the EFIS lite would display all the
information necessary for IFR GPS certification and I did not get a
clear
answer.
Would an additional annunciator switching box be required? The answer I
got
was, "It does everything!"
Does it have an OBS resolver for GPS? "Well, it's internal GPS knows
where
it is at all times so you can resolver anything"
How do you switch between OBS and Leg mode? "I don't understand, why
would
you want to?"
In short, the unit looks very impressive, but my conversation with the
home
office did not answer my questions, and that concerned me. Anyone have
one
flying, and will it meet the requirements of a IFR GPS
indicator/Annunciator?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Cary <cary(at)Fusion.gat.com> |
| Subject: | Hanger or Garage |
SNIP
>Based on your experiences and or first hand knowledge, where does
>one get the most work done, home or at the field.
The results are in and I was very surprised to find that a large
majority (78%) of those responding felt that it would be better to
continue building at home for as long as possible before moving into
the hanger. What I hadn't mentioned in the original post was that
when I told my wife about the hanger her first words were "that
sounds great, now I can get MY garage back". So with that, I have
decided to continue working at home but to move the larger completed
pieces to the hanger. So I will have the best and worst of both
worlds.
Thanks again for everyone's input and for this great resource of
information and help.
Bill RV-9A wings
Ramona, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanger or Garage |
And blessed are the one's that live at an airpark where the hanger is part of the
house (or compound?)
Best of all worlds.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Cary
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 10:04 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Hanger or Garage
SNIP
>Based on your experiences and or first hand knowledge, where does
>one get the most work done, home or at the field.
The results are in and I was very surprised to find that a large
majority (78%) of those responding felt that it would be better to
continue building at home for as long as possible before moving into
the hanger. What I hadn't mentioned in the original post was that
when I told my wife about the hanger her first words were "that
sounds great, now I can get MY garage back". So with that, I have
decided to continue working at home but to move the larger completed
pieces to the hanger. So I will have the best and worst of both
worlds.
Thanks again for everyone's input and for this great resource of
information and help.
Bill RV-9A wings
Ramona, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Levelers & Standing on My Head |
You wont feel the autopilot.
If I was going to install only one autopilot, I would without question
install altitude hold. I flew around with just the Navaid for a while and
then added the alt hold. Much, much more useful. It only takes about a
second to get off altitude enough for atc to send you a nice little letter,
but you generally have 5 miles left or right before there's trouble.
Besides, its really easy to install.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Levelers & Standing on My Head
>
> I'm very tempted (make that very, very tempted) to add a wing leveler to
> my airplane. Only three things are holding me back:
>
> 1) The cost. As with all airplane related expenses, I'm sure I'll get
> over it.
>
> 2) My big concern - installation time. Assuming I go with the under -
> seat servo installation in my RV-6, how many hours am I going to have to
> spend standing on my head, drilling holes and "making things
> fit". Aside to pre-punched RV builders - "Just make it fit" used to be
> Van's mantra when you called the tech support line. Given that there are
> 3,000+ non-prepunched kits flying, it was good advise.
>
> 3) Control feel. I'm told by some that even with the wing leveler turned
> off, there is additional drag in the control system. Is this true for all
> installations? If so, how noticable is it?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> KB
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A |
How do run the calibration routines without using a computer?
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A
>
> Hi Dale,
>
> In your case, I would say yes. Mainly because you're not yet flying, and
> there are several advantages to the D-10A over the D-10 that are worth
> doing
> before you fly.
>
> #1) It feeds a Serial TXPDR with only 2 wires via RS-232 over 14 wires
> "gray
> code"
> #2) Better software, better display options
> #3) Don't need the laptop in the plane to run the calibration routines.
>
> If it were me, (and it is, since I'm flying behind a regular old D-10) I
> would upgrade it at the point you're at. If I were flying behind one
> already wired in and feeding my Txpdr via Grey Code, I wouldn't.
>
> Just my 2 cents as usual.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dale Mitchell
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon EFIS-D10 VS EFIS-D10A
>
>
> Is it worth upgrading my dynon EFIS-D10 to a
> EFIS-D10A?
> Thanks
> Dale Mitchell
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: panel label engraving with back lighting |
Wayne,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Your email was filed in the
wrong folder. Give me a call and I can explain what we have done in the past
and what you will need.
Wayne Cahoon
Aircraft Engravers
(860) 653-2780
(860) 653-7324 Fax
http://www.engravers.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com>
Subject: RV-List: panel label engraving with back lighting
>
>
> Looking for a supplier that has panel labels that are engravable and then
> a
> light(s) inserted into back of plastic. This little lite would illuminate
> all areas that are engraved.
>
> Thanks
>
> Wayne
> -7a panel
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | magnetometer in an RV-8? |
Bill,
I put mine behind the rear baggage compartment rear bulkhead, maybe 8" back,
mounted on a couple of small pieces of angle that span the fuselage side to
side between the middle stringers. I think it is going to work fine, but I'm
not flying yet.
Terry
RV-8A
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
vansairforce
Subject: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
Where are you -8 builders putting your magnetometers for your Blue Mountains
and your Dynons?
Some ideas and photos would be great!
Thanks!
-Bill
www.rv8a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Mike,
Yes, you are right about Blue Mountain's free-wheeling discussion board, up
to a point. I posted a link to Bob Nuckoll's review of Greg's book on
wiring small airplanes. It lasted a few hours before it disappeared off the
discussion board. I like Blue Mountain and Greg and am glad that I went
with them several years ago now, but apparently "free-wheeling" has its
limits, which doesn't include serious, reasoned criticism of Greg's ideas on
wiring airplanes. We will most likely never know what else gets censored.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
BMA EFIS/one
Doug,
I recommend you check out BMA's own message board. It has several
messages in there pertaining to just that. One cool thing about them is
they keep an open board with all kinds of info that is NOT moderated.
You get the whole ball game there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: magnetometer in an RV-8? |
Are you talking about the stiffeners on the fuse sides, or the full length
longerons? I don't think the lower stiffeners are exactly parallel to the
upper longerons.....which are parallel to level flight (I think)... Did
that make any sense? LOL
I thought about spanning the longerons and putting it back there, but I
don't want to span that much distance... I would also like to make it more
accessible... I am thinking of putting it under the VS...
I am going to do some testing this weekend with a compass to see where I can
do it without interference...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
Bill,
I put mine behind the rear baggage compartment rear bulkhead, maybe 8" back,
mounted on a couple of small pieces of angle that span the fuselage side to
side between the middle stringers. I think it is going to work fine, but I'm
not flying yet.
Terry
RV-8A
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
vansairforce
Subject: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
Where are you -8 builders putting your magnetometers for your Blue Mountains
and your Dynons?
Some ideas and photos would be great!
Thanks!
-Bill
www.rv8a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: magnetometer in an RV-8? |
Hi,
Wouldn't the wingtips be a good place?
Mickey
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Are you talking about the stiffeners on the fuse sides, or the full length
> longerons? I don't think the lower stiffeners are exactly parallel to the
> upper longerons.....which are parallel to level flight (I think)... Did
> that make any sense? LOL
>
> I thought about spanning the longerons and putting it back there, but I
> don't want to span that much distance... I would also like to make it more
> accessible... I am thinking of putting it under the VS...
>
> I am going to do some testing this weekend with a compass to see where I can
> do it without interference...
>
> -Bill
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
>
>
>
> Bill,
>
> I put mine behind the rear baggage compartment rear bulkhead, maybe 8" back,
> mounted on a couple of small pieces of angle that span the fuselage side to
> side between the middle stringers. I think it is going to work fine, but I'm
> not flying yet.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A
> Seattle
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com;
> vansairforce
> Subject: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
>
>
> Where are you -8 builders putting your magnetometers for your Blue Mountains
> and your Dynons?
>
> Some ideas and photos would be great!
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Bill
> www.rv8a.com
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | magnetometer in an RV-8? |
Yes, those are probably stiffeners back there. If they are not parallel to
the upper longerons, I'm sure they are close enough for a magnetometer to
detect magnetic north. I don't think being exactly horizontal is very
important for a compass.
Others have put the magnetometer on the shelf under the vertical and
horizontal stabilizers. I was concerned about weather exposure and the
steel bolts back there, but it probably works fine. It might also be a lot
easier to get at for installation and inspection.
As for the span across the fuselage, it doesn't take a very big aluminum
angle to support the very light magnetometer, even at several G's. If it
gets bouncy, I can run a diagonal brace to the upper or lower longeron.
Terry
Are you talking about the stiffeners on the fuse sides, or the full length
longerons? I don't think the lower stiffeners are exactly parallel to the
upper longerons.....which are parallel to level flight (I think)... Did
that make any sense? LOL
I thought about spanning the longerons and putting it back there, but I
don't want to span that much distance... I would also like to make it more
accessible... I am thinking of putting it under the VS...
I am going to do some testing this weekend with a compass to see where I can
do it without interference...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | magnetometer in an RV-8? |
Mickey,
The wingtips might be a great place if you could get far enough from the
electrical, and if they weren't going to be full of fuel on occasion as mine
are designed to be.
Terry
?
Hi,
Wouldn't the wingtips be a good place?
Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: magnetometer in an RV-8? |
Yes... but I riveted my wingtips on... I KNOW, it was not the best
idea.....I even did it again after I had a bird strike and had to replace
the LE on the left wing...
Maybe I will make a door on the bottom of the tip to access it and mount it
on the outer rib of the wing...
What problems would there be with running with cabling with Strobe leads...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
Hi,
Wouldn't the wingtips be a good place?
Mickey
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Are you talking about the stiffeners on the fuse sides, or the full length
> longerons? I don't think the lower stiffeners are exactly parallel to the
> upper longerons.....which are parallel to level flight (I think)... Did
> that make any sense? LOL
>
> I thought about spanning the longerons and putting it back there, but I
> don't want to span that much distance... I would also like to make it
> more
> accessible... I am thinking of putting it under the VS...
>
> I am going to do some testing this weekend with a compass to see where I
> can
> do it without interference...
>
> -Bill
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
>
>
> Bill,
>
> I put mine behind the rear baggage compartment rear bulkhead, maybe 8"
> back,
> mounted on a couple of small pieces of angle that span the fuselage side
> to
> side between the middle stringers. I think it is going to work fine, but
> I'm
> not flying yet.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A
> Seattle
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com;
> vansairforce
> Subject: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
>
>
> Where are you -8 builders putting your magnetometers for your Blue
> Mountains
> and your Dynons?
>
> Some ideas and photos would be great!
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Bill
> www.rv8a.com
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: magnetometer in an RV-8? |
yes, you're right about the horizontal axis being close enough... I am
going to go around the plane with a whiskey compass and see if I can find a
place... I would love to be able to put it right under the VS...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
Yes, those are probably stiffeners back there. If they are not parallel to
the upper longerons, I'm sure they are close enough for a magnetometer to
detect magnetic north. I don't think being exactly horizontal is very
important for a compass.
