>
> If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the
> airport, would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A
> version prior to getting everything completed?
Oh, and aesthetically I prefer the shorter 6 tail. Kind of racy looking you
know, and the stubby RV-6 can use some of that.
Larry Pardue
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 11, 2005
From:
Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Ron Lee wrote:
>
>Go fly it as is and change it later if you feel the need. I have 600 hours
>in my 6A and have no desire to change the tail...even if approved.
>
>Ron Lee
>
>
>
>
It's approved, been there and done that. I flew my -6 for about a
thousand hours with the original
stab and rudder. IMO the -6 never had quite enough rudder in cross wind
landings. That is just my
opinion and others may disagree. With the new -7 stab and rudder I feel
much more comfortable
doing x-wind landings. I also find that it has a more solid feel in
turbulance and it dampens out the
so called "fishtail." Would I do it again? Yes I would, I like the way
it handles on the gorund and in the
air.
And Larry I like the way it looks:-) I just need to get it painted.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 11, 2005
From:
"Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Hi Jeff,
I'm in the unique position of having both at the moment. My "old" RV6 is the short
tailed one, and my newer RV6 has the RF7/9 tail on it. That one had an O-320/FP
prop, but is being retrofitted at the moment with a 360/CS.
Here's the deal with the little tailed plane. The short tailed RV's do wag in
bumpy air. You get used to it pretty quickly and don't even notice it after awhile,
but those who don't fly the short tails notice it quite quickly when riding
with me in bumpy air. My short tailed (Old REALLY short tail that is) RV6
runs out of rudder somewhere around 15-18KT of direct XWind.
Now, my big tailed beauty handles much nicer in XWinds, I've never used much more
than 1/2 rudder (the rv7/9 rudder is nearly twice the size in area of the old
short rudder). That being said, I am swapping out the O-320 because the RV7/9
tail is quite a lot heavier than the -6 short tail, and being a taildragger
(which are kind of tail heavy anyway), I ended up with very little baggage with
the -320 on front. So, I'm hanging a -360 and C/S prop on front, which should
bring my CG right back into the center and allow me to a haul to fat guys
like me, full fuel and as much baggage as I can cram in there. Such is the case
with my short tailed RV.
Anyway, I can't say with certainty what the behavior on the nosedragger would be,
but I like my big tailed RV more than the short tailed one in x winds and bumpy
air.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein.
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 21:49:59 -0500
>
>List:
>
>This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who are flying their creations.
>
>If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the airport, would
you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A version prior to getting
everything completed? Those of you that are flying the 6/6A, do you ever
wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to fishtail that apparent
with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
>
>One thing that I have to consider is that I have an 0320 E2D with a Catto three
blade, which may bring CG into the picture.
>
>Just wondering what those that have gone before would do.
>
>
>Regards,
>
>
>Jeff Orear
>RV6A N782P (reserved)
>Just about to head to the airport
>Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Date:
Apr 11, 2005
I think you'll find very few -6 drivers who wish they had the bigger V-stab.
Of course if we were to try both ways like Jerry, perhaps we'd feel
differently. But IMHO the original -6 tail is certainly sufficient.
As someone else said on this list some years ago, "My RV wags its tail
because its HAPPY!"
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Date:
Apr 11, 2005
I remember when I first started flying my -8 that it would tail wag quite a
bit... I ended up squeezing the rudder trailing edge to make it sharper...
It made a HUGE difference... Night and day...
if you don't have a sharp edge you can get separation of the air over the
trialing edge of the rudder on one side and then the other... This can
cause a wag, which is exaggerated in turbulence...
Doesn't the -7 and -9 tail have the new sandwiched trailing edge? Maybe
this is the cure for the tail wag and not necessarily the larger tail...
Just a thought...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Should I or shouldn't I
Hi Jeff,
I'm in the unique position of having both at the moment. My "old" RV6 is
the short tailed one, and my newer RV6 has the RF7/9 tail on it. That one
had an O-320/FP prop, but is being retrofitted at the moment with a 360/CS.
Here's the deal with the little tailed plane. The short tailed RV's do wag
in bumpy air. You get used to it pretty quickly and don't even notice it
after awhile, but those who don't fly the short tails notice it quite
quickly when riding with me in bumpy air. My short tailed (Old REALLY short
tail that is) RV6 runs out of rudder somewhere around 15-18KT of direct
XWind.
Now, my big tailed beauty handles much nicer in XWinds, I've never used much
more than 1/2 rudder (the rv7/9 rudder is nearly twice the size in area of
the old short rudder). That being said, I am swapping out the O-320 because
the RV7/9 tail is quite a lot heavier than the -6 short tail, and being a
taildragger (which are kind of tail heavy anyway), I ended up with very
little baggage with the -320 on front. So, I'm hanging a -360 and C/S prop
on front, which should bring my CG right back into the center and allow me
to a haul to fat guys like me, full fuel and as much baggage as I can cram
in there. Such is the case with my short tailed RV.
Anyway, I can't say with certainty what the behavior on the nosedragger
would be, but I like my big tailed RV more than the short tailed one in x
winds and bumpy air.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein.
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 21:49:59 -0500
>
>List:
>
>This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who are flying their
>creations.
>
>If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the
>airport, would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A version
>prior to getting everything completed? Those of you that are flying the
>6/6A, do you ever wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to
>fishtail that apparent with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
>
>One thing that I have to consider is that I have an 0320 E2D with a Catto
>three blade, which may bring CG into the picture.
>
>Just wondering what those that have gone before would do.
>
>
>Regards,
>
>
>Jeff Orear
>RV6A N782P (reserved)
>Just about to head to the airport
>Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 11, 2005
From:
AVIATION GROUP <aviationgrp(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Aviation News
AVIATION News Group to view & share your valuable comments and the latest trends
and happenings in the aviation industry.
Please click on the attached yahoo group link site to share & receive the updates
on the latest happenings, business ventures, business opportunities, Air Shows
and Exhibitions, New Aircraft releases, and certifications, Career news, Appointments
etc.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AVIATION-NEWS/
Please take few moments recommend us to your near & dears in the industry. We
welcome your valuable comments and updates.
With best regards
AVIATION NEWS.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AVIATION-NEWS/
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
heavy rt wing problem
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
I have been compensating for this with the manual aileron trim I installed on my
6a. Yesterday the light was shining on the Rt wing in such a way that i could
see a slight upturn of the wing skin at the aileron joint for about 3' along
the joint from the outer end. The lft side is fine. That would certainly cause
the rt wing to pull down a bit. I didnt build the plane and not sure how this
could be fixed, if at all. I wondered if anyone had experienced this, or have
a posible fix for it. Charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject:
Antenna doubler plates
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
In general I use the rule of thumb to use a thickness equal to the skin
thickness, but that can be changed to thicker material depending on the
weight and drag of the item being mounted. In this case I think a double
plate of .025-.032 is about right.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Antenna doubler plates
>Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:42:28 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
>
>
>Mike,
>
>Anything on thickness?
>
>Ralph
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Antenna doubler plates
>
>
>Ralph,
>
>For a whip antenna AC 43.13-2A does not even show a doubler. The general
>rule-of-thumb that I use for whip antenna installation is at least a 1 inch
>edge past any/all screw holes or the outer edge of the antenna base,
>whichever is wider.
>Use this info at your own risk.
>
>Mike Robertson
>
> >From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: avionics-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Antenna doubler plates
> >Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:07:12 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
> >
> >
> >Fellow listers,
> >
> >I am starting the installation of my Comant CI122 com antenna on the
> >underbelly of my RV6A.
> >
> >All I can find in the archives is Eric Newton's post on a 3" x 6" x .040
> >doubler along with a couple of others that indicate that one is
> >required/has been used - check the 43.13. No mention of the basis for
>the
> >dimensions used.
> >
> >Obviously, the AC 43.13 should have info on the determination of the
> >appropriate dimensions - but I have not learned to read that mumbo jumbo
> >well enough to get any usable information from it.
> >
> >If someone could point out the correct paragraph or how they arrived at
> >their specific numbers, I would greatly appreciate it.
> >
> >Ralph Capen
> >RV6AQB N822AR
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
From:
"Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject:
Antenna doubler plates
Thanks Mike...!
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Antenna doubler plates
In general I use the rule of thumb to use a thickness equal to the skin
thickness, but that can be changed to thicker material depending on the
weight and drag of the item being mounted. In this case I think a double
plate of .025-.032 is about right.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Antenna doubler plates
>Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:42:28 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
>
>
>Mike,
>
>Anything on thickness?
>
>Ralph
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Antenna doubler plates
>
>
>Ralph,
>
>For a whip antenna AC 43.13-2A does not even show a doubler. The general
>rule-of-thumb that I use for whip antenna installation is at least a 1 inch
>edge past any/all screw holes or the outer edge of the antenna base,
>whichever is wider.
>Use this info at your own risk.
>
>Mike Robertson
>
> >From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: avionics-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Antenna doubler plates
> >Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:07:12 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
> >
> >
> >Fellow listers,
> >
> >I am starting the installation of my Comant CI122 com antenna on the
> >underbelly of my RV6A.
> >
> >All I can find in the archives is Eric Newton's post on a 3" x 6" x .040
> >doubler along with a couple of others that indicate that one is
> >required/has been used - check the 43.13. No mention of the basis for
>the
> >dimensions used.
> >
> >Obviously, the AC 43.13 should have info on the determination of the
> >appropriate dimensions - but I have not learned to read that mumbo jumbo
> >well enough to get any usable information from it.
> >
> >If someone could point out the correct paragraph or how they arrived at
> >their specific numbers, I would greatly appreciate it.
> >
> >Ralph Capen
> >RV6AQB N822AR
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
I would not undo anything at this point. Just go fly it and see how you
like it. I think you will be very happy with your 6 just the way it is.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Date:
Apr 11, 2005
I had 1.3 hours dual in an RV-6 and it "hunted" directionally. This is a
fairly common observation.
- If I could increase the vertical stab area easily, I would. More
rudder isn't the issue - it is vertical stab area.
- Might consider a "dorsal fin" extending fwd from base of vertical
stab (like a Cessna) - should be an easier way of increasing yaw stability
vs an entirely new RV-7 vertical stab & rudder.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Should I or shouldn't I
>
> List:
>
> This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who are flying
their creations.
>
> If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the
airport, would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A version
prior to getting everything completed? Those of you that are flying the
6/6A, do you ever wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to
fishtail that apparent with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
>
> One thing that I have to consider is that I have an 0320 E2D with a Catto
three blade, which may bring CG into the picture.
>
> Just wondering what those that have gone before would do.
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> Just about to head to the airport
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
From:
John <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Directional stability in turbulence was something I noticed in my RV6A
but didn't worry about too much. After I installed vortex generators on
the wings the wobble or fishtailing in rough air stopped. Nada.
John
David Carter wrote:
>
>I had 1.3 hours dual in an RV-6 and it "hunted" directionally. This is a
>fairly common observation.
> - If I could increase the vertical stab area easily, I would. More
>rudder isn't the issue - it is vertical stab area.
> - Might consider a "dorsal fin" extending fwd from base of vertical
>stab (like a Cessna) - should be an easier way of increasing yaw stability
>vs an entirely new RV-7 vertical stab & rudder.
>
>David
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Should I or shouldn't I
>
>
>
>
>>
>>List:
>>
>>This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who are flying
>>
>>
>their creations.
>
>
>>If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the
>>
>>
>airport, would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A version
>prior to getting everything completed? Those of you that are flying the
>6/6A, do you ever wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to
>fishtail that apparent with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
>
>
>>One thing that I have to consider is that I have an 0320 E2D with a Catto
>>
>>
>three blade, which may bring CG into the picture.
>
>
>>Just wondering what those that have gone before would do.
>>
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>
>>Jeff Orear
>>RV6A N782P (reserved)
>>Just about to head to the airport
>>Peshtigo, WI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
That is really interesting! I'm planning to add vgs after I fly the
airplane a few hours and get baseline data for comparison.
- It is easy to "assume" that fishtailing is due to inadequate vertical
fin area, but . . .
- One fellow just mentioned he squeezed his rudder trailing edge and
that fixed the problem. A little asymmetrical shedding of air off left and
right sides of rudder actually make the rudder move, thus the fishtailing. .
. .
- You added vg's - asymmetrical shedding of turbulent flow over wings
by fuselage could do the same thing.
- Lots of variables!
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Should I or shouldn't I
>
> Directional stability in turbulence was something I noticed in my RV6A
> but didn't worry about too much. After I installed vortex generators on
> the wings the wobble or fishtailing in rough air stopped. Nada.
>
> John
>
> David Carter wrote:
>
> >
> >I had 1.3 hours dual in an RV-6 and it "hunted" directionally. This is a
> >fairly common observation.
> > - If I could increase the vertical stab area easily, I would. More
> >rudder isn't the issue - it is vertical stab area.
> > - Might consider a "dorsal fin" extending fwd from base of vertical
> >stab (like a Cessna) - should be an easier way of increasing yaw
stability
> >vs an entirely new RV-7 vertical stab & rudder.
> >
> >David
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: Should I or shouldn't I
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>List:
> >>
> >>This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who are flying
> >>
> >>
> >their creations.
> >
> >
> >>If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the
> >>
> >>
> >airport, would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A
version
> >prior to getting everything completed? Those of you that are flying the
> >6/6A, do you ever wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to
> >fishtail that apparent with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
> >
> >
> >>One thing that I have to consider is that I have an 0320 E2D with a
Catto
> >>
> >>
> >three blade, which may bring CG into the picture.
> >
> >
> >>Just wondering what those that have gone before would do.
> >>
> >>
> >>Regards,
> >>
> >>
> >>Jeff Orear
> >>RV6A N782P (reserved)
> >>Just about to head to the airport
> >>Peshtigo, WI
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
From:
John <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject:
Re: Your VG's?
Jerry and Konrad et al,
I got the vg's from an outfit in Washington State...don't recall exactly
where,..I believe that they are available from the fellow that makes
exhaust systems for RV's also...same price as I recall...around $400 (vs
$1,200-1600 or thereabouts if put on a certified plane.)
As to installation, its dead-brain simple. You measure forward for the
leading edge skin-main skin seam so many inches and mark it. A stickon
sheet with the places to put the vg's is already cut out shows you the
exact location to put them. You scuff up the paint, and use the supplied
Lock Tite to install them. Its a two part liquid. You hold them in place
for about one minute and they're there for good. Never had one come
loose. Total installation time about 2 hours at max.
Performance - somewhat subjective - I "feel" more advance warning about
an impending stall. The stall is FAR, FAR more gentle...power off stalls
are really just a good 'mush' with no wing drop....indicated stall
speeds (accuracy at stall angle is really inexact) but my guess is that
its about 5 MPH slower as I can tell from GPS - again, thats a crude
measurement because its happening pretty fast....Rough air fishtailiing
seems no longer to be present. Now if we could get something that would
stop the up and down bouncing that now and then gives you a head bump,
we'd be on to something!
I fly in fairly rugged country near the continental divide with
14,000-ft hills nearby...if I had to go down there aren't many good
spots for an emergency landing and a reduction of even 5MPH might save
my rear. I see the vg's as a safety feature.
John
Konrad L. Werner wrote:
> Dear John,
> Could you please tell me more about these Vortex Generators on your RV?
> What / Why / Where / Who, etc.
> Thanks,
> Konrad
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
Subject:
[ Jeff Deuchar ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From:
Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jeff Deuchar
Lists: RV-List,Rocket-List
Subject: Photos of Eric Hansen's rocket with new paint scheme, and Ken
Fowler's rocket.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/F1Rocket@telus.net.04.12.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
From:
Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject:
Re: Your VG's?
Probably Larry Vetterman
vetxaust(at)gwtc.net
(605) 745-5932
http://www.ontariorvators.org/pitot/pitot.htm
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
From:
Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
Subject:
[Fwd: [VAF Mailing List] RV-6A Down - not fatal]
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] RV-6A Down - not fatal
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 19:34:58 -0500
From: Jim Smith <jsmith(at)openairnet.com>
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2005/04/12/HAYWARD12.TMP
A pilot crash-landed a small airplane in a Hayward parking lot early today
after having engine problems shortly after taking off at the city's
airport, officials said.
The 70-year-old pilot departed from Hayward Executive Airport at 8:50 a.m.
and immediately radioed the airport tower with the message that he had a
dead engine, a Federal Aviation Administration spokesman said.
He got out of the experimental plane after landing it in an industrial
area near Soto Road and Jackson Street, about four miles from the airport,
officials said. The plane collided with two unoccupied city vehicles,
officials sad.
The unidentified pilot was taken to a local hospital. Police said the
man's injuries did not appear to be life-threatening.
An airport spokeswoman said the pilot of the home-built RV-6 plane, who
was the only person on board the craft, was bleeding from the head and leg
after the crash.
No other people were reported injured.
The plane crashed into a storage area called Hayward Corporation Yard
where city equipment and recycling bins are kept.
Serial Number 22305 Type Registration Individual
Manufacturer Name NEWELL THOMAS J Certificate Issue Date 09/05/2003
Model RV6A Status Valid
Type Aircraft Fixed Wing Single-Engine Type Engine Reciprocating
Pending Number Change None Dealer No
Date Change Authorized None Mode S Code 50170413
MFR Year 1998 Fractional Owner NO
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--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject:
vg's for windscreen clearing
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
I have noticed patterns of "dead" air on the windscreen of my 6A. What I
mean is that if flying in mist, there is minimal tendency for the airstream
to blow beads of water from the center two feet or so of the windscreen. I
have flown side by side with 8's which do not seem to have this problem. It
doesn't matter if I use rain-ex (I've done tests with other products as
well, covering the left half of the windscreen and looking for mist to fly
in - no difference). The general problem seems to be a lack of high
velocity air near the windscreen. I've even noticed when flying in light
snow flurries that one can see individual snowflakes as they momentarily
pause just ahead of the windscreen.
The question is: Would placing a few vg's ahead of the windscreen help this?
And, have others noticed this phenomenon?
Thanks -
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 608 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
<http://www.home.earthlink.net/>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject:
Re: vg's for windscreen clearing
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
Hi Alex,
If it seems to be worth a few test flights to you.
You could try taping short lengths of wool yarn onto and around the the
areas in question (tufting). Then use double sided tape to attach some
number of vg's in various areas. After several test flights you might at
least be able to improve on the condition you have at present.
Has anyone else encountered this and tried some testing?
Keep us informed.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
>
> I have noticed patterns of "dead" air on the windscreen of my 6A. What I
> mean is that if flying in mist, there is minimal tendency for the
> airstream
> to blow beads of water from the center two feet or so of the windscreen.
> I
> have flown side by side with 8's which do not seem to have this problem.
> It
> doesn't matter if I use rain-ex (I've done tests with other products as
> well, covering the left half of the windscreen and looking for mist to fly
> in - no difference). The general problem seems to be a lack of high
> velocity air near the windscreen. I've even noticed when flying in light
> snow flurries that one can see individual snowflakes as they momentarily
> pause just ahead of the windscreen.
>
> The question is: Would placing a few vg's ahead of the windscreen help
> this?
> And, have others noticed this phenomenon?
>
> Thanks -
>
> Alex Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
From:
Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject:
Engine trouble @ Valkaria
Howdy listers,
Developed some engine trouble today coming back from Sun'n'Fun. #1 cylinder EGT
began to run a couple hundred degrees lower than normal and a kinda slapping
sound like an exhaust leak was audible. The EGT kept decreasing and finally stabilized
at around 950 or so. It had been running over 1400 before. Engine is
very rough.
The good folks at the X59 EAA hangar have kindly offered me the use of the hangar
and compression tester for tomorrow. I'm going to be there pretty early to
uncowl and such. If there's any engine gurus in the neighborhood, I'd be much
obliged if you'd offer some advice. We may be in the market for a cylinder shop
that can do a fairly quick turnaround somewhere near here, too.
My cell # is : 818 723-8272
As you can see by my San Fernando Valley, CA area code, I'm a long ways from home.
Thanks,
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
According to the local news here in the Bay Area he was taking off from
Hayward and lost power. The pilot successfully put it down in a parking lot with,
according to the news reporter, minor injuries. The airplane looks pretty
badly bent. An N-number search indicates the airplane is registered to Richard
Crowe from Oxnard, anyone know him. Apparently he was not the builder. Thats
all I know.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 61 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: [Fwd: [VAF Mailing List] RV-6A Down - not fatal]
Date:
Apr 12, 2005
> It also looks like he had newly installed fuel tanks, or they weren't
> installed when the plane was painted.
>
Yeah and elevators and rudder. Curious.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
From:
Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject:
Re: Engine trouble @ Valkaria
Update. Got the cowl off and found the exhaust pipe dangling. No nuts, no gasket.
Gone looking for parts. Looks like easy fix.
Ed Holyoke
Ed Holyoke wrote:
Howdy listers,
Developed some engine trouble today coming back from Sun'n'Fun. #1 cylinder EGT
began to run a couple hundred degrees lower than normal and a kinda slapping
sound like an exhaust leak was audible. The EGT kept decreasing and finally stabilized
at around 950 or so. It had been running over 1400 before. Engine is
very rough.
The good folks at the X59 EAA hangar have kindly offered me the use of the hangar
and compression tester for tomorrow. I'm going to be there pretty early to
uncowl and such. If there's any engine gurus in the neighborhood, I'd be much
obliged if you'd offer some advice. We may be in the market for a cylinder shop
that can do a fairly quick turnaround somewhere near here, too.
My cell # is : 818 723-8272
As you can see by my San Fernando Valley, CA area code, I'm a long ways from home.
Thanks,
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject:
Re: [Fwd: [VAF Mailing List] RV-6A Down - not fatal]
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
this plane used to be here in Colorado...and was sold a couple years ago...
I remember hearing that the buyer had to put it down in a field due to an
engine failure, hence the new tanks and tail... sad to hear this, I did
some flying in this plane before I flew mine for the first time...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: [Fwd: [VAF Mailing List] RV-6A Down - not fatal]
> It also looks like he had newly installed fuel tanks, or they weren't
> installed when the plane was painted.
>
Yeah and elevators and rudder. Curious.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
From:
Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject:
RV-6A Down - not fatal
Interesting. This was the first 6A that I looked at possibly buying.
I did create a simple website to help the owner sell it.
http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/N16TN/N16TN.htm
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject:
24 volt dry cell battery...
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
Anyone have a source for a 24v dry cell battery?
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
Subject:
Re: RV-6A Down - not fatal
If I remember correctly, I looked at this plane in Colorado Springs when it
was for sale a couple years ago, built by Tom Newell. Ron Lee, am I right?
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] RV-6A Down - not fatal
From: Jim Smith <jsmith(at)openairnet.com>
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2005/04/12/HAYWARD12.TMP
A pilot crash-landed a small airplane in a Hayward parking lot early today
after having engine problems shortly after taking off at the city's
airport, officials said.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
From:
James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject:
alodine alternative
Hi All,
For those of us in chromate unfriendly areas (california ;) are there
good alternatives to alodine? Specfically, I was wondering if anyone
had any experience with safegard CC 3400 from sanchem:
http://www.sanchem.com
their test specs look relatively impressive...
Thanks,
James
(preparing to order the -10)
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
Subject:
Re: RV6a for sale
In a message dated 4/10/2005 4:50:04 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
pj115(at)journey.com writes:
<< pjlein(at)journey.com >>
I cannot find the airplane on that net.
Thanks
Rollie
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
Subject:
Wing Jig for grabs
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
Hi Everyone,
If anyone is interested in a free standing floor jig for your
horizontal/vertical stab's or wings it's ready to be picked up. Best part
about it is, the wood is dry and it has produced 2 beautiful sets of wings.
ITS FREE! to who ever wants it 1st. Contact me off list at
"brucerv8(at)charter.net".
Bruce Gray
RV8 #81745
Fuselage Coming Soon!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject:
Engine problems.
From:
Donald Nowakowski <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com>
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
04/13/2005 16:28:36,
Serialize complete at 04/13/2005 16:28:36
Folks, Any help would be appreciated. Having said that, Ed Holyoke's
situation is much more dire than mine so help him first (he is traveling,
I am at my home airport).
Plane specifics: RV-6, 0-320-B2C, Fixed pitch Sensenich, Jeff Rose
ignition on the right firing Autolite 386 Auto plugs in the bottom of each
cylinder, Slick Mag on the left firing the top aircraft plugs, New carb at
overhaul, 240hours SMOH.
I was flying the other day for about 1/2 hour when out of the blue the
engine started running extremely rough. Mag check and fuel switch yielded
the same result. All cylinder temps were in the norm except for #4 which
went very hot (512 degrees on the CHT). All other cylinders were a little
warmer than normal but not much...I think the hottest was 320 degrees. I
wish I had the presence of mind to also notice the EGT's but I
didn't....focus was on #4 CHT and getting my butt on the ground.
At full throttle the plane would only muster 120 MPH. As soon as I had the
airport made and pulled power for landing, everything smoothed out. It was
instantaneous with pulling power. After landing and taxi back to the ramp
I did a run up and had full RPM with not even a hint of a miss.
The next day I did a compression check. All cylinder OK except for #4...
80/65. At annual just about a month ago this cylinder was my lowest but
was at 80/70. I was concerned then but my IA friend told me that I
shouldn't worry too much about it but to keep an eye on it. Other three
cylinders 80/78, 80/79, 80/78.
I am totally baffled. I suspected an air leak but found none. I was
worried about detonation but the top of the piston looks great...no
pitting. The cylinder walls look good also. The compression test revealed
that the leak seems to be mostly from the intake but the exhaust is
leaking also.
How do I troubleshoot? I am tempted to fly the plane again (close to the
airport) but I am spooked. I would love to know what happened and have a
fix before heading into the sky. Thanks in advance for any/all
ideas.....don
Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
Telephone (802)288-3359,
"More than anything else the sensation
is one of perfect peace mingled with
an excitement that strains every nerve
to the utmost, if you can conceive of such
a combination."
-- Wilbur
Wright
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
From:
<tomatwork(at)netscape.com>
After dimpling my tank skins with a standard (Avery) dimple die set I
learned of the tank die set sold by Cleaveland Aircraft. My question
is this: will re-dimpling my tank skins with the tank die set reduce the
strength of the rivetted joint?
Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/emreg
Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com>
Subject:
Engine problems.
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
All I can say is do not give into your temptation to "test fly" this
airplane again until you are confident you have discovered the nature of th
problem. Next time you may not be so lucky especially if you develop
troubles on the climb out.
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
From: Donald Nowakowski <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine problems.
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 15:11:00 -0400 04/13/2005 16:28:36, Serialize
complete at 04/13/2005 16:28:36
Folks, Any help would be appreciated. Having said that, Ed Holyoke's
situation is much more dire than mine so help him first (he is traveling,
I am at my home airport).
Plane specifics: RV-6, 0-320-B2C, Fixed pitch Sensenich, Jeff Rose
ignition on the right firing Autolite 386 Auto plugs in the bottom of each
cylinder, Slick Mag on the left firing the top aircraft plugs, New carb at
overhaul, 240hours SMOH.
I was flying the other day for about 1/2 hour when out of the blue the
engine started running extremely rough. Mag check and fuel switch yielded
the same result. All cylinder temps were in the norm except for #4 which
went very hot (512 degrees on the CHT). All other cylinders were a little
warmer than normal but not much...I think the hottest was 320 degrees. I
wish I had the presence of mind to also notice the EGT's but I
didn't....focus was on #4 CHT and getting my butt on the ground.
At full throttle the plane would only muster 120 MPH. As soon as I had the
airport made and pulled power for landing, everything smoothed out. It was
instantaneous with pulling power. After landing and taxi back to the ramp
I did a run up and had full RPM with not even a hint of a miss.
The next day I did a compression check. All cylinder OK except for #4...
80/65. At annual just about a month ago this cylinder was my lowest but
was at 80/70. I was concerned then but my IA friend told me that I
shouldn't worry too much about it but to keep an eye on it. Other three
cylinders 80/78, 80/79, 80/78.
I am totally baffled. I suspected an air leak but found none. I was
worried about detonation but the top of the piston looks great...no
pitting. The cylinder walls look good also. The compression test revealed
that the leak seems to be mostly from the intake but the exhaust is
leaking also.
How do I troubleshoot? I am tempted to fly the plane again (close to the
airport) but I am spooked. I would love to know what happened and have a
fix before heading into the sky. Thanks in advance for any/all
ideas.....don
Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
Telephone (802)288-3359,
"More than anything else the sensation
is one of perfect peace mingled with
an excitement that strains every nerve
to the utmost, if you can conceive of such
a combination."
-- Wilbur
Wright
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject:
Engine problems.
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
Lcoming Engines have a known valve sticking problem that can be casued by
any number of thinks. If the compression check shows that the leaking is
past the valves, first try staking the vavles first and see what/if that
does. If it doesn't do anything then you may need to get the valves
re-done.
Lycoming has several kep reprints that may help. Here is a short one about
valve sticking. There are some service instrction and service letter
numbers in there that may be of some assistance.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/keyReprints/operation/stickingValves.html
If it is valve sticking, a valve job usually does the trick........not
always, but usually.
Mike Robertson
>From: Donald Nowakowski <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Engine problems.
>Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 15:11:00 -0400 04/13/2005 16:28:36, Serialize
>complete at 04/13/2005 16:28:36
>
>
>Folks, Any help would be appreciated. Having said that, Ed Holyoke's
>situation is much more dire than mine so help him first (he is traveling,
>I am at my home airport).
>
>Plane specifics: RV-6, 0-320-B2C, Fixed pitch Sensenich, Jeff Rose
>ignition on the right firing Autolite 386 Auto plugs in the bottom of each
>cylinder, Slick Mag on the left firing the top aircraft plugs, New carb at
>overhaul, 240hours SMOH.
>
>I was flying the other day for about 1/2 hour when out of the blue the
>engine started running extremely rough. Mag check and fuel switch yielded
>the same result. All cylinder temps were in the norm except for #4 which
>went very hot (512 degrees on the CHT). All other cylinders were a little
>warmer than normal but not much...I think the hottest was 320 degrees. I
>wish I had the presence of mind to also notice the EGT's but I
>didn't....focus was on #4 CHT and getting my butt on the ground.
>
>At full throttle the plane would only muster 120 MPH. As soon as I had the
>airport made and pulled power for landing, everything smoothed out. It was
>instantaneous with pulling power. After landing and taxi back to the ramp
>I did a run up and had full RPM with not even a hint of a miss.
>
>The next day I did a compression check. All cylinder OK except for #4...
>80/65. At annual just about a month ago this cylinder was my lowest but
>was at 80/70. I was concerned then but my IA friend told me that I
>shouldn't worry too much about it but to keep an eye on it. Other three
>cylinders 80/78, 80/79, 80/78.
>
>I am totally baffled. I suspected an air leak but found none. I was
>worried about detonation but the top of the piston looks great...no
>pitting. The cylinder walls look good also. The compression test revealed
>that the leak seems to be mostly from the intake but the exhaust is
>leaking also.
>
>How do I troubleshoot? I am tempted to fly the plane again (close to the
>airport) but I am spooked. I would love to know what happened and have a
>fix before heading into the sky. Thanks in advance for any/all
>ideas.....don
>
>Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
>Telephone (802)288-3359,
>
>"More than anything else the sensation
>is one of perfect peace mingled with
>an excitement that strains every nerve
>to the utmost, if you can conceive of such
>a combination."
> -- Wilbur
>Wright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
From:
James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject:
alodine alternative
Hi All,
For those of us in chromate unfriendly areas (i.e. california ;) are
there good alternatives to alodine? Specfically, I was wondering if
anyone had any experience with safegard CC 3400 from sanchem:
http://www.sanchem.com
their test specs look relatively impressive...
Thanks,
James
(preparing to order the -10)
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject:
Engine problems-stuck exhaust valve?
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
Sounds very much like a stuck exhaust valve. Lycoming SB369 goes into great
detail about how to troubleshoot, inspect, repair.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
831-722-9141
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
From:
<tomatwork(at)netscape.com>
Subject:
tank dimple dies
Sorry if this was already posted...
After dimpling my tank skins with a standard (Avery) dimple die set I
learned of the tank die set sold by Cleaveland Aircraft. My question
is this: will re-dimpling my tank skins with the tank die set reduce the
strength of the rivetted joint?
Tom
Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/emreg
Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Mid-AtlRVwing(at)yahoogroups.com (MARV)
Subject:
New EFIS model for under $3K
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
For those looking for a hell of deal for the $, here's GRT's new offering. I guess
it's designed to go more head to head price wise with BMT, Dynon and if Dynon
decides to do it their larger EFIS.
Link to a .pdf brochure is at the bottom of the page.
http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
For those looking for a hell of deal for the $, here's GRT's new offering. I guess
it's designed to go more head to head price wisewith BMT, Dynon and if Dynon
decides to do it their larger EFIS.
Link to a .pdf brochure is at the bottom of the page.
http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
From:
"Ron Jagels" <rejnovca(at)verizon.net>
Subject:
Snorkle for AirFlow Performance FM-200
I have an IO-360-M1 with Airflow Performance fuel injection (FM-200 controller).
Using the smooth lower cowl and firewall forward kit from Vans which has a fiberglass
filtered air inlet plenum made for a Bendix fuel injector - hence flat
face mating surface with four bolt holes. Several questions:
1) Has anyone modified the Vans plenum to fit the FM-200 controller? I am aware
of several builders who have placed a wye on the FM inlet and used one branch
for the filtered air inlet and one branch as ram air inlet. This requires adding
a hole in the lower cowl and I'm looking for other solutions.
2) What method was used to attach inlet plenum to the FM-200 controller?
3) What attachment piece was used to transition between the fiberglass plenum and
the FM-200 inlet?
Photos and/or drawings for the above would be greatly appreciated.
Ron Jagels (RV-8A)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject:
tank dimple dies
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
From:
"Mark A. Sedlacek" <Mark(at)sedlaceks.com>
Tom, I'm sealing my tanks on my RV-8a now and had also heard of the tank dimple
die set. I asked Van's support if they were necessary and they said heck no.
There's been hundreds of tanks built (if not more) with the standard die set
and they are more than adequate. I decided to pass on them. Regarding the redimpling.
This was another question I asked Van's and their rule of thumb is
you can redo the dimple (reverse/enlarge) one time with out weaking the metal.
Your results may vary...
Regards,
Mark Sedlacek
RV-8a
Wings
San Jose, CA
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of tomatwork(at)netscape.com
Subject: RV-List: tank dimple dies
Sorry if this was already posted...
After dimpling my tank skins with a standard (Avery) dimple die set I
learned of the tank die set sold by Cleaveland Aircraft. My question
is this: will re-dimpling my tank skins with the tank die set reduce the
strength of the rivetted joint?
Tom
Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/emreg
Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
From:
Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Engine problems.
A significant, sudden CHT excursion like that has to
be a detonation event. You did the correct thing by
getting the plane back onto the ground ASAP.
Depending on the cause, going full rich, reducing
power, and getting on the ground quickly, can control
the detonation and temperature before serious dammage
occurs.
Try replacing BOTH plugs in the #4 cylinder with NEW
ones. If the ceramic on one of the plugs has cracked
or the bond has failed, then the plug won't dissipate
the combustion heat to the cylinder head and become a
hot spot. This is a fairly common problem.
Also, verify your ignition timing!
A leaky or sticking valve will not cause the CHT to
shoot up. A sticking exhaust valve will cause a rise
in EGT, and a drop in CHT.
Skylor
RV-8QB
Under Construction
--- Donald Nowakowski wrote:
>
>
> Folks, Any help would be appreciated. Having said
> that, Ed Holyoke's
> situation is much more dire than mine so help him
> first (he is traveling,
> I am at my home airport).
>
> Plane specifics: RV-6, 0-320-B2C, Fixed pitch
> Sensenich, Jeff Rose
> ignition on the right firing Autolite 386 Auto plugs
> in the bottom of each
> cylinder, Slick Mag on the left firing the top
> aircraft plugs, New carb at
> overhaul, 240hours SMOH.
>
> I was flying the other day for about 1/2 hour when
> out of the blue the
> engine started running extremely rough. Mag check
> and fuel switch yielded
> the same result. All cylinder temps were in the norm
> except for #4 which
> went very hot (512 degrees on the CHT). All other
> cylinders were a little
> warmer than normal but not much...I think the
> hottest was 320 degrees. I
> wish I had the presence of mind to also notice the
> EGT's but I
> didn't....focus was on #4 CHT and getting my butt on
> the ground.
>
> At full throttle the plane would only muster 120
> MPH. As soon as I had the
> airport made and pulled power for landing,
> everything smoothed out. It was
> instantaneous with pulling power. After landing and
> taxi back to the ramp
> I did a run up and had full RPM with not even a hint
> of a miss.
>
> The next day I did a compression check. All cylinder
> OK except for #4...
> 80/65. At annual just about a month ago this
> cylinder was my lowest but
> was at 80/70. I was concerned then but my IA friend
> told me that I
> shouldn't worry too much about it but to keep an eye
> on it. Other three
> cylinders 80/78, 80/79, 80/78.
>
> I am totally baffled. I suspected an air leak but
> found none. I was
> worried about detonation but the top of the piston
> looks great...no
> pitting. The cylinder walls look good also. The
> compression test revealed
> that the leak seems to be mostly from the intake but
> the exhaust is
> leaking also.
>
> How do I troubleshoot? I am tempted to fly the plane
> again (close to the
> airport) but I am spooked. I would love to know what
> happened and have a
> fix before heading into the sky. Thanks in advance
> for any/all
> ideas.....don
>
> Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
> Telephone (802)288-3359,
>
> "More than anything else the sensation
> is one of perfect peace mingled with
> an excitement that strains every nerve
> to the utmost, if you can conceive of such
> a combination."
>
> -- Wilbur
> Wright
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Victor W. Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net>
Subject:
Engine problems.
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
Someone posted a statement similar to yours. He was told by an "old"
A&P that at about 300 hours or so the Lycoming will "stick a valve "
then it will unstuck and everything will be OK after that.
How many hours on your engine?
Vic
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine problems.
Lcoming Engines have a known valve sticking problem that can be casued
by
any number of thinks. If the compression check shows that the leaking
is
past the valves, first try staking the vavles first and see what/if that
does. If it doesn't do anything then you may need to get the valves
re-done.
Lycoming has several kep reprints that may help. Here is a short one
about
valve sticking. There are some service instrction and service letter
numbers in there that may be of some assistance.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/k
eyReprints/operation/stickingValves.html
If it is valve sticking, a valve job usually does the trick........not
always, but usually.
Mike Robertson
>From: Donald Nowakowski <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Engine problems.
>Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 15:11:00 -0400 04/13/2005 16:28:36,
Serialize
>complete at 04/13/2005 16:28:36
>
>
>Folks, Any help would be appreciated. Having said that, Ed Holyoke's
>situation is much more dire than mine so help him first (he is
traveling,
>I am at my home airport).
>
>Plane specifics: RV-6, 0-320-B2C, Fixed pitch Sensenich, Jeff Rose
>ignition on the right firing Autolite 386 Auto plugs in the bottom of
each
>cylinder, Slick Mag on the left firing the top aircraft plugs, New carb
at
>overhaul, 240hours SMOH.
>
>I was flying the other day for about 1/2 hour when out of the blue the
>engine started running extremely rough. Mag check and fuel switch
yielded
>the same result. All cylinder temps were in the norm except for #4
which
>went very hot (512 degrees on the CHT). All other cylinders were a
little
>warmer than normal but not much...I think the hottest was 320 degrees.
I
>wish I had the presence of mind to also notice the EGT's but I
>didn't....focus was on #4 CHT and getting my butt on the ground.
>
>At full throttle the plane would only muster 120 MPH. As soon as I had
the
>airport made and pulled power for landing, everything smoothed out. It
was
>instantaneous with pulling power. After landing and taxi back to the
ramp
>I did a run up and had full RPM with not even a hint of a miss.
>
>The next day I did a compression check. All cylinder OK except for
#4...
>80/65. At annual just about a month ago this cylinder was my lowest but
>was at 80/70. I was concerned then but my IA friend told me that I
>shouldn't worry too much about it but to keep an eye on it. Other three
>cylinders 80/78, 80/79, 80/78.
>
>I am totally baffled. I suspected an air leak but found none. I was
>worried about detonation but the top of the piston looks great...no
>pitting. The cylinder walls look good also. The compression test
revealed
>that the leak seems to be mostly from the intake but the exhaust is
>leaking also.
>
>How do I troubleshoot? I am tempted to fly the plane again (close to
the
>airport) but I am spooked. I would love to know what happened and have
a
>fix before heading into the sky. Thanks in advance for any/all
>ideas.....don
>
>Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
>Telephone (802)288-3359,
>
>"More than anything else the sensation
>is one of perfect peace mingled with
>an excitement that strains every nerve
>to the utmost, if you can conceive of such
>a combination."
> -- Wilbur
>Wright
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
From:
Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Re: tank dimple dies
You don't 'need' them, but I used the standard dies on the tanks &
regret it. Of course, what I really regret is not building the tanks
like Boeing: rivet ribs to skin dry then proseal the shop heads & seams.
Charlie
Mark A. Sedlacek wrote:
>
>Tom, I'm sealing my tanks on my RV-8a now and had also heard of the tank dimple
die set. I asked Van's support if they were necessary and they said heck no.
There's been hundreds of tanks built (if not more) with the standard die set
and they are more than adequate. I decided to pass on them. Regarding the
redimpling. This was another question I asked Van's and their rule of thumb is
you can redo the dimple (reverse/enlarge) one time with out weaking the metal.
Your results may vary...
>
>Regards,
>
>Mark Sedlacek
>RV-8a
>Wings
>San Jose, CA
>
>________________________________
>
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of tomatwork(at)netscape.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: tank dimple dies
>
>
>Sorry if this was already posted...
>
>
>After dimpling my tank skins with a standard (Avery) dimple die set I
>learned of the tank die set sold by Cleaveland Aircraft. My question
>is this: will re-dimpling my tank skins with the tank die set reduce the
>strength of the rivetted joint?
>
>
>Tom
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
From:
Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re:
No, it will not. However, why bother. It has been found that the tank dies
are best used only on the under lying structure (ribs and rear baffle).
Charlie Kuss
>
>
> After dimpling my tank skins with a standard (Avery) dimple die set I
> learned of the tank die set sold by Cleaveland Aircraft. My question
>is this: will re-dimpling my tank skins with the tank die set reduce the
>strength of the rivetted joint?
>
>
>Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
>As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/emreg
>
>Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
From:
Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: vg's for windscreen clearing
At 09:46 PM 4/12/2005, you wrote:
>
>I have noticed patterns of "dead" air on the windscreen of my 6A. What I
>mean is that if flying in mist, there is minimal tendency for the airstream
>to blow beads of water from the center two feet or so of the windscreen. I
>have flown side by side with 8's which do not seem to have this problem. It
>doesn't matter if I use rain-ex (I've done tests with other products as
>well, covering the left half of the windscreen and looking for mist to fly
>in - no difference). The general problem seems to be a lack of high
>velocity air near the windscreen. I've even noticed when flying in light
>snow flurries that one can see individual snowflakes as they momentarily
>pause just ahead of the windscreen.
>
>The question is: Would placing a few vg's ahead of the windscreen help this?
>And, have others noticed this phenomenon?
The builder of my RV-4, Pete Fountain, placed the the cockpit cooling
airscoop (NACA airscoop) on the lower half of the left side of the engine
cowling. The result was terrible. This was in an area of dead airflow, and
almost no airflow could be detected. I suggested to him that he place two
VG's ahead of the scoop, as I had heard of all sorts of "miracle cures"
from using VG's. Within two hours, Pete fashioned two small aluminum VG's,
double face taped them on ( positioned purely by guesswork), and went
flying. I got a call two hours and 10 minutes after I first suggested the
VG's to Pete. He couldn't get over it, "They worked beautifully!" They were
removed, painted, and replaced with a better quality of double face tape.
They are still there after 470 hours.
You can go wrong try the same thing. I would guess that you might want to
try several positions. Good luck.
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
From:
Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject:
Re: Engine problems.
Donald Nowakowski wrote:
Folks, Any help would be appreciated. Having said that, Ed Holyoke's
situation is much more dire than mine so help him first (he is traveling,
I am at my home airport).
My problem's all solved, thank goodness. A new blow proof exhaust gasket did the
trick and I'm back in business. I owe the local chapter big time for lending
the hangar. I hope Donald can get his problem solved quickly, too.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 14, 2005
From:
Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject:
Re: New EFIS model for under $3K
> Overall, for the price, it's a great alternative. Competition is a wonderful
thing!
Agreed. What would also be nice is a comparison table
with this device and the two major competitors, the
BMA EFIS/Lite and the Dynon D10A.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject:
Re:
Date:
Apr 13, 2005
I would be careful if you decide to do it. Here is the concern I have with
this. Once you dimple, you have very slightly enlarged the original hole
size. Now when redimpling, you are putting the already slightly larger hole
again on the dimple die, you have a good chance of having a slight
misalignment rather than the die being dead center as it was the first time.
It will not be much off, but it will be there. I'd say the resulting dimple
will not be perfect. I would do the other tank with the Cleveland dies
leaving what was done done; and after you get the plane painted, see if you
can tell a difference. My experience: I built my wings and used Avery
dies. My friend has the Cleveland tank dies. His might look better than
mine but it is not overwhelmingly different.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up -- Ready for first flight just about any time it
is right.........
>
>
> After dimpling my tank skins with a standard (Avery) dimple die set I
> learned of the tank die set sold by Cleaveland Aircraft. My question
> is this: will re-dimpling my tank skins with the tank die set reduce the
> strength of the rivetted joint?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com>
Subject:
Engine problems
Date:
Apr 14, 2005
Don,
I've had the same problems. GET RID OF THE 386 PLUGS..... If you look at
the #4 cylinder
plugs, you will see that the ceramic has been damaged, actually melted! And
with them glowing
you have pre-ignition problems, causing back-firing into the intake
manifold, causing ALL
cylinders to misfire. (BTW, immediately pulling the mixture, counting to
three, pushing it back
in, will "put out" the glow plug effect, and save your cylinder...).
Put in aviation plugs, preferably REM 37BY (or is it REM 38 BY) in all
cylinders. It means a
new harness, or at least new terminations, but it will solve the problem.
My carbureted O-320 with 9:1 pistons had the exact same problems. I
initially thought that it was the
ignitions systems. But close examination of the plugs (even new ones)
revealed the
pre-ignition problem. I tried everything - full mixture, aux pump ON, full
throttle (even pumped the
throttle), mag check - all the standard emergency procedures, nothing seemed
to work. I finally
started pulling the mixture to cut-off immediately when I started getting
the rough engine. Wait
3 seconds, then pushed it in, and vola! the problem went away!
Fred stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 375 Hrs
Time:
Subject: Engine problems.
From: Donald Nowakowski < nowakod(at)us.ibm.com <mailto:nowakod(at)us.ibm.com> >
04/13/2005 16:28:36,
Serialize complete at 04/13/2005 16:28:36
>
Folks, Any help would be appreciated. Having said that, Ed Holyoke's
situation is much more dire than mine so help him first (he is
traveling,
I am at my home airport).
Plane specifics: RV-6, 0-320-B2C, Fixed pitch Sensenich, Jeff Rose
ignition on the right firing Autolite 386 Auto plugs in the bottom of
each
cylinder, Slick Mag on the left firing the top aircraft plugs, New
carb at
overhaul, 240hours SMOH.
I was flying the other day for about 1/2 hour when out of the blue the
engine started running extremely rough. Mag check and fuel switch
yielded
the same result. All cylinder temps were in the norm except for #4
which
went very hot (512 degrees on the CHT). All other cylinders were a
little
warmer than normal but not much...I think the hottest was 320 degrees.
I
wish I had the presence of mind to also notice the EGT's but I
didn't....focus was on #4 CHT and getting my butt on the ground.
At full throttle the plane would only muster 120 MPH. As soon as I had
the
airport made and pulled power for landing, everything smoothed out. It
was
instantaneous with pulling power. After landing and taxi back to the
ramp
I did a run up and had full RPM with not even a hint of a miss.
The next day I did a compression check. All cylinder OK except for
#4...
80/65. At annual just about a month ago this cylinder was my lowest
but
was at 80/70. I was concerned then but my IA friend told me that I
shouldn't worry too much about it but to keep an eye on it. Other
three
cylinders 80/78, 80/79, 80/78.
I am totally baffled. I suspected an air leak but found none. I was
worried about detonation but the top of the piston looks great...no
pitting. The cylinder walls look good also. The compression test
revealed
that the leak seems to be mostly from the intake but the exhaust is
leaking also.
How do I troubleshoot? I am tempted to fly the plane again (close to
the
airport) but I am spooked. I would love to know what happened and have
a
fix before heading into the sky. Thanks in advance for any/all
ideas.....don
Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
Telephone (802)288-3359,
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 14, 2005
From:
Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Engine problems
> I've had the same problems. GET RID OF THE 386 PLUGS..... If you look at
I agree 100%. Those plugs are no good in a Lycoming. Its too cold of
a plug. I use the plugs Klaus recommends with my Electroair; they are
the Denso W27ESR-U with adapters. There is an equivalent NGK that I
now use (I forget the number) that are a cross-reference plug to the
Denso's. I used to change them at every oil change, but found that
was unnecessary. I change them now during annual.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying 600+ hours, F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject:
Re: Engine problems
Date:
Apr 14, 2005
> I agree 100%. Those plugs are no good in a Lycoming. Its too cold of
> a plug. I use the plugs Klaus recommends with my Electroair; they are
> the Denso W27ESR-U with adapters. There is an equivalent NGK that I
> now use (I forget the number) that are a cross-reference plug to the
> Denso's. I used to change them at every oil change, but found that
> was unnecessary. I change them now during annual.
I believe BR9ES is the NGK equivalent to the Denso W27EMR-C, not sure about
the W27ESR-U. Double check me on that. Klaus sells the W27EMR-C and
W24EMR-C plugs last time I looked.
I use NGK BR8ES (5422) plugs with my Lightspeed Plasma II on my RV-7,
IO-360-A1B6, 8.7:1. I have had great performance and no problems with the
BR8ES plugs. They're available at just about any auto parts store. I found
the cheapest source to be Pep Boys at $1.79 each.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 14, 2005
From:
Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject:
Re: Snorkle for AirFlow Performance FM-200
On 04/13 3:42, Ron Jagels wrote:
>
> I have an IO-360-M1 with Airflow Performance fuel injection (FM-200 controller).
Using the smooth lower cowl and firewall forward kit from Vans which has
a fiberglass filtered air inlet plenum made for a Bendix fuel injector - hence
flat face mating surface with four bolt holes. Several questions:
>
> 1) Has anyone modified the Vans plenum to fit the FM-200 controller? I am aware
of several builders who have placed a wye on the FM inlet and used one branch
for the filtered air inlet and one branch as ram air inlet. This requires
adding a hole in the lower cowl and I'm looking for other solutions.
>
> 2) What method was used to attach inlet plenum to the FM-200 controller?
>
> 3) What attachment piece was used to transition between the fiberglass plenum
and the FM-200 inlet?
>
> Photos and/or drawings for the above would be greatly appreciated.
I used some silicone tank baffle material and clamped it on.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
WFACT01(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 14, 2005
Subject:
CLEVELAND WHEELS/BRAKES -- 600X6 ON INCH AND 1/4 AXLES
CHECK OUT EBAY ITEM # 4543359529. NEW 600X6 LOW PROFILE TIRES WHEELS/BRAKES,
SPACERS AND BUSHINGS FOR RV-8 -- TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01(at)aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (40 PLUS HOURS)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 14, 2005
From:
Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Engine problems
On 4/14/05, Dan Checkoway wrote:
> I use NGK BR8ES (5422) plugs with my Lightspeed Plasma II on my RV-7,
> IO-360-A1B6, 8.7:1. I have had great performance and no problems with the
> BR8ES plugs. They're available at just about any auto parts store. I found
> the cheapest source to be Pep Boys at $1.79 each.
Yes that sounds like the correct part number.
Regards,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 14, 2005
From:
Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject:
Re: CLEVELAND WHEELS/BRAKES -- 600X6 ON INCH AND 1/4 AXLES
Hi,
Is this a fairly common upgrade to the RV8? Where I fly we
have a lot of grass strips, but I've never had any trouble
with the Warrior I currently fly. Will the standard wheel
pants fit with these bigger wheels and tires?
Thanks,
Mickey
> CHECK OUT EBAY ITEM # 4543359529. NEW 600X6 LOW PROFILE TIRES WHEELS/BRAKES,
> SPACERS AND BUSHINGS FOR RV-8 -- TOM
>
> Tom Whelan
> Whelan Farms Airport
> President EAA Chapter 1097
> wfact01(at)aol.com
> 249 Hard Hill Road North
> PO Box 426
> Bethlehem, CT 06751
> Tel: 203-266-5300
> Fax: 202-266-5140
> EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
> RV-8 540 LYC (40 PLUS HOURS)
> S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
WFACT01(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 14, 2005
Subject:
Re: CLEVELAND WHEELS/BRAKES -- 600X6 ON INCH AND 1/4 AXLES
MICKY-I HAD A MODED STOCK PAIR THAT WORKED-TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01(at)aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (40 PLUS HOURS)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 14, 2005
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
In a message dated 4/12/2005 1:43:46 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
jorear(at)new.rr.com writes:
This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who are flying their
creations.
If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the airport,
would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A version prior to
getting everything completed? Those of you that are flying the 6/6A, do you
ever wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to fishtail that
apparent with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
===============================
No way! It's fine just the way it is.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 738hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Kx 125 repair guy needed
Date:
Apr 14, 2005
My radio nav side has had a problem for a while, when I turn up the vol on nav
to listen for Vor ID I get white noise which overrides comm side as well. I spoke
to a radio guy about another problem, think his name is George something..
believe he is in Seven Lakes airpark. would like to get ahold of him, but lost
all contact info. Anybody know him & how to get ahold of him? Any other recomendations
for raidio repair guy in Atl area? charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
During the past 7.5 years of flying my RV, there was only one time that I
wish I had a larger rudder. The wind was 080 degrees to the runway and
gusts were 38 knots.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,654 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
In a message dated 4/12/2005 1:43:46 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
jorear(at)new.rr.com writes:
This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who are flying their
creations.
If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the
airport,
would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A version prior to
getting everything completed? Those of you that are flying the 6/6A, do
you
ever wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to fishtail that
apparent with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Kx 125 repair guy needed
Date:
Apr 14, 2005
Call Honeywell @ 1-913-782-0400, ask receptionist for ext 1082 and tell
the person that answers that you need to speak with someone for
technical assistance on a KX125. Let us know about your experience with
Honeywell.
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Heathco
Subject: RV-List: Kx 125 repair guy needed
My radio nav side has had a problem for a while, when I turn up the vol
on nav to listen for Vor ID I get white noise which overrides comm side
as well. I spoke to a radio guy about another problem, think his name is
George something.. believe he is in Seven Lakes airpark. would like to
get ahold of him, but lost all contact info. Anybody know him & how to
get ahold of him? Any other recomendations for raidio repair guy in Atl
area? charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
My 6a has no fishtail tendencys, in fact I can kick the rudder, and it will return
to stable flight in about 2 or 3 osilations. If you want to do acro, I think
the taller tail would be a hinderance, charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
Man! I thought I was pushing it with 80d gusts to 30K. You a hell of a pilot Gary!
charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
From:
Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Charles Heathco wrote:
>
>My 6a has no fishtail tendencys, in fact I can kick the rudder, and it will return
to stable flight in about 2 or 3 osilations. If you want to do acro, I think
the taller tail would be a hinderance, charlie heathco
>
>
Base on what? From experience it is not a hindrance at all. Also I don't
believe your 6A has no fishtail tendencies because they all do it
so why should yours be any different? It is a characteristic of the
design in turbulence. Anyone that says it is not
an improvement has not flown both stab. and rudders on a -6 as I have.
Jerry
.
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject:
Should I or shouldn't I
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
> In a message dated 4/12/2005 1:43:46 A.M. Pacific Daylight
> Time, jorear(at)new.rr.com writes:
>
> This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who
> are flying their creations.
>
> If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the
> airport,
> would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A
> version prior to getting everything completed? Those of you
> that are flying the 6/6A, do
> you
> ever wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to
> fishtail that apparent with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
I have consistently noticed with my 6A, when landing in crosswinds, that the
amount of rudder needed diminishes significantly during the last couple feet
of altitude prior to touchdown. Apparently, the low profile of these planes
allows much of the plane, wings particularly, to be in much lower velocity
air close to the ground. This was not the case with spam cans that I had
previously flown. I've landed in direct crosswinds up to 22g28 winds as
reported by AWOS. At 10 feet, I might have had 3/4 rudder applied, but at
touchdown, maybe 1/2. The only complaint I have about the rudder in my 6A
is that the pedal forces are quite high - maybe the "counterweighted" 7
rudder is better in this regard, I don't know.
As to yaw in the air, that seems to be a stronger function of CG than VS.
Additionally, I have noticed that when the autopilot is flying, it corrects
a turbulence induced wing drop fast enough where adverse yaw is almost
eliminated. When hand flying, this is not the case. It could also be that
yaw stability is affected by taildragger/trike differences, as the wheel and
gear fairings have significant areas.
I have not flown much in a 7A, so I don't have direct comparison. However,
if I were building another 6 kit, I would not bother with modifying the VS.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 609 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject:
Engine Problems
From:
Donald Nowakowski <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com>
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
11, 2005) at 04/15/2005 10:05:20,
Serialize complete at 04/15/2005 10:05:20
Folks, I can't thank you enough for all of your ideas. The folks who have
had the same problem as me with the same ignition system/spark plug
combination have steered me in the right direction. I took out the
Autolite 386 spark plug in #4 and the ceramic was in bad shape. I have
ordered the REM37BY's and the new wiring harness from Electroair. I think
I had a glowing plug as Fred S. described. Hopefully this is the fix. If
not, I'll be back here asking for more ideas. Thanks again to all. This
list is a great resource.....don
Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
Telephone (802)288-3359,
"More than anything else the sensation
is one of perfect peace mingled with
an excitement that strains every nerve
to the utmost, if you can conceive of such
a combination."
-- Wilbur
Wright
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
I have a couple thousand landings on my 6A, and love to go out and
practice crosswinds frequently. My experience is exactly as Alex, and
would recommend the same.
