RV-Archive.digest.vol-qr
March 20, 2005 - March 28, 2005
me to finish off the firewall barrier if I do it at all.
thx,
lucky
This is probably a stretch but has anyone actually done a before and after type
test on adding one of the *popular* heat/noise abatement materials onto the firewall?
I've ridden in a few different RVs of various makes and they were all
loudand were hot or cold depending on what the outside was doing.Can't recall
my feet in a side by sidebeing influencedby firewall temp.Some were all decked
out in leather and filled in panels everywhere and some were plain. I didn't
seem to notice the difference. My hunch is closing off the big fuse holes like
ailerons and such will probably help the most but now is the time for me to
finish off the firewall barrier if I do it at all.
thx,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <groves(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prepping. Priming, Painting, |
Etc.))
Hey Mark I would like more info on your hinged wing tips!
Thanks
Kirk RV-8
>
> From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
> Date: 2005/03/20 Sun PM 09:04:34 EST
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Wingtips (was RV-Wiki (was: RV-List: Prepping. Priming, Painting,
Etc.))
>
>
> In a message dated 03/20/2005 9:31:41 AM Central Standard Time,
> dwight(at)openweave.org writes:
> Imagine you have come up with a new great way to install wingtips
> >>>>>>
>
> OK, so I really do have a neat new way to install wingtips- why not just ask
> here? (I really do- I used hinges just like the cowling and if y'all want
> more info, let me know!)
>
> WDNNSPOSFTPWIT (We Don't Need No Steenking Platenuts Or Screws From The
> PossumWorks In Tennessee)
>
> Mark Phillips
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prepping. Priming, Painting, |
Etc.))
Mark ... please include me as well and thank you.
Jerry
7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prepping. Priming, Painting, |
Etc.))
Me Too!
Regards,
Bob - RV-8 - N678RC
>
> Hey Mark I would like more info on your hinged wing tips!
> Thanks
> Kirk RV-8
> >
> > From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
> > Date: 2005/03/20 Sun PM 09:04:34 EST
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Wingtips (was RV-Wiki (was: RV-List: Prepping. Priming, Painting,
Etc.))
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 03/20/2005 9:31:41 AM Central Standard Time,
> > dwight(at)openweave.org writes:
> > Imagine you have come up with a new great way to install wingtips
> > >>>>>>
> >
> > OK, so I really do have a neat new way to install wingtips- why not just ask
> > here? (I really do- I used hinges just like the cowling and if y'all want
> > more info, let me know!)
> >
> > WDNNSPOSFTPWIT (We Don't Need No Steenking Platenuts Or Screws From The
> > PossumWorks In Tennessee)
> >
> > Mark Phillips
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | flap motor repair tip |
My 1st RV6A had no problems but broke a wire right at the housing at 300hrs.
My 2nd RV6A I have had to clean about every 100 hours. I can tell when it
needs cleaned because it starts to make a very little whine in the intercom.
Has anyone found a place to buy parts like the brushes. Mine is a Pitman
motor.
John Furey
RV6A 350 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Greasy flap motors, cont'd |
In a message dated 3/20/2005 5:30:09 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
jsflyrv(at)comcast.net writes:
>The fix (last time I check with Vans) was as Harry said, to clean the
>motor. I couldn't put up with this so I went back to manual flaps.
>
>Electric Flaps - 3 failures
>Manual Flaps - 0 failures
>
>I'm sold!
>
>Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
Cessna 150 flap motor system, no failures in 16 years.
=============================
Van's standard Motion Systems Corp. actuator works fine, lasts a long time
since day one on my bird. With some of these Pittman motors lasting thousands
of hours and some lasting only tens of hours, there must be more to the
story here. I would love to look at a someone's failed motor and see if I can
do
the failure analysis and craft an easy fix. Any takers?
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Failure on Motion Control actuators used on Experimental Aircraft |
flaps
Gentlemen-
I am affiliated with a national group of pilots building a series of
aircraft kits made by Van's Aircraft. This aircraft uses your actuator and there
have been some failures related to the Pittman motor used therein. Below is
the text is a letter recently received on our forum, that highlights the
problem in general. I am a Mechanical Engineer working in the Defense Industry
and
my primary interest with our group is to find out how to prevent the
problems that some of our builders are experiencing and ultimately to help make
these aircraft as mechanically safe and reliable as they can be. I have your
product in my plane and it works very well over the past 7 yrs, but some are
having repeated failures over just short periods of operation.
================================Start of text of supporting posting
I removed the brush end of the motor and found almost
NO grease in the motor, except on the brushes. The commutator was black
with
oil that wiped right off. I cleaned it up with a clean rag, cleaned the
brushes with alcohol, and put it back together. I won't be able to fly the
airplane for about 2 months, so you won't know for a while how long it
lasted. I
don't know where the oil came from. Maybe its from the little ball bearing
race. BTW, I was able to use some #28 insulated copper wire to wire the
brush springs back during reassembly.
In case anyone needs this information, the motor was made by Motion Systems
Corp. Eatontown, NJ.
The label on the motor reads:
9234C120-R7
73633 12 VDC
08-21-01
===============================End of text of supporting posting
I have offered to receive any motor actuator to try to understand how they
are failing, but apparently many builders just give up and switch to a manual
system rather than pursue a remedy. Reports indicate that excessive (and in
some rare cases, lack of) lubricating grease is contributing to these
problems.
I would like to engage you in helping to identify and remedy these issues.
Thank you in advance and please advise.
Gary VanRemortel (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley,
CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Whelan Wingtip Strobe Cover Removable? |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All, Stupid question...is the clear glass cover over the strobe flashtube on the
wingtip combo lights (Whelan) removable? Thanks,Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Greasy flap motors, cont'd |
Just curious how the new motor differs from the old one? Different
manufacturer, part #, ???
Jeff Point
Stein Bruch wrote:
>
>Incidentally, my new flap motor has over 250+ trouble free hours.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing incidence |
Jeff, here's the info I received from Van's (8 Feb 2001): "I ran some
number and here's what I came up with...The distance from main spar to rear
spar is 26.58 inches on the RV-6 aircraft.". . . "Now let's look at the
existing rear spar attach joint...we have to install a5/16 inch diameter
bolt through the 1 1/2 inch wide rear spar attach bars. This means that,
for 2 times the bolt diameter edge distance in both the wing side of the
joint and in the fuselage side of the joint, we could slide the rear spar
down by 1/4 inch. How much incidence change will result from this 1/4 inch
rear spar displacement? The angle is the inverse sine of .250 inches
divided by 26.58 inches which equals 0.539 degrees. The amunt of flex in
the main spar is enough to accommodate the 1/4 inch displacement that you
could achieve simply by shifting the rear spar down using the existing joint
dimensions. I don't have a good feel for how much more flex could be
tolerated by the main spar."
So, you can get an extra 1/2 degree (0.54 degrees) by moving the rear spar
down 1/4 inch.
The Van's Drawing 1(side view of aircraft) shows chord line of wing about 11
degrees up from ground line. A CAD drawing I did, shows the Fuselage
Reference Line (FRL) being 11 degrees nose up in 3 point attitude (tail
dragger, and RV-6A with tail down that low on landing) and wing is set
1degree above that, wo chord line of wing is 12 degrees, not the 11 degrees
I measured off the Dwg 1.
From that baseline, I used CAD to see what things I could do to increase
nose up attitude in the 3 point touchdown attitude:
- Add 0.54 degrees by lowering aft spar 1/4" (see first part of e-mail
above)
- Add 0.67 degrees using "long RV-4 gear legs bent to RV-6 axle angle
and special RV-6 eng mount with RV-4 gear leg sockets" - these legs are 2"
longer than stock RV-6 legs.
- Add 0.60 degrees using tire that is 1" greater OD: metric
380X150/15X6.0-5 (-5 is 5 inch rim dia, stock Van's rim for stock 5.00X5
tire)
- Add 0.97 degrees if rotate tailwheel assembly 180 degrees to lower
tail.
------------------
Total delta + 2.78 degrees added to stock 12.0 degrees wing incidence in
3 point attitude = 14.78 degrees.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: wing incidence
>
> List:
>
> Just trying to plan ahead here.....What is the maximum that you can
actually adjust/set the incidence on a 6/6A wing? A full degree?? Half a
degree?? It seems that with the fit of the spars to the fuselage bulkhead
that there would be very little room for making any significant change in
the incidence of the wing.
>
> If you need to change the incidence to any degree, you will have to put
quite a bit of force on the aft edge of the wing to get any movement back
there, thus really putting a heavy shear load on that one poor bolt in the
rear spar.
>
> I don't have my wings installed yet, so I am just speculating here. Am I
concerned over nothing??
>
> Regards,
>
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> Finishing up firewall forward
> Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Whelan Wingtip Strobe Cover Removable? |
In a message dated 3/20/2005 8:19:40 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com writes:
All, Stupid question...is the clear glass cover over the strobe flashtube on
the wingtip combo lights (Whelan) removable?
=====================
Absolutely.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Greasy flap motors, cont'd |
I don't understand why everyone is content to put up with this failure.
This has been occurring for years. There would certainly be an AD
if this was a certified aircraft. If this was happening in your newly
purchased vehicle or any other consumer item we'd be having a fit. The
vendor should be recalling these and repairing/replacing the motors.
The first time someone tries a go around with full flaps that won't
retract
and stuffs it in the ground, I'll bet the problem will get fixed real
fast.
Ed Cole RV6A (manual flaps)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Point
Subject: Re: RV-List: Greasy flap motors, cont'd
Dan,
I had the same type of failure at about 120 hours. Flaps went down
about 10 deg, then wouldn't budge (in flight.) Once back on the ground
they worked normally. I took the motot apart and had the exact
situation you described. Cleaned it up real good (including scraping
the gunk from between the sections on the commutator with a dentist's
pick) and put it back together. No problems since. The consensus
theory was that the motor would operate when gunked up, but not generate
full power. This is why the flaps work on the ground but not in flight,
with air loads.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire clamps |
Here's a direct link to the item on Sac Sky Ranch's site:
http://checkoway.com/url/?s=be0275d1
$2.64 each, part # CH1P026 is the two-wire clamp.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ignition wire clamps
>
> Anybody know where to get ignition wire clamps for two leads? I've seen
them on production airplanes so I know they are available. The archives had
a hit, but the link is dead.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve Struyk
> RV-8, N842S (Res.)
> St. Charles, MO
> 90% done...90% to go!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sterling" <sterling(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Whelan Wingtip Strobe Cover Removable? |
Easily removable with one screw. Very easy to break when it comes out of the
aluminum housing, so be prepared to catch it when you pull the aluminum
housing off. If you drop it and it breaks, it isn't easy on the wallet. If
you do break it, I'll sell you my spare at 1/2 of what Aircraft Spruce gets.
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Whelan Wingtip Strobe Cover Removable?
>
> All, Stupid question...is the clear glass cover over the strobe flashtube
on the wingtip combo lights (Whelan) removable? Thanks,Scott
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jorge Gonzalez <jetpilot(at)powercruising.com> |
I'm selling my RV-4 with 310 hours Total time Airframe and engine SOH.
Details and pictures are at www.barnstormers.com. I've just retired and
can't afford so many toys.
Regards,
Jorge Gonzalez
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Greasy flap motors, cont'd |
GV,
I'm tempted by your offer. Hopefully, someone with an extra actuator will
take you up on it. The thing is -- I have wiped away the evidence. I think
it will probably return, though.
Someone already has to know exactly what the problem is. After all, it has
been fixed hasn't it? Come on Van, give us a hint. You can't be making that
much money selling flap actuators. The bad thing about just ordering a new
one is, how do I know they won't send me one just like I have?
My feeling is that the problem is due to the type of lubricant used in the
gearbox, or possibly the small ball bearing on the commutator end of the
shaft. For example: Lubriplate is very bad about "creeping." If that is the
case
we could take the motor (and gearbox this time) apart again, clean it really
well, and repack it with a different grease. The question is: what grease?
I'll bet Motion Systems Corp. knows what we should use. I may try to call
them today. First I'll call Vans and raise hell -- er, that is, ask them what
could be the problem.
Again, the motor was made by Motion Systems Corp. Eatontown, NJ.
The label on the motor reads:
9234C120-R7
73633 12 VDC
08-21-01
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A
In a message dated 3/20/05 10:24:38 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
Vanremog(at)aol.com writes:
Van's standard Motion Systems Corp. actuator works fine, lasts a long time
since day one on my bird. With some of these Pittman motors lasting
thousands
of hours and some lasting only tens of hours, there must be more to the
story here. I would love to look at a someone's failed motor and see if I
can do
the failure analysis and craft an easy fix. Any takers?
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Capacitance Fuel sender instructions |
We're building a RV-8 fuel tank with capacitance fuel senders.
The capacitance sensor kit is second hand and did not come with
instructions.
Could some tell us were to go to get the instruction or fax/scan them to us?
Thanks
ERic-
RV-8 wings/tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cockpit noise abatement? |
Lucky,
Not noise related, but does relate to some of your post:
Abby at Flightline Interiors sells the pushrod boots for the fuselage at the
wing roots. It would be easier to install them with the wings off.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 3/20/05 9:24:18 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
luckymacy(at)comcast.net writes:
This is probably a stretch but has anyone actually done a before and after
type test on adding one of the *popular* heat/noise abatement materials onto
the firewall? I've ridden in a few different RVs of various makes and they
were all loud and were hot or cold depending on what the outside was doing.
Can't recall my feet in a side by side being influenced by firewall temp. Some
were all decked out in leather and filled in panels everywhere and some were
plain. I didn't seem to notice the difference. My hunch is closing off the
big fuse holes like ailerons and such will probably help the most but now is
the time for me to finish off the firewall barrier if I do it at all.
thx,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Derrick Aubuchon <n184da(at)volcano.net> |
| Subject: | Intermediate Canopy Latch - RV4 |
Greetings Listers,
Well, after 400hrs, I decided that it's finally time to install an
intermediate canopy latch on my RV4,, not wishing to spend another
summer sweltering on the taxiway.
I have seen several variations of the latches over the years, and I am
requesting from my fellow listers,, any photos that they might have
available of whatever is working for their birds.
I think the "coolest" design I had seen was one that I believe was
originally developed by the Bakersfield gang,, using an over-center
type latch mounted on the roll bar,, I remember that there used to be
some drawings related to that type of latch,,??
But any ideas will be appreciated.
Thanks,,
Derrick L. Aubuchon
RV-4: N184DA
Jackson/Westover -Amador County (O70)
n184da(at)volcano.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions |
Eric,
I'd be happy to fax you the instructions, but you may also need the drawing
page which is the same size as the rest of Van's drawings. I could probably
get that copied and mail it to you if you like. Email me offline and we can
make arrangements.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
>
> We're building a RV-8 fuel tank with capacitance fuel senders.
>
> The capacitance sensor kit is second hand and did not come with
> instructions.
>
> Could some tell us were to go to get the instruction or fax/scan them to
us?
>
> Thanks
> ERic-
> RV-8 wings/tanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Failure on Motion Control actuators used on Experimental |
Aircraf...
Gary,
Did you send this post to Motion? Let me make some clarifications. In my
case (that you quoted below) I wouldn't call it a lack of grease. It looked
like the motor was as it should have been, except for the grease or oil on the
commutator and brushes. Also, see my earlier post about being able to make
the motor run by just touching the motor shaft. (This is not possible to do
with the covers over the flap mechanism in the aircraft.) The grease may
have "creeped" out of the ball bearing near the commutator, or down the motor
shaft from the gearbox. I didn't open up the gearbox end of the motor. There
was however some small amount of grease bulging out of a couple of holes
(screw holes?) into the motor from the gearbox. I used a cotton swab to remove
this grease from the motor side.
One thing that may be contributing to these failures is the mounting
position of the actuator. The motor is at the top, but the assembly leans back
about 30 degrees from vertical making the commutator end of the motor lower than
the gearbox.
Nowhere on the motor does it say Pittman, so I'm not sure of the brand.
If no one else volunteers their actuator within a few days, you can have
mine. My airplane is down for at least 2 months anyway. It is in the paint
shop, and we can't rush this guy!
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A
In a message dated 3/20/05 10:48:36 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
Vanremog(at)aol.com writes:
Gentlemen-
I am affiliated with a national group of pilots building a series of
aircraft kits made by Van's Aircraft. This aircraft uses your actuator and
there
have been some failures related to the Pittman motor used therein. Below
is
the text is a letter recently received on our forum, that highlights the
problem in general. I am a Mechanical Engineer working in the Defense
Industry and
my primary interest with our group is to find out how to prevent the
problems that some of our builders are experiencing and ultimately to help
make
these aircraft as mechanically safe and reliable as they can be. I have
your
product in my plane and it works very well over the past 7 yrs, but some
are
having repeated failures over just short periods of operation.
================================Start of text of supporting posting
I removed the brush end of the motor and found almost
NO grease in the motor, except on the brushes. The commutator was black
with
oil that wiped right off. I cleaned it up with a clean rag, cleaned the
brushes with alcohol, and put it back together. I won't be able to fly
the
airplane for about 2 months, so you won't know for a while how long it
lasted. I
don't know where the oil came from. Maybe its from the little ball
bearing
race. BTW, I was able to use some #28 insulated copper wire to wire the
brush springs back during reassembly.
In case anyone needs this information, the motor was made by Motion
Systems
Corp. Eatontown, NJ.
The label on the motor reads:
9234C120-R7
73633 12 VDC
08-21-01
===============================End of text of supporting posting
I have offered to receive any motor actuator to try to understand how they
are failing, but apparently many builders just give up and switch to a
manual
system rather than pursue a remedy. Reports indicate that excessive (and
in
some rare cases, lack of) lubricating grease is contributing to these
problems.
I would like to engage you in helping to identify and remedy these issues.
Thank you in advance and please advise.
Gary VanRemortel (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley,
CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF |
llie, Im entering loves landing in 296, what is runw num and lenth, and
elev? charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF
ATTENTION ALL---Mark your calendars now for one of the best fly-in Bar-BQ
lunch in the Southeast. We will be serving lunch at noon and there will be
coffee and donuts for the early birds.There is no rain date so come rain or
shine, hopefully shine.
Place----- Loves Landing Airpark, 97FL 130* 21.5 nm from Ocala VOR
N 28*57.42 W 081*53.29
What----- Smoked Bar-BQ pork (takes 2 days), Hamburgers,Hotdogs and all the
other fixns.
When---- Lunch at noon and coffee & donuts for early birds
Price---- $6.00 donation which includes everything
Note---This is a private airpark, land at your own risk.
Ollie Washburn 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions |
Send me your address Eric....I believe I have an extra set of drawings for
this. I have installed a ton of these now and its no big deal....just takes
time.
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
>
> We're building a RV-8 fuel tank with capacitance fuel senders.
>
> The capacitance sensor kit is second hand and did not come with
> instructions.
>
> Could some tell us were to go to get the instruction or fax/scan them to
us?
>
> Thanks
> ERic-
> RV-8 wings/tanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Lighting |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Charles,
I received your answer to the Nova supplier but lost the info.
Would you please send me it again. I found the Weilan system far to
expensive.
Jim Nelson
N599RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk> |
Hi all,
Question:
How much difference in wing incidence did you end up with, and what
difference did it make to the roll trim ??
I'm drilling / reaming the rear spar attach on my RV3B, and have read the
info in Van's FAQs and RV-List archives.
I did this as carefully as I knew how, but now find a difference of maybe
0.1 - 0.2 deg between the wings has crept in somehow.
The right wing attach bolt is now fitted, and the left attach hole is
drilled to 6 mm, just needing final reaming to 0.246 inch. Edge distances
all good (mostly 5/8 inch, and min allowable on a -3 is 1/2 inch).
I know this difference doesn't sound much, and checking the wings with a
simple bubble level shows only a barely detectable difference. However the
digital level does show a definite fraction of a degree difference. Rather
than try to fix it, possibly with an oversize bolt which will compromise
edge distance, do you think this amount of asymmetry will make much
difference to the trim?
(Some back-of-the-envelope calcs are trying to tell me there will be a roll
moment of 300 lbs/ft at 180 kts . . . ).
How much difference is acceptable generally before you go out of the range
that can be dealt with by adjusting the flaps 'up' position, squeezing
ailerons, etc?
I do want this aeroplane to fly straight, but am I being paranoid here?
Thanks in advance.
Bob (UK)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Lighting |
www.creativair.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Strobe Lighting
>
> Charles,
> I received your answer to the Nova supplier but lost the info.
> Would you please send me it again. I found the Weilan system far to
> expensive.
>
> Jim Nelson
> N599RV (res)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing incidence |
wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Question:
> How much difference in wing incidence did you end up with, and what
> difference did it make to the roll trim ??
No you're not being paranoid. A friend of mine who just flew his F1
for the first time in December initially drilled the rear spar for
1/4" bolts so that some adjustment could be made after the first
flight. That turned out to be a good move. With the right wing being
heavy he bumped the rear spar up to reduce the incidence, bumping it
up nearly 1/16", then drilled it 5/16". Flew it and found that the
left wing felt twice as heavy as the right wing was initially. He then
bumped that wing up 1/32" and drilled it 5/16". The next flight it
flew hands off and straight. While flying formation I verified
sighting down the TE of both wings, all the control surfaces and
wingtips are in perfect alignment.
I hope to get mine dialed in that well.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing incidence |
Ooops, upon re-reading my message after hitting the send button I need
to clarify that he bumped up the left wing to fix the right wing heavy
condition and vise versa.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Question:
> > How much difference in wing incidence did you end up with, and what
> > difference did it make to the roll trim ??
>
> No you're not being paranoid. A friend of mine who just flew his F1
> for the first time in December initially drilled the rear spar for
> 1/4" bolts so that some adjustment could be made after the first
> flight. That turned out to be a good move. With the right wing being
> heavy he bumped the rear spar up to reduce the incidence, bumping it
> up nearly 1/16", then drilled it 5/16". Flew it and found that the
> left wing felt twice as heavy as the right wing was initially. He then
> bumped that wing up 1/32" and drilled it 5/16". The next flight it
> flew hands off and straight. While flying formation I verified
> sighting down the TE of both wings, all the control surfaces and
> wingtips are in perfect alignment.
>
> I hope to get mine dialed in that well.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tech Counselor in FtWorth area? |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Can anyone recommend a EAA Tech Counselor in the South FtWorth area that
knows RV construction? I live about 30 minutes south of the I20 & 35W
interchange right off of 35W (Grandview) and I'm looking for a TC.
Thanks,
Michael Sausen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Greasy flap motors, cont'd |
In a message dated 3/20/05 4:36:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:
<< Is there a "permanent" fix? >>
Dan: I don't know about "permanent," but I thoroughly cleaned the motor
parts with lacquer thinner, small brush and Q Tips. Then I used a small piece
of Scotch Brite to polish the commutator and cleaned it again with solvent in a
sprayer. I removed all but a small amount of grease from the worm screw in
the gear box and lightly greased the screw threads on the motor shaft. Now
there is no grease in the motor assembly and a small amount in the gear box.
With so little grease to begin with I am confident that mine should be good for
several hundred hours at least.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6 N16CX, 45+ hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Greasy flap motors, cont'd |
We suffered two failures on our Motion Systems motor, at around 100 and 200
hrs. First time I called MS, talked to an "engineer" who claimed they never
heard of such a thing... This would have been around 12/2003. Van's laughed and
said Motion Systems had been well aware of the problem. Second time I took
motor over to Van's and nice fella there exchanged same, so it has been done.
Don't want to get anyone in trouble so won't mention person's name. I just
think if you holler enough, you'll get an exchange, and it's only right.
YMMV...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville OR
From: "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Greasy flap motors, cont'd
I don't understand why everyone is content to put up with this failure.
This has been occurring for years. There would certainly be an AD
if this was a certified aircraft. If this was happening in your newly
purchased vehicle or any other consumer item we'd be having a fit. The
vendor should be recalling these and repairing/replacing the motors.
The first time someone tries a go around with full flaps that won't
retract
and stuffs it in the ground, I'll bet the problem will get fixed real
fast.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Positioning Main Gear Inflation Holes |
I'm positioning inflation holes in my RV8A main gear wheel pants so I won't have
to remove the wheel pants to inflate the tire. I noticed that the valve stems
for the Aero Classic TR-67 inner tubes supplied in my finish kit angle in towards
the axis of the wheel so that I can just barely get the valve stem cap
on without interference from the wheel hub. Do others have this same sort of
angle on the valve stem? I'm imagining I get the holes bored in my wheel pants
and then change to Michelin air stop tubes for example & find the valve stems
exit straight out instead of at an angle making my inflation hole useless.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
The latest from Brad at Emagair today: shipping delay for the latest batch of
units is estimated at 4 weeks from now. (A month ago it was "5 weeks"). Since
the units are slated to arrive at the same time as Sun-N-Fun, it "wouldn't be
fair" to the customers waiting for the units to delay shipping while they were
off in Florida exhibiting, so don't look for an Emag booth at S-N-F unless
they change their minds.
I heard a disturbing rumor this weekend, while lunching with some RV buds, that
this company was possibly in some financial trouble. I must admit, the phone
conversation today was vague enough to be considered non-reassuring, but I will
resist rumor-mongering while the events of the next few weeks speak for themselves.
Obviously, as a deposit-paying customer, I very much want Emagair to
succeed and to remain in business for a long time after my units are installed
and flying. I had really hoped to see them in person in Lakeland next month.
More that the safety of my $100 investment, I want the features of the product
itself in my plane... Here's hoping!
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing incidence |
Can you clarify whether or not he did the simple tried-and-true
aileron-tweak before he changed the wing incidence? It takes SUCH a small
aileron surface "bulge" to create a "heavy" wing, and such a small tweak to
fix it. Seems like overkill to me to go playing with wing incidence, unless
the wings are known to be out of alignment.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob J" <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing incidence
>
> Ooops, upon re-reading my message after hitting the send button I need
> to clarify that he bumped up the left wing to fix the right wing heavy
> condition and vise versa.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > Question:
> > > How much difference in wing incidence did you end up with, and what
> > > difference did it make to the roll trim ??
> >
> > No you're not being paranoid. A friend of mine who just flew his F1
> > for the first time in December initially drilled the rear spar for
> > 1/4" bolts so that some adjustment could be made after the first
> > flight. That turned out to be a good move. With the right wing being
> > heavy he bumped the rear spar up to reduce the incidence, bumping it
> > up nearly 1/16", then drilled it 5/16". Flew it and found that the
> > left wing felt twice as heavy as the right wing was initially. He then
> > bumped that wing up 1/32" and drilled it 5/16". The next flight it
> > flew hands off and straight. While flying formation I verified
> > sighting down the TE of both wings, all the control surfaces and
> > wingtips are in perfect alignment.
