RV-Archive.digest.vol-qq
March 14, 2005 - March 20, 2005
> >not one of my concerns. I intend to use an 1/3 RC servo to push a rod
which
> >in turn pushes a tab on the aileron bell crank - so no additional mass
out
> >on the control surface. So perhaps other problems, but don't expect
flutter
> >to be one of them.
> >
> >Great seeing you again at the Flyin and Tracy's Finn.
> >
> >Hope you get back from your trip to make it to Sun & Fun.
> >
> >Made it back to Charlotte from Tracy's in 2 hours 45 minutes, so even had
a
> >small tail wind component to help this day.
> >
> >Ed
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
I must have missed Bob's hints . . . did they come through the list?
Please point me in the proper direction.
Thanks,
Bob - to be: RV-8 N678RC
wrote:
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> Thanks for the hints. A couple of hours of filing and they
> fit together fine. There is a bit of a gap between the
> forward part and the aft, and I've put a couple of strips
> of fiberglass on the forward half to help it fit better.
> It will probably need a couple more hours of sanding.
>
> I also ordered the Sam James DVD on how to do this stuff.
> I found the Ordorff cassettes helpful as well.
>
> Best regards,
> Mickey
>
> Oldsfolks(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Mickey;
> > I used a file to get a better fit between the two halves of the wheel
> > pants. A square or flat file will do.
> > I also used Poly-Fibre "Smooth Prime" to prime them . It goes on with a
> > small roller and you can push down to squish it into the pinholes in that
#$%
> > &*
> > fibre glas. A/C S has it in the glas & resins section of their catalog.
> > Mix small amounts since it goes a long way. It washes up with water and
sands
> > into lots of snow on the floor. A couple of coats usually takes care of
> > the pinholes.
> >
> > Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> > A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> > Charleston,Arkansas
> > Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
> >
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Laseter" <mlaseter(at)comcast.net> |
I use Mequiars Cleaner Wax. Only thing I have used for the last 10 years
now.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: RV-List: Got Wax?
After 4 years, I think the paint on my airplane has finally cured well
enough that it may be time for a wax job. Anyone got a recommendation for
the perfect wax? Inexpensive, easy to apply, and leaves a nice finish?
I'm hoping someone can recommend a good liquid wax. I simply don't have the
time or energy right now to use one of the paste waxes...
Thanks in advance,
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
But that is a trim tab. Surely that will be too small for a wing leveller?
Finn
Ed Anderson wrote:
>
>Finn,
>
>I believe that Van sells an electric aileron trim kit - undoubtedly the size
>tab it calls for would be a starting point. Someone on the list may have
>the diagram which shows the cut-out size.
>
>Ed
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> Pilots |
Pilots
Off the top of my head I would think the major disadvantage of a stepper
motor would be weight. Or if it is geared, I'm fairly sure that it will
offer some resistance even when not powered. That the driving
electronics is 4 or 6 or 8 or ? times more complex compared to just
driving a plain DC motor, may or may not be considered a disadvantage.
The more coils the higher the torque and the more drivers needed.
Finn
Ed Anderson wrote:
>
>Hi Doug,
>
>I am not that familiar with the details of stepper motors, although I do
>understand the concept. My question is what aspect of the stepper motor
>makes it better suited for this application? Does a stepper motor not
>offer "resistance" as does a servo without a clutch may do? Does a stepper
>motor provide "position" feed back? or does it already "know" (based on the
>command sent) what position it will be activated to reach.
>
>Ed Anderson
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
>To:
>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Guys, this is a great discussion. Please keep it online so we can all
>>
>>
>benefit.
>
>
>>I have dreams of doing the same myself when I am finished my RV-6.
>>
>>The stepper motor servo seems to be the most practical solution, saves
>>
>>
>building a clutched servo. A
>
>
>>stepper can be driven from buffered outputs from a microcontroller. I have
>>
>>
>done this myself for a
>
>
>>job many years ago but it didnt have the torque I had expected. Didn't get
>>
>>
>to the bottom of that at
>
>
>>the time. I would have anticipated quite a lot of drag for these.
>>
>>Also, the stepper motor could possibly be liberated from a dead printer.
>>
>>Approximatly how big is the tru-track(?) stepper? Can anyone glean a
>>
>>
>little more information.
>
>
>>Doug Gray
>>'6 Fuse, now off the jig.
>>
>>
>>Ed Anderson wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Hi Bill,
>>>
>>>Just got back from week end with Tracy and Laura Crook - great as
>>>
>>>
>always.
>
>
>>>Yes, I found some code for an "Inverted Pendulum" that looks like it
>>>
>>>
>will
>
>
>>>provide a basis for the PID code. They do some neat tricks with clock
>>>frequency and sampling rates to make the math (shifts) much quicker.
>>>
>>>Yes, the 1/3 scale model servos produce torque equal and greater than
>>>
>>>
>that
>
>
>>>shown in the autopilot specs on servos - so no problem there. However,
>>>
>>>
>I
>
>
>>>have not been able to find one with any type of clutch which as you
>>>
>>>
>indicate
>
>
>>>is desirable.
>>>
>>>My initial thoughts on that aspect of the problem is to have the servo
>>>
>>>
>push
>
>
>>>a rod that goes through a hole in a tab attached to aileron bell crank.
>>>
>>>
>The
>
>
>>>rod would have springs on both sides of the tab (conceptually similar to
>>>Van's elCheapo spring trim system which I use in my RV-6A). However,
>>>
>>>
>there
>
>
>>>are some problems with that concept, so don't know if that would work,
>>>
>>>
>but
>
>
>>>might be worth a try. On the otherhand adapting a magnetic clutch might
>>>
>>>
>be
>
>
>>>a more elegant way to go.
>>>
>>>Thanks for the suggestions
>>>
>>>Ed
>>>
>>>Ed Anderson
>>>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>>>Matthews, NC
>>>eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
>>>To:
>>>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>
>
>
>>>>>I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing leveler.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>I
>
>
>>>>>have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>(PSPICE)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>approach
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers more
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>move
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a bit
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>much.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited growth
>>>>>capability.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any other
>>>>embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system and
>>>>you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will start
>>>>>
>>>>>
>out
>
>
>>>as
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe
>>>>>
>>>>>
>that
>
>
>>>a
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best bet
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>(and
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two control
>>>>>loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to your
>>>>>
>>>>>
>set
>
>
>>>>>heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement this
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>would
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be compared
>>>>>
>>>>>
>to
>
>
>>>>>the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would
>>>>>
>>>>>
>generate
>
>
>>>a
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>roll rate command which would end up driving the servo.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to the
>>>>
>>>>
>>>inner
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the
>>>>
>>>>
>heading
>
>
>>>>input. Easier to do digitally, by the way.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> A small difference
>>>>>in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference a
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>faster
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously
>>>>>
>>>>>
>quite
>
>
>>>a
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the general
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>idea.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale
>>>>>
>>>>>
>model
>
>
>>>>>aircraft servo.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to
>>>>
>>>>
>>>clutch
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>the servo to allow manual over-ride?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
Ed is correct in that there is an offering from Van's. It calls for **NO**
additional tab.
The kit became available some time around the advent of the RV7 or RV9.
As it turns out, I had designed a center console/throttle quadrant for the
RV6A I am building. As a result I had to have electric aileron trim. So I
came up with a design for that.
When I was about to start trying to build it, I discovered the offering from
Van's which was VERY similar to what I had planned to do. The design uses an
Allen trim servo to bias the standard trim bias springs that are installed
for manual trim. It moves the trim "lever" (which gets put UNDER the floor
pan) for you. I ordered the kit and made some mods to it so it would work in
my RV6A. I am not flying yet, but this seems to be the best way (effective
and cost effective) to accomplish electric trim.
James
{SNIP}
|
| Finn,
|
| I believe that Van sells an electric aileron trim kit - undoubtedly the
| size
| tab it calls for would be a starting point. Someone on the list may have
| the diagram which shows the cut-out size.
|
| Ed
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Switch Problem |
Hi Cy,
Did you try turning completely to the right and then push in?
No, but I will try this.
The wiring diagram is in the Aircraft Spruce Catalog.
Got it and it confirms I wired it correct minus the ground to #5
If you go to the starter solenoid. Does the starter engage if you apply
power to the starter terminal. If it has two small terminals, sometimes the
2nd one has to grounded.
I did apply power and the starter did bump. However my start solenoid has
two primary terminals - one for power and one for ground. Another lister
suggested it *might* need ground to operate. I can wire it either way. It
is currently wired for power to activate. But no power off switch, at least
not right now.
Thanks for your input
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Return springs on throttle and mixture |
My Technical Counselor requested that I put return springs on the
carburetor-throttle and mixture-control arms of my Lycoming O320. Does
anybody on this list have pictures of such an installation that they
could send me?
Leland
RV9A, Pitot/Static testing this morning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Plecenik" <nanchang(at)zipnet.us> |
Last week, someone wrote that Aircraft Spruce gave a discount to AOPA members.
I just called them and was told this is NOT true, only dealer discounts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | More On lost power on takeopff |
Thanks everyone for the responses. I am subsc to digest only to keep box from overflowing
so get each morn. my 6a has run Mogas since built, and have gotten
direct responses from Mogas burners that it is vaporlock problem, along with tips
on how to avoid it. My gas lines are insulated, but I think some way of diverting
some air to the fuel pump and carb would be a good idea. any sugestions?
charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: ACS Discount |
I was misquoted/misconstrued/missomethinged. What I said was get the AOPA 5% discount
by ordering from ACS...
Folks aren't taking advantage of AOPA's rebate program? Shame one you ;-) I'm
going to tell your wive's/husband/'s... :-)
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> Last week, someone wrote that Aircraft Spruce gave a discount to AOPA members.
I
> just called them and was told this is NOT true, only dealer discounts.
>
>
>
>
>
>
I was misquoted/misconstrued/missomethinged. What I said was get the AOPA 5% discount
by ordering from ACS...
Folks aren't taking advantage of AOPA's rebate program? Shame one you ;-) I'm going
to tell your wive's/husband/'s... :-)
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Mike Plecenik"
Last week, someone wrote that Aircraft Spruce gave a discount to AOPA members.
I
just called them and was told this is NOT true, only dealer discounts.
_- List FAQ: http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ACS Discount |
Okay, Lucky: don't tell my wife/accountant, but tell me more, please. I've never
known about this rebate.
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | White Letters for Panel |
I made some labels for my panel with a P-Touch. They are beginning to fade. The
lamination can
wear off over time. This happened in about a year on my cell phone.
--- SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> The Brother P-Touch machine I have uses laminated tapes; I doubt they'd ever
wear off.
>
> -Stormy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ACS Discount |
Lucky,
That was as clear as mud. Please expand on your answer.
Charlie Kuss
>
>I was misquoted/misconstrued/missomethinged. What I said was get the AOPA
>5% discount by ordering from ACS...
>
>Folks aren't taking advantage of AOPA's rebate program? Shame one
>you ;-) I'm going to tell your wive's/husband/'s... :-)
>
>Lucky
>
>-------------- Original message --------------
>
> >
> > Last week, someone wrote that Aircraft Spruce gave a discount to AOPA
> members. I
> > just called them and was told this is NOT true, only dealer discounts.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>I was misquoted/misconstrued/missomethinged. What I said was get the AOPA
>5% discount by ordering from ACS...
>
>Folks aren't taking advantage of AOPA's rebate program? Shame one you ;-)
>I'm going to tell your wive's/husband/'s... :-)
>
>Lucky
>
>-------------- Original message --------------
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: "Mike Plecenik"
>
> Last week, someone wrote that Aircraft Spruce gave a discount to AOPA
> members. I
> just called them and was told this is NOT true, only dealer discounts.
>
>
> _- List FAQ: http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
Finn, I guess I mis-understood, I thought you were considering the use of a
movable trim tab to do the control job which of course permit use of a much
smaller motor than pushing/pulling the aileron bell crank.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cheap Navaid servo for sale?
>
> But that is a trim tab. Surely that will be too small for a wing leveller?
>
> Finn
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
>
> >
> >Finn,
> >
> >I believe that Van sells an electric aileron trim kit - undoubtedly the
size
> >tab it calls for would be a starting point. Someone on the list may have
> >the diagram which shows the cut-out size.
> >
> >Ed
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: ACS Discount |
http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/newsitems/2005/050131rebate.html
hopefully this is enough to get you going in the right direction. ACS is on the
list of places that the 5% rebate is offered. Order from ACS using the aopa
credit card and you get 5% back. Too bad Van's isn't on the list....
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> Okay, Lucky: don't tell my wife/accountant, but tell me more, please. I've
> never known about this rebate.
>
> -Stormy
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/newsitems/2005/050131rebate.html
hopefully this is enough to get you going in the right direction. ACS is on the
list of places that the 5% rebate is offered. Order from ACS using the aopa credit
card and you get 5% back. Too bad Van's isn't on the list....
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Okay, Lucky: don't tell my wife/accountant, but tell me more, please. I've
never known about this rebate.
-Stormy
Q/RV-List.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: White Letters for Panel |
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
>
>I made some labels for my panel with a P-Touch. They are beginning to fade.
The lamination can
>wear off over time. This happened in about a year on my cell phone.
>
>--- SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>>
>>The Brother P-Touch machine I have uses laminated tapes; I doubt they'd ever
wear off.
>>
>>-Stormy
>>
>>
>>
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
They are probably not wearing off, it is probably sunlight that is
causing the fade. There is a outer tape covering the lettering. This
tape is pretty tough stuff. Mine are black and are not fading yet.
But I will keep close watch on it. Then there is a guy up in New
England who does lettering on the back side, in reverse and it is really
cool stuff. I think he wanted about $60 to do mine with about as much
letering as you could cram into a 14" by 3" switch and breaker panel.
This is what I want to ultimately go with after I get all changes made.
Phil in Illinois...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Van's Belt Buckles |
A few notes from some customers. Check them out at: http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
I couldn't be happier - how about doing an RV-9A buckle. I'll be your first customer!!
Thanks, Andy
Glenn, My RV Buckle just arrived......It's perfect! The pictures don't do it justice
as the finish has just the right amount of shine.
Thanks, Tom
Looks great, will be showing it off at a fly-in
lunch tomorrow. thx, Bill
Hello Glenn! I've received the buckle-- GREAT JOB!! It looks great!! I love
it!! Thanks!!! Danny RV9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Return springs on throttle and mixture |
I just drilled a small hole in the top of fab and hooked a spring into it.
The other end went around my mixture arm. I think that would qualify. Same
goes for throttle but I didnt put one there. Not really sure why you would
want one on your throttle.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland" <federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Return springs on throttle and mixture
>
> My Technical Counselor requested that I put return springs on the
> carburetor-throttle and mixture-control arms of my Lycoming O320. Does
> anybody on this list have pictures of such an installation that they
> could send me?
> Leland
> RV9A, Pitot/Static testing this morning
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lost power on takeoff again |
In a message dated 3/13/05 4:46:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net writes:
<< Charlie,
Check your primer system. If you have not already ruled this out. Leaking
primer pump or valve can cause the richer than normal condition.
Mike Mckenna
>>
Charlie: Mike has a good thought here. FWIW, a local RV-6A guy using
one of the electric primer valves from Aircraft Spruce recently discovered
that the valve was jammed open. Nothing he could do would get it to close.
Worth checking if you are using a similar set up (which I am BTW and have no
problems so far in only 45 hours).
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zeidman, Richard B" <richard.b.zeidman(at)boeing.com> |
Listers,
Due to heat lamp damage, my slider portion of my canopy has a distortion
on the passenger side. I was hopeing someone bought a canopy to replace
the windsheild portion because of a bird strike and did not use the
slider portion and would be interested in selling it. My canopy was
recieved from Vans in 1999. I understand different vintage canopies are
different configurations.
Thanks for any help or ideas.
Rich Zeidman
RV6A N42RZ
745 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
No misunderstanding. However, in my mind a 4" x 3/4" (estimate) tab
isn't going to cut it for a wing leveler.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't a wing leveler have to be
able to command a much bigger change than a trim function does? For
example if a wing drops suddenly because of turbulence.
Also consider that it would be nice if it would work in slow flight.
Finn
Ed Anderson wrote:
>
>Finn, I guess I mis-understood, I thought you were considering the use of a
>movable trim tab to do the control job which of course permit use of a much
>smaller motor than pushing/pulling the aileron bell crank.
>
>Ed
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Finn Lassen" <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net>
>To: "ax; PROMO"
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cheap Navaid servo for sale?
>
>
>
>
>>
>>But that is a trim tab. Surely that will be too small for a wing leveller?
>>
>>Finn
>>
>>Ed Anderson wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Finn,
>>>
>>>I believe that Van sells an electric aileron trim kit - undoubtedly the
>>>
>>>
>size
>
>
>>>tab it calls for would be a starting point. Someone on the list may have
>>>the diagram which shows the cut-out size.
>>>
>>>Ed
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Return springs on throttle and mixture |
Leland wrote:
>
> My Technical Counselor requested that I put return springs on the
> carburetor-throttle and mixture-control arms of my Lycoming O320. Does
> anybody on this list have pictures of such an installation that they
> could send me?
> Leland
> RV9A, Pitot/Static testing this morning
Here is a link with a photo of a return spring on the mixture arm
(scroll about 1/3 down the page):
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/engine4.html
If memory serves me, there is already a spring on the throttle that
pulls it open. The spring may be weak if the carb has a bunch of hours
on it.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines |
I built my own engine. I built a basic O-360 parallel valve with aft prop govenor.
I then put on it a IO-360-A1A 200hp oil sump, and on it put the forward
facing (horizontal) Bendix fuel servo, and then converted the engine to fuel injection
with Bendix flow divider and Airflow Performance spider lines and injectors
(Airflow Performance overhauled both the fuel servo and flow divider and
flow checked the system). I have 720 hrs of trouble free flying with it. Lycoming
then can out with their IO-360-M1B which is basically the same engine.
So, if you find a good O-360, you can convert it to the IO-360-M1AorB, and get
the advantages of cold air, tuned induction and use the snorkle with slick
cowl without the extra 30lbs of weight of the IO-360-A1A.
Stu McCurdy
RV-8, Flying
From: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
Thanks for the info it all helps alot.
Ok so to keep the headaches down to a minimum I should really be looking for
the M1B. I think this is a fairly new engine though and I suspect there
won't be many out there on the used market.
Larry you made some very good points about whether I want and need an
inverted system. Now that it has been pointed out that I can do all I want
to do with a standard no inverted system I'll probably drop the inverted
bit.
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
I built my own engine. I built a basic O-360 parallel valve with aft prop govenor.
I then put on it a IO-360-A1A 200hp oil sump, and on it put the forward facing
(horizontal) Bendix fuel servo, and then converted the engine to fuel injection
with Bendix flow divider and Airflow Performance spider lines and injectors
(Airflow Performance overhauled both the fuel servo and flow divider and
flow checked the system). I have 720 hrs of trouble free flying with it. Lycoming
then can out with their IO-360-M1B whichis basically the same engine. So,
if you find a good O-360, you can convert it to the IO-360-M1AorB, and get the
advantages of cold air, tuned induction and use the snorkle with slick cowl without
the extra 30lbs of weight of the IO-360-A1A.
Stu McCurdy
RV-8, Flying
From: "Kevin Williams" kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Confused about IO-360 180hp engines.
-- RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com
Thanks for the info it all helps alot.
Ok so to keep the headaches down to a minimum I should really be looking for
the M1B. I think this is a fairly new engine though and I suspect there
won't be many out there on the used market.
Larry you made some very good points about whether I
want and need an
inverted system. Now that it has been pointed out that I can do all I want
to do with a standard no inverted system I'll probably drop the inverted
bit.
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Displaying Airworthiness Cert. |
Howdy!
Working on the interior of my -6A and need to find a permanent resting place
for the pink slip, so I'm looking for some ideas how to handle this so it
looks nice, is relatively out of the way, but still meets FAR 91.203:"...displayed
at the cabin or cockpit entrance so that it is legible to passengers or
crew." Apparently the registration and operating limitations (all 5 pages),
Program Letter, Phase 1 test area description (copy of sectional) and W&B must
be
aboard, but not in view, but the whole package is stapled to the pink slip,
which has a note on the bottom "SEE ATTACHED OPERATING LIMITATIONS". So I'm
guessing I can't separate the other stuff from the pink slip and have to figure
out
some way to stuff everything into some kind of nice display case for
attachment in the cockpit somewhere. Could some of y'all let me know how you did
it
(off-list or links to fotos would be great!)
Also, CAN the op-lims & other stuff be separated from the pink slip so it can
be "framed" and displayed by itself? The op-lims, W&B & other stuff could go
in a zip-lock along with the POH (oops- Airplane Flight Manual!) and stuck in
the glove locker?
Thanks!
Mark Phillips N51PW, 155 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Displaying Airworthiness Cert. |
I just used one of those automobile registration holders. I glued it to the side
of the cockpit
in my RV-4. I stuck all the other paperwork in behind it so the Airworthiness
Cert is all you
see. The RV-6 guys on the field seem to put just above their baggage compartment.
--- Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Howdy!
>
> Working on the interior of my -6A and need to find a permanent resting place
> for the pink slip, so I'm looking for some ideas how to handle this so it
> looks nice, is relatively out of the way, but still meets FAR 91.203:"...displayed
> at the cabin or cockpit entrance so that it is legible to passengers or
> crew." Apparently the registration and operating limitations (all 5 pages),
> Program Letter, Phase 1 test area description (copy of sectional) and W&B must
be
> aboard, but not in view, but the whole package is stapled to the pink slip,
> which has a note on the bottom "SEE ATTACHED OPERATING LIMITATIONS". So I'm
> guessing I can't separate the other stuff from the pink slip and have to figure
out
> some way to stuff everything into some kind of nice display case for
> attachment in the cockpit somewhere. Could some of y'all let me know how you
did it
> (off-list or links to fotos would be great!)
>
> Also, CAN the op-lims & other stuff be separated from the pink slip so it can
> be "framed" and displayed by itself? The op-lims, W&B & other stuff could go
> in a zip-lock along with the POH (oops- Airplane Flight Manual!) and stuck in
> the glove locker?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mark Phillips N51PW, 155 hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
| Subject: | Lost power on takeoff again |
Charles,
This sounds like a the problem I've been having recently. I'm running two
electronic ignitions
with automotive spark plugs (Autolite 386 plugs). On full power take off
climbs, I'd loose power
to the point the engine wouldn't keep the aircraft in the air. After several
instances, trying all
the emergency procedures (fuel pump ON, primer, switch tanks, full mixture)
I found that I
could always restore power by pulling the mixture to engine cut-off,
counting to three, and
then full mixture again.
It turns out that the automotive spark plugs (even new ones) were getting
so hot that it
melted the porcelain. I suspect that it then acted like a glow plug,
igniting the raw fuel on
the intake stroke for that cylinder, and back firing into the intake
manifold, causing ALL
cylinders to be effected. Shutting off the fuel put out the glow plug.
I've recently installed Autolite REM43BY plugs and not had another
instance of the
problem in the last 15 Hrs of flight. Also, EGT & CHT temps have changed
dramatically
in all phases of flight. I'm now trying to data log those differences......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
371 Hrs
Time:
From: "Charles Heathco" < cheathco(at)comcast.net
>
Subject: Lost power on takeoff again
cheathco(at)comcast.net >
I replaced the carb with OH unit, and this morn had the same failure,
lost power
4-5 sec into takeoff run. pulled the mixture control to about where it
is at
cruise and it started running again. I ran up and did mag checks
couple times
with mix at norm and it was ok. I had made two flights after carb
change before
this with no problem. One common thing between this and when it
happened before
I swapped carb, is it was much warmer than usual both times, and it
was following
a long taxie both times as well. Any Ideas? (cut short a very nice
morn
for flying) charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | competition for Airnav? |
http://www.xcpilot.com/airport/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>No misunderstanding. However, in my mind a 4" x 3/4" (estimate) tab
>isn't going to cut it for a wing leveler.
>Please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't a wing leveler have to be
>able to command a much bigger change than a trim function does? For
>example if a wing drops suddenly because of turbulence.
>Also consider that it would be nice if it would work in slow flight.
>
>Finn
>
snipped
The tab I had on the Thorp was very small, probably 1" x 4" - 5". It was
attached with nylon r/c plane hinges to the trailing edge of the aileron
(not cut into the aileron) & the servo was imbedded in the aileron. It
was pretty much an r/c plane aileron & servo grafted into the T-18
aileron. If I had done it myself I might have used regular piano hinge &
just increased the chord a bit with another sheet of AL but the mass of
the tab would go up quickly doing that.
Control authority: Consider the ratio of aileron area to wing area & run
the ratio numbers for tab to aileron or the elevator tab to total
elevator area. Remember, all the tab has to move is the aileron; the
aileron will move the wing.
You could fly my Thorp with the little 'volume control' on the panel.
The same tab served as roll trim & autopilot control servo tab (both
functions in one electronics box). Remember, all the tab has to move is
the aileron; the aileron will move the wing.
The potential downside to the r/c servo (probably applies to Van's
elevator trim motor too unless the geartrain is a worm drive) is that
without power it is free to move on its own. My concern would only kick
in if the tab had enough mass to damage the aileron in a no-power,
flapping in the breeze situation.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Navaid servo for sale? |
probably applies to Van's
elevator trim motor too unless the geartrain is a worm drive
Yep, the Menzheimer/Allen trim servos are worm drive. Nothing flaps around in
there.
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Van's seat patterns |
Hi,
Does anyone have any experience with buying the Van's
seat foams and patterns, and making their own seats?
Are the patterns *really* that good? They want about
40 bucks for them by themselves.
I've never sewn, but I have ironed a patch on my jeans,
so I guess I'm qualified. :-)
I've seen several companies on the web that make nice
seats, I just want to see if I can do it myself.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Need known good mag |
I have deceided to go with one mag and one electronic for now on my RV6a, and both
my mags are old and fear they are near end of service. I wonder if anyone
might have a known good mag laying around from an elec conversion they want o
sell. I now have bendix, could convert if have the wiring. my engine is O-320E2A
Charlie heathco, reply to mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All, I'm fighting tooth and nail trying to resist buying the $780 system 6 strobe
unit from vans. I am looking at getting some recycled nav lights, and just
installing nova-type strobes. I know the regulations for night flight are somewhat
specific in the visibility of the strobes, and I had a few questions:
* Assuming I go with a 3 strobe scenario (wingtips and tail), is it a problem
if the strobe head is on the forward facing portion of the sheared wingtip (nav
light would be on portion parallel to fuselage)?* For those using the NOVA supply,
what is the preferred output (60, 80, or 90)?* Anyone with a "seasoned"
similar setup care to comment on the reliability of the NOVA solution (as opposed
to Whelan)? Thanks,Scott7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Wheel pants fairing |
I would like to get the wheel pants fairings that Bob S has, but I have no experience
with fiberglass and they have to be put on each 1/2 of the pants. I am
reasonably skilled if I know what I am doing. Anybody done this on their plane?
mine is 6A. charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cutter" <rcutter(at)cupower.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Lighting |
Funny you should ask! Just last week I was wondering the same thing and
other thoughts. I emailed Jeff Argersinger, Sales and Marketing Manager for
Whelen Aviaition Dept. Rather than emailing back a lot of info, he CALLED
ME! We had a long discussion of FAA regs and the products that Whelen
offers. It is my understanding that there are some people that use strobes
mounted on experimental aircraft that DO NOT meet the FARs. Knowing that I
am adding strobes to my RV4 to be seen and not JUST BE LEGAL, I have opted
to do additional work to make that happen. FYI, I had bought a partially
built -4 and having to undo work that had been completed to add strobes for
my satisfaction. It would have been much easier and lots cheaper to go
another route, but for me (and I am THRIFTY), choose to go the full route.