Others have put the magnetometer on the shelf under the vertical and
horizontal stabilizers. I was concerned about weather exposure and the
steel bolts back there, but it probably works fine. It might also be a lot
easier to get at for installation and inspection.
As for the span across the fuselage, it doesn't take a very big aluminum
angle to support the very light magnetometer, even at several G's. If it
gets bouncy, I can run a diagonal brace to the upper or lower longeron.
Terry
Are you talking about the stiffeners on the fuse sides, or the full length
longerons? I don't think the lower stiffeners are exactly parallel to the
upper longerons.....which are parallel to level flight (I think)... Did
that make any sense? LOL
I thought about spanning the longerons and putting it back there, but I
don't want to span that much distance... I would also like to make it more
accessible... I am thinking of putting it under the VS...
I am going to do some testing this weekend with a compass to see where I can
do it without interference...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | vor antenna - thanks! How about com antenna? 0.51 |
PLING_QUERY Subject has exclamation mark and question mark
Walt,
For IFR, I would recommend an external COM antenna. This and the xponder
antenna are the only two external antennas you need, in my opinion. A
possible exception might be the GPS antenna if you have an IFR-capable GPS.
Archer's antenna would probably work just fine for VFR, the problem as I see
it is that you are losing some efficiency because of the horizontal
polarization of the signal which, while flying in precip, might adversely
affect COM performance.
All of this is just one guy's opinion of course, and I would defer to Bob
Nuckoll's advice as well.
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rveighta
Subject: RV-List: vor antenna - thanks! How about com antenna? 0.51
PLING_QUERY Subject has exclamation mark and question mark
Thanks to those of you who responded to my questions about the wingtip vor
antenna. That was just the type of info I was looking for.
Now, how about using an Archer wingtip antenna for the COM radio? Good
reception?
Walt Shipley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: magnetometer in an RV-8? |
What about this... Use a couple of small angles, maybe rudder stiffener
material, or maybe .125" angle material, riveted to the HS spanning the top
surface as far forward as you can get... This would get you several inches
(6-8 maybe) away from any bolts, and may also get you far enough away from
the elevator arms... See this photo:
http://www.rv8a.com/panel/panel3/mag.jpg
I'll stick a compass up there tomorrow and see if it swings at all...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
yes, you're right about the horizontal axis being close enough... I am
going to go around the plane with a whiskey compass and see if I can find a
place... I would love to be able to put it right under the VS...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
Yes, those are probably stiffeners back there. If they are not parallel to
the upper longerons, I'm sure they are close enough for a magnetometer to
detect magnetic north. I don't think being exactly horizontal is very
important for a compass.
Others have put the magnetometer on the shelf under the vertical and
horizontal stabilizers. I was concerned about weather exposure and the
steel bolts back there, but it probably works fine. It might also be a lot
easier to get at for installation and inspection.
As for the span across the fuselage, it doesn't take a very big aluminum
angle to support the very light magnetometer, even at several G's. If it
gets bouncy, I can run a diagonal brace to the upper or lower longeron.
Terry
Are you talking about the stiffeners on the fuse sides, or the full length
longerons? I don't think the lower stiffeners are exactly parallel to the
upper longerons.....which are parallel to level flight (I think)... Did
that make any sense? LOL
I thought about spanning the longerons and putting it back there, but I
don't want to span that much distance... I would also like to make it more
accessible... I am thinking of putting it under the VS...
I am going to do some testing this weekend with a compass to see where I can
do it without interference...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: magnetometer in an RV-8? |
in just doing some tests here in the office with an old whiskey
compass.....using things like my stapler and my cell phone... I have to be
within 6" of the compass to get it to swing... Using something like a bolt
I have to be within 2" to get it to swing...
I know this is very crude... Maybe I can hook up the MM to my EFIS Sport
and use it on the plane, should be more accurate to see if the area is going
to make it swing...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
What about this... Use a couple of small angles, maybe rudder stiffener
material, or maybe .125" angle material, riveted to the HS spanning the top
surface as far forward as you can get... This would get you several inches
(6-8 maybe) away from any bolts, and may also get you far enough away from
the elevator arms... See this photo:
http://www.rv8a.com/panel/panel3/mag.jpg
I'll stick a compass up there tomorrow and see if it swings at all...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
yes, you're right about the horizontal axis being close enough... I am
going to go around the plane with a whiskey compass and see if I can find a
place... I would love to be able to put it right under the VS...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
Yes, those are probably stiffeners back there. If they are not parallel to
the upper longerons, I'm sure they are close enough for a magnetometer to
detect magnetic north. I don't think being exactly horizontal is very
important for a compass.
Others have put the magnetometer on the shelf under the vertical and
horizontal stabilizers. I was concerned about weather exposure and the
steel bolts back there, but it probably works fine. It might also be a lot
easier to get at for installation and inspection.
As for the span across the fuselage, it doesn't take a very big aluminum
angle to support the very light magnetometer, even at several G's. If it
gets bouncy, I can run a diagonal brace to the upper or lower longeron.
Terry
Are you talking about the stiffeners on the fuse sides, or the full length
longerons? I don't think the lower stiffeners are exactly parallel to the
upper longerons.....which are parallel to level flight (I think)... Did
that make any sense? LOL
I thought about spanning the longerons and putting it back there, but I
don't want to span that much distance... I would also like to make it more
accessible... I am thinking of putting it under the VS...
I am going to do some testing this weekend with a compass to see where I can
do it without interference...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: magnetometer in an RV-8? |
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> in just doing some tests here in the office with an old whiskey
> compass.....using things like my stapler and my cell phone... I have to be
> within 6" of the compass to get it to swing... Using something like a bolt
> I have to be within 2" to get it to swing...
>
> I know this is very crude... Maybe I can hook up the MM to my EFIS Sport
> and use it on the plane, should be more accurate to see if the area is going
> to make it swing...
>
> -Bill
Bill, it has been my experience that the whiskey compass test is indeed
valid for verifying a good location for the magnetometer. I have found
you must have ferrous material very close to the mag in order to upset it.
Sam Buchanan (Dynon with magnetometer)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruise performance data |
Hi All,
> Chris and George seem to be discussing maximum theoretical propeller
> efficiency.
>
>Theoretical propeller efficiency:
> 91.5% for a 2 blade propeller
> 90.7% for a 3 blade propeller.
(Where do these numbers come from? How do they relate, RV prop or P-51 prop?)
Theoretical numbers, with no reference, is making assumptions on assumptions. You
are mixing apples and oranges. Theory is great to gain insight and make predictions
and validate test results. Your flight test data is not consistent with
this theory, showing the 3 blade MT faster by 6 MPH but also slower by 6 MPH
at another RPM/altitude? Unfortunately, this means the data is not dependable
and may lead people to the wrong conclusion.
I am not talking theoretical. RV's with 2 blades are 2.4% to 3.9% faster than
3 blades per below (4) references:
The subject of prop theory is more complicated than two numbers. Things that affect
an airplane wing apply to a prop airfoil, plus the added complication the
wings (blades) are rotating. If multi-blades were better universally, than we
would all be flying Bi-planes with 6 blade props. : -)
Comparing 2 blades VS 3 blades props:
Randy Lervold ( WW 150 - 2.3% slower than 2 Blades)
http://www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
Article published Sport Aerobatics, June 2001 ( MT12B - 3.7% slower than 2 Blades)
http://www.rv-8.com/Downloads/WHICH%20PROP%20IS%20BETTER.doc
John "at" lazy8.net (MT12B - 4.4 kts slower than 2 Blades)
http://www.lazy8.net/proptest.htm
RVator Newsletter, 1st issue 2004 (MT12B - 3.8% slower than 2 Blades)
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?browse=videos&product=rvator
What does that mean? Practically speaking 2 blades are going to be about 4-8 mph
faster than 3 blades on a typical RV, flying in typical conditions, no theory,
just real world experience. I know of two builders who started with 3 blades
but switched to 2 blades due to performance.
Engineers and Scientist have been doing prop test since Wright Bros. The Ref. below
is from NACA, circa 1939, testing the effect of blade numbers. They were
pretty smart, even in 1939. This is not new or all that controversial. The only
controversy is every manufacture claims their prop is 10mph faster.
If you want theoretical, 2 blade props can be **6.6% more efficient than 3 blades.
However for high HP and high-speed applications (P-51, turbo-props) 3, 4 or
more blades is most efficient, because of the physical limitations of 2 blades,
such as prop diameter, tip speeds, ground clearance and strength of blade
and crank. The problem with adding more blades on a RV, is you have excess blade
area from what is needed, which adds more drag. It is like shoes; they have
to fit the foot. That is why the goal is to use the least number of blades to
meet criteria. In some cases criteria calls for 3 blades, but for other reasons
than speed.
Flight test data:
Data published on your web site, comparing a MT 3 blade vs 2 Blade Hartzell (not
the new blended airfoil), shows the speed difference varies widely from -3.1%
to +3.1% at different RPMs and altitudes. For every prop there is an optimum
operating condition (diameter, blade number and shape, horsepower, airspeed,
altitude, rpm, etc.). In the RV operating range you will not see large variations
in the performance between prop models. Constant speed prop performance increases
linearly at first and than levels-off. (Note: levels-off does not mean
a drop-off in speed.) Data has no trend and is all over the map. Performance
at specific altitudes and RPM's is not consistent with other altitudes and RPMs
for that same prop. No offense, but I know its very hard to get good data,
especially for so many props and conditions. I applaud your effort. To get good
data on one prop, one altitude and RPM is hard enough, much less for 4 different
props, 5 altitudes, 4 RPMs on several differen
t days.
The experience of several other RV builders and Van and Company show two-blade
props enjoy a 5-8 mph advantage over the 3 blade MT, in typical operations from
top speed to cruise on RVs. Sorry.
> Jim further writes:
> Empirical data (actual measurements) shows real 2 blade propellers
> have around 87% to 88% propeller efficiency.
>
> What does this really mean?
>
> For a 2 blade propeller at 87% efficiency on an aircraft able to fly
> at 200 mph. The theoretical 2 blade propeller at 91.5% efficiency would allow
the
> aircraft to fly at 205 mph. (How about some of you data types checking
> this information?)
The goal is the least number of blades to get the *job* done while maintaining
all other design limits and goals. The definition of *job* can vary, but for those
RV'ers who revere top or cruise speed, I would recommend a 2-blade prop.
The Hartzell Blended airfoil is a very good choice. If you want composite blade
construction than the 2 blade Whirl Wind 200RV prop may be a good choice, but
with reservations. As a small manufacture in California, repair (?) and distribution
is only from the manufacture. MT also suffers from this to a degree.
Repairs sometime need to be done by the manufacture in Germany, requiring shipping.
