RV-Archive.digest.vol-qs
March 28, 2005 - April 11, 2005
Tom Barnes -6 96hrs
----- Original Message -----
| Subject: | Navaid GPS tracking works! |
>
> I guess I should feel dumb but I'm so tickled that my Navaid now tracks a
GPS
> course like it is glued to it. Thanks to Dan, John and Jeff and anyone
else
> who prompted me all I had to do was go to the Main Menu on my Garmin 195
and
> turn on the NMEA data output. So simple and yet so important, and not
> mentioned anywhere in the instructions.
>
> Man, this list is GREAT!
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6, 51 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
I don't know if he did cover the gear legs in epoxy.
I didn't realize you had covered your gear legs in epoxy either.
That would probably seal off the metal.
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of WFACT01(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
JOHN-Did he two part epoxy the gear legs -we got six airplanes
flying-one was
changed after 3 years for up dated wheel pants and was perfect-TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01(at)aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew, Look Out!)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sikaflex and Van's powdercoat |
I called Sika on that...
IF the poweder coating is properly applied and adhered to the frame, all
you need is scuffing the poweder coating thoroughly with fine grid sand
papaer scotch brite, etc.
gert
Greg.Puckett(at)united.com wrote:
>
>Although I was able to find quite a bit of achieved info for using
>Sikaflex to attach the canopy to the frame, I could not find info about
>whether the powdercoat on the frame needed to be removed.
>
>For those of you that used this method, did you remove the powdercoat=3F
>If not, how did you prep the surface=3F
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Greg Puckett
>Elizabeth, CO
>RV-8 80081
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: corrosion removal on wheels |
Try a tooth brush and Colgate tooth paste. Don't laugh
it works.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | First Flight Video... N174JL |
The 'First Flight Video' is finally here: go to www.jacklockamy.com Scroll down on left side under 'Table of Contents', 'Current Project', and click on 'FIRST FLIGHT VIDEO'.
Thanks again to Dan Checkoway for flying chase and his passenger Jay Hagwell of
Yuda Vision Productions for a really nice video!
This is my third aircraft project and definitely the most satisfying.
Enjoy!
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
-7A (#71103)
N174JL Flying... 11.1 hrs down... 13.9 to go!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners |
I had only primed and painted the gear legs, it was not epoxy paint.
The foam was two part sprayed in and it seemd to eat right through the
paint and primer
and attacked the gear legs causing them to rust. I am sure epoxy paint
would solve the problem.
Jerry
John Danielson wrote:
>
>I don't know if he did cover the gear legs in epoxy.
>I didn't realize you had covered your gear legs in epoxy either.
>That would probably seal off the metal.
>
>John L. Danielson
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of WFACT01(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
>
>
>JOHN-Did he two part epoxy the gear legs -we got six airplanes
>flying-one was
>changed after 3 years for up dated wheel pants and was perfect-TOM
>
>Tom Whelan
>Whelan Farms Airport
>President EAA Chapter 1097
>wfact01(at)aol.com
>249 Hard Hill Road North
>PO Box 426
>Bethlehem, CT 06751
>Tel: 203-266-5300
>Fax: 202-266-5140
>EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
>RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew, Look Out!)
>S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Van <rv7ator(at)yahoo.com> |
What's wrong with just grinding/belt sanding rivets to
the correct length if you seldom have to do it?
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: corrosion removal on wheels |
Hi Charlie,
Brushing with a stainless steel brush is allowed.
Properly done with the right medium, blasting is good.
Clean well, etch, Alodine and paint.
Jijm in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: corrosion removal on wheels
>
> Anybody got a quick and easy method for removing those powdery looking
> spots on my Matco wheels? I know brushing with steel brush is a no no.
> charlie heathco
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Cutting |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Van" <rv7ator(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rivet Cutting
>
> What's wrong with just grinding/belt sanding rivets to
> the correct length if you seldom have to do it?
>
A pair of $5.00 side cutters does an OK job if you don't want to spring for
the special rivet cutting tool.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Any chemists out there? RE: Alodine |
Alodine 1201 contains chromic acid, hydroflouric acid and potassium
ferricyanide, less than 1% of each according to the MSDS.
Do any or all of these chemicals break down readily into something harmless
in soil? Or am I going to create a federally listed hazardous waste site
by rinsing my parts off outside?
Richard Scott
9A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
Jeff,
Can you explain how one is to do this? I'm not sure I follow.
Marty in Brentwood TN
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wooden gear-leg stiffeners
I started with no stiffeners, and had some shimmy. I added the
stiffeners during the test-flight period, and that helped a little, but
I still got occasional shimmy, especially during winter (icy runways).
Recently I got around to balancing the wheel pants, as I had read
about. A local old-timer has been bugging me to do this for some time
and swears by it. Well, I did it and now I'm a believer. No shimmy at
all since balancing them.
I would start with nothing and fly it. If it shimmies, try adding one
or the other (i'd start with balancing the pants) and if required do
both. The wood stiffeners are not particularly hard to do, and
balancing the pants is a snap. One of these days I'll get around to
writing up a "how-to" for my website.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest 03/27/05 |
Speaking of NACA ducts......
Since they are some sort of plastic (at least the ones I got with Van's vent
kit are) that brings up the issue of painting. Obviously one cannot shoot
directly on the plastic or the vents will melt, right? So...what does one
do with the exposed plastic of these vents before painting? Spray them with
some kind of primer that doesn't contain nasty, plastic melting solvents?
What primer would that be? BTW, I drilled some holes and dimpled for #6
screws then put nutplates on my vents, should make install easy and
removable if necessary (doubt it unless they get hit with some hard object).
Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Wiring and finish work
-----------original message---------------------
From: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: NACA Ducts and RTV
Has anyone "glued" the NACA ducts (for the cockpit air vents) on a 6A....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts and RTV |
I used RTV carefully placed so that none of it squeezed out where it can
be seen (or painted). I also put 4 rivets in the thing, so I don't
think it's coming loose.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | NACA Ducts and RTV |
I am interested in the pictures.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
bobperk(at)bellsouth.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: NACA Ducts and RTV
You might want to consider RTVing a SS screen on the face of the NACA, drill
holes, dimple-countersink and put dimpled nutplates (K1100-8) on a backing
strip so that the duct be removable for cleaning. That's what I did - my
ducts have a screen to block off creatures from entering the plane and are
screwed on. If any one wants pictures, be glad to send them off line.
Michle
Wings RV8
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James H Nelson
> Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 1:10 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA Ducts and RTV
>
>
> Matt,
> Use pro seal from the fuel tanks. It will never let go and its
> PAINTABLE unlike silicone
>
> Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
I use a pair of needle nose pliers and the bench belt sander. Works great,
but be careful when you are finished and don't grab it out of the pliers
immediately.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of mlwynn(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Rivet Cutting
Hi folks,
I bought an inexpensive rivet cutter from Avery (I think). The first time I
tried to use it, it bit me (sharp edges on cheap stamped parts). I have
some hand arthritis and really had trouble cutting the rivet at all. Is
there a better alternative? Something with more mechanical advantage? What
do you all use?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV8 Empennage
San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Cutting |
Hi Michael,
I have been cutting 3/32nd inch and 1/8th inch rivets with a pair of
electrical technician's flush cutters with good success. They can be bought
at electrical suppliers and electronics stores. The electronics suppliers
usually have good quality on hand for a bit more money. They are stronger,
stay sharp, and last longer. I must have cut a thousand or so rivets by now
with mine, still sharp. When doing the wing spars (older slow build) I
ground the side of a pair of Sears standard side cutters on my belt sander
to convert them to flush cutters for the bigger 3/16th inch diameter rivets.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rivet Cutting
>
> I use a pair of needle nose pliers and the bench belt sander. Works
> great,
> but be careful when you are finished and don't grab it out of the pliers
> immediately.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
> RV9A N658RP Reserved
> If nothing changes
> Nothing changes
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of mlwynn(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Rivet Cutting
>
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I bought an inexpensive rivet cutter from Avery (I think). The first time
> I
> tried to use it, it bit me (sharp edges on cheap stamped parts). I have
> some hand arthritis and really had trouble cutting the rivet at all. Is
> there a better alternative? Something with more mechanical advantage?
> What
> do you all use?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
>
> RV8 Empennage
> San Ramon, CA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Any chemists out there? RE: Alodine |
Alodine is nasty stuff. I'd try find someone that takes hazardous
waste, and dispose of it there. You can also find a shop that
does chromate conversions for you.
Alodine is only sold to businesses that have certified disposal
methods where I live (Switzerland) so I went with a non-toxic
system called PreKote (http://www.pantheonchemical.com/PreKote.htm).
I have no idea if it is as good, better, or worse than the
acid etch/alodine process, but the stuff I've painted on top
of it has stuck well. Ask me again in 20 years if it still works
ok.
Mickey
> Alodine 1201 contains chromic acid, hydroflouric acid and potassium
> ferricyanide, less than 1% of each according to the MSDS.
>
> Do any or all of these chemicals break down readily into something harmless
> in soil? Or am I going to create a federally listed hazardous waste site
> by rinsing my parts off outside?
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Speaking of NACA ducts, here is another way they may be damaged. My friend
(honest, this time it wasn't me) had one damaged by hanging a trouble light
against it from the inside. It melted and made a mess.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In the paint shop -- all primered gray)
In a message dated 3/29/05 4:38:12 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
Speaking of NACA ducts......
Since they are some sort of plastic (at least the ones I got with Van's vent
kit are) that brings up the issue of painting. Obviously one cannot shoot
directly on the plastic or the vents will melt, right? So...what does one
do with the exposed plastic of these vents before painting? Spray them with
some kind of primer that doesn't contain nasty, plastic melting solvents?
What primer would that be? BTW, I drilled some holes and dimpled for #6
screws then put nutplates on my vents, should make install easy and
removable if necessary (doubt it unless they get hit with some hard object).
Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Wiring and finish work
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Balance pants |
The Grumman AA1C Lynx I used to have had the wheel pants balanced out of the
factory, I assume. On my -7A, the bracket bolts work loose, or the spacers
wear down, or something -- resulting in brake chatter, and the wheel pants
rocking a little around the axle. I'm convinced that balancing the wheel pants
will help. I operate almost exclusively off of grass, and the pants take
quite a beating.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In the paint shop)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions |
Evan,
We received the drawing and instructions today.
Thanks for sending the info, it will be a great help to "know" what we're
doing!
Let us know if we can help you in any way.
Eric & Andy.
RV-8A in NC
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2005 07:13:04 -0800
Send me your address Eric....I believe I have an extra set of drawings for
this. I have installed a ton of these now and its no big deal....just takes
time.
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
>
> We're building a RV-8 fuel tank with capacitance fuel senders.
>
> The capacitance sensor kit is second hand and did not come with
> instructions.
>
> Could some tell us were to go to get the instruction or fax/scan them to
us?
>
> Thanks
> ERic-
> RV-8 wings/tanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Kritzman <rv8_flyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroCarb fo Lycoming 0-320 |
Vic,
A local Long-EZ builder tried to put one on his O-290 and had nothing but trouble.
He could not get it to idle smooth and when he would pull the power back
while flying the vacuum would make the slide stick. After about 30 minutes of
flying and several hour of ground runs he pulled it off and rebuilt his old carb.
BTW Aerocarb refused to refund any money, so he as a very expensive paper
weight on his desk.
If you decide to go ahead with this be sure to get the names of someone who is
currently flying one of these and contact them to get there opinion on how to
set it up.
Alan Kritzman
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8 N8EM
Vic Jacko wrote:
Hi,
Is there anyone on the list that has used the Aerocarb on the Lycoming 0-320? If
so would you please tell us about it.
Vic
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Cutting |
| From: | sjhdcl(at)kingston.net |
> From: mlwynn(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Rivet Cutting
>
I have built 3 RVs (almost #3) now and I highly recommend the following.
Cutting rivets to the size you need is fine if you only require a few
rivets. Every rivet cutter I've tried works ok for 3/32" rivets but it
does still leave the end at a slight angle and small burrs around the
edges. 1/8" rivets are usually a 'grunt' to cut and the burrs and angle
are often more pronounced. If they work for you great, but I do not use a
rivet cutter any more.
My suggestion is to get a nice selection of rivet sizes. Get some 5.5,
6.5 length rivets and keep them for instances where the plans calls for a
-5 rivet and it just isn't long enough and a -6 is too long. Grab a 5.5
and you done. Not only that but the end of the rivet is perfectly formed
and no grinding or cutting that can actually cause hardening of the rivet.
I have a contact of a company that I buy my rivet from. They have
absolutely any size you want in 426, 470, 'opps' rivet and many others.
My rivet collection goes from -3 to 14.5 in .5 increments. Makes rivets
selection a joy an no compromises. Cost is cheap. Rivets are very
inexpensive and I bet a size rivet selection will cost you less then the
best rivet cutter can find. Even the best aircraft supply store will not
stock a selection of rivets like this.
If you want the name of the company I'll pass it on.
Steve Hurlbut
RV7A
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I bought an inexpensive rivet cutter from Avery (I think). The first time
> I tried
> to use it, it bit me (sharp edges on cheap stamped parts). I have some
> hand
> arthritis and really had trouble cutting the rivet at all. Is there a
> better
> alternative? Something with more mechanical advantage? What do you all
> use?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
>
> RV8 Empennage
> San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | For Sale: turn and bank |
I have a 2 1/4 " RC ALLEN electric turn and bank model A1050-2 for sale,
includes cannon plug connector.
Still under factory warranty. $450.00. Used for 75hrs, works great. If
interrested, contact me off list via email or phone.
Gary Gunn
602-421-6931
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Cutting |
Bob Perkinson wrote:
>
> I use a pair of needle nose pliers and the bench belt sander. Works great,
> but be careful when you are finished and don't grab it out of the pliers
> immediately.
It's amazing how big a hole a tiny rivet can burn in your hand! :-)
There was another post about using a belt sander or grinder to shorten
rivets. There is a possibility that the heat of grinding the rivet
*might* harden the rivet enough to cause the shop head to crack.
I don't know if this is a problem that will occur very often, but a
careful look at a few driven rivets that were shortened with the
grinder/sander might be a good idea just to make sure the rivets
weren't compromised.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Custom seats... |
Has anyone tried the Classic Aero - "RV-8 Standard Interior Kit" w/
the "chromoly frame that is fully enclosed by the seat cover like an
automotive seat"?
If you've used these, how did they fit / work out?
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!) |
I'm wondering the same thing. The Navaid people said yes,
but I have yet to get behind the panel to try and figure out
how to hook things together. I will report anything as I
find it out, would appreciate advice if anyone else knows
how best to do it.
Scott Keadle
RV8 N844RF
14A Lake Norman, NC
I wonder if my GNS430 has the same option?
Tom Barnes -6 96hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!) |
Tom,
Below is the email I got back from my inquiry to Navaid.
Maybe you can understand it already. I'm gonna have some
studying to do first. Hope this helps.
Scott Keadle
RV8 N844RF
14A Lake Norman, NC
My online reqading of the Pilot's Guide for the Garmin 430
indicates that it
can drive an external CDI. I haven't seen the pinouts,
though. Hook up the
CDI feeds (+Left and +Right) to pins three (3) and six (6)
of the 12-pin
Moles connector at the back of the AP-1 head. These pins are
the tracking
inputs for the AP-1. Note that if you use the internal
graphic CDI feature
of the 430, it will not drive the AP-1. If you don't have
all the
documentation for the 430, talk to the guy who sold you the
plane. Has it
worked for him?
Horace Brock
for Navaid Devices
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Balancing Wheelpants- website update |
I finally got around to putting some pictures of the wheel balancing
process up on my website, for those who have been asking.
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/wheel%20pants.htm
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)ashcreekwireless.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sikaflex and Van's powdercoat |
I just finished using Sikaflex to attach my canopy to the frame. The only hole
in the canopy is the latch handle. I talked to Sika about it and also read available
info on the list to come up with the procedure I used...
One thing I did that I'd do differently...prior to using the adhesive, I fit the
side skirts to the frame and made the final cuts to the canopy sides where it
meets the side skirts. When I went to fit the side skirts, one was a little
shy of coming all the way down past the canopy rail. I'll have to re-do it.
Other than that (which is really not related to using adhesive)...It seems to
have worked great...
I basically used Jim Cone's advice on canopy fitting...including cutting off the
protrusion of the tube where the canopy latch handle fits. Once this is cut,
you will see there really is only one way that the frame will fit into the canopy...it
just sort of falls into place. It would be nice to have some help
to hold it there precisely while you mark the hole for the canopy latch handle
to pass through.
Before getting to the adhesive part, do your canopy fitting using rubber garden
hose washers between the canopy and frame as needed so the canopy is fitted while
maintaining the clearance for the adhesive bead. Placement of these washers
will vary...I used a series of marks on the plastic canopy coating to locate
the placement of these washers and experimented until the placement of the
washers gave me the best fit. In most cases, the clamps go where the washers
are. Just be sure not to put adhesive where the washers are, so you can go back
and fill in that area with adhesive after the first adhesive is set.
Here is what I did:
1. Tape frame and plexiglass with electrician's tape to isolate area that will
receive adhesive.
2. Scuff plexiglass and frame where you're going to apply primer, w/80 grit
paper.
3. Remove the dust with a tack cloth
4. Apply Sika 226 cleaner to plexi and frame using lint free cloth
5. Wait 10-15 minutes
6. Apply Sika Pimer 209 to frame and canopy using a soft brush. This coat
will show to the outside, so make it uniform. Let dry at least 20 min, but not
over 2 hrs.
7. Cut dispensing tube of Sikaflex 295UV adhesive to dispense a triangular
bead (look for the outline to cut...I chose the first "size" of the three marked
diameters)
8. Apply Sikaflex adhesive to frame - it skins over in 5 minutes and you have
about 30 minutes of working time to do your placement and adjustments.
9. Clamp the canopy into position on the frame with the rubber hose washers
positioned where you had them during the fitting process.
10. Use aluminum scraps clamped to the sides of the canopy frame to align the
sides of the canopy correctly while the adhesive sets. The canopy skirt assembly
will then pull these in nicely after everything is set.
I will use the Sika adhesive to attach the windscreen and rear canopy skirts as
well and will send an update when that's done...
Thanks to everyone on the list who helped...
Bob
RV7A - wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroCarb for Lycoming 0-320 |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Kritzman" <rv8_flyer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AeroCarb fo Lycoming 0-320
>
> Vic,
> A local Long-EZ builder tried to put one on his O-290 and had nothing but
> trouble. He could not get it to idle smooth and when he would pull the
> power back while flying the vacuum would make the slide stick. After
> about 30 minutes of flying and several hour of ground runs he pulled it
> off and rebuilt his old carb. BTW Aerocarb refused to refund any money,
> so he as a very expensive paper weight on his desk.
>
> If you decide to go ahead with this be sure to get the names of someone
> who is currently flying one of these and contact them to get there opinion
> on how to set it up.
>
> Alan Kritzman
> Cedar Rapids, IA
> RV-8 N8EM
>
> Vic Jacko wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Is there anyone on the list that has used the Aerocarb on the Lycoming
> 0-320? If so would you please tell us about it.
>
> Vic
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | 7A - lower cowl exit air attach brackets |
Applies to 7A builders only. Sorry for the double post.
The lower cowl exit air attach brackets specify attaching the U-620B
to the lower weldment gusset on the engine mount gear socket by
drilling two holes in the gusset and bolting the 620 to it.
Unfortunately, the plans that Vans provides are outdated and were
probably drawn for RV6 installations, not sure.
http://www.rv7-a.com/Plans/45%20cowling%20installation%20rv-7.pdf
The problem is that the gusset is so small that drilling two
holes in it (#12) is next to impossible. Getting washers and
nuts behind the gusset will be an acrobatic act or near
impossible, plus, I don't really want to drill any holes in
the gussets, I would like to keep my nosegear assembly as strong
as possible.
I called Vans and Tom wasn't aware of any changes in the gear
weldment but was going to check.
I suggested that I could use Adel clamps on the engine mount
tubes and hold it in place that way and he agreed this would
be satisfactory and in fact might add some shock absorbing too.
I just wanted to know if there was a better way. Am I the
only one that has run into this issue?
Thanks,
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroCarb for Lycoming 0-320 |
I usually don't try to bash people on the list but... At one time I was a
Sonex builder and I have had, and several of my friends who are Sonex
builders have had many problems with these people... A buddy of mine has
posted some correspondence he had with them on his web site... Remember he
is a Sonex builder and has spent MANY THOUSANDS of dollars with them...
http://sonex260.wheelsup.org/banned.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AeroCarb for Lycoming 0-320
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Kritzman" <rv8_flyer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: AeroCarb fo Lycoming 0-320
>
> Vic,
> A local Long-EZ builder tried to put one on his O-290 and had nothing but
> trouble. He could not get it to idle smooth and when he would pull the
> power back while flying the vacuum would make the slide stick. After
> about 30 minutes of flying and several hour of ground runs he pulled it
> off and rebuilt his old carb. BTW Aerocarb refused to refund any money,
> so he as a very expensive paper weight on his desk.
>
> If you decide to go ahead with this be sure to get the names of someone
> who is currently flying one of these and contact them to get there opinion
> on how to set it up.
>
> Alan Kritzman
> Cedar Rapids, IA
> RV-8 N8EM
>
> Vic Jacko wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Is there anyone on the list that has used the Aerocarb on the Lycoming
> 0-320? If so would you please tell us about it.
>
> Vic
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap Brace Dimpling |
| From: | "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org> |
> I would do just that, we QB builders us the MS-142 (I think) "pop" rivets.
> Those rivets can't be seen once the flap is mounted anyway so no one will
> know you "cheated".The idea of drilling out rivets almost always seems more
> painful than it turns out to be. I've wasted weeks agonizing over drilling
> out a few rivets, thinking of alternatives etc when 30 minutes of work and
> the problem would have been solved.
>
> Neil McLeod
> 7 QB N748M Finishing
I called Van's, talked to Ken, and he said the 'best' thing to do would be to
just drill out the flap brace and then put it back on with MSP-42's. I hate
to do that, since now my wings will look like QB wings. ;-) You're right
though, no one will ever see it. I'll just chalk this one up to a lesson
learned and drill 'em out.
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings almost done...
http://rv.jpainter.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Any Chemists Out There? RE: Alodine |
| From: | "Bruce Anthony" <bruce.anthony(at)holidaycompanies.com> |
Richard,
The general answer to your question is: Yes. While mother nature is very forgiving
of even the most profound insults, Alodine's components are very toxic to
every living thing we hold dear. This is what will likely happen to the Alodine
you wash into the soil. The components will breakdown into lower toxic components.
However, the grass will probably die, and the soil will be sterilized.
The soil will be of such low pH that even tomatos won't grow. This won't
happen the first time necessarily, but the effects are accumulative. Sometime
after you stop (perhaps years), the ground will repair itself and life will
go on.
Now, if you refer to the disposal information on the MSDS sheet, you will see that
this material is a hazardous waste when disposed. So the very act of washing
it into the ground is a violation of a number of environmental regulations.
If you're not caught, well, you got away with it. If a neighbor turns you
in, expect a good fine, the cost of cleanup (possibly thousands of dollars),
and maybe a short stay in jail. The court system and environmental regulators
are usually more friendly to private citizens than companies, but who knows for
sure until it happens.
So there is the long and short of it. Most publicly owned treatment plants are
capable of treating small quantities of this stuff (the dilution effect is huge),
so you might consider rinsing the parts off in a sink, shower or bath (use
the ventilation fan, gloves and a mask). The secret is to use as little as
possible during the treatment process. Or find a different treatment. It would
be really nice if someone came up with a more environmentally friendly alternative
to this stuff.
Bruce Anthony
RV-9A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Any chemists out there? RE: Alodine |
>
>Alodine 1201 contains chromic acid, hydroflouric acid and potassium
>ferricyanide, less than 1% of each according to the MSDS.
>
>Do any or all of these chemicals break down readily into something harmless
>in soil? Or am I going to create a federally listed hazardous waste site
>by rinsing my parts off outside?
Have you seen the movie Erin Brockovich? This was all about
chromate pollution. Chromates like the ones in Alodine are REALLY nasty
stuff. Chromates cause cancer in even very tiny amounts.
You want to be very careful not to get any Alodine on you or
inhale the dust as you mix it. If you put any down the drain, you are
breaking Federal and local laws. If you put a significant amount down the
drain, they will detect it at the sewage treatment plant and will likely
trace it back to you. They test regularly and the level cannot exceed 0.2
parts per billion.
It would not take much Alodine down the drain to kick the chromate
"meter" offscale at the treament plant. Washing your hands and a few drops
off your clothes would be OK, but washing off Alodined parts in the sink
would be risking a hefty fine.
>Richard Scott
>9A Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!) |
Thanks for the info Scott,
Just for the record, I had the (two yellow) wires hooked from the CDI to the
Navaid and found the unit would not hold track, so I swapped the wires.
This caused a more drastic steer away from the course line. Very little
steer when ON the line, but it magnified as the distance (from the course
line) increased.
I will see if I can disable the CDI feature on the GNS430 and then retry.
Of course I'll have to swap the wires again. Maybe I'll put in a switch
just for this purpose.
Your statement about "using" the CDI feature of the 430 makes me wonder if
that means - using it while trying to track a course or does it mean having
it available to "use", but not actively in use. In other words, disable the
feature?
Thanks,
Tom Barnes
----- Original Message -----
From: "with HTTP/1.1" <scott@keadle.com>
Subject: RV-List: GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!)
>
> Tom,
>
> Below is the email I got back from my inquiry to Navaid.
> Maybe you can understand it already. I'm gonna have some
> studying to do first. Hope this helps.
>
> Scott Keadle
> RV8 N844RF
> 14A Lake Norman, NC
>
>
> My online reqading of the Pilot's Guide for the Garmin 430
> indicates that it
> can drive an external CDI. I haven't seen the pinouts,
> though. Hook up the
> CDI feeds (+Left and +Right) to pins three (3) and six (6)
> of the 12-pin
> Moles connector at the back of the AP-1 head. These pins are
> the tracking
> inputs for the AP-1. Note that if you use the internal
> graphic CDI feature
> of the 430, it will not drive the AP-1. If you don't have
> all the
> documentation for the 430, talk to the guy who sold you the
> plane. Has it
> worked for him?
>
> Horace Brock
> for Navaid Devices
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any chemists out there? RE: Alodine |
It might be useful to take a look at the MSDS for this product:
http://www.setonresourcecenter.com/msds/docs/wcd00038/wcd038aa.htm
The MSDS is available on-line for any product you might use, and doing a
little research beforehand might protect both you and the planet...
This RV list is the greatest thing since sliced bread, but all of the "info"
posted should be taken with a grain of salt. Gather data and come to your
own conclusion. Don't blindly follow advice without knowing the source. I
try to post links if possible rather then just make unsubstantiated
statements. That said, the MSDS states that there is no cancer risk for
this product. My bottle of Alodine 1201 says there might be a risk and
California states that there is one...
Use caution, be safe. What you don't know can hurt you.
David Burton
BioMedical Engineer,
University of Washington Medical Center
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Part needed- Van's spinner bulkhead |
I'm in desperate need of a Van's S-605 front spinner bulkhead, ASAP. My
new prop from Craig Catto is ready to be shipped, but Van's is back
ordered on the spinner bulkhead. In order to get my prop and spinner
from him in time for the Sun n Fun trip, I need to get my hands on one
and get it to Craig by Friday. Anybody out there have one laying around
or one they won't need for a while and be willing to part with? I would
need it drop shipped to Craig in CA, I can get you the shipping info.
Of course I'll reimburse you for the replacement, shipping costs as well
as your trouble.
If you have one, and can promise to get it in the mail (Express Mail)
tomorrow, please contact me. I won't be near email the rest of the
night but you can get me on my cell phone 414.915.9173. You will have
my eternal gratitude.
Thanks
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Becker" <ctbecker(at)atlanticbb.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Brace Dimpling |
I just made the same mistake and the callout for the blind rivets for the QB
asks for a CR3212 4-6 which is a flush head cherry max. Any thoughts as to
why a flush head is requested?
Charlie Becker
N464CB(r) RV8A
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jamie Painter
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap Brace Dimpling
> I would do just that, we QB builders us the MS-142 (I think) "pop" rivets.