Walsh
On Apr 15, 2005, at 7:00 AM, Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
>
>> In a message dated 4/12/2005 1:43:46 A.M. Pacific Daylight
>> Time, jorear(at)new.rr.com writes:
>>
>> This question is directed more toward my 6/6A brethren who
>> are flying their creations.
>>
>> If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the
>> airport,
>> would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A
>> version prior to getting everything completed? Those of you
>> that are flying the 6/6A, do
>> you
>> ever wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to
>> fishtail that apparent with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
>
> I have consistently noticed with my 6A, when landing in crosswinds,
> that the
> amount of rudder needed diminishes significantly during the last
> couple feet
> of altitude prior to touchdown. Apparently, the low profile of these
> planes
> allows much of the plane, wings particularly, to be in much lower
> velocity
> air close to the ground. This was not the case with spam cans that I
> had
> previously flown. I've landed in direct crosswinds up to 22g28 winds
> as
> reported by AWOS. At 10 feet, I might have had 3/4 rudder applied,
> but at
> touchdown, maybe 1/2. The only complaint I have about the rudder in
> my 6A
> is that the pedal forces are quite high - maybe the "counterweighted" 7
> rudder is better in this regard, I don't know.
>
> As to yaw in the air, that seems to be a stronger function of CG than
> VS.
> Additionally, I have noticed that when the autopilot is flying, it
> corrects
> a turbulence induced wing drop fast enough where adverse yaw is almost
> eliminated. When hand flying, this is not the case. It could also be
> that
> yaw stability is affected by taildragger/trike differences, as the
> wheel and
> gear fairings have significant areas.
>
> I have not flown much in a 7A, so I don't have direct comparison.
> However,
> if I were building another 6 kit, I would not bother with modifying
> the VS.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 609 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
Subject:
Static System Connections
From:
Jack <jgh2(at)charter.net>
Is there an easy way to insert the recommended 3/16" plastic tube
fittings into the 1/4" OD plastic static lines. Hot water helps but
its still very difficult to get the tubing on all the way.
Jack H.
6A - finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
Subject:
Pitot tube & mount
From:
sjhdcl(at)kingston.net
I have a heated pitot tube from aircraft spruce:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/homepitot.php
I also have the mount the aircraft spruce sells:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/gretzbrackets.php
I have found that the mount and the pitot tube are not compatible even
though it describes it on webpage and in the catalog as being the correct
mount to order.
For guys using this heated pitot tube, which mount did you use?
ACS solution is to return the items. Anybody have an actual solution?
Steve
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject:
GPS phone
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
My 4 year old daughter just threw my cell phone in the fish pond so I'm shopping
for a new one. My question is do any of you guys have a cell phone with built
in GPS and if so is it useful in the airplane? I know that a lot of phones have
GPS chips for locating you in emergency, but I want one that will give coordinates.
A quick search on the web showed something similar on Nextel but I have
a regular Verizon phone. Just curious...
Thanks in advance
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
A friend sent the following to Garmin
Inquiry:
> I am considering the iQue 3600a to put in my homebuilt and was wondering
> if
> the unit has the ability to drive my autopilot through some sort of
> link?Or to
> put it another way is there provisions for a signal out?
Garmin's answer indicated that the iQue 3600a is the one portable GPS that
does not output the NMEA 0183 sentences needed by some devices to drive an
autopilot.
The response also indicated that a work around has been found by "some
people".
If this is in fact true? can "some of you" describe the fixes and how you
feel about the efficacy of the outcome?
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
From:
John Lawson <rv6builder48138(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Tips for riveting LE ribs #13 and 14 to wing spar?
I am having the devil's own time trying to figure out
how to pound the AN470-4 rivets that attach leading
edge ribs #13 and 14 (the two outermost) to the wing
main spar. There's little room to get the rivet gun
into the leading edge space and it's awkward as hell
trying to hold the rivet gun while also holding the
bucking bar. I even tried installing the rivets with
the manufactured head facing aft, instead of forward,
and botched them. Any suggestions as to how I can do
them on my own, or are these such that I really need
another set of hands? And...I've drilled out and
replaced (and botched again) at least two rivets to
the point where the holes are probably too large for
AN470-4 rivets...sigh. And it occurred to me...are
there any pop rivets that would work as substitutes?
This is what I get for having to lay off building for
almost three years. Ugh.
Semper Fi
John (RV-6 - left wing - destroying the world's supply
of AN470-4 rivets one at a time)
__________________________________
http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
From:
Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject:
Re: GPS phone
Current location 97.467 degrees west, 34.05 degrees north. Now go to
Meadow lake airport.
probably can't. Get an aviation GPS unit or Etrex driving a PDA or similar of
you want to use GPS for navigation.
Ron Lee
At 01:47 PM 4/15/2005, you wrote:
>
>My 4 year old daughter just threw my cell phone in the fish pond so I'm
>shopping for a new one. My question is do any of you guys have a cell
>phone with built in GPS and if so is it useful in the airplane? I know
>that a lot of phones have GPS chips for locating you in emergency, but I
>want one that will give coordinates. A quick search on the web showed
>something similar on Nextel but I have a regular Verizon phone. Just curious...
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
<groves(at)epix.net>
Subject:
Re: Tips for riveting LE ribs #13 and 14 to wing spar?
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
Hi John,
You can you LP4-3 pop rivets.
Best of luck
Kirk RV-8 starting QB fuse
>
> From: John Lawson <rv6builder48138(at)yahoo.com>
> Date: 2005/04/15 Fri PM 09:16:47 EDT
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tips for riveting LE ribs #13 and 14 to wing spar?
>
>
> I am having the devil's own time trying to figure out
> how to pound the AN470-4 rivets that attach leading
> edge ribs #13 and 14 (the two outermost) to the wing
> main spar. There's little room to get the rivet gun
> into the leading edge space and it's awkward as hell
> trying to hold the rivet gun while also holding the
> bucking bar. I even tried installing the rivets with
> the manufactured head facing aft, instead of forward,
> and botched them. Any suggestions as to how I can do
> them on my own, or are these such that I really need
> another set of hands? And...I've drilled out and
> replaced (and botched again) at least two rivets to
> the point where the holes are probably too large for
> AN470-4 rivets...sigh. And it occurred to me...are
> there any pop rivets that would work as substitutes?
>
> This is what I get for having to lay off building for
> almost three years. Ugh.
>
> Semper Fi
> John (RV-6 - left wing - destroying the world's supply
> of AN470-4 rivets one at a time)
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Engine problems.
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
Engine Lyc O-320-A1A 150hp, Bendix mags.
Symptoms: Started running rough on right mag, EGT's normal except #1 was
elevated approx 200 degs. in cruise, CHT about 20 deg. lower than normal.
Solution: Found #1L plug was shorted with small balls of material stuck-one
in each gap. When tested, at first plug did not fire but soon started firing
even though mater was still in gap. After cleaning, engine runs normally,
both EGT and CHT as before.
After reading all the posts recently about engine problems I don't
understand why the EGT was elevated with plug fouled. I would have thought
the unburned fuel would have cooled the exhaust and lowered EGT.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
Subject:
Re: Engine problems.
It is because the fuel burns as it goes into the exhaust pipe where the EGT
probe is.
Rob Hickman
N401RH RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: RVs in Kamloops / Kelowna??
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
I'm down from Yellowknife for the weekend and will be in and around Kamloops
and Kelowna area this weekend. As I haven't purchased my kit yet I'd love
to get a glimps of one under construction or see a flying one. A ride would
be great too and I'd be more than willing cover the cost of gas etc.
If you have a RV in the construction phase and or flying stage and have
sometime to spare this weekend post an note on when and where would be best
to contact you.
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject:
Re: Static System Connections
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
This Van's "method" has to be the most ignorant thing about the entire kit -
totally unacceptable to do it their way. I went to a local "fittings" shop
(brass & plastic) and bought standard, cheap Ts with the screw on caps that
you just stick the tubing into and then tighten the caps. Totally
professional, totally secure, totally better than forcing the one size
tubing onto the smaller (but not small enough) tubing and then having the
ends split by a week later. They claim "they never heard of that one
before". Yeah, sure, I'm the ONLY ONE who had the tubing split.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack" <jgh2(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-List: Static System Connections
>
> Is there an easy way to insert the recommended 3/16" plastic tube
> fittings into the 1/4" OD plastic static lines. Hot water helps but
> its still very difficult to get the tubing on all the way.
>
> Jack H.
> 6A - finishing kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Michael D Crowe" <rv8a(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject:
RE: [AtlRVers] Kx 125 repair guy needed
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
Charlie,
You are looking for George Mock I believe his company name is Atlanta
Avionics. 770-504-0011
Mike Crowe
_____
From: AtlRVers(at)yahoogroups.com [mailto:AtlRVers(at)yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Charles Heathco
Subject: [AtlRVers] Kx 125 repair guy needed
My radio nav side has had a problem for a while, when I turn up the vol on
nav to listen for Vor ID I get white noise which overrides comm side as
well. I spoke to a radio guy about another problem, think his name is George
something.. believe he is in Seven Lakes airpark. would like to get ahold of
him, but lost all contact info. Anybody know him & how to get ahold of him?
Any other recomendations for raidio repair guy in Atl area? charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
From:
Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Re: GPS phone
A while ago I asked if anyone had tried the Garmin NavTalk Pilot but
there were no responses. I think it was discontinued but there might be
a replacement model.
Roger Embree
C-GIRH
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
>My 4 year old daughter just threw my cell phone in the fish pond so I'm shopping
for a new one. My question is do any of you guys have a cell phone with built
in GPS and if so is it useful in the airplane? I know that a lot of phones
have GPS chips for locating you in emergency, but I want one that will give coordinates.
A quick search on the web showed something similar on Nextel but I
have a regular Verizon phone. Just curious...
>Thanks in advance
>Evan Johnson
>www.evansaviationproducts.com
>(530)247-0375
>(530)351-1776 cell
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject:
Re: Tips for riveting LE ribs #13 and 14 to wing spar?
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
The key to bucking rivets by yourself is to clamp the piece down to a table
or something to hold it steady. Better to have a helper but if doing it
yourself, it must be held somehow. If you can get the bucking bar on it and
somehow manage it so it does not vibrate off the rivet, you can do a very
good job of buck riveting by yourself. You can use pop rivets but if you
can do the job without damaging it up, better to use the solid ones.
Friends are like angels who lift us to our feet
when our wings have trouble remembering how to fly....unknown
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up
----- Original Message -----
From: <groves(at)epix.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tips for riveting LE ribs #13 and 14 to wing spar?
>
> Hi John,
> You can you LP4-3 pop rivets.
> Best of luck
> Kirk RV-8 starting QB fuse
>>
>> From: John Lawson <rv6builder48138(at)yahoo.com>
>> Date: 2005/04/15 Fri PM 09:16:47 EDT
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Tips for riveting LE ribs #13 and 14 to wing spar?
>>
>>
>> I am having the devil's own time trying to figure out
>> how to pound the AN470-4 rivets that attach leading
>> edge ribs #13 and 14 (the two outermost) to the wing
>> main spar. There's little room to get the rivet gun
>> into the leading edge space and it's awkward as hell
>> trying to hold the rivet gun while also holding the
>> bucking bar. I even tried installing the rivets with
>> the manufactured head facing aft, instead of forward,
>> and botched them. Any suggestions as to how I can do
>> them on my own, or are these such that I really need
>> another set of hands? And...I've drilled out and
>> replaced (and botched again) at least two rivets to
>> the point where the holes are probably too large for
>> AN470-4 rivets...sigh. And it occurred to me...are
>> there any pop rivets that would work as substitutes?
>>
>> This is what I get for having to lay off building for
>> almost three years. Ugh.
>>
>> Semper Fi
>> John (RV-6 - left wing - destroying the world's supply
>> of AN470-4 rivets one at a time)
>>
>>
>>
>> __________________________________
>> http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 15, 2005
From:
Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Engine problems.
The typical symptom for 1 out of 2 plugs fouled in a
cylinder is that EGT goes up and CHT goes down. The
reason for this is that the MAGS are timed so that the
optimal timing and power occurs when both plugs are
firing. When only one of the two plugs fires, the
flame front starts out smaller, and travels a bit
slower. The end result is that the combustion process
doesn't quite complete itself before the exhaust valve
opens, and so the combustion energy is transferred to
the exhaust rather than the cylinder. This is why the
CHT's drop and EGT's rise in this situation.
Skylor
RV-8 QB, Under Construction
--- Albert Gardner wrote:
>
>
> Engine Lyc O-320-A1A 150hp, Bendix mags.
> Symptoms: Started running rough on right mag, EGT's
> normal except #1 was
> elevated approx 200 degs. in cruise, CHT about 20
> deg. lower than normal.
> Solution: Found #1L plug was shorted with small
> balls of material stuck-one
> in each gap. When tested, at first plug did not fire
> but soon started firing
> even though mater was still in gap. After cleaning,
> engine runs normally,
> both EGT and CHT as before.
> After reading all the posts recently about engine
> problems I don't
> understand why the EGT was elevated with plug
> fouled. I would have thought
> the unburned fuel would have cooled the exhaust and
> lowered EGT.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-9A 872RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
From:
GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca>
Subject:
Tips for riveting LE ribs #13 and 14 to wing spar?
Hi John
I also laid off building for about 3 years after completing a RV-6A and then
started on a RV-7A.
Had a terrible time driving AN470-4 rivets and didn't remember having
trouble with the first aircraft.
After drilling out some rivets three times and using larger rivets I decided
to buy a new rivet set (get two, 3" and 5" from Cleveland), suddenly no more
problems with mashed rivet heads and humungous smiley's.
Not sure if this is factual but I was later told that some of the cheaper RV
builders kits had included used rivet sets and I guess they do wear out.
George in Langley BC
7A fwd fuse
-----Original Message-----
I am having the devil's own time trying to figure out
how to pound the AN470-4 rivets
snip-------------------
And...I've drilled out and replaced (and botched again) at least two rivets
to
the point where the holes are probably too large for AN470-4 rivets...sigh.
snip----------
This is what I get for having to lay off building for
almost three years. Ugh.
Semper Fi
John (RV-6 - left wing - destroying the world's supply
of AN470-4 rivets one at a time)
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject:
Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
> Subject: RV-List: Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
>
Tim, you will have a hard time finding a better person to talk to about your
questions than Bart LaLonde of Aerosport Power. He is almost always
available on the phone, and will spend as much time with you as you need.
He will build an engine with all new parts, partly used, everything used,
whatever you want. I have yet to hear of any customer service problems that
they did not take care of. I have over 600 hours on my Aerosport engine
now, and it looks as clean as the day I installed it. The engines are works
of art.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 609 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
Dwpetrus(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
Subject:
Re: Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
Freight on my engine to Louisiana was $195?? It was less to ship from
Canada than it would have been from Dallas.
wp
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
Subject:
Re: Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
From:
Doug Weiler <dcw(at)nomadwi.com>
Tim:
I will second Alex's assessment of AeroSport. I now have 175+ hrs on my
Aerosport engine and it has been flawless.
When I was engine shopping, I had heard so many good reports about Bart, I
decided to combine a ski trip to Kamloops with a visit to his shop (this was
6 years ago). Bart is an engine genius in my opinion. I spent the morning
with him and most of the time he was talking way over my head. I was sold
right there.
Since then, more than a dozen Aerosport engines are powering RVs in the Twin
Cities RV Builder's Club. Bart will go that extra mile and there have been
many instances his outstanding customer service.
My engine was 100% new except for the case which was an OH unit. Bart will
build an engine in any many you choose with whatever parts you choose. As
to taxes and shipping, I think I recall a small broker fee (seems like it
was 50 or 60 dollars and that was it. Shipping was comparable to a similar
parcel coming from Van's.
If you would like more details, feel free to contact me off list.
Doug Weiler, pres MN Wing
Hudson, WI
On 4/16/05 8:26 AM, "Tim Olson" wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have been trying to figure out where to buy my engine, and I want to
> buy it soon. I've talked to a couple of domestic engine shops, and
> AeroSport Power in Canada. I've heard they have a good reputation,
> which is my main motivator for them.
>
> My questions are: I'm in Wisconsin and I had another engine company
> tell me that if I order from AeroSport I might face some odd tax
> consequences as customs or someone makes Aerosport report to your
> state the cost of the engine or something like that. I'm not sure
> this is really relevant though, because I'm thinking that in Wisconsin
> I need to pay sales tax on the plane when I register it anyway...this
> would just be paying tax early I'd assume. Can anyone who's purchased
> one from them, or knows what the deal is enlighten me?
>
> Another question is, do pretty much all engine companies re-use the
> cams and gears? I was thinking that Aerosport said they reuse the
> crank and case, but most companies give me the impression that those
> are the only parts re-used....but, when you push harder and dig
> deeper, they seem to start to indicate that they regrind cams if
> within limits, reuse gears, and some other things. I'd like to
> go as new as possible.
>
> Regarding fuel injection systems: AeroSport lists their IO's with
> "new fuel injection system". Then I talked to another place and
> they rebuild the existing bendix system. What's the best route
> here? Does Aerosport use precision fuel injection systems that
> would be much better?
>
> My last question is, the last engine place I talked to looked at me
> like I was crazy when I asked if they use roller lifters on their
> engines or if they can. They said that in all 20+ years they haven't
> done that. I was under the impression that there are new roller
> lifters out recently, and that these things are great for reducing
> wear. What's the deal?
>
> Thanks for any help you guys can offer. I'm hoping to start to rope
> in my engine soon.
>
> Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
From:
"Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject:
Re: Ique 3600a ?
Jim Jewell wrote:
>>I am considering the iQue 3600a to put in my homebuilt and was wondering
>>if the unit has the ability to drive my autopilot through some sort of
>>link? Or to put it another way is there provisions for a signal out?
>
> Garmin's answer indicated that the iQue 3600a is the one portable GPS that
> does not output the NMEA 0183 sentences needed by some devices to drive an
> autopilot.
I just read in a magazine this week (i'll try and find the article if
anyone wants it) that some of Garmin's eTrex units only have USB
connectors, and *DO NOT* support the NMEA standard protocols. Garmin
appears to be moving away from the NMEA standards, at least on their
consumer-oriented units. I'm not sure if the 3600a falls in this
category or not, but you should be able to find out from Garmin what
protocols it will output and how it does it. If you know what protocols
your autopilot takes in, it should be a simple matter to determine
whether they're compatable.
fwiw, I replaced my trusty GPS III with a GPSMAP 76CS this year. I
still advocate avoiding the aviation units with their expensive,
proprietary databases. A consumer GPS can have all the airports you
want entered into it with your computer, and you can always carry a
Flight Supplement to look up frequencies. And the FS is cheaper to keep
up-to-date than a proprietary aviation database.
Just my $0.02!
Rob in Burnaby
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Subject:
Re: Ique 3600a ?
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
3600a doesn't output ANYTHING. It's not designed to interact with any other device
according to on of their folks I called.
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> Jim Jewell wrote:
> >>I am considering the iQue 3600a to put in my homebuilt and was wondering
> >>if the unit has the ability to drive my autopilot through some sort of
> >>link? Or to put it another way is there provisions for a signal out?
> >
> > Garmin's answer indicated that the iQue 3600a is the one portable GPS that
> > does not output the NMEA 0183 sentences needed by some devices to drive an
> > autopilot.
>
> I just read in a magazine this week (i'll try and find the article if
> anyone wants it) that some of Garmin's eTrex units only have USB
> connectors, and *DO NOT* support the NMEA standard protocols. Garmin
> appears to be moving away from the NMEA standards, at least on their
> consumer-oriented units. I'm not sure if the 3600a falls in this
> category or not, but you should be able to find out from Garmin what
> protocols it will output and how it does it. If you know what protocols
> your autopilot takes in, it should be a simple matter to determine
> whether they're compatable.
>
> fwiw, I replaced my trusty GPS III with a GPSMAP 76CS this year. I
> still advocate avoiding the aviation units with their expensive,
> proprietary databases. A consumer GPS can have all the airports you
> want entered into it with your computer, and you can always carry a
> Flight Supplement to look up frequencies. And the FS is cheaper to keep
> up-to-date than a proprietary aviation database.
>
> Just my $0.02!
>
> Rob in Burnaby
>
>
>
>
>
>
3600a doesn't output ANYTHING. It's not designed to interact with any other device
according to on of their folks I called.
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)"
Jim Jewell wrote:
-- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell"
I am considering the iQue 3600a to put in my homebuilt and was wondering
if the unit has the ability to drive my autopilot through some sort of
link? Or to put it another way is there provisions for a signal out?
Garmin's answer indicated that the iQue 3600a is the one portable GPS that
does not output the NMEA 0183 sentences needed by some devices to drive an
autopilot.
I just read in a magazine this week (i'll try and find the article if
anyone wants it) that some of Garmin's eTrex units only have USB
connectors,
and *DO NOT* support the NMEA standard protocols. Garmin
appears to be moving away from the NMEA standards, at least on their
consumer-oriented units. I'm not sure if the 3600a falls in this
category or not, but you should be able to find out from Garmin what
protocols it will output and how it does it. If you know what protocols
your autopilot takes in, it should be a simple matter to determine
whether they're compatable.
fwiw, I replaced my trusty GPS III with a GPSMAP 76CS this year. I
still advocate avoiding the aviation units with their expensive,
proprietary databases. A consumer GPS can have all the airports you
want entered into it with your computer, and you can always carry a
Flight Supplement to look up frequencies. And the FS is cheaper to keep
up-to-date than a proprietary aviation database.
Just my $0.02!
Rob
in Burnaby
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject:
Re: Aerosport Engines
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
Tim,
Have an O-360 A1A from Aero Sport Power and have 45 hours of flight time on
airplane. Engine is now running as expected.
However, there were some detail issues:
1. Engine was shipped without desiccant plugs as promised.
2. Engine was shipped without oil dip stick and tube.
3. Starter needed to be exchanged because the gear did not match the ring
gear on the engine.
4. Engine would not start because the LASAR mags were not timed correctly.
Right mag was 360 deg off. (timed to fire on the exhaust stroke) Left mag
was timed "out in left field".
On the tax issue, check it out carefully. Another local RV builder sent an
engine to ASP for repair after a prop. strike and had to pay taxes to get it
back.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A in North Carolina
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
In a message dated 4/14/05 5:42:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Vanremog(at)aol.com
writes:
> < their
> creations.
>
> If you were in my shoes, where I am just about to take my 6A to the
> airport,
> would you replace the vertical stab and rudder with a 7/7A version prior to
> getting everything completed? Those of you that are flying the 6/6A, do
> you
> ever wish you had more rudder authority? Is the tendency to fishtail that
> apparent with the 6/6A vertical stab and rudder?
> >>
I've only got 62+ hours on my -6 so far but I would also say "no way"
(especially if you are planning on a lighter prop like a composite or wood.)
Yeah, there is a little bit of fish tailing in moderate turbulence, but so
what? I don't have any significant amount of time in a "V" tail Bonanza but
I've always heard they do the same thing. The airplane flies just fine with the
original tail, why screw with success and add tail weight in the process.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 62 hours
R
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject:
confused about taxes
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
Hi all,
I am getting ready to order the -10 kit and trying to make heads or tails of
the California / Santa Clara County tax laws around aircraft, and
specifically homebuilts ;) Does anyone have any resources that they can
refer me to to get a plain English explanation of the rules?
i.e. since I'll be buying from a seller in Oregon, for California, do I pay
the sales tax for each component of the kit as I buy it? Do I just pay use
tax when I register it instead? Am I liable for property tax / use tax
every year on the thing?
Santa Clara county is going to be fun too.. apparently they have a tax that
was created in the 1800's to tax farmers allowing their animals to graze on
county land. They have managed to apply this tax to aircraft owners
hangaring their aircraft in the county by calling it a property tax on
exclusive use of public lands - even though your rental fee for the hanger
goes to the county / airport. Add this to what I have heard is a 1% annual
property tax and who knows what else, and maybe I'll just need to look for a
hangar / tie down (20 year waiting lists on hangars around here :P)
somewhere else!
Everything I can find on the tax agencies web site is written in such a way
as to be so vague that it actually doesn't say anything useful and is geared
toward the purchase of a built and flying aircraft. I can't imagine that it
is really that complicated to state what the taxes due are. I would think
an individual buying a kit out of state, building it, then registering it
should be a very simple case on the state level.
Man I hate tax law. It doesn't have to be this complicated! ;)
Thanks,
James
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
From:
Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject:
[Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade...
Dear Listers,
I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This includes
some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable processors -
as well as a complete operating system upgrade from scratch. I hope to
have both the old system and the new system running at the same time to
minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but a
few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show up
on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then please
just try posting it again.
Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
to it as often as you like:
http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
possible!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
<dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com>
Subject:
VM1000 Fuel flow transducer mounting
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
Can anyone help with where they mounted their VM1000 Fuel Flow transducer? We
are building an RV-6, with a Lycoming O-360-AIA engine. The instructions say
to mount level, between the engine driven fuel pump and the carb, and allow
at least 5" minimum straight length between. How does one do that?
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
From:
"Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject:
Re: VM1000 Fuel flow transducer mounting
I mounted mine just downstream of the gasolator (RV8) . . . I would
think flow would need to be down stream of the engine driven pump?
I'm using ACS and EI furnished the flow sensor?
Good Luck,
Bob
RV-8 - N678RC
On 4/16/05, dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com wrote:
>
> Can anyone help with where they mounted their VM1000 Fuel Flow transducer?
We are building an RV-6, with a Lycoming O-360-AIA engine. The instructions say
to mount level, between the engine driven fuel pump and the carb, and allow
at least 5" minimum straight length between. How does one do that?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Eric Whiteside" <erwhites(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject:
VM1000 Fuel flow transducer mounting
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
On my flying rv6 the transducer is mounted on firewall with flex hose
from pump -> transducer -> carb. Works fine. As long as you have
straight in & out fittings on the transducer and no sharp bends in
the hose that would create turbulence I think you are ok.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com
Subject: RV-List: VM1000 Fuel flow transducer mounting
Can anyone help with where they mounted their VM1000 Fuel Flow transducer?
We are building an RV-6, with a Lycoming O-360-AIA engine. The instructions
say to mount level, between the engine driven fuel pump and the carb, and
allow at least 5" minimum straight length between. How does one do that?
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
PSPRV6A(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
Subject:
Re: Rising EGT with one fouled plug
With only one plug firing, the flame front has to travel more than twice
as far to burn the fuel air charge. This means some of the combustion energy
is liberated at a lower availability to be converted into useful work on the
piston. Energy not extracted by the piston remains in the exhaust. Ideally,
all of the combustion should be complete very shortly after top dead center. A
shorted plug defeats that and combustion after TDC raises EGT. Pure
thermodynamics! Paul S. Petersen, RV6A with son Eric, 90% finished
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
From:
Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: VM1000 Fuel flow transducer mounting
Bob,
To maintain the installation requirements as called out by VM, specifically the correct transducer orientation and at least 5" of unbended line into the transducer from the fuel pump, I fabricated a type of shelf out of .040 right angle stock onto which the transducer is bolted and the assembly attached to the left firewall area with nutplates. I had to make up custom fuel hoses as the lengths are not exactly the cookie cutter variety included in Van's firewall forward kits. I just uploaded a close up detail shot of the installation and it can be accessed in my photo gallery section at http://www.rvaero.com/ The engine is an O-320-D1A.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
From:
gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
rv-list
Subject:
IO-360 oilcooler
Hi gang
I am about to order a bunch of FWF parts from Van's, amongst them an oil
cooler.
Van's has 2 oilcoolers the Steward Warner and the Positech for the IO-360.
any pro/cons/indifferences to either??
I searched the archives but it seems the results are ambigiuos, any
results for the updated Positech??
Thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
In a message dated 4/16/2005 11:44:23 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
HCRV6(at)aol.com writes:
Yeah, there is a little bit of fish tailing in moderate turbulence, but so
what? I don't have any significant amount of time in a "V" tail Bonanza but
I've always heard they do the same thing.
=====================================
The Bonanza wags way more IMO than the infinitesimal tail wag of the RV-6A.
When I first got in one of those V-tailed monsters (one with the throw over
yoke), I thought we were wandering all over the sky. Not pleasant. The RV
is wonderful as is with the small booty.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 738hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
Subject:
Re: confused about taxes
In a message dated 4/16/2005 11:45:21 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
jochs(at)froody.org writes:
I am getting ready to order the -10 kit and trying to make heads or tails of
the California / Santa Clara County tax laws around aircraft, and
specifically homebuilts ;) Does anyone have any resources that they can
refer me to to get a plain English explanation of the rules?
=========================================
CA state board of equalization has a pamphlet you can probably request on
their website.
i.e. since I'll be buying from a seller in Oregon, for California, do I pay
the sales tax for each component of the kit as I buy it? Do I just pay use
tax when I register it instead?
=========================================
Use tax when you register it.
Am I liable for property tax / use tax
every year on the thing?
=========================================
You will pay property tax in the county you hangar it.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 738hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Garth Shearing" <garth(at)islandnet.com>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I
Date:
Apr 16, 2005
A small chunk of additional information.