> >
> > I hope to get mine dialed in that well.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bob Japundza
> > RV-6 flying F1 under const.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Positioning Main Gear Inflation Holes |
The 1" holes in my '6 wheelpants have so far been big enough for me to use
for three different brands of tire (Aero Trainers, Condors and Michelin
Air). The valve stem is flexible enough that you can make it work even if
its not exactly centered.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
,
| Subject: | Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: |
Sorry for the late reply... I'm about 10 days behind on the list reading
right now, and this is not meant as a personal stab at anyone, just the
facts. I just wanted to set straight all the misconceptions about
experimental aircraft maintenance. It is shocking to me that people have
such misconceptions about experimental maintenance. First, if you don't
have the repairman certificate for the aircraft in question then you must
have an A&P sign off on the annual conditional inspection (it DOES NOT have
to be an IA). Second, ANYONE can work on an experimental aircraft, major
mods or alterations included. Just make sure you read the operating
limitations, most state that you have to "notify" the FAA of your
alterations before doing them. That means you notify them, not ask
permission. Read the below pasted letter from the EAA about this matter, it
should set the matter straight for any doubters out there. If you still
doubt me, e-mail me and I'll send you a copy of the entire letter and you
can take it to your local FSDO to confirm. This is one of the BEST things
about an experimental; it sidesteps the evil empire (FAA) on most matters.
With all this said, I would warn you not to do anything to an airplane that
you aren't expertly trained in doing, it just may kill you or someone else!
READ ON (not written by me):
** "FAR Part 43.1 (b) specifically excludes experimental aircraft so the FAA
is incorrect in stating you are held to any part or appendix of Part 43. It
states "This part does not apply to any aircraft for which an experimental
airworthiness certificate has been issued, unless a different kind of
airworthiness certificate had been previously issued for that aircraft". I
stress the word aircraft so that is not interpreted to include an engine.
What about major repairs and alterations? First you never have to fill
out a form 337 for an experimental aircraft. Repairs major or minor can be
done by anyone, remember Part 43.1 (b). However, alterations are
different. If you alter the aircraft with a different propeller or engine,
for example, then it is not the aircraft for which you received an
airworthiness certificate. This would also apply to changing pistons or
magnetos. It is a new and untested airplane. If you change propellers you
must notify the FAA (not by a 337) of your change.
Your aircraft's operating limitations should have a statement such as
the following in regard to major changes: "The FAA Cognizant Flight
Standards Office must be notified, and their response received in writing,
prior to flying this aircraft after incorporating a major change as defined
by FAR 21.93
If you do not have such a statement on your operating limitations then
you can claim you do not have to notify the FAA. However, EAA suggest you do
so even if you do not have this limitation.
The FAA inspector will make a determination as to whether he need to
come out and inspect the change and/or assign a new flight-test period. If
the inspector gives you an OK by letter (which is often done) you should
note the date, time, name and change in your aircraft logbook. If the
inspector wants to inspect the aircraft, it is the same as an FAA certified
A&P. So far to EAA's knowledge this has never happened on an amateur built
aircraft. Most operating limitations contain a statement that says and
annual "condition" inspection must be performed per the scope and detail of
FAR Part 43 Appendix D. It also states that an FAA certificated A&P or
repairman must perform this inspection. Note it says "A&P or Repairman". It
does not require an IA.
Let me clarify this. Anyone can work on an experimental aircraft and
sign off the work. However the annual "condition" inspection must be
completed by an A&P or a repairman.
Sincerely,
Experimental Aircraft Association
Earl Lawrence
Government Programs Specialist" ***
Hope that straightens out a bunch of misunderstood maintenance issues,
Travis
RV-6A @ VGT
RV-7A wiring (in the garage)
> gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>Mike:
>>
>>You are opening a can of worms :- ) The buyer of an experimental aircraft
>>can only do routine maintenance, as if it were a Piper or Cessna, as far
>>as I know. Only the manufacture (builder/repairman) can make major mods,
>>however I assume(?) an A&P or AI could do it and with the FAA's blessing.
>>Again, as in all these matters refer to the FISDO of choice for the
>>answer. There is no "type certificate" configuration for exp a/c, so many
>>changes slip thru the cracks and are not tracked by the FAA. Anyone who
>>has a second hand RV may find them self in a regulatory mess if they want
>>to make a major changes. The best (easiest) thing would get the builder to
>>sign the mod off if possible. However that is one of the fantastic reasons
>>for building your own plane.
>>
>>Cheers George
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF |
Charlie---Runway length is 3700' and is N-S
Go to http://www.airnav.com/airports/ and type in 97FL. Gives you all
info you'd ever need.
Ollie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF
>
> llie, Im entering loves landing in 296, what is runw num and lenth, and
> elev? charlie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Bar-BQ fly-in Mar. 26- Fl Wing VAF
>
>
> ATTENTION ALL---Mark your calendars now for one of the best fly-in Bar-BQ
> lunch in the Southeast. We will be serving lunch at noon and there will
> be
> coffee and donuts for the early birds.There is no rain date so come rain
> or
> shine, hopefully shine.
>
> Place----- Loves Landing Airpark, 97FL 130* 21.5 nm from Ocala VOR
> N 28*57.42 W 081*53.29
>
> What----- Smoked Bar-BQ pork (takes 2 days), Hamburgers,Hotdogs and all
> the
> other fixns.
>
> When---- Lunch at noon and coffee & donuts for early birds
>
> Price---- $6.00 donation which includes everything
>
> Note---This is a private airpark, land at your own risk.
>
> Ollie Washburn 6A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing incidence |
No, he was trying to avoid doing that. The incidence change was done
to preserve the light aileron forces by not squeezing the light
aileron, which in effect makes the ailerons heavier in feel.
Overkill? Maybe, unless your really picky about handling
characteristics.
I do agree its simple to squeeze the ailerons, but all that may do is
cover up the symptoms of a mis-rigged airplane.
What this excercise did prove is that a slight change in incidence can
have a big impact on a wing-heavy condition, and likely there's no way
for one to get that sort of accuracy with a level when rigging the
airplane. And its for that reason that many other airplanes have
mechanisms to adjust incidence.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
> Can you clarify whether or not he did the simple tried-and-true
> aileron-tweak before he changed the wing incidence? It takes SUCH a small
> aileron surface "bulge" to create a "heavy" wing, and such a small tweak to
> fix it. Seems like overkill to me to go playing with wing incidence, unless
> the wings are known to be out of alignment.
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob J" <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing incidence
>
> >
> > Ooops, upon re-reading my message after hitting the send button I need
> > to clarify that he bumped up the left wing to fix the right wing heavy
> > condition and vise versa.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Bob Japundza
> > RV-6 flying F1 under const.
> >
> > > wrote:
>
> > > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > Question:
> > > > How much difference in wing incidence did you end up with, and what
> > > > difference did it make to the roll trim ??
> > >
> > > No you're not being paranoid. A friend of mine who just flew his F1
> > > for the first time in December initially drilled the rear spar for
> > > 1/4" bolts so that some adjustment could be made after the first
> > > flight. That turned out to be a good move. With the right wing being
> > > heavy he bumped the rear spar up to reduce the incidence, bumping it
> > > up nearly 1/16", then drilled it 5/16". Flew it and found that the
> > > left wing felt twice as heavy as the right wing was initially. He then
> > > bumped that wing up 1/32" and drilled it 5/16". The next flight it
> > > flew hands off and straight. While flying formation I verified
> > > sighting down the TE of both wings, all the control surfaces and
> > > wingtips are in perfect alignment.
> > >
> > > I hope to get mine dialed in that well.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Bob Japundza
> > > RV-6 flying F1 under const.
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: |
Hi Travis,
Excellent summary of the requirements on maintenance and inspection for an
experimental. However, one thing is not clear - I had my operation
limitation amended back about 3 years ago to the effect of giving me the
authority to make "Major Modifications" and I simply have to fly a minimum
of 5 test hours, record new stall, climb speeds and weight. I entered that
data in the log book and a statement to the effect that the aircraft is
found safe to fly. There is no indication anywhere that I need to notify
the FAA of a "Major Modification" is that not the same as your
"Alteration"??. Yes I do have the repairman's certificate for my aircraft.
Appreciate you viewpoint to the question
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was:
>
> Sorry for the late reply... I'm about 10 days behind on the list reading
> right now, and this is not meant as a personal stab at anyone, just the
> facts. I just wanted to set straight all the misconceptions about
> experimental aircraft maintenance. It is shocking to me that people have
> such misconceptions about experimental maintenance. First, if you don't
> have the repairman certificate for the aircraft in question then you must
> have an A&P sign off on the annual conditional inspection (it DOES NOT
have
> to be an IA). Second, ANYONE can work on an experimental aircraft, major
> mods or alterations included. Just make sure you read the operating
> limitations, most state that you have to "notify" the FAA of your
> alterations before doing them. That means you notify them, not ask
> permission. Read the below pasted letter from the EAA about this matter,
it
> should set the matter straight for any doubters out there. If you still
> doubt me, e-mail me and I'll send you a copy of the entire letter and you
> can take it to your local FSDO to confirm. This is one of the BEST things
> about an experimental; it sidesteps the evil empire (FAA) on most matters.
> With all this said, I would warn you not to do anything to an airplane
that
> you aren't expertly trained in doing, it just may kill you or someone
else!
> READ ON (not written by me):
>
> ** "FAR Part 43.1 (b) specifically excludes experimental aircraft so the
FAA
> is incorrect in stating you are held to any part or appendix of Part 43.
It
> states "This part does not apply to any aircraft for which an experimental
> airworthiness certificate has been issued, unless a different kind of
> airworthiness certificate had been previously issued for that aircraft". I
> stress the word aircraft so that is not interpreted to include an engine.
> What about major repairs and alterations? First you never have to
fill
> out a form 337 for an experimental aircraft. Repairs major or minor can be
> done by anyone, remember Part 43.1 (b). However, alterations are
> different. If you alter the aircraft with a different propeller or engine,
> for example, then it is not the aircraft for which you received an
> airworthiness certificate. This would also apply to changing pistons or
> magnetos. It is a new and untested airplane. If you change propellers you
> must notify the FAA (not by a 337) of your change.
> Your aircraft's operating limitations should have a statement such as
> the following in regard to major changes: "The FAA Cognizant Flight
> Standards Office must be notified, and their response received in writing,
> prior to flying this aircraft after incorporating a major change as
defined
> by FAR 21.93
> If you do not have such a statement on your operating limitations
then
> you can claim you do not have to notify the FAA. However, EAA suggest you
do
> so even if you do not have this limitation.
> The FAA inspector will make a determination as to whether he need to
> come out and inspect the change and/or assign a new flight-test period. If
> the inspector gives you an OK by letter (which is often done) you should
> note the date, time, name and change in your aircraft logbook. If the
> inspector wants to inspect the aircraft, it is the same as an FAA
certified
> A&P. So far to EAA's knowledge this has never happened on an amateur built
> aircraft. Most operating limitations contain a statement that says and
> annual "condition" inspection must be performed per the scope and detail
of
> FAR Part 43 Appendix D. It also states that an FAA certificated A&P or
> repairman must perform this inspection. Note it says "A&P or Repairman".
It
> does not require an IA.
> Let me clarify this. Anyone can work on an experimental aircraft and
> sign off the work. However the annual "condition" inspection must be
> completed by an A&P or a repairman.
>
> Sincerely,
> Experimental Aircraft Association
> Earl Lawrence
> Government Programs Specialist" ***
>
>
> Hope that straightens out a bunch of misunderstood maintenance issues,
>
> Travis
> RV-6A @ VGT
> RV-7A wiring (in the garage)
>
>
> > gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>Mike:
> >>
> >>You are opening a can of worms :- ) The buyer of an experimental
aircraft
> >>can only do routine maintenance, as if it were a Piper or Cessna, as far
> >>as I know. Only the manufacture (builder/repairman) can make major mods,
> >>however I assume(?) an A&P or AI could do it and with the FAA's
blessing.
> >>Again, as in all these matters refer to the FISDO of choice for the
> >>answer. There is no "type certificate" configuration for exp a/c, so
many
> >>changes slip thru the cracks and are not tracked by the FAA. Anyone who
> >>has a second hand RV may find them self in a regulatory mess if they
want
> >>to make a major changes. The best (easiest) thing would get the builder
to
>
> >>sign the mod off if possible. However that is one of the fantastic
reasons
>
> >>for building your own plane.
> >>
> >>Cheers George
>
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sterling" <sterling(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | Orndorf videos for sale, $1.00 |
I just listed on Ebay, at a starting price of $1.00 the Orndorff 2-part empennage
videos. If you are interested in a VERY GOOD deal, look up item number 4537703612,
or type in "Orndorf Videos" in a search on Ebay.
Thanks,
Sterling Brooks
Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch
5TA6, San Antonio Sectional
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: |
Ed Anderson wrote:
>
>Hi Travis,
>
>Excellent summary of the requirements on maintenance and inspection for an
>experimental. However, one thing is not clear - I had my operation
>limitation amended back about 3 years ago to the effect of giving me the
>authority to make "Major Modifications" and I simply have to fly a minimum
>of 5 test hours, record new stall, climb speeds and weight. I entered that
>data in the log book and a statement to the effect that the aircraft is
>found safe to fly. There is no indication anywhere that I need to notify
>the FAA of a "Major Modification" is that not the same as your
>"Alteration"??. Yes I do have the repairman's certificate for my aircraft.
>
>Appreciate you viewpoint to the question
>
>Ed Anderson
>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>Matthews, NC
>eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
snipped
Hi Ed,
I've done it twice; once pre 911 & once after (different RV-4's). The
before was like yours; the after says you have to notify them & get
confirmation of test area. Everything changed after 911 & ya gotta
protect the public from law abiding citizens now, ya know...
I would only trust something in writing from your FSDO but if I had
your version I'd use it.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
The folks at E-mag are very devoted to producing
a quality product. They want to get the few bugs out
of their product so there won't be problems in the field
for the customers. I have never delt with more sincere and
honest people.The wait for your ordered e-mags will be
rewarded with a reliable product.
I was one of the first customers and don't regret my decision
to purchase their products. They are nice compact units and
operation with them is supurb.
Stewart, Rv4 in colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sterling" <sterling(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | Another $1.00 Orndorf Video on Ebay |
Sorry to flood the list, but I just added the Orndorf SHEET METAL TOOLS video on
Ebay and started the auction at $1.00. You can view this and the Mosler Aircraft
Engine Video that I produced for Mosler in 1990 by typing in these item numbers
in the respective order.
Orndorf Sheet Metal Tools is 4537729428
Ordorf Pre-punched empennage video is 4537703612
Mosler Motors (VW based engine) is 4537719007
Thanks,
Sterling Brooks
Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch
5TA6, San Antonio Sectional
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was:
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
>
> >
> >Hi Travis,
> >
> >Excellent summary of the requirements on maintenance and inspection for
an
> >experimental. However, one thing is not clear - I had my operation
> >limitation amended back about 3 years ago to the effect of giving me the
> >authority to make "Major Modifications" and I simply have to fly a
minimum
> >of 5 test hours, record new stall, climb speeds and weight. I entered
that
> >data in the log book and a statement to the effect that the aircraft is
> >found safe to fly. There is no indication anywhere that I need to notify
> >the FAA of a "Major Modification" is that not the same as your
> >"Alteration"??. Yes I do have the repairman's certificate for my
aircraft.
> >
> >Appreciate you viewpoint to the question
> >
> >Ed Anderson
> >RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> >Matthews, NC
> >eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
> >
>
> snipped
> Hi Ed,
> I've done it twice; once pre 911 & once after (different RV-4's). The
> before was like yours; the after says you have to notify them & get
> confirmation of test area. Everything changed after 911 & ya gotta
> protect the public from law abiding citizens now, ya know...
>
> I would only trust something in writing from your FSDO but if I had
> your version I'd use it.
>
> Charlie
>
Thanks Charlie,
I think I'll stay in compliance with the Operating limitations I currently
have {:>). When having it done, I offered up a test area to the east of my
airpatch which is mainly open farm land and the FSDO simply stated it wasn't
necessary as "I knew" no flights of experimentals were permitted over
heavily populate areas? Hoping my prop will be back by the end of this
week.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AILERON TRIM SPRINGS |
List:
I am installing my aileron trim in my RV-6A. Is there something other then
safety wire to attach the springs to the adjusting lever? It seem like it will
be hard to get both side adjusted.
Thanks
Jerry Davis
Glen Carbon, ILL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AILERON TRIM SPRINGS |
I used safety wire and it seems to work well. But, perhaps I just got
lucky.
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthew, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jsd41(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: AILERON TRIM SPRINGS
>
> List:
> I am installing my aileron trim in my RV-6A. Is there something other
then
> safety wire to attach the springs to the adjusting lever? It seem like it
will
> be hard to get both side adjusted.
> Thanks
> Jerry Davis
> Glen Carbon, ILL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AILERON TRIM SPRINGS |
Jerry,
You could just skip that step IMHO.
I used .041 safety wire. But, I have found that I never use the trim lever
anyway. It is not very easy to get to because my seats have only about 2
inches (if that much) room between them. Also, I have had trouble keeping it
adjusted tight enough to hold. I am going to remove the springs and see if I
miss having the trim. I use the Nav-Aid autopilot a lot, so it is not
necessary to have the airplane trimmed perfectly. When I am flying the airplane,
I
never notice it being out of trim. It is so light on the controls that
almost no stick force will keep it level. I may get flamed, but the plane doesn't
fly hands off anyway -- almost but not hands off.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In the paint shop for a long time)
--> RV-List message posted by: Jsd41(at)aol.com
List:
I am installing my aileron trim in my RV-6A. Is there something other then
safety wire to attach the springs to the adjusting lever? It seem like it
will
be hard to get both side adjusted.
Thanks
Jerry Davis
Glen Carbon, ILL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: AILERON TRIM SPRINGS |
When the time came to install my aileron springs, it just happened that
installing the springs directly between the bottom of the trim handle and
the tabs at the base of the sticks came out "just right". No need for safety
wire or whatever. I tried some combinations of wire but all attempts ended
up with the springs too slack.
So maybe I just got lucky too.
Have a look at
http://www.vansairforce.org/projects/okej/onephoto.cgi?Picture_0615.jpg
for my installation.
Yes, the springs may look over-extended but the control feel when flying is
just fine.
Jim Oke
RV-6A, C-GKGZ
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AILERON TRIM SPRINGS
>
> I used safety wire and it seems to work well. But, perhaps I just got
> lucky.
>
> Ed Anderson
> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthew, NC
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Jsd41(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: AILERON TRIM SPRINGS
>
>
>>
>> List:
>> I am installing my aileron trim in my RV-6A. Is there something other
> then
>> safety wire to attach the springs to the adjusting lever? It seem like it
> will
>> be hard to get both side adjusted.
>> Thanks
>> Jerry Davis
>> Glen Carbon, ILL
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | AILERON TRIM SPRINGS |
Jerry,
I used R/C threaded links and ball links. The ball links get screwed into
the actuator arm (one on each side). Then connect the balls to the springs
with the quick links. Works really well and the threaded links are
adjustable. Available at most hobby shops that deal in R/C stuff. Here is
a picture of the same thing on my flap position actuator which will give you
the idea.
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=148112&ck
Hope this helps.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
List:
I am installing my aileron trim in my RV-6A. Is there something other then
safety wire to attach the springs to the adjusting lever? It seem like it
will
be hard to get both side adjusted.
Thanks
Jerry Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
What is the best tool to carry to chop your way out of an RV on its back?
After reading how a pilot and passenger flipped their RV on it's back and needed
to hack their way-out by breaking the canopy enough with a fire extinguisher,
I started looking for some suitable tools. Here are few suggestions I found,
but looking for any comments?
"Aircrew Survival Egress Knife" (ASEK) Survival System
http://www.rangerjoes.com/product_info.php?products_id=1987
"Bush Pilot Hatchet" (shop around)
http://www.cozycamping.net/camping-gear-11427.html?src=froogle-cozycamping
OR
http://www.policegearusa.com/showitem.cfm/23625/13940.htm
Multi-functional tool - Ax, a hatchet, a pry bar and hammer
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/ctd/product.asp?sku=MLT-5105
"Pilot survival knife" with hammer handle
http://west.loadup.com/military/surplus/755.html
SafeAirs canopy - "Bubble Buster" (bottom of page center)
http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm
Any suggestions on the best way to break the canopy for emergency egress?
Cheers George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop replacement, question for Das Fed, was: |
There was a recent article in one of the aviation magazines
(flying, kitplanes, aopa pilot - can't recall which) which
discussed the case of a guy not being covered in an accident
because he made "major" modifications without notifying the
FAA.
He apparently did a lot of damage on the ground during the
accident, and even though the crash had nothing to do with
the supposedly "major" modifications, the insurance company
was able to weasel out of coverage.
Seemed like a very nasty situation.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AILERON TRIM SPRINGS |
Do yourself a favor and install the aileron trim. While Dan is correct in
that it's extremely light on the controls, there are times when you want to
take your hands off -- if there's an imbalance of fuel, for example, the
plane will bank. You can fly "with your knees," but why not always keep the
airplane in trim if you have the option?
Even though Dan also mentioned that an autopilot will take care of it, if
you watch the stick when running a Trutrak autopilot, as soon as there's a
noticeable fuel imbalance, you can see the stick "ticking" away from the
heavy wing as it applies small corrective inputs. Anybody who has a Trutrak
knows what I mean by "ticking." When I see that symptom I know it's time to
switch tanks and/or throw in some trim to keep the autopilot happy-happy.
Back to the method...the safety wire does work. It may take a couple of
iterations to get the length just right -- stick naturally centered with no
force on it and trim centered -- and also to get the spring force just
right -- just to the point of no sagging or slack when the stick is actuated
fully to each side.
When I was building my -7 I thought the spring system was totally cheesy.
But now having flown a fair amount, the system has proven itself to be
useful, simple, lightweight, and reliable. You can always remove it later
if you find you don't use it or want it. But I'll bet you'll find it
useful.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (416 hours, 1st annual in process)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AILERON TRIM SPRINGS
>
> Jerry,
>
> You could just skip that step IMHO.
>
> I used .041 safety wire. But, I have found that I never use the trim
lever
> anyway. It is not very easy to get to because my seats have only about 2
> inches (if that much) room between them. Also, I have had trouble
keeping it
> adjusted tight enough to hold. I am going to remove the springs and see
if I
> miss having the trim. I use the Nav-Aid autopilot a lot, so it is not
> necessary to have the airplane trimmed perfectly. When I am flying the
airplane, I
> never notice it being out of trim. It is so light on the controls that
> almost no stick force will keep it level. I may get flamed, but the
plane doesn't
> fly hands off anyway -- almost but not hands off.
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A (In the paint shop for a long time)
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jsd41(at)aol.com
>
> List:
> I am installing my aileron trim in my RV-6A. Is there something other
then
> safety wire to attach the springs to the adjusting lever? It seem like it
> will
> be hard to get both side adjusted.
> Thanks
> Jerry Davis
> Glen Carbon, ILL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net> |
I'm in the assembly part of the rear spar and wondered about the timing of attaching
the aileron and flap brackets to it.
I can't see any reason I shouldn't attach the inboard aileron bracket assembly
(W913) now. Can any 9 builders confirm that?
I see that the outboard bracket (W914) has to wait till the outboard wing rib is
on but once that's done I'd like to attach that early on too.
Perhaps a larger question is: Can I perform the tasks under "Finishing Rear Spar
Details" (p 7-10 in my book) during or just after the "Assembling the Wing
Skeleton" (p 7-3) operations instead of after riveting the top skin. The point
would be to have as much access as possible.
Finally, my instructions and drawings don't mention anything about whether to dimple
or countersink the three 1/8 rivet holes where the W914 goes. Based on
the thickness, .040, of the material I'd say they have to be dimpled but I don't
want to risk deforming spar and doubler. So, can any of you give me some guidance
here, too?
Thanks very much in advance.
Bill
Albion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
I've never had to get out of a crashed aircraft - hope I never have to. My personal
feelings are that if I ever end upside down, I want out of the aircraft
NOW - burning or not. And I have a responsibility to get my passenger out NOW
also. Either way, your work in cut out for you (no pun intended). I feel you
need to think realistically about what kind of shape you and your cockpit may
be in when you crash. One of my considerations was that being upside down,
strapped in the seat, with possible airframe distortion, you may not have the
space or physical ability to swing one of the hatchet or hammer type tools effectively
enough to get out. I wanted something that I could be reasonably sure
I could punch through the plexiglass canopy or the aluminum skin with little
room and/or decreased strength.
That's why I have the A.S.E.K. knife made in Germany by a company called Eickhorn-Solingen
in my 8A. I bought this knife from an internet site some time ago
and I'm not sure which one and I don't remember the exact price. At the time,
I recall reading that this particular knife was supposedly designed by a U.S.
Army officer for his helicopter crews to use in combat. It has a Bowie or Tanto
style blade point (the tanto style point is VERY effective at punching through
almost anything), has a seat belt cutter slot in the blade, and has double
row of metal cutting teeth on the spine of the blade. I'm reasonably sure
this blade would not take much of a swing or thrust to get through a canopy or
skin. The only possible down side consideration with this blade is that the
seat belt cutter slot could get caught on the plexiglass as you try to retract
it after punching through. The saw cutting teeth should negate this as the teeth
could easily enlarge the slot, making retraction
easy.
There are several knives now calling themselves "ASEK". When I found the German model two years ago, there were ony one or two. The Eickorn-Solingen model is not cheap, but I like the design and it's made of quality materials. One site that has this knife is http://www.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/ontario/asek.html. Shop around for the best price as it does vary widely from site to site.
Some guys are anal about having a good quality fire extiguisher, the best CO detector,
a parachute or whatever. I wanted a good egress tool. With a nose gear
plane, in almost any kind of crash, chances are real good I'd end upside down.
Just my $0.02.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
The Gerber Backpack mini axe is also an excellent and light weight tool for
RV extraction.
Wayne Petrus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
> What is the best tool to carry to chop your way out of an RV on its
> back?
>
> After reading how a pilot and passenger flipped their RV on it's back
> and needed to hack their way-out by breaking the canopy enough with a
> fire extinguisher, I started looking for some suitable tools. Here
> are few suggestions I found, but looking for any comments?
As has been mentioned many times on this forum, the side-by-side RVs are
already carrying a good canopy bustin' tool. Make sure you provide for
removal of the passenger control stick; it is long enough to get both
hands on it and you should be able to ram it though the canopy. Some
builders have enhanced the ram effect by loading the bottom of the stick
with a sharpened steel slug.
The stick in my RV-6 just slips into place with no pins or such holding
it. When not in use it is clipped to the seat pan just outboard of the
passenger seat.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
> ... One site that has this knife is
> http://www.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/ontario/asek.html. Shop
> around for the best price as it does vary widely from site to site.