> Those rivets can't be seen once the flap is mounted anyway so no one will
> know you "cheated".The idea of drilling out rivets almost always seems
more
> painful than it turns out to be. I've wasted weeks agonizing over drilling
> out a few rivets, thinking of alternatives etc when 30 minutes of work and
> the problem would have been solved.
>
> Neil McLeod
> 7 QB N748M Finishing
I called Van's, talked to Ken, and he said the 'best' thing to do would be
to
just drill out the flap brace and then put it back on with MSP-42's. I hate
to do that, since now my wings will look like QB wings. ;-) You're right
though, no one will ever see it. I'll just chalk this one up to a lesson
learned and drill 'em out.
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings almost done...
http://rv.jpainter.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
I used a 2" scotch brite disk on a die-grinder and I've used a file, holding
the rivet in a needle nose pliers. Also, I've been known to shorten the
rivet by just tapping on the end with a hammer to flatten them up and fit
the hole really well. Just hold the rivet, machine end down on the anvil
portion of your vise and tap very squarely on the shop end to do this.
Doesn't take much to fatten 'em up. Make setting them easy too.
Marty in Brentwood TN
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rivet Cutting
I use a pair of needle nose pliers and the bench belt sander. Works great,
but be careful when you are finished and don't grab it out of the pliers
immediately.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of mlwynn(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Rivet Cutting
Hi folks,
I bought an inexpensive rivet cutter from Avery (I think). The first time I
tried to use it, it bit me (sharp edges on cheap stamped parts). I have
some hand arthritis and really had trouble cutting the rivet at all. Is
there a better alternative? Something with more mechanical advantage? What
do you all use?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV8 Empennage
San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Brace Dimpling |
If you don't use flush head rivets there can be a clearence problem when
the flap rotates. I believe it is about an 1/8 in. between the flap and
seals on my RV6-A.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Becker" <ctbecker(at)atlanticbb.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap Brace Dimpling
>
> I just made the same mistake and the callout for the blind rivets for the
> QB
> asks for a CR3212 4-6 which is a flush head cherry max. Any thoughts as
> to
> why a flush head is requested?
>
> Charlie Becker
> N464CB(r) RV8A
> Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jamie Painter
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap Brace Dimpling
>
>
>> I would do just that, we QB builders us the MS-142 (I think) "pop"
>> rivets.
>> Those rivets can't be seen once the flap is mounted anyway so no one will
>> know you "cheated".The idea of drilling out rivets almost always seems
> more
>> painful than it turns out to be. I've wasted weeks agonizing over
>> drilling
>> out a few rivets, thinking of alternatives etc when 30 minutes of work
>> and
>> the problem would have been solved.
>>
>> Neil McLeod
>> 7 QB N748M Finishing
>
> I called Van's, talked to Ken, and he said the 'best' thing to do would be
> to
> just drill out the flap brace and then put it back on with MSP-42's. I
> hate
> to do that, since now my wings will look like QB wings. ;-) You're right
> though, no one will ever see it. I'll just chalk this one up to a lesson
> learned and drill 'em out.
>
> --
> Jamie D. Painter
> RV-7A wings almost done...
> http://rv.jpainter.org
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
| Subject: | Wheel Pant Options |
My RV-8 is coming out of paint and I am trying to arrange the final inspection.
Has anyone used or aware of a source for "Wheel Spats". Maule put them on every
Maule for years and everyone took them off and threw them away. Now I want
to try a set because I have 6" wheels on the 8 and can't find any. They may be
a good option for rougher use.
81938
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Material cut sketch |
I seem to remember that Vans had a sketch, drawing or something that showed
how to cut the various pieces out of stock material so that you could get
all the parts from the material supplied. I can't find it or don't have one
for my RV6 non-prepunched wing kit.
It has been obvious up to this point how to make the cuts. But now I need
to cut the four little spacers for the aileron bell cranks out of a 16"
square sheet of 0.063" stock and I don't have a clue. I assume I can get
away with ripping a piece off one side of it, but I'll wait till I know for
sure...
If anyone has the answer I'd appreciate it. If not I'll call Vans tomorrow.
Thanks as always!
Dave,
RV6, near Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Van <rv7ator(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Cutting |
Sure Steve,
I'd really like to know the supplier that you get your rivets from.
Thanks,
Ed -7
waiting on QB wings and fuse
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!) |
Tom,
I use the CDI out feature of our KMD 150 to drive out Navaid. It works.
It will "hunt" though for a while. What I find works best is to "re-center"
the CDI and basically get as close to on course as you can and then engage
the AP to track.
That is, line things up if you can and let it stabilized.
There are some sensitivity settings that you might want to check on for the
Navaid (if you haven't already). I am assuming that the not holding track
was that it was swinging from side to side (overshoot).
Does the Garmin show how far you are "off-course"?
James
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
| server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Barnes
| Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 6:33 PM
| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: Re: RV-List: GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!)
|
|
| Thanks for the info Scott,
| Just for the record, I had the (two yellow) wires hooked from the CDI to
| the
| Navaid and found the unit would not hold track, so I swapped the wires.
| This caused a more drastic steer away from the course line. Very little
{SNIP}
|
| Your statement about "using" the CDI feature of the 430 makes me wonder
| if
| that means - using it while trying to track a course or does it mean
| having
| it available to "use", but not actively in use. In other words, disable
| the
| feature?
|
| Thanks,
| Tom Barnes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Part needed- Van's spinner bulkhead |
Thanks to all who responded. I got quite a few calls quickly. In fact
I had the part arranged for within 30 minutes of posting. This list is
great.
Jeff
do no archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Weight reduction |
Jim,
Have you considered waiting until Van's finishes their LSA effort?
I don't know how fast you can make the mod's you mention or what is involved
in getting it "approved" but it may in the end be faster and cheaper to see
what they come up with.
Not trying to delay the dream, just point out a potentially different, but
at least as effective route to get there.
James
{SNIP}
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Weight reduction now LSA |
In a message dated 3/30/05 8:41:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Further, I wasn't aware that vans was coming out with a LSA class of plane.
>
> Does anyone have any links?
>
Go to Vansaicraft.com and then "Whats New"
Not much there just a little tease :)
Low Wing, 2 place side by side, Rotax 912 80 to 100hp
Van needs to loose the Rotax Idea and at least use a Jabaru
if not a small Cont or Lyco.
RV-4
RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe)
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight reduction |
On Wed Mar 30 08:39:25 2005, Kevin Williams wrote :
>[ ... snip ... ]
>Further, I wasn't aware that vans was coming out with a LSA class of plane.
>Does anyone have any links?
>[ ... snip ... ]
Look at :
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/what-new.htm
... the third section on the page. Interesting!
-- Dwight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 7A - lower cowl exit air attach brackets |
Walter,
You're right it is tight in that area. I think I used 5 minute epoxy to
hold the washers and nuts in place. You can put short screws or bolts with
washers (too short to engage the nylon) in from the bottom with no U-620B piece
in there, and let the epoxy set up. Then remove the bolts and install the
U-620B. It never has to be taken off again.
Don't worry about weakening the mount, it has lots of other gussets and
welds in that area. I doubt seriously if those 2 small holes will put it over
the edge.
Hope this helps.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying -- now in the paint shop)
hopperdhh at aol.com
In a message dated 3/29/05 12:14:04 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
walter(at)tondu.com writes:
Applies to 7A builders only. Sorry for the double post.
The lower cowl exit air attach brackets specify attaching the U-620B
to the lower weldment gusset on the engine mount gear socket by
drilling two holes in the gusset and bolting the 620 to it.
Unfortunately, the plans that Vans provides are outdated and were
probably drawn for RV6 installations, not sure.
http://www.rv7-a.com/Plans/45%20cowling%20installation%20rv-7.pdf
The problem is that the gusset is so small that drilling two
holes in it (#12) is next to impossible. Getting washers and
nuts behind the gusset will be an acrobatic act or near
impossible, plus, I don't really want to drill any holes in
the gussets, I would like to keep my nosegear assembly as strong
as possible.
I called Vans and Tom wasn't aware of any changes in the gear
weldment but was going to check.
I suggested that I could use Adel clamps on the engine mount
tubes and hold it in place that way and he agreed this would
be satisfactory and in fact might add some shock absorbing too.
I just wanted to know if there was a better way. Am I the
only one that has run into this issue?
Thanks,
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight reduction |
There it is!....That's what I would be doing! Sell the RV7, buy a piper cub
and bank the extra money until the new Vans LSA is available. The value of
the Cub is consistently climbing so you may even make a few bucks on it in
the couple of years you need it. There is really no good reason to try to
slow down and lighten your RV7.....if nothing else you will likely destroy
its value.
Cheers..
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Weight reduction
>
> Jim,
>
> Have you considered waiting until Van's finishes their LSA effort?
>
> I don't know how fast you can make the mod's you mention or what is
involved
> in getting it "approved" but it may in the end be faster and cheaper to
see
> what they come up with.
>
> Not trying to delay the dream, just point out a potentially different, but
> at least as effective route to get there.
>
> James
>
>
> {SNIP}
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions |
Happy to help Eric. If you have any fuel tank questions, feel free to
contact me anytime. I have built hundreds of them and I can likely help you
with any problems that may arise. Sealing some RV 10 tanks today....big job,
lots of goo.
cheers....
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
>
> Evan,
>
> We received the drawing and instructions today.
> Thanks for sending the info, it will be a great help to "know" what we're
> doing!
> Let us know if we can help you in any way.
>
> Eric & Andy.
> RV-8A in NC
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
> Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2005 07:13:04 -0800
>
>
>
> Send me your address Eric....I believe I have an extra set of drawings for
> this. I have installed a ton of these now and its no big deal....just
takes
> time.
>
> Evan Johnson
> www.evansaviationproducts.com
> (530)247-0375
> (530)351-1776 cell
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
>
>
> >
> > We're building a RV-8 fuel tank with capacitance fuel senders.
> >
> > The capacitance sensor kit is second hand and did not come with
> > instructions.
> >
> > Could some tell us were to go to get the instruction or fax/scan them
to
> us?
> >
> > Thanks
> > ERic-
> > RV-8 wings/tanks
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions |
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
>Happy to help Eric. If you have any fuel tank questions, feel free to
>contact me anytime. I have built hundreds of them and I can likely help you
>with any problems that may arise. Sealing some RV 10 tanks today....big job,
>lots of goo.
>cheers....
>Evan Johnson
>www.evansaviationproducts.com
>(530)247-0375
>(530)351-1776 cell
>
>
How do you reccomend sealing the round plate on the end? I used fuel
lube on the cork gasket and prosealed around the edge but I do not think
it is going to be a good seal. I am thinking about removeing it cleaning
it up and just prosealing the cover in place with out the cork.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Brown" <nightmare(at)adelphia.net> |
Listers, I am updating my panel and have some items that I will be putting on
E-bay soon. I thought I would give you guys a chance first. If anybody is interested,
let me know.
SIZE MAKE Description
YEAR
3 1/8 Bendix Airspeed 240MPH
3 1/8 RC Allen Horizon Indicator Mod RCA22-7
2002
3 1/8 Mitchell Aircraft Recording Manual Tach 327 on meter TSO'ed
3 1/8 United Instruments Alt 20K
1981
3 1/8 Cessna DG
3 1/8 United Instruments VSI 0-4000 Type III
1995
3 1/8 Navaid AP-1 no servo
2 1/4 UMA Manufold Pressure Mechanical 10-35 inhg
2 1/4 UMA Fuel Pressure Mechanical 0-10 psi
2 1/4 UMA Suction Mechanical 1-10 in Mercury
2 1/4 Isspro (2) Fuel gauges
2 1/4 Westach Voltmeter 0-16V
2 1/4 KS Avionis Mixture Mizer EGT Monitor
2 1/4 Aerospace Logic EGT fro 4 cy EGT-100-4
New
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | Capacitance Fuel sender instructions |
I used just fuel lube without any problems. Easy to remove the sending
unit if you need to.
John L. Danielson
RV-6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
>Happy to help Eric. If you have any fuel tank questions, feel free to
>contact me anytime. I have built hundreds of them and I can likely help
you
>with any problems that may arise. Sealing some RV 10 tanks today....big
job,
>lots of goo.
>cheers....
>Evan Johnson
>www.evansaviationproducts.com
>(530)247-0375
>(530)351-1776 cell
>
>
How do you reccomend sealing the round plate on the end? I used fuel
lube on the cork gasket and prosealed around the edge but I do not think
it is going to be a good seal. I am thinking about removeing it cleaning
it up and just prosealing the cover in place with out the cork.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight reduction |
This is half right. The EXPERIMENTAL placard needs to be in place even
in a single place. The "This aircraft is amatuer built...blah blah"
placard is not needed for a single place.
Jeff Point
>nor do you need the little placard on the dash warning passengers
>this is an experimental! You don't even need the word "experimental" on the
>airplane another gram of weight saved.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gould, Richard AE1 NAVTESTWINGPAC 561000E" <richard.j.gould(at)navy.mil> |
Ed,
I have a Vertex-Standard (formerly Yaesu) VXA-200 and I love it. I can't say that
I use it everyday, but I have certainly used it enough to get to know it well.
LIKES:
Sturdy metal construction (tough little sucker)
Lighted Keyboard
Able to display frequency OR alphanumeric (CMA ATIS, JOSHUA APP, etc)
Jacks for headset
Altimeter/Barometer/Temperature Sensor
MANY Pre-Programmed frequencies
VOR Indicator
DISLIKES:
Not terribly intuitive, but manageable (just takes practice)
Doesn't inflate into a liferaft
Rick Gould
RV-4 Whidbey Island, WA
FLY NAVY!
__I__
--O--O--( )--O--X--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXPERIMENTAL Signage/ WAS: Weight reduction |
Look at AC20-27F paragraph 9.
John D. Heath
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Weight reduction
>
> This is half right. The EXPERIMENTAL placard needs to be in place even
> in a single place. The "This aircraft is amatuer built...blah blah"
> placard is not needed for a single place.
>
> Jeff Point
>
>>nor do you need the little placard on the dash warning passengers
>>this is an experimental! You don't even need the word "experimental" on
>>the
>>airplane another gram of weight saved.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight reduction |
>
>Jim, I played the part of Don Quixote in the musical Man of La Mancha and I
>encourage you to pursue your dream of the super light Van,s!
>
>
>Just a few points:
>
>
>If you really get the weight down the stall speed will fall with the weight
>reduction. If you were to build the RV-9 which has the longer wing and put
>a 115 horse 914 Rotax in it you may achieve your weight goal. An have an
>airplane which will stall "just right" The VW engine also sounds good.
>
> How to balance the plane is the next issue.
>
>How about sweeping the wings back as far as practical which will move the
>center of effect lift to the rear. Mount the battery in the rear. Do not
>use strobes or nav lights and use minimum radios and instruments. I was
>shocked to see the RV-10 that Van flew into New Braunfels, TX did not have
>nav lights or strobes.
>
>If you make it a one passenger airplane then you do not need a ELT as I
>remember nor do you need the little placard on the dash warning passengers
>this is an experimental! You don't even need the word "experimental" on the
>airplane another gram of weight saved.
>
>"This is my quest to follow that star no matter how hopeless no matter how
>far" "to fight for the right to keep flying"
>
>Good luck with your quest. Now if I could only find my horse, sword and
>Dulcinea.
>
>Vic
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <j1j2h3(at)juno.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Weight reduction
>
>
>>
>> "To dream the impossible dream, to fight the unbeatable foe, to bear with
>> unbearable sorrow, to run where the brave dare not go... "
>>
>> The FAA is forcing me to go to Light Sport Aircraft by making it
>> impossibly expensive to maintain my medical. Among many other things,
>> they are requiring that I get a test of my pacemaker every 4 weeks (my
>> doctor says once every 6 months is adequate). This costs about $330 and
>> there is no way my insurance will pay for it that often. Then I will
>> need a stress test with ECG and eye evaluation with field of vision test
>> Then since my medical is a special issuance, it can not be renewed by a
>> local AME, but must be submitted to Oklahoma City. I had to get all of
>> these tests last year to get my medical reinstated, but I thought it was
>> a one-time requirement, and my doctors were able to do the tests as part
>> of my post-operative checkup. After I submitted all of the data, it took
>> 6 months for approval. Altogether, I figure it will cost me $1500 -
>> $2000 a year for 6 months of flying.
>>
>> Sooo .... this is where the impossible dream starts - I want to build my
>> RV-7 as a Light Sport Aircraft. Requirements are 1320 lb gross weight,
>> 138 mph top speed straight and level, and 51 mph stall speed w/o flaps.
>> Stall speed of the RV-7 at 1400 lb gross weight is 51 mph (probably with
>> flaps). Weight of 1320 pounds will lower this, but I may have to add
>> vortex generators to get it lower without flaps. Limiting speed to 138
>> mph maximum is no problem - I'll just use a prop that can not get above
>> this at max engine rpm's, and I'll have terrific climb performance. The
>> weight is the biggie.
>>
>> I figure I could bring the plane in at about 1000 lb empty weight with an
>> O-320 engine by watching construction carefully, foregoing paint, and
>> eliminating any luxuries such as sound insulation. However, this is
>> still about 200 lb too much to make the gross weight of 1320 lb., even
>> with only 20 gallons of fuel.
>>
>> Sooo, I'm going to have to take some drastic measures. The RV 7 will
>> cruise at 172 mph with 88 horsepower (55% of 160). Extrapolating, I
>> would only need 55 hp for 138 mph. I can get a VW-based engine with a
>> PSRU that will give me 100 hp. With a prop that limited top speed to 138
>> mph, this should still give me an acceptable climb rate. This engine
>> would weigh 100 lb less than the O-320. To maintain the center of
> > gravity, I would extend the motor mount and cowl.
>>
>> Now, I still need 100 lb more weight reduction, and this is where the
>> going gets tough and is the real reason for this post. With the reduced
>> gross weight and speed, I should be able to reduce some of the structure.
>> The question is how much and where. I would appreciate any suggestions.
>> If need be, I can eliminate the electrical system, since I'll only be
>> able to fly day VFR anyway.
>>
>> I've checked the archives using "weight reduction" as a search string,
>> but didn't find a whole lot.
>>
>> I know I am committing heresy by proposing to cripple a fine plane in
>> this manner, but I can't find any other aircraft that would measure up to
>> it, even in its crippled condition. It still will cruise faster than a
>> 172, still be aerobatic, and will still have the same delightful control
>> harmony.
>>
> > Jim Hasper - RV7
Jim,
It seems like you have already started construction on the RV-7 when
the health issue roadblock came up. That is a crying shame, as it is
extremely unlikely that you will be able to modify the RV-7 to be a
worthwhile LSA. You want to cut out 100 lb of structure, yet you
still want it to be strong enough to be aerobatic. These
requirements are incompatible.
You might think that reducing the engine weight would allow you to
lighten the structure in the forward fuselage. But, as you noted,
you will need to extend the engine mount for CG reasons. The longer
engine mount will increase the loads on the engine mount attach
points, so that will eat up much of the margin.
Sweeping the wing is not really an option, as that would require a
whole new spar design, and it greatly increases the torsional loads
at the wing attachment, as the lift on the outer parts of the wing
would be trying to twist the wing nose down. So, you would need to
increase the structure to carry this increased torsional loads (i.e.
you need to increase the weight). Sweeping the wing would also
probably add a need for two more bellcranks in the aileron pushrods
(even more weight).
It seems very unlikely you could remove 100 lb of structure and still
have an aircraft that is safe to fly, let alone do aerobatics in.
If there is no hope of sorting out the license issue, then you really
should sell the kit. Then either purchase a real LSA, or wait for
Van to bring his LSA to the market (or both).
Good luck.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <smileyburnett(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions |
Where do you find fuel lube? ACS doesn't carry it.
>
> From: "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com>
> Date: 2005/03/30 Wed PM 06:04:55 GMT
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Capacitance Fuel sender instructions |
ACS does carry EZ Turn, it is the same basic material. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
smileyburnett(at)charter.net
Subject: Re: RE: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
Where do you find fuel lube? ACS doesn't carry it.
>
> From: "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com>
> Date: 2005/03/30 Wed PM 06:04:55 GMT
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions |
smileyburnett(at)charter.net wrote:
>
>Where do you find fuel lube? ACS doesn't carry it.
>
>
They have it, it's called EZ Turn:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ezturnlube.php
Check Wicks I think they have a smaller container.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | RV-10 HS building question |
spamd4.ruraltel.net
RV-List:
RV-10 List:
When final drilling the skin holes on the horizontal stab with the #40 drill, are
the fairing attachment screw holes supposed to be drilled out also???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | RV-10 wing kit shipping price |
spamd2.ruraltel.net
RV-10 List:
I'm getting ready to order the RV-10 wing kit (slow build) and was curious about
shipping charges. I live in southwest Kansas. Anybody got any ballpark figures???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 wing kit shipping price |
Hey Bill and Tami,
Don't know how much it would be to ship you wings, but I just got the bill
for my RV8QB wings and fuselage crates to NJ. $2000, a little more than I
had expected, but at least they will be here in a couple more days. That was
for about 1000 pounds of cargo.
Good luck with you 10
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-10 wing kit shipping price
>
> RV-10 List:
>
> I'm getting ready to order the RV-10 wing kit (slow build) and was curious
> about shipping charges. I live in southwest Kansas. Anybody got any
> ballpark figures???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Emp #40137
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio |
> Rick Gould
> RV-4 Whidbey Island, WA
> FLY NAVY!
> __I__
> --O--O--( )--O--X--
>
Hi Rick,
Did your P-3 lose an engine?
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob 1" <rv3a.1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EXPERIMENTAL Signage/ WAS: Weight reduction |
> Look at AC20-27F paragraph 9.
>
> John D. Heath
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
You can also look here....
45.23 Display of marks; general
((b) When marks that include only the Roman capital letter "N" and the
registration number are displayed on limited or restricted category aircraft
or experimental or provisionally certificated aircraft, the operator shall
also display on that aircraft near each entrance to the cabin or cockpit, in
letters not less than 2 inches nor more than 6 inches in height, the words
"limited," "restricted," "experimental," or "provisional airworthiness," as
the case may be.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight reduction |
>
>
>> Buy a Taylorcraft instead. They fly 10 times better than a Cub, (same
>> airfoil as an RV), they are cheaper and 10 to 20 mph faster
>>
>> That should start a "discussion." Standing by with my asbestos underwear!
>>
>> Tailwinds,
>> Doug Rozendaal
>=====================================
>
>From unreliable memory.....
>
>The T-Craft and Bonanza share the same 23012 airfoil.
>
>Most Vans RV's use 24013.
>
>RV-9 uses "a new Roncz airfoil"..
>
>The old RV-3 used 21012?
>
>Bob - no cub fan [airplane or baseball]
According to the Incomplete List of Airfoil Usage, the RV-3 used the
23012, and all the two-seat short wing RVs (-4, -6, -7 and -8) use
the 23013.5. All the 23000 series airfoils have the same basic
shape, the only difference is the thickness. The thickness is given
by the last digits. The very popular 23012 airfoil is 12% thick
(i.e. the maximum thickness is 12% of the wing chord). The 23013.5
is 13.5% thick.
If you look at Incomplete List of Airfoil Usage, you will see that
the 23000 series is extremely widely used, on everything from
Taylorcrafts to Cessna Citations.
http://www.aae.uiuc.edu/m-selig/ads/aircraft.html
Note: I have heard elsewhere that Van made a slight mod to the 23000
profile by slightly increasing the leading edge camber to try to get
a bit more lift. I don't know if this is fact or fiction.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Weight reduction |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: Weight reduction
=====================================
>
>From unreliable memory.....
>
>The T-Craft and Bonanza share the same 23012 airfoil.
>
>Most Vans RV's use 24013.
>
>RV-9 uses "a new Roncz airfoil"..
>
>The old RV-3 used 21012?
>
>Bob - no cub fan [airplane or baseball]
According to the Incomplete List of Airfoil Usage, the RV-3 used the
23012, and all the two-seat short wing RVs (-4, -6, -7 and -8) use
the 23013.5. All the 23000 series airfoils have the same basic
shape, the only difference is the thickness. The thickness is given
by the last digits. The very popular 23012 airfoil is 12% thick
(i.e. the maximum thickness is 12% of the wing chord). The 23013.5
is 13.5% thick.
If you look at Incomplete List of Airfoil Usage, you will see that
the 23000 series is extremely widely used, on everything from
Taylorcrafts to Cessna Citations.
http://www.aae.uiuc.edu/m-selig/ads/aircraft.html
Note: I have heard elsewhere that Van made a slight mod to the 23000
profile by slightly increasing the leading edge camber to try to get
a bit more lift. I don't know if this is fact or fiction.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Kevin: My understanding is that when plotting the 13.5% airfoil, Van
made a mistake that resulted in a small change in camber (increase)
along with a larger leading edge radius and a small change in the slope
through the leading edge. The thickness distribution was unchanged.
When I was building the -4 I plotted the above along with the proper
one, as designed by the formula, included the mean lines. I briefly
considered changing the shape but since there was no compromise with
safety using Van's airfoil, decided it was not worth the effort. By
Van's words to me, he did not deliberately try to increase the available
lift.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | GNS430 - Navaid coupling (was Navaid works!) |
I have a Navaid connected to my Garmin 430. The Garmin 430 does not have the NEMA
data stream that the handhelds have. Rather it has a RS232 data stream that
is "Aviation" which is different. The GPS coupler that Navaid uses is the
Porcine unit. Porcine works GREAT with NEMA but not so hot with the Aviation
data stream.
My Porcine reads the "Aviation" data for a few minutes but will drop out. Porcine
sent me a new coupler over a year ago but it still has the same problem (dropping
out of course mode). At that time, Porcine had not done any work with
the Garmin 430/530. He offered to fix the problem if I would send my 430 to
him - not! I sent them an email a couple of months ago asking if they had made
any more revisions to better handle Aviation data streams. I think I still
have their latest version.
It does read the heading stream and this works ok. Flip the remote Porcine switch
to the right, it should flash green and yellow for a few seconds then will
be a solid yellow light indicating that it has locked onto the Garmin data stream.
In this mode you are locking onto the current heading. You can change
the current heading by momentarily flipping the Porcine toggle switch to the left
or right. I.e., if you are flying at 80 degrees and want to fly to the left
5 degrees (75 degrees), then flick switch to the left 5 times, each flick is
1 degree. Don't hold the switch too long, the Porcine will think you are transferring
to Course mode.
To use the CDI feature, you will need to wire the Garmin's CDI output to pins 3
& 6 of the Navaid. If you have the GPS coupler, then you will need to wire it
through a DPDT switch. The Garmin 430 CDI output is on pins 5 & 6 of P4006 (44
pin connector). If you have a CDI wired to the Garmin, it is easiest to tap
into these two wires going to the CDI.
One thing that I took me a while to figure out about the Navaid in track mode (CDI
or GPS coupled), is that you will need to use the trim knob occasionally to
help the Navaid get "on course".
Ronnie Brown
Velocity 173 Elite RG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | FAB airbox line up with induction scoop |
My RV-6A kit is about 5 years old and the induction scoop is separate
from the lower cowl. I have to bond it in. The lower cowl has a
depression molded into it to accept the "flange" of the induction
scoop. I learned yesterday that the carbuerator mounting location on a
Lycoming is not on the centerline but is offset to the left a 1/2 or 3/4
of an inch, relative to the cowl, anyway.
One could mount the induction scoop to the lower cowl shifted off center
a bit to make it line up with the carb (well, with the AFP fuel
controller in my case).
But one could also compensate for this by making a new top plate for the
Filtered Air Box that has the central mounting hole displaced to the
left by half an inch. Do people normally do this? Is this a bad idea?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAB airbox line up with induction scoop |
In a message dated 3/31/2005 6:33:31 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
sarg314(at)comcast.net writes:
I learned yesterday that the carburetor mounting location on a
Lycoming is not on the centerline but is offset to the left a 1/2 or 3/4
of an inch, relative to the cowl, anyway.
One could mount the induction scoop to the lower cowl shifted off center
a bit to make it line up with the carb (well, with the AFP fuel
controller in my case).
But one could also compensate for this by making a new top plate for the
Filtered Air Box that has the central mounting hole displaced to the
left by half an inch. Do people normally do this? Is this a bad idea?
