RV-Archive.digest.vol-rd
August 03, 2005 - August 13, 2005
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephanie Marshall
I remember seeing a modification for the C-Frame that replaces the striker
with a handle that is worked by either hydraulics or the Air Compressor. My
memory is REALLY vague on this, does anyone know where I can find out more
information on this?-
-Thanks,
Stephanie
www.rv-8a.4t.com
This electronic mail message is intended exclusively for the individual or
entity to which it is addressed. This message, together with any attachment,
may contain confidential and privileged information. Any unauthorized
review, use, print, retain, copy, disclosure or distribution is strictly
prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please immediately
advise the sender and delete all copies of this message. Thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | And another crash at Oshkosh? Pilots Report |
-----Original Message-----
>>I'd suggest that another option is to land on the upwind side of the
runway.
Great suggestion. Thanks.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | And another crash at Oshkosh? Pilots Report |
-----Original Message-----
>The big question for Ross: is there anything WE can do to help you get
bck in the air. Hey, we can raise
>barns and build houses...perhaps we can pitch in and help you with the
rebuild.
Thanks, Bob. I have received some off-list offers already that are very
much appreciated. The large new parts I need are 1) the entire
empennage 2) nose gear 3) two wing tips 4) roll bar 5) canopy frame 6)
canopy 7) left aileron 8) prop. All the rest are small parts,
fiberglass (I hate it) and labor.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
Dave Saylor wrote:
>Are you thinking of this? The squeezer is foot controlled and actuates very
>slowly.
>
>http://www.aircraftersllc.com/classifieds/yoke.htm
>
>
That says it only comes with the yoke. What size squeezer does it need
and how much do they cost. It looks like a lot bigger than the hand
pneumatic squeezers that are common.
--
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
It looks like the one in the picture with the guy using it is just the
tandem version of the cp214. they use the same yokes, it just uses two
cylinders so it develops twice the force...
James
Chris W wrote:
>
>Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>
>
>>Are you thinking of this? The squeezer is foot controlled and actuates very
>>slowly.
>>
>>http://www.aircraftersllc.com/classifieds/yoke.htm
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>That says it only comes with the yoke. What size squeezer does it need
>and how much do they cost. It looks like a lot bigger than the hand
>pneumatic squeezers that are common.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Attitude, was another crash |
-----Original Message-----
>AND...Ross...don't you feel bad about this. You're not the first, nor
will you be the last. Hopefully everyone >learns from this ordeal you
had to suffer through and I also appreciate that you were able to
objectively
>share this with everyone.
Stein,
It is hard not to feel bad but I am trying to put a limit on my self
pity. I keep going over what I could have done differently, what went
wrong and what can I do to decrease the chances of this happening again.
This is on a personal level as well as for my fellow pilot/builders who
are not experienced in formation flying and are very experienced in
following controllers directions. Those experienced in formation flying
(I would suspect as I am not one) would be very familiar with the wake
turbulence issues associated with landing close to other small aircraft.
Most of us will only experience this at air shows like Oshkosh. I will
never land that close at an uncontrolled airport and normal operations
at controlled airports won't allow it. I would really like to see this
issue highlighted in the NOTAMS and other pre-show materials. It
couldn't hurt to remind all us weekend flyers that we may experience
this wake turbulence. One of my mistakes was not having this issue in
the front of my mind as I was landing. I was trying to keep aware of
this Cherokee hanging off to my right and then landing so I wouldn't run
into the four planes sitting on the runway ahead of me. The
"omnificent" controller kept telling me to stick it on the numbers. I
was right on track to accomplish these goals when I got bit.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | And another crash at Oshkosh? Pilots Report |
Ross,
I have the empenage fiberglass parts, elevator horns primed and misc ribs and other
parts for the RV 6 that I will give you just email me an address to send
the parts to.
Darrell Reiley
Ross Mickey wrote:
-----Original Message-----
>The big question for Ross: is there anything WE can do to help you get
bck in the air. Hey, we can raise
>barns and build houses...perhaps we can pitch in and help you with the
rebuild.
Thanks, Bob. I have received some off-list offers already that are very
much appreciated. The large new parts I need are 1) the entire
empennage 2) nose gear 3) two wing tips 4) roll bar 5) canopy frame 6)
canopy 7) left aileron 8) prop. All the rest are small parts,
fiberglass (I hate it) and labor.
Ross
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brad Oliver <brad(at)rv7factory.com> |
That is pretty cool. It caught my eye a few months ago when I was at
Dave's place of business. While I am not in the market for one of
these, it is the most attractively priced one I have seen (outside of
homemade).
Outside of cost, there is something else you might want to consider...
shop space. At 80 lbs. (w/o squeezer I assume) you probably do not
want to be moving it around a lot, so you might want to find somewhere
more permanent to mount it. Just food for thought.
Regards,
Brad Oliver
RV-7 Livermore, CA
www.rv7factory.com
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: RE: RV-List: C-Frame Mod
> From: "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall(at)enid.org>
> Date: Wed, August 03, 2005 7:50 am
> To:
>
>
> WOW! That wasn't it but that might end up being IT!
>
> :-)
>
> Stephanie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: C-Frame Mod
>
>
>
> Stephanie,
>
> Are you thinking of this? The squeezer is foot controlled and actuates very
> slowly.
>
> http://www.aircraftersllc.com/classifieds/yoke.htm
>
> Please call if you'd like one.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 831-722-9141
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephanie Marshall
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: C-Frame Mod
>
>
> I remember seeing a modification for the C-Frame that replaces the striker
> with a handle that is worked by either hydraulics or the Air Compressor. My
> memory is REALLY vague on this, does anyone know where I can find out more
> information on this?-
>
> -Thanks,
> Stephanie
> www.rv-8a.4t.com
>
>
> This electronic mail message is intended exclusively for the individual or
> entity to which it is addressed. This message, together with any attachment,
> may contain confidential and privileged information. Any unauthorized
> review, use, print, retain, copy, disclosure or distribution is strictly
> prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please immediately
> advise the sender and delete all copies of this message. Thank you
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Attitude, was another crash |
Hey Ross, After seing your list I have a pair of 6 wingtips you can have as well,
if you haven't got some already.
Mark Phipps
Ross Mickey wrote:
-----Original Message-----
>AND...Ross...don't you feel bad about this. You're not the first, nor
will you be the last. Hopefully everyone >learns from this ordeal you
had to suffer through and I also appreciate that you were able to
objectively
>share this with everyone.
Stein,
It is hard not to feel bad but I am trying to put a limit on my self
pity. I keep going over what I could have done differently, what went
wrong and what can I do to decrease the chances of this happening again.
This is on a personal level as well as for my fellow pilot/builders who
are not experienced in formation flying and are very experienced in
following controllers directions. Those experienced in formation flying
(I would suspect as I am not one) would be very familiar with the wake
turbulence issues associated with landing close to other small aircraft.
Most of us will only experience this at air shows like Oshkosh. I will
never land that close at an uncontrolled airport and normal operations
at controlled airports won't allow it. I would really like to see this
issue highlighted in the NOTAMS and other pre-show materials. It
couldn't hurt to remind all us weekend flyers that we may experience
this wake turbulence. One of my mistakes was not having this issue in
the front of my mind as I was landing. I was trying to keep aware of
this Cherokee hanging off to my right and then landing so I wouldn't run
into the four planes sitting on the runway ahead of me. The
"omnificent" controller kept telling me to stick it on the numbers. I
was right on track to accomplish these goals when I got bit.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
An alternative with nearly the reach is a CP-351. I have one with
9 inch alligator jaws. I have seen them with even larger jaws.
http://www.killacycle.com/mongo1.JPG
I bought this one on Ebay for $100. They typically go for $200 -
$350.
I used a go-kart throttle pedal and a bicycle brake cable to make
the remote foot pedal:
http://www.killacycle.com/mongo2.JPG
Normally, I attach this squeezer to the bench in the slot shown in
the first picture. However, I made a pulley and rope counterweight system
to make it easy to use on the wing ribs.
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Plasma II for sale |
7.50 BARRACUDA_HEADER_FP56 RBL: Blacklist bl.spamcop
[Blocked - see <http://www.spamcop.net/bl.shtml?64.4.56.200>]
I have a LSE Plasma II complete ignition system with the Hall Effects sensor
for sale. It was taken off of a friend's RV-8 as he was upgrading his
system. It is in excellent condition. It also has a bonus of a Slick
magnteo top with spark plug leads in like new condition. It sold for around
$900 new. I am asking $600 OBO and will throw in shipping anywhere in the
US.
Mike Robertson
(509) 998-1793
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Cantrell" <kcflyrv(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV flight to Banff suggestions |
Hello Listers,
My wife and I are toying with the idea of flying our RV-6 from No-Cal to
Banff for a short vacation later this month. I'd like to solicit some
helpful advice regarding navigation routes and customs requirements. Many of
you have helped us plan trips in the past and I hope to hear from you once
again.
Any and all suggestions are very much appreciated.
Ken Cantrell
RV-6, 410 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Wooden stick grips |
Ok, I cut the pilot stick off and I sanded the inside of my wooden grip
to were it will slide on snugly.
Do I need to put some kind of glue on the inside of the grip when I
slide it on?
--
------
Surfing the web from my home in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot setup |
Rick, As I mentioned some time ago, my unit does the same
once per second left/right oscillation as noted in the stick.
I talked to Trio about it and they may have an adjustment within
the servo itself but until I hook up my last wire (RS-232), I am
not calling about that adjustment.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Krueger <pndkrueg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden stick grips |
> Do I need to put some kind of glue on the inside of the grip when I
> slide it on?
>
> I have one grip really snug - no glue .
The other one has a very small set screw - I would not glue.
Dan Krueger
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden stick grips |
My grip loosened up after a while...particularly when the colder weather
came around. It was loose to the point where I considered it a flight
safety issue. A loose stick grip on takeoff or landing, well, you can use
your imagination.
I ended up epoxying it to the control stick.
Just my 2 cents.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (578 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
Subject: RV-List: Wooden stick grips
>
> Ok, I cut the pilot stick off and I sanded the inside of my wooden grip
> to were it will slide on snugly.
> Do I need to put some kind of glue on the inside of the grip when I
> slide it on?
>
> --
> ------
> Surfing the web from my home in Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden stick grips |
I'd use a set screw instead of glue, in case you ever have to remove
it. I used a #8 flush head on the forward bottom and tapped it into the
stick.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Snow" <daniel.snow(at)earthlink.net> |
I was ready to place my order for a 9A until I talked with a guy at the
KitLog Pro booth. He strongly encouraged me to reconsider the 7A, saying
that it didn't fly that much differently than the 9A, plus you have the
expanded option of aerobatics. For those of you that have flown both and
decided on a 9A, can you tell me why you chose the 9A? Was there really
that much difference between the two?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Doug Rozendaal is famous :-) |
Doug, nice write up in AVflash
INSIDE OSH AIRVENTURE -- WHO FLIES THOSE WARBIRDS?
Doug Rozendaal arrived at Oshkosh flying a DC-3 and left in an F6F
Hellcat. He doesn't own either of them, nor does he own any of the
Corsairs, B-25s or Mustangs he transports to air shows for owners.
With a small nod and smile he offered, "I've been very lucky in my
flying career." Rozendaal's education with warbirds began with flying
freight in DC-3s and Beech 18s. These airplanes were not the well-kept
examples seen around Oshkosh. But they provided a good, if hazardous,
classroom. One Beech 18 had Rozendaal in IMC handling an emergency
with his right hand and holding a cup of urine in his left.
http://www.avweb.com/eletter/archives/avflash/446-full.html#190298
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plasma II for sale |
Mike, I'm interested in the LSE Plasma II. I have van's strobe lighting system
2, option A which they sell for $851 (pg 61 in Van's Cat.). It's new in the box,
never been used. Will trade even if you're interested.
Walt Shipley
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Plasma II for sale
I have a LSE Plasma II complete ignition system with the Hall Effects sensor
for sale. It was taken off of a friend's RV-8 as he was upgrading his
system. It is in excellent condition. It also has a bonus of a Slick
magnteo top with spark plug leads in like new condition. It sold for around
$900 new. I am asking $600 OBO and will throw in shipping anywhere in the
US.
Mike Robertson
(509) 998-1793
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
The giant yoke accepts any standard "C" type hand squeezer. The one shown
is a large tandem squeezer, but the one I'm using now is a smaller version,
$269 overhauled from The Yard. I had to swap the set holder for a longer
one ($19). The foot switch is from Avery, about $140. All up I've got
about $950 in it.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
831-722-9141
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris W
Subject: Re: RV-List: C-Frame Mod
<1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net>
Dave Saylor wrote:
>Are you thinking of this? The squeezer is foot controlled and actuates
very
>slowly.
>
>http://www.aircraftersllc.com/classifieds/yoke.htm
>
>
That says it only comes with the yoke. What size squeezer does it need
and how much do they cost. It looks like a lot bigger than the hand
pneumatic squeezers that are common.
--
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden stick grips |
I agree with Jeff. Start thinking about how to maintain your plane going
forward.
Indiana (Evansville) Larry, RV7 Tip Up 52 hours and still got that RV Grin
; - ))
>
> I'd use a set screw instead of glue, in case you ever have to remove
> it. I used a #8 flush head on the forward bottom and tapped it into the
> stick.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6
> Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery reading minus? |
At 07:47 AM 8/4/2005, you wrote:
>
>
> Hi:
>
> I have being re-arranging, the wiring on the panel, and all of the sudden
>when testing battery, it shows a negative value...like (- 12.40)
Needless to say, something is terribly wrong.
1) Start by measuring the voltage right at the battery terminals.
2) Double check to be sure that you haven't put the battery in backwards.
3) Use the same voltmeter to check the voltage on a battery out of your
flashlight, just to be sure that the voltmeter is working correctly.
It is very possible to charge a lead-acid battery in reverse by
hooking the charger up backwards. This is a great way to toast the charger
and all the electronics in the airplane. The battery is a goner as well. It
won't have anything close to its rated capacity ever again.
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden stick grips |
Ok, I cut the pilot stick off and I sanded the inside of my wooden grip
> to were it will slide on snugly.
> Do I need to put some kind of glue on the inside of the grip when I
> slide it on?
>
> --
I used a dab of RTV. Holds fine for normal stick forces, not affected by
temperature, and should be easy to pull off should you ever need to.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vp4skydoc/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
I tried both and they fly much the same as does all of vans planes. Most
builders of the 7 seem to go for the 360 engine and C/S props so the initial
cost vs the 9 would be higher. The 9 will be a little slower but fuel burn
will be lower so cost per hour is less. There may be a larger resale market
for the 7 because of its aerobatic capability.
Albert Gardner RV-9A
N872RV 540 hrs, 21 states so far, twice to Oshkosh
Yuma, AZ
I was ready to place my order for a 9A until I talked with a guy at the
KitLog Pro booth. He strongly encouraged me to reconsider the 7A, saying
that it didn't fly that much differently than the 9A, plus you have the
expanded option of aerobatics. For those of you that have flown both and
decided on a 9A, can you tell me why you chose the 9A? Was there really
that much difference between the two?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
Fiberglass gurus,
I'm getting ready to do intersection fairings on my plane as well as a
buddy's and wanted to get some last minute advice on the best clay to use
for forming. From what I've gathered, and used before, there seem to be
three options...
#1 Dark brown stuff that I purchased from a craft store and used on my RV-8
(http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Fairings.htm), but it was kind of hard and
difficult to work with. I suspect there is better stuff out there.
#2 Lighter tan stuff I found in the craft store recently that is much more
pliable, I think it's called "plasticene" or something similar. Quite a bit
more expensive but looks like it would be much more workable. Seems to be
oil based.
#3 Play-Doh. One of our local builders used it for his intersection fairings
and loves it. Of course it's cheap and readily available. Because Play-Doh
water-based http://www.hasbro.com/playdoh/pl/page.faq/dn/default.cfm would
it therefore be more of a problem to get released?
In addition to upper & lower intersection fairings on two planes I also need
to make an empennage intersection fairing from scratch for my RV-3. As you
can appreciate I'd like to get the best materials and techniques locked in
before entering fiberglass hell once again.
Thanks!
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
> Fiberglass gurus,
>
> I'm getting ready to do intersection fairings on my plane as well as a
> buddy's and wanted to get some last minute advice on the best clay to use
> for forming. From what I've gathered, and used before, there seem to be
> three options...
>
> #1 Dark brown stuff that I purchased from a craft store and used on my
> RV-8
> (http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Fairings.htm), but it was kind of hard and
> difficult to work with. I suspect there is better stuff out there.
>
> #2 Lighter tan stuff I found in the craft store recently that is much more
> pliable, I think it's called "plasticene" or something similar. Quite a
> bit
> more expensive but looks like it would be much more workable. Seems to be
> oil based.
>
> #3 Play-Doh. One of our local builders used it for his intersection
> fairings
> and loves it. Of course it's cheap and readily available. Because Play-Doh
> water-based http://www.hasbro.com/playdoh/pl/page.faq/dn/default.cfm would
> it therefore be more of a problem to get released?
>
> In addition to upper & lower intersection fairings on two planes I also
> need
> to make an empennage intersection fairing from scratch for my RV-3. As you
> can appreciate I'd like to get the best materials and techniques locked in
> before entering fiberglass hell once again.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-3.com <http://www.rv-3.com>
> www.rv-8.com <http://www.rv-8.com>
>
Randy, I am by no means a Guru, but have used all of those above. BUT, the
best IMHO is pourable foam. Buy it from AS. It sands very nicely, is cheap
and fills whatever shape you need. Can even be left behind in some places if
desired without adding measurable weight. Cover it with clear tape or
plastic after shaping to get it to release. Electrical tape will also work
as a release agent. for smoother finish you can cover the shaped foam with
micro and sand to perfect shape, then cover with a quality release agent.
Play dough works without release agent, but is heavier and more difficult
to form. some of it usually gets stuck to the lay-up leaving behind the
color you chose. It is too heavy to leave behind of course.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vp4skydoc/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
-----Original Message-----
>>>Fiberglass gurus,
Well, that leaves me out of the picture but it won't stop me from piping
up.
>>>the best clay to use for forming
I used a clay that came in a block, about 1"x4"x4", of 4 colors. Each
color tore off as a long rectangle. I liked how the stuff stuck to
itself, smoothed out and stayed soft (non-hardening). I got it at the
local craft store but can't tell you the brand.
I will be entering this dreaded zone of stickiness and dust soon
myself....Yuck!!
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
> Oh gawd, fiberglass hell. You have my condolences.
>
> I used a greyish-green clay from the local art supply store. It's oil
> based and is rather hard, but not too bad when warm. I applied Turtlewax
> as a release agent but really don't think it was necessary. After I
> completed all this clay molding effort, a local long eze builder stopped
> by years ago and said, "Ya know, that's old school. We glass guys just
> use strips of duct tape to blend the contours and form the fairings, and
> you don't need any release agent. Glass won't stick to it."
>
> He's right. It doesn't. I might try this when I venture into the
> composite abyss the next time.
>
> Have fun!
> Brian in Albeqwerky
Ooh, strips of duct tape, sounds worth trying! Anyone tried that? Those eze
guys should know.
Thanks Brian,
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
http://www.airventure.org/2005/gallery/images/sun24/detailing.jpg Do
you think that the photographer even noticed the Bonanza?
Vince Frazier
F-1H Rocket, N540VF
http://vincesrocket.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sealer for canopy skirts |
Hi folks,
Can someone tell me what material is being used for a seal between the
canopy Plexi and the skirts and where to obtain it? Van's said they use a bead
of
window sealer.
Thanks,
Bob Trumpfheller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: And another crash at Oshkosh? Pilots Report |
Ross:
Sorry to hear about your mishap. Your sharing your insights with the rest
of us is greatly appreciated.
I have an extra forward support rod for the roll bar if you need it.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
finishing up stuff...seems to never end!
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Cutting or Punching Panels |
Looking for feedback on RV builder experiences with panel cutting or punching companies
out there in the RV world today... Do you want to share your panel experience?
Darrell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
I do builder assistance on the turbine Lancair IVP and currently work on 3 projects.
Duct tape is a common release tape for epoxy but don't try it using polyester
or vinylester. It will disolve the tape and leave a gooey mess.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cutting or Punching Panels |
I drew my panel up in Pro-E and then sent it to a machine shop. Came out
perfect. I imagine a water jet company would also be good.
>
>Looking for feedback on RV builder experiences with panel cutting or
>punching companies out there in the RV world today... Do you want to share
>your panel experience?
>
>Darrell
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Modeling Clay Product |
A Modeling Clay Product: 2 pound block, trade name: NSP, Non-Drying
Modeling Clay, "Soft", Sulphur- Free Plasteline, by Chanant. I used this,
probably over-kill, sculptor's clay to give that "professional" RV look to
gear intersection fairings, ha ha. You need less than a pound clay to mold
an intersection.
Masking Tape Ideas: I used masking tape only to hold a couple small filler
wood pieces in place and to restrict clay from innards. I believe not
practical to use tape alone to build up an aerodynamic shape at
fuselage-gear fairing-wheel pants intersections. The plastic plane guys may
use tape for long run intersections, or use lots of post glass filler. One
suggested aluminum window screen to shape 3-D compound curves. I didn't find
this practical for our relatively small and removable intersections. Just
happy to be finishing fourth intersection.