>
> For a 200 mph aircraft, that's about 1 mph for every 1% change in
> efficiency. Which is what Chris said for the difference in theoretical
> propeller efficiency between a 2 blade propeller and a 3 blade propeller.
>
> Regards,
>Jim Ayers
> >
> >Chris W. writes:
> >I can't speak to the specifics about any particular 2 vs 3 blade prop,
> >but I read some NASA research that gave relative efficiencies for
> >various numbers of blades. I know that had 2, 3 and 4 blade props in
> >their data and maybe more. As you pointed out, more blades are less
> >efficient, however the difference in efficiency between a 2 and a 3
> >bladed prop is very small. I don't remember the exact numbers, but I
> >do remember calculating that at 200 mph, the difference would be no more
> >than 1 mph.
For those who prioritize speed as their prime RV mission, I would use a 2-blade
prop. If max speed is not important, than 3 blades has some nice advantages.
Thanks for the test data Jim, which I know was a lot of work.
Cheers George
PS Theory: There is a lot of info available on the web. Prop theory is not cut
and dry. There are many simplifying assumptions and several conceptual approaches.
Here are some good ref's from Randy's web site:
http://www.aerospaceweb.org/question/propulsion/q0039.shtml
http://www.djaerotech.com/dj_askjd/dj_questions/fourblade.html
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/authors/bingelis/The%20Fixed%20Pitch%20Propellor%20Dillemma.html
http://www.auf.asn.au/groundschool/propeller.html
**(Ref: Propeller Tests to Determine the Effect of Number of Blades at Two Typical
Solities, By E.P. Lesley, Stanford University:
http://naca.larc.nasa.gov/reports/1939/naca-tn-698/naca-tn-698.pdf
This reference concludes the most efficient prop is one that maximizes the dia
for the required blade area (chord and diameter) as long as fundamental parameters
are not exceeded. (tip speed, gnd clearance and strength). For high HP and
speed applications multi blades are required. That is no doubt why pilots are
drawn to hanging multi-blade props on their RV because of this relation with
powerful fast aircraft like the P-51. One side note was the importance of spinners.
I wonder, did you install spinners on all props? If not that will affect
efficiency and results.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: magnetometer in an RV-8? |
Hi Terry,
I have not heard of others with "the electrical" in place have no problem
with the servo being nearby.
I would imagine that it should not be too difficult to mount the servo just
inside the outermost wing rib, so that the tip tank can still be installed.
I would opt for the retro fit to some where out in the wing. I mounted mine
(during the build) in the fuse under the right seat with a longer pushrod
over to the left control stick.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
>
> Mickey,
>
> The wingtips might be a great place if you could get far enough from the
> electrical, and if they weren't going to be full of fuel on occasion as
> mine
> are designed to be.
>
> Terry
>
>
> ?
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Wouldn't the wingtips be a good place?
>
> Mickey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: magnetometer in an RV-8? |
Oops I obviously did not read the subject title!
I am building a 6A and I put the magnatometer on the shelf in front of the
horiszontal stab. Looking at a friends 8 this area should work for the 8 as
well.
I will send you pics if you want. I sent pics of the install to the
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare about a year ago.
sorry about the oops,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
>
> Mickey,
>
> The wingtips might be a great place if you could get far enough from the
> electrical, and if they weren't going to be full of fuel on occasion as
> mine
> are designed to be.
>
> Terry
>
>
> ?
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Wouldn't the wingtips be a good place?
>
> Mickey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | # 4 Cylinder running hot ?? |
Guys:
I need help in solving this mystery. I have noticed over the last 25 hours
that my #4 cylinder is running hotter than normal and seems to be getting
even hotter. Nothing is blocking the air flow .. can't find anything that has
changed in my setup under the cowl ...
What do you think is going on ???
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
329 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: # 4 Cylinder running hot ?? |
I had a similar problem once. A mag had loosened up and was slightly out
of time. Worth a look.
Jim
>
> Guys:
>
> I need help in solving this mystery. I have noticed over the last 25
hours
> that my #4 cylinder is running hotter than normal and seems to be
getting
> even hotter. Nothing is blocking the air flow .. can't find anything
that has
> changed in my setup under the cowl ...
>
> What do you think is going on ???
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, NC N910LL
> 329 hrs
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: # 4 Cylinder running hot ?? |
Hi Len,
Could it be the inlet tube for that cylinder is leaking? The connecting hose
could be leaking or a gasket or seal may be leaking.
Have you tested compression with a leakdown tester?
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: # 4 Cylinder running hot ??
>
> Guys:
>
> I need help in solving this mystery. I have noticed over the last 25
> hours
> that my #4 cylinder is running hotter than normal and seems to be getting
> even hotter. Nothing is blocking the air flow .. can't find anything
> that has
> changed in my setup under the cowl ...
>
> What do you think is going on ???
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, NC N910LL
> 329 hrs
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
>
>I called Blue Mountain and asked if the EFIS lite would display all the
>information necessary for IFR GPS certification and I did not get a clear
>answer.
>
>Would an additional annunciator switching box be required? The answer I got
>was, "It does everything!"
>
>Does it have an OBS resolver for GPS? "Well, it's internal GPS knows where
>it is at all times so you can resolver anything"
>
>How do you switch between OBS and Leg mode? "I don't understand, why would
>you want to?"
>
>In short, the unit looks very impressive, but my conversation with the home
>office did not answer my questions, and that concerned me. Anyone have one
>flying, and will it meet the requirements of a IFR GPS
>indicator/Annunciator?
Doug,
If you want IFR GPS certification, you'll need to deal with
AC20-138A, which has to be the worst written AC I have ever seen. I
have always understood it to "require"[1] the GPS to meet TSO-C129
(for a non-WAAS capable box) or TSO-C146 (for a WAAS capable box).
The predecessor AC20-138 was much easier to slog through.
I seriously doubt BMA is up to getting TSO-C129 certification for
their unit, so I would give up on getting IFR GPS certification based
on it.
[1] I put "require" in quotation marks as ACs are only advisory, not
regulatory. So, you may find an FAA inspector somewhere who takes a
different view of the world who might approve things that are
contrary to the AC. But I wouldn't bank on it.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
I assume the 196 remains in the aircraft.
If this is a problem only seen when the GPS is wired into the aircraft then either
the GPS enters
some obscure mode because it is in the aircraft (unlikely) or there there is current
leakage from
the GPS either from the power pin or the serial output pin of the auxiliary power/data
connector.
If it is a reverse current via the power pin then a series diode would isolate
the GPS from the
aircraft power system. The 196 can operate from 8V adding the diode with its 0.6
volt drop is
unlikely to cause a problem but will block the discharge.
If the leakage is from the serial output pin, possible if the serial port is not
turned off in the
GPS firmware, then it is likely to be a discharge through the input protection
diodes of the
receiving circuit (for example this might be an auto pilot). The protection diodes
will prevent the
voltage on the input pin exceeding the power supply rail voltage inside the equipment,
which should
be zero if it is switched off.
So if the GPS serial output pin has any voltage this will cause a discharge into
the receiving
equipment. This current may be as low as half a milliamp but will discharge AA
batteries in the time
frame mentioned. Unfortunately not too much can be done to fix this other than
hoping the upgraded
GPS firmware rectifies the fault.
A first step would be to measure if you have any voltage on these pins when the
GPS is turned off.
Alternatively why not simply remove the batteries.
I am interested in how this turns out.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
Yes, the 196 stays in the aircraft.
Rather than remove the batteries I can simply unplug the power connector on the
back after shutdown.
But I'll use it for a while and see how long it lasts. It may take a few weeks
before I can tell anything. The diodes may be a good solution if that is the
problem.
Jeff
lonestarsquadron.com
Doug Gray wrote:
I assume the 196 remains in the aircraft.
If this is a problem only seen when the GPS is wired into the aircraft then either
the GPS enters
some obscure mode because it is in the aircraft (unlikely) or there there is current
leakage from
the GPS either from the power pin or the serial output pin of the auxiliary power/data
connector.
If it is a reverse current via the power pin then a series diode would isolate
the GPS from the
aircraft power system. The 196 can operate from 8V adding the diode with its 0.6
volt drop is
unlikely to cause a problem but will block the discharge.
If the leakage is from the serial output pin, possible if the serial port is not
turned off in the
GPS firmware, then it is likely to be a discharge through the input protection
diodes of the
receiving circuit (for example this might be an auto pilot). The protection diodes
will prevent the
voltage on the input pin exceeding the power supply rail voltage inside the equipment,
which should
be zero if it is switched off.
So if the GPS serial output pin has any voltage this will cause a discharge into
the receiving
equipment. This current may be as low as half a milliamp but will discharge AA
batteries in the time
frame mentioned. Unfortunately not too much can be done to fix this other than
hoping the upgraded
GPS firmware rectifies the fault.
A first step would be to measure if you have any voltage on these pins when the
GPS is turned off.
Alternatively why not simply remove the batteries.
I am interested in how this turns out.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | VIDEO to eat all other videos (so far) |
http://images.rvproject.com/movies/20050304_mountain_rainbow.wmv
Sometimes words just can't describe it.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | VIDEO to eat all other videos (so far) |
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: VIDEO to eat all other videos (so far)
http://images.rvproject.com/movies/20050304_mountain_rainbow.wmv
Sometimes words just can't describe it.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Dan: Outstanding. Exactly the way RV's are meant to be flown.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
Can anybody shoot me an e-copy of this sketch? Seems like yet "another"
drawing I'm missing out of the two sets of blueprints and preview plans I
have for my RV6.
BTW, You can purchase blueprint pages from Van's for $3.50 each if you are a
builder. I'm waiting for yet another one to be delivered Monday...
Thanks!
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | # 4 Cylinder running hot ?? |
>Guys:
>
>I need help in solving this mystery. I have noticed over the last 25
>hours
>that my #4 cylinder is running hotter than normal and seems to be getting
>even hotter. Nothing is blocking the air flow .. can't find anything
>that has
>changed in my setup under the cowl ...
>
>What do you think is going on ???
>
>Len Leggette, RV-8A
>Greensboro, NC N910LL
>329 hrs
Len,
Possibilities that I can think of:
1. Baffles
2. Ring blow-by
3. Exhaust valve or valve seat failure
4. Cylinder head crack
I'd do a compression check while hot to rule out most of these items. Mag
or EI timing could have changed too.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: # 4 Cylinder running hot ?? |
Len,
I assume that your referring to the CHT for that
cylinder. What's your EGT doing? If CHT is getting
hotter and EGT is getting cooler, look for an ignition
related issue, such as timing. Also, try replacing
both plugs on that cylinder with new ones. A cracked
spark plug insulator can can cause varying degrees of
detonation, and that will raise the CHT & drop EGT.
If you are seeing a rise of both CHT and EGT, the
problem is likely mixture related. This could be from
a vacuum leak, or a slightly clogged injector.