That's for sure! Knifecenter sells the knife for 169 USD, and
Cutlerytogo sells it for 295 USD:
http://www.cutlerytogo.com/airsuregknif.html
Looks like a nice knife.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AILERON TRIM SPRINGS |
In a message dated 3/22/05 12:07:48 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dan(at)rvproject.com writes:
<< When I was building my -7 I thought the spring system was totally cheesy.
But now having flown a fair amount, the system has proven itself to be
useful, simple, lightweight, and reliable. >>
I only have 50 hours on my -6 but I am very glad that I installed the spring
aileron trim system, cheesy safety wire and all. I find that I am retrimming
for fuel burn fairly often and can get my -6 to fly pretty much hands off if I
keep it trimmed. Just my $0.02.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6 N16CX, 45+ hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Sam,
That is what I intended to do.
I had just flown off my 40 hrs and took a good friend up. Tim has 4000
hrs and is experienced in many planes. At the time he owned a Hiperbipe.
He asked what I thought the actual lowest stall speed was, indicated. I
told him I wasn't exactly sure, but I was pretty sure it was 52. I had
already let Tim fly from the right seat, had he was pretty comfortable
with the plane. It was decided that he would stall the plane and I would
watch carefully to see when the actual drop occurred. When letting
someone else fly my plane I always keep my hand on the stick and feet on
the pedals just in case.
As Tim slowed the plane down slowly I kept a viligant eye on the ASI.
Right at 50 the plane broke into a stall, the nose dropped, the right
wing dropped and I expected Tim to recover. I looked over at Tim as I
was recovering the plane. His eyes were about to pop out of his head as
he showed me the stick that had come out of the socket on the passengers
side.
We did about a 1 turn spin, it corrected easily and everything was a
none event.
I should have told Tim that the stick was not pinned in, but this had
never happened before during regular flight.
That evening I rigged up a spring-pin that makes removing the stick
simple, but prevents accidental removal.
We always have a good laugh when we get to telling flying stories.
John L. Danielson
307-266-2524
johnd(at)wlcwyo.com
WLC, Inc.
As has been mentioned many times on this forum, the side-by-side RVs are
already carrying a good canopy bustin' tool. Make sure you provide for
removal of the passenger control stick; it is long enough to get both
hands on it and you should be able to ram it though the canopy. Some
builders have enhanced the ram effect by loading the bottom of the stick
with a sharpened steel slug.
The stick in my RV-6 just slips into place with no pins or such holding
it. When not in use it is clipped to the seat pan just outboard of the
passenger seat.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
That's a great story, John! :-)
I bet Tim's eyes were about as big as an old-fashioned airspeed
indicator!!!!
I have wondered about the possibility of somebody pulling the stick out
of the socket but have never had even the slightest problem in this
regard. But a smart little drop at the stall break along with "pulling"
the airplane back to flying attitude will apparently do it! (sorry for
the snickering.....just the thought of Tim's expression is hilarious...)
Oh well, another data point. :-)
Sam Buchanan
===================================
John Danielson wrote:
>
> Sam,
> That is what I intended to do.
> I had just flown off my 40 hrs and took a good friend up. Tim has 4000
> hrs and is experienced in many planes. At the time he owned a Hiperbipe.
> He asked what I thought the actual lowest stall speed was, indicated. I
> told him I wasn't exactly sure, but I was pretty sure it was 52. I had
> already let Tim fly from the right seat, had he was pretty comfortable
> with the plane. It was decided that he would stall the plane and I would
> watch carefully to see when the actual drop occurred. When letting
> someone else fly my plane I always keep my hand on the stick and feet on
> the pedals just in case.
> As Tim slowed the plane down slowly I kept a viligant eye on the ASI.
> Right at 50 the plane broke into a stall, the nose dropped, the right
> wing dropped and I expected Tim to recover. I looked over at Tim as I
> was recovering the plane. His eyes were about to pop out of his head as
> he showed me the stick that had come out of the socket on the passengers
> side.
> We did about a 1 turn spin, it corrected easily and everything was a
> none event.
> I should have told Tim that the stick was not pinned in, but this had
> never happened before during regular flight.
> That evening I rigged up a spring-pin that makes removing the stick
> simple, but prevents accidental removal.
> We always have a good laugh when we get to telling flying stories.
>
> John L. Danielson
> 307-266-2524
> johnd(at)wlcwyo.com
> WLC, Inc.
>
>
> As has been mentioned many times on this forum, the side-by-side RVs are
>
> already carrying a good canopy bustin' tool. Make sure you provide for
> removal of the passenger control stick; it is long enough to get both
> hands on it and you should be able to ram it though the canopy. Some
> builders have enhanced the ram effect by loading the bottom of the stick
>
> with a sharpened steel slug.
>
> The stick in my RV-6 just slips into place with no pins or such holding
> it. When not in use it is clipped to the seat pan just outboard of the
> passenger seat.
>
> Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Callender" <tcallender(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 rear spar |
> I can't see any reason I shouldn't attach the inboard aileron bracket assembly
(W913) now. Can any 9 builders confirm that?
You are correct, I used my "C-Frame" and back-revited, worked very well :-)
>
> I see that the outboard bracket (W914) has to wait till the outboard wing rib
is on but once that's done I'd like to attach that early on too. correct! After
the rib is in no reason to wait until skin is on.
> Perhaps a larger question is: Can I perform the tasks under "Finishing Rear
Spar Details" (p 7-10 in my book) during or just after the "Assembling the Wing
Skeleton" (p 7-3) operations instead of after riveting the top skin. The point
would be to have as much access as possible.
I attached the inbd & outbd flap bkts on the respective ribs before I assembled
the skeleton, much easier...Vans suggest the center bkt after skeleton assembly
for proper flap hinge alignment.
>
> Finally, my instructions and drawings don't mention anything about whether to
dimple or countersink the three 1/8 rivet holes where the W914 goes. Based on
the thickness, .040, of the material I'd say they have to be dimpled but I don't
want to risk deforming spar and doubler. So, can any of you give me some
guidance here, too?
Actually, I think c'sink or dimple would be fine, I elected to dimple the spar
and rib flg. If you c'sink the spar you wouldn't have to c'sink or dimple the
rib flg. The doubler doesn't c'sink or dimple. See dwg 11 "Rivet in assembly with
w-912-r. Flush head on rear side of W-907E Underneath"
Hope this helps
Tom C
RV9 (793JT reserved)
Lewisville NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Hi George-
See also Harbor Freight item 46241-2NYB, motorist's emergency escape
hammer. It seems to have a double ended pointed hammer, with a hook knife
in the handle for slicing webbing. Regularly $5.99, on sale for $2.99.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
I purchased several of these (some for friends) and they look to the job
just fine. It resides in the cockpit by my left knee mounted to one of the
bulkheads. Should be able to reach it upside down - hope I don't have to
find out. Can't beat the price and yes, it does have a folded blade on one
end for cutting through seat belts.
Ed Anderson
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear
>
> Hi George-
>
> See also Harbor Freight item 46241-2NYB, motorist's emergency escape
> hammer. It seems to have a double ended pointed hammer, with a hook knife
> in the handle for slicing webbing. Regularly $5.99, on sale for $2.99.
>
>
> Glen Matejcek
> aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AILERON TRIM SPRINGS |
Just follow the directions and it should turn out just fine. Mine did.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: AILERON TRIM SPRINGS
>
> Jerry,
>
> I used R/C threaded links and ball links. The ball links get screwed into
> the actuator arm (one on each side). Then connect the balls to the
> springs
> with the quick links. Works really well and the threaded links are
> adjustable. Available at most hobby shops that deal in R/C stuff. Here
> is
> a picture of the same thing on my flap position actuator which will give
> you
> the idea.
>
> http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=148112&ck
> Hope this helps.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-6
> RV-7
>
>
> List:
> I am installing my aileron trim in my RV-6A. Is there something other then
> safety wire to attach the springs to the adjusting lever? It seem like it
> will
> be hard to get both side adjusted.
> Thanks
> Jerry Davis
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | GNC300, GI 106 , SL30 |
I thought it was possible to switch inputs to a CDI from a GPS or VOR receiver.
Below is communication with Stark Avionics saying it's not possible with the
SL30. Anyone with insight if this is correct?
Dave Ford
RV6
John,
I'll be integrating a GNC300XL and GI-106 with the SL-30.
Dave
(snip)
That can't be done. The Sl-30 can not share a CDI with the Gnc-300xl. The
OBS legs of the Sl-30 can't go through a relay of any type. John
(snip)
John,
From my understanding, others have done just that switching the inputs to
the OBS via dpdt switch. Is that what you are referring to?
Dave
(snip)
You can switch everything except the OBS. The Sl-30 looses its calibration
each time you switch and then it requires you to go through the whole
calibration procedure again.
John Stark
Stark Avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
I have a friend that is considering the possibility of getting some land and
putting in his own private airstrip. Can anyone that has done this give me
some advice on what has to be done with the FAA, how hard it is, and who to
contact about it. Aside from city zoning are there other considerations
that he should be aware of? Thanks.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Eldridge" <eldridge(at)legis.state.ga.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Re: RV accident
I am one of the few people that has had an RV accident where a tool was
necessary in order to exit an RV6A that was upside down. On January 1,
2003, I had an engine failure passing the outer marker at Peachtree City
Airport. The details are on file at the NTSB webpage. I do not agree
with the findings, but that is not the purpose of this reply.
My survival tool was a pocket knife with a locking blade that I have
carried with me for many years. I had always assumed I could kick the
canopy plexi-glass out if an emergency arose. I found that I was unable
to do this and had to depend upon my knife with the locking blade, which
I used to break a small hole that I could get my fingers in, in order to
break a hole large enough for me to crawl out.
The reason that I think a stout knife is better than a survival tool
that would have to be stored some place in the airplane is because in my
accident, although I was wearing a shoulder harness and seat belts, I
was thrown into the baggage compartment upside down and with no way to
reach anything in the cockpit. Because of having the knife in my
pocket, I was able to extricate myself in just a few moments.
By the way, I was uninjured and the only blood in the airplane was
where I cut my hands breaking the plexi-glass after I had cut a hole
with my knife. My RV was a total loss and uninsured, so I will have to
fly my other airplane until such time as I can recover from the
financial loss and buy another RV.
Accidents do happen and we need to be prepared. The RV is a very sound
and safe design and if I can answer any questions or help in any way, I
am available.
Frank Eldridge
P.S. I never once thought about suing the builder, Vans, Lycoming, or
anybody else.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <rer51(at)lincsat.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
I got this item from my Firefighter Son. Light and effective. 5 in 1 tool with holder. $12.95 at this site. I have no interest in this company, just safety. http://www.thecommandcenterwinchester.com/emi_extricator_5_in_1_lifesaver_.htm Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: private airport |
Brian,
I don't believe anything that "has to be done with the FAA" if it's
truly "private"
States vary in their rules, but again if it's "private" probably no big deal.
There are federal and probably state "guidelines" that should be considered.
Zoning and local rules may be a bigger deal, depending on where you
live and your current (and future) neighbors!
It's one of those things where it's probably easier to get forgiveness
than permission! Again depending on the environs and the neighbors.
If it's "public use" ignore all of the above!
I think the AOPA has some good information on this subject.
Good Luck,
Bob
>
> I have a friend that is considering the possibility of getting some land and
> putting in his own private airstrip. Can anyone that has done this give me
> some advice on what has to be done with the FAA, how hard it is, and who to
> contact about it. Aside from city zoning are there other considerations
> that he should be aware of? Thanks.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: private airport |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
I am in the process of trying to develop a Residential Airpark here in Central
California. If your airstrip is a private use airstrip with a
single residence on the property the process is not that hard. I am not sure what
state you are in but if it is California you would need to
start with Cal-Trans Aeronautics division who is in charge of issuing permits for
airports. They have a list of guidelines as well as a
checklist of what needs to be aquired from your local government and the FAA. The
local government is going to be concerned with
Land Use, environmental impact, zoning, etc. The FAA is concerned with airspace
conflicts. I was suprised how small of a role the FAA
actually plays in the whole process.
Also, you may want to contact the AOPA. They have a couple really good publications
they put together to support people like us who
want to develop airparks/airports. They even have sample land use business plans
you can use as templates and information on getting
grants for supplemental funding.
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 08:36:56 -0500
Subject: RV-List: private airport
>
> I have a friend that is considering the possibility of getting some
> land and
> putting in his own private airstrip. Can anyone that has done this
> give me
> some advice on what has to be done with the FAA, how hard it is, and
> who to
> contact about it. Aside from city zoning are there other
> considerations
> that he should be aware of? Thanks.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Brian, I did this in Ohio with no problems at all. The Feds and the State
have to be informed but have no say so over the matter. It's really just a
local zoning issue, at least that is how it was for me and several others I
know of. Check out www.livingwithyourplane.com If I can help just let me
know.
John Furey
john(at)fureychrysler.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sterling" <sterling(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: private airport |
Brain:
Visit this website for my airstrip, Knot-2-Shabby
http://www.airnav.com/airport/5TA6#notes, and then e-mail me off list at
sterling(at)pgrb.com and I'll give you some pointers later this date. I wrote
an article on this a few years ago.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: RV-List: private airport
>
> I have a friend that is considering the possibility of getting some land
and
> putting in his own private airstrip. Can anyone that has done this give
me
> some advice on what has to be done with the FAA, how hard it is, and who
to
> contact about it. Aside from city zoning are there other considerations
> that he should be aware of? Thanks.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Gold" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
In my 6A, I pulled out the right side stick and filed sharp teeth into its
bottom end. The idea was that this would be a good size tool that's always
in the airplane, easily reachable, that didn't take up any extra space and
didn't add any weight.
The unexpected problem was (and still is) finding a quick disconnect
fastener to replace the AN-3 bolt that holds the stick in its socket. Years
ago in the ultralight community we had quick disconnect fasteners which we
called pip-pins which provided a good size handle and a button which
released a small ball inside the pin, thus allowing it to be quickly pulled
from its socket. Ultralighters used these for structural spar bolts
(yikes!!!). I didn't like that and always replaced them with standard AN
bolts, but in a non-structural application like this, I thought it would be
the perfect answer. Problem is, when I went to look for these in the Spruce
catalog and a few others, I found they were only available in very limited
sizes, none of which were well suited to this application.
I still think this is the perfect solutions, if only we can find the proper
connecter. Any ideas?
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy" <rer51(at)lincsat.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear
>
> I got this item from my Firefighter Son. Light and effective. 5 in 1
> tool with holder. $12.95 at this site. I have no interest in this
> company, just safety.
> http://www.thecommandcenterwinchester.com/emi_extricator_5_in_1_lifesaver_.htm
> Randy
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ivan McLaws" <toejam(at)cybertrails.com> |
I have an IO-360 on an RV-6A with a Sterba Prop. It can be converted to C/S.
I have a manifold pressure gauge which is operational. At my home airport 5,000
ft I get a static RPM of 2450 with the manifold pressure rising to 25-25.5.
At another airport 3,500 the difference is obviously greater at takeoff and climb.
Once I have arrested the climb and am out of the pattern I am no longer loading
the engine.
My question is am I doing major damage with the current situation or are most of
the people out there with fixed props doing the same thing to their engines
and not knowing it because they don't have a manifold pressure gauge?
Any thoughts?
Ivan McLaws
N532JV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Andy Gold wrote:
>
>In my 6A, I pulled out the right side stick and filed sharp teeth into its
>bottom end. The idea was that this would be a good size tool that's always
>in the airplane, easily reachable, that didn't take up any extra space and
>didn't add any weight.
>
>The unexpected problem was (and still is) finding a quick disconnect
>fastener to replace the AN-3 bolt that holds the stick in its socket.
>
>Problem is, when I went to look for these in the Spruce
>catalog and a few others, I found they were only available in very limited
>sizes, none of which were well suited to this application.
>
>I still think this is the perfect solutions, if only we can find the proper
>connecter. Any ideas?
>
>Andy
>
>
>
>
I have thought this was the way to go also, what have others done?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Hi Andy,
I agree with your idea, and I'm going to be using these
push pins for my canopy and the rear stick in my RV8.
Do a search at McMaster.com for "Push-Button Quick-Release Pins",
and I think you will be happy.
Mickey
Andy Gold wrote:
>
> In my 6A, I pulled out the right side stick and filed sharp teeth into its
> bottom end. The idea was that this would be a good size tool that's always
> in the airplane, easily reachable, that didn't take up any extra space and
> didn't add any weight.
>
> The unexpected problem was (and still is) finding a quick disconnect
> fastener to replace the AN-3 bolt that holds the stick in its socket. Years
> ago in the ultralight community we had quick disconnect fasteners which we
> called pip-pins which provided a good size handle and a button which
> released a small ball inside the pin, thus allowing it to be quickly pulled
> from its socket. Ultralighters used these for structural spar bolts
> (yikes!!!). I didn't like that and always replaced them with standard AN
> bolts, but in a non-structural application like this, I thought it would be
> the perfect answer. Problem is, when I went to look for these in the Spruce
> catalog and a few others, I found they were only available in very limited
> sizes, none of which were well suited to this application.
>
> I still think this is the perfect solutions, if only we can find the proper
> connecter. Any ideas?
>
> Andy
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Problem solved. Go to http://www.westmarine.com/
Here's the exact page
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=539
They call them Ball-Lock Fastpins. I use one on my right stick. I had to
remove a little more material from the seat pan to allow for full still
deflection. Works great.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
I use one of there SS quick pins
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Gold" <winterland@
rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear
>
> In my 6A, I pulled out the right side stick and filed sharp teeth into its
> bottom end. The idea was that this would be a good size tool that's
> always
> in the airplane, easily reachable, that didn't take up any extra space and
> didn't add any weight.
>
> The unexpected problem was (and still is) finding a quick disconnect
> fastener to replace the AN-3 bolt that holds the stick in its socket.
> Years
> ago in the ultralight community we had quick disconnect fasteners which we
> called pip-pins which provided a good size handle and a button which
> released a small ball inside the pin, thus allowing it to be quickly
> pulled
> from its socket. Ultralighters used these for structural spar bolts
> (yikes!!!). I didn't like that and always replaced them with standard AN
> bolts, but in a non-structural application like this, I thought it would
> be
> the perfect answer. Problem is, when I went to look for these in the
> Spruce
> catalog and a few others, I found they were only available in very limited
> sizes, none of which were well suited to this application.
>
> I still think this is the perfect solutions, if only we can find the
> proper
> connecter. Any ideas?
>
> Andy
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy" <rer51(at)lincsat.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear
>
>
>>
>> I got this item from my Firefighter Son. Light and effective. 5 in 1
>> tool with holder. $12.95 at this site. I have no interest in this
>> company, just safety.
>> http://www.thecommandcenterwinchester.com/emi_extricator_5_in_1_lifesaver_.htm
>> Randy
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <smileyburnett(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Ladies and Gentlemen:
Would the plastic V-shaped spring device that holds swimming pool attachments to
the aluminum tube handles possibly work in the smaller control stick?
Just a thought.
Ron Burnett
RV-6A Subbie powered in progress
>
> From: "Andy Gold" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
> Date: 2005/03/23 Wed PM 02:56:10 GMT
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Reaming vs Drilling |
Hi all,
I briefly saw (and now can't find) a little blurb on the idea of using a #40
reamer to enlarge rivet holes in pre-punched parts as opposed to using a #40
drill. The notion was that there is less chatter, rounder hole, less need to
deburr. Anyone had any experience with this or know the source of the reamer?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
I'm in the avionics dreaming stage of my RV-8A construction. I'm
debating the advantages of an autopilot - initially, based on my 4500
hours in A-4's without an autopilot and acceptance that stabilized wing
trim was always an impossible dream, I felt that an autopilot wasn't
worth the hassle. I plan to do a lot of cross country flying, but I'm
also one of those guys who doesn't defer to automobile cruise control.
Anyone have biased opinions about RV autopilots?
Paul Valovich
RV-8A QB
Ridgecrest, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
This is it. I like the McMaster version better as it has a bigger pulling
area. Here's their catalog address:
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Enter search for "Push-Button Quick-Release Pins"
Does anyone know the needed grip length for the 6/6A right side control
stick socket? The pin is available in 1" or 1.25 ". I think the 1" is
good, but I'd like to make sure before ordering. The price is $15.
The 1" grip length version is part number 90293A102
The 1.25" grip length version is part number 90293A103
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear
>
> Hi Andy,
>
> I agree with your idea, and I'm going to be using these
> push pins for my canopy and the rear stick in my RV8.
>
> Do a search at McMaster.com for "Push-Button Quick-Release Pins",
> and I think you will be happy.
>
> Mickey
>
>
> Andy Gold wrote:
>>
>> In my 6A, I pulled out the right side stick and filed sharp teeth into
>> its
>> bottom end. The idea was that this would be a good size tool that's
>> always
>> in the airplane, easily reachable, that didn't take up any extra space
>> and
>> didn't add any weight.
>>
>> The unexpected problem was (and still is) finding a quick disconnect
>> fastener to replace the AN-3 bolt that holds the stick in its socket.
>> Years
>> ago in the ultralight community we had quick disconnect fasteners which
>> we
>> called pip-pins which provided a good size handle and a button which
>> released a small ball inside the pin, thus allowing it to be quickly
>> pulled
>> from its socket. Ultralighters used these for structural spar bolts
>> (yikes!!!). I didn't like that and always replaced them with standard AN
>> bolts, but in a non-structural application like this, I thought it would
>> be
>> the perfect answer. Problem is, when I went to look for these in the
>> Spruce
>> catalog and a few others, I found they were only available in very
>> limited
>> sizes, none of which were well suited to this application.
>>
>> I still think this is the perfect solutions, if only we can find the
>> proper
>> connecter. Any ideas?
>>
>> Andy
>>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
If you're worried about being "oversquare" then try
using PSIA for manifold pressure!
"Oversquare" is somewhat of an old wives tale, and is
totally arbitrary. You will not hurt the engine
running it at 2450/25.5. Many sea level operators
will see 29-30" at 2200-2300 static.
Here's a good article on the subject:
http://www.avweb.com/news/columns/186778-1.html
Skylor
RV-8 QB
Under Construction
--- Ivan McLaws wrote:
>
>
> I have an IO-360 on an RV-6A with a Sterba Prop. It
> can be converted to C/S.
>
> I have a manifold pressure gauge which is
> operational. At my home airport 5,000 ft I get a
> static RPM of 2450 with the manifold pressure rising
> to 25-25.5.
>
> At another airport 3,500 the difference is obviously
> greater at takeoff and climb.
>
> Once I have arrested the climb and am out of the
> pattern I am no longer loading the engine.
>
> My question is am I doing major damage with the
> current situation or are most of the people out
> there with fixed props doing the same thing to their
> engines and not knowing it because they don't have a
> manifold pressure gauge?
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Ivan McLaws
> N532JV
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
in the 4 planes we owned before our rv6, never even considered an autopilot.
now that i have one in the 6 (a navaid, coupled to my panel gps), the course
tracking feature is very nice....no nap time, but it does track a very tight
course. and while i have never been in a position where i had to ascend or
descend through clouds, knowing that i could flip on the wing leveller would
at least mitigate one of the major dangers. if i were in your shoes, not
sure whether i would spend the money or not, but now that i have an
autopilot, it sure is nice.
tmarshall
rv6
polson, mt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have
>
> I'm in the avionics dreaming stage of my RV-8A construction. I'm
> debating the advantages of an autopilot - initially, based on my 4500
> hours in A-4's without an autopilot and acceptance that stabilized wing
> trim was always an impossible dream, I felt that an autopilot wasn't
> worth the hassle. I plan to do a lot of cross country flying, but I'm
> also one of those guys who doesn't defer to automobile cruise control.
> Anyone have biased opinions about RV autopilots?
>
> Paul Valovich
>
> RV-8A QB
>
> Ridgecrest, CA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
They are not cheap (but what is...) but McMaster Carr has a wide
selection of what you are looking for.
Go to www.mcmaster.com and search for "push button quick release pin".
There should be something there that will do what you want.
Dick Tasker
Andy Gold wrote:
>
>In my 6A, I pulled out the right side stick and filed sharp teeth into its
>bottom end. The idea was that this would be a good size tool that's always
>in the airplane, easily reachable, that didn't take up any extra space and
>didn't add any weight.
>
>The unexpected problem was (and still is) finding a quick disconnect
>fastener to replace the AN-3 bolt that holds the stick in its socket. Years
>ago in the ultralight community we had quick disconnect fasteners which we
>called pip-pins which provided a good size handle and a button which
>released a small ball inside the pin, thus allowing it to be quickly pulled
>from its socket. Ultralighters used these for structural spar bolts
>(yikes!!!). I didn't like that and always replaced them with standard AN
>bolts, but in a non-structural application like this, I thought it would be
>the perfect answer. Problem is, when I went to look for these in the Spruce
>catalog and a few others, I found they were only available in very limited
>sizes, none of which were well suited to this application.
>
>I still think this is the perfect solutions, if only we can find the proper
>connecter. Any ideas?
>
>Andy
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Attached is a drawing I created that show what I did to my passenger
side control stick.
It consists of a 6" stainless steel ruler which I cut down to the
appropriate size, a #30 flush head pop rivet and AN470-6-3 round head
rivet.
That's all that's needed. The stainless steel ruler acts as a spring.
With the hole in the socket for the round head rivet you are able to
with your finger push the rivet (button) in and remove the control
stick.
You mite try a larger rivet like a number 8 or 9.
John L. Danielson
RV-6 sold
N106WP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Quick release "pull" pins |
Check out Reid Tool & Supply 1-800-253-0421 Stainless Steel catalog.
www.reidtool.com They have free catalogs
They have 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and 1"
Quick release pins on page #39. 3/16" X .5" thru 3/8" X 5.0"
These are 303 SS. Max size is 1" X 8.0". $1.74 to $21.85
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Gold" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Question on Registration paperwork |
I have searched the archives and have not found the answer to this.
Who is listed as the manufacturer on form 8050-1 ?
The "kit" bill of sale from Van's does not list a manufacturer just the
model number.
If I list myself as the manufacuturer on form 8050-1 do I also change the
kit bill of sale form?
I'm sure this has been asked many times but darn if I could find it in the
archives...
Thanks
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
In a message dated 3/23/05 9:56:41 AM Central Standard Time,
pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com writes:
> Anyone have biased opinions about RV autopilots?
>>>>
My Navaid wing leveler is one of the most useful devices in my plane- I began
using it routinely after giving a chart a good 5 or 6 second eyeball on an
early flight, only to look up at an extremely cock-eyed world. Since then, it's
on before I even reach for the chart. Also is a huge help when varying fuel
and passenger loads, particularly in a side-by-side. There are many other
units available now with lots of option$- also lots in the archives about this...