==================================
Tom-
It is on the centerline, of the engine. Problem is, due to the way the
mount is offset to compensate for the way a right turning prop pulls the aircraft
to the left, the rear of the engine is skewed to the left. This puts the
carb to the left of centerline. I did make a new center bottom plate for the
carb that does exactly what you suggest and it works great.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Selling a plane to overseas buyer. |
Anyone have experience with selling or buying for that matter, a plane to someone
in Austrailia or other overseas? This is my Zodiac which is disasembled now,
not "tweety bird". Pls reply to email as I get the digest only, cheathco(at)comcast.net
Tnx charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EXPERIMENTAL Signage/ WAS: Weight reduction |
On a single place experiemntal aircraft you do not need the passenger
warning placard but you must still have the "Experimental" placard.
Mike Robertson
>From: "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q(at)direcway.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: EXPERIMENTAL Signage/ WAS: Weight reduction
>Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 20:14:27 -0600
>
>
>Look at AC20-27F paragraph 9.
>
> John D. Heath
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Weight reduction
>
>
> >
> > This is half right. The EXPERIMENTAL placard needs to be in place even
> > in a single place. The "This aircraft is amatuer built...blah blah"
> > placard is not needed for a single place.
> >
> > Jeff Point
> >
> >>nor do you need the little placard on the dash warning passengers
> >>this is an experimental! You don't even need the word "experimental" on
> >>the
> >>airplane another gram of weight saved.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 wing kit shipping price |
2000 bucks?! Gimme a break (not you, the shipping co). Might want to check
into this:
http://www.vansairforce.net/Graphics/PartainTruckingCo.htm
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10 wing kit shipping price
>
> Hey Bill and Tami,
>
> Don't know how much it would be to ship you wings, but I just got the bill
> for my RV8QB wings and fuselage crates to NJ. $2000, a little more than I
> had expected, but at least they will be here in a couple more days. That
was
> for about 1000 pounds of cargo.
>
> Good luck with you 10
> Paul
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: RV-10 wing kit shipping price
>
>
> >
> > RV-10 List:
> >
> > I'm getting ready to order the RV-10 wing kit (slow build) and was
curious
> > about shipping charges. I live in southwest Kansas. Anybody got any
> > ballpark figures???
> >
> > Bill Britton
> > RV-10 Emp #40137
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Brown" <nightmare(at)adelphia.net> |
Thanks to all who have asked for prices. I thought I might post again with prices.
If you feel you really need an item, make me an offer.
Thanks
Paul
SIZE MAKE Description SALE
3 1/8 Bendix Airspeed 240MPH 80.00
3 1/8 RC Allen Horizon Indicator Mod RCA22-7 200.00
3 1/8 Mitchell Aircraft Recording Manual Tach 327 on meter TSO'ed 75.00
3 1/8 United Instruments Alt 20K 175.00
3 1/8 Cessna DG (has slight frosting) Make offer
3 1/8 United Instruments VSI 0-4000 Type III 125.00
3 1/8 Navaid AP-1 no servo 300.00
2 1/4 UMA Manufold Pressure Mechanical 10-35 inhg 75.00
2 1/4 UMA Fuel Pressure Mechanical 0-10 psi 45.00
2 1/4 UMA Suction Mechanical 1-10 in Mercury 25.00
2 1/4 Isspro Fuel gauge 25.00
2 1/4 Westach Voltmeter 0-16V 25.00
2 1/4 KS Avionis Mixture Mizer EGT Monitor (No probes) 75.00
2 1/4 Aerospace Logic EGT fro 4 cy EGT-100-4 200.00
2 1/4 Westach Dual oil pressure/oil temp 100.00
King KT76A Transponder with Blind encoder 600.00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: pic of a good cowl scoop fit |
Hi Mike-
On my O-320 (carb) -6A using the standard airbox, I installed a strip of cowl
seal (maybe 2" wide and 8-9" long? - riveted to inlet) around the bottom and
up both sides of the inlet scoop (forming a "U") of the cowl to seal to the
airbox, and another across the top of the airbox (maybe 1.25" wide) right in
front of the carb heat inlet that overhangs maybe an inch to either side and
rests on top of the inlet scoop when installed- the lower "U" shaped pieces' top
edges push up against the ends sticking out on the upper piece giving a pretty
good seal, and it just drops straight down and goes right back up on
re-install with zero fiddling with any of the baffle material. Might not be "ingenius"
but it works and is dead-simple and bullet proof... Fotos of everything BUT!
(sorry)
Also, my cowl-spinner gap is pretty tight (a bit over 1/8") so I wrap a piece
of electrical tape around the rear edge of the spinner so about half of the
tape drops down inside the gap to protect the cowl when going on & off. (play
with it- you'll see what I mean) and do the same thing for the front edge of
the canopy deck to protect it from them nasty hinges- Works fine.
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | pic of a good cowl scoop fit |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Need Pics.
Brain not in step with words.
No comments from the peanut gallery either!
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: pic of a good cowl scoop fit
Hi Mike-
On my O-320 (carb) -6A using the standard airbox, I installed a strip of
cowl
seal (maybe 2" wide and 8-9" long? - riveted to inlet) around the bottom
and
up both sides of the inlet scoop (forming a "U") of the cowl to seal to
the
airbox, and another across the top of the airbox (maybe 1.25" wide)
right in
front of the carb heat inlet that overhangs maybe an inch to either side
and
rests on top of the inlet scoop when installed- the lower "U" shaped
pieces' top
edges push up against the ends sticking out on the upper piece giving a
pretty
good seal, and it just drops straight down and goes right back up on
re-install with zero fiddling with any of the baffle material. Might
not be "ingenius"
but it works and is dead-simple and bullet proof... Fotos of everything
BUT!
(sorry)
Also, my cowl-spinner gap is pretty tight (a bit over 1/8") so I wrap a
piece
of electrical tape around the rear edge of the spinner so about half of
the
tape drops down inside the gap to protect the cowl when going on & off.
(play
with it- you'll see what I mean) and do the same thing for the front
edge of
the canopy deck to protect it from them nasty hinges- Works fine.
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Directional Gyro |
If anyone is looking for a used electric directional gyro, I have one
that works great just pulling it out of my RV-6. Make me a reasonable
offer.
Jason
pics are here....
http://www.highland-parks.com/n242ds/pictures.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pic of a good cowl scoop fit |
>Need Pics.
>Brain not in step with words.
>No comments from the peanut gallery either!
>
>Mike
>
I don't have any pics but possibly the same idea stated in different
words might be helpful. From the archives Oct 3, 1999:
Bob Skinner (former RV6 guy, now just trout bum---but going to start
helping with another six project in a couple of weeks)
*RVers, There are a couple of other things that you might consider
to help make your bottom colw a little easier to remove and install.
On my six, I attached the baffle seal material to the top plate of
the FAB airbox. The bottom part, or "U", was attached to the
fiberglass "tunnel" that the builder fabricates with the help of the
foam plug. The baffle material is RTV'd to the tunnel and I put a
couple of #6 screws on each side at the top of the "U" to help hold
things in place. Using this method makes the cowl much easier to
remove as you don't have have the seal material to contend with when
installing. We used this method on "Gillete Charlie's" 6A, as well.
Cowl removal is a bit easier on the 6A as you don't have the main
gear legs to contend with. We also made removable inlet seals that
attach on the front, horizontal baffles with 2, #6 screws into
nutplates installed on the baffles. The baffle seal material has a
metal strip that spans the inlets, latterally and the baffle
material is siliconed to this strip. These strips are removed before
the bottom cowl is dropped. Like Scott, I've seen RVers have a heck
of a time with bottom cowl removal. Using the above mentioned
modifications seems to make things go a lot smoother. If you've
installed your cowl with a really tight gap to the spinner, you'll
still have a bit of a problem and will probably scratch the front
face of the bottom cowl, but it will be hidden by the spinner. On my
six, I used to use some small pieces of the stick-on sun shade that
I carried in my tool kit and stuck this material to the front face
of the cowl and the leading edge of the gear leg fairings to help
protect the paint when removing the cowl. This sun shade material
also works well for sealing the fuel caps if you're parked outside
and rain is a possibility. I also used pieces of this material to
seal the seam in the front of the tip up canopy (before buying a
cover from D.J.) and to seal the NACA vents. Oh, and I also used it
to keep the sun off my noggin:) Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo,
WY >And I would like to add that it is important to do this unless
you want >to struggle to install and remove your cowl. >If the
airbox extends all the way fwd to the scoop inlet, it is then
>actually fwd of the opening cut in the main cowl for the scoop to
attach. >This makes it impossible to lower the cowl downward because
the airbox >gets caught under the top of the inlet scoop. >If you
can't lower the cowl, it makes it very hard to get it out from
>behind the bottom half of the spinner. >>From what I have seen on
RV's at fly-in's their are lots of people >having a hard time
getting their cowls on and off, and they may not even >know why.
>Scott McDaniels >Former RV-6A owner >North Plains OR.
smcdaniels(at)juno.com >These opinions and
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pic of a good cowl scoop fit |
>Something I'm thinking about for my next plane is to make a removable
>plate on the bottom cowl to access the induction seal. I want to be able
>to put a hose clamp on it. If it were done this way, maybe you could
>raise the cowl straight into position without hitting the spinner. Has
>anybody else done this?
>
>Ed Holyoke
>RV-6a flying
>RV-6 in the works
>
Hi Ed,
I tried this idea before coming up with the one that worked, that I
just mentioned in another thread. The access plate was one of those
"looked good on paper" ideas that turned out not so good. And, it was a
lot of work. The mod with the "U" sealing material on the cowling
portion worked very well, was easy to build and was simpler and lighter
than the access plate idea.
Bob Skinner
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RV-10 wing kit shipping price |
Vans to Little Rock, Arkansas for 7 QB wings and QB Fuse crates was $1,200
total. That was with a discount for shipping to a warehouse facility. Used
ABF
Bill S
7a Ark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10 wing kit shipping price
2000 bucks?! Gimme a break (not you, the shipping co). Might want to check
into this:
http://www.vansairforce.net/Graphics/PartainTruckingCo.htm
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10 wing kit shipping price
>
> Hey Bill and Tami,
>
> Don't know how much it would be to ship you wings, but I just got the bill
> for my RV8QB wings and fuselage crates to NJ. $2000, a little more than I
> had expected, but at least they will be here in a couple more days. That
was
> for about 1000 pounds of cargo.
>
> Good luck with you 10
> Paul
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: RV-10 wing kit shipping price
>
>
> >
> > RV-10 List:
> >
> > I'm getting ready to order the RV-10 wing kit (slow build) and was
curious
> > about shipping charges. I live in southwest Kansas. Anybody got any
> > ballpark figures???
> >
> > Bill Britton
> > RV-10 Emp #40137
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Capacitance Fuel sender instructions |
EZ-Turn Lubricant is a good replacement.
ACS P/N 09-00180
John L. Danielson
EAA Chapter 420
Secretary and Newletter Editor
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
smileyburnett(at)charter.net
Subject: Re: RE: RV-List: Capacitance Fuel sender instructions
Where do you find fuel lube? ACS doesn't carry it.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | Titanium Tie Downs / Rocket Tailwheel link |
1. Has Randy Simpson (the seemingly elusive seller of the titanium
tiedowns) ever surfaced? I would like to acquire a set.
2. I understand someone new has taken over sales of the Rocket tailwheel
link. Does anyone know who, or where one can be purchased?
Thanks
Tony Marshall
RV6
Polson, MT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Van's Belt Buckles for International Customers |
I have had requests from people outside of the U.S. for my belt buckles. I am
happy to ship out of the country at no additional cost over my low $2.50 shipping
and handling charge, Pay Pal customers only. Thank you and take a look at
the upgraded web site. Glenn Brasch RV-9A fuselage.
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Titanium Tie Downs / Rocket Tailwheel link |
Don't know about Randy. The link for the rocket tailwheel is
www.iwantarocket.com/?source=rvproject.com The new operator is Wayne Hadath.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tony Marshall
Subject: RV-List: Titanium Tie Downs / Rocket Tailwheel link
1. Has Randy Simpson (the seemingly elusive seller of the titanium
tiedowns) ever surfaced? I would like to acquire a set.
2. I understand someone new has taken over sales of the Rocket tailwheel
link. Does anyone know who, or where one can be purchased?
Thanks
Tony Marshall
RV6
Polson, MT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Tie Downs / Rocket Tailwheel link |
I just got a rocket tailwheel link from Wayne. He is a nice guy and he
shipped the unit before I even paid for it. I had a nice conversation with
him.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Titanium Tie Downs / Rocket Tailwheel link
>
> Don't know about Randy. The link for the rocket tailwheel is
> www.iwantarocket.com/?source=rvproject.com The new operator is Wayne
Hadath.
> Don
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tony Marshall
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Titanium Tie Downs / Rocket Tailwheel link
>
>
> 1. Has Randy Simpson (the seemingly elusive seller of the titanium
> tiedowns) ever surfaced? I would like to acquire a set.
>
> 2. I understand someone new has taken over sales of the Rocket tailwheel
> link. Does anyone know who, or where one can be purchased?
>
> Thanks
>
> Tony Marshall
> RV6
> Polson, MT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: pic of a good cowl scoop fit |
Doesn't this U and top-piece arrangement leak precious ram air pressure that we
want in the FAB box?
I use a continuous wrap of baffle material for the flexible tunnel to connect cowl
to FAB, and admit it's a chore to get the lower cowl off, but at least it
doesn't leak. Relief cuts in the upper corners of the lower cowl's inside cutout
(semicircular opening to clear the spinner and prop shaft) make it easier
to bring the lower cowl forward early in the drop-down-to-remove sequence. Agree
with the use of tape to protect things, especially in my case the forward
edge of the nose gear leg fairing.
Just wondering how much MAP we lose when the induction air seal is split into two
pieces...
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pic of a good cowl scoop fit
>Need Pics.
>Brain not in step with words.
>No comments from the peanut gallery either!
>
>Mike
>
I don't have any pics but possibly the same idea stated in different
words might be helpful. From the archives Oct 3, 1999:
Bob Skinner (former RV6 guy, now just trout bum---but going to start
helping with another six project in a couple of weeks)
*RVers, There are a couple of other things that you might consider
to help make your bottom colw a little easier to remove and install.
On my six, I attached the baffle seal material to the top plate of
the FAB airbox. The bottom part, or "U", was attached to the
fiberglass "tunnel" that the builder fabricates with the help of the
foam plug. The baffle material is RTV'd to the tunnel and I put a
couple of #6 screws on each side at the top of the "U" to help hold
things in place. Using this method makes the cowl much easier to
remove as you don't have have the seal material to contend with when
installing. We used this method on "Gillete Charlie's" 6A, as well.
Cowl removal is a bit easier on the 6A as you don't have the main
gear legs to contend with. We also made removable inlet seals that
attach on the front, horizontal baffles with 2, #6 screws into
nutplates installed on the baffles. The baffle seal material has a
metal strip that spans the inlets, latterally and the baffle
material is siliconed to this strip. These strips are removed before
the bottom cowl is dropped. Like Scott, I've seen RVers have a heck
of a time with bottom cowl removal. Using the above mentioned
modifications seems to make things go a lot smoother. If you've
installed your cowl with a really tight gap to the spinner, you'll
still have a bit of a problem and will probably scratch the front
face of the bottom cowl, but it will be hidden by the spinner. On my
six, I used to use some small pieces of the stick-on sun shade that
I carried in my tool kit and stuck this material to the front face
of the cowl and the leading edge of the gear leg fairings to help
protect the paint when removing the cowl. This sun shade material
also works well for sealing the fuel caps if you're parked outside
and rain is a possibility. I also used pieces of this material to
seal the seam in the front of the tip up canopy (before buying a
cover from D.J.) and to seal the NACA vents. Oh, and I also used it
to keep the sun off my noggin:) Bob Skinner 1995 RV6 (sold) Buffalo,
WY >And I would like to add that it is important to do this unless
you want >to struggle to install and remove your cowl. >If the
airbox extends all the way fwd to the scoop inlet, it is then
>actually fwd of the opening cut in the main cowl for the scoop to
attach. >This makes it impossible to lower the cowl downward because
the airbox >gets caught under the top of the inlet scoop. >If you
can't lower the cowl, it makes it very hard to get it out from
>behind the bottom half of the spinner. >>From what I have seen on
RV's at fly-in's their are lots of people >having a hard time
getting their cowls on and off, and they may not even >know why.
>Scott McDaniels >Former RV-6A owner >North Plains OR.
smcdaniels(at)juno.com >These opinions and
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | pic of a good cowl scoop fit |
> Doesn't this U and top-piece arrangement leak precious ram
> air pressure that we want in the FAB box?
>
> Just wondering how much MAP we lose when the induction air
> seal is split into two pieces...
>
> -Stormy
I have the split arrangement also. I put a little spring wire on the baffle
seal which is on the top of the FAB, to insure that it presses down on the
top of the snorkle on the cowl. When I compare the MAP at full throttle
(the only time ram pressure matters) with and without alternate air
selected, I get about 3/4's of an inch difference, which is about as much as
is available at high altitude cruise speeds.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 604 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pic of a good cowl scoop fit |
sportav8r(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Doesn't this U and top-piece arrangement leak precious ram air pressure that we
want in the FAB box?
>
>I use a continuous wrap of baffle material for the flexible tunnel to connect
cowl to FAB, and admit it's a chore to get the lower cowl off, but at least it
doesn't leak. Relief cuts in the upper corners of the lower cowl's inside cutout
(semicircular opening to clear the spinner and prop shaft) make it easier
to bring the lower cowl forward early in the drop-down-to-remove sequence. Agree
with the use of tape to protect things, especially in my case the forward
edge of the nose gear leg fairing.
>
>Just wondering how much MAP we lose when the induction air seal is split into
two pieces...
>
>-Stormy
>
The 2 piece seal could leak a bit of air but I don't think too much.
There's not that much of a gap between the FAB box and the edge of the
inlet and the seal material is pretty stiff. In my case, I was willing
to take the risk of possibly not having 100% ram air (maybe only 98%) to
increase the ease of service. A cowl that doesn't get removed often
leads to an engine compartment that doesn't get inspected often. During
my first 50-75 hours, I had my cowling off quite a bit to keep a sharp
eye on every aspect of the engine installation. Plus, there's a lot to
be said for lowering the stress level of removal and installation and
the possible damage to a freshly painted cowling on a brand new, shiny
airplane.
Bob Skinner
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: pic of a good cowl scoop fit |
In a message dated 4/1/05 6:42:30 AM Central Standard Time, sportav8r(at)aol.com
writes:
> Doesn't this U and top-piece arrangement leak precious ram air pressure
> that we want in the FAB box?
>>>
Hi Stormy- FWIW, here's my take on it- bear in mind I'm no
aerodynamicistical-type person, but consider the following. (copied from a note
to Mike S.) If
there is evidence to the contrary, I'd be very interested in it!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Most info I've seen indicates that the pressure differential between the
inlet and the surrounding (lower) section of the cowling is probably on the order
of 1-1.5" Hg at best. This is based on what evidence I could come up with
including the 1981 NASA cooling investigation by Miley & Cross of TX A&M, my own
experiments with indicated manifold pressure with and without carb heat door
shut in high speed passes at low altitude, plus anecdotal evidence seen on the
RV-list.
What all this means is that if you were to take a shop vac and reverse the
hose from suck to blow (I'm estimating 3-5" Hg here? - have not instrumented
this, just guessing), then insert it into the air inlet, you probably would not
disturb the seals or cause much airflow past them, even with the throttle
closed.=A0 Bear in mind that with the engine running at WOT, it is doing its best
to
lower the pressure at the inlet, reducing the differential even more.
Also consider that the gap between the airbox and inlet are about 3/8", so
even if there is a fair amount of pressure pushing against the seal, it probably
is deflecting it very little.=A0 If you're gonna be at S&F, take a gander at my
snoot (on the plane, please!), stick your finger in there and push on the
seal- you'll see it take a fair amount of force to displace it.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I could be wrong, but this works for me (so far!)
Mark Phillips - N51PW 155 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Titanium Tie Downs / Rocket Tailwheel link |
Tony -
I bought three steering links from Wayne Hadath a few weeks ago.
Not installed yet, but they seem well made.
I'm happy...
Wayne Hadath
Wayne Hadath [whadath(at)intown.net]
Just Plane Works Inc.
23 Jadestone Court
Kitchener, Ontario
Canada
N2A 3X7
519-648-3375
Neal
RV-7 (*still* waiting for fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Eustace's address at the hospital |
To any & all RV-Ators that inquired on & off line about Eustace Bowhay's Well-Being:
Below is his current hospital address as provided by his good friend and regular
visitor Ken Hoshowski.
Thanks to Ken for visiting him regularly and forwarding his address to us, ...and
we hope you do not get to overwhelmed.
Sincerely,
Konrad
...Please give OUR VERY BEST WISHES TO THE GIANT.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Hoshowski
Subject: RE: Eustace's address at the hospital
Konrad,
Eustace is currently in the:
Royal Inland Hospital
311 Columbia St.
Kamloops B.C.
CANADA, V2C 1T2
Rehabilitation Ward, 5 North
Phone Number direct to this ward is (250) 314-2555
I have had quite a few letters sent to me for delivery to Eustace. I print them
and put them in a binder. If anyone would like to do this please send them
I will print them and deliver them on my next visit. Thanks for taking the time
to do this for Eustace, he will appreciate it.
Ken Hoshowski
RV6 C-FKEH
-----Original Message-----
From: Konrad L. Werner [mailto:klwerner(at)comcast.net]
Subject: Eustace's address at the hospital
Dear Ken,
Would you have the contact info for the hospital Eustace is in? People on the RV-List
asked me for a physical address as be able to send him Get-Well-Cards!
Let me know please, so I can put it out on the List.
Thank you,
Konrad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Titanium Tie Downs / Rocket Tailwheel link |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on opie.wvnet.edu
You can send money, but you won't get the product. I ordered in March 2004
and I am still waiting.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
>1. Has Randy Simpson (the seemingly elusive seller of the titanium
>tiedowns) ever surfaced? I would like to acquire a set.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Commercial to Tampa/Lakeland |
Hi Dana,
I have a buddy who just went and stood by the rental car counter and waited
until somebody picked up a car to drive to SnF. He asked for a ride and the
guy was happy to oblige... A little beyond my comfort level, but it worked
out for him. The majority of folks going to this fly-in are pilots and they
understand the ground transportation problem. There have been rentals
available at the fly-in site in years past. I assume if it comes to that
you could rent one for the trip back to Tampa.
Tampa is a fair way from Lakeland, and if you haven't been to SnF before,
the airport is out in the dingles. Might be easier to just rent a car. I
use Eagle when I'm down there. Brand new cars and good prices.
Unfortunately this is getting into spring break and the high season down
there and the rental prices just took a big jump upwards.
Good luck and have fun!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey Guys,
I am getting very close to flying my RV-8A. My insurance company
(Nationair) is requiring 5 hours dual with a CFI in an RV-8A, 6A, or 7A.
They will not accept a 9A. They will NOT accept a checkout in one of the
tail dragger models. I live in Ohio and the only CFI's that I am aware of
are all using tail draggers. The only "A" model CFI's that I know of are in
Oregon and Florida.
Does anyone know of a CFI with a 6A, 7A, or 8A a bit closer to Ohio?
Thanks,
Vince Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Airmap 500 for sale |
Listers,
I'm in the process of updating to a Lowrance AirMap 1000 so I am putting
my Airmap 500 up for sale.
It is approx 1 yr. old, in excellent condition and includes all original
accessories including the original box.
The SD card has been upgraded to 256mB. Can be used for Air, land, and
sea navigation.
Data base is current to 1/19/05 and operating system is at v1.5
$300 plus actual shipping cost
From the Lowrance.com web site:
The AirMapR 500 carries on the AirMapR tradition of reliability,
versatility, and value, all in a sleek new package. Features JeppesenR
and Lowrance Obstructions databases loaded on one 32MB MMC card,
MapCreateT software, an MMC/SD card reader-writer, a cigarette plug
power adapter, an advanced active remote antenna, a yoke-mount bracket,
a suction-cup car mount bracket, and a wrist strap.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
Hi Vince,
You might try Ben:
USA Texas Ben Johnson (6A) Mesquite 469.726.9359
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: CFI
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> I am getting very close to flying my RV-8A. My insurance company
> (Nationair) is requiring 5 hours dual with a CFI in an RV-8A, 6A, or 7A.
> They will not accept a 9A. They will NOT accept a checkout in one of the
> tail dragger models. I live in Ohio and the only CFI's that I am aware of
> are all using tail draggers. The only "A" model CFI's that I know of are
in
> Oregon and Florida.
>
> Does anyone know of a CFI with a 6A, 7A, or 8A a bit closer to Ohio?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Vince Welch
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process |
I am in the process of testing my fuel tanks for leaks. I am using the
method where I attach a clear plastic tube to one of the openings and fill
it with water. I am curious as to what differential people see in the
height of the water on the 2 sides of the loop of tubing. With no back
pressure from a sealed tank, the level in both sides of the tube would be
the same, however with the back pressure from the tank, you get a little bit
higher level on the side away from the tank. I am getting about a 5"
difference in water level using about a 6' loop of 3/8" tubing which makes
reasonable sense since I'm not getting much pressure form that little amount
of water. I'm just wondering what others have seen. Obviously as long as
that differential remains, that I do not have any leaks in the tanks. The
differential may vary slightly as temperature changes, and therefore
pressure inside the tank changes, but if there was a leak it would equalize
to the same level. Does this make sense???
PAul Trotter
RV-8 82080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process |
Hi Paul,
I looked back in my log and recalled the following:
I made a water manometer, about a 40 inch U of vinyl tubing filled with
food colored water. I applied pressure with my breath and pinched off
the tube. The differential height of water was in the vicinity of 26 to
32 inches which translates to 1-2 psi over atmospheric pressure. ( I
think that much more could distort the tank). I also noted variation in
pressure with time which correlated very well with the temperature in
the room. When the pressure did not decline over several days, I
considered that I had no leaks. I did have problems initially with
several leak sources. There was one rivet that was accessible through
the inspection plate; there were leaks around the BNC connectors for the
capacitive fuel quantity system which were also accessible and easily
sealed, and worst of all, the fuel fillers were difficult to seal and
contributed the worst leaks until I found a plumber's plug that could be
inflated into the fuller neck and sealed that off.
I am now flying and have had fuel in the tanks for about 3 months
without any fuel leaks.
Hope this is useful information.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A with 16 hours in Phase I
Paul Trotter wrote:
>
>I am in the process of testing my fuel tanks for leaks. I am using the
>method where I attach a clear plastic tube to one of the openings and fill
>it with water. I am curious as to what differential people see in the
>height of the water on the 2 sides of the loop of tubing. With no back
>pressure from a sealed tank, the level in both sides of the tube would be
>the same, however with the back pressure from the tank, you get a little bit
>higher level on the side away from the tank. I am getting about a 5"
>difference in water level using about a 6' loop of 3/8" tubing which makes
>reasonable sense since I'm not getting much pressure form that little amount
>of water. I'm just wondering what others have seen. Obviously as long as
>that differential remains, that I do not have any leaks in the tanks. The
>differential may vary slightly as temperature changes, and therefore
>pressure inside the tank changes, but if there was a leak it would equalize
>to the same level. Does this make sense???
>
>PAul Trotter
>RV-8 82080
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Shop Floor Epoxy |
The current (April 2005) issue of Aviation Consumer has a one-year follow up
on their hangar floor painting tests. In short, the 2-part epoxy from
Griot's Garage "Although miserable to apply due to its thick, honey-like
consistency, this paint looks as shiny and perfect as the day it was
applied." It cost $56.95 a gallon. I don't know what the coverage was/is.
They did NOT like the Rust-Oleum 2-part epoxy.
I noticed at Costco a week or so ago that they have these interlocking
plastic floor tiles for garages. They are hard plastic. Half of each box
is black, half is white. But I think they cost $100 for 40 square feet.
That seemed very expensive to me.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard McCraw
Subject: RE: RV-List: Shop Floor Epoxy
There was an Aviation Consumer article about this general topic sometime in
the past couple of years or so. I don't know if it answers your question.
If you'd like me to hunt down the article (or try to!), let me know.
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process |
Richard,
Thanks. I found that I was able to blow into the drain fitting while
pressing it in and was able to get about 24" of water height differential.
