RV-Archive.digest.vol-qx
May 17, 2005 - May 31, 2005
>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: IFR flight, was 1000 FPM climb at 17,500'
>Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 10:37:53 -0700 (PDT)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper
>
>Mike,
>
>So, you can file an IFR flight plan without being IFR
>rated if you remain VFR.
>
>What about flying in the flight levels? AIM 3-2-2 B
>states:
>
>"Operating Rules and Pilot/Equipment Requirements.
>Unless otherwise authorized, all persons must operate
>their aircraft under IFR. (See 14 CFR
>Section 71.33 and 14 CFR Section 91.167 through 14 CFR
>Section 91.193.)"
>
>
>So, if you file an IFR flight plan, but remain VFR,
>then it seems to me that you are not really meeting
>the requirements (at least as advised by the AIM) of
>Class A air space!
>
>Skylor
>RV-8QB
>Under Construction
>
>--- Mike Robertson wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson"
> >
> >
> > But guys , it does not say you may not file an IFR
> > flight plan. YOU
> > may........you just cannot accept the IFR clearance
> > or fly IFR. You may,
> > however, file an IFR flight plan, place the comment
> > "Must remain VMC for
> > entire route" in the remarks box, receive a "VMC"
> > clearance that sounds like
> > an IFR clearance, and fly the entire route as though
> > you were flying it IFR.
> > If needed during the flight you MUST remind the
> > ATC controller that you
> > must remain VMC.
> >
> > There is nothing in the regs that prohibits this.
> > KAPISH!!
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> >
> > >From: Phil Wiethe <rv8a_builder(at)yahoo.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: RV-List: RE: IFR flight, was 1000 FPM
> > climb at 17,500'
> > >Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 18:53:48 -0700 (PDT)
> > >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Wiethe
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >-> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray"
> > Sorry, the
> > >FAA defines IFR as a weather condition less than
> > VFRminimums. I've talked
> > >to the AOPA, FAA, and EAA and none can point to any
> > reg thatrequires an
> > >instrument rating to fly/file an IFR flight
> > plan.I'm sure it's one of those
> > >things that everyone assumes but I don't seeit
> > written in concrete
> > >anywhere.Brucewww.glasair.orgBruce - I do not think
> > you are correct. IFR
> > >and IFR conditions are not
> > >
> > >the same thing. IFR conditions is more commonly
> > called IMC (Instrument
> > >Meteorlogical Conditions).
> > >
> > >Under FAR Part 1: Definitions and Abbreviations,
> > 1.1 - IFR Conditions means
> > >
> > >weather conditions below the minimum for flight
> > under visual flight rules.
> > >
> > >Under 1.2 IFR is defined as Instrument Flight
> > Rules. If what you are
> > >saying is true and you
> > >
> > >substituted the definition of IFR conditions for
> > IFR, then FAR 61.3 would
> > >read:
> > >
> > >No person may act as pilot in command of a civil
> > aircraft "under weather
> > >conditions
> > >
> > >below the minimum for flight under visual flight
> > rules" or in in weather
> > >conditions
> > >
> > >less than the minimums prescribed for VFR
> > flight....
> > >
> > >Which would be saying the same thing twice which
> > doesn't make any sense.
> > >
> > >IFR conditions = IMC. IFR alone does not imply
> > IMC.
> > >
> > >Phil
> > >
> > >RV8A - Fuse
> > >
> > >
> > >---------------------------------
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>__________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 1000 FPM climb at 17,500' |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht
Ok, I should have thought for a few seconds before sending that, as I try to be
nice. But the argument is silly and it has already run its course once.
--- Terry Watson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson"
>
> Hey! This is an interesting discussion. If you don't like it, don't read
> it. Be nice.
>
> Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9 Flight Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht
I got to fly left-seat in an RV-9 last weekend for almost an hour. I will post
my experience here as requested by a couple guys.
Me: ~290 hour PP-SEL-IA. Flown nothing but Cessnas except for a brief RV-10
demo flight and an hour or so in an RV-7A on another occasion.
This isn't really intended to be a 7 vs 9 comparison, though I'll point out
things that I noticed along those lines. My experiences with the two aircraft
are both pretty limited and separated by nearly a month as well.
The gentleman I flew with is based at OSH and was cool enough to give me the
left seat (he's a CFI and comfortable on the right). Since the bird is a
taildragger and this was my first time so much as sitting in a tailwheel
aircraft, it was a given that he'd be doing the landings.
We took of on 27 at OSH with winds 270@11G23. His plane is powered by an O-320
with two mags and the 72" Sensenich. We had a good headwind, but boy did we
jump off the runway. Again, there are way too many variables here for a direct
comparison, but the 180hp 7A I flew in was no quicker off the runway with a
similar headwind. As for weight, myself & the owner together are about 400lb
and we had full fuel and no baggage.
Likewise, the climb was most impressive (to this C-152 owner). 1600+ fpm
sustained easily at 100-115 mph (the headwind shear was causing the ASI and VSI
to wag around some).
We leveled off at 2500' just below a really pretty roiling CU deck and headed
SW out of the OSH delta. The airplane accelerated very quickly and we pulled
back the throttle to 2400 RPM which gave us about 180mph indicated! I did not
really expect to see IAS that high at this low an alt. Pressure was 994 and
temp around 50 so I think we were pretty close to "standard day".
I tried some dutch rolls to ascertain roll rate and adverse yaw - the former
being slower than a 7, definitely, and the latter barely existent. The stick
force felt really, really nice to me - firm and very controllable. Very
similar on both axis too.
Before I new it we were 25nm from OSH. I tried some turns, turning 180 degrees
in one direction and then the other using about 30 degrees of bank. What can I
say? Honest, straight flying airplane, just as the 7 struck me. For some
reason I had a tendency to *gain* alt in the turns but I guess that is probably
attributable to nothing more than trim. (I did find the electric trim very
sensitive at cruise speed. I am glad I ordered manual trim.)
I wanted to test pitch stability by pitching up, releasing, and observing the
pitch oscillation period and the return to trimmed airspeed. I noticed that
when oscillating the plane picked up a lot of speed very quickly when nose
down. I was thinking at the time that pitch stability is weaker than a Cessna
but then realized that this higher speed increase is due to the much cleaner
airframe, nothing more. That can't be called weaker pitch stability.. it did
return to trimmed airspeed. However, it became obvious just how quickly the
airspeed can get away from you if you're not on it. A bit more work to fly in
IMC than what I'm used to, probably, but not by a wide margin.
Owen suggested we throttle back to see what the airplane is capable of at lower
throttle settings. I cannot remember the exact speed/RPM numbers (should have
written them down right away), but I believe we were seeing 130mph at about
2000 RPM. At that speed, the stick forces are somewhat lighter and the plane
feels a lot like a Cessna 152.
Next was power-off stalls. Owen demonstrated one without flaps which broke at
65mph. Next one with full flaps was about 45mph indicated. I then tried a
couple with flaps. The stalls are very honest with no wing drop and with a
*sharp* break - much sharper than a 152 or 172. I liked that. No mistaking
that stall, and it recovers with just the slightest release of back pressure.
We returned to OSH in light rain under this CU deck. I flew the pattern at
80mph, then 75mph on short final at which point Owen took it. About all I can
say about the landing was that it was very slow, the airplane floated a lot,
and the mains touched down several seconds before I was expecting it (good
thing I wasn't flying).
Well.. I did come away very stoked with the airplane. It's fast!! And it does
everything right. I cannot fault anything.. the pitch sensitivity is only a
direct consequence of the clean airframe and so it would be silly to expect
anything else. If I had to compare the 9 to the two other RVs I've flown, it's
definitely closer to the 10 in stick forces and roll rates. I think the 10 is
heavier on the stick (it is for sure in pitch) but that was 3 months ago for me
now. I'm sure that's no coincidence - these are the non-aerobatic, pure XC
RVs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bahama bound |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan
Jason Sneed wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed
>
> I am going to fly my -6 to the Bahamas next month. Can someone give
> me a place to start as far as some paperwork I need to fill out. It
> sounds like the best place to leave from and come back into the
> country is Fort Pierce. I there are some hoops I have to jump through
> before I fly.
>
Jason, here is an article written by TVRVBG'er Jeff Crabb about his RV
Bahama trip planning:
http://www.tvrvbg.org/bahamas.htm
Enjoy your trip!!
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall(at)enid.org> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephanie Marshall"
Hi everyone,
Just to let y'all (Oklahoma must be rubbing off on me) know we have reached the
priming and then some on our RV-8 Empennage. Check it out and let me know what
you think so far :~)
Cheers,
Stephanie
www.rv-8a.4t.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Why you need to be IFR quailified in the IFR system |
--> RV-List message posted by:
Paul:
I could not agree more. Why are we having this conversation at all? If you want
to file IFR flight plans or fly in Class A airspace get an instrument rating.
Pilots flying without the proper training, rating'(s) or clearance is not new
either, unfortunately.
Jerry and Ron, I don't think any one is saying private pilots cant be professional
in attitude or skill. The fact is a RV has a hard time even getting to 18,000
(efficiently), regardless of pilot rating or equipment.
As far as O2 that it moot, since it would be hard to operate with hypoxia at 18,000
feet without it, and it is required above 14,000 feet anyway, as req by the
"technocrats" as you say it.
Please consider what effect you have on the system (ATC, fast commercial traffic)
when attempting to merge into the fast lane. It is your right, but please get
the training and rating before getting into this area, IFR flight rules and
procedures. An IFR rating will make you a better and safer pilot.
Why 18,000 class A airspace? In a normally aspirated plane, 18,000 feet is the
limit for any thought of efficient operation in a RV from my experience and calculations.
Unless you have a turbocharger, FL180 is sliding down the backside
of the efficiency curve. There is no magic up there for an RV, except speed and
range will start to decay. Not sure what the highest MEA or MOCA is for low-altitude
airways in the US, but none require flying above FL180. Above FL180
they are called Jet-ways for a reason.
As Paul said, if you file a IFR flight plan or wounder up Class A and can't comply
with ATC instructions because you are not IFR rated, you will get the your
%$@# whacked.
If you want to flight test to high altitude for experimentation you may be able
to get a waver from the FAA, in a specific location and time frame. These wavers
are given to gliders, model rockets all the time.
Cheers George CFI(I)-MEI, ATP, RV-7 (pounding rivets)
===================================
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 12:03:35 -0700
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing"
I can not believe this is a discussion at all. It is blatantly obvious that
you need to be instrument rated to fly on an IFR flight plan. As you
mentioned, you may or may not be in the clouds. The don't know, and don't
care who is IMC or who is not (unless it is safety related of course). You
could be vectored, diverted, etc right into the clouds. What are you going
to say, "uh, unable, I'm not instrument rated" You would immediately be
requested to copy down a phone number, remain VFR, and make contact when
on
the ground.
Bottom line is, YES, you have to be instrument rated, current, in the
category and class of aircraft to be flown to fly PIC IFR. IFR is NOT in
the clouds. It's the set of rules that we fly by, and you MUST be
appropriately rated to fly by those rules.
Paul Besing, CFII
RV-6A Sold
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 12:03:35 -0700
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer
Marty Helller wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Marty Helller"
>
>Having an IFR ticket means you have the knowledge base and flying skills
>necessary to operate in the IFR system. Controllers sitting in radar rooms
>don't know if you're in the clouds or not...they just know that you have
(or
>should have) the ability and proficiency to operate in the system. Class
A
>airspace is an area where it is expected that only the professional aviators
>fly. Most private pilots don't have the equipment to get up that high
>(oxygen or pressurized and either turbo charged, or a turboprop). So the
>issue isn't weather, it's rules.
>
>While this isn't the official FAA answer, it will be if FAA inquiry line
>manager sends it to my cubicle.
>
>Marty Heller
>Controller, CFI, RV-7 builder
>
>
>
I would hope that all of us flying are professional aviators. :-) As a
CFI I have to question your
statement that most private pilots don't have the equipment to get up
that high. You make it sound like a
Private Pilots don't quite have what it takes to be in that airspace. As
A CFI you should know that
you can be a Private Pilot and still be IFR rated. I know many Private
Pilots with IFR ratings and Twins that
fly that high. I know of three RVs on my airport that have oxygen and
probably more do that I don't know about.
Jerry
do not archive
=======================
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 12:03:35 -0700
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee system
> I know of three RVs on my airport that have oxygen and
>probably more do that I don't know about.
I have O2 and because meanie technocrats have conspired to take
away some of MY airspace I will get my instrument rating so I can
fly up there...even if only for 10 minutes going from Meadowlake
to Greeley.
Ron
---------------------------------
Have fun online with music videos, cool games, IM & more. Check it out!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:pitot tubes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob
I do. Just put in a T fitting and connect to both. I use the Dynon D-10
and the RMI Micromonitor.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
At 12:07 AM 5/17/05, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice"
>
>Hi all
>
>Can anyone tell me if you can run two different airspeed indicators from the
>same pitot tube.
>
>Thanks,
>Paul RV-8 QB
>Working on wings
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Alexander, Don" <Don.Alexander(at)astenjohnson.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Vents
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Alexander, Don"
> >
> >
> >
> Do any of you know where I can find a panel-mounted air vent that would fit in
a standard 2 =BC" instrument hole?
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Don
> >
> >
> >
> Messages originating from AstenJohnson, Inc. e-mail servers are scanned for viruses
and other threats prior to delivery using e-mail security services powered
by MessageLabs Inc.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brett Hahn" <abakerson(at)zianet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 Flight Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brett Hahn"
There is an in-depth article of the RV-9A done by the CAFE Foundation in the
May issue of Experimental Aircraft Technology Magazine.
www.extechmag.com
Brett
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Folbrecht" <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-9 Flight Report
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht
>
> I got to fly left-seat in an RV-9 last weekend for almost an hour. I will
post
> my experience here as requested by a couple guys.
>
> Me: ~290 hour PP-SEL-IA. Flown nothing but Cessnas except for a brief
RV-10
> demo flight and an hour or so in an RV-7A on another occasion.
>
> This isn't really intended to be a 7 vs 9 comparison, though I'll point
out
> things that I noticed along those lines. My experiences with the two
aircraft
> are both pretty limited and separated by nearly a month as well.
>
> The gentleman I flew with is based at OSH and was cool enough to give me
the
> left seat (he's a CFI and comfortable on the right). Since the bird is a
> taildragger and this was my first time so much as sitting in a tailwheel
> aircraft, it was a given that he'd be doing the landings.
>
> We took of on 27 at OSH with winds 270@11G23. His plane is powered by an
O-320
> with two mags and the 72" Sensenich. We had a good headwind, but boy did
we
> jump off the runway. Again, there are way too many variables here for a
direct
> comparison, but the 180hp 7A I flew in was no quicker off the runway with
a
> similar headwind. As for weight, myself & the owner together are about
400lb
> and we had full fuel and no baggage.
>
> Likewise, the climb was most impressive (to this C-152 owner). 1600+ fpm
> sustained easily at 100-115 mph (the headwind shear was causing the ASI
and VSI
> to wag around some).
>
> We leveled off at 2500' just below a really pretty roiling CU deck and
headed
> SW out of the OSH delta. The airplane accelerated very quickly and we
pulled
> back the throttle to 2400 RPM which gave us about 180mph indicated! I did
not
> really expect to see IAS that high at this low an alt. Pressure was 994
and
> temp around 50 so I think we were pretty close to "standard day".
>
> I tried some dutch rolls to ascertain roll rate and adverse yaw - the
former
> being slower than a 7, definitely, and the latter barely existent. The
stick
> force felt really, really nice to me - firm and very controllable. Very
> similar on both axis too.
>
> Before I new it we were 25nm from OSH. I tried some turns, turning 180
degrees
> in one direction and then the other using about 30 degrees of bank. What
can I
> say? Honest, straight flying airplane, just as the 7 struck me. For some
> reason I had a tendency to *gain* alt in the turns but I guess that is
probably
> attributable to nothing more than trim. (I did find the electric trim
very
> sensitive at cruise speed. I am glad I ordered manual trim.)
>
> I wanted to test pitch stability by pitching up, releasing, and observing
the
> pitch oscillation period and the return to trimmed airspeed. I noticed
that
> when oscillating the plane picked up a lot of speed very quickly when nose
> down. I was thinking at the time that pitch stability is weaker than a
Cessna
> but then realized that this higher speed increase is due to the much
cleaner
> airframe, nothing more. That can't be called weaker pitch stability.. it
did
> return to trimmed airspeed. However, it became obvious just how quickly
the
> airspeed can get away from you if you're not on it. A bit more work to
fly in
> IMC than what I'm used to, probably, but not by a wide margin.
>
> Owen suggested we throttle back to see what the airplane is capable of at
lower
> throttle settings. I cannot remember the exact speed/RPM numbers (should
have
> written them down right away), but I believe we were seeing 130mph at
about
> 2000 RPM. At that speed, the stick forces are somewhat lighter and the
plane
> feels a lot like a Cessna 152.
>
> Next was power-off stalls. Owen demonstrated one without flaps which
broke at
> 65mph. Next one with full flaps was about 45mph indicated. I then tried
a
> couple with flaps. The stalls are very honest with no wing drop and with
a
> *sharp* break - much sharper than a 152 or 172. I liked that. No
mistaking
> that stall, and it recovers with just the slightest release of back
pressure.
>
> We returned to OSH in light rain under this CU deck. I flew the pattern
at
> 80mph, then 75mph on short final at which point Owen took it. About all I
can
> say about the landing was that it was very slow, the airplane floated a
lot,
> and the mains touched down several seconds before I was expecting it (good
> thing I wasn't flying).
>
> Well.. I did come away very stoked with the airplane. It's fast!! And it
does
> everything right. I cannot fault anything.. the pitch sensitivity is only
a
> direct consequence of the clean airframe and so it would be silly to
expect
> anything else. If I had to compare the 9 to the two other RVs I've flown,
it's
> definitely closer to the 10 in stick forces and roll rates. I think the
10 is
> heavier on the stick (it is for sure in pitch) but that was 3 months ago
for me
> now. I'm sure that's no coincidence - these are the non-aerobatic, pure
XC
> RVs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-9 Flight Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht
A much more thorough and professional report than mine, I'm sure. This looks
like a mag I'd want to subscribe to.
do not archive
--- Brett Hahn wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brett Hahn"
>
> There is an in-depth article of the RV-9A done by the CAFE Foundation in the
> May issue of Experimental Aircraft Technology Magazine.
>
> www.extechmag.com
>
> Brett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Right on........ |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN"
8*)....:
)................ KABONG
Do Not Archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen"
>
>
Ballonius Airelious. The bird was monstrous in size with an teardrop
silhouette and girth of as much as 30'-50'.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Noisy Airplanes and Altitude |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Ochs
It's funny but I think there is something about things in the sky that
float in general... If you ever want to see an animal flip out, bring a
helium balloon into a room that has parrots or parakeets or something
similar in it... my dog really doesn't like helium balloons either, but
she's never seen one of the big ones in the sky so I don't know what she
would do about that. Probably complain to the airport commision (she's a
bit of a whiner sometimes;)
James
Konrad L. Werner wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner"
>
>"...Ya can't get much quieter than a hot air balloon..."
>
>
>>That is unless the fire spewing propane burners are on.<
>>
>>
>
>My two dogs can pinpoint a hot air balloon from quite a distance just by sound,
before you can even see them.
>
>But you are right, some anti-aviators just need something to bitch about.
>
>Do Not Archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: JOHN STARN
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 4:21 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Noisy Airplanes and Altitude
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN"
>
> Forgot to add on my last post.
> We had a woman complaining to the newspaper and Town Council about a hot air
> balloon that flew "low" over her trailer & her dog (she alleged it was the
> dog) wet the carpet from fear. Balloon was above 1000agl but she wanted ALL
> flights stopped. It's just a sad fact of life, some people JUST need
> something to BITCH about.
> APV HRII N561FS KABONG 8*) Do Not Archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Noisy Airplanes and Altitude
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol
> >
> > Even if your airplane made zero noise, the airport neighbors would STILL
> > want to close the airport,
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself
at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:pitot tubes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell"
Hi Paul,
In short the answer to your question is; yes {[;-)
In most cases all the devices that require the use of a pitot tube are
manifolded to the same pitot / static system. In many cases the number of
devices can include redundant information sources such as a Dynon EFIS,
Rocky mountain instruments u'Encoder, and a "steam gage" altimeter and or
airspeed among others.
In the above example the altitude and airspeed are displayed in three
different forms; graphic, digital and analog.
So then, that could then include having two airspeed or altitude instruments
(separate instrument panel for co-pilot) or what have you?
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List:pitot tubes
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice"
>
> Hi all
>
> Can anyone tell me if you can run two different airspeed indicators from
> the
> same pitot tube.
>
> Thanks,
> Paul RV-8 QB
> Working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve&Anita Nyman" <nyman(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon Panel Question? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve&Anita Nyman"
Yes, you will need an additional magnetic compass. I not only have a Dynon with
the remote EDC, but also the Chelton Sierra Flight System SV EFIS. When the
DAR came for the inspection (Jan 20, 2005), I did not have the magnetic compass
installed. One the first things he asked was, where is your mag compass?
I pointed out the Dynon and the dual Chelton display, but he said he had just
come from a recent meeting with the FAA and a mag compass (i.e. wet compass,
not power required) is still required. I did have one handy and mounted on the
glare shield while he continued the inspection. I later removed it and carry
in my flight bag so it will be handy if I need to set it back on the glare shield.
Steve
N174AS, 88 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Noisy Airplanes and Altitude |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN"
She wouldn't be a "WhinnHymer" would she. 8*) KABONG
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Noisy Airplanes and Altitude
> --> RV-List message posted by: James Ochs
>
Probably complain to the airport commision (she's a
> bit of a whiner sometimes;)
>
> James
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com> |
"Hal White" ,
"Dennis White" ,
"Daryl Green"
| Subject: | Fw: Cussing at work |
--> RV-List message posted by:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jamie Cunningham" <cunningham.259(at)osu.edu>
; "Chanda Whalen" ; "Christie Hall"
; "Christopher Maupin" ;
"Chris White" ; "Dave White"
; "Glen and Tom" ; "Glen
Strobel" ; "Jamie Meisler" ; "Katie
Frambes" ; "Kristi Kent" ; "Mike
Johnson" ; "Mindy Purcell" ;
"Sara Maroscher"
Subject: FW: Cussing at work
> Subject: Cussing at work
>
> Dear Employees:
>
>>It has been brought to management's attention that some individuals
>>throughout the company have been using foul language during the
>>course of normal conversation with their co-workers. Due to
>>complaints received from some employees who may be easily offended,
>>this type of language will no longer be tolerated. We do however,
>>realize the critical importance of being able to accurately express
>>your feelings when communicating with co-workers. Therefore, a list
>>of 18 New and Innovative "TRY SAYING" phrases have been provided so
>>that proper exchange of ideas and information can continue in an
>>effective manner.
>>
>>
>>1) TRY SAYING: I think you could use more training.
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: You don't know what the f___ you're doing.
>>
>>2) TRY SAYING: She's an aggressive go-getter.
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: She's a ball-busting b__ch.
>>
>>3) TRY SAYING: Perhaps I can work late.
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: And when the f___ do you expect me to do this?
>>
>>4) TRY SAYING: I'm certain that isn't feasible.
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: No f______ way.
>>
>>5) TRY SAYING: Really?
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: You've got to be sh__ing me!
>>
>>6) TRY SAYING: Perhaps you should check with...
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: Tell someone who gives a sh__.
>>
>>7) TRY SAYING: I wasn't involved in the project.
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: It's not my f_cking problem.
>>
>>8) TRY SAYING: That's interesting.
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: What the f_ck ?
>>
>>9) TRY SAYING: I'm not sure this can be implemented.
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: This sh_t won't work.
>>
>>10) TRY SAYING: I'll try to schedule that.
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: Why the h___ didn't you tell me sooner?
>>
>>11) TRY SAYING: He's not familiar with the issues.
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: He's got his head up his a__.
>>
>>12) TRY SAYING: Excuse me, sir?
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: Eat sh__ and die.
>>
>>13) TRY SAYING: So you weren't happy with it?
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: Kiss my a__.
>>
>>14) TRY SAYING: I'm a bit overloaded at the moment.
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: F___ it, I'm on salary.
>>
>>15) TRY SAYING: I don't think you understand.
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: Shove it up your a__.
>>
>>16) TRY SAYING: I love a challenge.
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: This job sucks.
>>
>>17) TRY SAYING: You want me to take care of that?
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: Who the h___ died and made you boss?
>>
>>18 ) TRY SAYING: He's somewhat insensitive.
>>
>>INSTEAD OF: He's a pr_ck.
>>
>>
>>Thank You,
>>
>>Management
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Find the LOWEST PRICES on books at http://www.campusi.com !
> Check your SchoolEmail at http://www.campusi.com/email
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Will Lexel "run" or "flatten out" as it dries or can you fill large gaps and count
on it staying there?
I need to fill the gaps under my windscreen. I could mix a very thick slurry of
microballoons/epoxy but I don't think it adheres as well as the Lexel does when
it's all said and done.
Also, what's the preferred way to make the windscreen fairing? Put tape underneath
so you can take the whole fairing off and polish it off before final installation
or build it up and finish it off without ever taking it off and hope
you don't scratch up the canopy or fuselage top skin?
thx,
Will Lexel "run" or "flatten out" as it driesor can you fill large gaps and count
on it staying there?
I need to fill the gaps under my windscreen. I could mix a very thickslurry of
microballoons/epoxy but I don't think it adheres as well as the Lexel does when
it's all said and done.
Also, what's the preferred way to make the windscreen fairing? Put tape underneath
so you can take the wholefairing off and polish it off before final installation
or build it up and finish it off without ever taking it off and hope you
don't scratch up the canopy or fuselage top skin?
thx,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com (RV yahoo)
| Subject: | Lexel and Windscreen Fairing |
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Will Lexel "run" or "flatten out" as it dries or can you fill large gaps and count
on it staying there?
I need to fill the gaps under my windscreen. I could mix a very thick slurry of
microballoons/epoxy but I don't think it adheres as well as the Lexel does when
it's all said and done.
Also, what's the preferred way to make the windscreen fairing? Put tape underneath
so you can take the whole fairing off and polish it off before final installation
or build it up and finish it off without ever taking it off and hope
you don't scratch up the canopy or fuselage top skin?
thx,
Lucky
Will Lexel "run" or "flatten out" as it dries or can you fill large gaps and
count on it staying there?
I need to fill the gaps under my windscreen. I could mix a very thick slurry of
microballoons/epoxy but I don't think it adheres as well as the Lexel does when
it's all said and done.
Also, what's the preferred way to make the windscreen fairing? Put tape underneath
so you can take the whole fairing off and polish it off before final installation
or build it up and finish it off without ever taking it off and hope you
don't scratch up the canopy or fuselage top skin?
thx,
Lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop balancing (from the FlyRotary list) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
So what did you see???
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: Prop balancing (from the FlyRotary list)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube
>
> I saw this on the FlyRotary discussion list and thought this
> would be of interest to everyone. It is a very clever and inexpensive way
> to balance your prop:
>
>
> Cheers!
>
> Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer(at)iserv.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank leak testing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer"
A question from a first-timer to the experienced folks out there in RV Land. I'm
currently pressure testing my first tank with a manometer. I started on the
9th of May and the level on the open end of the tube has varied up and down
in about a 5-inch range (it's currently in about the middle of that range - about
a 23 inch difference between the column heights). My guess is this is primarily
caused by barometric pressure and temp but my question is: when do you
call it a day and say definitively the tank doesn't leak? I'm beginning to feel
it's safe after 8 days, but want to get educated opinions. Pretty soon I'll
have to take into account evaporation of the water in the tube!
Doug Fischer
RV-9A 90706 Wings
Jenison, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Panel Question? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne
Even for VFR only I suppose you need to have a backup compass with your Dynon.
If the Dynon failed, an unlikely event if it has run for 128 hours, and you had
no backup compass then you would not meet the requirements for VFR flight.
However, if you had a maximum simple VFR machine and the mag compass leaked all
its juice you would be just as bad off. Morever, you might have a fire hazard.