Jack -8 95%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
Brian, do you use duct tape in small strips for creating compound curves? Or
would you use modeling clay?
Randy
> I do builder assistance on the turbine Lancair IVP and currently work on 3
> projects. Duct tape is a common release tape for epoxy but don't try it
> using polyester or vinylester. It will disolve the tape and leave a gooey
> mess.
>
>
> BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
> CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
> 101 Caroline Circle
> Hurricane, WV 25526
> 304-562-6800 home
> 304-395-4932 cell
>
> How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
Randy,
A little off topic but how is the project going? I have checked your sight
and not much updated. I know the time is better spent in the shop when you
near completion.
Hope you fly soon,
Bruce Gray
RV8 #81745
Fuse Floor section
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Which clay?
>Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 09:42:58 -0700
>
>
>Fiberglass gurus,
>
>I'm getting ready to do intersection fairings on my plane as well as a
>buddy's and wanted to get some last minute advice on the best clay to use
>for forming. From what I've gathered, and used before, there seem to be
>three options...
>
>#1 Dark brown stuff that I purchased from a craft store and used on my
>RV-8
>(http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Fairings.htm), but it was kind of hard and
>difficult to work with. I suspect there is better stuff out there.
>
>#2 Lighter tan stuff I found in the craft store recently that is much more
>pliable, I think it's called "plasticene" or something similar. Quite a bit
>more expensive but looks like it would be much more workable. Seems to be
>oil based.
>
>#3 Play-Doh. One of our local builders used it for his intersection
>fairings
>and loves it. Of course it's cheap and readily available. Because Play-Doh
>water-based http://www.hasbro.com/playdoh/pl/page.faq/dn/default.cfm would
>it therefore be more of a problem to get released?
>
>In addition to upper & lower intersection fairings on two planes I also
>need
>to make an empennage intersection fairing from scratch for my RV-3. As you
>can appreciate I'd like to get the best materials and techniques locked in
>before entering fiberglass hell once again.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Randy Lervold
>www.rv-3.com
>www.rv-8.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
I have used bondo over clear packing tape and then clear packing tape on top
as a release. Worked good.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Randy Lervold
Date: 08/04/05 10:41:33
Subject: RV-List: Re: Modeling...clay.
> Oh gawd, fiberglass hell. You have my condolences.
>
> I used a greyish-green clay from the local art supply store. It's oil
> based and is rather hard, but not too bad when warm. I applied Turtlewax
> as a release agent but really don't think it was necessary. After I
> completed all this clay molding effort, a local long eze builder stopped
> by years ago and said, "Ya know, that's old school. We glass guys just
> use strips of duct tape to blend the contours and form the fairings, and
> you don't need any release agent. Glass won't stick to it."
>
> He's right. It doesn't. I might try this when I venture into the
> composite abyss the next time.
>
> Have fun!
> Brian in Albeqwerky
Ooh, strips of duct tape, sounds worth trying! Anyone tried that? Those eze
guys should know.
Thanks Brian,
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
Randy,
Last week at OSH I attended a forum by Sam James (Fiberglass for RVs) and
he said "clear clay" is best . . . I didn't have a pencil so didn't write
down the vendor . . . and am trusting my failing memory!
Sam is easy to contact and very willing to answer questions.
http://www.jamesaircraft.com/
Good Luck,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 Bldr SE Iowa
On 8/4/05, Randy Lervold wrote:
>
>
> Fiberglass gurus,
>
> I'm getting ready to do intersection fairings on my plane as well as a
> buddy's and wanted to get some last minute advice on the best clay to use
> for forming. From what I've gathered, and used before, there seem to be
> three options...
>
> #1 Dark brown stuff that I purchased from a craft store and used on my
> RV-8
> (http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Fairings.htm), but it was kind of hard and
> difficult to work with. I suspect there is better stuff out there.
>
> #2 Lighter tan stuff I found in the craft store recently that is much more
> pliable, I think it's called "plasticene" or something similar. Quite a
> bit
> more expensive but looks like it would be much more workable. Seems to be
> oil based.
>
> #3 Play-Doh. One of our local builders used it for his intersection
> fairings
> and loves it. Of course it's cheap and readily available. Because Play-Doh
> water-based http://www.hasbro.com/playdoh/pl/page.faq/dn/default.cfm would
> it therefore be more of a problem to get released?
>
> In addition to upper & lower intersection fairings on two planes I also
> need
> to make an empennage intersection fairing from scratch for my RV-3. As you
> can appreciate I'd like to get the best materials and techniques locked in
> before entering fiberglass hell once again.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-3.com <http://www.rv-3.com>
> www.rv-8.com <http://www.rv-8.com>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
Randy, I do composites every day. I've made my fair share of mistakes and thrown
away enought stuff to build a small composite airframe. What you decide to use
to form the part is personal preference. Whats more important is the cloth
you use for a given application. Feel free to call me if you want to talk things
over.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting or Punching Panels |
In a message dated 08/04/2005 2:59:25 PM Central Standard Time,
lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com writes:
Do you want to share your panel experience?
>>>>>
Glad to- I used Steve Davis in Memphis and the results were most excellent,
IMHO- go to:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5096
then click "next entry>>" at the top of each page for the whole story.
Highly recommended and no commision- just a happy customer!
Mark Phillips -6A, 215 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
Since the question was about clay .... this reply may not be
appropriate. You could also build up the area with blue foam, sand to
shape and just lay the glass on it, leaving a way to 'split' the
buildup. Then you can use gasoline to melt the foam.
Linn
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>I have used bondo over clear packing tape and then clear packing tape on top
>as a release. Worked good.
>
>Tim
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: Randy Lervold
>Date: 08/04/05 10:41:33
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Modeling...clay.
>
>
>
>
>>Oh gawd, fiberglass hell. You have my condolences.
>>
>>I used a greyish-green clay from the local art supply store. It's oil
>>based and is rather hard, but not too bad when warm. I applied Turtlewax
>>as a release agent but really don't think it was necessary. After I
>>completed all this clay molding effort, a local long eze builder stopped
>>by years ago and said, "Ya know, that's old school. We glass guys just
>>use strips of duct tape to blend the contours and form the fairings, and
>>you don't need any release agent. Glass won't stick to it."
>>
>>He's right. It doesn't. I might try this when I venture into the
>>composite abyss the next time.
>>
>>Have fun!
>>Brian in Albeqwerky
>>
>>
>
>
>Ooh, strips of duct tape, sounds worth trying! Anyone tried that? Those eze
>guys should know.
>
>Thanks Brian,
>Randy
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Sealer for canopy skirts |
I used Lexel from the local home store. So far so good....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of N67BT(at)aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 1:54 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Sealer for canopy skirts
>
>
> Hi folks,
>
> Can someone tell me what material is being used for a seal
> between the canopy Plexi and the skirts and where to obtain
> it? Van's said they use a bead of window sealer.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Trumpfheller
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
3 years ago I faced the same decision. I demoed the 9A at Vans and chose it for
the following reasons:
1) I've taken some aerobatic lessons and was not interested in that aspect of flight
as I was airsick prone!
2) My objective was to obtain a solid cross-country machine and I believed the
9A could have an edge in this flight area. For further insight talk to the Van's
demo pilots who fly all their designs back and forth across the US to airshows
every year.
3) The 9A was designed to fly efficiently with a wider range of powerplants than
the 7, from the economical O-235 (115hp) to the 160hp O-320, giving you more
options when choosing an engine.
4) My goal was to build it as light as practical without compromising safety.
My fixed pitch standard O-320 came in at 1064#, unpainted.
5) The big tail impressed me. Again with the prospect of stability and rudder
authority.
6) The 2/3rds span slotted flaps in the 9 yield a 44mph stall speed with ample
prestall warning, which agrees well with Van's numbers.
7) The power off sink rate is 500 fpm, about 1/2 that of the 6 or 7 which show
about 1000 fpm. This could be the crucial difference in surviving an off-field
landing over rough country.
Negatives-
There really aren't any that matter. The 9 carries 36g fuel while the 7 can handle
42g
The 9 is rated at +4.4 -2g while the 7 is +6 -4g. Thus there is built greater
margin of safety when flying at max cruise and encounter severe turbulence or
in recovery from "unusual attitudes". This also results in a lower maneuver speed
in the 9 versus the 7.
My limited flight experience with the 7 revealed that stick forces are very light
at cruise speeds. You just think about the turn and it happens. The 9 is
also very light but gives noticeably more feedback. My feeling was that if I
swatted a bug or sneezed in the 7 I could end up inverted before I knew what happened,
while the 9 doesn't give that impression.
Caveat - My total airtime in my 9A is a little over 8 hours which isn't a lot
of time in a variety of conditions on which to base an impression. So take this
with a grain of salt. There are many listers who have flown both designs and
can amplify these impressions and add their own experiences.
Obviously the ideal thing is to fly both designs and choose the one that best suits
your needs. You can't go wrong with either. And I wouldn't worry much about
relative resale since 9A's will always be scarce versus the 7A and my guess
is that the 9A's reputation will grow as more people have an opportunity to
fly it long distances.
Mike Holland
N 192MH
8 of 40 hours flown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Setser <setser(at)rcn.com> |
Randy and Bob,
I was at Sam's forum as well. Best I can tell from my notes, Sam's
'clear clay' source is Sun Coast Resins, 800 282 9498.
Hope this helps...
Dave Setser
RV-7 wings
www.mightyarcher.com/rv7
**
Randy,
Last week at OSH I attended a forum by Sam James (Fiberglass for RVs) and
he said "clear clay" is best . . . I didn't have a pencil so didn't write
down the vendor . . . and am trusting my failing memory!
Sam is easy to contact and very willing to answer questions.
http://www.jamesaircraft.com/
Good Luck,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 Bldr SE Iowa
**
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Project For Sale |
Listers,
I'm selling my RV-6 kit so that I can build an RV-10 (expanding family
makes the -6 too impractical at this time).
I've got all four kits, all major structure is complete, wings & emp are
rigged and it's ready for engine/prop/instruments.
The project is located on Long Island, NY and I'm asking $12k, OBO. Please
e-mail me directly if interested or for more information/pictures.
Tom Gesele
E-Mail: tgesele(at)optonline.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
SNIP Hi folks,
Can someone tell me what material is being used for a seal between the
canopy Plexi and the skirts and where to obtain it? Van's said they use
a bead
of
window sealer.
Thanks,
Bob Trumpfheller SNIP
************************************
I have used both ProSeal or clear silicone caulk. Either works well.
You can't paint over the silicone, but it's not as messy as the ProSeal.
Proseal is managable when put into a baggie and applied like cake
frosting from a small hole snipped in one corner.
Either will make the canopy noticably more rigid and will eliminate the
squeaks that will develop between the plexi and the frame.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
What Bonanza??!!
On 8/4/05, Frazier, Vincent A wrote:
>
>
> http://www.airventure.org/2005/gallery/images/sun24/detailing.jpg Do
> you think that the photographer even noticed the Bonanza?
>
> Vince Frazier
> F-1H Rocket, N540VF
> http://vincesrocket.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brett Hahn" <abakerson(at)zianet.com> |
FYI
Experimental Aircraft Technology magazine had an in-depth feature article on
the performance and flying qualities of the RV-9A.
It was evaluated and written by Brien Seeley & CJ Stephens of the CAFE
foundation.
Part 1 came out in the May-June issue, part 2 came out in the July-August
issue.
www.extechmag.com
Ciao,
Brett
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Snow" <daniel.snow(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: 7A or 9A
>
> I was ready to place my order for a 9A until I talked with a guy at the
> KitLog Pro booth. He strongly encouraged me to reconsider the 7A, saying
> that it didn't fly that much differently than the 9A, plus you have the
> expanded option of aerobatics. For those of you that have flown both and
> decided on a 9A, can you tell me why you chose the 9A? Was there really
> that much difference between the two?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Listers:
I am selling or trading my RV8A. It is a very well built Airplane with 145
Hrs on the airframe and 0-360, 180 hp. Lycoming with a Hartzell C/S Prop.
NIce VFR Day/ night panel with microair radios, Trio auto pilot. NIce
paint.Will trade for nice RV4 and cash. I am going to build a new RV 8.
Please contact off list at algrajek(at)msn.com. or Al Grajek 859-361-9460
Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
>
>Brian, do you use duct tape in small strips for creating compound curves?
>Or
>would you use modeling clay?
>
>Randy
Long Eze dude said it's used everywhere. The more intense the curve, the
smaller the pieces of tape. Build up with little ones, then start blending
it all with longer pieces, stretched and pulled as necessary. I haven't
really tried it yet, but plan to eventually.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
> Long Eze dude said it's used everywhere. The more intense the curve, the
> smaller the pieces of tape. Build up with little ones, then start
> blending
> it all with longer pieces, stretched and pulled as necessary. I haven't
> really tried it yet, but plan to eventually.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
I'm on it. I'll try it and let you know. Really makes sense when you think
about it. I need to build an empennage fairing from scratch for my -3 and
I've been noodling over how to bridge the gap and create a shape. This duct
tape thing my be just the solution.
Cheers,
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Modeling...clay. |
Be carefull streching duct tape on inside curves, the tension will pull loose in
the curve and make bulges in your layups. I've had it happen and ended up throwing
away an otherwise good part. I prefer to use clay polished with water and
sealed with PVA Partall 10.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ed " <ed_88(at)hotmail.com> |
From: "ed \240" <ed_88@hotmai...
Do you have any photos available on the web?
Also do you have any thoughts about how much you wanted for it?
>From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com,
> vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV 8A for sale
>Date: Fri, 05 Aug 2005 11:26:22 -0400
>
>
>Listers:
>I am selling or trading my RV8A. It is a very well built Airplane with 145
>Hrs on the airframe and 0-360, 180 hp. Lycoming with a Hartzell C/S Prop.
>NIce VFR Day/ night panel with microair radios, Trio auto pilot. NIce
>paint.Will trade for nice RV4 and cash. I am going to build a new RV 8.
>Please contact off list at algrajek(at)msn.com. or Al Grajek 859-361-9460
>Al Grajek
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Randy Simpson at Airtime |
Group,
Does anyone know how to get in touch with Randy Simpson at Airtime? I
ordered a set of tie downs two months ago and have not heard a word out of
him. He does not respond to e-mail. He has my money. Any ideas? Thanks.
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | cleaning piston ring grooves |
I had a stuck oil ring on one of my cylinders for my IO360.
the ring came off clean from the piston, but there are some (very) hard
deposits in 2 or 3 small places in the groove.
what is an acceptable method to remove these deposits, walnut
blasting?? mechanical ring groove cleaner?? some other scraper
contraption?? chemical??
interested to know what method(s) the old hands use.
Thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | cleaning piston ring grooves |
A busted section of the ring that out of that grove will work. Just be
careful not to scratch the piston deeply. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of gert
Subject: RV-List: cleaning piston ring grooves
I had a stuck oil ring on one of my cylinders for my IO360.
the ring came off clean from the piston, but there are some (very) hard
deposits in 2 or 3 small places in the groove.
what is an acceptable method to remove these deposits, walnut
blasting?? mechanical ring groove cleaner?? some other scraper
contraption?? chemical??
interested to know what method(s) the old hands use.
Thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting or Punching Panels |
In a message dated 8/4/2005 6:08:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
I drew my panel up in Pro-E and then sent it to a machine shop. Came out
perfect. I imagine a water jet company would also be good.
>
>Looking for feedback on RV builder experiences with panel cutting or
>punching companies out there in the RV world today... Do you want to share
>your panel experience?
=====================================
And how many homebuilders have the top of the line ProE 3D parametric solids
modeling package available to them? ;o) I can't afford it, so I use AutoCAD
Inventor Release 8.
Any cheap CAD program out there should be able to be able to output the
required .dxf file that the laser or water jet cutter subcontractors should need
to cut your panel. You don't really need the high end stuff. The panel is
really just 2D.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 755hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cleaning piston ring grooves |
There is a special tool that is made to clean out the ring groove. I own
one, but I'd start with a methyl chloride (carb cleaner) soak though to see
what you can dissolve off the piston. You should be able to completely
clean the piston without using a tool. It's almost impossible to use even
the tools made for this purpose without damaging the piston. Here's a quote
about it:
"Unless the piston grooves are clean and free of scratches, oil cannot form
a film to keep the ring from contacting the piston ring groove. Any carbon
deposits or scratches in the ring groove will cause the oil film to be
ineffective, leading to premature wear, loss of compression, and oil
consumption. Scraping piston grooves with a special tool or a broken ring
results in scratching the groove and is one of the reasons rebuilt engines
do not last as long as new engines. How then do you clean piston grooves? It
's easy. Soak them in carburetor cleaner, and use a non-metallic brush that
can't scratch the groove. Sometimes a second soaking and brushing are
required. Hot tanks with strong, caustic solvents will dissolve the hardest
deposits and leave clean, shiny grooves".
Good luck!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Throttle / exhaust clearance |
Hi All-
I'm working on the FWF of my -8, and it looks like my throttle cable is
going to be pretty close to my aft crossover tube. The engine is an angle
valve (I wonder why they don't just call them hemi's...) and the cable and
it's associated bracketry are from Van's. I'm envisioning firesleeve on
the cable as a minimum, and perhaps some rigid shielding. How much
clearance does one need to protect a naked cable, and what have you guys
been doing for shielding, if anything?
As ever, thanks in advance to those who have been there, done that!
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: cleaning piston ring grooves |
> what is an acceptable method to remove these deposits, walnut
> blasting?? mechanical ring groove cleaner?? some other scraper
> contraption?? chemical??
>
> interested to know what method(s) the old hands use.
I'm not sure how common this technology is, but at OSH
there was a guy demonstrating an ultrasonic cleaning vat
which would be perfect for this application. If they
are common, I'll bet a machine shop near you would be
happy to clean these parts for a few bucks.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cleaning piston ring grooves |
Toothbrush and carb cleaner works great.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "gert" <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: cleaning piston ring grooves
>
> I had a stuck oil ring on one of my cylinders for my IO360.
>
> the ring came off clean from the piston, but there are some (very) hard
> deposits in 2 or 3 small places in the groove.
>
> what is an acceptable method to remove these deposits, walnut
> blasting?? mechanical ring groove cleaner?? some other scraper
> contraption?? chemical??
>
> interested to know what method(s) the old hands use.
>
> Thanks
>
> Gert
>
> --
>
>
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob 1" <rv3a.1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: And another crash at Oshkosh? Pilots Report |
Depending on the winds, I'd suggest that another option is to land on the
upwind side of the runway. With even a 5 mph crosswind component, a 10
second spacing will let the lead aircraft's wake blow 75' or so downwind,
which should give plenty of room, assuming the lead aircraft landed anywhere
close to the centerline.
This is also something to consider if you do formation takeoffs. If you're
#2, make sure you're on the upwind side of lead during takeoff, 'cause there
is some nasty turbulence on the downwind side of a low/slow RV.
KB
================================
Excellent point. Works especially well....
when departing as a 'flight of two' with an F-51 Mustang in the lead.
Bob - RV3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting or Punching Panels |
Why not buy the punch and do it yourself? I bought a punch from
Avery,(http://www.averytools.com/results.cfm?keyword=punch ) but all the
tool companies sell them. Mine is reversible. It cuts a 3 1/8 inch or a 2
1/4 inch hole depending on how you set up the tool. For my VM 1000, and
other odd shaped holes, I used the template that came with it ,then used a
router that followed the templates. For the radios I drilled the corners,
scribed, cut a bit on the conservative side and filed to fit.
I am very happy with the results of my panel. Just my two cents worth.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, St. Charles, MO
N842S
The wings went on yesterday! Getting close now!
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cutting or Punching Panels
>
>
> In a message dated 8/4/2005 6:08:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
>
> I drew my panel up in Pro-E and then sent it to a machine shop. Came out
> perfect. I imagine a water jet company would also be good.
>
>
>>
>>
>>Looking for feedback on RV builder experiences with panel cutting or
>>punching companies out there in the RV world today... Do you want to
>>share
>>your panel experience?
>
>
> =====================================
>
> And how many homebuilders have the top of the line ProE 3D parametric
> solids
> modeling package available to them? ;o) I can't afford it, so I use
> AutoCAD
> Inventor Release 8.
>
> Any cheap CAD program out there should be able to be able to output the
> required .dxf file that the laser or water jet cutter subcontractors
> should need
> to cut your panel. You don't really need the high end stuff. The panel
> is
> really just 2D.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 755hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle / exhaust clearance |
Glenn, I have an Ellison and my Throttle cable comes in from the side, and goes
right by the exhaust. I used Vans heat shields, two side by side and the Throttle
cable does not appear to be affected by the heat at all. That should be plenty
of protection.
Mark Phipps, N242RP
Glen Matejcek wrote:
Hi All-
I'm working on the FWF of my -8, and it looks like my throttle cable is
going to be pretty close to my aft crossover tube. The engine is an angle
valve (I wonder why they don't just call them hemi's...) and the cable and
it's associated bracketry are from Van's. I'm envisioning firesleeve on
the cable as a minimum, and perhaps some rigid shielding. How much
clearance does one need to protect a naked cable, and what have you guys
been doing for shielding, if anything?