I was following a friend's RV6A in my VariEze one day and noticed his tail
wagging. I asked him on the radio if he was doing that for my benefit and
his answer was that it was a characteristic of the RV6 and that it is
somewhat speed dependent. The small chunk is that it is plainly visible
from another aircraft, so the wag at the tail must be at least a few inches.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 90% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
From:
John Lawson <rv6builder48138(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Tips for riveting LE ribs #13 and 14 to wing
Thanks to all who answered my question! A
follow-up...one lister suggested blind rivets, and
another suggested substituting bolts for the rivets.
Has anyone else used them? Any suggestions on rivet
and/or bolt diameters?
John (RV-6)
__________________________________
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject:
Re: Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
Aerosport, Burt and his staff are truly top shelf. They built up my XP 360 and
did an excellent job in all regards.
As to Tax issues: Because Aerosport is in Canada, your engine will have to clear
US Customs on it's return across the boarder. Customs has an agreement with
and notifies all states if shipments across the border bound to individual states.
Customs and its agreement is the problem not Aerosport.
If your state picks up on the fact that it may be a new engine, then you may be
charged sales tax by your state if you have not already paid them. If you can
prove previous ownership and or payment of sales tax there is no problem. I
know I had to pay around $1,400 sales tax on my engine.
If I had it to do over again I would have paid the sales tax on the engine when
it was in pieces from Superior rather than after completion. Like me you may
not like it, but if you read the Tax Code for your state they are really entitled
to the tax.
Steve Glasgow
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Bob Collins" <bcollins(at)visi.com>
Subject:
Re: Tips for riveting LE ribs #13 and 14 to wing spar? (GMC)
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
// LE ribs and 470-4
When I've gotten into this pattern of being unable to make a decent rivet
with 4's -- and I have -- I've always found the solution is to slow
down...turn it down... Relax. I think driving rivets is like golf; it
messes with your head and pretty soon you start anticipating a bad shot
and...voila...you get a bad shot. It's as much confidence as it is
technique and the goal right now is to set a good rivet and get some
confidence back.
If you're getting smileys, turn the gun pressure down so things are not
bouncing around. Keep the bar and the gun on the work and use a couple of
small "atta tats" to set your rivet, rather than just plowing ahead.
Get yourself back in the mindeset of not moving stuff off the work. Once you
let go of the trigger, count "one thouand one, one thousand two" and THEN
remove your bucking bar and gun off the work. That'll help you get your
timing back.
For those leading edge rivets near the wing ribs...grind down an offset set
so you can keep your gun straight. Now, using the offset set is a pain in
the neck because it wants to flop around. You can try putting a little duct
tape to keep it from doing so, but not much. On these rivets, it's not a
terrible idea to get someone to work the gun, while you work the bucking
bar. These rivets are difficult solo (by the way, you might want to consider
pop rivets for these particular rivets.
On the wing spar, with 4's, I can tell you (and you're under no obligation
to accept this): live with the rivet you drive. I've rarely seen -- from
personal experience -- where drilling out a rivet didn't cause a bigger
problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Mounting Fuel Flow Transducer
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
For those looking at how to mount the flow transducer (mine is the std
Flowscan 201)
I recently had discussed with EI who along with JPI have instructions for
mounting the transducer on the web. In fact, Gary (I believe was his name)
from EI called me to respond to my direct Email to EI. I'm using a FI
system and he said to mount the transducer in the line from the Servo to the
Distribution Spider on the top of the engine. Just mount it in the line,
support the line no more than 8" away, wrap the device as shown in their
instructions with FireSleeve (-24 size) and it should be good to go. So
that is what I'm about to do. One can also mount this in the line from the
pump to the carb the same way without having to mount the transducer on the
Firewall. The EI representative said there doesn't have to be much in the
way of a straight length before or after the transducer to get accurate
readings. There was a discussion on the Lycoming groups list about this in
February with Don at AFP contributing who also basically stated the above.
YMMV
Marty in Brentwood TN
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
Subject:
Re: Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
I have talked to Aerosport and they are great people with a great reputation. I
only want to make you aware of a couple of potential issues.
This comes after my very negative experience with Crossflow Aero out of Canada.
So bad in fact that a law suit will be filed next week after their failure to
accept a very generous settlement offer.
1) I got nailed for $1500 in Customs fees many months after the initial delivery.
2) Also got nailed for $1300 in sales tax from the State of Arizona.
Again nothing against Aerosport but there are plenty of US companies that have
excellent engines. My choice is now ECI. All certified parts but at very competitive
prices. They have been great to work with and you avoid all other potential
issues.
Just my thoughts.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
From:
Land Shorter <landshorter2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Should I or shouldn't I- vortex generators
Hi Jerry and the RV-List gang,
I sell VGs at a very affordable price ($95). Plus I offer a 100% money back guarantee.
Why don't you give them a try and see for yourself?
Most of my RV customers are noticing a 4-6 mph reduction in stall and better low
speed handling.
You can find more information on my website at www.landshorter.com or by giving me a call at 877-272-1414.
Thanks.
Joa
www.landshorter.com
Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
John ...
Would you mind telling ALL about your installed vortex generators. What
improved, what changed, where you got them, what spacing, yada, yada.
Thanx ...
Jerry Grimmonpre
Huntley, IL RV7A
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
From:
<gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: confused about taxes (APPLIES TO MANY STATES)
>i.e. since I'll be buying from a seller in Oregon, for California, do I pay
>the sales tax for each component of the kit as I buy it? Do I just pay
use
>tax when I register it instead? Am I liable for property tax / use tax
>every year on the thing?
WARNING LUXERY TAX OR PERSONAL PEOPERTY TAX APPLIES TO *MANY* STATES, INCLUDING
RV AIRPLANES, EVEN IF YOU BUILT IT!
MOST IMPORTANT, when you finish your airplane the state you live in may have their
hand out and want you to pay several thousand in TAXES. This is like buying
anything, new car or TV, you will have to pay sales tax on it. KNOW YOUR STATES
LOCAL TAX LAWS ON PERSONAL PEOPERTY / AIRCRAFT.
For those building an RV and who have never have owned a plane in the state they
live, may be in for a BIG UNPLEASENT SURPRISE. Some states have personal property
or Luxury tax, which applies to boats & planes. Basically it is a ONE TIME
SALES tax on the value or cost of the vehicle. Since cars and boats are often
registered by the state it is easy for them to tax you. Airplanes being federally
registered make it harder for them to collect, but they have ways of tracking
you down and making you pay.
Like all current "mail order" sales, the seller does not have to charge sales tax
for out of state orders (yet). Van's (mail order) Aircraft does not collect
state sales tax for other states. You may be liable down the road but not at
the kit level (but check your local laws). When the kits become a vehicle they
(state revenue dept) may have their hand out. (Varies state to state). BTW, Oregon
is one of 5 states without sales tax. As far as paying tax on a kit I son't
know how the state would even know.
I would not volunteer to pay taxes on individual kits as you go. I would wait until
you have finished building and registered the aircraft. However any taxes
you pay along the way (avionics, parts, prop, engine) can be deduct from the
final tax. So keep good records.
How they (state tax-man) values an airplane you built from a kit is a whole other
story and gets a little complicated. SAVE ALL RECIEPTS AND ANY SALES TAX YOU
PAY ALONG THE WAY. It may be in your best interest to keep good cost records.
Q: You might say, "I did not buy the plane I made it, so why do they want sales
tax?"
A: Well they do. Even if you can mail order parts and kits from out of state, free
of tax, when you put it together and make a boat, plane or car out of those
parts, the local tax-man may want a piece of the action. (check state laws)
What if you build it and hide it in a hanger and never pay the tax? You can do
that and you might get a way with it. If you fly of a private airstrip you might
avoid detection? I am not saying you should avoid taxes, just that some states
are not as tight on tracking down aircraft owners.
How do they catch plane owners who don't pay? Well first they drive around airports
and take N numbers down on the ramp or runway. They check the aircraft's
registered address and owners address (from auto or pilots license records). Some
states issue yearly stickers and they look for those. You might say you can
register it out of state. You might as well as change your pilots license out
of state too. You can try that, but they have ways of catching you. A famous
case in WA State caught a Billionaire trying to avoid tax on his fleet of Jets.
(This someone had something to do with Microsoft, not Bill). He had a fake
company to hold his corporate jets in Oregon (no sales tax), although he flew
them out of Seattle. They figured out what he was doing and he had to pay millions
in tax. (He had many jets and a turbine floatplane). Not only where his
planes registered in Oregon, they noticed when they went to his house his expensive
cars had Oregon plates. So the out-of-state-re
gister
game may work for a small guy, however if the tax guy keeps seeing your plane
at the same airport, for a long period, they will come knocking. What they can
do if they catch you, besides collect the tax, I do not know? I recommend you
pay your taxes, so you don't have to look over your shoulder all the time. Otherwise
move to a state that does not tax airplanes.
After the first one time big "sales" tax some states charge a small annual registration
fee. In WA State the annual renewal of the sticker, was something like
$20-$30. Most of the yearly registration fee went to the state aeronautical
coffers for search and rescue, or that is what they said. The state troopers would
check for stickers on planes at airports. You are not taxed annually; only
the first time you register it. After that is is just the "sticker fee". What
do other states like CA charge yearly? I do not know. If they were taxing you
yearly I would move.
Many states have become savvy with the kit planes. It used to be you could go in
and say your plane is worth $8,000 in parts. They will say "Nope, isnt going
to fly". They know what stuff cost and want receipts. Otherwise they may go on
trade-a-plane or other "blue-book" type index. You have some leeway in valuing
it, so use what is to your advantage.
In Washington state there is an exemption on the books that the "the manufacture"
does not have to pay tax. So Boeing does not have to pay tax on a B747 they
build, the buyer does. (However the buyers fly to Canada and to "get the keys",
avoiding sales tax.)
You might say, "Hey, I am the manufacture," so I can write off the tax. You would
be right in that you made it, but the revenue service in WA State says it does
not apply to you, an amateur builder (manufacturer). It has been tried. Don't
ask me how I know ;-) .
The future is internet "mail order" sales is in question. Some states that would
like to tax you on ALL "mail order" out of states purchase, regardless of what
it is. That has not happened yet to my knowledge, but they are trying. Make
sure your state is not trying this. Write your state Gov or vote accordingly.
Fact is, regardless of sales tax, states with personal property tax on items
like boats and planes will eventually want their money, whether you built it or
bought it.
I think awareness and working the tax laws in your favor, with in the law, is a
wise thing to do. As far as a business expense? Good luck.
Cheers George
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Wonky Altimeter
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
I flew home from SnF this morning, and as I was entering the pattern at my home
field, my eyeballs told me that I was lower than the altimeter was reading.
Sure enough, I tapped on the instrument's glass face, and it more or less corrected
itself. When I landed, the altimeter was off again (reading high again),
so I rapped on the face, and it corrected to field level.
Other than making sure there isn't a problem in the static system, is there anything
else I can do other than pulling out the altimeter and sending it to a repair
shop?
Anyone got a recommendation for an altimeter repair shop in the Atlanta area?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
From:
<gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: confused about taxes (APPLIES TO MANY STATES)
For those who have owned many planes, this may be old news, but some builders may
be first time aircraft owners and not aware of the tax liability.
I wanted to add to my previous post this reference:
http://www.sbw.org/tax/
I did not want to appear cavalier about taxation on your RV. What ever it is called:
Luxury Tax, Use Tax, Personal Property Tax or Excise Tax, it is tax. I checked
my state and a few others. All I can say is there are many variations.
I am RV-less for now and way done on my RV-7 and have a 100% to go; You know
what I mean. I am new to this state, and never owned an aircraft in this state
before. Goggle: personal property tax+aircraft+(state) Try other names like:
excise tax, use tax, luxury tax. BTW, Oregon which did not have tax on aircraft,
is now considering Luxury tax on aircraft.
Also failure to pay, if caught can be stiff and result in seizure of property.
Again not to scare anyone, just wanted those new to aircraft ownership to know
about aircraft taxation. I came across it by accident myself after buying my
first aircraft. As far as exemption, historic and Airline (common carriage) get
tax breaks. If you try the "I am the manufacture" and thus tax exempt, good
luck, hope it works.
The good news RVs are popular and have high resale. Unfortunately the bad news
is due to their popularity and high resale value, tax will be much higher than
other kit planes. Since many states will go on fair market value, regardless
of what you have into it. $30,000 RVs of 15 years ago are now $80,000. At 1%-2.5%
tax rate yearly, that can add up.
Cheers George
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject:
RV-7 N3XG Flys High
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
Pie ChartsToday another new RV-7 left the earthly bound of gravity for the first
time. SunSeeker was flown first by RV-8 latch man Mike Zeller. Mike looked
with a careful eye when I told him I thought it was ready for flight and asked
him if he would do the honors. So the RV-8 Latch man checked about everything
again that Kentucky-based DAR Pat Patterson had checked weeks ago when he awarded
the plane its airworthiness certificate.
Mike took the active runway and announced he was beginning a high speed taxi test.
After 150 feet or so, and everything feeling real straight and solid, he
said the plane just wanted to fly. With tail up it left the earth for the first
time for a trip that would not end for1 hour. Mike flew the flight for the
most part by feel and keeping his eyes outside the plane. He had lots of info
available inside however to tell how things were going on the perfectly clear,
low wind day that had the breeze mostly right down the runway. Occasionally
he checked a Dynon flight indicator and an Advanced Flight Systems ACS2002 engine
monitor and heard no annuciating warning messages from the monitor and Garmin
340 intercom.. These insturments confirmed what he felt about the flight
that the Mattituck TMX-O360 engine running on one impulse slick mag and one
Jeff Rose EI connected to a FP Sensenich prop were performing as expected. Mike
maintained a near constant circling climb around the airport so he could see
over the top cowling comfortably and did watch the CHT for a new engine break
in. He leveled off at 10,500 and noted that pressures and temps were ok.
The left wing was a bit heavy but it flies straight otherwise. The Garmin 430
GPS reported speeds in the 170 kts without wheelpants and landing gear leg fairings
in level flight. There are lots of people to thank in the completion of
the plane. I hope I don't forget anyone there are so many.
Thanks to the local EAA21 club and the many members who have helped with this slow
build project that took just at 4 years. Special thanks go to my wife Karen,
noted EAA21 members John Crabtree, Vince Frazier, Earl Schroeder, Keith
Schlagater, Steve Eberhart, Bill Majors, Jim Hall, Don Taylor, and everyone else
that know they helped and I am too short on words to properly acknowledge.
One such person is Bill Brooks who helped just about every Friday for the last
three years. Without his help, I would still be bucking rivets. Also I got
encouragement and ideas from Dan Overall although he could not convert me away
from the TMX-O360 engine. And also David Lowe for being my tailwheel CFI.
David operates out of his private strip in Sacramento, Kentucky. And John Crabtree
will provide me transition training in his RV6 as I step up to this hot
rod from the Cessna 140.
I am looking forward to commanding SunSeeker in the near future. This feeling
is about a good as it gets without it being illegal or immoral. I can not imagine
how it can be much better behind the stick, but I am sure it will be.
So,,,,,for all you guys who are headed in the same direction, my advice just take
it one day at a time. Keep in good with your family and never forget that
I listed my wife first as one of my greatest helpers although she bucked only
a few rivets just to see what it was like.
For the knowledge of it all is why I did it -- not the thrill. What a project!!
Friends are like angels who lift us to our feet
when our wings have trouble remembering how to fly....unknown
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up, SunSeeker
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
From:
Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Re:Landshorter Vortex generators
At 12:10 PM 4/17/2005, you wrote:
>
>Hi Jerry and the RV-List gang,
>
>I sell VGs at a very affordable price ($95). Plus I offer a 100% money
>back guarantee. Why don't you give them a try and see for yourself?
>
>Most of my RV customers are noticing a 4-6 mph reduction in stall and
>better low speed handling.
>
>You can find more information on my website at www.landshorter.com or by
>giving me a call at 877-272-1414.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Joa
Joa,
Your web site has no remarks or testimonials on the use of VG's on the RV
series of aircraft. I see no reason why they wouldn't improve the slow
speed handling of the RV wing, BUT why don't you supply one of us (not me)
with a set of VG's and instructions. You might find that you won't be able
to keep up with production.
The only resistance you will find is that they can't be removed without
removing the paint. If you overcome this problem, everyone will be a
potential customer. I would gladly try them out. If I was unhappy with
them, I wouldn't ask for my money back. I'd just remove them.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
From:
Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
Subject:
Re: Wonky Altimeter
Kyle;
Any chance of water accumulating at a low point in the static system? This
could be rain in flight but more likely rain dripping down the side and
entering the static ports when parked or perhaps a wash job with a pressure
hose. Climbing and descending with a blob of water in the lines will cause
some interesting surges in pressure with resulting jumps in altimeter
readings.
(Avoiding water entry is a good reason to run the line joining the two ports
to a tee-fitting at the top of the fuselage, like Vans plans show. Guess who
didn't and who found out the 'interesting' way on an RV-3.)
OTOH, simply tapping the instrument is not likely to correct a water
blockage, so it way well be off to the instrument shop with your sticky
altimeter. A quick puff of air in the main static line from an air gun or
similar might be worth a try - watch for any water emerging from the static
ports - and won't cost much.
Needless to say, make sure that all your other instruments using static
pressure are disconnected first or a blast from an air hose could be quite
costly !
Jim Oke
RV-3, RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Wonky Altimeter
>
> I flew home from SnF this morning, and as I was entering the pattern at my
> home field, my eyeballs told me that I was lower than the altimeter was
> reading. Sure enough, I tapped on the instrument's glass face, and it
> more or less corrected itself. When I landed, the altimeter was off again
> (reading high again), so I rapped on the face, and it corrected to field
> level.
>
> Other than making sure there isn't a problem in the static system, is
> there anything else I can do other than pulling out the altimeter and
> sending it to a repair shop?
>
> Anyone got a recommendation for an altimeter repair shop in the Atlanta
> area?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Shirley Harding" <shirleyh(at)argo.net.au>
Subject:
RV6 chin scoop and Superior engine
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
Hi guys ,
I originally ordered the 0320 size chin scoop for my RV6 (5 years ago ) but then
have subsequently put an O360 engine in. It is a Superior 0360 engine with
a carby (Precision Airmotive M-4-5). As you can imagine the O320 scoop doesn't
fit.
A reply from Vans states that they have not seen a Superior engine but believe
if the dimensions are
indeed the same as the Lycoming - that their O360 chin scoop should fit it OK.
Anybody out there with the same problem or any advice?
Thank you
Shirley Harding RV6 QB
Perth, Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
From:
Land Shorter <landshorter2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re:Landshorter Vortex generators
Hi Louis,
I need to update my testimonials, just need to find the time first :)
Most folks are putting the VGs on with double-stick tape to try them out. If you're
careful when taking them off (and follow my directions included with the
VGs) you usually won't have any problems with any of the paint coming off.
Joa
www.landshorter.com
+++++++++++++
The only resistance you will find is that they can't be removed without
removing the paint. If you overcome this problem, everyone will be a
potential customer. I would gladly try them out. If I was unhappy with
them, I wouldn't ask for my money back. I'd just remove them.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 17, 2005
From:
Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject:
[Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade Complete!
Dear Listers,
The upgrade of the Matronics Email Server can be considered complete at
this time. All known issues related to the upgrade process have been
resolved and email services are running normal. The Nightly Digest
processing has not yet been tested and will wait for tonight's update.
If you encounter any odd behavior with respect to the Matronics Email
Server over the next few days, please contact me via email at
dralle(at)matronics.com or if that fails try dralle(at)speakeasy.net.
Thanks to everyone for being patient through this arduous process of a
major system upgrade!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
At 12:37 PM 4/16/2005 Saturday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This
>includes some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable
>processors - as well as a complete operating system upgrade from
>scratch. I hope to have both the old system and the new system running at
>the same time to minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
>
>Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but
>a few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show
>up on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then
>please just try posting it again.
>
>Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
>7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
>deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
>the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
>will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
>absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
>cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
>
>I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
>Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
>to it as often as you like:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
>
>
>Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
>Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
>possible!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com>
Subject:
IO-360 oilcooler
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
I can offer only anecdotal data for one Positech oil cooler. I purchased
the Positech cooler recommended by Van's for use with a 180 HP engine. It
cools and doesn't leak - at least not yet in almost 5 years of flying. I
have read numerous posts in the past about "older" Positech coolers not
providing sufficient cooling. In my -4, and most -4's I believe, running
too cool is more likely to be an issue than not cool enough.
----Original Message Follows----
From: gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: IO-360 oilcooler
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 21:22:24 -0500
Hi gang
I am about to order a bunch of FWF parts from Van's, amongst them an oil
cooler.
Van's has 2 oilcoolers the Steward Warner and the Positech for the IO-360.
any pro/cons/indifferences to either??
I searched the archives but it seems the results are ambigiuos, any
results for the updated Positech??
Thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
Subject:
Re: Flight Planning
_www.fltplan.com_ (http://www.fltplan.com) is the one I use for fun and
corporate. Free and lots of info.
Regards,
Doug Preston
RV7 N731RV
C501 N577JT
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject:
Re: Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
As far as I know there is no Customs Fee.
Steve Glasgow
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
From:
Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Static System Connections
I'm with David,
I purchased the Vans static kit and installed it. By heating the 1/4"
plastic tubing in boiling water, with effort, I was able to get the plastic
tubing on the Tee fitting. Four days later, that cheap (import stuff, NOT
real Imperial Eastman Nyloflow) tubing split. I ripped it all out. I
replaced it with genuine Nyloflow tubing and fittings similar to what David
describes. I purchased the tubing and fittings from ACS.
I've also gotten the "you are the only one who has ever complained"
routine from Vans. Each time, it was in reference to a problem which was
widely reported on the RV List. I've found that Van's Dutch genes
occasionally do us a dis-service. The static kit and capacitance fuel
sender kit are two examples of this. I'm not a disgruntled customer. On the
whole, the RV kits are still the best "bang for the buck", in my opinion.
You just have to side step the occasional "pot hole" in the road. :-)
Charlie Kuss
>
>This Van's "method" has to be the most ignorant thing about the entire kit -
>totally unacceptable to do it their way. I went to a local "fittings" shop
>(brass & plastic) and bought standard, cheap Ts with the screw on caps that
>you just stick the tubing into and then tighten the caps. Totally
>professional, totally secure, totally better than forcing the one size
>tubing onto the smaller (but not small enough) tubing and then having the
>ends split by a week later. They claim "they never heard of that one
>before". Yeah, sure, I'm the ONLY ONE who had the tubing split.
>
>David
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jack" <jgh2(at)charter.net>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Static System Connections
>
>
> >
> > Is there an easy way to insert the recommended 3/16" plastic tube
> > fittings into the 1/4" OD plastic static lines. Hot water helps but
> > its still very difficult to get the tubing on all the way.
> >
> > Jack H.
> > 6A - finishing kit
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
WFACT01(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
Subject:
Re:Landshorter Vortex generators
HI-PUT THEM ON TO TRY WITH DOUBLE SIDED TAPE-IT COMES OFF-TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01(at)aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (40 PLUS HOURS)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject:
Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
Tim,
I have bought two engines from Bart and paid no customs fees, just shipping
to Florida.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
Thanks everyone, so far, for the replies to my question about engines
from AeroSport. It does sound like they have a good reputation.
I am a bit confused though, especially after Darwin's post here.
As far as taxes, I'm not worried about that. I know that either
way I'll be paying the use tax on the plane when I go to register
it, so the State of Wisconsin will get their tax one way or the
other.
I see that some said shipping was less to have it shipped from
Aerosport than similar packages shipped from closer and within
the US. I'll have to check this out.
I see that some said they had small "brokerage fees". No big
deal, since it sounds like they were small.
The big confusion though is this $1500 "Customs Fee" that
Darwin mentions....what's that all about? Was that actually
a fee for going through customs? I didn't think there were
any fees other than shipping and brokerage (other than tax).
So now I'm happy that the engines would be pretty good, but
these additional fees are still making me apprehensive. I've got
a US supplier that can supply the same engine with ECI Titan
cylinders, for probably $2000 less money. The 2 catches are
that A) The original cores come from Africa and from turbocharged
planes (ss-s-s-scary), and B) They talk of roller lifters like
they are something voodoo. I thought that roller lifters were
not only a good idea, but something that was now a good and
recent product that could help my engine's longevity.
Thanks again guys, I'm getting closer.
Tim - RV-10 #170
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
From:
SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject:
EAA Airventure Cup Race
For ANYONE who might be interested in racing in the EAA Airventure Cup Race this
year...
Please come race with us!
We would love to have more planes in the field. If we get a good turnout then mabye
EAA will notice, and will work to keep it going.
The past two years I've done this race have resulted in some of the most fun experiences
I've had flying. It's truly a good time! Come race! Join the fun!
This is a really safe form of racing. Just like a fast cross-country flight with
a lot of other planes. The planes are spaced on start and passing is at a minimum.
Basically a race against the clock. Did I say it was fun? Best way I've
found to get to OSH!
Check out: http://www.airventure.org/2005/news/050225_avcup.html
Following is a copy of correspondance between myself and the Race Director...
-----Original Message-----
From: SCOTT SPENCER [mailto:aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net]
Subject: AvCup '05
Hi Eric!
Don't know if you're still the man in charge of the race or not... but it had
occurred to me that I hadn't recieved any email correspondance regarding the race
this year... -then I thought 'Oh well, yeah, I have a new email address now...
I guess that figures' (Doh!)
So my email did change, but I'm planning on racing... and I may drag a few friends
along for their first race too. My registration package will be headed to
EAA in the near future.
Hope all's well w/ you
Scott Spencer
Race 74
RV-4-150
Hi Scott,
Yes I have been roped into doing the race again. Actually you have not missed any
e-mails since the race is sort of a mess at this point. It was canceled and
now it is back on. But we got such a late start from the indecision that went
on that we have been scrambling to get caught up. Glad you are going to be back.
Bring as many as you can get signed up. It should be about the same deal
as last year. The USAF Museum is still up in the air, we are working on that but
there are some complications due to the late timing. I will keep you posted.
Other than that it should be about the same set up as in the past. I think we have
a new Hotel this year. (The Holiday Inn is booked) The course will again be
MGY SQI RFD FLD. The finish line will be at that little private strip where
it was last year. The tower liked the mass arrival so that looks like the plan
for this year as well.
Talk to you later..
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
Dean Pichon wrote:
>
>I can offer only anecdotal data for one Positech oil cooler. I purchased
>the Positech cooler recommended by Van's for use with a 180 HP engine. It
>cools and doesn't leak - at least not yet in almost 5 years of flying. I
>have read numerous posts in the past about "older" Positech coolers not
>providing sufficient cooling. In my -4, and most -4's I believe, running
>too cool is more likely to be an issue than not cool enough.
>
>
>
>
I too, find my engine runs on the cool side. Yesterday on the way back
from Sun and Fun. I was less than 180 deg. all the way home. On the
ground taxiing in to the hangar, it rose to near 200. Ground temp was in
the low 80's.
I am using a Stewart Warner about the same size as the positech.
I also have the new Positech that was exchanged for an earlier one. It
is up in the cabinets. Workmanship on it looks as good or better than
the SW...... I would not be too concerned about using the newer
exchanged unit...
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Paul Besing" <paul(at)kitlog.com>
Subject:
Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
He must have quit charging the brokerage fee. It wasn't much, maybe $100 or
so. It was to pay the people who do that tariff paperwork, clearing
customs, etc. FWIW, Arizona didn't ask me to pay tax on the engine. They
never knew I bought it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
Tim,
I have bought two engines from Bart and paid no customs fees, just shipping
to Florida.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
Thanks everyone, so far, for the replies to my question about engines
from AeroSport. It does sound like they have a good reputation.
I am a bit confused though, especially after Darwin's post here.
As far as taxes, I'm not worried about that. I know that either
way I'll be paying the use tax on the plane when I go to register
it, so the State of Wisconsin will get their tax one way or the
other.
I see that some said shipping was less to have it shipped from
Aerosport than similar packages shipped from closer and within
the US. I'll have to check this out.
I see that some said they had small "brokerage fees". No big
deal, since it sounds like they were small.
The big confusion though is this $1500 "Customs Fee" that
Darwin mentions....what's that all about? Was that actually
a fee for going through customs? I didn't think there were
any fees other than shipping and brokerage (other than tax).
So now I'm happy that the engines would be pretty good, but
these additional fees are still making me apprehensive. I've got
a US supplier that can supply the same engine with ECI Titan
cylinders, for probably $2000 less money. The 2 catches are
that A) The original cores come from Africa and from turbocharged
planes (ss-s-s-scary), and B) They talk of roller lifters like
they are something voodoo. I thought that roller lifters were
not only a good idea, but something that was now a good and
recent product that could help my engine's longevity.
Thanks again guys, I'm getting closer.
Tim - RV-10 #170
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Subject:
Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
Just wait until you register the airplane.....
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
He must have quit charging the brokerage fee. It wasn't much, maybe
$100 or
so. It was to pay the people who do that tariff paperwork, clearing
customs, etc. FWIW, Arizona didn't ask me to pay tax on the engine.
They
never knew I bought it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
Tim,
I have bought two engines from Bart and paid no customs fees, just
shipping
to Florida.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
Thanks everyone, so far, for the replies to my question about engines
from AeroSport. It does sound like they have a good reputation.
I am a bit confused though, especially after Darwin's post here.