One wonders if the FAA isn't really just an old analog computer.
hal
RV6a with Dynon D10A and a leaky compass.
Steve&Anita Nyman wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve&Anita Nyman"
Yes, you will need an additional magnetic compass. I not only have a Dynon with
the remote EDC, but also the Chelton Sierra Flight System SV EFIS. When the DAR
came for the inspection (Jan 20, 2005), I did not have the magnetic compass
installed. One the first things he asked was, where is your mag compass? I pointed
out the Dynon and the dual Chelton display, but he said he had just come
from a recent meeting with the FAA and a mag compass (i.e. wet compass, not power
required) is still required. I did have one handy and mounted on the glare
shield while he continued the inspection. I later removed it and carry in my
flight bag so it will be handy if I need to set it back on the glare shield.
Steve
N174AS, 88 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank leak testing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
In a message dated 5/17/2005 8:40:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dfischer(at)iserv.net writes:
My guess is this is primarily caused by barometric pressure and temp but my
question is: when do you call it a day and say definitively the tank doesn't
leak? I'm beginning to feel it's safe after 8 days, but want to get
educated opinions. Pretty soon I'll have to take into account evaporation of
the
water in the tube!
======================================
It's soup already. You are seeing the diurnal effects of temperature. A
simple few hour test is all that's required. You have gone well past that.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 744hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank leak testing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Saylor"
Doug,
You should be fine. We use the digital pressure sensor shown here:
http://www.aircraftersllc.com/projects/pressGauge/index.htm
If it reads OK overnight we call it good. It shows ups and downs in
pressure as the temperature changes, even just a few degrees.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
831-722-9141
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Douglas A. Fischer
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Tank leak testing
--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer"
A question from a first-timer to the experienced folks out there in RV Land.
I'm currently pressure testing my first tank with a manometer. I started on
the 9th of May and the level on the open end of the tube has varied up and
down in about a 5-inch range (it's currently in about the middle of that
range - about a 23 inch difference between the column heights). My guess is
this is primarily caused by barometric pressure and temp but my question is:
when do you call it a day and say definitively the tank doesn't leak? I'm
beginning to feel it's safe after 8 days, but want to get educated opinions.
Pretty soon I'll have to take into account evaporation of the water in the
tube!
Doug Fischer
RV-9A 90706 Wings
Jenison, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank leak testing |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
When do you call it a day? After you've flown for a couple of hours and shaken
the whole friggin' airframe to near pieces with your lycosaur and and beginner
landings then if you don't develop any weeps and outright leaks you're probably
ok. :-)
do not archive
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 5/17/2005 8:40:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> dfischer(at)iserv.net writes:
>
> My guess is this is primarily caused by barometric pressure and temp but my
> question is: when do you call it a day and say definitively the tank doesn't
> leak? I'm beginning to feel it's safe after 8 days, but want to get
> educated opinions. Pretty soon I'll have to take into account evaporation of
> the
> water in the tube!
>
>
> =======================================
>
> It's soup already. You are seeing the diurnal effects of temperature. A
> simple few hour test is all that's required. You have gone well past that.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 744hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
>
>
>
>
When do you call it a day? After you've flown for a couple of hours and shaken
the whole friggin' airframe to near pieces with your lycosaur and and beginner
landingsthen if you don't develop any weeps and outright leaks you're probably
ok. :-)
do not archive
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
In a message dated 5/17/2005 8:40:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dfischer(at)iserv.net writes:
My guess is this is primarily caused by barometric pressure and temp but my
question is: when do you call it a day and say definitively the tank doesn't
leak? I'm beginning to feel it's safe after 8 days, but want to get
educated opinions. Pretty soon I'll have to take into account evaporation of
the
water in the tube!
=======================================
It's soup already. You are seeing the diurnal effects of temperature. A
simple few hour test is all that's required. You have gone well past that.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360
-A1A, C/S, Flying 744hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 69 Msgs - 05/17/05 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kdh347(at)aol.com
please remove me from all lists.
Thank U
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Tank leak testing |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
8 days?
Oh my god. Get that thing flying man.
Pretty soon I'll have to take into account evaporation of the
water in the tube! and pretty soon you will die from old age!
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Vanremog(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank leak testing
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
In a message dated 5/17/2005 8:40:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dfischer(at)iserv.net writes:
My guess is this is primarily caused by barometric pressure and temp
but my
question is: when do you call it a day and say definitively the tank
doesn't
leak? I'm beginning to feel it's safe after 8 days, but want to get
educated opinions. Pretty soon I'll have to take into account
evaporation of the
water in the tube!
======================================
It's soup already. You are seeing the diurnal effects of temperature.
A
simple few hour test is all that's required. You have gone well past
that.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 744hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dynon Panel Question? |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
Definitely a per/DAR thing.
I have been through 3 inspections with no whiskey compass. Other compass
devices giving magnetish heading have sufficed and are certainly more
reliable and accurate. Not that inspectors are asked to considered that
fact anyway. Its not their fault, it's a faulty process.
Mike
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve&Anita
Nyman
Subject: RV-List: Dynon Panel Question?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve&Anita Nyman"
Yes, you will need an additional magnetic compass. I not only have a
Dynon with the remote EDC, but also the Chelton Sierra Flight System SV
EFIS. When the DAR came for the inspection (Jan 20, 2005), I did not
have the magnetic compass installed. One the first things he asked was,
where is your mag compass? I pointed out the Dynon and the dual Chelton
display, but he said he had just come from a recent meeting with the FAA
and a mag compass (i.e. wet compass, not power required) is still
required. I did have one handy and mounted on the glare shield while he
continued the inspection. I later removed it and carry in my flight bag
so it will be handy if I need to set it back on the glare shield.
Steve
N174AS, 88 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Bendix Servo Adjustments |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
"Solberg, Scott"
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
Thanks for the great reply Mahlon.
I have fwd to the list for future reference.
And thanks for all your work on this and other lists. You have been a
tremendous resource.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Mahlon_Russell(at)teledyne.com [mailto:Mahlon_Russell(at)teledyne.com]
Subject: Bendix Servo Adjustments
Hi, There are no field adjustments to the servo for anything other then
idle speed and mixture. There is an idle speed screw on the side of the
servo where the throttle control cable hooks up. In faster out
slower. set for 6-700 RPM warmed up. To adjust the mixture you will note
a turnbuckle arrangement linkage connecting the throttle shaft to a
mixture arm on the servo. This arrangement has two rectangular blocks
with a serrated wheel in the center. the wheel is turnable and IS
prevented from turning by a spring stretched across the serrations. If
you looked at this wheel as the head of a bolt turning the head of the
bolt toward the throttle plate will make the engine richer and away from
the plate will make it leaner. If that doesn't make sense , look closely
at the blocks of the turnbuckle, one of them will have a "R" and an
arrow on it. turning the wheel in the direction of the arrow will make
it richer. set for 25 rpm rise when slowly leaning the engine out at
idle rpm. making it richer will increase the rise and leaner will
decrease the rise. once you have the proper rise. quickly accelerate the
engine , if it will accelerate smoothly without hesitation you are all
set. if not enrichen the idle mixture until it will. double check the
speed and you should be all set. If you need any adjustments to fuel
flow at power, that must be done on a flow bench and isn't field
adjustable.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
1-800-624-6680 ext.305
www.mattituck.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 1000 FPM climb at 17,500' (Apology) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht
> Oh good god read the whole thread and knock this crap off. This is total
> nonsense!!
>
> do not archive
I need to apologize to the list and to Mr. Robertson for this post. It was
uncalled for and not appropriate.
One of my peeves has always been 'net rudeness and especially people who's
balls seem much larger behind a keyboard than in person. I'm not one of those
people; I just fired-off a quick reply without thinking.
The thing is that the issue does turn out to have some nuances I hadn't
considered and is not as cut-and-dried and I had believed. So, I learned a
little something myself.
I thought the apology ought to be distributed as widely as the original
comment, so here it is. I'll be more careful in the future.
Let's please not ressurrect the thread, though. :->
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank leak testing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone
Doug...
I think you are good to go.. I tested mine the same way (manometer) for four hours.
No leaks!
Chris Stone
RV-8 x two
Newberg, OR
--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer"
A question from a first-timer to the experienced folks out there in RV Land. I'm
currently pressure testing my first tank with a manometer. I started on the
9th of May and the level on the open end of the tube has varied up and down
in about a 5-inch range (it's currently in about the middle of that range - about
a 23 inch difference between the column heights). My guess is this is primarily
caused by barometric pressure and temp but my question is: when do you
call it a day and say definitively the tank doesn't leak? I'm beginning to feel
it's safe after 8 days, but want to get educated opinions. Pretty soon I'll
have to take into account evaporation of the water in the tube!
Doug Fischer
RV-9A 90706 Wings
Jenison, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Cussing at work |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall"
How does this post fit into the RV scheme?
tony marshall
rv6
polson, mt
----- Original Message -----
From: <dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com>
White" ; "Dennis White" ;
"Daryl Green"
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Cussing at work
> --> RV-List message posted by:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jamie Cunningham" <cunningham.259(at)osu.edu>
> To: "Amanda Moore-Johnson" ; "Bret Wiegman"
> ; "Chanda Whalen" ; "Christie Hall"
> ; "Christopher Maupin" ;
> "Chris White" ; "Dave White"
> ; "Glen and Tom" ; "Glen
> Strobel" ; "Jamie Meisler" ;
> "Katie
> Frambes" ; "Kristi Kent" ;
> "Mike
> Johnson" ; "Mindy Purcell" ;
> "Sara Maroscher"
> Subject: FW: Cussing at work
>
>
>> Subject: Cussing at work
>>
>> Dear Employees:
>>
>>>It has been brought to management's attention that some individuals
>>>throughout the company have been using foul language during the
>>>course of normal conversation with their co-workers. Due to
>>>complaints received from some employees who may be easily offended,
>>>this type of language will no longer be tolerated. We do however,
>>>realize the critical importance of being able to accurately express
>>>your feelings when communicating with co-workers. Therefore, a list
>>>of 18 New and Innovative "TRY SAYING" phrases have been provided so
>>>that proper exchange of ideas and information can continue in an
>>>effective manner.
>>>
>>>
>>>1) TRY SAYING: I think you could use more training.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: You don't know what the f___ you're doing.
>>>
>>>2) TRY SAYING: She's an aggressive go-getter.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: She's a ball-busting b__ch.
>>>
>>>3) TRY SAYING: Perhaps I can work late.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: And when the f___ do you expect me to do this?
>>>
>>>4) TRY SAYING: I'm certain that isn't feasible.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: No f______ way.
>>>
>>>5) TRY SAYING: Really?
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: You've got to be sh__ing me!
>>>
>>>6) TRY SAYING: Perhaps you should check with...
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: Tell someone who gives a sh__.
>>>
>>>7) TRY SAYING: I wasn't involved in the project.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: It's not my f_cking problem.
>>>
>>>8) TRY SAYING: That's interesting.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: What the f_ck ?
>>>
>>>9) TRY SAYING: I'm not sure this can be implemented.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: This sh_t won't work.
>>>
>>>10) TRY SAYING: I'll try to schedule that.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: Why the h___ didn't you tell me sooner?
>>>
>>>11) TRY SAYING: He's not familiar with the issues.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: He's got his head up his a__.
>>>
>>>12) TRY SAYING: Excuse me, sir?
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: Eat sh__ and die.
>>>
>>>13) TRY SAYING: So you weren't happy with it?
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: Kiss my a__.
>>>
>>>14) TRY SAYING: I'm a bit overloaded at the moment.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: F___ it, I'm on salary.
>>>
>>>15) TRY SAYING: I don't think you understand.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: Shove it up your a__.
>>>
>>>16) TRY SAYING: I love a challenge.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: This job sucks.
>>>
>>>17) TRY SAYING: You want me to take care of that?
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: Who the h___ died and made you boss?
>>>
>>>18 ) TRY SAYING: He's somewhat insensitive.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: He's a pr_ck.
>>>
>>>
>>>Thank You,
>>>
>>>Management
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ____________________________________________________________________
>> Find the LOWEST PRICES on books at http://www.campusi.com !
>> Check your SchoolEmail at http://www.campusi.com/email
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Bendix Servo Adjustments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
I took my red sharpie and traced the "R" arrow so I can see it with the
bottom cowl half on. You can just barely get your arm in there to adjust
the wheel with the bottom on, but its just about impossible to see the arrow
unless you mark it. Now if I had a memory I wouldn't have to do this,
but....
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
Subject: RV-List: RE: Bendix Servo Adjustments
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
>
>
> Thanks for the great reply Mahlon.
>
> I have fwd to the list for future reference.
>
>
> And thanks for all your work on this and other lists. You have been a
> tremendous resource.
>
>
> Mike
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mahlon_Russell(at)teledyne.com [mailto:Mahlon_Russell(at)teledyne.com]
> To: Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
> Subject: Bendix Servo Adjustments
>
>
> Hi, There are no field adjustments to the servo for anything other then
> idle speed and mixture. There is an idle speed screw on the side of the
> servo where the throttle control cable hooks up. In faster out
> slower. set for 6-700 RPM warmed up. To adjust the mixture you will note
> a turnbuckle arrangement linkage connecting the throttle shaft to a
> mixture arm on the servo. This arrangement has two rectangular blocks
> with a serrated wheel in the center. the wheel is turnable and IS
> prevented from turning by a spring stretched across the serrations. If
> you looked at this wheel as the head of a bolt turning the head of the
> bolt toward the throttle plate will make the engine richer and away from
> the plate will make it leaner. If that doesn't make sense , look closely
> at the blocks of the turnbuckle, one of them will have a "R" and an
> arrow on it. turning the wheel in the direction of the arrow will make
> it richer. set for 25 rpm rise when slowly leaning the engine out at
> idle rpm. making it richer will increase the rise and leaner will
> decrease the rise. once you have the proper rise. quickly accelerate the
> engine , if it will accelerate smoothly without hesitation you are all
> set. if not enrichen the idle mixture until it will. double check the
> speed and you should be all set. If you need any adjustments to fuel
> flow at power, that must be done on a flow bench and isn't field
> adjustable.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Mahlon
>
> 1-800-624-6680 ext.305
> www.mattituck.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Prop balancing, second attempt |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube
Here is the link:
<http://www.mooneymite.com/articles/favrholdtgbalancingprops.htm>http://www.mooneymite.com/articles/favrholdtgbalancingprops.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner"
It sure doesn't !!! Let's dangle the clown from the nearest tree.
do not archive ever
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Marshall
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: Cussing at work
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall"
How does this post fit into the RV scheme?
tony marshall
rv6
polson, mt
----- Original Message -----
From: <dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com>
To: ; ; ; "Hal
White" ; "Dennis White" ;
"Daryl Green"
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Cussing at work
> --> RV-List message posted by:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jamie Cunningham" <cunningham.259(at)osu.edu>
> To: "Amanda Moore-Johnson" ; "Bret Wiegman"
> ; "Chanda Whalen" ; "Christie Hall"
> ; "Christopher Maupin" ;
> "Chris White" ; "Dave White"
> ; "Glen and Tom" ; "Glen
> Strobel" ; "Jamie Meisler" ;
> "Katie
> Frambes" ; "Kristi Kent" ;
> "Mike
> Johnson" ; "Mindy Purcell" ;
> "Sara Maroscher"
> Subject: FW: Cussing at work
>
>
>> Subject: Cussing at work
>>
>> Dear Employees:
>>
>>>It has been brought to management's attention that some individuals
>>>throughout the company have been using foul language during the
>>>course of normal conversation with their co-workers. Due to
>>>complaints received from some employees who may be easily offended,
>>>this type of language will no longer be tolerated. We do however,
>>>realize the critical importance of being able to accurately express
>>>your feelings when communicating with co-workers. Therefore, a list
>>>of 18 New and Innovative "TRY SAYING" phrases have been provided so
>>>that proper exchange of ideas and information can continue in an
>>>effective manner.
>>>
>>>
>>>1) TRY SAYING: I think you could use more training.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: You don't know what the f___ you're doing.
>>>
>>>2) TRY SAYING: She's an aggressive go-getter.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: She's a ball-busting b__ch.
>>>
>>>3) TRY SAYING: Perhaps I can work late.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: And when the f___ do you expect me to do this?
>>>
>>>4) TRY SAYING: I'm certain that isn't feasible.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: No f______ way.
>>>
>>>5) TRY SAYING: Really?
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: You've got to be sh__ing me!
>>>
>>>6) TRY SAYING: Perhaps you should check with...
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: Tell someone who gives a sh__.
>>>
>>>7) TRY SAYING: I wasn't involved in the project.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: It's not my f_cking problem.
>>>
>>>8) TRY SAYING: That's interesting.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: What the f_ck ?
>>>
>>>9) TRY SAYING: I'm not sure this can be implemented.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: This sh_t won't work.
>>>
>>>10) TRY SAYING: I'll try to schedule that.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: Why the h___ didn't you tell me sooner?
>>>
>>>11) TRY SAYING: He's not familiar with the issues.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: He's got his head up his a__.
>>>
>>>12) TRY SAYING: Excuse me, sir?
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: Eat sh__ and die.
>>>
>>>13) TRY SAYING: So you weren't happy with it?
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: Kiss my a__.
>>>
>>>14) TRY SAYING: I'm a bit overloaded at the moment.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: F___ it, I'm on salary.
>>>
>>>15) TRY SAYING: I don't think you understand.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: Shove it up your a__.
>>>
>>>16) TRY SAYING: I love a challenge.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: This job sucks.
>>>
>>>17) TRY SAYING: You want me to take care of that?
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: Who the h___ died and made you boss?
>>>
>>>18 ) TRY SAYING: He's somewhat insensitive.
>>>
>>>INSTEAD OF: He's a pr_ck.
>>>
>>>
>>>Thank You,
>>>
>>>Management
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ____________________________________________________________________
>> Find the LOWEST PRICES on books at http://www.campusi.com !
>> Check your SchoolEmail at http://www.campusi.com/email
>>
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Bendix servo adjustemnts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek"
Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 10:34:41 -0700
Subject: RV-List: Bendix servo adjustemnts
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
Can someone point me to a "how to adjust a bendix servo" article or
diagram?
Im helping a buddy adjust his on a 540. Needs mixture adjustments.
Thanks
Mike
Hi Mike-
Precision has a (free) DVD on the subject, as well as MX and
troubleshooting manuals.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cussing at work |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN"
Say: Maybe we should consider all the available options.
Instead of: > It sure doesn't !!! Let's dangle the clown from the nearest
tree.
>How does this post fit into the RV scheme?
It could just bring on a chuckle and/or a smile to some of us.
Fits the "develop camaraderie" within the RV community.
(Refer RV-list guidelines)
From: Tony Marshall
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: Cussing at work
Note trimmed post & Do Not Archive
KABONG 8*)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Mount Part Deux |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch"
Hi All,
Over the past weekend we FINALLY installed a new engine mount & gear legs
onto the new RV6. We swapped out an O-320 conical mount and installed a new
dynafocal 360 mount (this is on a taildragger).
Anyway, the reason for the post is several fold.
#1, the holes from the old mount (laid directly on top of the new mount) of
course didn't line up. The bottom center holes were the culprit, and only
off by about 1/32" inch, but enough to make it a pain! Since the holes were
already drilled in the previously flying plane, we had to "tweak" the new
mount to get the holes to line up.
#2, and THIS is the interesting one. Do any of you remember over the past
couple years where a more than one person were having / had cracks on the
very bottom of the engine mount where the gear legs attached?? There was
more than one person who had cracks all the way around that part of the gear
(below the bolt) right where the gear leg was inserted into the engine
mount. Anyway, the general response from Van's was that it must be due to
something other than the mount (like flying off bumpy grass strip or
something) and basically the mount was fine.
Well, guess what.....the new engine mount has some really hefty and nice
gussetts now welded EXACTLY onto that point of the mount. I looked on my
other RV6 (2002 model) and there is NO gussetts there, so it's something tht
just "appeared" in the past couple of years...don't know when, but that are
of the mount is now a hell of a lot stronger.
Just an FYI...I find it somewhat interesting that things like that just
magically appear.
Also, if anyone is planning a complete gear/mount retrofit to a flying RV6,
it's not entirely a fun project finding a way to support the entire plane
while trying to get the old one off and the new one on (especially when the
holes don't match up).
Last but not least, as comical relief...My -360 I'm installing came off a
Mooney, and I just removed that mount. What a wimpy, flimsy, little pice of
metal compared to the RV6 mount! The engine mount to airframe bolts are
only 1/4", and most of the mount tubing is tiny (1/2" or less)! Makes you
feel a LOT better about the RV's when the mount is laying next to that
Mooney thing :)
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
Do Not Archive
P.S., we now have a nice O-320 straight mount (TD) and matched gear legs
avalaible for someone that needs them! Write me off list if you're
interested. Otherwise, it's off to EBAY.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dsvs(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount Part Deux |
--> RV-List message posted by: dsvs(at)comcast.net
Stein,
So did you rtemove everything behind the firewall that was drilled and drill new
bottom holes of did you modify the mount. I just finished removing and replacing
all of the lower right side pieces behind the firewall because of a mistake
I made that ended up with one hole elongated . It was a bit of work but
worth it as the two bottom outer bolts take most of the stress from the landing
gear. Don
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch"
>
> Hi All,
>
> Over the past weekend we FINALLY installed a new engine mount & gear legs
> onto the new RV6. We swapped out an O-320 conical mount and installed a new
> dynafocal 360 mount (this is on a taildragger).
>
> Anyway, the reason for the post is several fold.
>
> #1, the holes from the old mount (laid directly on top of the new mount) of
> course didn't line up. The bottom center holes were the culprit, and only
> off by about 1/32" inch, but enough to make it a pain! Since the holes were
> already drilled in the previously flying plane, we had to "tweak" the new
> mount to get the holes to line up.
>
> #2, and THIS is the interesting one. Do any of you remember over the past
> couple years where a more than one person were having / had cracks on the
> very bottom of the engine mount where the gear legs attached?? There was
> more than one person who had cracks all the way around that part of the gear
> (below the bolt) right where the gear leg was inserted into the engine
> mount. Anyway, the general response from Van's was that it must be due to
> something other than the mount (like flying off bumpy grass strip or
> something) and basically the mount was fine.
>
> Well, guess what.....the new engine mount has some really hefty and nice
> gussetts now welded EXACTLY onto that point of the mount. I looked on my
> other RV6 (2002 model) and there is NO gussetts there, so it's something tht
> just "appeared" in the past couple of years...don't know when, but that are
> of the mount is now a hell of a lot stronger.
>
> Just an FYI...I find it somewhat interesting that things like that just
> magically appear.
>
> Also, if anyone is planning a complete gear/mount retrofit to a flying RV6,
> it's not entirely a fun project finding a way to support the entire plane
> while trying to get the old one off and the new one on (especially when the
> holes don't match up).
>
> Last but not least, as comical relief...My -360 I'm installing came off a
> Mooney, and I just removed that mount. What a wimpy, flimsy, little pice of
> metal compared to the RV6 mount! The engine mount to airframe bolts are
> only 1/4", and most of the mount tubing is tiny (1/2" or less)! Makes you
> feel a LOT better about the RV's when the mount is laying next to that
> Mooney thing :)
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> P.S., we now have a nice O-320 straight mount (TD) and matched gear legs
> avalaible for someone that needs them! Write me off list if you're
> interested. Otherwise, it's off to EBAY.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Mount Part Deux |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch"
Actually, we just used the old school RV building technique called "Make it
fit"....
While maybe not the best option, those of use who built these non self
assembling (tongue in cheek) RV's had to do that a bunch of times and are
surely familiar with all the subtle intricacies involved!
Basically all the holes were fine except for the bottome center ones (which
are always the ones that cause a pain in). They were about .032" too low.
So, we got some heavy duty "engine mount tweaking straps", othewise known as
ratchet cargo straps, and simple wrapped a couple of them around the engine
mount going from the bottom cross memeber around the top structure (which
has a LOT of metal in it), using the heavy points on top as the "pull
points". We then just ratcheted the straps tight until we ever so gently
pulled the bottom holes into alignment where then needed to be. Worked like
a charm! But...we still had to install some .020" shims between the mount
and the firewall (common on these installations) to get everything in order.
Cheers,
Stein.
P.S., the only thing we removed from the firewall was the center plate to
install the doghouse (stupid me...we should have done that the 1st time
around) like I did on the 1st -6.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of dsvs(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Mount Part Deux
--> RV-List message posted by: dsvs(at)comcast.net
Stein,
So did you rtemove everything behind the firewall that was drilled and drill
new bottom holes of did you modify the mount. I just finished removing and
replacing all of the lower right side pieces behind the firewall because of
a mistake I made that ended up with one hole elongated . It was a bit of
work but worth it as the two bottom outer bolts take most of the stress from
the landing gear. Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry Rhoads" <perryrhoads(at)ctnet.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Perry Rhoads"
I would like to buy a used Catto prop for my 0-320 150 hp RV-3. I am currently
using a 68x78 Sterba. I need the small 3/8 bolt holes.
Anybody have one to sell? Other props also considered.
Please reply by private email.
Perry
RV-3 N96GW
Illinois
do not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Injection Adjustments (this belongs in the archives |
many times...)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Philip Condon"
Subject: RV-List: RE: Bendix Servo Adjustments
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
>
>
> Thanks for the great reply Mahlon.
>
> I have fwd to the list for future reference.
>
>
> And thanks for all your work on this and other lists. You have been a
> tremendous resource.
>
>
> Mike
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mahlon_Russell(at)teledyne.com [mailto:Mahlon_Russell(at)teledyne.com]
Lean mixture rpm rise hesitation fuel injection servo bendix leaning
enrichen
Enrichment idle shutoff
(key words for future electronic searching of this text)
> To: Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
> Subject: Bendix Servo Adjustments
>
>
> Hi, There are no field adjustments to the servo for anything other then
> idle speed and mixture. There is an idle speed screw on the side of the
> servo where the throttle control cable hooks up. In faster out
> slower. set for 6-700 RPM warmed up. To adjust the mixture you will note
> a turnbuckle arrangement linkage connecting the throttle shaft to a
> mixture arm on the servo. This arrangement has two rectangular blocks
> with a serrated wheel in the center. the wheel is turnable and IS
> prevented from turning by a spring stretched across the serrations. If
> you looked at this wheel as the head of a bolt turning the head of the
> bolt toward the throttle plate will make the engine richer and away from
> the plate will make it leaner. If that doesn't make sense , look closely
> at the blocks of the turnbuckle, one of them will have a "R" and an
> arrow on it. turning the wheel in the direction of the arrow will make
> it richer. set for 25 rpm rise when slowly leaning the engine out at
> idle rpm. making it richer will increase the rise and leaner will
> decrease the rise. once you have the proper rise. quickly accelerate the
> engine , if it will accelerate smoothly without hesitation you are all
> set. if not enrichen the idle mixture until it will. double check the
> speed and you should be all set. If you need any adjustments to fuel
> flow at power, that must be done on a flow bench and isn't field
> adjustable.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Mahlon
>
> 1-800-624-6680 ext.305
> www.mattituck.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | RE: Prop ballancing article (reprint) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Philip Condon"
Clipped from the website so we have it in the archives for posterity.
This is clever and cheap. Reminds me of my cheap and clever bore scope
(Exterior door peephole glass, rubber grommet and a adjustable/focusable
flashlight ((name escapes me))
.......
On the topic of Prop Balancing, here is an inexpensive way to get a smoother
running engine. It was submitted by Ben Favrholdt, N66MX, of Porterville,
California. Note that he is talking about his wood propeller.
Cut a piece of aluminum, making a disk about 3 inches wide and 6 inches
long. Glue a suction cup on one side of the disk. You can use one from
Aircraft Spruce, P/N 13-00088 at $2.95. See photo below.
Next, attach a spring steel reed at the top end of the disk. A coping saw
blade will probably work okay. Attach an adjustable weight on the reed.
Mount the assembly by suction to the face of one of the instruments on the
panel.