Now, all that being said, if I needed to buy everything from scratch, I
would probably get the NOVA AVI-PAK. $ for $ I think it is a better deal.
I do appreciate all the info Jeff gave me and he is a wonderful guy to talk
with. I was reading info from their website and he told me he wrote it! I
knew I had gotten the right guy. Try contacting Jeff and I am sure he will
give you lots of good info.
Robert Cutter
RVRC
finishing wings and some fuselage done
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Strobe Lighting
>
> All, I'm fighting tooth and nail trying to resist buying the $780 system 6
> strobe unit from vans. I am looking at getting some recycled nav lights,
> and just installing nova-type strobes. I know the regulations for night
> flight are somewhat specific in the visibility of the strobes, and I had a
> few questions: * Assuming I go with a 3 strobe scenario (wingtips and
> tail), is it a problem if the strobe head is on the forward facing portion
> of the sheared wingtip (nav light would be on portion parallel to
> fuselage)?* For those using the NOVA supply, what is the preferred output
> (60, 80, or 90)?* Anyone with a "seasoned" similar setup care to comment
> on the reliability of the NOVA solution (as opposed to Whelan)?
> Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in USA |
I'm looking at possibly getting some serious builder assistance from a
fellow in the USA. I would be present and doing 90% of work.
Anyone know how this will affect my ability to complete the kit in Canada
considering that most of the airframe will have been inspected by US
inspectors. I honestly don't know how much I would get done down south but
I'm thinking between 75 - 95% again I would be present and hands on for the
entire building process.
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)alltel.net> |
Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every time I try
to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up when I try
to access the link to their email.
Ron Schreck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net> |
Hi Ed,
I enjoyed talking with you at Leeward's, I told you I was an Electronics Tech.
I am no expert but I have had some experience with stepper motors and servos.
I think you would find stepper motors and there drives to cause a lot of RF noise.
They move one step (say 2 deg/step) when commanded to. So command 100 steps
- move 200 deg rotation. Change rotation direction at will with command. The
higher their torque is, the harder it would be to overcome their commanded
position. So to override the stepper motor with manual control stick input could
be an undesirably high control stick force. The stepper motor itself does not
provide feedback. There are multiple ways to keep track of the position the
motor has moved it's load. Stepper circuits normally have a "Home" position switch
(such as neutral aileron stick position) then the controller or software
keeps track of the precision steps in both directions from "Home". With this
arrangement, if torque of stepper motor is exceeded,
the motor will stall or slip X number of uncommanded steps which would cause a
loss of position tracking. With an additional feedback circuit design (such as
a potentiometer or rheostat) you could keep track of the aileron deflection
degrees RT or LT slewing the stepper to the desired position (Move clockwise until
Aileron LT equals 5 degrees).
I believe the servo with clutch approach would be more simple, lighter, and less
prone to produce elec. noise.
Have fun,
Mike Mckenna
>
> From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
> Date: 2005/03/14 Mon AM 07:37:55 EST
> To:
> Subject: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>
>
> Hi Doug,
>
> I am not that familiar with the details of stepper motors, although I do
> understand the concept. My question is what aspect of the stepper motor
> makes it better suited for this application? Does a stepper motor not
> offer "resistance" as does a servo without a clutch may do? Does a stepper
> motor provide "position" feed back? or does it already "know" (based on the
> command sent) what position it will be activated to reach.
>
> Ed Anderson
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>
>
> >
> > Guys, this is a great discussion. Please keep it online so we can all
> benefit.
> >
> > I have dreams of doing the same myself when I am finished my RV-6.
> >
> > The stepper motor servo seems to be the most practical solution, saves
> building a clutched servo. A
> > stepper can be driven from buffered outputs from a microcontroller. I have
> done this myself for a
> > job many years ago but it didnt have the torque I had expected. Didn't get
> to the bottom of that at
> > the time. I would have anticipated quite a lot of drag for these.
> >
> > Also, the stepper motor could possibly be liberated from a dead printer.
> >
> > Approximatly how big is the tru-track(?) stepper? Can anyone glean a
> little more information.
> >
> > Doug Gray
> > '6 Fuse, now off the jig.
> >
> >
> > Ed Anderson wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Bill,
> > >
> > > Just got back from week end with Tracy and Laura Crook - great as
> always.
> > >
> > > Yes, I found some code for an "Inverted Pendulum" that looks like it
> will
> > > provide a basis for the PID code. They do some neat tricks with clock
> > > frequency and sampling rates to make the math (shifts) much quicker.
> > >
> > > Yes, the 1/3 scale model servos produce torque equal and greater than
> that
> > > shown in the autopilot specs on servos - so no problem there. However,
> I
> > > have not been able to find one with any type of clutch which as you
> indicate
> > > is desirable.
> > >
> > > My initial thoughts on that aspect of the problem is to have the servo
> push
> > > a rod that goes through a hole in a tab attached to aileron bell crank.
> The
> > > rod would have springs on both sides of the tab (conceptually similar to
> > > Van's elCheapo spring trim system which I use in my RV-6A). However,
> there
> > > are some problems with that concept, so don't know if that would work,
> but
> > > might be worth a try. On the otherhand adapting a magnetic clutch might
> be
> > > a more elegant way to go.
> > >
> > > Thanks for the suggestions
> > >
> > > Ed
> > >
> > > Ed Anderson
> > > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > > Matthews, NC
> > > eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>
> > >>
>
> > >>>
> > >>>I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing leveler.
> I
> > >>>have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation
> > >>
> > > (PSPICE)
> > >
> > >>>at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog
> > >>
> > > approach
> > >
> > >>>or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers more
> > >>
> > > move
> > >
> > >>>for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a bit
> > >>
> > > much.
> > >
> > >>>The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited growth
> > >>>capability.
> > >>
> > >> You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any other
> > >>embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system and
> > >>you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will start
> out
> > >>
> > > as
> > >
> > >>>an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe
> that
> > >>
> > > a
> > >
> > >>>Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best bet
> > >>
> > > (and
> > >
> > >>>least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two control
> > >>>loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to your
> set
> > >>>heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement this
> > >>
> > > would
> > >
> > >>>feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be compared
> to
> > >>>the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would
> generate
> > >>
> > > a
> > >
> > >>>roll rate command which would end up driving the servo.
> > >>
> > >> That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to the
> > >
> > > inner
> > >
> > >>loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the
> heading
> > >>input. Easier to do digitally, by the way.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> A small difference
> > >>>in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference a
> > >>
> > > faster
> > >
> > >>>roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously
> quite
> > >>
> > > a
> > >
> > >>>bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the general
> > >>
> > > idea.
> > >
> > >>>The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale
> model
> > >>>aircraft servo.
> > >>
> > >> Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to
> > >
> > > clutch
> > >
> > >>the servo to allow manual over-ride?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Lighting |
>
> All, I'm fighting tooth and nail trying to resist buying the $780 system
> 6 strobe unit from vans. I am looking at getting some recycled nav
> lights, and just installing nova-type strobes.
You might want to check out Bill VonDanes' lighting packages at:
http://www.creativair.com/cva/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder |
Ron
I have had this problem a few times, their fix is below.
Search your hard drive for the following files:
data*.xml
panel*.xml
The files may look like "data28.xml" (or some other number) and
"panel[1].xml" (or some other number).
You will probably find them in a folder called: "UserData" located in your
temporary internet files area.
Once you have located these flies DELETE THEM... This should take care of
your lockup problem,
but it will also delete the last panel you built that is currently being
saved...
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: epanelbuilder
>
> Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every
> time I try to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up
> when I try to access the link to their email.
>
> Ron Schreck
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> USA |
| Subject: | Re: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in |
USA
>
>I'm looking at possibly getting some serious builder assistance from a
>fellow in the USA. I would be present and doing 90% of work.
>
>Anyone know how this will affect my ability to complete the kit in Canada
>considering that most of the airframe will have been inspected by US
>inspectors. I honestly don't know how much I would get done down south but
>I'm thinking between 75 - 95% again I would be present and hands on for the
>entire building process.
>
The fact that you used builder assistance won't be a problem, as that
is now specifcally allowed in Canada. But I am almost certain that
you will need to have the inspections done by either Transport
Canada, or the MDRA inspectors.
The MDRA has been delegated to do inspections in Canada, so I
recommend that you contact them to discuss this:
http://www.md-ra.com/
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu> |
| Subject: | RVers near Alice Springs, Australia? |
Listers,
I'll be in Alice Springs, Australia during March 6-22. Any RVers in the
area care to get together?
Tim Lewis
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 740 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pants fairing |
Charles Heathco wrote:
>
>I would like to get the wheel pants fairings that Bob S has, but I have no experience
with fiberglass and they have to be put on each 1/2 of the pants. I am
reasonably skilled if I know what I am doing. Anybody done this on their plane?
mine is 6A. charlie heathco
>
>Also contact Ed Reicher and consider his upper and lower fairings aerosu(at)msn.com
>
They are about $215 postage paid and they look very good. I bought the
new ones from Van's because they were less expensive. But they are also
very smooth on the inside and pretty rough on the outside which is
requiring a lot of smoothing to get them ready for paint.. Seems like
someone should have the smooth surface on the outside. Phil RV6
flying a little bit
>
>
> aerosu(at)msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RVers near Alice Springs, Australia? |
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>Listers,
>
>I'll be in Alice Springs, Australia during March 6-22. Any RVers in the
>area care to get together?
>
>Tim Lewis
>
>
you lucky devil
Phil in Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder |
In a message dated 3/14/2005 6:08:02 P.M. Central Standard Time,
ronschreck(at)alltel.net writes:
Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every time
I try to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up when I
try to access the link to their email.
I have the same problem.
d. preston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's seat patterns |
Mickey; I purchased van's foam and took them to a local upholtstry shop that
has been doing aircraft seats. He told the foam looked really good, said he
can't buy it for the 180. He said to take the pattern home he would do his
own thing. We'll soon what they turned out like? Mark
N137MR just finished wiring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bertrv6(at)highstream.net |
Hi:
I have the Grand rapids Engine monitor, I was doing some preliminary
taxin, and on run-up, when checking the Mags.. the monitor show 0 as rpms..
on either mag... \\forthose familiar with this unit, there is a switch one
must install, between the 2 mags. you start engine with either...
Any suggestions on this ?
By the way, on the first couple or taxi runs, it worked fine...
showing some drop for each mag...
Thanks \
Bert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Lighting |
Scott,
For a 3 strobe system, the Nova 90 watt unit is the one that is the equal
of the Whelen system (as regards power). This unit exceeds the light output
currently required by the FAA. You will need to install the Whelen strobe
lens and retainers over the strobe heads (aka bulbs). Vans has the best
price on the lens, go to ACS for the lens retainers. The lens are needed
with both the Whelen and Nova units. The FAA wants the majority of the
light to be biased in the horizontal plane. That is accomplished via the
lens. FYI Nova replacement bulbs are $24.95 each, versus $59.95 for the
Whelen replacements.
Charlie Kuss
>
> All, I'm fighting tooth and nail trying to resist buying the $780 system
> 6 strobe unit from vans. I am looking at getting some recycled nav
> lights, and just installing nova-type strobes. I know the regulations
> for night flight are somewhat specific in the visibility of the strobes,
> and I had a few questions: * Assuming I go with a 3 strobe scenario
> (wingtips and tail), is it a problem if the strobe head is on the forward
> facing portion of the sheared wingtip (nav light would be on portion
> parallel to fuselage)?* For those using the NOVA supply, what is the
> preferred output (60, 80, or 90)?* Anyone with a "seasoned" similar setup
> care to comment on the reliability of the NOVA solution (as opposed to
> Whelan)? Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: E.I.S MONITOR |
For future reference, on yahoo there's a GRT_EFIS user's group which you can also
post any question you want about the EIS since most GRT EFIS users also use
the GRT EIS as part of the engine monitor function. The GRT engineers are also
group members and will answer questions when nobobdy else usually can.
If interested, go to www.groups.yahoo.com and join the GRT_EFIS group. I'm the moderator so if you have any problems just let me know.
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Hi:
>
> I have the Grand rapids Engine monitor, I was doing some preliminary
> taxin, and on run-up, when checking the Mags.. the monitor show 0 as rpms..
>
> on either mag... \\forthose familiar with this unit, there is a switch one
> must install, between the 2 mags. you start engine with either...
>
> Any suggestions on this ?
>
> By the way, on the first couple or taxi runs, it worked fine...
> showing some drop for each mag...
>
>
> Thanks \
>
>
> Bert
>
>
>
>
>
>
For future reference, on yahoo there's a GRT_EFIS user's group which you can also
post any question you want about the EIS since most GRT EFIS users also use
the GRT EIS as part of the engine monitor function. The GRT engineers are also
group members and will answer questions when nobobdy else usually can.
If interested, go to www.groups.yahoo.com and join the GRT_EFIS group. I'm the moderator so if you have any problems just let me know.
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: bertrv6(at)highstream.net
Hi:
I have the Grand rapids Engine monitor, I was doing some preliminary
taxin, and on run-up, when checking the Mags.. the monitor show 0 as rpms..
on either mag... \\forthose familiar with this unit, there is a switch one
must install, between the 2 mags. you start engine with either...
Any suggestions on this ?
By the way, on the first couple or taxi runs, it worked fine...
showing some drop for each mag...
Thanks \
Bert
entirely through the Contributions
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: Van's seat patterns |
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/upholstery.htm
may not be exactly what you are looking for but here's one man's ability to learn
to upholster A/C seats...
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> Mickey; I purchased van's foam and took them to a local upholtstry shop that
> has been doing aircraft seats. He told the foam looked really good, said he
> can't buy it for the 180. He said to take the pattern home he would do his
> own thing. We'll soon what they turned out like? Mark
> N137MR just finished wiring.
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/upholstery.htm
may not be exactly what you are looking for but here's one man's ability to learn
to upholster A/C seats...
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Mark Rose"
Mickey; I purchased van's foam and took them to a local upholtstry shop that
has been doing aircraft seats. He told the foam looked really good, said he
can't buy it for the 180. He said to take the pattern home he would do his
own thing. We'll soon what they turned out like? Mark
N137MR just finished wiring.
===================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill(at)gcctv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder |
I did what Mr. Glasson suggested on an earlier post. Worked for me. The
only problem I have is printing it out. The panel itself prints but no
instruments or avioincs. Any suggestions??
Mark Phillips
Williamsville,Illinois
RV-6 Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: <DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: epanelbuilder
>
>
> In a message dated 3/14/2005 6:08:02 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> ronschreck(at)alltel.net writes:
>
> Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every
> time
> I try to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up
> when I
> try to access the link to their email.
>
>
> I have the same problem.
> d. preston
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder |
Do a screenshot by pressing [Alt]-[PrintScreen]. Then paste it into
your favorite image manipulation program such as MSPAINT :-) and then
you can crop whatever you don't want out of the picture. At least,
that's the cheapskate's method.
Mark/Micki Phillips wrote:
>
>I did what Mr. Glasson suggested on an earlier post. Worked for me. The
>only problem I have is printing it out. The panel itself prints but no
>instruments or avioincs. Any suggestions??
>Mark Phillips
>Williamsville,Illinois
>RV-6 Finishing
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: epanelbuilder
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>In a message dated 3/14/2005 6:08:02 P.M. Central Standard Time,
>>ronschreck(at)alltel.net writes:
>>
>>Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every
>>time
>>I try to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up
>>when I
>>try to access the link to their email.
>>
>>
>>I have the same problem.
>>d. preston
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Hi Mike,
Yes, I recall our conversation. I appreciate your input as I only have a
conceptual understanding of a Stepper motor. My inclination is to go with
what I do understand and that is the Servo motor. The stepper sounds like
it would work but like most things just a different set of limitations and
challenges {:>). I had not considered that the stepper might produce more
EMF - certainly not desirable - I am certain it could be shielded but at
this moment not certain what the advantage of the stepper would be - unless
simply considerably cheaper than the aircraft servos. I had thought a
stepper might not have "resistance" to pilot inputs, but from what you
explained that does not look to necessarily be the case.
So much to learn - so little time {:>)
Thanks again
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
Pilots
>
> Hi Ed,
>
> I enjoyed talking with you at Leeward's, I told you I was an Electronics
Tech. I am no expert but I have had some experience with stepper motors and
servos. I think you would find stepper motors and there drives to cause a
lot of RF noise. They move one step (say 2 deg/step) when commanded to. So
command 100 steps - move 200 deg rotation. Change rotation direction at will
with command. The higher their torque is, the harder it would be to overcome
their commanded position. So to override the stepper motor with manual
control stick input could be an undesirably high control stick force. The
stepper motor itself does not provide feedback. There are multiple ways to
keep track of the position the motor has moved it's load. Stepper circuits
normally have a "Home" position switch (such as neutral aileron stick
position) then the controller or software keeps track of the precision steps
in both directions from "Home". With this arrangement, if torque of stepper
motor is exceeded,
> the motor will stall or slip X number of uncommanded steps which would
cause a loss of position tracking. With an additional feedback circuit
design (such as a potentiometer or rheostat) you could keep track of the
aileron deflection degrees RT or LT slewing the stepper to the desired
position (Move clockwise until Aileron LT equals 5 degrees).
>
> I believe the servo with clutch approach would be more simple, lighter,
and less prone to produce elec. noise.
>
> Have fun,
> Mike Mckenna
>
>
> >
> > From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
> > Date: 2005/03/14 Mon AM 07:37:55 EST
> > To:
> > Subject: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
Pilots
> >
> >
> > Hi Doug,
> >
> > I am not that familiar with the details of stepper motors, although I do
> > understand the concept. My question is what aspect of the stepper motor
> > makes it better suited for this application? Does a stepper motor not
> > offer "resistance" as does a servo without a clutch may do? Does a
stepper
> > motor provide "position" feed back? or does it already "know" (based on
the
> > command sent) what position it will be activated to reach.
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Guys, this is a great discussion. Please keep it online so we can all
> > benefit.
> > >
> > > I have dreams of doing the same myself when I am finished my RV-6.
> > >
> > > The stepper motor servo seems to be the most practical solution, saves
> > building a clutched servo. A
> > > stepper can be driven from buffered outputs from a microcontroller. I
have
> > done this myself for a
> > > job many years ago but it didnt have the torque I had expected. Didn't
get
> > to the bottom of that at
> > > the time. I would have anticipated quite a lot of drag for these.
> > >
> > > Also, the stepper motor could possibly be liberated from a dead
printer.
> > >
> > > Approximatly how big is the tru-track(?) stepper? Can anyone glean a
> > little more information.
> > >
> > > Doug Gray
> > > '6 Fuse, now off the jig.
> > >
> > >
> > > Ed Anderson wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Bill,
> > > >
> > > > Just got back from week end with Tracy and Laura Crook - great as
> > always.
> > > >
> > > > Yes, I found some code for an "Inverted Pendulum" that looks like it
> > will
> > > > provide a basis for the PID code. They do some neat tricks with
clock
> > > > frequency and sampling rates to make the math (shifts) much quicker.
> > > >
> > > > Yes, the 1/3 scale model servos produce torque equal and greater
than
> > that
> > > > shown in the autopilot specs on servos - so no problem there.
However,
> > I
> > > > have not been able to find one with any type of clutch which as you
> > indicate
> > > > is desirable.
> > > >
> > > > My initial thoughts on that aspect of the problem is to have the
servo
> > push
> > > > a rod that goes through a hole in a tab attached to aileron bell
crank.
> > The
> > > > rod would have springs on both sides of the tab (conceptually
similar to
> > > > Van's elCheapo spring trim system which I use in my RV-6A).
However,
> > there
> > > > are some problems with that concept, so don't know if that would
work,
> > but
> > > > might be worth a try. On the otherhand adapting a magnetic clutch
might
> > be
> > > > a more elegant way to go.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the suggestions
> > > >
> > > > Ed
> > > >
> > > > Ed Anderson
> > > > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > > > Matthews, NC
> > > > eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
> > > > To:
> > > > Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >>
> > > >>
> >
> > > >>>
> > > >>>I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing
leveler.
> > I
> > > >>>have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation
> > > >>
> > > > (PSPICE)
> > > >
> > > >>>at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog
> > > >>
> > > > approach
> > > >
> > > >>>or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers
more
> > > >>
> > > > move
> > > >
> > > >>>for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a
bit
> > > >>
> > > > much.
> > > >
> > > >>>The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited
growth
> > > >>>capability.
> > > >>
> > > >> You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any
other
> > > >>embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system
and
> > > >>you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>> I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will
start
> > out
> > > >>
> > > > as
> > > >
> > > >>>an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe
> > that
> > > >>
> > > > a
> > > >
> > > >>>Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best
bet
> > > >>
> > > > (and
> > > >
> > > >>>least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two
control
> > > >>>loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to
your
> > set
> > > >>>heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement
this
> > > >>
> > > > would
> > > >
> > > >>>feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be
compared
> > to
> > > >>>the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would
> > generate
> > > >>
> > > > a
> > > >
> > > >>>roll rate command which would end up driving the servo.
> > > >>
> > > >> That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to
the
> > > >
> > > > inner
> > > >
> > > >>loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the
> > heading
> > > >>input. Easier to do digitally, by the way.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>> A small difference
> > > >>>in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference
a
> > > >>
> > > > faster
> > > >
> > > >>>roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously
> > quite
> > > >>
> > > > a
> > > >
> > > >>>bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the
general
> > > >>
> > > > idea.
> > > >
> > > >>>The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale
> > model
> > > >>>aircraft servo.
> > > >>
> > > >> Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to
> > > >
> > > > clutch
> > > >
> > > >>the servo to allow manual over-ride?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Sanding out paint |
>Rich, That stuff is tuff as nails!! Very hard to sand and buff back up to
a nice finish. I would sand the orange peel and use Clear over the whole
aircraft at this point. Imron is available in clear.
-----
Am getting ready to paint and wondering if it would be more forgiving to use a
2 stage base/clear for sanding out any orange peel then applying clear to bring
out the shine without sacrificing the finish in single stage scenario.
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1(at)msn.com> |
When you create a panel using Epanel, the program stores a file on your hard
disk. Every so often, the keeper of the Epanel program updates the program
with more instruments, and the file stored on your hard disk becomes
incompatible with the latest Epanel program.
On the Epanel site there is a note on what to do if you have problems that
looks like this. It reads --
"This application works only with Internet Explorer version 5.0 and newer.
If you are experiencing lockup problems CLICK HERE" Follow the
instructions, delete the file on your hard drive and Epanel will stop
locking up (until the next time the program is updated)
The trick is finding out where that *.xml file is located. Once you find it
and delete it, the Epanel program will work great until the next update. Of
course you will have to rebuild your dream panel design all over again but
what the heck, that is half the fun.
JD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: epanelbuilder
In a message dated 3/14/2005 6:08:02 P.M. Central Standard Time,
ronschreck(at)alltel.net writes:
Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every time
I try to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up when
I
try to access the link to their email.
I have the same problem.
d. preston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | teflon hose assembly problems |
I decided to try to make my own fuel and oil hoses. I tried to get the
high quality aluminum racing fittings (Earl's) but the factory can't
meet demand right now, so I ended up with mostly steel fittings from
Earl's for the -4 fittings and Russell for the -6 (both are AN). The
hose is Earl's "speed flex" steel braided teflon. These are 3 part
fittings with a 1) "nut" or socket, 2) a ferrule (sometimes called an
olive) and 3) the nipple.
The aluminum Earl's fittings, which I can only get a few of, are great.
They seem to assemble onto the hoses pretty easily. But the Russells
are giving me fits. Either I can't get the ferrule pushed over the
teflon hose without ruining it, or more commonly I can't get the
hose+ferrule pushed onto the nipple. In the latter case a ridge forms
in the soft teflon and it's nearly impossible to push the tube part of
the the nipple past it. My success rate seems to be about one good
fitting mounted in 3 or 4 attempts. Since you need 2 fittings on each
hose, I am batting zero so far for finished hoses.
I'm just about ready to chuck it all and call Precision Hose Technology
Inc., or somebody like them and cough up the money to get them all
pre-made. The purpose if this email is to see if any one can give me
any tips on how to assemble these things more reliably. Some lubricant
on the nipple perhaps? Some obscure trick to get the hose to slip on
over the nipple???
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steven dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in USA |
Also the faa inspectors won't get involved in any inspection except the
final. So incremental inspections would have to done via eaa tech
counselor or perhaps an AP mech. Which may not help meet the
requirements of Canadian inspection procedures. Fwiw, perhaps a dar
could help..
Steve d
N221rv, n223rv, n231rv(rv10)
>I'm looking at possibly getting some serious builder assistance from a
>fellow in the USA. I would be present and doing 90% of work.
>
>Anyone know how this will affect my ability to complete the kit in
Canada
>considering that most of the airframe will have been inspected by US
>inspectors. I honestly don't know how much I would get done down south
but
>I'm thinking between 75 - 95% again I would be present and hands on for
the
>entire building process.
>
The fact that you used builder assistance won't be a problem, as that
is now specifcally allowed in Canada. But I am almost certain that
you will need to have the inspections done by either Transport
Canada, or the MDRA inspectors.
The MDRA has been delegated to do inspections in Canada, so I
recommend that you contact them to discuss this:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Lighting |
Hi,
I didn't know the strobes needed lenses over them. I was
just planning on popping the strobe head into the sheared
wingtip light area and be done with it. Is the one you
are talking about this one: Part Number = LN A612 LENS,CLEAR
and the ACS part: WHELEN LENS RETAINER A426 $28.300
Thanks,
Mickey
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> Scott,
> For a 3 strobe system, the Nova 90 watt unit is the one that is the equal
> of the Whelen system (as regards power). This unit exceeds the light output
> currently required by the FAA. You will need to install the Whelen strobe
> lens and retainers over the strobe heads (aka bulbs). Vans has the best
> price on the lens, go to ACS for the lens retainers. The lens are needed
> with both the Whelen and Nova units. The FAA wants the majority of the
> light to be biased in the horizontal plane. That is accomplished via the
> lens. FYI Nova replacement bulbs are $24.95 each, versus $59.95 for the
> Whelen replacements.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
>>
>> All, I'm fighting tooth and nail trying to resist buying the $780 system
>>6 strobe unit from vans. I am looking at getting some recycled nav
>>lights, and just installing nova-type strobes. I know the regulations
>>for night flight are somewhat specific in the visibility of the strobes,
>>and I had a few questions: * Assuming I go with a 3 strobe scenario
>>(wingtips and tail), is it a problem if the strobe head is on the forward
>>facing portion of the sheared wingtip (nav light would be on portion
>>parallel to fuselage)?* For those using the NOVA supply, what is the
>>preferred output (60, 80, or 90)?* Anyone with a "seasoned" similar setup
>>care to comment on the reliability of the NOVA solution (as opposed to
>>Whelan)? Thanks,Scott7A
>>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sanding out paint |
That's exactly the way I did mine. PPG base & clear coat.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "dave" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: Sanding out paint
>
>
>>Rich, That stuff is tuff as nails!! Very hard to sand and buff back up
>>to
> a nice finish. I would sand the orange peel and use Clear over the whole
> aircraft at this point. Imron is available in clear.
>
> -----
> Am getting ready to paint and wondering if it would be more forgiving to
> use a 2 stage base/clear for sanding out any orange peel then applying
> clear to bring out the shine without sacrificing the finish in single
> stage scenario.