As far as taxes, I'm not worried about that. I know that either
way I'll be paying the use tax on the plane when I go to register
it, so the State of Wisconsin will get their tax one way or the
other.
I see that some said shipping was less to have it shipped from
Aerosport than similar packages shipped from closer and within
the US. I'll have to check this out.
I see that some said they had small "brokerage fees". No big
deal, since it sounds like they were small.
The big confusion though is this $1500 "Customs Fee" that
Darwin mentions....what's that all about? Was that actually
a fee for going through customs? I didn't think there were
any fees other than shipping and brokerage (other than tax).
So now I'm happy that the engines would be pretty good, but
these additional fees are still making me apprehensive. I've got
a US supplier that can supply the same engine with ECI Titan
cylinders, for probably $2000 less money. The 2 catches are
that A) The original cores come from Africa and from turbocharged
planes (ss-s-s-scary), and B) They talk of roller lifters like
they are something voodoo. I thought that roller lifters were
not only a good idea, but something that was now a good and
recent product that could help my engine's longevity.
Thanks again guys, I'm getting closer.
Tim - RV-10 #170
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Subject:
PARKER FAST&TITE tube connectors
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
Builders,
Anyone using, and have good 2 to 5 quantity cost source for PARKER FAST&TITE
connectors for use with poly tubing and instruments. Parker brand comes with
the AOA, looks good, simple, uses O-ring.
Comments?
Jack
-8 wiring and plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
Just want to know the experience with VG's in general on RV's and some research
/ options. I have no association with any company but do know a few RV'ers who
have experimented with VG's.
Landshort:
http://www.landshorter.com/index.html
Is unique in that their VG's are triangular wedged shaped clear plastic, clear
LEXAN (tm), cost $99. I don't know of any on RV's. They make VG's for experimental
aircraft only.
Pacific NW Aero
http://www.pnwaero.com/
They use 6063 aluminum "T" extrusions, low profile about 1" long, cost is $349.
Many are flying on RV's. They offer VG's for several certified single and multi
engine aircraft.
Micro Aerodynamics
http://www.microaero.com/
They use 6063 aluminum extrusion of similar shape, cost is $395. Many are flying
on RV's. They have a kit specifically made for the RV. They also have extensive
list of kits for certified aircraft.
Terry Jantzi
http://www.ontariorvators.org/pitot/pitot.htm
Sold by Larry Vetterman, I think they are the same aluminum style VG as PacificNW
and MicroAero at similar cost. Visit Terry's link above and you can see flight
test data. Leave it to RV builders to provide real no BS data. The VG's lowered
Stall speed by 3.5-4.5 *MPH and lowered top speed about 3.5 *MPH on a RV-6.
(* Numbers originally reported in knots)
VG Facts:
First VG's do work, all will reduced stall speed, but also expect some top end
loss as well.
The benefit is in the order of 3-6 MPH, Loss at top end, 0-4 MPH.
My opinion is that RV's fly slow enough and I absolutely don't want any loss of
top speed, since I spend my time more at cruise than approach, so I am going
to pass on the VG's for now. However there are advantages of VG's besides shorter
approaches. If you like to Dog-fight you know that you keep turning inside
until someone runs out of speed, so the VG equip RV can turn tighter. Also, clean
break at stall and better aileron authority at slow speeds has been reported.
Like everything, no free lunch. Yes you gain lower stall speed, but at a
cost of time, money and a little top speed.
Cheers George
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
From:
Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: PARKER FAST&TITE tube connectors
You can also get fittings of this type (as well as a lot of other kinds)
at McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com).
Dick Tasker
Jim Jewell wrote:
>
>Here is another company that provides fittings etc. of the type reffered to.
>That is if your local area supplier does not handle Parker.
>
>http://www.smcusa.com/sections/products/fittings_tubings.asp
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: PARKER FAST&TITE tube connectors
>
>
>
>
>>
>> Builders,
>>
>> Anyone using, and have good 2 to 5 quantity cost source for PARKER
>> FAST&TITE
>> connectors for use with poly tubing and instruments. Parker brand comes
>> with
>> the AOA, looks good, simple, uses O-ring.
>> Comments?
>>
>> Jack
>> -8 wiring and plumbing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
From:
Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re:Landshorter Vortex generators
Another disadvantage of VG's is that they will require
maneuvering speed to be reduced, since they
effectively increase the lift available at any given
airspeed.
Skylor
RV-8QB
Under Construction
--- gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
> VG Facts:
> First VG's do work, all will reduced stall speed,
> but also expect some top end loss as well.
> The benefit is in the order of 3-6 MPH, Loss at top
> end, 0-4 MPH.
>If you like to Dog-fight you know that you keep
> turning
> inside until someone runs out of speed, so the VG
> equip RV can turn tighter. Also, clean break at
> stall and better aileron authority at slow speeds
> has been reported. Like everything, no free lunch.
> Yes you gain lower stall speed, but at a cost of
> time, money and a little top speed.
>
> Cheers George
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Paul Besing" <paul(at)kitlog.com>
Subject:
Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
True...When I registered it, there were tax issues on the entire plane, but
what I was referring to was my engine was not taxed individually.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
Just wait until you register the airplane.....
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
He must have quit charging the brokerage fee. It wasn't much, maybe
$100 or
so. It was to pay the people who do that tariff paperwork, clearing
customs, etc. FWIW, Arizona didn't ask me to pay tax on the engine.
They
never knew I bought it.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aerosport Engines and Shipping/Tax issues
Tim,
I have bought two engines from Bart and paid no customs fees, just
shipping
to Florida.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
Thanks everyone, so far, for the replies to my question about engines
from AeroSport. It does sound like they have a good reputation.
I am a bit confused though, especially after Darwin's post here.
As far as taxes, I'm not worried about that. I know that either
way I'll be paying the use tax on the plane when I go to register
it, so the State of Wisconsin will get their tax one way or the
other.
I see that some said shipping was less to have it shipped from
Aerosport than similar packages shipped from closer and within
the US. I'll have to check this out.
I see that some said they had small "brokerage fees". No big
deal, since it sounds like they were small.
The big confusion though is this $1500 "Customs Fee" that
Darwin mentions....what's that all about? Was that actually
a fee for going through customs? I didn't think there were
any fees other than shipping and brokerage (other than tax).
So now I'm happy that the engines would be pretty good, but
these additional fees are still making me apprehensive. I've got
a US supplier that can supply the same engine with ECI Titan
cylinders, for probably $2000 less money. The 2 catches are
that A) The original cores come from Africa and from turbocharged
planes (ss-s-s-scary), and B) They talk of roller lifters like
they are something voodoo. I thought that roller lifters were
not only a good idea, but something that was now a good and
recent product that could help my engine's longevity.
Thanks again guys, I'm getting closer.
Tim - RV-10 #170
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject:
touch screen pdas in rough air?
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
A question for those that own and are using The iPAQ and other touch screen
type PDA's;
In a discussion recently I was told that the majority of touch screen PDA
GPS system users felt that they where very difficult to use effectively in
bumpy and or rough air flight conditions.
The person making the claims was adamant that this reason among unmentioned
others was the prime reason to avoid the PDA based GPS and flight systems.
I think it has been a while since this kind of question on this subject has
been asked.
I have not as yet chosen a path on this subject and hope to get some input
pro and con re- PDA based GPS and flight data versus the mainstream portable
GPS and fight data systems.
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
From:
Ted Lumpkin <tlump51(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject:
X-COM Radio and Microair Repair
My Microair VHF 760 radio has failed after only 27 hours of operation. I'm trying
to decide if I should try to have it repaired or replace it with the new
XCOM radio which has some nice additional features.
Does anyone know of a U.S. repair station for Microair radios? I've contacted
the factory, but haven't heard back from them. Phone calls to Australia are expensive
so I'm relying on e-mails.
Also, has anyone been able to get their hands on the XCOM radio? They seem to
be back ordered everywhere. Looking at the wiring diagram I should be able to
plug it in to my existing radio connector.
Thanks,
Ted
Sweet, sweet flying (but communication challenged) RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject:
Re: Flight Planning
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
I use Airplan, http://www.razorsedgesoft.com/. Good price and works great.
Rene'
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com>
Subject:
Impressions after flying the RV10
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
While at SnF, April 2005, I got a chance to fly the RV10. What follows are a
few impressions.
(I will try to be brief and to the point).
Load = Me + Mike Seager + (RV6'er) Ken + small amount of baggage + almost
full fuel.
Space . significant as everyone has mentioned. I had sat in the mock-up and
later in the real thing (at OSH) but this was better.
Engine smooth . as expected for the 6 cylinder.
Take-off roll MUCH SHORTER than I expected (with ~ 15 degrees of flaps {my
guess})
Climb-out ~ 1500 FPM from sea level at much warmer than standard day
(Florida around noon . don't remember the temp)
Handling feels "like an RV" . appropriate for the obvious weight.
Control forces seem to be between the RV6/RV7 and the outer edges of the
RV9. ("9 Flyers" will relate to this)
Control forces are expectedly much lighter than Beechcraft A36, Cessna 210
as well as the Piper Saratoga. (I know, these are 6-place . I was thinking
speed range).
Control forces are much lighter (to me) than the Cirrus SR22 and the Lancair
Columbia 300.
No excessive trim required. Some required as expected due to size, speed and
our loading.
Handles well at slow speeds (75 MPH) and high speeds (175 MPH). Yes, it can
fly SLOWER and FASTER.
Control forces seem well balanced . no major deviations in steep turns
(other than those induced by the pilot :-) )
Nice plane. As one had come to expect from Vans.
My only comment that was not praise was "I wish someone would donate Vans a
set Bose X's . that would make the experience complete."
James
. now if I could just magically convert the Piper to a 10 overnight ..
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com>
Subject:
Re: touch screen pdas in rough air?
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
AWM running on iPAQ works for me. Bit harder in rough air but not impossible.
My Terra radio with the speed sensitive knobs is more of a problem than the PDA
in turbulence. Having PDA mounted on the top right longeron helps since I
can steady my fore arm on it while using wrist action to tap on the screen.
This also places it close to eyeballs so I can see screen details easily. If
it were mounted on panel it would be harder to manage.
Tracy Crook
RV-4, Rotary powered.
A question for those that own and are using The iPAQ and other touch screen
type PDA's;
In a discussion recently I was told that the majority of touch screen PDA
GPS system users felt that they where very difficult to use effectively in
bumpy and or rough air flight conditions.
The person making the claims was adamant that this reason among unmentioned
others was the prime reason to avoid the PDA based GPS and flight systems.
I think it has been a while since this kind of question on this subject has
been asked.
I have not as yet chosen a path on this subject and hope to get some input
pro and con re- PDA based GPS and flight data versus the mainstream portable
GPS and fight data systems.
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Todd Bartrim" <haywire(at)telus.net>
Subject:
X-COM Radio and Microair Repair
Date:
Apr 18, 2005
Hi Ted;
I have an X-com radio & MicroAir x-ponder. The X-com is a nice little unit
and so far I'm pleased with it. This winter I did have a couple of problems
with the MicroAir, but they were resolved with excellent customer support.
First I found that the backlight was intermittent as if a faulty switch,
then a few days later the unit wouldn't turn on at all. I'd e-mailed them
and didn't get an immediate response so I phoned them. Long distance is
cheap these days, but you need to call during their business hours (go to
www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/ to check for Brisbane).
When I called, the secretary said the service guy was at lunch but she
would have him call me (yeah right, I figured). Twenty minutes later he did
and asked if I had any electronics experience and tools at hand. So he
talked to me while I disassembled the unit and led me to de-solder a certain
transistor that was used as part of the hibernation circuitry, but in some
cases would make the unit too "sleepy" and wouldn't wake up. Reassembled the
unit and it worked again. Unfortunately however, the backlight was still
intermittent. As this wasn't a known problem, he had no self-repair fix for
it and instead promised to send me a new front display plate. 30 minutes
after I got off the phone with him he called me back with the courier
shipping # and said it was on it's way. 4 days later I had it in my hands
here in Canada and it only took minutes to install it. I then returned the
faulty faceplate in their shipping box using parcel post (cheapest... they
said they weren't in any hurry for the return)
The whole issue was resolved in less than a week and cost me ~$2 for the
phone call & $6 for return shipping. I've dealt with very few companies here
in North America that gave me that kind of service.
About a week later I received an e-mail from a different service guy in
response to my original e-mail request. I really prefer to use e-mail myself
for most things, but the sheer amount of spam and other abuse of the
internet has severely impacted on the usefulness of e-mail as a
communications tool. A company such as MicroAir that has their e-mail
address plastered all over the web will receive untold amounts of spam
making an aggressive spam filter a necessity. Unfortunately this results in
some legitimate e-mails not getting through the filters resulting in unhappy
customers and there will still be volumes of spam that will still get by
even the best filters, so even if your e-mail got through it may be buried.
A large company (such as Aircraft $pruce)has people whose job it is to sort
through this stuff and answer e-mails. MicroAir is not that big and service
techs likely have to go through e-mail between jobs in the shop. Sometimes
it's better to just pickup the phone.
Hope this helps
Todd Bartrim (satisfied MicroAir customer)
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
My Microair VHF 760 radio has failed after only 27 hours of operation. I'm
trying to decide if I should try to have it repaired or replace it with the
new XCOM radio which has some nice additional features.
Does anyone know of a U.S. repair station for Microair radios? I've
contacted the factory, but haven't heard back from them. Phone calls to
Australia are expensive so I'm relying on e-mails.
Also, has anyone been able to get their hands on the XCOM radio? They seem
to be back ordered everywhere. Looking at the wiring diagram I should be
able to plug it in to my existing radio connector.
Thanks,
Ted
Sweet, sweet flying (but communication challenged) RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject:
RV-7 N3XG Flys High
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
Larry,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: ,
>Subject: RV-List: RV-7 N3XG Flys High
>Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 20:20:46 -0500
>
>
>Pie ChartsToday another new RV-7 left the earthly bound of gravity for the
>first time.
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Larry Martin" <lrm(at)isp.com>
Subject:
Subaru Engine Package for sale
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
I have a complete Subaru EJ 2.5 engine package for sale, details can be seen at www.angelfire.com/un/ch701/forsale.html.
Larry, N1345L www.angelfire.com/un/ch701
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
Subject:
Re: touch screen pdas in rough air?
In a message dated 4/18/2005 7:06:35 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
jjewell(at)telus.net writes:
A question for those that own and are using The iPAQ and other touch screen
type PDA's;
In a discussion recently I was told that the majority of touch screen PDA
GPS system users felt that they where very difficult to use effectively in
bumpy and or rough air flight conditions.
I have been flying with AWM and an "older" iPaq for several years. I really
like the AWM for many reasons - but to answer your question, yes, it can
be rough to tap the screen in rough air but I have not found it to be a big
issue.
Having said that, the other alternative is a bigger screen. The good folks
at AWM now have a "jumbo" touch screen PDA called "Raven" with should make
the find & tap easier. The back-order is pretty lengthy and mine is on
order so I can't give 1st had experiences, but the preliminary reports are good.
Kim
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Piavis" <piavis(at)pacbell.net>
Subject:
.DWG and .DXF TurboCAD Instruments
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
I've looked all over and can't find any instrument templates for TurboCAD.
Does anyone have the instrument drawings in .dwg or .dxf? I've found the
instrument panel, just need good instrument drawings.
Jim
-7 Fuse
Mountain View, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
From:
Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject:
Mag Drive Gear
Today's crayon-level question:
I'm installing the drive gear on a Slick 4371 impulse coupled magneto. When
trying to tighten the nut, the shaft and the inards of the coupling spin.
Despite holding the gear still, everything else is rotating, making it
impossible to get the required torque on the nut. What's the trick?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Ross S" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: VM1000 Fuel flow transducer mounting
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
The recommendation to mount the flow transducer after the engine driven fuel
pump is a CYA type instruction. Flow is flow and the instrument will read
the same anywhere between the fuel tank and the flow divider. It however is
always better to mount any resistance (filter, gascolator,transducers) after
the pump as they drop the pressure and could help to cause cavitation.
I however only have the airflow performance fuel filter in line without a
gascolator so I went ahead and mounted it in the long strait run along the
floor between the boost pump and firewall. This kept the sensor out of harms
way and reduced the number of hoses needed fwf. Works great. The totalizer
is always right on at fillup.
-Ross
Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 Driver
www.experimentalair.com
>From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: VM1000 Fuel flow transducer mounting
>Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 17:57:46 -0500
>
>
>I mounted mine just downstream of the gasolator (RV8) . . . I would
>think flow would need to be down stream of the engine driven pump?
>
>I'm using ACS and EI furnished the flow sensor?
>
>Good Luck,
>Bob
>RV-8 - N678RC
>
>
>On 4/16/05, dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com wrote:
> >
> > Can anyone help with where they mounted their VM1000 Fuel Flow
>transducer? We are building an RV-6, with a Lycoming O-360-AIA engine.
>The instructions say to mount level, between the engine driven fuel pump
>and the carb, and allow at least 5" minimum straight length between. How
>does one do that?
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject:
Re: touch screen pdas in rough air?
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
I use a Palm Zire 71 with Flybynav to figure distance and the AOPA directory
for airport info and it works great. I use a Fujitsu ltp-600 for WXworx
weather and it works good as well. I have tried the AWM with the weather
function and it seem to overload the processor, plus most of the really cool
features of XM were not available. Of all the in-cockpit weather solutions
I have seen WXworx on wings is by far the best!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: touch screen pdas in rough air?
>
>
> In a message dated 4/18/2005 7:06:35 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> jjewell(at)telus.net writes:
>
> A question for those that own and are using The iPAQ and other touch
> screen
> type PDA's;
>
> In a discussion recently I was told that the majority of touch screen PDA
> GPS system users felt that they where very difficult to use effectively
> in
> bumpy and or rough air flight conditions.
>
>
> I have been flying with AWM and an "older" iPaq for several years. I
> really
> like the AWM for many reasons - but to answer your question, yes, it
> can
> be rough to tap the screen in rough air but I have not found it to be a
> big
> issue.
>
> Having said that, the other alternative is a bigger screen. The good
> folks
> at AWM now have a "jumbo" touch screen PDA called "Raven" with should
> make
> the find & tap easier. The back-order is pretty lengthy and mine is on
> order so I can't give 1st had experiences, but the preliminary reports
> are good.
>
> Kim
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
From:
SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: EAA Airventure Cup Race
Eric White
More on the EAA Airventure Cup Race...
First... in answer to Tracy Crook's questions about insurance -my experience has
been the same as John Huft and Alan Kritzman -who commented already. Last year
Avemco took three tries to get it right (they kept trying to change EAA's required
wording just 'slightly' -in their favor and EAA wouldn't buy it) -but
they finally got it done -and there was no extra charge as I recall. I only kept
the 'race' coverage in effect 'till I got back from OSH -then I called and
had them change it back to 'normal'. This year I'm with AIG -and I specifically
asked about the race requirements when I went with them -they said 'no problem'
-so we'll see...
It would be so cool to have you show up for the race, Tracy -I'm not sure which
class you be grouped into -but it would be so neat to have your blazingly fast
Mazda RV-4 in the race with us (even if you did kick my butt and deny me a trophy...)
More correspondance from race director Eric White follows...
Best Regards, and come race with us!
-Scott Spencer
Race 74 N4ZW
(a stock 150hp RV-4 w/ wood prop -first place in class 2003... so anyone can win
theoretically...)
Hi Scott,
Thanks for the help. Hopefully we will get a few more entries.
Although, to qualify for the Formula RV class, you need to have a "stock" RV,
although sort of hard to define stock in a homebuilt airplane. Engines
are limited to 360 cubic inches, so anyone running the new IO-390 will
have to run in the Sport Class for this year. (We might modify the rules
in the future) I am planning to split the RV class into the Red and
Blue divisions this year. Last year it got left out. Red for the O-320
powered RVs and the Blue for the 360 powered airplanes. If anyone has an
RV-9/9A with the O-235 in it, (Like Van's Prototype they can run in the
Sprint class).
One new addition this year, the race has been asked to hold
"mini-forums" at the race tent to describe the mods, or overall race experience.
I
have heard from several of the RV drivers and they have indicated that
they would like to do a group discussion "Cross Country Racing in your
RV" If you would like to take part we need a RV-4 pilot. I would like
to recruit Bobbie as well.
I will keep you posted on changes as they happen.
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
From:
Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org>
Subject:
Re: .DWG and .DXF TurboCAD Instruments
Jim,
I have some TurboCAD instrument templates, mostly for 2 1/2 and 3/1/4
gages (at least the ones in my panel). Also have a few rectangular
things (hobbs, CO monitor, etc.), and switches. They are a combination
of drawings from other builder's web sites, and ones I have created from
manufacturers drawings. Contact me off the list and let me know what
you are looking for. I can extract them from my panel print and send
them directly to you.
Steve Allison
RV-6A - future N9806A
San Jose, CA
Piavis wrote:
>
>I've looked all over and can't find any instrument templates for TurboCAD.
>Does anyone have the instrument drawings in .dwg or .dxf? I've found the
>instrument panel, just need good instrument drawings.
>
>Jim
>-7 Fuse
>Mountain View, CA
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject:
XM2GO
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
Just a review on the relatively new xm2go, the portable xm receiver. I flew down
to snf from Chicago with the antenna sticking to my rollover bar and the rcvr
between the seats. It worked GREAT!! I plugged it directly into my stereo
via a front panel mini plug. I talked to the xm guys and they told me the music
is included if you purchase their weather package.
That leads me to a question. Is anyone using xm weather by itself with a pda?
The price of anywhere map is too high.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
From:
<gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: touch screen pdas in rough air?
>"In a discussion recently I was told that the majority of touch screen PDA
GPS system users felt that they where very difficult to use effectively in
bumpy and or rough air flight conditions."
I have used both PDA and dedicated GPS units like the Garmin 195. I like a dedicated
buttons on the Garmin GPS. The touch screen is a little bit of a hassle
especially if you have to use a stylus.
TOUCH SCREEN: In turbulence, ease of screen touch depends on how you mount you
PDA GPS. Mount it close and place it so you can rest your hand or arm. If you
have it bolted to the inst panel at arms length, yes, it can be hard to select
functions in the bumps. Most PDA GPS software have a rough air mode the expands
the menu keys, to make it easier to see and pick. Also you can use some of
the buttons on the PDA to select functions. If the PDA is mounted on the side,
off the panel, you can rest your arm or hand on the arm rest or side longeron,
it is not a big issue.
I would say the discreet buttons on the stand alone GPS units are easier to operate
than the touch screen of a PDA IMHO, especially when you know the tricks
of the buttons. My old Garmin 195 has a 4 position rocker that makes moving the
screen cursor easy.
Cheers George
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject:
Air Box
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
Like many of you I had to replace my air box mounting plate at 370hrs. It
looks like it was cracked for some time. I replaced it but think I will lay
up one out of composite since it acts more like wood to dampen out
vibration. Anyone have experience with this?
John Furey
RV6A O-320 C/S
________________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
> Like many of you I had to replace my air box mounting plate
> at 370hrs. It looks like it was cracked for some time. I
> replaced it but think I will lay up one out of composite
> since it acts more like wood to dampen out vibration. Anyone
> have experience with this?
>
> John Furey
> RV6A O-320 C/S
I doubt if it is vibration, probably engine movements. Round up all the
edges, including where it fastens to its mounting plate or bracket.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 609 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net>
Subject:
Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
Adding fuel gages this weekend before installing the wings on my 9A quickbuild
I found that the fuel pickup tubes, as they came from the factory, were bent
incorrectly and were about 3" above where called for in the plans if all the fuel
in the tanks were to be available. Since this could be a safety of flight
issue I thought I'd better mention it.
No doubt if you are diligent in checking everything versus the plans this would
be caught, but it isn't inconceivable that one could assume the parts were completed
accurately and remain unaware of the situation until running out of gas
thinking they still had fuel remaining.
Also, what do people think about a slotted tube vs. a screen on the fuel pickup?
Is one better than the other in the event of particulate matter somehow getting
into the tanks?
Mike Holland
Dana Point, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
From:
Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: X-COM Radio and Microair Repair
Ted,
What exactly is wrong with your radio?
Ted Lumpkin wrote:
>
>My Microair VHF 760 radio has failed after only 27 hours of operation. I'm trying
to decide if I should try to have it repaired or replace it with the new
XCOM radio which has some nice additional features.
>Does anyone know of a U.S. repair station for Microair radios? I've contacted
the factory, but haven't heard back from them. Phone calls to Australia are
expensive so I'm relying on e-mails.
>Also, has anyone been able to get their hands on the XCOM radio? They seem to
be back ordered everywhere. Looking at the wiring diagram I should be able to
plug it in to my existing radio connector.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ted
>Sweet, sweet flying (but communication challenged) RV-4
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 19, 2005
From:
Ted Lumpkin <tlump51(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: X-COM Radio and Microair Repair
Scott,
My radio just stopped working completely. No display, no static, no transmit/receive
light. The back-light does still work.
I just got off the phone with Microair and their tech rep, Ian, feels it is probably
a fuse. He is sending me a service bulletin that will show me how to replace
it. I will try that and let the list know if it worked.
By the way, I have an avionics master switch and am pretty religious about turning
it off during engine start and shut down.
Ted
Scott VanArtsdalen wrote:
Ted,
What exactly is wrong with your radio?
Ted Lumpkin wrote:
>
>My Microair VHF 760 radio has failed after only 27 hours of operation. I'm trying
to decide if I should try to have it repaired or replace it with the new XCOM
radio which has some nice additional features.
>Does anyone know of a U.S. repair station for Microair radios? I've contacted
the factory, but haven't heard back from them. Phone calls to Australia are expensive
so I'm relying on e-mails.
>Also, has anyone been able to get their hands on the XCOM radio? They seem to
be back ordered everywhere. Looking at the wiring diagram I should be able to
plug it in to my existing radio connector.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ted
>Sweet, sweet flying (but communication challenged) RV-4
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
Subject:
Re: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup
In a message dated 4/19/05 9:54:23 PM Central Daylight Time,
hollandm(at)pacbell.net writes:
> Also, what do people think about a slotted tube vs. a screen on the fuel
> pickup? Is one better than the other in the event of particulate matter
> somehow getting into the tanks?
>>>>
I'd fer sure go with a couple of finger strainers- not that a bunch of RVs
aren't happily running with the slots, but keeping as much potential crud out of
as much of the fuel system as possible couldn't be a bad idea. Disconnecting
a fuel line at annual and blowing the pickup tube out to clear any stuff on
it is easy to do...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/fingstrainers.php
from Spruce could likely be adapted, and Vans has a complete pickup tube with
integral strainer for $12.50 (go to on-line catalog and search for "finger"
or try this):
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1114000613-232-603&
browse=airframe&product=fuel-pickup
Being "cheap", I made my own strainers by plugging the end of the pickup
tube, drilling four holes on each side of the bottom of it, then wrapping screen
liberated from a frying pan splatter guard around the tube and securing with a
couple of Oetiker clamps (foto sent off-list). Has worked well so far, but
the commercial finger strainers would be much easier...
Also- good thing ya checked the pickup tube position and thanks for the
heads-up!
From The Possumworks in TN
Mark Phillips - N51PW 175 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net>
Subject:
Re: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
Mike and Others
I was less than pleased with the results obtained in fabricating my slotted
fuel pickup tubes, so I ordered Van's standard units.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup
>
> Adding fuel gages this weekend before installing the wings on my 9A
quickbuild I found that the fuel pickup tubes, as they came from the
factory, were bent incorrectly and were about 3" above where called for in
the plans if all the fuel in the tanks were to be available. Since this
could be a safety of flight issue I thought I'd better mention it.
>
> No doubt if you are diligent in checking everything versus the plans this
would be caught, but it isn't inconceivable that one could assume the parts
were completed accurately and remain unaware of the situation until running
out of gas thinking they still had fuel remaining.
>
> Also, what do people think about a slotted tube vs. a screen on the fuel
pickup? Is one better than the other in the event of particulate matter
somehow getting into the tanks?
>
> Mike Holland
> Dana Point, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
From:
rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net>
Subject:
Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket
During our next building session this weekend we'll install the
engine. We'd like to install the MaCaully governor before we hang the
engine and they recommend using Dow Corning #7 on the gasket. I assume
this for easy release in case, 100's of hours down the road, the gov.
needs to be removed. We can't find any DC #7 locally. Is there a good
substitute that would be easlily available in small town America?
Bob Skinner
--
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
From:
Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket
Any silicone dielectric grease will do. You may want to check your
local auto parts store for AGS Sil-Glyde Dielectric Spark Plug
Protector.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
On 4/20/05, rv6fly wrote:
>
> During our next building session this weekend we'll install the
> engine. We'd like to install the MaCaully governor before we hang the
> engine and they recommend using Dow Corning #7 on the gasket. I assume
> this for easy release in case, 100's of hours down the road, the gov.
> needs to be removed. We can't find any DC #7 locally. Is there a good
> substitute that would be easlily available in small town America?
>
> Bob Skinner
>
> --
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject:
Re: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
Also, what do people think about a slotted tube vs. a screen on the fuel pickup?
Is one better than the other in the event of particulate matter somehow getting
into the tanks?