Mark -6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Breaker Survivor Tool |
I spent $1.00 at OSH in the junk stores and got a smallish cheapo
hammer. I ground the head to a point and used two clips to hold it on
the passenger side arm rest, as far aft as possible so it isn't in the
way. That thing will break anything and its hard to beat the price.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reaming vs Drilling |
I wouldn't think it a plausable solution . . . much of the time you
are "match drilling" using the pre-punched hole as a guide. Also
5-15% on the time you have the "ream" the matched holes with a drill
to get the rivet to slide in.
In any case, the drill does a good job.
Regards,
Bob
RV-8 - N678RC
>
> Hi all,
>
> I briefly saw (and now can't find) a little blurb on the idea of using a #40
> reamer to enlarge rivet holes in pre-punched parts as opposed to using a #40
> drill. The notion was that there is less chatter, rounder hole, less need to
> deburr. Anyone had any experience with this or know the source of the reamer?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV-8, Empennage
> San Ramon, California
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick release "pull" pins |
How can you be sure you are getting equal strength, etc as the
specified bolt? That would be one part I wouldn't want to fail in
flight!
Bob
>
> Check out Reid Tool & Supply 1-800-253-0421 Stainless Steel catalog.
> www.reidtool.com They have free catalogs
> They have 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and 1"
> Quick release pins on page #39. 3/16" X .5" thru 3/8" X 5.0"
> These are 303 SS. Max size is 1" X 8.0". $1.74 to $21.85
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andy Gold" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy Breaker Tool |
Frank Eldrige's story illustrates my earlier point about how you can't be sure
what position you'll be in when the movement stops or how much room you'll have
to swing something. I'd rather have something compact, sharp, and sturdy that
I don't have to swing. The passenger stick is a good idea, but will you be
able to pull that retaining pin and then manuever an 18" -20" stick inside the
wreckage? Not trying to sell any products, just sharing my thought process.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Myers" <jmyers(at)powernet.org> |
| Subject: | Re: private airport |
Brian, you may find each State to be a little different but usually it
involves contacting the State and the Fed. There are at least three
different classifications of "Airport"; Personal, Private and Public use.
That definition may also vary by state but I don't think so. Normally, no
one gets too concerned about Personal as it is only supposed to be used by
immediate family, while Private can be used by anyone that you give
permission to and Public is what a typical municipal airport is. I would
start by getting in touch with the aviation authority of the state you are
in. Sometimes there is a separate department and sometimes it may be a
section of the Dept of Transportation or maybe even some other department
They will probably have some specific information for your state and go from
there. I will be glad to help more off line if you are interested.
I sent our paper work in on Sept 12, 2001 so naturally it pretty much got
ignored for other concerns for almost a year but finally got approved as a
Private airstrip. The State actually came out and checked approaches,
length and generally approved the physical site almost immediately but the
Feds have to coordinate air space with others such as Military, and it takes
longer to get airspace approval. It also may depend on how close you are to
any major airport, specially one with an instrument approach. The State may
even contact airports near you and ask if they have any objections. I don't
know if the Feds make any "public interest" or "environmental impact"
contacts or not.
Hope that helps.
John
Flying M Ranch AL32 (Alabama -there are at least 8 or 9 flying M's in the
US)
(Oregon and Texas Flying M's are pretty well known)
http://www.airnav.com/airport/AL32
email:jmyers(at)flyingmranch.us
-------Original Message-------
From: Brian Kraut
Date: 03/23/05 07:51:18
Subject: RV-List: private airport
I have a friend that is considering the possibility of getting some land and
putting in his own private airstrip. Can anyone that has done this give me
some advice on what has to be done with the FAA, how hard it is, and who to
contact about it. Aside from city zoning are there other considerations
that he should be aware of? Thanks.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
In a message dated 3/23/05 7:56:41 AM Pacific Standard Time,
pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com writes:
> < >>
Wow, is that ever a loaded question on this forum. My own biased opinion is
that I enjoy flying the airplane but I like to switch on the Navaid wing
leveler function while looking at a chart or programming the GPS. Now if I could
just get the darn Navaid to track a GPS course I'd be really happy.
Harry Crosby
RV-6, 48 hours
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Andy,
I used a pip pin on my co-pilot stick...pip pins are available in various
diameters and lengths from West Marine.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
In my 6A, I pulled out the right side stick and filed sharp teeth into its
bottom end. The idea was that this would be a good size tool that's always
in the airplane, easily reachable, that didn't take up any extra space and
didn't add any weight.
The unexpected problem was (and still is) finding a quick disconnect
fastener to replace the AN-3 bolt that holds the stick in its socket. Years
ago in the ultralight community we had quick disconnect fasteners which we
called pip-pins which provided a good size handle and a button which
released a small ball inside the pin, thus allowing it to be quickly pulled
from its socket. Ultralighters used these for structural spar bolts
(yikes!!!). I didn't like that and always replaced them with standard AN
bolts, but in a non-structural application like this, I thought it would be
the perfect answer. Problem is, when I went to look for these in the Spruce
catalog and a few others, I found they were only available in very limited
sizes, none of which were well suited to this application.
I still think this is the perfect solutions, if only we can find the proper
connecter. Any ideas?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Reaming vs Drilling |
Actually you get a much cleaner hole with a reamer than with a drill. Also
much more round. It makes more difference with larger holes than smaller
holes, particularly those used for bolts. For small rivets it probably
doesn't gain you much. You can match "drill" with a chucking reamer just
like using a drill bit. You can get common size reamers form most of the
aircraft tool supply companies or from industrial supply houses such as MSC
or McMaster-Carr.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Reaming vs Drilling
>
> I wouldn't think it a plausable solution . . . much of the time you
> are "match drilling" using the pre-punched hole as a guide. Also
> 5-15% on the time you have the "ream" the matched holes with a drill
> to get the rivet to slide in.
>
> In any case, the drill does a good job.
>
> Regards,
> Bob
> RV-8 - N678RC
>
>
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I briefly saw (and now can't find) a little blurb on the idea of using a
#40
> > reamer to enlarge rivet holes in pre-punched parts as opposed to using a
#40
> > drill. The notion was that there is less chatter, rounder hole, less
need to
> > deburr. Anyone had any experience with this or know the source of the
reamer?
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Michael Wynn
> > RV-8, Empennage
> > San Ramon, California
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Thanks All for your input. It is clear:
-It is something to think of and plan for.
-Almost anything, sharp, with mass will help break an opening into the canopy
-You may not have much room to swing an ax or pull a control stick out to use it.
-Tool access may be limited, a folding/locking pocket knife on person may be ideal**
-You wont know unless it happens and we can learn from others who have been there.
-Possible tools: Fire extinguishers, folding pocket-knife, survival knife, hatchet,
ball peen hammer and control stick. (For what it is worth large commercial
aircraft req a crash ax.)
(Apologies to Sam for bringing this up again, but I checked and found some useful
info and a lot of broken links on survival tools. I don't think a removable
control stick it the last word on the topic; Sorry, no disrespect to your expertise
or tribal knowledge. RV-list searches: canopy breaking; getting out; survival;
survival tool; egress)
**One good point was from someone who wrote me direct. They actually had to break
out of an inverted RV and had this great observation, You might not be able
to get to your tool (including a control stick). This pilot ended up in the baggage
compartment, but he had a folding knife w/ a locking blade on his person,
which allowed him to start a hole in the canopy, allowed him a hand-hold to
break a larger hole big enough to crawl out of.
> " As has been mentioned many times on this forum, the side-by-side RVs are
> already carrying a good canopy bustin' tool. Make sure you provide for
> removal of the passenger control stick; it is long enough to get both
> hands on it and you should be able to ram it though the canopy."
Sam, I check the archives very carefully before posting this question, and respectfully
disagree a removable control stick is the definitive device to extricate
ones self from an inverted RV, side-by-side or other wise. It is all conjecture
anyway.
> Sam: "The stick in my RV-6 just slips into place with no pins or such holding
it."
Not too crazy about the idea of a control stick held in with friction so it can
be removed easily. No offense. What I do know is knives, fire extinguishers,
kicking and hands have been used to break-out of an overturned RV, but I have
never heard of a control stick being used (but could be wrong). I am sure it could
work. I respectfully submit having a back-up the control stick for canopy
breaking is not a bad idea. The idea of a back-up folding knife in your pocket
(or attached to your sholder strap) with a locking blade may be a life saver?
Cheers George
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Frank Eldridge wrote:
>. . . in my
>accident, although I was wearing a shoulder harness and seat belts, I
>was thrown into the baggage compartment upside down . . .
>
I have read three stories about side by side RV's flipping over after an
off field landing in which the pilot somehow ended up in the baggage
area. I would really like to know why this happens and how to stop it
from happening. Obviously the pilot has to slip between the shoulder
harness and the cross member behind the seats. Maybe the two shoulder
harness slip down off both shoulders as the plane flips over. A link to
tie both shoulder straps together just behind the seat might stop it. I
know that to prevent a spinal compression injury the shoulder straps
have to secured behind you at the same level as your shoulder and NOT to
the floor. In the case of the RV the shoulder straps are tied to a
point far behind you. Some kind of loop that was slightly above your
shoulder on the cross member behind the seats to feed each shoulder
strap through could be added pretty easily. Maybe it is best to just
let yourself get flinged into the baggage area. I don't think any of
the three pilots I read about that ended up there, suffered any serious
injury because of it. Maybe the lesson to learn it to mount what ever
canopy breaker you decide on in the baggage area. To cover both
possibilities, mount one in the baggage area and one in cockpit, or
maybe mount it on the cross member behind the seats.
--
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin Navigation Alert |
Specifically applies to DME ARC procedures
http://www.garmin.com/aviation/notices/Navigation_ALERT_030405.pdf
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Hi all -
This is a link to the Robin Safety Boy rescue cutter - combination super
heavy-duty scissors (to cut through seatbealts) and cockpit escape tool - it
will break through aircraft or auto windows for emergency egress.
http://www.aeromedix.com/?_siteid=aeromedix&_sessid=51a43f7c54fe4413854a084b
2dc7cdfd&action=sku&sku=sbrc
Sorry about the long link...
best, Cory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
The only thing in any of the opions below that would work in an RV-4 would be the
pocket knife.
Kind of like the seat-belt cutters the paramedics carry. There is no room to twist
much less
swing anything in an RV-4.
Is there a device like a spring loaded center punch that will punch out the plastic
in our
canopies?
--- gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
>
> Thanks All for your input. It is clear:
>
>
> -It is something to think of and plan for.
>
> -Almost anything, sharp, with mass will help break an opening into the canopy
>
> -You may not have much room to swing an ax or pull a control stick out to use
it.
>
> -Tool access may be limited, a folding/locking pocket knife on person may be
ideal**
>
> -You wont know unless it happens and we can learn from others who have been there.
>
> -Possible tools: Fire extinguishers, folding pocket-knife, survival knife, hatchet,
ball peen
> hammer and control stick. (For what it is worth large commercial aircraft req
a crash ax.)
>
>
> (Apologies to Sam for bringing this up again, but I checked and found some useful
info and a lot
> of broken links on survival tools. I don't think a removable control stick it
the last word on
> the topic; Sorry, no disrespect to your expertise or tribal knowledge. RV-list
searches: canopy
> breaking; getting out; survival; survival tool; egress)
>
>
> **One good point was from someone who wrote me direct. They actually had to break
out of an
> inverted RV and had this great observation, You might not be able to get to your
tool (including
> a control stick). This pilot ended up in the baggage compartment, but he had
a folding knife w/
> a locking blade on his person, which allowed him to start a hole in the canopy,
allowed him a
> hand-hold to break a larger hole big enough to crawl out of.
>
>
> > " As has been mentioned many times on this forum, the side-by-side RVs are
> > already carrying a good canopy bustin' tool. Make sure you provide for
> > removal of the passenger control stick; it is long enough to get both
> > hands on it and you should be able to ram it though the canopy."
>
>
> Sam, I check the archives very carefully before posting this question, and respectfully
disagree
> a removable control stick is the definitive device to extricate ones self from
an inverted RV,
> side-by-side or other wise. It is all conjecture anyway.
>
>
> > Sam: "The stick in my RV-6 just slips into place with no pins or such holding
it."
>
>
> Not too crazy about the idea of a control stick held in with friction so it can
be removed
> easily. No offense. What I do know is knives, fire extinguishers, kicking and
hands have been
> used to break-out of an overturned RV, but I have never heard of a control stick
being used (but
> could be wrong). I am sure it could work. I respectfully submit having a back-up
the control
> stick for canopy breaking is not a bad idea. The idea of a back-up folding knife
in your pocket
> (or attached to your sholder strap) with a locking blade may be a life saver?
>
>
> Cheers George
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Oops - looks like the long link isn't all live.
Try www.aeromedix.com and click on "Robin" on the left-hand side of the
page. That should work. These cutters are used in the ER to cut through a
patient's clothes in a hurry.
Cory
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cory Emberson
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear
Hi all -
This is a link to the Robin Safety Boy rescue cutter - combination super
heavy-duty scissors (to cut through seatbealts) and cockpit escape tool - it
will break through aircraft or auto windows for emergency egress.
http://www.aeromedix.com/?_siteid=aeromedix&_sessid=51a43f7c54fe4413854a084b
2dc7cdfd&action=sku&sku=sbrc
Sorry about the long link...
best, Cory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Andy Gold wrote:
>The unexpected problem was (and still is) finding a quick disconnect
>fastener to replace the AN-3 bolt that holds the stick in its socket.
>
Have you looked at McMaster Carr? A quick search found one with a 3/16
dia. that comes in "Usable Lengths of 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1 1/4, 1 1/2, 2, 2
1/2 and 3. Surely one of those would work. If not maybe one of the
other styles come in the length you need.
I can't count the number of times someone hear has been looking for
something that is easily found at www.mcmaster.com everyone should
really give them a look next time they need something they can't find
for their project. The only relationship I have with the company is
that of happy customer.
--
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mitch Faatz" <mitchf(at)skybound.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
> The only thing in any of the opions below that would work in an RV-4 would
be the pocket knife.
> Kind of like the seat-belt cutters the paramedics carry. There is no room
to twist much less
> swing anything in an RV-4.
>
> Is there a device like a spring loaded center punch that will punch out
the plastic in our
> canopies?
I decided on and purchased the Smith & Wesson "911 1st Response Rescue
Knife". It has a folding serrated blade for cutting seatbelts, a
pry/screwdriver tip, single thumb opening. More importantly, it has a
spring loaded windshield shattering tool. No swinging room needed! It's
also quite small and light, so you can carry it on your body easily. I
think I paid $20-30 for a new one on Ebay.
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburn, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Question on Registration paperwork |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Richard,
You are the manufacturer
Jim Nelson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> (Apologies to Sam for bringing this up again, but I checked and found
> some useful info and a lot of broken links on survival tools. I don't
> think a removable control stick it the last word on the topic; Sorry,
> no disrespect to your expertise or tribal knowledge. RV-list
> searches: canopy breaking; getting out; survival; survival tool;
> egress)
>> been mentioned many times on this forum, the side-by-side RVs are
>> already carrying a good canopy bustin' tool. Make sure you provide
>> for removal of the passenger control stick; it is long enough to
>> get both hands on it and you should be able to ram it though the
>> canopy."
>
>
>
> Sam, I check the archives very carefully before posting this
> question, and respectfully disagree a removable control stick is the
> definitive device to extricate ones self from an inverted RV,
> side-by-side or other wise. It is all conjecture anyway.
George, I appreciate your apologies, but for the life of me I can't
figure out why you are apologizing! In no part of my post did I state
that I thought the control stick was "the definitive device to extricate
ones self from an inverted RV". I merely mentioned that it would
probably make a good canopy breaker tool since it is large enough to
grab with two hands and is already in the aircraft.
Please, please carefully read posts before you attach a conclusion or
implication to someone's opinion that can't be drawn from the actual post.
If you wish to amend your apologies for implying that I said something
that I didn't, I will accept that. :-)
>
>> Sam: "The stick in my RV-6 just slips into place with no pins or
>> such holding it."
>
> Not too crazy about the idea of a control stick held in with friction
> so it can be removed easily. No offense.
None taken. Suit yourself as to how you attach the passenger control
stick. 95% of the time the passenger stick in my plane is stowed on the
seat pan.
What I do know is knives,
> fire extinguishers, kicking and hands have been used to break-out of
> an overturned RV, but I have never heard of a control stick being
> used (but could be wrong). I am sure it could work. I respectfully
> submit having a back-up the control stick for canopy breaking is not
> a bad idea.
No arguments from me about having a back-up.
The idea of a back-up folding knife in your pocket (or
> attached to your sholder strap) with a locking blade may be a life
> saver?
I have a Leatherman tool attached to my shoulder harness. That is
another of my options for breaching the canopy. In my opinion, after
enduring terrible contortions trying to extricate an ignition key from a
a pants pocket after strapping into a plane, a knife in a pocket may not
be very accessible.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick release "pull" pins |
Bob C. wrote:
>
> I thought we were talking the canopy? . . . but I guess air pressure
> holds it on anyway! Just call me paranoid!
>
> Bob
Nope. The only way the canopy is connected with this discussion is
concerning ways to puncture a hole in it. The bolts/pins/whatever being
discussed pertain only to the passenger control stick, not the canopy.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Quick release "pull" pins |
I think this thread is about removing the right stick, is that right. If
not I apologize.
My friend with an RV-9A who is too old to play with computers has the
neatest I have ever seen.
It was made from an old vacuum cleaner handle. There is a hole drilled in
the bottom stick stub. There is another piece riveted to the upper stick
which latches into it. You push there to release the stick. I'm sure you've
all
seen them.
I don't have mine removable. My stick is stuck.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
(Flying until it went to the paint shop.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
In a message dated 3/23/05 3:31:03 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
HCRV6(at)aol.com writes:
Wow, is that ever a loaded question on this forum. My own biased opinion is
that I enjoy flying the airplane but I like to switch on the Navaid wing
leveler function while looking at a chart or programming the GPS. Now if I
could
just get the darn Navaid to track a GPS course I'd be really happy.
Harry Crosby
RV-6, 48 hours
Mine does Harry,
Do you have the smart coupler option? What kind of GPS are we talking about?
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
In the two years that I've been reading these forums not once have I read .
. .
"Putting in that autopilot was such a mistake and waste of money! If I
could do it all over again I would never have another autopilot."
I think that says it all.
: RV-List: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have
>
> I'm in the avionics dreaming stage of my RV-8A construction. I'm
> debating the advantages of an autopilot - initially, based on my 4500
> hours in A-4's without an autopilot and acceptance that stabilized wing
> trim was always an impossible dream, I felt that an autopilot wasn't
> worth the hassle. I plan to do a lot of cross country flying, but I'm
> also one of those guys who doesn't defer to automobile cruise control.
> Anyone have biased opinions about RV autopilots?
>
> Paul Valovich
>
> RV-8A QB
>
> Ridgecrest, CA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CW Crane <cwcrane(at)gbronline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
>Wow, is that ever a loaded question on this forum. My own biased opinion is
>that I enjoy flying the airplane but I like to switch on the Navaid wing
>leveler function while looking at a chart or programming the GPS. Now if I could
>just get the darn Navaid to track a GPS course I'd be really happy.
>
>Harry Crosby
>RV-6, 48 hours
The Navaid will track a GPS course easily, you just need the Smart Coupler (mine
was built into the head) and a GPS that will output data.
CW Crane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brucebell74" <brucebell74(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy Breaker Tool |
Hi All,
My RV4 is about to go to the airport. I have been reading the posts on the
canopy breaker tool. My question is. How about a pistol to blow a half
dozen holes in the canopy? Other words shoot your way out of it! Would that
break it or just leave six holes in it? Just wondering!
RV$'s for ever!
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)access4less.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
You can find them at McMaster Carr.com
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Gold" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear
>
> In my 6A, I pulled out the right side stick and filed sharp teeth into its
> bottom end. The idea was that this would be a good size tool that's
always
> in the airplane, easily reachable, that didn't take up any extra space and
> didn't add any weight.
>
> The unexpected problem was (and still is) finding a quick disconnect
> fastener to replace the AN-3 bolt that holds the stick in its socket.
Years
> ago in the ultralight community we had quick disconnect fasteners which we
> called pip-pins which provided a good size handle and a button which
> released a small ball inside the pin, thus allowing it to be quickly
pulled
> from its socket. Ultralighters used these for structural spar bolts
> (yikes!!!). I didn't like that and always replaced them with standard AN
> bolts, but in a non-structural application like this, I thought it would
be
> the perfect answer. Problem is, when I went to look for these in the
Spruce
> catalog and a few others, I found they were only available in very limited
> sizes, none of which were well suited to this application.
>
> I still think this is the perfect solutions, if only we can find the
proper
> connecter. Any ideas?
>
> Andy
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy" <rer51(at)lincsat.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear
>
>
> >
> > I got this item from my Firefighter Son. Light and effective. 5 in 1
> > tool with holder. $12.95 at this site. I have no interest in this
> > company, just safety.
> >
http://www.thecommandcenterwinchester.com/emi_extricator_5_in_1_lifesaver_.htm
> > Randy
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | SafeAir Pitot-Static Kits |
G'day all,
Was wondering whether anyone out there has experience with the SafeAir
Pitot-Static Kits. Are they worth the extra money or should I just
stick to the Van's Pop-rivet static port?
I know most out there have used the pop-rivet ports without issue, but I
am the sort of person who is willing to spend a little extra if it is
functionally and aesthetically worth it.
Seeya and thanx,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Tool |
I thought all you needed to cause a nice big crack in a canopy was a
1/8" drill bit held at the wrong angle? And a 1/8" bit is a lot smaller
to carry around in the cockpit... :)
-Rob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "brucebell74" <brucebell74(at)sbcglobal.net>
> "
>
> . My question is. How about a pistol to blow a half
>
>>dozen holes in the canopy? Other words shoot your way out of it! Would
>>that
>>break it or just leave six holes in it? Just wondering!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
----- Original Message -----
From: Valovich, Paul
Subject: RV-List: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have
Thanks to some flight time in someone else's RV9A with a dual axis autopilot (TruTrak)
tied to a GPS, I found another great reason for altitude control besides
cross country flight. While transitioning about 20 miles across Class B airspace,
you could set the altitude at ATC's request, which made it a lot easier
to spot for other aircraft as called out by the controller; while looking like
a Pro, by maintaining the exact requested altitude.
#1 on my list was the Garmin 296, which I can now follow up with either TruTrak
or Trio auto-pilots. The 9A setup has spoiled me forever!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
CW ... or those who know ... about Tru Trak,
Is a Smart Coupler only required on Navaid? I am planning a Tru Trak ...
what kind of a so called "Smart Coupler" is required for the Tru Trak, or is
it required? It will have data input from a Garmin something.
Thanks ...
Jerry Grimmonpre
> The Navaid will track a GPS course easily, you just need the Smart Coupler
> (mine
> was built into the head) and a GPS that will output data.
>
> CW Crane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
You don't need any "smart coupler" type device with any of the newer
generation autopilos, specially the TruTraks. You simply hook up one or two
wires to the RS-232 output of your handheld or panel mount GPS. Doesn't get
much easier! Navaids are/were ok autopilots, but they're long behind the
curve compared to the newer stuff on the market.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Grimmonpre
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have
CW ... or those who know ... about Tru Trak,
Is a Smart Coupler only required on Navaid? I am planning a Tru Trak ...
what kind of a so called "Smart Coupler" is required for the Tru Trak, or is
it required? It will have data input from a Garmin something.
Thanks ...
Jerry Grimmonpre
> The Navaid will track a GPS course easily, you just need the Smart Coupler
> (mine
> was built into the head) and a GPS that will output data.
>
> CW Crane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: private airport |
Brian:
Go to www.livingwithyourplane.com.
David Sclair is the world's most knowledgeable resource for airpark
information.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: RV-List: private airport
>
> I have a friend that is considering the possibility of getting some land
> and
> putting in his own private airstrip. Can anyone that has done this give
> me
> some advice on what has to be done with the FAA, how hard it is, and who
> to
> contact about it. Aside from city zoning are there other considerations
> that he should be aware of? Thanks.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | SafeAir Pitot-Static Kits |
Scott, I just put two of the external ports from ACS on my 7a and wish I
have never started. They are big, ugly, and there is no functional
difference that I can tell.
Use the Vans plan!
YMMV
Bill S
7a Ark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
Subject: RV-List: SafeAir Pitot-Static Kits
G'day all,
Was wondering whether anyone out there has experience with the SafeAir
Pitot-Static Kits. Are they worth the extra money or should I just
stick to the Van's Pop-rivet static port?
I know most out there have used the pop-rivet ports without issue, but I
am the sort of person who is willing to spend a little extra if it is
functionally and aesthetically worth it.
Seeya and thanx,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Fire Extinguisher Location in -10 |
How/where has anyone thought about a location for the fire extinguisher in a -10?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Tool |
I don't really know because I haven't tried it but will gunfire ignite
leaking fuel? Just curious because I have nothing against firearms.
brucebell74 wrote:
>
>Hi All,
>My RV4 is about to go to the airport. I have been reading the posts on the
>canopy breaker tool. My question is. How about a pistol to blow a half
>dozen holes in the canopy? Other words shoot your way out of it! Would that
>break it or just leave six holes in it? Just wondering!
>RV$'s for ever!
>Bruce Bell
>Lubbock, Texas
>RV4 # 2888
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SafeAir Pitot-Static Kits |
Yeah, but you can get the ones that are internal with just a small
circular area about the size of the rivet showing. That is what I used
(from Wicks because they were cheaper than. ACS).
Dick Tasker
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
>
>Scott, I just put two of the external ports from ACS on my 7a and wish I
>have never started. They are big, ugly, and there is no functional
>difference that I can tell.
>
>Use the Vans plan!
>
>YMMV
>
>Bill S
>7a Ark
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: SafeAir Pitot-Static Kits
>
>
>G'day all,
>
>Was wondering whether anyone out there has experience with the SafeAir
>Pitot-Static Kits. Are they worth the extra money or should I just
>stick to the Van's Pop-rivet static port?
>
>I know most out there have used the pop-rivet ports without issue, but I
>am the sort of person who is willing to spend a little extra if it is
>functionally and aesthetically worth it.
>
>Seeya and thanx,
>Scott Lewis
>RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
>Adelaide, South Australia
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | SafeAir Pitot-Static Kits |
Wicks also sells "Flush Static Ports" See www.dvsrv7.com Look at Sept
18,2004.
Don
Fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard E.
Tasker
Subject: Re: RV-List: SafeAir Pitot-Static Kits
Yeah, but you can get the ones that are internal with just a small
circular area about the size of the rivet showing. That is what I used
(from Wicks because they were cheaper than. ACS).