That should give me enough pressure to detect a leak. So far the first tank
looks good. I'll leave it for a few days to make sure and then move on to
the next tank.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
>
> Hi Paul,
>
> I looked back in my log and recalled the following:
> I made a water manometer, about a 40 inch U of vinyl tubing filled with
> food colored water. I applied pressure with my breath and pinched off
> the tube. The differential height of water was in the vicinity of 26 to
> 32 inches which translates to 1-2 psi over atmospheric pressure. ( I
> think that much more could distort the tank). I also noted variation in
> pressure with time which correlated very well with the temperature in
> the room. When the pressure did not decline over several days, I
> considered that I had no leaks. I did have problems initially with
> several leak sources. There was one rivet that was accessible through
> the inspection plate; there were leaks around the BNC connectors for the
> capacitive fuel quantity system which were also accessible and easily
> sealed, and worst of all, the fuel fillers were difficult to seal and
> contributed the worst leaks until I found a plumber's plug that could be
> inflated into the fuller neck and sealed that off.
> I am now flying and have had fuel in the tanks for about 3 months
> without any fuel leaks.
>
> Hope this is useful information.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A with 16 hours in Phase I
>
> Paul Trotter wrote:
>
> >
> >I am in the process of testing my fuel tanks for leaks. I am using the
> >method where I attach a clear plastic tube to one of the openings and
fill
> >it with water. I am curious as to what differential people see in the
> >height of the water on the 2 sides of the loop of tubing. With no back
> >pressure from a sealed tank, the level in both sides of the tube would be
> >the same, however with the back pressure from the tank, you get a little
bit
> >higher level on the side away from the tank. I am getting about a 5"
> >difference in water level using about a 6' loop of 3/8" tubing which
makes
> >reasonable sense since I'm not getting much pressure form that little
amount
> >of water. I'm just wondering what others have seen. Obviously as long
as
> >that differential remains, that I do not have any leaks in the tanks.
The
> >differential may vary slightly as temperature changes, and therefore
> >pressure inside the tank changes, but if there was a leak it would
equalize
> >to the same level. Does this make sense???
> >
> >PAul Trotter
> >RV-8 82080
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DellAngelo, Scott M" <SDellAngelo(at)usg.com> |
Vince,
Sam Benjamin in Alma, MI does training in his 9A. You could try posting
to the Yahoo 9 group because I see he posts there. I have also seen
posts from him on the VAF forum, not sure about here through.
Scott DellAngelo
Plainfield, IL
#90598 Transitioning to Finish Kit
N598SD reserved
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: CFI
-->
Hey Guys,
I am getting very close to flying my RV-8A. My insurance company
(Nationair) is requiring 5 hours dual with a CFI in an RV-8A, 6A, or 7A.
They will not accept a 9A. They will NOT accept a checkout in one of
the
tail dragger models. I live in Ohio and the only CFI's that I am aware
of
are all using tail draggers. The only "A" model CFI's that I know of
are in
Oregon and Florida.
Does anyone know of a CFI with a 6A, 7A, or 8A a bit closer to Ohio?
Thanks,
Vince Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
Thanks Scott, but the insurance company will not accept a 9A.
Vince
>From: "DellAngelo, Scott M" <SDellAngelo(at)usg.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RE: CFI
>Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 07:13:57 -0600
>
>
>Vince,
>
>Sam Benjamin in Alma, MI does training in his 9A. You could try posting
>to the Yahoo 9 group because I see he posts there. I have also seen
>posts from him on the VAF forum, not sure about here through.
>
>Scott DellAngelo
>Plainfield, IL
>#90598 Transitioning to Finish Kit
>N598SD reserved
>
>From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
>Subject: RV-List: CFI
>
>-->
>
>Hey Guys,
>
>I am getting very close to flying my RV-8A. My insurance company
>(Nationair) is requiring 5 hours dual with a CFI in an RV-8A, 6A, or 7A.
>
>They will not accept a 9A. They will NOT accept a checkout in one of
>the
>tail dragger models. I live in Ohio and the only CFI's that I am aware
>of
>are all using tail draggers. The only "A" model CFI's that I know of
>are in
>Oregon and Florida.
>
>Does anyone know of a CFI with a 6A, 7A, or 8A a bit closer to Ohio?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Vince Welch
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
After escorting a friends RV-4 to Great Falls, MT Friday, I flew north and
stuck a wing over the Canadian border at Sweetgrass, MT (Ross International
Airport K7S8) and then flew 28 miles south landing at Shelby, MT KSBX for
fuel. Next stop was Salt Lake City #2 KU42 for fuel, then Kanab, UT KKNB for
fuel and to see a Glassair, then Yuma, AZ KYUM after sticking a wing into
Mexico for a distance of 988 nm.. Air was very rough North of SLC through
Montana with mild to strong headwinds (both directions!). Navigating and
communicating in rough air is made vastly easier using the Altrak Altitude
Hold and the NavAid Autopilot. The ControlVision GPS unit works flawlessly
and raises the comfort level a bunch flying over sparsely populated areas.
This plane is a joy to fly and land even in crosswinds. Keep building.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV, 423 hours
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Epoxy floor coating |
A couple years ago, 2001, I was involved in a big hanger build up. After
the concrete seasoned for about 60 days, we mechanically cleaned with a
scotch bright pad on the floor buffing machine. The big industrial type of
machine with about a 2' buffing wheel. Took off tire marks from
construction machines driving over the surface and any mud and dirt. Roughed
up the surface just a bit. Cleaned with water twice (no acid etch, dried
for a day or so and then primed prior to putting on two coats of epoxy. I
think this was only about $25 per gallon because I didn't spend more than
$175 if my memory serves me right for primer, hardener and paint. We put it
on with a 18" roller. Hanger is 42'x34' rectangular. Seems to be holding
on well. Paint came from a local paint manufacturer who is a EAA member and
gave us a very fair price.
Marty in Brentwood.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: falcon compass light bulb |
In a message dated 4/3/2005 9:10:31 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
luckymacy(at)comcast.net writes:
My compass didn't come with a light bulb despite the fact that it's
advertised as internally lit and the local hardware stores didn't carry these
bulbs i
n their specialty bulb boxes.
The archives didn't turn up a hit on this. I'm putting in an order to ACS
and was wondering if someone knew what the bulb part number is I need!
There's no mention of it in the compass box.
==============================================
I think the lamp for both post lights and compasses is a 330.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Dual P-Mags, Flying 737hrs, Silicon Valley,
CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airmap 500 for sale |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Ed,
I am interested in your Airmap 500, Let me know where to send
the money and its done.
Jim Nelson
RV9Jim(at)Juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Hasson" <hassonr(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Epoxy floor coating |
What was the name of the product?
Bob Hasson
RV-6A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Emrath
Subject: RV-List: Epoxy floor coating
A couple years ago, 2001, I was involved in a big hanger build up. After
the concrete seasoned for about 60 days, we mechanically cleaned with a
scotch bright pad on the floor buffing machine. The big industrial type of
machine with about a 2' buffing wheel. Took off tire marks from
construction machines driving over the surface and any mud and dirt. Roughed
up the surface just a bit. Cleaned with water twice (no acid etch, dried
for a day or so and then primed prior to putting on two coats of epoxy. I
think this was only about $25 per gallon because I didn't spend more than
$175 if my memory serves me right for primer, hardener and paint. We put it
on with a 18" roller. Hanger is 42'x34' rectangular. Seems to be holding
on well. Paint came from a local paint manufacturer who is a EAA member and
gave us a very fair price.
Marty in Brentwood.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Commercial to Tampa/Lakeland |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Dana,
What time are you arriving on thursday? I am heading there and
going past the airport. I live in St/ Petersburg and if you are early
enough, I'd be glad to pick you up.
Jim Nelson
RV9Jim(at)Juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shop Floor Epoxy |
I would highly suggest using a commercial operator to do your floor for several
reasons. 1) They can properly prep your floor, 2) They have experience, 3) you
have a warranty 4) you don't have to do it.
I have my hangar floor and garage epoxied (airpark home). I opted for two heavy
coats of an industrial epoxy because I knew I was going to be building a plane.
This ran me $1.80 a foot. A great epoxy floor can be had for $1.40 a foot in
most areas.
I would avoid the Home Desparate epoxy kit. I have seen a few of those and they
are rarely long lasting. When it comes time to get it done right, you'll pay
dearly to get the other removed.
Sure you can try to save some bucks, but will you really?
Darwin N. Barrie
P19
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process |
I regret that this mail should dampen your enthusiasm but testing with water
is not conclusive - OK as a first indicator, but not OK as far as gasoline
is concerned. Problem with water is that it does not wet the metal hence
surface tension will act as a miniature dam on small leak zones, whereas
gasoline will seep through readily.
You might want to add some wetting agent (soap, shampoo??) but I am not sure
that this will make a significant difference.
To check my tanks I put 5 gallons of 100LL (nice because it is blue) and let
them sit 48 hours at a time in all possible positions (6 total). The only
leak I found was a purge valve which not tightened enough. You can enhance
the test by putting talcum powder on the outside - acts as a developer on
gasoline seepage.
Michle - RV8 - Wings
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Trotter
> Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2005 3:14 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
>
>
> Richard,
>
> Thanks. I found that I was able to blow into the drain fitting while
> pressing it in and was able to get about 24" of water height differential.
> That should give me enough pressure to detect a leak. So far the first
> tank
> looks good. I'll leave it for a few days to make sure and then move on to
> the next tank.
>
>
> Paul
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley(at)att.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
>
>
> >
> > Hi Paul,
> >
> > I looked back in my log and recalled the following:
> > I made a water manometer, about a 40 inch U of vinyl tubing filled with
> > food colored water. I applied pressure with my breath and pinched off
> > the tube. The differential height of water was in the vicinity of 26 to
> > 32 inches which translates to 1-2 psi over atmospheric pressure. ( I
> > think that much more could distort the tank). I also noted variation in
> > pressure with time which correlated very well with the temperature in
> > the room. When the pressure did not decline over several days, I
> > considered that I had no leaks. I did have problems initially with
> > several leak sources. There was one rivet that was accessible through
> > the inspection plate; there were leaks around the BNC connectors for the
> > capacitive fuel quantity system which were also accessible and easily
> > sealed, and worst of all, the fuel fillers were difficult to seal and
> > contributed the worst leaks until I found a plumber's plug that could be
> > inflated into the fuller neck and sealed that off.
> > I am now flying and have had fuel in the tanks for about 3 months
> > without any fuel leaks.
> >
> > Hope this is useful information.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Richard Dudley
> > -6A with 16 hours in Phase I
> >
> > Paul Trotter wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >I am in the process of testing my fuel tanks for leaks. I am using the
> > >method where I attach a clear plastic tube to one of the openings and
> fill
> > >it with water. I am curious as to what differential people see in the
> > >height of the water on the 2 sides of the loop of tubing. With no back
> > >pressure from a sealed tank, the level in both sides of the tube would
> be
> > >the same, however with the back pressure from the tank, you get a
> little
> bit
> > >higher level on the side away from the tank. I am getting about a 5"
> > >difference in water level using about a 6' loop of 3/8" tubing which
> makes
> > >reasonable sense since I'm not getting much pressure form that little
> amount
> > >of water. I'm just wondering what others have seen. Obviously as long
> as
> > >that differential remains, that I do not have any leaks in the tanks.
> The
> > >differential may vary slightly as temperature changes, and therefore
> > >pressure inside the tank changes, but if there was a leak it would
> equalize
> > >to the same level. Does this make sense???
> > >
> > >PAul Trotter
> > >RV-8 82080
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clive Whittfield" <cazw(at)ihug.co.nz> |
A question from a Kiwi newbie. Currently in the process of building up the firewall
of my slow build RV6 project and have struck a problem I'm hoping the list
can provide some help with. I am using the (Vans supplied) engine mount to
accurately locate the bolt holes. The mount lines up perfectly with the top
two tooling holes and also with one of the pilot holes (#14) I have drilled for
the bottom outside corner mounting points. The other corner of the mount is
lower than the pilot hole by about 1/8". After some careful re-measuring I find
my pilot holes are correctly positioned as per the plans, it is the engine
mount that is slightly longer top to bottom on one side. At first glance this
didn't present a problem until I realised that, if drilled to size the bolt
head on the offending corner would interfere with the (correctly located) steel
engine mount support. My question is, if I were to move the engine mount up
by about 1/8" to 3/16" to create sufficient clearance, would this cause problems
elsewhere i.e. cowl interference, thrust line etc? If so, any suggestions
for a fix?
Clive Whittfield
New Zealand
RV6 wings, tail feathers done, fuselage started
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shop Floor Epoxy |
I have a 60x65 hanger and I used "Hard Deck." It is UNGodly expensive,
miserable to apply, and worth every penny. The guy who built my hanger was
mad because he never did it, and it was a condition of the sale that I had
to paint the floor. He did me a favor.
I put on 2 coats of gray and one coat of clear. It is more durable than the
concrete below it.
The hanger was 5 years old so I had is shot blasted with steel shot, then we
painted. It was a miserable job, but not difficult. I used rollers. Buy a
good mask. The stuff is deadly. I can't recall exactly what it costs, but
my recollection was I used 20 gallons at $100 bucks per gallon. plus $750
for the shot blasting.
Big bucks, but worth every penny. 3 years later there is not a mark on it!
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Patterson" <kbob(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shop Floor Epoxy |
Just another data point...
I used the Rustoleum 2 part epoxy kit but got the INDUSTRIAL kit, not the
HOME OWNER kit. Last time I looked it wasn't even on the shelf, but I know
you can get it. This stuff is made for forklift traffic and is very
durable. Put it down prior to taking delivery of my wing kit 2 years ago. I
have slid engine pallets and Van's crates across it followed by a damp rag
and the marks are gone! Only a rock or nail will dig into it. It took 4
gallons total for a 3 car garage. Requires a respirator, a few paint
rollers and a couple days to throw away. Best $200 investment you can make
in a home. Anything less will not add value as it will look worn in just a
year.
Kelly Patterson
PHX, AZ
RV-6A N716K
Glass & FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process |
Hi Michle,
I think that Paul was using air pressure as measured by a column of
water to test his tanks for leaks. At least that is what I assumed. My
comments to him assumed that because it is the procedure others haveI
used, and the one I used. The water manometer is merely a means of
measuring the air pressure, the difference in heights of water in the
U-shaped manometer. I know that some have filled their tanks with water
as a leak test,. Certainly, your comments apply in that case. The final
test is filling the tanks with 100LL. The pressure test is an effective
in process check that must pass if the tank is to be leak free.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>I regret that this mail should dampen your enthusiasm but testing with water
>is not conclusive - OK as a first indicator, but not OK as far as gasoline
>is concerned. Problem with water is that it does not wet the metal hence
>surface tension will act as a miniature dam on small leak zones, whereas
>gasoline will seep through readily.
>
>You might want to add some wetting agent (soap, shampoo??) but I am not sure
>that this will make a significant difference.
>
>To check my tanks I put 5 gallons of 100LL (nice because it is blue) and let
>them sit 48 hours at a time in all possible positions (6 total). The only
>leak I found was a purge valve which not tightened enough. You can enhance
>the test by putting talcum powder on the outside - acts as a developer on
>gasoline seepage.
>
>Michle - RV8 - Wings
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>>server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Trotter
>>Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2005 3:14 AM
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
>>
>>
>>Richard,
>>
>>Thanks. I found that I was able to blow into the drain fitting while
>>pressing it in and was able to get about 24" of water height differential.
>>That should give me enough pressure to detect a leak. So far the first
>>tank
>>looks good. I'll leave it for a few days to make sure and then move on to
>>the next tank.
>>
>>
>>Paul
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley(at)att.net>
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Hi Paul,
>>>
>>>I looked back in my log and recalled the following:
>>>I made a water manometer, about a 40 inch U of vinyl tubing filled with
>>>food colored water. I applied pressure with my breath and pinched off
>>>the tube. The differential height of water was in the vicinity of 26 to
>>>32 inches which translates to 1-2 psi over atmospheric pressure. ( I
>>>think that much more could distort the tank). I also noted variation in
>>>pressure with time which correlated very well with the temperature in
>>>the room. When the pressure did not decline over several days, I
>>>considered that I had no leaks. I did have problems initially with
>>>several leak sources. There was one rivet that was accessible through
>>>the inspection plate; there were leaks around the BNC connectors for the
>>>capacitive fuel quantity system which were also accessible and easily
>>>sealed, and worst of all, the fuel fillers were difficult to seal and
>>>contributed the worst leaks until I found a plumber's plug that could be
>>>inflated into the fuller neck and sealed that off.
>>> I am now flying and have had fuel in the tanks for about 3 months
>>>without any fuel leaks.
>>>
>>>Hope this is useful information.
>>>
>>>Regards,
>>>
>>>Richard Dudley
>>>-6A with 16 hours in Phase I
>>>
>>>Paul Trotter wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>I am in the process of testing my fuel tanks for leaks. I am using the
>>>>method where I attach a clear plastic tube to one of the openings and
>>>>
>>>>
>>fill
>>
>>
>>>>it with water. I am curious as to what differential people see in the
>>>>height of the water on the 2 sides of the loop of tubing. With no back
>>>>pressure from a sealed tank, the level in both sides of the tube would
>>>>
>>>>
>>be
>>
>>
>>>>the same, however with the back pressure from the tank, you get a
>>>>
>>>>
>>little
>>bit
>>
>>
>>>>higher level on the side away from the tank. I am getting about a 5"
>>>>difference in water level using about a 6' loop of 3/8" tubing which
>>>>
>>>>
>>makes
>>
>>
>>>>reasonable sense since I'm not getting much pressure form that little
>>>>
>>>>
>>amount
>>
>>
>>>>of water. I'm just wondering what others have seen. Obviously as long
>>>>
>>>>
>>as
>>
>>
>>>>that differential remains, that I do not have any leaks in the tanks.
>>>>
>>>>
>>The
>>
>>
>>>>differential may vary slightly as temperature changes, and therefore
>>>>pressure inside the tank changes, but if there was a leak it would
>>>>
>>>>
>>equalize
>>
>>
>>>>to the same level. Does this make sense???
>>>>
>>>>PAul Trotter
>>>>RV-8 82080
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process |
Michle,
I agree with you to an extent. Fuel will find its way out of a leak faster
than water. However I am not putting water in the tank, just pressurizing
it slightly with air and using the water filled tube simply to measure any
change in pressure in the tank. Air molecules are fairly small, with little
if any surface tension, so they should leak faster than water or fuel. I
put about 1 PSI of pressure in the tank and it seems to remain fairly
stable, taking into account temperature and barometric pressure changes.
That being said, I will probably test with fuel at some point when the
weather gets better and I can do it outside. Playing with 5-10 gallons of
fuel in my basement probably isn't a good idea :-)
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: <owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
>
> I regret that this mail should dampen your enthusiasm but testing with
water
> is not conclusive - OK as a first indicator, but not OK as far as gasoline
> is concerned. Problem with water is that it does not wet the metal hence
> surface tension will act as a miniature dam on small leak zones, whereas
> gasoline will seep through readily.
>
> You might want to add some wetting agent (soap, shampoo??) but I am not
sure
> that this will make a significant difference.
>
> To check my tanks I put 5 gallons of 100LL (nice because it is blue) and
let
> them sit 48 hours at a time in all possible positions (6 total). The only
> leak I found was a purge valve which not tightened enough. You can enhance
> the test by putting talcum powder on the outside - acts as a developer on
> gasoline seepage.
>
> Michle - RV8 - Wings
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Trotter
> > Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2005 3:14 AM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
> >
> >
> > Richard,
> >
> > Thanks. I found that I was able to blow into the drain fitting while
> > pressing it in and was able to get about 24" of water height
differential.
> > That should give me enough pressure to detect a leak. So far the first
> > tank
> > looks good. I'll leave it for a few days to make sure and then move on
to
> > the next tank.
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley(at)att.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hi Paul,
> > >
> > > I looked back in my log and recalled the following:
> > > I made a water manometer, about a 40 inch U of vinyl tubing filled
with
> > > food colored water. I applied pressure with my breath and pinched off
> > > the tube. The differential height of water was in the vicinity of 26
to
> > > 32 inches which translates to 1-2 psi over atmospheric pressure. ( I
> > > think that much more could distort the tank). I also noted variation
in
> > > pressure with time which correlated very well with the temperature in
> > > the room. When the pressure did not decline over several days, I
> > > considered that I had no leaks. I did have problems initially with
> > > several leak sources. There was one rivet that was accessible through
> > > the inspection plate; there were leaks around the BNC connectors for
the
> > > capacitive fuel quantity system which were also accessible and easily
> > > sealed, and worst of all, the fuel fillers were difficult to seal and
> > > contributed the worst leaks until I found a plumber's plug that could
be
> > > inflated into the fuller neck and sealed that off.
> > > I am now flying and have had fuel in the tanks for about 3 months
> > > without any fuel leaks.
> > >
> > > Hope this is useful information.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Richard Dudley
> > > -6A with 16 hours in Phase I
> > >
> > > Paul Trotter wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >I am in the process of testing my fuel tanks for leaks. I am using
the
> > > >method where I attach a clear plastic tube to one of the openings and
> > fill
> > > >it with water. I am curious as to what differential people see in
the
> > > >height of the water on the 2 sides of the loop of tubing. With no
back
> > > >pressure from a sealed tank, the level in both sides of the tube
would
> > be
> > > >the same, however with the back pressure from the tank, you get a
> > little
> > bit
> > > >higher level on the side away from the tank. I am getting about a 5"
> > > >difference in water level using about a 6' loop of 3/8" tubing which
> > makes
> > > >reasonable sense since I'm not getting much pressure form that little
> > amount
> > > >of water. I'm just wondering what others have seen. Obviously as
long
> > as
> > > >that differential remains, that I do not have any leaks in the tanks.
> > The
> > > >differential may vary slightly as temperature changes, and therefore
> > > >pressure inside the tank changes, but if there was a leak it would
> > equalize
> > > >to the same level. Does this make sense???
> > > >
> > > >PAul Trotter
> > > >RV-8 82080
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process |
You're right Richard, that is what I am doing. The only difficulty is
determining if water height changes are do to leaks or changes in barometric
pressure or temperature. At 1 PSI, it doesn't take much temp or pressure
change to move the water column. The first night it changed very little,
then last night it dropped about 4" but we had a front come through so I
think that accounted for the change. I am doing both tanks simultaneously
as an additional check. I think it would be unlikely that both would leak
the same amount, so if the water height changes the same on both tanks, it
is likely due to temp or barometric pressure changes. I'll be away for a
few days so I am going to let it sit and see what it looks like when I get
back. SO far they both look good.
Thanks,
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Leak Testing Process
>
> Hi Michle,
>
> I think that Paul was using air pressure as measured by a column of
> water to test his tanks for leaks. At least that is what I assumed. My
> comments to him assumed that because it is the procedure others haveI
> used, and the one I used. The water manometer is merely a means of
> measuring the air pressure, the difference in heights of water in the
> U-shaped manometer. I know that some have filled their tanks with water
> as a leak test,. Certainly, your comments apply in that case. The final
> test is filling the tanks with 100LL. The pressure test is an effective
> in process check that must pass if the tank is to be leak free.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine mount |
Clive;
It would appear your engine mount is the item at fault dimensionally. This
is not surprising as the thermal stresses involved in welding up a complex
steel tube structure can cause a fair degree of "springback" later on. Some
variation in final size is normal and to be expected.
Why not see if there is there is sufficient "flex" in your mount to make it
match the firewall hole pattern as per the plans? A temporary cargo strap or
similar item might help hold the desired size when you are preparing and
installing it. The minor stresses set up in doing this will be much less
than those seen in service due G loading, etc. so should not be a factor in
the end.
If a really large size adjustment is needed, judicious application of heat
from an oxy-acetylene torch will assist in tweaking the size but an
experienced aircraft tubing guy should probably tackle this.
Jim oke
Wpg, Can.
RV-6A C-GKGZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw(at)ihug.co.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Engine mount
>
> A question from a Kiwi newbie. Currently in the process of building up
> the firewall of my slow build RV6 project and have struck a problem I'm
> hoping the list can provide some help with. I am using the (Vans
> supplied) engine mount to accurately locate the bolt holes. The mount
> lines up perfectly with the top two tooling holes and also with one of the
> pilot holes (#14) I have drilled for the bottom outside corner mounting
> points. The other corner of the mount is lower than the pilot hole by
> about 1/8". After some careful re-measuring I find my pilot holes are
> correctly positioned as per the plans, it is the engine mount that is
> slightly longer top to bottom on one side. At first glance this didn't
> present a problem until I realised that, if drilled to size the bolt head
> on the offending corner would interfere with the (correctly located) steel
> engine mount support. My question is, if I were to move the engine mount
> up by about 1/8" to 3/16" to create sufficient clearan!
> ce, would this cause problems elsewhere i.e. cowl interference, thrust
> line etc? If so, any suggestions for a fix?
>
>
> Clive Whittfield
>
> New Zealand
>
> RV6 wings, tail feathers done, fuselage started
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
I did my workshop with the Rustoleum 2-part epoxy, and am very
satisfied. No contest in the before and after comparison. It's durable,
easily cleaned and really brightens the interior. I live in the desert
so the orkshop gets a lot of wind-blown dust. Much easier to see and
sweep with the epoxy finish.
The key to success is careful adherence to the prep directions. Somewhat
a pain in the butt to keep going over the floor with a squeegee, but
worth the effort. I patched the cracks in the concrete - they "hide"
well under the epoxy but don't disappear. The confetti sprinkles are
easy to apply and provide a chance to customize the appearance. Work in
small segments and take your time. I did grey, but would do tan if I
could do over.
Paul Valovich
Ridgecrest, CA
RV-8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Derrick Aubuchon <n184da(at)volcano.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine mount |
If I remember correctly,,, while building my "very slow-build" RV4,, I
had a similar issue,, although I seem to recall it was probably a tad
worse.
As per the advice I had previously received from other builders at the
time, I did NOT drill any pilot holes in any of the six engine mount to
firewall locations.
I used the engine mount as a guide,, but in reference to your problem,
I do remember that none of the four tooling holes in the firewall
matched perfectly. What I did was to even-out the differences for all
four holes, before drilling through to the brackets.
Now,, depending on the size of your pre-drilled pilot holes, which I
assume you meant were drilled through the brackets along with the
firewall, this may not work for you.
And since the cowling as supplied at the time, was not even close to
fitting without some major re-work, the misalignment was not an issue
for the cowl.
Derrick L. Aubuchon
n184da(at)volcano.net
On Apr 4, 2005, at 8:24 AM, Jim Oke wrote:
>
> Clive;
>
> It would appear your engine mount is the item at fault dimensionally.
> This
> is not surprising as the thermal stresses involved in welding up a
> complex
> steel tube structure can cause a fair degree of "springback" later on.
> Some
> variation in final size is normal and to be expected.
>
> Why not see if there is there is sufficient "flex" in your mount to
> make it
> match the firewall hole pattern as per the plans? A temporary cargo
> strap or
> similar item might help hold the desired size when you are preparing
> and
> installing it. The minor stresses set up in doing this will be much
> less
> than those seen in service due G loading, etc. so should not be a
> factor in
> the end.
>
> If a really large size adjustment is needed, judicious application of
> heat
> from an oxy-acetylene torch will assist in tweaking the size but an
> experienced aircraft tubing guy should probably tackle this.
>
> Jim oke
> Wpg, Can.
> RV-6A C-GKGZ
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw(at)ihug.co.nz>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Engine mount
>
>
>>
>> A question from a Kiwi newbie. Currently in the process of building
>> up
>> the firewall of my slow build RV6 project and have struck a problem
>> I'm
>> hoping the list can provide some help with. I am using the (Vans
>> supplied) engine mount to accurately locate the bolt holes. The mount
>> lines up perfectly with the top two tooling holes and also with one
>> of the
>> pilot holes (#14) I have drilled for the bottom outside corner
>> mounting
>> points. The other corner of the mount is lower than the pilot hole by
>> about 1/8". After some careful re-measuring I find my pilot holes are
>> correctly positioned as per the plans, it is the engine mount that is
>> slightly longer top to bottom on one side. At first glance this
>> didn't
>> present a problem until I realised that, if drilled to size the bolt
>> head
>> on the offending corner would interfere with the (correctly located)
>> steel
>> engine mount support. My question is, if I were to move the engine
>> mount
>> up by about 1/8" to 3/16" to create sufficient clearan!
>> ce, would this cause problems elsewhere i.e. cowl interference, thrust
>> line etc? If so, any suggestions for a fix?