If the EGT hasn't changed much, then look for cooling
related problems.
Note that valve & compression problems will actually
result in a cooler CHT, and hotter EGT.
Skylor
RV-8 QB
Under Construction
--- Lenleg(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Guys:
>
> I need help in solving this mystery. I have noticed
> over the last 25 hours
> that my #4 cylinder is running hotter than normal
> and seems to be getting
> even hotter. Nothing is blocking the air flow ..
> can't find anything that has
> changed in my setup under the cowl ...
>
> What do you think is going on ???
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, NC N910LL
> 329 hrs
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VIDEO to eat all other videos (so far) |
Who did the music, is that Pat Methany?
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 52 Msgs - 03/04/05 |
Charles,
I *think* Tim at _tshrem(at)comcast.net_ (mailto:tshrem(at)comcast.net) has one,
you might give him a try.
Jerry Cochran
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rotary eng in RV
I have looked thru arch and didnt find anything current.-- I would like to
know
who is running a rotary in thier RV, and evaluate, Also who tried one and
pulled
it out?? charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alison and Neil <alisonandneil(at)direcway.com> |
I need to set the record straight on eMachineShop. I posted that the part I designed
was going to cost $1,720.00.That is wrong. That was the price for 100! I
didn't notice that the default quantity on the order form was 100. The actual
price for 1 part was about $155.00 and for 10 about $320.00 plus about $7 for
packing and shipping. The time estimate was about 29 days or 37 days if you
wanted it anodized. The extra charge for anodizing was about $40 weather you ordered
1 or 10 parts. I have never drawn anthing on CAD before and had the part
drawn and a price and time estimate in under an hour. I think that is remarkable.
I think price is very reasonable and although I had a few listers volunteer
their services (Thanks!) I may try this company out of curiosity. I'll let
you know how it goes.
Neil McLeod
RV-7
Bisbee, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: magnetometer in an RV-8? |
Ok, well I tried the whiskey compass in this position, and all other
positions under the emp fairing, and movement of the elevators would swing
it... Not a good place IMHO...
I think I am going to make a small bracket to mount the thing on one for the
side stiffeneners in the space behind the baggage compartment, maybe where
the static source is... the BM MM is a little different than the dynon so I
think I can do it without spanning across that space...
More to come...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
What about this... Use a couple of small angles, maybe rudder stiffener
material, or maybe .125" angle material, riveted to the HS spanning the top
surface as far forward as you can get... This would get you several inches
(6-8 maybe) away from any bolts, and may also get you far enough away from
the elevator arms... See this photo:
http://www.rv8a.com/panel/panel3/mag.jpg
I'll stick a compass up there tomorrow and see if it swings at all...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
yes, you're right about the horizontal axis being close enough... I am
going to go around the plane with a whiskey compass and see if I can find a
place... I would love to be able to put it right under the VS...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: magnetometer in an RV-8?
Yes, those are probably stiffeners back there. If they are not parallel to
the upper longerons, I'm sure they are close enough for a magnetometer to
detect magnetic north. I don't think being exactly horizontal is very
important for a compass.
Others have put the magnetometer on the shelf under the vertical and
horizontal stabilizers. I was concerned about weather exposure and the
steel bolts back there, but it probably works fine. It might also be a lot
easier to get at for installation and inspection.
As for the span across the fuselage, it doesn't take a very big aluminum
angle to support the very light magnetometer, even at several G's. If it
gets bouncy, I can run a diagonal brace to the upper or lower longeron.
Terry
Are you talking about the stiffeners on the fuse sides, or the full length
longerons? I don't think the lower stiffeners are exactly parallel to the
upper longerons.....which are parallel to level flight (I think)... Did
that make any sense? LOL
I thought about spanning the longerons and putting it back there, but I
don't want to span that much distance... I would also like to make it more
accessible... I am thinking of putting it under the VS...
I am going to do some testing this weekend with a compass to see where I can
do it without interference...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions? |
To Mike Robertson-
Mike-
When changing out the ignition system (OEM Slick magnetos) to electronic
(two new P-mags), must I or how do I approach the FAA or my DAR (Dave Morss)?
Is this considered a major modification to my RV-6A and do I have to take it
back into testing mode? I expect to get the P-mag installation completed
next week but want to ensure that all is properly done paperwork wise and legal.
Thanks in advance.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
Just a line on exp-aircraft IFR AC-20-27-F para 17 for IFR you need to meet
the requirments of 91.205(b)
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: eMachineShop
> Neil, It would be great if someone would design a better FAB Carb Air
> Cleaner Base. Making one from scratch just to have them crack at about 400
> Hrs. is a pain!
>
> Tom in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alison and Neil" <alisonandneil(at)direcway.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2005 10:08 PM
> Subject: RV-List: eMachineShop
>
>
>>
>>
>> I need to set the record straight on eMachineShop. I posted that the part
>> I designed was going to cost $1,720.00.That is wrong. That was the price
>> for 100! I didn't notice that the default quantity on the order form was
>> 100. The actual price for 1 part was about $155.00 and for 10 about
>> $320.00 plus about $7 for packing and shipping. The time estimate was
>> about 29 days or 37 days if you wanted it anodized. The extra charge for
>> anodizing was about $40 weather you ordered 1 or 10 parts. I have never
>> drawn anthing on CAD before and had the part drawn and a price and time
>> estimate in under an hour. I think that is remarkable. I think price is
>> very reasonable and although I had a few listers volunteer their services
>> (Thanks!) I may try this company out of curiosity. I'll let you know how
>> it goes.
>>
>> Neil McLeod
>> RV-7
>> Bisbee, AZ
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
I need a handful (about 20) AN470 5-11 rivets, something Van doesn't carry.
The small aviation outlet in town doesn't carry them either. Any
suggestions for a source? Since I need a couple of dollars worth, a company
with a $25.00 minimum isn't going to work well for me...
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet source? |
Try:
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com
These guys have just about everything.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet source?
>
> I need a handful (about 20) AN470 5-11 rivets, something Van doesn't
carry.
> The small aviation outlet in town doesn't carry them either. Any
> suggestions for a source? Since I need a couple of dollars worth, a
company
> with a $25.00 minimum isn't going to work well for me...
>
> Thanks!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
Neither Aircraft Spruce or Wicks have a minimum.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Burton
Subject: RV-List: Rivet source?
I need a handful (about 20) AN470 5-11 rivets, something Van doesn't carry.
The small aviation outlet in town doesn't carry them either. Any
suggestions for a source? Since I need a couple of dollars worth, a company
with a $25.00 minimum isn't going to work well for me...
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alison and Neil <alisonandneil(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: eMachineShop |
I've been thinking about that too. I think on mine I'll put a doubler on it
and possibly a brace up to the sump.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject: Fw: RV-List: eMachineShop
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: eMachineShop
>
>
>> Neil, It would be great if someone would design a better FAB Carb Air
>> Cleaner Base. Making one from scratch just to have them crack at about
>> 400
>> Hrs. is a pain!
>>
>> Tom in Ohio
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Alison and Neil" <alisonandneil(at)direcway.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2005 10:08 PM
>> Subject: RV-List: eMachineShop
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I need to set the record straight on eMachineShop. I posted that the
>>> part
>>> I designed was going to cost $1,720.00.That is wrong. That was the price
>>> for 100! I didn't notice that the default quantity on the order form was
>>> 100. The actual price for 1 part was about $155.00 and for 10 about
>>> $320.00 plus about $7 for packing and shipping. The time estimate was
>>> about 29 days or 37 days if you wanted it anodized. The extra charge for
>>> anodizing was about $40 weather you ordered 1 or 10 parts. I have never
>>> drawn anthing on CAD before and had the part drawn and a price and time
>>> estimate in under an hour. I think that is remarkable. I think price is
>>> very reasonable and although I had a few listers volunteer their
>>> services
>>> (Thanks!) I may try this company out of curiosity. I'll let you know how
>>> it goes.
>>>
>>> Neil McLeod
>>> RV-7
>>> Bisbee, AZ
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Vans 5 point seat belts |
Anyone have pictures of the Vans 5 point seat belts? The catalog says
they have aluminum hardware and that the 4 point selt belts have steel
hardware and I guess are crome plated. I've seen those but don't recall
seeing any with aluminum hardware.
I'm thinking about ordering Vans navy blue 5 point seltbelts, any reason
not to?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Danclovic" <pauldan4(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed ign. with aft battery |
Has anybody done this on a -8? The instructions say to
connect the power and ground directly to the battery terminals,
bypassing any bus or master solenoid. This would envolve either
unsoldering the provided connector to the module and installing
longer shielded wires or making a shielded splice as the leads are
only about 5 feet long. Is bypassing the main bus to ensure ignition
if the master solenoid fails or is it an ignition noise issue?
thanks!
Paul Danclovic
Carver MN
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans 5 point seat belts |
Bobby, I have a set of 5 point seat belts from Van's for our RV-8 and all
hardware is chrome plated steel. The price is right for Van's belts and
they appear to be high quality.
Walt Shipley RV-8A, Flying RV-8 finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
Subject: RV-List: Vans 5 point seat belts
Anyone have pictures of the Vans 5 point seat belts? The catalog says
they have aluminum hardware and that the 4 point selt belts have steel
hardware and I guess are crome plated. I've seen those but don't recall
seeing any with aluminum hardware.
I'm thinking about ordering Vans navy blue 5 point seltbelts, any reason
not to?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Major or Minor Modification for electronic |
This question of Major Modification after phase I has come up before, and maybe
we can get some more input. I do have some practical advise, but not the definitive
word:
>
> Mike-
>
> When changing out the ignition system (OEM Slick magnetos) to electronic (two
new
> P- mags), must I or how do I approach the FAA or my DAR (Dave Morss)?
>
> Is this considered a major modification to my RV-6A and do I have to
> take it back into testing mode?
>
> I expect to get the P-mag installation completed next week but want to ensure
that all is
> properly done paperwork wise and legal.
What about installing a LASAR electronic ignition on a Piper. Do they re-certify
the plane? (No) So what about experimental aircraft? We don't need or have STC's
or 8110 forms.
I am not sure this is black-n-white. The question is what paper work? Do you have
to bring the FAA or DAR out? The aircraft is already certified. Does the mod
make it a new aircraft type? (no)
Major modifications need to be approved, but approved by whom? I say the builder
(manufacture) can approve the modification. Right? Make the modification, log
it and do the "return to service flight test" of no set time. Based on the judgment
of the builder, the aircraft is deemed airworthy (safe). ANY COMMENTS?
What about changes to Props, Fuel injection to Carb to HC pistons. Does this require
a complete Phase one, re-certification? All these things, including electronic
ignition are major mods, but I am not so sure the FAA needs to be notified
or *cares? What about adding IFR or night capability later, post-phase I.