Dick Tasker
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
>
>Scott, I just put two of the external ports from ACS on my 7a and wish I
>have never started. They are big, ugly, and there is no functional
>difference that I can tell.
>
>Use the Vans plan!
>
>YMMV
>
>Bill S
>7a Ark
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: SafeAir Pitot-Static Kits
>
>
>G'day all,
>
>Was wondering whether anyone out there has experience with the SafeAir
>Pitot-Static Kits. Are they worth the extra money or should I just
>stick to the Van's Pop-rivet static port?
>
>I know most out there have used the pop-rivet ports without issue, but I
>am the sort of person who is willing to spend a little extra if it is
>functionally and aesthetically worth it.
>
>Seeya and thanx,
>Scott Lewis
>RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
>Adelaide, South Australia
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
I sent this off list BUT I think some of the info might save someone from
Re-inventing the wheel AGAIN> KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net>
Subject: off list responce
> Thanks for the 4a, I was going for the Top 10 Reasons and figured that I
> should leave a few for someone else.
> Would assume that one could shoot out the side with the "up" wing but
> that's still right where a gas tank is located. Also "Gunsmoke" might be
> hard on the lungs 8*)
>
> With regard to the static ports I assume you used the ACS part# 15165 that
> looks to be at least 1 1/4" or so in diameter. We used the #15160, they
> mount inside with flush rivets and only requires a 1/4" hole for the
> raised center to pass thru the skin. The center area is raised about 1/8"
> so its face and pop rivet head stick out about the same amount from the
> skins surface. We used the NPT x tube 90 degree elbows (part# 0710-153)
> for less stress and ease of attachment of the tube to the bulkheads. We
> have done three "conditional inspections" thus far where the HRII's
> baggage compartment pieces are removed and found everything in-place &
> attached.
> KABONG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Altrack override force |
I just finished up the Altrack installation in my 6. The ground checks
in the manual check out OK, but haven't had a chance to test fly it. I
noticed that while checking the override force, the servo makes an awful
grinding noise when being overridden. Is this normal for the Trutrack
servos? I am used to the gentle whine sound of the Navaid servos being
overridden.
Thanks
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altrack override force |
Yep. That's normal. I don't have an Altrak, but on my Digitrak (soon to be
Pictorial Pilot) I have the torque set to 2...really low deliberately so
that I can override it no problem. The lower the torque value, the less
pronounced that "grinding" effect will be. My recommendation (which Jim
corroborated when I spoke with him last week) is to use the lowest possible
activity & torque settings that still accomplish the task.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RV-List: Altrack override force
>
> I just finished up the Altrack installation in my 6. The ground checks
> in the manual check out OK, but haven't had a chance to test fly it. I
> noticed that while checking the override force, the servo makes an awful
> grinding noise when being overridden. Is this normal for the Trutrack
> servos? I am used to the gentle whine sound of the Navaid servos being
> overridden.
>
> Thanks
> Jeff Point
> RV-6
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
Hey All,
I have most of my tail feathers finished, but I am running into trouble with
the right elevator. Both my left elevator and rudder are finished and look
good, but when I try to put the right together after the final bend process,
the 703 tip rib doesn't align correctly, even though the trailing edge is as
straight a possible prior to trying to install it. With just the 702 spar
and 709 root rib only clecoed in, the elevator looks to be straight and
true. This is the second try for this elevator, same result on the first
try. Any suggestions? Anybody else have the same issue?
Thanks,
Paul
RV8QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Question on Registration paperwork |
Richard,
Leave the bill of sale from Van's as is and list your name as the
manufacturer on the registration application. Don't forget to send the
notarized affidavit of ownership.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Question on Registration paperwork
>Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 09:08:55 -0800
>
>
>
>
>I have searched the archives and have not found the answer to this.
>
>Who is listed as the manufacturer on form 8050-1 ?
>
>The "kit" bill of sale from Van's does not list a manufacturer just the
>model number.
>
>If I list myself as the manufacuturer on form 8050-1 do I also change the
>kit bill of sale form?
>
>I'm sure this has been asked many times but darn if I could find it in the
>archives...
>
>Thanks
>
>Richard
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Canopy Breaker Survival Gear Instructions. |
Hi Andy, here is how I did it.
(1) First cut two V notches in the bottom of passenger stick leaving
(sharpened) inverted "V" points at bottom end.
(2) Next enlarge the stick & socket bolt hole from 3/16 to 1/4 inch.
(3) Go to your local swimming pool supply house and get two plastic "bails",
(about a buck each, one for practice) they are used in the handles of
swimming pool cleaning equipment, look like a turkey wishbone and have two
1/4 inch spring loaded retaining tips for holding cleaning handle sections
together.
(4) Next shorten the two tips so the bail will fit up inside the stick with
the spring loaded tips sticking out of the enlarged stick bolt holes. Tips
should only protrude out through stick socket about 1/16 inch or less, just
enough that you can feel them in the dark. Round shoulders of tips slightly
to make stick installation easier.
(5) Install in aircraft and you now have a secure passenger stick that is
easy to remove for maintenance, non pilot passengers and a quick release
canopy breaking tool.
George McNutt
Langley BC
6A flying
7A fuse
In my 6A, I pulled out the right side stick and filed sharp teeth into its
bottom end. The idea was that this would be a good size tool that's always
in the airplane, easily reachable, that didn't take up any extra space and
didn't add any weight.
The unexpected problem was (and still is) finding a quick disconnect
fastener to replace the AN-3 bolt
snip -------------------
I still think this is the perfect solutions, if only we can find the proper
connecter. Any ideas?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
Paul,
I used to feel this way too, but, as I get older, I'm finding it a lot
more
enjoyable on long cross country trips to turn on the autopilot and enjoy
the ride. After two short stops, and 8 hours in the air, being "fresh"
enough
to be able to complete a 40 knot 90* crosswind at the destination is
enough reason for an autopilot....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 375+ Hrs
RV-6A N925RV 2008 Hrs
From:
"Valovich, Paul"
I'm in the avionics dreaming stage of my RV-8A construction. I'm
debating the advantages of an autopilot - initially, based on my
4500
hours in A-4's without an autopilot and acceptance that stabilized
wing
trim was always an impossible dream, I felt that an autopilot
wasn't
worth the hassle. I plan to do a lot of cross country flying, but
I'm
also one of those guys who doesn't defer to automobile cruise
control.
Anyone have biased opinions about RV autopilots?
Paul Valovich
RV-8A QB
Ridgecrest, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Altrack override force |
Nothing is grinding, you are just pushing the stepper motor to a different
step. You will have no problem overpowering it, if the trim is too far off,
the trim will easily overpower the servo.
The real beauty of the Altrak system is there is no tuning. Just install
it, go flying and turn it on! If it doesn't hold alt, turn it off, retrim,
and turn it on again. A wonderful product!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Question on Registration paperwork |
Richard,
I don't know if this has been mentioned, but be sure to answer "Number of"
as "seats two." This cost me about a month of waiting for my registration.
It may be worth your while to get a copy of AC 20-27E which has samples of
all this paperwork. It has to be perfect or the feds will bounce it back to
you.
Hope all goes well for you.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Was flying, now being painted)
In a message dated 3/24/05 1:44:28 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com writes:
Richard,
Leave the bill of sale from Van's as is and list your name as the
manufacturer on the registration application. Don't forget to send the
notarized affidavit of ownership.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Question on Registration paperwork
>Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 09:08:55 -0800
>
>
>
>
>I have searched the archives and have not found the answer to this.
>
>Who is listed as the manufacturer on form 8050-1 ?
>
>The "kit" bill of sale from Van's does not list a manufacturer just the
>model number.
>
>If I list myself as the manufacuturer on form 8050-1 do I also change the
>kit bill of sale form?
>
>I'm sure this has been asked many times but darn if I could find it in the
>archives...
>
>Thanks
>
>Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
I recall reading an Australian accident investigation report on a -6 mishap
some years ago. (Perhaps some of our colleagues from Oz could point out a
web-link). Apart from the cause of the accident (I think it was a prop blade
failure) the behaviour of the structure on impact was discussed. On touching
down on a rough surface, the nose dug in and came to an abrupt stop with
inertia driving the tail section further forward. Analysis was that the
fuselage longerons in the cockpit area failed by bowing or buckling outward.
This allowed the tail cone to continue upwards and forward into the cockpit
area fatally injuring the pilot (and sole occupant). Short story is that a
good seat belt installation will not help much if the cockpit space deforms
in a crash, (ie, gets crushed.) Not a happy thought.
Anyway, not mentioned in the report is if the top member of the F-605
bulkhead behind the seats remained intact. If it failed or came detached
because the longerons were being stressed in an outwards direction then the
back of the seats would not be supported and would allow the occupants to
fall backwards into the baggage compartment after things came to a stop.
Perhaps this is what happens in the more severe touchdown, dig-in, flip
forwards mishaps. If so, better shoulder harness design, etc. will not help
much.
Can anyone who has survived or seen such an RV-6 or -7 mishap comment
further?
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris W" <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear
> <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net>
>
> Frank Eldridge wrote:
>
>>. . . in my
>>accident, although I was wearing a shoulder harness and seat belts, I
>>was thrown into the baggage compartment upside down . . .
>>
> I have read three stories about side by side RV's flipping over after an
> off field landing in which the pilot somehow ended up in the baggage
> area. I would really like to know why this happens and how to stop it
> from happening. Obviously the pilot has to slip between the shoulder
> harness and the cross member behind the seats. Maybe the two shoulder
> harness slip down off both shoulders as the plane flips over. A link to
> tie both shoulder straps together just behind the seat might stop it. I
> know that to prevent a spinal compression injury the shoulder straps
> have to secured behind you at the same level as your shoulder and NOT to
> the floor. In the case of the RV the shoulder straps are tied to a
> point far behind you. Some kind of loop that was slightly above your
> shoulder on the cross member behind the seats to feed each shoulder
> strap through could be added pretty easily. Maybe it is best to just
> let yourself get flinged into the baggage area. I don't think any of
> the three pilots I read about that ended up there, suffered any serious
> injury because of it. Maybe the lesson to learn it to mount what ever
> canopy breaker you decide on in the baggage area. To cover both
> possibilities, mount one in the baggage area and one in cockpit, or
> maybe mount it on the cross member behind the seats.
>
> --
> Chris W
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick release "pull" pins |
Are any using (or maybe why not advisable to use) pull pins for
ground-adjustable peddle rails and links. Considering for my -8. Thanks,
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)nomadwi.com> |
Hi folks:
Last fall I bought a Digiflight II for my RV-4 and consider it the best
investment I could possibility make for my airplane. I have flown over 100
different aircraft types in my flying career and the RVs are by far the best
handling machines on the planet. But that does not make them the most
stable on a long cross country. With the Digiflight the XC workload is
reduced to such a degree the long trips are a no-brainer. I can't say
enough good things about this autopilot. It is flawless, holds altitude
within 10 feet, lateral track within .05 of a NM. I use it all the time.
If you plan to fly your RV IFR, it is mandatory. Save your pennies, keep
the old car for a couple more years and buy an autopilot!!
Doug Weiler
N722DW, RV-4, 170 hrs TT
On 3/24/05 7:28 AM, "Fred Stucklen" wrote:
>
> Paul,
>
> I used to feel this way too, but, as I get older, I'm finding it a lot
> more
> enjoyable on long cross country trips to turn on the autopilot and enjoy
> the ride. After two short stops, and 8 hours in the air, being "fresh"
> enough
> to be able to complete a 40 knot 90* crosswind at the destination is
> enough reason for an autopilot....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV 375+ Hrs
> RV-6A N925RV 2008 Hrs
>
>
>
>
>
> From:
>
> "Valovich, Paul"
>
>
>
>
> I'm in the avionics dreaming stage of my RV-8A construction. I'm
> debating the advantages of an autopilot - initially, based on my
> 4500
> hours in A-4's without an autopilot and acceptance that stabilized
> wing
> trim was always an impossible dream, I felt that an autopilot
> wasn't
> worth the hassle. I plan to do a lot of cross country flying, but
> I'm
> also one of those guys who doesn't defer to automobile cruise
> control.
> Anyone have biased opinions about RV autopilots?
>
> Paul Valovich
>
> RV-8A QB
>
> Ridgecrest, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick release "pull" pins |
There's minimal stress unless the copilot is trying to pull the stick out,
in which case I think he would have to be Hercules to shear a stainless
steel pin. Besides, every time you remove the stick you can inspect the
pin.
ps I HATE FINISHING FIBERGLASS!!!
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Quick release "pull" pins
>
> How can you be sure you are getting equal strength, etc as the
> specified bolt? That would be one part I wouldn't want to fail in
> flight!
>
> Bob
>
>
> wrote:
>>
>> Check out Reid Tool & Supply 1-800-253-0421 Stainless Steel catalog.
>> www.reidtool.com They have free catalogs
>> They have 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and 1"
>> Quick release pins on page #39. 3/16" X .5" thru 3/8" X 5.0"
>> These are 303 SS. Max size is 1" X 8.0". $1.74 to $21.85
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Andy Gold" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Mather" <peter(at)mather.com> |
| Subject: | IO-320-B1A for RV9A? |
Has anyone used an IO-320-B1A on a 9 or 9A? or any othere Vans. At first
glance both the engine and prop off a Twin Commanche should work well as
speeds are quite similar. Any comments appreciated.
Best Regards
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
I have about 300 hours on the navaid, and another 300 hours on the trio and
I would never go back to the navaid. This is particularly true if your GPS
has predictive functions and can anticipate a turn. The GNS garmins do this,
and I've heard some of the handhelds do as well now.
Also, to plug pending developments, since I do not work for trio, they are
soon to be beta testing their altitude/vert speed management system.
In fact, from my perspective, the best thing about Trutrak is they provide
competition, which keeps the prices down....
;{)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Cary <cary(at)Fusion.gat.com> |
Van's instructions say not to prime anything inside of the tank but I
was wondering about alodine. There are a couple parts that are not
alclad which might benefit from some protection. Is alodine OK
inside tank or should I not worry and leave everything inside tank
alone?
Bill RV-9A wings
Ramona, CA
--
William Cary
Manager: Electrical Systems Engineering
GENERAL ATOMICS
Fusion Group
Tel. (858)455-2486, Fax (858)455-4190
e-mail cary(at)fusion.gat.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
Bill,
I think alodining fuel tank components is ok. I asked Van's and they said
no problem. In order to meet Mil-spec, tank sealants must be tested on
alodined surfaces, so there should be no sealing problems.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Cary" <cary(at)Fusion.gat.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tank Prep
>
> Van's instructions say not to prime anything inside of the tank but I
> was wondering about alodine. There are a couple parts that are not
> alclad which might benefit from some protection. Is alodine OK
> inside tank or should I not worry and leave everything inside tank
> alone?
>
> Bill RV-9A wings
> Ramona, CA
> --
>
> William Cary
> Manager: Electrical Systems Engineering
> GENERAL ATOMICS
> Fusion Group
> Tel. (858)455-2486, Fax (858)455-4190
> e-mail cary(at)fusion.gat.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
In a message dated 3/23/05 5:24:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
cwcrane(at)gbronline.com writes:
> < Coupler (minewas built into the head) and a GPS that will output data.
> >>
> I have the same Navaid with built in coupler and a panel mounted hand held
> Garmin 195 that has a data output line. As far as I can tell it is wired
> correctly to the Navaid. I would certainly appreciate any suggestions.
Harry Crosby
RV-6, 50 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <paul(at)kitlog.com> |
| Subject: | Question on Registration paperwork |
If you own a copy of KitLog Pro, all of this documentation, including the
AC20-27E and sample forms are included. You can edit them in PDF format for
a clean presentation.
If not, these same forms are all available on the FAA website. Again,
review 20-27E and that should answer all your questions. If you list
yourself as the manufacturer, and don't call it an RV, you *could* save
money on your taxes. That is whole other topic though, and there are pros
(tax savings) and cons (resale, insurance) to calling it an RV.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Question on Registration paperwork
Richard,
I don't know if this has been mentioned, but be sure to answer "Number of"
as "seats two." This cost me about a month of waiting for my registration.
It may be worth your while to get a copy of AC 20-27E which has samples of
all this paperwork. It has to be perfect or the feds will bounce it back
to
you.
Hope all goes well for you.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Was flying, now being painted)
In a message dated 3/24/05 1:44:28 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com writes:
Richard,
Leave the bill of sale from Van's as is and list your name as the
manufacturer on the registration application. Don't forget to send the
notarized affidavit of ownership.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Question on Registration paperwork
>Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2005 09:08:55 -0800
>
>
>
>
>I have searched the archives and have not found the answer to this.
>
>Who is listed as the manufacturer on form 8050-1 ?
>
>The "kit" bill of sale from Van's does not list a manufacturer just the
>model number.
>
>If I list myself as the manufacuturer on form 8050-1 do I also change the
>kit bill of sale form?
>
>I'm sure this has been asked many times but darn if I could find it in
the
>archives...
>
>Thanks
>
>Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-320-B1A for RV9A? |
Peter,
Haven't done it myself. However, my buddy, Eric Hensen has one on his
RV6. The B1A uses a Dynafocal 2 mount (18 degrees rather than 30 degrees)
as opposed to the more common Dynafocal 1 mount. The Dynafocal 2 mounts are
designed for engines on pylons (a twin). The engine sits much further
forward. The Dynafocal 1 mount is the preferred (less transmitted
vibration) mount for any RV.
The B1A also requires special (expen$ive) spacers between the crankcase
and the mounts. Make sure you get these with your engine. If you plan on
rebuilding the engine, you can have Divco convert your crankcases from
Dynafocal 2 to Dynafocal 1 for a reasonable fee. My friend didn't get the
spacers with his engine. It was a PITA to find them. He didn't learn of the
mounting difference until AFTER he got his crankcases back from Divco! :-(
Is this engine a narrow deck (1960s) or wide deck (1970s & later) model?
It is an IO-320-B1A and not a LIO-320-B1A, I hope.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Has anyone used an IO-320-B1A on a 9 or 9A? or any othere Vans. At first
>glance both the engine and prop off a Twin Commanche should work well as
>speeds are quite similar. Any comments appreciated.
>
>Best Regards
>
>Peter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
Bill
The Mil-Specs state that ProSeal (and clones) will adhere better to an
Alodined surface, as opposed to bare aluminum.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Van's instructions say not to prime anything inside of the tank but I
>was wondering about alodine. There are a couple parts that are not
>alclad which might benefit from some protection. Is alodine OK
>inside tank or should I not worry and leave everything inside tank
>alone?
>
>Bill RV-9A wings
>Ramona, CA
>--
>
>William Cary
>Manager: Electrical Systems Engineering
>GENERAL ATOMICS
>Fusion Group
>Tel. (858)455-2486, Fax (858)455-4190
>e-mail cary(at)fusion.gat.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Ivan:
An article of "oversquare" operations from Lycoming is noted below. This has to
do more with constant speed props but is related to your question. To answer
you question, you are OK oversquare and your numbers indicate you are making about
87%-89% power. Your MAP number of 25-25.5" inches at 5000 feet is pretty
good. Sounds like you are getting may be 1" more MAP than expected for static
conditions. You did not state the pressure altitude which may be lower than 5000
feet. (An excerpt form the Lycoming article)
"Is it a fact, or is it fiction, that engines with constant speed props should
not use power settings where inches of mercury exceed RPM in hundreds? I am referring
of course to non-turbocharged engines in general ."
The answer to this question is easily found in cruise power charts of the airframe
Pilots Operating Handbook. Whatever the combinations of RPM and MP listed
in the charts they have been flight tested and approved by the airframe and powerplant
engineers. Therefore, if there are power settings such as 2100 RPM and
24" MP in the power chart, they are approved for use.
The confusion over so-called "squared" power settings (i. e. 2400 x 24" MP), appears
to have been a carry-over from some models of the old radial engines which
were vulnerable to excessive bearing wear where a MP higher than "squared"
was used. More pressure on the bearings with the higher than "squared" MP was
the cause of their problem. However, changes in design, metals, and lubricants
permit changes in operation in the more modern flat opposed powerplants.
There are limits to how oversquare you go, but Skylor is correct it is an old wives
tale and likely rooted in some limits of early aircraft engines. However,
the actual amount of "oversquare" does have practical limits and recommendations
by Lycoming. Recommend you get the operation manual for the engine you have.
Of course with a fixed pitch prop you do not directly control RPM as you do
with a C/S prop. The 28-29" at 2200-2300 rpm (5-6" difference), Skylor states
is only on the first part of the initial take off run at SL on an engine with
a fixed pitch prop. For cruise or climb you will not see these numbers and MAP
and RPM will be closer. George
Lycoming operation tip from the "FLYER" newsletter
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/keyReprints/operation/powerSettings.html
Other key reprints of operation articles from Lycoming
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation.html
>
>"Oversquare" is somewhat of an old wives tale, and is
>totally arbitrary. You will not hurt the engine
>running it at 2450/25.5. Many sea level operators
>will see 29-30" at 2200-2300 static.
>
>http://www.avweb.com/news/columns/186778-1.html
>Skylor
>RV-8 QB
>
> > Ivan McLaws wrote:
> >
> > I have an IO-360 on an RV-6A with a Sterba Prop. It
> > can be converted to C/S.
> >
> > I have a manifold pressure gauge which is
> > operational. At my home airport 5,000 ft I get a
> > static RPM of 2450 with the manifold pressure rising
> > to 25-25.5.
> > My question is am I doing major damage with the
> > current situation or are most of the people out
> > there with fixed props doing the same thing to their
> > engines and not knowing it because they don't have a
> > manifold pressure gauge?
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CW Crane <cwcrane(at)gbronline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
>
>In a message dated 3/23/05 5:24:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>cwcrane(at)gbronline.com writes:
>
>> <> Coupler (mine was built into the head) and a GPS that will output data.
>> >>
>
>> I have the same Navaid with built in coupler and a panel mounted hand held
>> Garmin 195 that has a data output line. As far as I can tell it is wired
>> correctly to the Navaid. I would certainly appreciate any suggestions.
>
>Harry Crosby
>RV-6, 50 hours
>
Harry,
It has been a few years since I wired it up and I do not have the plane or
documentation anymore. The data line went in on pin 9? to be converted to
analog by the coupler. The plus and minus from the coupler was output on two
other pins (can't recall which ones, the Navaid/Smart Coupler documentation
should tell you). These wires were then looped back into the Loran input pins
on the Navaid. I had a sub panel switch that would let you choose track or
course that plugged into the head with a telephone plug. I think I remember it
being somewhat counter-intuitive as to which one to use with the GPS, maybe
someone that is current with the Navaid can help us with the specifics.
You will need some kind of signal ground to make the GPS and the Navaid
communicate. I used on board power for my GPS so the ground lead from the GPS
and the ground/negative wire on the Navaid were connected. If you are using
batteries you may need a separate signal ground to the negative of the Navaid.
I could not get mine to work initially but it was just my misunderstanding that
my GPS did not output the data signal by default and I had to turn it on using
one of the setup items. IIRC there were two or three different data stream
standards that the GPS would output so it took a couple of tries there also.
Sorry to be so vague about the pin numbers and the data standard but maybe
someone can chime in with the specifics or you can get them from James Ham, the
builder of the Smart Coupler. The telephone I have for him is (650) 326-2669 or
online at www.porcine.com.
Since you have all the pieces, you should be able to make it work. It is so
nice to set a "go to" or "activate route" on the GPS then engage the autopilot,
just look out for those TFR's.
CW Crane
RV-6A sold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
Paul, I highly recommend an A/P for any RV to be flown IFR. I have flown
corporate since 1965 and have 23,000 hours in many different types from RV's to
P-51, and various SE & ME pistons, turboprops and jets. I WILL NOT FLY AN RV
IFR WITHOUT AN A/P. They are very quick & sensitive. You can't start to look
at charts and such without it going somewhere you don't want it to go. I
have a Trutrak with altitude hold in the RV7 and love it. There are others you
might look at and make your choice. Good luck and enjoy your RV.
Doug Preston
RV7 N731RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
>
>
> I'm in the avionics dreaming stage of my RV-8A construction.
> I'm debating the advantages of an autopilot - initially,
> based on my 4500 hours in A-4's without an autopilot and
> acceptance that stabilized wing trim was always an impossible
> dream, I felt that an autopilot wasn't worth the hassle. I
> plan to do a lot of cross country flying, but I'm also one of
> those guys who doesn't defer to automobile cruise control.
> Anyone have biased opinions about RV autopilots?
>
> Paul Valovich
Paul, I just logged 9.3 hours on the Hobbs today, and 9 last Saturday. I
can't imagine doing cross country without a two axis autopilot. RV's will
not stay put long if you look away.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 602 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
Wow!......9.3 hours in an RV 6 will get some miles under your butt.Are you
just having fun or is it business?
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have
>
>
> >
> >
> > I'm in the avionics dreaming stage of my RV-8A construction.
> > I'm debating the advantages of an autopilot - initially,
> > based on my 4500 hours in A-4's without an autopilot and
> > acceptance that stabilized wing trim was always an impossible
> > dream, I felt that an autopilot wasn't worth the hassle. I
> > plan to do a lot of cross country flying, but I'm also one of
> > those guys who doesn't defer to automobile cruise control.
> > Anyone have biased opinions about RV autopilots?
> >
> > Paul Valovich
>
> Paul, I just logged 9.3 hours on the Hobbs today, and 9 last Saturday. I
> can't imagine doing cross country without a two axis autopilot. RV's will
> not stay put long if you look away.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 602 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-320-B1A for RV9A? |
Becareful with the Twin Commanche prop. If I remember correctly, it is a
longer hub and throws the blades too far out in front of the RV cowling. A
friend that tried to use the prop had to have the hub changed as the Twin
Commanche hub that the OLD Fixed Pitch cowl that Van use to have was too
short. Also watch out for the counter-weighted props that have ADs out
against them.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,644 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
>
>Has anyone used an IO-320-B1A on a 9 or 9A? or any othere Vans. At first
>glance both the engine and prop off a Twin Commanche should work well as
>speeds are quite similar. Any comments appreciated.
>
>Best Regards
>
>Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Australian RV accidents (was Canopy Breaker Survival Gear) |
Jim Oke wrote:
>
> I recall reading an Australian accident investigation report on a -6 mishap
> some years ago. (Perhaps some of our colleagues from Oz could point out a
> web-link). Apart from the cause of the accident (I think it was a prop blade
> failure) the behaviour of the structure on impact was discussed. On touching
> down on a rough surface, the nose dug in and came to an abrupt stop with
> inertia driving the tail section further forward. Analysis was that the
> fuselage longerons in the cockpit area failed by bowing or buckling outward.