As ever, thanks in advance to those who have been there, done that!
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cleaning piston ring grooves |
Thanks for all your suggestions, I think I will let it soak in carb
cleaner for a while.
Gert
gert wrote:
>
>I had a stuck oil ring on one of my cylinders for my IO360.
>
>the ring came off clean from the piston, but there are some (very) hard
>deposits in 2 or 3 small places in the groove.
>
>what is an acceptable method to remove these deposits, walnut
>blasting?? mechanical ring groove cleaner?? some other scraper
>contraption?? chemical??
>
>interested to know what method(s) the old hands use.
>
>Thanks
>
>Gert
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle / exhaust clearance |
Glenn,
We also used Van's heat shield, have worked well for the 300+ hours.
Chuck
>From: mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Throttle / exhaust clearance
>Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2005 07:03:37 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Glenn, I have an Ellison and my Throttle cable comes in from the side, and
>goes right by the exhaust. I used Vans heat shields, two side by side and
>the Throttle cable does not appear to be affected by the heat at all. That
>should be plenty of protection.
>
>Mark Phipps, N242RP
>
>Glen Matejcek wrote:
>
>Hi All-
>
>I'm working on the FWF of my -8, and it looks like my throttle cable is
>going to be pretty close to my aft crossover tube. The engine is an angle
>valve (I wonder why they don't just call them hemi's...) and the cable and
>it's associated bracketry are from Van's. I'm envisioning firesleeve on
>the cable as a minimum, and perhaps some rigid shielding. How much
>clearance does one need to protect a naked cable, and what have you guys
>been doing for shielding, if anything?
>
>As ever, thanks in advance to those who have been there, done that!
>
>Glen Matejcek
>aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Cutting or Punching Panels |
Avery rents their punch for a couple days & a small fee. That's how I did
mine.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Struyk
> Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2005 9:32 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cutting or Punching Panels
>
>
> Why not buy the punch and do it yourself? I bought a punch
> from
> Avery,(http://www.averytools.com/results.cfm?keyword=punch )
> but all the tool companies sell them. Mine is reversible. It
> cuts a 3 1/8 inch or a 2
> 1/4 inch hole depending on how you set up the tool. For my VM
> 1000, and other odd shaped holes, I used the template that
> came with it ,then used a router that followed the templates.
> For the radios I drilled the corners, scribed, cut a bit on
> the conservative side and filed to fit.
>
> I am very happy with the results of my panel. Just my two cents worth.
>
> Steve Struyk
> RV-8, St. Charles, MO
> N842S
> The wings went on yesterday! Getting close now!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cutting or Punching Panels
>
>
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 8/4/2005 6:08:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
> >
> > I drew my panel up in Pro-E and then sent it to a machine
> shop. Came out
> > perfect. I imagine a water jet company would also be good.
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>Looking for feedback on RV builder experiences with panel
> cutting or
> >>punching companies out there in the RV world today... Do
> you want to
> >>share
> >>your panel experience?
> >
> >
> > =====================================
> >
> > And how many homebuilders have the top of the line ProE 3D
> parametric
> > solids
> > modeling package available to them? ;o) I can't afford it,
> so I use
> > AutoCAD
> > Inventor Release 8.
> >
> > Any cheap CAD program out there should be able to be able
> to output the
> > required .dxf file that the laser or water jet cutter
> subcontractors
> > should need
> > to cut your panel. You don't really need the high end
> stuff. The panel
> > is
> > really just 2D.
> >
> > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 755hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
socal-rvlist(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Riveting while pregnant? |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Okay, weird question... my wife is 21 weeks pregnant. Is it okay for her to help
me in riveting the wings? I could not find any information on
the internet if the noise or vibrations would hurt the baby... anyone have some
advice? someone on this list must be an OB or Doctor or
asked this question before...
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting while pregnant? |
On Sat, 6 Aug 2005, Matt Johnson wrote:
> Okay, weird question... my wife is 21 weeks pregnant. Is it okay for her to
> help me in riveting the wings?
I'd be worried that the child would grow up to be a repeat offender.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Riveting while pregnant? |
Congratulations on the growing family! I doubt you have much to be concerned about
here, Matt. OTOH, I also doubt there are any published studies to base that
on... For goodness sakes, be careful seeking that kind of info from the Internet,
of all places. I can ask my audiologist friend what the likely sound
pressure levels are in utero, given the rivet gun noise level and all the attenuation
that surely occurs from air/soft tissue/amniotic fluid interfaces, reflections,
etc. Perhaps we could arrive at something better that a wild guess
at the baby's noise exposure in utero. No promises, though. To get us started,
does anyone know the SPL of a rivet gun in typical operation?
I'd have been mighty glad for my wife's help with riveting had I been building
my RV back when the kids were gestating. I would not have had any reservations
about letting her help out while pregnant, even around all the noisy tools in
the shop. Maybe not while using MEK or ProSeal, or shooting paint. That said,
if you put her to work bucking, or better yet, handling the rivet gun while
you buck since that is a better use of your builder's skill, don't blame me
if your kid is born with a birth mark resembling a bucking bar, or has a penchant
for submachine guns when he gets older.
Let us know if he turns backflips when he hears the noise from that 3X rivet shooter,
okay?
-Stormy
(into aviation since 1991 and pediatrics since 1983 - wife says I only practice
the latter to fund the former and she's, uh, mostly correct)
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Johnson <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Riveting while pregnant? (not processed: message from valid local
sender)
Okay, weird question... my wife is 21 weeks pregnant. Is it okay for her to help
me in riveting the wings? I could not find any information on
the internet if the noise or vibrations would hurt the baby... anyone have some
advice? someone on this list must be an OB or Doctor or
asked this question before...
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sdavis12" <sdavis12(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting or Punching Panels |
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cutting or Punching Panels
>
> In a message dated 08/04/2005 2:59:25 PM Central Standard Time,
> lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com writes:
> Do you want to share your panel experience?
> >>>>>
>
> Glad to- I used Steve Davis in Memphis and the results were most
excellent,
> IMHO- go to:
>
> http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5096
>
> then click "next entry>>" at the top of each page for the whole story.
> Highly recommended and no commision- just a happy customer!
>
> Mark Phillips -6A, 215 hours
>
>
> --
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle / exhaust clearance |
Glen,
As others have said, on my IO-360-A1B6, I used a heat shield on the exhaust
in the vicinity of the cable, and I also wrapped the cable with some "heat
reflective" wrap tape stuff along the last 18" or so of cable (at the servo
end). It has held up well for hundreds of hours.
I used firesleeve to wrap my mixture cable, which goes straight under the
engine, near the exhaust. I'd say that the mixture control is smoother than
the throttle at this point. Not sure if that says anything about the
firesleeve versus reflective heat wrap, or is just coincidental.
But I would definitely recommend wrapping the control cable with some sort
of protection in addition to using heat shields where the cable crosses
close by the exhaust.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (583 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Throttle / exhaust clearance
>
> Hi All-
>
> I'm working on the FWF of my -8, and it looks like my throttle cable is
> going to be pretty close to my aft crossover tube. The engine is an angle
> valve (I wonder why they don't just call them hemi's...) and the cable and
> it's associated bracketry are from Van's. I'm envisioning firesleeve on
> the cable as a minimum, and perhaps some rigid shielding. How much
> clearance does one need to protect a naked cable, and what have you guys
> been doing for shielding, if anything?
>
> As ever, thanks in advance to those who have been there, done that!
>
> Glen Matejcek
> aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting while pregnant? |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Thanks guys for all the advice. My father in law has offered to help with the wings
for now so she is off the hook. I do appreciate all the
replies I got...
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: sportav8r(at)aol.com
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2005 21:57:03 -0400
Subject: RV-List: Riveting while pregnant?
>
> Congratulations on the growing family! I doubt you have much to be
> concerned about here, Matt. OTOH, I also doubt there are any published
> studies to base that on... For goodness sakes, be careful seeking that
> kind of info from the Internet, of all places. I can ask my
> audiologist friend what the likely sound pressure levels are in utero,
> given the rivet gun noise level and all the attenuation that surely
> occurs from air/soft tissue/amniotic fluid interfaces, reflections,
> etc. Perhaps we could arrive at something better that a wild guess at
> the baby's noise exposure in utero. No promises, though. To get us
> started, does anyone know the SPL of a rivet gun in typical operation?
>
> I'd have been mighty glad for my wife's help with riveting had I been
> building my RV back when the kids were gestating. I would not have had
> any reservations about letting her help out while pregnant, even around
> all the noisy tools in the shop. Maybe not while using MEK or ProSeal,
> or shooting paint. That said, if you put her to work bucking, or
> better yet, handling the rivet gun while you buck since that is a
> better use of your builder's skill, don't blame me if your kid is born
> with a birth mark resembling a bucking bar, or has a penchant for
> submachine guns when he gets older.
>
> Let us know if he turns backflips when he hears the noise from that 3X
> rivet shooter, okay?
>
> -Stormy
>
> (into aviation since 1991 and pediatrics since 1983 - wife says I only
> practice the latter to fund the former and she's, uh, mostly correct)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Johnson <matt(at)n559rv.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv7and7a(at)yahoogroups.com;
> socal-rvlist(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: Riveting while pregnant? (not processed: message from
> valid local sender)
>
>
>
> Okay, weird question... my wife is 21 weeks pregnant. Is it okay for
> her to help
> me in riveting the wings? I could not find any information on
> the internet if the noise or vibrations would hurt the baby... anyone
> have some
> advice? someone on this list must be an OB or Doctor or
> asked this question before...
>
> - Matt
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting while pregnant? |
He could do worse for a front name !!!
Buck Clary
RV 75 TX sold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting while pregnant? |
----- Original Message -----
From: <sportav8r(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Riveting while pregnant?
>
> Congratulations on the growing family! I doubt you have much to be
> concerned about here, Matt. OTOH, I also doubt there are any published
> studies to base that on... For goodness sakes, be careful seeking that
> kind of info from the Internet, of all places. I can ask my audiologist
> friend what the likely sound pressure levels are in utero, given the rivet
> gun noise level and all the attenuation that surely occurs from air/soft
> tissue/amniotic fluid interfaces, reflections, etc. Perhaps we could
> arrive at something better that a wild guess at the baby's noise exposure
> in utero. No promises, though. To get us started, does anyone know the
> SPL of a rivet gun in typical operation?
>
> I'd have been mighty glad for my wife's help with riveting had I been
> building my RV back when the kids were gestating. I would not have had
> any reservations about letting her help out while pregnant, even around
> all the noisy tools in the shop. Maybe not while using MEK or ProSeal, or
> shooting paint. That said, if you put her to work bucking, or better yet,
> handling the rivet gun while you buck since that is a better use of your
> builder's skill, don't blame me if your kid is born with a birth mark
> resembling a bucking bar, or has a penchant for submachine guns when he
> gets older.
>
> Let us know if he turns backflips when he hears the noise from that 3X
> rivet shooter, okay?
>
> -Stormy
>
> (into aviation since 1991 and pediatrics since 1983 - wife says I only
> practice the latter to fund the former and she's, uh, mostly correct)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Johnson <matt(at)n559rv.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv7and7a(at)yahoogroups.com;
> socal-rvlist(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: Riveting while pregnant? (not processed: message from
> valid local sender)
>
>
> Okay, weird question... my wife is 21 weeks pregnant. Is it okay for her
> to help
> me in riveting the wings? I could not find any information on
> the internet if the noise or vibrations would hurt the baby... anyone have
> some
> advice? someone on this list must be an OB or Doctor or
> asked this question before...
>
> - Matt
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Throttle / exhaust clearance |
Thanks to all for the feedback. Are Van's shields SS or some other
material?
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle / exhaust clearance |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Throttle / exhaust clearance
>
> Thanks to all for the feedback. Are Van's shields SS or some other
> material?
>
> Glen Matejcek
> aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley(at)adelphia.net> |
I purchased a very neat little plunger device to holds the canopy have way open
when flying solo. A fellow RV8 driver asked me where I got it so he could buy
one and I can't locate any info in all my junk. Does anyone have a source?
It's the spring loaded plunger that bolts to the canopy rail.
Rich Crosley
N948RC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle / exhaust clearance |
The heat shields I got from Van's are aluminum.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Throttle / exhaust clearance
>
> Thanks to all for the feedback. Are Van's shields SS or some other
> material?
>
> Glen Matejcek
> aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Canopy Stop |
Hi Richard,
I used to use the plunger, but I just upgraded to a
different system, which I feel is much better.
Here is a link to some photos. You should probably
buy one of these, and give the plunger to your
friend. If for some reason he *really* wants the
plunger, and you also keep yours, I'll be happy to
send mine to him. Just send me an address.
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 0508071814513
Best regards,
Mickey
Richard Crosley wrote:
>
>
> I purchased a very neat little plunger device to holds the canopy
> have way open when flying solo. A fellow RV8 driver asked me where I
> got it so he could buy one and I can't locate any info in all my
> junk. Does anyone have a source? It's the spring loaded plunger
> that bolts to the canopy rail.
>
> Rich Crosley N948RC
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Canopy Stop |
Received-SPF: none
Here's the link: http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/rv8-latch.html I
don't use a latch, I have no problem reaching back to the canopy when flying
solo and don't want to have to fool with a latch when I have someone in the
back.
Jim
Jim Cimino
N7TL
RV-8 S/N 80039
150+ Hours
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Stop
>
> Hi Richard,
>
> I used to use the plunger, but I just upgraded to a
> different system, which I feel is much better.
> Here is a link to some photos. You should probably
> buy one of these, and give the plunger to your
> friend. If for some reason he *really* wants the
> plunger, and you also keep yours, I'll be happy to
> send mine to him. Just send me an address.
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 0508071814513
>
> Best regards,
> Mickey
>
>
> Richard Crosley wrote:
>>
>>
>> I purchased a very neat little plunger device to holds the canopy
>> have way open when flying solo. A fellow RV8 driver asked me where I
>> got it so he could buy one and I can't locate any info in all my
>> junk. Does anyone have a source? It's the spring loaded plunger
>> that bolts to the canopy rail.
>>
>> Rich Crosley N948RC
>>
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 finishing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <alan_products(at)blarg.net> |
I ordered a locking spring plunger from McMaster-Carr, item #8478A3:
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=8478A3&pagenum=2419
-Alan Erickson
|
|I purchased a very neat little plunger device to holds the
|canopy have way open when flying solo. A fellow RV8 driver
|asked me where I got it so he could buy one and I can't locate
|any info in all my junk. Does anyone have a source? It's the
|spring loaded plunger that bolts to the canopy rail.
|
|Rich Crosley
|N948RC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Riveting while pregnant? |
Here's what I got back from the local audiologist. There appears to be potential
cause for concern. Makes you wonder how many kids, whose mamas went to Led
Zeppelin concerts while pregnant, were born brain damaged as a result. I guess
it goes to show you: noise, like water and air, is bad for you and causes cancer
in California. Nothing in life is safe, which is why we need big.gov to
protect us from everything.
-Stormy
1: Ear Hear. 1999 Feb;20(1):21-32.Related Articles, Links
Effects of intense noise exposure on fetal sheep auditory brain stem response and
inner ear histology.
Gerhardt KJ, Pierson LL, Huang X, Abrams RM, Rarey KE.
Department of Communication Sciences and Disorders and the Institute for the Advanced
Study of Communication Processes, University of Florida, Gainesville 32611,
USA.
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate, in two separate experiments, the effects of intense noise
exposures delivered to fetal sheep in utero during a time of rapid auditory
development. DESIGN: In the first experiment, auditory brain stem response (ABR)
thresholds to clicks and tone bursts were recorded from chronically instrumented
fetal sheep in utero before and after exposure of pregnant ewes to intense
broadband noise. A single 16 hr exposure was delivered at 113 days gestational
age, a time when the ABR is just emerging. Thresholds were compared with
an age-matched, nonexposed control group. In the second experiment, fetal sheep
at the same gestational age were exposed four times to broadband noise and their
cochleae were harvested 20 days later for histological analysis by the use
of scanning electron microscopy. Comparisons were made with an age-matched,
nonexposed control group. RESULTS: Experiment One: ABR thresholds recorded between
10 to 20 days after the exposure were not as sen
sitive as thresholds obtained from control fetuses. There was a tendency for thresholds
to 0.5 kHz tone bursts to be more affected than thresholds to clicks.
Experiment Two: Scanning electron microscopy of the organ of Corti from fetuses
exposed to noise from 111 to 114 days gestational age revealed significant
damage to inner and outer hair cells in the middle and apical turns of cochleae.
Similar hair cell damage was not present in control fetuses. CONCLUSIONS:
Intense exogenous noise penetrated the uterus of pregnant sheep and resulted in
elevations in ABR thresholds 2 to 3 wk after exposure. In fetuses repeatedly
exposed to noise, the middle and apical turns of the cochlea showed greater hair
cell damage than found at the same locations in control cochlea. The basal
turn of the cochlea was not damaged
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Randy Simpson at Airtime |
I guess that the word does not get out, he has owed me a set since March
2004. No contact with him since my order.
At this time he is not available to respond or to fill orders. Until he
resurfaces, everyone should avoid placing orders with him.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
At 01:23 PM 8/5/05, you wrote:
>
>Group,
>Does anyone know how to get in touch with Randy Simpson at Airtime? I
>ordered a set of tie downs two months ago and have not heard a word out of
>him. He does not respond to e-mail. He has my money. Any ideas? Thanks.
>Don
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <paul(at)kitlog.com> |
| Subject: | Randy Simpson at Airtime |
I'm not sure where he is. We were talking about this at Airventure this
year. He kind of disappeared off the radar screen. I know a couple of
people who talk to him, and they haven't heard from him. He is by no means
someone who would take someone's money. He must be on a sabbatical in the
woods or something. He loves to take his ultralight out in the middle of
nowhere for a long time.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Subject: Re: RV-List: Randy Simpson at Airtime
I guess that the word does not get out, he has owed me a set since March
2004. No contact with him since my order.
At this time he is not available to respond or to fill orders. Until he
resurfaces, everyone should avoid placing orders with him.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
At 01:23 PM 8/5/05, you wrote:
>
>Group,
>Does anyone know how to get in touch with Randy Simpson at Airtime? I
>ordered a set of tie downs two months ago and have not heard a word out of
>him. He does not respond to e-mail. He has my money. Any ideas? Thanks.
>Don
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | oil breather ideas |
When I built my 6A , an experienced A&P suggested that I weld a stainless
pipe into the exhaust pipe, and then run the oil breather tube into the
pipe. The idea was that oil from the breather port drain into the exhaust
pipe and burn up with the hot exhaust gasses in the pipe thus keeping the
belly nice and clean.
After a couple hundred hours, I don't think it works very well. Add to
that another person who today suggested that the inlet to the exhaust is
welded too far from the tip of the pipe (about 15"). He said that far
upstream, high pressures inside the pipe are creating backpressures into the
breather tube, pressurizing the engine and causing oil seepage from all
around the engine. (another annoying problem from the beginning). He said
to be effective the drain pipe must insert into the exhaust pipe no more
than 2-3" from the tip. (by which point the exhaust gasses are cooler still
and even less likely to burn up and oil fumes, negating further the benefit
of a nice clean belly.
So, unless someone here can enlighten me with some forgotten pearl of
wisdom, I'm going to cut off the drain pipe, weld up the hole in the tail
pipe, and put in some more conventional breather system.
To that end, looking through the Aircraft Spruce catalog, I see 8 different
air-oil separators from $40 to $400. Can anybody recommend or speak about
any of them. One called a Slime Fighter is claimed to be popular on RVs,
but from the picture of it, I don't see how it works or where it deposits
the oil. Others talk about a catch can that fills with oil and needs to be
drained periodically. How periodically?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo(at)verizon.net> |
Ok, I know this has been covered several times so I don't want to beat a
dead horse but I can't find anything in the archives. Finished my
rudder trailing edge today. It came out pretty straight thanks to my
copilot of 32 years but I let the gun get off center a couple of times
and I have a couple of smiley faces. Is there a best way to fix this?
Do they pose a problem other than cosmetic?
Thanks
Rick Leach 40397
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Canopy Stop |
Mike Zeller, RV8 Latch Man has one that requires no spring. Phone (812)
305-2568.
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Stop
>
> I purchased a very neat little plunger device to holds the canopy have way
> open when flying solo. A fellow RV8 driver asked me where I got it so he
> could buy one and I can't locate any info in all my junk. Does anyone
> have a source? It's the spring loaded plunger that bolts to the canopy
> rail.
>
> Rich Crosley
> N948RC
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "" <rvpilot(at)access4less.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy Latches |
Rich,
I'm the guy that makes those canopy latches. I still have some available.
For a good write up and description, go to :
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/rv8-latch.html
Bill Davis
rvpilot(at)access4less.net
I purchased a very neat little plunger device to holds the canopy have way open
when flying solo. A fellow RV8 driver asked me where I got it so he could buy
one and I can't locate any info in all my junk. Does anyone have a source? It's
the spring loaded plunger that bolts to the canopy rail.