INSURANCE:
Now this is a different matter. I know modifications do have insurance ramifications.
One builder in my area switched from Carb to FI. Had an off field landing
after the Mod and the insurance company did not pay because he changed the
configuration. (BTW the power loss was not a result of the FI mod!). How did the
insurance company know. He told them.
Where is there a detailed configuration/equipment list noted? How would an insurance
company or the FAA for that matter know what you changed after certifying
it? Where does it say you have Mags or Electronic ignition? I did get an insurance
quote recently, and they do ask specifics about ignition, prop, as well
as catch all questions. In the past I do not recall detailed questionnaires about
equipment.
** I have heard a few guy's who have done mods and asked the FAA about "re-certifying."
The FAA kept saying, "It's Experimental isnt it?" (wink-wink). Basically
they did not want to hear about it, or they did not know what to say and had
something in their eye.
Ask the FAA. Call different FISDO across the country and get as many different
answers. Good luck. My opinion is make the change, document it, test it, and make
a return to service annotation in the logbook. If you have insurance notify
them what you did and get it in writing, preferably before you do your first
post mod flight. If some one has a AC, FAR regarding it, I have not found it.
Cheers George
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Thorne" <rv7a(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans 5 point seat belts |
You might want to look at the below web site I just got my five point belts
from them in the 2" harness size. Not chrome plated but a good price for
the cam lock buckles.
Good people to work with. Respond promptly to emails and took my order over
the phone. Received the belts in two days.
http://www.crowenterprizes.com./
Jim Thorne
RV-7A QB
CHD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans 5 point seat belts |
I have them. They are very similar to the Cessna belts, if I recall
correctly.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
>To: RV-List
>Subject: RV-List: Vans 5 point seat belts
>
>
>Anyone have pictures of the Vans 5 point seat belts? The catalog says
>they have aluminum hardware and that the 4 point selt belts have steel
>hardware and I guess are crome plated. I've seen those but don't recall
>seeing any with aluminum hardware.
>
>I'm thinking about ordering Vans navy blue 5 point seltbelts, any reason
>not to?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Helming, L R & K L" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans 5 point seat belts |
I got the 5 point crotch kit by vans installed. I like the way they will
function but did not like the install. I'll get a picture or two today and
send to you tonight. Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
Subject: RV-List: Vans 5 point seat belts
>
> Anyone have pictures of the Vans 5 point seat belts? The catalog says
> they have aluminum hardware and that the 4 point selt belts have steel
> hardware and I guess are crome plated. I've seen those but don't recall
> seeing any with aluminum hardware.
>
> I'm thinking about ordering Vans navy blue 5 point seltbelts, any reason
> not to?
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | new goodies from Trio Avionics |
....just when I thought I was finished with my panel........
http://www.trioavionics.com/alt_hold.htm
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: new goodies from Trio Avionics |
Sam,
I'm surprised you don't have a test unit yet! :-)
These look sweet, don't they?
Mickey
Sam Buchanan wrote:
> ....just when I thought I was finished with my panel........
>
> http://www.trioavionics.com/alt_hold.htm
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: magnetometer in an RV-8? |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> Sure, the elevator moves quite a bit during manoeuvring flight, but
> do we really care how accurate our compass is while we are going over
> the top of a loop, or during a stall or a hard turn?
>
> How much difference in elevator position is there over the range of
> conditions in straight, 1 g flight? The worst case extremes would
> be approach speed, flaps down, forward CG and high speed, flaps up,
> aft CG. My RV isn't flying yet, so I don't know the answer to that
> question. But there might not be enough movement to make a
> significant difference.
>
> Kevin
Excellent point, Kevin. The Dynon mag has worked fine on the forward end
of the rear deck on my RV-6. And in case somebody suspects the BMA unit
may be more sensitive, I used the same location successfully when BMA
was using the ultra-high$$$$$$$ Honeywell magnetometer.
May be some slight differences in the RV-8 vs the RV-6, but if the mag
is located under the leading edge of the vertical stab, I think it will
be fine.
Sam Buchanan
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Major or Minor Modification for electronic |
Cover your self and do 10 hrs of phase one for the P-mag
installation. The way I understand it is now you don't need a DAR
of FAA. Put it in phase one and then put it back into phase two
after the 10 hrs.
Don't give the insurance people a way out of a claim
Consider it a Major mod.
Stewart, RV 4 in co.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier(at)lamar.colostate.edu> |
| Subject: | governor oil line |
RV-List message posted by: Charlie Brame
With reference to an 0-320 with a rear mounted governor and a constant
speed prop: Is there any reason the prop governor oil line should not
run over the top of the engine?
I have used this line successfully in an O320 D2J. I believe it is a little
shorter than going underneath. Inadvertanly posted this on the RV9 list
yesterday
Don Piermattei
RV-9A N 192 DP
Donald L. Piermattei DVM, PhD
5000 E County Rd 92
Carr, CO 80612
970/568-9047
Fax 970/568-7279
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Major or Minor Modification for electronic |
That's correct IF, repeat IF, you have the "new" operating
limitations...the older ones did not have the part that allows the builder
to make major changes and go back into phase 1. Those older ones DID,
repeat, DID, require another inspection from FAA or a DAR. Read your
operating limitations to be certain.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: <RVer273sb(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic
>
> Cover your self and do 10 hrs of phase one for the P-mag
> installation. The way I understand it is now you don't need a DAR
> of FAA. Put it in phase one and then put it back into phase two
> after the 10 hrs.
> Don't give the insurance people a way out of a claim
> Consider it a Major mod.
>
> Stewart, RV 4 in co.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Major or Minor Modification for electronic |
I believe you can get a DAR or FAA to update the older
limitations to the new ones.
Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new goodies from Trio Avionics |
Me too. Anybody know if they are shipping yet? I know they have said
by Sun n Fun, but it would sure be nice to have one for the trip to Sun
n Fun. I plan to call them first thing tomorrow.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>I'm surprised you don't have a test unit yet! :-)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Major or Minor Modification for electronic |
John is absolutely correct. I had to get my operating limitations paper
work changed to incorporate the "authority" to do major modifications -
which IF you have the new wording- does permit you to make, test and sign
off a major mod. If your operating limitations does not convey that
authority and you make a "major modification" and DO NOT get the FAA/DAR to
sign off and have an accident, then might as well forget your insurance. For
additional "insurance" I think you would be well advised to the Repairman's
Certificate as well - but that along is not sufficient. Your operating
instructions need to be amended (by the FAA) if you do not have the
authority to make a major mod.
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic
>
> That's correct IF, repeat IF, you have the "new" operating
> limitations...the older ones did not have the part that allows the builder
> to make major changes and go back into phase 1. Those older ones DID,
> repeat, DID, require another inspection from FAA or a DAR. Read your
> operating limitations to be certain.
>
> John
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RVer273sb(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic
>
>
> >
> > Cover your self and do 10 hrs of phase one for the P-mag
> > installation. The way I understand it is now you don't need a DAR
> > of FAA. Put it in phase one and then put it back into phase two
> > after the 10 hrs.
> > Don't give the insurance people a way out of a claim
> > Consider it a Major mod.
> >
> > Stewart, RV 4 in co.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions? |
It depends on what you Operating Limitations state for a major change.
Changing to the electronic ignition from Slick Mags is definitely a major
change. If you have the early limitations you will have to contact your
local FSDO prior to making the change. A DAR cannot do this one. If you
have newer limitations that allow you to do the major change yourself, then
you make a log entry stating what you've done, place the aircraft back into
Phase one for a mimimum of five hours, and go fly the test flights until
either five hours is up and you are satisfied it is safe, or you must keep
flying after the five hours until you are satisfied with the performance.
After you are done with the test flight you make another log entry placing
the aircraft back into phase two. If you have the newest limitations you
must contact the FSDO for concurrence on the test flight area. They can do
that via telephone and FAX. You are not getting permission to make the
change, just getting concurrence on the test flight area.
Any mor equestions give me a shout.
Mike R.
>From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions?
>Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 02:44:17 EST
>
>
>To Mike Robertson-
>
>Mike-
>
>When changing out the ignition system (OEM Slick magnetos) to electronic
>(two new P-mags), must I or how do I approach the FAA or my DAR (Dave
>Morss)?
>
>Is this considered a major modification to my RV-6A and do I have to take
>it
>back into testing mode? I expect to get the P-mag installation completed
>next week but want to ensure that all is properly done paperwork wise and
>legal.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>
>GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: new goodies from Trio Avionics |
Stein Bruch wrote:
>
> I agree. That's what the Altrak has had for years!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein.
No.....the AlTrak switch is just a lighted pushbutton. The new razzle
dazzle LCD switch on the Trio altitude hold unit actually has different
messages that are annunciated as necessary.
Sam Buchanan
=========================
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: new goodies from Trio Avionics
>
>
>
>
> Who cares about the functions, what I like is the LCD, backlit, push
> button switch! Now that's cool! Mmmm gadgets.
>
> Michael Sausen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | new goodies from Trio Avionics |
I'd love to get a few of these and the associated driver hdwe (RISC controller??)
to make custom annunciators for my next panel... no need to re-engrave when
you wanted to add new alarm functions, etc. Cool.
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
Muy 6a has a couple small red LED spotlights mounted on the canopy about 2 inches
behind rear travel of the latch, controled by a dimmer on side of Fusl. I
want to put on a canopy shade which will require removal of the lights. I am cosidering
mounting those strip lights I recently read about in an av mag, and
wondered if anyone had used that setup, or what lightting setup some folks are
using?? charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hosein shafiei <shafiei8000(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Besr enginr/prop |
Dear listers,
What is the best engine/prop for RV-7?
Regards,http://profiles.yahoo.com/shafiei6000
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Spongy brake RV-4 |
Michael;
I would bet that there is air in your brake system. If the master
cylinders can be turned upside down while bleeding,then you might get it out.
I made a plug for the resevoir with a small ( 1/8" or so ) hose through it
so I could flow a bunch of fluid through there , as suggested by another. I
also bled the system from the top with the plug/hose. I still had to loosen
a tubing nut to get small bubbles out above the brake cylinders.
Even a small bubble in such a small system will cause spongy brake pedal.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Besr enginr/prop |
>
>What is the best engine/prop for RV-7?
We don't know what you consider important, so we can't answer that.
If we all had the same priorities we would all by flying Cessna 172s.
Rank the following in order of importance and get back to us:
low cost
low weight
excellent take-off and climb performance
excellent cruise performance
ability to get good cruise speed with low rpm
ability to fly in rain without having to reduce rpm
no need to frequently retorque the prop bolts
ability to run autogas
ability to achieve high power at high altitude
availability of support from Vans
amount of good service history available
desire to experiment with new technology
ability to use standard kit parts without any mods
low build time
little amount of rework required after you start flying
which do you prefer - flying or building?