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
Pilots
Ed,
Here are a few hits from google on the subject.
http://www.st.com/stonline/books/ascii/docs/1679.htm
http://www.doc.ic.ac.uk/~ih/doc/stepper/
Personally I like the clutched servo option best but it was only when someone mentioned
that
steppers had been used for an AP servo I got thinking.
First - are we certain the tru-trac servo is a stepper? It may be one of a number
of motor styles,
one which comes to mind is a syncro drive, another is a selsyn synchronous motor.
The beauty of he stepper is that it has significant torque at low speeds so does
not need a gearbox.
Direct drive means no backlash and no multiplication of the motor drag load.
Without electrical drive the drag resistance is from the permanent field magnets
acting on the
armature core. Perhaps there are varients that do not have permanent magnets,
I would expect these
to be nearly free turning.
They do not have a position sensor as such, but when the drive signals are applied
the motor will
cog to the next immediate step. Sequencing the voltage on the field coils will
cause the motor to
step to the next step, reverse the sequence the motor steps back. Half steps are
also possible.
The motor fields at minimum could be driven by 4 suitably buffered parallel output
pins of a
microcontroller.
The sheer simplicity of these has some appeal but the output would represent deltas
to the current
aileron position, the system however does not know where the zero deflection actually
is. I don't
know if this matters, but it is a question to resolve in the design.
Doug Gray
Ed Anderson wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Yes, I recall our conversation. I appreciate your input as I only have a
> conceptual understanding of a Stepper motor. My inclination is to go with
> what I do understand and that is the Servo motor. The stepper sounds like
> it would work but like most things just a different set of limitations and
> challenges {:>). I had not considered that the stepper might produce more
> EMF - certainly not desirable - I am certain it could be shielded but at
> this moment not certain what the advantage of the stepper would be - unless
> simply considerably cheaper than the aircraft servos. I had thought a
> stepper might not have "resistance" to pilot inputs, but from what you
> explained that does not look to necessarily be the case.
>
> So much to learn - so little time {:>)
>
> Thanks again
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
> Pilots
>
>
>
>>
>>Hi Ed,
>>
>> I enjoyed talking with you at Leeward's, I told you I was an Electronics
>
> Tech. I am no expert but I have had some experience with stepper motors and
> servos. I think you would find stepper motors and there drives to cause a
> lot of RF noise. They move one step (say 2 deg/step) when commanded to. So
> command 100 steps - move 200 deg rotation. Change rotation direction at will
> with command. The higher their torque is, the harder it would be to overcome
> their commanded position. So to override the stepper motor with manual
> control stick input could be an undesirably high control stick force. The
> stepper motor itself does not provide feedback. There are multiple ways to
> keep track of the position the motor has moved it's load. Stepper circuits
> normally have a "Home" position switch (such as neutral aileron stick
> position) then the controller or software keeps track of the precision steps
> in both directions from "Home". With this arrangement, if torque of stepper
> motor is exceeded,
>
>> the motor will stall or slip X number of uncommanded steps which would
>
> cause a loss of position tracking. With an additional feedback circuit
> design (such as a potentiometer or rheostat) you could keep track of the
> aileron deflection degrees RT or LT slewing the stepper to the desired
> position (Move clockwise until Aileron LT equals 5 degrees).
>
>> I believe the servo with clutch approach would be more simple, lighter,
>
> and less prone to produce elec. noise.
>
>> Have fun,
>>Mike Mckenna
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
>>>Date: 2005/03/14 Mon AM 07:37:55 EST
>>>To:
>>>Subject: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
>>
> Pilots
>
>>>
>>>Hi Doug,
>>>
>>>I am not that familiar with the details of stepper motors, although I do
>>>understand the concept. My question is what aspect of the stepper motor
>>>makes it better suited for this application? Does a stepper motor not
>>>offer "resistance" as does a servo without a clutch may do? Does a
>>
> stepper
>
>>>motor provide "position" feed back? or does it already "know" (based on
>>
> the
>
>>>command sent) what position it will be activated to reach.
>>>
>>>Ed Anderson
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
>>>To:
>>>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>Guys, this is a great discussion. Please keep it online so we can all
>>>
>>>benefit.
>>>
>>>>I have dreams of doing the same myself when I am finished my RV-6.
>>>>
>>>>The stepper motor servo seems to be the most practical solution, saves
>>>
>>>building a clutched servo. A
>>>
>>>>stepper can be driven from buffered outputs from a microcontroller. I
>>>
> have
>
>>>done this myself for a
>>>
>>>>job many years ago but it didnt have the torque I had expected. Didn't
>>>
> get
>
>>>to the bottom of that at
>>>
>>>>the time. I would have anticipated quite a lot of drag for these.
>>>>
>>>>Also, the stepper motor could possibly be liberated from a dead
>>>
> printer.
>
>>>>Approximatly how big is the tru-track(?) stepper? Can anyone glean a
>>>
>>>little more information.
>>>
>>>>Doug Gray
>>>>'6 Fuse, now off the jig.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Ed Anderson wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>
>
>>>>>Hi Bill,
>>>>>
>>>>>Just got back from week end with Tracy and Laura Crook - great as
>>>>
>>>always.
>>>
>>>>>Yes, I found some code for an "Inverted Pendulum" that looks like it
>>>>
>>>will
>>>
>>>>>provide a basis for the PID code. They do some neat tricks with
>>>>
> clock
>
>>>>>frequency and sampling rates to make the math (shifts) much quicker.
>>>>>
>>>>>Yes, the 1/3 scale model servos produce torque equal and greater
>>>>
> than
>
>>>that
>>>
>>>>>shown in the autopilot specs on servos - so no problem there.
>>>>
> However,
>
>>>I
>>>
>>>>>have not been able to find one with any type of clutch which as you
>>>>
>>>indicate
>>>
>>>>>is desirable.
>>>>>
>>>>>My initial thoughts on that aspect of the problem is to have the
>>>>
> servo
>
>>>push
>>>
>>>>>a rod that goes through a hole in a tab attached to aileron bell
>>>>
> crank.
>
>>>The
>>>
>>>>>rod would have springs on both sides of the tab (conceptually
>>>>
> similar to
>
>>>>>Van's elCheapo spring trim system which I use in my RV-6A).
>>>>
> However,
>
>>>there
>>>
>>>>>are some problems with that concept, so don't know if that would
>>>>
> work,
>
>>>but
>>>
>>>>>might be worth a try. On the otherhand adapting a magnetic clutch
>>>>
> might
>
>>>be
>>>
>>>>>a more elegant way to go.
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks for the suggestions
>>>>>
>>>>>Ed
>>>>>
>>>>>Ed Anderson
>>>>>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>>>>>Matthews, NC
>>>>>eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>>From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
>>>>>To:
>>>>>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing
>>>>>>
> leveler.
>
>>>I
>>>
>>>>>>>have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation
>>>>>>
>>>>>(PSPICE)
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog
>>>>>>
>>>>>approach
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers
>>>>>>
> more
>
>>>>>move
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a
>>>>>>
> bit
>
>>>>>much.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited
>>>>>>
> growth
>
>>>>>>>capability.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any
>>>>>
> other
>
>>>>>>embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system
>>>>>
> and
>
>>>>>>you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will
>>>>>>
> start
>
>>>out
>>>
>>>>>as
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe
>>>>>>
>>>that
>>>
>>>>>a
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best
>>>>>>
> bet
>
>>>>>(and
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two
>>>>>>
> control
>
>>>>>>>loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to
>>>>>>
> your
>
>>>set
>>>
>>>>>>>heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement
>>>>>>
> this
>
>>>>>would
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be
>>>>>>
> compared
>
>>>to
>>>
>>>>>>>the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would
>>>>>>
>>>generate
>>>
>>>>>a
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>roll rate command which would end up driving the servo.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to
>>>>>
> the
>
>>>>>inner
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the
>>>>>
>>>heading
>>>
>>>>>>input. Easier to do digitally, by the way.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> A small difference
>>>>>>>in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference
>>>>>>
> a
>
>>>>>faster
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously
>>>>>>
>>>quite
>>>
>>>>>a
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the
>>>>>>
> general
>
>>>>>idea.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale
>>>>>>
>>>model
>>>
>>>>>>>aircraft servo.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to
>>>>>
>>>>>clutch
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>the servo to allow manual over-ride?
>>>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Thanks for the URLs, Doug
I'll look at them and hopefully pick up a bit more understanding of Stepper
motors. As you say there are undoubtedly some variants which could have
significant benefits.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
Pilots
>
> Ed,
>
> Here are a few hits from google on the subject.
>
> http://www.st.com/stonline/books/ascii/docs/1679.htm
> http://www.doc.ic.ac.uk/~ih/doc/stepper/
>
>
> Personally I like the clutched servo option best but it was only when
someone mentioned that
> steppers had been used for an AP servo I got thinking.
>
> First - are we certain the tru-trac servo is a stepper? It may be one of
a number of motor styles,
> one which comes to mind is a syncro drive, another is a selsyn synchronous
motor.
>
> The beauty of he stepper is that it has significant torque at low speeds
so does not need a gearbox.
> Direct drive means no backlash and no multiplication of the motor drag
load.
>
> Without electrical drive the drag resistance is from the permanent field
magnets acting on the
> armature core. Perhaps there are varients that do not have permanent
magnets, I would expect these
> to be nearly free turning.
>
> They do not have a position sensor as such, but when the drive signals are
applied the motor will
> cog to the next immediate step. Sequencing the voltage on the field coils
will cause the motor to
> step to the next step, reverse the sequence the motor steps back. Half
steps are also possible.
>
> The motor fields at minimum could be driven by 4 suitably buffered
parallel output pins of a
> microcontroller.
>
> The sheer simplicity of these has some appeal but the output would
represent deltas to the current
> aileron position, the system however does not know where the zero
deflection actually is. I don't
> know if this matters, but it is a question to resolve in the design.
>
> Doug Gray
>
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> >
> > Yes, I recall our conversation. I appreciate your input as I only have
a
> > conceptual understanding of a Stepper motor. My inclination is to go
with
> > what I do understand and that is the Servo motor. The stepper sounds
like
> > it would work but like most things just a different set of limitations
and
> > challenges {:>). I had not considered that the stepper might produce
more
> > EMF - certainly not desirable - I am certain it could be shielded but at
> > this moment not certain what the advantage of the stepper would be -
unless
> > simply considerably cheaper than the aircraft servos. I had thought a
> > stepper might not have "resistance" to pilot inputs, but from what you
> > explained that does not look to necessarily be the case.
> >
> > So much to learn - so little time {:>)
> >
> > Thanks again
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > Matthews, NC
> > eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List:
Auto
> > Pilots
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Hi Ed,
> >>
> >> I enjoyed talking with you at Leeward's, I told you I was an
Electronics
> >
> > Tech. I am no expert but I have had some experience with stepper motors
and
> > servos. I think you would find stepper motors and there drives to cause
a
> > lot of RF noise. They move one step (say 2 deg/step) when commanded to.
So
> > command 100 steps - move 200 deg rotation. Change rotation direction at
will
> > with command. The higher their torque is, the harder it would be to
overcome
> > their commanded position. So to override the stepper motor with manual
> > control stick input could be an undesirably high control stick force.
The
> > stepper motor itself does not provide feedback. There are multiple ways
to
> > keep track of the position the motor has moved it's load. Stepper
circuits
> > normally have a "Home" position switch (such as neutral aileron stick
> > position) then the controller or software keeps track of the precision
steps
> > in both directions from "Home". With this arrangement, if torque of
stepper
> > motor is exceeded,
> >
> >> the motor will stall or slip X number of uncommanded steps which would
> >
> > cause a loss of position tracking. With an additional feedback circuit
> > design (such as a potentiometer or rheostat) you could keep track of the
> > aileron deflection degrees RT or LT slewing the stepper to the desired
> > position (Move clockwise until Aileron LT equals 5 degrees).
> >
> >> I believe the servo with clutch approach would be more simple, lighter,
> >
> > and less prone to produce elec. noise.
> >
> >> Have fun,
> >>Mike Mckenna
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
> >>>Date: 2005/03/14 Mon AM 07:37:55 EST
> >>>To:
> >>>Subject: Stepper Motor Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto
> >>
> > Pilots
> >
> >>>
> >>>Hi Doug,
> >>>
> >>>I am not that familiar with the details of stepper motors, although I
do
> >>>understand the concept. My question is what aspect of the stepper motor
> >>>makes it better suited for this application? Does a stepper motor
not
> >>>offer "resistance" as does a servo without a clutch may do? Does a
> >>
> > stepper
> >
> >>>motor provide "position" feed back? or does it already "know" (based on
> >>
> > the
> >
> >>>command sent) what position it will be activated to reach.
> >>>
> >>>Ed Anderson
> >>>
> >>>----- Original Message -----
> >>>From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
> >>>To:
> >>>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Guys, this is a great discussion. Please keep it online so we can all
> >>>
> >>>benefit.
> >>>
> >>>>I have dreams of doing the same myself when I am finished my RV-6.
> >>>>
> >>>>The stepper motor servo seems to be the most practical solution, saves
> >>>
> >>>building a clutched servo. A
> >>>
> >>>>stepper can be driven from buffered outputs from a microcontroller. I
> >>>
> > have
> >
> >>>done this myself for a
> >>>
> >>>>job many years ago but it didnt have the torque I had expected. Didn't
> >>>
> > get
> >
> >>>to the bottom of that at
> >>>
> >>>>the time. I would have anticipated quite a lot of drag for these.
> >>>>
> >>>>Also, the stepper motor could possibly be liberated from a dead
> >>>
> > printer.
> >
> >>>>Approximatly how big is the tru-track(?) stepper? Can anyone glean a
> >>>
> >>>little more information.
> >>>
> >>>>Doug Gray
> >>>>'6 Fuse, now off the jig.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Ed Anderson wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >
> >
> >>>>>Hi Bill,
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Just got back from week end with Tracy and Laura Crook - great as
> >>>>
> >>>always.
> >>>
> >>>>>Yes, I found some code for an "Inverted Pendulum" that looks like it
> >>>>
> >>>will
> >>>
> >>>>>provide a basis for the PID code. They do some neat tricks with
> >>>>
> > clock
> >
> >>>>>frequency and sampling rates to make the math (shifts) much quicker.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Yes, the 1/3 scale model servos produce torque equal and greater
> >>>>
> > than
> >
> >>>that
> >>>
> >>>>>shown in the autopilot specs on servos - so no problem there.
> >>>>
> > However,
> >
> >>>I
> >>>
> >>>>>have not been able to find one with any type of clutch which as you
> >>>>
> >>>indicate
> >>>
> >>>>>is desirable.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>My initial thoughts on that aspect of the problem is to have the
> >>>>
> > servo
> >
> >>>push
> >>>
> >>>>>a rod that goes through a hole in a tab attached to aileron bell
> >>>>
> > crank.
> >
> >>>The
> >>>
> >>>>>rod would have springs on both sides of the tab (conceptually
> >>>>
> > similar to
> >
> >>>>>Van's elCheapo spring trim system which I use in my RV-6A).
> >>>>
> > However,
> >
> >>>there
> >>>
> >>>>>are some problems with that concept, so don't know if that would
> >>>>
> > work,
> >
> >>>but
> >>>
> >>>>>might be worth a try. On the otherhand adapting a magnetic clutch
> >>>>
> > might
> >
> >>>be
> >>>
> >>>>>a more elegant way to go.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Thanks for the suggestions
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Ed
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Ed Anderson
> >>>>>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> >>>>>Matthews, NC
> >>>>>eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>----- Original Message -----
> >>>>>From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
> >>>>>To:
> >>>>>Subject: Re: Roll your own auto pilot? Re: RV-List: Auto Pilots
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>>>>I am currently playing with a design for a heading hold -wing
> >>>>>>
> > leveler.
> >
> >>>I
> >>>
> >>>>>>>have the electronic components mocked up in a electronic simulation
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>(PSPICE)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>at this point. I am still debating whether to go with the analog
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>approach
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>or the digital using a PIC Microchip. The digital clearly offers
> >>>>>>
> > more
> >
> >>>>>move
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>for growth and change but the complexity of the algorithms are a
> >>>>>>
> > bit
> >
> >>>>>much.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>The analog looks to be more straight forward - but with limited
> >>>>>>
> > growth
> >
> >>>>>>>capability.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> You can easily find PID code for the PIC or nearly any
> >>>>>
> > other
> >
> >>>>>>embedded controller. Use that stock code as the core for your system
> >>>>>
> > and
> >
> >>>>>>you will save yourself a ton of programming and de-bugging work.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I am looking to make a simply (inexpensive) system that will
> >>>>>>
> > start
> >
> >>>out
> >>>
> >>>>>as
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>an manual electric aileron trim and progress from there. I believe
> >>>>>>
> >>>that
> >>>
> >>>>>a
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>Cascading set of simple OpAmp PID controllers looks to be the best
> >>>>>>
> > bet
> >
> >>>>>(and
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>least expensive) for smooth operation. This is basically two
> >>>>>>
> > control
> >
> >>>>>>>loops - the outside loop would be comparing a heading signal to
> >>>>>>
> > your
> >
> >>>set
> >>>
> >>>>>>>heading the difference would generally a roll angle requirement
> >>>>>>
> > this
> >
> >>>>>would
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>feed to the inside loop where the current roll angle would be
> >>>>>>
> > compared
> >
> >>>to
> >>>
> >>>>>>>the command roll and if a difference exists the inner list would
> >>>>>>
> >>>generate
> >>>
> >>>>>a
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>roll rate command which would end up driving the servo.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> That makes sense. Feed in the rate sensor information to
> >>>>>
> > the
> >
> >>>>>inner
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>loop to keep it stable and reduce the sensitivity to noise on the
> >>>>>
> >>>heading
> >>>
> >>>>>>input. Easier to do digitally, by the way.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> A small difference
> >>>>>>>in heading would generate a small roll rate and a larger difference
> >>>>>>
> > a
> >
> >>>>>faster
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>roll rate (with limits of course - probably 15 deg max). Obviously
> >>>>>>
> >>>quite
> >>>
> >>>>>a
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>bit more complex than this brief description - but that's the
> >>>>>>
> > general
> >
> >>>>>idea.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>>The Unit is intended for VFR ONLY and will probably use a 1/3 scale
> >>>>>>
> >>>model
> >>>
> >>>>>>>aircraft servo.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Would that have the torque needed? Also, how do you plan to
> >>>>>
> >>>>>clutch
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>the servo to allow manual over-ride?
> >>>>>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: teflon hose assembly problems |
Tom,
There is a tool which has a hollow tube in the center. The Teflon hose goes
down the tube (and is protected) as you use the tool to push back the
stainless steel braid covering, this keeps from "dinging" the soft Teflon
tube while trying to get the braid pushed back. Don't know if you have one
of the tools, but I found they made a difference in getting the ferrule on
the tube.
ED A
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: teflon hose assembly problems
>
> I decided to try to make my own fuel and oil hoses. I tried to get the
> high quality aluminum racing fittings (Earl's) but the factory can't
> meet demand right now, so I ended up with mostly steel fittings from
> Earl's for the -4 fittings and Russell for the -6 (both are AN). The
> hose is Earl's "speed flex" steel braided teflon. These are 3 part
> fittings with a 1) "nut" or socket, 2) a ferrule (sometimes called an
> olive) and 3) the nipple.
>
> The aluminum Earl's fittings, which I can only get a few of, are great.
> They seem to assemble onto the hoses pretty easily. But the Russells
> are giving me fits. Either I can't get the ferrule pushed over the
> teflon hose without ruining it, or more commonly I can't get the
> hose+ferrule pushed onto the nipple. In the latter case a ridge forms
> in the soft teflon and it's nearly impossible to push the tube part of
> the the nipple past it. My success rate seems to be about one good
> fitting mounted in 3 or 4 attempts. Since you need 2 fittings on each
> hose, I am batting zero so far for finished hoses.
>
> I'm just about ready to chuck it all and call Precision Hose Technology
> Inc., or somebody like them and cough up the money to get them all
> pre-made. The purpose if this email is to see if any one can give me
> any tips on how to assemble these things more reliably. Some lubricant
> on the nipple perhaps? Some obscure trick to get the hose to slip on
> over the nipple???
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Wheel pant fairing P.S. |
I ment toask if anyone had seen any speed gain with the addition of the pants fairing??
Charlie jheathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder - Printing |
What I've done with some success is copy the various objects from
epanelbuilder (one at a time including the panel) and paste them into
"Power Point" . . . . they end up being larger in that environment.
Once you've pasted everything you need you can move them around much
like "epanelbuilder" . . . you can then save the panel as a .jpg
and/or print from "Power Point".
This has been a big help to me! Thank's to Bill for epanelbuilder!
Regards,
Bob
wrote:
>
> I did what Mr. Glasson suggested on an earlier post. Worked for me. The
> only problem I have is printing it out. The panel itself prints but no
> instruments or avioincs. Any suggestions??
> Mark Phillips
> Williamsville,Illinois
> RV-6 Finishing
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: epanelbuilder
>
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 3/14/2005 6:08:02 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> > ronschreck(at)alltel.net writes:
> >
> > Can someone tell me why epanelbuilder locks up Internet Explorer every
> > time
> > I try to use the site? Am I doing something wrong? It even locks up
> > when I
> > try to access the link to their email.
> >
> >
> > I have the same problem.
> > d. preston
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder - Printing |
I have a program called "ScreenSeize" that I downloaded from the PC Magazine
website (www.pcmag.com) a while back. It allows you to copy any part of the
screen and then paste it into Word, PowerPoint, ... I usually grab the
whole panel, but you could also grab individual items like Bob did as well.
Add my kudos to Bill for epanelbuilder!
Dennis Glaeser
What I've done with some success is copy the various objects from
epanelbuilder (one at a time including the panel) and paste them into
"Power Point" . . . . they end up being larger in that environment.
Once you've pasted everything you need you can move them around much
like "epanelbuilder" . . . you can then save the panel as a .jpg
and/or print from "Power Point".
This has been a big help to me! Thank's to Bill for epanelbuilder!
Regards,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: teflon hose assembly problems |
sarg314 wrote:
> I'm just about ready to chuck it all and call Precision Hose Technology
> Inc., or somebody like them and cough up the money to get them all
> pre-made. The purpose if this email is to see if any one can give me
> any tips on how to assemble these things more reliably. Some lubricant
> on the nipple perhaps? Some obscure trick to get the hose to slip on
> over the nipple???
There is a bottle of STP oil treatment on my workbench; this is the
slimiest stuff known to man! :-) It is also great for lubricating hose
fittings during assembly. I dip the end of the hose and the inner
fitting in the STP just before assembly.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Tail Dragger Question... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
I am currently on the wing kit of an RV-7A and was wondering a few questions...
1. If I wanted to convert to a tail wheel at this point, it looks like the only
problem I would have is during the empennage stage drilling some
holes at the bottom of the vertical stabilizer that were specific to the nose wheel
configuration. Could I go back and redrill the holes for the
tail wheel configuration without re-doing the whole vertical stabilizer rear spar?
or would I need to replace the piece?
2. How much more on average is insurance on a tail dragger? (10%, 20%, 50%)? I
have no tail dragger time either...
3. Does resell value decrease/increase with a tail dragger? I heard it decreases
because fewer buyers are comfortable with it. Is this true?
how much does it really affect resellability?
I think that is it, I am just doing some initial feasibility investigation into
the possibility. Thanks.
- Matt Johnson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
Well,
rumour has it that the Dynon folks are soon to be releasing their new D10
EMS engine monitoring system. So far the only thing I can tell you about it
is that it's sweet little package that displays a lot of info. All of which
you can ignore because the audio will let you know when its time to pucker
up.
All limits are programmable, and everything measured can be alarmed via
light or audio.
It will sense
Tach
MAP
cht
egt
op
ot
fp
4 fuel levels
fuel flow
volts
amps
cat
tit
and few other programmable inputs like a contact for say "door closed" or
"gear down"
plus for those of you who have their EFIS it will display that data on this
screen, which is good for mounting it in a side by side configuration so the
copilot gets to play as well.
It will also have a data port so one can do data logging. Not yet quite sure
how that will work out in terms of format, but I think the goal will be to
use a spreadsheet to graph all that cool data.
It would be very cool if the EFIS could do this in a form that could then be
used to drive an EFIS simulator so one could review their last flight, both
in terms of flight parameters, but also engine parameters. The EFIS does
data log, but I don't think the simulator is available... hint hint.
Anyways, since I don't work for Dynon, and they haven't given me any
indication that it will be available on a specific date, to the general
market, all I can tell you is that the little bugger is really cool,,,,
oops, I mean looks like it will be really cool. Is really easy to,,,, oops,
I mean looks like it will be really easy to install, and if I were building
a new plane right now for day VFR I would buy both, with a steam ASI and
Altimeter in a cross pattern, and go flying.
Who needs all that other stuff. 4 holes, a few switches, and yank the pull
start cord... wheeeeeee
ta ta
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: More On lost power on takeopff |
In a message dated 3/14/05 10:54:35 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
cheathco(at)comcast.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco"
Thanks everyone for the responses. I am subsc to digest only to keep box
from overflowing so get each morn. my 6a has run Mogas since built, and have
gotten direct responses from Mogas burners that it is vaporlock problem, along
with tips on how to avoid it. My gas lines are insulated, but I think some way
of diverting some air to the fuel pump and carb would be a good idea. any
sugestions? charlie
Charlie,
The engine will run quite a while on the fuel in the float bowl -- several
seconds even at full power. Be sure that your tank is feeding during
acceleration by finding a place to get the tail down to about a 30 degree angle
and
see if it will still run OK -- while sitting still of course! Could the
fitting in the tank have come loose allowing the fuel to unport? I would think
that could only happen to one tank unless you are the unluckiest guy on earth.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In the paint shop)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc. |
Hi Guys,
As with many others on the List, I have explained many options and
techniques that can be used to finish your aircraft.
I would advise you to check the archives prior to asking your questions.
Many of the same questions were addressed just a few months ago.
Please don't take this the wrong way but, do a little research first.
If your question is still not satisfied, I would invite you to query
the List or e-mail those of us with some experience directly.
Just my 2 cents...
Jim Duckett N708JD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: teflon hose assembly problems |
Tom,
I'm not quite sure why you needed Teflon hose. I made some of my oil hoses
from the fittings and SS braided synthetic rubber hose that Vans sells. The
hose that I used was Aeroquip AE701. I'm not sure if it came from A/C Spruce
or Vans, actually. My success rate was 100% including testing them to 1000
PSI with a modified bottle jack for a pump, and using them on the plane. Ask
Vans for the instruction sheet. Someone else on the list suggested a grease
gun for a pressure source. "T" a gauge into the system, fill the hoses up
with motor oil and connect to the pump and test.
Sorry, if I missed some of this thread. Hoping to be of some help.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying for 72 hours, in paint shop now)
In a message dated 3/15/05 12:12:33 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
sarg314(at)comcast.net writes:
I'm just about ready to chuck it all and call Precision Hose Technology
Inc., or somebody like them and cough up the money to get them all
pre-made. The purpose if this email is to see if any one can give me
any tips on how to assemble these things more reliably. Some lubricant
on the nipple perhaps? Some obscure trick to get the hose to slip on
over the nipple???
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hasson" <hassonr(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Teflon hose assembly problems |
Dan,
All flex hoses used in aviation applications (except Teflon lined) have a
recommended service life, after which they should be replaced. Properly
assembled and tested Teflon lined hoses should last the life of the
airplane.