Rich Crosley
N948RC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:oil breather ideas |
I ran the breather tube down to the exhaust pipe and aimed the end of it at
the pipe to within about 1/4". This was near the end of the pipe at the
firewall.
This has worked well for both of our RV-4's.
The oil drips onto the outside of the pipe and burns away into the
slipstream.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: oil breather ideas |
In a message dated 08/07/2005 5:29:20 PM Central Standard Time,
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
To that end, looking through the Aircraft Spruce catalog, I see 8 different
air-oil separators from $40 to $400. Can anybody recommend or speak about
any of them.
>>>>
Take a look at:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5172
and click on "next entry>>" at top of page for next three entries. You can
also click on the fotos for bit better foto. This has worked great on my plane
for 215 hours so far...
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steven dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | oil breather ideas |
Andy, instead of just welding the pipe to the exhaust, try inserting a
small bent pipe into the exhaust to point toward the exit. This should
create suction using the venturi effect. To be safe I'd hook up a vacuum
gauge to make sure the effect is only slight. If it turns out to work
better than expected perhaps installing a small collector with a vent in
it, to prevent drawing a vacuum on the crankcase. I'm not sure how the
Lycoming would react with negative pressure in the crankcase.
Just .02
Steve DiNieri
N221rv
N231rv
N411rv in progress
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Aircraft
Technical Book Company
Subject: RV-List: oil breather ideas
When I built my 6A , an experienced A&P suggested that I weld a
stainless
pipe into the exhaust pipe, and then run the oil breather tube into the
pipe. The idea was that oil from the breather port drain into the
exhaust
pipe and burn up with the hot exhaust gasses in the pipe thus keeping
the
belly nice and clean.
After a couple hundred hours, I don't think it works very well. Add to
that another person who today suggested that the inlet to the exhaust is
welded too far from the tip of the pipe (about 15"). He said that far
upstream, high pressures inside the pipe are creating backpressures into
the
breather tube, pressurizing the engine and causing oil seepage from all
around the engine. (another annoying problem from the beginning). He
said
to be effective the drain pipe must insert into the exhaust pipe no more
than 2-3" from the tip. (by which point the exhaust gasses are cooler
still
and even less likely to burn up and oil fumes, negating further the
benefit
of a nice clean belly.
So, unless someone here can enlighten me with some forgotten pearl of
wisdom, I'm going to cut off the drain pipe, weld up the hole in the
tail
pipe, and put in some more conventional breather system.
To that end, looking through the Aircraft Spruce catalog, I see 8
different
air-oil separators from $40 to $400. Can anybody recommend or speak
about
any of them. One called a Slime Fighter is claimed to be popular on
RVs,
but from the picture of it, I don't see how it works or where it
deposits
the oil. Others talk about a catch can that fills with oil and needs to
be
drained periodically. How periodically?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Re:oil breather ideas |
Ditto on both my planes and seen on countless others. I don't know if I'd
be too excited about actually porting it into the exhaust, who knows - you
could go from a decent vaccum to actual pressure....neither of which are
good on that side of the engine.
Typical old school way of doing this (trick I stole from the ole' experts
that know way more than me) was to just point the breather tip (using a
short piece of aluminum or other metal tube) very close to the actual
exhaust pipe (amaing rearwards of course). Any "spillage" or seepage of oil
then just burns off. I have one Lyc with an inverted system on it and one
without, both have the breathers plumbed this way, and both have clean
bellies (except when I pump too much smoke oil through it:)
Also, don't forget to drill a weep hole somewhere in your breather system in
case of blockage.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re:oil breather ideas
I ran the breather tube down to the exhaust pipe and aimed the end of it at
the pipe to within about 1/4". This was near the end of the pipe at the
firewall.
This has worked well for both of our RV-4's.
The oil drips onto the outside of the pipe and burns away into the
slipstream.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Riveting while pregnant? (not processed: message from |
valid local sender)
I am not a doctor but physics alone dictates that noise being vibrations in
the air will be transmitted to the child. Whether this can harm the child or
not, I can't say - but I would not take the risk, riveting can get into
pretty high decibels.
Anyway, she can help you do lots of other things besides holding the bucking
bar. And she will be grateful that you should be so concerned as to the
wellbeing of your forthcoming new member of the family.
Michle
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Johnson
> Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2005 2:40 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv7and7a(at)yahoogroups.com; socal-
> rvlist(at)yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: Riveting while pregnant? (not processed: message from
> valid local sender)
>
>
> Okay, weird question... my wife is 21 weeks pregnant. Is it okay for her
> to help me in riveting the wings? I could not find any information on
> the internet if the noise or vibrations would hurt the baby... anyone have
> some advice? someone on this list must be an OB or Doctor or
> asked this question before...
>
> - Matt
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Throttle / exhaust clearance |
Thanks to all for the input. BTW, I'll be off line for 2-3 weeks for a
training event.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | oil breather ideas |
| From: | "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com> |
Andy,I bought an M20 air/oil separator and installed in on the O360 in my Mooney. It is installed with a Y welded into the #4 cyl oil return tube as per the instructions. I am not sure it is working properly, because I still get some oil out of the vent line. I have not uninstalled it, but have returned to the procedure of keeping the oil level at 6 quarts, and that seems to work to minimize the oil on the belly. I have two fellow RVers that made their own units, and seem to be pleased with them. Ken DominyRV8 in progress--- On Sun 08/07, Aircraft Technical Book Company winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com wrote:From: Aircraft Technical Book Company [mailto: winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com]To: rv-list(at)matronics.comDate: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 17:24:33 -0600Subject: RV-List: oil breather ideas-- RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" When I built my 6A , an experienced AP suggested that I weld a stainless pipe into the exhaust pipe, and then run the oil
breather tube into the pipe. The idea was that oil from the breather port drain
into the exhaust pipe and burn up with the hot exhaust gasses in the pipe thus
keeping the belly nice and clean.After a couple hundred hours, I don't think
it works very well. Add to that another person who today suggested that the inlet
to the exhaust is welded too far from the tip of the pipe (about 15"). He
said that far upstream, high pressures inside the pipe are creating backpressures
into the breather tube, pressurizing the engine and causing oil seepage from
all around the engine. (another annoying problem from the beginning). He said
to be effective the drain pipe must insert into the exhaust pipe no more than
2-3" from the tip. (by which point the exhaust gasses are cooler still and
even less likely to burn up and oil fumes, negating further the benefit of a
nice clean belly.So, unless someone here can enlighten me with some forgotten
pearl of wisdom, I'm going to cut off the drain pipe,
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out |
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
This is one of those cases where the problem (?) is too many options!
Anyone have any comments on the BMA EFIS Light with autopilot?
Paul Valovich
Booger
RV-8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 wings wanted |
| From: | "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall(at)enid.org> |
We are looking for a pair of RV-8 wings, does anyone have a pair they would like
to sell or do you know of anyone that might?
Thanks,
Stephanie
www.rv-8a.4t.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Canopy Stop |
I like the Bill Davis plunger. I had not seen the cam stop but I see some
possible problems. To get the thing to catch you have to slide the canopy
aft past the catch slide it forward and reverse direction before the cam
falls off the front of the catch. The plunger is positive and allows me to
open the canopy as I pull off the runway and slide it open without all that
looking to see were the cam is. A benefit on summer so-cal days. If I have
a simple passenger that can't remember what I told them on preflight I can
pull the plunger out and lock it open with a piece of cut rubber tubing.
I'm not sure I'd call the cam devise is an "upgrade". But what ever works.
Rich Crosley
N948RC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
That's not just a loaded question, it's a double barrel shotgun. :-) Depends on
what your mission profile looks like. For IFR I wouldn't do it. For VFR, you
could do much worse. I'm still looking at a G3 Lite for a backup instrument
in my IFR -10. Either way I would do TruTrak or Trio for autopilot.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing ribs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul
Subject: RV-List: EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out
This is one of those cases where the problem (?) is too many options!
Anyone have any comments on the BMA EFIS Light with autopilot?
Paul Valovich
Booger
RV-8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | RV-6A: Riveting ribs to main spar |
I want to verify something.
Some of the ribs rivet to the main spar in areas where you can't get
to front side of the spar (because the spar has two webs in the
rootmost area of the wing). I presume I'm supposed to use pulled
rivets in these locations. I don't see how else I'm supposed to do it.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Jacko" <vicwj(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil breather ideas |
Mark, I have the same separator but without the mods. Where on the engine
( Lyc 0-320) do you connect the drain off of the oil to return to the
crankcase?
Thanks,
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: oil breather ideas
>
> In a message dated 08/07/2005 5:29:20 PM Central Standard Time,
> winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com writes:
> To that end, looking through the Aircraft Spruce catalog, I see 8
> different
> air-oil separators from $40 to $400. Can anybody recommend or speak about
> any of them.
>>>>>
>
> Take a look at:
>
> http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5172
>
> and click on "next entry>>" at top of page for next three entries. You
> can
> also click on the fotos for bit better foto. This has worked great on my
> plane
> for 215 hours so far...
>
> Mark Phillips
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Plexiglass repair |
Last night I broke off a small piece of my canopy. The piece is from the
left bottom forward most 90 degree edge of the canopy. The chard that broke
off is about 1.5" x 0.5" and luckily I found the piece and it fits perfectly
back onto the canopy. Half of it will be covered by the canopy skirt, so
most of the repair won't even be visible. I have a couple questions about
repairing this. I have read several posts that claim that Weld-On 3 is the
best product to use for this type of repair. Can anyone advise as to how
well this product will do for gluing a small piece back on? Second, if I do
use this does anyone have any recommendations on how to hold the piece in
place while the glue is curing? I was thinking that I could use a clamp,
but would have to clamp the top half of the piece and only glue he bottom
half of the piece. Then I could come back a day or two later and glue the
top half where the clamp was previously. I am just afraid that the clamp
would get glued into place. ANY advice is GREATLY appreciated!
Travis
RV-7A finishing the finishing kit!
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A: Riveting ribs to main spar |
Me too. Mine's been holding up ok for the past 10 years (eight flying)
Denis Walsh
On Aug 8, 2005, at 9:25 AM, Joseph Larson wrote:
>
> I want to verify something.
>
> Some of the ribs rivet to the main spar in areas where you can't get
> to front side of the spar (because the spar has two webs in the
> rootmost area of the wing). I presume I'm supposed to use pulled
> rivets in these locations. I don't see how else I'm supposed to do
> it.
>
> -Joe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Plexiglass repair |
Travis,
Here is a reference to a company that sells various plastic supplies and
their reference chart to Weldon plastic cements. It would appear that some
of these are fast-acting enough that you could hold the piece in place with
your hands until it was strong enough to release.
Terry
http://www.rplastics.com/weldonguide.html
Last night I broke off a small piece of my canopy. The piece is from the
left bottom forward most 90 degree edge of the canopy. The chard that broke
off is about 1.5" x 0.5" and luckily I found the piece and it fits perfectly
back onto the canopy. Half of it will be covered by the canopy skirt, so
most of the repair won't even be visible. I have a couple questions about
repairing this. I have read several posts that claim that Weld-On 3 is the
best product to use for this type of repair. Can anyone advise as to how
well this product will do for gluing a small piece back on? Second, if I do
use this does anyone have any recommendations on how to hold the piece in
place while the glue is curing? I was thinking that I could use a clamp,
but would have to clamp the top half of the piece and only glue he bottom
half of the piece. Then I could come back a day or two later and glue the
top half where the clamp was previously. I am just afraid that the clamp
would get glued into place. ANY advice is GREATLY appreciated!
Travis
RV-7A finishing the finishing kit!
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexiglass repair |
Weld-on-3 is Mythelenecloride (spelling) which actually melts the parts
back together. In your case it is best applied with a very fine tip needle.
Anywhere this stuff touches the plastic it will melt slightly. Since
Weld-on 3 is so thin it runs very easy, so maybe after bonding the piece
back in place you might want to get one of those scratch kits and buff out
any smudges. Everything you need is available at you local plastics shop.
>
>Last night I broke off a small piece of my canopy. The piece is from the
>left bottom forward most 90 degree edge of the canopy. The chard that broke
>off is about 1.5" x 0.5" and luckily I found the piece and it fits perfectly
>back onto the canopy. Half of it will be covered by the canopy skirt, so
>most of the repair won't even be visible. I have a couple questions about
>repairing this. I have read several posts that claim that Weld-On 3 is the
>best product to use for this type of repair. Can anyone advise as to how
>well this product will do for gluing a small piece back on? Second, if I do
>use this does anyone have any recommendations on how to hold the piece in
>place while the glue is curing? I was thinking that I could use a clamp,
>but would have to clamp the top half of the piece and only glue he bottom
>half of the piece. Then I could come back a day or two later and glue the
>top half where the clamp was previously. I am just afraid that the clamp
>would get glued into place. ANY advice is GREATLY appreciated!
>
>Travis
>RV-7A finishing the finishing kit!
>
>--
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marty" <martorious(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 0-320-H2AD on Ebay |
Found this while browsing, any 9 builders out there take a look.
Don't know anything about it, except there it is.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lycoming-Engine-0-320_W0QQcmdZViewItemQ
QcategoryZ26437QQitemZ4566985098QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
if the link breaks, just search for item number 4566985098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Canopy Stop |
Mickey Coggins, Hello. I am an RV-8 builder in Washington State. I have used
your web sight several times. Question, what wheel pants brackets are you
using? I have the same Grove gear as you. (Sam James wheel pants.) Great web
sight, thanks in advance for your time.
Jim Bowen
RV-8 QB
81786
>From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Stop
>Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 12:53:07 -0400
>
>
>Here's the link: http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/rv8-latch.html I
>don't use a latch, I have no problem reaching back to the canopy when
>flying
>solo and don't want to have to fool with a latch when I have someone in the
>back.
>Jim
>
>Jim Cimino
>N7TL
>RV-8 S/N 80039
>150+ Hours
>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 Canopy Stop
>
>
> >
> > Hi Richard,
> >
> > I used to use the plunger, but I just upgraded to a
> > different system, which I feel is much better.
> > Here is a link to some photos. You should probably
> > buy one of these, and give the plunger to your
> > friend. If for some reason he *really* wants the
> > plunger, and you also keep yours, I'll be happy to
> > send mine to him. Just send me an address.
> >
> > http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 0508071814513
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Mickey
> >
> >
> > Richard Crosley wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> I purchased a very neat little plunger device to holds the canopy
> >> have way open when flying solo. A fellow RV8 driver asked me where I
> >> got it so he could buy one and I can't locate any info in all my
> >> junk. Does anyone have a source? It's the spring loaded plunger
> >> that bolts to the canopy rail.
> >>
> >> Rich Crosley N948RC
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> > Mickey Coggins
> > http://www.rv8.ch/
> > #82007 finishing
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marty" <martorious(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 wings wanted |
Keep an eye on www.barnstormers.com, they occasionally have kits and
parts for sale. On the left hand side click on Experimental, then
down near the bottom is Vans RV's.
You guys must be busy, you haven't had time to update your site
lately.
Keep pounding those rivets!
Marty in Indiana
RV-8A preview plans in hand, itching to build.
|-----Original Message-----
|From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
|server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephanie Marshall
|Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 9:25 AM
|To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
|Subject: RV-List: RV-8 wings wanted
|
|
|
|We are looking for a pair of RV-8 wings, does anyone have a pair they
|would like to sell or do you know of anyone that might?
|
|Thanks,
|Stephanie
|www.rv-8a.4t.com
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A: Riveting ribs to main spar |
In a message dated 8/8/05 10:26:46 AM Central Daylight Time, jpl(at)showpage.org
writes:
> I presume I'm supposed to use pulled
> rivets in these locations. I don't see how else I'm supposed to do it.
>>>>
Hi Joe-
See dwg. 20, upper left section with note under "TOP VIEWS (SECTION)" where
it calls out LP4-3 rivets at the stations for these ribs. Sometimes the harder
ya look at these things, the harder it is to find stuff- hope the newer kits
are better...
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: oil breather ideas |
In a message dated 8/8/05 10:27:55 AM Central Daylight Time,
vicwj(at)earthlink.net writes:
> do you connect the drain off of the oil to return to the
> crankcase?
>>>>
Returning the oil to the crankcase has been debated here quite a bit- general
consensus is to NOT allow this oil back in- it is contaminated with lots of
nastiness such as acids that are rejected by our engines via the vent- see:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5173
The length of rubber hose (3/8", IIRC) connects to the small tube welded to
the bottom of the separator. The brass drain cock on the end of the rubber
hose in the foto is used to drain at oil changes- I usually get about 2 or 3 tbsp
of rejected lubricant, barely enough to fill the drain hose. Go to:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5174
to see where it is strapped to the bottom of the engine mount tube under the
oil filter. I've never seen any water in this oil, so it is obviously passing
out the separator exit tube as vapor. At 200 hours I inspected the pot
scrubbers to see if they were getting any clogs, but they looked good as new, just
oily. Also see:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5261
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: oil breather ideas |
As another data point I'll add that on my low-compression O-320 (E3D) that I
normally add oil only after the level passes the 6 qt mark, and never fill
above 7, and I have never had to add more than one quart between 45-50 hour oil
changes. The engine has about 1070 TT with new rings & bearings installed at
about 850 hours (before I got it) and I keep the oil temps between 180-185
degrees as indicated on my EIS4000 monitor. Using Phillips XC 20W50 & Champion
spin-on filter...
(I'm theorizing that higher compression/higher time engines may generate more
blow-by)
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
I'm pretty sure Van's current heatshields are stainless @ $11 each (!)... I
went to the AV dept. at Target and bought some inexpensive stainless
cookware, which provides enough material to make any number of them. NAPA or
HD
provide the clamps. It would help if you have a small metal brake like the ones
Harbor Freight sells.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
In a message dated 8/8/2005 12:03:38 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Throttle / exhaust clearance
The heat shields I got from Van's are aluminum.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A: Riveting ribs to main spar |
Thanks, guys. It just seemed wrong to use pop rivets, and I'm still
getting back into the swing of building after almost a 4-year break
due to moving then building a new garage AKA hangar to build the
plane in.
-Joe
On Aug 8, 2005, at 11:52 AM, Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 8/8/05 10:26:46 AM Central Daylight Time,
> jpl(at)showpage.org
> writes:
>
>
>> I presume I'm supposed to use pulled
>> rivets in these locations. I don't see how else I'm supposed to
>> do it.
>>
>
>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>
> Hi Joe-
>
> See dwg. 20, upper left section with note under "TOP VIEWS
> (SECTION)" where
> it calls out LP4-3 rivets at the stations for these ribs.
> Sometimes the harder
> ya look at these things, the harder it is to find stuff- hope the
> newer kits
> are better...
>
> Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 wings wanted |
| From: | "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall(at)enid.org> |
You caught me!! Baron has been doing a lot of work during the day when I am at
work, so it is hard to get any photos except for the finished ones. grrrrrrrr..........
oh well on the bright side he is FLYING (in the air and with the
RV) :~)
I have some photos, I just haven't had time lately to get the site updated. Since
we just moved to Oklahoma last year this is our first full summer and I and
our two German Shepherds have all gotten some type of allergy. I have just been
having a HORRIBLE summer so the website has unfortunately taken a back seat
to all the other stuff.
Like the A/C that is leaking water into our master closet, I am going to have to
rip up the carpet and pad tonight there is so much water in there. Our landlord
hasn't gotten back to us on WHEN the repair guy is coming over, I can't wait
to own our very own house!!
We worked on the first rudder this weekend so I will have some good pictures of
that!
Cheers,
Stephanie
www.rv-8a.4t.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Marty
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 wings wanted
Keep an eye on www.barnstormers.com, they occasionally have kits and
parts for sale. On the left hand side click on Experimental, then
down near the bottom is Vans RV's.
You guys must be busy, you haven't had time to update your site
lately.
Keep pounding those rivets!
Marty in Indiana
RV-8A preview plans in hand, itching to build.
|-----Original Message-----
|From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
|server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephanie Marshall
|Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 9:25 AM
|To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
|Subject: RV-List: RV-8 wings wanted
|
|
|
|We are looking for a pair of RV-8 wings, does anyone have a pair they
|would like to sell or do you know of anyone that might?
|
|Thanks,
|Stephanie
|www.rv-8a.4t.com
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <n1cxo320(at)peoplepc.com> |
Denver TV reported an RV-8 at FNL (Fort Collins/Loveland, CO) down in a
field 1,500-ft off the runway with two aboard. One reported fatal, one in
serious condition. No idea of how it happened. Plane appeared in reasonable
shape on TV, on its belly, wings attached. Next shot showed it on a crane
being lifted onto a trailer for transport. I have no other info and only the
TV report, always open to question. TV reported passenger, son-in-law of
pilot was the fatality. Pilot in hospital.
Newspaper, Denver Post, reports today pilot's name was William F. Sheel.
Fatality was named Jay Schneider. Event happened about 9:15AM Sunday.
Sad, sad.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine hick up at a bad time |
There I was, flying at 1000'agl, 100' below the floor of Chicago's class B at night
over a very congested and dark suburb when I got my first engine hick up.