Since the primary purpose of a fuel system is to deliver fuel, it is important
that particles that might restrict flow be removed before reaching the choke point
where they could cause the restriction. As the wing tank fuel pickup is
the initial point of entry to the system, it's openings should be the coarsest
in the system. I like the slotted tube because the openings are large, numerous,
& it's simple. Unlikely to be blocked. Filters placed further downstream
should be no finer than needed to remove particles too large to pass through
the parts of the system further downstream. Doing so increases the likelihood
that the filter may become blocked without gaining any material advantage.
Surface areas should be as generous as possible. The area needed is a function
not only of how large the particles encountered are but how long the filter
has to operate between inspections. How often can fuel pickups be inspected?
A finger screen with a mesh about as coarse as the slots in the pickup tube and
a surface area to match would work just as well as the slotted tube but would
introduce the additional complexity of a fastener.
Just my insufferably didactic $200 worth.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
From:
sportav8r(at)aol.com
Subject:
Re: Air Box
I'm curious whether you guys experiencing these cracks have an airbox that contacts
the bottom of the air filter element directly, or the style I have with a
deeper bowl and a separate aluminum plate that fits inside the bottom filter
gasket to close off the bottom. I never realized there were two styles until
my campground neighbor at SnF showed my the newer style (we were discussing air
filter service difficulty and the trick of notching the back of the airbox to
allow its removal without dropping the gear leg each time, an option I don't
believe will work on my setup without interference with the filter itself.)
My installation is crack-free after 500 hours. Just curious.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex & Gerry Peterson <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Air Box
>
>
>
> Like many of you I had to replace my air box mounting plate
> at 370hrs. It looks like it was cracked for some time. I
> replaced it but think I will lay up one out of composite
> since it acts more like wood to dampen out vibration. Anyone
> have experience with this?
>
> John Furey
> RV6A O-320 C/S
I doubt if it is vibration, probably engine movements. Round up all the
edges, including where it fastens to its mounting plate or bracket.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 609 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject:
Air Box
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
Mine has the air filter held in place by a separate plate. It does not
contact the fiberglass housing. On both my RV6A's, one with O-320 and one
with O-360 I was able to remove the housing without removing the nose gear.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
From:
rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net>
Subject:
Re: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket
Bob J wrote:
>
>Any silicone dielectric grease will do. You may want to check your
>local auto parts store for AGS Sil-Glyde Dielectric Spark Plug
>Protector.
>
>Regards,
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
>
Thanks Allen and Bob. Would Dow Corning 4 work? It sure worked well on
the oil filter gasket on both my RV6 and truck.
Hi, Bob. 600+ hours. Wow. It doesn't seem like that long ago that you
were building your 6. Doesn't look like you're letting any grass grow
under your tires. The F1 is a beautiful airplane.
Bob Skinner
--
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
Subject:
Re: X-COM Radio and Microair Repair
From:
Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com>
That's pretty weird. I have a Microair 760 too and I have no avionics
switch. I leave the radio and T2000 transponder on so they power up when
the master switch is on.
I had a problem with the funny characters in the display problem. That was
an easy fix. Hopefully your fix will be just as easy. Please do keep us
updated.
> From: Ted Lumpkin <tlump51(at)sbcglobal.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2005 22:59:49 -0700 (PDT)
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: X-COM Radio and Microair Repair
>
>
> Scott,
>
> My radio just stopped working completely. No display, no static, no
> transmit/receive light. The back-light does still work.
> I just got off the phone with Microair and their tech rep, Ian, feels it is
> probably a fuse. He is sending me a service bulletin that will show me how to
> replace it. I will try that and let the list know if it worked.
> By the way, I have an avionics master switch and am pretty religious about
> turning it off during engine start and shut down.
>
> Ted
>
>
> Scott VanArtsdalen wrote:
>
> Ted,
> What exactly is wrong with your radio?
>
> Ted Lumpkin wrote:
>
>>
>> My Microair VHF 760 radio has failed after only 27 hours of operation. I'm
>> trying to decide if I should try to have it repaired or replace it with the
>> new XCOM radio which has some nice additional features.
>> Does anyone know of a U.S. repair station for Microair radios? I've contacted
>> the factory, but haven't heard back from them. Phone calls to Australia are
>> expensive so I'm relying on e-mails.
>> Also, has anyone been able to get their hands on the XCOM radio? They seem to
>> be back ordered everywhere. Looking at the wiring diagram I should be able to
>> plug it in to my existing radio connector.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Ted
>> Sweet, sweet flying (but communication challenged) RV-4
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
From:
rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net>
Subject:
Fitting cowl without having engine and prop installed
The builder I'm helping has some printed material on installation of
the cowl without installing the bulkheads, prop and spinner. I don't
know where this info came from, off the list or Van's? I think I
remember something along these lines when I built my six and helped with
a 6A but elected to install the prop and bulkheads because I felt more
certain off getting the cowl fit properly. As I've been away from
building for several years, I'm not up to speed on the latest. Does
this alternate method work OK or would you recommend mounting prop,
bulkhead and spinner?
Bob Skinner
--
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject:
Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
From:
"BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
Bob, DC4 will work just fine.
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv6fly
Subject: Re: RV-List: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket
Bob J wrote:
>
>Any silicone dielectric grease will do. You may want to check your
>local auto parts store for AGS Sil-Glyde Dielectric Spark Plug
>Protector.
>
>Regards,
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
>
Thanks Allen and Bob. Would Dow Corning 4 work? It sure worked well on
the oil filter gasket on both my RV6 and truck.
Hi, Bob. 600+ hours. Wow. It doesn't seem like that long ago that you
were building your 6. Doesn't look like you're letting any grass grow
under your tires. The F1 is a beautiful airplane.
Bob Skinner
--
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
From:
<chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Installing prop governor/DC #7 for gasket
Bob,
Go down to your local auto parts store. Ask for a tube of Permatex Dielectric
Tune-Up Grease. Everyone carries it, and it's the equivilent of the Dow #7.
Charlie Kuss
---- rv6fly wrote:
>
> During our next building session this weekend we'll install the
> engine. We'd like to install the MaCaully governor before we hang the
> engine and they recommend using Dow Corning #7 on the gasket. I assume
> this for easy release in case, 100's of hours down the road, the gov.
> needs to be removed. We can't find any DC #7 locally. Is there a good
> substitute that would be easlily available in small town America?
>
> Bob Skinner
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject:
Fitting cowl without having engine and prop installed
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
Bob,
The instructions most likely came from Van's website. I just fit my cowl
that way. It seems to work fine, but then I don't have my prop yet.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
The builder I'm helping has some printed material on installation of
the cowl without installing the bulkheads, prop and spinner. I don't
know where this info came from, off the list or Van's? I think I
remember something along these lines when I built my six and helped with
a 6A but elected to install the prop and bulkheads because I felt more
certain off getting the cowl fit properly. As I've been away from
building for several years, I'm not up to speed on the latest. Does
this alternate method work OK or would you recommend mounting prop,
bulkhead and spinner?
Bob Skinner
--
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject:
Announcing The Third Annual Rebel's Bluff FlyIn
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
From:
"Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
"RV-List Digest Server"
Subject: Announcing The Third Annual Rebel's Bluff FlyIn
"Flash"!
THIRD ANNUAL REBEL'S BLUFF FLYIN
Now that Sun n Fun is over, it's time to fly to the Third Annual
Rebel's Bluff FlyIn for Rocket's and Van's RV Aircraft on May 7th, 2005.
Come in about 10:00AM for an Ozarks Style Bar-B-Que lunch with all the
fixin's (catered by the First Baptist Ladies Group), and some great
comaradrie.
Rebel's Bluff (N37 06.1 W93 52.2) is located two miles north of Mt
Vernon Municipal Airport (2MO), and just west of Mt Vernon, Missouri.
About 150 miles SSE of Kansas City, MO, and 140 east of Tulsa, OK. The
runway 14/32 is 2,200' of very smooth sod by 60' wide. Use 122.9 (Mt
Vernon's) UNICOM frequency and announce "landing at Rebel's Bluff." AV
Gas 100LL will be available for approximately $2.50/gallon.
Rain date is May 14th if it is a complete washout. RSVP would be
greatly appreciated to your host Les Featherston at
lwfeatherston(at)aol.com or call 417-466-4663 at home, or 417-425-3595
cell. Overnighters can stay at the Super 8 for $53, or camping by the
creek (with flush toilet) is available. Looking forward to seeing all
of you again. Les
************************************************************************
************************************************************************
******
Les has a gorgeous Harmon. Pics on my pireps page if you're interested.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Pilot%20reports.html
I plan to go to the flyin. I've been to Les's flyin previously and it
was very nice. If anyone wants more info and can't reach Les, feel free
to call me... 812-464-1839 M-F
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
From:
Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject:
Re: Air Box
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on opie.wvnet.edu
>Like many of you I had to replace my air box mounting plate at 370hrs. It
>looks like it was cracked for some time.
I replaced mine at 150 hours. I think the cracks have a lot to do with how
tight the cowl is mounted to the airbox. A tight fitting gives the highest
manifold pressure increase, but then is subject to the increase in
vibration between the engine and the cowl (the cowl does not vibrate as
much as the engine, nor at the same frequency). Also I suspect that high G
maneuvers (4+) would cause more cracking. At 4 Gs you can see the spinner
(meaning engine) drop in reference to the top of the cowl.
My fix was to replace the plate with a much thicker plate and to insure
extra space between the cowl inlet and the airbox. Time will tell if this
works.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net>
Subject:
Re: Static System Connections
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
Hi, Charlie. Your experience was same as mine - hot water. . . split 4 days
later.
There must of have been a materials change somewhere along the line - those
with good enuf mat'l (older kits) had no problem and are mystified by my
post.
But split tubing is split tubing - so it's "not optimum" to continue with
the "procedure" that no longer works when real fittings are so readily
available and cheap and work so well.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static System Connections
>
> I'm with David,
> I purchased the Vans static kit and installed it. By heating the 1/4"
> plastic tubing in boiling water, with effort, I was able to get the
plastic
> tubing on the Tee fitting. Four days later, that cheap (import stuff, NOT
> real Imperial Eastman Nyloflow) tubing split. I ripped it all out. I
> replaced it with genuine Nyloflow tubing and fittings similar to what
David
> describes. I purchased the tubing and fittings from ACS.
> I've also gotten the "you are the only one who has ever complained"
> routine from Vans. Each time, it was in reference to a problem which was
> widely reported on the RV List. I've found that Van's Dutch genes
> occasionally do us a dis-service. The static kit and capacitance fuel
> sender kit are two examples of this. I'm not a disgruntled customer. On
the
> whole, the RV kits are still the best "bang for the buck", in my opinion.
> You just have to side step the occasional "pot hole" in the road. :-)
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >
> >This Van's "method" has to be the most ignorant thing about the entire
kit -
> >totally unacceptable to do it their way. I went to a local "fittings"
shop
> >(brass & plastic) and bought standard, cheap Ts with the screw on caps
that
> >you just stick the tubing into and then tighten the caps. Totally
> >professional, totally secure, totally better than forcing the one size
> >tubing onto the smaller (but not small enough) tubing and then having the
> >ends split by a week later. They claim "they never heard of that one
> >before". Yeah, sure, I'm the ONLY ONE who had the tubing split.
> >
> >David
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
From:
gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Fitting cowl without having engine and prop installed
I am about to embark on the same road,
can anybody who employed Van's article without having the prop give some
good/bad/indifferent remarks when they did finally hang the prop???
more gap/less gap?? etc.
move up or down a bit??
Thanks
Gert
Terry Watson wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>The instructions most likely came from Van's website. I just fit my cowl
>that way. It seems to work fine, but then I don't have my prop yet.
>
>Terry
>RV-8A finishing
>Seattle
>
>
> The builder I'm helping has some printed material on installation of
>the cowl without installing the bulkheads, prop and spinner. I don't
>know where this info came from, off the list or Van's? I think I
>remember something along these lines when I built my six and helped with
>a 6A but elected to install the prop and bulkheads because I felt more
>certain off getting the cowl fit properly. As I've been away from
>building for several years, I'm not up to speed on the latest. Does
>this alternate method work OK or would you recommend mounting prop,
>bulkhead and spinner?
>
>Bob Skinner
>
>
>--
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
From:
sportav8r(at)aol.com
Subject:
Re: Air Box
I trust you mean removal by way of molding a recessed notch into the back of the
airbox, for the gear leg to fit into as the box is lowered for removal... I've
looked at the geometry of this on my plane, and for the life of me it doesn;t
seem as if there's room for such a notch without interfering with the filter
itself. Maybe I'm just 3-D visualization-challenged!
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: John Furey <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Air Box
Mine has the air filter held in place by a separate plate. It does not
contact the fiberglass housing. On both my RV6A's, one with O-320 and one
with O-360 I was able to remove the housing without removing the nose gear.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject:
wheel pants bracket
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
Can anyone tell me where to get stainless steel wheel pant brackets for my
RV6A main gears?
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject:
Air Box
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
Yes, The O-360 needed an indentation in the air box. I just heated the
fiberglass and pushed a round pipe into it until it cooled. The O-320 did
not need this.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
RGray67968(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
Subject:
Re: wheel pants bracket
Yo' Crossfire,
Attaway Air has them.
Scroll about half way down the page....90 buckaroos.
http://www.attawayair.com/
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/index.html
For the archives
Can anyone tell me where to get stainless steel wheel pant brackets for my
RV6A main gears?
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
From:
rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net>
Subject:
Re: Fitting cowl without having engine and prop installed
Terry Watson wrote:
>Bob,
>
>The instructions most likely came from Van's website. I just fit my cowl
>that way. It seems to work fine, but then I don't have my prop yet.
>
>Terry
>RV-8A finishing
>Seattle
>
Thanks, Terry. I'm kind of embarassed. I hadn't checked Van's website
in 5 or 6 years. They have lots of building info there. Quite an
improvement from the "old days". The instructions make sense. I'd
still like to hear from builders who have got their props and spinners
fitted and say that everything worked out OK. I know, if the prop &
spinner is on that the cowl can be made to fit. I'm still a bit nervous
about this other method.
Thanks, Bob Skinner
--
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 20, 2005
From:
Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Caution: Quickbuild Wingtank Fuel Pickup
Mike,
I favor Vans prefabricated pick up tubes with screens. The total surface
area of the screening, far exceeds the surface area of the bare tube.
Therefore, it should take more debris to restrict the screened units.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Adding fuel gages this weekend before installing the wings on my 9A
>quickbuild I found that the fuel pickup tubes, as they came from the
>factory, were bent incorrectly and were about 3" above where called for in
>the plans if all the fuel in the tanks were to be available. Since this
>could be a safety of flight issue I thought I'd better mention it.
>
>No doubt if you are diligent in checking everything versus the plans this
>would be caught, but it isn't inconceivable that one could assume the
>parts were completed accurately and remain unaware of the situation until
>running out of gas thinking they still had fuel remaining.
>
>Also, what do people think about a slotted tube vs. a screen on the fuel
>pickup? Is one better than the other in the event of particulate matter
>somehow getting into the tanks?
>
>Mike Holland
>Dana Point, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject:
Re: wheel pants bracket
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
John, Got them for mine from attawayair.com.....easy to install with no
modifications. If you need a set while waiting for your order my never
installed aluminum are available for FREE.
Tom in Ohio (10G)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RV-List: wheel pants bracket
>
> Can anyone tell me where to get stainless steel wheel pant brackets for my
> RV6A main gears?
>
> Thanks
> John
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject:
wheel pants bracket
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
Thanks for the generous offer Tom. I put a patch on the old one that should
hold for quite a while. How is the plane coming?
jf
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject:
wheel pants bracket
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
Thanks Rick, My plane is falling apart. I thought helicopters were high
maintance... while I had the cowl off I did a comp check, new plugs, fix the
air box, patched fairing bracket, etc. should make the annual a snap in
June. Hope to have it ready to fly tonight.
jf
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject:
RV vs Rocket
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
From:
"Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
SNIP People can say what they want
about how great an RV flies, that is until they experience a rocket.
Its not just about the horsepower. They fly as beautifully as they
look.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
SNIP
Bob is right. Man, I LOVED my RV-4. It ruined me from ever being happy
in any production plane that I ever flew afterwards.
But what about the Rocket? Well, I still like to fly RVs, but given a
choice..... the Rocket wins.
Let me explain: Flying RVs is like spending the night with Jennifer
Aniston. Flying the Rocket is like spending the night with Jennifer
Aniston, Cindy Crawford, Sandra Bullock, and 12 Victoria's Secret
models... and they're fighting over who gets you next.
Vince
F-1H Rocket, N540VF
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
From:
sportav8r(at)aol.com
Subject:
Re: Air Box
I'll give that a try next time I'm uncowled. Using this modification, does the
nose gear leg fairing have to be removed for clearance when removing the airbox?
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: John Furey <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Air Box
Yes, The O-360 needed an indentation in the air box. I just heated the
fiberglass and pushed a round pipe into it until it cooled. The O-320 did
not need this.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
PILOT8127(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
Subject:
Re: RV vs Rocket
I gotta get me a F-1 rocket!
Talk about girls.............................
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject:
Experimental O360 for sale
From:
"Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com>
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
I have a new Penn Yan XE 360 with Slick Mags, forward cold air induction, and
Precision fuel injection for sale. On pallet as delivered to me $20K. Please
reply personally to me at abqmooney(at)excite.com if interested for more details.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
From:
rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net>
Subject:
oil cooling methods
My friend's (Larry), 6A has a firewall mounted oil cooler. I imagine
the standard source of cool air for the cooler would be SCAT tubing from
the baffle behind cylinder #4. Years ago while helping with another 6A
I toyed with the idea of taking the cooling air from a NACA vent on the
left side of the cowl with the idea of keeping all of the air coming in
the cowl inlet for cylinder cooling instead of bleeding off air behind
#4 for the oil cooler. The downside would be having to undo a clamp
before being able to drop the bottom cowl.
As a lot of my RV knowledge is not up to date, I thought I'd check
current thingking on this.
Also, what's the latest on mechanical fuel pump cooling and alternator
cooling both of which I did when I built my 6.
Bob Skinner
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject:
Closing VS and HS tips
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
Although the instructions say it's OK to leave the vertical stabilizer and horizontal
stabilizer tips open, I'm wondering if anyone who stores their airplane
outside on a tie-down as I plan to do has wished they closed the tips for any
reason. Water entry and critter nests come to mind.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
From:
"Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject:
Fw: I have a Sky-Tec starter for sale
If anyone needs a starter.......IIRC it's from an O360....
-----Forwarded Message-----
From: James Redmon <james(at)berkut13.com>
Subject: I have a Sky-Tec starter for sale
I have a starter in need of a good home if you know someone that might need
it. Fresh from the factory - 0-time.
Ebay item number: 4544864662
Please post on the RV groups lists if you feel that they might benefit too.
Thanks,
James Redmon
Berkut #013 N97TX
http://www.berkut13.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
From:
Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject:
Re: RV vs Rocket
> ... My answer was an RV-8 with a 300 HP rotary with the
> wings extended 1 foot on each side and RV-7/Rocket wingtips. ...
Sounds very interesting. Did you do anything to beef up the
spar, or are you planning on reducing the aerobatic limits?
What's the difference between the RV7 wingtips and the RV8
wingtips?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject:
Re: Fw: I have a Sky-Tec starter for sale
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
Why aren't you using it? I remember reading once that Skytec starters and
Lightspeed Electronic ignition systems had compatibility problems. I don't
remember why this was the case or if the problem was or is easily resolved.
Anybody have a Skytec and a Lightspeed who can attest to its performance?
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: I have a Sky-Tec starter for sale
>
> If anyone needs a starter.......IIRC it's from an O360....
>
> -----Forwarded Message-----
> From: James Redmon <james(at)berkut13.com>
> To: "Ralph E. Capen"
> Subject: I have a Sky-Tec starter for sale
>
> I have a starter in need of a good home if you know someone that might
> need
> it. Fresh from the factory - 0-time.
>
> Ebay item number: 4544864662
>
> Please post on the RV groups lists if you feel that they might benefit
> too.
>
> Thanks,
>
> James Redmon
> Berkut #013 N97TX
> http://www.berkut13.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: oil cooling methods
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
O-320's seem to cool just fine with the any oil cooler/mounting location.
Its the IO-360's that seem to cause the most problems. I should know, I've
been working on mine a lot. I have a 10 row behind #4 and it still has a
tough time keeping up. I had a 7 row on the firewall that didnt work. In
hind sight, I would have done the naca duct right from the start but you
never know if you're going to have trouble until your flying.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "rv6fly" <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net>
Subject: RV-List: oil cooling methods
>
> My friend's (Larry), 6A has a firewall mounted oil cooler. I imagine
> the standard source of cool air for the cooler would be SCAT tubing from
> the baffle behind cylinder #4. Years ago while helping with another 6A
> I toyed with the idea of taking the cooling air from a NACA vent on the
> left side of the cowl with the idea of keeping all of the air coming in
> the cowl inlet for cylinder cooling instead of bleeding off air behind
> #4 for the oil cooler. The downside would be having to undo a clamp
> before being able to drop the bottom cowl.
> As a lot of my RV knowledge is not up to date, I thought I'd check
> current thingking on this.
> Also, what's the latest on mechanical fuel pump cooling and alternator
> cooling both of which I did when I built my 6.
>
> Bob Skinner
>
>
> --
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
Subject:
Lightening Holes on the Vertical Stab Spar, HS rivet opinions?
Hi all,
I am starting work on the vertical stab spar. They describe "optional"
lightening holes in the spar reinforcing piece. It doesn't look to me like this
would be a significant weight savings, although it is at the end of a very
long moment arm. What are most people doing with this?
I am awaiting an inspection by my friend EAA tech counselor this weekend to
look at my horizontal stabilizer. It is almost perfect except for a couple
of small issues. There are a few small scratches in the primer from bucking
rivets. Do most of you go back and touch those up? I have one rivet that is
just slightly proud. I am unsure if taking it out will improve things or
make them worse. Will see what the tech counselor thinks.
The one I am most worried about is a rivet that holds the front inner rib to
the from spar reinforcement. My first rivet got bent going in. I drilled
it out from the wrong side (shop head) and got a little way into the spar
reinforcement bar. I re-riveted it with the same -4 rivet. You can see a small
defect from my over drilling. I was considering the following options:
1. Leave it--put in some primer around it.
2. Drill it out and go with a larger size rivet
3. Drill it out and put in a small 3/16 bolt.
Since the hole only goes about 1/3 of the thickness of the spar
reinforcement, I thought it might be okay to leave. I will see what the tech
counselor
thinks. Opinions here?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV8 Empennage
San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: oil cooling methods
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
Another issue seems to be engine time. The oil temperatures on my 0-320
were higher than I wanted for the first 150 hours, but there was a definite
decrease over time. Some of the decrease is attributable to modifications I
made, but I'd wager that a meaningful amount of the decrease was because the
engine finally broke itself in completely.
Just a theory, mind you...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: oil cooling methods
>
>
> O-320's seem to cool just fine with the any oil cooler/mounting location.
> Its the IO-360's that seem to cause the most problems. I should know,
> I've
> been working on mine a lot. I have a 10 row behind #4 and it still has a
> tough time keeping up. I had a 7 row on the firewall that didnt work. In
> hind sight, I would have done the naca duct right from the start but you
> never know if you're going to have trouble until your flying.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 165 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject:
Re: Fw: I have a Sky-Tec starter for sale
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
> Why aren't you using it? I remember reading once that Skytec starters
and
> Lightspeed Electronic ignition systems had compatibility problems. I
don't
> remember why this was the case or if the problem was or is easily
resolved.
I believe Sky-Tec is/was worried about kickbacks being caused by electronic
ignition systems at lower voltages. i.e. (and I'm pushing my knowledge
envelope here, so correct me if I'm wrong) the possibility exists that while
cranking, the voltage to the EI would drop, and the EI might go nuts and
spark at an inopportune time, causing a kickback.
> Anybody have a Skytec and a Lightspeed who can attest to its performance?
I have both. Sky-Tec LS flyweight starter and a Lightspeed Plasma II. The
only issue I had was with the Sky-Tec solenoid which died around 110 hours.
Not related to the EI. I've been running the same starter since with no
probs. I learned to carry a spare solenoid (thanks Birdstrike & Rosie) in
my tool kit just in case.
I'm not saying my experience counts for anything, but you asked. ;-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (457 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject:
Archer Wingtip Antenna
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
Gentlemen,
I was looking over the instructions relating to the installation of Archer
wingtip antenna. The instructions indicate that the ground plane is formed
by placing the edge of the antenna between the wing and the wingtip. This
would work fine if the wingtip fit over the wing skin BUT the RV tip fits
inside of the skin.
For those of you that have installed this type of antenna on the RV series
of aircraft, how did you mount it and how did you form the ground plane?
Vince
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
From:
<chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Lightening Holes on the Vertical Stab Spar, HS rivet
opinions?
Michael,
If you actually take the time to READ the Mil Spec on riveting (no one does) you'll
find that you are allowed 1 non conforming rivet in 10. You'll also find
that you don't have to have shop heads which are 150% of the rivet's diameter
or a shop head which has a height of 50% of the rivet's diameter. Those are the
"ideal". The shop head can be as little as 33% of the diameter high and as
little as 133% of the rivet's diameter wide.
See what your tech councilor says. I suggest you abide by what he/she says.
Charlie Kuss
---- MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am starting work on the vertical stab spar. They describe "optional"
> lightening holes in the spar reinforcing piece. It doesn't look to me like
this
> would be a significant weight savings, although it is at the end of a very
> long moment arm. What are most people doing with this?
>
> I am awaiting an inspection by my friend EAA tech counselor this weekend to
> look at my horizontal stabilizer. It is almost perfect except for a couple
> of small issues. There are a few small scratches in the primer from bucking
> rivets. Do most of you go back and touch those up? I have one rivet that is
> just slightly proud. I am unsure if taking it out will improve things or
> make them worse. Will see what the tech counselor thinks.
>
> The one I am most worried about is a rivet that holds the front inner rib to
> the from spar reinforcement. My first rivet got bent going in. I drilled
> it out from the wrong side (shop head) and got a little way into the spar
> reinforcement bar. I re-riveted it with the same -4 rivet. You can see a small
> defect from my over drilling. I was considering the following options:
> 1. Leave it--put in some primer around it.
> 2. Drill it out and go with a larger size rivet
> 3. Drill it out and put in a small 3/16 bolt.
>
> Since the hole only goes about 1/3 of the thickness of the spar
> reinforcement, I thought it might be okay to leave. I will see what the tech
counselor
> thinks. Opinions here?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV8 Empennage
> San Ramon, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject:
Re: Lightening Holes on the Vertical Stab Spar, HS rivet opinions?
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
> I am starting work on the vertical stab spar. They describe "optional"
> lightening holes in the spar reinforcing piece. It doesn't look to me
like this
> would be a significant weight savings, although it is at the end of a
very
> long moment arm. What are most people doing with this?
Do it...my 2 cents is: cut every single optional lightening hole that Van's
approves...and cut lightening holes in everything non-structural that you
add later.
A year or two down the line, when you and a fat buddy are loaded up with
full fuel and baggage, you'll wish you cut every hole you were allowed by
the designer to cut. I own one RV-7 and two completely different airplanes.
The way it feels when loaded is nothing like the way it feels when it's got
just me and 15 gallons in it. Now that the plane is done, the only thing I
can try to control is the weight of the pilot (I'm workin' on it).
Food for thought -- Van's used to ship the steel elevator horns "solid."
There wasn't even a callout for lightening holes. Now the standard issue
elevator horn has 3 lightening holes pre-cut. When I built my -7 there
wasn't even a callout for those VS spar doubler lightening holes. I would
have cut 'em in an instant. If Van's says the material is dead weight, you
can trust that it is.
The only area where I would ADD material over the plans-prescribed specs
would be on the engine baffles.
Where you can lighten, do lighten! You'll be glad you did.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
From:
"Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject:
Re: Lightening Holes on the Vertical Stab Spar, HS rivet opinions?
On 16:45:06 2005-04-21 wrote:
> If you actually take the time to READ the Mil Spec on riveting (no
> one does) you'll find that you are allowed 1 non conforming rivet in
> 10.
True, in a case where you have a row of rivets. However in this case the
builder was referring to a rib attachment to a spar, where there are only
two or three rivets (I forget which, and don't have my plans handy). In
that case, it's one out of two or one out of three, and in either case I
would be inclined to replace the bad rivet with the next size up, being
very careful to drive the new rivet cleanly... :)
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
WFACT01(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
Subject:
Re: RV vs Rocket
IVE GOT A 400HP-ITS FRONT&REAR ITS CALLED AN RV-8SP
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01(at)aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (40 PLUS HOURS)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Subject:
Re: wheel pants bracket
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
I am finishing up the engine baffles and then mount the oil cooler. There
are a couple of pieces to paint, label the panel, and then mount the wings.
The end is near!! I will be flying this summer "God willing and the creek
don't rise."
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: wheel pants bracket
>
> Thanks for the generous offer Tom. I put a patch on the old one that
> should
> hold for quite a while. How is the plane coming?