In flight, you will see a deflection of the reed due to normal vibration. By
experimenting with different RPM's and weight positions on the reed, you
should be able to find a combination where there will be harmonic resonance,
where the reed will deflect to a much greater extent. Note these settings.
Now paint the outer two or three inches of one blade of the propeller.
Obviously, if the deflections are now greater than before, you painted the
heavier side of the prop. Now work on the other blade until you get minimum
deflection.
It seems simple, but it works. I used a spray can to paint, and doesn't take
much paint since there is a long arm and requires little weight to have an
effect.
I don't know if this will work on a metal prop because of the larger mass
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Newhall II" <renewhall2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank leak testing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Newhall II"
To whoever is about to test their tanks, the manometer
idea is good for knowing how much air pressure you're
putting in (approx 28 inches of water is about one
psi) but if you want to save the time and guess work
of wondering about barometric changes, just spray the
tank down with soapy water. You'll see the leaks
instantly. I found one leak at the BNC connector,
fixed it, and have had no more leaks with the
exception of the access plates.
On a side note, you might consider throwing away those
cork gaskets for the access plates and just proseal
the plates on. I used the cork and recently had seeps
after flying for a year. I have just re-installed
them with proseal.
Bob Newhall
RV7, Flying 90hrs
Boulder, CO
--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer"
>
A question from a first-timer to the experienced folks
out there in RV Land. I'm
currently pressure testing my first tank with a
manometer. I started on the
9th of May and the level on the open end of the tube
has varied up and down
in about a 5-inch range (it's currently in about the
middle of that range - about
a 23 inch difference between the column heights). My
guess is this is primarily
caused by barometric pressure and temp but my question
is: when do you
call it a day and say definitively the tank doesn't
leak? I'm beginning to feel
it's safe after 8 days, but want to get educated
opinions. Pretty soon I'll
have to take into account evaporation of the water in
the tube!
Doug Fischer
RV-9A 90706 Wings
Jenison, MI
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Prop ballancing article (reprint) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
The photo did not come through. It must be uploaded to someone's website
and displayed by clicking on the URL. I would like to see it if that can be
accomplished.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip Condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: RE: Prop ballancing article (reprint)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Philip Condon"
>
> Clipped from the website so we have it in the archives for posterity.
>
> This is clever and cheap. Reminds me of my cheap and clever bore scope
> (Exterior door peephole glass, rubber grommet and a adjustable/focusable
> flashlight ((name escapes me))
> .......
>
> On the topic of Prop Balancing, here is an inexpensive way to get a
> smoother
> running engine. It was submitted by Ben Favrholdt, N66MX, of Porterville,
> California. Note that he is talking about his wood propeller.
>
>
> Cut a piece of aluminum, making a disk about 3 inches wide and 6 inches
> long. Glue a suction cup on one side of the disk. You can use one from
> Aircraft Spruce, P/N 13-00088 at $2.95. See photo below.
> Next, attach a spring steel reed at the top end of the disk. A coping saw
> blade will probably work okay. Attach an adjustable weight on the reed.
> Mount the assembly by suction to the face of one of the instruments on the
> panel.
> In flight, you will see a deflection of the reed due to normal vibration.
> By
> experimenting with different RPM's and weight positions on the reed, you
> should be able to find a combination where there will be harmonic
> resonance,
> where the reed will deflect to a much greater extent. Note these settings.
> Now paint the outer two or three inches of one blade of the propeller.
> Obviously, if the deflections are now greater than before, you painted the
> heavier side of the prop. Now work on the other blade until you get
> minimum
> deflection.
> It seems simple, but it works. I used a spray can to paint, and doesn't
> take
> much paint since there is a long arm and requires little weight to have an
> effect.
> I don't know if this will work on a metal prop because of the larger mass
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | New Rattle Can Primer ?? Dupont 4115s Just FYI |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer"
Not to start this up but thought it might interest some to see the spec
sheet on a new rattle can self-etching primer by Dupont. It is supposedly
non-corrosive AND does have some corrosion inhibiting qualities. I tried
some this week and it works pretty well.
Shot some small parts, air dried about 15 minutes followed by Dupont Immron.
Came out slick! YMMV
See spec sheet link.
http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo/chromasyst
em/H-19469_A-4115S.pdf
Bill S
7a Ark
fuse/panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81(at)yahoo.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "R. Craig Chipley"
Anybody have a manual/wiring diagram for this radio?
Needed badly. Thanks, Craig
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Terra TPX 720 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
Hi Craig,
I have a Maintenance manual for the TX 760 D but not the TPX720. Don't
guess that would help.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Terra TPX 720
> --> RV-List message posted by: "R. Craig Chipley"
>
> Anybody have a manual/wiring diagram for this radio?
> Needed badly. Thanks, Craig
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Oliver" <brad(at)rv7factory.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Oliver"
I seem to remember seeing (on someone's web site) a cool way to hang the
plans that allowed the builder to flip pages easily, but I can't find it
again. Anybody know what I am talking about, or have another good way to
hang them (on wall)?
Thanks,
Brad
RV-7 Emp Kit Arrived Today - Waiting on Tools
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Hanger space needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco"
I will be moving Tweetybird (6a) to the san anton/austin area next week, I have
a couple leads, anyone else know of something availible, small induvidual, or
to share. Charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanger space needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
> I will be moving Tweetybird (6a) to the san anton/austin area next
> week, I have a couple leads, anyone else know of something availible,
> small induvidual, or to share. Charlie heathco
Have a look out in Lockhart - there's quite a community of RVs
there, and it's not real far from either Austin or San Antonails.
Houses are pretty cheap in Lockhart, too.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
do not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR
Brad -
Look here:
http://www.appaero.com/Pictures/Emp%20Pics/Rudder%20Pics/RudderSkinClecoed.J
PG
and here:
http://www.appaero.com/Pictures/Emp%20Pics/EmpFiberglass%20Pics/FileHSSkin.J
PG
I used some of the empennage packing to make a really big clipboard.
Spring-clamps would work just as well as the chart hanger to secure the
prints to the board. A strip of cardboard taped to the top protects the
prints distributes the pinch forces. The foot on the bottom helps to keep
it from sliding around when I want it on the bench instead of hanging on the
wall.
Do not archive.
Neal
>
I seem to remember seeing (on someone's web site) a cool way to hang the
plans that allowed the builder to flip pages easily, but I can't find it
again. Anybody know what I am talking about, or have another good way to
hang them (on wall)?
Thanks,
Brad
RV-7 Emp Kit Arrived Today - Waiting on Tools
<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco"
I ment to add re hanger needed, to reply to my email direct, and do not archive.
charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Gray Paint Code |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin"
List, Anyone have the Lycoming Engine Gray paint code handy? PPG or Dupont would
be just fine.
Thanks
in advance, Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A"
SNIP seem to remember seeing (on someone's web site) a cool way to hang
the
plans that allowed the builder to flip pages easily, but I can't find it
again. Anybody know what I am talking about, or have another good way
to
hang them (on wall)? SNIP
I have my plans on an old piece of junk that, after I cobbled it
together, looks like a small drafting table. Basically, I used an old
wheel rim, a piece of pipe and a 3' x 4' scrap of plywood to build it.
The bottom edge of the table has a lip to keep stuff from rolling off.
The plans are held to the top edge of the plywood with a few large
binder clips that you can get from Office Depot. It works very well.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/2003-09-17/rudder%20socket
%20filling.jpg the plans table is on the left side of the photo.
(Paste the link back together if it wraps onto two lines in your email
program. It is a GOOD link.)
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | new Aeroelectric Connection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
The new of AEROELECTRIC CONNECTION (revision 11) is now in stock. This is
the best manual available on how to design and install the electrical system
in your RV. Ask anybody who has ever built an RV. Bob Nuckoll's manual is
the bible.
http://www.buildersbooks.com/electrical_systems1.htm
Thanks,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
do not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | New Rattle Can Primer ?? Dupont 4115s Just FYI |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Hull, Don"
Bill, what color is the primer when after it dries?
Don Hull
RV-7 emp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer
Subject: RV-List: New Rattle Can Primer ?? Dupont 4115s Just FYI
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer"
-->
Not to start this up but thought it might interest some to see the spec
sheet on a new rattle can self-etching primer by Dupont. It is supposedly
non-corrosive AND does have some corrosion inhibiting qualities. I tried
some this week and it works pretty well.
Shot some small parts, air dried about 15 minutes followed by Dupont Immron.
Came out slick! YMMV
See spec sheet link.
http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo/chromasyst
em/H-19469_A-4115S.pdf
Bill S
7a Ark
fuse/panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | New Rattle Can Primer ?? Dupont 4115s Just FYI |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Hull, Don"
Bill, what color is the primer after it dries?
Don Hull
RV-7 emp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hull, Don
Subject: RE: RV-List: New Rattle Can Primer ?? Dupont 4115s Just FYI
--> RV-List message posted by: "Hull, Don"
Bill, what color is the primer when after it dries?
Don Hull
RV-7 emp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer
Subject: RV-List: New Rattle Can Primer ?? Dupont 4115s Just FYI
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer"
-->
Not to start this up but thought it might interest some to see the spec
sheet on a new rattle can self-etching primer by Dupont. It is supposedly
non-corrosive AND does have some corrosion inhibiting qualities. I tried
some this week and it works pretty well.
Shot some small parts, air dried about 15 minutes followed by Dupont Immron.
Came out slick! YMMV
See spec sheet link.
http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo/chromasyst
em/H-19469_A-4115S.pdf
Bill S
7a Ark
fuse/panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <paul(at)kitlog.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing"
Try this one. If I were to do it again, I'd make the zip ties (or whatever
you used to hang it with) longer to facilitate easy turning of the pages.)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/shop/theshop.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brad Oliver
Subject: RV-List: Hanging Plans
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Oliver"
I seem to remember seeing (on someone's web site) a cool way to hang the
plans that allowed the builder to flip pages easily, but I can't find it
again. Anybody know what I am talking about, or have another good way to
hang them (on wall)?
Thanks,
Brad
RV-7 Emp Kit Arrived Today - Waiting on Tools
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | New Rattle Can Primer ?? Dupont 4115s Just FYI |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer"
It's sort of a dark brownish green if that means anything. Let me know if
you want a picture.
Bill S
7a Ark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hull, Don
Subject: RE: RV-List: New Rattle Can Primer ?? Dupont 4115s Just FYI
--> RV-List message posted by: "Hull, Don"
Bill, what color is the primer when after it dries?
Don Hull
RV-7 emp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer
Subject: RV-List: New Rattle Can Primer ?? Dupont 4115s Just FYI
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer"
-->
Not to start this up but thought it might interest some to see the spec
sheet on a new rattle can self-etching primer by Dupont. It is supposedly
non-corrosive AND does have some corrosion inhibiting qualities. I tried
some this week and it works pretty well.
Shot some small parts, air dried about 15 minutes followed by Dupont Immron.
Came out slick! YMMV
See spec sheet link.
http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo/chromasyst
em/H-19469_A-4115S.pdf
Bill S
7a Ark
fuse/panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Oliver" <brad(at)rv7factory.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Oliver"
Paul,
Yes, that's the one I was thinking of! Thanks!
~Brad
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Subject: RE: RV-List: Hanging Plans
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing"
Try this one. If I were to do it again, I'd make the zip ties (or whatever
you used to hang it with) longer to facilitate easy turning of the pages.)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/shop/theshop.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brad Oliver
Subject: RV-List: Hanging Plans
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Oliver"
I seem to remember seeing (on someone's web site) a cool way to hang the
plans that allowed the builder to flip pages easily, but I can't find it
again. Anybody know what I am talking about, or have another good way to
hang them (on wall)?
Thanks,
Brad
RV-7 Emp Kit Arrived Today - Waiting on Tools
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Gray Paint Code |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON"
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Gray Paint Code
I have a can of Tempo Aviation Aircraft Engine Enamel. Has the number# A-219
Lycoming Gray
If that helps at all?
>List, Anyone have the Lycoming Engine Gray paint code handy? PPG or Dupont would
be just fine.
Thanks
in advance, Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | Checkoway Weather |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall"
A while ago, Dan introduced a really nice, concise, place from which to obtain weather information. I had forgotten how nice it was....and I for one really appreciate it....and of course I acknowledge all of the normal disclaimers. For those of you who haven't yet checked it out.... http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
Thanks Dan.
Tony Marshall
RV6
Polson, MT (yep!...in the clouds)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | possible -6A for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
I'm considering selling my 6A, but I'm not really sure what its worth. Its
got:
180 hours TT on the Airframe
0-360 A4M (1150 SMOH)
fixed prop
VFR panel with EI engine monitor
new Lightspeed ignition on one side, new slick mag on the other
good condition in and out
never damaged, always hangared
...and plenty of little things too long to mention here
I'm thinking of selling cause I just don't fly it enough to justify the time
and expense. My hundered dollar hamburgers are becoming thousand dollar
hamburgers.
Anyone want to chime in about approximately what it's worth?
I'm also curious about what it typically being done to deal with the
liability issue of selling an experimental aircraft. I figure, I'd include
in the sale a fresh annual by someone other than myself. Is this enough?
Andy
Winter Park, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: possible -6A for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters
Aircraft Technical Book Company wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
>
>I'm considering selling my 6A, but I'm not really sure what its worth. Its
>got:
>
>180 hours TT on the Airframe
>0-360 A4M (1150 SMOH)
>fixed prop
>VFR panel with EI engine monitor
>new Lightspeed ignition on one side, new slick mag on the other
>good condition in and out
>never damaged, always hangared
>...and plenty of little things too long to mention here
>
Compare your plane to others listed for sale in Trade-A-Plane. If
you're an AOPA member, you can pick a factory-built that closely
resembles a fast two-place airplane, add the radios and see what their
appraisal program spits out. This will give you a starting point.
The problem is, most of the appraisal sites do not track experimentals
..... and if they do, they're really way off. the other problem is
(generally) that the airplane probably is worth more to the owner than
to someone shopping for a plane, so be prepared to be disappointed.
You'll probably find that the airplane will sell close to what you have
invested ..... without all the labor etc. If you bought the airplane
already built, you might get a little more than you paid for it .....
but realistically not much more since the engine has reached 1/2 of it's
TBO.
>I'm thinking of selling cause I just don't fly it enough to justify the time
>and expense. My hundered dollar hamburgers are becoming thousand dollar
>hamburgers.
>
You shouldn't have looked at the expenses that close. Better to remain
ignorant like I do. Blissfully ignorant!
>Anyone want to chime in about approximately what it's worth?
>
No. It would be a guess and I don't want to ruin your weekend.
>I'm also curious about what it typically being done to deal with the
>liability issue of selling an experimental aircraft.
>
Leave all the stuff off that you removed to do the conditional
inspection .... cowl, tips (if they're not riveted on) seats and
anything else ..... prop and wheels too ..... and sell the airplane as
aircraft parts. You might surrender the N# if you're really paranoid,
but that's not necessary. If you go that route, you may just explain to
the buyer that he MAY be able to get the airplane inspected and get a
builder repairmans certificate. I heard that some were doing that but
be aware that the FAA frowns on inaccurate information (OK, I'm being
nice here). Anyway, you get the picture. The buyer is purchasing an
unairworthy airplane and you should take pictures with the buyer and the
airplane parts ..... and then help him put it all together.
> I figure, I'd include in the sale a fresh annual by someone other than myself.
Is this enough?
>
Well, sounds like you built it (if you can do the conditional inspection
(not an annual ..... semantics at work here) ..... but you may do the
inspection with the new buyer present so he can learn everything he can
so he can maintain it himself. That, to me, is a great selling point.
Good luck,
Linn (Valkaria Aircraft Brokers, INC)
do not archive
>
>Andy
>Winter Park, CO
>
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | possible -6A for sale |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks"
One of the very best ways to get a "market price" for your RV-6A is to
properly advertise it on eBaY. I have purchased and sold many large
items on eBay including 4 airplanes and in my opinion it is about the
best way to expose your plane to the largest number of people with an
interest in buying a plane. You can set a reserve price below which you
will not be obligated to sell your plane. I guarantee that a 6A will
generate a fair amount of interest and that you will have extended
conversations with interested parties about purchasing your plane. This
is also an excellent time to offer your 6A as we are just entering
flying season for the entire US.
When I say "properly" advertise your RV that means plenty of pictures!
Buyers want to see everything. To do this you should have proper
lighting and the right environment to take the (digital) photos. A well
shot plane can get more than it is worth while a poorly shot plane may
not get any attention. I hate to say it but people buy based on emotion
so the better the paint job the higher the price. A well written
description that blends the features of the plane along with the emotion
associated with owning the plane will both reduce the number of emails
requesting additional information but may also hook the prospective
buyer.
Good luck,
Robin
San Luis Obispo, CA
RV-4 (from eBay)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV-List: possible -6A for sale
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters
Aircraft Technical Book Company wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
>
>I'm considering selling my 6A, but I'm not really sure what its worth.
Its
>got:
>
>180 hours TT on the Airframe
>0-360 A4M (1150 SMOH)
>fixed prop
>VFR panel with EI engine monitor
>new Lightspeed ignition on one side, new slick mag on the other
>good condition in and out
>never damaged, always hangared
>...and plenty of little things too long to mention here
>
Compare your plane to others listed for sale in Trade-A-Plane. If
you're an AOPA member, you can pick a factory-built that closely
resembles a fast two-place airplane, add the radios and see what their
appraisal program spits out. This will give you a starting point.
The problem is, most of the appraisal sites do not track experimentals
..... and if they do, they're really way off. the other problem is
(generally) that the airplane probably is worth more to the owner than
to someone shopping for a plane, so be prepared to be disappointed.
You'll probably find that the airplane will sell close to what you have
invested ..... without all the labor etc. If you bought the airplane
already built, you might get a little more than you paid for it .....
but realistically not much more since the engine has reached 1/2 of it's
TBO.
>I'm thinking of selling cause I just don't fly it enough to justify the
time
>and expense. My hundered dollar hamburgers are becoming thousand
dollar
>hamburgers.
>
You shouldn't have looked at the expenses that close. Better to remain
ignorant like I do. Blissfully ignorant!
>Anyone want to chime in about approximately what it's worth?
>
No. It would be a guess and I don't want to ruin your weekend.
>I'm also curious about what it typically being done to deal with the
>liability issue of selling an experimental aircraft.
>
Leave all the stuff off that you removed to do the conditional
inspection .... cowl, tips (if they're not riveted on) seats and
anything else ..... prop and wheels too ..... and sell the airplane as
aircraft parts. You might surrender the N# if you're really paranoid,
but that's not necessary. If you go that route, you may just explain to
the buyer that he MAY be able to get the airplane inspected and get a
builder repairmans certificate. I heard that some were doing that but
be aware that the FAA frowns on inaccurate information (OK, I'm being
nice here). Anyway, you get the picture. The buyer is purchasing an
unairworthy airplane and you should take pictures with the buyer and the
airplane parts ..... and then help him put it all together.
> I figure, I'd include in the sale a fresh annual by someone other
than myself. Is this enough?
>
Well, sounds like you built it (if you can do the conditional inspection
(not an annual ..... semantics at work here) ..... but you may do the
inspection with the new buyer present so he can learn everything he can
so he can maintain it himself. That, to me, is a great selling point.
Good luck,
Linn (Valkaria Aircraft Brokers, INC)
do not archive
>
>Andy
>Winter Park, CO
>
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "oliver h washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Checkoway Weather |
--> RV-List message posted by: "oliver h washburn"
I,ll second that, a great site.
Ollie 6A Central Fl.
> [Original Message]
> From: Tony Marshall <tony(at)lambros.com>
> To:
> Date: 5/21/2005 9:23:16 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Checkoway Weather
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall"
>
> A while ago, Dan introduced a really nice, concise, place from which to
obtain weather information. I had forgotten how nice it was....and I for
one really appreciate it....and of course I acknowledge all of the normal
disclaimers. For those of you who haven't yet checked it out....
http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
>
> Thanks Dan.
>
> Tony Marshall
> RV6
> Polson, MT (yep!...in the clouds)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Gray Paint Code |
Thanks Larry! I will see if they can mix it Monday
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Gray Paint Code
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tom & Cathy Ervin
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Gray Paint Code
>
>
> I have a can of Tempo Aviation Aircraft Engine Enamel. Has the number#
> A-219 Lycoming Gray
>
> If that helps at all?
>
>
>>List, Anyone have the Lycoming Engine Gray paint code handy? PPG or Dupont
>>would be just fine.
>
> Thanks in advance, Tom in Ohio
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Internet Service! |
I have switched my Internet service to BellSouth. The following e-mail address
is effective immediately, so please change your address book and remember to
e-mail me at this address in the future: parita(at)bellsouth.net.
Thank you for taking the time to stay in contact!
***************************************************************************************
To learn about all the communications services available to you, visit http://www.bellsouth.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Checkoway Weather |
I have been using the RVPROJECT.com WIRELESS version on my web enabled cell
phone. The wireless RVPROJECT also has an N number lookup so you can find
out who owns that RV on the ramp you just parked beside.
Go try that one out when you are on a trip. Works great if you have cell
coverage when you land.
Thanks Dan.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,670 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com>
Subject: RV-List: Checkoway Weather
Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 07:23:02 -0600
A while ago, Dan introduced a really nice, concise, place from which to
obtain weather information. I had forgotten how nice it was....and I for
one really appreciate it....and of course I acknowledge all of the normal
disclaimers. For those of you who haven't yet checked it out....
http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
Thanks Dan.
Tony Marshall
RV6
Polson, MT (yep!...in the clouds)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Checkoway Weather |
I too think Dan's WX page is great!
Regards,
Bob
On 5/21/05, Tony Marshall wrote:
>
>
> A while ago, Dan introduced a really nice, concise, place from which to
> obtain weather information. I had forgotten how nice it was....and I for one
> really appreciate it....and of course I acknowledge all of the normal
> disclaimers. For those of you who haven't yet checked it out....
> http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
>
> Thanks Dan.
>
> Tony Marshall
> RV6
> Polson, MT (yep!...in the clouds)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Porter" <december29(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Slick ignition wire sets |
Hi,
Looking for a recommendation for ignition wires. Have a Lyc AEIO-360-H1B with
Slick mags. Looking at the sets at Aircraft Spruce. Thanks.
John Porter
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Checkoway Weather |
Very cool. Good WAP interface. You just need to add
the European airports! :-)
> FYI, some "high tech" web-enabled handsets try to open up the regular web
> site. If you enter the URL "rvproject.com" in your handset and it does
> this, you can try forcing it to open up the wireless version by typing in
> the URL "rvproject.com/wapindex.wml".
>
> Also note that the web version has NOTAMs now, and a link to FAA published
> TFRs. I will probably add NOTAMs to the wireless version at some point.
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ivan McLaws" <toejam(at)cybertrails.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Selector Malfunction |
Well, I finally got my wife to go for a ride in my 50 hour recent 6A. I checked
the fuel selector valve prior to take off and it was perfect. Got down to 1/4
tank on the left and tried to switch to the right.
Big surprise in that there was so much resistance I was afraid I'd break off the
handle and it would only go as far as off.
This is an old fuel selector but has worked fine until yesterday. I was a bit
concerned, nay pucker factor when on straight in final I was showing 0. I had
a field, golf course or a road made if I had to but it worked out.
Do you guys have any experience with this type of problem? Can it be fixed or
do just buy a new one. Believe me when I say I'm leaning towards getting a new
fuel selector.
Any advice appreciated. Don't want that to happen again if possible.
Ivan McLaws
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Checkoway Weather |
The non-wireless version seems to have Canadian, European and South
American airports. I haven't tried other parts of the world. The
hardest part is finding the proper ICAO code.
All we need now is an option to display temperatures in Celsius.
This is an extremely useful web page. Thanks to Dan for putting it together.
Kevin
>
>Very cool. Good WAP interface. You just need to add
>the European airports! :-)
>
>
>> FYI, some "high tech" web-enabled handsets try to open up the regular web
>> site. If you enter the URL "rvproject.com" in your handset and it does
>> this, you can try forcing it to open up the wireless version by typing in
>> the URL "rvproject.com/wapindex.wml".
>>
>> Also note that the web version has NOTAMs now, and a link to FAA published
> > TFRs. I will probably add NOTAMs to the wireless version at some point.
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Osburn" <flyby41(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Selector Malfunction |
Many airplanes are flying with this type of selector if it's a tapered
cone style. Some get good results by pulling out on the handle gently while
turning. Mine gets extremely tight after a while so about once or twice a
year I remove the moving parts of my tapered cone style fuel selector,
clean out the fuel proof grease, polish the cone , re apply a modest amount
of fuel proof grease and re assemble. (Did it yesterday) The large nut
holding the assembly on my airplane is accessible and it takes me about 15
minutes total in my RV4. 1/4 tanks are OK without draining. The selector is
high enough above the tanks that up to half full may be possible. I would
recommend the type of selector that uses the stainless ball with plastic/
nylon bushings? As you are, I am worried I may break the handle or shaft at
a really bad time. I desire to replace mine but haven't gotten around to
it. I'm looking for one that fits in the exact same space with a short
shaft but haven't found one.
> [Original Message]
> From: Ivan McLaws <toejam(at)cybertrails.com>
> To:
> Date: 5/22/2005 8:40:26 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Selector Malfunction
>
>
> Well, I finally got my wife to go for a ride in my 50 hour recent 6A. I
checked the fuel selector valve prior to take off and it was perfect. Got
down to 1/4 tank on the left and tried to switch to the right.
>
> Big surprise in that there was so much resistance I was afraid I'd break
off the handle and it would only go as far as off.
>
> This is an old fuel selector but has worked fine until yesterday. I was
a bit concerned, nay pucker factor when on straight in final I was showing
0. I had a field, golf course or a road made if I had to but it worked
out.
>
> Do you guys have any experience with this type of problem? Can it be
fixed or do just buy a new one. Believe me when I say I'm leaning towards
getting a new fuel selector.
>
> Any advice appreciated. Don't want that to happen again if possible.
>
> Ivan McLaws
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ". Scott" <av8r135(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Preview Plans for sale |
I am selling a new set of RV8 preplans for $40.00.
If interested , email to av8r135(at)yahoo.com
Regards,
Scott Baldwin
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Ameri-King defective ELT from the box |
Guys,
I dont know what your experiences are with Ameri-King
these days, but BE WARNED. The company recently lost
its incorporated status in the state of California.
Apparently its not the same company it used to be
(very poor grammar indeed!, and the customer service
reflects--I lost $200. Read below:
Dear Greg:
Thank you for your Email today, the ELT P/N AK-450 is
warranty 2 years from the date of Purchased. This
warranty can be found in the manual P/N IM450 or in
the warranty form to be completed whenever purchased
the ELT P/N AK-450.
This 2 years warranty is much more better than any
avionics instruments, equipment manufacturers
available in USA.
You can repair or replacement to an overhaul ELT for
only $129.00 ea.
If you decide to replace to the new ELT then the
special deal cost to the dealer is only $169.00 ea. we
accept credit card Master card, Visa, American Express
payment.
Please accept our sincere appreciation for your
interest in AMERI-KING'S products.
Best Regards,
VICTOR VAN
SALES MANAGER
Dear Sir,
I am following up on a conversation I had May 17 with
one of your customer service employees. I bought an
ELT for use in my experimental airplane in 2001 when
it came time to install it, the device turned out to
be defective, resulting in an uncontrollable beacon.
Your representative informed me, however, that since
the warranty had expired, I would have no recourse but
to pay $125 to repair a unit that was defective in the
box.
This is clearly a ridiculous proposition, since the
most fundamental expectation of any product purchased
under any circumstances is that it not be defective
before it has even been used!
Moreover, since you sell many products specifically
for use in home-built aircraft, you are well aware of
the normal time frame for building and testing
components- the impossibility of knowing beforehand
how long the building process will take, and when one
will be able to test any product that has to be
installed.
I am fully prepared to pursue this breach of trust
through consumer protection channels, but I would much
rather that someone in your organization with
executive foresight make reasonable amends for this
unreasonable dodging of responsibility, and act to
safeguard your reputation.