Once clear of the real low part of the class B, I started a climb with a decent
pull (less than 2 g's though) when she cough'd. Just a quick little cough
but it definitely got my attention. I quickly released the pressure and she
returned to running smoothly. . I put the b.p. on and flew very smoothly the
rest of the way, about 10 minutes. It never repeated. I was burning out of
the left tank which has a flop tube. It's never done that before in over 230
hours and I havent had a chance to check things out. Ive got an IO-360, dual
mags and a Bendix injector. I've done plenty of aerobatics and have never had
a problem.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine hick up at a bad time |
Hi Shemp,
Good to meet you at OSH.
I'm sure you've already eliminated these, but
here is what I would look at: Possible water in the fuel?
Did you fill up in your usual place? Any rain on
the aircraft lately?
What kind of filters do you run? The holes in the flop
tube pickup are quite a bit bigger than the regular pickup,
as you probably recall. More junk could get in there if
the fuel was dirty.
Those kinds of problems are not fun, particularly at night.
Best regards,
Mickey
> There I was, flying at 1000'agl, 100' below the floor of Chicago's
> class B at night over a very congested and dark suburb when I got my
> first engine hick up. Once clear of the real low part of the class
> B, I started a climb with a decent pull (less than 2 g's though)
> when she cough'd. Just a quick little cough but it definitely got my
> attention. I quickly released the pressure and she returned to
> running smoothly. . I put the b.p. on and flew very smoothly the
> rest of the way, about 10 minutes. It never repeated. I was burning
> out of the left tank which has a flop tube. It's never done that
> before in over 230 hours and I havent had a chance to check things
> out. Ive got an IO-360, dual mags and a Bendix injector. I've done
> plenty of aerobatics and have never had a problem.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 235 hours Chicago/Louisville
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine hick up at a bad time |
I have had this exact same attention getter. One little hick-up that lasted
maybe 2/10's of a second, and has never done it since. This was also on a
injected engine and at the time the OAT was 94F and I was climbing. Plane
has AFP injection with dual EI so I am sure it was fuel related.
>
>There I was, flying at 1000'agl, 100' below the floor of Chicago's class B
>at night over a very congested and dark suburb when I got my first engine
>hick up. Once clear of the real low part of the class B, I started a
>climb with a decent pull (less than 2 g's though) when she cough'd. Just
>a quick little cough but it definitely got my attention. I quickly
>released the pressure and she returned to running smoothly. . I put the
>b.p. on and flew very smoothly the rest of the way, about 10 minutes. It
>never repeated. I was burning out of the left tank which has a flop
>tube. It's never done that before in over 230 hours and I havent had a
>chance to check things out. Ive got an IO-360, dual mags and a Bendix
>injector. I've done plenty of aerobatics and have never had a problem.
>
>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>235 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine hick up at a bad time |
>
>
> There I was, flying at 1000'agl, 100' below the floor of Chicago's class B
> at night over a very congested and dark suburb when I got my first engine
> hick up. Once clear of the real low part of the class B, I started a
> climb with a decent pull (less than 2 g's though) when she cough'd. Just
> a quick little cough but it definitely got my attention. I quickly
> released the pressure and she returned to running smoothly. . I put the
> b.p. on and flew very smoothly the rest of the way, about 10 minutes. It
> never repeated. I was burning out of the left tank which has a flop tube.
> It's never done that before in over 230 hours and I havent had a chance to
> check things out. Ive got an IO-360, dual mags and a Bendix injector.
> I've done plenty of aerobatics and have never had a problem.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 235 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
Jeff, it could be that you were running right on the lean edge, and the
sudden extra g was just enough to reduce fuel flow to the lean misfire
point. The fuel has to travel a couple feet up from the servo to the
injectors, and the extra g's will reduce the flow slightly. It should be
relatively easy to try again, just set the mixture just at the point where
it wants to run rough, then pull some g's.
Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP 651 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Center bulkhead question |
autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.2
I should be recving my Ez pilot tomorrow, but my EZ-1 alt hold will not be comming
until sometime in Sept. since I have the plane apart from anual I want to
leave the /bagage comp bulkhead pannels off as dont care to put all the screws
back in then take them all out in a few weeks. Question is, anyone know of a
reason I should have them installed to fly?? Charlie heathco Boerne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Air Oil separator |
autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.2
Been following the coments re oil drip line placement and air/oil separators. I
think puting the drip line into the exaust is a bad idea, and when I was going
to put an oil air separator on my cherokee about a year ago, I asked for input
from cherokee pilots, and no one had anything good to say about any of the
brands, concensus was that they just dont work as advertized. charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Center bulkhead question |
Since there may be some rigidity due to its presence
I would reinstall it and put several screws in strategic places.
This also ensures that nothing that jam that critical pitch linkage.
It only takes a few minutes to do this.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Center bulkhead question |
I believe that panel is structural.
Dave -6 So Cal
charlie heathco wrote:
>
>I should be recving my Ez pilot tomorrow, but my EZ-1 alt hold will not be comming
until sometime in Sept. since I have the plane apart from anual I want to
leave the /bagage comp bulkhead pannels off as dont care to put all the screws
back in then take them all out in a few weeks. Question is, anyone know of a
reason I should have them installed to fly?? Charlie heathco Boerne
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Center bulkhead question |
Charlie: I don't think that panel is strictly structural, but it is all that's
between your elevator bellcrank and whatever loose objects might be floating
around in your cockpit during maneuvers. Put it back in using every third screw
and be safe(r). Besides, your shoulder belts won't be properly supported without
it.
-Bill B
also awaiting Trio EZ Pilot from SafeAir1 this week :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: charlie heathco <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Center bulkhead question
I should be recving my Ez pilot tomorrow, but my EZ-1 alt hold will not be
comming until sometime in Sept. since I have the plane apart from anual I want
to leave the /bagage comp bulkhead pannels off as dont care to put all the
screws back in then take them all out in a few weeks. Question is, anyone know
of a reason I should have them installed to fly?? Charlie heathco Boerne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Center bulkhead question |
in the -6 manual it does say it is structural. I would not fly without it.
Not sure about leaving some screws out.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: sportav8r(at)aol.com
Date: 08/08/05 18:14:54
Subject: Re: RV-List: Center bulkhead question
Charlie: I don't think that panel is strictly structural, but it is all
that's between your elevator bellcrank and whatever loose objects might be
floating around in your cockpit during maneuvers. Put it back in using
every third screw and be safe(r). Besides, your shoulder belts won't be
properly supported without it.
-Bill B
also awaiting Trio EZ Pilot from SafeAir1 this week :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: charlie heathco <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Center bulkhead question
I should be recving my Ez pilot tomorrow, but my EZ-1 alt hold will not be
comming until sometime in Sept. since I have the plane apart from anual I
want
to leave the /bagage comp bulkhead pannels off as dont care to put all the
screws back in then take them all out in a few weeks. Question is, anyone
know
of a reason I should have them installed to fly?? Charlie heathco Boerne
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Center bulkhead question |
As I recall Van's instruction book said not to fly without the baggage
bulkhead installed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Air Oil Separator |
I have have done some limited experimentation with a homemade air/oil separator
on my 8A. I think the critical thing may be the volume of the container. I
think it needs to be big enough for the vapors to swirl around inside, with a
contact media for the oil to condense onto. The other critical point is that
both hoses need to be 5/8 inch to ensure breathing without excess velocity.
I made one recently that appears to be doing its job so far. I used a 30 oz. square
shaped glass jar with a metal screw on lid. It's actually a Martha Stewart
food storage jar. I know, no glass FWF. It's padded and strapped down.
I like the glass cause I can readily see how much oil has collected in it. I
don't really want the condensed blow by oil returning to the sump.
I simply put fittings for 5/8 inch hose into the lid. Ran the breather hose down
into the jar to about 1 in. from the bottom. Put the metal mesh from a stove
top ventilation filter in the jar in a circular pattern so the breather hose
goes into the center of it. The second fitting has a hose running from the
top of the jar to exit onto the last 2-3 inches of the exhaust pipe. The end
of the hose is less than a 1/4 inch from the pipe.
The jar is collecting oil and my A/C belly seems to be cleaner. Note that I said
"cleaner" not "clean". I don't think any air/oil separator is going to keep
the belly 100% clean. I have not personally seen any A/C belly that doesn't
get some exhaust stains on it. There's more to what's on the belly than just
breather vapors. Nor have I found a way to fully burn what comes out of the
hose at the exhaust. The air exiting from the cowl takes the droplets of oil
before the exhaust pipe can burn them. The air oil separator seems to decrease
the amount of oil going out to the exhaust end so less oil goes onto the belly.
FWIW.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Oil separator |
Received-SPF: none
I have a separator on my RV-8 (M-20) and it works great. I only add about a
quart of oil between changes and have almost nothing on the belly of the
plane. I clean it off once a year and there is almost nothing there. I
have heard all the problems with separators, but I like mine. I have the
drain mounted between the two exhaust pipes.
Jim
Jim Cimino
N7TL
RV-8 S/N 80039
150+ Hours
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Air Oil separator
>
> Been following the coments re oil drip line placement and air/oil
> separators. I think puting the drip line into the exaust is a bad idea,
> and when I was going to put an oil air separator on my cherokee about a
> year ago, I asked for input from cherokee pilots, and no one had anything
> good to say about any of the brands, concensus was that they just dont
> work as advertized. charlie heathco
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Randy Simpson at Airtime |
In a message dated 8/7/05 6:54:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dsvs(at)comcast.net
writes:
> Snip>>Randy sent me an e-mail last Friday evening minutes after I sent out
> the
> final question about where he could be.>>Snip
>
> Now that it appears that Randy is alive and well I would sure like to buy a
> set of his Ti tie downs. If you get an answer please post it to the list. I
> suspect that there are a lot of potential buyers out here waiting to see
> .
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 115 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Center bulkhead question |
Hello,
The several horizontal V shaped bends are there to add considerable rigidity
to the second of only two solidly closed off "structural" bulkheads in the
hull, the other being the firewall.
The baggage area bulkhead is required along with all of it's screws
tightened in place if any flight is intended.
Some might think the openings at the ends of the bulkhead's V shapes are
there for ventilation!?. That function might be of benefit or not but it is
not the primary reason for their existence.
Structurally speaking, without the bulkhead the fuselage is considerably
weakened . Think of the lower half of the mid point of the hull as a box
without its ends, it can be collapsed under torsion very easilly.
I'm certain that Vans will tell any that will listen "Put it in, tighten it
up or don't fly the plane".
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rquinn1(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Center bulkhead question
>
> As I recall Van's instruction book said not to fly without the baggage
> bulkhead installed.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air Oil separator |
I bought my air oil separator from Wick's. Sorry I can't give you the part
number, I'm at home and my Wicks catalog is at my hangar. It looks very much
like an M-20 or Air Wolf style but is experimental. When I bought mine it was
about $60 but the last catalog I checked showed it around $90, still a lot
less that the certified units and it works great so far, nothing but exhaust
stains on the belly. It is filled with aluminum sponge. I have a 12 inch long
piece of 3/8 I.D. vinyl tube with a plug in the bottom to catch the liquid goop,
oil and whatever, and I empty that tube at every 25 hour oil change. I plan
to install a larger receptacle as soon as I find the right thing. Currently
considering a lexan brake fluid reservoir.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 115 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Gunn" <WGUNN(at)dot.state.tx.us> |
I had an interesting conversation with a Lycoming engineer several years ago. Q:
why does a full (8 quarts in most 4 cylinder engines, 12 quarts in most 6 cylinder
engines) sump either burn or blow out oil? Why mark the dip stick to a
quantity that will not remain in the engine? Is there any harm is running less
oil in the sump on a routine basis? Answer: regulations !
Look at the FAA certification of piston engines - FAR 33.39 (a) "Lubrication
system. The lubrication system of the engine must be designed and constructed
so that it will function properly in all flight attitudes and atmospheric conditions
in which the airplane is expected to operate. In wet sump engines, this
requirement must be met when only one-half of the maximum lubricant supply is
in the engine."
It is this one-half comment that has caused most air cooled / oil cooled engine,
for any manufacturer, to mark the dip stick to an excess quantity for normal
use so that this amount rule will meet certification for any given certified
aircraft installation. RVs have an excellently designed cooling plenum, so they
tend to keep the oil and cylinder heads well within limits.
Bottom line - you can operate any 320 or 360 Lycoming engine one to two quarts
below the marked full limit. As long as the temperature stays below 245 * F and
the pressure is steady, 6 quarts in a four cylinder engine is adequate to do
the other functions - cushion, clean, protect, etc.
Bill Gunn
RV 4
1700 hours and counting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Bulkhead Resposes |
autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.2
Thanks for all the input, I should have thought it thru better. I will reinstall
with all screws. Thanks a lot, Charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BELTEDAIR(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Engine hick up at a bad time |
Tom, read the second message of this
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out |
Paul,
You might also want to post you question to the BMA Discussion Group on the
BMA website: http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/talk/
My "Lite G3" is due to arrive Wednesday but I went with a DigiTrak
autopilot.
Good Luck,
Bob
On 8/8/05, Valovich, Paul wrote:
>
>
> This is one of those cases where the problem (?) is too many options!
>
>
> Anyone have any comments on the BMA EFIS Light with autopilot?
>
>
> Paul Valovich
>
> Booger
>
> RV-8A QB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Center bulkhead question |
Yes,
The baggage wall bulkheads are structural and provide anti-twisting support
for the fuselage.
Mike Robertson
>From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Center bulkhead question
>Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2005 19:22:26 -0500 autolearn=unavailable
>version=3.0.2
>
>
>I should be recving my Ez pilot tomorrow, but my EZ-1 alt hold will not be
>comming until sometime in Sept. since I have the plane apart from anual I
>want to leave the /bagage comp bulkhead pannels off as dont care to put all
>the screws back in then take them all out in a few weeks. Question is,
>anyone know of a reason I should have them installed to fly?? Charlie
>heathco Boerne
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larry morgan" <lmorgan822(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine hick up at a bad time |
Jess, I couldn't open it.
>From: BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine hick up at a bad time
>Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 09:52:50 EDT
>
>
>Tom, read the second message of this
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: EFIS Options (new offering from Blue Mountain) |
| From: | "Condon,Philip M." <PCONDON(at)mitre.org> |
http://bluemountainavionics.com/elitemain.php
Price competitive with the Dynon now. Anyone have any information on the
Dynon new release in the EFIS area? (Not the Dynon engine management
offering)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EFIS Options - Still Trying to Figure It Out |
On 8/8/05, Valovich, Paul wrote:
>
>
> This is one of those cases where the problem (?) is too many options!
>
>
> Anyone have any comments on the BMA EFIS Light with autopilot?
>
>
> Paul Valovich
>
> Booger
>
> RV-8A QB
>
> I love my bluemountain EFIS Lite G3 and use it IFR but only with a backup
attitude indicator. I bought it to be an HSI primarily. They have worked out
pretty much all of the early bugs. I have several posts on the bluemountain
website.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Digest: EFIS Options (new offering from Blue |
Mountain)
Suggest you also check out Grand Rapids Technologies products.
They recently announced a new, low priced EFIS designed to go head to head with
the lower end Dynon/BMT units. Price for the sport is $2795 due out this fall.
http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
http://www.grtavionics.com/EFIS%20Flyer.pdf
There's a yahoo users group at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
Suggest you also check out Grand Rapids Technologies products.
They recently announced a new, low priced EFIS designed to go head to head with
the lower end Dynon/BMT units. Price for the sport is $2795 due out this fall.
http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
http://www.grtavionics.com/EFIS%20Flyer.pdf
There's a yahoo users group at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 08/08/05 |
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Center bulkhead question
Hello,
I'm certain that Vans will tell any that will listen "Put it
in, tighten it
up or don't fly the plane".
Jim in Kelowna
Jim,
Does this also apply to the RV-8 rear baggage compartment
panel? I thought I had seen modifications allowing golf
clubs, etc. that removed this panel. Was considering that
myself, but glad I saw this thread...
Thanks,
Scott Keadle
14A, Lake Norman Airpark, NC
N844RF RV-8
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine hick up at a bad time |
I was running full rich, but I dropped someone off after a 2 hour flight
just minutes before. She was definitely hot.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine hick up at a bad time
>
>
>
>>
>>
>> There I was, flying at 1000'agl, 100' below the floor of Chicago's class
>> B
>> at night over a very congested and dark suburb when I got my first engine
>> hick up. Once clear of the real low part of the class B, I started a
>> climb with a decent pull (less than 2 g's though) when she cough'd. Just
>> a quick little cough but it definitely got my attention. I quickly
>> released the pressure and she returned to running smoothly. . I put the
>> b.p. on and flew very smoothly the rest of the way, about 10 minutes. It
>> never repeated. I was burning out of the left tank which has a flop
>> tube.
>> It's never done that before in over 230 hours and I havent had a chance
>> to
>> check things out. Ive got an IO-360, dual mags and a Bendix injector.
>> I've done plenty of aerobatics and have never had a problem.
>>
>> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>> RV-6A, N915JD
>> 235 hours
>> Chicago/Louisville
>
> Jeff, it could be that you were running right on the lean edge, and the
> sudden extra g was just enough to reduce fuel flow to the lean misfire
> point. The fuel has to travel a couple feet up from the servo to the
> injectors, and the extra g's will reduce the flow slightly. It should be
> relatively easy to try again, just set the mixture just at the point where
> it wants to run rough, then pull some g's.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6A N66AP 651 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Oil separator |
Have you flown without it?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Oil separator
>
> I have a separator on my RV-8 (M-20) and it works great. I only add about
> a
> quart of oil between changes and have almost nothing on the belly of the
> plane. I clean it off once a year and there is almost nothing there. I
> have heard all the problems with separators, but I like mine. I have the
> drain mounted between the two exhaust pipes.
> Jim
> Jim Cimino
> N7TL
> RV-8 S/N 80039
> 150+ Hours
> http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Air Oil separator
>
>
>>
>> Been following the coments re oil drip line placement and air/oil
>> separators. I think puting the drip line into the exaust is a bad idea,
>> and when I was going to put an oil air separator on my cherokee about a
>> year ago, I asked for input from cherokee pilots, and no one had anything
>> good to say about any of the brands, concensus was that they just dont
>> work as advertized. charlie heathco
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Loflin" <loflinj(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin Install Kits For Sale |
I have a GNS480 (formerly UPSAT CNX-80) and a SL30 install kit for sale. You
pay only what I pay which was $570 for the GNS480 kit and $150 for the SL30
kit. Both install kits were purchased from John Stark in January of last
year. Neither kit has been installed. They are still in the box I got from
John when I bought them. The SL30 kit has not been wired, but the GNS480
rack was wired by Stark Avionics. Complete with an external CDI and
everything.
Please call/e-mail for any additional information. Price is firm, but there
is wiggle room. I can send pictures if needed. Have original invoice if
you'd like to see that as well.
Thanks!
Jack Loflin
Corvallis, Oregon
541-745-5059 (home)
541-908-4104 (cell)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Oil Separator |
jim & terri truitt wrote:
>
>I have have done some limited experimentation with a homemade air/oil separator
on my 8A. I think the critical thing may be the volume of the container. I
think it needs to be big enough for the vapors to swirl around inside, with a
contact media for the oil to condense onto. The other critical point is that
both hoses need to be 5/8 inch to ensure breathing without excess velocity.
>
I always thought the idea was the "spin" the oil out of the air using
something that looks like this. . .
http://www.thewishzone.com/cdw/AirOilSeparator/
--
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | RV-8 wings wanted |
Stephanie,
Just a word of caution.
RV8 wings are matched to the 804 bulkheads. If you get a set of wings then
you should also get the corresponding 804 pieces - two large gold anodized
cross members and four stamped ribs. On my 8, and I believe on all 8s, spars
have a serial number which is also engraved on the 804 pieces, that's
because they are factory matched drilled to each other. If you get wings
without the matching 804 you might not be able to bolt the wings onto your
airframe.
Michele
RV8 fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stephanie Marshall
> Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 4:25 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-8 wings wanted
>
>
> We are looking for a pair of RV-8 wings, does anyone have a pair they
> would like to sell or do you know of anyone that might?
>
> Thanks,
> Stephanie
> www.rv-8a.4t.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Digest: EFIS Options (new offering from Blue |
Mountain)
Not exactly "head to head" . . . I purchased the BMA Lite because it does
more . . . especially than the Dynon . . . but also more than the GRT Sport
. . . my specific need / desire was the HSI Function that the BMA Lite has .
. . I don't have it yet but others seem happy with this function . . . also
the BMA Lite includes an internal GPS that will serve as a back-up in my
case, but it will be nice to have that as well.
Good Luck,
Bob
On 8/9/05, lucky wrote:
>
>
> Suggest you also check out Grand Rapids Technologies products.
> They recently announced a new, low priced EFIS designed to go head to head
> with the lower end Dynon/BMT units. Price for the sport is $2795 due out
> this fall.
> http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
> http://www.grtavionics.com/EFIS%20Flyer.pdf
> There's a yahoo users group at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
>
>
> Suggest you also check out Grand Rapids Technologies products.
>
>
> They recently announced a new, low priced EFIS designed to go head to head
> with the lower end Dynon/BMT units. Price for the sport is $2795 due out
> this fall.