>
> jf
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject:
Re: Archer Wingtip Antenna
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
Vince,
The antenna makes contact with the airframe structure by virtue of the
nutplates and screws. The nutplates rivet to the wingtip right onto the
antenna "base," whereby the antenna is sandwiched between the wingtip and
the nutplates. When screws go through the skin and into the nutplates, the
antenna is thus connected to the airframe.
What I wondered about was what happens once the wing skin is painted...i.e.
if the screws will still make enough contact with the wing skin for this to
be functional.
So what I did on mine was to use aluminum tape to provide a direct
connection between the "inside" of the wing skin and the antenna. A picture
or three can illustrate what I'm talking about much better than words:
http://www.rvproject.com/20040322.html
Remarkably, that cheap aluminum tape I bought from Harbor Freight indeed has
enough metal in it to be an electrical conductor.
Works great on the Archer NAV antenna, although the Archer COM antenna in
the RV-7 sheared wing tip leaves a bit to be desired. There's a fair amount
of shadowing by the airframe, and barely enough room to give it vertical
polarization. YMMV
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Archer Wingtip Antenna
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I was looking over the instructions relating to the installation of Archer
> wingtip antenna. The instructions indicate that the ground plane is
formed
> by placing the edge of the antenna between the wing and the wingtip. This
> would work fine if the wingtip fit over the wing skin BUT the RV tip fits
> inside of the skin.
>
> For those of you that have installed this type of antenna on the RV series
> of aircraft, how did you mount it and how did you form the ground plane?
>
> Vince
> RV-8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject:
Air Box
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
Not on mine.
jf
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
From:
Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject:
Re: Fw: I have a Sky-Tec starter for sale
Anybody have a Skytec and a Lightspeed who can attest to its performance?
Used to have the Skytec lightweight and LSE II. The starter crapped out
last year on the way to Oshkosh. The housing was cracked and looked
like a kickback. The Skytec guy blamed the LSE and said they cause
kickbacks during to low voltage conditions. Klaus (Mr. Lightspeed) had
a different view, and explained to me in great detail (most of which is
forgotten) why his units do not do this.
The problem with the Skyweight, IMHO, is that it uses a permanent magnet
motor (lighter weight and cheaper) which by their nature draw much
higher current during starting than a starter with a wound field motor.
Combine this with a small battery (ie. Odessy, Panasonic etc. which many
of us use) which just can't keep up with the current demands, and you
have a problem. In my case, I had the triple whammy of Flyweight
starter, small battery, and wood prop (low inertia) so my plane was
never an enthusiastic starter to begin with.
The problem was solved by upgrading to a B & C starter, which is a
couple pounds heavier (you make up for it by being a couple pounds
lighter in the wallet) but uses a wound field motor. I can now get the
tail up just on starter power (well, almost.)
I was not impressed with Skytec as a company at all, expecially with the
way they blame LSE for the problems with their starter. I was able to
resolve the issue to my satisfaction, but it took a lot of arm
twisting. In fairness to Skytec, they do make a starter with a field
wound motor which I'm sure would work just fine, but these are heavier
and more expensive. Also in fairness, there are a bunch of the Skytec
lightweights out there working just fine. However, there is a
difference between a production plane with a 35A huge battery and heavy
prop, and a homebuilt with a light prop and small battery.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
From:
Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject:
Re: Archer Wingtip Antenna
Drill out a few of the wingtip attach nutplates and rivet the antenna in
between them and the wingtip. Sam has a write up about this antenna and
a picture of this:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/sportcraft.htm
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
From:
Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject:
Re: Fw: I have a Sky-Tec starter for sale
Dan is basically right. I just ordered my RV-10 Aerosport IO-540 engine
today and talked to Bart about it. He recommended getting the
HT Sky-Tec starter with my Lightspeed III ignition. I didn't follow
it perfectly, but it basically amounted to the voltage dropping when
you crank the engine. I don't think he said it caused kickbacks, but
maybe just poor starting. Anyway, I'm hoping to use a dual-bus system
and run my lightspeed on the essential bus...separated...during starting
anyway, along with an instrument or two.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>>Why aren't you using it? I remember reading once that Skytec starters
>
> and
>
>>Lightspeed Electronic ignition systems had compatibility problems. I
>
> don't
>
>>remember why this was the case or if the problem was or is easily
>
> resolved.
>
> I believe Sky-Tec is/was worried about kickbacks being caused by electronic
> ignition systems at lower voltages. i.e. (and I'm pushing my knowledge
> envelope here, so correct me if I'm wrong) the possibility exists that while
> cranking, the voltage to the EI would drop, and the EI might go nuts and
> spark at an inopportune time, causing a kickback.
>
>
>>Anybody have a Skytec and a Lightspeed who can attest to its performance?
>
>
> I have both. Sky-Tec LS flyweight starter and a Lightspeed Plasma II. The
> only issue I had was with the Sky-Tec solenoid which died around 110 hours.
> Not related to the EI. I've been running the same starter since with no
> probs. I learned to carry a spare solenoid (thanks Birdstrike & Rosie) in
> my tool kit just in case.
>
> I'm not saying my experience counts for anything, but you asked. ;-)
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (457 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Archer Wingtip Antenna
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
I believe Bob A's intent in the instructions is to rivet the antennal ground
element (the short leg) between the inside of the fiberglass tip and the nut
plates used for the attach screws that secure the tip to the wing. Ground
is provided by the screws through the metal structure to the nutplates and
ground leg of the antenna.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Archer Wingtip Antenna
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I was looking over the instructions relating to the installation of Archer
> wingtip antenna. The instructions indicate that the ground plane is
> formed
> by placing the edge of the antenna between the wing and the wingtip. This
> would work fine if the wingtip fit over the wing skin BUT the RV tip fits
> inside of the skin.
>
> For those of you that have installed this type of antenna on the RV series
> of aircraft, how did you mount it and how did you form the ground plane?
>
> Vince
> RV-8A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Archer Wingtip Antenna
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
Mine have been working fantastic the way Dick say to mount them. Note that I
have 1,655 flying hours. The installation picks up a signal before I can
hear the ID.
Had KX-125 for 3 years.
Replaced with SL-30 past 4 years.
As I said, both had nav signal before you could hear the ID.
The second Archer Nav antenna runs the Pioneer FM CD/MP3 player installed in
the panel.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,655 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Archer Wingtip Antenna
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 21:46:49 -0400
I believe Bob A's intent in the instructions is to rivet the antennal ground
element (the short leg) between the inside of the fiberglass tip and the nut
plates used for the attach screws that secure the tip to the wing. Ground
is provided by the screws through the metal structure to the nutplates and
ground leg of the antenna.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Archer Wingtip Antenna
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I was looking over the instructions relating to the installation of
Archer
> wingtip antenna. The instructions indicate that the ground plane is
> formed
> by placing the edge of the antenna between the wing and the wingtip.
This
> would work fine if the wingtip fit over the wing skin BUT the RV tip fits
> inside of the skin.
>
> For those of you that have installed this type of antenna on the RV
series
> of aircraft, how did you mount it and how did you form the ground plane?
>
> Vince
> RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 21, 2005
From:
Roger Embree <j.embree(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Edmonton RVators
I am looking for any RV builders in the Edmonton area that could provide
some assistance in the next couple of days.
I am staying at the Royal Inn Express Hotel in Spruce Grove.
780 962-6050 or Ontario cell phone number 519 217-3111
Thanks
Roger Embree
My RV-4 is sitting in Villeneuve waiting for some TLC
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
Subject:
Re: Lightening Holes on the Vertical Stab Spar, HS rivet opinions?
Hi Dan
What you say makes good sense, lighten as much as possible. So, how does one
best cut these lightening holes? Circular hole saw on a drill press?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
I have a SkyTec and Lightspeed and I ended up changing to a
wound field SkyTec and it all works fine. My opinion only but I would
use a wound field and not permanent magnet starter with the electronic
ignition. I guess in some cases the PM starter with its high inrush
current pulls the voltage down below the compliance voltage for the
electronic ignition. All works fine now.
N89erDD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: I have a Sky-Tec starter for sale
> Why aren't you using it? I remember reading once that Skytec
starters
and
> Lightspeed Electronic ignition systems had compatibility problems. I
don't
> remember why this was the case or if the problem was or is easily
resolved.
I believe Sky-Tec is/was worried about kickbacks being caused by
electronic
ignition systems at lower voltages. i.e. (and I'm pushing my knowledge
envelope here, so correct me if I'm wrong) the possibility exists that
while
cranking, the voltage to the EI would drop, and the EI might go nuts and
spark at an inopportune time, causing a kickback.
> Anybody have a Skytec and a Lightspeed who can attest to its
performance?
I have both. Sky-Tec LS flyweight starter and a Lightspeed Plasma II.
The
only issue I had was with the Sky-Tec solenoid which died around 110
hours.
Not related to the EI. I've been running the same starter since with no
probs. I learned to carry a spare solenoid (thanks Birdstrike & Rosie)
in
my tool kit just in case.
I'm not saying my experience counts for anything, but you asked. ;-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (457 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
From:
Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Lightening Holes on the Vertical Stab Spar, HS rivet opinions?
Mike,
Opinions are never in short supply and that goes triple for the good folks in our
aviation community, so here's mine. If it were my airplane, I would not hesitate
to drill the bad rivet out, clean up the hole to the next nominal diameter,
in this case with a #20 drill bit, (better yet, a #22 drill then final reamed
with a .160 or .161 reamer), then install an AD-5 rivet. The defect you
seem to be describing ..... 1/3 the thickness of the spar reinforcment sounds
to me like fertile ground for increasing the chances of a stress fracture to develop.
Personally, I would not want to dwell on nagging doubts about a known
defect I chose to ignore while bouncing around in turbulent air. One final word........there
are tech counselors and there are tech counselors. My first
tech counselor visit was with a wood and fabric guy who knew as much about sheet
metal work as I do about flying wires. The glowing form he submitted to the
EAA was all well and good but in the end, I know in
my gut
that the session was little more than a paperwork dog and pony show. Find someone
who is really experienced in sheet metal work and not just anyone who simply
qualifies as a tech counselor.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
The one I am most worried about is a rivet that holds the front inner rib to
the from spar reinforcement. My first rivet got bent going in. I drilled
it out from the wrong side (shop head) and got a little way into the spar
reinforcement bar. I re-riveted it with the same -4 rivet. You can see a small
defect from my over drilling. I was considering the following options:
1. Leave it--put in some primer around it.
2. Drill it out and go with a larger size rivet
3. Drill it out and put in a small 3/16 bolt.
Since the hole only goes about 1/3 of the thickness of the spar
reinforcement, I thought it might be okay to leave. I will see what the tech
counselor
thinks. Opinions here?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV8 Empennage
San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com>
Subject:
oil cooling methods
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
Bob,
I have a 13 bay classic mounted on the firewall, with a 3" SCAT tube from
#4 cylinder.
on my RV-6A, O-320-D1A ... I'm finding that it's not getting enough air to
sufficiently
cool the oil on hot days (OAT > 95*F). Oil temps go up to 230*F under those
conditions.
When I called the Niagara people about changing coolers, I was told that I
should have
at least a 4" SCAT tube, preferably a 6". I'm thinking that taking that much
air from the
top of the engine would introduce engine cooling issues. I'm now considering
a NACA
vent off the left lower cowl.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 375 Hrs
Time:
From: rv6fly < rv6fly(at)bresnan.net <mailto:rv6fly(at)bresnan.net> >
Subject: oil cooling methods
>
My friend's (Larry), 6A has a firewall mounted oil cooler. I
imagine
the standard source of cool air for the cooler would be SCAT tubing
from
the baffle behind cylinder #4. Years ago while helping with another
6A
I toyed with the idea of taking the cooling air from a NACA vent on
the
left side of the cowl with the idea of keeping all of the air coming
in
the cowl inlet for cylinder cooling instead of bleeding off air behind
#4 for the oil cooler. The downside would be having to undo a clamp
before being able to drop the bottom cowl.
As a lot of my RV knowledge is not up to date, I thought I'd check
current thingking on this.
Also, what's the latest on mechanical fuel pump cooling and
alternator
cooling both of which I did when I built my 6.
Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject:
Re: Lightening Holes on the Vertical Stab Spar, HS rivet opinions?
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
> Michael,
> If you actually take the time to READ the Mil Spec on riveting (no one
does) you'll find that you are >allowed 1 non conforming rivet in 10. You'll
also find that you don't have to have shop heads which >are 150% of the
rivet's diameter or a shop head which has a height of 50% of the rivet's
diameter. >Those are the "ideal". The shop head can be as little as 33% of
the diameter high and as little as 133% >of the rivet's diameter wide.
> See what your tech councilor says. I suggest you abide by what he/she
says.
Good advice!
I found it interesting that in my kit NONE of the rivets that had been
installed by Van's and most of the rivets installed by Phlogiston ( the
company that makes Van's anodized wing spars) meet the ideal definition for
rivet installation...
I shoot (pun intended) to meet the ideal with every rivet, but looking at
what was delivered by the factory gave me the confidence that deviation from
the ideal was acceptable.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
From:
Roger Embree <j.embree(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Edmonton Area Builders
I am looking for builders in the Edmonton area.
Please email or call me on my cell.
Thanks
Roger Embree
rembree(at)sympatico.ca
519 217-3111
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
Paul Parashak <paulmike(at)parashak.net>
Subject:
Re: Lightening Holes on the Vertical Stab Spar, HS rivet opinions?
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
Michael,
I borrowed a flycutter and worked it in a drill press. [CAUTION] Make
sure that you have a very low speed drill press and secure the spar
doubler very well! [/CAUTION] See results here:
http://rv8a.parashak.net/comments.php?id=P26_0_1_0_C
A hole cutter would be better but, the holes are different radii are
different and non-standard. I just went slow and steady.
Regards,
Paul
rv8a.parashak.net
Monterey, CA
On Apr 21, 2005, at 21:41, MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Dan
>
> What you say makes good sense, lighten as much as possible. So, how
> does one
> best cut these lightening holes? Circular hole saw on a drill press?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV-8, Empennage
> San Ramon, California
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
From:
<gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: RV vs Rocket (IO540 in RV-7)
As far as a SBS rocket, this guy is putting a IO-540 in a RV-7: http://www.rv-7adventure.net/
>Vince wrote:
>Let me explain: Flying RVs is like spending the night with Jennifer
>Aniston. Flying the Rocket is like spending the night with Jennifer
>Aniston, Cindy Crawford, Sandra Bullock, and 12 Victoria's Secret
>models... and they're fighting over who gets you next.
Vince, give me a break, 1 woman Vs. 15 woman. Wishful thinking to the max, and
I doubt you would know what to do with them. ;- )
One) The current top plane of the Cafe Foundation, CAFE Triaviathon is a RV-4, beating a Mr H's HRII. (http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/RV-4.pdf) After all a HRII is still a RV. Your 1 to 15 girl analogy for the RV vs HRII is more like your wife wearing 15 different wigs.
Two) The Rocket, HRII or F-1, are nice, but all its extra attribute (performance
over RV's) is Horse Power. It is just a clip wing, stretched RV-4 with a IO-540.
They handle good because it is a RV. OK, your 1 to 15 girl RV vs HRII analogy
is more like your girlfriend got a boob job, but sorry no 15 girl action
Buddy.
Three) What makes RVs fun is they way the feel and fly. Climb rate and top speed
is part of the picture. Yes, the Rocket is faster and climbs quicker (220 vs.250
mph , 2500 vs 3500 fpm, no denying HP). The Rocket has 14% more performance
than a RV. OK your up to a 3-way with Jennifer Aniston and her girlfriend.
Vince, you are justifiably proud and have a very active imagination; Congratulations
on your Rocket, very nice. Fly safe. Those fast women can burn you. :-)
Cheers George, RV-7 (which I think is like the actress Eva Longoria, one at a time
if fine)
SNIP People can say what they want
about how great an RV flies, that is until they experience a rocket.
Its not just about the horsepower. They fly as beautifully as they
look.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
SNIP
Bob is right. Man, I LOVED my RV-4. It ruined me from ever being happy
in any production plane that I ever flew afterwards.
But what about the Rocket? Well, I still like to fly RVs, but given a
choice..... the Rocket wins.
Let me explain: Flying RVs is like spending the night with Jennifer
Aniston. Flying the Rocket is like spending the night with Jennifer
Aniston, Cindy Crawford, Sandra Bullock, and 12 Victoria's Secret
models... and they're fighting over who gets you next.
Vince
F-1H Rocket, N540VF
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
From:
<gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Sky-Tec starter for sale/problem starting with LSEII
True the sky-tec takes takes more current to get going which can draw down the
voltage
Kick backs are not Sky-Tecs problem, it is an ignition problem
If you kick back you can break the starter nose casting
Low voltage plays havoc w/ all elect ign, causing them to miss fire and kick back
during start
The LSEII (or LSEIII) should do the best of any EI because it can operate w/ low
voltage
Electoair requires more volts than the LSE and may be more sensitive to low volt
start
My basic Sky-tec, no problems over 600 hours, but with mags
EI on starting, you can use 2nd small battery just to pwr one EI (isolated from
starter)
Using the back up battery for EI pwr & starting will eliminate the problem (if
ignition related)
Sky-tec offers the HT version which has lower current requirements
B&C is nice but cost too much
Most can use the cheaper Sky-tec, the HT version cost more but is a better starter
SKY-TEC, all are nice reliable products
Small battey, large gage wire, good connections (+ and -) to starter, you will
be fine.
George
Dan is basically right. I just ordered my RV-10 Aerosport IO-540 engine
today and talked to Bart about it. He recommended getting the
HT Sky-Tec starter with my Lightspeed III ignition. I didn't follow
it perfectly, but it basically amounted to the voltage dropping when
you crank the engine. I don't think he said it caused kickbacks, but
maybe just poor starting. Anyway, I'm hoping to use a dual-bus system
and run my lightspeed on the essential bus...separated...during starting
anyway, along with an instrument or two.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
From:
Rich Chiappe <service(at)skytecair.com>
Subject:
Re: Sky-Tec Starter / EI Compatibility
Hey, I'll chime in on the Sky-Tec compatibility w/EI discussion.
As Dan appropriately put it, there can be issues with a starter's
initial desire to get turning ("initial inrush current") pulling max
amps out of a weakened or low battery trying to keep the EI up and
glowing during the crank. When the battery is up and the system is
functioning well, there are no problems (hence why most folks out there
are running Sky-Tec and Lightspeed together successfully). But when
something falls off par (battery low, cable or solenoid failing or
loose, etc.), when the permanant magnet motor goes to pull current,
there's not a lot left to keep the bus (supplying voltage to the EI) up
over a threshold of voltage above which it knows to do its thing. Below
the threshold, however, the EI fritzs out and doesn't do its thing well
alowing sparks before the piston gets all the way up (kickback -> broken
starter).
Workaround/fixes:
- Choose a wound field (non-permanant magnet starter)
This may work well for you for a longer period of time, but frankly,
you haven't fixed the problem - only delayed it. The condition still
exists. You simply manage to lessen the extent of the amp draw and
therefore lessen the liklihood of drawing current below the EI's power
threshold. But a low enough battery with any brand of starter will
still yield you the same results: KICKBACK.
- Don't start on the EI. If you are lucky enough to have left an
impulse coupled mag on one side of your engine - GREAT! Pull the power
to the EI until the mag has your engine lit and running (well past the
point where the starter pulls current to start cranking it up). Put
power back into the EI when everything's already going around.
- Dual EI? Then your best bet is to isolate the EI battery (give it its
own source of power separate from the big battery supplying the
starter). Again, this doesn't matter if it's a Sky-Tec LS or any other
flavor of starter. You'd be well served to protect your investment this
way. The EI doesn't require a very stout battery. Just good, clean
voltage. So it's battery doesn't have to be big or heavy (or
expensive). Others on this board can give you specifics. A lot of
these low battery scenarios also tend to involve non-standard
batteries. There's a reason gel cell batteries are used in wheelchairs
and NOT most aircraft. There are more appropriate technologies for
aircraft batteries that crank hard and are still lightweight and small.
Consider the line of AGM batteries from the likes of Hawker Energy
(Aerobatteries.com). Can anyone say "Odyssey"? I know most of you
already do.
- Consider buying an EI that understands the cranking process. As
mentioned, we have had multiple conversations with "traditional EI
vendors" and the other posts were accurate. Existing vendors tend to
blame the starter for causing kickbacks. For obvious reasons, we
disagree. The starter is the victim in this scenario, not the culprit.
However, there are other EI manufacturers that have figured out ways to
make their EI work even when voltage goes scarce during the crank (due
to starter pull or any other reason). Take a look at the E-MAG at
emagair.com .
- Go on faith. For those of you who continue to run Sky-Tec LS (or any
other model of Sky-Tec starter) with a Lightspeed, great! If your
starter should suffer a kickback, we're here to help you. Complete
overhauls on most models are $150 or less and repairs of simple parts
like mounts (most frequent victim of kickback) are only $60. It's not a
ton of money in the big picture should the worst scenario ever happen.
When it happens to your other brand of starter (they suffer kickbacks
just like all starters do regardless of manufacturer - regardless of the
hype), hold on to your wallet. Seriously, we turn starters around same
day (in most cases) and we'll work with you. If we can't be perfect,
we'll at least be nice, efficient and a good value!
Hope this info helps you. If you ever have questions about starters of
any sort, please do not hesitate to ask.
- Rich Chiappe
Sky-Tec
800-476-7896
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
From:
"JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net>
Subject:
Re: RV vs Rocket (IO540 in RV-7)
ME THINKS HE COMPLAINS TOO LOUDLY.... 8*) KABONG (GBA & GWB)
Note: In My Not So Humble Opinion Gummibears skills in an airplane can not
be overstated. In a race car ?.?.? He'd just be another target....8*) Do
Not Archive
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV vs Rocket (IO540 in RV-7)
>
> First let me say, that I do have the slowest Rocket. I have flown
> side-by-side with a 180 HP CS RV-4 and I am faster, can climb better, have
> a
> lower fuel flow (maybe 0.1 GPH), etc. etc. It is not magic but I have
> more
> HP. :-)
I don't take my car to the race track and
> expect to compete with formula F-1 cars.
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
> Harmon Rocket-II
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: oil cooling methods
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
Fred,
I have the 7 row Niagra cooler on a 160 HP RV-6. It is mounted directly to
the baffle behind the #4 cylinder, and the opening is the width of the
cooler x the height of the cooler less about an inch. I'm guessing the
overall dimensions of the hole are 3.5" x 4.5", which is15.25 square inches,
which would be the same cross sectional area as a 4.5" diameter SCAT Tube.
Both my oil cooling and cylinder cooling are fine, even in the high
temperatures we experience here in Atlanta.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com>
Subject: RV-List: oil cooling methods
>
>
> Bob,
>
> I have a 13 bay classic mounted on the firewall, with a 3" SCAT tube from
> #4 cylinder.
> on my RV-6A, O-320-D1A ... I'm finding that it's not getting enough air to
> sufficiently
> cool the oil on hot days (OAT > 95*F). Oil temps go up to 230*F under
> those
> conditions.
> When I called the Niagara people about changing coolers, I was told that
> I
> should have
> at least a 4" SCAT tube, preferably a 6". I'm thinking that taking that
> much
> air from the
> top of the engine would introduce engine cooling issues. I'm now
> considering
> a NACA
> vent off the left lower cowl.....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV 375 Hrs
>
>
> Time:
>
>
> From: rv6fly < rv6fly(at)bresnan.net <mailto:rv6fly(at)bresnan.net> >
> Subject: oil cooling methods
>
> >
>
> My friend's (Larry), 6A has a firewall mounted oil cooler. I
> imagine
> the standard source of cool air for the cooler would be SCAT tubing
> from
> the baffle behind cylinder #4. Years ago while helping with another
> 6A
> I toyed with the idea of taking the cooling air from a NACA vent on
> the
> left side of the cowl with the idea of keeping all of the air coming
> in
> the cowl inlet for cylinder cooling instead of bleeding off air
> behind
>
> #4 for the oil cooler. The downside would be having to undo a clamp
> before being able to drop the bottom cowl.
> As a lot of my RV knowledge is not up to date, I thought I'd check
> current thingking on this.
> Also, what's the latest on mechanical fuel pump cooling and
> alternator
> cooling both of which I did when I built my 6.
>
> Bob Skinner
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Sky-Tec Starter / EI Compatibility
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
I can vouch for Sky-Tec's service. I just had a starter go out. I
called them on Monday. Arranged for an outright exchange which I had
to pay for, but they will refund some money if the core of my bad
starter is serviceable. The new starter arrived today. They really
wanted to help my try to troubleshoot my starter to avoid having to
send it to them. Really nice folks, really good service.
On Apr 22, 2005, at 2:31 PM, Rich Chiappe wrote:
>
> Hey, I'll chime in on the Sky-Tec compatibility w/EI discussion.
>
> As Dan appropriately put it, there can be issues with a starter's
> initial desire to get turning ("initial inrush current") pulling max
> amps out of a weakened or low battery trying to keep the EI up and
> glowing during the crank. When the battery is up and the system is
> functioning well, there are no problems (hence why most folks out there
> are running Sky-Tec and Lightspeed together successfully). But when
> something falls off par (battery low, cable or solenoid failing or
> loose, etc.), when the permanant magnet motor goes to pull current,
> there's not a lot left to keep the bus (supplying voltage to the EI) up
> over a threshold of voltage above which it knows to do its thing.
> Below
> the threshold, however, the EI fritzs out and doesn't do its thing well
> alowing sparks before the piston gets all the way up (kickback ->
> broken
> starter).
>
> Workaround/fixes:
>
> - Choose a wound field (non-permanant magnet starter)
> This may work well for you for a longer period of time, but frankly,
> you haven't fixed the problem - only delayed it. The condition still
> exists. You simply manage to lessen the extent of the amp draw and
> therefore lessen the liklihood of drawing current below the EI's power
> threshold. But a low enough battery with any brand of starter will
> still yield you the same results: KICKBACK.
>
> - Don't start on the EI. If you are lucky enough to have left an
> impulse coupled mag on one side of your engine - GREAT! Pull the power
> to the EI until the mag has your engine lit and running (well past the
> point where the starter pulls current to start cranking it up). Put
> power back into the EI when everything's already going around.
>
> - Dual EI? Then your best bet is to isolate the EI battery (give it
> its
> own source of power separate from the big battery supplying the
> starter). Again, this doesn't matter if it's a Sky-Tec LS or any other
> flavor of starter. You'd be well served to protect your investment
> this
> way. The EI doesn't require a very stout battery. Just good, clean
> voltage. So it's battery doesn't have to be big or heavy (or
> expensive). Others on this board can give you specifics. A lot of
> these low battery scenarios also tend to involve non-standard
> batteries. There's a reason gel cell batteries are used in wheelchairs
> and NOT most aircraft. There are more appropriate technologies for
> aircraft batteries that crank hard and are still lightweight and small.
> Consider the line of AGM batteries from the likes of Hawker Energy
> (Aerobatteries.com). Can anyone say "Odyssey"? I know most of you
> already do.
>
> - Consider buying an EI that understands the cranking process. As
> mentioned, we have had multiple conversations with "traditional EI
> vendors" and the other posts were accurate. Existing vendors tend to
> blame the starter for causing kickbacks. For obvious reasons, we
> disagree. The starter is the victim in this scenario, not the culprit.
> However, there are other EI manufacturers that have figured out ways to
> make their EI work even when voltage goes scarce during the crank (due
> to starter pull or any other reason). Take a look at the E-MAG at
> emagair.com .
>
> - Go on faith. For those of you who continue to run Sky-Tec LS (or any
> other model of Sky-Tec starter) with a Lightspeed, great! If your
> starter should suffer a kickback, we're here to help you. Complete
> overhauls on most models are $150 or less and repairs of simple parts
> like mounts (most frequent victim of kickback) are only $60. It's not
> a
> ton of money in the big picture should the worst scenario ever happen.
> When it happens to your other brand of starter (they suffer kickbacks
> just like all starters do regardless of manufacturer - regardless of
> the
> hype), hold on to your wallet. Seriously, we turn starters around same
> day (in most cases) and we'll work with you. If we can't be perfect,
> we'll at least be nice, efficient and a good value!
>
> Hope this info helps you. If you ever have questions about starters of
> any sort, please do not hesitate to ask.
>
> - Rich Chiappe
> Sky-Tec
> 800-476-7896
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
From:
GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca>
Subject:
Re: Sky-Tec starter starting with LSEII
Learned this trick on the DC-6B, just count a few blades before you turn the
ignition on!
8 & 12 blades, fuel boost then ignition (3 & 6 warm).
On the RV with sky-tec and Lightspeed, ignition ON at 4 blades, no kickback
in 360 hrs.
George in Langley BC
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV-List: Re: Sky-Tec starter for sale/problem starting with
LSEII
True the sky-tec takes takes more current to get going which can draw down
the voltage
Kick backs are not Sky-Tecs problem, it is an ignition problem
If you kick back you can break the starter nose casting
Low voltage plays havoc w/ all elect ign, causing them to miss fire and kick
back during start
The LSEII (or LSEIII)
-------------------------------------------------
Big Snip
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
From:
"Joseph Czachorowski" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Subject:
Silver Bullet
Guys,
I like to tell you about a new, improved product for our tailwheel
RV's. I have been flying with one as the BETA tester for some time
now. I previously had a Jantzi tailwheel link. I liked Terry's but
wanted something different. I asked my brother (who has a machine
shop) to make me a tailwheel linkage that was corrosion resistant
and lighter and would last a long time. The result is what he calls
the "Silver Bullet". His company is called, "RIVETHEAD." I liked
the feel and response from the new "Silver Bullet" so much that I
asked him to produce it for us tailwheel RV'ers.