Sincerely,
Greg Grigson
Honolulu
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Malfunction |
Had the same problem with my RV4. Thought I'd either break the handle or be
unable to switch tanks and have the same problem you almost had. I changed the
whole valve and put in a two position Andair valve. Boy do I like it. No
more pucker factor and such smooth operation. Would do it all over again in a
minute. Took the old valve and showed the problem to a hangar mate I was unable
to budge it after it sat all winter with both hands. Dodged another
bullet...
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 05/22/05 |
Please remove me from list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
I have my plans on an old piece of junk that, after I cobbled it
together, looks like a small drafting table. Basically, I used an old
wheel rim, a piece of pipe and a 3' x 4' scrap of plywood to build it.
The bottom edge of the table has a lip to keep stuff from rolling off.
The plans are held to the top edge of the plywood with a few large
binder clips that you can get from Office Depot. It works very well.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/2003-09-17/rudder%20socket
%20filling.jpg
the plans table is on the left side of the photo.
(Paste the link back together if it wraps onto two lines in your email
program. It is a GOOD link.)
Vince
Oops... I forgot an important detail. You'll notice that I added a tab
to the bottom edge of each bluepint sheet. Each tab identifies what is
on that particular sheet. You'll save gobs of time if you do this
immediately after you get the plans. No hunting through the sheets to
find the one you need.
I suppose that the hanging plans that another lister showed would be OK
for a small shop. It looks like you'd be spending quite a bit of time
standing there studying the plans with a bunch of sheets either on your
head or a tired arm from holding them up. Not quite so optimal there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hanging Plans |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
Here is one way.
String a few 'closelines' of wire about 3 inches apart
Tape each of the few plans you will use at one time to thin sticks at the
top.
Run them on the wire one in front of the other.
Then just slide the one you are interested in to the part of the shop you
need it.
Cecil
writes:
>
> I seem to remember seeing (on someone's web site) a cool way to hang
> the
> plans that allowed the builder to flip pages easily, but I can't
> find it
> again. Anybody know what I am talking about, or have another good
> way to
> hang them (on wall)?
>
> Thanks,
> Brad
> RV-7 Emp Kit Arrived Today - Waiting on Tools
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Ameri-King defective ELT from the box |
I went through the same thing in 1998 (mustbe in the list archives somewhere...)
identical circumstances, but they did relent and fix it for free.
This problem can be caused from substituting a conventional phone cord for the
crossover-wired cord supplied with the unit, if I recall correctly. Be careful
to maintain polarity if you decide to cut the cord to shorten it, or to roll
your own with crimped connectors.
Meanwhile, I'm afraid to test my ELT annually, for fear it will become stuck on
again as has happened before. Victor hasn't changed a bit, apparently, and it's
catching up to him.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ameri-King defective ELT from the box
Guys,
I dont know what your experiences are with Ameri-King
these days, but BE WARNED. The company recently lost
its incorporated status in the state of California.
Apparently its not the same company it used to be
(very poor grammar indeed!, and the customer service
reflects--I lost $200. Read below:
Dear Greg:
Thank you for your Email today, the ELT P/N AK-450 is
warranty 2 years from the date of Purchased. This
warranty can be found in the manual P/N IM450 or in
the warranty form to be completed whenever purchased
the ELT P/N AK-450.
This 2 years warranty is much more better than any
avionics instruments, equipment manufacturers
available in USA.
You can repair or replacement to an overhaul ELT for
only $129.00 ea.
If you decide to replace to the new ELT then the
special deal cost to the dealer is only $169.00 ea. we
accept credit card Master card, Visa, American Express
payment.
Please accept our sincere appreciation for your
interest in AMERI-KING'S products.
Best Regards,
VICTOR VAN
SALES MANAGER
Dear Sir,
I am following up on a conversation I had May 17 with
one of your customer service employees. I bought an
ELT for use in my experimental airplane in 2001 when
it came time to install it, the device turned out to
be defective, resulting in an uncontrollable beacon.
Your representative informed me, however, that since
the warranty had expired, I would have no recourse but
to pay $125 to repair a unit that was defective in the
box.
This is clearly a ridiculous proposition, since the
most fundamental expectation of any product purchased
under any circumstances is that it not be defective
before it has even been used!
Moreover, since you sell many products specifically
for use in home-built aircraft, you are well aware of
the normal time frame for building and testing
components- the impossibility of knowing beforehand
how long the building process will take, and when one
will be able to test any product that has to be
installed.
I am fully prepared to pursue this breach of trust
through consumer protection channels, but I would much
rather that someone in your organization with
executive foresight make reasonable amends for this
unreasonable dodging of responsibility, and act to
safeguard your reputation.
Sincerely,
Greg Grigson
Honolulu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm wondering if an AOA indicator is something I'm really going to want or not.
My thoughts are that $800 is a bit of a large chunk of change for this
functionality. I have not ever felt a problem flying by ASI and feel - never
relied on a spam-can stall-horn to keep me out of trouble anyway.
Are there people that think it would be foolish to equip an aircraft with no
stall-warning system at all save my own senses?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
Hrm. Personally I would want some sort of stall warning device just for
that one time that something distracts me enough to get out of whack.
Hasn't happened to me yet, but given enough time I figure it probably
will and it doesn't hurt to have something blatt in your ear to let you
know you are getting close to the edge ;) I don't really see it as a
primary instrument, more along the lines of tying a string around your
finger to remember something....
James
Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
>I'm wondering if an AOA indicator is something I'm really going to want or not.
> My thoughts are that $800 is a bit of a large chunk of change for this
>functionality. I have not ever felt a problem flying by ASI and feel - never
>relied on a spam-can stall-horn to keep me out of trouble anyway.
>
>Are there people that think it would be foolish to equip an aircraft with no
>stall-warning system at all save my own senses?
>
>
>
>
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself
at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Porter" <december29(at)bellsouth.net> |
Hi,
Repeat question on mag ignition wires. Slick mags on a Lycoming AEIO-360H1B.
Any recommends on wire sets? I know it's not as interesting as power on vs
power off apphs or IFR vs VFR panels but still would appreciate any info. Thanks.
John Porter
80002 (worlds oldest -8 kit not yet flying..........slowly getting there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
We have AOA in HRII N561FS. We installed the indicator on the upper right of
the panel. As we found out later Gummibear looks out the left side of the
Rocket during final & in flare. The lights are bright enough to be seen in
the canopy reflection and when Tom "shifts" to the left I have a full view
of it. IF there to be a problem on final (lots of wind shear & higher
density altitude readings at APV in the summer time) I fill in for the
audio warning. If we reach full flare w/o at least all yellow & one
flickering red we have a tendency to bounce. Doesn't happen very often any
more. IF you put in an AOA make sure you put it where you can see it.
Gummi does wheel landings in a tail low "three point" attitude but not three
pointed. Tail wheel is approx 12" to 18" off the runway KABONG Do Not
Archive
Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
>
> Hrm. Personally I would want some sort of stall warning device just for
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
I think AOA gauges are great, and I'd love to see them in training airplanes.
But thinking back over the last several years I realized that it has been a
very long time since I've flown an airplane with either AOA or a stall warning,
and I can't say I've missed either.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
There is a table in Aircraft Spruce's catalog to help decide which harness
is right based on model of engine/mag. Been there, done that just recently.
If you get stuck call 'em and they will walk you through it.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Porter [mailto:december29(at)bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 5:57 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Slick mag wires
>
>
>
> Hi,
> Repeat question on mag ignition wires. Slick mags on a
> Lycoming AEIO-360H1B. Any recommends on wire sets? I know
> it's not as interesting as power on vs power off apphs or IFR
> vs VFR panels but still would appreciate any info. Thanks.
>
> John Porter
> 80002 (worlds oldest -8 kit not yet flying..........slowly
> getting there)
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
I obviously don=E2=80=99t have an unbiased opinion but here is my story anyway:
When I finished my RV-4 I did not buy an AOA for it, it was expensive and I
did not really understand it anyway as I had been taught to fly airspeed
only. After I had a friend killed in a stall spin accident in his RV, I decided
that I needed install a stall warning system in my RV as an added safety
measure. I called Jim Frantz and ordered his AOA Pro system. After installing
the system I was very pleased with how it worked as a stall warning system. I
was even more surprised as how useful it was as a reference for landing and
takeoff. The AOA will tell you your best approach angle of attack regardless
of gross weight, bank angle, and altitude. You will find that you will make
better and more consistent landings when you use the AOA.
The AOA will also give you L/D max regardless of gross weight, bank angle,
and altitude which gives you Vy and best engine out glide.
We find that pilots that have been in the Navy and have used AOA are the
easiest to sell to. I have even had Navy Pilots tell me that they will not get
into a plane without an AOA.
Here is a good article that Jerry VanGrunsven helped write:
_http://www.advanced-control-systems.com/AOAarticles/KitPlanes%20Article.pdf_
(http://www.advanced-control-systems.com/AOAarticles/KitPlanes%20Article.pdf)
Last year I got the opportunity to purchase the AOA product line from Jim
Frantz and have added it to our existing product line.
A stall warning system that does not have an audible warning is not going to
help you if you get into trouble. Also if you modify the Airfoil (put the
flaps down) you will change the AOA performance values and your AOA instrument
had better take this into account to be accurate.
Rob Hickman
www.Advanced-Flight-Systems.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bradley Kidder <sparksnmagic(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Emp Kit for Sale |
Z-USANET-MsgId: XID043JeXNN20333X36
RV-6 Empenage Kit for sale. Some riveting done, perhaps 20% complete.
$950.00
All parts, no damage.
479-474-8777
><((((=BA>`=B7.=B8=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>`=B7.=B8=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
Brad Kidder .=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
N188FW AA-1 #124 "Hawg One"
AOPA (ASN/KSLG) - EAA - Angel Flight
.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>
. , . .=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "czechsix(at)juno.com" <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Odyssey battery hold-down in an RV-8 |
Guys,
I just got my Odyssey PC680 battery and am trying to figure out how to strap it
down to the battery tray on the firewall of my -8A. Vans plans show to use a
U-shaped extrusion across the top of the battery with two long bolts that go
through each end of the extrusion and down through the sides of the battery tray.
Looks like it would work fine for a bigger Concorde battery but the tall/skinny
PC680 is a different story. I can sorta fit the extruded bar across the
aft part of the battery with enough clearance to stay away from the terminals,
but I'm wondering if I also need to secure the battery in some way to keep
it from tipping or sliding forward.
What have others done? Any pics out there?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D wiring almost done...!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Rotary engine Seminar May 27-29 |
1.30 UNDISC_RECIPS Valid-looking To "undisclosed-recipients"
For those interested in rotary engine power for aircraft, there will be
a rotary event here at Slobovia Outernational (MS71) just north of
Jackson MS beginning Friday afternoon, May 27. If you are driving to
Jackson a brochure & map of how to get here can be found on Tracy
Crook's web site at http://www.rotaryaviation.com/new_page_3.htm.
Flying info can be found at http://www.airnav.com/airport/MS71.
'Scheduled to Appear,' either with presentations or to be available for
Q&A are several folks who are already flying or manufacture & sell
accessories for rotary conversions:
Ed Anderson
Tracy Crook
Bill Eslick
Bernie Kerr
Ed Klepeis
We've got plenty of space in the house and a couple of our neighbors
have offered hangar apartments for additional lodging. Just throw a
bedroll & towel (& tent if you if you prefer) in the car/plane & we will
find a place for you to sleep.
Spouses are welcome; it's looking like they may have more fun than us
rotorheads. Possible activities include antiquing/sightseeing in a
historic town near Slobovia.
If you are thinking about coming, drop me a line at
ceengland(at)bellsouth.net or call at 601-879-9596 so we can be sure no one
goes hungry. :-)
Tupper's having the time of her life getting the house & meals prepped,
& I've got a clean hangar for the 1st time in almost a decade. Ya'll Come!
Charlie & Tupper
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jamie Painter <jdpainter(at)jpainter.org> |
| Subject: | Oil Canning On Aft Fuse |
Listers:
I got my wife out in the garage tonight and we started banging rivets
on the aft fuse. Before I drilled the fuse I checked to make sure it
was straight. I also checked again after I clecoed it back together.
It seems like everything is straight...but I have some major oil
canning going on between the 707 and 708 bulkheads, and also between
the 708 and 710. Has anyone else seen this?
I've searched the archives and it seems that other people have had oil
canning on the bottom skins, so I'm not too surprised it's happening.
It just seems that in my case the oil canning is quite severe. I've
made a video to demonstrate. You can download it here:
http://rv.jpainter.org/oil_canning.mpg
What would you all recommend? Should I just continue riveting then
deal w/ the oil canning later by possibly adding more j-channels, or
should I stop now and take corrective action?
Any thoughts appreciated.
- Jamie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Paul,
We installed Advanced Flight Systems (Formally Jim Frantz's) AOA Pro in our
RV-8A, almost 4 years ago. It is mounted in a small mounting bracket on top
of the glare shield in the pilot's left peripheral vision area and the audio
is hard wired to the pilot's headset jack.
While the AOA was a good size investment at approximately $1500, I consider
it my number one priority purchase. The priority is/was based on safety.
When one considers that stall speed is a factor of AOA, gross weight, angle
of bank and the fact that airspeed indicators lag actual airspeed it was an
easy decision. The fact that the Navy cut fleet fatalities approximately in
half, following their transition to AOA gave added credence to the decision.
While some will disagree, I doubt few have the instrumentation, to determine
what their aircraft's exact stall speed is at any point in time and have to
rely on an approximation. Which to many of us means faster approaches, etc.
The other factor is emergencies. I have had one and it sure was reassuring
to have the AOA. It alerted me in plenty of time, that I was getting close
to stalling. I know you are always suppose to fly the airplane but until you
have been there it's hard to imagine how easy it is to get distracted with
finding the nearest airport/landing site, troubleshooting your problem,
setting for and making your landing.
IMHO the AOA system is a very wise purchase and significantly improves your
safety.
Good building and safe flying,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (300+ hours)
>From: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: AOA indicator?
>Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 11:26:37 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>I'm wondering if an AOA indicator is something I'm really going to want or
>not.
> My thoughts are that $800 is a bit of a large chunk of change for this
>functionality. I have not ever felt a problem flying by ASI and feel -
>never
>relied on a spam-can stall-horn to keep me out of trouble anyway.
>
>Are there people that think it would be foolish to equip an aircraft with
>no
>stall-warning system at all save my own senses?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas P. Gardner" <seabearfl(at)netzero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey battery hold-down in an RV-8 |
Mark,
I used a 1/4 X 8 X 1.5 bar stock w/ .063 angles (Qty 2) about 1" long that sits
on top of the battery. The angles keep the battery secure from sliding, and then
I used Van's long bolts drilled thru the bar stock down to the battery tray.
Cheap and easy to do.
Douglas P. Gardner
-8A In Painting
Palm Harbor, Florida 34683
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
If you have got to spend $800, I would highly recommend the RMI uEncoder kit.
It has a stall horn included - along with:
Altimeter
Airspeed (IAS & TAS)
Vertical Speed
Density Altitude
Encoder output for your Transponder
Outside Air Temp
RS-232 output for data recording the above.
And what I have found VERY useful for cross country trips is an Altitude Alerter.
And for instrument approaches it also does Decision Height Alarming.
http://www.rkymtn.com/EncFeatures.htm
(Whoops, the kit is up to $879 and Assembled is $1179, but still an outstanding
investment!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
> ...
> I've looked critically at your AOA, and I'm impressed with it's
> abilities. I'm just not sure that it's a necessary item for me.
> ...
I've got one, not flying yet. I've flown with them, and I think
they are pretty cool. What impresses me the most is that of all
the pilots that I know that fly with one, they are happy they
have it, and would recommend one. I'm sure there are some out
there, but I've never met anyone that has flown with an AOA and
then said it was not worth the money or time to install.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Glare shield covering |
List,
I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield. It
must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
Thanks in advance.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV-8, Finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
Barry Chapman wrote:
>
> Linn,
>
> Why not have one? I am new to this sort of thing and would like to hear
> what rationale you may have for this decision. TIA
I have no interest in resurrecting the old debate about which AOA system
is "best", but for new listers who may be researching angle of attack
systems, here is an article about my installation of the Lift Reserve
Indicator:
http://thervjournal.com/liftreserve.htm
After flying the LRI for several years, I consider it a valuable part of
the panel. Some pilots might mark it down because of the lack of aural
warning, but I have found it to be very adequate since it is now the
primary part of my instrument scan during take-off and landing.
Hundreds of RVs are flown safely without AOA indicators, but I think
once a pilot is accustomed to one, they will find it to be a valuable
confidence booster, especially when wringing out maximum take-off and
landing performance.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
IApTZWVtcyB0byAgbWUgdGhhdCBwcGwgdGhhdCBkaWUKaW4gYSBzdGFsbC9zcGluIHN0YWxs
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aXRpY2FsIEFPQSBpcyBub3QgIGFmZmVjdGVkLiAKUm9iIEhpY2ttYW4gCnd3dy5BZHZhbmNl
ZC1GbGlnaHQtU3lzdGVtcy5jb20gCgogCiAK4oCiCgoK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "eBay Member: jakent(at)unison.ie" <member(at)ebay.com> |
| Subject: | John Kent sent you this eBay item: Ferranti Mk14 Gyro Horizon |
and Inverter Kit (#4551535658)
piratekent1 sent you this eBay item.
Personal message:
O.K. for starters this guy is NOT a relative!
However, I did buy one of these units and it is really good and pretty much set
up for RVs.
The reserve as I recall is fairly high, reflecting the quality of the goods, but
it still beats the hell out of any other electric steam gauge on the market,
with good credentials to boot - read the description for details.
Just thought some of the listers might want to check it out.
John Kent RV-4 EI-DIY.
=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09
View this Item on eBay at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item4551535658&ssPageNameADME:B:EF:US:1
Ferranti Mk14 Gyro Horizon and Inverter Kit
Item number: 4551535658
Seller: adtempus(550)
Positive Feedback: 99.5%
Member since Nov-10-00 in United Kingdom
Starting bid: US $10.00
(Reserve not met)
Time left: 6 days 0 hours
10-day listing
Item location: Oxford, Oxfordshire
United Kingdom
Ships to: Worldwide
Summary
Ferranti Attitude Indicator / Gyro Horizon. Model: FH14F/1, RAF Stores Ref: 6A/14030,
Ferranti Part No: 64/51030, cable and a 115volt 400Hz inverter to drive
it, making up a complete kit, ready to use. Gyro fits standard 3.25" sq panel
hole and has electric levelling / fast erect via push button switch on face.
The inverter is a professionally built pwm design, with glass epoxy pcb's in a
small diecast box. It uses digital logic and power mosfets to generate a sine
wave 115v 400Hz regulated output via custom wound transformers. It also provides
a 24 volt dc ouput to drive low power 24 volt dc instruments and incorporates
timing logic to auto level the gyro while spinning up, soft start, low
voltage and reverse polarity protection and rfi suppression. It draws approx
1.8 amps at a nominal 12-14 volt input, once the gyro is fully spun up. A
different build of the inverter will power Ferranti Mk 6 series horizons, other
horizons and instruments that require a 115 volt 400Hz single or three phase
supply. The inverter has a true 3 phase output, so will drive gyros such as
the Sfena series and other gyros that are fussy about input power. Please enquire
if you need an inverter only for other applications.
The horizon is ex uk mod, hermetically sealed and is mil quality. It is checked
out in the lab here and run for a couple of days before shipment. As received,
it is set up for an approx 8 degree slope instrument panel angle, but can be
reworked here for other panel angles, resealed and inert gas filled before shipment
on request. The inverter and cable assembly is made to order and delivery
for the complete horizon / inverter kit is 3-4 weeks. As this is an ex mod
surplus instrument, there is no paperwork, so should only be used in homebuilt,
experimental or permit aircraft. Warranty is 12 months for the horizon and
lifetime for the inverter. These gyros originally cost the uk government ~12k
each, so now quite good value when compared against the cost of other electric
horizons.
Notes:
Unless otherwise stated, this item is in good working order and has been examined
to the best of my ability, with known faults described . Spares, repair or
parts item sales are as is, final and may have faults not known to myself, though
every effort is made to describe accurately.
Thanks for looking and good luck with the bidding...
Finally:
As part of a long term interest in the restoration, servicing and enjoyment of
old mechanical cameras, am now offering a cla / repair service for such cameras,
lenses, obscure stuff like Nikon F and F2 Photomic heads, motor drives and
other electric and electronic photo related items. The main business here is
electronic design and embedded systems engineering, but have restored old photo
equipment as a part time business for many years. Nikon and rangefinders
are the main interest, but may be able to help with others as well, though to
do the job properly on any 30 or 40 year old camera usually means a stripdown
and can take several hours. I can also modify the older cameras to use alkaline
cells, as a replacement for the mercury types. If you have any questions with
regard to this, please get in touch.
=09=09=09
=09=09=09
=09=09=09
=09=09=09
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eBay and the eBay logo are trademarks of eBay Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey battery hold-down in an RV-8 |
I bought the PC680 battery box kit from Vans. Works like a charm on my RV7.
I don't see any reason that an RV7 should have an exclusive on this and why
it wouldn't work on an 8. If you got space for the battery, the box is just
a bit bigger and it includes the hold down bar across the top.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
>
>
> Guys,
>
> I just got my Odyssey PC680 battery and am trying to figure out how to
> strap it down to the battery tray on the firewall of my -8A. Vans plans
> show to use a U-shaped extrusion across the top of the battery with two
> long bolts that go through each end of the extrusion and down through the
> sides of the battery tray. Looks like it would work fine for a bigger
> Concorde battery but the tall/skinny PC680 is a different story. I can
> sorta fit the extruded bar across the aft part of the battery with enough
> clearance to stay away from the terminals, but I'm wondering if I also
> need to secure the battery in some way to keep it from tipping or sliding
> forward.
>
> What have others done? Any pics out there?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
I'm considering using camlocs on upper cowl half where it meets the
firewall. That way I won't have to fight trying to get hinges and pins to
go around the corners up there. For those of you that used camlocs on your
cowls, what spacing did you use between the camlocs? Also how much edge
distance did you leave between the back edge of the cowl and the camlock?
I assume insufficient distance will result in the fiberglass cracking and
too much distance will result in a not-so-tight fit with respect to the
fuselage skin. Any preferences or recommendations on type of camloc or
specific brand or size? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Wiring and plumbing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim McNulty <jfmcnulty2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Emp Kit for Sale |
where is it?
RV-6 Empenage Kit for sale. Some riveting done, perhaps 20% complete.
$950.00
All parts, no damage.
479-474-8777
><((((=BA>`=B7.=B8=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>`=B7.=B8=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
Brad Kidder .=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
N188FW AA-1 #124 "Hawg One"
AOPA (ASN/KSLG) - EAA - Angel Flight
.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>
. , . .=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>
---------------------------------
Get on-the-go sports scores, stock quotes, news & more. Check it out!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Any RV'rs or EAA in Churchville MD??? |
Hello David McManmon here
Flapjack2
RV6 Builder and Pilot, Syracuse NY.
Past President and Board Member EAA 486
Flying my RV6 into Churchville, 0W3 Harford Co. this Thursday dinner time.
Departing most likely Memorial Day or Tuesday.
Spending the weekend with my brother, lives about 7 miles from the Airport.
Wish me good weather window=E2=80=A6Thursday the only hope departing here=E2=80=A6..(VFR)
I was wondering if:
Any EAA activity there over the weekend?
Any one with hanger space to put me in?
I would trade a hour or so stick time in my RV=E2=80=A6..
Any near by RV wanna be=E2=80=99s, projects and so on that should perhaps we should
meet?
Might have windows of time to play while down there
After today
EMAIL
_MCMAND(at)AOL.COM_ (mailto:MCMAND(at)AOL.COM)
Respectfully
David McManmon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
Steve Struyk wrote:
>
>List,
>
>I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield. It
must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
>
Yup. Get some speaker grille cloth. You'll be able to stretch it
around the edges to get it tight. Use clothes pins to hold the cloth
and contact cement on the backside only to hold the cloth down.
Linn
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Steve Struyk
>St. Charles, MO
>RV-8, Finish
>
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I had some oil canning on the aft fuse belly too. Fixed it by prosealing
a piece of .025 anlge across it.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Jamie Painter said:
>
> Listers:
>
> I got my wife out in the garage tonight and we started banging rivets
> on the aft fuse. Before I drilled the fuse I checked to make sure it
> was straight. I also checked again after I clecoed it back together.
> It seems like everything is straight...but I have some major oil
> canning going on between the 707 and 708 bulkheads, and also between
> the 708 and 710. Has anyone else seen this?
>
> I've searched the archives and it seems that other people have had oil
> canning on the bottom skins, so I'm not too surprised it's happening.
> It just seems that in my case the oil canning is quite severe. I've
> made a video to demonstrate. You can download it here:
>
> http://rv.jpainter.org/oil_canning.mpg
>
> What would you all recommend? Should I just continue riveting then
> deal w/ the oil canning later by possibly adding more j-channels, or
> should I stop now and take corrective action?
>
> Any thoughts appreciated.
>
> - Jamie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I'm real happy with the black suade on my glare shield. Attached with
spray adhesive.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Steve Struyk said:
>
> List,
>
> I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare
> shield. It must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too
> shiny and I'd rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles, MO
> RV-8, Finish
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs on cowl |
I used about 4 inch spacing, adjusted for looks. They recommend using 5/8
in. edge distance (I think) and thats what I used. I believe I used the
2600 series with floating receptacles. They are expensive but very well
made and easy to install. They have packages set up for RV's already. Give
camloc a call.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Camlocs on cowl
>
>
> I'm considering using camlocs on upper cowl half where it meets the
> firewall. That way I won't have to fight trying to get hinges and pins to
> go around the corners up there. For those of you that used camlocs on
> your
> cowls, what spacing did you use between the camlocs? Also how much edge
> distance did you leave between the back edge of the cowl and the camlock?
> I assume insufficient distance will result in the fiberglass cracking and
> too much distance will result in a not-so-tight fit with respect to the
> fuselage skin. Any preferences or recommendations on type of camloc or
> specific brand or size? Thanks.
>
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Wiring and plumbing.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse |
You need to add shims under the rivets. You could possibly also bend the
tabs on the ribs to get them to fit more tightly against the skin, but you
may already be too far along to do that without severely enlarging the holes
in the ribs. So, if you do not add something under the riveting area, you
will have a real bad case of rivet puckering. Cut some small pieces of
scrap sheet into squares the size of the rib tabs. Make the thickness just
thick enough you can barely slip it between the rib and skin. Be sure it is
dimpled before slipping it in. Then you rivet. You can also use a liquid
shim. It is made with epoxy and flox. You push the epoxy between the skin
and rib, let it set up overnight and then redrill to open a hole through the
epoxy and then rivet. You will have to use longer rivets than the plans
call for. I would try to measure how much slack you have between the ribs
and skin by seeing how big a shim you can slip in there and call Vans. See
what they think. I would not rivet the skin until you do something to take
up the slack.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers
that it can bribe the public with the public's own money."
Alexis de Toqueville
----- Original Message ----- > Listers:
>
> I got my wife out in the garage tonight and we started banging rivets
> on the aft fuse. Before I drilled the fuse I checked to make sure it
> was straight. I also checked again after I clecoed it back together.
> It seems like everything is straight...but I have some major oil
> canning going on between the 707 and 708 bulkheads, and also between
> the 708 and 710. Has anyone else seen this?
>
>
> What would you all recommend? Should I just continue riveting then
> deal w/ the oil canning later by possibly adding more j-channels, or
> should I stop now and take corrective action?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
FWIW,
I asked a friend of mine who flew in the military, now an airline captain
and has test flown many RV's which he would prefer in the back seat of my -4 if
I were to put one instrument there. An airspeed or and AOA. He said hands
down, an AOA.
Happy Flying Safely,
Wally Hunt
RV-4 Finishing Kit, AFS-AOA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mauri Morin" <maurv8(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs on cowl |
Check Randy Lervold's web site
http://www.rv-8.com/Cowl.htm#Cowl%20fasteners
Mauri Morin
RV-8
Polson, Mt.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Camlocs on cowl
>
>
> I'm considering using camlocs on upper cowl half where it meets the
> firewall. That way I won't have to fight trying to get hinges and pins to
> go around the corners up there. For those of you that used camlocs on
> your
> cowls, what spacing did you use between the camlocs? Also how much edge
> distance did you leave between the back edge of the cowl and the camlock?