>>
>>
>> Clive Whittfield
>>
>> New Zealand
>>
>> RV6 wings, tail feathers done, fuselage started
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
Here's a couple of very interesting websites that the FAA is developing for
those of you who like to know all kinds of cool data and trivia...
www.nasdac.faa.gov
www.intlaviationstandards.org
W
search words: accident data, nomenclature, model designation rules
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Bienkowski <joeb47(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rental out of Tampa |
Hello All,
EZ does quote a good rate, but how do you get from
the airport to EZ's service counter???
Joe
Dana Overall wrote:
>
>Just a heads up if anyone wants a car out of Tampa for SNF. EZ Car Rental
>(I know, bargain basement:-) has "economy" vehicles for $12 and change per
>day, unlimited mileage. Sure hope all out camping stufrf and us kit in a
>KIA!!!!!
>
>For $12 bucks a day................I'll drive it and park it in the football
>field at Lakeland.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine mount |
Jim Oke wrote:
>
> Clive;
>
> It would appear your engine mount is the item at fault dimensionally.
> This
> is not surprising as the thermal stresses involved in welding up a
> complex
> steel tube structure can cause a fair degree of "springback" later on.
> Some
> variation in final size is normal and to be expected.
>
Mine did flex enough, give it a try!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio |
| From: | "Gould, Richard AE1 NAVTESTWINGPAC 561000E" <richard.j.gould(at)navy.mil> |
> No, they just shut it down for more on station time looking for us
> submariners.
> No contest . . . the submariners win every time!!
>
> Regards, Bob
There's a Russian Oscar sub-driver who may quietly deny that claim. Have ta kill
you if I told you about it though. Now-a-days, the only exciting flight I've
gotten to do is fly combat sorties over the Balkans and drug interdiction in
the Caribbean.
Besides, I doubt any airplane has ever been shotdown by a sub. I don't think subs
can make the same claim.
(Here we go, someone out there will probably correct me with a story about some
crazy German WWII sub-driver who shot down a PBY with Luger, or something....)
> Did your P-3 lose an engine?
Nope, its right where I left it!
In the old days, it was more common to look like this:
__I__
--X--O--( )--O--X--
I remember a story of an EA-6B driver that flew with us one time and we went to
loiter #1 (shut it down for fuel) and offered to let him shut it down. Even after
insisting that it was okay, he wouldn't do it. "I'm used to having all engines
running--That just ain't natural!" was something along the lines of his
comment. The FE smiles, calls, "Check me One!", Pilot: "You got one!", and the
FE yanks the E-Handle. 5 seconds later, #1 is X'd.
You're jaw would probably drop if I told you haw many times I've made an emergency
3-engine landing....I've lost count!
Ho hum...house hunting on Whidbey Island for something with a garage to build.
Anyone got hangar space up here?!
Rick
"I love the smell of JP-8 in the morning. It smells like.....Lockheed!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine mount |
In a message dated 4/4/05 3:45:03 AM Pacific Daylight Time, cazw(at)ihug.co.nz
writes:
> <>
>
> Clive: Yes! Call, fax or E-mail Van's with the information you just
> provided and ask their advice.
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6, 56 hours and loving every minute of it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | FAB airbox line up with induction scoop |
Tom,
I have an older RV-6A about to fly with the same separate induction
scoop and an AFP fuel injection. Like your Lycoming, my carb/fuel
controller is offset to the left of the engine centerline an inch or so.
I mounted the induction scoop on the lower cowl centerline and shifted
the top plate of the FAB to align it with the scoop. The AFP provided
top plate will turn on the AFP fuel controller to allow the FAB to be
aimed right or left a few degrees - just loosen the Allen screw on the
AFP top plate collar.
I have an 0-320 and ordered the 0-320 scoop from Vans. However, it would
not fit as the AFP fuel controller is about an inch deeper than a carb.
I had to use an 0-360 scoop which fit with only minor modifications to
the lower cowl indentations. I turned the top plate about 5 degrees
right to aim the FAB directly at the scoop entrance. Air will have to
jog a bit to the left as it enters the FAB, but you can't see the
difference from the outside and I can't see how the "jog" will have any
effect on induction air flow. Sure a lot easier than remaking the top
plate or mounting the scoop off-center.
Charlie
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
----------------------------------------------------
> From: sarg314
> Subject: RV-List: FAB airbox line up with induction scoop
>
>
> My RV-6A kit is about 5 years old and the induction scoop is separate
> from the lower cowl. I have to bond it in. The lower cowl has a
> depression molded into it to accept the "flange" of the induction
> scoop. I learned yesterday that the carbuerator mounting location on a
> Lycoming is not on the centerline but is offset to the left a 1/2 or 3/4
> of an inch, relative to the cowl, anyway.
>
> One could mount the induction scoop to the lower cowl shifted off center
> a bit to make it line up with the carb (well, with the AFP fuel
> controller in my case).
>
> But one could also compensate for this by making a new top plate for the
> Filtered Air Box that has the central mounting hole displaced to the
> left by half an inch. Do people normally do this? Is this a bad idea?
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | External Power Socket |
G'day all,
Has anyone installed an external power socket on their RV (for charging,
jump starting after leaving master on, etc).
If so, what, where, how? Other thoughts?
Many thanks,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: External Power Socket |
I put a cigarette lighter that goes direct to the batt buss with a 20 amp
fuse. I carry a cig. lighter plug, in my canopy cover bag, so I can hook a
charger to it. I cut the negative wire off the charging plug and hook the
charger to the airframe and the red to the wire on the plug to prevent
getting a polarity reversal.
The only problem is, I have to remember to unplug my XM WX
Receiver/Computer power supply when I shutdown, or I have to use the cig
lighter plug for charging.
Works great.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Lewis" <rv10(at)tpg.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: External Power Socket
>
> G'day all,
>
> Has anyone installed an external power socket on their RV (for charging,
> jump starting after leaving master on, etc).
>
> If so, what, where, how? Other thoughts?
>
> Many thanks,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Draper <rv8tor(at)gmail.com> |
Listers:
I am interested in getting some opinions on Todd's Canopies. In
particular opinions from anyone who has built or flown with the
standard Vans canopy and also with one of Todd's.
What is the benefit of going with a canopy from Todd vs. one from Vans?
Thanks in advance for any comments.
-Mike Draper
RV-8 QB fuse
Bridgewater, MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: External Power Socket |
I have one that I got from SafeAir1 - comes with the charger.....
>
> G'day all,
>
> Has anyone installed an external power socket on their RV (for charging,
> jump starting after leaving master on, etc).
>
> If so, what, where, how? Other thoughts?
>
> Many thanks,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
> Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Todd's Canopies |
I have a custom-made canopy from Todd for my F1 flop-over and he went
completely out of his way to make the canopy with the profile I was
looking for. His price was very reasonable and there's not a flaw in
the canopy. I'm very pleased with it.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 600+ hours F1 under const.
On Apr 5, 2005 11:16 AM, Mike Draper wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> I am interested in getting some opinions on Todd's Canopies. In
> particular opinions from anyone who has built or flown with the
> standard Vans canopy and also with one of Todd's.
>
> What is the benefit of going with a canopy from Todd vs. one from Vans?
>
> Thanks in advance for any comments.
>
> -Mike Draper
> RV-8 QB fuse
> Bridgewater, MA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | propellor protection |
Have any of you used the propeller tape to protect your prop from chips? After
only 80 hours of time on my new prop, it looks like somebody sandblasted the leading
edge. Aircraft Spruce has a tape called "Prop Guard" for around 50 bucks.
I was thinking about dressing my prop and putting some of this stuff on, but
though I would ask your collective opinions on this stuff. After making some
inquires, I have discovered it is useless to ask the city to sweep the city owned
airport with the city owned street sweeper.....that would cost too many city
owned dollars. Any other suggestions appreciated. (my prop is fixed pitch
aluminum)
Thanks....
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: propellor protection |
I put "Prop Guard" on my Warnke wood prop. It went on easily and
appeared that it would stay. No problems that way. BUT, the Warnke prop
didn't "like" the tape...performace went out the window...I have been
told that the Warnke prop operates close to stall and the tape put it
over the edge...rpms went way, way, up and airspeed way, way, down. Same
thing happened when I tried the perforated tape idea that was talked
about a few years ago.
If your prop isn't so critical the Prop Guard seems to be a reasonable
thing to try.
John at Salida, CO
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
>Have any of you used the propeller tape to protect your prop from chips? After
only 80 hours of time on my new prop, it looks like somebody sandblasted the
leading edge. Aircraft
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: External Power Socket |
Check out the following link for some ideas:
http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/extpwr.htm
I doubt I will do it exactly the same way but I do like the concept of external
power, rapid
charging an light weight switching PSUs.
Doug Gray
Scott Lewis wrote:
>
> G'day all,
>
> Has anyone installed an external power socket on their RV (for charging,
> jump starting after leaving master on, etc).
>
> If so, what, where, how? Other thoughts?
>
> Many thanks,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Polishing scratches |
What is the best way to eliminate minor surface defects and scratches in aluminum
then buff same to a very high luster? I have used 2000 grit wet or dry to
remove scratches on the affected airframe areas then applied Nuvite in one section
and Mothers aluminum polish in another. I then buff out using a dedicated
wool bonnet attached to my DeWalt electric buffer. I really can't say which product
produces the highest luster. Both seem the same to me. In any event, I
am still not happy with the depth of luster when compared to a pristine and polished
alclad surface right next to it. What techniques should I be using to
make the aluminum shine as bright as it possibly can?
Rick Galati RV-6A "finished, not yet flying"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Polishing scratches |
Rick Galati wrote:
>
> What is the best way to eliminate minor surface defects and scratches
> in aluminum then buff same to a very high luster? I have used 2000
> grit wet or dry to remove scratches on the affected airframe areas
> then applied Nuvite in one section and Mothers aluminum polish in
> another. I then buff out using a dedicated wool bonnet attached to my
> DeWalt electric buffer. I really can't say which product produces the
> highest luster. Both seem the same to me. In any event, I am still
> not happy with the depth of luster when compared to a pristine and
> polished alclad surface right next to it. What techniques should I
> be using to make the aluminum shine as bright as it possibly can?
Rick, I came across this link while researching polishing methods for my
StalkerV6 kit car:
http://www.irinfo.com/polish/html/polish.html
The Swift owners have polishing down to a fine art. There is also a lot
of info in the Airstream travel trailer community. Some Googling in that
area will give you a lot of info.
Bottom line, a mirror finish is a LOT of work! :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: External Power Socket |
Hi Scott,
I installed an external power socket for all the reasons you mentioned
including its being able to handle starting currents. I followed Bob
Nuckells article that he published on the Aeroelectric web site. It uses
either a Piper or Cessna version of connectors. I mounted the receptacle
on the right side near the firewall. I'll send you a photo, if you are
interested. It has its own circuitry with a contactor, a breaker switch
and an overvoltage protection for both overvoltage and reversed
polarity. The circuitry is connected to the battery contactor with leads
capable of starting currents. I use it whenever I want to run the
electrical system for an extenced time in the hanger. It is ready if I
should want to charge the battery and could be used to jump start away
from home since the connector is relatively common.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A, 17 hours of testing in Phase I
Scott Lewis wrote:
>
>G'day all,
>
>Has anyone installed an external power socket on their RV (for charging,
>jump starting after leaving master on, etc).
>
>If so, what, where, how? Other thoughts?
>
>Many thanks,
>Scott Lewis
>RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
>Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Osburn" <flyby41(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | propellor protection |
I was told by a local prop shop....."Don't dress/ file off the sandblasted
edges". It hardens the surface like shot peening. You will be filing away
good prop material and shortening the life of your prop. I'm not talking
about not filing deep chips and nicks, rather the fine sandblasted surface.
But by all means do what you want. I'm no expert, this is second hand.
The
guy at the prop shop says he just loves it when poeple go crazy with files.
He also likes it when poeple leave thier tow bars attached to the front
wheel. You nose wheelers you. There was one more thing that kept him in
business but can't remember right now what it was? A senior moment I guess.
> [Original Message]
> From: Evan and Megan Johnson <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
> To:
> Date: 4/5/2005 9:59:27 AM
> Subject: RV-List: propellor protection
>
>
> Have any of you used the propeller tape to protect your prop from chips?
After only 80 hours of time on my new prop, it looks like somebody
sandblasted the leading edge. Aircraft Spruce has a tape called "Prop
Guard" for around 50 bucks. I was thinking about dressing my prop and
putting some of this stuff on, but though I would ask your collective
opinions on this stuff. After making some inquires, I have discovered it is
useless to ask the city to sweep the city owned airport with the city owned
street sweeper.....that would cost too many city owned dollars. Any other
suggestions appreciated. (my prop is fixed pitch aluminum)
> Thanks....
>
> Evan Johnson
> www.evansaviationproducts.com
> (530)247-0375
> (530)351-1776 cell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight of N342BM |
Bert,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: bertrv6(at)highstream.net
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight of N342BM
>Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 10:47:33 -0400
>
>
>Hi:
>
> After four years of work, finally there was nothing else left, but to
>get
>ready for the flight test...a first experience.. and a lesson..
>
> On Sunday April 3rd. 2005, at 9:15 AM. RV6A N-342BM took to the air,
>from
>Orlando/Sanford Airport, Runway 27R. Clear with some wind 7 -10 Kts.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | propellor protection |
Evan,
We installed " Prop Guard " tape about 3 years ago and have put 250+ hours
on our C/S prop. The Prop looks new - we also have the same problem except
the State will not sweep the taxi or runways. I'd recommend it. In addition
it is easy to install, with fine guide lines marked on the tape.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: propellor protection
>Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 10:11:31 -0700
>
>
>
>Have any of you used the propeller tape to protect your prop from chips?
>After only 80 hours of time on my new prop, it looks like somebody
>sandblasted the leading edge. Aircraft Spruce has a tape called "Prop
>Guard" for around 50 bucks. I was thinking about dressing my prop and
>putting some of this stuff on, but though I would ask your collective
>opinions on this stuff. After making some inquires, I have discovered it is
>useless to ask the city to sweep the city owned airport with the city owned
>street sweeper.....that would cost too many city owned dollars. Any other
>suggestions appreciated. (my prop is fixed pitch aluminum)
>Thanks....
>
>Evan Johnson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <rv6builder48138(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Source of supply - Mar-hyde primer (spray can) |
For the life of me, I can't find a source on line or
locally (downriver Detroit area, southern Wayne
County) for Mar-hyde primer in the spray can. I've
called around to auto body repair places and hardware
stores, no one seems to carry it. Can anyone help me?
John
RV-6 (left wing)
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Belt Buckles on Van's Website |
I am happy to tell you that Van's Aircraft is now selling my Solid Brass buckles on their website. http://vansaircraft.com/
You can still order these, or the Nickel or two tone Nickel and Gold buckles directly off of my website also. I have posted more customer comments on my site, please feel free to check it out. http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
Glenn Brasch -9A fuselage, Tucson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source of supply - Mar-hyde primer (spray can) |
OReilly Auto Parts carries Mar-Hyde #5111 Single Stage Self Etching Primer in Light
Gray.
It's an excellent product... have used it for 13+ years. You can also contact the
Bondo Corp and they will give you a list of distributors.
Hope this helps...
John Lawson wrote:
For the life of me, I can't find a source on line or
locally (downriver Detroit area, southern Wayne
County) for Mar-hyde primer in the spray can. I've
called around to auto body repair places and hardware
stores, no one seems to carry it. Can anyone help me?
John
RV-6 (left wing)
__________________________________
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A #70125
N622DR (reserved)
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glaesers" <glaesers(at)wideopenwest.com> |
| Subject: | Source of supply - Mar-hyde primer (spray can) |
John,
Wicks has it:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=3591/index.html
Dennis Glaeser
a few miles north in Rochester Hills MI
planning to start an RV-7A in a few months...
-----------------
For the life of me, I can't find a source on line or
locally (downriver Detroit area, southern Wayne
County) for Mar-hyde primer in the spray can. I've
called around to auto body repair places and hardware
stores, no one seems to carry it. Can anyone help me?
John
RV-6 (left wing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source of supply - Mar-hyde primer (spray can) |
If you can find it local it will be cheaper in the long run, Hazardous Chemical
shipping can be very expensive... cost prohibitive...
John,
Wicks has it:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=3591/index.html
Dennis Glaeser
a few miles north in Rochester Hills MI
planning to start an RV-7A in a few months...
-----------------
For the life of me, I can't find a source on line or
locally (downriver Detroit area, southern Wayne
County) for Mar-hyde primer in the spray can. I've
called around to auto body repair places and hardware
stores, no one seems to carry it. Can anyone help me?
John
RV-6 (left wing)
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A #70125
N622DR (reserved)
---------------------------------
Show us what our next emoticon should look like. Join the fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight of N342BM |
In a message dated 4/5/2005 9:11:27 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
bertrv6(at)highstream.net writes:
The static system, pitot were checked. Instrument failure.
Good flight, good experience...
Now to buy a new AIS, different mfg.
=====================================
I just don't understand builders buying those pieces of s**t from Falcon
Gauge. If you want a gauge that tells you information that you can trust, pay
for a decent one. If you can't afford a gauge that will tell you the truth,
leave the panel hole empty until you can. Under certain dire circumstances
your safety, aircraft and our insurance premiums are at stake here. We need
for our flying machines and their systems to be reliable.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Dual P-Mags, Flying 737hrs, Silicon Valley,
CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | External Power Socket |
Yes, on an RV-8a. Piper style, under the belly just aft of the step. Out
of sight and arranged so the door opens down and forward (that way the wind
will aid the spring should it ever weaken). Fabricated a doubler from .063
aluminum to strengthen the belly skin. With the battery located in the rear
this works well.
Vince
>From: Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: External Power Socket
>Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 21:58:22 +0930
>
>
>G'day all,
>
>Has anyone installed an external power socket on their RV (for charging,
>jump starting after leaving master on, etc).
>
>If so, what, where, how? Other thoughts?
>
>Many thanks,
>Scott Lewis
>RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
>Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Source of supply - Mar-hyde primer (spray can) |
John,
I just switched to Sherwin Williams 988 in the can it is great stuff!!! I
used to use the Mar-Hyde.
I found it in the phone book in Portland under Sherwin Williams Automotive.
We just painted all the rudder parts for the RV-10 with it and it is very
durable and dries fast. I might never mix primer or clean a gun again!
Rob Hickman
N401RH RV-4
N402RH RV-10
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight of N342BM |
Bert: Congratulations. both on your first flight and for keeping your
cool in a difficult situation.
Harry Crosby
RV-6, 56 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Rental out of Tampa |
>>>Just a heads up if anyone wants a car out of Tampa for SNF.
>>>EZ Car Rental
>>>(I know, bargain basement:-) has "economy" vehicles for $12
>>>and change per
>>>day, unlimited mileage. Sure hope all out camping stufrf and
>>>us kit in a
>>>KIA!!!!!
>>
>>Be careful, the taxes will probably be more than the rental.
>
>
> Total cost for Thursday, Friday, Saturday....back on Sunday, with taxes
> $57.77
That's only about $94.00 cheaper than my
super-good-guy-big-corporation Hertz rate for
the same time period out of Orlando for a
micro-car. Oh well.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: External Power Socket |
I accomlished the same thing with an old heavy-gauge extension cord.
Cut it in half, attached the + and - wires to the battery. Hang the
plug so it is accesable through the oil door. The other half of the
cord is modified to attach to a charger, and is carried in the
"emergency tool kit" in the plane at all times. Won't handle jump
starting currents, but you shouldn't launch with a completely dead
battery anyway.
Lighter and cheaper and easier than a power receptacle, especially for
something you will use only very occasionally.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
Due to long wait time to get these, I had my mags OH'd and am considering getting
in line to buy E/P mags but wanted to see how they were working for the ones
who have rec and installed them. Last I saw, several had them on order. Pls
reply via my e-mail if you can. cheathco(at)comcast.net Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
| Subject: | propeller protection |
Chuck,
I wonder if one could use UHMW tape? From "The List" on Van's web site:
TAPE UHMW 3"X10' CLEAR UHMW 4/6/7/8 $11.00
It doesn't have the center line, but I'll bet it's the same stuff....
Fred Stucklen
From: "Charles Rowbotham" < crowbotham(at)hotmail.com
>
Subject: propeller protection
crowbotham(at)hotmail.com >
Evan,
We installed " Prop Guard " tape about 3 years ago and have put 250+
hours
on our C/S prop. The Prop looks new - we also have the same problem
except
the State will not sweep the taxi or runways. I'd recommend it. In
addition
it is easy to install, with fine guide lines marked on the tape.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: External power socket |
>Has anyone installed an external power socket on their RV (for
charging,
>jump starting after leaving master on, etc).If so, what, where, how?
Other >thoughts?
I used a connector for trailer hookup on a car/truck that is used for
hooking up trailer lights. I have it on the left side of the console and
have the wires placed to avoid pole reversal. It is lightweight,
inexpensive, readily available, unobtrusive and can be mounted
externally if necessary. The 'female' socket only goes in one way, and
can handle charging currents without worry about over-amping the wires.
It is wired directly to the battery with a 30 amp fuse in the way. I
carry the charging attachment with me (female plug) and have used it on
the road once. Wouldn't be without it, especially in a -4 where the
battery is buried under the radio stack and center console.
The 'male' fitting that goes on the console (or wherever) needs to be
covered (simple aluminum plate) as this is a live connection and can
short out if touched by, say, a leg zipper on a flight suit. Ask me how
I know that. Gets your attention right away. The fuse needs to be easily
accessible.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Burden <hootsnik(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Listers,
I am nearing the engine phase on my RV9A project and need some info prior to deciding
on the final configuration of the power plant.
Current plans for my ECI Lyc clone call for a Plasma III electronic ignition on
one side and a standard mag on the other. The Lightspeed has a seperate computer
controller which has to be mounted in the cabin which creates some complexity
and adds weight while the emag is self contained. There is also an attractive
difference in the cost of the emag vs the Lightspeed.
What I don't have is any real world performance/reliability info regarding the
emag/pmag system. Anybody out there have an emag or the emag/pmag combo with
significant time on them who can share some real world experience: time on system,
install difficulty, failure rate, performance, would you buy again, what
about customer support?
Cheers,
db
ps. I checked the archive--limited info.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: External power socket |
Michael,
Why didn't you install the female fitting in the aircraft? For safety
reasons almost every other type of appliance and electrical recepticals has
the female portion mounted with the contacts sheilded from accidently
contact. Was there a reason for doing it your way?
Wayne
>
>>Has anyone installed an external power socket on their RV (for
> charging,
>>jump starting after leaving master on, etc).If so, what, where, how?
> Other >thoughts?
>
> I used a connector for trailer hookup on a car/truck that is used for
> hooking up trailer lights. I have it on the left side of the console and
> have the wires placed to avoid pole reversal. It is lightweight,
> inexpensive, readily available, unobtrusive and can be mounted
> externally if necessary. The 'female' socket only goes in one way, and
> can handle charging currents without worry about over-amping the wires.
> It is wired directly to the battery with a 30 amp fuse in the way. I
> carry the charging attachment with me (female plug) and have used it on
> the road once. Wouldn't be without it, especially in a -4 where the
> battery is buried under the radio stack and center console.
>
> The 'male' fitting that goes on the console (or wherever) needs to be
> covered (simple aluminum plate) as this is a live connection and can
> short out if touched by, say, a leg zipper on a flight suit. Ask me how
> I know that. Gets your attention right away. The fuse needs to be easily
> accessible.
>
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 04/05/05 |
| From: | james f george <rv4george(at)juno.com> |
Hi All:
It is best to do let downs at about 4000 or 5000 feet on the
first flight. You not only get
used to the plane but also reveal any faults that show up. You can't hit
the ground up there.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: External power socket |
My plane has a single Positive connecting wire at the bottom of the cowl.
Negative is the exhaust. Hook up the charger to those two points and you
can recharge. Simple. Light weight.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
I have perhaps 400 hours on a Plasma III and would install it again.
Works great. Control box is in the engine compartment on the firewall.
One problem that was apparently some sort of pin connection issue that
cleared after reseating the connector. Support was great during the
troubleshooting period.
As far as weight, add up the total for the plasma and the emag unit and
compare.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source of supply - Mar-hyde primer (spray can) |
I recall a top coat of paint is needed over the SW 988 primer.
Friends are like angels who lift us to our feet
when our wings have trouble remembering how to fly....unknown
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up
>
> John,
>
> I just switched to Sherwin Williams 988 in the can it is great stuff!!!
> I
> used to use the Mar-Hyde.
>
> I found it in the phone book in Portland under Sherwin Williams
> Automotive.
>
> We just painted all the rudder parts for the RV-10 with it and it is very
> durable and dries fast. I might never mix primer or clean a gun again!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "czechsix(at)juno.com" <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Polishing scratches |
Rick,
I hate to even suggest this, but are you sure you didn't sand/buff through the
thin alclad layer in an effort to remove the scratches? It doesn't take very
much, and unfortunately if you did, it will NEVER buff out to the same high luster
as the surrounding alclad...even if you get it just as smooth, the aluminum
alloy has a slightly darker color to it than the pure aluminum on the surface.
I hope this is not your problem but if it is, you'll just have to make it
shine as well as you can and live with it : (
I have a polished spinner for my -8A and that's enough polish for me! Anything
more and you have to be a real masochist to maintain it...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D wiring...
From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Polishing scratches
What is the best way to eliminate minor surface defects and scratches in aluminum
then buff same to a very high luster? I have used 2000 grit wet or dry to
remove scratches on the affected airframe areas then applied Nuvite in one section
and Mothers aluminum polish in another. I then buff out using a dedicated
wool bonnet attached to my DeWalt electric buffer. I really can't say which product
produces the highest luster. Both seem the same to me. In any event, I
am still not happy with the depth of luster when compared to a pristine and polished
alclad surface right next to it. What techniques should I be using to
make the aluminum shine as bright as it possibly can?
Rick Galati RV-6A "finished, not yet flying"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clive Whittfield" <cazw(at)ihug.co.nz> |
Many thanks to those who replied to my question about the engine mount. I also
put the question to Vans who recommended moving the mount up the required 1/8"
to provide bolt clearance. I have decided to do this and all seems to be well
so far. For those who suggested 'tweaking' the mount to fit with cargo straps
etc, I doubt this would work on this particular mount as there are tubes welded
vertically and horizontally between the mounting holes that would not allow
any movement (Dynafocal mount on plan 50). This thing is solid!
Clive Whittfield RV6 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: propeller protection |
Here's the real deal on the prop tape from someone who's been
there........Don't waste your time with the UHMW tape...it's NOT the same....not
even close.
The 'prop' tape is soft and pliable, the UHMW is hard and stiff. The UHMW tape
WILL start to peel on the edges in VERY short order.
OK.....I've run the course on the prop tape. I use the 'less expensive' type
that is MADE FOR PROPS.
I get my tape from Tennessee Props in Tennessee. Ask for Larry....tell him
'the RV guy from Ohio sent you'.....smile.
The first 2 times I put the tape on it came off in about 7-8 hours of flying.
Actually, it didn't come off but it started to separate from one blade near
the tip and I just ripped it off. I was using PPG 330 solvent to prep the prop
before applying the tape. On the 3rd (and final so far) attempt I used
isopropyl alcohol as recommended by Larry and the tape has now been on for about
100
hours and is still holding like the day I put it on and IMO it looks great.
One BIG tip......radius the 'corners' before you put the tape on......looks
nice and prevents the 'corner' (now radiused) from lifting.
Bottom line is I like the way the tape protects my leading edge and even if
it comes off tomorrow I'll replace it with new. My Hartzell leading edge looks
like new after 100hrs....no nicks, scratches, or blemishes on the leading
edge....period.
However.....from trial/error AND speed tests I am very confident that my
O-360 Hartzell C/S RV6 is about 5-7 mph FASTER with NO prop tape. That said I'm
still leaving it on.
I 'think' Larry charges 2 bucks per foot for the tape.
Here's a link to the website.....I can't find the tape on there but he has
it. Just call the phone number and he'll send it right out. Buy about 8 ft for
$16 bucks + shipping and you can do your prop 2 times.
http://www.tn-prop.com/
You can also spend a BUNCH more buckaroos and get the REAL DEAL tape that is
made for the metal prop (my opinion.....NO THANKS)......it's basically the
same 3M tape near as I can tell but twice the money. It's called "Prop
Guard"......Spruce sells it on page 168 of the 2005 catalog.....or go here:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/propguard.php
Looks like ~$50 bucks with shipping.
The are both 3M tape........Tennessee Prop stuff may be a tad 'thicker'.