>
>
> http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
>
>
> http://www.grtavionics.com/EFIS%20Flyer.pdf
>
>
> There's a yahoo users group at:
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: RV-List Digest: EFIS Options (new offering from Blue |
Mountain)
Not exactly "head to head" . . . I purchased the BMA Lite because it does
more . . . especially than the Dynon . . . but also more than the GRT Sport
. . . my specific need / desire was the HSI Function that the BMA Lite has .
. . I don't have it yet but others seem happy with this function . . . also
the BMA Lite includes an internal GPS that will serve as a back-up in my
case, but it will be nice to have that as well.
Good Luck,
Bob
On 8/9/05, lucky wrote:
>
>
> Suggest you also check out Grand Rapids Technologies products.
> They recently announced a new, low priced EFIS designed to go head to head
> with the lower end Dynon/BMT units. Price for the sport is $2795 due out
> this fall.
> http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
> http://www.grtavionics.com/EFIS%20Flyer.pdf
> There's a yahoo users group at:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
>
>
> Suggest you also check out Grand Rapids Technologies products.
>
>
> They recently announced a new, low priced EFIS designed to go head to head
> with the lower end Dynon/BMT units. Price for the sport is $2795 due out
> this fall.
>
>
> http://www.grtavionics.com/sport.htm
>
>
> http://www.grtavionics.com/EFIS%20Flyer.pdf
>
>
> There's a yahoo users group at:
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Annual inspection question - magneto points |
Listers,
I am updating my annual inspection checklist for my RV-6A. I have a Lycoming
O-320 with Slick magnetos. Should these magnetos be pulled off the airplane
every annual for inspection of the points, gapping, etc or is it acceptable
just to check/reset the timing? I know that the mags are due for an overhaul
at 500 hours.
Stephen Soule
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flynlow" <flynlow(at)usaviator.net> |
Ladies and Gentlemen;
I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first build
and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the initials
and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is talking about.
Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT, OAT, AFP,
etc......
Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that are not
quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but for me
at least it would be a help.
Thanks
Bud Silvers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com> |
I know it must be bewildering for a "stick and rudder" guy Bud. Wait until you
find out just how much is available for your RV in the way of equipment. That
is what most of those acronyms are regarding, and there are lots of decisions
to be made. Of course, they all cost $$$. Good luck, and welcome to the "money
sink."--- On Tue 08/09, flynlow flynlow(at)usaviator.net wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Bud;
You may have to just read the list for awhile,like we other "Old Pharts" ,in
order to learn the language. I've been lurking for years and have finally
learned some of it. Most of it is avionics stuff which we aren't interested
in anyway. That is ; gadgets which aren't really needed but satisfy a
yearning for those with too many bucks to spend. I just can't comprehend the
urge
to "Put a pack saddle on a race horse" like some of these young builders do
!!
Any way,hang in here, it is all worth while and very helpful.
Two time builder,
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
On 08/09 2:09, flynlow wrote:
> I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first build
> and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the initials
> and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is talking about.
> Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT, OAT, AFP,
> etc......
>
> Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that are not
> quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but for me
> at least it would be a help.
FYI (For Your Information)
Do a google search for the acronyms.
You really don't know what OAT means?
(O)utstanding (A)cronym (T)ranslator
JK [Just Kidding]
LOL [Lots of Laughs]
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
I can help with some of these:
HSI: Horizontal Situation Indicator. It's a fancy attitude indicator
(AI). It combines your AI with the VOR display used with your NAV
radio. They tend to be expensive.
GRT: Grand Rapids Technologies. They make experimental avionics.
GNS480: This is a Garmin GPS / NAV / COM radio.
SL30: Another Garmin product, this time a NAV / COM raid.
EFIS: Electronic Flight Information System. Basically, it's one of
the pieces of glass in a glass cockpit panel.
BMT, BMA, AFP: I don't recognize these.
OAT: Outside Air Temperature.
You should expect folks to become used to some of these
abbreviations, just like you're used to terms such as VOR, VFR, IFR,
ILS, etc.
Using company abbreviations and product numbers without previously
identifying the companies in question is begging for folks to say
"what are you talking about?"
-Joe
On Aug 9, 2005, at 3:09 PM, flynlow wrote:
>
> Ladies and Gentlemen;
>
> I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first
> build
> and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the
> initials
> and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is talking
> about.
> Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT, OAT,
> AFP,
> etc......
>
> Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that
> are not
> quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but
> for me
> at least it would be a help.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bud Silvers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
I am not an old fart (well maybe depending on who you ask) but I feel you..
BMA= Blue Mountain Avionics =
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com
HSI= Horazontal speed indicator
GRT= Grand Rapids Technologies =
http://www.grtavionics.com/
GNS480= Garmins awesome gps nav/com model number =
http://www.garmin.com/products/gns480/
SL30= Garmin Radio model number =
http://www.garmin.com/products/sl30/
EFIS= Electronics flight information system = See above or dynon 10a =
http://www.dynonavionics.com/
EMS= Engine monitoring system , you will find some at the above sites
OAT= Outside Air temp
AFP= air flow performance fuel injection system (very good system)
http://www.airflowperformance.com/
Danny..
anyone else want to add to this list ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "flynlow" <flynlow(at)usaviator.net>
Subject: RV-List: Initials
>
> Ladies and Gentlemen;
>
> I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first build
> and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the
> initials
> and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is talking about.
> Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT, OAT, AFP,
> etc......
>
> Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that are
> not
> quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but for me
> at least it would be a help.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bud Silvers
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
refid=0001.0A090203.42F91B0A.0013-A-,
ip 9.107.238.85,
so 05-07-14 09:05:58,
dmn 05-05-20 17:56:59
flynlow wrote:
>
>Ladies and Gentlemen;
>
>I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first build
>and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the initials
>and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is talking about.
>Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT, OAT, AFP,
>etc......
>
>Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that are not
>quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but for me
>at least it would be a help.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bud Silvers
>
Hello Bud,
You're an old goat, not an old fart........ If I can learn all those abbreviations,
you will too. i'm probably older than you...
I found that usually if I didnt know the abbreviation, that it probably didnt mean
anything to me anyhow so I ignored it. I think sometime they used initials
so their wife and people with common sense wouldnt know how much it really cost..
BMA, I dunno
HSI, Horizontal Situation Indicator.... artificial horizon, Directional gyro, navigation
information and other stuff that I don't know what they are talking
about...
GRT, Dunno
GNS480, this is a Garmin unit that seems to be very much in demand
SL30,this is an Apollo Communication and Navigation set. (I have the cheaper SL40,
it works great)
EFIS, Electronic Flight Information System (these are directional gyro, artificial
Horizon, compass, airspeed, altimeter all rolled into one) DYNON is an example
BMT, dunno, think it is is in the above EFIS
OAT, outside air temperature
AFP, This is a fuel injection unit Air Flow Performance,(I have Bendix)
Welcome to this list, you are going to get an education here. Where are you at
and what are you building? Remember, for every hour you spend on this list, you
could have driven 225 rivits, or measured and marked 90 locations, or drilled
and dimpled 120 holes. There are 17,022 rivets in an RV6. Hmmmm...... are these
figures right?
Spend your time carefully on here.
Phil in Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alan_products <alan_products(at)blarg.net> |
| Subject: | cables and firewall eyeballs |
Maybe I'm goin' nuts (well, OK, let's just take that for granted...) but I couldn't
find any info regarding the size of firewall eyeballs required for Van's
control cables, nor the size holes required for the eyeballs. Spruce finally referred
me to the manufacturer of the eyeballs they sell; scoop follows.
First, eyeballs for your eyeballs:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw.php
- the TTP series takes a 1.115" hole, which, I'm told, you can knock into the firewall
using a 0.75" electrical conduit punch
- the SE961-B and -S series both take a 1.125" center hole and come with drill
templates for the [steel] mounting bolts
- the aluminum eyeballs (TTP and SE961-B) can be reamed to allow larger cables.
The SE961-S cannot be reamed over 0.260"
Now, unless I'm 'way off today, I measure my Van's quadrant cable diameters at
0.343". I haven't seen anyone talking about having to ream the holes in their
eyeballs for these cables, but it appears that many would have had to do so. Since
the SE961-S series can't be reamed above 0.260", it would appear that we
can't use the SE961-S steel eyeballs with these cables. So we're left with aluminum
eyeballs, TTP and SE961-B.
Question: did you buy .260" and ream to .343" (or something darned close) or just
buy .375", and if the latter is that nice 'n tight?
Just sorting this out for posterity so folks don't have to fiddle around on the
phones.... If something sounds wacky, please holler!
Alan Erickson
8A with all the fixins!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
On 8/9/05 3:11 PM, "Sportypilot" wrote:
> HSI= Horazontal speed indicator
Not familiar with this one. In the old days it meant Horizontal Situation
Indicator. An instrument that makes IFR (Instrument Flight Rules) flying
much easier.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cables and firewall eyeballs |
I had to ream my one-hole eyeballs to get my control cables to fit right.
Just do whatever works for you. See about 1/3 way down on this page:
http://www.rvproject.com/20030830.html
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (585 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "alan_products" <alan_products(at)blarg.net>
Subject: RV-List: cables and firewall eyeballs
>
> Maybe I'm goin' nuts (well, OK, let's just take that for granted...) but I
couldn't find any info regarding the size of firewall eyeballs required for
Van's control cables, nor the size holes required for the eyeballs. Spruce
finally referred me to the manufacturer of the eyeballs they sell; scoop
follows.
>
> First, eyeballs for your eyeballs:
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw.php
>
> - the TTP series takes a 1.115" hole, which, I'm told, you can knock into
the firewall using a 0.75" electrical conduit punch
>
> - the SE961-B and -S series both take a 1.125" center hole and come with
drill templates for the [steel] mounting bolts
>
> - the aluminum eyeballs (TTP and SE961-B) can be reamed to allow larger
cables. The SE961-S cannot be reamed over 0.260"
>
> Now, unless I'm 'way off today, I measure my Van's quadrant cable
diameters at 0.343". I haven't seen anyone talking about having to ream the
holes in their eyeballs for these cables, but it appears that many would
have had to do so. Since the SE961-S series can't be reamed above 0.260", it
would appear that we can't use the SE961-S steel eyeballs with these cables.
So we're left with aluminum eyeballs, TTP and SE961-B.
>
> Question: did you buy .260" and ream to .343" (or something darned close)
or just buy .375", and if the latter is that nice 'n tight?
>
> Just sorting this out for posterity so folks don't have to fiddle around
on the phones.... If something sounds wacky, please holler!
>
> Alan Erickson
> 8A with all the fixins!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Hood" <hoodcom(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming 0-360 A4M , RV-8 |
I have a friend who is building an 8. He is planning on installing a Lycoming
0-360 A4M. Is there anyone out there who has accomplished this task or has an
understanding of the complications, if any? Reply direct if you like.
thanks
bill hood hoodcom(at)sbcglobal.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
> > HSI= Horazontal speed indicator
>
>Not familiar with this one. In the old days it meant Horizontal Situation
>Indicator. An instrument that makes IFR (Instrument Flight Rules) flying
>much easier.
You may be right but when I read the text on HSI I just gave up. Don't
have one...don't need one...and may just accept wrong answers on the
test.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
I thought HSI ='d... Horizontal Situation Indicator... Haven't heard "speed" used...
Darrell
Sportypilot wrote:
I am not an old fart (well maybe depending on who you ask) but I feel you..
BMA= Blue Mountain Avionics =
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com
HSI= Horazontal speed indicator
GRT= Grand Rapids Technologies =
http://www.grtavionics.com/
GNS480= Garmins awesome gps nav/com model number =
http://www.garmin.com/products/gns480/
SL30= Garmin Radio model number =
http://www.garmin.com/products/sl30/
EFIS= Electronics flight information system = See above or dynon 10a =
http://www.dynonavionics.com/
EMS= Engine monitoring system , you will find some at the above sites
OAT= Outside Air temp
AFP= air flow performance fuel injection system (very good system)
http://www.airflowperformance.com/
Danny..
anyone else want to add to this list ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "flynlow"
Subject: RV-List: Initials
>
> Ladies and Gentlemen;
>
> I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first build
> and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the
> initials
> and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is talking about.
> Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT, OAT, AFP,
> etc......
>
> Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that are
> not
> quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but for me
> at least it would be a help.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bud Silvers
>
>
>
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
Bud,
You've already made the first step...asking a question by this list. I'm
almost an Old Fart myself and I know a lot of folks who think they are too
old to use a computer! So you are one step ahead by using your PC...oops,
personal computer.
As you build your RV, you will find this list and others invaluable in
providing answers to all kinds of questions, some asked by you and some
asked by others.
My favorite acronym is BLT
Give up?
Bacon, Lettuce and Tomato (sandwich) :
)
Hang in there!
Don Hull
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
Subject: Re: RV-List: Initials
On 08/09 2:09, flynlow wrote:
> I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my first build
> and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all the
initials > and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is
talking about. > Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS,
BMT, OAT, AFP, > etc...... >
> Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts that are
not > quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here, but
for me > at least it would be a help.
FYI (For Your Information)
Do a google search for the acronyms.
You really don't know what OAT means?
(O)utstanding (A)cronym (T)ranslator
JK [Just Kidding]
LOL [Lots of Laughs]
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Your correct Darrell
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com |
yeah I screwed that one up.. working nights :)
----- Original Message -----
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 9, 2005 5:13 pm
Subject: Re: RV-List: Initials
>
> I thought HSI ='d... Horizontal Situation Indicator... Haven't
> heard "speed" used...
>
> Darrell
>
> Sportypilot wrote:
>
> I am not an old fart (well maybe depending on who you ask) but I
> feel you..
>
> BMA= Blue Mountain Avionics =
> http://www.bluemountainavionics.com
> HSI= Horazontal speed indicator
> GRT= Grand Rapids Technologies =
> http://www.grtavionics.com/
> GNS480= Garmins awesome gps nav/com model number =
> http://www.garmin.com/products/gns480/
> SL30= Garmin Radio model number =
> http://www.garmin.com/products/sl30/
>
> EFIS= Electronics flight information system = See above or dynon
> 10a =
> http://www.dynonavionics.com/
> EMS= Engine monitoring system , you will find some at the above sites
> OAT= Outside Air temp
> AFP= air flow performance fuel injection system (very good system)
> http://www.airflowperformance.com/
>
>
> Danny..
>
> anyone else want to add to this list ?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "flynlow"
> To: "Rv-List@Matronics. Com"
> Subject: RV-List: Initials
>
>
> >
> > Ladies and Gentlemen;
> >
> > I have been flying since 1970. Mostly in antiques. This is my
> first build
> > and the first time on a list like this. I am bewildered by all
> the
> > initials
> > and frankly tired of trying to figure out what everyone is
> talking about.
> > Let me give you a few: BMA, HSI, GRT, GNS480, SL30, EFIS, BMT,
> OAT, AFP,
> > etc......
> >
> > Sure would be nice if folks would use english for us old farts
> that are
> > not
> > quite so up to date on all the initials. Maybe I am alone here,
> but for me
> > at least it would be a help.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Bud Silvers
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Darrell Reiley
> Round Rock, Texas
>
> RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
> N622DR (reserved)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
No one "needs" one. I've only flown with one once, and I really
liked it. I got back from that flight and checked prices, then
gulped and said, "Guess my RV isn't going to have one."
But now all the EFIS units have an HSI type of display, so I might
get one after all :-)
-Joe
On Aug 9, 2005, at 5:08 PM, Ron Lee wrote:
>
>
>>> HSI= Horazontal speed indicator
>>>
>>
>> Not familiar with this one. In the old days it meant Horizontal
>> Situation
>> Indicator. An instrument that makes IFR (Instrument Flight Rules)
>> flying
>> much easier.
>>
>
>
> You may be right but when I read the text on HSI I just gave up.
> Don't
> have one...don't need one...and may just accept wrong answers on the
> test.
>
> Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
> I had an interesting conversation with a Lycoming engineer several years
> ago. Q: why does a full (8 quarts in most 4 cylinder engines, 12 quarts in
> most 6 cylinder engines) sump either burn or blow out oil? Why mark the
> dip stick to a quantity that will not remain in the engine? Is there any
> harm is running less oil in the sump on a routine basis? Answer:
> regulations !
The regulations maybe explain some of it, but I'd still be curious why the
sump level would cause oil to go to the very top of the engine and out the
breather.
BTW, I have the Christen system and never have any oil overboard, and I fill
it to 8 qts. I consider those last two quarts as insurance.
Alex Peterson
RV6A N6AP 651 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
Listers,
Gary VanRemortel just sent me an update to the RV Yeller Pages and it
can be found here:
http://www.matronics.com/YellerPages/
Thanks Gary!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Separator |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil Separator
>
>
>> I had an interesting conversation with a Lycoming engineer several years
>> ago. Q: why does a full (8 quarts in most 4 cylinder engines, 12 quarts
>> in
>> most 6 cylinder engines) sump either burn or blow out oil? Why mark the
>> dip stick to a quantity that will not remain in the engine? Is there any
>> harm is running less oil in the sump on a routine basis? Answer:
>> regulations !
>
> The regulations maybe explain some of it, but I'd still be curious why the
> sump level would cause oil to go to the very top of the engine and out the
> breather.
>
> BTW, I have the Christen system and never have any oil overboard, and I
> fill
> it to 8 qts. I consider those last two quarts as insurance.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6A N6AP 651 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
The answer is that the oil doesn't "go to the very top of the engine and out
the breather"... What happens is that the higher oil level means the oil is
that much closer to the crankshaft and rods, which means the reciprocating
parts are that much more likely to come into contact with the oil in the
pan during any uncoordinated turns, climbs, or unusual attitude maneuvers.
When that happens, the oil splashes around, and some is turned into droplets
and goes out the breather.
By the way, I notice that I get far less oil on the belly if I keep the
greasy side down. My Oshkosh trip this year was Atlanta to Minneapolis to
Oshkosh to Chicago to Ann Arbor and back to Atlanta. With my wife along, I
was under a strict edict to fly smooth, and as level as possible. I don't
have the hours handy, but I'm guessing 12-14 or so for the total trip. I
didn't add any oil and the belly was relatively clean when I got home. In
the same number of hours of local flying, I'd probably do 25 rolls, a number
of wing overs, some lazy 8's, and several other positive G maneuvers. Over
that span, I'd need to add at least a quart of oil and the airplane's belly
would be a mess...
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Separator |
Received-SPF: none
The rods and crankshaft are pressure fed in a Lycoming Engine and the
crankshaft is in the middle of the engine. If you drop the sump, there is
no direct access from there to the rods or crankshaft, so I don't understand
how keeping the sump full adds to the possibility of the rods coming in
contact with the oil? I know that can happen in a car engine, but I don't
see that having any bearing on an aircraft engine. I think what causes most
oil loss is just simple blow-by. These engine get a lot of oil to the tops
of the cylinders and some is going to get past the guides and seals and into
the combustion chamber, the more oil you put up there, the more gets by. By
flipping a plane around, you may increase it. Lycoming also states that it
is safe to fly an IO-360 on as little as two quarts, but the additional oil
helps provide cooling.
Jim
Jim Cimino
N7TL
RV-8 S/N 80039
150+ Hours
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Separator
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil Separator
>
>
>>
>>
>>> I had an interesting conversation with a Lycoming engineer several years
>>> ago. Q: why does a full (8 quarts in most 4 cylinder engines, 12 quarts
>>> in
>>> most 6 cylinder engines) sump either burn or blow out oil? Why mark the
>>> dip stick to a quantity that will not remain in the engine? Is there any
>>> harm is running less oil in the sump on a routine basis? Answer:
>>> regulations !
>>
>> The regulations maybe explain some of it, but I'd still be curious why
>> the
>> sump level would cause oil to go to the very top of the engine and out
>> the
>> breather.
>>
>> BTW, I have the Christen system and never have any oil overboard, and I
>> fill
>> it to 8 qts. I consider those last two quarts as insurance.
>>
>> Alex Peterson
>> RV6A N6AP 651 hours
>> Maple Grove, MN
>>
>
> The answer is that the oil doesn't "go to the very top of the engine and
> out
> the breather"... What happens is that the higher oil level means the oil
> is
> that much closer to the crankshaft and rods, which means the reciprocating
> parts are that much more likely to come into contact with the oil in the
> pan during any uncoordinated turns, climbs, or unusual attitude maneuvers.
> When that happens, the oil splashes around, and some is turned into
> droplets
> and goes out the breather.
>
> By the way, I notice that I get far less oil on the belly if I keep the
> greasy side down. My Oshkosh trip this year was Atlanta to Minneapolis to
> Oshkosh to Chicago to Ann Arbor and back to Atlanta. With my wife along,
> I
> was under a strict edict to fly smooth, and as level as possible. I don't
> have the hours handy, but I'm guessing 12-14 or so for the total trip. I
> didn't add any oil and the belly was relatively clean when I got home. In
> the same number of hours of local flying, I'd probably do 25 rolls, a
> number
> of wing overs, some lazy 8's, and several other positive G maneuvers.
> Over
> that span, I'd need to add at least a quart of oil and the airplane's
> belly
> would be a mess...