Bob
RV-6A
365 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: teflon hose assembly problems
Tom,
I'm not quite sure why you needed Teflon hose. I made some of my oil hoses
from the fittings and SS braided synthetic rubber hose that Vans sells. The
hose that I used was Aeroquip AE701. I'm not sure if it came from A/C
Spruce
or Vans, actually. My success rate was 100% including testing them to 1000
PSI with a modified bottle jack for a pump, and using them on the plane.
Ask
Vans for the instruction sheet. Someone else on the list suggested a
grease
gun for a pressure source. "T" a gauge into the system, fill the hoses up
with motor oil and connect to the pump and test.
Sorry, if I missed some of this thread. Hoping to be of some help.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying for 72 hours, in paint shop now)
In a message dated 3/15/05 12:12:33 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
sarg314(at)comcast.net writes:
I'm just about ready to chuck it all and call Precision Hose Technology
Inc., or somebody like them and cough up the money to get them all
pre-made. The purpose if this email is to see if any one can give me
any tips on how to assemble these things more reliably. Some lubricant
on the nipple perhaps? Some obscure trick to get the hose to slip on
over the nipple???
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RVers near Alice Springs, Australia? |
G'day Tim,
Don't know how much RV activity there would be arount the Alice,
particularly that time of year, being very warm. There is a bunch of RVer's
on both the East and West coasts, but you will be a long, long way from
there. FWIW - I may well be at the Alice with a group of home-builders
around July.
Cheers
Martin In Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Strange - coincidence? |
I was looking at the Sensenich ad in the April Kit Planes magazine today
and there was a promo from a builder/pilot lauding the Sensenich
prop...even mentioned it was an 85-inch unit....I thought that was
vaugely familiar, so I looked up his name in the Matronics archives and
in a posting by a person with that exact same name on Oct 21, 2001, the
poster complained about his 85-inch Sensenich prop, that he could not
get over 60% power while staying under 2,700-RPM.. But in the Sensenich
ad it was stated that the only other RV that could pass him was a 220-HP
RV4 .I sent an e-mail to the lister to see what had changed, and the
e-mail 'bounced' so I don't know what's going on. Very odd.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc. |
Jim Duckett wrote:
>
>Hi Guys,
>As with many others on the List, I have explained many options and
>techniques that can be used to finish your aircraft.
>I would advise you to check the archives prior to asking your questions.
> Many of the same questions were addressed just a few months ago.
>Please don't take this the wrong way but, do a little research first.
> If your question is still not satisfied, I would invite you to query
>the List or e-mail those of us with some experience directly.
>
>Just my 2 cents...
>
>Jim Duckett N708JD
>
Are there any computer gurus on the list that would be willing to set up
a wiki? Would Matt be willing to host one? It's kind of like a dynamic
FAQ file.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=wiki&btnG=Google+Search
http://wiki.org/wiki.cgi?WhatIsWiki
Once they are set up, anyone given privileges can alter/add/delete any
info at any time. This might sound chaotic, but the concept seems to
work pretty well. Anyone willing to do so can add info in a much more
concise format so we won't need to wade through dozens or hundreds or
even thousands of emails. The thousands of emails on primer could
probably be condensed to a few dozen overall opinions & have all bases
covered without the info being repeated.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in USA |
I contacted Wally Anderson of Synergyair builder assistance fellow. I have
to say Wally was very responsive and straight forward. It was good to get
his quick feed back on all my questions. Here is what he had to say on the
subject of partially building in the US then trying to ship to Canada.
"Hello Kevin
You have a major problem on your hands. They will not allow you to close
out any parts with out an inspection. I have asked a good friend in Canada
if there is a way around it and there seem to be no way. Sorry
You could get a lot done but you better talk to an inspector in your area
first.
Wally"
So partial completion is a no go. It's still not clear how a flying and
signed off experimental aircraft would be treated by the Canadian aviation
authority. Has anyone here ever been involved with transfering a US built,
flying and signed off experiment plane into Canada?
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
From: "steven dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in
USA
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 00:21:15 -0500
Also the faa inspectors won't get involved in any inspection except the
final. So incremental inspections would have to done via eaa tech
counselor or perhaps an AP mech. Which may not help meet the
requirements of Canadian inspection procedures. Fwiw, perhaps a dar
could help..
Steve d
N221rv, n223rv, n231rv(rv10)
>I'm looking at possibly getting some serious builder assistance from a
>fellow in the USA. I would be present and doing 90% of work.
>
>Anyone know how this will affect my ability to complete the kit in
Canada
>considering that most of the airframe will have been inspected by US
>inspectors. I honestly don't know how much I would get done down south
but
>I'm thinking between 75 - 95% again I would be present and hands on for
the
>entire building process.
>
The fact that you used builder assistance won't be a problem, as that
is now specifcally allowed in Canada. But I am almost certain that
you will need to have the inspections done by either Transport
Canada, or the MDRA inspectors.
The MDRA has been delegated to do inspections in Canada, so I
recommend that you contact them to discuss this:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
I've been reading the post about composites with much
interest. I own and operate Carbon Fiber Composites
and have been producing carbon fiber wheel pants for a
few years now. I use Mil Spec C-282 carbon fiber,
polyester gel coat and a compatiable resin system. I
have manufactured my own production quality molds for
pressure recovery style wheel pants that fit 5:00X5
wheels and tires. If anyone needs assistance with
glass work, you are welcome to call or email me any
time.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> USA |
| Subject: | Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in |
USA
>
>I contacted Wally Anderson of Synergyair builder assistance fellow. I have
>to say Wally was very responsive and straight forward. It was good to get
>his quick feed back on all my questions. Here is what he had to say on the
>subject of partially building in the US then trying to ship to Canada.
>
>"Hello Kevin
>
>You have a major problem on your hands. They will not allow you to close
>out any parts with out an inspection. I have asked a good friend in Canada
>if there is a way around it and there seem to be no way. Sorry
>
>You could get a lot done but you better talk to an inspector in your area
>first.
>
>Wally"
>
>So partial completion is a no go. It's still not clear how a flying and
>signed off experimental aircraft would be treated by the Canadian aviation
>authority. Has anyone here ever been involved with transfering a US built,
>flying and signed off experiment plane into Canada?
There was an exemption to the CARs that expired at the end of January
this year. I suspect it has been, or will be extended, or the CARs
will shortly be amended to enshine the info in the regs. The
exemption allowed foreign amateur-built aircraft to be imported into
Canada, if they met the Canadian requirements, and they had flown 100
hours. See paragraph # 7 in Part I:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/civilaviation/maintenance/aarpe/Recreational/AppendixC.htm
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Grand Rapids EFIS |
Hello, I live in North East Georgia and need to know if there are folks
that are currently flying the Grand Rapids EFIS system in the South
Carolina or North East Georgia area that I could see. I am working on
the instrument panel of my GlaStar. TIA. Lou Bello.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill(at)gcctv.com> |
Just received my GTX 327 and was wondering what kind of screwdriver unscrews the
latching mechanism for the tray??
Mark Phillips
Williamsville,Illinois
RV-6 Finishing (Wiring)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV6a extreem outside tire wear |
I pulled the pants to check brake pads, and found my tires on both sides were badly
worn on the outside. I made a somewhat primitive check and looks like I have
mucho toe in. I bought the plane flying. It had 40 hrs on it when I bought
it in Nov, and now just under 80. Much of that time has been landing/taxying.
I have tried several combinations of wording in archives, Only one mention back
in 1995. I am going to dig thru the manual, and would apreciate some advice
on how to fix this toe in problem.
Charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hasson" <hassonr(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | RV6a extreem outside tire wear |
Charlie,
Your problem may not be toe in. The original tires on my 6A lasted 100
hours and had the same wear pattern that you describe. I replaced them with
the best Michelin tire and there is no abnormal wear at 365 hours!!!
Bob
RV-6A
365 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Heathco
Subject: RV-List: RV6a extreem outside tire wear
I pulled the pants to check brake pads, and found my tires on both sides
were badly worn on the outside. I made a somewhat primitive check and looks
like I have mucho toe in. I bought the plane flying. It had 40 hrs on it
when I bought it in Nov, and now just under 80. Much of that time has been
landing/taxying. I have tried several combinations of wording in archives,
Only one mention back in 1995. I am going to dig thru the manual, and would
apreciate some advice on how to fix this toe in problem.
Charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need known good mag |
Charlie
You might want to consider having your magneto(s) overhauled by Howard
Lebersky. He is an old timer, who has been overhauling Mags since they were
"cutting edge" technology. He's in Okechobee, Florida. He charged my
friend, Eric Hensen, $120 per mag to rebuild. He does excellent work. Phone
number is
863-467-6464
Charlie Kuss
>
>I have deceided to go with one mag and one electronic for now on my RV6a,
>and both my mags are old and fear they are near end of service. I wonder
>if anyone might have a known good mag laying around from an elec
>conversion they want o sell. I now have bendix, could convert if have the
>wiring. my engine is O-320E2A Charlie heathco, reply to mail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GTX327 |
Small Allen wrench.
Dale
--- Mark/Micki Phillips wrote:
>
>
> Just received my GTX 327 and was wondering what kind
> of screwdriver unscrews the latching mechanism for
> the tray??
> Mark Phillips
> Williamsville,Illinois
> RV-6 Finishing (Wiring)
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GTX327 |
Mark,
It's not a screw, it's an allen head. I don't recall the size but it's about
an 1/8 of an inch.
Steve Struyk
RV-8 N842S (Res.)
St. Charles, MO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill(at)gcctv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin GTX327
>
> Just received my GTX 327 and was wondering what kind of screwdriver
> unscrews the latching mechanism for the tray??
> Mark Phillips
> Williamsville,Illinois
> RV-6 Finishing (Wiring)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: teflon hose assembly problems |
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>Tom,
>
>I'm not quite sure why you needed Teflon hose.
>
>
Dan:
It's not terribly compelling, but the teflon stuff has a somewhat
better high temperature performance specification (450 F) than the
synthetic rubber and is chemically impervious to virtually everything.
Should the fuel composition change (as it will in 2009, I think) no
conceivable additive will affect the teflon. The synthetic rubber hose
is almost, but not quite as tough in this respect.
That said, the teflon has so far been a major pain in the butt.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6a extreem outside tire wear |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV6a extreem outside tire wear
>
> I pulled the pants to check brake pads, and found my tires on both sides
> were badly worn on the outside. I made a somewhat primitive check and
> looks like I have mucho toe in. I bought the plane flying. It had 40 hrs
> on it when I bought it in Nov, and now just under 80. Much of that time
> has been landing/taxying. I have tried several combinations of wording in
> archives, Only one mention back in 1995. I am going to dig thru the
> manual, and would apreciate some advice on how to fix this toe in problem.
> Charlie heathco
>
Charlie,
The outside of the tire wears more on almost every taildragger RV I've seen.
Part of my condition inspection is rotating the tires to balance out this
wear pattern.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Lighting |
Mickey,
Someone else asked this question a few months ago. The answer is the same
now, as then. Buy the lens from Vans. Part number LN A612. The price has
gone up from $18 (I bought mine 2 months ago) to $20 each. See
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1110942778-448-594&browse=lighting&product=strobe_parts
Vans doesn't carry the retaining ring. Those you buy from ACS. Part # A628,
page 408 for $17.70 each. See
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/whelenstrobeparts2.php
Charlie Kuss
>
>Hi,
>
>I didn't know the strobes needed lenses over them. I was
>just planning on popping the strobe head into the sheared
>wingtip light area and be done with it. Is the one you
>are talking about this one: Part Number = LN A612 LENS,CLEAR
>
>and the ACS part: WHELEN LENS RETAINER A426 $28.300
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>Charlie Kuss wrote:
> >
> > Scott,
> > For a 3 strobe system, the Nova 90 watt unit is the one that is the
> equal
> > of the Whelen system (as regards power). This unit exceeds the light
> output
> > currently required by the FAA. You will need to install the Whelen strobe
> > lens and retainers over the strobe heads (aka bulbs). Vans has the best
> > price on the lens, go to ACS for the lens retainers. The lens are needed
> > with both the Whelen and Nova units. The FAA wants the majority of the
> > light to be biased in the horizontal plane. That is accomplished via the
> > lens. FYI Nova replacement bulbs are $24.95 each, versus $59.95 for the
> > Whelen replacements.
> > Charlie Kuss
> >
> >
> >>
> >> All, I'm fighting tooth and nail trying to resist buying the $780 system
> >>6 strobe unit from vans. I am looking at getting some recycled nav
> >>lights, and just installing nova-type strobes. I know the regulations
> >>for night flight are somewhat specific in the visibility of the strobes,
> >>and I had a few questions: * Assuming I go with a 3 strobe scenario
> >>(wingtips and tail), is it a problem if the strobe head is on the forward
> >>facing portion of the sheared wingtip (nav light would be on portion
> >>parallel to fuselage)?* For those using the NOVA supply, what is the
> >>preferred output (60, 80, or 90)?* Anyone with a "seasoned" similar setup
> >>care to comment on the reliability of the NOVA solution (as opposed to
> >>Whelan)? Thanks,Scott7A
> >>
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 Wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Thorne" <rv7a(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator Movement after trim cable installation |
I installed my trim cable today. All seems well except that the elevator now does
not freely drop to the down position. It will go to the limit smoothly but
you can feel the stiffness the cable has added when moving it by hand. You
can't feel it through the stick. Seems every airplane I've ever preflight had
free movement up and down so I wondering if mine is normal or something needs
to be changed. Couldn't find anything in the archives that seemed to relate
to this issue.
Jim Thorne
RV-7A QB
CHD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AFM Supplement for GPS IFR - Additional Question |
What constitutes an FAA approved flight Manual supplement for an IFR GPS in
an experimental? The approved supplement that comes with GPS sets lists the
certified aircraft to which the STC applies. Since it doesn't cover our RVs
do we need to request specific approval from someone within the FAA? Do we
need to make any mods to the supplement provided such as list our RV
aircraft in the supplement?
Thanks
Tom Olson
N298TC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GTX327 |
Mark,
The latching mechanism uses a hex drive tool. It is 3/32. It is one of
the smaller size hex wrenches. The 430, 327 and 340 all use the same wrench.
Good luck,
Richard Dudley
6A flying
Mark/Micki Phillips wrote:
>
>Just received my GTX 327 and was wondering what kind of screwdriver unscrews the
latching mechanism for the tray??
>Mark Phillips
>Williamsville,Illinois
>RV-6 Finishing (Wiring)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hamilton McClymont" <ham(at)hammcc.com> |
| Subject: | Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance in USA |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
USA
Subject: RE: RV-List: Canadian interested in gettng builder assistance
in USA
>-->
>
>I contacted Wally Anderson of Synergyair builder assistance fellow. I
>have to say Wally was very responsive and straight forward. It was
>good to get his quick feed back on all my questions. Here is what he
>had to say on the subject of partially building in the US then trying
>to ship to Canada.
>
>"Hello Kevin
>
>You have a major problem on your hands. They will not allow you to
>close out any parts with out an inspection. I have asked a good friend
>in Canada if there is a way around it and there seem to be no way.
>Sorry
>
>You could get a lot done but you better talk to an inspector in your
>area first.
>
>Wally"
>
>So partial completion is a no go. It's still not clear how a flying
>and signed off experimental aircraft would be treated by the Canadian
>aviation authority. Has anyone here ever been involved with
>transfering a US built, flying and signed off experiment plane into
>Canada?
There was an exemption to the CARs that expired at the end of January
this year. I suspect it has been, or will be extended, or the CARs
will shortly be amended to enshine the info in the regs. The
exemption allowed foreign amateur-built aircraft to be imported into
Canada, if they met the Canadian requirements, and they had flown 100
hours. See paragraph # 7 in Part I:
http://www.tc.gc.ca/civilaviation/maintenance/aarpe/Recreational/Appendi
xC.htm
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
The exemption was renewed (finally). I have a word file of the document
I can email if anyone wants it.
Ham McClymont
RV-4 C-GWYR
Richmond, BC
www.hammcc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Movement after trim cable installation |
Jim Thorne wrote:
>
>I installed my trim cable today. All seems well except that the elevator now
does not freely drop to the down position. It will go to the limit smoothly but
you can feel the stiffness the cable has added when moving it by hand. You
can't feel it through the stick. Seems every airplane I've ever preflight had
free movement up and down so I wondering if mine is normal or something needs
to be changed. Couldn't find anything in the archives that seemed to relate
to this issue.
>
>Jim Thorne
>RV-7A QB
>CHD
>
>
Mine is the same way. I think they loosen up after they are used some.
Mines not flying yet.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Hi Brian,
Thanks for the info. After a bit of glass work, and
lots of sanding and filing, I've got the two halves
of my wheel pants fitting together. Max gap between
them is less than 0.020", which may sound impressive,
but you can still see the gap. Close enough.
I was a bit surprised that whomever made these didn't
just cut them straight, so that they would fit nicely.
Must be part of the famous "51%".
I don't remember where I heard it, but someone said
when you are working with composites, remember that
impatience is the enemy. I kept repeating this over
and over as I was sanding and filing, and it helped!
Besides, I'm waiting for my engine, so I don't have
much else to work on.
Best regards,
Mickey
Brian Alley wrote:
>
> I've been reading the post about composites with much
> interest. I own and operate Carbon Fiber Composites
> and have been producing carbon fiber wheel pants for a
> few years now. I use Mil Spec C-282 carbon fiber,
> polyester gel coat and a compatiable resin system. I
> have manufactured my own production quality molds for
> pressure recovery style wheel pants that fit 5:00X5
> wheels and tires. If anyone needs assistance with
> glass work, you are welcome to call or email me any
> time.
>
> BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
> CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
> 101 Caroline Circle
> Hurricane, WV 25526
> 304-562-6800 home
>
>
> How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
>
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick Nafsinger" <nick(at)creteaviation.com> |
Should be a 3/32 Allen Wrench.
Nick
Park Rapids Avionics
301 Airport Rd.
Hwy 71 South
Park Rapids, MN
218.255.2768
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark/Micki
Phillips
Subject: RV-List: Garmin GTX327
Just received my GTX 327 and was wondering what kind of screwdriver
unscrews the latching mechanism for the tray??
Mark Phillips
Williamsville,Illinois
RV-6 Finishing (Wiring)
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Do you mean something like this??
http://www.flightperformance.com/flight_performance_software-EFIS.htm
James
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
| server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
| Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 11:00 AM
| To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
| Subject: RV-List: Dynon Report
|
|
| Well,
|
| rumour has it that the Dynon folks are soon to be releasing their new D10
| EMS engine monitoring system. So far the only thing I can tell you about
{SNIP}
| It would be very cool if the EFIS could do this in a form that could then
| be
| used to drive an EFIS simulator so one could review their last flight,
| both
| in terms of flight parameters, but also engine parameters. The EFIS does
| data log, but I don't think the simulator is available... hint hint.
|
{SNIP}
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Movement after trim cable installation |
Jim, I think that is fairly normal. My elevator will move smoothly up and
down and gravity will cause it to droop slightly - but its not as light as
minus the cable.
Ed A
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Thorne" <rv7a(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Elevator Movement after trim cable installation
>
> I installed my trim cable today. All seems well except that the elevator
now does not freely drop to the down position. It will go to the limit
smoothly but you can feel the stiffness the cable has added when moving it
by hand. You can't feel it through the stick. Seems every airplane I've
ever preflight had free movement up and down so I wondering if mine is
normal or something needs to be changed. Couldn't find anything in the
archives that seemed to relate to this issue.
>
> Jim Thorne
> RV-7A QB
> CHD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
Mickey, Composites work is like any other task
building an airplane. Quality work is base on the time
spent seeking perfection. Your .020 gap on your wheel
pants is just about right as you will need a small gap
to allow for paint. Best wishes.
--- Mickey Coggins wrote:
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AFM Supplement for GPS IFR - Additional Question |
Subject: Re: RV-List: AFM Supplement for GPS IFR - Additional Question
>What constitutes an FAA approved flight Manual supplement for an IFR GPS in
>an experimental? The approved supplement that comes with GPS sets lists the
>certified aircraft to which the STC applies. Since it doesn't cover our RVs
>do we need to request specific approval from someone within the FAA? Do we
>need to make any mods to the supplement provided such as list our RV
>aircraft in the supplement?
STC's don't apply to experimentals. Just delete the reference to STC's and the
aircraft referenced. Also, the FAA doesn't approve flight Manuals or Supplements
for Experimentals.
You need to verify that your GPS installation performs as required for IFR maneuvers
- gives correct lat/lon, data base and waypoints are synchronized to where
you are, that contained approaches are consistent with the paper charts, etc.
Then make a log book entry attesting to proper performance of the GPS, sign
it, date it, and include your repairman's certificate - much like you did when
you certified that phase I was completed and that your plane meets requirements
for night and IFR flight as required by your operating limitations.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Need known good mag |
Remember, Both Bendix and Slick have a 500 hour remove, open and inspect
time.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Need known good mag
>
> Charlie
> You might want to consider having your magneto(s) overhauled by Howard
> Lebersky. He is an old timer, who has been overhauling Mags since they
> were
> "cutting edge" technology. He's in Okechobee, Florida. He charged my
> friend, Eric Hensen, $120 per mag to rebuild. He does excellent work.
> Phone
> number is
> 863-467-6464
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
>>
>>I have deceided to go with one mag and one electronic for now on my RV6a,
>>and both my mags are old and fear they are near end of service. I wonder
>>if anyone might have a known good mag laying around from an elec
>>conversion they want o sell. I now have bendix, could convert if have the
>>wiring. my engine is O-320E2A Charlie heathco, reply to mail
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Movement after trim cable installation |
In a message dated 3/16/05 7:11:48 AM Pacific Standard Time, rv7a(at)cox.net
writes:
<< I installed my trim cable today. All seems well except that the elevator
now does not freely drop to the down position. It will go to the limit
smoothly but you can feel the stiffness the cable has added when moving it by hand.
You can't feel it through the stick. >>
Sounds just like mine and others with manual trim that I have noticed. How
could it be otherwise when you think about it, the deflection of the trim cable
has to add some small degree of "stiffness" to the system? It is not
noticeable in flight to me, and FWIW I am very happy with the manual trim.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc.) |
I think it is a great idea, and would add a lot of value
to the RV community. I would be happy to contribute where
I can.
Mickey
>>Are there any computer gurus on the list that would be willing to set up
>>a wiki? Would Matt be willing to host one? It's kind of like a dynamic
>>FAQ file.
>> ...
> Might there be real interest in this? Or is it one of those "sounds cool"
> things that people won't *really* invest time/energy into? My experience
> has been that if you get past a certain critical mass of activity, the
> Wiki can have real value.
...
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc.) |
On Wed Mar 16 15:31:35 2005, John Spicer wrote :
>If you guys are serious about setting up a wiki I could potentially host it on
>the existing www.rivetbangers.com server/site. I think it would fold in well
>with the current support info, document share, etc that is currently in use. Is
>there any interest in that?
There might well be a good fit here. A lot would depend upon available
resources on the host site. Ideally it would be a Linux based system
with support for PHP and MySQL. Can you shoot me (off-list, so we don't
bore the good folks here with geek-details) information about the host
environment?
Even if we don't co-host the services I think there is a lot of synergy
and linking between the two could well make a lot of sense. Lets keep this
possibility in mind as we figure out what we want to do.
-- Dwight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling EGT probe holes |
List:
This is going to expose how lazy I have gotten, but here goes. I need to drill
the holes for my EGT probes and I have already installed and torqued down my
exhaust system.
Do you think it is a no-no to drill the holes with the exhaust on the engine?
Two things come to mind....First I will leave some burs on the inside of the pipe
and second, chips will fall into the exhaust.
The probe being secured by a hose clamp on the outside of the exhaust will make
the burs less of a factor. The fact that all the chips will fall down into the
depths of the exhaust and eventually be blown out on first startup makes me
feel a little more comfortable there.
So do I go ahead and drill or bite the bullet and take the exhaust off??
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
finishing up engine stuff
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Spicer" <spike(at)rivetbangers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc.) |
Emailing you off list....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dwight Frye" <dwight(at)openweave.org>
Subject: Re: RV-Wiki (was: RV-List: Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc.)
>
> On Wed Mar 16 15:31:35 2005, John Spicer wrote :
> >If you guys are serious about setting up a wiki I could potentially host it
on
> >the existing www.rivetbangers.com server/site. I think it would fold in well
> >with the current support info, document share, etc that is currently in use.
Is
> >there any interest in that?
>
> There might well be a good fit here. A lot would depend upon available
> resources on the host site. Ideally it would be a Linux based system
> with support for PHP and MySQL. Can you shoot me (off-list, so we don't
> bore the good folks here with geek-details) information about the host
> environment?
>
> Even if we don't co-host the services I think there is a lot of synergy
> and linking between the two could well make a lot of sense. Lets keep this
> possibility in mind as we figure out what we want to do.
>
> -- Dwight
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AFM Supplement for GPS IFR - Additional Question |
By chance, the Richmond, Virginia FSDO Principal Avionics Inspector was at the
airport for lunch today.
He said: Experimental Aircraft!! No FAA approved flight Manual supplement for
an IFR GPS is required for experiment aircraft. Just state in your certificate
that the plane will be operated IFR. You still need the altimeter/transponder
inspections.
Since it does not cost anything, I have down loaded the "sample" FAA approved
flight Manual supplement for the Apollo GX60 and will include it in my AFM.
Richard Reynolds
tcolson wrote:
>
> What constitutes an FAA approved flight Manual supplement for an IFR GPS in
> an experimental? The approved supplement that comes with GPS sets lists the
> certified aircraft to which the STC applies. Since it doesn't cover our RVs
> do we need to request specific approval from someone within the FAA? Do we
> need to make any mods to the supplement provided such as list our RV
> aircraft in the supplement?
>
> Thanks
> Tom Olson
> N298TC
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Ernst" <rernst(at)numinagroup.com> |
I just bought a pair of ACS swivel air vents from Aircraft Spruce (the kind
that cost about $55 each), and am unsure how they will connect to SCAT
tubing. I am just working on the canopy and panel on my -6A, so I haven't
used any SCAT tubing yet, but it seems to me that I need 3/8" or more of a
flange protruding from the back of the vent so I can get the SCAT and a hose
clamp firmly seated. The ACS air vent only has a little shoulder around
3/16" long. Am I missing a piece? Neither ACS nor Aircraft Spruce has been
of any help.
Also, the mounting flange on these vents is curious. There are four
countersunk mounting holes on the flange, so it must be designed to be
mounted on top of some underlying panel. What's curious is that the back
side of the flange, the side that contacts the panel, is chamfered, not the
front side that you would see. Again, am I missing something?
Rick
Richard Ernst
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACS air vents |
you need to look again.. at acs
EYEBALL AIRVENT ADAPTER 13-00833 $13.85
this may be too big but I think this is what you need.. its 2" and has more
information about it..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Ernst" <rernst(at)numinagroup.com>
Subject: RV-List: ACS air vents
>
> I just bought a pair of ACS swivel air vents from Aircraft Spruce (the
> kind
> that cost about $55 each), and am unsure how they will connect to SCAT
> tubing. I am just working on the canopy and panel on my -6A, so I haven't
> used any SCAT tubing yet, but it seems to me that I need 3/8" or more of a
> flange protruding from the back of the vent so I can get the SCAT and a
> hose
> clamp firmly seated. The ACS air vent only has a little shoulder around
> 3/16" long. Am I missing a piece? Neither ACS nor Aircraft Spruce has
> been
> of any help.