> I assume insufficient distance will result in the fiberglass cracking and
> too much distance will result in a not-so-tight fit with respect to the
> fuselage skin. Any preferences or recommendations on type of camloc or
> specific brand or size? Thanks.
>
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Wiring and plumbing.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse |
Jamie
If you decide to add stiffeners to your floor skins, please tie them into
the related bulkheads. If you simply rivet or ProSeal them to the floor,
the oil canning energy will be focused at the end points of the stiffeners.
This will accellerate cracking at these points. I can email you photos of
how I did this on my RV-8A off list if you like.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Listers:
>
>I got my wife out in the garage tonight and we started banging rivets
>on the aft fuse. Before I drilled the fuse I checked to make sure it
>was straight. I also checked again after I clecoed it back together.
>It seems like everything is straight...but I have some major oil
>canning going on between the 707 and 708 bulkheads, and also between
>the 708 and 710. Has anyone else seen this?
>
>I've searched the archives and it seems that other people have had oil
>canning on the bottom skins, so I'm not too surprised it's happening.
>It just seems that in my case the oil canning is quite severe. I've
>made a video to demonstrate. You can download it here:
>
>http://rv.jpainter.org/oil_canning.mpg
>
>What would you all recommend? Should I just continue riveting then
>deal w/ the oil canning later by possibly adding more j-channels, or
>should I stop now and take corrective action?
>
>Any thoughts appreciated.
>
> - Jamie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
Consider that Cee Bailey Plastics, makers of high quality transparencies, says
that vinyl is the enemy of acrylic. A vinyl glareshield can cause an acrylic
windsheild to crack in less than a year it is said.
I cut the sheet metal back to within half an inch of the panel. I don't know quite
why I didn't go a little further. In an accident, that sheet metal could
act like a cleaver. I returned the overhang with very thin aluminum painted
prop flat black. It is still not done but I'm getting there. My next panel will
have a crash strip of some sort.
hal
RV6a Oshkosh 4th time this year??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier(at)lamar.colostate.edu> |
| Subject: | glareshield fabric |
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Glare shield covering
List,
I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield.
It
must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
--- Contact DJ Lauritsen at Cleaveland tools. She has some very good fabric
and a color selection. I got dark green and am very happy with it.
Don Piermattei
RV-9A 192DP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
oil canning is usually easy to remedy. You can either add a stiffener
now or later, ignore it, or sell the project... ok, don't sell the
project.
You can either rivet or proseal the stiffener in place.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Canning On Aft Fuse |
Jamie,
This doesn't appear too abnormal...I just added a stiffener made of 3/4 X
3/4 X .063 angle between the bulkheads. Used #3 rivets about 1" spacing.
Works great.
Pat Hatch
Listers:
I got my wife out in the garage tonight and we started banging rivets
on the aft fuse. Before I drilled the fuse I checked to make sure it
was straight. I also checked again after I clecoed it back together.
It seems like everything is straight...but I have some major oil
canning going on between the 707 and 708 bulkheads, and also between
the 708 and 710. Has anyone else seen this?
- Jamie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Wiring/routing in a complex IFR QB kit |
Perusing a few nice 7/9 sites over the last couple days, I've read a few
different comments re: running wire with some people saying that the
standard holes are not enough. This has got me thinking about all the
wiring I'm going to need to run through my IFR QB bird and wondering
about issues. I know Van's thinks "VFR" when it comes to the QB kits.
I know you can run stuff easily enough through the wings but the fuse is
maybe another situation.
If you've built a full-QB kit and wired it for full lights, AP (I'm now
planning just a 1-axis DigiTrak), remote AHRS/magnetometer, along with
6+ antennas (2 com, nav, GPS, ELT, transponder), please mail me off the
list. I'm really curious as to what issues you ran into with the QB kit
and how you handled them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Canning On Aft Fuse |
Charlie, you're correct. I have stiffeners I added in the belly on my
-6, the skin quickly cracked at the first and last rivets. If I had
to do it over again I'd get some closed cell foam 3/8" thick and hysol
that to the belly. I've seen that trick done and it takes all of five
minutes to do, and eliminates the possibility of the skin cracking.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying 600+ hours F1 under const.
On 5/25/05, Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> Jamie
> If you decide to add stiffeners to your floor skins, please tie them into
> the related bulkheads. If you simply rivet or ProSeal them to the floor,
> the oil canning energy will be focused at the end points of the stiffeners.
> This will accellerate cracking at these points. I can email you photos of
> how I did this on my RV-8A off list if you like.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >
> >Listers:
> >
> >I got my wife out in the garage tonight and we started banging rivets
> >on the aft fuse. Before I drilled the fuse I checked to make sure it
> >was straight. I also checked again after I clecoed it back together.
> >It seems like everything is straight...but I have some major oil
> >canning going on between the 707 and 708 bulkheads, and also between
> >the 708 and 710. Has anyone else seen this?
> >
> >I've searched the archives and it seems that other people have had oil
> >canning on the bottom skins, so I'm not too surprised it's happening.
> >It just seems that in my case the oil canning is quite severe. I've
> >made a video to demonstrate. You can download it here:
> >
> >http://rv.jpainter.org/oil_canning.mpg
> >
> >What would you all recommend? Should I just continue riveting then
> >deal w/ the oil canning later by possibly adding more j-channels, or
> >should I stop now and take corrective action?
> >
> >Any thoughts appreciated.
> >
> > - Jamie
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Glare shield covering |
Try black velvet.
I used non-glare black paint, dull vynel and even a black towel, but all had some
reflection. The black velvet works best and after 450 hrs (3 1/5 yrs) there
has been no need to clean.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: glareshield fabric |
On 05/25 7:49, Don/Marcia Piermattei wrote:
> I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield.
> It
> must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
> rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
Go to a store like JoAnn Fabrics. Ask where the faux (fake) leather
is. The stuff is very durable and has no gloss/glare to it. It has
a cloth backing. Glue it on with rubber cement. Get the good stuff
though otherwise it may unstick in the heat. If you want you can
place some foam between the faux leather and aluminum for a cushy
feel, about 1/8" works well.
Try to ignore all the women there snikering at you...
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey battery hold-down in an RV-8 |
On 05/24 6:46, LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
> I bought the PC680 battery box kit from Vans. Works like a charm on my RV7.
> I don't see any reason that an RV7 should have an exclusive on this and why
> it wouldn't work on an 8. If you got space for the battery, the box is just
> a bit bigger and it includes the hold down bar across the top.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
I agree with Larry, buy the PC680 battery box kit from Vans.
Then when you get it, make this modification so you can get the
battery out easily without having to lift it straight up, allowing
you to place items on the firewall above the battery, in close
proximity.
http://rv7-a.com/firewall_finish.htm#battery%20box%20mods
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
vinyl is going to cause acrylic to break? I've never heard that one before. Where
can one read up on a test that proves that?
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Consider that Cee Bailey Plastics, makers of high quality transparencies, says
> that vinyl is the enemy of acrylic. A vinyl glareshield can cause an acrylic
> windsheild to crack in less than a year it is said.
>
> I cut the sheet metal back to within half an inch of the panel. I don't know
> quite why I didn't go a little further. In an accident, that sheet metal could
> act like a cleaver. I returned the overhang with very thin aluminum painted
> prop flat black. It is still not done but I'm getting there. My next panel
> will have a crash strip of some sort.
>
> hal
>
> RV6a Oshkosh 4th time this year??
>
>
>
>
>
>
vinyl is going to cause acrylic to break? I've never heard that one before. Where
can one read up on a test that proves that?
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne
Consider that Cee Bailey Plastics, makers of high quality transparencies, says
that vinyl is the enemy of acrylic. A vinyl glareshield can cause an acrylic
windsheild to crack in less than a year it is said.
I cut the sheet metal back to within half an inch of the panel. I don't know
quite why I didn't go a little further. In an accident, that sheet metal could
act like a cleaver. I returned the overhang with very thin aluminum painted
prop flat black. It is still not done but I'm getting there. My next panel
will have a crash strip of some sort.
hal
RV6a Oshkosh 4th time this year??
====================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs on cowl |
I'll second what Jeff Dowling said, 4 inch spacing, 5/8 edge distance.
However I think the 4002 is what I used, not the 2600. Specifically the
SK245-4 floating receptacles.
I've got a few pics on my website:
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/camlocks.htm
http://www.skybolt.com/ is the website for Skybolt.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
I just called Todd at Todd's Canopies and he's never heard of vinyl being bad for
acrylic. What he did say was heat is the enemy for any canopy and not because
it would break but just the opposite. It becomes too soft and messes up the
optics.
At 170 degrees they get soooo soft they can leave permanent distortions which will
screw up the optics. So his concern is a glareshield that abosrbs and radiates
so much heat that this scenario could play out. But when I described to
him what I was using (some fake leather like material with a white colored backing)
he said no problem. He also said if you leave it out like at sun and fun
or out west in the desert put one of those cotton type coverings over your
canopy and forget about it. Seems to be one case for the skirts NOT to fit so
well :-)
The other item he mentioned is that if the canopy is touching some other plastic
(like the plastic the ships with) it can fuse together it left on too long in
super hot conditions.
And just to throw this in, he says don't use masking tape or duct tape or anything
else other than 3M vinyl electrical tape on the canopy. He recommends Novus
plastic cleaning products as well found usually at boat supply places like
West Marine.
Lucky
I just called Todd at Todd's Canopies and he's never heard of vinyl being bad for
acrylic. What he did say was heat is the enemy for any canopy and not because
it would break but just the opposite. It becomes too soft and messes up the
optics.
At 170 degrees they get soooo soft they can leave permanent distortions which will
screw up the optics. So his concern is a glareshield that abosrbs and radiates
so much heat that this scenario could play out. But when I described to him
what I was using (some fake leather like material with a white colored backing)
he said no problem. He also said if you leave it out like at sun and fun
or out west in the desert put one of those cotton type coverings over your canopy
and forget about it. Seems to be one case for the skirts NOT to fit so well
:-)
The other item he mentioned is that if the canopy is touching some other plastic
(like the plastic the ships with) it can fuse together it left on too long in
super hot conditions.
And just to throw this in, he says don't use masking tape or duct tape or anything
else other than 3M vinyl electrical tape on the canopy. He recommends Novus
plastic cleaning products as well found usually at boat supply places like West
Marine.
Lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | AOA indicator for $60 |
Here are some ideas for a homemade AOA, airspeed warning or stall warning, you
can make or by for less than $90:
You can make an AOA for $60 and it will work just like the LRI (Lift reserve indicator) Sam Buchanan mentions below. The instructions to make it are here and look very easy to duplicate: http://www.snyder.on.ca/pages/lri.htm
It shows a nice drawing for making a probe out of a piece of aluminum bar. The
gage is made from an off-the-shelf industrial differential pressure gage. The
2-1/6 dia. gage is mechanical and very sensitive. Specs for the gage:
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pr...2-5000Intro.CFM
This was off a Sonex Builders Web Site, and yes there are other home built kits
out there. I would imagine the probe could be made from other materials and the
face of the gage can be modified with color-coded lift scale (provided in instructions).
Also there is a version of the LRI, Aircraft Angle of Attack 2.25"
Instrument Kit, on eBay for $325.
Indicated airspeed warning is not AOA. There is a big difference and the uEncoder
does not have AOA info, but does have a low speed airspeed warning. Which certainly
could be of some use at least in wings level 1G flight. You could install
a pressure switch and relay to make a visual and/or aural alarm for low
speed. The aural alarm could be a simple sound effect circuit from and electronic
kit that is connected to the aircrafts radios or intercoms aux input. Cost
could be done for $50 or less. You would have to figure out how to keep it from
going off on the ground. (ideas).
You can buy or make stall tab with a micro switch like factory planes have (less
than $90). These are true AOA sensors but with only one indication, (near) critical
angle of attack.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/redstallwarner.php. You can check out a RV-6a builders site that shows this set up, LOOK left side bottom and click -Stall warning
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/
I think AOA, airspeed and stall warning are all good, but I don't think you need
to spend thousands of dollars. In fact there is another unit called Riteangle,
off the shelf stall warning. Worth a look and lots of installed pictures on
RVs and other experimental aircraft. My RV does not have any of the above and
have flown for over 800 hours without un-intentionally stalling. I have stalled
my RV in all attitudes intentionally up to 3-G loading. That helps develop
a feel for what it does near critical angle of attack. The FAA calls this stall
avoidance or awareness. Of course if you plan on being inattentive to airspeed
control than you need one of the above, but guess no one plans on loosing airspeed
control. RVs fly very slow and have a small range of angle of attack.
Jets have very large range of operational angle of attack and don't have sufficent
natural feel, thus they need artificial stick shakers and AOA indicators.
AOA indicator for a RV is an option, a good one opti
on, but
it is not necsessary to fly safely. Fly airspeed with normal margins (Vso x 1.3)
and you will be OK. In RV aerobatics under load, the buffet is obvious before
stall.
Cheers George
============================================
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
> posted by: "Ron Brown"
>
> If you have got to spend $800, I would highly recommend the RMI uEncoder kit.
It has a > stall horn included - along with:
> http://www.rkymtn.com/EncFeatures.htm
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
>> posted by: Sam Buchanan
>>
>> I have no interest in resurrecting the old debate about which AOA system is
"best", but >> for new listers who may be researching angle of attack systems,
here is an article about >> my installation of the Lift Reserve
>>
>> Indicator:http://thervjournal.com/liftreserve.htm
>>
>> After flying the LRI for several years, I consider it a valuable part of the
panel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator for $60 |
Hi George,
In trying to access the second link in your email, it responded with an
error and not the specs for the gauge.
RHDudley
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
>
>Here are some ideas for a homemade AOA, airspeed warning or stall warning, you
can make or by for less than $90:
>
>
>You can make an AOA for $60 and it will work just like the LRI (Lift reserve indicator) Sam Buchanan mentions below. The instructions to make it are here and look very easy to duplicate: http://www.snyder.on.ca/pages/lri.htm
>It shows a nice drawing for making a probe out of a piece of aluminum bar. The
gage is made from an off-the-shelf industrial differential pressure gage. The
2-1/6 dia. gage is mechanical and very sensitive. Specs for the gage:
>http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pr...2-5000Intro.CFM
>This was off a Sonex Builders Web Site, and yes there are other home built kits
out there. I would imagine the probe could be made from other materials and
the face of the gage can be modified with color-coded lift scale (provided in
instructions). Also there is a version of the LRI, Aircraft Angle of Attack 2.25"
Instrument Kit, on eBay for $325.
>
>
>Indicated airspeed warning is not AOA. There is a big difference and the uEncoder
does not have AOA info, but does have a low speed airspeed warning. Which
certainly could be of some use at least in wings level 1G flight. You could install
a pressure switch and relay to make a visual and/or aural alarm for low
speed. The aural alarm could be a simple sound effect circuit from and electronic
kit that is connected to the aircrafts radios or intercoms aux input. Cost
could be done for $50 or less. You would have to figure out how to keep it
from going off on the ground. (ideas)
>
>
>You can buy or make stall tab with a micro switch like factory planes have (less
than $90). These are true AOA sensors but with only one indication, (near)
critical angle of attack.
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/redstallwarner.php. You can check out a RV-6a builders site that shows this set up, LOOK left side bottom and click -Stall warning
>
>http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/
>
>
>I think AOA, airspeed and stall warning are all good, but I don't think you need
to spend thousands of dollars. In fact there is another unit called Riteangle,
off the shelf stall warning. Worth a look and lots of installed pictures on
RVs and other experimental aircraft. My RV does not have any of the above and
have flown for over 800 hours without un-intentionally stalling. I have stalled
my RV in all attitudes intentionally up to 3-G loading. That helps develop
a feel for what it does near critical angle of attack. The FAA calls this stall
avoidance or awareness. Of course if you plan on being inattentive to airspeed
control than you need one of the above, but guess no one plans on loosing
airspeed control. RVs fly very slow and have a small range of angle of attack.
Jets have very large range of operational angle of attack and don't have sufficent
natural feel, thus they need artificial stick shakers and AOA indicators.
AOA indicator for a RV is an option, a good one opti
> on, but
> it is not necsessary to fly safely. Fly airspeed with normal margins (Vso x 1.3)
and you will be OK. In RV aerobatics under load, the buffet is obvious before
stall.
>
>
>Cheers George
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>posted by: "Ron Brown"
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>If you have got to spend $800, I would highly recommend the RMI uEncoder kit.
It has a > stall horn included - along with:
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>http://www.rkymtn.com/EncFeatures.htm
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>>>posted by: Sam Buchanan
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>>I have no interest in resurrecting the old debate about which AOA system is
"best", but >> for new listers who may be researching angle of attack systems,
here is an article about >> my installation of the Lift Reserve
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>>Indicator:http://thervjournal.com/liftreserve.htm
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>>>After flying the LRI for several years, I consider it a valuable part of the
panel.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CW Crane <cwcrane(at)gbronline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
>
>List,
>
>I'm looking for a good fabric/material to cover the top of the glare shield. It
must be non-glare, easy to clean, and durable. Vinyl is way too shiny and I'd
rather not use paint. Any ideas out there?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Steve Struyk
>St. Charles, MO
>RV-8, Finish
>
I used convertible top fabric/material that I got at an auto trim shop on a 6A.
They also had some edging I used to hold it in place. IIRC it was such a small
quantity there was no charge.
CW Crane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator |
I am not big on gadgets and such and I know my airplane well, so an AOA is
not a big deal upright. But, then again, I fly mostly aerobatics and I
have had some inadvertent inverted stalls. No big deal, just pull back on
the stick and you are flying again.
So I was thinking, do these AOA indicators work when the aircraft is upside
down developing negative lift. I really would like to know during
aerobatics how close to a stall I really am during the maneuver.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brucebell74" <brucebell74(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Hi All,
Last week I started my RV4 for the first time and found a brake problem. The
brakes are applied when the rudder petals are moved left or right. I first
thought it was my big feet but today while pulling it back in the hangar
with my new Bogart Aviation towbar I found the brakes are applied with a
small movement of the rudder. Anyone had this problem? Anyone with a
suggestion?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Odyssey battery hold-down in an RV-8 |
Mark,
I used the stock tray, attached an angle piece to the tray to hold the base of
the battery forward against the front of the tray. I used the stock "U" shaped
piece across the top with a couple vertical tabs riveted on the front and back
of the "U" piece to catch the raised portion
on the top of the battery. Works great and if I need to I can revert to a larger
battery easy.
Rich Crosley
N948RC, RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camlocs on cowl |
Mauri, Checkout Skybolt!! I installed a set in a
Lancair IVP turbine cowling. The adjustable
receptacles save tons of work and time.
http://www.skybolt.com/
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon D-10A Ticking |
Tonite I had a visitor looking at my RV-4 when he asked if he could turn
on the master switch. I said "Sure, go ahead" because I always like to see
the little lights come on and and then hear "ANGLE, ANGLE, PUSH" (Yeah
that's right, I spent the money for an AOA). Well nothing happened! No
master relay picking up, no lights, no nothing. I then tried to turn on the
Dynon thinking it would come up on battery back up. Again nothing. The
entire electrical system was dead. I immediately hooked a battery charger to
my Oddessy PC-680 and started a charge. I tried the master switch again and
everything powered up as expected so obviously the battery was completely
dead. The problem is I don't know why. I checked all of the switches and
everything was turned off so I do not think anything was left on.
So now for the real question. I have noticed lately that the Dyon D-10A
was making a ticking noise when everything on the plane was turned off. The
tick is about every second. I have the keep alive circuit wired up to an
always hot bus so that the internal battery in the Dynon will stay charged
up. I think the noise is from this circuit because I disconnected the
connector from the back of the Dynon and the noise stopped and resumed when
it was reconnected. Is this ticking noise normal? Could this be the cause of
my dead battery? Will a dead battery on the plane drain the internal battery
on the Dynon? Will a PC-680 go completely dead if you let the voltage get
down to about 10.5 volts (I have not charged the battery in a while)?
Thanks,
Jerry Isler
RV-4 N455J
Donalsonville, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
I'm considering using camlocs on upper cowl half where it meets the
firewall. That way I won't have to fight trying to get hinges and pins to
go around the corners up there. For those of you that used camlocs on your
cowls, what spacing did you use between the camlocs? Also how much edge
distance did you leave between the back edge of the cowl and the camlock?
I assume insufficient distance will result in the fiberglass cracking and
too much distance will result in a not-so-tight fit with respect to the
fuselage skin. Any preferences or recommendations on type of camloc or
specific brand or size? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Wiring and plumbing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EMAproducts(at)aol.com |
Gentlemen,
Do you know of ANYBODY that planned on having an accident?
I know many of you have stated you wouldn't install an AOA. I can give you
many satisfied customers that prefer to fly with one. My firm has been
producing AOA's 10 years for the homebuilt industry. We have full voice audio,
LED
indicator, automatically correct for up to 6 flap positions for $599.50. Just
because it costs more doesn't necessarily mean it is better. Our systems are
totally "Stand Alone." We have no computed values, and do not tie into
aircraft pitot static system. We use a vane like the airliners do. Options include
a
"Poor Mans HUD," a Stick Shaker, and other items requested by our customers.
For more info contact me off list.
Elbie Mendenhall
emaproducts(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon D-10A Ticking |
I finished installing my Dynon last night so I guess its pretty fresh in my
memory. The way I understand it is that the Dynon will turn off if it loses
power after a 30 sec delay. However, since you have the back up battery and
the keep alive circuit active, it will take up to a max of 20 watts from
your ships battery to stay fully charged. If your Dynon didnt power up, it
sounds like there is something wrong with either your Dynon battery or its
charging circuit. Depending on how long you let it sit, its possible the
Dynon drained your ships battery. I would call the folks at Dynon.
Good luck and please report your findings for the rest of us.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon D-10A Ticking
>
> Tonite I had a visitor looking at my RV-4 when he asked if he could turn
> on the master switch. I said "Sure, go ahead" because I always like to see
> the little lights come on and and then hear "ANGLE, ANGLE, PUSH" (Yeah
> that's right, I spent the money for an AOA). Well nothing happened! No
> master relay picking up, no lights, no nothing. I then tried to turn on
> the
> Dynon thinking it would come up on battery back up. Again nothing. The
> entire electrical system was dead. I immediately hooked a battery charger
> to
> my Oddessy PC-680 and started a charge. I tried the master switch again
> and
> everything powered up as expected so obviously the battery was completely
> dead. The problem is I don't know why. I checked all of the switches and
> everything was turned off so I do not think anything was left on.
> So now for the real question. I have noticed lately that the Dyon D-10A
> was making a ticking noise when everything on the plane was turned off.
> The
> tick is about every second. I have the keep alive circuit wired up to an
> always hot bus so that the internal battery in the Dynon will stay charged
> up. I think the noise is from this circuit because I disconnected the
> connector from the back of the Dynon and the noise stopped and resumed
> when
> it was reconnected. Is this ticking noise normal? Could this be the cause
> of
> my dead battery? Will a dead battery on the plane drain the internal
> battery
> on the Dynon? Will a PC-680 go completely dead if you let the voltage get
> down to about 10.5 volts (I have not charged the battery in a while)?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jerry Isler
> RV-4 N455J
> Donalsonville, GA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check flow |
at low pressure ?
Any thoughts on filter fuel flow would be appreciated! I am running an
XP360 carbed engine and want to put a clear fuel filter in each tank feed
line between the tank and the center fuel valve. Russell Performance shows
these filters with a 6AN fitting but says they are no longer in production
and suggests these which have 1/8 npt inlets.
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp?part=RUS-645
420
They are very solid but requite a 1/8 NPT to 6AN adapter and the inlet and
outlet holes (inside the filter just inside the threads) look like about a
3/16 size. Now I am wondering if there is any chance that at full power
this filter might not flow enough fuel. According to the specs, it's a 40
Micron filter and good for 60 GPH at 7 psi.
I know that would be plenty but I also see on the lists that the 360 carbed
engines occasionally show less than 2 PSI and is considered normal. How
would I convert 60 GPH at 7 psi to flow at 1 or 2 psi to check that flow
rate?
Also do you think it would make any difference that the fuel pump is pulling
fuel through the filter as opposed to pushing?
Do I just need to run a gallon through it at no pressure and time it and
then apply some "flow-pressure" formula? If so, what would that be?
I guess I could always drop back to the push on hose type since this is low
pressure but I was trying to stay with all solid connections.
Thanks
Bill S
7a Ark
Fuse/Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dynon D-10A Ticking |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
As a trouble-shooting step, if nothing else, disconnect the keep alive
circut to see if anything changes. I only have the main power input
(avionics buss) and internal battery. I chose not to use the keep-alaive
at all. No problems so far.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Jeff Dowling said:
>
>
> I finished installing my Dynon last night so I guess its pretty fresh in
> my
> memory. The way I understand it is that the Dynon will turn off if it
> loses
> power after a 30 sec delay. However, since you have the back up battery
> and
> the keep alive circuit active, it will take up to a max of 20 watts from
> your ships battery to stay fully charged. If your Dynon didnt power up,
> it
> sounds like there is something wrong with either your Dynon battery or its
> charging circuit. Depending on how long you let it sit, its possible the
> Dynon drained your ships battery. I would call the folks at Dynon.
>
> Good luck and please report your findings for the rest of us.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 200 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon D-10A Ticking
>
>
>>
>> Tonite I had a visitor looking at my RV-4 when he asked if he could
>> turn
>> on the master switch. I said "Sure, go ahead" because I always like to
>> see
>> the little lights come on and and then hear "ANGLE, ANGLE, PUSH" (Yeah
>> that's right, I spent the money for an AOA). Well nothing happened! No
>> master relay picking up, no lights, no nothing. I then tried to turn on
>> the
>> Dynon thinking it would come up on battery back up. Again nothing. The
>> entire electrical system was dead. I immediately hooked a battery
>> charger
>> to
>> my Oddessy PC-680 and started a charge. I tried the master switch again
>> and
>> everything powered up as expected so obviously the battery was
>> completely
>> dead. The problem is I don't know why. I checked all of the switches and
>> everything was turned off so I do not think anything was left on.
>> So now for the real question. I have noticed lately that the Dyon D-10A
>> was making a ticking noise when everything on the plane was turned off.
>> The
>> tick is about every second. I have the keep alive circuit wired up to an
>> always hot bus so that the internal battery in the Dynon will stay
>> charged
>> up. I think the noise is from this circuit because I disconnected the
>> connector from the back of the Dynon and the noise stopped and resumed
>> when
>> it was reconnected. Is this ticking noise normal? Could this be the
>> cause
>> of
>> my dead battery? Will a dead battery on the plane drain the internal
>> battery
>> on the Dynon? Will a PC-680 go completely dead if you let the voltage
>> get
>> down to about 10.5 volts (I have not charged the battery in a while)?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jerry Isler
>> RV-4 N455J
>> Donalsonville, GA
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check |
flow at...
In a message dated 5/26/05 8:19:04 AM Central Daylight Time,
billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net writes:
> I guess I could always drop back to the push on hose type since this is low
> pressure but I was trying to stay with all solid connections.
>
>>>>>>>>
Hi Bill-
I've been using these (Purolator PRO-806) for about 180 hours now with hose
clamps on 3/8" fuel line. Mounted in wing roots between pickup tubes and al
line to selector valve, then to Facet pump (carbureted engine, but filter is
basically no pressure) Works great so far using autogas and 100LL...
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/manufacturerminorcategory.asp?Universal%20Fuel%20Filters
Bought mine on the aviation aisle at the local Advance Auto Parts, $12.95
each.
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EMAproducts(at)aol.com |
Those of you questioning if an AOA would show inverted flight ~~ We have
developed a system which will show inverted and upright AOA at the request of a
few aerobatic instructors. This system uses many more LED's than our current
system, and shows the AOA either upright or inverted, after all, the vane just
measures the relative wind, what makes the airplane fly.