> This allowed the tail cone to continue upwards and forward into the cockpit
> area fatally injuring the pilot (and sole occupant). Short story is that a
> good seat belt installation will not help much if the cockpit space deforms
> in a crash, (ie, gets crushed.) Not a happy thought.
G'day all,
Here is the link to this report:
http://www.atsb.gov.au/aviation/occurs/occurs_detail.cfm?ID=402
And a similar involving an RV-3:
http://www.atsb.gov.au/aviation/occurs/occurs_detail.cfm?ID=96
Jim made a slight error in his write-up. The fatal injuries to the
pilots in these cases were not due to the tailcone entering the cockpit.
Rather they were due to the tailcone, and hence seat belt attach
points, moving forward relative to the pilot, loosening the shoulder
straps. This didn't occur due to the nose wheel digging in; they both
hit the ground at a rate of knots, and the RV-6 was banked 90 degrees at
the time.
My thoughts; no matter what you are flying, you hit the ground as
described in these reports - you will be very lucky to survive. As
others have said, an opinion that is worth exactly what you paid for it!
Seeya,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Breaker Survival Gear |
Sam:
My post asked for comments and suggestions to several links of possible canopy
egress tools, survival knives, hatchets and a control stick bubble buster, after
researching the achieves. Your response on the subject stated:
> Posted by: Sam Buchanan
>
>"As has been mentioned MANY TIMES on this forum, the side-by-side RVs
>are ALREADY carrying a good canopy bustin' tool. Make sure you provide for
>removal of the passenger control stick;
No, Sam, you have mentioned it several times on this forum. I saw your posts, so
what if you made this comment (many times). I am not looking for your reiterated
idea, but new input. No offense. I guess I need not look further than your
post. Your not so subtle hint is this topic is played out and the last word
has been spoken is patronizing.
I think many new ideas have come out from this thread. If you have your mind made
up or posted all there is to know on the topic several times, why post it
again. In the future suggest you omit the as has been mentioned many times or
just dont reply.
For the record you clip the Pax Contl stick to the floor 95% of the time and when
you use it, you dont secure it. Got it. I trust my passengers and don't need
to have the only control stick to know I'm the PIC.
>George, I appreciate your apologies, but for the life of me I can't
>figure out why you are apologizing!
> In no part of my post did I state that I thought the control stick was
"the definitive
> device to extricate ones self from an inverted RV".
Whaaaaa? Come on give me a break. You know what you wrote and really meant. This
second reply, for the life of me is smugness thinly veiled as confusion. You
are right I dont owe you any apologies.
Your replies only mentioned using a control stick as an egress tool, so what is
the word according to Sam. If you got something new, lets hear it. As a result
of this thread I got some great tips, not relying on one egress tool, having
access to it, flying with a control stick not secured into its base is a bad
idea (ouch) and you can secure the stick and still have quick removal.
>Please, please carefully read posts before you attach a conclusion or
>implication to someone's opinion that can't be drawn from the actual post.
What are you talking about? Sam, Please, please read what you write before you
post it, your tone is patronizing. I can and will make any conclusions I want
whenever I want, Thanks for the warning.
I read all your posts and made no conclusion or implication. Please, please dont
reply to any more of my dumb post, at least if you are going to be contentious
>If you wish to amend your apologies for implying that I said something
>that I didn't, I will accept that. :-)
Nope
>I have a Leatherman tool attached to my shoulder harness. That is
>another of my options for breaching the canopy.
Great you thought of everything. First time you said anything about it. I just
got the idea for a back-up tool, like a folding knife in the pocket or attached
to the shoulder strap for easy access from Franks post three days ago. This
is great idea and appreciate his input..
I have about 800 hours in RVs and working on my 2rd RV, so I am still learning.
I learned several great tips from this thread. Thanks for those replies.
Have a Nice Day
Regards George, RV-4, RV-7, CE500, B737/757/767, CFI, CFII, MEI, ATP, BSME
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lancenewman" <lancenewman(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing incidence |
You might already know this, but you don't set the wing incidence angle at
the wing. Any adjustment is done at the horizontal stabilizer relative to
the wing. Don't set the horizontal stab incidence angle until the wing is
set. The wing should show 1 degree positive incidence angle relative to the
horizontal stab being neutral in level flight attitude. Level cruise flight
is when the fuselage is leveled front to back at the main longeron line. If
you don't have the procedure for measuring this with the 3 and 1/16th spacer
plate on the level, go over it with tech support at Vans.
Critical Adjustments
Be sure the aft mounting point single 5/16" bolt is as near center as
possible with I believe a minimum edge distance of 7/8", look in the plans
for the exact dimension. This is the weak point in the wing attachment and
proper procedure is critical here. This should bring the wing down to where
it is flush with the bottom fuselage skin which is a good place to be. Work
very hard to ensure incidence angle of both wings is exactly the same. This
will greatly effect the rigging of the airplane and make it fly true. If you
don't have the procedure for measuring this with the 3 and 1/16th spacer
plate on the level, go over it with tech support at Vans. Use 4 plumb bobs
to set the rake of the wing from the leading edge. A small laser level makes
this very easy to do. Shine it across all 4 plumb bobs. One mounted at the
root and outboard leading edge of each wing. You will need 3 to 3 guys to do
this right. Take your time and clamp and triple check the distances before
drilling.
When it is all said and done, you should require minimal elevator trim
adjustment to trim from climbout to level flight. About 1/2 to 3/4 a turn on
the manual trim wheel. Also your elevator counterweight should be flush with
the horizontal stabilizer at the intersection point when you are in level
flight. There should be no visual offset.
Good
Luck
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: wing incidence
>
> List:
>
> Just trying to plan ahead here.....What is the maximum that you can
> actually adjust/set the incidence on a 6/6A wing? A full degree?? Half a
> degree?? It seems that with the fit of the spars to the fuselage bulkhead
> that there would be very little room for making any significant change in
> the incidence of the wing.
>
> If you need to change the incidence to any degree, you will have to put
> quite a bit of force on the aft edge of the wing to get any movement back
> there, thus really putting a heavy shear load on that one poor bolt in the
> rear spar.
>
> I don't have my wings installed yet, so I am just speculating here. Am I
> concerned over nothing??
>
> Regards,
>
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> Finishing up firewall forward
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
It's not like the Navaid is half price or anything....The Navaid is not a
"Lot" cheaper than either Trio or TruTrak. You're looking at $1300.00 vs.
$1500.00 +/- for the others.
Regardless of "additional functionality", the world is moving away from Gyro
driven autopilots to the newer generation digital ap's. Servos are getting
better, functions are getting better, and price is staying reasonable.
Technology is moving forward....
Just my 2 cents as usual...not worth too much!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid
I dont work for Navaid and I think it works fine. I dont see a need for
additional functionality. Predictive functions, anticipating a turn... so
what. The Navaid turns to the next course just fine, and you can get them a
lot cheaper. IMHO, spend the money on something you'll actually use.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lancenewman" <lancenewman(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cockpit noise abatement? |
Look up high tech foams on the internet. They sell 2 types of foam. a 1/8"
firewall foam with a metal dampening shield and a 1/2 inch general purpose
sound dampening foam. Put both on the floor pan ahead of the spar and the
firewall as well as the cockpit sides ahead of the firewall. The extra metal
shield reduces impact vibration from the exhaust pulses induced through
firewall and floorpan. The 1/2 inch foam is good for reducing wind noise and
fuselage vibration. Cut out squares and put them aft of the rear baggage
door on each panel as well as on the baggage door. This will greatly reduces
resonant vibration associated with the thin fuselage skins of an RV. The
bent skins are stiff and do not require the foam. You will love the results.
LN
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: cockpit noise abatement?
>
>
> Lucky,
>
> Not noise related, but does relate to some of your post:
>
> Abby at Flightline Interiors sells the pushrod boots for the fuselage at
> the
> wing roots. It would be easier to install them with the wings off.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
>
>
> In a message dated 3/20/05 9:24:18 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> luckymacy(at)comcast.net writes:
>
> This is probably a stretch but has anyone actually done a before and
> after
> type test on adding one of the *popular* heat/noise abatement materials
> onto
> the firewall? I've ridden in a few different RVs of various makes and
> they
> were all loud and were hot or cold depending on what the outside was
> doing.
> Can't recall my feet in a side by side being influenced by firewall temp.
> Some
> were all decked out in leather and filled in panels everywhere and some
> were
> plain. I didn't seem to notice the difference. My hunch is closing off
> the
> big fuse holes like ailerons and such will probably help the most but now
> is
> the time for me to finish off the firewall barrier if I do it at all.
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Olsen" <oll(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Australian RV accidents (was Canopy Breaker Survival Gear) |
From my reading.
As a result of these accidents (RV6, RV3) a report surfaced questioning
the low speed aerodynamic characteristics, whilst making a case for the need
to
strengthen the canopy deck rails of the RV's. Modifications were also
engineered.
http://www.saoginc.com/%5Cnewsletters%5C112002.htm
This was taken up with Vans who subsequently carried out testing on
the fuselage of a stock built RV-6.
Results:-
Fuselage structure withstood a static load of 26 Gs with no obvious
deformation. (a dynamic load of 26 Gs is said to cause irreparable damage
to body organs.)
Article including a letter from Vans explaining the above was published
in the June/July 2004 edition of the Sports Aircraft Association of
Australia Inc
'Airsport Magazine'
Paul Olsen
SAAA 04689
RV7 QB(emp)
Queensland Australia
> G'day all,
>
> Here is the link to this report:
> http://www.atsb.gov.au/aviation/occurs/occurs_detail.cfm?ID=402
>
> And a similar involving an RV-3:
> http://www.atsb.gov.au/aviation/occurs/occurs_detail.cfm?ID=96
>
> Jim made a slight error in his write-up. The fatal injuries to the
> pilots in these cases were not due to the tailcone entering the cockpit.
> Rather they were due to the tailcone, and hence seat belt attach
> points, moving forward relative to the pilot, loosening the shoulder
> straps. This didn't occur due to the nose wheel digging in; they both
> hit the ground at a rate of knots, and the RV-6 was banked 90 degrees at
> the time.
>
> My thoughts; no matter what you are flying, you hit the ground as
> described in these reports - you will be very lucky to survive. As
> others have said, an opinion that is worth exactly what you paid for it!
>
> Seeya,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Australian RV accidents (was Canopy Breaker Survival Gear) |
Listers,
While 26 Gs sounds like a lot to a pilot, in an accident where the forces
last only a fraction of a second, the human body can stand twice that while
distributed across the seat belt and harness. I should qualify that by stating
that the crotch strap is needed because of the rearward attachment of Vans
lap belts. I'm an old race car driver (drove race cars when I was younger!)
and have hit the wall many times, and I still have all my organs!
Now, an RV or any airplane for that matter is simply not as crashworthy as a
race car. That's a fact. Compare the structures. To rationalize that it
is as crashworthy as necessary to save the pilot just is not true.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying until it went into the paint shop.)
In a message dated 3/25/05 1:39:17 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
oll(at)tpg.com.au writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Olsen"
From my reading.
As a result of these accidents (RV6, RV3) a report surfaced questioning
the low speed aerodynamic characteristics, whilst making a case for the need
to
strengthen the canopy deck rails of the RV's. Modifications were also
engineered.
http://www.saoginc.com/%5Cnewsletters%5C112002.htm
This was taken up with Vans who subsequently carried out testing on
the fuselage of a stock built RV-6.
Results:-
Fuselage structure withstood a static load of 26 Gs with no obvious
deformation. (a dynamic load of 26 Gs is said to cause irreparable damage
to body organs.)
Article including a letter from Vans explaining the above was published
in the June/July 2004 edition of the Sports Aircraft Association of
Australia Inc
'Airsport Magazine'
Paul Olsen
SAAA 04689
RV7 QB(emp)
Queensland Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
> -->
>
> Wow!......9.3 hours in an RV 6 will get some miles under your
> butt.Are you just having fun or is it business? Evan Johnson
> www.evansaviationproducts.com (530)247-0375 (530)351-1776 cell
>
The pleasure trip was 1260 n.m. to be exact. We left Fort Myers FL at 0800
local, and landed in Minneapolis at 1745 local, elapsed time 10:45. We
stopped at Lagrange GA and Bloomington IN for fuel. I would guess the
autopilot flew 98% of the route. Each stop takes about 45 minutes shutdown
to startup, average ground speed for the elapsed time was 117 knots, average
ground speed compared to Hobbs was 135 knots, and average ground speed while
in the air was 150 knots. I fly at about 55% power with a 180hp, 7.3 GPH,
TAS about 160 knots. There were several periods where we slowed down to
about 100 knots due to visibilities in the 3 mile range, which reduced our
average speed a little.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 602 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Vibration/Landoll ring |
Howdy -list,
Since painting, I've had had a very noticeable vibration between about
1000-1700 rpms on my 150 hp -6A that smoothes out nicely above about 2000 rpms
to
where it is not noticeable. Speaking with the manufacturer of my prop extension
this morning, he suggested that most imbalances can be attributed to the
spinner, which would jibe with it just being painted. Any coroborating experience
out there? Should (or can) the spinner be balanced independant of the engine
as well as in combination?
I also mentioned adding a Landoll ring (the simple weight ring- not the
damper) and he mentioned he had heard of a few flywheel failures from the
additional load on this cast part- I have never heard this before and am curious
if
there is any knowledge of this from anyone on the list?
I plan to remove the spinner and see if this is in fact where the new
vibration is from, and if so will get dynamic balancing, but unsure about installing
the Landoll ring - (yes I have seem many references over the years on the list
and in archive of pros/cons on these)
Thanks!
Mark Phillips N51PW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vibration/Landoll ring |
What kind of prop do you have? If it's wood then adding a little weight to the
ring gear does
have some beneficial flywheel charactaristics. I added Landoll's harmonic dampener
to my ring
gear. It smoothes out vibrations you would normally feel at cruise, not necessarily
at low rpms.
Though it might change vibration you feel in the RPM range you mention. It would
probably change
the frequency of the vibration but not get rid of it totally.
--- Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Howdy -list,
>
> Since painting, I've had had a very noticeable vibration between about
> 1000-1700 rpms on my 150 hp -6A that smoothes out nicely above about 2000 rpms
to
> where it is not noticeable. Speaking with the manufacturer of my prop extension
> this morning, he suggested that most imbalances can be attributed to the
> spinner, which would jibe with it just being painted. Any coroborating experience
> out there? Should (or can) the spinner be balanced independant of the engine
> as well as in combination?
>
> I also mentioned adding a Landoll ring (the simple weight ring- not the
> damper) and he mentioned he had heard of a few flywheel failures from the
> additional load on this cast part- I have never heard this before and am curious
if
> there is any knowledge of this from anyone on the list?
>
> I plan to remove the spinner and see if this is in fact where the new
> vibration is from, and if so will get dynamic balancing, but unsure about installing
> the Landoll ring - (yes I have seem many references over the years on the list
> and in archive of pros/cons on these)
>
> Thanks!
> Mark Phillips N51PW
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vibration/Landoll ring |
Hi Mark,
Curious what it is you plan to accomplish by adding the Landoll weight
ring? The purpose of this ring (not the harmonic balancer) is two fold-
add weight out at the nose for aft CG issues, and add weight to the
flywheel for better flywheel inertia. Both of these are common problems
with wood props (which I have) which is what the steel ring is intended
for. I don't think it does much if anything in the way of smoothing out
vibrations.
FWIW I've nver heard of any flywheels disintegrating because of the
Landoll ring.
Have you tried running up, or even flying, without the spinner to see if
that really is the cause of the vibrations?
Jeff Point
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n6r(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Wing incidence |
Bob said:
> The incidence change was done
> to preserve the light aileron forces by not squeezing the light
> aileron, which in effect makes the ailerons heavier in feel.
[snip]
> I do agree its simple to squeeze the ailerons, but all that may do is
> cover up the symptoms of a mis-rigged airplane.
Or vice versa. The technique for 'fixing' a heavy wing isn't just a matter
of squeezing the light aileron. The aileron surfaces are meant to be flat
from the leading to trailing edge bend, and any variation in this along the
length will cause a "heavy" (or light) wing. It's common for ailerons to
start out with convex or concave spots, and often just straightening those
out is enough to fix the problem. Only after doing that should one think
about going back and making further adjustments. And even then there's
always going to be some slight variation, and it takes such a small tweak to
change it, that IMHO messing with the wing incidence should only be tried as
a fix for a heavy wing after it's been determined that it would take an
overtly NON-flat aileron to fix it.
Caveat: all I know about it is with regards to RVs, not Rockets. There could
be something there that I'm missing...
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Bob said:
The incidence change was done
to preserve the light aileron forces by not squeezing the light
aileron, which in effect makes the ailerons heavier in feel.
[snip]
I do agree its simple to squeeze the ailerons, but all that may do is
cover up the symptoms of a mis-rigged airplane.
Or vice versa. The technique for 'fixing' a heavy wing isn't just a matter
of squeezing the light aileron. The aileron surfaces are meant to be flat
from the leading to trailing edge bend, and any variation in this along the
length will cause a "heavy" (or light) wing. It's common for ailerons to
start out with convex or concave spots, and often just straightening those
out is enough to fix the problem. Only after doing that should one think
about going back and making further adjustments. And even then there's
always going to be some slight variation, and it takes such a small tweak to
change it, that IMHO
messing with the wing incidence should only be tried as
a fix for a heavy wing after it's been determined that it would take an
overtly NON-flat aileron to fix it.
Caveat: all I know about it is with regards to RVs, not Rockets. There could
be something there that I'm missing...
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
If you only fly VFR, autopilot is only a convenience but if you fly IFR it is an
essential piece of equipment, especially in responsive aircraft like RV's and
Bonanzas and Debonairs.
By the way, my Debonair is for sale -- www.clikset.com
hal
N7HK RV6a 160 hrs.
Fred Stucklen wrote:
Paul,
I used to feel this way too, but, as I get older, I'm finding it a lot
more
enjoyable on long cross country trips to turn on the autopilot and enjoy
the ride. After two short stops, and 8 hours in the air, being "fresh"
enough
to be able to complete a 40 knot 90* crosswind at the destination is
enough reason for an autopilot....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 375+ Hrs
RV-6A N925RV 2008 Hrs
From:
"Valovich, Paul"
I'm in the avionics dreaming stage of my RV-8A construction. I'm
debating the advantages of an autopilot - initially, based on my
4500
hours in A-4's without an autopilot and acceptance that stabilized
wing
trim was always an impossible dream, I felt that an autopilot
wasn't
worth the hassle. I plan to do a lot of cross country flying, but
I'm
also one of those guys who doesn't defer to automobile cruise
control.
Anyone have biased opinions about RV autopilots?
Paul Valovich
RV-8A QB
Ridgecrest, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Air in brake line |
I just filled my dual (pilot and passenger) brake system and have a one inch
air bubble in one of the crossover tubes. Peddles feel solid, but it seems to
me all air should be out of the system. I know there is a discussion in the
archives, but I just cannot find it. What say you?
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, N216PH
All electric IRF panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Air inbrake lines |
I had to bleed the last few bubbles out of our RV-4 brake lines by putting
a container under the fitting and loosening the nut to let the air leak out.
You have to push on the pedal to get pressure to force the air out.
I also built a baby food jar with a small plastic tube in the top so I could
catch the fluid coming out of the resevoir. I could alse pressurize the jar
to bleed back down.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Vibration/Landol Ring |
Like Scott, I put on the Landol Harmonic Dampener with my Pacesetter wood
prop. It smoothed out the vibration I had at cruise,the only range where I had
the vibration. I added the aerobatic ring for added strength.
I really like it better with the dampener,idle is much smoother too.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air in brake line |
On 03/25 7:17, PeterHunt1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I just filled my dual (pilot and passenger) brake system and have a one inch
> air bubble in one of the crossover tubes. Peddles feel solid, but it seems
to
> me all air should be out of the system. I know there is a discussion in the
> archives, but I just cannot find it. What say you?
Keep pumping those brakes while you pump fluid into the line at
the wheel. Can be done by one person, but easier with two.
Eventually, they all come out. You just need a way to siphon
the extra fluid out of the reservoir as you pump fluid in to
keep from overflowing...
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <flynlow(at)usaviator.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Vibration/Landol Ring |
Bob;
I am sorry, but I can't resist commenting on your last line. How many Real
Aviators who Fly Tail draggers have ever flown a REAL Tail dragger? I once
owned a DH82A Dehavilland Tiger Moth. It had no brakes and no tail wheel.
The "steerable" skid on the tail was the brake. Hence it was a "REAL" Tail
dragger! By the way the airspeed indicator was a flap with a scale, located
on the left wing strut. Low and Slo..... :)
Bud Silvers
Building RV-8
Colorado Springs, CO
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air in brake line |
I used a tube (clear polyethylene from hardware store) to conduct brake fluid from
the (opened) drain fitting on the slave cylinder back up to the reservoir
on the firewall; then pumped the brakes by foot repeatedly until the bubbles were
all purged out. The fluid just goes round and round and the bubbles escape
inside the reservoir. Simple and one-man procedure. Never had much success
trying to retrograde fill the system from below, though that's what most seem
to recommend. Encountered a check-valve problem, most likely.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Air in brake line
I just filled my dual (pilot and passenger) brake system and have a one inch
air bubble in one of the crossover tubes. Peddles feel solid, but it seems to
me all air should be out of the system. I know there is a discussion in the
archives, but I just cannot find it. What say you?
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, N216PH
All electric IRF panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
In a message dated 3/24/05 4:16:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
cwcrane(at)gbronline.com writes:
> < using
> one of the setup items. >>
>
> I think this may be my problem. Several other listers have mentioned the
> same thing. I'll find our tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
Harry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air in brake line |
In a message dated 3/25/05 4:20:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
PeterHunt1(at)aol.com writes:
> < inch
> air bubble in one of the crossover tubes>>
Pete: I initially had the same size bubble at the top of one of the
crossover tubes. I re-bled the brakes twice trying to get it out and finally said
the heck with it because the brakes were rock solid. After 50 hours the
bubble has gotten smaller (?) and the brakes work fine.
Harry Crosby
RV-6, 50+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air in brake line |
HCRV6(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>In a message dated 3/25/05 4:20:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>PeterHunt1(at)aol.com writes:
>
>
>
>><>inch
>>air bubble in one of the crossover tubes>>
>>
>>
>
>Pete: I initially had the same size bubble at the top of one of the
>crossover tubes. I re-bled the brakes twice trying to get it out and finally
said
>the heck with it because the brakes were rock solid. After 50 hours the
>bubble has gotten smaller (?) and the brakes work fine.
>
>Harry Crosby
>RV-6, 50+ hours
>
>
That was exactly my case also, Harry. I got to thinking that if I had
Aeroquip hoses for the crossover lines, or anywhere there is aluminum
tubing used, I would not see the bubble if it were present, and I would
think there was no air since my peddals are also solid.
When looking at it while applying brakes, it nearly disappears. I would
get as much out as I could and test the holding power.
Phil in Ilinois
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air in brake line |
If the brakes are plumbed as per vans instructions the air in the
crossover line is on the low pressure side for the pilot brakes and will
not effect operation unless it finds it's way into the master cylinder.
It is a different story for the pax brakes. This bubble lies between the
pax master cylinder and the brake caliper and will cause sponginess
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.A.S" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air in brake line |
Hi All,
the tread of your brake reservoir fits a AN-4 fitting. flare a bit of pipe
and put a fitting on one end, bend it 180 degress and put a jar under the
other end. You can now safely pump brake fluid through the system from the
bottom until all air is out.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air in brake line
>
> On 03/25 7:17, PeterHunt1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > I just filled my dual (pilot and passenger) brake system and have a one
inch
> > air bubble in one of the crossover tubes. Peddles feel solid, but it
seems to
> > me all air should be out of the system. I know there is a discussion
in the
> > archives, but I just cannot find it. What say you?
>
> Keep pumping those brakes while you pump fluid into the line at
> the wheel. Can be done by one person, but easier with two.
> Eventually, they all come out. You just need a way to siphon
> the extra fluid out of the reservoir as you pump fluid in to
> keep from overflowing...
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
I have a plane taht was mostly built by a previous builder. He tried to use
some type of filler (don't know what kind) on some of the rivet holes. It
is nearly impossible to sand it down without sanding into the skin and it
would look funny with some of the rivet lines hidden and some showing. Does
anyone have any suggestions for getting this filler off? Acetone does
nothing to it. I have not tried paint remover yet, but an auto body shop
told me that doesn't work on Bondo and I suspect it won't work on this
either. Obviously, I need something that won't hurt the aluminum.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | re: removing filler |
Brian,
Having never faced such a situation, I too would be scratching my head for a possible
fix. At first blush, what I would try in an attempt to dissolve the unknown
body filler is to marinate a row of filled rivets over time with a cotton
shop towel soaked through with MEK. How long is anybody's guess. Needless to
say, MEK will turn your brain cells to mush so I would take every possible precaution
to avoid any exposure to its extremely dangerous fumes. I would not use
MEK on the rivets on the fuel tanks though. Prolonged exposure might allow the
MEK to leach under the rivet heads and attack proseal. I wouldn't want to find
out. Anyway, this approach would be Plan A for me. Hopefully, another lister
will help you discover a much better and safer way to solve this problem.
Perhaps another approach would be to somehow use heat and/or vibration. Good
luck.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finished, not yet flying"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n6r(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | re: removing filler |
How about a different approach: find or make some kind of a tool that will score
a circular groove in the bondo -- something like a grommet punch or similar
that has a circular cutting head the exact diameter of the outside of a rivet
that you can just give a little turn by hand (being careful to not score the metal
of course!) on each rivet head, and you have your "rivet line" back.
IMHO worrying about this is bordering a bit on the obsessive side, but then I'm
not one to talk... :-}
Randall Henderson
RV-6
How about a different approach: find or make some kind of a tool that will score
a circular groove in the bondo --something like a grommet punch or similar that
has a circular cutting head the exact diameter of the outside of a rivet that
you can just give a little turn by hand (being careful to not score the metal
of course!) on each rivet head, and you have your "rivet line" back.
IMHO worrying about this is bordering a bit on the obsessive side, but then I'm
not one to talk... :-}
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air in brake line |
It also helps to put a small amount of suction on the reservoir while
you're pumping at the wheel. A (long) hose connected at the filler hole
with someone sucking on it helps dramatically, it even works with the
upside down master cylinders. But, be careful, you don't want that stuff
in your mouth!
Dave B -6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Walter Tondu wrote:
>
>On 03/25 7:17, PeterHunt1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > I just filled my dual (pilot and passenger) brake system and have a one inch
> > air bubble in one of the crossover tubes. Peddles feel solid, but it seems
to
> > me all air should be out of the system. I know there is a discussion in the
> > archives, but I just cannot find it. What say you?