>
>
> Also, the mounting flange on these vents is curious. There are four
> countersunk mounting holes on the flange, so it must be designed to be
> mounted on top of some underlying panel. What's curious is that the back
> side of the flange, the side that contacts the panel, is chamfered, not
> the
> front side that you would see. Again, am I missing something?
>
>
> Rick
>
>
> Richard Ernst
>
> RV-6A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Displaying Airworthiness Cert. |
You may remove the Ops Limits form the pink A/W cert. The A/W cert is the
only thing you need to display, although most people stick their
registration in the same pouch. The Ops limits and W&B can be put anywhere
inside the aircraft. Just remember that they must be on board the aircraft
wheneveits operated.
Mike Robertson
>From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Displaying Airworthiness Cert.
>Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 13:44:20 EST
>
>
>Howdy!
>
>Working on the interior of my -6A and need to find a permanent resting
>place
>for the pink slip, so I'm looking for some ideas how to handle this so it
>looks nice, is relatively out of the way, but still meets FAR
>91.203:"...displayed
>at the cabin or cockpit entrance so that it is legible to passengers or
>crew." Apparently the registration and operating limitations (all 5
>pages),
>Program Letter, Phase 1 test area description (copy of sectional) and W&B
>must be
>aboard, but not in view, but the whole package is stapled to the pink slip,
>which has a note on the bottom "SEE ATTACHED OPERATING LIMITATIONS". So
>I'm
>guessing I can't separate the other stuff from the pink slip and have to
>figure out
>some way to stuff everything into some kind of nice display case for
>attachment in the cockpit somewhere. Could some of y'all let me know how
>you did it
>(off-list or links to fotos would be great!)
>
>Also, CAN the op-lims & other stuff be separated from the pink slip so it
>can
>be "framed" and displayed by itself? The op-lims, W&B & other stuff could
>go
>in a zip-lock along with the POH (oops- Airplane Flight Manual!) and stuck
>in
>the glove locker?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Mark Phillips N51PW, 155 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling EGT probe holes |
Make sure you don,t put the probes where they will be
in the way of the spark plugs.
Dale Mitchell RV-8A MN wing.
--- Jeff Orear wrote:
>
>
> List:
>
> This is going to expose how lazy I have gotten, but
> here goes. I need to drill the holes for my EGT
> probes and I have already installed and torqued down
> my exhaust system.
>
> Do you think it is a no-no to drill the holes with
> the exhaust on the engine? Two things come to
> mind....First I will leave some burs on the inside
> of the pipe and second, chips will fall into the
> exhaust.
>
> The probe being secured by a hose clamp on the
> outside of the exhaust will make the burs less of a
> factor. The fact that all the chips will fall down
> into the depths of the exhaust and eventually be
> blown out on first startup makes me feel a little
> more comfortable there.
>
> So do I go ahead and drill or bite the bullet and
> take the exhaust off??
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P
> finishing up engine stuff
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling EGT probe holes |
I have done it before. Unless your engine is upside down and chips will
fall into the engine I don't see a problem. I used a scraper that would get
inside the hole for getting the burs off. I was concerned about the thin
burr getting red hot, but it would probably just burn off and not be a
problem anyway.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Orear
Subject: RV-List: Drilling EGT probe holes
List:
This is going to expose how lazy I have gotten, but here goes. I need to
drill the holes for my EGT probes and I have already installed and torqued
down my exhaust system.
Do you think it is a no-no to drill the holes with the exhaust on the
engine? Two things come to mind....First I will leave some burs on the
inside of the pipe and second, chips will fall into the exhaust.
The probe being secured by a hose clamp on the outside of the exhaust will
make the burs less of a factor. The fact that all the chips will fall down
into the depths of the exhaust and eventually be blown out on first startup
makes me feel a little more comfortable there.
So do I go ahead and drill or bite the bullet and take the exhaust off??
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
finishing up engine stuff
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling EGT probe holes |
Thanks Dale. I made sure of that when I located the holes. These probes
are from Rocky Mountain Instruments and have a 90 degree bend to them after
the probe exits the exhaust pipe. Makes it just alittle easier to avoid
things like the plugs.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
finishing up engine stuff
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Mitchell" <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling EGT probe holes
>
> Make sure you don,t put the probes where they will be
> in the way of the spark plugs.
> Dale Mitchell RV-8A MN wing.
>
> --- Jeff Orear wrote:
>>
>>
>> List:
>>
>> This is going to expose how lazy I have gotten, but
>> here goes. I need to drill the holes for my EGT
>> probes and I have already installed and torqued down
>> my exhaust system.
>>
>> Do you think it is a no-no to drill the holes with
>> the exhaust on the engine? Two things come to
>> mind....First I will leave some burs on the inside
>> of the pipe and second, chips will fall into the
>> exhaust.
>>
>> The probe being secured by a hose clamp on the
>> outside of the exhaust will make the burs less of a
>> factor. The fact that all the chips will fall down
>> into the depths of the exhaust and eventually be
>> blown out on first startup makes me feel a little
>> more comfortable there.
>>
>> So do I go ahead and drill or bite the bullet and
>> take the exhaust off??
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Jeff Orear
>> RV6A N782P
>> finishing up engine stuff
>> Peshtigo, WI
>>
>>
>>
>> Contributions
>> any other
>> Forums.
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling EGT probe holes |
I havent done them myself, but know that they have been done while exaust in
place in most cases.Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Drilling EGT probe holes
List:
This is going to expose how lazy I have gotten, but here goes. I need to
drill the holes for my EGT probes and I have already installed and torqued
down my exhaust system.
Do you think it is a no-no to drill the holes with the exhaust on the
engine? Two things come to mind....First I will leave some burs on the
inside of the pipe and second, chips will fall into the exhaust.
The probe being secured by a hose clamp on the outside of the exhaust will
make the burs less of a factor. The fact that all the chips will fall down
into the depths of the exhaust and eventually be blown out on first startup
makes me feel a little more comfortable there.
So do I go ahead and drill or bite the bullet and take the exhaust off??
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
finishing up engine stuff
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling EGT probe holes |
I drilled them in place with no problems so far.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Orear [mailto:jorear(at)new.rr.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 3:59 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Drilling EGT probe holes
>
>
> List:
>
> This is going to expose how lazy I have gotten, but here
> goes. I need to drill the holes for my EGT probes and I have
> already installed and torqued down my exhaust system.
>
> Do you think it is a no-no to drill the holes with the
> exhaust on the engine? Two things come to mind....First I
> will leave some burs on the inside of the pipe and second,
> chips will fall into the exhaust.
>
> The probe being secured by a hose clamp on the outside of the
> exhaust will make the burs less of a factor. The fact that
> all the chips will fall down into the depths of the exhaust
> and eventually be blown out on first startup makes me feel a
> little more comfortable there.
>
> So do I go ahead and drill or bite the bullet and take the
> exhaust off??
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P
> finishing up engine stuff
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
> ========
> Matronics Forums.
> ========
> ========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Displaying Airworthiness Cert. |
W&B has to be on board during operations?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Displaying Airworthiness Cert.
>
> You may remove the Ops Limits form the pink A/W cert. The A/W cert is the
> only thing you need to display, although most people stick their
> registration in the same pouch. The Ops limits and W&B can be put
> anywhere
> inside the aircraft. Just remember that they must be on board the
> aircraft
> wheneveits operated.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>>From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: Displaying Airworthiness Cert.
>>Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 13:44:20 EST
>>
>>
>>Howdy!
>>
>>Working on the interior of my -6A and need to find a permanent resting
>>place
>>for the pink slip, so I'm looking for some ideas how to handle this so it
>>looks nice, is relatively out of the way, but still meets FAR
>>91.203:"...displayed
>>at the cabin or cockpit entrance so that it is legible to passengers or
>>crew." Apparently the registration and operating limitations (all 5
>>pages),
>>Program Letter, Phase 1 test area description (copy of sectional) and W&B
>>must be
>>aboard, but not in view, but the whole package is stapled to the pink
>>slip,
>>which has a note on the bottom "SEE ATTACHED OPERATING LIMITATIONS". So
>>I'm
>>guessing I can't separate the other stuff from the pink slip and have to
>>figure out
>>some way to stuff everything into some kind of nice display case for
>>attachment in the cockpit somewhere. Could some of y'all let me know how
>>you did it
>>(off-list or links to fotos would be great!)
>>
>>Also, CAN the op-lims & other stuff be separated from the pink slip so it
>>can
>>be "framed" and displayed by itself? The op-lims, W&B & other stuff could
>>go
>>in a zip-lock along with the POH (oops- Airplane Flight Manual!) and stuck
>>in
>>the glove locker?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Mark Phillips N51PW, 155 hours
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator |
FOR SALE:
Mid-Continent T100-7 turn coordinator + AMP TC connector
Purchased brand new from Chief Aircraft in 2003.
Retails for $509 + $19 for the connector.
In perfect working order, has worked flawlessly for 400+ hours.
Will sell for $375 including the already-wired TC connector.
Photo here:
http://chiefaircraft.com/Aircraft/FlightInstruments/Images/MDCT_T100-7.jpg
Reason for selling: upgrading my Digitrak to a Pictorial Pilot,
consolidating the two instruments.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ACS air vents |
speaking of air vents... I just installed one of my new Experimental Air
eyeball vents... Man is this thing nice... It fits a standard 2 1/8
instrument hole, and it fits the standard scat tube... Went for a short
flight tonight and no leaks!
http://www.experimentalair.com/products.html - scroll down the page a bit...
It looks GOOD too... One in, two to go...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "sportpilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: ACS air vents
you need to look again.. at acs
EYEBALL AIRVENT ADAPTER 13-00833 $13.85
this may be too big but I think this is what you need.. its 2" and has more
information about it..
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Ernst" <rernst(at)numinagroup.com>
Subject: RV-List: ACS air vents
>
> I just bought a pair of ACS swivel air vents from Aircraft Spruce (the
> kind
> that cost about $55 each), and am unsure how they will connect to SCAT
> tubing. I am just working on the canopy and panel on my -6A, so I haven't
> used any SCAT tubing yet, but it seems to me that I need 3/8" or more of a
> flange protruding from the back of the vent so I can get the SCAT and a
> hose
> clamp firmly seated. The ACS air vent only has a little shoulder around
> 3/16" long. Am I missing a piece? Neither ACS nor Aircraft Spruce has
> been
> of any help.
>
>
> Also, the mounting flange on these vents is curious. There are four
> countersunk mounting holes on the flange, so it must be designed to be
> mounted on top of some underlying panel. What's curious is that the back
> side of the flange, the side that contacts the panel, is chamfered, not
> the
> front side that you would see. Again, am I missing something?
>
>
> Rick
>
>
> Richard Ernst
>
> RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling EGT probe holes |
In a message dated 03/16/2005 3:03:29 PM Central Standard Time,
jorear(at)new.rr.com writes:
So do I go ahead and drill or bite the bullet and take the exhaust off??
>>>
Hi Jeff- fer whut its wurth, that's what I did- go ahead and FIRE THAT MAMMY
JAMMY UP!
(You are using a High Country exhaust, no? If not, all betz are off~ 8-))
From The PossumWorks in TN - Mark Phillips, N51PW & 153 hours, burz looked
like anti-missile chaff on fire-up!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator |
I'm tempted, mine is grinding away slowly indicating turns and leaning in
level flight like a drunken sailor.
But the look I'm trying to hang onto in my panel is the '60's RCAF Tutor,
surely the trailing edge of technology by now, so I hope to find another
T&B.
SCott in VAncouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: FOR SALE: Turn Coordinator
>
> FOR SALE:
> Mid-Continent T100-7 turn coordinator + AMP TC connector
> Purchased brand new from Chief Aircraft in 2003.
> Retails for $509 + $19 for the connector.
> In perfect working order, has worked flawlessly for 400+ hours.
>
> Will sell for $375 including the already-wired TC connector.
>
> Photo here:
> http://chiefaircraft.com/Aircraft/FlightInstruments/Images/MDCT_T100-7.jpg
>
> Reason for selling: upgrading my Digitrak to a Pictorial Pilot,
> consolidating the two instruments.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | re: Displaying Airworthiness Cert. |
Mark,
It was with some interest that I noted your (timely) question because I too am
facing the same situation with my recently won airworthiness certificate. I pondered
a tasteful and appropriate way to display it. Unfortunately for me, some
of the responses to your original query morphed into another dimension of thought
rendering your basic question.....for the most part .....unanswered. Pressing
on in my personal search, and knowing I wanted to keep the look simple,
I ended up at Office Max and purchased a 4X6 photograph holder equipped with
a (stiff) metallic back. The Airworthiness Certificate fits into this thing
almost perfectly. I will affix velcro "buttons" to the four corners on the back
of the holder and display the mandatory document high up on the sidewall on
the pilot side of the baggage compartment. I suppose the operating limitations
and W&B documents *could* fit into the same pouch if I reduced them on a copying
machine, but have elected to store those full si
ze and
(legally essential) documents elsewhere in the airplane.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" "finished, not yet flying"
Working on the interior of my -6A and need to find a permanent resting place
for the pink slip, so I'm looking for some ideas how to handle this..............snip......................
and have to figure out some way to stuff everything
into some kind of nice display case for
attachment in the cockpit somewhere. Could some of y'all let me know how you did
it
Thanks!
Mark Phillips N51PW, 155 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Carburator Control |
"LarryRobertHelming"
<lhelming@s...> wrote:
>
> I have my TMX O-360 Mattituck engine and did my first start up. After this,
we did some checking and found the Van's FWF supplied push/pull control that travels
2" does not take the carb to full open AND full closed. The travel is
just short about 1/4" or so. Or the carb arm is too long. I found, if I set
it for full throttle, the idle is 1200. NO GOOD.. The carb is a Precision model
MA-4-5. The distance from center of hole to center of hole in the arm is 1.75".
Van's aircraft advises that I should connect control to middle hole. Well,
I only have one hole. Is there a suggestion or recommendation for this condition.
Also, I seem to lack a bit of travel to get the mixture to go from
full rich stop and full lean stop.
>
> Larry Helming in Indiana
From: CameronKurth
Subject: [lycoming] Re: Carburetor Control
I had to drill a hole pretty close to the pivot to make the controls work. Everybody
else I know had to do the same thing.
Cam
>>
Cam: thanks for your reply. I'd be interested in knowing the length of center
of hole to center of hole on your modified arm to get it to work?
It seems to me the most elegant solution would be to use a throttle arm that is
by design the correct distance between the holes OR replace the push/pull control
with one that travels farther. Perhaps Precision expects us to use a different
throttle cable than the standard travel length of 2"? Or YES -- they
want us to take their beautifully machined part and do surgery on it to do a custom
job. If that is the case, at least they made it too long.
With the p/p cable firmly installed AND no desire to rip it out and replace it,
is there a supplier for buying a arm to fit the carb with hole to hole length
of 1.5" (I'm guessing here on what would be correct length) to replace the 1.75"
as supplied with the carb? In using Cam's method of drilling a hole in the
arm, I wonder -- does drilling a hole to shorten the hole to hole length do
anything to the certification of the carb or the warranty? Indiana Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV6a wheel alignment |
I have read everything I can find re wheel/axil alignment (not much, but mucho
info on the RV6 in my RV6A builders manual), and have concluded that if it was
not done correctly when the plane was built Im SOL. Anybody beeen able to change
it, or tried and couldnt?? charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6a wheel alignment |
Charlie, put the airplane on some smooth, flat concrete. Lay a large sheet
of paper in front of each of the main tires, and roll the plane over it and
watch what happens to the paper. That might tell you if the alignment is
truly far out of whack. You would want to have someone else with a 6A try
the same for comparison.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 584 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
> I have read everything I can find re wheel/axil alignment
> (not much, but mucho info on the RV6 in my RV6A builders
> manual), and have concluded that if it was not done correctly
> when the plane was built Im SOL. Anybody beeen able to change
> it, or tried and couldnt?? charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburator Control |
Larry, Vans wont admit it, but the throttle throw is too short, My Oh carb
did have 3 hols in the arm, and the angle had to be changed to get it to
work in the top hole. (takes a harder push to move it fully) Previous carb
was fasened to the center hole, and wasnt opening it fully. charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: RV-List: Carburator Control
"LarryRobertHelming"
<lhelming@s...> wrote:
>
> I have my TMX O-360 Mattituck engine and did my first start up. After
> this, we did some checking and found the Van's FWF supplied push/pull
> control that travels 2" does not take the carb to full open AND full
> closed. The travel is just short about 1/4" or so. Or the carb arm is
> too long. I found, if I set it for full throttle, the idle is 1200. NO
> GOOD.. The carb is a Precision model MA-4-5. The distance from center of
> hole to center of hole in the arm is 1.75". Van's aircraft advises that I
> should connect control to middle hole. Well, I only have one hole. Is
> there a suggestion or recommendation for this condition. Also, I seem to
> lack a bit of travel to get the mixture to go from full rich stop and full
> lean stop.
>
> Larry Helming in Indiana
From: CameronKurth
Subject: [lycoming] Re: Carburetor Control
I had to drill a hole pretty close to the pivot to make the controls work.
Everybody else I know had to do the same thing.
Cam
>>
Cam: thanks for your reply. I'd be interested in knowing the length of
center of hole to center of hole on your modified arm to get it to work?
It seems to me the most elegant solution would be to use a throttle arm that
is by design the correct distance between the holes OR replace the push/pull
control with one that travels farther. Perhaps Precision expects us to use
a different throttle cable than the standard travel length of 2"? Or YES --
they want us to take their beautifully machined part and do surgery on it to
do a custom job. If that is the case, at least they made it too long.
With the p/p cable firmly installed AND no desire to rip it out and replace
it, is there a supplier for buying a arm to fit the carb with hole to hole
length of 1.5" (I'm guessing here on what would be correct length) to
replace the 1.75" as supplied with the carb? In using Cam's method of
drilling a hole in the arm, I wonder -- does drilling a hole to shorten the
hole to hole length do anything to the certification of the carb or the
warranty? Indiana Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6a wheel alignment |
Alex I assume the paper whould scrunch up, as when I pull it out of the
hanger I can hear the tires making a shishing sound, like not rolling freely
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6a wheel alignment
Charlie, put the airplane on some smooth, flat concrete. Lay a large sheet
of paper in front of each of the main tires, and roll the plane over it and
watch what happens to the paper. That might tell you if the alignment is
truly far out of whack. You would want to have someone else with a 6A try
the same for comparison.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 584 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
> I have read everything I can find re wheel/axil alignment
> (not much, but mucho info on the RV6 in my RV6A builders
> manual), and have concluded that if it was not done correctly
> when the plane was built Im SOL. Anybody beeen able to change
> it, or tried and couldnt?? charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburator Control |
I'm about to wrestle with this issue too . . . I have the "deluxe"
throttle quadrant, but I'm sure I've seen this issue before . . . like
Indiana Larry states . . . you hate to reinvent the wheel in this are,
surely there is a more elegant solution.
I wonder if Mahlon has any comment. He know most of the answers!?
Regards,
Bob - RV-8 - N678RC
wrote:
>
> "LarryRobertHelming"
> <lhelming@s...> wrote:
> >
> > I have my TMX O-360 Mattituck engine and did my first start up. After this,
we did some checking and found the Van's FWF supplied push/pull control that
travels 2" does not take the carb to full open AND full closed. The travel is
just short about 1/4" or so. Or the carb arm is too long. I found, if I set
it for full throttle, the idle is 1200. NO GOOD.. The carb is a Precision
model MA-4-5. The distance from center of hole to center of hole in the arm is
1.75". Van's aircraft advises that I should connect control to middle hole.
Well, I only have one hole. Is there a suggestion or recommendation for this
condition. Also, I seem to lack a bit of travel to get the mixture to go from
full rich stop and full lean stop.
> >
> > Larry Helming in Indiana
>
> From: CameronKurth
> To: lycoming(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [lycoming] Re: Carburetor Control
>
> I had to drill a hole pretty close to the pivot to make the controls work. Everybody
else I know had to do the same thing.
>
> Cam
> >>
>
> Cam: thanks for your reply. I'd be interested in knowing the length of center
of hole to center of hole on your modified arm to get it to work?
>
> It seems to me the most elegant solution would be to use a throttle arm that
is by design the correct distance between the holes OR replace the push/pull control
with one that travels farther. Perhaps Precision expects us to use a
different throttle cable than the standard travel length of 2"? Or YES -- they
want us to take their beautifully machined part and do surgery on it to do a
custom job. If that is the case, at least they made it too long.
>
> With the p/p cable firmly installed AND no desire to rip it out and replace it,
is there a supplier for buying a arm to fit the carb with hole to hole length
of 1.5" (I'm guessing here on what would be correct length) to replace the
1.75" as supplied with the carb? In using Cam's method of drilling a hole in
the arm, I wonder -- does drilling a hole to shorten the hole to hole length do
anything to the certification of the carb or the warranty? Indiana Larry
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Quick poll: Sensenich FP prop users |
Hey:
going to Lancaster PA tomorrow for a repitch and dynamic balance of my 72CM series
fixed pitch Sensenich. Was wondering what pitch has served everyone best
on the 6 or 6A airframe with 160 hp?
I started out with a 150 hp Lyc and ordered the 76 inch pitch prop. This worked
okay until I upped the ponies to 160; now I hit redline far too easily in cruise.
I get 2230 static rpm at my 1000 ft MSL home strip and can exceed 2600
rpm in level flight at 8000 feet.
IIRC, Ed Z at Sensenich once looked over some in-flight numbers I collected and
recommended adding 2-3 inches of pitch, but it was a long while back. Since
I only want to drop this $450 once :-) I thought I'd poll the field and see what
pitch was working for others.
I'm sure anything we do tomorrow will be an improvement, at the expense of climb
performance, but I don't want to over- or under-do it. I'm looking to keep
at least 2100 rpm static and be able to firewall it at 8000 level without breaking
2600 rpm redline. I know a lot depends on actual airframe drag, rigging,
and actual engine output. Still, asking stuff liike this is free, and fun :-)
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Quick poll: Sensenich FP prop users |
I have an RV6A with a 160. Pitched to 80". Take off rpm was 2250. Take off
roll and climb were a little slow but I wanted cruise speed. It would just
hit 2600rpm flat out which was about 160~165kts true at 8000' my plane was
fairly heavy at 1150 empty. If I went back to a fixed pitch it would be
exactly what I had.
John Furey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Carb problems-Long |
I am going to relate an experience a friend of mine and myself had 2 years
ago. I wasnt going to repeat this to anyone but I thought it might be of
interest to the RV community and could possibly save a life.
A friend of mine, Tim, from Douglas, WY had been looking to buy a 2 seat
ultralight to give lessons in. He had gotten his ultralight instructors rating
and had some students lined up, but needed a plane. He had been in contact
with a gentleman from Dallas, TX who had a 2 seat Kolb for sale. Tim told me
that the price seemed reasonable and he asked if I would fly him down so he
could look it over. Now Tim knows I am always looking for an excuse to fly, so
he was sure I wouldnt say no. Tim by the way is a private pilot with 4000
plus hours and has owned quite a few planes, including the Hiperbipe that he
owned at the time. We would have flown his plane but if he bought the Kolb, he
planned on flying it back to Douglas.
I had completed my RV-6 the previous year and had put 175 hours on her since
her first flight. I hadnt had any problems with the engine or airframe, and
it performed as Van said it would. I am not a high time pilot, just passing
the 300 hour mark before we took off for Dallas.
The Friday we left it was clear, unlimited visibility, with about 10 knot NW
wind. This weather was predicted all the way to Dallas and was told it would
hold thru Sunday.
I left Casper at 8:00 am, flew to Douglas and picked up Tim and we were back
in the air by 9:30 am. Air was smooth and at 9500 ft we picked up a 30 mph
tailwind. We were cruising across the ground at between 225 and 235 mph. This
lasted all the way to Oklahoma. We landed at Weatherford for fuel and food,
time 12:30 pm MT. People there were very nice and let us have the courtesy car
to run into town and fill our stomachs.
We were back in the air by 1:45 MT and again we picked up a slight tailwind.
As we approached the Dallas area, I told Tim to keep a look out for other
aircraft as I had already spotted 4 or 5 that were within a couple miles of
us. He was already ahead of me as he too had been watching out for other
aircraft. The actual airport we were looking for was a little airstrip about
30 miles east of Dallas, sorry but I forget the name. In this area of Texas
there are private strips everywhere. The GPS told me where the airport was but
we were spotting private strips everywhere within 2 to 3 miles of our
destination. We finally arrived at 3:00 pm MT. Tim met with gentleman that had
the Kolb. He showed us the plane, pointing out the good and bad, then the 2 of
them went for a flight. Tim wanted some time to think over the purchase. Later
that night Tim told me that he didnt think it was the right plane for him.
We got a ride into Henderson that night by a nice gentleman who was at the
airport flying his powered chute. He was also nice enough to pick us up in the
morning and take us back out to the airport. For his efforts we gave him a
ride in my RV as he would not take any money for his time.
Well we finally took off about 8:30 am and made our way back for food and fuel
at Weatherford. Up to this point the plane had been performing great. At this
lower altitude as was finally seeing climb rates and airspeeds I have only
heard others talk about.
While departing Weatherford the engine hiccupped once. Tim and I looked at
each other and he asked what that was? I said I didnt know. The engine
continued to run smooth, the engine monitor didnt show anything to be
concerned about, everything in the green. We both shook it off and we
continued on. Tim said he was going to take a nap and proceeded to fall
asleep. About 1 hour into the flight I noticed the CHT were rising, not
critical, 355 F. I richened the mixture a little and the temps came down. My
hottest cylinder usually runs about 315 to 320 F. I was running 2500 RPM, 20
MP, crusing at 8500 FT. I have affixed pitch wood prop that is perfectly
suited for the O-360 F1A6 I have in my plane.
I kept an eye on the CHT and slowly it started to climb back up. I would again
richen the mixture and CHTs would come back down. Outside temp was about 85
F.
This continued until the engine began to run rough when the CHT climbed to 355
to 360 F. If I richened the mixture the problem would go away. If I kept the
mixture where it was at and turned on the electric fuel pump the problem would
go away- for a while.
Time finally woke up and I explained the situation to him. We were over north
central Colorado by know and we talked about landing to see what the problem
was. The problem was that by know I had the electric fuel pump running
constantly, mixture was full rich and I was slowly having to reduce RPMs. We
were still caring 2400 RPMs and are cruise speed was only down to 165. I
usually cruise at 180 MPH.
We were now over Wyoming and only about 50 minutes from Douglas. Tim suggested
I turn to the west and get over I-25, as the terrain starts to get rougher the
farther we get to Douglas. Again we talked about landing and the nearest
airport and checking things out. I told Tim that if we land we are probably
not going to takeoff today, unless we get lucky and find the problem. We were
still in the air, plenty of daylight, plenty of fuel (reduced throttle) and we
were still making 145 mph across the ground. RPMs were now down to 2200. Of
course we were constantly aware of our position and were looking for fields
and roads to land on if we had an engine failure.
Needless to say we made it to Douglas and landed without incident.
At Tims hanger we removed the cowl and I removed the carburetor. Tim checked
the gascalator, nothing. I removed the brass screen from the fuel intake at
the carburetor and found the problem. There was a circular piece of cloth
right at the fuel inlet to the carb. I knocked this out of the screen, when I
touched it I found it wasnt cloth but fine grains of dust, lint, etc. not
sure what it was. It had blocked the opening to the carb enough to actually
distort the screen by inch. I am sure if it hadnt been for the electric
fuel pump we would have had to set down and hour or 2 earlier.