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spongy brake RV-4 |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
The reservoir is one of those small alum self contained units, screwed
directly into the master cyl, on the top of the master cyl.. Is it
really possible to fill from caliper, come through the master cylinder,
up to the res and still have air in the master cyl?
No leaks, no air. I can see the whole line start to finish.
Great input guys, Im still not convinced its could be air.
Mike
So not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Spongy brake RV-4
Michael;
I would bet that there is air in your brake system. If the master
cylinders can be turned upside down while bleeding,then you might get
it out.
I made a plug for the resevoir with a small ( 1/8" or so ) hose through
it
so I could flow a bunch of fluid through there , as suggested by
another. I
also bled the system from the top with the plug/hose. I still had to
loosen
a tubing nut to get small bubbles out above the brake cylinders.
Even a small bubble in such a small system will cause spongy brake
pedal.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arnold de Brie" <arnold(at)paperchip.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed ign. with aft battery |
Hello
I made the direct connection to the battery by lengthening the wire.
This ensures maximum voltage to the ignition while starting
One disadvantage.
I left the ignition key on once ( main switch off )
The small current to the Lightspeed drains the battery completely.
Arnold
Netherlands
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions? |
Don't know about anybody else's operating limitations, but mine (March 2004)
reference FAR 21.93, which attempts to distinguish minor from major in the
context of alterations.
Here's the latest FAA-hosted version of Part 21.93:
http://checkoway.com/url/?s=8c86c2a8
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions?
>
> It depends on what you Operating Limitations state for a major change.
> Changing to the electronic ignition from Slick Mags is definitely a major
> change. If you have the early limitations you will have to contact your
> local FSDO prior to making the change. A DAR cannot do this one. If you
> have newer limitations that allow you to do the major change yourself,
then
> you make a log entry stating what you've done, place the aircraft back
into
> Phase one for a mimimum of five hours, and go fly the test flights until
> either five hours is up and you are satisfied it is safe, or you must keep
> flying after the five hours until you are satisfied with the performance.
> After you are done with the test flight you make another log entry placing
> the aircraft back into phase two. If you have the newest limitations you
> must contact the FSDO for concurrence on the test flight area. They can
do
> that via telephone and FAX. You are not getting permission to make the
> change, just getting concurrence on the test flight area.
>
> Any mor equestions give me a shout.
>
> Mike R.
>
> >From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic
ignitions?
> >Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 02:44:17 EST
> >
> >
> >To Mike Robertson-
> >
> >Mike-
> >
> >When changing out the ignition system (OEM Slick magnetos) to electronic
> >(two new P-mags), must I or how do I approach the FAA or my DAR (Dave
> >Morss)?
> >
> >Is this considered a major modification to my RV-6A and do I have to
take
> >it
> >back into testing mode? I expect to get the P-mag installation
completed
> >next week but want to ensure that all is properly done paperwork wise
and
> >legal.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >
> >GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: eMachineShop |
| From: | "Gould, Richard AE1 NAVTESTWINGPAC 561000E" <richard.j.gould(at)navy.mil> |
> I need to set the record straight on eMachineShop. I posted that the part I designed
> was going to cost $1,720.00.That is wrong. That was the price for 100! I
> didn't notice that the default quantity on the order form was 100. The actual
> price for 1 part was about $155.00 and for 10 about $320.00 plus about $7 for
> packing and shipping. The time estimate was about 29 days or 37 days if you
> wanted it anodized. The extra charge for anodizing was about $40 weather you
ordered
> 1 or 10 parts. I have never drawn anthing on CAD before and had the part
> drawn and a price and time estimate in under an hour. I think that is remarkable.
> I think price is very reasonable and although I had a few listers volunteer
> their services (Thanks!) I may try this company out of curiosity. I'll let
> you know how it goes.
>
> Neil McLeod
Let me know how that works out. I have a device I invented/designed (non-aviation
related) that I have been toying around with and contemplating building a prototype.
When I submitted the design for a price check, I think it had come out
to about $300+ per part (3 parts), but now, I'm not sure what I had selected
for quantity. If it was for a hundred then my project suddenly becomes a little
more tangible with relation to disposable income. I'll have to recheck it!
I have been pretty impressed with the program. I have used a bunch of free and
low-cost CAD programs and it is by far the best that I have used--and easiest!
Its 3D modeling capabilities, is one thing I find valuable. I did screen captures
to get .JPG images of the different parts. First time I was actually able
to view a 3D image of my design, that wasn't in my head.
I can see how this program/website could be very handy for some aircraft parts
that require higher-level metal work (CNC, special alloys, etc).
Rick Gould
RV-4 Oak Harbor, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | magnetometer in an RV-8? |
Hi Bill, Charlie, Kevin, et al-
Sorry for the delay in responding, but work and the digest format can put
me out of synch with you guys.
As I understand the situation, everyone's concerns about the potential for
interference with the function of the magnetometers is technically valid,
but operationally insignificant. I'm not flying yet, so I can't make a
direct observation. I do accept the premise though. I also guarantee
you'll all hear about it if this doesn't work out acceptably.
On an entirely different note, those of you with better resources than me
might be interested to know of about a dozen green and brown camouflaged
F-86's in Honduras. They are crammed on the edge of a ramp, and three or
four were without canopies, so I presume they are no longer in the active
inventory. One of you enterprising folk could perhaps swing a bulk deal,
remembering of course that I would be willing to accept one as a finder's
fee...
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions? |
Interesting.
1. Is it possible to have individual Operating Limitations
changed/reissued by the local FSDO so that I don't have to receive
approval for changes prior actually making them?
2. On a different tangent, but want to ask while I am thinking about
paperwork: I have been keeping airframe and powerplant logs in an
Excel spreadsheet. Is this acceptable? I suppose I could transcribe
them into the logbook if necessary. I keep external paper documents
in a binder, and make a reference to them in the spreadsheet; for
example, my prop balance entry has the verbage for having a propeller
balanced, see spectrum analysis plot dated blah blah blah in the
powerplant binder. I figure when I go to sell the airplane I could
print the logs out and sign each entry...
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
wrote:
>
> It depends on what you Operating Limitations state for a major change.
> Changing to the electronic ignition from Slick Mags is definitely a major
> change. If you have the early limitations you will have to contact your
> local FSDO prior to making the change. A DAR cannot do this one. If you
> have newer limitations that allow you to do the major change yourself, then
> you make a log entry stating what you've done, place the aircraft back into
> Phase one for a mimimum of five hours, and go fly the test flights until
> either five hours is up and you are satisfied it is safe, or you must keep
> flying after the five hours until you are satisfied with the performance.
> After you are done with the test flight you make another log entry placing
> the aircraft back into phase two. If you have the newest limitations you
> must contact the FSDO for concurrence on the test flight area. They can do
> that via telephone and FAX. You are not getting permission to make the
> change, just getting concurrence on the test flight area.
>
> Any mor equestions give me a shout.
>
> Mike R.
>
> >From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions?
> >Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 02:44:17 EST
> >
> >
> >To Mike Robertson-
> >
> >Mike-
> >
> >When changing out the ignition system (OEM Slick magnetos) to electronic
> >(two new P-mags), must I or how do I approach the FAA or my DAR (Dave
> >Morss)?
> >
> >Is this considered a major modification to my RV-6A and do I have to take
> >it
> >back into testing mode? I expect to get the P-mag installation completed
> >next week but want to ensure that all is properly done paperwork wise and
> >legal.
> >
> >Thanks in advance.
> >
> >
> >GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions? |
I've had 'old' op lims replaced with updated ones twice (2 different
RV-4's). It was a relatively painless procedure; the worst time was the
2nd time when I had to actually schedule my visit to the FSDO due to the
imminent danger of terrorism here in central Mississippi. (I'm sure that
requirement didn't come from the local FAA guys.)
I called, they sent the new forms to be filled out & told me what to fax
over, they prepared the new paperwork & I dropped by (after scheduling
the visit, of course) to trade old for new.
The 1st new set, pre--9-11, set the flight test area & only required 2
logbook entries (& the 5 hrs flight test, of course) for major mods. The
2nd set, post--9-11, requires you to notify the FSDO of the intent to
retest & they fax you confirmation of your test area. (as Mike described
below) Then it's the 2 logbook entries.
Your mileage (& FSDO) may vary. :-) There are things that the local
guys might not be up to speed on when it comes to homebuilts if
homebuilding isn't really active in your area. The 1st time I updated op
lims, our guys had to make a phone call or 2 to get up to speed. Most of
them aren't EAA members & don't deal with homebuilts that much.
Can't help you on the Excel log issue.
Charlie
Bob J wrote:
>
>Interesting.
>
>1. Is it possible to have individual Operating Limitations
>changed/reissued by the local FSDO so that I don't have to receive
>approval for changes prior actually making them?
>
>2. On a different tangent, but want to ask while I am thinking about
>paperwork: I have been keeping airframe and powerplant logs in an
>Excel spreadsheet. Is this acceptable? I suppose I could transcribe
>them into the logbook if necessary. I keep external paper documents
>in a binder, and make a reference to them in the spreadsheet; for
>example, my prop balance entry has the verbage for having a propeller
>balanced, see spectrum analysis plot dated blah blah blah in the
>powerplant binder. I figure when I go to sell the airplane I could
>print the logs out and sign each entry...
>
>Regards,
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
>
>
> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>It depends on what you Operating Limitations state for a major change.
>>Changing to the electronic ignition from Slick Mags is definitely a major
>>change. If you have the early limitations you will have to contact your
>>local FSDO prior to making the change. A DAR cannot do this one. If you
>>have newer limitations that allow you to do the major change yourself, then
>>you make a log entry stating what you've done, place the aircraft back into
>>Phase one for a mimimum of five hours, and go fly the test flights until
>>either five hours is up and you are satisfied it is safe, or you must keep
>>flying after the five hours until you are satisfied with the performance.
>>After you are done with the test flight you make another log entry placing
>>the aircraft back into phase two. If you have the newest limitations you
>>must contact the FSDO for concurrence on the test flight area. They can do
>>that via telephone and FAX. You are not getting permission to make the
>>change, just getting concurrence on the test flight area.
>>
>>Any mor equestions give me a shout.
>>
>>Mike R.
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
>>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions?
>>>Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 02:44:17 EST
>>>
>>>
>>>To Mike Robertson-
>>>
>>>Mike-
>>>
>>>When changing out the ignition system (OEM Slick magnetos) to electronic
>>>(two new P-mags), must I or how do I approach the FAA or my DAR (Dave
>>>Morss)?
>>>
>>>Is this considered a major modification to my RV-6A and do I have to take
>>>it
>>>back into testing mode? I expect to get the P-mag installation completed
>>>next week but want to ensure that all is properly done paperwork wise and
>>>legal.
>>>
>>>Thanks in advance.