>
>Keep pumping those brakes while you pump fluid into the line at
>the wheel. Can be done by one person, but easier with two.
>Eventually, they all come out. You just need a way to siphon
>the extra fluid out of the reservoir as you pump fluid in to
>keep from overflowing...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | re: removing filler |
There is an idea in Andy's 24 Years of RVator by Stan Van Grunsven about
shaving rivet heads that might apply. He used stainless shim stock (very
thin) to protect the adjacent skin while filing down protruding rivet heads.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
| Subject: | re: removing filler |
The person who did the filler laid it up a little thick. I actually have
filler on some rivets in about a 2 and half inch circle and 1/16" high in
the center. I could live with the hidden rivets, but after a shiney coat of
paint I am going to have lumps instead of rivets.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
rv6n6r(at)comcast.net
Subject: RV-List: re: removing filler
How about a different approach: find or make some kind of a tool that will
score a circular groove in the bondo -- something like a grommet punch or
similar that has a circular cutting head the exact diameter of the outside
of a rivet that you can just give a little turn by hand (being careful to
not score the metal of course!) on each rivet head, and you have your "rivet
line" back.
IMHO worrying about this is bordering a bit on the obsessive side, but then
I'm not one to talk... :-}
Randall Henderson
RV-6
How about a different approach: find or make some kind of a tool that will
score a circular groove in the bondo --something like a grommet punch or
similar that has a circular cutting head the exact diameter of the outside
of a rivet that you can just give a little turn by hand (being careful to
not score the metal of course!) on each rivet head, and you have your "rivet
line" back.
IMHO worrying about this is bordering a bit on the obsessive side, but then
I'm not one to talk... :-}
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
Much thanks to everyone that replied to my post. I forwarded them all to my
friend and he really appreciated all the help.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sterling" <sterling(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: removing filler |
I love the smell of MEK in the morning, reminds me of ...
But, I have had fairly good luck removing filler using dry ice on a hot
summer day. I parked my airplane in the hot Texas sun for about 30 minutes
and then I used a square block of dry ice placed directly on the surface of
the wing where the rivets were cosmetically covered. After a short time, the
filler cracked and it made it easier to peel away. Not knowing if your
rivets had a slury of micro balloons and expoxy or Bondo won't help, but my
filler seemed to be micro balloons. I think Bondo is more flexible and my
"trick" might not work on something other than micor balloons and an epoxy
base.
Sterling Brooks
Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch
5TA6 San Antonio Sectional
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: RV-List: removing filler
>
> I have a plane taht was mostly built by a previous builder. He tried to
use
> some type of filler (don't know what kind) on some of the rivet holes. It
> is nearly impossible to sand it down without sanding into the skin and it
> would look funny with some of the rivet lines hidden and some showing.
Does
> anyone have any suggestions for getting this filler off? Acetone does
> nothing to it. I have not tried paint remover yet, but an auto body shop
> told me that doesn't work on Bondo and I suspect it won't work on this
> either. Obviously, I need something that won't hurt the aluminum.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Reaming vs Drilling |
Reaming a drilled hole makes the hole diameter more precise and more uniform.
By all means do it when engineering calls it out. For rivet holes, it is surely
a waste of time. The mashed in rivet conforms to all irregularities in a drilled
hole.
In manufacturing any product, it is important to strike balance between cost (time
spent is a cost!) and quality. Quality is a difficult concept to understand
completely. Reaming the rivet hole, for example, really doesn't add to the
quality of the product but it does add to the cost. Other examples could be
drawn where the quality is actually improved but the cost is too high. One I
think others will agree with is the use of one piece wing skins (on the RV6 at
least) which gives a nicer appearing wing but at a high cost.
Drill and rivet and get on with it, Mike. You have a long ways to go to fly and
you don't want to burn out on the way.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a - 150hrs & 3 trip to OSH
PRB (California)
MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
Hi all,
I briefly saw (and now can't find) a little blurb on the idea of using a #40
reamer to enlarge rivet holes in pre-punched parts as opposed to using a #40
drill. The notion was that there is less chatter, rounder hole, less need to
deburr. Anyone had any experience with this or know the source of the reamer?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Reaming vs Drilling |
I am using a reamer just because the arguments for it sounded reasonable.
Don't think it is any more time consuming than using a drill. Got several
size reamers from Cleveland Tools I think.
Don't really think it makes any difference in the outcome.
HTH,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Wings (QB Fuse on hand)
N808AF reserved
Alexander City, AL
>>Reaming a drilled hole makes the hole diameter more precise and more
uniform. By all means do it when engineering calls it >>out. For rivet
holes, it is surely a waste of time. The mashed in rivet conforms to all
irregularities in a drilled hole.
>>Hi all,
>>I briefly saw (and now can't find) a little blurb on the idea of using a
#40
>>reamer to enlarge rivet holes in pre-punched parts as opposed to using a
#40
>>drill. The notion was that there is less chatter, rounder hole, less need
to
>>deburr. Anyone had any experience with this or know the source of the
reamer?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reaming vs Drilling |
>
>Hi all,
>
>I briefly saw (and now can't find) a little blurb on the idea of using a
>#40
>reamer to enlarge rivet holes in pre-punched parts as opposed to using a
>#40
>drill. The notion was that there is less chatter, rounder hole, less need
>to
>deburr. Anyone had any experience with this or know the source of the
>reamer?
I'm in the middle of doing my taxes. To be reamed is normal this time of
year.
*rimshot*
Standard twist drill use is fine for riveting the bazillions of holes in an
RV. Don't obsess over it. Open 'em up, knock off the burrs as needed,
rivet and move on. It's not a Swiss watch.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jbker(at)juno.com" <jbker(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | B. Kerr's rotary powered 9A flying with rotary |
N19VX took to the air for first flight on Thursday with two more today. Airplane
flys fine and engine is performing, oil cooler (which provides 40% cooling in
a rotary) is working fine. Coolant temps are running higher than desired.
It has been very educational installing an alternate engine. Thanks to Tracy Crook
for all his pioneering that has made it practical for a novice to do it. The
rotary list has been very helpful also.
The engine is a 13B built up for aero-conversion by Bruce Turrentine. Tracy gearbox,
electronic control,exhaust, and engine monitor. Fred Breeze built the engnie
mount.
A very understanding wife, Vans, and many others have pitched in to bring it to
this point.
Bernie, hoping to fly it to Lakeland (inside my flyoff zone :>)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n6r(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | re: removing filler |
> The person who did the filler laid it up a little thick. I actually
> have filler on some rivets in about a 2 and half inch circle and
> 1/16" high in the center. I could live with the hidden rivets,
> but after a shiney coat of paint I am going to have lumps instead
> of rivets.
Bummer. Well the only thing I have to add then is to be careful... if you try to
get it off with something that doesn't work, you're probably stuck HAVING to
get it off since then you'll have bondo that's likely been weakened or infused
with some substance that will reject the paint.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
The person who did the filler laid it up a little thick. I actually
have filler on some rivets in about a 2 and half inch circle and
1/16" high in the center. I could live with the hidden rivets,
but after a shiney coat of paint I am going to have lumps instead
of rivets.
Bummer. Well the only thing I have to add then is to be careful... if you try to
get it off with something that doesn't work, you're probably stuck HAVING to
get it off since then you'll have bondo that's likely been weakened or infused
withsome substance that will reject the paint.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: B. Kerr's rotary powered 9A flying with rotary |
Bernie
Congratulations on adding another flying rotary to the growing list. Please
keep the flight reports coming. It gives encouragement to those of us
following in your footsteps.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish 13B NA
----- Original Message -----
From: <jbker(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: B. Kerr's rotary powered 9A flying with rotary
>
>
> N19VX took to the air for first flight on Thursday with two more today.
Airplane flys fine and engine is performing, oil cooler (which provides 40%
cooling in a rotary) is working fine. Coolant temps are running higher than
desired.
>
> It has been very educational installing an alternate engine. Thanks to
Tracy Crook for all his pioneering that has made it practical for a novice
to do it. The rotary list has been very helpful also.
>
> The engine is a 13B built up for aero-conversion by Bruce Turrentine.
Tracy gearbox, electronic control,exhaust, and engine monitor. Fred Breeze
built the engnie mount.
>
> A very understanding wife, Vans, and many others have pitched in to bring
it to this point.
>
> Bernie, hoping to fly it to Lakeland (inside my flyoff zone :>)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LUCKYMACY(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | spare ELT connector |
I cut my ELT wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to complete
the installation to the remote ELT panel.
I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about how one has to order
a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from time to time.
I looked over Stein's web site too with no luck though I vaguely remember
him selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular telephone connector but
the wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
help...
thanks,
lucky
I cut my ELT wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to complete
the installation to the remote ELT panel.
I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about howone has to order
a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from time to time.
I looked over Stein's web site too with no luck though I vaguely remember him
selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular telephone connector but the
wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
help...
thanks,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Olen Goodwin" <ogoodwin(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: removing filler |
I missed the early posts here....do you have any idea what kind of filler it
is? If it's polyester (bondo) type, some paint removers will lift it. If
it's epoxy based, you're pretty much out of luck for chemical removal. If
you're mostly concerned with the bumps, you could carefully sand it with a
block and fine sandpaper. I'd start with about 220 wet or dry auto
sandpaper and when you get close, go to 320 or so. Is the filler on bare
aluminum or is the metal primed? If you block it and stop as soon as you
start seeing metal, that's probably the best you can hope for. I'd be
worried about damaging the aluminum if you try to remove it all by sanding.
The block sanding will eliminate the bumps, anyway.
Good luck on it. I think you can get rid of the bumps if you're careful,
anyway.
----- Original Message -----
From: <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: re: removing filler
>
> > The person who did the filler laid it up a little thick. I actually
> > have filler on some rivets in about a 2 and half inch circle and
> > 1/16" high in the center. I could live with the hidden rivets,
> > but after a shiney coat of paint I am going to have lumps instead
> > of rivets.
>
> Bummer. Well the only thing I have to add then is to be careful... if you
try to get it off with something that doesn't work, you're probably stuck
HAVING to get it off since then you'll have bondo that's likely been
weakened or infused with some substance that will reject the paint.
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6
>
> The person who did the filler laid it up a little thick. I actually
> have filler on some rivets in about a 2 and half inch circle and
> 1/16" high in the center. I could live with the hidden rivets,
> but after a shiney coat of paint I am going to have lumps instead
> of rivets.
>
> Bummer. Well the only thing I have to add then is to be careful... if you
try to get it off with something that doesn't work, you're probably stuck
HAVING to get it off since then you'll have bondo that's likely been
weakened or infused withsome substance that will reject the paint.
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Baffle spring go "BOING" |
Howdy folks-
Yanked the cover off one of my plenums this afternoon and discovered a broke
spring on one of my intercylinder baffles- the top of the spring broke right
at the hook. Can I just rebend the end of the spring (still about 1-1/2" of
straight wire above the coil) or do I need to replace the dang $pring?
Thanks!
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | B. Kerr's rotary powered 9A flying with rotary |
Congrats Bernie!
I hope the "component" from Patty and me is working fine. :-)
Also **REALLY** hope to see you at SnF.
James
(in Columbia, SC)
{SNIP}
| Subject: RV-List: B. Kerr's rotary powered 9A flying with rotary
|
|
|
| N19VX took to the air for first flight on Thursday with two more today.
| Airplane flys fine and engine is performing, oil cooler (which provides
| 40% cooling in a rotary) is working fine. Coolant temps are running
| higher than desired.
|
| It has been very educational installing an alternate engine. Thanks to
| Tracy Crook for all his pioneering that has made it practical for a
| novice to do it. The rotary list has been very helpful also.
|
| The engine is a 13B built up for aero-conversion by Bruce Turrentine.
| Tracy gearbox, electronic control,exhaust, and engine monitor. Fred
| Breeze built the engnie mount.
|
| A very understanding wife, Vans, and many others have pitched in to bring
| it to this point.
|
| Bernie, hoping to fly it to Lakeland (inside my flyoff zone :>)
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | spare ELT connector |
Hi Lucky,
You are right, it's just a plain old ordinary Phone connector, but the
wiring is "crossed over" from end to end. You can use a regular phone
jack/cable, but you need to make sure it's wired up correctly. I don't
carry spares, because most of us have a pile of them in the junk drawers at
home.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky
Subject: RV-List: spare ELT connector
I cut my ELT wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to
complete the installation to the remote ELT panel.
I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about how one has to
order a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from
time to time. I looked over Stein's web site too with no luck though I
vaguely remember him selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular
telephone connector but the wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
help...
thanks,
lucky
I cut my ELT wire a couple of years ago and am just now actually trying to
complete the installation to the remote ELT panel.
I couldn't find in the archives any specific mention about howone has to
order a *special* connector but I remember reading this on the list from
time to time. I looked over Stein's web site too with no luck though I
vaguely remember him selling them. Or is it that you can use a regular
telephone connector but the wire ordering changes from one end to the other?
help...
thanks,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Baffle spring go "BOING" |
Mark,
The spring will do just fine if you form another loop in it. don't over bend
it and use a small cut off wheel to dress the fractured end of the wire. I
would keep a check on it, as if it broke once it may break again. It could
be that the metal in the wire is extremely brittle, which caused the end to
break of in the first place.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
Howdy folks-
Yanked the cover off one of my plenums this afternoon and discovered a broke
spring on one of my intercylinder baffles- the top of the spring broke right
at the hook. Can I just rebend the end of the spring (still about 1-1/2" of
straight wire above the coil) or do I need to replace the dang $pring?
Thanks!
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | re: removing filler |
If you can find someone in your area that does (sand Blasting) using C02 as
the abrasive substance, it would remove the filler , paint and anything
else, and leave the aluminum unharmed.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: spare ELT connector |
Radio Shack sells the tool and connectors for about $10, at least when I
last bought one. The connectors are clear on many of the phone cords so you
can see the order of the wires. If yours is not clear just put a half twist
in the cable and squeeze a connector on. You can check the pin-outs with an
ohm meter. I find the easiest way to avoid making a mistake installing a
connector (if both ends have a clear connector) is to place both connectors
side by side pointing the same direction with both locking tabs up and check
the wire colors. Same order = reversed or non-phone standard, opposite
order = straight through.
Have fun!
Dave Burton
RV6 near Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: removing filler |
I know this sounds like a lot of work but no one has mentioned biting the
bullet and drilling out the old rivets. How many would you have to remove
and where are they located? It may be the quickest fix and you wouldn't
have to wonder if you damaged the skin when scraping the goop off.
Another option is to fill the symmetrical rivets. I dont think the filler
holds up though in rivets.
Good luck
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
fwiw, I also bought a previously started rv and know what you're going
through.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: re: removing filler
>
> If you can find someone in your area that does (sand Blasting) using C02
> as
> the abrasive substance, it would remove the filler , paint and anything
> else, and leave the aluminum unharmed.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
> RV9A N658RP Reserved
> If nothing changes
> Nothing changes
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
Well, it turns out that paint remover took it right off. I don't think it
woould work for every filler, but it was fine for what I had.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sterling
Subject: Re: RV-List: removing filler
I love the smell of MEK in the morning, reminds me of ...
But, I have had fairly good luck removing filler using dry ice on a hot
summer day. I parked my airplane in the hot Texas sun for about 30 minutes
and then I used a square block of dry ice placed directly on the surface of
the wing where the rivets were cosmetically covered. After a short time, the
filler cracked and it made it easier to peel away. Not knowing if your
rivets had a slury of micro balloons and expoxy or Bondo won't help, but my
filler seemed to be micro balloons. I think Bondo is more flexible and my
"trick" might not work on something other than micor balloons and an epoxy
base.
Sterling Brooks
Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch
5TA6 San Antonio Sectional
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: RV-List: removing filler
>
> I have a plane taht was mostly built by a previous builder. He tried to
use
> some type of filler (don't know what kind) on some of the rivet holes. It
> is nearly impossible to sand it down without sanding into the skin and it
> would look funny with some of the rivet lines hidden and some showing.
Does
> anyone have any suggestions for getting this filler off? Acetone does
> nothing to it. I have not tried paint remover yet, but an auto body shop
> told me that doesn't work on Bondo and I suspect it won't work on this
> either. Obviously, I need something that won't hurt the aluminum.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spare ELT connector |
In a message dated 3/26/05 6:24:57 PM Pacific Standard Time,
LUCKYMACY(at)comcast.net writes:
> < from one end to the other? >>
Yes to the first part and sometimes to the second. No big deal. If the ELT
doesn't work just whack the connector off and put on another with the wires
reversed (go ahead and ask me how I know).
Harry Crosby
RV-6, 51 hours.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | NACA Ducts and RTV |
Has anyone "glued" the NACA ducts (for the cockpit air vents) on a 6A using
just RTV? If so, are you satisfied? If satisfied which specific brand RTV
did you use and what technique did you use? If this sounds dumb so be
it. I didn't build it so there are many things of which I am ignorant. An
archives search did not answer my questions. Thanks in advance.
Matthew M. Jurotich
e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Navaid GPS tracking works! |
I guess I should feel dumb but I'm so tickled that my Navaid now tracks a GPS
course like it is glued to it. Thanks to Dan, John and Jeff and anyone else
who prompted me all I had to do was go to the Main Menu on my Garmin 195 and
turn on the NMEA data output. So simple and yet so important, and not
mentioned anywhere in the instructions.
Man, this list is GREAT!
Harry Crosby
RV-6, 51 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Howdy,
Polling the list for opinions on handheld transceivers. Our Terra(ble)
is getting reviews of "Scratchy" and the range of intelligible
transmissions is going down. I wouldn't care so much except that my wife
and I are leaving for the right coast next Friday and I don't want to
get caught short.
Anybody got real time reviews on the Icom, Vertex-Standard (Yaesu) or
JRC radios?
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
Hi Mat,
Although I didn't use RTV, I used Proseal effectively. I would guess
that RTV would also work. The contact area is fairly significant and the
parts are very light. Though the plane has only 13 hours on it, the
ducts were glued several years ago.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
Matt Jurotich wrote:
>
>Has anyone "glued" the NACA ducts (for the cockpit air vents) on a 6A using
>just RTV? If so, are you satisfied? If satisfied which specific brand RTV
>did you use and what technique did you use? If this sounds dumb so be
>it. I didn't build it so there are many things of which I am ignorant. An
>archives search did not answer my questions. Thanks in advance.
>
>Matthew M. Jurotich
>
>e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov
>phone : 301-286-5919
>fax : 301-286-7021
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | N194TC First Flight |
Howdy all!
March 27, 2005
At approximately 9am Arizona time, N194TC bored a hole in the
sky above Glendale airport (KGEU) and executed a nearly perfect
first flight.
N194TC is an RV-9a, s/n 90338 and is powered by an Eggenfellner
Subaru 2.5L normally aspirated engine running 100LL. The plane
is equipped for day/night VFR and has an MT electric c/s prop.
The left wing is only very slightly heavy. Otherwise, there are
no squawks. The engine and prop ran smooth with not one hiccup
in the entire RPM range.
I have put a detailed story with some pictures on my web site at:
http://rv9a.deru.com
The project took a total of four years - 1600+ hours of shop
time from first rivet to first flight.
Thanks to everyone for all of your help over the years!
--
Tim Coldenhoff
RV-9a N194TC - Flying!
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio |
Ed,
I have an Icom A23 . . . It's reasonably easy to run and works fine.
They have a comm only version, I believe it's the A5 . . . the VOR
part of the A23 is not that great, but I suppose it would be better
than nothing in a pinch. I bought mine at OSH in 2003 and you could
buy an A23 for more or less the same price as an A5.
Good Luck,
Bob
>
> Howdy,
>
> Polling the list for opinions on handheld transceivers. Our Terra(ble)
> is getting reviews of "Scratchy" and the range of intelligible
> transmissions is going down. I wouldn't care so much except that my wife
> and I are leaving for the right coast next Friday and I don't want to
> get caught short.
>
> Anybody got real time reviews on the Icom, Vertex-Standard (Yaesu) or
> JRC radios?
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
In a message dated 3/27/2005 11:28:17 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov writes:
Has anyone "glued" the NACA ducts (for the cockpit air vents) on a 6A using
just RTV?
==========================
Use Proseal.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting the Horizontal Stabilizer: rivet length |
Hi all,
I am at the step of riveting HS 609PP to HS-603: the bars to the channel.
The plans call for AD4704-6 rivets. After clecoing the structure together, I
put a rivet through. It is too short, based on what the manual and Sportaire
folks say. In theory, you should have 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet out
before you squeeze it. The -6 rivet puts out a tiny bit more than 4/32nds. A
4-7 rivet gives me a tiny bit over 6/32nds. By the book, I should be using
the -7 rivets as I should have 6/32nds of rivet at the shop end prior to
squeeze. Not a lot of them came with the kit, so I am fairly sure this is not
what
Van's had in mind. I cannot believe that I have 1/16th thick primer on these
parts. Any thoughts here?
Also, does it matter whether the shop head is forward or aft? Since you can
see aft after the plane is finished, I thought it would look better to put the
shop head on the inside.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting the Horizontal Stabilizer: rivet length |
>
>Hi all,
>
>I am at the step of riveting HS 609PP to HS-603: the bars to the channel.
>The plans call for AD4704-6 rivets. After clecoing the structure together, I
>put a rivet through. It is too short, based on what the manual and Sportaire
>folks say. In theory, you should have 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet out
>before you squeeze it. The -6 rivet puts out a tiny bit more than 4/32nds. A
>4-7 rivet gives me a tiny bit over 6/32nds. By the book, I should be using
>the -7 rivets as I should have 6/32nds of rivet at the shop end prior to
>squeeze. Not a lot of them came with the kit, so I am fairly sure
>this is not what
>Van's had in mind. I cannot believe that I have 1/16th thick primer on these
>parts. Any thoughts here?
>
>Also, does it matter whether the shop head is forward or aft? Since you can
>see aft after the plane is finished, I thought it would look better to put the
>shop head on the inside.
Every builder quickly discovers that the rivet lengths on the plans
are sometimes not correct. Use whatever length it takes to get 1.5
times diameter. I bought a number of long rivets, and cut them down
as required if I needed a length that I didn't have.
If the two pieces of material are different thicknesses, you want to
be forming the rivet against the thicker piece, if practical, as
thinner material is more likely to pucker as the head forms on it.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | RCA connector and intercom connection |
Dana,
See comments below.
James
Send email off-list if not clear. I have "tunes" installed and working fine.
| Subject: RV-List: RCA connector and intercom connection
|
|
| Dumb question #31259775-89870..................790884
|
{SNIP}
| The audio coming out of the DVD player is an RCA connector. The AUX or
| MP3
| input for the intercom are R/L one wire deals. How the heck do I connect
Which intercom are you using? The diagram that accompanied the intercom
probably shows an audio ground on a wire somewhere. The right and left audio
would be the "signal" on the center of the RCA connector.
You can probably tie the two grounds together and connect this to the "audio
ground" of the intercom. The other leads (left/right) go to the respective
inputs.
Clear as mud??? :-)
James
| the RCA to one wire???
|
| Got video............need sound.
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | N194TC First Flight |
Tim,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com>
>Subject: RV-List: N194TC First Flight
>Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2005 13:43:19 -0700
>March 27, 2005
>
>At approximately 9am Arizona time, N194TC bored a hole in the
>sky above Glendale airport (KGEU) and executed a nearly perfect
>first flight.
>
>Tim Coldenhoff
>RV-9a N194TC - Flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Matt,
Use pro seal from the fuel tanks. It will never let go and its
PAINTABLE unlike silicone
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Bob,
I also have an Icom hand held (non vor model) and it works quite
nicely. It works great if you have set your panel up to be able to plug
the portable into the main antenna. On the rubber ducky- works
reasonable well.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot - To Have or Not to Have |
I left MCW (Mason City IA) Friday morning and flew to EYE (Eagle Creek IN)
and shot a Localizer approach to minimums. Bought 21 gallons of gas and
continued for ORF (Norfolk VA).
I had my XM WXworx Weather reciever and I was dodging precip and tracking
weather. Ice was a concern and I encountered ice twice which I quickly and
easily climbed above. I had to change my fuel stop because winds were
stronger than forecast I would have arrived at FWA, (Fort Wayne IN) without
my alternate plus reserve fuel.
Norfolk was 2000 OVC and I got the visual. From take off to touchdown it was
a 5+30 with a 20 minute fuel stop. At least 3 hours of that was solid IMC
and another hour was between layers.
When my work was done in Norfolk, because I was flying my own airplane
instead riding on a crowd killer, I flew from ORF to HEF (Manassas VA) to
visit a College roomate and his wife. 1 hour solid IMC with a let down to a
visual approach.
We had a great meal and then went to downtown DC to the WWII, Korea, and
Vietnam War memorials. I had not seen the memorials before. It was an
overcast evening and it was a powerful experience.
This morning I took off from HEF, 2500 OVC. After takeoff my encoder was
not warmed up and Manassas Tower wanted me to enter the downwind and land
imeadiately, at midfield, they picked up my mode C and recleared me on my
original clearance. 45 min later I broke out on top and half an hour later,
west of the mountains, the undercast went scattered. I landed in HHG, gased
up, and flew to back to MCW in the clear.
The purpose of the trip to Norfolk was to fly the Lonestar Flight Museum
Corsair with an F-18 at NAS Oceania for Navy Legacy flight training. I flew
the Corsair for 45 minutes and burned 80 gallons.
I flew the RV almost 11 hours, all on my schedule, I burned 92 gallons of
gas, I spent a wonderful evening with old friends, I was moved by the
memorials and I did not have to give away my pocket knife.
Flying home today, I thought a lot about what those memorials were about,
and I think one of the things those young men and women fought and died for
was our right to carry a pocket knife, but that borders on political
commentary, so I will close.
I LOVE my RV!!! But I would have NEVER done that trip without an autopilot!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Get lighted buttons. My three year old Yeasu doesn't have'em.........
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Holyoke [mailto:bicyclop(at)pacbell.net]
> Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 2:59 PM
> To: SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: Handheld Radio
>
>
> Howdy,
>
> Polling the list for opinions on handheld transceivers. Our
> Terra(ble) is getting reviews of "Scratchy" and the range of
> intelligible transmissions is going down. I wouldn't care so
> much except that my wife and I are leaving for the right
> coast next Friday and I don't want to get caught short.
>
> Anybody got real time reviews on the Icom, Vertex-Standard
> (Yaesu) or JRC radios?
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting the Horizontal Stabilizer: rivet length |
Michael,
I ran into this in the same place in the RV-7. The instruction manual
went so far as to say "the rivet call out on the plans is correct."
Well, I didn't agree and went with the longer rivets. They look great.
Drive a -6 and a -7 to compare and I think you will agree that the 7
looks right while the 6 shop head looks thin. You will probably be
ordering something soon from Wick's or Aircraft Spruce. Just tack on 1/8
oz. of AN4704-7 rivets and your dilemma will be resolved for $4.00.