Nothing was found in the gascalator or the fuel tanks.
I had purchased the engine used but had not taken the time to tear into the
carb. Of course I had flown the plane more than 175 hours until this problem
arose.
We cleaned the carb screen, put everything back together and I made a test
flight around the airport at Douglas. Everything was fine so I headed back to
Casper-25minutes, and landed without further incident.
The next day I went over the fuel system but could find nothing wrong. Maybe I
picked up something during the fuel stop at Weatherford, I dont know.
Maybe this will encourage those that havent looked at this screen to do so
know. Those that have bought a used engine may want to also clean this screen.
Tim and I wonder if we made the right choice in continuing on. There is know
doubt that it would have been ok to land and check things out. If
circumstances had been different, such as low on fuel, weather deteriorating,
etc. I am sure we would have found the nearest airport and landed. I know
there are those of you out there that think we were insane for continuing on,
and that is your choice. I am just writing this to give us all something to
reflect upon.
John
N106WP - sold
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: non rv related - Aspen Colorado |
I live 45 min. west of Aspen (via 2 place Grumman) and have been in and out
of there. It has an odd VFR approach in that, after contacting approach, you
fly up a valley and don't see the runway until you are about on final. It
might be different though flying in from the east. That said, I would drive
up from Denver for two reasons.
1. The scenery is spectacular from the ground.
2. You and your RV could get stuck in Denver for your entire vacation
waiting for the weather to clear, in and around those 14000' foot mountains, and
if you get in you may not get out on time. The mountain weather is even more
unpredictable than usual this time of year.
I'm guessing that the drive up is about 3 hours.
Bob Trumpfheller
Plugging away on my 7A
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Tire wear problem resolution |
Im so happy!! I dont really have a problem with my 6a after all. I got an email
replay from vans telling me the tires always wear out on the outside, thats
the way its designed. Wow, and to think, I saw that as a abnormal.. Silly me..
Charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp(at)jetstream.net> (by way of Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>) |
| Subject: | Medical Condition - Eustace Bowhay |
Matt Dralle )
This post is to advise that Eustace had suffered a stroke while visiting in
Calgary. Eustace has since been transferred to Royal Inland Hospital in
Kamloops B.C. I visited him on Sunday March 6 and found him in reasonably
good spirits. His speech is unaffected and his right side is fine, as a
matter of fact I teased him about the strong grip he had with his right
hand, told him he would be able to finish riveting his RV10 with his right
hand only. He had only slight movement in his left foot and no movement in
his left arm. Unfortunately, on the following Tuesday he developed
pneumonia and was transferred to intensive care for a few days. (visitor's
restricted to family only). I talked to his wife Nora yesterday and he has
been returned to a regular ward today. He is on a physiotherapy program to
restore movement to his left side. I understand he may be in hospital for
2 to 3 months. He is extremely disappointed that he cannot work on the
RV10 but it is a real incentive for him to concentrate on his recovery. He
is determined to get back working on that airplane. Please do not send any
emails to his home as Nora does not use the computer and his mailbox might
be full. If you would like to send him a message, send it to me and I will
print all responses and put them in a binder for him. I am sure he would
appreciate hearing from you.
Send messages to:
ve7fp(at)jetstream.net
Regards,
Ken Hoshowski RV6 C-FKEH
Salmon Arm B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | RV 7 Sliding Canopy |
Some time ago I bookmarked a site detailing Jim Clone's instructions for
building a sliding canopy.
The site seems to have dried up, and I can't get access. Has anyone got any
ideas about the subject.
Vans instructions are rather skimpy, and it gives me the Willies just
looking at that piece of plastic.
Stan Jones. N.Z.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Medical Condition - Eustace Bowhay |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Hoshowski (by way of Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>)"
> This post is to advise that Eustace had suffered a stroke while visiting
> in
> Calgary.
There may be some newcomers who do not know who Eustace Bowhay is. He is a
giant.
My first contact with him was when he advised me on an engine builder.
Later I found out more through other reading and his postings to the RV
List.
Among many many other things, Eustace is the owner and designer of the only
RV-6F, float plane. He is a high time pilot who has flown many many
aircraft types and has a wealth of experiences, some of which he has shared
with us. He is a bush pilot and an original. I wish him a speedy recovery.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: teflon hose assembly problems |
I think I found the solution to getting the -6 Russell hose fittings to
slide into the teflon hose. Close examination showed that the leading
edge of the nipple tube could stand to be bevelled a little. There were
also some very minute imperfections in the edge. A few minutes with
some #400 grit sand paper beveling the edge seems to do the trick.
Apparently these are made from pretty soft steel. Sam Buchanan's
suggestion of using a little STP Oil treatment lube is a good one too.
Looks like I'll be able to make my hoses after all.
I tried making some -4 teflon hoses using Earl's steel fittings (which I
could get in the -4 size) and they go together very easily. Almost too
easily. I'm going to find out about pressure testing tomorrow.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
Charles Heathco wrote:
>
>Im so happy!! I dont really have a problem with my 6a after all. I got an email
replay from vans telling me the tires always wear out on the outside, thats
the way its designed. Wow, and to think, I saw that as a abnormal.. Silly
me.. Charlie heathco
>
>
Silly both of us..
Without looking at your posting, just today I was looking at my tire
wear pattern and was wondering why mine were wearing on the
outside...... Hmmmmmmmmm.
PS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
Ken,
Tell Nora and Eustace that they are both in my prayers. Although we've never
met he has helped me many times on this list. This has not been the best
year so far, I have two funerals to attend today, and have already been to
four this year.
Wheeler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Carburator Control |
Larry (in Southern Indiana, I think),
One thing that comes to mind is that if you run the cable in a straight line
you'll get more stroke than if it has bends in it. You can try this outside
of the airplane and it'll make a believer out of you.
Now, if you've run the cable as straight as is reasonable to the carb (not
that you have a lot of choices here!), one thing you can do is drill another
hole closer to the throttle shaft. You can measure what the stroke
requirement will be with a ruler at the proposed new hole location. Allow maybe
1/16
inch less than the stroke you measure on the cable and you should be good to
go. I had to do this on my Fuel Injection servo. The arm had a suitable
place to drill the hole, so it worked out OK. Even though 2 inches seems like
a
short stroke, it works fine.
Hope this helps.
Dan Hopper
Walton, (Northern) IN
RV-7A (Was flying, now in the paint shop)
PS, paint your airplane before you fly it, and avoid the pain of being
without your airplane after you get addicted to it!
In a message dated 3/17/05 5:15:47 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com writes:
wrote:
> >
> > I have my TMX O-360 Mattituck engine and did my first start up. After
this, we did some checking and found the Van's FWF supplied push/pull control
that travels 2" does not take the carb to full open AND full closed. The
travel is just short about 1/4" or so. Or the carb arm is too long. I found,
if I set it for full throttle, the idle is 1200. NO GOOD.. The carb is a
Precision model MA-4-5. The distance from center of hole to center of hole in
the arm is 1.75". Van's aircraft advises that I should connect control to
middle hole. Well, I only have one hole. Is there a suggestion or
recommendation for this condition. Also, I seem to lack a bit of travel to get
the
mixture to go from full rich stop and full lean stop.
> >
> > Larry Helming in Indiana
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
I have read everything I can find re wheel/axil alignment (not much, but
mucho info on the RV6 in my RV6A builders manual), and have concluded that
if it was not done correctly when the plane was built Im SOL. Anybody beeen
able to change it, or tried and couldnt?? charlie heathco
Well,
without starting the war that occured the last time I gave advice on this
subject, outside wear can be caused by either camber, which is normal to
RVs, fix flip tires to wear the other sides,
or toe in, fix for rod gear, oval the retaining bolt holes in the gear
socket. Leave the holes in the gear as it is, but by doing this you can
rotate the gear leg slightly to adjust the toe, then braze fill the unused
portion of each hole and ream to circular.
Mine were factory drilled and they missed by a lot. something like 3deg on
one side and 2.5 on the other. The tires lasted less than 40 hours.
Toe leaves the tires scrubbed laterally, so if you rub your hand one way
across the grooves the corners feel dull and the other way they feel sharp,
possibly with a feathered edge.
the best way to measure is a lasar set on the rim and projected out fore or
aft 100 inches. Measure distance from centerline close to the wheels and
then 100 inches out from there and use trig to see what the angle is.
Project centerline down to the floor using plumbs and mark on tape.
I suggest measuring in the ground attitude as that's where most of the wear
occurs, and I usually do three point, or close to, landings.
Generally no toe is best, and I won't make any further comments lest another
war starts on the subject.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | FS RV Belt Buckles |
I have upgraded my site with better pictures and customer comments for your viewing.
Thanks, Glenn -9A fuselage
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John DeCuir <jadecuir(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick poll: Sensenich FP prop users |
I fly an RV4 with 160hp, FP sensenich. When I bought it from the second
owner, he had replaced the original wood prop with the 72CM, 79" pitch.
Short field performance was outstanding, and climb rate was over 1500
fpm to 7500'. But, when I leveled out, I had to throttle back so far to
keep under redline 2600rpm! I liked to cruise @ 2450 to 2500 rpm, and
my MP would be less than 20" to hold it there, TAS about 150 Kts.
I repitched to the recommended 81", for cruise, as that is 99% of
my flying. Takeoff and climb performance suffered noticeably, but once
the RPM's are up to 2500, she climbs at about 1000 fpm through 7500', @
130 IAS. I've flown in and out of Mammoth Lakes, CA several times this
winter, sometimes @ gross wt., and the low static rpm creates a long
takeoff roll at 7500' elev, but once the rpms come up, she climbs
pretty good to 14,500 for the crossing west.
I don't know how well she'd do in summer heat at gross wt. If I were
going for all-around performance and utility, I think 79", as
vans/sensenich recommend, is the pitch to have.
John DeCuir
N204CP, RV4
Salinas, CA
480 hrs TTAE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
I have used CONDOR tires on 3 RV's and been pleased
Doug Preston
RV7 N731RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF |
ATTENTION ALL---Mark your calendars now for one of the best fly-in Bar-BQ lunch
in the Southeast. We will be serving lunch at noon and there will be coffee
and donuts for the early birds.There is no rain date so come rain or shine, hopefully
shine.
Place----- Loves Landing Airpark, 97FL 130* 21.5 nm from Ocala VOR
N 28*57.42 W 081*53.29
What----- Smoked Bar-BQ pork (takes 2 days), Hamburgers,Hotdogs and all the other
fixns.
When---- Lunch at noon and coffee & donuts for early birds
Price---- $6.00 donation which includes everything
Note---This is a private airpark, land at your own risk.
Ollie Washburn 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF |
What is the date of the BBQ Ollie?
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
> Not to beat a dead horse, but I think you will be amazed if you put a
better
> quality tire on. My 6-A only got 40/50 hrs on the tires Van's supplies,
> with
> what seemed like abnormal wear on the outside of the tires. Went to
> Michelins
> and got over 200 .
I've been using the el cheapo McCreary Air Hawk tires (what Van's provides
in the finish kit). Like everyone has noted, they wear mostly on the
outboard sides, particularly the left outboard.
First set: rotated at 162 hours, replaced at 212 hours.
Second set: rotated at 374 hours (interesting how that worked out!), still
plenty of treads as of 415 hours.
I figure this 2nd set has another 40-50 hours on 'em easily before they need
to be replaced. You should be able to get 200+ hours on a set of cheap Air
Hawks if you treat 'em gently. I have no doubt that more expensive tires
would be better balanced, would wear less, etc. Worth the extra expense?
Not for me. I'd rather put the extra 100 bucks or whatever into the gas
tank.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
I wrote down at the time (last year's sun n fun) that the condors were going for
$50. What do the Air Hawks go for new?
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> > Not to beat a dead horse, but I think you will be amazed if you put a
> better
> > quality tire on. My 6-A only got 40/50 hrs on the tires Van's supplies,
> > with
> > what seemed like abnormal wear on the outside of the tires. Went to
> > Michelins
> > and got over 200 .
>
> I've been using the el cheapo McCreary Air Hawk tires (what Van's provides
> in the finish kit). Like everyone has noted, they wear mostly on the
> outboard sides, particularly the left outboard.
>
> First set: rotated at 162 hours, replaced at 212 hours.
>
> Second set: rotated at 374 hours (interesting how that worked out!), still
> plenty of treads as of 415 hours.
>
> I figure this 2nd set has another 40-50 hours on 'em easily before they need
> to be replaced. You should be able to get 200+ hours on a set of cheap Air
> Hawks if you treat 'em gently. I have no doubt that more expensive tires
> would be better balanced, would wear less, etc. Worth the extra expense?
> Not for me. I'd rather put the extra 100 bucks or whatever into the gas
> tank.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
I wrote down at the time (last year's sun n fun) that the condors were going for
$50. What do the Air Hawks go for new?
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
Not to beat a dead horse, but I think you will be amazed if you put a
better
quality tire on. My 6-A only got 40/50 hrs on the tires Van's supplies,
with
what seemed like abnormal wear on the outside of the tires. Went to
Michelins
and got over 200 .
I've been using the el cheapo McCreary Air Hawk tires (what Van's provides
in the finish kit). Like everyone has noted, they wear mostly on the
outboard sides, particularly the left outboard.
First set: rotated at 162 hours, replaced at 212 hours.
Second set: rotated at 374 hours (interesting how that worked out!), still
plenty of treads
as of 415 hours.
I figure this 2nd set has another 40-50 hours on 'em easily before they need
to be replaced. You should be able to get 200+ hours on a set of cheap Air
Hawks if you treat 'em gently. I have no doubt that more expensive tires
would be better balanced, would wear less, etc. Worth the extra expense?
Not for me. I'd rather put the extra 100 bucks or whatever into the gas
tank.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
ed Information
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF |
Mar.26th
Ollie
----- Original Message -----
From: <DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF
>
> What is the date of the BBQ Ollie?
> Doug
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "oliver h washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF |
>
> Subject: RV-List: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF
>
>
> ATTENTION ALL---Mark your calendars now for one of the best fly-in Bar-BQ
lunch in the Southeast Sat Mar 26th. We will be serving lunch at noon and
there will be coffee and donuts for the early birds.There is no rain date
so come rain or shine, hopefully shine.
>
> Place----- Loves Landing Airpark, 97FL 130* 21.5 nm from Ocala VOR
> N 28*57.42 W 081*53.29
>When---- March 26th
> What----- Smoked Bar-BQ pork (takes 2 days), Hamburgers,Hotdogs and all
the other fixns.
>
> When---- Lunch at noon and coffee & donuts for early birds
>
> Price---- $6.00 donation which includes everything
>
> Note---This is a private airpark, land at your own risk.
>
> Ollie Washburn 6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>>I wrote down at the time (last year's sun n fun) that the condors were
>
> going for $50. What do the Air Hawks go for new?
>
> $37.80 from Spruce. Beat that with a stick!
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/mcairhawk.php
Dittos on the Air Hawks. I got them for $38.95 (free shipping) from Desser:
http://www.desser.com
They have a lot of meat out on the shoulders of the tire where our
planes punish them. Flipping tires is standard procedure for maximizing
tire life. Remember, you must remount the tires, not just move them from
one side of the plane to the other.
Be sure you install low-leak tubes while you are at it.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Quick poll: Sensenich FP prop users |
I ended up going with 79" pitch today, and it sure seemed to make a new beast out
of the RV - very different and mostly better; easier to stay off the redline
in cruise, and maybe a smidge faster, like around 10 mph indicated ;-) The
dynamic balance took it from .48 IPS down to .03, and you can sure feel that!
Best $450 I ever dropped on that plane since I started riveting 11 years ago
.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: John DeCuir <jadecuir(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Quick poll: Sensenich FP prop users
I fly an RV4 with 160hp, FP sensenich. When I bought it from the second
owner, he had replaced the original wood prop with the 72CM, 79" pitch.
Short field performance was outstanding, and climb rate was over 1500
fpm to 7500'. But, when I leveled out, I had to throttle back so far to
keep under redline 2600rpm! I liked to cruise @ 2450 to 2500 rpm, and
my MP would be less than 20" to hold it there, TAS about 150 Kts.
I repitched to the recommended 81", for cruise, as that is 99% of
my flying. Takeoff and climb performance suffered noticeably, but once
the RPM's are up to 2500, she climbs at about 1000 fpm through 7500', @
130 IAS. I've flown in and out of Mammoth Lakes, CA several times this
winter, sometimes @ gross wt., and the low static rpm creates a long
takeoff roll at 7500' elev, but once the rpms come up, she climbs
pretty good to 14,500 for the crossing west.
I don't know how well she'd do in summer heat at gross wt. If I were
going for all-around performance and utility, I think 79", as
vans/sensenich recommend, is the pitch to have.
John DeCuir
N204CP, RV4
Salinas, CA
480 hrs TTAE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Teflon hose assembly |
Any thoughts about suitability (reliability/ durability) of flexible Teflon to
connect the fuel tank to selector valve (all or in part)? My issue has to do
with the almost impossible routing of solid -6 aluminum from the tank connection,
through the gear leg fitting, of a trigear Van design, doesn't matter which
one.
A flexible hose would solve that problem.
Mike Holland
Finishing RV9A
Dana Point, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon hose assembly |
Mike Holland wrote:
>
> Any thoughts about suitability (reliability/ durability) of flexible
> Teflon to connect the fuel tank to selector valve (all or in part)?
> My issue has to do with the almost impossible routing of solid -6
> aluminum from the tank connection, through the gear leg fitting, of a
> trigear Van design, doesn't matter which one.
>
> A flexible hose would solve that problem.
It's been done and it works fine.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon hose assembly |
On 03/18 4:51, Mike Holland wrote:
> Any thoughts about suitability (reliability/ durability) of flexible Teflon
to connect the fuel tank to selector valve (all or in part)? My issue has to
do with the almost impossible routing of solid -6 aluminum from the tank connection,
through the gear leg fitting, of a trigear Van design, doesn't matter
which one.
>
> A flexible hose would solve that problem.
I did one line in one piece and the left side in two pieces.
Just make both lines into two pieces and be done with it
in under one hour. Cheaper and lighter than flex hose.
See entry dated 12/1/04
http://www.rv7-a.com/cockpit_3.htm
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon hose assembly |
I put the aluminum line through the gear mouni in two pieces,that made it
easier and it fit.
Bob Olds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Can't get full aft control deflection |
Oh wise, sage builders whom have come before me...
May I borrow your assistance please.
After installing the controls tonight, I found that I can't get
full aft deflection on the controls (to the stops) due to a binding
issue with the rod end bearing and the elevator pivot control
horn. Any help and ideas are appreciated.
Text and pictures here.
http://rv7-a.com/lasttenpercent.htm#3/18/05
Thanks,
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
working on the last 10%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
My tach cable that's about 1" too long. Anyone out there in RV Land know where
I can send it to have it shortened?
Tommy Walker
6A, "Finishing the Finishing"!
Ridgetop, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
I'm just starting my RV8 fuse and I'm wandering would it be better to paint the
interior cockpit area while I'm building so that I have better access to get
into the tight places or paint after it's all assembled. I'm aware that I would
have to touch up when it's completed but it seems easier to paint now.
Greg
RV8
82070
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: interior paint |
One data point..
I painted mine when the shell was more or less complete with seats and
floorboards. I installed the panel, ran the electrical, and mounted the
wings afterwards. I was careful and didn't have to touch up anything...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: interior paint
>
> I'm just starting my RV8 fuse and I'm wandering would it be better to
> paint the interior cockpit area while I'm building so that I have better
> access to get into the tight places or paint after it's all assembled.
> I'm aware that I would have to touch up when it's completed but it seems
> easier to paint now.
>
> Greg
> RV8
> 82070
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Try your local speedometer shop.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tach Cable
>
> My tach cable that's about 1" too long. Anyone out there in RV Land know
> where I can send it to have it shortened?
>
> Tommy Walker
> 6A, "Finishing the Finishing"!
> Ridgetop, TN
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can't get full aft control deflection |
I had the exact same problem. You just have to adjust the rod end bearings
so that at full aft travel you wont have that interference. Make sure to
remember to engage enough threads so that if the stop nuts were to back off
and the push rod rotated, the rod end bearings could not possibly come off
the push rod. I cut some tubing and put it between the rod end and push rod
to be extra safe. I know, totally unnecessary but it makes me feel better.
I would disregard the position of the pivot control horn. Start up front
and work your way back.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: RV-List: Can't get full aft control deflection
>
> Oh wise, sage builders whom have come before me...
> May I borrow your assistance please.
>
> After installing the controls tonight, I found that I can't get
> full aft deflection on the controls (to the stops) due to a binding
> issue with the rod end bearing and the elevator pivot control
> horn. Any help and ideas are appreciated.
>
> Text and pictures here.
>
> http://rv7-a.com/lasttenpercent.htm#3/18/05
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
> working on the last 10%
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: interior paint |
Hi;
My recommendation would be to paint after the interior is largely complete
(baggage side panels, seats, floor, etc.) but before wiring. Putting all the
wiring in and then removing same to paint would be a significant cost in
time and effort.
Depending on what paint method you choose (rattle can or HVLP sprayer) you
are right that it will be probably be easier to do some of the more awkward
places as you proceed rather than leave it all till the end.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: interior paint
>
> I'm just starting my RV8 fuse and I'm wandering would it be better to
> paint the interior cockpit area while I'm building so that I have better
> access to get into the tight places or paint after it's all assembled.
> I'm aware that I would have to touch up when it's completed but it seems
> easier to paint now.
>
> Greg
> RV8
> 82070
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interior paint |
I purchased my kit from a guy who had started the fuselage and had
many of the interior panels, etc. painted and already ready to
assemble (he had built two previously).
I can't imagine doing it any other way. You have to take more care
when you are riveting, but judicious use of duct-tape will protect the
paint from your tools . . . we used PPG Concept Poly for the finish
coat and their self-etching two part primer.
Good Luck
Bob Christensen
RV-8 - N678RC - FWF/Panel/etc.
>
> I'm just starting my RV8 fuse and I'm wandering would it be better to paint the
interior cockpit area while I'm building so that I have better access to get
into the tight places or paint after it's all assembled. I'm aware that I would
have to touch up when it's completed but it seems easier to paint now.
>
> Greg
> RV8
> 82070
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: interior paint |
I agree. When you think the mechanical stuff is done,
and you are ready to wire, then it's time to paint it.
Mickey
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> One data point..
>
> I painted mine when the shell was more or less complete with seats and
> floorboards. I installed the panel, ran the electrical, and mounted the
> wings afterwards. I was careful and didn't have to touch up anything...
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: interior paint
>
>
>
>>
>>I'm just starting my RV8 fuse and I'm wandering would it be better to
>>paint the interior cockpit area while I'm building so that I have better
>>access to get into the tight places or paint after it's all assembled.
>>I'm aware that I would have to touch up when it's completed but it seems
>>easier to paint now.
>>
>>Greg
>>RV8
>>82070
>>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Greg,
We used Sherwin Williams - Sun Fire - (a 2-part paint). We sprayed after we
had fitted the interior panels. It has held up well thru the building
process and for the last 4 yrs.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: interior paint
>Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 13:31:56 +1000
>
>
>I'm just starting my RV8 fuse and I'm wandering would it be better to paint
>the interior cockpit area while I'm building so that I have better access
>to get into the tight places or paint after it's all assembled. I'm aware
>that I would have to touch up when it's completed but it seems easier to
>paint now.
>
>Greg
>RV8
>82070
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Can't get full aft control deflection |
Walter,
Beautiful website. You definitely don't want that type of binding. It
could break the rod end off. Not a good situation! I assume the stops you're
talking about are at the horns, and you've measured for the proper up elevator
angle. If so, it looks like the obvious solution is to trim a little of the
horn away to clear the rod end. It won't take enough to make any difference
in the strength of the horn. Just get a half round file go to work.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Was flying, now being painted)
In a message dated 3/18/05 10:16:22 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
walter(at)tondu.com writes:
After installing the controls tonight, I found that I can't get
full aft deflection on the controls (to the stops) due to a binding
issue with the rod end bearing and the elevator pivot control
horn. Any help and ideas are appreciated.
Text and pictures here.
http://rv7-a.com/lasttenpercent.htm#3/18/05
Thanks,
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
working on the last 10%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: interior paint |
Greg,
I think that depends on if you intend to Alodine & prime prior to
assembly. If you do, applying the finish paint at this point will save time
later. I primed and painted all my cockpit parts before assembly. I used an
epoxy primer and PPG's Delta (similar to Imron) paint. I found that this
paint is very tough. Even in areas where the rivet set (I back riveted
everything) slipped off the tail of the rivet, almost no damage was done.
In the few places where there was damage, only the finish coat was nicked
off. The primer was still there. Your finished job will turn out much
nicer, if you paint first.
Charlie Kuss
>
>I'm just starting my RV8 fuse and I'm wandering would it be better to
>paint the interior cockpit area while I'm building so that I have better
>access to get into the tight places or paint after it's all
>assembled. I'm aware that I would have to touch up when it's completed
>but it seems easier to paint now.
>
>Greg
>RV8
>82070
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Brown <acrojim(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon hose assembly |
Go to a hardware store and purchase a tubing bender spring (with 1/2
inch inside diameter), they are about 12 inches long. Snake the spring
thru the landing gear fitting - at that point you can then slide the
fuel line tubing thru the spring.
Jim Brown
RV 7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: interior paint |
I would also make some cardboard patterns of your interior in case you
decide to put insulation in the cockpit. I did it after and what a pain in
the @%$.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: interior paint
>
> Hi;
>
> My recommendation would be to paint after the interior is largely complete
> (baggage side panels, seats, floor, etc.) but before wiring. Putting all
> the
> wiring in and then removing same to paint would be a significant cost in
> time and effort.
>
> Depending on what paint method you choose (rattle can or HVLP sprayer) you
> are right that it will be probably be easier to do some of the more
> awkward
> places as you proceed rather than leave it all till the end.
>
> Jim Oke
> RV-6A
> Wpg., MB
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: interior paint
>
>
>>
>> I'm just starting my RV8 fuse and I'm wandering would it be better to
>> paint the interior cockpit area while I'm building so that I have better
>> access to get into the tight places or paint after it's all assembled.
>> I'm aware that I would have to touch up when it's completed but it seems
>> easier to paint now.
>>
>> Greg
>> RV8
>> 82070
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interior paint |
Greg,
I'll suggest another alternative. I painted all of the little pieces and parts
that I knew I wouldn't be able to reach once they were riveted on. Later, after
the fuselage was all riveted together, I went back and painted everything
inside. This worked out really well as all the hard to paint places were already
painted, I just needed to hit the big flat surfaces. I would also suggest
waiting as long as possible to paint.... right before the wiring process people
are suggesting is a good idea. You'll be in and out of the fuselage a lot.
Matthew
RV-9A Finsish Kit
www.n523rv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Teflon hose assembly |
Good idea......I also used Bulk Head Fittings where the fuel lines exit the
fuselage which makes it much easier to connect the wing tanks.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Teflon hose assembly
>
> I put the aluminum line through the gear mouni in two pieces,that made it
> easier and it fit.
> Bob Olds
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
My Garmin transponder I ordered from Stark didn't come with any of the flush screws
needed inside the tray. I wasted over an hour running around town trying
to find machine screws that would lay flush in there to no avail.
One Old Timer hardware store guy said they must be "special" screws and asked me
twice if it wasn't from china. Well special or not they sure as heck weren't
findable in this town and it would have been nice to have gotten them with the
tray or at least been told that the "special" screws had to be purchases separately.