Also, I had the SAME experience as the other gent with the tape on my
previous Warnke prop (love that Hartzell).......I lost 10mph on the top end and
500'
to 600' on the rate of climb.....right now!! I could live with the speed loss
but not the rate of climb....no thanks.....I took it off.
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/
Chuck,
I wonder if one could use UHMW tape? From "The List" on Van's web site:
TAPE UHMW 3"X10' CLEAR UHMW 4/6/7/8 $11.00
It doesn't have the center line, but I'll bet it's the same stuff....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | S_N_F Vans get together ?? |
Any plans for a get together at Sun-N-Fun ??
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi folks,
Just got done bolting the center hinge to the horizontal stabilizer. Figured
out when it looked funny that I used the wrong washers. Changed them for the
correct ones and then got to worrying if it is okay to use the same nylon
locking nuts again. Thoughts?
Michael
RV8
Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Reusing nuts? |
On Wed, 6 Apr 2005 MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
--snip--
> got to worrying if it is okay to use the same nylon locking nuts again.
> Thoughts?
Michael:
AC 43.13 says, "When fiber-type self-locking nuts are reused, check the fiber
carefully to make sure it has not lost its locking friction or become brittle.
Do not reuse locknuts if they can be run up finger-tight."
Carroll Smith ("Prepare to Win") says, "They [nylon locknuts] are reusable
almost indefinitely. The rule of thumb is that if the steel thread is not
visibly damaged and you cannot turn the nylon locking ring onto the bolt with
your fingers, it is OK."
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Langley Fly-in 2005 |
The fourth annual Langley (BC) Fly-in will be held on Saturday, June 4, 2005,
at the Langley Township Regional Airport (CYNJ). Langley is about 20 nm
northwest of Bellingham, WA.
This is the annual fly-in for the Western Canada Wing.
Keep an eye on the Fly-in web page for details,
http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ
U.S. visitors will find a link there to Randall Henderson's excellent web page
that tells you everything you need to know about flying to Canada and returning
to the U.S. We love to have U.S. RVers fly in, and I hope to see many of you
there again this year.
---
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | AOA with Microcontroller... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Has anyone created an AOA using a Microcontroller such as the PIC, AVR or Basic
Stamp?
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Engine Mount |
I shot a Thanksgiving weekend on this one Clive. I have an RV-6A and waited
until I got my engine mount to drill the firewall holes. Problem was, the
upper left motor mount mounting boss was too high and if I just drilled it
through the firewall I'd also have interference of the bolt head with the
firewall weldment. So I talked to people on the phone, visited a few
projects and realized that those folks who took it on faith that the mount
would line up and went ahead and drilled pilot holes for jigging, without
having the motor mount, often had problems later that resulted in having to
final drill the mount offset one way or another.
So I came away thinking I'd just move all the mounting holes down until the
top mounting hole had sufficient clearance. Ha...ya right, I measured down
and realized I could only move the bottom down about 1/8 to 3/16 before I'd
start having troubles with clearance on the BOTTOM bolt hole. So I looked
at the prints and measured the firewall bracket locations and the motor
mount bolt hole locations and...just my luck, both the mounting bosses and
the firewall brackets were out of tolerance in opposite directions. This
really exacerbated the problem.
Now really upset that I wasted 3-4 days with this (when I was expecting to
drill the firewall and mount it on the jig and get on with some serious
fuselage construction), I took the whole thing down to Van's and plopped it
on their counter. I wanted THEM to fix the bracket on the firewall so that
the mount would actually fit. After all it was their vendors (or them)
who'd screwed both things up to begin with and I'd already paid them to
fabricate this part in the first place. They wouldn't do that but instead,
offered to give me a new steel weldment to replace the culprit on the back
of the firewall (gee thanks). They also suggested one other thing and that
was to see if the mount had enough play in it to allow the hole to be
drilled slightly offset to obtain the needed bolt clearance.
Needless to say, I left there very unhappy but went home to see if the mount
had any play to work with. Fortunately the -6A motor mount has both upper
arms independent at the firewall (no interconnecting tubes between them and
the lower arms as on the taildragger mount) and viola, if I clamped the
other mounting bosses to the firewall I could move the upper left mounting
arm down just enough to make the hole clear. So I held it in that position
and marked the hole. Then measured to make sure I had the clearance and
finally drilled. Now that I've mounted the mount, it has a small amount of
preload on the upper left arm. But steel is capable of handling this and I
can move it to that position by hand so it's not like there is a lot of
force on it. Nonetheless, it was just one more frustration in the process
of building that I could have done without (parts that could have been
designed with a bit more clearance or prefab parts that required major
modification, ask me about my canopy frame). Hope you can make your motor
mount work, I'd hate to think about having to rework a firewall weldment
after riveting the fuselage together!! Yes Sam, you can thank me again for
getting all the out-of-tolerance parts in my kit.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Wiring and plumbing
From: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw(at)ihug.co.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Engine mount
A question from a Kiwi newbie. ...........if drilled to size the bolt
head on the offending corner would interfere with the (correctly located)
steel engine mount support.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
You folks running fuel injected engines and especially you guys with Airflow
Performance pump and filter....are you using a gascolater in the fuel line
and if so where and what has your experience been with it? A fellow RV-9A
builder suggested that he would probably eliminate the gascolater because
the AFP filter is very good and the gascolator is yet another item of line
friction (along with the multiple 180 degree tubing bends in the AFP
installation in the side by side airplanes) that he suspects may make for
possible vapor lock conditions on hot days. What are your experiences with
this set up? Would you recommend leaving the gascolator off with the AFP
fuel filter or .....what? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Getting off my previous rant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Michael,
They are most likely ok - But - with the cost on the nut so little, we
decided at the beginning to use them only once. Cheap insurance - one less
thing to have second thoughts. We also applied a small amount of Torque-Seal
for to confirm that the nut was tighten and torqued.
Good Building,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Reusing nuts?
>Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 23:03:17 EDT
>
>
>Hi folks,
>
>Just got done bolting the center hinge to the horizontal stabilizer.
>Figured
>out when it looked funny that I used the wrong washers. Changed them for
>the
>correct ones and then got to worrying if it is okay to use the same nylon
>locking nuts again. Thoughts?
>
>Michael
>RV8
>Empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
You can get away with using the same nylock nuts provided that the nylon
insert still has its holding power. BUT.....for critical flight controls
like you are talking I don't recommend it, especially considering the small
cost of a nylock nut.
Mike Robertson
>From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Reusing nuts?
>Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 23:03:17 EDT
>
>
>Hi folks,
>
>Just got done bolting the center hinge to the horizontal stabilizer.
>Figured
>out when it looked funny that I used the wrong washers. Changed them for
>the
>correct ones and then got to worrying if it is okay to use the same nylon
>locking nuts again. Thoughts?
>
>Michael
>RV8
>Empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Funny you shoudl mention it Dean. We have the gascolator installed on Joe's
plane with the AFP fuel injection, pumps and inline filter. The inline
filter is very good and I have not seen anything get to the gascolator in
over 200 hours of flying now. And I do experience a loss of fuel pressure
every once in a while. I have noticed that it happens more during warm
OATs. We are in the process of changing the fuel pump but I think I am
going to remove the gascolator also. My thoughts are that the gascolator
may be causing a slight increase in line resistatnce. That line resistance
is just enough to slow down the fuel flow just enogh to also the fuel to
vapor lock on occassion inside the fuel pump. Because the fuel pump gets
conductive heating from the engine case, if the fuel slows down just a
little it may be casuing a vapor situation inside the fuel pump leading to
the loss in fuel pressure.
I plan on doing a little more testing to make sure. I am going to change
the fuel pump first and fly a while before I remove the gascolator.
MIke Robertson
>From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Gascolater
>Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 02:39:42 -0400
>
>
>
>You folks running fuel injected engines and especially you guys with
>Airflow
>Performance pump and filter....are you using a gascolater in the fuel line
>and if so where and what has your experience been with it? A fellow RV-9A
>builder suggested that he would probably eliminate the gascolater because
>the AFP filter is very good and the gascolator is yet another item of line
>friction (along with the multiple 180 degree tubing bends in the AFP
>installation in the side by side airplanes) that he suspects may make for
>possible vapor lock conditions on hot days. What are your experiences with
>this set up? Would you recommend leaving the gascolator off with the AFP
>fuel filter or .....what? Thanks.
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Getting off my previous rant
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Dean-
I agree that gascolators are of somewhat limited value in general, but also
feel that they are relatively good at catching water. Having less than
fond memories of flush fuel caps and rainy days, I elected to keep one in
my system. If the AFP filter will in fact stop water, it will also take a
tiny fraction of the capacity of the gascolator to plug it. If it doesn't
stop water, then it's ineffective in this role. In either case, the
gascolator gets drained each flight, or at least each fill-up. The filter
gets cleaned once a year. As far as being an impediment to fuel flow, I
have 2 fuel pumps and no anecdotal evidence to support that being a valid
concern.
Having agonized over all the same location issues you bring up, I had a
flash of inspiration and mounted my gascolator in the left wing root. The
drain is now basically adjacent to the tank drain and much more accessible
than a fire wall mount. No thermal / vapor lock issues, and should it
leak, it's nowhere near the exhaust stream. I was pretty pleased with
myself, until researching another issue led me to find an old article by
none other than Eustace Bowhay in an old RVator suggesting the same
installation. Ahh, well. Yet another wheel reinvented...
On a tangential subject, and FWIW, I had a miserable time with the return
fuel line in my 8 (TD). The plans call for it to run back through the
gear tower to a T at the selector valve. To fabricate a decent line and
get it, the fuel supply line, and their vinyl cushioning through that
overstuffed hole in the gear tower without either mangling the line or
enlarging the hole was beyond my feeble talents. So, I did some more
research. It seems that the length of tubing called for in this segment of
the installation is really only there to act as a heat exchanger. This is
to preclude vapor lock during extended boost pump ops. Armed with that
knowledge, I took an equal length of fuel line and bent it up into a big
"S" shaped radiator and mounted it above the fuel pump package and Teed it
back into the gascolator - filter line near the filter inlet.
I hope this is of some use-
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
> From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Gascolater
>
>
> You folks running fuel injected engines and especially you guys with
Airflow
> Performance pump and filter....are you using a gascolater in the fuel line
> and if so where and what has your experience been with it? A fellow RV-9A
> builder suggested that he would probably eliminate the gascolater because
> the AFP filter is very good and the gascolator is yet another item of line
> friction (along with the multiple 180 degree tubing bends in the AFP
> installation in the side by side airplanes) that he suspects may make for
> possible vapor lock conditions on hot days. What are your experiences
with
> this set up? Would you recommend leaving the gascolator off with the AFP
> fuel filter or .....what? Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Getting off my previous rant
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | External power socket |
Howdy-
I mounted a piper style socket A/C right in the belly, just aft of the
bulkhead behind the battery on my aft-battery -8. This allows for jump
starting, battery charging, and unlimited in - the - hangar tinkering with
my all - electric airplane. I made a right angle doubler that rivets to
the bulkhead and the skin. This also mounts the contactor. External power
to the socket closes the contactor, a diode in the contactor to ground bus
line protects against reverse polarity, and one of Eric Jones' OVM's
protects against over voltage. The aft-of-the-trailing edge location of
the socket keeps rampies out of the prop arc, and the belly (vice cockpit)
location allows me to stay dry. You do realize, of course, that the only
time you'll ever need a jump is when it's cold and rainy, right? ;-)
FWIW-
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
> >
> >>Has anyone installed an external power socket on their RV (for
> > charging,
> >>jump starting after leaving master on, etc).If so, what, where, how?
> > Other >thoughts?
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
I mounted an Andair gascolator in the left wing root of my RV-8A with AFP
fuel injection. Then I called the man at AFP and discussed it with him. He
said I didn't need to install the AFP fuel filter since the Andair
gascolator also has a fine screen filter. He told me he thought the
gascolator was unnecessary, and that I would have been better off just using
his filter.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
You folks running fuel injected engines and especially you guys with Airflow
Performance pump and filter....are you using a gascolater in the fuel line
and if so where and what has your experience been with it? A fellow RV-9A
builder suggested that he would probably eliminate the gascolater because
the AFP filter is very good and the gascolator is yet another item of line
friction (along with the multiple 180 degree tubing bends in the AFP
installation in the side by side airplanes) that he suspects may make for
possible vapor lock conditions on hot days. What are your experiences with
this set up? Would you recommend leaving the gascolator off with the AFP
fuel filter or .....what? Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on opie.wvnet.edu
At 01:39 AM 4/7/05, you wrote:
>
>
>You folks running fuel injected engines and especially you guys with Airflow
>Performance pump and filter....are you using a gascolater in the fuel line
>and if so where and what has your experience been with it?
I do not use a gascolater. After 3 years and 190 hours no problems.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | leading edge of pre-fab tanks not matching wing skin... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Anyone had a problem with the leading edge curve on the fuel tanks not exactly
maching the leading edge of the other wing skin? It is very
slight difference, but there is definitly a difference. The leading edge on the
feul tank sticks out a little further (about 1/8th inch) on the
curve. Any suggestions or feedback?
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Farner <sfarner(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: leading edge of pre-fab tanks not matching wing skin... (not |
processed: message from valid local sender)
Mine stuck out a little when I first fitted them, but after I
tightened everything down, the fit is almost perfect with the fuel
tank sticking out about 1/32 on the very front of the leading edge
(for about half an inch).
It definitely took a little muscle to get the tank in, and the spar
screws will pull the tank down a smidge.
--
Scott
www.scottfarner.com
RV-7A Wings
On Apr 7, 2005 12:52 PM, Matt Johnson wrote:
>
> Anyone had a problem with the leading edge curve on the fuel tanks not exactly
maching the leading edge of the other wing skin? It is very
> slight difference, but there is definitly a difference. The leading edge on the
feul tank sticks out a little further (about 1/8th inch) on the
> curve. Any suggestions or feedback?
>
> - Matt
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: leading edge of pre-fab tanks not matching wing skin... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Matt Johnson wrote:
>
>Anyone had a problem with the leading edge curve on the fuel tanks not exactly
maching the leading edge of the other wing skin? It is very
>slight difference, but there is definitly a difference. The leading edge on the
feul tank sticks out a little further (about 1/8th inch) on the
>curve. Any suggestions or feedback?
>
>- Matt
>
>mine did. I guess it is because of the pro-seal. I used a lot of proseal.You might
take an edgeing tool of some kind and try to bend it down just a bit with
the tank off, but this is going to be hard to do in a curve. I had made my mind
up that I was going to add some filler before I paint it. But now that I have
been flying it, It flys so good that I dont notice it when I look at it..............
hee haa
>
>
>Phil in Illinois
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
skin... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
| Subject: | Re: leading edge of pre-fab tanks not matching wing |
skin... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
| From: | "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org> |
Matt,
This is unfortunately a very common problem. I had the same issue. I'm
assuming that your tanks are sealed and riveted. One cause of this problem
can be the outboard-most bracket having too much sealant between it and the
baffle.
My problem turned out to be not really a problem at all. I was trying to make
the tank fit without bolting it on through the spar. Once I put the bolts in
(specifically the outboard-most bolts), the leading edges fell into place
nicely. Also, make sure that there's no sag in the skeleton, as this has
caused many alignment problems as well.
For more info...search the archives for "tank & LE & alignment". There's a
ton of stuff in there.
Hope this helps,
Jamie
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A fuselage N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <erichweaver(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Wheel pants mounting |
Greetings. Im a newby hip-deep in a RV-7A project that was well along before the
previous builder passed away.
Anywho, am mounting wheel pants and trying to stay true to the manual as best I
can. I established a 1-inch clearance on top of my 14-inch tires using a wood
block, but with this clearance, I do not get the 8+ inches specified in the
plans, as measured from the ground up to the midpoint of the trailing edge on
the aft portion of the wheel pant, and also on the other end, from the ground
up to the nose of the front portion of the fairing. Im off around 3/4 of an
inch, and I have the plane leveled and jacked up as required.
Im thinking that the big picture is to get the wheel pant with the proper clearance
from the top of the tire, and also lined up with the airflow - i.e. level!
I think Ive done this, as the distance from the nose of the wheel pant to the
ground is the same as the distnace from the center of the trailing edge to
the ground. This would lead me to not worry too much about the 3/4 inch discrepancy
from the plans. Would feel better if someone would agree with me though....Hope
I described things well enough for you all to follow along.
regards
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed vs. E/P-Mag |
I have seen a smoother engine, a lower smoother
idle and a drop in fuel burn.
The plus ib there is no stinking big black box th
find a place for. It is all self contained!
From the 22 hrs I have operated this system I wolud
say there is a slight increase in rpm at takeoff and in cruise.
Stewart RV-4 Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Reusing nuts? |
Thanks, everyone.
I suppose the dollar or so for four nuts is definitely worth the reduction
in worry. Will do.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV8 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Reusing nuts? |
As a side question, do many of you add lock-tite or similar to these sorts
of nuts and bolts?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8 Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
> Hi Dean-
>
> I agree that gascolators are of somewhat limited value in
> general, but also feel that they are relatively good at
> catching water. Having less than fond memories of flush fuel
> caps and rainy days, I elected to keep one in my system. If
> the AFP filter will in fact stop water, it will also take a
> tiny fraction of the capacity of the gascolator to plug it.
> If it doesn't stop water, then it's ineffective in this role.
> In either case, the gascolator gets drained each flight, or
> at least each fill-up. The filter gets cleaned once a year.
> As far as being an impediment to fuel flow, I have 2 fuel
> pumps and no anecdotal evidence to support that being a valid
> concern.
The AFP filter will not catch water, but with FI, it is really not that
important. If an ounce of water were to pass through the system at full
power, the power loss would be for about 2 seconds, and, an ounce is a lot
of water. Carbs are a different matter - water can cause long term power
loss by not passing through the jets. I sump the tanks when appropriate.
The designer of the AFP system recommends using only his filter and not a
gascolator. Experimentals - do what you choose, but use caution in fuel
system design.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 608 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com> |
| Subject: | Use of Lock-tite? |
Michael,
I don't recall mention of Lock-tite in the Hardware and Fasteners class
at A&P school. The product has many useful applications but I can't
think of any that involve airplanes. (I'll just issue an "I stand
corrected." statement right now as someone is sure to give an example.
Thank you for keeping me honest.) Instead, we use a variety of other
means to safety nuts, bolts, screws, turnbuckles or anything that might
work loose. Nylon lock nuts, all metal lock nuts, castle nuts with
cotter pins, safety wire through drilled bolt heads and jam nuts are the
best examples.
There is a book that you may wish to pick up. Standard Aircraft
Handbook by Aero ISBN0-8306-8634-7 Your local book store can order it
for you or you might find one it Ebay. It is packed full of useful
information and I recommend it for a new builder. I even recommend it to
veteran builders.
Mark
7 empanage
MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>As a side question, do many of you add lock-tite or similar to these sorts
>of nuts and bolts?
>
>Regards,
>
>Michael Wynn
>RV-8 Empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
For those of you that are flying constant speed props:
What MP settings are you using in the pattern?
What about final approach?
How about climb and cruise decent?
Vince
RV-8A IO-360A1A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Mani Ravee ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Mani Ravee
Lists: RV-List,RV10-List
Subject: Touch up spray kit
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/maniravee@sbcglobal.net.04.07.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ David McNeill ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: David McNeill
Lists: RV-List,RV10-List
Subject: O540 specs
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dlm34077@cox.net.04.07.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Vince:
About 14" in the pattern. Varies from 13 - 15.
Decent is typically a 200 RPM reduction and maintain MP on the way down.
Typically I cannot get more than 21 - 22" at altitude. A 500 FPM decent is
2,100 and 22 inches. Maintain the same MP all the way down by pulling the
throttle back everytime it rises 1/2". After coming over the Mountains
north of where I am based, I am typically at 9,500 msl and need to get down
to 2,240 pattern. If I am not slowed down below 5,000 and 160 Kts, 8 miles
out, I pull the MP back to 15.
Lots of trials during test flying. A test flight maneuver is prop all the
way forward, throttle all the way back, nose 45 degree down, ASI - 180 KIAS,
VSI = 4,000 FPM down. The same 15" in the pattern will give 2,000 FPM down
at 125 KIAS.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,649 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: MP
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2005 21:21:59 -0400
For those of you that are flying constant speed props:
What MP settings are you using in the pattern?
What about final approach?
How about climb and cruise decent?
Vince
RV-8A IO-360A1A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ David McNeill ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Anybody else have problems open these files.
Tom Gummo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Email List Photo Shares" <pictures(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: [ David McNeill ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
>
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: David McNeill
>
> Lists: RV-List,RV10-List
>
> Subject: O540 specs
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dlm34077@cox.net.04.07.2005/index.html
>
>
> o Main Photo Share Index
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> o Submitting a Photo Share
>
> If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
> following information along with your email message and files:
>
> 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
> 2) Your Full Name:
> 3) Your Email Address:
> 4) One line Subject description:
> 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
> 6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
>
> Email the information above and your files and photos to:
>
> pictures(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Reusing nuts? |
In a message dated 4/7/2005 3:44:17 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com writes:
You can get away with using the same nylock nuts provided that the nylon
insert still has its holding power. BUT.....for critical flight controls
like you are talking I don't recommend it, especially considering the small
cost of a nylock nut.
==================================
Actually, for flight controls I like using the belt and suspenders approach,
nyloc castle nuts that ACS sells and cotter pins. They're not cheap, but if
a pin ever falls out in flight you still have the nyloc.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Dual P-Mags, Flying 737hrs, Silicon Valley,
CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Re Engine mount |
Ah, the light comes on! An RV-6A engine mount does not have those vertical
and horizontal tubes and so there is some "flex" in -6A mount that is not
there in a -6 mount.
"Fiddle and fit" thus looks like the answer in a taildragger 6.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw(at)ihug.co.nz>
Subject: RV-List: Re Engine mount
>
> Many thanks to those who replied to my question about the engine mount. I
> also put the question to Vans who recommended moving the mount up the
> required 1/8" to provide bolt clearance. I have decided to do this and
> all seems to be well so far. For those who suggested 'tweaking' the mount
> to fit with cargo straps etc, I doubt this would work on this particular
> mount as there are tubes welded vertically and horizontally between the
> mounting holes that would not allow any movement (Dynafocal mount on plan
> 50). This thing is solid!
>
> Clive Whittfield RV6 fuselage
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: I Like my P-Mags (early report) |
I know that many are interested in hearing reports from those of us who have
converted from original magnetos to the E-Mag and P-Mag electronic
ignitions. I have just completed the retrofit of two P-Mags, replacing the original
Slick magnetos on my O-360-A1A, new in 1997. I have only one half-hour flight
on my dual P-Mags last Saturday on which to base my initial observations.
Also be advised that I installed a new ignition harness and new plugs
(REM37BY gapped at .030" replacing REM38E gapped at .019") at the same time.
I
installed two P-Mags because I like the full redundancy they provide and I fly
over the pointy stuff a lot. The system installed was about 1 lb lighter than
the system it replaced with the moment arm being 42". The system and wiring
was simple to install and there are only minor things that I would add to
the installation manual. One change I would recommend is the use of the larger
gaskets (with upper and lower ears that also encompass the studs) rather
than using the smaller (ring only) gaskets that were provided with the
ignitions. The drive gear that is available from E-Mag appears to be a high quality
part and is needed if you originally had a impulse coupled magneto on one
side. The ignition harness wires were a little short for my liking. The P-Mag
system for Constant speed prop use requires a Manifold Pressure source from
the engine.
So far, my impression is that this is a very good performing ignition system
as far as engine smoothness is concerned. Now, the four cylinder Lycomings
have seldom been accused of being smooth running engines and the fixed 25
degree BTDC advance has never fostered quick changes in throttle position.
Having said that, my O-360 was dynamically balanced by Dave Morss at time zero,
has been running exceptionally well as flat fours go and my oil analyses
(originally Howard Fenton and now done by Blackstone Labs) since day one have
all
been outstanding.
With the new P-Mags, the engine felt much much smoother during acceleration,
cruise and deceleration than it ever had with the magneto ignitions. The
engine also takes throttle much better. Engine CHT, EGT and oil temps remain
basically unchanged but it seems that the engine runs stronger and spins up
readily. I'm getting 185 mph at 23 square burning 9.5 gph at 5000 ft MSL.
I'm currently getting a little ignition noise in the radio and Brad Dement
at E-Mag has advised me to perform some easy checks this weekend and get back
to him with what I've found.
I will be putting more time on the plane this weekend and will provide any
additional info as I get it.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Dual P-Mags, Flying 737hrs, Silicon Valley,
CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "son hoang" <son(at)hoangs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I Like my P-Mags (early report) |
Thanks for the report
It is very timely for me since I am about to order the P mags (plan to do it
on Monday)...
how long does it take you to install them ?
is it as simple as they claim ?
Son N64SH
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: I Like my P-Mags (early report)
>
> I know that many are interested in hearing reports from those of us who
have
> converted from original magnetos to the E-Mag and P-Mag electronic
> ignitions. I have just completed the retrofit of two P-Mags, replacing
the original
> Slick magnetos on my O-360-A1A, new in 1997. I have only one half-hour
flight
> on my dual P-Mags last Saturday on which to base my initial observations.
>
> Also be advised that I installed a new ignition harness and new plugs
> (REM37BY gapped at .030" replacing REM38E gapped at .019") at the same
time. I
> installed two P-Mags because I like the full redundancy they provide and
I fly
> over the pointy stuff a lot. The system installed was about 1 lb lighter
than
> the system it replaced with the moment arm being 42". The system and
wiring
> was simple to install and there are only minor things that I would add to
> the installation manual. One change I would recommend is the use of the
larger
> gaskets (with upper and lower ears that also encompass the studs) rather
> than using the smaller (ring only) gaskets that were provided with the
> ignitions. The drive gear that is available from E-Mag appears to be a
high quality
> part and is needed if you originally had a impulse coupled magneto on one
> side. The ignition harness wires were a little short for my liking. The
P-Mag
> system for Constant speed prop use requires a Manifold Pressure source
from
> the engine.
>
> So far, my impression is that this is a very good performing ignition
system
> as far as engine smoothness is concerned. Now, the four cylinder
Lycomings
> have seldom been accused of being smooth running engines and the fixed 25
> degree BTDC advance has never fostered quick changes in throttle
position.
> Having said that, my O-360 was dynamically balanced by Dave Morss at time
zero,
> has been running exceptionally well as flat fours go and my oil analyses
> (originally Howard Fenton and now done by Blackstone Labs) since day one
have all
> been outstanding.
>
> With the new P-Mags, the engine felt much much smoother during
acceleration,
> cruise and deceleration than it ever had with the magneto ignitions. The
> engine also takes throttle much better. Engine CHT, EGT and oil temps
remain
> basically unchanged but it seems that the engine runs stronger and spins
up
> readily. I'm getting 185 mph at 23 square burning 9.5 gph at 5000 ft
MSL.
>
> I'm currently getting a little ignition noise in the radio and Brad Dement
> at E-Mag has advised me to perform some easy checks this weekend and get
back
> to him with what I've found.
>
> I will be putting more time on the plane this weekend and will provide any
> additional info as I get it.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Dual P-Mags, Flying 737hrs, Silicon
Valley,
> CA)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | E-Mag/P-May info from AeroElectric-List |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rv-9a-online
Direct from Emagair:
-snip-
Listed below are some of the more visible refinements we are implementing in
the current series (designated E-112 and P-112). We will revise all
current orders to reflect this change in designation.
1. Overall ignition frame length will be 6.15". This is 1/3" longer than the
111 series. Previously, the nose and main case sections were threaded
together (with Locktite) which made servicing the ignitions difficult, and
in some cases impossible. It also made the orientation between these
sections hard to control. In the 112 series, they will be secured
internally with 6 bolts, which necessitates the small case extension. As
before, installations with firewall clearance issues (primarily canards)
have the option of detaching the coil from the ignition, and mounting it on
the firewall. In this configuration, the ignition is only 3" deep.
2. The Mode Switch has been moved from the connector head to a DIP switch
accessible by removing a threaded plug on the side of the ignition case.
This will facilitate more efficient manufacturing, and will better protect
the switch. The 111 series mode switch was occasionally getting damaged by
customers when the screw driver used to secure the connector scraped across
the face of the switch.