>>>
>>>
>>>GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions? |
I've had 'old' op lims replaced with updated ones twice (2 different
RV-4's). It was a relatively painless procedure; the worst time was the
2nd time when I had to actually schedule my visit to the FSDO due to the
imminent danger of terrorism here in central Mississippi. (I'm sure that
requirement didn't come from the local FAA guys.)
I called, they sent the new forms to be filled out & told me what to fax
over, they prepared the new paperwork & I dropped by (after scheduling
the visit, of course) to trade old for new.
The 1st new set, pre--9-11, set the flight test area & only required 2
logbook entries (& the 5 hrs flight test, of course) for major mods. The
2nd set, post--9-11, requires you to notify the FSDO of the intent to
retest & they fax you confirmation of your test area. (as Mike described
below) Then it's the 2 logbook entries.
Your mileage (& FSDO) may vary. :-) There are things that the local
guys might not be up to speed on when it comes to homebuilts if
homebuilding isn't really active in your area. The 1st time I updated op
lims, our guys had to make a phone call or 2 to get up to speed. Most of
them aren't EAA members & don't deal with homebuilts that much.
Charlie
Bob J wrote:
>
>Interesting.
>
>1. Is it possible to have individual Operating Limitations
>changed/reissued by the local FSDO so that I don't have to receive
>approval for changes prior actually making them?
>
>2. On a different tangent, but want to ask while I am thinking about
>paperwork: I have been keeping airframe and powerplant logs in an
>Excel spreadsheet. Is this acceptable? I suppose I could transcribe
>them into the logbook if necessary. I keep external paper documents
>in a binder, and make a reference to them in the spreadsheet; for
>example, my prop balance entry has the verbage for having a propeller
>balanced, see spectrum analysis plot dated blah blah blah in the
>powerplant binder. I figure when I go to sell the airplane I could
>print the logs out and sign each entry...
>
>Regards,
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
>
>
> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>It depends on what you Operating Limitations state for a major change.
>>Changing to the electronic ignition from Slick Mags is definitely a major
>>change. If you have the early limitations you will have to contact your
>>local FSDO prior to making the change. A DAR cannot do this one. If you
>>have newer limitations that allow you to do the major change yourself, then
>>you make a log entry stating what you've done, place the aircraft back into
>>Phase one for a mimimum of five hours, and go fly the test flights until
>>either five hours is up and you are satisfied it is safe, or you must keep
>>flying after the five hours until you are satisfied with the performance.
>>After you are done with the test flight you make another log entry placing
>>the aircraft back into phase two. If you have the newest limitations you
>>must contact the FSDO for concurrence on the test flight area. They can do
>>that via telephone and FAX. You are not getting permission to make the
>>change, just getting concurrence on the test flight area.
>>
>>Any mor equestions give me a shout.
>>
>>Mike R.
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
>>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions?
>>>Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 02:44:17 EST
>>>
>>>
>>>To Mike Robertson-
>>>
>>>Mike-
>>>
>>>When changing out the ignition system (OEM Slick magnetos) to electronic
>>>(two new P-mags), must I or how do I approach the FAA or my DAR (Dave
>>>Morss)?
>>>
>>>Is this considered a major modification to my RV-6A and do I have to take
>>>it
>>>back into testing mode? I expect to get the P-mag installation completed
>>>next week but want to ensure that all is properly done paperwork wise and
>>>legal.
>>>
>>>Thanks in advance.
>>>
>>>
>>>GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Empennage - HS-405 edge distance |
| From: | alan(at)reichertech.com |
All,
I'm working on the RV-8 empennage. Reference drawing 3, you can see where
the HS-702, HS-405, and HS-801PP all overlap.
After drilling the skin to the skeleton and then disassembling, I notice
that the hole that goes through those three items does not meet minimum
edge distance on the HS-405 towards the front edge of the flange (both top
and bottom). This hole is the one that is in the seamed area of the
HS-405.
The holes in HS-702 are down the centerline of the flange, so I'm not sure
where the alignment problem is.
If I were to rebend the front and rear flanges of HS-405 slightly to shift
the web of HS-405 forward, then I start getting into the edge distance on
the top and bottom flanges at the rear end instead of the front.
Any thoughts on what's going on here? Has anyone else seen this, and if
so, how did you correct it?
--
Alan Reichert
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Building Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Insurance issues |
I thought it might be useful to post my findings re insurance on our RV"s (and
other experimentals) No mater who you agency is, you will most likly be carried
by AIG.
I found out today that other than the max 4 listed and aproved pilots, your ins
does not cover any claim if anyone else, including onother RV pilot with same
type insurance is flying the plane WITH, or without your permission. That also
includes you also being in the rt seat. I post this as it is news to me and
couple other RV drivers. charles heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Governor, Hartzell CS Prop |
The flatter pitch (high rpm) setting on my governor results in the actuating arm
on the governor moving to too acute an angle versus the cable end....if this
makes sense. I actually need a few more rpms, but further stop adjustment makes
the angle so acute that the cable binds a bit. What I would like to do is
to remove the actuating arm and turn it ten degree or so, reinstalling the arm,
then readjust the cable. It looks as if the governor shaft is splined and
that removal of the actuating arm should be rather simple. This is an "on plane"
adjustment and the work area tight. Any surprises awaiting me in there?
Is it as simple as just removing loosening the arm retaining bolt, turning the
arm the desired amount then reinstalling the bolt?....then readjusting the cable?
This forum is a great resource....your experience will be appreciated.
tony marshall
rv6
polson, mt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Governor, Hartzell CS Prop |
Not sure which gov you have but most would have you loosen the 6 small
screws and rotate the center housing then retighten. I had to do this on my
Hartzel prop/MT gov. Thats why they recommend setting it all up off the
plane first(which I did not do) so I lost a little blood over it. I have the
manual so if you need more info let me know.
John furey
RV6A O-320
330-324-2041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
>Alternatively why not simply remove the batteries.
The point of the issue is that when one is flying in less desirable wx (like
IMC!) and the electrical system fails, the GPS would keep working for some
period of time without having to remove the GPS from the panel or mount,
install batteries, reinstall, power back up *and* still fly the plane in bad
wx.
In the event of a power loss, my Dynon will continue to give me attitude
information and, if this issue can be resolved, the GPS will (hopefully) get
me to a runway.
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Farner <sfarner(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Empennage - HS-405 edge distance |
Alan,
I am not sure if it is the same, but I had the same problem on my -7
HS. I had about a 1x diameter edge spacing. My HS-702 also was
centered on the skin holes in this situation too. You might want to
check the rear-to-front spar spacing as shown in the plan view of DWG
3 to see how far, if at all that is off and move the front spar
accordingly.
Sorry I couldn't be more help but just wanted to let you know that
you're not alone.
--
Scott
Wings Arrive Tomorrow!
www.scottfarner.com
wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I'm working on the RV-8 empennage. Reference drawing 3, you can see where
> the HS-702, HS-405, and HS-801PP all overlap.
>
> After drilling the skin to the skeleton and then disassembling, I notice
> that the hole that goes through those three items does not meet minimum
> edge distance on the HS-405 towards the front edge of the flange (both top
> and bottom). This hole is the one that is in the seamed area of the
> HS-405.
>
> The holes in HS-702 are down the centerline of the flange, so I'm not sure
> where the alignment problem is.
>
> If I were to rebend the front and rear flanges of HS-405 slightly to shift
> the web of HS-405 forward, then I start getting into the edge distance on
> the top and bottom flanges at the rear end instead of the front.
>
> Any thoughts on what's going on here? Has anyone else seen this, and if
> so, how did you correct it?
>
> --
> Alan Reichert
> RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
> Building Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
My 195 has a battery icon displayed on the screen when you are running on
batteries. As soon as ship's power comes online the icon goes out. Does
your 196 have the same icon? That could help you troubleshoot if it does.
The voltage display page could also help...
Good luck!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Bertsch" <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 196 problem
>
> Both Bryan Jones and I have a the same problem with our Garmin 196:
>
> we have the GPS connected to onboard power, but the batteries keep going
dead after a short period of time, even though we are not using them on
battery power. I have also found a pilot on the Beechlist who has the same
problem.
>
> Is there anyone else on the RV-list experiencing this?
>
> Jeff Bertsch
> lonestarsquadron.com
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions? |
The answer to both of your questions is yes. You can get updated Operating
lImitations from your local FSDO. Fill out a new FAA Form 8130-6
(downloadable), and take it with your existing Airworthiness Certificate and
Operating Lmitations, and your Airframe logbook. They will issue you new
ones.
The regs don't say where or how you have to keep your logs, just that you
must have them. I think I would recommend printing out any new entries at
each annual condition inspection. That way if you do lose your harddrive
you won't lose everything. But, yes, it is legal.
Mike R.
>From: Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions?
>Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2005 17:49:36 -0500
>
>
>Interesting.
>
>1. Is it possible to have individual Operating Limitations
>changed/reissued by the local FSDO so that I don't have to receive
>approval for changes prior actually making them?
>
>2. On a different tangent, but want to ask while I am thinking about
>paperwork: I have been keeping airframe and powerplant logs in an
>Excel spreadsheet. Is this acceptable? I suppose I could transcribe
>them into the logbook if necessary. I keep external paper documents
>in a binder, and make a reference to them in the spreadsheet; for
>example, my prop balance entry has the verbage for having a propeller
>balanced, see spectrum analysis plot dated blah blah blah in the
>powerplant binder. I figure when I go to sell the airplane I could
>print the logs out and sign each entry...
>
>Regards,
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
>
>
> wrote:
> >
> > It depends on what you Operating Limitations state for a major change.
> > Changing to the electronic ignition from Slick Mags is definitely a
>major
> > change. If you have the early limitations you will have to contact your
> > local FSDO prior to making the change. A DAR cannot do this one. If
>you
> > have newer limitations that allow you to do the major change yourself,
>then
> > you make a log entry stating what you've done, place the aircraft back
>into
> > Phase one for a mimimum of five hours, and go fly the test flights until
> > either five hours is up and you are satisfied it is safe, or you must
>keep
> > flying after the five hours until you are satisfied with the
>performance.
> > After you are done with the test flight you make another log entry
>placing
> > the aircraft back into phase two. If you have the newest limitations
>you
> > must contact the FSDO for concurrence on the test flight area. They can
>do
> > that via telephone and FAX. You are not getting permission to make the
> > change, just getting concurrence on the test flight area.
> >
> > Any mor equestions give me a shout.
> >
> > Mike R.
> >
> > >From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic
>ignitions?
> > >Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 02:44:17 EST
> > >
> > >
> > >To Mike Robertson-
> > >
> > >Mike-
> > >
> > >When changing out the ignition system (OEM Slick magnetos) to
>electronic
> > >(two new P-mags), must I or how do I approach the FAA or my DAR (Dave
> > >Morss)?