>
> Kyle Boatright
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder Leading edge |
I just finished rolling and riveting the leading edge of the rudder
tonight. Wow, wasn't squeezing g that thing together fun. It turned
out pretty good with the top section nearest the counterbalance rib and
the bottom section are very good with the riveted edge very tight. The
center section is not quite as tight. There are about three places
where I could not get a good bend on the edge and after riveting, there
is a slight gap between the two skins. The gap is very slight in all
three places but wanting to be a perfectionist, I thought I would get
some thoughts from the group. Is there a problem if the two skins are
not perfectly tight at the edges, should I drill the section out and try
and tighten them up, or should I let it go and deal with it when I
paint? Y the way, the roll is very equal and symmetrical these small
gaps seem to be the only problem.
Thanks for the input.
Rick Leach
40397
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Joseph Larson wrote:
>
> No one "needs" one. I've only flown with one once, and I really
> liked it. I got back from that flight and checked prices, then
> gulped and said, "Guess my RV isn't going to have one."
>
> But now all the EFIS units have an HSI type of display, so I might
> get one after all :-)
Some of the handheld GPS's have a surprisingly useful "HSI" as well.
While the HSI in my Lowrance Airmap 1000 is just a fancy GPS display, it
looks like an HSI and behaves a lot like one. It will even mimic an OBS
and let you select a VOR "radial" or a bearing off a waypoint. I haven't
had any need for the HSI display (don't shoot approaches in IMC), but it
is kinda cool to play with.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Separator |
Jim Cimino wrote:
>
>The rods and crankshaft are pressure fed in a Lycoming Engine and the
>crankshaft is in the middle of the engine. If you drop the sump, there is
>no direct access from there to the rods or crankshaft, so I don't understand
>how keeping the sump full adds to the possibility of the rods coming in
>contact with the oil?
>
If you do drop the pan and look closely at the case parting liine,
you'll see some oval holes that the oil drains down through to the sump
after it's done it's job lubricating things.
> I know that can happen in a car engine, but I don't
>see that having any bearing on an aircraft engine.
>
It really doesn't. I believe that if you put all 8 quarts (or whatever
is 'full' for your engine) in, the level will rise above the level of
the sump into the crank cavity where it's whipped a little and goes out
the crankcase vent. I also think that when the level gets down to 6
qts, the oil level is down in the sump. It would be easy to check by
comparing the level of the 8 qt mark on the dipstick to the level of the
dipstick tube. The next time I have the cowl off, I'll check. Y'all
can do the same and report back.
> I think what causes most oil loss is just simple blow-by.
>
I think you're right!
> These engine get a lot of oil to the tops
>of the cylinders and some is going to get past the guides and seals and into
>the combustion chamber, the more oil you put up there, the more gets by.
>
I don't think this is true. There is some oil pumped to the rocker area
through the pushrods ..... and that oil really aids in cooling ....
especially the exhaust valve. Keep an eye on CHTs for #3, as it's
typically the hottest .... and has the lowest amount of oil flow due to
it being at the end of the oil gallery.
> By flipping a plane around, you may increase it.
>
Nah. Almost all the oil goes out the breather or your inverted oil
system if you have one. On a tight engine, (read good cylinders and
rings) the amount burned is negligible compared to what you'll dump
overboard doing akro ..... unless you're really good and only pull + Gs.
> Lycoming also states that it is safe to fly an IO-360 on as little as two quarts,
but the additional oil helps provide cooling.
>
True. However, if you fill the oil to the 'full' mark (8 qts), you'll
lose the first two rapidly out the breather. Bill Gunn has already
covered WHY it says fill to 8 qts!!!
Linn
>Jim
>
>Jim Cimino
>N7TL
>RV-8 S/N 80039
>150+ Hours
>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Separator
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
>>To:
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil Separator
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>I had an interesting conversation with a Lycoming engineer several years
>>>>ago. Q: why does a full (8 quarts in most 4 cylinder engines, 12 quarts
>>>>in
>>>>most 6 cylinder engines) sump either burn or blow out oil? Why mark the
>>>>dip stick to a quantity that will not remain in the engine? Is there any
>>>>harm is running less oil in the sump on a routine basis? Answer:
>>>>regulations !
>>>>
>>>>
>>>The regulations maybe explain some of it, but I'd still be curious why
>>>the
>>>sump level would cause oil to go to the very top of the engine and out
>>>the
>>>breather.
>>>
>>>BTW, I have the Christen system and never have any oil overboard, and I
>>>fill
>>>it to 8 qts. I consider those last two quarts as insurance.
>>>
>>>Alex Peterson
>>>RV6A N6AP 651 hours
>>>Maple Grove, MN
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>The answer is that the oil doesn't "go to the very top of the engine and
>>out
>>the breather"... What happens is that the higher oil level means the oil
>>is
>>that much closer to the crankshaft and rods, which means the reciprocating
>>parts are that much more likely to come into contact with the oil in the
>>pan during any uncoordinated turns, climbs, or unusual attitude maneuvers.
>>When that happens, the oil splashes around, and some is turned into
>>droplets
>>and goes out the breather.
>>
>>By the way, I notice that I get far less oil on the belly if I keep the
>>greasy side down. My Oshkosh trip this year was Atlanta to Minneapolis to
>>Oshkosh to Chicago to Ann Arbor and back to Atlanta. With my wife along,
>>I
>>was under a strict edict to fly smooth, and as level as possible. I don't
>>have the hours handy, but I'm guessing 12-14 or so for the total trip. I
>>didn't add any oil and the belly was relatively clean when I got home. In
>>the same number of hours of local flying, I'd probably do 25 rolls, a
>>number
>>of wing overs, some lazy 8's, and several other positive G maneuvers.
>>Over
>>that span, I'd need to add at least a quart of oil and the airplane's
>>belly
>>would be a mess...
>>
>>Kyle Boatright
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Leading edge |
Hi Rick,
Putting it off untill later can be a good ploy as skills and judgment will
likely be better developed.
However as a rule it is best to not leave a a lot of stuff for later. The
pile of unfinished odds and ends can get to be a bit annoying during the
painting seasions when you start finding all that stuff you meant to do
earlier.
I had to drive across town today to machine dimple some screw holes so that
the priming for final paint could continue.
Jim in Kelowna
Hello to Art in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Leading edge
>
> I just finished rolling and riveting the leading edge of the rudder
> tonight. Wow, wasn't squeezing g that thing together fun. It turned
> out pretty good with the top section nearest the counterbalance rib and
> the bottom section are very good with the riveted edge very tight. The
> center section is not quite as tight. There are about three places
> where I could not get a good bend on the edge and after riveting, there
> is a slight gap between the two skins. The gap is very slight in all
> three places but wanting to be a perfectionist, I thought I would get
> some thoughts from the group. Is there a problem if the two skins are
> not perfectly tight at the edges, should I drill the section out and try
> and tighten them up, or should I let it go and deal with it when I
> paint? Y the way, the roll is very equal and symmetrical these small
> gaps seem to be the only problem.
>
> Thanks for the input.
>
> Rick Leach
> 40397
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 08/08/05 |
Hi Scott,
To tell the truth I'm not sure that the RV8 has the same design requirements
in that area.
The fuse structure is quie different than the RV 6 series.
Maybe another RV 8 builder will chime in on the subject?.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "with HTTP/1.1" <scott@keadle.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 40 Msgs - 08/08/05
> Does this also apply to the RV-8 rear baggage compartment
> panel? I thought I had seen modifications allowing golf
> clubs, etc. that removed this panel. Was considering that
> myself, but glad I saw this thread...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Keadle
> 14A, Lake Norman Airpark, NC
> N844RF RV-8
>
> Scott
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | long power out glide question |
autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.2
I just watched the reinactment of the airbuss coming into the azores sans pwer
and I admit It brought tears to my eyes to experience the courage and smarts to
bring that huge plane down for such a long way as a glider and get her down
safly. I remember posting a question back in March I think it was abouit trying
to bring my 6a down on Jeff county Ga at idle from 10 mi out at 5000'. I ended
up overshooting in spite of slips and stuff. I remember quite a few responses
re trying something simular. Just wondered if anyone had tried a long gluide
successfully since then?? Charlie heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Leading edge |
Hi Rick
I was in a similar dilema. Took it down to the weekly EAA breakfast. Both
the tech advisor and the local sheet metal guru said that this doesn't show and
that fixing it may well foul the whole thing up. If in real doubt, take it
to your local EAA tech advisor.
One of the adages we use in my work is, the greatest enemy of good is better.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: long power out glide question |
Hi Charlie,
Glided my RV-6A 12 miles from 9500 MSL engine-out (prop stopped) to a safe
touch down at Winchester, TN. Best glide was 87 MPH. Ended up with excess
altitude (if there is any such thing {:>)) ) and had to do a 360 and a
couple of hard "S" turns to get it down.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: RV-List: long power out glide question
>
> I just watched the reinactment of the airbuss coming into the azores sans
> pwer and I admit It brought tears to my eyes to experience the courage and
> smarts to bring that huge plane down for such a long way as a glider and
> get her down safly. I remember posting a question back in March I think it
> was abouit trying to bring my 6a down on Jeff county Ga at idle from 10 mi
> out at 5000'. I ended up overshooting in spite of slips and stuff. I
> remember quite a few responses re trying something simular. Just wondered
> if anyone had tried a long gluide successfully since then?? Charlie
> heathco
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Leading edge |
Rick,
The rudder leading edge can not been seen when installed. Look at the rear spar/skin
area of your vertical stabilizer to see why. Don't worry about this and
move on. If it really bugs you, you can fill the gap with ProSeal while you build
your fuel tanks. That will ensure that water doesn't enter the rudder (from
that area) while flying in rain.
Charlie Kuss
---- Richard Leach wrote:
>
> I just finished rolling and riveting the leading edge of the rudder
> tonight. Wow, wasn't squeezing g that thing together fun. It turned
> out pretty good with the top section nearest the counterbalance rib and
> the bottom section are very good with the riveted edge very tight. The
> center section is not quite as tight. There are about three places
> where I could not get a good bend on the edge and after riveting, there
> is a slight gap between the two skins. The gap is very slight in all
> three places but wanting to be a perfectionist, I thought I would get
> some thoughts from the group. Is there a problem if the two skins are
> not perfectly tight at the edges, should I drill the section out and try
> and tighten them up, or should I let it go and deal with it when I
> paint? Y the way, the roll is very equal and symmetrical these small
> gaps seem to be the only problem.
>
> Thanks for the input.
>
> Rick Leach
> 40397
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Leading edge |
Hi Rick,
Having completed an empennage group recently, I am aware of your situation. Strictly
speaking, it matters not if the seam is uneven, it will not show and it
does not compromise aerodynamics. I assume you used the "broomstick" method
to roll the skins but even then I was not happy with the end result on two occasions.
The builders manual cautions about the difficulty of drilling out those
AD-41-ABS rivets so you would not do it lightly. Still, I am a highly experienced
ex-production sheet metal worker and did just that...with no real difficulty.
Once I had a chance to rework the skins partly by "massaging" them by
hand and partly by applying the broomstick again, it occured to me....roll a very
slight bend into the overlapping skin much as you would any overlapping or
abutting skin anywhere on the airframe surface to discourage gaps at the joint.
This helped significantly. After reriveting the skins together the verdict
was in......in the first instance it improved the
seam
noticably, the other time the end result was only marginally better. I would
say leave well enough alone.....only you will ever know the condition exists.
When you get to the elevators however, try slightly bending the edges of the
upper (overlapping) skins first before you roll the skins as I mentioned before.
You should see at least some improvement.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 65 hours
RV-8A empennage complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: long power out glide question |
What was the AGL?
>
>Hi Charlie,
>
>Glided my RV-6A 12 miles from 9500 MSL engine-out (prop stopped) to a safe
>touch down at Winchester, TN. Best glide was 87 MPH. Ended up with excess
>altitude (if there is any such thing {:>)) ) and had to do a 360 and a
>couple of hard "S" turns to get it down.
>
>Ed Anderson
>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>Matthews, NC
>eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: long power out glide question
>
>
> >
> > I just watched the reinactment of the airbuss coming into the azores sans
> > pwer and I admit It brought tears to my eyes to experience the courage and
> > smarts to bring that huge plane down for such a long way as a glider and
> > get her down safly. I remember posting a question back in March I think it
> > was abouit trying to bring my 6a down on Jeff county Ga at idle from 10 mi
> > out at 5000'. I ended up overshooting in spite of slips and stuff. I
> > remember quite a few responses re trying something simular. Just wondered
> > if anyone had tried a long gluide successfully since then?? Charlie
> > heathco
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: long power out glide question |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
autolearn=ham version=3.0.2
Ed,
Nice job on getting the plane down safely.
I am curious about the statement "best glide was 87 MPH." Is this something
you determined before hand? It sounds like you determined it during the
event.
Remember that best glide is not the same as minimum descent rate.
On 8/10/05 7:02 AM, "Ed Anderson" wrote:
>
> Hi Charlie,
>
> Glided my RV-6A 12 miles from 9500 MSL engine-out (prop stopped) to a safe
> touch down at Winchester, TN. Best glide was 87 MPH. Ended up with excess
> altitude (if there is any such thing {:>)) ) and had to do a 360 and a
> couple of hard "S" turns to get it down.
>
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: long power out glide question |
Ed's numbers suggest a glide ratio of no better than 7.6:1 if we can assume nautical
miles and airport at sea level (which Winchester TN isn't, I'm certain),
or 6.7:1 if he's using statute miles. RV's are supposed to glide a bit better
than that, so the "extra altitude" isn't surprising. Charlie's data does surprise
me, since a 10 mile glide from 5000 feet is 12:1 glide ratio if miles are
nautical, 10.6:1 if statute, and I thought our planes did no better than about
9:1 with their stubby little Hershey bar wings. To have extra altitude after
a glide like that suggests that idle power helps considerably in stretching
the glide.
I'd like to research this a but in my own plane, but the shock cooling issues worry
me a bit. I simply flight plan for 9:1 at 90 mph IAS for "safe" overwater
cruising altitude calcualtions. This is always plus or minus the winds, when
figuring whether to press on or turn back halfway out over the water.
I try to make 10 overhead landings at my home strip for every one conventional
pattern I fly, so I will be current on how to handle the excess altitude/speed
in a forced landing. I'm pretty confident now that if I can dive down to the
key point ("perch") at anything less than Vne, I can nail a spot-landing without
power after a 360 overhead with progressive use of flaps and slips. That's
reassuring, but I've never done it with the engine off.
Just tossing numbers out for consideration...
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Anderson <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: long power out glide question
Hi Charlie,
Glided my RV-6A 12 miles from 9500 MSL engine-out (prop stopped) to a safe
touch down at Winchester, TN. Best glide was 87 MPH. Ended up with excess
altitude (if there is any such thing {:>)) ) and had to do a 360 and a
couple of hard "S" turns to get it down.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: RV-List: long power out glide question
>
> I just watched the reinactment of the airbuss coming into the azores sans
> pwer and I admit It brought tears to my eyes to experience the courage and
> smarts to bring that huge plane down for such a long way as a glider and
> get her down safly. I remember posting a question back in March I think it
> was abouit trying to bring my 6a down on Jeff county Ga at idle from 10 mi
> out at 5000'. I ended up overshooting in spite of slips and stuff. I
> remember quite a few responses re trying something simular. Just wondered
> if anyone had tried a long gluide successfully since then?? Charlie
> heathco
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I checked the archives but did not come away with much help. Can anyone
describe how they have balanced their nose gear and main fairings. My nose
gear pulses about 1/2" in level flight. Also any advice on how to
effectively balance the tires?
Thanks
John
RIVA 425 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: long power out glide question |
version=3.0.2
Re glide power out VS ideling there is a noticable diff in decent rate (also
a noticable diff in pucker factor,right Ed? :-). When I was training in
cherokees mid 60's
simulated power loss'es were done by killing the engine with the mixture,
then restoring to richwhen instructor was satisfied that you could make your
target. I think the reason they quit that method was due to engines not
restarting. Charlie Heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: <sportav8r(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: long power out glide question
Ed's numbers suggest a glide ratio of no better than 7.6:1 if we can assume
nautical miles and airport at sea level (which Winchester TN isn't, I'm
certain), or 6.7:1 if he's using statute miles. RV's are supposed to glide
a bit better than that, so the "extra altitude" isn't surprising. Charlie's
data does surprise me, since a 10 mile glide from 5000 feet is 12:1 glide
ratio if miles are nautical, 10.6:1 if statute, and I thought our planes did
no better than about 9:1 with their stubby little Hershey bar wings. To
have extra altitude after a glide like that suggests that idle power helps
considerably in stretching the glide.
I'd like to research this a but in my own plane, but the shock cooling
issues worry me a bit. I simply flight plan for 9:1 at 90 mph IAS for
"safe" overwater cruising altitude calcualtions. This is always plus or
minus the winds, when figuring whether to press on or turn back halfway out
over the water.
I try to make 10 overhead landings at my home strip for every one
conventional pattern I fly, so I will be current on how to handle the excess
altitude/speed in a forced landing. I'm pretty confident now that if I can
dive down to the key point ("perch") at anything less than Vne, I can nail a
spot-landing without power after a 360 overhead with progressive use of
flaps and slips. That's reassuring, but I've never done it with the engine
off.
Just tossing numbers out for consideration...
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Anderson <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: long power out glide question
Hi Charlie,
Glided my RV-6A 12 miles from 9500 MSL engine-out (prop stopped) to a safe
touch down at Winchester, TN. Best glide was 87 MPH. Ended up with excess
altitude (if there is any such thing {:>)) ) and had to do a 360 and a
couple of hard "S" turns to get it down.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: RV-List: long power out glide question
>
> I just watched the reinactment of the airbuss coming into the azores sans
> pwer and I admit It brought tears to my eyes to experience the courage and
> smarts to bring that huge plane down for such a long way as a glider and
> get her down safly. I remember posting a question back in March I think it
> was abouit trying to bring my 6a down on Jeff county Ga at idle from 10 mi
> out at 5000'. I ended up overshooting in spite of slips and stuff. I
> remember quite a few responses re trying something simular. Just wondered
> if anyone had tried a long gluide successfully since then?? Charlie
> heathco
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
version=3.0.2
John, I dont think nose gear fairings have enough area in the front section
to have much effect, but I used a method given here to ballance mains buy
adding fish line weights to the front to get a balance over a stick placed
at wheel center, then epoxying them in. Charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RV-List: Balance
I checked the archives but did not come away with much help. Can anyone
describe how they have balanced their nose gear and main fairings. My nose
gear pulses about 1/2" in level flight. Also any advice on how to
effectively balance the tires?
Thanks
John
RIVA 425 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Leading edge |
On 6:12:48 2005-08-10 Rick Galati wrote:
> it occured to me....roll a very slight bend into the overlapping skin
> much as you would any overlapping or abutting skin anywhere on the
> airframe surface to discourage gaps at the joint. This helped
> significantly.
This reminds me, I saw at Arlington one year someone selling a device for
"tweaking" the edge of a piece of sheet aluminum in this manner. If I
recall clearly, it looked like two rollers with matching bevels on them,
that you simply roll down the edge of the sheet, and you end up with about
a 3/16" to 1/4" bend or lip on the edge of the sheet. The bend wasn't more
than about 15 degrees or so, but it looked like it would be just enough for
this rudder leading edge.
Anyone know what this tool is called, or where to buy one?
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Leading edge |
Avery calls it an Edge Rolling Tool, part # 1042, $14.00 in their 2001
catalog.
Terry
This reminds me, I saw at Arlington one year someone selling a device for
"tweaking" the edge of a piece of sheet aluminum in this manner. If I
recall clearly, it looked like two rollers with matching bevels on them,
that you simply roll down the edge of the sheet, and you end up with about
a 3/16" to 1/4" bend or lip on the edge of the sheet. The bend wasn't more
than about 15 degrees or so, but it looked like it would be just enough for
this rudder leading edge.
Anyone know what this tool is called, or where to buy one?
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: long power out glide question |
Scott, Terran elevation was on the average around 1500 feet as best I recall
(I was 12 miles SE of Winchester,TN) on the Alabama/TN border. Don't have a
map handy to look up the terrain elevation. But, if you have a Sectional of
that area, the engine quite over a tiny little burg by the name (of all
things) Anderson! So you could say the spot the engine quit had my name on
it. Hummmmm. I believe I was approx 1500 or so AGL over Winchester,TN
airport - at Least enough altitude to do a 360 turn and a couple of S turns
and still came over the fence close to 100 mph - fortunately had 4000 ft
plus runway to get it on the ground.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: long power out glide question
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> What was the AGL?
>
>>
>>Hi Charlie,
>>
>>Glided my RV-6A 12 miles from 9500 MSL engine-out (prop stopped) to a safe
>>touch down at Winchester, TN. Best glide was 87 MPH. Ended up with excess
>>altitude (if there is any such thing {:>)) ) and had to do a 360 and a
>>couple of hard "S" turns to get it down.