Currently it is being evaluated on borate bombers to show a "trend" of their
G loads, etc., and how much they can pull and still be safe. Negative has
nothing to do with this evaluation, but is same instrument.
Our standard "RiteAngle IIIb" was designed to conform to FAA design criteria,
electronics, color of LED's accuracy as per FAR's. We are working on an AML
certified version at current time for Beechcraft, Piper, Cessna, Maule, &
Mooney. The exact same RiteAngle is flying on aircraft from Ultralights, RV's
Lancairs from 360 to an IVP Turboprop and all production 16,000 # turboprop work
plane.
Please contact me off list, I prefer not to "advertise" on this builders list.
Elbie
EM Aviation, LLC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Glare shield paint |
I was at the point of doing my glare shield on my 7 Tip up and was looking for
options. One day while changing oil in my truck I discovered a can of black BBQ
grill paint in the cabinet. Heck, it is designed to handle extreme heat, is
flat in color and although black, does not retain heat. What else could you ask
for?
I did a test piece of aluminum with normal paint prep. After drying for a day I
tried to chip it off. Didn't work, the paint held firm.
Many RV's that I have seen with fabric or other covering often have bubbling problems.
The BBQ paint looks great and I don't have to worry about redoing later.
Darwin N. Barrie
P19
RV7 wiring!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't buy too soon WAS:Ameri-King defective ELT from the |
box
Hi all,
A word of advice from a builder & completer: Don't buy readily attached stuff for
your project too early as most vendors start warranty as of the date on your
reciept. Moreover, much hi-tech stuff drops in price over time so that by buying
early you pay a premium.
Naturally, there are times when it pays to buy early like when someone offers a
super bargain.
There is a company which makes plastic auto engines for some so that a custom car
builder can use it for fitting to a chassis. These would be great for us but
the volume might be too low. What I will do when I build another is buy a
core. Then, when I need the real thing, sell it. When I built my RV I bought
the engine more than a year early losing the interest income on over $20,000.
Actually, I would have put the money in the stock market and made more like
25% on it. Too bad I didn't take other money out at the time I really needed
the engine as that was about the top of the market.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | AOA indicator for $60 (corrected links) |
(CORRECTED LINKS)
Here are some ideas for a homemade AOA, airspeed warning or stall warning, you
can make or by for less than $90:
You can make an AOA for $60 and it will work just like the LRI (Lift reserve indicator)
Sam Buchanan mentions below. The instructions to make it are here and
look very easy to duplicate:
http://www.snyder.on.ca/pages/lri.htm
It shows a nice drawing for making a probe out of a piece of aluminum bar. The
gage is made from an off-the-shelf industrial differential pressure gage. The
2-1/6 dia. gage is mechanical and very sensitive. Specs for 2-5002 gage:
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/pressure/Series2-5000Price.cfm
This was off a Sonex Builders Web Site, and yes there are other home built kits
out there. I would imagine the probe could be made from other materials and the
face of the gage can be modified with color-coded lift scale (provided in instructions).
Also there is a version of the LRI, Aircraft Angle of Attack 2.25"
Instrument Kit, on eBay for $325.
Indicated airspeed warning is not AOA. There is a big difference and the uEncoder
does not have AOA info, but does have a low speed airspeed warning. Which certainly
could be of some use at least in wings level 1G flight. You could install
a pressure switch and relay to make a visual and/or aural alarm for low speed.
The aural alarm could be a simple sound effect circuit from and electronic
kit that is connected to the aircrafts radios or intercoms aux input. Cost
could be done for $50 or less. You would have to figure out how to keep it from
going off on the ground. (ideas).
You can buy or make stall tab with a micro switch like factory planes have (less
than $90). These are true AOA sensors but with only one indication, (near) critical
angle of attack.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/redstallwarner.php
You can check out a RV-6a builders site that shows this set up, LOOK left side
bottom and click -Stall warning
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/
I think AOA, airspeed and stall warning are all good, but I don't think you need
to spend thousands of dollars. In fact there is another unit called Riteangle,
off the shelf stall warning. Worth a look and lots of installed pictures on
RVs and other experimental aircraft. My RV does not have any of the above and
have flown for over 800 hours without un-intentionally stalling. I have stalled
my RV in all attitudes intentionally up to 3-G loading. That helps develop
a feel for what it does near critical angle of attack. The FAA calls this stall
avoidance or awareness. Of course if you plan on being inattentive to airspeed
control than you need one of the above, but guess no one plans on loosing airspeed
control. RVs fly very slow and have a small range of angle of attack.
Jets have very large range of operational angle of attack and don't have sufficient
natural feel, thus they need artificial stick shakers and AOA indicators.
AOA indicator for a RV is an option, a good one opt
ion, but
it is not necessary to fly safely. Fly airspeed with normal margins (Vso x 1.3)
and you will be OK. In RV aerobatics under load, the buffet is obvious before
stall.
Cheers George
============================================
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
> posted by: "Ron Brown"
>
> If you have got to spend $800, I would highly recommend the RMI uEncoder kit.
It has a > stall horn included - along with:
> http://www.rkymtn.com/EncFeatures.htm
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA indicator?
>> posted by: Sam Buchanan
>>
>> I have no interest in resurrecting the old debate about which AOA system is
"best", but >> for new listers who may be researching angle of attack systems,
here is an article about >> my installation of the Lift Reserve
>>
>> Indicator:http://thervjournal.com/liftreserve.htm
>>
>> After flying the LRI for several years, I consider it a valuable part of the
panel.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield covering |
Good question, Lucky! I just blindly accepted what Cee Bailey Plastics said.
I tried just now looking up "react acrylic vinyl" on Google and was overwhelmed
with chemical jibberish. I have a friend who is a PhD Chemist - mainly food
chemistry. I'll ask him when I next see him.
Didn't someone caution against other materials reacting badly with acrylic? Aren't
some of the sticky resins we glue on canopy fairings bad to use? Doesn't
it seem like anything can react with anything to some extent? Maybe you didn't
know this either, water will dissolve glass. It takes quite a long time,
of course.
Maybe someone will write to Plexiglass Inc or whatever their name is.
hal
lucky wrote:
vinyl is going to cause acrylic to break? I've never heard that one before. Where
can one read up on a test that proves that?
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Consider that Cee Bailey Plastics, makers of high quality transparencies, says
> that vinyl is the enemy of acrylic. A vinyl glareshield can cause an acrylic
> windsheild to crack in less than a year it is said.
>
> I cut the sheet metal back to within half an inch of the panel. I don't know
> quite why I didn't go a little further. In an accident, that sheet metal could
> act like a cleaver. I returned the overhang with very thin aluminum painted
> prop flat black. It is still not done but I'm getting there. My next panel
> will have a crash strip of some sort.
>
> hal
>
> RV6a Oshkosh 4th time this year??
>
>
>
>
>
>
vinyl is going to cause acrylic to break? I've never heard that one before. Where
can one read up on a test that proves that?
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne
Consider that Cee Bailey Plastics, makers of high quality transparencies, says
that vinyl is the enemy of acrylic. A vinyl glareshield can cause an acrylic
windsheild to crack in less than a year it is said.
I cut the sheet metal back to within half an inch of the panel. I don't know
quite why I didn't go a little further. In an accident, that sheet metal could
act like a cleaver. I returned the overhang with very thin aluminum painted
prop flat black. It is still not done but I'm getting there. My next panel
will have a crash strip of some sort.
hal
RV6a Oshkosh 4th time this year??
====================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't buy too soon WAS:Ameri-King defective ELT from |
the box
When to buy the engine is something I've been thinking about a little
lately. I know you need it (or a core) fairly quickly on a full QB kit.
Buying a core then selling it later sounds like a good idea, but even
that's $5K or so (320).
Most engine builders will delay the warranty 3-6 months but then you
have the preservation issues. If you're going to buy an engine when you
need it to do the FWF I suppose it will be absolutely mandatory that you
pickle it unless you are a very fast builder. I would guess that most
see 6-12 months or more from the time they hang the engine to first flight?
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
>
>Hi all,
>
>A word of advice from a builder & completer: Don't buy readily attached stuff
for your project too early as most vendors start warranty as of the date on your
reciept. Moreover, much hi-tech stuff drops in price over time so that by
buying early you pay a premium.
>
>Naturally, there are times when it pays to buy early like when someone offers
a super bargain.
>
>There is a company which makes plastic auto engines for some so that a custom
car builder can use it for fitting to a chassis. These would be great for us
but the volume might be too low. What I will do when I build another is buy a
core. Then, when I need the real thing, sell it. When I built my RV I bought
the engine more than a year early losing the interest income on over $20,000.
Actually, I would have put the money in the stock market and made more like
25% on it. Too bad I didn't take other money out at the time I really needed
the engine as that was about the top of the market.
>
>hal
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check |
flow at...
Hi Mark,
Do you often find any crud in the filter?
Mickey
> I've been using these (Purolator PRO-806) for about 180 hours now with hose
> clamps on 3/8" fuel line. Mounted in wing roots between pickup tubes and al
> line to selector valve, then to Facet pump (carbureted engine, but filter is
> basically no pressure) Works great so far using autogas and 100LL...
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8a site updated |
| From: | "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall(at)enid.org> |
Hi everyone,
I just thought I would let everyone know that I have healed enough from my RV inflicted
spider bite to finally update the site.
Cheers,
Stephanie Marshall
www.rv-8a.4t.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
NOTHING WRONG WITH AN AOA INDICATOR, BUT,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
LETS NOT OVERSTATE THE VALUE OF THE AOA FOR A LITTLE AIRPLANE.
COMPARISONS TO JETS ARE NOT REALLY VALID; JETS NEED IT.
LANDING (FLARE) IS NOT THE IDEAL USE FOR AN AOA INDICATOR.
AEROBATICS CAN BE DONE SAFELY WITHOUT AN AOA.
WHEN DO YOU FLY SLOW = APPROACH&LANDING.
YOU SHOULD BE LOOKING OUT THE CANOPY AND CROSS CHECKING AIRSPEED.
I DON'T STARE AT THE AIRSPEED INDICATOR OR EVEN AN AOA IF I HAD IT WHEN LANDING
OR DOING AEROBATICS.
DO LOTS OF PRACTICE: POWER ON STALL, POWER OFF STALL, ACCELERATED STALLS and SLOW
FLIGHT
LEARN WHAT YOUR PLANE FEELS LIKE AND MAKE YOUR BUTT AN AOA.
RV's HAVE A FAIRLY GOOD INDICATION OF PRE-STALL IF YOU KNOW WHAT IT FEELS LIKE.
GADGETS WILL NEVER REPLACE AIRMANSHIP.
>Bob
>I fly mostly aerobatics and I have had some inadvertent inverted stalls. No big
deal, just pull >back on the stick and you are flying again.
YOU MEAN PUSH OR RELEASE BACK PRESSURE NOT PULL,
THE AIRPLANE DOES NOT CARE IF IT STALLS UPSIDE DOWN OR NOT
IF YOU BUFFET INVERTED YOU RELEASE BACK PRESSURE, BUFFET STOPS
WHEN I DEMO AEROBATICS ON THE TOP OF A LOOP, PULL=BUFFET, RELEASE=FLY
DON'T NEED AN AOA TO DO AEROBATICS
RIGHT, A BUFFET OR STALL INVERTERTED IS NO BIG DEAL
SHOULD YOU BE LOOKING OUT THE CANOPY DOING AEROBATICS
>John:
>We have AOA in HRII N561FS. We installed the indicator on the upper right of
>the panel. As we found out later Gummibear looks out the left side of the
>Rocket during final & in flare.
IF YOU NEED AN AOA TO LAND, WELL.......KABONG,
NICE TO HAVE BUT I AM SURE YOU CAN MAKE THOSE SQUEAKERS WITHOUT IT :- )
>Wally
>I asked a friend of mine who flew in the military, now an airline captain
>and has test flown many RV's which he would prefer in the back seat of my -4 if
>I were to put one instrument there. An airspeed or and AOA. He said hands
>down, an AOA.
YES AIRLINERS HAVE AOA VANES,
JETS HAVE LITTLE OR NO NATURAL CONTROL FEEL,
AOA AND FEEL COMPUTERS GIVE THE FEEDBACK ON JETS,
AOA INPUT GOES DIRECT TO STALL COMPUTER/STICKSHAKER,
A RV IS NOT A SWEPT WING, HIGH WING-LOADED, LARGE JET-LINER,
AIRLINERS SO NOT HAVE AOA DIRECTLY VISIBLE TO PILOT ON B737/737/767/747,
ON THE PFD (PRIMARY FLT DISPLAY). NICE TO HAVE BUT WE DON'T STALL JETS UNLESS
IN THE SIMULATOR
>JOHN:
>AOA is not just a stall warning devise. The "normal" stall warning goes off when
it's almost >too late.
EVEN THE LOWLY CESSNA STALL WARNING WILL COME ON BEFORE STALL
AS A CFI I HAVE FLOWN ON THE STALL HORN AND BELOW MANY TIMES.
THOSE STALL WARNING TABS ARE AOA INDICATORS; THEY DO WORK.
THE AOA IS A NICE THING TO HAVE, BUT FLY THE AIRSPEED ADJUSTED FOR:
AIRCRAFT WEIGHT, LOAD FACTOR AND WING-GUST.
REMEMBER:
45 DEGREE BANK STALL INCREASES 20%
60 DEGREE BANK STALL INCREASES 40%
RV (2 SEATS, NOT RV9) STALL APPROX 51 (SOLO)
RV (2 SEATS, NOT RV9) STALL APPROX 58 (GROSS)
FLY INITIAL PATTERN AT APRROX 80-85MPH (MOST COND)
IF YOU BUFFET, RELEASE BACK PRESSURE, ADD PWR, LEVEL WINGS
CHEERS GEORGE
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
http://rv7-a.com/stopit.gif
LOL :)
On 05/26 11:59, gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> NOTHING WRONG WITH AN AOA INDICATOR, BUT,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>
>
> LETS NOT OVERSTATE THE VALUE OF THE AOA FOR A LITTLE AIRPLANE.
>
> COMPARISONS TO JETS ARE NOT REALLY VALID; JETS NEED IT.
>
> LANDING (FLARE) IS NOT THE IDEAL USE FOR AN AOA INDICATOR.
>
> AEROBATICS CAN BE DONE SAFELY WITHOUT AN AOA.
>
>
> WHEN DO YOU FLY SLOW = APPROACH&LANDING.
>
> YOU SHOULD BE LOOKING OUT THE CANOPY AND CROSS CHECKING AIRSPEED.
>
>
> I DON'T STARE AT THE AIRSPEED INDICATOR OR EVEN AN AOA IF I HAD IT WHEN LANDING
OR DOING AEROBATICS.
>
>
> DO LOTS OF PRACTICE: POWER ON STALL, POWER OFF STALL, ACCELERATED STALLS and
SLOW FLIGHT
>
>
> LEARN WHAT YOUR PLANE FEELS LIKE AND MAKE YOUR BUTT AN AOA.
>
>
> RV's HAVE A FAIRLY GOOD INDICATION OF PRE-STALL IF YOU KNOW WHAT IT FEELS LIKE.
>
>
> GADGETS WILL NEVER REPLACE AIRMANSHIP.
>
>
> >Bob
> >I fly mostly aerobatics and I have had some inadvertent inverted stalls. No
big deal, just pull >back on the stick and you are flying again.
>
>
> YOU MEAN PUSH OR RELEASE BACK PRESSURE NOT PULL,
>
> THE AIRPLANE DOES NOT CARE IF IT STALLS UPSIDE DOWN OR NOT
>
> IF YOU BUFFET INVERTED YOU RELEASE BACK PRESSURE, BUFFET STOPS
>
> WHEN I DEMO AEROBATICS ON THE TOP OF A LOOP, PULL=BUFFET, RELEASE=FLY
>
>
> DON'T NEED AN AOA TO DO AEROBATICS
>
> RIGHT, A BUFFET OR STALL INVERTERTED IS NO BIG DEAL
>
> SHOULD YOU BE LOOKING OUT THE CANOPY DOING AEROBATICS
>
>
> >John:
> >We have AOA in HRII N561FS. We installed the indicator on the upper right of
> >the panel. As we found out later Gummibear looks out the left side of the
> >Rocket during final & in flare.
>
>
> IF YOU NEED AN AOA TO LAND, WELL.......KABONG,
>
> NICE TO HAVE BUT I AM SURE YOU CAN MAKE THOSE SQUEAKERS WITHOUT IT :- )
>
>
> >Wally
> >I asked a friend of mine who flew in the military, now an airline captain
> >and has test flown many RV's which he would prefer in the back seat of my -4
if
> >I were to put one instrument there. An airspeed or and AOA. He said hands
> >down, an AOA.
>
>
> YES AIRLINERS HAVE AOA VANES,
>
> JETS HAVE LITTLE OR NO NATURAL CONTROL FEEL,
>
> AOA AND FEEL COMPUTERS GIVE THE FEEDBACK ON JETS,
>
> AOA INPUT GOES DIRECT TO STALL COMPUTER/STICKSHAKER,
>
> A RV IS NOT A SWEPT WING, HIGH WING-LOADED, LARGE JET-LINER,
>
> AIRLINERS SO NOT HAVE AOA DIRECTLY VISIBLE TO PILOT ON B737/737/767/747,
>
>
ON THE PFD (PRIMARY FLT DISPLAY). NICE TO HAVE BUT WE DON'T STALL JETS UNLESS
IN THE SIMULATOR
>
>
> >JOHN:
>
> >AOA is not just a stall warning devise. The "normal" stall warning goes off
when it's almost >too late.
>
>
> EVEN THE LOWLY CESSNA STALL WARNING WILL COME ON BEFORE STALL
>
> AS A CFI I HAVE FLOWN ON THE STALL HORN AND BELOW MANY TIMES.
>
> THOSE STALL WARNING TABS ARE AOA INDICATORS; THEY DO WORK.
>
>
> THE AOA IS A NICE THING TO HAVE, BUT FLY THE AIRSPEED ADJUSTED FOR:
>
> AIRCRAFT WEIGHT, LOAD FACTOR AND WING-GUST.
>
>
> REMEMBER:
>
> 45 DEGREE BANK STALL INCREASES 20%
>
> 60 DEGREE BANK STALL INCREASES 40%
>
> RV (2 SEATS, NOT RV9) STALL APPROX 51 (SOLO)
>
> RV (2 SEATS, NOT RV9) STALL APPROX 58 (GROSS)
>
> FLY INITIAL PATTERN AT APRROX 80-85MPH (MOST COND)
>
> IF YOU BUFFET, RELEASE BACK PRESSURE, ADD PWR, LEVEL WINGS
>
>
> CHEERS GEORGE
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
>I fly mostly aerobatics and I have had some inadvertent inverted
>stalls. No big deal, just pull >back on the stick and you are flying again.
>
>YOU MEAN PUSH OR RELEASE BACK PRESSURE NOT PULL,
>THE AIRPLANE DOES NOT CARE IF IT STALLS UPSIDE DOWN OR NOT
>IF YOU BUFFET INVERTED YOU RELEASE BACK PRESSURE, BUFFET STOPS
>WHEN I DEMO AEROBATICS ON THE TOP OF A LOOP, PULL=BUFFET, RELEASE=FLY
>
>DON'T NEED AN AOA TO DO AEROBATICS
I am not sure what you point is. But I agree, you do not need an AOA to do
aerobatics, you also do not need a transponder, ELT, ASI, altimeter,
compass, radio or even an engine, but I bet you have all that stuff when
you fly aerobatics. I have flown aerobatics in a hang glider with out all
the gadets, just me, the hang glider (minus flight instruments) and my
harness w/parachute.
As far as buffet while inverted, there is no back pressure in my RV while
inverted, I use forward pressure to hold the RV in level inverted flight,
therefore to reduce stall, I release forward pressure or increase back
pressure. At the top of the loop when I am floating the aircraft over the
top, my stalls occur when I do not maintain sufficient back pressure or to
much forward pressure.
As for the comment that during aerobatics you should be looking out the
window, I agree and disagree. First of all at 5000 feet AGL, I am not
going to hit anything or anyone (if I did my clearing turns and I am in the
aerobatic practice area). Second, looking outside is for ground reference
to insure the aircraft attitude is where it should be. But, especially in
the RV, you must watch the airspeed indicator to insure that the maneuver
you are doing will not take you beyond the limits of the aircraft. I know
enough to know that if I pull into a split S at 160KTS, I am in deep
trouble. I do my split S below 100KTS. How do I know? I look at the ASI
before I do it! Same goes for the reverse cuban eight.
One might say, that I can learn my RVs speeds by sight, sound and
feel. Yes to some degree. I do know my RV and I have actually done a
landing without the ASI at night and made the 1000 foot turn off at my
airport (one of the best landings I have ever made). Do I do that every
flight? No! On that flight, I had an electrical problem with the
electronic ASI and it went black! I have proven that I do not need the
ASI, But, I use the ASI often while flying in all phases of flight to
include aerobatics and I would not take off if it did not work.
Since no one on the list has seen me do a loop, let us not get into a
technical debate on how I do one. However, I am looking for an aerobatic
coach, if you qualify, I would be interested in hiring you.
As for the purpose or need for an AOA, unless the FAA tells me different,
it is my airplane and I will decide if it needs one or not!
I am not a big fan of the AOA, I do not have one and have never used
one. But, if an RV builder wants one in his aircraft, who am I to say
otherwise?
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
>>I fly mostly aerobatics and I have had some inadvertent inverted stalls.
>>No big deal, just pull >back on the stick and you are flying again.
>
> YOU MEAN PUSH OR RELEASE BACK PRESSURE NOT PULL,
>
George,
You are not correct, in an "inverted stall," or negative angle of attack
stall, you would "pull" back on the stick. If it was a "stall while
inverted" you would release the back pressure or push.
This list does not constitute aerobatic training. The potential for
misunderstanding/miscommunication, given the wide range of experience, in
this venue is HUGE. When these discussions get into the far reaches of RV
flying, everyone should have their salt shaker handy.
I am all for AOA! BUT an AOA indicator not what you need to get out of an
upright or inverted spin. What is required is aerobatic training.
Those who say that the AOA will keep you out of the spin, are correct in
normal flying. Aerobatic flying is a different animal, you are often
moving angle of attack so quickly that the AOA is of little value. It will
help tighten up a loop or a turn, but in acro, you will often have no
indicated airspeed and all AOA devices require airspeed to function.
Again I refer to the hammerhead example in my previous post. The AOA would
be at zero on the vertical line, then at near zero airspeed, whatever
indication it would might have would be useless. These are all "head
outside" maneuvers. You do not judge the kick in a hammerhead by looking at
the ASI. You do it by looking outside, and the noise and feel of the
airplane. On a "real aerobatic" airplane, a piece of yarn hanging on the
outside attitude indicator (the one attached to the wing tip that looks like
an antenna) will tell you when you have stopped forward motion.
I have said before, and I will be redundant. RV's are lousy aerobatic
airplanes that happen to do great acro. RV's are horrible aerobatic
trainers. With regard to acro, nothing you put in your panel will replace
dual instruction.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator |
>
>The most common way to inadvertantly do an "inverted stall" is in a
>hammerhead. The nose gets past vertical, so you push forward, then kick
>rudder with some outside aileron, and Viola, Inverted stall, quickly
>followed by an inverted spin.
A very good point, and thanks for reminding me. I have done many
hammerheads but I have not done the inverted stall with the inverted spin
from one yet, but...
Has anyone on the list actually done an inverted spin in an RV?
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
>Bob
>I fly mostly aerobatics and I have had some inadvertent inverted stalls. No
big deal, just pull >back on the stick and you are flying again.
YOU MEAN PUSH OR RELEASE BACK PRESSURE NOT PULL,
THE AIRPLANE DOES NOT CARE IF IT STALLS UPSIDE DOWN OR NOT
IF YOU BUFFET INVERTED YOU RELEASE BACK PRESSURE, BUFFET STOPS
No, I beleive he means pull back to break an inverted stall.. re-read his post
about neg-G stalls.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check |
flow at...
In a message dated 05/26/2005 1:50:08 PM Central Standard Time,
mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes:
Do you often find any crud in the filter?
>>>>
Not really- just some small particles that look like flecks of pro-seal- Will
probably replace them at 200 hour inspection. I wanted the see-thrus
originally to see how much stuff was actually coming out of the tank (no gascolator),
but it's been very minimal- never cleaned 'em and never seen any water in 'em
neither. Even though they've never leaked I'll likely replace with sealed
metal-cased filters and change every 2-300 hrs or so from then on.
I also have screens on the tank pickup tubes and will reverse-flow them to
flush 'em at the same time to see what if anything has collected there...
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon D-10A Ticking |
Jerry Isler wrote:
> tick is about every second. I have the keep alive circuit wired up to an
> always hot bus so that the internal battery in the Dynon will stay charged
> up. I think the noise is from this circuit because I disconnected the
> connector from the back of the Dynon and the noise stopped and resumed when
> it was reconnected. Is this ticking noise normal? Could this be the cause of
> my dead battery? Will a dead battery on the plane drain the internal battery
> on the Dynon? Will a PC-680 go completely dead if you let the voltage get
> down to about 10.5 volts (I have not charged the battery in a while)?
I don't know about any ticking, however I did notice some
odd behavior of the Dynon before I was flying.
My primary power is switched from the avionics bus. The
secondary power is always hot on an aux battery, as well
as the keepalive power.
When the batteries fell to about 10V, the Dynon would go into
a cycle of powering up, then immediately beginning its 20 sec
countdown and shutoff.
I suspect this is some kind of threshold where the unit is
sensing a logical edge in the battery power and deciding
to power up and down based on that - similar to the way it
powers up and down when the primary power is applied or removed.
Fortunately, I was in the hangar when I noticed this, so I
pulled the Aux circuit breaker and stopped the cycling before
it killed the battery altogether.
Now that I am flying (and thus charging the batteries) regularly,
I have not noticed any unusual drains on the batteries, even after
a couple of weeks of sitting.
- Tim.
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | IO-360 crank gear |
Hi
I need to have a crankshaft gear modified per SB475C.
this means cutting 3 bigger scallops and undercutting part of the gear back.
Can anybody recommend an outfit who can modify this gear per Lycoming
SB475C
Thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Lumpkin <tlump51(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Inverted Flight Belts (was AOA Indicator) |
With all the discussion about inverted flight, I am curious. Have any of you installed
a redundant seat belt in your RV's? If so, what did you use for mounting
points? I didn't see anything in a quick archive search.
I haven't done any sustained inverted flight in my RV-4 yet, but I'm interested
in doing so and would like the security of the extra belt.
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA indicator? |
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>
>
>
>>RV-List message posted by: Bob
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>>I fly mostly aerobatics and I have had some inadvertent inverted stalls.
>>>No big deal, just pull >back on the stick and you are flying again.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>YOU MEAN PUSH OR RELEASE BACK PRESSURE NOT PULL,
>>
>>
>>
>
>George,
>
>You are not correct, in an "inverted stall," or negative angle of attack
>stall, you would "pull" back on the stick. If it was a "stall while
>inverted" you would release the back pressure or push.
>
>This list does not constitute aerobatic training. The potential for
>misunderstanding/miscommunication, given the wide range of experience, in
>this venue is HUGE. When these discussions get into the far reaches of RV
>flying, everyone should have their salt shaker handy.
>
>I am all for AOA! BUT an AOA indicator not what you need to get out of an
>upright or inverted spin. What is required is aerobatic training.
>
>Those who say that the AOA will keep you out of the spin, are correct in
>normal flying. Aerobatic flying is a different animal, you are often
>moving angle of attack so quickly that the AOA is of little value. It will
>help tighten up a loop or a turn, but in acro, you will often have no
>indicated airspeed and all AOA devices require airspeed to function.
>
>Again I refer to the hammerhead example in my previous post. The AOA would
>be at zero on the vertical line, then at near zero airspeed, whatever
>indication it would might have would be useless. These are all "head
>outside" maneuvers. You do not judge the kick in a hammerhead by looking at
>the ASI. You do it by looking outside, and the noise and feel of the
>airplane. On a "real aerobatic" airplane, a piece of yarn hanging on the
>outside attitude indicator (the one attached to the wing tip that looks like
>an antenna) will tell you when you have stopped forward motion.