3. The aircraft harness is now offered as standard 5/8"-24 aircraft spark
plug connectors (cigarette and spring) that are pre-installed on the ends of
our auto lead kit. This has several advantages.
a. It eliminates the need (and expense) of Aircraft Coil Adapters ($45.00)
per ignition. (This charge will be deleted from affected orders.)
b. It permits the use of our low profile 90 degree connections on the coil
end. This reduces the overall length of the aircraft ignition/harness by
1.25". The length of the earlier aircraft harness was preventing some
builders who wanted to use aircraft plugs from doing so.
c. It permits greater flexibility as leads can be routed and trimmed to
length according to individual preferences. Spark plug terminals and boots
are field installed. A terminal crimping tool is included with the kit at
no extra charge. Note: Auto leads use noise suppressive wire in lieu of a
grounded shield. We've had no reports of noise problems from customers
using the auto harness. Even so, builders have the option, if needed, of
adding a shield over the leads and ground them at the spark plug connector.
4. The DIP switch referenced in 2 above will also let customers set the tack
output for either one or two pulses per revolution. Customers will no
longer need to research this item and report back so we can program an
appropriate setup. Also, if the tack is later changed to a different
style, any needed changes can be made on the spot.
5. Unlike the 111 series, the tack lead will have a pull up resistor built
into the unit. It will produce a 12 volt tack pulse. Instruments that need
a 5 volt signal will be able to reduce the voltage by adding an external
diode (not provided).
6. The DIP switch will also let customers set the baseline timing for 20 or
25 degrees at installation. This will eliminates the need for customers to
investigate and report back when ordering their ignition.
7. The mounting flange has been sized so existing magneto mounting clips can
be reused. The 111 series flange was slightly undersized which required us
to provide custom fitted clips. If you do not have mounting clips to reuse,
just let us know and we will add a set(s) to your order ($15/set).
Vern Little
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pants mounting |
Hi Erich,
I think you have it right. The thing you want to watch for
in the rear is that there should be enough clearance when
you are doing a nice, slow, tail-low landing. If you can
tip the tail down to the ground, and the wheel pants still
have a bit of clearance, then you are good.
I've seen -A models with dirt and grass stuck in
the tail tiedown ring, so keep in mind that the tail
*can* get low!
Mickey
erichweaver(at)cox.net wrote:
>
> Greetings. Im a newby hip-deep in a RV-7A project that was well
> along before the previous builder passed away. Anywho, am mounting
> wheel pants and trying to stay true to the manual as best I can. I
> established a 1-inch clearance on top of my 14-inch tires using a
> wood block, but with this clearance, I do not get the 8+ inches
> specified in the plans, as measured from the ground up to the
> midpoint of the trailing edge on the aft portion of the wheel pant,
> and also on the other end, from the ground up to the nose of the
> front portion of the fairing. Im off around 3/4 of an inch, and I
> have the plane leveled and jacked up as required.
>
> Im thinking that the big picture is to get the wheel pant with the
> proper clearance from the top of the tire, and also lined up with the
> airflow - i.e. level! I think Ive done this, as the distance from
> the nose of the wheel pant to the ground is the same as the distnace
> from the center of the trailing edge to the ground. This would lead
> me to not worry too much about the 3/4 inch discrepancy from the
> plans. Would feel better if someone would agree with me
> though....Hope I described things well enough for you all to follow
> along.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
For those of you with prior epoxy fiberglass painting experience;
What type of primer should I spray my fiberglass/epoxy cowling
with so that I won't have any issues with final painting sometime
down the road. A high-fill primer would be good as I would like
to get rid of all these pin-holes. Also, I want to paint the interior
of the cowl white. Any recommendations would be helpful.
I seem to remember a thread a while back where some proficient
painters expressed their opinions about what paints "Not" to use,
but I cannot find that thread.
Thanks,
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Moving to Hangar in one week.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Use of Lock-tite? |
Not necessarily having anything to do with "Loctite" . . .
But, he biggest unprotected risk that I see are AN Fittings, many of
which are critical!
They are not safetied in any way . . . in most cases you can't get a
torque wrench on them so torque is "by feel"!
What am I not understanding here!?
Thanks,
Bob
On Apr 7, 2005 8:03 PM, Mark Grieve wrote:
>
> Michael,
> I don't recall mention of Lock-tite in the Hardware and Fasteners class
> at A&P school. The product has many useful applications but I can't
> think of any that involve airplanes. (I'll just issue an "I stand
> corrected." statement right now as someone is sure to give an example.
> Thank you for keeping me honest.) Instead, we use a variety of other
> means to safety nuts, bolts, screws, turnbuckles or anything that might
> work loose. Nylon lock nuts, all metal lock nuts, castle nuts with
> cotter pins, safety wire through drilled bolt heads and jam nuts are the
> best examples.
>
> There is a book that you may wish to pick up. Standard Aircraft
> Handbook by Aero ISBN0-8306-8634-7 Your local book store can order it
> for you or you might find one it Ebay. It is packed full of useful
> information and I recommend it for a new builder. I even recommend it to
> veteran builders.
>
> Mark
> 7 empanage
>
> MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> >As a side question, do many of you add lock-tite or similar to these sorts
> >of nuts and bolts?
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Michael Wynn
> >RV-8 Empennage
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed vs. E/P-Mag |
Konrad:
There is a lot of info on the web and from electronic ignition (EI) makers web
sites. One of the best references is from the Caf Foundation I refer to below.
>From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
>Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed vs. E/P-Mag
>
>Has anyone ever compared the performance gains between the Lightspeed-
>and the E/P-Mag Electronic Ignitions. I just wonder if the E-P Mag has anywhere
near >the same performance improvement that Lightspeed claims (which I do believe!)
?
All the EI brands: LASAR, LightSpeed and Electroair make approx the same claim
or have verified flight-tested data. An overall 6% performance gain and 2% increase
in cruise fuel economy is not unrealistic. However that is at the high end,
and your mileage may vary. Sloppy leaning (too rich) will eat up economy gains,
and max lean economy will not produce as much performance gains. Overall
any EI will improve operations over a magneto.
E/P-Mag does not make any performance claims. They state on there web site: http://emagair.com/
"Q: Does the E-MAG do "everything" other electronic ignitions do? Do you have
comparison data? ..there are inherent efficiencies and economies that are associated
with all electronic ignitions. However, the E-MAG is oriented toward
day-to-day fliers looking for a simplified, easy to install, and easy to operate
ignition. Not CAFE racing..We don't have plans for head-to-head closed course,
dynamometer, or other
There are two basic types of electronic ignitions: CDI and Induction. CDI, Capacitance
Discharge Ignition, produces a very strong spark. The advantage is it
will operate at low voltage (5V) and gives long duration thru multiple spark discharge.
The Induction type uses large (induction) coils that give a single strong
fat long duration spark. The advantage is it is based on reliable economical
automotive technology. From a pure performance standpoint CDI probably has
advantages on very high performance car, motorcycle and marine ignitions, but
on an aircraft engine turning a steady 2700 RPM, the advantage is not as great.
CDI does cost more but does have that important advantage of running on very
low voltage. The LS uses CDI. Electroair and E/P-Mag use Induction ignition.
I do not know about Lasar, but Avweb says it is based on CDI.
Electronic ignition (any brand) with a hotter, longer duration spark and (conservative)
timing advance will all give similar improved performance and economy
over magnetos. I think installation, features and cost are factors that will
affect the purchase more than pure performance for most pilots.
>Would they have close to the same timing curves if one where to use one
>LSE & one E/P-Mag on the same engine?
You have to remember you want (need) to be very conservative with air-cooled aircraft
engine timing, as it can affect CHT and cause detonation. The idea of electronic
ignitions, hotter-longer duration spark and timing advance, is more
efficient complete burn of the gas/air mixture. This will produce more power or
use less gas for the same power (provided you lean the engine). Of course this
makes more heat and has some drawbacks.
25-degree advance is the max advance for higher power setting from 100% to 75%.
Air-cooled engines need that wasted, un-burnt gas to cool the cylinder heads
and valves. Also detonation in an aircraft engine (5.125 inch bore) is much more
critical than a car engine (3.5"-4.0" bore) with water cooling. The subject
of pre-ignition and detonation is interesting and complex, which involves more
than just timing, but to keep it simple below 70% power, aircraft engines are
unlikely to detonate. All aircraft EI take advantage of this. They don't try
to optimize power at higher power because it is too hard to detect and control
detonation in an aircraft engine. Although it is possible to make more power
at higher power setting, typical high power settings are used for take-off and
climb are cooling critical. You need the timing retarded to avoid high CHT's
and possible detonation. All the manufactures use similar timing schemes by
keeping a conservative advance of 25 degree until pow
er is
approx 75% or less.
From the published info:
**Light Speed post a spec of 15 to 43 BTDC, TDC for starting. LS offer a reduced
max advance for HC piston engines. LS claims approx 4% increase on HP for a
single LS unit over a magneto and 6% total for dual electronic ignition.
**Lasar states that adv starts at 85% (approx 3,000 feet), but their curve shows
no change till about 6,000 feet, or about 85%-75% power. The max advance continues
to approx 42 deg (ref. avweb).
http://www.unisonindustries.com/products/lasar_performance_gains/lasar_perform_gains_eight.html
They claim approx 6% in performance and 2% improved economy.
**Electroair: Was studied by the **Cafe foundation in a three part articles: "Ignition
Dynamics I, II,II". (If you want to know about electronic ignition read
this, even if you are not going to use an Electroair unit.) They used a Mooney
with a Lyc IO-360. The flight test compared single & dual electronic ignition
to magnetos. Electroair makes no performance claims, however many are in use.
Unfortunately they are not selling new units at this time, but that may change.
I believe it had something to do with a component supplier.
http://www.cafefoundation.org/research.htm
Electroair timing advance of 30 degree was noted at approx 75% power, advancing
to 41-degree max. at approx 69% power. Dual Electroair posted up to 8.5% increase
in speed (burning 7.7% more fuel). Another condition recorded 10.7% fuel
savings over dual magnetos. This data is at very specific points, but overall
4-6% claims made by for electronic ignitions seems very reasonable.
**E/P-mag does not post any performance claims or timing advance info. From a conversation
many months ago I had with them, I recall the total advance is in
the 40-42 degree range. I also was left with the impression they have a good conservative
timing schedule and know what they are doing. Since they have an eye
on certification, they did their homework. I am more concerned about safe engine
operations than another 1/4% increase in performance. I believe the E/P-mag
shares many similarity in technology as the Electroair (induction ignition)
and should have very good performance. I think the E/P-mag folks have a safe
system. The question I would ask of any EI system is how they can fail, (no spark)
or advancing timing too much at high power. The E/P-mag has all electronics,
coil, and timing trigger, spark distribution and even a power dynamo all
in one unit. This unit is attached to the engine, which is shaking, so vibration
related failure is a design consideration. The all
in one
unit is hands down a winner from an installation stand point, but to answer your
question about performance I would assume there could be some compromise to
obtain the compact design. We shall see with more experience.
>Or are these curves "proprietary/secret" information at both companies.
>Just curious about mixing different E.I. Systems.
Not sure what you would do with the curves anyway, for most pilots the stock curve
it fine. Unlike cars and motorcycles which operated over a wide range of RPMs
and power from idle to full and back again; aircraft engines operated in a
very small power range at very constant RPM's. The curve is not super critical,
except as noted to avoid detonation.
Yes, the curves are secret. However you can guess what they are. The LS does have
an optional cockpit advance display and control, which allows the pilot to
control total advance. I would not recommend playing with timing advance as severe
damage can occur unless you know what you are doing. For a day flyer it is
not necessary. The LS also has cool display options. In addition to a cockpit
timing advance display, you can display RPM and MAP on small digital voltmeters
directly from the LS unit.
The E/P-mag folks told me they can program a custom timing advance curve, but they
must do it at the factory. Last I heard they had no plans to allow users to
chance the timing in the field. Many car and motorcycles can program fuel and
timing schedules from a laptop. Also, E/P-mag offers three versions: fixed timing
(25 degree fixed), limited advance on RPM only and Full advance using RPM/MAP
control. They also have can limit the total advance for those using HC pistons
or turbo charging I believe. The advantage of E/P-mag is the installation.
I do have a concern about the computer style electrical connector on the unit.
I would not recommend *MIXING EI BRANDS**. The major gain from an EI is replacing
the first magneto. The small increase form the second unit assumes it will
work together in concert with the first EI. If two brands differ in timing, than
the advantage is going to be lost. In other words if one fires much earlier
than the other, the other later firing unit is going along for the ride, doing
little.
WARNING: Detonation due to pre-ignition from advanced timing at high power is a
concern. All the electronic ignitions that advance timing will limit advance
to 25 degree until approx 75% to 71%. Also the max advance is limited to about
43 degrees, 13 degrees over the baseline 25 deg. However if you have high CHT
already or poor baffling an electronic ignition can cause engine damage if the
pilot does not observe engine limits. Unlike cars you cant hear detonation or
Knocking. If you have a weakness in you engine or installation, an EI may aggravate
it. All EI will cause the engine temps to increase due to better combustion.
If an engine is healthy and operated within limits, EI should be safe and
reliable. It is interesting to note Lycoming has noted more valve problems
as gas prices have increased and pilots try to lean more aggressively. However
overly rich operations can damage engines. Bottom line is the more power you
get out of your engine and higher temps you operat
e at, no
matter how you do it, ignition, HC pistons, turbo charger, can reduce life to
a degree. However EI is a safe way to achieve both a small performance and economy
gains.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/keyReprints/operation/leaningEngines.html
Cheers George
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint for Cowls |
I used epoxy/acetone mix to coat the inside per the rv-ator. I then just
sprayed some hi-temp rattle can paint. Im sure you'll get a ton of
recommendations for the outside. Try searching pin holes.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
>
> For those of you with prior epoxy fiberglass painting experience;
>
> What type of primer should I spray my fiberglass/epoxy cowling
> with so that I won't have any issues with final painting sometime
> down the road. A high-fill primer would be good as I would like
> to get rid of all these pin-holes. Also, I want to paint the interior
> of the cowl white. Any recommendations would be helpful.
>
> I seem to remember a thread a while back where some proficient
> painters expressed their opinions about what paints "Not" to use,
> but I cannot find that thread.
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
> Moving to Hangar in one week.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint for Cowls |
Try Poly Fiber UV Smooth Prime it fills the holes real well and can be
painted over with any products. Its not cheap but works good. Cleans up with
water. ASC has it. It comes in several colors now.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
>
>
> I used epoxy/acetone mix to coat the inside per the rv-ator. I then just
> sprayed some hi-temp rattle can paint. Im sure you'll get a ton of
> recommendations for the outside. Try searching pin holes.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 165 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Walter Tondu" <walter(at)tondu.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
>
>
>>
>> For those of you with prior epoxy fiberglass painting experience;
>>
>> What type of primer should I spray my fiberglass/epoxy cowling
>> with so that I won't have any issues with final painting sometime
>> down the road. A high-fill primer would be good as I would like
>> to get rid of all these pin-holes. Also, I want to paint the interior
>> of the cowl white. Any recommendations would be helpful.
>>
>> I seem to remember a thread a while back where some proficient
>> painters expressed their opinions about what paints "Not" to use,
>> but I cannot find that thread.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> --
>> Walter Tondu
>> http://www.rv7-a.com
>> Moving to Hangar in one week.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Paint for Cowls |
In a message dated 04/08/2005 4:38:07 PM Central Standard Time,
walter(at)tondu.com writes:
Also, I want to paint the interior
of the cowl white. Any recommendations would be helpful.
>>>
Hi Walter- Not white, but every time I had some epoxy work to do, I would
paint whatever resin was left inside the lower cowl. Ended up with the whole
thing "painted". Used some of Vans adhesive heat shield in appropriate places
and let it go at that. Works great so far (160 hrs)
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Where do you get it in colors other than white (ACS web site lists white
only)? Do you know if there is there a limit to how long it can be left
before it must be sealed with primer?
On my cowl, I painted in the inside with a hi-temp rattle-can paint. If I
were to do it again, I would just seal it with a couple coats of resin. The
outside is still bare at this point....
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8, 78 Hrs.
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Rose [mailto:av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net]
> Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 7:18 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
>
>
> Try Poly Fiber UV Smooth Prime it fills the holes real well
> and can be painted over with any products. Its not cheap but
> works good. Cleans up with water. ASC has it. It comes in
> several colors now.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
>
>
> >
> >
> > I used epoxy/acetone mix to coat the inside per the
> rv-ator. I then
> > just sprayed some hi-temp rattle can paint. Im sure you'll
> get a ton
> > of recommendations for the outside. Try searching pin holes.
> >
> > Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> > RV-6A, N915JD
> > 165 hours
> > Chicago/Louisville
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Walter Tondu" <walter(at)tondu.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
> >
> >
> >>
> >> For those of you with prior epoxy fiberglass painting experience;
> >>
> >> What type of primer should I spray my fiberglass/epoxy
> cowling with
> >> so that I won't have any issues with final painting
> sometime down the
> >> road. A high-fill primer would be good as I would like to
> get rid of
> >> all these pin-holes. Also, I want to paint the interior
> of the cowl
> >> white. Any recommendations would be helpful.
> >>
> >> I seem to remember a thread a while back where some proficient
> >> painters expressed their opinions about what paints "Not"
> to use, but
> >> I cannot find that thread.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> --
> >> Walter Tondu
> >> http://www.rv7-a.com
> >> Moving to Hangar in one week.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Paint for Cowls |
As another stated ,Smooth Prime is the best I have ever used for filling the
pinholes in that @$
&* fibreglas. A couple of coats and sands easily.
I primed and painted the inside of my lower cowl with metallic silver paint
and glued aluminum foil under the space below the exhaust pipes. 700 hours
on the first and 61 on the present one with no blistered paint.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: I Like my P-Mags (early report) |
In a message dated 4/8/2005 1:45:25 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
son(at)hoangs.com writes:
I am about to order the P mags (plan to do it
on Monday)...
how long does it take you to install them ?
is it as simple as they claim ?
===========================
Here is the Readers' Digest version.
-Disconnect and remove your mags and ignition harness
-Double-nut and remove the two left long studs (31C-19) from the accessory
case (for impulse mag)
-Replace with two shorter studs (31C-12)
-Rewire so that 12V, GND and Switched GND (your key switch) are brought to
the wiring harnesses provided
-There is a tach wire from one of the ignition units that must go to your
electronic tach (if VM1000 it goes to J4_PIN12)
-Remove the shunt on your keyswitch that grounds the right mag during
cranking
-Run plumbing for MP
-Turn prop to TDC
-Setup P-Mags to beep and install with new harnesses
-Check timing at TDC and lock them down
-Notify FAA IAW your limitations
That's basically it.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Dual P-Mags, Flying 737hrs, Silicon Valley,
CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Paint for Cowls |
I am a plastic airplane builder and I really love Smooth Prime also. FYI, I
was just speaking to the tech there a few days ago because I wanted to prime
something a long time before it would be painted. He said that the longer
you wait to paint over it, the better, just the opposite of most primers.
He said that two weeks in a warm dry spot is great, especially if you are in
a high humidity area, although I have painted over it a day or two later
without any problems. He also did recommend a coat of two part epoxy primer
before Imron, but I have also gone directly over it with Sherwin Williams
Polane without a problem.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re:Paint for Cowls
As another stated ,Smooth Prime is the best I have ever used for filling
the
pinholes in that @$
&* fibreglas. A couple of coats and sands easily.
I primed and painted the inside of my lower cowl with metallic silver paint
and glued aluminum foil under the space below the exhaust pipes. 700
hours
on the first and 61 on the present one with no blistered paint.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 4/8/2005 2:52:37 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
welchvincent(at)hotmail.com writes:
What MP settings are you using in the pattern?
What about final approach?
How about climb and cruise decent?
=======================================
Pattern MP as necessary usually around 14inHg
FA, closed throttle
Departure Climb, WFO
Cruise Climb, 25inHg
Cruise, 23inHg
Descent, <18inHg or you'll never get her near the ground
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Dual P-Mags, Flying 737hrs, Silicon Valley,
CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Compass |
I have a new, in the box panel mount compass, internally lit, purchased from Van's.
Part Number: IF CM-13L.
I found out that I need a pedestal mount now. New price is $71. I'll let it go
for $50 or make me an offer.
Contact me off list at: RV8Striker@hot mail.com
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV-8 N842S (Res.)
Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Fuel filter |
I have a new Flow Ezy fuel filter for sale. It's never been used, still in the
box. This is the recommended filter for the Ellison fuel injection system. It
has a 25 Micron rating and sells new from Aircraft Spruce for $82.50. I'd like
to get $60 for it.
Contact me off list at:
RV8Striker(at)hotmail.com
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV-8, N842S (Res.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alison and Neil <alisonandneil(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Paint for Cowls |
I wonder if it's ok to use Smooth Prime over a coat of primer? The primer
really makes the pinholes show then you could fill them with Smooth Prime
with more confidence you got em all.
Neil, finishing the fiberglass bits
RV7 N748M
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re:Paint for Cowls
>
> I am a plastic airplane builder and I really love Smooth Prime also. FYI,
> I
> was just speaking to the tech there a few days ago because I wanted to
> prime
> something a long time before it would be painted. He said that the longer
> you wait to paint over it, the better, just the opposite of most primers.
> He said that two weeks in a warm dry spot is great, especially if you are
> in
> a high humidity area, although I have painted over it a day or two later
> without any problems. He also did recommend a coat of two part epoxy
> primer
> before Imron, but I have also gone directly over it with Sherwin Williams
> Polane without a problem.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re:Paint for Cowls
>
>
> As another stated ,Smooth Prime is the best I have ever used for filling
> the
> pinholes in that @$
> &* fibreglas. A couple of coats and sands easily.
> I primed and painted the inside of my lower cowl with metallic silver
> paint
> and glued aluminum foil under the space below the exhaust pipes. 700
> hours
> on the first and 61 on the present one with no blistered paint.
>
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> Charleston,Arkansas
> Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint for Cowls |
I purchased mine in white from asc but at the airport the other day I saw a
flyer that had several colors in it. Try www.polyfiber.com or you can call 1
800 362 3490 maybe they can answer some ??. Mark Rose N137MR
finishing all the little stuff. 8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
>
> Where do you get it in colors other than white (ACS web site lists white
> only)? Do you know if there is there a limit to how long it can be left
> before it must be sealed with primer?
>
> On my cowl, I painted in the inside with a hi-temp rattle-can paint. If I
> were to do it again, I would just seal it with a couple coats of resin.
> The
> outside is still bare at this point....
>
> -
> Larry Bowen, RV-8, 78 Hrs.
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Mark Rose [mailto:av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net]
>> Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 7:18 PM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
>>
>>
>> Try Poly Fiber UV Smooth Prime it fills the holes real well
>> and can be painted over with any products. Its not cheap but
>> works good. Cleans up with water. ASC has it. It comes in
>> several colors now.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > I used epoxy/acetone mix to coat the inside per the
>> rv-ator. I then
>> > just sprayed some hi-temp rattle can paint. Im sure you'll
>> get a ton
>> > of recommendations for the outside. Try searching pin holes.
>> >
>> > Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>> > RV-6A, N915JD
>> > 165 hours
>> > Chicago/Louisville
>> >
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: "Walter Tondu" <walter(at)tondu.com>
>> > To:
>> > Subject: RV-List: Paint for Cowls
>> >
>> >
>> >>
>> >> For those of you with prior epoxy fiberglass painting experience;
>> >>
>> >> What type of primer should I spray my fiberglass/epoxy
>> cowling with
>> >> so that I won't have any issues with final painting
>> sometime down the
>> >> road. A high-fill primer would be good as I would like to
>> get rid of
>> >> all these pin-holes. Also, I want to paint the interior
>> of the cowl
>> >> white. Any recommendations would be helpful.
>> >>
>> >> I seem to remember a thread a while back where some proficient
>> >> painters expressed their opinions about what paints "Not"
>> to use, but
>> >> I cannot find that thread.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks,
>> >> --
>> >> Walter Tondu
>> >> http://www.rv7-a.com
>> >> Moving to Hangar in one week.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> Photoshare, and much much more:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fujitsu Tablet PC for sale |
Fujitsu LT P-600
This Fujitsu tablet is in great shape. Everything works. Battery holds a
charge. Also comes with an external floppy drive and all necessary cables
and power supplies. Description from Fujitsu's website:
Cpu is Pentium3 with SpeedStep technology 600/300 Mhz
Chip set is Intel 440MX-100
Digitizer is resistive with palm rejection
4 MB VRAM( mobility-m)
8.4" tft/ve-tft color svga (800x600 dot) 256k colors with 8 brightness
levels
One type1 or type2 pcmcia CardBus version 3.0
Standard 50-pin compact flash card connector
Integrated interfaces= RJ-11, USB 1.0, DC-in, Expansion connector,
Microphone, Stereo out, IrDA 1.1( FIR 4Mbps), Lan 10/100BaseT(with dock)
56K(V.90) modem, Sound Blaster pro compatible
Comes with mini docking station with usb port
Monitor out port, serial port, printer port, network lan port, mouse port,
full size keyboard port
Wireless keyboard included
Carrying case included
Tablet is loaded with Windows 2000 Professional with certificate of
authenticity sticker.
Setup for Bluetooth and works well with a Bluetooth GPS. (Holux 231).
Setup was used as a navigation system.
Good platform for XM Weather and AnywhereMAP XP
Wireless "G" dongle included.
$650
Please contact me offline if interested.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D
Cupertino, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Fujitsu Tablet PC for sale |
Is this a 600-T or 600-F?
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Edward Cole
Subject: RV-List: Fujitsu Tablet PC for sale
Fujitsu LT P-600
This Fujitsu tablet is in great shape. Everything works. Battery holds a
charge. Also comes with an external floppy drive and all necessary
cables
and power supplies. Description from Fujitsu's website:
Cpu is Pentium3 with SpeedStep technology 600/300 Mhz
Chip set is Intel 440MX-100
Digitizer is resistive with palm rejection
4 MB VRAM( mobility-m)
8.4" tft/ve-tft color svga (800x600 dot) 256k colors with 8 brightness
levels
One type1 or type2 pcmcia CardBus version 3.0
Standard 50-pin compact flash card connector
Integrated interfaces= RJ-11, USB 1.0, DC-in, Expansion connector,
Microphone, Stereo out, IrDA 1.1( FIR 4Mbps), Lan 10/100BaseT(with dock)
56K(V.90) modem, Sound Blaster pro compatible
Comes with mini docking station with usb port
Monitor out port, serial port, printer port, network lan port, mouse
port,
full size keyboard port
Wireless keyboard included
Carrying case included
Tablet is loaded with Windows 2000 Professional with certificate of
authenticity sticker.
Setup for Bluetooth and works well with a Bluetooth GPS. (Holux 231).
Setup was used as a navigation system.
Good platform for XM Weather and AnywhereMAP XP
Wireless "G" dongle included.
$650
Please contact me offline if interested.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D
Cupertino, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting HS 707 to HS PP801 |
Hi all
I started the skin riveting today with trying to rivet HS 707 to the skin, HS
801 PP. I was reminded of one of my professors in training, watching me try
to sew up a skin wound. He said, "Gee, Michael. I'm sure there is a more
awkward way to do that. I'm just not sure what it would be." That is how I am
feeling about now with this skin.
I started to blind rivet the top, but was really having trouble getting the
rivets to lay flat. 1 or 2 look good, a couple are slightly proud (the rivets,
not me) and at least one is loose. I am planning to drill them out and start
over. I usually work alone, as neither wife nor daughters are particularly
shop inclined. Should this be done with a flush riveter and a bucking bar or
continue blind approach? The quarters are quite tight. Should I unbend the
skin somewhat? Do any of you build jigs to hold the section? Any experience
would be really helpful.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Farner <sfarner(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting HS 707 to HS PP801 |
Michael,
When I riveted the HS skin, I also did not have any help. I didn't
have any problem using the gun and a bucking bar. Here's a link to the
bucking bar I used:
http://www.scottfarner.com/showpage.asp?date=12/27/2004. I had to add
a surface to it so that I could get my fat hand inside there. I used
the same method for my VS. I don't think there is a problem using
blind rivets, structually speaking, but solid rivets look better and
are a lot less expensive. It is not really necessary, but I would
rivet the bottom first just so that any mistakes are not as visible.
In fact, from my own experience and from what I have heard from other
builders, it is easier to put together the VS as the opening is a
little wider. I didn't see the need for a jig - it's easier to rivet
while the HS is flat on the bench.
Just out of curiosity, what blind rivets are you using?