Anyone know just what the heck kind of screw I need to ask for and who can I order
them from?
thanks,
lucky
My Garmin transponder I ordered from Stark didn't come with any of the flush screws
needed inside the tray. I wasted over an hour running around town trying
to find machine screws that would lay flush in there to no avail.
One Old Timer hardware store guy said they must be "special" screws and asked me
twice if it wasn't from china. Well special or not they sure as heck weren't
findable in this town and it would have been nice to have gotten them with the
tray or at least been told that the "special" screws had to be purchases separately.
Anyone know just what the heck kind of screw I need to ask for and who can I order
them from?
thanks,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: interior paint |
I'll second the SW Sunfire paint. I painted the interior as soon as the
structure of the "canoe" was done. It held up very well over the next
year of climbing in and out 10,000 times, dropping tools, etc. Mix it
1:1 with the flattening base (10% gloss) and add the hardener as well.
And it's usually available locally.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
lucky wrote:
>
> forgot to mention the AirHawks were the HEAVIEST tire listed, by far,
> in the one table that had weights. 17.9 pounds a piece in this
> chart where the condors are 8.8 pounds a piece. Wow, 20 pounds of
> extra tire weight. That's heavier than a friggin Prestolite Starter!
That was obviously a misprint; I suspect the weight of two Air Hawks is
17.9 lbs. I didn't weigh the Air Hawks I installed on my RV-6, but I
have recollection of them being noticeably heavier than the Aero
Trainers, Michelins, retreads, or Condors I have used in the past.
One of the retreads I ran was nearly 1/4" out of round. Many folks have
had good experience with them but I didn't get significantly better wear
with the retreads than the other tires. Since they cost as much as Air
Hawks or Condors, I have decided to skip the retreads.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
I recall reading that at the time this article came out, and thinking it
was a typo. It appears to be a typo indeed. Spruce has a chart of the
weight of various tires, and the heaviest Airhawk 6:00-6 8 ply is 7.8
lbs., not 17.9. Also they tested the 6.00-6 which is bigger than our
tires. The RV-sized 5.00-5 6 ply is 4.3 lbs.
Jeff Point
150 hours on my first Airhawks and probably 100 more left.
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Screw |
I used regular 100 deg countersunk #8 screws. They don't fit in the
dimple in the tray perfectly, however they do leave plenty of clearance
for the radio to slide in and out, and they hold the tray securely.
This is on a Garmin GTX320, YMMV.
Jeff Point
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Screw |
So what does Stark say???
and from look like IP addresses, lucky wrote:
>
> My Garmin transponder I ordered from Stark didn't come with any of the flush
screws needed inside the tray. I wasted over an hour running around town trying
to find machine screws that would lay flush in there to no avail.
>
> One Old Timer hardware store guy said they must be "special" screws and asked
me twice if it wasn't from china. Well special or not they sure as heck weren't
findable in this town and it would have been nice to have gotten them with
the tray or at least been told that the "special" screws had to be purchases
separately.
>
> Anyone know just what the heck kind of screw I need to ask for and who can I
order them from?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
>
> My Garmin transponder I ordered from Stark didn't come with any of the flush
screws needed inside the tray. I wasted over an hour running around town trying
to find machine screws that would lay flush in there to no avail.
>
> One Old Timer hardware store guy said they must be "special" screws and asked
me twice if it wasn't from china. Well special or not they sure as heck weren't
findable in this town and it would have been nice to have gotten them with
the tray or at least been told that the "special" screws had to be purchases separately.
>
> Anyone know just what the heck kind of screw I need to ask for and who can I
order them from?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> lucky wrote:
>
>>
>>forgot to mention the AirHawks were the HEAVIEST tire listed, by far,
>>in the one table that had weights. 17.9 pounds a piece in this
>>chart where the condors are 8.8 pounds a piece. Wow, 20 pounds of
>>extra tire weight. That's heavier than a friggin Prestolite Starter!
>
>
>
> That was obviously a misprint; I suspect the weight of two Air Hawks is
> 17.9 lbs. I didn't weigh the Air Hawks I installed on my RV-6, but I
> have recollection of them being noticeably heavier than the Aero
> Trainers, Michelins, retreads, or Condors I have used in the past.
Correction; should have read:
"I have no recollection"......
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
NAS514P632-XX should do it. Aircraft Spruce page 92 (2004/2005).
Avionics never come with the tray mounting hardware. There are too many
options available to the installer for the manufacturer to try to anticipate
which hardware is required.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
831-722-9141
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lucky
Subject: RV-List: Garmin Screw
My Garmin transponder I ordered from Stark didn't come with any of the flush
screws needed inside the tray. I wasted over an hour running around town
trying to find machine screws that would lay flush in there to no avail.
One Old Timer hardware store guy said they must be "special" screws and
asked me twice if it wasn't from china. Well special or not they sure as
heck weren't findable in this town and it would have been nice to have
gotten them with the tray or at least been told that the "special" screws
had to be purchases separately.
Anyone know just what the heck kind of screw I need to ask for and who can I
order them from?
thanks,
lucky
My Garmin transponder I ordered from Stark didn't come with any of the flush
screws needed inside the tray. I wasted over an hour running around town
trying to find machine screws that would lay flush in there to no avail.
One Old Timer hardware store guy said they must be "special" screws and
asked me twice if it wasn't from china. Well special or not they sure as
heck weren't findable in this town and it would have been nice to have
gotten them with the tray or at least been told that the "special" screws
had to be purchases separately.
Anyone know just what the heck kind of screw I need to ask for and who can I
order them from?
thanks,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Screw |
The hardware store screws are not 100 deg. Think they are 90 deg or
something like that. Therefore they do not seat down into the tray dimples.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Screw |
>
>My Garmin transponder I ordered from Stark didn't come with any of
>the flush screws needed inside the tray. I wasted over an hour
>running around town trying to find machine screws that would lay
>flush in there to no avail.
>
>One Old Timer hardware store guy said they must be "special" screws
>and asked me twice if it wasn't from china. Well special or not
>they sure as heck weren't findable in this town and it would have
>been nice to have gotten them with the tray or at least been told
>that the "special" screws had to be purchases separately.
>
>Anyone know just what the heck kind of screw I need to ask for and
>who can I order them from?
>
>thanks,
>lucky
>
>My Garmin transponder I ordered from Stark didn't come with any of
>the flush screws needed inside the tray. I wasted over an hour
>running around town trying to find machine screws that would lay
>flush in there to no avail.
>
>One Old Timer hardware store guy said they must be "special" screws
>and asked me twice if it wasn't from china. Well special or not they
>sure as heck weren't findable in this town and it would have been
>nice to have gotten them with the tray or at least been told that
>the "special" screws had to be purchases separately.
>
>Anyone know just what the heck kind of screw I need to ask for and
>who can I order them from?
I used standard aviation #6 screws, exactly the same as are used in
many other places on our aircraft. AN525 screws, IIRC.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc.) |
Dwight Frye wrote:
>
>On Sat Mar 19 00:38:26 2005, j1j2h3(at)juno.com wrote :
>
>
>>Please add my vote to those in favor of this project. I am not a computer
>>guru but would be pleased to aid in entering data from previous Matronics
>>postings.
>>[ ... snip ... ]
>>I think this thread should be kept on the RV-list for a while, or at least
>>a progress report listed periodically to help gauge and build interest.
>>Perhaps Matronics would consider running it on their site as a supplement
>>to their lists.
>>
>>
>
>Jim (and anyone else who is interested),
>
>There are a few of us talking about pulling together a Wiki off-list. The
>discussion was taken (mostly) off-list so we didn't clutter up everyone's
>inbox with a discussion they might not be interested in reading about (though
>I am sure everyone on this list likely has well developed the ability to
>delete e-mail messages). But since you asked on-list, I thought I'd give a
>brief reply on-list.
>
>I hesitate to dump even an abridged-and-organized version of the RV-list
>postings into the Wiki unaltered. There are a couple of reasons for that.
>For one we already have the RV-list archives which support a great search
>mechanism. So, in a sense, the ability for newcomers to go back and look
>at previous postings is taken care of with the Matronics search as well
>as in other forums.
>
>The second reason I hesitate to dump postings into the Wiki has to do with
>a (potentially overdeveloped) sense of concern for ownership and the rights
>of the original authors to not have their work used without giving explicit
>permission. IF the _author_ wants to take what they wrote and contribute
>an article ... say a "howto" on some subject or another, FANTASTIC! :) That
>is what we would like to see happen *if* the Wiki gets off the ground.
>
>Finally, it is our thinking that a Wiki would serve a very different
>purpose than the existing forums. We currently have forums in which there
>is a dialog between members (the Matronics lists, the Yahoo groups, the
>forums on Doug Reeves' site, RivetBangers.com, and others). Each of these
>venues allow you to pull up information ... and tends to deliver it in
>the form of a "narative", where you get the list of e-mail/messages on
>the topic you select, and can scan through them in order pulling out what
>you want or need.
>
>Alternatively, the main part of Doug Reeves' site is more a news and events
>outlet. This is yet another way to gather and distribute information. In
>this case it (somewhat) filters through an editor who helps condense things
>into a nicely packaged, continually updated, list of "articles" which get
>posted.
>
>We don't intend the Wiki to be a be a discussion forum. The Wiki technology
>isn't even well suited to that task. We don't intend the Wiki to be a news
>outlet either. In short the goal of the Wiki would be to allow us all to
>cooperatively gather knowledge about the building, maintaining, and flying
>of RVs. There will be areas of interest, and articles written in those
>areas by folks who volunteer to share their experiences. So rather than
>being a "narative", it will be more an evolving "encyclopedia" of RV (and
>maybe in a more general sense, homebuilding) knowledge. The structure of
>the site can evolve as better ways to organize it are identified. In fact
>YOU (each of you) can participate, contribute, and modify the site at will.
>
>It is felt that something like a Wiki would actually be a good _compliment_
>for all of the existing forums ... a subject we can talk about more if folks
>are intersted.
>
>We see this as fitting into a niche that is different from the existing
>forums and venues. Will it fly? (Pun intended.) Who knows? We are tempted
>to throw it up and just see. In fact, I start to get tempted to throw
>the Wiki up but .. for now .. have it be oriented toward just collecting
>information and making plans for the Wiki itself. People with suggestions
>can come there and post their thoughts.
>
>Anyway ... this has gotten longer than I intended, so I'll wrap it up here.
>If you are interested in the Wiki (or just think you might be), drop me
>a line off-list and lets talk. As news becomes worth sharing, we'll post
>it here (and likely elsewhere too).
>
> -- Dwight
>
Sorry Dwight; I think this startup stuff really should be archived.
My request: I hope that when you go live, it will remain truly open like
the list, but with better organized info like Wikipedia.
Thanks for your efforts. I think that this could be a giant step forward
for the homebuilding community.
Charlie
(most adept at using others' ideas)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Screw |
Lucky
Use AN519C-10R8 screws (aka MS24694C-10R8). I got mine from ACS. See
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ms24694.php
The screws are not supposed to be completely flush. The rack is made
slightly wider than necessary. This allows the radio to be installed &
removed with ease. Those slightly protruding screw heads act as spacers to
help "center" the radio in your tray. They prevent the face of the radio
from moving side to side to much. These worked great on my Icom A200 and my
RMI MicroMonitor as well.
Charlie Kuss
>
>My Garmin transponder I ordered from Stark didn't come with any of the
>flush screws needed inside the tray. I wasted over an hour running around
>town trying to find machine screws that would lay flush in there to no avail.
>
>One Old Timer hardware store guy said they must be "special" screws and
>asked me twice if it wasn't from china. Well special or not they sure as
>heck weren't findable in this town and it would have been nice to have
>gotten them with the tray or at least been told that the "special" screws
>had to be purchases separately.
>
>Anyone know just what the heck kind of screw I need to ask for and who can
>I order them from?
>
>thanks,
>lucky
>
>My Garmin transponder I ordered from Stark didn't come with any of the
>flush screws needed inside the tray. I wasted over an hour running around
>town trying to find machine screws that would lay flush in there to no avail.
>
>One Old Timer hardware store guy said they must be "special" screws and
>asked me twice if it wasn't from china. Well special or not they sure as
>heck weren't findable in this town and it would have been nice to have
>gotten them with the tray or at least been told that the "special" screws
>had to be purchases separately.
>
>Anyone know just what the heck kind of screw I need to ask for and who can
>I order them from?
>
>thanks,
>lucky
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Tires, how to get stem out of wheel |
First time Ive changed this kind of tire. whats the time honored method of getting
the tube stem out of wheel grommet? charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: interior paint |
I'll jump right in line here, after seeing Jeff's result I went the same
route.. ..
I lost count of the times I dropped a screwdriver or wrench on it. a nut
or a bolt......
And of course my kids climing in and out.......oh yeah their nicknames
are the Mud Twins,,, Paint's holding up great.
gert
Jeff Point wrote:
>
>I'll second the SW Sunfire paint. I painted the interior as soon as the
>structure of the "canoe" was done. It held up very well over the next
>year of climbing in and out 10,000 times, dropping tools, etc. Mix it
>1:1 with the flattening base (10% gloss) and add the hardener as well.
>And it's usually available locally.
>
>Jeff Point
>RV-6
>Milwaukee WI
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tire wear problem resolution |
In a message dated 03/19/2005 11:51:07 AM Central Standard Time,
luckymacy(at)comcast.net writes:
forgot to mention the AirHawks were the HEAVIEST tire listed, by far, in the
one table that had weights. 17.9 pounds a piece in this chart where the
condors are 8.8 pounds a piece. Wow, 20 pounds of extra tire weight. That's
heavier than a friggin Prestolite Starter!
>>>>
Hi Lucky-
I remember seeing the article, but didn't notice the weight difference- I
thought 17.9 sounded pretty hard to believe, so I commandeered the wifs
ultra-accurate cooking scale and loaded it up with an Air Hawk (kit supplied) that
came
off my -6A at 100 hours. It still has a bit over 1/8" grooves left (the one
that wore evenly from the right side- the left was bald on the outside, hence
the switch to Condors/Airstops) and even with the original tube still in the
tire, it only weighed 5 lbs, 11 oz. Looks like they were either lying or just
pulled a fat-finger in the article?
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips N51PW, 153 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
List:
Just trying to plan ahead here.....What is the maximum that you can actually adjust/set
the incidence on a 6/6A wing? A full degree?? Half a degree?? It seems
that with the fit of the spars to the fuselage bulkhead that there would
be very little room for making any significant change in the incidence of the
wing.
If you need to change the incidence to any degree, you will have to put quite a
bit of force on the aft edge of the wing to get any movement back there, thus
really putting a heavy shear load on that one poor bolt in the rear spar.
I don't have my wings installed yet, so I am just speculating here. Am I concerned
over nothing??
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Finishing up firewall forward
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing incidence |
Don't know the maximum amount, But my wing has 1/2 deg more than the specs.
Had to do that to meet the material edge specifications for the rear spar
bolt - did not have any problem with forcing the wing to assume the position
for the rear bolt, actually no force required. I don't think a degree would
have placed excessive pre load on the bolt either - but that is just an
opinion. Of course, I also had to increase the incident of the horizontal
stabilizer by 1/2 deg to match.
Ed A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: wing incidence
>
> List:
>
> Just trying to plan ahead here.....What is the maximum that you can
actually adjust/set the incidence on a 6/6A wing? A full degree?? Half a
degree?? It seems that with the fit of the spars to the fuselage bulkhead
that there would be very little room for making any significant change in
the incidence of the wing.
>
> If you need to change the incidence to any degree, you will have to put
quite a bit of force on the aft edge of the wing to get any movement back
there, thus really putting a heavy shear load on that one poor bolt in the
rear spar.
>
> I don't have my wings installed yet, so I am just speculating here. Am I
concerned over nothing??
>
> Regards,
>
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> Finishing up firewall forward
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell" <caldwel(at)ictransnet.com> |
Does anyone know of an Autocad compatible database for panel design.
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <flynlow(at)usaviator.net> |
| Subject: | Prepping. Priming, Painting, Etc.) |
What is a wiki?
>>If you are interested in the Wiki........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Echo in head sets with 2 ANR plugged in |
I noticed this problem a while back, but didnt tie it to the condition until second
time it was a factor. If Im alone, or psgr has non ANR headset, no problem.
Two ANR headsets and get a feedback type of echo when comm with each other.
I have a mono flight com 403. I think it is suspect and wondered if anyone else
had this problem.
Would an upgrade to say a sterio PS enginering eliminate this problem? charlie
heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Suprisingly good bug juice cleaner |
I dont think i posted this, I got the tip on another group chat, fellow acidently
stumbled on to it. Baby Wipes. He says will clean off the belly as well. I
got a little box and tried it on the dried bug juice, took it right off. charlie
heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Ignition wire clamps |
Anybody know where to get ignition wire clamps for two leads? I've seen them on
production airplanes so I know they are available. The archives had a hit, but
the link is dead.
Thanks in advance.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S (Res.)
St. Charles, MO
90% done...90% to go!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire clamps |
yes. follow this link
http://www.sacskyranch.com/acatalog/catalogbody.html
and search
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> Anybody know where to get ignition wire clamps for two leads? I've seen them
on
> production airplanes so I know they are available. The archives had a hit, but
> the link is dead.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve Struyk
> RV-8, N842S (Res.)
> St. Charles, MO
> 90% done...90% to go!
>
>
>
>
>
>
yes. follow this link
http://www.sacskyranch.com/acatalog/catalogbody.html
and search
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk"
Anybody know where to get ignition wire clamps for two leads? I've seen them on
production airplanes so I know they are available. The archives had a hit, but
the link is dead.
Thanks in advance.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S (Res.)
St. Charles, MO
90% done...90% to go!
========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Greasy flap motors, cont'd |
Just another data point in the saga of the greasy flap motors. My flap motor
quit at 47.4 hours. I had hoped I was safe from the cursed greasy motor
syndrome but no such luck. When I disassembled the motor I could not believe the
amount of gear grease that was packed in there. It looked to me as if whoever
assembled the unit packed grease in the motor instead of in the gear case.
TIP: Trim two short lengths of twist tie (from the produce aisle) so that they
are narrow enough to wrap around the arms of the horseshoe shaped brush
holder to hold the brush springs back. That way the brushes stay in place and
reassembly is much easier.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6 N16CX, 45+ hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: interior paint |
FWIW - I decided to prime everything - stopped alodining as it is overkill
in my environment. As for priming (Intergard 90 - PPG - Strontium Chromate 2
component epoxy primer) the rule is if you are going to paint over it, do it
within 24 hrs otherwise if you wait too long, you have to scuff the old
primer, apply another coat of primer and then paint.
Given this scenario, I prime hidden surfaces now (inside of wing skins,
ribs, etc.) and on the fuselage parts, I prime the side which will not be
painted (underside of floor, hidden sides of panels...). When I decide to
prime I'll prime first and paint right afterwards. This takes a little
planning and investigation by looking ahead in the plans which is very
positive. I get to know things better this way.
Michle
RV8 - Wings
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matthew Brandes
> Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2005 4:36 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: interior paint
>
>
> Greg,
>
> I'll suggest another alternative. I painted all of the little pieces and
> parts that I knew I wouldn't be able to reach once they were riveted on.
> Later, after the fuselage was all riveted together, I went back and
> painted everything inside. This worked out really well as all the hard to
> paint places were already painted, I just needed to hit the big flat
> surfaces. I would also suggest waiting as long as possible to paint....
> right before the wiring process people are suggesting is a good idea.
> You'll be in and out of the fuselage a lot.
>
> Matthew
> RV-9A Finsish Kit
> www.n523rv.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jonweisw <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Whirlwind propellers |
I have started this for those of us with the WW propellers to initiate
discussion and trade experiences with their line of propellers.
The link is:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/whirlwindpropellers
Thanks,
Jon Weiswasser
N898JW, RV-8, WW200RV
100h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Central American Trip with RV-6A |
For the benefit of those in the RV community who have completed their airplane
and those who are currently building and are dreaming about places to fly, I have
summarized my concerns, flight planning and pertinent data of our February
2005 trip from Denver. CO to Managua, Nicaragua.
I would have liked to have included some of the great aerial photos of this very
interesting, unusable and enjoyable trip. However, I lack the know-how of
setting up a web site.
Equipment:
"Stock" RV-6A, new O-360 1A1; original had the Lasar ignition system, now regular
Slick mags (post coming up), fixed pitch prop, night VFR with gyros, Navaid
autopilot, hand-held GPS (Garmin 195), now 495 total time.
Trip statistics:
1) GPS distance flown: 5110 nmls (includes one 100 nmls local flight in Guatemala)
= 5880 st mls [equals great circle distance from Denver to Athens,
Greece; or Denver to Point Barrow, North Slope, Alaska round trip ]
2) Trip tach hours: 34.0 (I cruise at 2450 rpm: 1 tach hr = 1 clock
hr)
3) Total fuel burned: 298 gl at average cost of $ 2.88/gl (includes a $6.50
fuel navigation fees levied each fueling in Mexico)
4) Total fees for permits, landing, parking etc : $297.- for a total out of pocket
airplane cost of $1,211.-
5) Landed at 15 different airports
Preflight Planning/Permits/Fees
Forget about contacting either AOPA or EAA about experimental airplanes and flying south of the border! AOPA gave me verbally incorrect information. Helpful advice can be obtained from Baja Bush Pilots (www.bajabushpilots.com). They sell an airport directory for Mexican airports. Because of its bulk and weight, I did not purchase one.
The best practical advise I received was from fellow pilots of the Colorado Pilots
Association ( CPA) who had been in Central America in the last couple of
years. I did have a lot of questions and concerns about permits etc.
The most useful advise I received and followed: Set up a binder containing copies
of all airplane-related documents such as pilot's license and medical, registration,
airworthiness certificate, and insurance policy (see comment below).
These documents are a must have. I even included weight and balance and a
picture of the airplane.
AOPA's real flight planner was very helpful for the initial and overview planning.
A) Entering Mexico: No prior permits are required to fly into Mexico. Just file
a flight plan in the USA or from Central America. if you are coming back
You may receive a squawk code. Confirm the approach or tower frequency for the
port of entry (POE). You can fly way past the international border as long
the first airport is a POE. I used the listing of the Pilot Express Directory
to check if a specific airport is a POE. This listing came in handy, as my return
flight plan changed.
Mexico requires that you have liability insurance. Because of recent Mexican changes,
it is no longer a requirement to purchase liability insurance from a
Mexican company, as long your US insurance company states that you are covered
in Mexico. I have my insurance with AIG ('JT' Holmes, agent for Nation Air).
My policy specifically states " ...political boundaries of the United States
of America, Mexico, Central America, Canada. the Islands of the West Indies
(excluding Cuba) and while en route between places therein" . I choose not to
buy extra insurance. Just prior to my departure I had the bright idea to get
something written in Spanish, as some Mexican custom officials do not read or
speak English.'JT' e-mailed me a cover letter both in English and Spanish stating
the specific pages where it states that my policies covers Mexico. A copy
of this cover letter plus the two main pages of the policy including the page
stating the countries/region covered was extremely
helpful to get the permits. Thanks are due to 'JT' for a speedy reply!
Now Mexico will issue a multiple entry permit, good for the calendar year applied
for. Insist of in, if you plan to fly more than one time to Mexico. It costs
the same (502 pesos ~ $45.-) as the single entry permit. Now in my case
I did had to buy two of these permits, as the one issued in Tampico, my initial
POE, states "..multiple entries in 2005 FROM the United States of America.."
After waiting for almost four hours to get this permit, I did not realize this
discrepancy until the return trip. Yes, I had to buy an other permit coming
from Guatemala because of the restrictive wording. I really do not know, if
one will be able to get one permit stating to enter Mexico "...dese Estados
Unides De America o Centro America" ! By the way, I had to show these permits
at every airport. Yes, the Mexican are very bureaucratic and like their paperwork!!
B) IN Mexico: There is now a new fixed Navigation fee levied every time you buy
fuel. 100 gl or 1 gl, it is 70 pesos (~$6.30), This fee depends on the wing
span. The RV ended up in the BE 35 category, which has wingspan less than
10 meters.
At all airports there is a charge for parking, landing, or misc. Not much (between
$6.85 including 2 days parking to $16.45 incl. 3 day parking) , but time
consuming paperwork. Pay in pesos, and save ~10% =/-. Most fuel can be paid
with a credit card, but they will charge an additional 4% for Visa or MC. American
Express seems to be the preferred cards for fuel charges.
C) Leaving Mexico: You must leave Mexico from a POE. Flying to Guatemala we filled
up in Tuxlan [MMTG], which is not a POE. So we had to make an other stop
in Tapachula [MMTP]. On the return trip we did fuel and checked out in Guaymas,
the most efficient fuel/flightplan filing/paperstuff airport we landed in
all of Mexico
Guatemala, El Salvador and Nicaragua
Advanced permission, usually 24 hrs,are needed to land or overfly Central American
countries. Either fax or (?) phone the DGAC (Dereccion General de Aeronautical
Civil). Fax seems to work best particularly if you have a fax number
for a reply. Baja Pilot Association has a list for these numbers. If you get
a reply, you will get an authorization number. Since I joined a group of 5 CPA
planes in Guatemala City [MGGT] one batch request was send for all 6 planes
to the three countries. The request contained the following information: 1) date
of landing or overflight (use a window date or 'about') 2) departure airport
(give two or more if not sure), 3) POE, 4) Aircraft type {Experimental RV-6A}
and registration or N number, 4) Pilot's name and license number, 5) copilots
name and license number or passenger name and citizenship, and purpose of
flight (tourism).
In Guatemala we needed a permit for a local flight. If I remember correctly it
was free, but needed the permit number for the flight plan.
Fuel and Fees
All 11airports south of the border I landed, had 100/130 fuel. Prices varied between
$2.75 to $5.00/gl. The trip average including US was $2.88/gl The highest
was paid in US cash and with a prearrangement in Managua [MN MG]. Interestingly
in Guatemala they use gallons, all other places it is liters.
Landing, parking (even at customs while checking in or out), navigation and or
other fees are collected the all airports with control towers. These fees ranged
between $6.85 for 2 days parking and landing fees (P0za Rica, MX [MMTP])
to $85.50 for 8 days of parking plus fees(Managua, Nicaragua [MNMG]).
Since we arrived and departed from [MNMG] as a group, we decided on using a handler
which charged each airplane $56.57, a rip off in my books. Talking about
handlers, these are paid companies who handle all the paperwork (immigration,
customs, flight planning, fees etc) at airports. Corporate pilots/owner like
to use them to avoid personal hassle of the paper war. With a little patience,
a smile, and a few Spanish words you do not need a handler!
Communication, Flight Plans and Navigation
All controllers spoke English. Some better than others, but always understandable.
I always read frequencies etc back which where answered with "correct".
For me it looks like each controlled airport is like a little empire. When
leaving one controlled airport they advise on the frequency for the next airport,
even it this airport is 200 nmls away. My impression was that most airports
in Mexico did not have radar. The best communication/English and radar cover
was over El Salvador.
Since the entire flight was VFR, I did not follow airways. It worked great as
I told the controllers I was on a VFR flight.
Flight plans are required when leaving from a controlled airport. First you close
and then file if there is no overnight stay. Pay your fees either on arrival
and departure or both times. Ask for weather forecasts or current conditions
of your route. At one place the regular system was down so they called up
the tower who then called up at destination for weather info. At other places
they used the Weather Channel, NASA's site, or other commercial sites in order
to get the big picture.
I used a handheld moving map GPS (Garmin 195) and ONC charts for back up/following.