>
>I have said before, and I will be redundant. RV's are lousy aerobatic
>airplanes that happen to do great acro. RV's are horrible aerobatic
>trainers. With regard to acro, nothing you put in your panel will replace
>dual instruction.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>
I agree, Phil in Litchfield, IL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Hose Fittings |
I am trying to decide which hose fittings I need for my Oil and Fuel lines.
I have steel adapter fittings (pipe to AN) in the engine, cooler and fuel
pump. Should the hose ends also be steel, or will Aluminum suffice on the
hose? The steel fittings get expensive quick so if you know of a good low
end source, I could be interested.
Marty in Brentwood TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kent" <jakent(at)unison.ie> |
| Subject: | AoA indicator - try a different angle!! |
Here is a simple (and cheap-ish) idea.
How about getting one of those Ray Allen (MAC) position sensors ($34) hooked
to a small vane positioned in the relative airflow. Maybe in the fuselage
side, vertical stabilizer, wing-tip, or where-ever -- the hardware and
wires required are very light.
Then use one of the Ray Allen LED indicators ($70) (it might be even better
if some of the green LEDs could be changed for red/amber), positioned in
your eye-line on the panel, and voila! - a non-Proprietary,
Professional-looking, Bacon-saving, Lift Reserve device for just over $100
with money left in the bank!
Cheers . John Kent (EI-DIY RV-4)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Insurance rates for RV's |
Hi All,
I just received a call from Nation Air with two annual premium quotes for my
RV-4. As many are already aware, the carrier Nation Air had been using for
our RV policies has elected not to renew any of those policies. The new
carriers are AIG and EAA. My AIG quote is $1465 and the EAA quote is $1470.
This is based on $60,000 hull value and the pilot (me) with about 900TT
and 250 hours in the RV. Last year I paid $1270. Have anyone else found
better options?
Dean Pichon
Bolton, MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance rates for RV's |
OUR RV7 RENEWAL IN APRIL WENT FROM $1801 TO $2175 FOR $100K HULL. MY PARTNER
IS LOW TIME WITH 3000 HRS. IT JUST CONTINUES TO GET WORSE. HOW ABOUT SOME
FEEDBACK FROM U GUYS WITH 10'S. I HATE TO EVEN ASK ABOUT THEM......
REGARDS,
DOUG PRESTON
BHM
RV7 FLYING
RV7A HOPEFULLY THIS FALL
RV10 TAIL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance rates for RV's |
The quote I got from NationAir on a 10 (I had been planning on building a 10)
was the same as a 9 for the same hull value. Of course, a 10 is typically
going to have a higher hull value.
Ken Scott at Van's told me that he does not insure his hull, except non-moving
insurance (hangar collapse, etc.) Got me thinking. You'll save a lot of money
over 10-15 years doing that. I don't know that I could be that gutsy, though.
~Paul
P.S. 3000 hours is "low-time"?!? :->
--- DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> OUR RV7 RENEWAL IN APRIL WENT FROM $1801 TO $2175 FOR $100K HULL. MY PARTNER
>
> IS LOW TIME WITH 3000 HRS. IT JUST CONTINUES TO GET WORSE. HOW ABOUT SOME
> FEEDBACK FROM U GUYS WITH 10'S. I HATE TO EVEN ASK ABOUT THEM......
> REGARDS,
> DOUG PRESTON
> BHM
> RV7 FLYING
> RV7A HOPEFULLY THIS FALL
> RV10 TAIL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob 1" <rv3a.1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance rates for RV's |
The new
carriers are AIG and EAA. My AIG quote is $1465 and the EAA quote is $1470.
This is based on $60,000 hull value and the pilot (me) with about 900TT
and 250 hours in the RV. Last year I paid $1270. Have anyone else found
better options?
-----------------------------------------
I'm a high time tailwheel Commercial pilot with most ratings and over 500
hours in my RV-3.
However, this matters not to the darlings of Avemco.
A month ago, they would not offer hull coverage for RV-3's at any price.
And the quote for RV-3 liability alone was close to what I paid for $31,000
full coverage from Phoenix.
AIG through AOPA has offered me the best full coverage rate to date and it's
nearly 40% more than last year.
Sooo, same question....
Is there anything better out there in Insurance Land?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Clear Fuel Filters for Carbed engines ? How do you check |
flow at low pressure ?
The Purolator PRO 806 fuel filters some are talking about using have a replacable
filter element held in place with a nut. This nut can back off and block the
fuel flow unless the filter is disassembled, the central shaft drilled, and
a cotter pin installed to prevent the nut from backing off due to vibration.
Otherwise, the filter seems well suited to the carburetted Lycoming.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
Hi All,
Last week I started my RV4 for the first time and found a brake problem. The
brakes are applied when the rudder petals are moved left or right. I first
thought it was my big feet but today while pulling it back in the hangar
with my new Bogart Aviation towbar I found the brakes are applied with a
small movement of the rudder. Anyone had this problem? Anyone with a
suggestion?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
Bruce,
there should be some stuff in the archives about this. All 6's with the over
hang pedals, and the 8's seem to have this problem, IE angle of pedal when
deflected causes toe to activate the brakes. First I've heard of it on a 4,
but if the plane stops rocking when you deflect the rudder it ought to be
corrected.
I know of several incidents, nose overs or failed nose gear related to it,
but most just deny the problem exists.
Fix is to make something on the lower portion of the pedal below the pedal
pivot for brake action, that extends aftwards enough for your foot ball to
ride on it so that in max deflection your toes won't rock the pedal.
I used a half tube of 2" alum tube attached to the bottom of the pedal. Many
others at my airport have copied this and prefer the feel of the pedal as
well.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't buy too soon WAS:Ameri-King defective ELT from the |
box
Paul Folbrecht wrote:
Buying a core then selling it later sounds like a good idea, but even
that's $5K or so (320).
but it is only a loan - even if you buy the core for $5K and sell for $4K you will
probably be ahead
Most engine builders will delay the warranty 3-6 months but then you
wind up taking much longer to complete the bird? Manys the slip twixt cup and
lip.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
I have a Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) and want to add an audio warning to it.
Has anyone experimented with a pressure differential switch (the LRI needle
operates by indicating pressure differential) to actuate a warning tone in
your headset? The LRI manufacturer has told me for three years he is working on
this. I am tired of waiting for something he is likely not going to develop
and want to develop something on my own.
Pete - Clearwater, FL
RV-6, getting ready for test flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | RV Insurance Rates |
I am low time - 500 hours or so, fly RV6A, don't need hull or passenger
coverage, got $1 Mil liability only with hangar (premises coverage) for
$478 from Avemco.
FWIW
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
It's been a few years since I installed the brakes in my -4, but I have had
to work on them a couple of times, so perhaps I can offer a few suggestions.
If moving the rudder (from outside the aircraft) can cause a brake to
grab, I would look at two things. First, check that none of the pivots in
the brake/rudder pedal/master cylinder are binding such that moving the
rudder pedal compresses the master cylinder. Similarly, check that the
brake lines are not so short or so stiff that moving the rudder pedal allows
the brake lines to exert a force on the cylinder.
Good luck,
Dean
----Original Message Follows----
From: "brucebell74" <brucebell74(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV4 Brakes
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 16:26:21 -0500
Hi All,
Last week I started my RV4 for the first time and found a brake problem. The
brakes are applied when the rudder petals are moved left or right. I first
thought it was my big feet but today while pulling it back in the hangar
with my new Bogart Aviation towbar I found the brakes are applied with a
small movement of the rudder. Anyone had this problem? Anyone with a
suggestion?
Best regards,
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my
"O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these
carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into
the "mount plate" (VA-131-C).
My question is this: The above hole will allow "dirty air" to enter the
"clean air part of the air box" unless you do something to seal it! What
have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am I missing something??
Thanks,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . . . FWF, etc., etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
I got the same engine and carb. Seal around the cutout using high
temperature silicone stuff, which is red color. Degrease/clean the area
well before application. I bought mine at Autozone. You will use more of
it when you seal up the baffles. Buy at least two tubes of the stuff.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
>
> I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my
> "O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these
> carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into
> the "mount plate" (VA-131-C).
> My question is this: The above hole will allow "dirty air" to enter the
> "clean air part of the air box" unless you do something to seal it! What
> have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am I missing something??
> Thanks,
> Bob Christensen
> RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . . . FWF, etc., etc.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
I used red RTV high temp silicon from NAPA...about $5 for a standard size
caulk tube with a cap. I have various medical syringes around the shop (we
have a nurse in the family) which make excellent dispensers for the tube
since the caulk tube is somewhat bulky. Use the syringes without the
needle and use the original caps as a seal. The silicon can be put into a
small size and a larger size syringe and you will get an 1/8" & about a
1/4" bead respectively with very good quantity control. I caulked all
around the engine baffles, the carburetor mount plate, as chaff pads on my
SCAT tubing, and other uses as I did my FWF and still had about 25% of my
original supply left over after about a year of use and it all remained
fresh with no hardening as long as I capped the tube/syringes.
Dick DeCramer
Southern Minnesota
N500DD Rv6 Slider
0320 Sensenich FP
48 hrs. Flight time
> [Original Message]
> From: Bob C. <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
> To: ; ;
> Date: 5/27/2005 8:25:23 PM
> Subject: RV-List: FAB
>
>
> I'm in the initial stages of fitting my Van's "Filtered Air Box" to my
> "O-360" engine with a Precision MA4-5 carburetor. Like for most of these
> carburetors, I had to cut a hole to allow the bowl drain to protrude into
> the "mount plate" (VA-131-C).
> My question is this: The above hole will allow "dirty air" to enter the
> "clean air part of the air box" unless you do something to seal it! What
> have others done to seal these cracks . . . or am I missing something??
> Thanks,
> Bob Christensen
> RV-8 N678RC - In SE Iowa . . . FWF, etc., etc.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Wing/Horizontal Stab incidence |
Group:
I have my wings plugged into my 6A and am ready to drill the rear spar attach holes,
thus setting the incidence.
I am limited to the amount of positive incidence I can get to .5 degrees without
running into some serious edge distance problems for the 5/16th inch bolts.
The question is......If I set my wing incidence at positive .5 degrees, what should
I do with the Horizontal stabilizer incidence to compensate? Should I set
it to have .5 degrees negative incidence? So If say you could only get .4 degrees
of positive wing incidence, should you set the horizontal stab to .6 degrees
negative incidence? Can I assume that you want the difference between the
two to always be 1 degree?
Thanks in advance. Sure is cool to see an airplane in the hangar with wings on
it for a change!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
setting wing incidence
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing/Horizontal Stab incidence |
Jeff,
You're on the right track. IF the plans call out for a net 1 degree
difference (my plans are packed away, so I can't confirm that figure), try
and maintain that. Set the wing first, then adjust the horizontal to net
the 1 degree difference.
I ran into a similar situation with my airplane but didn't adjust the
horizontal stab. My airplane has light engine/prop combo, so I rationalized
that I might not need the full 1 degree difference in incidence. If I
recall correctly, I've got about a quarter of a degree less than called for
in the plans. The plane flies just fine...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing/Horizontal Stab incidence
>
> Group:
>
> I have my wings plugged into my 6A and am ready to drill the rear spar
> attach holes, thus setting the incidence.
>
> I am limited to the amount of positive incidence I can get to .5 degrees
> without running into some serious edge distance problems for the 5/16th
> inch bolts.
>
> The question is......If I set my wing incidence at positive .5 degrees,
> what should I do with the Horizontal stabilizer incidence to compensate?
> Should I set it to have .5 degrees negative incidence? So If say you
> could only get .4 degrees of positive wing incidence, should you set the
> horizontal stab to .6 degrees negative incidence? Can I assume that you
> want the difference between the two to always be 1 degree?
>
> Thanks in advance. Sure is cool to see an airplane in the hangar with
> wings on it for a change!
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> setting wing incidence
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
"RV-List Digest List"
| Subject: | Lycoming TIO540 For Sale |
Hi Everyone,
I have the following for sale. Lycoming TIO540 A2A
serial number L3848-61
310HP (with the turbo)
The engine was last used in a University wind tunnel and was set at 19" of manifold
pressure. The original log books were lost so it is strictly Experimental
at this point. The engine was used for 880 hours by the University and that was
from the last overhaul.
Several A & P's have looked at the engine and said it looks great. If I don't get
any reasonable offers here I'll put it on Ebay, but I thought I'd offer it
to the group.
I was going to put it on an Aerocomp but bought an RV7 instead. Without the turbo
charger this might be a perfect engine at a great price for an RV10.
$15,000 plus shipping. I have pictures for those who are serious.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EMAproducts(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | AoA indicator - try a different angle!! |
Subject: RV-List: AoA indicator - try a different angle!!
How about getting one of those Ray Allen (MAC) position sensors ($34) hooked
to a small vane positioned in the relative airflow. Maybe in the fuselage
side, vertical stabilizer, wing-tip, or where-ever -- the hardware and
wires required are very light.
Then use one of the Ray Allen LED indicators ($70) a non-Proprietary,
Professional-looking, Bacon-saving, Lift Reserve device for just over $100
with money left in the bank!
<><>Good idea, Give it a whirl ~~ I think you will learn a lot as many of us
have that produce the AOA and AOA type systems. Remember ANY change in flaps
changes the AOA the wing stalls at! There are lots of "Gotcha Ya's" there, I
know. I started trying to get an inexpensive fully usable AOA system 37 years
ago! Please don't mount in the prop blast on fuselage or rudder, it will
kill you if you follow it, will be reading airflow influenced by prop, not what
the wing is seeing. Talk to an aerodynamicist and get a full understanding on
AOA. I'm sure that most of us that produce the systems have had several
consultants to insure we were on the right track. We just have different methods
of
doing similar things. I used the vane as I knew it would measure the
relative wind, others use electronic computations because they were EE's and so
on.
If it were that easy there would be dozens producing usable AOA systems. The
precision instrumentation sensor (dual stainless steel ball bearings, full
military spec) the vane mounts on that we use cost over $50.00! You could go
cheap, but why have unhappy customers when the sensor failed? We spent about 3
years trying to find the sensor we now use.
Competition is always welcome, We all are trying to make flying safer!
Comments off line please as I don't have time to get on web daily.
Elbie
EM Aviation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett(at)objectsciences.com> |
| Subject: | leaking lycoming intake tube |
While changing the oil, I noticed blue fuel stains on the intake tube for
cylinder #4 on my O-360-A1A. Checked with my local A&P, and he said the
gasket where the tube goes into the cylinder is probably leaking. That
certainly appears to be the case.
A few questions:
Where's a good source for the gasket (an actual part number would be good
too)
Any special tricks or traps I should beware of? Looks like it should be
straightforward to unbolt the tube and unscrew the worm gear clamps holding
the rubber sleeve over the bottom of the tube.
Thanks,
Randy
RV-6A
540 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett(at)objectsciences.com> |
| Subject: | howling brake noise |
The rubber o-ring that goes around the cylinder for my brakes started
leaking a few weeks ago. After I replaced the o-rings (both were going
bad), the brakes started making a noise that sounds a lot like an air horn.
I thought it might be some brake fluid left on the pads. Since the pads
were getting rather worn, I replaced them and made sure to clean off the
disk fairly thoroughly. Still get the same noise. I did do the brake
break-in. They stop fine. They don't stick. The noise only occurs when I
lightly to moderately apply the brakes.
Suggestions?
Randy
RV-6A
535 hours flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | leaking lycoming intake tube |
Try Sacramento Sky Ranch http://www.sacskyranch.com/ They have good
pictures and descriptions making it easy to find the right part.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> A few questions:
>
>
> Where's a good source for the gasket (an actual part number
> would be good
> too)
>
>
> Any special tricks or traps I should beware of? Looks like
> it should be straightforward to unbolt the tube and unscrew
> the worm gear clamps holding the rubber sleeve over the
> bottom of the tube.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Randy
>
> RV-6A
>
> 540 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
There were also several lengths of master cylinder return springs that
came out, one set of which were too short. Look in the archives or the
old RVaitors and find the measurement for the correct length. You take
the spring off and measure it. Van's would know the correct length and
could tell you over the phone or by e-mail.
Also: make sure the geometry of the brake set up is correct. If you
didn't build this airplane, sometimes the brackets that hold the master
cylinder will have the holes in the wrong place or not be the correct
shape in the first place. Check your setup with what is called for in
the plans. Also: if the brake shoes are worn enough, the pucks in the
slave cylinder may not retract fully back into the calipers and cause
the brakes to drag.
Just some ideas.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>Last week I started my RV4 for the first time and found a brake
problem. >The brakes are applied when the rudder petals are moved left
or right. I >first thought it was my big feet but today while pulling it
back in the >hangar with my new Bogart Aviation towbar I found the
brakes are applied >with a small movement of the rudder. Anyone had this
problem? Anyone with a
>suggestion?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
I read the stories on RV-4 brake springs and mine were dragging. I just
took off the springs and generously stretched them. The amount of tension to
operate the brake isn't critical.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | leaking lycoming intake tube |
I had the same thing on mine recently. I checked the torque on those two
bolts...problem gone. If that doesn't work, check your Lyc. overhaul or
parts manual for part number. Maint. facilty at at/near your arpt probably
has one in stock. Probably less than $2.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Garrett
> Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 9:45 PM
> To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: leaking lycoming intake tube
>
> -->
>
> While changing the oil, I noticed blue fuel stains on the
> intake tube for cylinder #4 on my O-360-A1A. Checked with my
> local A&P, and he said the gasket where the tube goes into
> the cylinder is probably leaking. That certainly appears to
> be the case.
>
>
> A few questions:
>
>
> Where's a good source for the gasket (an actual part number
> would be good
> too)
>
>
> Any special tricks or traps I should beware of? Looks like
> it should be straightforward to unbolt the tube and unscrew
> the worm gear clamps holding the rubber sleeve over the
> bottom of the tube.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Randy
>
> RV-6A
>
> 540 hours
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | leaking lycoming intake tube |
I believe that you can also find the part number in an Aircraft Spruce
catalog.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <rv6builder48138(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Question re: Tru Trak |
I've tried to contact Tru Trak three times thru their
web site, with no response. Has anyone else had the
same problem?
My question to them: I'm partway thru building the
left wing of my RV-6. If I choose to install a Tru
Trak product, is there anything I need to/can install
in the wing, while I'm working on it?
John
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | New Owner of Jeff Rose's Electroair Ignition Sytems |
I ran across the new web site this morning (thanks Google!!!)
http://www.electroair.net/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Question re: Tru Trak |
//My question to them: I'm partway thru building the
left wing of my RV-6. If I choose to install a Tru
Trak product, is there anything I need to/can install
in the wing, while I'm working on it?
Try the telephone! (g). That answer is easy. You can install the servo unit
in the wing. You can run wires if you want too. I think just about every
homebuilder installing a TruTrak is installing them during construction of
the wing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Question re: Tru Trak |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
I wouldn't give up. They get undated with calls/emails, especially tire-kicker
questions. Fortunately, the couple times I had questions about my TruTrak after
installation, I've always gotten prompt responses and excellent turn-around
when it appeared a gyro was bad (they actually sent out a replacement A/P without
a deposit on the promise I would send in my unit asap--not a universal practice
in the industry!), so don't give up. Good A/P and good people...by my
experience.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Lawson
Subject: RV-List: Question re: Tru Trak
I've tried to contact Tru Trak three times thru their
web site, with no response. Has anyone else had the
same problem?
My question to them: I'm partway thru building the
left wing of my RV-6. If I choose to install a Tru
Trak product, is there anything I need to/can install
in the wing, while I'm working on it?
John
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Langley Fly-in, June 4 |
The annual Western Canada Wing fly-in is next Saturday, June 4, at CYNJ. Gus
Funnell, from Van's Aircraft, will be there, giving a seminar on RV building
along with builders Bob Cutting and Vern Little. There will also be a seminar
on regs and paperwork by Terry Elgood and George McNutt. For more information,
see our web page at http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/.
Hope to see you all there!
---
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question re: Tru Trak |
Think about it. You the pilot sit on the left side of the plane. That
makes the left wing seem heavy. Why add more weight to the left wing.
Besides you have the pitot line there. Better to put tru trac servo in the
right wing.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up Flying it almost as much fun as building
it.......NOT.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Lawson" <rv6builder48138(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Question re: Tru Trak
>
> I've tried to contact Tru Trak three times thru their
> web site, with no response. Has anyone else had the
> same problem?
>
> My question to them: I'm partway thru building the
> left wing of my RV-6. If I choose to install a Tru
> Trak product, is there anything I need to/can install
> in the wing, while I'm working on it?
>
> John
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Question re: Tru Trak |
Just call them! They are more than happy to speak with builders. However,
why put it in the wing? It's a pain to get to, a pain to get in and out if
you need to. I put mine under the pilot's seat... very easy install,
painless to get to and work on. If you'd like I can send you pictures
off-line of the install.
Regards,
David Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Geek One"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Lawson
Subject: RV-List: Question re: Tru Trak
I've tried to contact Tru Trak three times thru their
web site, with no response. Has anyone else had the
same problem?
My question to them: I'm partway thru building the
left wing of my RV-6. If I choose to install a Tru
Trak product, is there anything I need to/can install
in the wing, while I'm working on it?
John
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
| Subject: | RV-6 or 6A wanted |
Fellow Listers:
I have a friend who is looking to purchase a completed RV-6 or 6A. Please
contact me off list if you know of one and I'll put you in touch with this
gentlemen.
Thanks
Doug Weiler
pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roberto Giusti <roby(at)mail.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for governor adapter cover for O-360 |
Listers,
I am converting a Lycoming O-360 from CS to FP.
I need a governor adapter cover from a relatively new engine.
The cover should have a slot in it the shape of a small paper
clip around 3/32 deep.
If anyone has a Lycoming O-360 with a CS prop and has the gov. adapter cover lying
around,
please contact me off list.
Thanks,
Roberto Giusti
roby(at)mail.com
*
*
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing / Horiz. stab incidence |
With wings and fuselage level abeam and fore & aft, using the main longerons as
a ref level and using a spirit level resting on the wing's main spar and resting
on the rear spar using the 3.03" spacer as shown in SK 59 (in my 1995 vintage
manual), I was able to obtain satisfactory edge clearances on the rear spar
stubs for the 5/16 Dia Bolts. The trick was drilling the holes for them in the
rear spar stubs. I used a 1 /4" "bullet" drill with a 16" extension to drill
the first hole and then enlarged them to 5/16" dia, with that drill on a similar
extension. This gives enough clearance for the drill-motor to clear the side
of the fuselage for a perpendicular approach to the spar stubs. The spar stubs
were clamped together using a vice-grip welder's clamp to hold them in place
to provide unobstructed clearance for the drills
The horizontal Stab was set to plans.
For all my construction, I never bought long aviation drills.-I just made my extensions
by boring holes on my lathe for the applicable drill in the end of suitable
brass or steel rod. Then inserted the required drill into the rod with
a couple of drops of "Krazy Glue" (Super Glue). Never had one come loose! Also
the good thing is when that drill becomes dull, just heat the end with a propane
torch and out it comes and you can slide in a new one with another dose of
glue. Works great!
Cheers!!--Henry Hore--RV6-A,- C-GELS
>
> Group:
>
> I have my wings plugged into my 6A and am ready to drill the rear spar
> attach holes, thus setting the incidence.
>
> I am limited to the amount of positive incidence I can get to .5 degrees
> without running into some serious edge distance problems for the 5/16th
> inch bolts.
>
> The question is......If I set my wing incidence at positive .5 degrees,
> what should I do with the Horizontal stabilizer incidence to compensate?
> Should I set it to have .5 degrees negative incidence? So If say you
> could only get .4 degrees of positive wing incidence, should you set the
> horizontal stab to .6 degrees negative incidence? Can I assume that you
> want the difference between the two to always be 1 degree?
>
> Thanks in advance. Sure is cool to see an airplane in the hangar with
> wings on it for a change!
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> setting wing incidence
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tomvelvick(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6a wing incidence angle |
Hi Jeff,
The rv-6a wings are set to a 1/2 degree incidence angle (the front of the wing
points up slightly) and the horizontal stab is set to a level condition. This
is with the airplane longerons set in a level position and the wings level.
So there is a total of 1/2 degree between them, not 1 degree. Check your builders
manual. Vans has a section that tells you have to do it.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
N53KT rv-4
N70953L rv-4
rv-6a wiring and engine work
>
> I have my wings plugged into my 6A and am ready to drill the rear spar
> attach holes, thus setting the incidence.
>
> I am limited to the amount of positive incidence I can get to .5 degrees
> without running into some serious edge distance problems for the 5/16th
> inch bolts.
>
> The question is......If I set my wing incidence at positive .5 degrees,
> what should I do with the Horizontal stabilizer incidence to compensate?
> Should I set it to have .5 degrees negative incidence? So If say you
> could only get .4 degrees of positive wing incidence, should you set the
> horizontal stab to .6 degrees negative incidence? Can I assume that you
> want the difference between the two to always be 1 degree?
>
> Thanks in advance. Sure is cool to see an airplane in the hangar with
> wings on it for a change!
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> setting wing incidence
> Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6a wing incidence angle |
> Hi Jeff,
>
> The rv-6a wings are set to a 1/2 degree incidence angle (the front of the
> wing points up slightly) and the horizontal stab is set to a level
> condition. This is with the airplane longerons set in a level position
> and the wings level. So there is a total of 1/2 degree between them, not
> 1 degree. Check your builders manual. Vans has a section that tells you
> have to do it.
> Regards,
> Tom Velvick
> N53KT rv-4
> N70953L rv-4
> rv-6a wiring and engine work
I seem to recall that the -4's and the -6's were different in this regard.
Tom, you've built both, was the -4 set at 1 degree?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 620 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6a wing incidence angle |
Interesting...my RV6A manual calls for a 1.0-degree angle, not
1/2-degree...I set it for 1-degree and it works fine...I wonder is the
1/2-degree is an error or did something change during RV6A production?
tomvelvick(at)cox.net wrote:
>
>Hi Jeff,
>
>The rv-6a wings are set to a 1/2 degree incidence angle (the front of the wing
points up slightly) and the horizontal stab is set to a level condition. This
is with the airplane longerons set in a level position and the wings level.
So there is a total of 1/2 degree between them, not 1 degree. Check your builders
manual. Vans has a section that tells you have to do it.
>Regards,
>Tom Velvick
>N53KT rv-4
>N70953L rv-4
>rv-6a wiring and engine work
>
>
>
>
>>I have my wings plugged into my 6A and am ready to drill the rear spar
>>attach holes, thus setting the incidence.
>>
>>I am limited to the amount of positive incidence I can get to .5 degrees
>>without running into some serious edge distance problems for the 5/16th
>>inch bolts.
>>
>>The question is......If I set my wing incidence at positive .5 degrees,
>>what should I do with the Horizontal stabilizer incidence to compensate?
>>Should I set it to have .5 degrees negative incidence? So If say you
>>could only get .4 degrees of positive wing incidence, should you set the
>>horizontal stab to .6 degrees negative incidence? Can I assume that you
>>want the difference between the two to always be 1 degree?
>>
>>Thanks in advance. Sure is cool to see an airplane in the hangar with
>>wings on it for a change!
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>Jeff Orear
>>RV6A N782P (reserved)
>>setting wing incidence
>>Peshtigo, WI
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6a wing incidence angle |
Hi Tom:
I believe the -4 wings are set to 1/2 degrees positive. The -6/6A is set to
1 degree positive.
Those of you out there that have some wing twist in your wings...How much
has made a significant difference in your experience? I now find
(yeah...AFTER I drilled the danged 5/16th inch bolt DOH!!!!!) that I have
a left wing that has .2 degrees of positive wing twist (leading edge higher
than trailing edge) than my right wing. This begins just outboard of the
fuel tank. So as a result, I will have a wing that will tend to roll to the
right...at least in theory.