--
Scott
www.scottfarner.com
RV-7 Wings
On Apr 9, 2005 4:03 PM, MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> I started the skin riveting today with trying to rivet HS 707 to the skin, HS
> 801 PP. I was reminded of one of my professors in training, watching me try
> to sew up a skin wound. He said, "Gee, Michael. I'm sure there is a more
> awkward way to do that. I'm just not sure what it would be." That is how I
am
> feeling about now with this skin.
>
> I started to blind rivet the top, but was really having trouble getting the
> rivets to lay flat. 1 or 2 look good, a couple are slightly proud (the rivets,
> not me) and at least one is loose. I am planning to drill them out and start
> over. I usually work alone, as neither wife nor daughters are particularly
> shop inclined. Should this be done with a flush riveter and a bucking bar or
> continue blind approach? The quarters are quite tight. Should I unbend the
> skin somewhat? Do any of you build jigs to hold the section? Any experience
> would be really helpful.
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV-8, Empennage
> San Ramon, California
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Light Speed wiring question |
| From: | "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com> |
=A0=A0 I have a Light Speed Plasma II Ignition and need help wiring it to the igintion,
mag switch.=A0 I phoned the factory and they said I would need to upgrade
($250) in order to get it to work on the keyed switch. The switch puts the
mag to ground but doesnt allow you to turn the electronic ignition off/on.
guess I could put the mag and electronic igntion on seperate toggle
switches but I like the idea and security of having a keyed igntion and the
mag/ei/both all together. Anyone else=A0 have a unique solution to this problem
Thanks
Wayne
RV 7a Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint for Cowls |
Try Jim and Dondie Miller at Aircraft Technical
Support in Orient, OH 614-877-3334. They are the
largest Polyfiber distrubitors in the US and very
knowledgable in aircraft coating systems.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Light Speed wiring question |
The Plasma II does not have the "P" connection capability. The Plasma II+
and III have the "P" connection for the ignition switch. on your keyed
switch.
Looks like you will have to get the Plasma II changed to a Plasma II+ or
revert to using two toggle switches for your ignition system and get ride
of the ignition key. You will of course need a push button for the
starter.
Just my humble opinion.
Vic
--
From: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com>
Subject: RV-List: Light Speed wiring question
>
>
>=A0 I have a Light Speed Plasma II Ignition and need help wiring it to
> the igintion, mag switch.=A0 I phoned the factory and they said I would
> need to upgrade ($250) in order to get it to work on the keyed switch. The
> switch puts the mag to ground but doesnt allow you to turn the electronic
> ignition off/on. I guess I could put the mag and electronic
> igntion on seperate toggle switches but I like the idea and security of
> having a keyed igntion and the mag/ei/both all together. Anyone else=A0
> have a unique solution to this problem
>
> Thanks
> Wayne
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Light Speed wiring question Re-Dux |
Wayne, there may be a way you can do this.
Use a small relay which will apply power to your Plasma when the ground wire
of the small relay is applied to ground with the keyed ignition. Call me
at 505-622-8513 and we can discuss how this can be done.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting HS 707 to HS PP801 |
Hi scott
Perhaps I mis-stated that. I am using the standard rivets but was trying to
back rivet, not blind rivet. Sorry for the confusion. I was just thinking
that because you rivet from the back without looking.
Anyway, I got good results back riveting on my practice piece, but there was
a lot more room to maneuver.
So when you were riveting, you had the HS on your bench flat. The rivet gun
in one hand (right hand?), bucking bar in the other. Were you working from
the top down? By that I mean, HS 707 clecoed to the skin, kind of dangling in
the air and then coming in from the side with your bucking bar? I am having
trouble visualizing the body position. When you get ready to do the opposite
side, the trick is then to get your hand all the way in the narrow spot, yes?
Thanks for taking the time to respond.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Farner <sfarner(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting HS 707 to HS PP801 |
Michael,
It's probably not a good idea to back rivet the HS and VS - the
curvature can cause problems making rivets sitting flat. As for body
position, I had the gun in my right hand, bucking bar in left (the way
to go if you're right handed). I hate to use the term, but I was
shooting blind. That is, I could check that the bucking bar was on the
rivet by reaching my hand inside the HS and pushing up on the rivet.
Then I would get the gun with a flush set on the rivet and hammer
away. So to sum up body position, my left hand is reaching inside the
HS, and my right hand is on top with the gun. It's a little awkward at
first, but you'll get used to it. For HS-707, yes, I only clecoed on
the top side for the first time. However, you can use the gun to push
down on the rib so that it is up against the other side of the skin -
this gives more support for riveting.
It does get a little narrow once you have one side done, but I have
really fat hands and was able to get it done. You might not be able to
get your fingers on the bucking bar directly under the rivet for
support, but because they are 3- rivets, it doesn't take too much
force from the bucking bar, so holding the bar at the opposite end
shouldn't be too much of a problem. Also, you might only be able to
get a small corner of the bucking bar on the rivet in some cases. This
was the case for some of mine like in rib corners or near the leading
edge (a few of which did have to be drilled out;)
Scott
On Apr 9, 2005 8:08 PM, MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi scott
>
> Perhaps I mis-stated that. I am using the standard rivets but was trying to
> back rivet, not blind rivet. Sorry for the confusion. I was just thinking
> that because you rivet from the back without looking.
>
> Anyway, I got good results back riveting on my practice piece, but there was
> a lot more room to maneuver.
>
> So when you were riveting, you had the HS on your bench flat. The rivet gun
> in one hand (right hand?), bucking bar in the other. Were you working from
> the top down? By that I mean, HS 707 clecoed to the skin, kind of dangling in
> the air and then coming in from the side with your bucking bar? I am having
> trouble visualizing the body position. When you get ready to do the opposite
> side, the trick is then to get your hand all the way in the narrow spot, yes?
>
> Thanks for taking the time to respond.
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV-8, Empennage
> San Ramon, California
>
>
>
--
Scott
www.scottfarner.com
RV-7 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting HS 707 to HS PP801 |
Hello Michael,
You might try looking around the shop for a smaller and or thinner steel
object that can be used as is made into light weight bar.
I went to a local steel fabrication shop and asked for some small scraps.
They led me to a bin at the end of their shear and invited me to fill my
boots so to speak. I hack sawed, and then polished them on my 30' delta belt
sander. I made several
custom bars this way.
A smaller lighter bar still works well on the 3/32" flush rivets that are
called out for what you describe. Use duct tape to cover the non polished
parts to get a better grip and reduce scratches.
Keep on making enough noise and you'll have an aircraft in no time.(;-)
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Handheld to headset cell phone interface jack |
I have a Lightspeed headset with a Cell phone interface jack that I would
like to wire to the Speaker/mic jack on my VXA150 handheld radio. I could
then occasionally use my back-up radio as a second Comm, without an audio
panel and monitor 2 frequencies at once. Anyone know of any reason why this
wouldn't work? DNA
Chris Brooks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Lein <pj115(at)journey.com> |
Now that spring is here I am listing my flying RV6a for sale. $70,000.
Spec sheet and photos from Paul at 989 644-2451 or pjlein(at)journey.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Wally Messages Stopped! |
Dear Listers,
My sincere apologies! At about 4:30am this morning there was an odd system
problem on the Matornics email server, causing many mail files to become
marked as "read-only". This wedged many of the List filters causing all
sorts of weird behavior. Perhaps the oddest was that an innocent message
from Walter Critchlow, kept getting posted instead of the actual incoming
List message.
If you receive this message, and sent a list message to any of the lists
your message was one of the ones that got subverted. Please repost your
message to the respective list.
AeroElectric-list
Commandaer-list
Engines-List
Europa-List
Kitfox-List
Kolb-List
Pietenpol-List
Rocket-List
RV-List
RV9-List
RV10-List
Tailwind-List
Yak-List
Zenith-List
Again, my sincere apologies for the problems. I was doing my Taxes (!)
today and wasn't keeping as close an eye on the Lists as I normally do.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Lyc Oil change interval |
This is a maintenance dilemma question that is in no way RV-specific; DELETE now
if not interested :-)
I always change my O-320's oil and spin-on filter every 50 hours (and do oil analysis,
BTW). It's been 47 hours since last oil change, and chances are good
with the weather pattern predicted for this week and my evening commitments to
things other than aviation, that I will be hard-pressed to get in an oil change
before leaving for the 8-hour round trip to Sun-N-Fun (yeah, baby!)
Should I :
1) forget the tach reading and motor on to Lakeland, promising to change the oil
as soon as I get back;
2) run the engine on the ground under soggy IFR skies tomorrow, warming the oil,
and then change it without flying first, before the big trip,
3) Add generous amounts of Marvel Mystery Oil and AvBlend to the oil that's already
in there (AeroShell 15W-50) and never have to change oil again as long as
I own my plane,
4) cancel my Sun-N-Fun adventure, as this entire oil-change dilemmma demonstrates
poor planning and an attiutude unbecoming to a good airman,
5) Buck up and quit agonizing over this; the wx this week will be better than forecsast
and there will be several opportunities to fly after work and then do
a proper warm-engine oil change and compression check.
What Would You Do?
I realize I have (sadistically) withheld information critical to making this decision,
such as what prop I have and whether it's a tailwheel RV, and what kind
of primer is under the paint; just do the best you can with the test question.
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna doubler plates |
Fellow listers,
I am starting the installation of my Comant CI122 com antenna on the underbelly
of my RV6A.
All I can find in the archives is Eric Newton's post on a 3" x 6" x .040 doubler
along with a couple of others that indicate that one is required/has been used
- check the 43.13. No mention of the basis for the dimensions used.
Obviously, the AC 43.13 should have info on the determination of the appropriate
dimensions - but I have not learned to read that mumbo jumbo well enough to
get any usable information from it.
If someone could point out the correct paragraph or how they arrived at their specific
numbers, I would greatly appreciate it.
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Antenna doubler plates |
Ralph,
For a whip antenna AC 43.13-2A does not even show a doubler. The general
rule-of-thumb that I use for whip antenna installation is at least a 1 inch
edge past any/all screw holes or the outer edge of the antenna base,
whichever is wider.
Use this info at your own risk.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: avionics-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Antenna doubler plates
>Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:07:12 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
>
>
>Fellow listers,
>
>I am starting the installation of my Comant CI122 com antenna on the
>underbelly of my RV6A.
>
>All I can find in the archives is Eric Newton's post on a 3" x 6" x .040
>doubler along with a couple of others that indicate that one is
>required/has been used - check the 43.13. No mention of the basis for the
>dimensions used.
>
>Obviously, the AC 43.13 should have info on the determination of the
>appropriate dimensions - but I have not learned to read that mumbo jumbo
>well enough to get any usable information from it.
>
>If someone could point out the correct paragraph or how they arrived at
>their specific numbers, I would greatly appreciate it.
>
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB N822AR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna doubler plates |
Mike,
Anything on thickness?
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Problem Resolved - Debrief (LONG) |
Several weeks ago, I posted an e-mail soliciting help on a fuel flow problem
in my -4. I received several helpful responses and have since solved the
problem. The root cause was unexpected and rather interesting, so I am
telling the rest of the story...
My IO-360 would not start because it was unable to generate sufficient
pressure or flow to prime the system. I inspected the fuel system starting
at the spider. I traced the problem back to the electric fuel pump. The
pump ran, drew some current and would produce some flow, but very little
pressure. With great difficulty, I removed the pump and returned it to
Airflow Performance for repair. Don Rivera at Airflow checked the pump and
found it to perform flawlessly. After a brief discussion, we agreed that he
would open the check valve and inspect the interior. Inside the valve body
he found some foreign material of unknown origin that could have prevented
the valve from seating properly.
This check valve serves as a by-pass valve that allows fuel to return
through the pump once the outlet pressure reaches the setpoint (25-35psi?).
With this valve open, the fuel followed the path of least resistance and
circulated around the pump with delivering any pressure to the engine. Don
cleaned the valve and returned the pump to me the same day he received it.
We discussed the origin of the contaminents in the valve bodies and reviewed
the fact that my fuel filter is down stream from the pump. (I knew at the
time this was not the best installation, but could not find a good place to
locate the the filter before the pump.) Incidentally, the fuel filter was
completely clean when I inspected it during the initial fuel system
inspection.
At about the same time of my fuel problem, I noticed that the small fuel
stain on the wing root fairing had grown. Removing the fairing from the
port wing showed a small fuel leak at the seal between the tank root rib and
the access cover. Reluctantly, I drained the remaining fuel, and removed
the tank to inspect and re-seal the access cover. I found that the sealant
had completely deteriorated and readily crumbled as I removed the cover.
Just for fun, I filtered the fuel as I drained it by unscrewing the fuel
drain. The particulate described by Don looked just like the material I
captured in the filter as well as the crumbling material that fell into the
tank as I removed the cover. Oddly, this material was not captured during
my pre-flight fuel sampling rituals.
During the building of my tanks, there were numerous posts on the RV List
about using cork gaskets or not and using Pro-Seal or Permatex sealing for
access panels. Nothing seals like Pro-Seal, but it would be tough to remove
should I need to open the cover. I opted for Permatex with a cork gasket.
Big Mistake. After less than 4 years of flying, both the Permatex and the
cork had broken down. On the plus side, it took only a few minutes to
remove all traces of cork and Permatex. I re-sealed the cover with Pro-Seal
and re-installed the tank and once again have an airworthy aircraft. My
starboard tank was also built using Permatex and cork, but shows no signs of
leaking. Obviously, I will keep and eye on this issue. I offer two
suggestions to current builders:
1. Put filter(s) before the fuel pump and fuel selector valve if possible.
I plan to look into putting a filter under the floor boards near each wing
root.
2. Never use cork or Permatex to seal access ports in fuel tanks. PPG
Industries/PRC-DeSoto/Pro-Seal manufactures a polysulfide sealant
specifically designed for access panels. P/N PR-1773 is a lower adhesion
product designed to facilitate removal without undermining its sealing
qualities.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
Results from spin testing my RV.
I have been flying my RV for over three years and finally have gotten
around to doing spins. I had heard so much bad press about RV6s and spins
(all from the RV list), I was quite sure I was going to die if I ever did a
spin.
But, I am practicing for future aerobatic competitions and one of the
maneuvers is a 1 to 2 turn spin for sportsman category. So I decided I had
better learn how to spin the RV.
In my RV I found it spins just like a Cessna 172. A few MPH above stall,
apply full rudder and then full aft stick and there you have it, instant spin.
Now getting into a spin is not that hard, it is the getting out that makes
all the difference. Following the instructions in the RV6 builders manual
resulted in a 1/4 turn spin recovery on my first spin. Just like the
manual says. NOTE: I have the instructions in outline form pasted on my
panel, just in case.
I have worked up to 1 1/2 turn spins and it comes out of the spin
easily. As soon as I release the rudder pressure it stops spinning. I do
not even have to apply opposite rudder. One time I did use opposite rudder
before I released back pressure and it started spinning the other
way. When I released back pressure it stopped immediately. What an airplane!!
I have not tried the Beggs-Mueller technique as I am not too keen on
letting go of the stick. But holding ailerons neutral and releasing back
pressure works for me.
One spin I did yesterday did not work, I did not apply fully rudder and the
aircraft yawed and dropped a wing but would not spin. It takes forceful
spin input to get into the spin and then keep it there.
I am not encouraging anyone to go and do spins, but after hearing all the
bad stuff on the RV list about spins, I thought I would put some people's
mind to rest, an RV6 can be recovered from a spin and with enough altitude
you will not die!! I loose about 850 feet in a one rotation spin.
I just thought you might want to know my results.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | RV Fly-In - Chino, CA - May 21, 2005 |
Dave Klages and the "Chino Power Squadron" are hosting an RV fly-in and BBQ
at Chino, CA (KCNO). It coincides with the Planes of Fame annual air show
on Saturday May 21, 2005. Just about all the details are here:
http://www.rvproject.com/chino_flyin.html
Hope to see you there!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
Bob,
I read your email carefully and I commend you for not encouraging people to
spin RV-6's. What I heard you say was, you spun yours and it was not a big
deal. That mean that spinning other RV-6's might not be a big deal.
I have not spun an RV-6. I have no doubt that your observation is correct
and under the correct circumstances most RV-6's spins and recovers normally.
The problem is very small differences in airframes and C.G. can have huge
impacts on the spin, and more importantly, recovery characteristics of an
airplane. Further, a spin is not fully developed until it becomes stable
and that may take 3 or more turns.
Van has reasons for encouraging people not to spin RV-6's. My guess is they
have found some unpredictability at rearward C.G.s or dramatic differences
based on fairing installations or the combination of both, that could lead
to some unsatisfactory spin characteristics.
I have spun my -4 several times and I have cockpit video of it, which I have
debated posting it publicly. My fear is, it would encourage others to do
more spinning and while I think spinning is great training, and I encourage
it, I encourage it be done in a Citabria or something similar.
I have said it here many times, and I repeat, the RV does great aerobatics,
but it is a lousy aerobatic airplane. It is too clean, too fast, and stalls
too slow. In short, too much G-available. An RV-8 at Vne has 18.5 G's
available. Three times it's structural limit, and twice it's ultimate limit.
With the ailerons deflected the rule of thumb says reduce those by 1/3 so
then you have 3 times the ultimate limit and 4.5 times the structural limit.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
>
Big Snip here:
>
> I am not encouraging anyone to go and do spins, but after hearing all the
> bad stuff on the RV list about spins, I thought I would put some people's
> mind to rest, an RV6 can be recovered from a spin and with enough altitude
> you will not die!! I loose about 850 feet in a one rotation spin.
>
> I just thought you might want to know my results.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
Bob,
I understood from the early Vans report that the spins became problematic (read
scary) when fully
developed after 2-3 turns. Perhaps the rotation rate increases and the spin behaviour
changes.
Factors which alter the spin acceleration include the angular moment of inertia
around the three
Axis. So pounds further from the axis for example in the wingtips (eg wing tip
strobe power
supplies, tip fuel tanks, full fuel tanks, heavy engine/propellor) would increase
this moment of
inertia.
A higher moment of inertia will slow both the acceleration and more importantly
the deceleration of
the spin. The real problem comes when the fin/rudder is insufficient to stop the
spin at the high rates.
So my question, what was the configuraton of your aircraft when you were doing
these spins?
Engine/propellor, tip tanks, fuel load and AUW at the time etc.
I too plan to spin my RV-6 (mandatory IMHO if you plan to da any aero's) so I am
very interested to
calibrate your experiance.
Doug Gray
RV-6 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Lumpkin <tlump51(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Problem Resolved - Debrief (LONG) |
Thanks for the information. I talked to Don from Airflow Performance when installing
my fuel injection system (This was about 3 years ago but the plane has
only been flying two months). At the time he recommended that I install the fuel
filter downstream from the pump because they had experienced cavitation problems
at the pump with the reverse method.
I also used Permatex/cork. Looks like I have a change to make at annual time.
Ted
Dean Pichon wrote:
I offer two
suggestions to current builders:
1. Put filter(s) before the fuel pump and fuel selector valve if possible.
I plan to look into putting a filter under the floor boards near each wing
root.
2. Never use cork or Permatex to seal access ports in fuel tanks. PPG
Industries/PRC-DeSoto/Pro-Seal manufactures a polysulfide sealant
specifically designed for access panels. P/N PR-1773 is a lower adhesion
product designed to facilitate removal without undermining its sealing
qualities.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Problem Resolved - Debrief (LONG) |
Dean,
Thanks for sharing your discovery with us. Regarding relocating your fuel filter,
I have a suggestion. Airflow Performance uses a filter made by a company called
Flow Ezy. They use model 6-ILA. Flow Ezy also makes a slightly smaller model
called the 4-ILA. You can see more about this at:
http://198.170.245.162/racingMODEL_4ILA.html
and
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=3469
You can purchase these filters from RV-9A builder Chris Heitman. Chris is the
owner of Pegasus Auto Racing. I contacted him last year and asked him if he would
consider carrying these, if I would arrange a group purchase. The local RV
builders bought a dozen of these for our projects. We mount one in each wing
root area. This eliminates the problem you experienced. It also eliminates the
difficult servicing and spilling of fuel in the cockpit. Best of all, clogging
the filter can be overcome by merely switching fuel tanks. (Eliminates a single
point of failure).
I know that others will chime in with similar products for less money. So far,
all the competing products have straight AN816-6D style ends machined into them.
Others feel that this is a plus. (Less expense and fewer joints) I do not
agree. If you need a 45 or 90 degree fitting out of the filter due to clearance
considerations, you are out of luck. Strip the male AN end on an "all in one"
unit, and it's junk.
The Flow Ezy filters allow choice of filtration level. The Airflow Performance
units come with 74 micron filter elements. We purchased ours with 25 micron elements.
I would also suggest that you order them with Viton, rather than Nitrile
O-rings. Vition is virtually impervious to all chemicals. Nitrale does not
always like (it may shrink) unleaded fuels. Even if you don't currently use auto
fuel, 100LL isn't going to last forever. Additionally, since Don uses the
Flow Ezy filters with his FI setup, I suspect he'd be happier if you stuck with
their products.
I would like to suggest that your debris problem originated with the Permatex
Aviation Sealer. I HATE that stuff. It is not a particularly good sealant in my
view. It is difficult to remove and is NOT certified for aviation use. (Go figure,
how do they call it aviation?)
Cork has been used in automotive and aircraft fuel systems for decades. It holds
up quite well, although the ProSeal (and varients) are better. Just my opinion
and worth what you paid for it.
Charlie Kuss
---- Dean Pichon wrote:
>
> Several weeks ago, I posted an e-mail soliciting help on a fuel flow problem
> in my -4. I received several helpful responses and have since solved the
> problem. The root cause was unexpected and rather interesting, so I am
> telling the rest of the story...
>
> My IO-360 would not start because it was unable to generate sufficient
> pressure or flow to prime the system. I inspected the fuel system starting
> at the spider. I traced the problem back to the electric fuel pump. The
> pump ran, drew some current and would produce some flow, but very little
> pressure. With great difficulty, I removed the pump and returned it to
> Airflow Performance for repair. Don Rivera at Airflow checked the pump and
> found it to perform flawlessly. After a brief discussion, we agreed that he
> would open the check valve and inspect the interior. Inside the valve body
> he found some foreign material of unknown origin that could have prevented
> the valve from seating properly.
>
> This check valve serves as a by-pass valve that allows fuel to return
> through the pump once the outlet pressure reaches the setpoint (25-35psi?).
> With this valve open, the fuel followed the path of least resistance and
> circulated around the pump with delivering any pressure to the engine. Don
> cleaned the valve and returned the pump to me the same day he received it.
> We discussed the origin of the contaminents in the valve bodies and reviewed
> the fact that my fuel filter is down stream from the pump. (I knew at the
> time this was not the best installation, but could not find a good place to
> locate the the filter before the pump.) Incidentally, the fuel filter was
> completely clean when I inspected it during the initial fuel system
> inspection.
>
> At about the same time of my fuel problem, I noticed that the small fuel
> stain on the wing root fairing had grown. Removing the fairing from the
> port wing showed a small fuel leak at the seal between the tank root rib and
> the access cover. Reluctantly, I drained the remaining fuel, and removed
> the tank to inspect and re-seal the access cover. I found that the sealant
> had completely deteriorated and readily crumbled as I removed the cover.
> Just for fun, I filtered the fuel as I drained it by unscrewing the fuel
> drain. The particulate described by Don looked just like the material I
> captured in the filter as well as the crumbling material that fell into the
> tank as I removed the cover. Oddly, this material was not captured during
> my pre-flight fuel sampling rituals.
>
> During the building of my tanks, there were numerous posts on the RV List
> about using cork gaskets or not and using Pro-Seal or Permatex sealing for
> access panels. Nothing seals like Pro-Seal, but it would be tough to remove
> should I need to open the cover. I opted for Permatex with a cork gasket.
> Big Mistake. After less than 4 years of flying, both the Permatex and the
> cork had broken down. On the plus side, it took only a few minutes to
> remove all traces of cork and Permatex. I re-sealed the cover with Pro-Seal
> and re-installed the tank and once again have an airworthy aircraft. My
> starboard tank was also built using Permatex and cork, but shows no signs of
> leaking. Obviously, I will keep and eye on this issue. I offer two
> suggestions to current builders:
>
> 1. Put filter(s) before the fuel pump and fuel selector valve if possible.
> I plan to look into putting a filter under the floor boards near each wing
> root.
> 2. Never use cork or Permatex to seal access ports in fuel tanks. PPG
> Industries/PRC-DeSoto/Pro-Seal manufactures a polysulfide sealant
> specifically designed for access panels. P/N PR-1773 is a lower adhesion
> product designed to facilitate removal without undermining its sealing
> qualities.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
I've seen this somewhere but cannot seem to find the pictures now. I'm
looking for pictures of a plenum that had a top to the baffles fastened with
hinge pins forming a plenum. I'm interesting is seeing how the pins were
retained. Has anyone else done this who can send me a picture or two or
direct me to a web site? Thanks in advance.
Marty in Brentwood TN RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Marty:
Here is the web page for Jeff Point's plenum setup.........
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/plenum.htm
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Just about to head to the airport
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Plenum
>
> I've seen this somewhere but cannot seem to find the pictures now. I'm
> looking for pictures of a plenum that had a top to the baffles fastened
> with
> hinge pins forming a plenum. I'm interesting is seeing how the pins were
> retained. Has anyone else done this who can send me a picture or two or
> direct me to a web site? Thanks in advance.
>
> Marty in Brentwood TN RV-6A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Should I or shouldn't I |
List:
This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who are flying their creations.
If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the airport, would
you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A version prior to getting
everything completed? Those of you that are flying the 6/6A, do you ever
wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to fishtail that apparent
with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
One thing that I have to consider is that I have an 0320 E2D with a Catto three
blade, which may bring CG into the picture.
Just wondering what those that have gone before would do.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Just about to head to the airport
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | FW: External Power Socket |
-----Original Message-----
From: Kosta Lewis [mailto:mikel(at)dimensional.com]
Subject: RE: External Power Socket
Hey, Wayne: The male end is made to mount on something (look at any
trailer brake light setup on a car/truck) and the female end is made to
stick into that receptacle; the rest of the time it dangles from the
trailer. Even if I had figured out a way to mount the female end, the
contacts on it are still slightly exposed. My setup works well. The
prongs for the male end are recessed in but not quite far enough that a
zipper pull from a flight suit cannot get in thereZAPFLASH. Only had to
happen once for me to put a cover on it. If you look at aviation
jump/recharge plugs, the male end is mounted on the aircraft (it is an
ugly external cover on the fuselage of some aircraft, most are in the
engine compartment, I believe) and the female end is on the power cart
and sticks into it.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>Why didn't you install the female fitting in the aircraft? For safety
>reasons almost every other type of appliance and electrical recepticals
has
>the female portion mounted with the contacts sheilded from accidently
>contact. Was there a reason for doing it your way?
>> I used a connector for trailer hookup on a car/truck that is used for
>> hooking up trailer lights. I have it on the left side of the console
and
>> have the wires placed to avoid pole reversal. It is lightweight,
>> inexpensive, readily available, unobtrusive and can be mounted
> externally if necessary. The 'female' socket only goes in one way, and
> can handle charging currents without worry about over-amping the
wires.
> It is wired directly to the battery with a 30 amp fuse in the way. I
> carry the charging attachment with me (female plug) and have used it
on
> the road once. Wouldn't be without it, especially in a -4 where the
> battery is buried under the radio stack and center console.
>
> The 'male' fitting that goes on the console (or wherever) needs to be
> covered (simple aluminum plate) as this is a live connection and can
> short out if touched by, say, a leg zipper on a flight suit. Ask me
how
> I know that. Gets your attention right away. The fuse needs to be
easily
> accessible.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Should I or shouldn't I |
Go fly it as is and change it later if you feel the need. I have 600 hours
in my 6A and have no desire to change the tail...even if approved.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Should I or shouldn't I |
>
> List:
>
> This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who are flying
> their creations.
>
> If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the
> airport, would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A
> version prior to getting everything completed? Those of you that are
> flying the 6/6A, do you ever wish you had more rudder authority?
My 6 seems perfectly normal to me and I have never had any desire to change
the tail. Maybe I would feel different if I had flown a 7. I don't think
the 6 has any unusual fishtailing tendencies but then I do think it rides
really rough. I think both opinions may be in the minority.
Jerry Springer put a 9 vertical tail on his 6 but don't recall if he ever
said much about the flying differences.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
March 28, 2005 - April 11, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-qs