> > >
> > >Is this considered a major modification to my RV-6A and do I have to
>take
> > >it
> > >back into testing mode? I expect to get the P-mag installation
>completed
> > >next week but want to ensure that all is properly done paperwork wise
>and
> > >legal.
> > >
> > >Thanks in advance.
> > >
> > >
> > >GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
I've gotten a LOT of email asking about my video setup -- what type of
camera I use, how it's mounted, what frame rate, etc. Here's what little
info I have: http://www.rvproject.com/videos.html
It's not a fancy setup at all. Poor man's video...but I'm happy with it!
;-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: video camera |
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> I've gotten a LOT of email asking about my video setup -- what type of
> camera I use, how it's mounted, what frame rate, etc. Here's what little
> info I have: http://www.rvproject.com/videos.html
>
> It's not a fancy setup at all. Poor man's video...but I'm happy with it!
> ;-)
Dan, the videos look great; it is amazing what can be done with the
little digital cameras and desktop editing.
One enhancement you might consider is an auxiliary wide-angle lens. This
would include more of the plane and *really* make the viewer feel like
they are riding with you. The lens screws onto the camera lens via the
filter threads. It will also take care of any focus problems since the
huge depth of field of the extreme wide-angle will have everything in focus.
Here is a link to a clip I made in the StalkerV6 kit car using a Canon
ZR40 with a 0.43x auxiliary lens:
http://sambuchanan.com/stalker.wmv
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Empennage - HS-405 edge distance |
Alan,
I had the same problem on my -8 emp but can't remember if it was in the
exact same position. I reviewed everything and there seemed to be no way to
correct it and I couldn't find anything I'd done wrong.
After some thought I left the holes how they were and moved on. There are
no single "critical" rivets that I've seen yet. If only a few rivets out of
several thousand are less than perfect then I'm not worried.
Brett Morawski
8a wings
Toledo, OH
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
alan(at)reichertech.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Empennage - HS-405 edge distance
All,
I'm working on the RV-8 empennage. Reference drawing 3, you can see where
the HS-702, HS-405, and HS-801PP all overlap.
After drilling the skin to the skeleton and then disassembling, I notice
that the hole that goes through those three items does not meet minimum
edge distance on the HS-405 towards the front edge of the flange (both top
and bottom). This hole is the one that is in the seamed area of the
HS-405.
The holes in HS-702 are down the centerline of the flange, so I'm not sure
where the alignment problem is.
If I were to rebend the front and rear flanges of HS-405 slightly to shift
the web of HS-405 forward, then I start getting into the edge distance on
the top and bottom flanges at the rear end instead of the front.
Any thoughts on what's going on here? Has anyone else seen this, and if
so, how did you correct it?
--
Alan Reichert
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Building Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers
Message transport security by GatewayDefender.com
6:37:11 PM ET - 3/7/2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions? |
I haven't been reading all of the messages on this subject, but I do
remember reading something on the Ellison site about making log book entries
for modification that was very interesting... I suggest everyone read it...
The first thing your insurance company is going to do if you have an
accident or incident is try to find a reason not to pay...
http://www.ellison-fluid-systems.com/homebuilt_court_decision.htm
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions?
The answer to both of your questions is yes. You can get updated Operating
lImitations from your local FSDO. Fill out a new FAA Form 8130-6
(downloadable), and take it with your existing Airworthiness Certificate and
Operating Lmitations, and your Airframe logbook. They will issue you new
ones.
The regs don't say where or how you have to keep your logs, just that you
must have them. I think I would recommend printing out any new entries at
each annual condition inspection. That way if you do lose your harddrive
you won't lose everything. But, yes, it is legal.
Mike R.
>From: Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic ignitions?
>Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2005 17:49:36 -0500
>
>
>Interesting.
>
>1. Is it possible to have individual Operating Limitations
>changed/reissued by the local FSDO so that I don't have to receive
>approval for changes prior actually making them?
>
>2. On a different tangent, but want to ask while I am thinking about
>paperwork: I have been keeping airframe and powerplant logs in an
>Excel spreadsheet. Is this acceptable? I suppose I could transcribe
>them into the logbook if necessary. I keep external paper documents
>in a binder, and make a reference to them in the spreadsheet; for
>example, my prop balance entry has the verbage for having a propeller
>balanced, see spectrum analysis plot dated blah blah blah in the
>powerplant binder. I figure when I go to sell the airplane I could
>print the logs out and sign each entry...
>
>Regards,
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
>
>
> wrote:
> >
> > It depends on what you Operating Limitations state for a major change.
> > Changing to the electronic ignition from Slick Mags is definitely a
>major
> > change. If you have the early limitations you will have to contact your
> > local FSDO prior to making the change. A DAR cannot do this one. If
>you
> > have newer limitations that allow you to do the major change yourself,
>then
> > you make a log entry stating what you've done, place the aircraft back
>into
> > Phase one for a mimimum of five hours, and go fly the test flights until
> > either five hours is up and you are satisfied it is safe, or you must
>keep
> > flying after the five hours until you are satisfied with the
>performance.
> > After you are done with the test flight you make another log entry
>placing
> > the aircraft back into phase two. If you have the newest limitations
>you
> > must contact the FSDO for concurrence on the test flight area. They can
>do
> > that via telephone and FAX. You are not getting permission to make the
> > change, just getting concurrence on the test flight area.
> >
> > Any mor equestions give me a shout.
> >
> > Mike R.
> >
> > >From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Major or Minor Modification for electronic
>ignitions?
> > >Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 02:44:17 EST
> > >
> > >
> > >To Mike Robertson-
> > >
> > >Mike-
> > >
> > >When changing out the ignition system (OEM Slick magnetos) to
>electronic
> > >(two new P-mags), must I or how do I approach the FAA or my DAR (Dave
> > >Morss)?
> > >
> > >Is this considered a major modification to my RV-6A and do I have to
>take
> > >it
> > >back into testing mode? I expect to get the P-mag installation
>completed
> > >next week but want to ensure that all is properly done paperwork wise
>and
> > >legal.
> > >
> > >Thanks in advance.
> > >
> > >
> > >GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor, Hartzell CS Prop |
Tony,
On my MT governor the inside face of the actuating arm is saw toothed, and
mates up with the bush on the shaft.
It is just a matter of removing the arm, adjust the angle, and reattach,
making sure the saw tooths are allined
Stan
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 15:47:01
Subject: RV-List: Prop Governor, Hartzell CS Prop
The flatter pitch (high rpm) setting on my governor results in the actuating
arm on the governor moving to too acute an angle versus the cable end....if
this makes sense. I actually need a few more rpms, but further stop
adjustment makes the angle so acute that the cable binds a bit. What I would
like to do is to remove the actuating arm and turn it ten degree or so,
reinstalling the arm, then readjust the cable. It looks as if the governor
shaft is splined and that removal of the actuating arm should be rather
simple. This is an "on plane" adjustment and the work area tight. Any
surprises awaiting me in there? Is it as simple as just removing loosening
the arm retaining bolt, turning the arm the desired amount then reinstalling
the bolt?....then readjusting the cable?
This forum is a great resource....your experience will be appreciated.
tony marshall
rv6
polson, mt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: Major or Minor Modification |
for electronic ignitions?
On the subject of major mods and operating limitations:
I have the older operating limitations (requiring FSDO blessing for any
"major change.") I am replacing my wood Sterba experimental prop with a
wood core, fiberglass covered Catto experimental prop. Weight is about
the same, and both are fixed pitch, experimental props. According to a
local FAA inspector (who deals with a lot of homebuilts and whose
opinion is widely respected around these parts) this does not constitute
a "major change" and no new certificate is required, nor is any phase 1
time.
This strikes me as a bit odd. What do you think, Mike, or anybody else
who knows?
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Empennage - HS-405 edge distance |
| From: | alan(at)reichertech.com |
<20050308044712.XNOL2476.lakermmtao12.cox.net@DJTM4T61>
I see some replies on this item this morning, thanks. I also decided to
call Van's last night after I realized they are 3 hours behind me. Talked
with Ken on this. He knew exactly what I was talking about, and said it
was not an issue. My edge distance is 1 diameter. He said this is caused
by the seam "joggle" that is in that flange near the front to get the
flange to fit inside HS-702. The idea at that point is to attach the skin
to the spar. Catching part of the flange with less than normal distance
is fine for that rivet.
So, with that emergency aside, I'll move on! I'll finish off the right
side HS tonight, then I get to prep/prime/assemble the HS and VS.
- Alan (I guess now would be a good time to order the wing kit...)
>
>
> All,
>
> I'm working on the RV-8 empennage. Reference drawing 3, you can see
where
> the HS-702, HS-405, and HS-801PP all overlap.
>
> After drilling the skin to the skeleton and then disassembling, I notice
that the hole that goes through those three items does not meet minimum
edge distance on the HS-405 towards the front edge of the flange (both top
> and bottom). This hole is the one that is in the seamed area of the
HS-405.
>
> The holes in HS-702 are down the centerline of the flange, so I'm not
sure
> where the alignment problem is.
>
> If I were to rebend the front and rear flanges of HS-405 slightly to
shift
> the web of HS-405 forward, then I start getting into the edge distance
on
> the top and bottom flanges at the rear end instead of the front.
>
> Any thoughts on what's going on here? Has anyone else seen this, and if
so, how did you correct it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spinner air dam?? |
>
>
>I have seen many spinners, all aluminum I think, with small air flow
>deflectors that allow for a smooth air deflection from the spinner to
>the prop. This is easy enough to do on a fiberglass spinner but I wonder
>if it is really all that helpful. More for moisture? More for strength
>at that location? I dunno much about props/spinners other than they are
>a total mystery, kinda like insurance:-)
>
>Any thoughts on that fellas?
If we are talking about the same thing, the ones I've seen look like
a narrow flange on the spinner where the blade cutouts are. I have
always assumed they were to add strength. The airflow is going to be
so churned up in that area that I can't imagine what you could do
that would improve performance. I think you are just adding weight
and build time if you try to do anything there.
Just my opinion.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: Major or Minor |
Modification for electronic ignitions?
This just points up the regional differences between FSDOs. Some claim it
all prop changes to a different prop are major, some obviously don't. Go
with want your FSDO says.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: Major or
Minor Modification for electronic ignitions?
>
> On the subject of major mods and operating limitations:
>
> I have the older operating limitations (requiring FSDO blessing for any
> "major change.") I am replacing my wood Sterba experimental prop with a
> wood core, fiberglass covered Catto experimental prop. Weight is about
> the same, and both are fixed pitch, experimental props. According to a
> local FAA inspector (who deals with a lot of homebuilts and whose
> opinion is widely respected around these parts) this does not constitute
> a "major change" and no new certificate is required, nor is any phase 1
> time.
>
> This strikes me as a bit odd. What do you think, Mike, or anybody else
> who knows?
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
February 28, 2005 - March 08, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-qo