There is a running joke among airplane builders that the UPS driver will
be making a lot of stops at your house in the next few years.
I did run into a spot on the RV-9 wing where too long of rivet was
specified. Aileron bracket as I recall. We cracked a couple of shop
heads before getting out the rivet cutter. Judgment is the name of the
game and this will develop as the project progresses. In using a
different rivet length, you aren't redesigning the airplane. You are
just making it your own creation.
Here's a trick. The 1/8 inch rivet needs to be 3/16 inch longer than the
material thickness. Lay a 3/16 inch drill bit next to the rivet you are
checking and pick the length that comes closest.
Another tip, don't be tempted to use the hand squeezer on 1/8 inch
rivets. By the time you apply enough force to set the rivet, it would
have been easier to just buck the thing in the first place. Everyone has
to try.
Yet another tip. When dimpling spars and ribs, clamp the head of the
squeezer in the vice with the male die facing down or away from you.
Bring the work to the tool and you can sit on a stool and dimple madly
away. This works equally well with pneumatic or hand squeezers. And when
you dimple that rib the wrong direction, just flip it over and do it
right. It will be fine. We have all done it and so will you.
I think that another person responding to your message said to put the
shop heads on the side with the thicker material. That sounds logical
and is probably correct. Sheet metal class was 25 years ago and I think
I was sleeping in class that day. This is the third RV tail that I have
worked on and I have always put the shop head on the inside where you
cannot see it. An FAA inspector and RV builder was a frequent visitor to
the shop on the last project and he didn't say anything about this. He
now flies that plane so he must not have major objections to this method.
If you haven't done them already, the rivets for the nose ribs are the
most difficult to drive in the whole airplane. It is a sick joke that
they are among the first that you have to tackle.
Happy building!
Mark
MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Hi all,
>
>I am at the step of riveting HS 609PP to HS-603: the bars to the channel.
>The plans call for AD4704-6 rivets. After clecoing the structure together, I
>put a rivet through. It is too short, based on what the manual and Sportaire
>folks say. In theory, you should have 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet out
>before you squeeze it. The -6 rivet puts out a tiny bit more than 4/32nds. A
>4-7 rivet gives me a tiny bit over 6/32nds. By the book, I should be using
>the -7 rivets as I should have 6/32nds of rivet at the shop end prior to
>squeeze. Not a lot of them came with the kit, so I am fairly sure this is not
what
>Van's had in mind. I cannot believe that I have 1/16th thick primer on these
>parts. Any thoughts here?
>
>Also, does it matter whether the shop head is forward or aft? Since you can
>see aft after the plane is finished, I thought it would look better to put the
>shop head on the inside.
>
>Regards,
>
>Michael Wynn
>RV-8, Empennage
>San Ramon, California
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh(at)argo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
With so many RV6's now flying, I'm wondering about people's experiences with/without
the timber gear leg stiffeners shown on the plans. Vans seems a bit uncommitted
about the benefits - what's the general opinion out there - is it worth
the extra work?
Shirley Harding
RV6 QB
Contemplating gear leg fairings
Perth Western Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
Have the Vertex 210 and love it...
Get lighted buttons. My three year old Yeasu doesn't have'em.........
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Holyoke [mailto:bicyclop(at)pacbell.net]
> Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 2:59 PM
> To: SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: Handheld Radio
>
>
> Howdy,
>
> Polling the list for opinions on handheld transceivers. Our
> Terra(ble) is getting reviews of "Scratchy" and the range of
> intelligible transmissions is going down. I wouldn't care so
> much except that my wife and I are leaving for the right
> coast next Friday and I don't want to get caught short.
>
> Anybody got real time reviews on the Icom, Vertex-Standard
> (Yaesu) or JRC radios?
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A #70125
N622DR (reserved)
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
Matt,
I glued the vents in my -7A with RTV, and I'm confident they'll stay in. I
have about 70 hours on the plane now. It is in the paint shop, so I can't
comment on how well the RTV holds paint, but there is so much area of RTV that
there is no way they are going to fall off! I don't know what brand it was.
Anything will work if it is fresh. I would try a test sample on a piece of
scrap to make sure it will cure. I have had the Blue Permatex not cure if it
is old.
I just roughed up the aluminum skins a little with a Scotchbrite pad, and
held them in place with duct tape overnight.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In the paint shop)
In a message dated 3/27/05 2:28:17 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich
Has anyone "glued" the NACA ducts (for the cockpit air vents) on a 6A using
just RTV? If so, are you satisfied? If satisfied which specific brand RTV
did you use and what technique did you use? If this sounds dumb so be
it. I didn't build it so there are many things of which I am ignorant. An
archives search did not answer my questions. Thanks in advance.
Matthew M. Jurotich
e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Abwaldal(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
RV-6
My two cents worth!
I would never use RTV to glue in the vents with. Paint isn't going to
stick. You slobber that silicone on anything and it is VERY hard to get off. Go
ask a painter.
I used proseal as everyone has a little left and it's shelf life is usually
good enough for little non-critical items like this. It seems like it would
be a mess But, after it sets up for awhile just take some thinner and wash
the edges and clean up any slobber. It's been a long time since I did them but
I believe I put a few small rivets in also. I takes paint like your RV will
to the air.
Keep the glossy side up!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
Matt,
I forgot to mention that I also cleaned the area with MEK after roughing up.
Acetone would work just as well.
Dan
In a message dated 3/27/05 9:10:51 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:
Matt,
I glued the vents in my -7A with RTV, and I'm confident they'll stay in. I
have about 70 hours on the plane now. It is in the paint shop, so I can't
comment on how well the RTV holds paint, but there is so much area of RTV
that
there is no way they are going to fall off! I don't know what brand it
was.
Anything will work if it is fresh. I would try a test sample on a piece of
scrap to make sure it will cure. I have had the Blue Permatex not cure if
it
is old.
I just roughed up the aluminum skins a little with a Scotchbrite pad, and
held them in place with duct tape overnight.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In the paint shop)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
Check the archives. I don't think there is a consensus.
In my case, I didn't use the stiffeners and get shimmy under certain
conditions - typically lighter landing weights. As recommended by at least
one post in the archives, I balanced the wheelpants on my airplane before
the first flight. Obviously that didn't prevent the shimmy on my airplane.
The question is whether it helped, hurt, or just added weight. I dunno.
Perhaps the way to check would be to fly without the wheelpants
for a while.
I think the bottom line is that there may not be a definitive answer.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh(at)argo.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
>
> With so many RV6's now flying, I'm wondering about people's experiences
> with/without the timber gear leg stiffeners shown on the plans. Vans
> seems a bit uncommitted about the benefits - what's the general opinion
> out there - is it worth the extra work?
>
> Shirley Harding
> RV6 QB
> Contemplating gear leg fairings
> Perth Western Australia
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
Shirley, I think you will find success stories with and without the
stiffeners. I have them and would installed them again. I had to make a
panic stop from 80 MPH and I am convinced that without the stiffeners, the
spring rods and gear would have simply skipped along the tarmac rather than
hold the gear solidly down and enable me to stop within 300ft. However, I do
have a nose gear so I did not have any qualms about pedal to the metal as
they say. A trail dragger might not be able to apply them as hard as I did,
so perhaps the stiffeners may have been of less benefit is such a situation.
But, I believe the braking loads would have pulled the wheels back until
the rod gear popped them forward again, repeatedly if not for the
stiffeners. Not a scientific study or analysis but, my conviction just the
same.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh(at)argo.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
>
> With so many RV6's now flying, I'm wondering about people's experiences
with/without the timber gear leg stiffeners shown on the plans. Vans seems
a bit uncommitted about the benefits - what's the general opinion out
there - is it worth the extra work?
>
> Shirley Harding
> RV6 QB
> Contemplating gear leg fairings
> Perth Western Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
Shirley:
I have the gear leg stiffeners as shown in the plans. I would not be
without them. No shimmy and am able to hit the breaks very hard without any
break hop or skipping. With the stick full back, I can almost lock the
breaks up without any gear leg hop. Make sure the stick is all the way back
else the tail will come up. Yes that is how I know.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,644 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh(at)argo.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 09:47:14 +0800
With so many RV6's now flying, I'm wondering about people's experiences
with/without the timber gear leg stiffeners shown on the plans. Vans seems
a bit uncommitted about the benefits - what's the general opinion out there
- is it worth the extra work?
Shirley Harding
RV6 QB
Contemplating gear leg fairings
Perth Western Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
I cut mine off of my 6a and havent noticed much of a difference. I believe
they're better suited for the tail draggers.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh(at)argo.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
>
> With so many RV6's now flying, I'm wondering about people's experiences
> with/without the timber gear leg stiffeners shown on the plans. Vans
> seems a bit uncommitted about the benefits - what's the general opinion
> out there - is it worth the extra work?
>
> Shirley Harding
> RV6 QB
> Contemplating gear leg fairings
> Perth Western Australia
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alclad Scratch--Prime? |
Hi all,
I yet another of the continuing newbie questions:
I have primed all the ribs and spars in my horizontal stab. I was deburring
and dimpling the skins when I found a couple of pretty good scratches (well,
maybe closer to gouges) from fitting the middle ribs--this on the inside of
the skin, very near the front and slightly to the side of the rivet line. I was
scratching my head about how thick the alclad is and if I should spot prime
these areas. I had decided not to prime the entire skin for weight and general
hassle considerations--plus I live in a pretty dry climate (at least most
years).
Thoughts? O/C's striking yet again?
I used AKZO two part epoxy for the spars and ribs. Any reason I couldn't
spray a little Marhyde over the skin scratches? I assume that once dry, they
don't react.
Thanks,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alclad Scratch--Prime? |
The alclad is no more than 1-2 thousandths. If you have a scratch like
you describe it is into the base 2024 aluminum.
It is your decision whether to paint or not. I would paint (I did all
my skins since I have no idea where my life will take me - wet, dry or ???).
Dick Tasker
MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Hi all,
>
>I yet another of the continuing newbie questions:
>
>I have primed all the ribs and spars in my horizontal stab. I was deburring
>and dimpling the skins when I found a couple of pretty good scratches (well,
>maybe closer to gouges) from fitting the middle ribs--this on the inside of
>the skin, very near the front and slightly to the side of the rivet line. I was
>scratching my head about how thick the alclad is and if I should spot prime
>these areas. I had decided not to prime the entire skin for weight and general
>hassle considerations--plus I live in a pretty dry climate (at least most
>years).
>
>Thoughts? O/C's striking yet again?
>
>I used AKZO two part epoxy for the spars and ribs. Any reason I couldn't
>spray a little Marhyde over the skin scratches? I assume that once dry, they
>don't react.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Michael Wynn
>RV-8, Empennage
>San Ramon, California
>
>
>
>
--
----
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
I started with no stiffeners, and had some shimmy. I added the
stiffeners during the test-flight period, and that helped a little, but
I still got occasional shimmy, especially during winter (icy runways).
Recently I got around to balancing the wheel pants, as I had read
about. A local old-timer has been bugging me to do this for some time
and swears by it. Well, I did it and now I'm a believer. No shimmy at
all since balancing them.
I would start with nothing and fly it. If it shimmies, try adding one
or the other (i'd start with balancing the pants) and if required do
both. The wood stiffeners are not particularly hard to do, and
balancing the pants is a snap. One of these days I'll get around to
writing up a "how-to" for my website.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
Hi Jeff,
What do you mean by balancing the wheel pants? I've never
heard of this, unless I know it by a different term.
Thanks,
Mickey
> ...
> Recently I got around to balancing the wheel pants, as I had read
> about. A local old-timer has been bugging me to do this for some time
> and swears by it. Well, I did it and now I'm a believer. No shimmy at
> all since balancing them.
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
Get yourself some 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive. It takes about 3 days for it to 'set
up'. But once it does.... your NACA vents WON'T be coming off.
I used 3M 5300 on the NACA ducts (and other parts) on my last two planes. Haven't
found anything stronger yet. Be sure to refrigerate the un-used portion of
the adhesive.
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
-7A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sterling" <sterling(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | Final hours, Orndorf RV Videos on Ebay |
Last day to get a good deal on an Ordorf RV video on Ebay.
Item numbers 4537729428 and 4537703612. I also have item number 4537719007 which
is a video I produced for Mosler Aircraft Engines in 1991 on how to install
the Mosler 82 X engine in an Avid.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
I'm still in the avionics dreaming stage. Thanks to the response I
received from my recent autopilot posting, I've decided to install an
autopilot - type TBD.
Now on to another unemotional issue - which EFIS to install, Dynon, Blue
Mountain, GRT, or another I'm not familiar with? I also want to include
an engine monitoring capability - not necessarily as an integrated unit
with the EFIS. I realize they are at different stages of development,
so my questions have more to do with human factors / usability. The GRT
seems superior but comes with a pretty steep price tag. Does the BMA
screen layout really present a usable Nav / ILS display? Does size
(display screen size) matter enough to be the deciding factor? What
about the potential vulnerability non-heated Dynon (and perhaps others)
pitot probe? And probably a whole bunch more I'm not yet smart enough to
ask about.
If I hit the lottery, the GRT / Gamin 430 combo seems ideal, but are
there more cost effective alternatives?
I won't be spending the $ for about a year - planning is a big part of
the fun.
Paul Valovich
Waiting for the RV-8A QB Delivery
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Alclad Scratch--Prime? |
>Hi all,
>
>I yet another of the continuing newbie questions:
>
>I have primed all the ribs and spars in my horizontal stab. I was
>deburring
>and dimpling the skins when I found a couple of pretty good scratches
>(well,
>maybe closer to gouges) from fitting the middle ribs--this on the inside
>of
>the skin, very near the front and slightly to the side of the rivet line.
>I was
>scratching my head about how thick the alclad is and if I should spot prime
>these areas. I had decided not to prime the entire skin for weight and
>general
>hassle considerations--plus I live in a pretty dry climate (at least most
>years).
>
>Thoughts? O/C's striking yet again?
>
>I used AKZO two part epoxy for the spars and ribs. Any reason I couldn't
>spray a little Marhyde over the skin scratches? I assume that once dry,
>they
>don't react.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Michael Wynn
>RV-8, Empennage
>San Ramon, California
Just zap a little Marhyde on the scratches if it'll help you sleep at night.
My -8 had scratches and scuffs all over the place from workshop rash and
handling over 30 months of fervent building. It's all part of the game.
You're going to ding it over the next few years so don't O/C over it.
Van's tech help mantra applies: Just build the plane.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD flying five years
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Currency, was Autopilot to...... |
Doug, I enjoyed your enjoyable and educational response, but the most
thought provoking words were your last sentence.
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
MICKEY-One better way works for ever is a (2) two part foam-made by
CONVENIENCE PRODUCTS-PN-U2-12----TEL 1-800-325-6180 --You do-not need the wood,its
been
in my fairings since 1992-over 1000hrs-easy way to do it-TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01(at)aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 IO-540 LYC (41 HRS TT TIME)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: EFIS Options |
Hi Paul,
If you are waiting for the QB, then you have some time to
decide. I started looking at the end of 2003, and I've
changed my mind twice, and I have not yet bought mine.
I hope to be flying in a couple of months at the outside,
so I might be a bit late.
These units are changing very quickly, as is the pricing.
The competition is heating up, particularly in the engine
monitoring area. There are some really good units out
there, and they are getting better.
Keep your finger on the trigger, but don't pull 'til
you see the whites of their eyes!
Mickey
Valovich, Paul wrote:
>
> I'm still in the avionics dreaming stage. Thanks to the response I
> received from my recent autopilot posting, I've decided to install an
> autopilot - type TBD.
>
>
> Now on to another unemotional issue - which EFIS to install, Dynon, Blue
> Mountain, GRT, or another I'm not familiar with? I also want to include
> an engine monitoring capability - not necessarily as an integrated unit
> with the EFIS. I realize they are at different stages of development,
> so my questions have more to do with human factors / usability. The GRT
> seems superior but comes with a pretty steep price tag. Does the BMA
> screen layout really present a usable Nav / ILS display? Does size
> (display screen size) matter enough to be the deciding factor? What
> about the potential vulnerability non-heated Dynon (and perhaps others)
> pitot probe? And probably a whole bunch more I'm not yet smart enough to
> ask about.
>
>
> If I hit the lottery, the GRT / Gamin 430 combo seems ideal, but are
> there more cost effective alternatives?
>
>
> I won't be spending the $ for about a year - planning is a big part of
> the fun.
>
> Paul Valovich
>
> Waiting for the RV-8A QB Delivery
>
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the info. I was asking about the wheel pant balancing,
and I got an answer from Jim off-list. Just in case anyone else has not
heard of this, here's the greatly summarized info that he sent me:
"To do it, just hang the pant by the axle location and see how it hangs.
Most likely, it will be tail heavy. Put lead in the nose until it
balances."
Best regards,
Mickey
> MICKEY-One better way works for ever is a (2) two part foam-made by
> CONVENIENCE PRODUCTS-PN-U2-12----TEL 1-800-325-6180 --You do-not need the wood,its
been
> in my fairings since 1992-over 1000hrs-easy way to do it-TOM
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Morley Bullock <bullockm(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | RV-6 TD project available |
Hi all,
I have an RV-6 project, tail complete, prepunched wings mostly complete,
slowbuild fuselage on jig, less finishing kit for sale in the Houston, TX
area. Please email off line for info.
Thank you,
M. Bullock
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
Tom, that was confusing. Are you saying the foam is a good way to balance
your wheel fairings?
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <WFACT01(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
>
> MICKEY-One better way works for ever is a (2) two part foam-made by
> CONVENIENCE PRODUCTS-PN-U2-12----TEL 1-800-325-6180 --You do-not need the
> wood,its been
> in my fairings since 1992-over 1000hrs-easy way to do it-TOM
>
> Tom Whelan
> Whelan Farms Airport
> President EAA Chapter 1097
> wfact01(at)aol.com
> 249 Hard Hill Road North
> PO Box 426
> Bethlehem, CT 06751
> Tel: 203-266-5300
> Fax: 202-266-5140
> EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
> RV-8 IO-540 LYC (41 HRS TT TIME)
> S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
Yep, that's pretty much it. To expand a little- duct tape a large dowel
or tube to the bottom at the axle point. Duct tape a small dixie cup to
the nose. Balance the dowel between two tables, and it will be very
tail heavy. Get some lead shot and put it in the dixie cup until it
balances. Mix the shot with epoxy and glue it into the nose of the pant.
Jeff
>"To do it, just hang the pant by the axle location and see how it hangs.
>Most likely, it will be tail heavy. Put lead in the nose until it
>balances."
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
Hi Tom ...
Thanks for your tip about the two part foam. Can you elaborate on that
product and the fitting to gear leg? Can you supply more specifics about
Convenience Products. I can't find their web site nor does the part #
google.
Regards ...
Jerry Grimmonpre
>
> MICKEY-One better way works for ever is a (2) two part foam-made by
> CONVENIENCE PRODUCTS-PN-U2-12----TEL 1-800-325-6180 --You do-not need the
> wood,its been
> in my fairings since 1992-over 1000hrs-easy way to do it-TOM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
DALE-Its flexible-TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01(at)aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew, Look Out!)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
JEFF-Sorry its the best way to dampen the gear movement-TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01(at)aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew, Look Out!)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
You may reconsider the 2 part foam.
I seem to recall Jerry Springer using this method on his RV-6, only to
find corrosion on the gear legs after a few years.
FWIW
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of WFACT01(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
MICKEY-One better way works for ever is a (2) two part foam-made by
CONVENIENCE PRODUCTS-PN-U2-12----TEL 1-800-325-6180 --You do-not need
the wood,its been
in my fairings since 1992-over 1000hrs-easy way to do it-TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01(at)aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 IO-540 LYC (41 HRS TT TIME)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
JOHN-Did he two part epoxy the gear legs -we got six airplanes flying-one was
changed after 3 years for up dated wheel pants and was perfect-TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01(at)aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew, Look Out!)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
On the "A" models, does the wood stiffener go on the front of the gear leg or the
rear?
Tommy
6A, Wheel pants and fairings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
My nose wheel gets to bouncing while taxiing sometimes... I think
stiffener up there might do some good...
The mains are fine without I think...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
On the "A" models, does the wood stiffener go on the front of the gear leg
or the rear?
Tommy
6A, Wheel pants and fairings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
| Subject: | Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
Shirley,
I'm on my second -6A. the first had the stiffeners (2008 Hrs), the second
doesn't have them (375 Hrs). My opinion is that there isn't much difference
in the ground handling. Without stiffeners, there is a little bit more
bounce & maybe a little bit more tire wear......
Fred stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Time:
From: "Shirley Harding" < shirleyh(at)argo.net.au
>
Subject: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
shirleyh(at)argo.net.au >
With so many RV6's now flying, I'm wondering about people's
experiences with/without
the timber gear leg stiffeners shown on the plans. Vans seems a bit
uncommitted
about the benefits - what's the general opinion out there - is it
worth
the extra work?
Shirley Harding
RV6 QB
Contemplating gear leg fairings
Perth Western Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | AeroCarb fo Lycoming 0-320 |
Hi,
Is there anyone on the list that has used the Aerocarb on the Lycoming 0-320?
If so would you please tell us about it.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | NACA Ducts and RTV |
You might want to consider RTVing a SS screen on the face of the NACA, drill
holes, dimple-countersink and put dimpled nutplates (K1100-8) on a backing
strip so that the duct be removable for cleaning. That's what I did - my
ducts have a screen to block off creatures from entering the plane and are
screwed on. If any one wants pictures, be glad to send them off line.
Michle
Wings RV8
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James H Nelson
> Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 1:10 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA Ducts and RTV
>
>
> Matt,
> Use pro seal from the fuel tanks. It will never let go and its
> PAINTABLE unlike silicone
>
> Jim
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi folks,
I bought an inexpensive rivet cutter from Avery (I think). The first time I tried
to use it, it bit me (sharp edges on cheap stamped parts). I have some hand
arthritis and really had trouble cutting the rivet at all. Is there a better
alternative? Something with more mechanical advantage? What do you all use?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV8 Empennage
San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
In a message dated 3/27/05 5:49:46 PM Pacific Standard Time,
shirleyh(at)argo.net.au writes:
> < with/without the timber gear leg stiffeners shown on the plans. Vans seems a
> bit uncommitted about the benefits - what's the general opinion out there -
> is it worth he extra work? >>
Shirly: FWIW I did not put them on my RV-6 in spite of dire warnings from
several other RV owners and at least with my airplane I see no reason for them.
The only time I have noticed any gear leg jitter (or whatever you would call
it) was when I raised the tire pressure to 35 psi. As long as the pressure
is 30 psi or below there is no problem whatsoever. I suppose the issue is
different from airplane to airplane, which is probably why Van remains ambivalent
about the need for stiffeners. As for myself, I would not put them on unless
your experience shows a need for them after taxi/flight testing. As the
saying goes, just my $0.02 worth.
Harry Crosby
RV-6, 51 hours and down for the switch to detergent oil from mineral oil.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Michael,
The 2004-2005 issue of Aircraft Spruce catalog page 498 shows four different
rivet cutters, from p/n 12-00200 for $12.95 to a bench-type p/n 12-00262 for
$88.40. I doubt if any of the less expensive cutters have a mechanical
advantage over the ones you have, but they are probably more precise.
I don't remember cutting very many rivets in the entire project to date.
Terry
RV-8A
Finishing
I bought an inexpensive rivet cutter from Avery (I think). The first time I
tried to use it, it bit me (sharp edges on cheap stamped parts). I have
some hand arthritis and really had trouble cutting the rivet at all. Is
there a better alternative? Something with more mechanical advantage? What
do you all use?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
In a message dated 3/27/05 10:42:34 PM Pacific Standard Time,
kboatright1(at)comcast.net writes:
> <<, I balanced the wheelpants on my airplane before
> the first flight. Obviously that didn't prevent the shimmy on my airplane. >
> >
>
> Just another data point Shirly, but I since Kyle raised the issue I'll add
> to my previous comments that I did not balance my wheel pants either, and they
> are way tail heavy because of an overly thick mud wall I added in the aft
> section, and I still don't have any jitter or shimmy (maybe tail heavy is good
> where wheel pants are concerned). I have used my brakes pretty aggressively,
> but not to the point that I was concerned with going up on the nose. I do
> keep the stick well into my gut whenever I get on the brakes.
Harry Crosby
RV-6, 51 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
Orrrrr, just place a 6"x6" piece of ordinary plastic window screen material
(available at OSH or anywhere) over the exit end of the NACA vent, then
simply place/slide the vent tube over that and clamp. Done.
Chuck Weyant
Santa Maria, CA
RV9A 90 Hours!
----- Original Message -----
From: <owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: NACA Ducts and RTV
>
> You might want to consider RTVing a SS screen on the face of the NACA,
drill
> holes, dimple-countersink and put dimpled nutplates (K1100-8) on a backing
> strip so that the duct be removable for cleaning. That's what I did - my
> ducts have a screen to block off creatures from entering the plane and are
> screwed on. If any one wants pictures, be glad to send them off line.
>
> Michle
> Wings RV8
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James H Nelson
> > Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 1:10 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA Ducts and RTV
> >
> >
> > Matt,
> > Use pro seal from the fuel tanks. It will never let go and its
> > PAINTABLE unlike silicone
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg.Puckett(at)united.com |
| Subject: | Sikaflex and Van's powdercoat |
Although I was able to find quite a bit of achieved info for using
Sikaflex to attach the canopy to the frame, I could not find info about
whether the powdercoat on the frame needed to be removed.
For those of you that used this method, did you remove the powdercoat=3F
If not, how did you prep the surface=3F
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, CO
RV-8 80081
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | corrosion removal on wheels |
Anybody got a quick and easy method for removing those powdery looking spots on
my Matco wheels? I know brushing with steel brush is a no no. charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Nielsen" <marknielsen(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
> I glued the vents in my -7A with RTV, and I'm confident they'll stay
in. I
> have about 70 hours on the plane now. It is in the paint shop, so I
can't
> comment on how well the RTV holds paint, but there is so much area of
RTV that
>
> there is no way they are going to fall off!
>
Perhaps -- perhaps not.
I used RTV to attach my NACA vents. On one I used RTV plus a few
rivets, on the other RTV only. The one with RTV only fell off after
around 200 hours. I didn't have any proseal to fix it with, but a
friend did. I got everything prepared, flew to the friend's airport,
mixed a dab of proseal, glued and duct taped the vent in place, taped
over the outside to keep the air out for the flight home, and flew home.
After a few days of curing, I reconnected the hose to the vent. The
vent is still holding.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6, 954 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid GPS tracking works! |
I wonder if my GNS430 has the same option?
March 20, 2005 - March 28, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-qr