Who knows...perhaps this will prevent the common heavy left wing. (?) I am
wondering if this amount of discrepancy would be negated by squeezing an
aileron if indeed I get a roll to the right. My plan is to complete
construction and fly the thing. Then evaluate any roll tendency I may have
and then see what I need to do about it.
BTW....I do plan to dial in .6 degrees of negative incidence to compensate
for getting only .4 degrees of positive incidence in my wing.
Thanks guys.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
setting Horizontal stab incidence
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: <tomvelvick(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6a wing incidence angle
>
> Hi Jeff,
>
> The rv-6a wings are set to a 1/2 degree incidence angle (the front of the
> wing points up slightly) and the horizontal stab is set to a level
> condition. This is with the airplane longerons set in a level position
> and the wings level. So there is a total of 1/2 degree between them, not
> 1 degree. Check your builders manual. Vans has a section that tells you
> have to do it.
> Regards,
> Tom Velvick
> N53KT rv-4
> N70953L rv-4
> rv-6a wiring and engine work
>
>
>>
>> I have my wings plugged into my 6A and am ready to drill the rear spar
>> attach holes, thus setting the incidence.
>>
>> I am limited to the amount of positive incidence I can get to .5 degrees
>> without running into some serious edge distance problems for the 5/16th
>> inch bolts.
>>
>> The question is......If I set my wing incidence at positive .5 degrees,
>> what should I do with the Horizontal stabilizer incidence to compensate?
>> Should I set it to have .5 degrees negative incidence? So If say you
>> could only get .4 degrees of positive wing incidence, should you set the
>> horizontal stab to .6 degrees negative incidence? Can I assume that you
>> want the difference between the two to always be 1 degree?
>>
>> Thanks in advance. Sure is cool to see an airplane in the hangar with
>> wings on it for a change!
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Jeff Orear
>> RV6A N782P (reserved)
>> setting wing incidence
>> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 or 6A wanted |
>
>There are 20 listed in Trade A Plane.
Ron Lee
>I have a friend who is looking to purchase a completed RV-6 or 6A. Please
>contact me off list if you know of one and I'll put you in touch with this
>gentlemen.
>
>Thanks
>
>Doug Weiler
>pres, MN Wing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
The manual states to fab this part... I can't seem to locate the .063 sheet. Anyone
have the dimensions of the sheet to cut this part from? All I can locate
is an 11" sheet... way to big.
Thanks in advance,
Darrell
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for governor adapter cover for O-360 |
In a message dated 5/29/05 3:05:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time, roby(at)mail.com
writes:
> I need a governor adapter cover from a relatively new engine.
Van's sells them.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 82 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV - Intervention |
> BTW - question to those alternate engine guys out there, is there a small
> auto conversion with turbo charging. If you had to build a RV-12 with a 120
> knot limit, why not take those knots to 16,500 or 17,500 and get some real
> KTAS out of them.
The best bet for something like that would probably be the Rotax 914. You
can build a turbo single rotor rotary but it would cost more than a 914 and
not offer any advantages except lower rebuild cost.
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
The paint on my already built RV 6A ( I bought a flying airplane) needs
some touch up. I want to buy rattle cans and I am having trouble finding a
good match at the auto parts store. I do have a really good sample from
cutting the holes for the NACA ducts during the panel upgrade. Suggestions
please.
Thanks
Matthew M. Jurotich
e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV - Intervention |
Tom Gummo wrote:
>
>Everybody,
>
>
>You know when someone starts to get into a cult or heavy into drugs; an "Intervention"
is called for. I am calling on all you to help me with such an effort.
>
>
>KABONG as he calls himself, Jack Starn to some of us, needs your help.
>
>
>Background Info:
>
>
>Several years ago, I got a tail kit for a RV-4. After getting the jigs built,
I had a very slow start on drilling that first hole in aluminum. My wife claims
that my only tool is a hammer. Anyway, a family was looking into moving into
the house next door and needed to use the phone so I let them in my house
through the garage. Jack spotted the tail kit. His wife looked at me and said
they were going to take the house. I haven't been able to get rid of Jack since.
After much thought, the tail kit was modified and a Harmon Rocket was started.
With Jack helps, the Rocket went from aluminum ore, refined into Al sheets,
formed into aircraft parts and assembled into a flying machine. After
five years, Jack's cancer (he lost his vocal cords but beat the cancer - no he
didn't smoke), and several periods of unemployment (sure slows down the money
needed to build) the Rocket was finished. After several years of flying the
Rocket, I thought I had converted Jack into a go fast!
> ; more power is better type of guy.
>
>
>Current Situation:
>
>
>Anyway, he is looking at building an RV-10 or an RV-12. While, I wouldn't personally
want to build an RV-10, it is at least a real aircraft with reasonable
performance. The RV-12 is another matter. It is an aerocoupe (spelling), or
as someone on the SoCal RV List says, an "RV-0.5".
>
>
>My request, please support me in this Intervention and get Jack or KABONG back
into the building mode of real RVs with RV like performance.
>
>
>BTW - question to those alternate engine guys out there, is there a small auto
conversion with turbo charging. If you had to build a RV-12 with a 120 knot
limit, why not take those knots to 16,500 or 17,500 and get some real KTAS out
of them.
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Tom Gummo
>Apple Valley, CA
>Harmon Rocket-II, 250 hours
>
Dave mentioned the Rotax 914.
For truly a low cost auto conversion, he might look at the smaller
Subaru engines. There's a guy from the Denver area that presented a SNF
engine forum about 8 or 10 years ago on running a Sub direct drive with
a turbo. He was flying an Avid Flyer out of mountain strips. Obviously,
Jack will spend more time with engine development & cooling issues than
building the airframe.
Charlie
(just hosted a weekend of rotary engine forums & love the idea of
alternative engines, as long as you approach them with eyes wide open &
with the needed skills)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Touch up paint |
Call around to various paint stores to see if they can match the color from
your sample AND put the paint in a spray can. Another option might be to
use color matched paint and use one of those disposable air guns that
operate using some small container of propellant.
Ron Lee
>The paint on my already built RV 6A ( I bought a flying airplane) needs
>some touch up. I want to buy rattle cans and I am having trouble finding a
>good match at the auto parts store. I do have a really good sample from
>cutting the holes for the NACA ducts during the panel upgrade. Suggestions
>please.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Touch up paint |
Hi Matt,
Any of the auto paint stores should have a spectrophotometer they can use to
give you a close match, and experienced folks who will help you with this.
Is there any chance of contacting the builder to find out what type of paint
they used and the paint codes?
Good luck,
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Jurotich" <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: Touch up paint
>
> The paint on my already built RV 6A ( I bought a flying airplane) needs
> some touch up. I want to buy rattle cans and I am having trouble finding
a
> good match at the auto parts store. I do have a really good sample from
> cutting the holes for the NACA ducts during the panel upgrade.
Suggestions
> please.
>
> Thanks
>
> Matthew M. Jurotich
>
> e-mail mailto: mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov
> phone : 301-286-5919
> fax : 301-286-7021
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question re: Tru Trak |
David Schaefer wrote:
>
>Just call them! They are more than happy to speak with builders. However,
>why put it in the wing? It's a pain to get to, a pain to get in and out if
>you need to. I put mine under the pilot's seat... very easy install,
>painless to get to and work on. If you'd like I can send you pictures
>off-line of the install.
>
>Regards,
>
>David Schaefer
>RV-6A N142DS "Geek One"
>
>
>
Easy to install in the wing on a 7 maybe not on the 6. They actually
talked me out of buying one while building and told me to wait until I
was flying because it is suppose to be so easy to install. From others
web sites I see that that is ture. I di run the wires so they would be
there when I am ready to add it.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Darrel, What RV are you building? I have a good supply of .063 and many
small pieces from my RV6-A project. I could mail you a piece if you can't
locate the one in your kit.
Van's sometimes sent small sheets of aluminum that you cut and
fabricated many small parts out of and that may be the piece you located.
Tom
in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darrell Reiley" <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: F-601Z
>
> The manual states to fab this part... I can't seem to locate the .063
> sheet. Anyone have the dimensions of the sheet to cut this part from? All
> I can locate is an 11" sheet... way to big.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Darrell
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Touch up paint |
If you haven't already done so, try looking in the aircraft log or builder's
log to see if he wrote the brand of paint. Some brands have standard colors
that will be easy to match.
Also, your results will be much better if you can match type of paint
(urathane, epoxy, water base, enamel).
Dave Leonard
On 5/30/05, Ron Lee wrote:
>
>
> Call around to various paint stores to see if they can match the color
> from
> your sample AND put the paint in a spray can. Another option might be to
> use color matched paint and use one of those disposable air guns that
> operate using some small container of propellant.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
> >The paint on my already built RV 6A ( I bought a flying airplane) needs
> >some touch up. I want to buy rattle cans and I am having trouble finding
> a
> >good match at the auto parts store. I do have a really good sample from
> >cutting the holes for the NACA ducts during the panel upgrade.
> Suggestions
> >please.
>
>
--
Wm. David Leonard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Question re: Tru Trak |
On my RV6, I wanted to put the TruTrak aileron servo in the wing also. When
I received my TruTrak autopilot, it came with a bracket, push rod, rod end
bearings etc. and instructions for mounting the aileron servo under the seat
floor and it connecting to the control stick mixer. The TruTrak web site
showed a bracket for mounting the aileron servo inside the RV6 wing in the
area where the aileron bell crank inspection panel is located. I contacted
TruTrak about the possibility of getting the bracket for mounting the servo
in the wing but was told that the under the floor location was the preferred
location and the bracket for mounting inside the wing was no longer
available. Undeterred, I fabricated a bracket using the picture on the
TruTrak web site as an example for mounting the servo inside the wing but
after much trial fitting etc., it became obvious that installation and
removal once the wing skins were on would be a bear if not impossible in
this location.
Sam Buchanan's "The RV Journal" web site has some good recommendations for
mounting the aileron servo in the wing tip.
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/navaid.html
Dan Checkoway's website has some pictures that show how Laird Owens mounted
a TruTrak servo on the wing tip of his RV6.
http://www.rvproject.com/trutrak.html
I copied Laird's method and installed the aileron servo in the right wing
tip. In my opinion this is a good location which gives good access to the
servo for removal and replacement if that should ever be necessary. It also
eliminates any possibility of the roll servo introducing pitch inputs into
the control column (probably a minor consideration). For me the only
downside of the wing tip location is that for a TruTrak servo you have to
run seven wires through the wing to the aileron servo. I ran a couple of
spares wires through the wing. Finding the right spot to connect the push
tube to the aileron bell crank took some experimentation in order to keep
the servo arm from going over center and jamming the primary controls
throughout the full range of deflection of the aileron. Your mileage may
vary.
JD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Lawson
Subject: RV-List: Question re: Tru Trak
I've tried to contact Tru Trak three times thru their
web site, with no response. Has anyone else had the
same problem?
My question to them: I'm partway thru building the
left wing of my RV-6. If I choose to install a Tru
Trak product, is there anything I need to/can install
in the wing, while I'm working on it?
John
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | # clecos for quickbuild? |
Tony Partain is delivering my 9A QB week after next and I'm getting
ready to make the big tool order. Going with the Avery kit + extras.
I was thinking that maybe the # of clecos in the kit is excessive for a
QB. Biggest thing I have to rivet is one wing skin or the horiz stab.
Anyone know approximately how many clecos is sufficient for a QB?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Touch up paint |
The unit I mentioned earlier is Preval from NAPA. Might be available
elsewhere.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | VOR Antenna limitations |
When I built my RV9A I built it for IFR certification. (I don't necessarily
think long "hard" IFR in a single engine is a good idea, but it is nice to
get through those Seattle marine layers). That has been argued elsewhere....
Anyway... I installed the Archer nav antennas in the wing tips. THey work
well UNLESS the VOR is on the wrong side of the plane and the fuselage blocks
the signal. This makes for an unsafe (and illegal) approach if you lose your
signal. I am trying to avoid the ugly "towel bar" VOR antennas. What are
others doing to compensate for this?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | VOR Antenna limitations |
Cats whiskers work well, unless you include them in the ugly category.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: VOR Antenna limitations
When I built my RV9A I built it for IFR certification. (I don't necessarily
think long "hard" IFR in a single engine is a good idea, but it is nice to
get through those Seattle marine layers). That has been argued
elsewhere....
Anyway... I installed the Archer nav antennas in the wing tips. THey work
well UNLESS the VOR is on the wrong side of the plane and the fuselage
blocks
the signal. This makes for an unsafe (and illegal) approach if you lose
your
signal. I am trying to avoid the ugly "towel bar" VOR antennas. What are
others doing to compensate for this?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR Antenna limitations |
Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>When I built my RV9A I built it for IFR certification. (I don't necessarily
>think long "hard" IFR in a single engine is a good idea, but it is nice to
>get through those Seattle marine layers). That has been argued elsewhere....
>
>Anyway... I installed the Archer nav antennas in the wing tips. THey work
>well UNLESS the VOR is on the wrong side of the plane and the fuselage blocks
>the signal. This makes for an unsafe (and illegal) approach if you lose your
>signal. I am trying to avoid the ugly "towel bar" VOR antennas. What are
>others doing to compensate for this?
>
>Kim Nicholas
>RV9A
>Seattle
>
I've got a drawing somewhere of a half-wave dipole made of copper foil
glued around the lower back of the canopy. The drawing was for a Mustang
II, very similar in size/shape to the RV sidebyside models. I've never
seen it done, but I'll bet you could make it work if you did the same
trick in the cowl. (I'm assuming you intend to use it for approaches
where the signal would be fairly strong.)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
Building a 7A, THANKS so much for your kind offer... I cut the 11" piece already.
Probably a mistake but in this arena you make many...
Darrell
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
Darrel, What RV are you building? I have a good supply of .063 and many
small pieces from my RV6-A project. I could mail you a piece if you can't
locate the one in your kit.
Van's sometimes sent small sheets of aluminum that you cut and
fabricated many small parts out of and that may be the piece you located.
Tom
in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darrell Reiley"
Subject: RV-List: F-601Z
>
> The manual states to fab this part... I can't seem to locate the .063
> sheet. Anyone have the dimensions of the sheet to cut this part from? All
> I can locate is an 11" sheet... way to big.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Darrell
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR Antenna limitations |
You mentioned you installed the nav antennas in the wing tips (plural). If
this is true, why would you have this issue? If not, could you install in
both wing tips and tie the nav antennas together?
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Date: 05/30/05 11:17:39
Subject: RV-List: VOR Antenna limitations
When I built my RV9A I built it for IFR certification. (I don't necessarily
think long "hard" IFR in a single engine is a good idea, but it is nice to
get through those Seattle marine layers). That has been argued elsewhere..
Anyway... I installed the Archer nav antennas in the wing tips. THey work
well UNLESS the VOR is on the wrong side of the plane and the fuselage
blocks
the signal. This makes for an unsafe (and illegal) approach if you lose
your
signal. I am trying to avoid the ugly "towel bar" VOR antennas. What are
others doing to compensate for this?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | # clecos for quickbuild? |
| From: | "Robinette, Jim" <jim(at)rvator.net> |
Paul,
Doing a QB 7A. Just finishing the emp and have the wings and fuse in
the garage. Ordered the Avery kit and took their advice and bought what
they told me I would need for a QB 7. I think the driving factor in
clecos might be the number you need for the emp, vice wings and fuse. I
found one time when I used all my silver clecos on the emp, so I don't
think they are selling you excessive clecos. That being said, I can't
speak for the QB fuse, only the emp.
Take care,
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht
Subject: RV-List: # clecos for quickbuild?
Tony Partain is delivering my 9A QB week after next and I'm getting
ready to make the big tool order. Going with the Avery kit + extras.
I was thinking that maybe the # of clecos in the kit is excessive for a
QB. Biggest thing I have to rivet is one wing skin or the horiz stab.
Anyone know approximately how many clecos is sufficient for a QB?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR Antenna limitations |
I installed a copper tape dipole on the inside leading edge of the lower
cowl. It is out of sight, was easy and cheap to install, and works very well
if you are headed toward or abeam the VOR.
Dave Leonard
On 5/30/05, Charlie England wrote:
>
>
> Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> >When I built my RV9A I built it for IFR certification. (I don't
> necessarily
> >think long "hard" IFR in a single engine is a good idea, but it is nice
> to
> >get through those Seattle marine layers). That has been argued
> elsewhere....
> >
> >Anyway... I installed the Archer nav antennas in the wing tips. THey work
> >well UNLESS the VOR is on the wrong side of the plane and the fuselage
> blocks
> >the signal. This makes for an unsafe (and illegal) approach if you lose
> your
> >signal. I am trying to avoid the ugly "towel bar" VOR antennas. What are
> >others doing to compensate for this?
> >
> >Kim Nicholas
> >RV9A
> >Seattle
> >
>
> I've got a drawing somewhere of a half-wave dipole made of copper foil
> glued around the lower back of the canopy. The drawing was for a Mustang
> II, very similar in size/shape to the RV sidebyside models. I've never
> seen it done, but I'll bet you could make it work if you did the same
> trick in the cowl. (I'm assuming you intend to use it for approaches
> where the signal would be fairly strong.)
>
> Charlie
>
>
--
Wm. David Leonard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for governor adapter cover for O-360 |
In a message dated 5/29/2005 3:05:29 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
roby(at)mail.com writes:
I am converting a Lycoming O-360 from CS to FP.
==========================================
Uhhhhhh....Why?
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 752hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: leaking lycoming intake tube |
In a message dated 5/28/2005 6:51:48 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rgarrett(at)objectsciences.com writes:
Checked with my local A&P, and he said the
gasket where the tube goes into the cylinder is probably leaking. That
certainly appears to be the case.
A few questions:
Where's a good source for the gasket (an actual part number would be good
too)
=========================================
IMO, the Lycoming gaskets are way too thin to properly seal. You can either
double them up or make your own out of thicker material from the auto parts
store.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 752hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:VOR Antenna limitations |
I put a VOR dipole antenna inside the canopy of our RV-4 using 1/4" copper
tape,placed about 1 1/2" above the metal canopy skirt. I soldered the
center conductor to one leg & the shield to the other. I placed this on a patch
of duct tape & potted it in epoxy. Worked fine for the 7 years I flew it.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR Antenna limitations |
Tim,
I have seen it written that the practice of tying together the NAV
antennas to get them to provide coverage from both sides of the
plane is something to specifically avoid. It produces unwanted
side effects. I'm currently leaning towards the archer antennas
too, and always worried that Kim's problem would be the downfall.
I hadn't heard anything but good things until now...... I guess
now I have reason to be leery and perhaps look again at the cat
whiskers.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> You mentioned you installed the nav antennas in the wing tips (plural). If
> this is true, why would you have this issue? If not, could you install in
> both wing tips and tie the nav antennas together?
>
> Tim
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
> Date: 05/30/05 11:17:39
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: VOR Antenna limitations
>
>
> When I built my RV9A I built it for IFR certification. (I don't necessarily
> think long "hard" IFR in a single engine is a good idea, but it is nice to
> get through those Seattle marine layers). That has been argued elsewhere..
>
>
> Anyway... I installed the Archer nav antennas in the wing tips. THey work
> well UNLESS the VOR is on the wrong side of the plane and the fuselage
> blocks
> the signal. This makes for an unsafe (and illegal) approach if you lose
> your
> signal. I am trying to avoid the ugly "towel bar" VOR antennas. What are
> others doing to compensate for this?
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A
> Seattle
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR Antenna limitations |
Have you flown it and noticed this problem, or are you just assuming
this to be the case? I'm asking because I have this antenna in my left
wing and have never noticed a problem, and IIRC Bob Archer said that the
airplane was actually part of the antenna and that this would NOT be a
problem. I've also never heard a complaint from anyone who's flown one
Dave Bristol RV6, SO Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>When I built my RV9A I built it for IFR certification. (I don't necessarily
>think long "hard" IFR in a single engine is a good idea, but it is nice to
>get through those Seattle marine layers). That has been argued elsewhere....
>
>Anyway... I installed the Archer nav antennas in the wing tips. THey work
>well UNLESS the VOR is on the wrong side of the plane and the fuselage blocks
>the signal. This makes for an unsafe (and illegal) approach if you lose your
>signal. I am trying to avoid the ugly "towel bar" VOR antennas. What are
>others doing to compensate for this?
>
>Kim Nicholas
>RV9A
>Seattle
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | What's a "VOR" ??? |
Hey I ain't seen any good flamin' for awhile, so I'll see what I can stir up....
VOR's are extinct! Yep they went the way of covered wagons, revolvers, and startin'
fires with flint. EVERYONE is using GPS, pilotage and dead-reckoning.
Heck a'doodle lining up 'dem cross hairs is for Sissies, student pilots, and
folks who can't afford 100 bucks for a hand-held GPS that'll get you darn near
anywheres, anytime, anyhow ('cept watch out for those F-18's when ya' blow through
one of 'dem darn alphabet-soup areas).
There, that ought to do it. Nomex britches on...
Chuck
Oldsfolks(at)aol.com wrote:
I put a VOR dipole antenna inside the canopy of our RV-4 using 1/4" copper
tape,placed about 1 1/2" above the metal canopy skirt. I soldered the
center conductor to one leg & the shield to the other. I placed this on a patch
of duct tape & potted it in epoxy. Worked fine for the 7 years I flew it.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR Antenna limitations |
I had heard that too, but thought it was tying two Comms together. Nav is
pretty pasive isn't it? Don't really know myself. I installed the whiskers
in the top of the vertical and am happy with that. If I don't poke my eye
out that is. Seriously, good reception is more important to me than the
knot or two I *might* loose.
Tim
DNA
-------Original Message-------
From: Tim Olson
Date: 05/30/05 19:54:56
Subject: Re: RV-List: VOR Antenna limitations
Tim,
I have seen it written that the practice of tying together the NAV
antennas to get them to provide coverage from both sides of the
plane is something to specifically avoid. It produces unwanted
side effects. I'm currently leaning towards the archer antennas
too, and always worried that Kim's problem would be the downfall.
I hadn't heard anything but good things until now...... I guess
now I have reason to be leery and perhaps look again at the cat
whiskers.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> You mentioned you installed the nav antennas in the wing tips (plural).
If
> this is true, why would you have this issue? If not, could you install in
> both wing tips and tie the nav antennas together?
>
> Tim
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
> Date: 05/30/05 11:17:39
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: VOR Antenna limitations
>
>
> When I built my RV9A I built it for IFR certification. (I don't
necessarily
> think long "hard" IFR in a single engine is a good idea, but it is nice
to
> get through those Seattle marine layers). That has been argued elsewhere.
>
>
> Anyway... I installed the Archer nav antennas in the wing tips. THey work
> well UNLESS the VOR is on the wrong side of the plane and the fuselage
> blocks
> the signal. This makes for an unsafe (and illegal) approach if you lose
> your
> signal. I am trying to avoid the ugly "towel bar" VOR antennas. What
are
> others doing to compensate for this?
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A
> Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR Antenna limitations |
I feel the same way...reception before looks and drag. But, I had been
hoping to use an archer in each wingtip for each NAV radio. I *think*
the reference I saw was relating to NAV's. I also know that if you use
a signal splitter (not the proper name) for the nav signal to 2 radios,
you end up with less signal available for each radio. While I've had
no problems in my current plane with this, I thought that the
one-antenna-per wingtip thing was just the ticket. Now I'm thinking
maybe a cat whiskers with a splitter might be the way it has to be.
Still have to think about that one. I'll run the wires to the wing
either way just in case.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> I had heard that too, but thought it was tying two Comms together. Nav is
> pretty pasive isn't it? Don't really know myself. I installed the whiskers
> in the top of the vertical and am happy with that. If I don't poke my eye
> out that is. Seriously, good reception is more important to me than the
> knot or two I *might* loose.
>
> Tim
> DNA
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Tim Olson
> Date: 05/30/05 19:54:56
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: VOR Antenna limitations
>
>
> Tim,
>
> I have seen it written that the practice of tying together the NAV
> antennas to get them to provide coverage from both sides of the
> plane is something to specifically avoid. It produces unwanted
> side effects. I'm currently leaning towards the archer antennas
> too, and always worried that Kim's problem would be the downfall.
> I hadn't heard anything but good things until now...... I guess
> now I have reason to be leery and perhaps look again at the cat
> whiskers.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
>
> Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>>
>>You mentioned you installed the nav antennas in the wing tips (plural).
>
> If
>
>>this is true, why would you have this issue? If not, could you install in
>>both wing tips and tie the nav antennas together?
>>
>>Tim
>>
>>-------Original Message-------
>>
>>From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
>>Date: 05/30/05 11:17:39
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: VOR Antenna limitations
>>
>>
>>When I built my RV9A I built it for IFR certification. (I don't
>
> necessarily
>
>>think long "hard" IFR in a single engine is a good idea, but it is nice
>
> to
>
>>get through those Seattle marine layers). That has been argued elsewhere.
>
>
>>
>>Anyway... I installed the Archer nav antennas in the wing tips. THey work
>>well UNLESS the VOR is on the wrong side of the plane and the fuselage
>>blocks
>>the signal. This makes for an unsafe (and illegal) approach if you lose
>>your
>>signal. I am trying to avoid the ugly "towel bar" VOR antennas. What
>
> are
>
>>others doing to compensate for this?
>>
>>Kim Nicholas
>>RV9A
>>Seattle
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon D-10A Ticking |
I think I have figured out what is going on with my Dynon D-10A. It appears
that if you have the keep alive circuit wired up to the Dynon and you let
the main bus voltage drop to 10.5 volts or so due to not maintaining the
proper charge on the main battery, the keep alive circuit cannot function
properly due to the low voltage on it's input. At this low voltage it will
start making an audible ticking noise as it tries to keep the internal
battery charged. However it cannot properly charge the battery in this
condition. The Dynon internal battery indicates slightly greater than 16
volts when charged and the charging circuit is normally operating at ~ 13
volts on it's input. Through some magic the Dynon internal charging circuit
output has to be greater than 16 volts to keep the battery charged. Now that
I have a full charge on the PC-680 everything is working fine. No more
ticking.
Be aware if you hear your Dynon ticking. Your ships bus voltage is probably
low. Also the Dynon will not power up if it's voltage drops below some
voltage threshold. I do not know this exact voltage.
Jerry Isler
RV-4 N455J
Donalsonville, GA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon D-10A Ticking
> So now for the real question. I have noticed lately that the Dyon D-10A
> was making a ticking noise when everything on the plane was turned off.
The
> tick is about every second. I have the keep alive circuit wired up to an
> always hot bus so that the internal battery in the Dynon will stay charged
> up. I think the noise is from this circuit because I disconnected the
> connector from the back of the Dynon and the noise stopped and resumed
when
> it was reconnected. Is this ticking noise normal? Could this be the cause
of
> my dead battery? Will a dead battery on the plane drain the internal
battery
> on the Dynon? Will a PC-680 go completely dead if you let the voltage get
> down to about 10.5 volts (I have not charged the battery in a while)?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | What's a "VOR" ??? |
> What happens when terrorists use GPS jamming devices? Talk about all hell
> breaking loose... That wouldn't be that difficult to do.
Not much more difficult than jamming VOR, I'll bet.
Y'all should come to Canada, where we still use ADF.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | VOR Antenna limitations |
I disagree. I have the Archer Antenna in my RV-6 and it works great. You
must have installed the antenna incorrectly if you are having a problem.
Any RV that I have flown with that have the V antenna does not pick up
signals as well as mine antenna does.
I flew to NoCAL and back to SoCAL this weekend. My SOP is to go GPS direct
but have the VOR tuned to a station in front of the airplane. I was picking
up singals of VORs on both sides of the airplane this weekend.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,680 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: VOR Antenna limitations
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 14:10:46 EDT
When I built my RV9A I built it for IFR certification. (I don't necessarily
think long "hard" IFR in a single engine is a good idea, but it is nice to
get through those Seattle marine layers). That has been argued
elsewhere....
Anyway... I installed the Archer nav antennas in the wing tips. THey work
well UNLESS the VOR is on the wrong side of the plane and the fuselage
blocks
the signal. This makes for an unsafe (and illegal) approach if you lose
May 17, 2005 - May 31, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-qx