Take a look at the link below. It's nice to have choices.
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze6vuex/
Joe "Zack" Czachorowski
RV8 #80125
810hrs!
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
From:
Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject:
Re: Sky-Tec Starter / EI Compatibility
Can't let this pass without comment. This was the same explanation I
was given by the Skytec folks at their booth at Oshkosh. Sounds
plausible, but in talking to Klaus from Lightspeed, he explained in
great detail (which I forget and didn't fully understand anyway) why
this scenario was thought of and engineered for, in his ignition
systems. Whether you believe Skytec or not, Rich states this as
accepted fact, and this is not at all the case.
Jeff Point
Rich Chiappe wrote:
>Below the threshold, however, the EI fritzs out and doesn't do its thing well
>alowing sparks before the piston gets all the way up (kickback -> broken
>starter).
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com>
Subject:
Re: RV vs Rocket
Date:
Apr 22, 2005
No beef up on the RV-8 spar. Will reduce max G rating to utility cat. (4.4g) This
is intended to be a high altitude traveler (18,000 ft or more). My -4 will
be the yank & bank ride. The -7/Rocket tips are the 'sheared' tips that give
another 5 - 6 inches of span (each side) over the Horner (Sp?) tips on stock
-8) Used them on my -4 as well.
Tracy Crook
> ... My answer was an RV-8 with a 300 HP rotary with the
> wings extended 1 foot on each side and RV-7/Rocket wingtips. ...
Sounds very interesting. Did you do anything to beef up the
spar, or are you planning on reducing the aerobatic limits?
What's the difference between the RV7 wingtips and the RV8
wingtips?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/>
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
Looks great Zack. Too bad I have something already. Next plane. Will it fit
a Rocket?
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Guys,
>
> I like to tell you about a new, improved product for our tailwheel
> RV's. I have been flying with one as the BETA tester for some time
> now. I previously had a Jantzi tailwheel link. I liked Terry's but
> wanted something different. I asked my brother (who has a machine
> shop) to make me a tailwheel linkage that was corrosion resistant
> and lighter and would last a long time. The result is what he calls
> the "Silver Bullet". His company is called, "RIVETHEAD." I liked
> the feel and response from the new "Silver Bullet" so much that I
> asked him to produce it for us tailwheel RV'ers.
>
> Take a look at the link below. It's nice to have choices.
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/vze6vuex/
>
> Joe "Zack" Czachorowski
> RV8 #80125
> 810hrs!
>
>
>
>
>
>
Looks great Zack. Too bad I have something already. Next plane. Will it fit a Rocket?
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Joseph Czachorowski"
Guys,
I like to tell you about a new, improved product for our tailwheel
RV's. I have been flying with one as the BETA tester for some time
now. I previously had a Jantzi tailwheel link. I liked Terry's but
wanted something different. I asked my brother (who has a machine
shop) to make me a tailwheel linkage that was corrosion resistant
and lighter and would last a long time. The result is what he calls
the "Silver Bullet". His company is called, "RIVETHEAD." I liked
the feel and response from the new "Silver Bullet" so much that I
asked him to produce it for us tailwheel RV'ers.
Take a look at the link below. It's nice to
have choices.
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze6vuex/
Joe "Zack" Czachorowski
RV8 #80125
810hrs!
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject:
Blowing fuel lines
Date:
Apr 23, 2005
A recent post advocated blowing out the fuel tank line during condition inspection
to clear any debris that might be partially clogging the pickup tube. After
some thought, I can't see any practical utility to this procedure as the clogging
material will still be in the fuel tank & will shortly return to the low
point and re-clog the pickup tube. But maybe I don't understand the procedure
so would somebody enlighten me please?
How do the rest of you ensure that the pickup is clear during inspection? Pull
the fuel drains? I've never done one so ....
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 23, 2005
From:
Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
Subject:
Re: Blowing fuel lines
Well, how about vacuuming out the tanks, fuel lines, etc. as they are closed
out?
A shop vac with a homemade extension made out of leftover 3/8' fuel line
added to the nozzle will provide lots of suction, go around corners and
into small areas, etc. to get rid of any filings, metal bits, etc. left
behind.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Blowing fuel lines
>
> A recent post advocated blowing out the fuel tank line during condition
> inspection to clear any debris that might be partially clogging the pickup
> tube. After some thought, I can't see any practical utility to this
> procedure as the clogging material will still be in the fuel tank & will
> shortly return to the low point and re-clog the pickup tube. But maybe I
> don't understand the procedure so would somebody enlighten me please?
>
> How do the rest of you ensure that the pickup is clear during inspection?
> Pull the fuel drains? I've never done one so ....
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject:
Re: Blowing fuel lines
Date:
Apr 23, 2005
Only use this method BEFORE putting any gas in the tank!
Afterwards even the fumes will explode from the sparks of the vac motor.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Blowing fuel lines
>
> Well, how about vacuuming out the tanks, fuel lines, etc. as they are
> closed
> out?
>
> A shop vac with a homemade extension made out of leftover 3/8' fuel line
> added to the nozzle will provide lots of suction, go around corners and
> into small areas, etc. to get rid of any filings, metal bits, etc. left
> behind.
>
> Jim Oke
> RV-6A
> Wpg., MB
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
> To: "rvlist"
> Subject: RV-List: Blowing fuel lines
>
>
>>
>> A recent post advocated blowing out the fuel tank line during condition
>> inspection to clear any debris that might be partially clogging the
>> pickup
>> tube. After some thought, I can't see any practical utility to this
>> procedure as the clogging material will still be in the fuel tank & will
>> shortly return to the low point and re-clog the pickup tube. But maybe I
>> don't understand the procedure so would somebody enlighten me please?
>>
>> How do the rest of you ensure that the pickup is clear during inspection?
>> Pull the fuel drains? I've never done one so ....
>>
>> Dave Reel - RV8A
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date:
Apr 23, 2005
Subject:
Re: Blowing fuel lines
In a message dated 4/23/05 7:24:06 AM Central Daylight Time, dreel(at)cox.net
writes:
> But maybe I don't understand the procedure so would somebody enlighten me
> please?
>>>>>
The sump drains on most RVs are directly below the pickup tube inlet-
blow/drain/blow/drain til clear. If you've been concientions about what goes in
the
tank, you really shouldn't see very much anyway, but at least you know the gas
will suck (into the tube, that is... 8-)
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Subject:
"Best" color handheld
Date:
Apr 23, 2005
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
I'm look for a color display hand held capable of driving my AP.
Has anyone had a chance to compare side by side the lowrance 2000c and the garmin
296? I like the larger display size of the lowrance but the display resolution
seems lacking by comparison. Anyone fly with the 2000c and can judge its
moving map *smoothness* & latency on updating the display?
One much easier to operate with one hand (flying) than the other?
Anyone know if either company is coming out soon with yet another model?
Anything new spotted at SNF?
I'm look for a color display hand held capable of driving my AP.
Has anyone had a chance to compare side by side the lowrance 2000c and the garmin
296? I like the larger display size of the lowrance but the display resolution
seems lacking by comparison. Anyone fly with the 2000c and can judge its moving
map *smoothness* latency on updating the display?
One much easier to operate with one hand (flying) than the other?
Anyone know if either company is coming out soon with yet another model?
Anything new spotted at SNF?
________________________________________________________________________________
Date:
Apr 23, 2005
From:
<gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: oil cooling methods
Re: oil cooling methods
RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W
>When I called the Niagara people about changing coolers, I was told that
I
>should have at least a 4" SCAT tube, preferably a 6". I'm thinking that
taking
>that much air from the top of the engine would introduce engine cooling
issues.
Yes 3" dia is way too small. That is why Van's firewall oil cooler kit causes some
grief.
If you look at the air needed and engineer a duct to provide all the flow the cooler
can use, a 3" tube is too small, given common assumptions. Add the fact
SCAT tube has a rough inside finish and the airbox attached to the oil cooler
(plenum) are typically real bad. The airbox/plenum in Van's kit has a small volume
and square corners. Also what is the airflow at the oil coolers exit. You
could have local airflow under the cowl blocking the exit air of the cooler.
That will cause a problem. Consider a large volume duct routed to a low pressure
area near the cowl exit. Last, the Niagara is not real efficient; although
the SW coolers cost a mint they are much better heat exchangers. I say trade up
to a SW, install 4" duct (smooth inside diameter using silicon couples and straight
pipe made of aluminum or fiberglass). Also the inlet and outlet should
have no sharp corners, smooth throats (bell mouth), tapered sides and/or large
volume. Don't use the Van's kit. Make your own airb
ox for
the OC that has tapered sides and much deeper. If made of fiberglass you can make
a cool smooth shape. You can just add the "6 duct to overcome all the inefficiency
of the basic set up. You really are not flowing that much because of
all the restrictions, but this is not a good way to go IMHO. It may be hard to
rout a 6" duct and not needed. From my claculation the ideal dia was around 4.5
inches assuming a smooth duct and no negative back pressue at the exit.
>"I'm now considering a NACA vent off the left lower cowl....."
Don't do it, you will add un-needed drag (ref: Speed with Economy). Dumping high
flow air into the bottom of the cowl from the outside will add more drag and
reduce air flowing thru the engine. Also unless you know where the air pressure
is you may get little air from your NACA scoop. You already have cowl inlets
of enough area using the stock cowl to cool the engine and also feed the oil
cooler. If you are worried about starving the rear cylinder for air, make you
OC duct inlet closer to the middle of the rear baffle. You could add some internal
baffles or snorkel to feed the cooler inlet from both sides of the engine.
Read Speed with economy. I also recommend using a pressure plenum. You will
always have more leakage with the soft seal against the upper cowl, per the stock
set up. A seal that has flipped back can cause large air loss and add cooling
drag of 50%. Since you have an O-320, I would check your gage since you should
not see these high temps even with an ineffic
ient set
up. It could be off. It tends to be the IO-360 (200hp) engines running hot, not
O-320s.
Cheers George
PS: I am big fan of NOT mounting coolers directly off the rear baffle. The fire
wall mount can be made to work, but recommend a middle ground. Mount the cooler
off the rear baffle support by the engine mount. This allows vibration free
mount for the cooler, no high fatigue stress cracks of the baffle and cooler,
while keeping the duct to min length. Also the exit air flow should be at worst
neutral in this area of the cowl. G
=========================
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 375 Hrs
Subject: oil cooling methods
Bob,
I have a 13 bay classic mounted on the firewall, with a 3" SCAT tube from #4 cylinder
on my RV-6A, O-320-D1A ... I'm finding that it's not getting enough air
to sufficiently cool the oil on hot days (OAT > 95*F). Oil temps go up to 230*F
under those conditions.
When I called the Niagara people about changing coolers, I was told that I should
have at least a 4" SCAT tube, preferably a 6". I'm thinking that taking that
much air from the top of the engine would introduce engine cooling issues.
I'm now considering a NACA vent off the left lower cowl.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 375 Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject:
"Best" color handheld
Date:
Apr 23, 2005
Hey Lucky,
I can't say about the Lowrance, but I just got done flying the 296
across the country and back and I like it a lot. When you're buzzing
along at 175 kts at 1500 AGL under a deck and there's a row 1500 ft high
towers in your path, it pops up a little window for terrain alert which
is very timely. That's worth the cost of admission right there. It's
handy to highlight special use airspace along the route and see the
floor and ceiling altitudes so you can decide to communicate or divert.
The data available onscreen is very good too except that I'd like to see
the proper frequencies for ATC displayed for classes c and b by sector.
It gives lots of info about airports including runways and frequencies.
I used it to highlight airports near my route and get ASOS or AWOS or
ATIS freqs to update my altimeter setting and get wind and ceiling
reports. It doesn't give you TPA and traffic direction at airports
though so you'll still need your flight guide. It's pretty easy to use
but I did have to read the manual to figure out a couple of things.
Overall rating: not perfect but very very good.
Ed Holyoke
Back in SoCal from Sun'N'Fun
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lucky
Subject: RV-List: "Best" color handheld
I'm look for a color display hand held capable of driving my AP.
Has anyone had a chance to compare side by side the lowrance 2000c and
the garmin 296? I like the larger display size of the lowrance but the
display resolution seems lacking by comparison. Anyone fly with the
2000c and can judge its moving map *smoothness* & latency on updating
the display?
One much easier to operate with one hand (flying) than the other?
Anyone know if either company is coming out soon with yet another model?
Anything new spotted at SNF?
I'm look for a color display hand held capable of driving my AP.
Has anyone had a chance to compare side by side the lowrance 2000c and
the garmin 296? I like the larger display size of the lowrance but the
display resolution seems lacking by comparison. Anyone fly with the
2000c and can judge its moving map *smoothness* latency on updating the
display?
One much easier to operate with one hand (flying) than the other?
Anyone know if either company is coming out soon with yet another model?
Anything new spotted at SNF?
________________________________________________________________________________
> Yes 3" dia is way too small. That is why Van's firewall oil
> cooler kit causes some grief.
>
> If you look at the air needed and engineer a duct to provide
> all the flow the cooler can use, a 3" tube is too small,
> given common assumptions.
I am running a 3" SCAT from above the #4 baffle, and have no oil cooling
problems. I have a 180hp, RV6A. The 3" SCAT comes into the baffle at about
a 45 degree angle, which allows it to pass through the motor mount. I have
the cooler mounted on the firewall, with a little aluminum plenum I built to
transition from the 3" round to the cooler. I also built a cockpit
controllable throttle in the plenum, something I highly recommend for anyone
who flies in air cooler than about 30 degrees. If I climb on a hot day,
from 900' to 8500', I might see the oil exceed 200 - 210F, but on leveling
out it drops right back to vernatherm temps of about 185. My cooler is
Niagara. Hottest OAT I've flown in is around 95F, and I was the one who
needed a cooler.
So, as always, many variables at work. But, 3" SCAT is not necessarily too
small. Remember, excess cooling means slower flight.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 610 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com>
Subject:
Re: "Best" color handheld
Date:
Apr 23, 2005
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Holyoke
Subject: RE: RV-List: "Best" color handheld
KitPlanes (Feb. 2005) did a side by side comparison of the 296 and Airmap 2000c.
They gave the nod to Garmin although it was much more expensive at the time;
and now it's $200 less. Garmin ranked higher for terrain detail, terrain warning,
resolution, and simpler operating system. The article stated that it was
much easier to define different colored areas such as Class B boundaries, thanks
to higher resolution.
I went with the Garmin 206 after a lot of research, and it will be connected to
my not yet flying Trio EZ pilot A/P. A power/data cable is purchased separately
for less than 30 bucks.
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Subject:
Re: "Best" color handheld
Date:
Apr 23, 2005
copy. i just bought a 296 this afternoon. WARNING or GOOD NEWS, when I make a
purchase the company usually announces soon afterwards a new and better product
is now available and the model I just bought is now obsolete and is on sale...
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ed Holyoke
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: "Best" color handheld
>
>
> KitPlanes (Feb. 2005) did a side by side comparison of the 296 and Airmap 2000c.
> They gave the nod to Garmin although it was much more expensive at the time;
and
> now it's $200 less. Garmin ranked higher for terrain detail, terrain warning,
> resolution, and simpler operating system. The article stated that it was much
> easier to define different colored areas such as Class B boundaries, thanks to
> higher resolution.
> I went with the Garmin 206 after a lot of research, and it will be connected
to
> my not yet flying Trio EZ pilot A/P. A power/data cable is purchased separately
> for less than 30 bucks.
>
>
>
>
>
>
copy. i just bought a 296 this afternoon. WARNING or GOOD NEWS, when I make a purchase
the company usually announces soon afterwardsa new and better product
is now available and the model I just bought is now obsolete and is on sale...
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON"
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Holyoke
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: "Best" color handheld
-- RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke"
KitPlanes (Feb. 2005) did a side by side comparison of the 296 and Airmap 2000c.
They gave the nod to Garmin although it was much more expensive at the time; and
now it's $200 less. Garmin ranked higher for terrain detail, terrain warning,
resolution, and simpler operating system. The article stated that it was much
easier to define different colored areas such as Class B boundaries, thanks to
higher resolution.
I went with the Garmin 206 afte
r a lot of research, and it will be connected to
my not yet flying Trio EZ pilot A/P. A power/data cable is purchased separately
for less than 30 bucks.
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Garth Shearing" <Garth(at)islandnet.com>
Subject:
Re: oil cooling methods
Date:
Apr 23, 2005
Eventually I would like to try an alternative oil cooling arrangement for my
RV6A (when it's finished) which may have already been done by others on this
list. So here is a suggestion:
Mount the oil cooler flat on the firewall at the bottom right hand corner of
the firewall just above the engine mount. Build an aluminum or stainless
expansion duct between the lower cowling and the oil cooler with an
expansion ratio of about 4 to 1. The entry on the cowling could be a NACA
inlet or male scoop. The expansion duct would not be fixed to the cowling
for easy cowling removal. Use rubber seals where required. Cut a hole in
the firewall to match the oil cooler fin area. Build a reverse duct in the
area between the firewall and the rudder pedals to speed the exit cooling
air back up to airspeed. This 3 to 1 duct would exit into the airstream
directly out of the bottom of the aircraft with a smooth transition. A
balanced pilot-controlled air vane could be installed in the duct on the
cabin side of the firewall. The exit duct may have to be insulated for
summer comfort. This would result in very high cooling efficiencies while
minimizing cooling drag. At the same time, no cooling air is robbed from
the cylinder head cooling system.
I've built water and oil cooling systems like this for my VariEze with very
good results. Has anyone done this on an RV6 or similarly-configured
homebuilt?
Cheers.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 90% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: "rv6fly" <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net>
Subject: RV-List: oil cooling methods
>
> My friend's (Larry), 6A has a firewall mounted oil cooler. I imagine
> the standard source of cool air for the cooler would be SCAT tubing from
> the baffle behind cylinder #4. Years ago while helping with another 6A
> I toyed with the idea of taking the cooling air from a NACA vent on the
> left side of the cowl with the idea of keeping all of the air coming in
> the cowl inlet for cylinder cooling instead of bleeding off air behind
> #4 for the oil cooler. The downside would be having to undo a clamp
> before being able to drop the bottom cowl.
> As a lot of my RV knowledge is not up to date, I thought I'd check
> current thingking on this.
> Also, what's the latest on mechanical fuel pump cooling and alternator
> cooling both of which I did when I built my 6.
>
> Bob Skinner
>
>
> --
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)speedyquick.net>
Subject:
"Best" color handheld
Date:
Apr 23, 2005
That's good to hear. I've been waiting on trading up from a 196 because I'm
usually the one that triggers a new product. I bought a gps pilot III a
month before they announced the 196, and bought a 196 just weeks before they
announced the 296.
Thanks for taking the bullet on this one, I'll wait a few more weeks.
Ed Bundy - RV6A
Eagle, Idaho
> copy. i just bought a 296 this afternoon. WARNING or GOOD NEWS,
> when I make a purchase the company usually announces soon
> afterwards a new and better product is now available and the
> model I just bought is now obsolete and is on sale...
>
> lucky
--
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject:
RE: [VAF Mailing List] RV-6 Crash on Otay Mountain, CA
This was a friend and fellow list member, Bill Bishop. He is in serious
but stable condition after surgery last night. You may also recognize
him as half of the Bill-Squared flight from the Bahamas RV trip article
in Sport Aviation. He and the other Bill were on their return to Houston
from a trip to Baja. I don't have any additional details on the accident
and won't speculate on cause. At least what's in the news stories
appears reasonably accurate, except it's a -6A. I know you'll join me in
wishing Bill a complete and speedy recovery. I'll post updates when I
get them.
Regards,
Greg Young
>
> http://www.signonsandiego.com/news/metro/20050423-9999-1m23crash.html
>
> http://www.nbcsandiego.com/news/4409122/detail.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com>
Subject:
Re: Scud Running
Date:
Apr 23, 2005
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
Subject: RV-List: Scud Running
Just after the Garmin 296 became available, I remember reading an article titled
"A Case for a GPS". A single engine airplane had a total engine failure over
mountainous area in which the lower portions were obscured by clouds. A controller
was attempting to direct the plane to the valley below, but it hit a rising
peak on the mountain slope, that could have been avoided by gliding a few
hundred feet to the side. Turns out the Garmin had/has enough terrain information
to avoid this specific rising terrain.
Two years ago, a CFII in my area, along with an pilot working for an instrument
rating, took off for a moonless night cross country, in which the plan was to
activate an IFR flight while in route. Flying at approx. 8500', they were suddenly
thrust into the pines and deep snow on the edge of a lower ridgeline. The
terrain actually exceeds 9500' msl at it's highest point. Somehow, both had
neglected this mountain in their path to the VOR where they had planned to activate
the IFR clearance while performing their on the ground flight planning.
They had a GPS, but "no" terrain depiction or terrain warning. Luckily, they
both survived, and their cell phone worked in this location. It was around 10:30
PM, and below freezing.
Now wouldn't you know it. A friend of mine and I, decided to fly (re-create) this
exact route in the daytime in an RV9A, with a 296 aboard. I can tell you right
now, that this GPS does as advertised, and would have warned these two pilots
well ahead of time. In this case, we had a CFII and an instrument flight plan,
but a mis-managed thought process during flight planning. Could have just
been the time of night, and urge to get home (approx 250 miles). But never the
less, the Garmin 296 could have saved the day, for the un-expected!
I'm not saying, that I'd be buzzing towers either, but am using two examples where
this terrain warning system is very worth while.
Larry Adamson --- KSLC
>When you're buzzing
>along at 175 kts at 1500 AGL under a deck and there's a row 1500 ft high
>towers in your path, it pops up a little window for terrain alert which
>is very timely. That's worth the cost of admission right there. --->
>Before someone jumps my case, understand this IS NOT a flame by any means,
>but an observation:
>Sorry, but as a CFII I have to chime in here. While that may be a worth
>while feature, buzzing along at 1500' AGL under a cloud deck and using a GPS
>to tell you where towers are, is not the best advice to be publishing in a
>public forum. (Not to mention, isn't the smartest thing to do anyway,
>remember Bill Benedict? It may be speculation, but it sounded like scud
>running to me)
>It makes my stomach cringe when people scud run that low to the ground, with
>potentially rising terrain and lowering clouds. I've already lost one
>fellow Army pilot and friend to that, and don't want to hear of another.
>Get an instrument rating and punch in the clouds, or turn around. Staying
>under the deck at 1500' AGL is asking for trouble.
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: [VAF Mailing List] RV-6 Crash on Otay Mountain, CA
Date:
Apr 24, 2005
Bill Bishop status from SoCAL Wing Van's Air Force Group
--- In SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com, "Paul A. Rosales"
wrote:
>I'm just in from San Diego (Montgomery Field) and flew in with Trish
>Russell (lead), Gary Sobek and Laird Owens. Many thanks to Ed Perry for the
>pickup/delivery. After getting past the receptionist (who would not even
>say if he was admitted because Billy is a trauma patient), I talked with
>the admitting charge nurse. After explaining we were his friends and that
>we'd flown in from all over California, she caved in with some information.
>
>I got hold of Bill Hicks who came down to meet us, and Bill filled us in;
>Billy has two broken legs with splints below both knees (one leg was a
>compound fracture). The right arm is completely immobilized as is the left
>wrist. Billy also numerous stitches to the head, and there is not a part on
>his body that is not bruised or cut. CAT scans of the brain all appear
>normal, and today he is heavily sedated. He's still in critical condition
>but stable (blood pressure 120/80). No internal injuries that we know of,
>thank goodness.
>
>There is still one more surgery for the left wrist to come. He's still not
>out of the woods, and we are hoping in 2 more days, he'll probably be over
>the 'hump'. Billy will be at Scripps Mercy Hospital for the foreseeable
>future, and I will get an address/room number out when it becomes
>available.
>
>From what Ed Perry saw on TV, the Fire Chief who got to the wreckage first
>yelled out to the others something like 'This is a bad one, call the
>coroner", and Billy yells out "Hey, I'm alive...get me out of here.." and
>even gave some direction on how to get him out. Estimates are that he was
>trapped upside down in the plane for about 45 to an hour.
>
>I will keep you all posted via the list, and for now, please keep Billy in
>your prayers, Rosie
From: "Howard Long" <helong51(at)verizon.net>
Date: Sat Apr 23, 2005 1:08 pm
Subject: RV6A -- San Diego Area helong51
Some more info ....
I was assigned to work the midshift, 4/22 at LA Center. When I arrived and
was briefed, I was told about the RV crash near SDM, and told that the pilot
had been rescued and taken to a hospital. Each center has the responsibility
for search and rescue coordination for their underlying airspace. The Ops
Manager that I was relieving (not a pilot) had received an initial call from
SoCal TRACON, about the missing aircraft report, and possible ELT in the
area. They told him that a helicopter was being dispatched, but he went
ahead and called Air Force Search and Rescue, and they started the process
to look for the aircraft via message queries to airports along the suspected
route of flight (it's called an ALNOT), Flight Service checks to see if they
had received any calls from the missing aircraft, and notification of CAP
(civil air patrol). SoCal called back shortly to inform him that the crash
site had been found, and the process was halted. Incidentally, we never did
have a satellite 'hit' from his ELT. It must have been turned off before it
passed overhead. We had already received other ELT reports in the area
between JLI - TRM - OCN, so we were already soliciting checks looking for
that one, and it might have slowed us down in responding to the crash site
ELT, thinking that it was the same one. I received a call from Air Force
Rescue about 1230am asking for more ELT checks -- we did not receive any ELT
signals at that point-- and the record was closed out (they suspected that
the ELT had been at Ramona Airport and had been turned off). Moral of the
story -- check 121.5 regularly -- advise ATC if you hear an ELT --- and
check prior to aircraft shutdown to make sure your own has not been set off.
The quick response was thanks to Bill reporting the aircraft missing, and
the immediate response from the FD helicopter in San Diego. I wish I could
say that the response is always that immediate, but it hasn't been, in my
experience.
Howard Long, LA Center
(part of the message was cut off)
Incidentally, we never did have a sattelite 'hit' from his ELT. It must have
been turned off before it passed overhead. We had already received other ELT
reports in the area between JLI - TRM - OCN, so we were already soliciting
checks looking for that one, and it might have slowed us down in responding
to the crash site ELT, thinking that it was the same one. I received a call
from Air Force Rescue about 1230am asking for more ELT checks -- we did not
receive any ELT signals at that point-- and the record was closed out (they
suspected that the ELT had been at Ramona Airport and had been turned off).
Moral of the story -- check 121.5 regularly -- advise ATC if you hear an ELT
--- and check prior to aircraft shutdown to make sure your own has not been
set off. The quick response was thanks to Bill reporting the aircraft
missing, and the immediate response from the FD helicopter in San Diego. I
wish I could say that the response is always that immediate, but it hasn't
been, in my experience.
Howard Long, LA Center
Now my additional comment:
One thing that Bill Hicks told us, was that Bill Bishop's son was in Iraq.
Those of us that was at Bill's birthday breakfast, remember Bill getting a
cell phone call from his son in Iraq. Well according to Bill Hicks, Bill
Bishop's son is due back in the states at the end of the month. It appears
that Uncle Sam is sending him back today as it was reported he arrives in
San Diego this evening.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,660 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RE: [VAF Mailing List] RV-6 Crash on Otay Mountain, CA
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2005 18:08:49 -0500
This was a friend and fellow list member, Bill Bishop. He is in serious
but stable condition after surgery last night. You may also recognize
him as half of the Bill-Squared flight from the Bahamas RV trip article
in Sport Aviation. He and the other Bill were on their return to Houston
from a trip to Baja. I don't have any additional details on the accident
and won't speculate on cause. At least what's in the news stories
appears reasonably accurate, except it's a -6A. I know you'll join me in
wishing Bill a complete and speedy recovery. I'll post updates when I
get them.
Regards,
Greg Young
>
> http://www.signonsandiego.com/news/metro/20050423-9999-1m23crash.html
>
> http://www.nbcsandiego.com/news/4409122/detail.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello,
Anybody have any neat tricks to get the proper curve in the aft slider
skirts? I have the tops nailed, but the twist along the bottom part is
vexing.
Cheers,
Pete Howell
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: RV-List:
Date:
Apr 24, 2005
I tried the 2000 out in the sum and it is unreadable on highest setting even. My
296 is readable in direct sunlight, but everything in the cockpit reflects off
the screen which is anoying and makes it harder to see than if sun is directly
on it. And of course, shortly after I bought it the price went down $200.
Charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
From:
"Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Scud Running
Date:
Apr 24, 2005
Scud running is one thing, trying to fly thru mountainous terrain in the dark another.
Nothing wrong with scud running at 1500agl provided you can see all around
you and keep an escape route availible. As for me, I keep a current chart
open and my finger on my location at all times no matter the altitude. For sure
I wouldnt trust any gps to warn me of a tower, for example, a new very high
tower has been put up SE of LZU that dosnt show up on the 296. Trying to thread
a way thru know towers in low visibility is also not a good thing. charlie
heathco