The GPS had all the frequencies, airport data etc. This was one of my big
worries, as the ONC charts do not have any airport information except field
elevation. The ONC charts are really outdated but serve as a vital backup for
big picture: elevations, rivers, coast lines, lakes etc.. NOTE: It is important
that you cut up and prepare these charts prior to your flight!!!
General Comment /Advice
It is not as convenient to fly south of the border as it is to fly here in the
States, BUT the air is the same and the scenery and people are tremendous, different,
and friendly! Once you have mastered that you are not in the States,
speak a couple of Spanish words (si, no, por favor -> is almost enough), and
realize that you are a visitor, you can have a lot of fun. If you stay away from
the big tourist places, prices are lower, since prices in general at not so
favorable any more than a couple of decades ago..
>> bring long enough tie down ropes, as tie down rings are for BIG planes
>> bring chokes, as some airports do not have tie down rings (leaving your parking
brakes on for a long period could bust the brake seals due to heat expansion)
>> the jury is still out about to cover your plane. I did so in Managua for a
week only to discover that dust got UNDER the tarp. The constant wind than did
some rubbing slightly dulling some spots on the cover. A cover certainly keeps
the inside cooler, possible discourages unwanted entry etc.
In summary, I had no problems flying my RVdown south and my advise: .. ..expand
your horizon and fly south!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Central American Trip with RV-6A |
For the benefit of those in the RV community who have completed their airplane
and those who are currently building and are dreaming about places to fly, I have
summarized my concerns, flight planning and pertinent data of our February
2005 trip from Denver. CO to Managua, Nicaragua.
I would have liked to have included some of the great aerial photos of this very
interesting, unusable and enjoyable trip. However, I lack the know-how of
setting up a web site.
Equipment:
"Stock" RV-6A, new O-360 1A1; original had the Lasar ignition system, now regular
Slick mags (post coming up), fixed pitch prop, night VFR with gyros, Navaid
autopilot, hand-held GPS (Garmin 195), now 495 total time.
Trip statistics:
1) GPS distance flown: 5110 nmls (includes one 100 nmls local flight in Guatemala)
= 5880 st mls [equals great circle distance from Denver to Athens,
Greece; or Denver to Point Barrow, North Slope, Alaska round trip ]
2) Trip tach hours: 34.0 (I cruise at 2450 rpm: 1 tach hr = 1 clock
hr)
3) Total fuel burned: 298 gl at average cost of $ 2.88/gl (includes a $6.50
fuel navigation fees levied each fueling in Mexico)
4) Total fees for permits, landing, parking etc : $297.- for a total out of pocket
airplane cost of $1,211.-
5) Landed at 15 different airports
Preflight Planning/Permits/Fees
Forget about contacting either AOPA or EAA about experimental airplanes and flying south of the border! AOPA gave me verbally incorrect information. Helpful advice can be obtained from Baja Bush Pilots (www.bajabushpilots.com). They sell an airport directory for Mexican airports. Because of its bulk and weight, I did not purchase one.
The best practical advise I received was from fellow pilots of the Colorado Pilots
Association ( CPA) who had been in Central America in the last couple of
years. I did have a lot of questions and concerns about permits etc.
The most useful advise I received and followed: Set up a binder containing copies
of all airplane-related documents such as pilot's license and medical, registration,
airworthiness certificate, and insurance policy (see comment below).
These documents are a must have. I even included weight and balance and a
picture of the airplane.
AOPA's real flight planner was very helpful for the initial and overview planning.
A) Entering Mexico: No prior permits are required to fly into Mexico. Just file
a flight plan in the USA or from Central America. if you are coming back
You may receive a squawk code. Confirm the approach or tower frequency for the
port of entry (POE). You can fly way past the international border as long
the first airport is a POE. I used the listing of the Pilot Express Directory
to check if a specific airport is a POE. This listing came in handy, as my return
flight plan changed.
Mexico requires that you have liability insurance. Because of recent Mexican changes,
it is no longer a requirement to purchase liability insurance from a
Mexican company, as long your US insurance company states that you are covered
in Mexico. I have my insurance with AIG ('JT' Holmes, agent for Nation Air).
My policy specifically states " ...political boundaries of the United States
of America, Mexico, Central America, Canada. the Islands of the West Indies
(excluding Cuba) and while en route between places therein" . I choose not to
buy extra insurance. Just prior to my departure I had the bright idea to get
something written in Spanish, as some Mexican custom officials do not read or
speak English.'JT' e-mailed me a cover letter both in English and Spanish stating
the specific pages where it states that my policies covers Mexico. A copy
of this cover letter plus the two main pages of the policy including the page
stating the countries/region covered was extremely
helpful to get the permits. Thanks are due to 'JT' for a speedy reply!
Now Mexico will issue a multiple entry permit, good for the calendar year applied
for. Insist of in, if you plan to fly more than one time to Mexico. It costs
the same (502 pesos ~ $45.-) as the single entry permit. Now in my case
I did had to buy two of these permits, as the one issued in Tampico, my initial
POE, states "..multiple entries in 2005 FROM the United States of America.."
After waiting for almost four hours to get this permit, I did not realize this
discrepancy until the return trip. Yes, I had to buy an other permit coming
from Guatemala because of the restrictive wording. I really do not know, if
one will be able to get one permit stating to enter Mexico "...dese Estados
Unides De America o Centro America" ! By the way, I had to show these permits
at every airport. Yes, the Mexican are very bureaucratic and like their paperwork!!
B) IN Mexico: There is now a new fixed Navigation fee levied every time you buy
fuel. 100 gl or 1 gl, it is 70 pesos (~$6.30), This fee depends on the wing
span. The RV ended up in the BE 35 category, which has wingspan less than
10 meters.
At all airports there is a charge for parking, landing, or misc. Not much (between
$6.85 including 2 days parking to $16.45 incl. 3 day parking) , but time
consuming paperwork. Pay in pesos, and save ~10% =/-. Most fuel can be paid
with a credit card, but they will charge an additional 4% for Visa or MC. American
Express seems to be the preferred cards for fuel charges.
C) Leaving Mexico: You must leave Mexico from a POE. Flying to Guatemala we filled
up in Tuxlan [MMTG], which is not a POE. So we had to make an other stop
in Tapachula [MMTP]. On the return trip we did fuel and checked out in Guaymas,
the most efficient fuel/flightplan filing/paperstuff airport we landed in
all of Mexico
Guatemala, El Salvador and Nicaragua
Advanced permission, usually 24 hrs,are needed to land or overfly Central American
countries. Either fax or (?) phone the DGAC (Dereccion General de Aeronautical
Civil). Fax seems to work best particularly if you have a fax number
for a reply. Baja Pilot Association has a list for these numbers. If you get
a reply, you will get an authorization number. Since I joined a group of 5 CPA
planes in Guatemala City [MGGT] one batch request was send for all 6 planes
to the three countries. The request contained the following information: 1) date
of landing or overflight (use a window date or 'about') 2) departure airport
(give two or more if not sure), 3) POE, 4) Aircraft type {Experimental RV-6A}
and registration or N number, 4) Pilot's name and license number, 5) copilots
name and license number or passenger name and citizenship, and purpose of
flight (tourism).
In Guatemala we needed a permit for a local flight. If I remember correctly it
was free, but needed the permit number for the flight plan.
Fuel and Fees
All 11airports south of the border I landed, had 100/130 fuel. Prices varied between
$2.75 to $5.00/gl. The trip average including US was $2.88/gl The highest
was paid in US cash and with a prearrangement in Managua [MN MG]. Interestingly
in Guatemala they use gallons, all other places it is liters.
Landing, parking (even at customs while checking in or out), navigation and or
other fees are collected the all airports with control towers. These fees ranged
between $6.85 for 2 days parking and landing fees (P0za Rica, MX [MMTP])
to $85.50 for 8 days of parking plus fees(Managua, Nicaragua [MNMG]).
Since we arrived and departed from [MNMG] as a group, we decided on using a handler
which charged each airplane $56.57, a rip off in my books. Talking about
handlers, these are paid companies who handle all the paperwork (immigration,
customs, flight planning, fees etc) at airports. Corporate pilots/owner like
to use them to avoid personal hassle of the paper war. With a little patience,
a smile, and a few Spanish words you do not need a handler!
Communication, Flight Plans and Navigation
All controllers spoke English. Some better than others, but always understandable.
I always read frequencies etc back which where answered with "correct".
For me it looks like each controlled airport is like a little empire. When
leaving one controlled airport they advise on the frequency for the next airport,
even it this airport is 200 nmls away. My impression was that most airports
in Mexico did not have radar. The best communication/English and radar cover
was over El Salvador.
Since the entire flight was VFR, I did not follow airways. It worked great as
I told the controllers I was on a VFR flight.
Flight plans are required when leaving from a controlled airport. First you close
and then file if there is no overnight stay. Pay your fees either on arrival
and departure or both times. Ask for weather forecasts or current conditions
of your route. At one place the regular system was down so they called up
the tower who then called up at destination for weather info. At other places
they used the Weather Channel, NASA's site, or other commercial sites in order
to get the big picture.
I used a handheld moving map GPS (Garmin 195) and ONC charts for back up/following.
The GPS had all the frequencies, airport data etc. This was one of my big
worries, as the ONC charts do not have any airport information except field
elevation. The ONC charts are really outdated but serve as a vital backup for
big picture: elevations, rivers, coast lines, lakes etc.. NOTE: It is important
that you cut up and prepare these charts prior to your flight!!!
General Comment /Advice
It is not as convenient to fly south of the border as it is to fly here in the
States, BUT the air is the same and the scenery and people are tremendous, different,
and friendly! Once you have mastered that you are not in the States,
speak a couple of Spanish words (si, no, por favor -> is almost enough), and
realize that you are a visitor, you can have a lot of fun. If you stay away from
the big tourist places, prices are lower, since prices in general at not so
favorable any more than a couple of decades ago..
>> bring long enough tie down ropes, as tie down rings are for BIG planes
>> bring chokes, as some airports do not have tie down rings (leaving your parking
brakes on for a long period could bust the brake seals due to heat expansion)
>> the jury is still out about to cover your plane. I did so in Managua for a
week only to discover that dust got UNDER the tarp. The constant wind than did
some rubbing slightly dulling some spots on the cover. A cover certainly keeps
the inside cooler, possible discourages unwanted entry etc.
In summary, I had no problems flying my RVdown south and my advise: .. ..expand
your horizon and fly south!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind propellers |
Good idea Jon, I just joined it. Doug Reeves also has Propeller forum on his
new setup that we could utilize.
Is anyone concerned about the sale of Whirl Wind to new owners?
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: "jonweisw" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Whirlwind propellers
>
> I have started this for those of us with the WW propellers to initiate
> discussion and trade experiences with their line of propellers.
>
> The link is:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/whirlwindpropellers
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon Weiswasser
> N898JW, RV-8, WW200RV
> 100h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Mission Scrubbed - No Fuel Pressure HELP |
Hi All,
Yesterday, I had to scrub my mission of enjoying a beautiful, albeit late,
spring day. My EI fuel computer indicated no fuel flow as I went through my
usual procedure to start the IO-360 in my -4. Initially, I suspected the
flow transducer, but when the engine would not start, I decided the
transuducer may be OK.
I removed the cowl and removed the fuel line that feeds the Airflow
Performance (AP) fuel spider. Sure enough, no flow to the spider when I
turned on the boost pump. The pump however made "pumpng" noises and drew
2.5 to 3 amps.
I then removed the fuel line between the boost pump and the filter and found
good flow when I turned on the pump. Reviewing the AP manual shows a
check-valve that can re-circulate fuel if the discharge line does not allow
flow.
Since I was getting no flow to the engine, as opposed to reduced flow, I
suspected the fuel servo. I removed the line feeding the fuel servo and
found no flow when operating the boost pump. In my mind, I had now isolated
the blockage to either the fuel filter or the engine-driven fuel pump. The
EI fuel flow transducer is downstream from the fuel servo, so it cannot be
the culprit.
I next disassembled the AP fuel filter and found it to be clean. Removing
the fuel line from the discharge end of the filter confirmed flow. I then
removed the fuel line from the inlet side of the engine-driven fuel pump and
confirmed flow through everything between the boost pump and the line that
feeds the engine-driven pump.
Now, I'm stuck. For reasons unknown to me, I am not getting flow through
the engine driven pump. I would expect this (Lycoming) engine diaphragm
pump to fail "open" such that any failure mode would still allow flow to the
engine. Yet, the blockage appears to occur at the pump or the line on the
discharge side of the pump - which seems even less likely. At no time, am I
loosing fuel when I attempt to pump through the "blocked" system.
Have any Listers experienced similar problems with their aircraft? I am
dreading removing the pump as it is in such a difficult place to access. I
woulld like to be more certain the pump is the issue before I begin its
removal. Any help would be most appreciated. By the way, I flew the
aircraft the day before without incident.
Regards,
Dean Pichon
Bolton, MA
RV-4, 254 hours
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mission Scrubbed - No Fuel Pressure HELP |
Dean, I dont have a fuel flow meter, so not sure where the spider is, asume
it is someplace in the line between engine pump and carb? Unless you kill
your engine by shutting off fuel selector rather than pulling mixture, I
would think there should be enuff gas in the carb bowl to start it. I havent
heard of a fuel pump going bad while sitting overnight. charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Mission Scrubbed - No Fuel Pressure HELP
Hi All,
Yesterday, I had to scrub my mission of enjoying a beautiful, albeit late,
spring day. My EI fuel computer indicated no fuel flow as I went through my
usual procedure to start the IO-360 in my -4. Initially, I suspected the
flow transducer, but when the engine would not start, I decided the
transuducer may be OK.
I removed the cowl and removed the fuel line that feeds the Airflow
Performance (AP) fuel spider. Sure enough, no flow to the spider when I
turned on the boost pump. The pump however made "pumpng" noises and drew
2.5 to 3 amps.
I then removed the fuel line between the boost pump and the filter and found
good flow when I turned on the pump. Reviewing the AP manual shows a
check-valve that can re-circulate fuel if the discharge line does not allow
flow.
Since I was getting no flow to the engine, as opposed to reduced flow, I
suspected the fuel servo. I removed the line feeding the fuel servo and
found no flow when operating the boost pump. In my mind, I had now isolated
the blockage to either the fuel filter or the engine-driven fuel pump. The
EI fuel flow transducer is downstream from the fuel servo, so it cannot be
the culprit.
I next disassembled the AP fuel filter and found it to be clean. Removing
the fuel line from the discharge end of the filter confirmed flow. I then
removed the fuel line from the inlet side of the engine-driven fuel pump and
confirmed flow through everything between the boost pump and the line that
feeds the engine-driven pump.
Now, I'm stuck. For reasons unknown to me, I am not getting flow through
the engine driven pump. I would expect this (Lycoming) engine diaphragm
pump to fail "open" such that any failure mode would still allow flow to the
engine. Yet, the blockage appears to occur at the pump or the line on the
discharge side of the pump - which seems even less likely. At no time, am I
loosing fuel when I attempt to pump through the "blocked" system.
Have any Listers experienced similar problems with their aircraft? I am
dreading removing the pump as it is in such a difficult place to access. I
woulld like to be more certain the pump is the issue before I begin its
removal. Any help would be most appreciated. By the way, I flew the
aircraft the day before without incident.
Regards,
Dean Pichon
Bolton, MA
RV-4, 254 hours
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Adventures in Priming--long ramble |
Well folks,
Took a long weekend to sort out the priming issue. This required a few hours
to do other projects. Built a pair of workbenches per the EAA chapter 100
plans. Worked very well. In my usual compulsive style, I spent too much time
finishing them and making them pretty. One is covered in heavy speaker cabinet
cloth so as to not scratch skins. The other is stained a nice red oak with a
dense oil finish. Easy to recoat when the surface gets too marred.
At any rate, I spend a bunch of hours scrubbing all the ribs and spars with
MEK and scotchbrite. This was followed by Alumiprep and then brush-on Alodine.
I did both of these treatments essentially out of a bucket. I think next
time I will build a little trough and just soak them. The alodine did not seem
to go on really evenly with the brush-on approach. Never-the-less, I got a
good covering over everything.
Today I primed using AKZO two part epoxy. On someone's recommendation, I got
a Sharpe cobalt gun with a 1.8 tip. Seemed to work exceptionally well. I
had never used a spray gun so it took me a while to sort out the knobs. My only
complaint is that the empennage parts are pretty small and so there was a
fair amount of overspray. Can anyone tell me it there is a way to decrease the
size of the fan? The gun did not come with instructions so I read here and
there and experimented. Maybe what I need is an airbrush for the small spots.
The AKZO dries very quickly. After about ten minutes, you can pick up the
pieces and inspect for misses. I was also surprized at how little paint I used:
two cups total did the entire structure with some to spare. I am assuming
that since there is a solid coat of paint that I cannot see through that it is
thick enough. I did put a double coat on the non-alclad spar pieces.
Next step is riveting all of this together. After all the hours of prep
work, I am nervous about fouling it all up with a mis-rivet.
Thanks to everyone for all the opinions and help.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mission Scrubbed - No Fuel Pressure HELP |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)nomadwi.com> |
Greetings all:
I just experienced a vaguely similar situation in my RV-4 (carb, Aerosport,
0-360.
Last week while buzzing along at altitude my EI fuel computer's FF reading
began to vary (it has always been rock solid.. In this case at cruise it was
reading 8.5 gph). It dropped to as low as 3.5 gph but the engine ran fine
and all other readings were normal.
After a couple minutes it resumed a normal reading and was fine the rest of
the trip.
Today I flew around and discovered the FF reading was now consistently low
(3.4 gph at normal cruise when it should have been 8.5). Powering back to
17" of MP it drops to zero. All other indications are normal and the engine
runs fine. Tomorrow I call EI for some advice but do any of you folks have
any ideas.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, 170 hours TT
On 3/20/05 3:57 PM, "Dean Pichon" wrote:
> .
Sent using the Microsoft Entourage 2004 for Mac Test Drive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <maurv8(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirlwind propellers |
Randy,
I'm very concerned. This is first I have heard about the sale. Can you
elaborate?
I'm planning on using their 200RV but won't need it for about a year.
Mauri Morin
RV-8
Polson,Mt.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Whirlwind propellers
>
> Good idea Jon, I just joined it. Doug Reeves also has Propeller forum on
> his
> new setup that we could utilize.
>
> Is anyone concerned about the sale of Whirl Wind to new owners?
>
> Randy Lervold
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jonweisw" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Whirlwind propellers
>
>
>>
>> I have started this for those of us with the WW propellers to initiate
>> discussion and trade experiences with their line of propellers.
>>
>> The link is:
>>
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/whirlwindpropellers
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jon Weiswasser
>> N898JW, RV-8, WW200RV
>> 100h
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mission Scrubbed - No Fuel Pressure HELP |
Hi Doug,
The flow sensor if a very delicate instrument with a little turbine on a
tiny jeweled bearing. Since you're engine continued to run the sensor is
logically the culprit. If you can't can't remove any debris then expect to
replace it, and they're not cheap! E.I. is now shipping their own
proprietary flow sensor rather than using the Floscan 201 like everyone
else. Supposedly it has some real improvements. Consider upgrading if you
don't already have one.
Randy Lervold
RV-3B, fuselage/finish
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
> I just experienced a vaguely similar situation in my RV-4 (carb,
Aerosport,
> 0-360.
>
> Last week while buzzing along at altitude my EI fuel computer's FF reading
> began to vary (it has always been rock solid.. In this case at cruise it
was
> reading 8.5 gph). It dropped to as low as 3.5 gph but the engine ran fine
> and all other readings were normal.
>
> After a couple minutes it resumed a normal reading and was fine the rest
of
> the trip.
>
> Today I flew around and discovered the FF reading was now consistently low
> (3.4 gph at normal cruise when it should have been 8.5). Powering back to
> 17" of MP it drops to zero. All other indications are normal and the
engine
> runs fine. Tomorrow I call EI for some advice but do any of you folks
have
> any ideas.
>
> Doug Weiler
> RV-4, 170 hours TT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire clamps |
In a message dated 3/20/2005 10:18:42 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
rv8striker(at)hotmail.com writes:
Anybody know where to get ignition wire clamps for two leads? I've seen them
on production airplanes so I know they are available. The archives had a
hit, but the link is dead.
ACS.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: wing incidence |
In a message dated 03/19/2005 11:22:38 PM Central Standard Time,
jorear(at)new.rr.com writes:
I don't have my wings installed yet, so I am just speculating here. Am I
concerned over nothing??
>>>>
Maybe- I barely had to nudge mine until the bubble centered, but they would
move up/down pretty easily maybe 1/4" each way, but this was before installing
all them stinking spar bolts!
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | flap motor repair tip |
I broke one of my brushes in half with needle nose pliers, by not being real careful.
The problem would have been avoided had I used the twist tie that is explained
in the article on Van's web site and mentioned by others recently on
this list.
The brush looks like it is made from compressed brass (or some other conductive
metal) dust.
Tom Barnes -6 flap motor failed at 80 hours. Performs without flaw now for 12+
hours after cleaning.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Greasy flap motors, cont'd |
Scott,
That's one way to fix an electrical problem!
OK, here's some more data. Mine problem was evidentially a different
failure mode than Harry's. I removed the brush end of the motor and found almost
NO grease in the motor, except on the brushes. The commutator was black with
oil that wiped right off. I cleaned it up with a clean rag, cleaned the
brushes with alcohol, and put it back together. I won't be able to fly the
airplane for about 2 months, so you won't know for a while how long it lasted.
I
don't know where the oil came from. Maybe its from the little ball bearing
race. BTW, I was able to use some #28 insulated copper wire to wire the
brush springs back during reassembly.
In case anyone needs this information, the motor was made by Motion Systems
Corp. Eatontown, NJ.
The label on the motor reads:
9234C120-R7
73633 12 VDC
08-21-01
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A
The fix (last time I check with Vans) was as Harry said, to clean the
motor. I couldn't put up with this so I went back to manual flaps.
Electric Flaps - 3 failures
Manual Flaps - 0 failures
I'm sold!
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
>
>Harry,
>
>Here's another data point.
>
>I too hoped that mine one of the "good" flap motors. After flying about
70
>trouble free hours since last July my flap motor quit a week ago. I was
>taking the airplane to the local painter about 30 miles from here who has
a short
>grass strip. When I was in the landing pattern, the flaps went halfway
down
>and would not go either up or down after that. Great, my first landing
>without full flaps when I really needed them. My plane is somewhat
"nose-heavy"
>since it has an angle valve engine and CS prop, so I was a little nervous,
>but there was no problem. I was glad because I had just buzzed his shop
and he
>was out watching me!
>
>After landing, the flaps worked fine for a couple of cycles, then quit
>again. I played with the switch some more after removing the side panels,
and
>found that just touching the end of the motor shaft where it sticks out was
>enough to get it to run again. No, I don't recommend this as a fix!
>
>I haven't taken it apart yet. Is there a "permanent" fix?
>
>Regards,
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A (Flying since last July, now finally being painted)
>
>do not archive
>
>
>In a message dated 3/20/05 3:52:56 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
>HCRV6(at)aol.com writes:
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6(at)aol.com
>
>Just another data point in the saga of the greasy flap motors. My flap
>motor
>quit at 47.4 hours. I had hoped I was safe from the cursed greasy motor
>syndrome but no such luck.
>
>
>Harry Crosby
>Pleasanton, California
>RV-6 N16CX, 45+ hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mission Scrubbed - No Fuel Pressure HELP |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)nomadwi.com> |
That is what I am suspecting. I'll see what they say tomorrow. Nothing
that a big of money probably won't cure.
Doug
On 3/20/05 5:39 PM, "Randy Lervold" wrote:
>
> Hi Doug,
>
> The flow sensor if a very delicate instrument with a little turbine on a
> tiny jeweled bearing. Since you're engine continued to run the sensor is
> logically the culprit. If you can't can't remove any debris then expect to
> replace it, and they're not cheap! E.I. is now shipping their own
> proprietary flow sensor rather than using the Floscan 201 like everyone
> else. Supposedly it has some real improvements. Consider upgrading if you
> don't already have one.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-3B, fuselage/finish
> RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
>
>
>> I just experienced a vaguely similar situation in my RV-4 (carb,
> Aerosport,
>> 0-360.
>>
>> Last week while buzzing along at altitude my EI fuel computer's FF reading
>> began to vary (it has always been rock solid.. In this case at cruise it
> was
>> reading 8.5 gph). It dropped to as low as 3.5 gph but the engine ran fine
>> and all other readings were normal.
>>
>> After a couple minutes it resumed a normal reading and was fine the rest
> of
>> the trip.
>>
>> Today I flew around and discovered the FF reading was now consistently low
>> (3.4 gph at normal cruise when it should have been 8.5). Powering back to
>> 17" of MP it drops to zero. All other indications are normal and the
> engine
>> runs fine. Tomorrow I call EI for some advice but do any of you folks
> have
>> any ideas.
>>
>> Doug Weiler
>> RV-4, 170 hours TT
>
>
>
>
>
>
Sent using the Microsoft Entourage 2004 for Mac Test Drive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Greasy flap motors, cont'd |
Dan,
I had the same type of failure at about 120 hours. Flaps went down
about 10 deg, then wouldn't budge (in flight.) Once back on the ground
they worked normally. I took the motot apart and had the exact
situation you described. Cleaned it up real good (including scraping
the gunk from between the sections on the commutator with a dentist's
pick) and put it back together. No problems since. The consensus
theory was that the motor would operate when gunked up, but not generate
full power. This is why the flaps work on the ground but not in flight,
with air loads.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prepping. Priming, Painting, |
Etc.))
In a message dated 03/20/2005 9:31:41 AM Central Standard Time,
dwight(at)openweave.org writes:
Imagine you have come up with a new great way to install wingtips
>>>>>>
OK, so I really do have a neat new way to install wingtips- why not just ask
here? (I really do- I used hinges just like the cowling and if y'all want
more info, let me know!)
WDNNSPOSFTPWIT (We Don't Need No Steenking Platenuts Or Screws From The
PossumWorks In Tennessee)
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Sebok" <ksebok(at)chinita.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flap motor repair tip |
I've been flying my F-1 for 104 hours now, have had the flap motor fail
twice in that time period. First was at 45 hours, second at 92 hours, both
preceded by intermittent operation. The first time, I removed the motor
(not a simple task), disassembled, and cleaned the brushes, per numerous
messages on the list. After cleaning, the motor worked well for 47 hours.
The second time, after researching the list for any new updates on the
problem, found a message that someone from Van's recommended disassembling
the motor, cleaning, and lubricating using 3-in-1 oil. Figuring it was
worth a shot to try w/ a shortcut, I placed 2 drops of 3-in-1 oil on the end
of the vertical shaft at the center of the motor. After letting the oil
lubricate down the shaft for a few minutes, I tried the motor again, and it
miraculously worked. Twelve hours later, it's still working, without any
problems. Not sure why this alleviated the need for the cleaning step,
YMMV.
Ken Sebok
F-1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | cockpit noise abatement? |
This is probably a stretch but has anyone actually done a before and after type
test on adding one of the *popular* heat/noise abatement materials onto the firewall?
I've ridden in a few different RVs of various makes and they were all
loud and were hot or cold depending on what the outside was doing. Can't recall
my feet in a side by side being influenced by firewall temp. Some were all
decked out in leather and filled in panels everywhere and some were plain.
I didn't seem to notice the difference. My hunch is closing off the big fuse
holes like ailerons and such will probably help the most but now is the time for
March 14, 2005 - March 20, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-qq