>>
>>Ed Anderson
>>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>>Matthews, NC
>>eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
>>To:
>>Subject: RV-List: long power out glide question
>>
>>
>> >
>> > I just watched the reinactment of the airbuss coming into the azores
>> > sans
>> > pwer and I admit It brought tears to my eyes to experience the courage
>> > and
>> > smarts to bring that huge plane down for such a long way as a glider
>> > and
>> > get her down safly. I remember posting a question back in March I think
>> > it
>> > was abouit trying to bring my 6a down on Jeff county Ga at idle from 10
>> > mi
>> > out at 5000'. I ended up overshooting in spite of slips and stuff. I
>> > remember quite a few responses re trying something simular. Just
>> > wondered
>> > if anyone had tried a long gluide successfully since then?? Charlie
>> > heathco
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Leading edge |
Rob,
Try Avery tools or Cleavland tools.
The top of Page 54, Part no. 1042 edge rolling tool, in the 2002 Avery
catalog for instance is the tool I have used with success.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Rudder Leading edge
>
> On 6:12:48 2005-08-10 Rick Galati wrote:
>> it occured to me....roll a very slight bend into the overlapping skin
>> much as you would any overlapping or abutting skin anywhere on the
>> airframe surface to discourage gaps at the joint. This helped
>> significantly.
>
> This reminds me, I saw at Arlington one year someone selling a device for
> "tweaking" the edge of a piece of sheet aluminum in this manner. If I
> recall clearly, it looked like two rollers with matching bevels on them,
> that you simply roll down the edge of the sheet, and you end up with about
> a 3/16" to 1/4" bend or lip on the edge of the sheet. The bend wasn't
> more
> than about 15 degrees or so, but it looked like it would be just enough
> for
> this rudder leading edge.
>
> Anyone know what this tool is called, or where to buy one?
>
> -Rob
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: long power out glide question |
Thanks for the info. I was just trying to equate altitude, to distance, so
roughly, 8k AGL = 12 and maybe as much as 15 miles, depending on wind. That
could be key when hitting the nearest button on the GPS, and knowing you
can or cannot make the airport and start looking for someplace else safe to
land.
>
>Scott, Terran elevation was on the average around 1500 feet as best I recall
>(I was 12 miles SE of Winchester,TN) on the Alabama/TN border. Don't have a
>map handy to look up the terrain elevation. But, if you have a Sectional of
>that area, the engine quite over a tiny little burg by the name (of all
>things) Anderson! So you could say the spot the engine quit had my name on
>it. Hummmmm. I believe I was approx 1500 or so AGL over Winchester,TN
>airport - at Least enough altitude to do a 360 turn and a couple of S turns
>and still came over the fence close to 100 mph - fortunately had 4000 ft
>plus runway to get it on the ground.
>
>Ed
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: long power out glide question
>
>
> > <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> > What was the AGL?
> >
> >>
> >>Hi Charlie,
> >>
> >>Glided my RV-6A 12 miles from 9500 MSL engine-out (prop stopped) to a safe
> >>touch down at Winchester, TN. Best glide was 87 MPH. Ended up with excess
> >>altitude (if there is any such thing {:>)) ) and had to do a 360 and a
> >>couple of hard "S" turns to get it down.
> >>
> >>Ed Anderson
> >>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> >>Matthews, NC
> >>eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
> >>To:
> >>Subject: RV-List: long power out glide question
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > I just watched the reinactment of the airbuss coming into the azores
> >> > sans
> >> > pwer and I admit It brought tears to my eyes to experience the courage
> >> > and
> >> > smarts to bring that huge plane down for such a long way as a glider
> >> > and
> >> > get her down safly. I remember posting a question back in March I think
> >> > it
> >> > was abouit trying to bring my 6a down on Jeff county Ga at idle from 10
> >> > mi
> >> > out at 5000'. I ended up overshooting in spite of slips and stuff. I
> >> > remember quite a few responses re trying something simular. Just
> >> > wondered
> >> > if anyone had tried a long gluide successfully since then?? Charlie
> >> > heathco
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > Scott Bilinski
> > Eng dept 305
> > Phone (858) 657-2536
> > Pager (858) 502-5190
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Separator |
Somewhat related.....
Ive noticed when doing my oil changes that putting 6 qts in brings my
dipstick reading to 8. Even after running the engine and getting it warm
enough to get to the filter, it still reads very near 8. Hmmmm.
There were some c-172's on the field with io360's and I tried their
dipsticks but they were way too long.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Separator
>
> Jim Cimino wrote:
>
>>
>>The rods and crankshaft are pressure fed in a Lycoming Engine and the
>>crankshaft is in the middle of the engine. If you drop the sump, there is
>>no direct access from there to the rods or crankshaft, so I don't
>>understand
>>how keeping the sump full adds to the possibility of the rods coming in
>>contact with the oil?
>>
> If you do drop the pan and look closely at the case parting liine,
> you'll see some oval holes that the oil drains down through to the sump
> after it's done it's job lubricating things.
>
>> I know that can happen in a car engine, but I don't
>>see that having any bearing on an aircraft engine.
>>
> It really doesn't. I believe that if you put all 8 quarts (or whatever
> is 'full' for your engine) in, the level will rise above the level of
> the sump into the crank cavity where it's whipped a little and goes out
> the crankcase vent. I also think that when the level gets down to 6
> qts, the oil level is down in the sump. It would be easy to check by
> comparing the level of the 8 qt mark on the dipstick to the level of the
> dipstick tube. The next time I have the cowl off, I'll check. Y'all
> can do the same and report back.
>
>> I think what causes most oil loss is just simple blow-by.
>>
> I think you're right!
>
>> These engine get a lot of oil to the tops
>>of the cylinders and some is going to get past the guides and seals and
>>into
>>the combustion chamber, the more oil you put up there, the more gets by.
>>
> I don't think this is true. There is some oil pumped to the rocker area
> through the pushrods ..... and that oil really aids in cooling ....
> especially the exhaust valve. Keep an eye on CHTs for #3, as it's
> typically the hottest .... and has the lowest amount of oil flow due to
> it being at the end of the oil gallery.
>
>> By flipping a plane around, you may increase it.
>>
> Nah. Almost all the oil goes out the breather or your inverted oil
> system if you have one. On a tight engine, (read good cylinders and
> rings) the amount burned is negligible compared to what you'll dump
> overboard doing akro ..... unless you're really good and only pull + Gs.
>
>> Lycoming also states that it is safe to fly an IO-360 on as little as
>> two quarts, but the additional oil helps provide cooling.
>>
> True. However, if you fill the oil to the 'full' mark (8 qts), you'll
> lose the first two rapidly out the breather. Bill Gunn has already
> covered WHY it says fill to 8 qts!!!
> Linn
>
>>Jim
>>
>>Jim Cimino
>>N7TL
>>RV-8 S/N 80039
>>150+ Hours
>>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Separator
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
>>>To:
>>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil Separator
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I had an interesting conversation with a Lycoming engineer several
>>>>>years
>>>>>ago. Q: why does a full (8 quarts in most 4 cylinder engines, 12 quarts
>>>>>in
>>>>>most 6 cylinder engines) sump either burn or blow out oil? Why mark the
>>>>>dip stick to a quantity that will not remain in the engine? Is there
>>>>>any
>>>>>harm is running less oil in the sump on a routine basis? Answer:
>>>>>regulations !
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>The regulations maybe explain some of it, but I'd still be curious why
>>>>the
>>>>sump level would cause oil to go to the very top of the engine and out
>>>>the
>>>>breather.
>>>>
>>>>BTW, I have the Christen system and never have any oil overboard, and I
>>>>fill
>>>>it to 8 qts. I consider those last two quarts as insurance.
>>>>
>>>>Alex Peterson
>>>>RV6A N6AP 651 hours
>>>>Maple Grove, MN
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>The answer is that the oil doesn't "go to the very top of the engine and
>>>out
>>>the breather"... What happens is that the higher oil level means the oil
>>>is
>>>that much closer to the crankshaft and rods, which means the
>>>reciprocating
>>>parts are that much more likely to come into contact with the oil in the
>>>pan during any uncoordinated turns, climbs, or unusual attitude
>>>maneuvers.
>>>When that happens, the oil splashes around, and some is turned into
>>>droplets
>>>and goes out the breather.
>>>
>>>By the way, I notice that I get far less oil on the belly if I keep the
>>>greasy side down. My Oshkosh trip this year was Atlanta to Minneapolis
>>>to
>>>Oshkosh to Chicago to Ann Arbor and back to Atlanta. With my wife along,
>>>I
>>>was under a strict edict to fly smooth, and as level as possible. I
>>>don't
>>>have the hours handy, but I'm guessing 12-14 or so for the total trip. I
>>>didn't add any oil and the belly was relatively clean when I got home.
>>>In
>>>the same number of hours of local flying, I'd probably do 25 rolls, a
>>>number
>>>of wing overs, some lazy 8's, and several other positive G maneuvers.
>>>Over
>>>that span, I'd need to add at least a quart of oil and the airplane's
>>>belly
>>>would be a mess...
>>>
>>>Kyle Boatright
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: long power out glide question |
Hi Larry
Thanks, it was a long 8 minutes or so.
I should rephrase my statement - yes, I did have time to experiment with
airspeed. So I should state that my minimum descent rate was obtained on
that day with that gross weight (approx 1550 lbs) at 87 mph (prop stopped).
Any faster airspeed and the sink rate went up and any slower and it went up.
I also found the prop would stop rotating at 110 mph. So it was not best
glide, as you point out, but minimum sink rate. Fortunately, when I punch
up the nst on my Garmin 195 it showed the two closest airports both 12
miles away - one slightly to my right was up wind and the other over my
left rear quarter was down wind. Recalling from my old days of flying an
Aronica Champ, I knew that downwind would buy me much more distance so made
a 120 deg turn to Winchester and needless to say it turn out OK.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: long power out glide question
>
> Ed,
>
> Nice job on getting the plane down safely.
>
> I am curious about the statement "best glide was 87 MPH." Is this
> something
> you determined before hand? It sounds like you determined it during the
> event.
>
> Remember that best glide is not the same as minimum descent rate.
>
>
> On 8/10/05 7:02 AM, "Ed Anderson" wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Charlie,
>>
>> Glided my RV-6A 12 miles from 9500 MSL engine-out (prop stopped) to a
>> safe
>> touch down at Winchester, TN. Best glide was 87 MPH. Ended up with
>> excess
>> altitude (if there is any such thing {:>)) ) and had to do a 360 and a
>> couple of hard "S" turns to get it down.
>>
>
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://n5lp.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.T. Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Stanley Ehlinger |
Any one know new contact info for Stanley? Or Stanley are you out there?
If so, please email me at jhelms(at)nationair.com or call us toll free at 877
475 5860.
Contact numbers we have for you are all disconnected, and WWW search has
turned up empty.
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir Insurance Agency
Light Aircraft Office
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: long power out glide question |
Hi Stormy,
I did sit down at one point and calculated out the glide ratio given the
altitude of Winchester, TN and my arrival altitude at Winchester and it came
out to around 9.2:1. Giving that I varied my airspeed during that glide as
well using a minimum rate of descent which I erroneously called my "best
glide". So fudging in for those factors and I would not be surprised if the
actual glide ratio was pretty close to 10:1. I for one was quite happy to
have glided 12 miles and arrived with "altitude to spare".
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: <sportav8r(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: long power out glide question
>
> Ed's numbers suggest a glide ratio of no better than 7.6:1 if we can
> assume nautical miles and airport at sea level (which Winchester TN isn't,
> I'm certain), or 6.7:1 if he's using statute miles. RV's are supposed to
> glide a bit better than that, so the "extra altitude" isn't surprising.
> Charlie's data does surprise me, since a 10 mile glide from 5000 feet is
> 12:1 glide ratio if miles are nautical, 10.6:1 if statute, and I thought
> our planes did no better than about 9:1 with their stubby little Hershey
> bar wings. To have extra altitude after a glide like that suggests that
> idle power helps considerably in stretching the glide.
>
> I'd like to research this a but in my own plane, but the shock cooling
> issues worry me a bit. I simply flight plan for 9:1 at 90 mph IAS for
> "safe" overwater cruising altitude calcualtions. This is always plus or
> minus the winds, when figuring whether to press on or turn back halfway
> out over the water.
>
> I try to make 10 overhead landings at my home strip for every one
> conventional pattern I fly, so I will be current on how to handle the
> excess altitude/speed in a forced landing. I'm pretty confident now that
> if I can dive down to the key point ("perch") at anything less than Vne, I
> can nail a spot-landing without power after a 360 overhead with
> progressive use of flaps and slips. That's reassuring, but I've never
> done it with the engine off.
>
> Just tossing numbers out for consideration...
>
> -Stormy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Anderson <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: long power out glide question
>
>
> Hi Charlie,
>
> Glided my RV-6A 12 miles from 9500 MSL engine-out (prop stopped) to a safe
> touch down at Winchester, TN. Best glide was 87 MPH. Ended up with excess
> altitude (if there is any such thing {:>)) ) and had to do a 360 and a
> couple of hard "S" turns to get it down.
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: long power out glide question
>
>
>>
>> I just watched the reinactment of the airbuss coming into the azores sans
>> pwer and I admit It brought tears to my eyes to experience the courage
>> and
>> smarts to bring that huge plane down for such a long way as a glider and
>> get her down safly. I remember posting a question back in March I think
>> it
>> was abouit trying to bring my 6a down on Jeff county Ga at idle from 10
>> mi
>> out at 5000'. I ended up overshooting in spite of slips and stuff. I
>> remember quite a few responses re trying something simular. Just wondered
>> if anyone had tried a long gluide successfully since then?? Charlie
>> heathco
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: long power out glide question |
I'm glad you did, Ed. Always better to have too much than too little. Knowing
how to arrive hot by diving to the runway when necessary, followed by a tight
360 to burn off the energy and arrive back at the numbers is a skill to be cherished
but hopefully never needed :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Anderson <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: long power out glide question
Hi Stormy,
I did sit down at one point and calculated out the glide ratio given the
altitude of Winchester, TN and my arrival altitude at Winchester and it came
out to around 9.2:1. Giving that I varied my airspeed during that glide as
well using a minimum rate of descent which I erroneously called my "best
glide". So fudging in for those factors and I would not be surprised if the
actual glide ratio was pretty close to 10:1. I for one was quite happy to
have glided 12 miles and arrived with "altitude to spare".
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
I used to fly with a friend quite a bit in his Cessna 185 on amphibious
floats. I wanted to bring the oil up to the full mark; he didn't. When we
did fill it up, it seemed to get blown back on the belly. It occurred to me
that the 185 is designed as a tail-wheel airplane, and maybe the dipstick
would have read different with a tailwheel than it did sitting level on the
floats. Could that apply to nose wheel vs. tail wheel RV's?
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Separator
Somewhat related.....
Ive noticed when doing my oil changes that putting 6 qts in brings my
dipstick reading to 8. Even after running the engine and getting it warm
enough to get to the filter, it still reads very near 8. Hmmmm.
There were some c-172's on the field with io360's and I tried their
dipsticks but they were way too long.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
Actually,
in the four cyl lycs, number 3 tappet oil comes right off the very beginning
of the oil feed gallery, which is what feeds the oil to the cyl heads via
the push rods.
But that said, that gallery that feeds the tappets is very large so I would
expect that they all see the same amount of flow at 50+ psi.
Since clearing my cooling fin flashing on the fins between the spark plugs
on all cylinders, number 3 is only hottest during full power ops, at all
other time 1, 2, & 3 all remain close and will vary as to which is hottest.
Number 4 is always colder, probably due to being a carbureted engine which
is also probably what causes 3 to be hot during full power. The whole idea
of a pressure air plenum is to keep delta P across each cylinder equal.
RE Piston spray nozzles, these are used on most of the injected engines and
or high compression helo engines where they are extracting slightly more
horsepower out of each cylinder. In the parallel valve group they use the
same or similar cylinders so to reject the extra heat they install piston
spray nozzles off the gallery that carries oil to the tappets and to the cam
spray holes. If I remember correctly these nozzles have a pressure valve
that opens above 37 psi so that under low RPM/oil flow conditions they
remain closed ensuring adequate flow to other areas during operating times
where high heat is not being developed.
They actually don't spray much but rather shoot a stream across the case
onto the bottom of the opposing piston. But I imagine stream this gets
fairly blasted as the piston trucking right along.
That said, the cam spray nozzles also rain oil down upon the crank, along
with all the oil the crank is throwing from the mains and con rod bearings.
So foam and oil vapor is very prevalent regardless of oil sump contents.
I would expect its more of an issue about condensation and defoaming area as
well as the route case gasses flow. If the sump is full there is very little
oil pool surface area to condensate the vapor, nor is there much volume for
the foam to degas. As well the internal case flow for air/bypass gasses is
going to be out the two back slots, and down the three sump slots with lower
a oil level, but if those lower slots are full of oil/foam, the gasses, and
possibly foam has to go out the back slots, and up into the accessory case.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Are you looking to balance the tires, or the wheel pants? For wheel
pants, here's how I did it, and it worked out quite well. Reduced main
gear shimmy to nothing.
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/wheel%20pants.htm
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | More Hinge Pin Hell (Cowling) |
So, there I was yesterday ready to pull the cowl off the ole RV6 for an oil
change an general checkup. Went to pull the bottom pins (down by the
exhaust) and to my surprise, one pin came out VERY easily, except there was
only half of it there!
Now I'm in a pickle. Half of the hinge pin is still in the hinge, but
completely ubstructed by the landing gear on the outside so I can't push it
out from there.
I'm looking for any neat suggestions....
My plan - I'm going to drill out those #@$#%
$ pins on the bottom and put in
camlocks or nutplates like I should have to begin with (like I did on the
new RV6).
Just a reminder for everyone out there. You might seriously consider
installing either camlocks or nutplates at least on those bottom pins from
the get go. I did on my later RV and I'll never use pins for the entire
cowling again, especially around the firewall.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | long power out glide question |
Ed,
Congratulations on your successful landing and Thank You for sharing the
experience with us.
I'm sure you had a lot on your mind but if your engine-out had been on the
first Saturday morning of the month between apx. 7:30 and 9:00, you would
have been just in time for a delicious breakfast served up by the Winchester
EAA Chapter and the local high school band boosters. The identifier is BGF
so if any of you guys and gals want a good breakfast destination, put this
one on your calendar.
One other thought...if your engine out had coincided with the EAA breakfast
at BGF, your pucker factor would probably have been higher due to all the
traffic in the pattern. :
o Yikes!
Anyway, thanks again for sharing your data with us.
Don Hull
Decatur, Al
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Subject: Re: RV-List: long power out glide question
Hi Larry
Thanks, it was a long 8 minutes or so.
I should rephrase my statement - yes, I did have time to experiment with
airspeed. So I should state that my minimum descent rate was obtained on
that day with that gross weight (approx 1550 lbs) at 87 mph (prop stopped).
Any faster airspeed and the sink rate went up and any slower and it went up.
I also found the prop would stop rotating at 110 mph. So it was not best
glide, as you point out, but minimum sink rate. Fortunately, when I punch
up the nst on my Garmin 195 it showed the two closest airports both 12
miles away - one slightly to my right was up wind and the other over my
left rear quarter was down wind. Recalling from my old days of flying an
Aronica Champ, I knew that downwind would buy me much more distance so made
a 120 deg turn to Winchester and needless to say it turn out OK.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: long power out glide question
>
> Ed,
>
> Nice job on getting the plane down safely.
>
> I am curious about the statement "best glide was 87 MPH." Is this
> something
> you determined before hand? It sounds like you determined it during the
> event.
>
> Remember that best glide is not the same as minimum descent rate.
>
>
> On 8/10/05 7:02 AM, "Ed Anderson" wrote:
>
>> -->
>>
>> Hi Charlie,
>>
>> Glided my RV-6A 12 miles from 9500 MSL engine-out (prop stopped) to a
>> safe
>> touch down at Winchester, TN. Best glide was 87 MPH. Ended up with
>> excess
>> altitude (if there is any such thing {:>)) ) and had to do a 360 and a
>> couple of hard "S" turns to get it down.
>>
>
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://n5lp.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: long power out glide question |
Hi Don,
Yes, as best I recall this was on a Thursday morning - no traffic at all.
Some of your local chapter showed up to watch me pull the cowl off and
ascertain that there was nothing wrong with the engine (nor the left full
tank). Turns out my flop tube had fallen off of its bulkhead fitting in the
right tank - and I (stupidly) decided that since I knew I had 3 gallons left
in the right tank (that much was true) that availability of fuel was not the
problem (that much was wrong). I convinced myself that my coarse fuel
filter (common to both tanks) had plugged up with some of that slosh
compound we used to use to seal the tanks. Soooo, did not turn the fuel
select handle over to the left tank (started to - then talked myself out of
it, should never have listened {:>)). Had I simply switched fuel tanks like
my old instructor always hammered into my head - there would have been no
glide.
I had flow over 200 hours before the flop tube backed off its fitting, so
can only assume I must have screwed it on only hand tight and vibration
eventually worked it loose - its on tight now.
I do intend to drop back in on your guys one of these days - with power.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov>
Subject: RE: RV-List: long power out glide question
>
> Ed,
> Congratulations on your successful landing and Thank You for sharing the
> experience with us.
>
> I'm sure you had a lot on your mind but if your engine-out had been on the
> first Saturday morning of the month between apx. 7:30 and 9:00, you would
> have been just in time for a delicious breakfast served up by the
> Winchester
> EAA Chapter and the local high school band boosters. The identifier is
> BGF
> so if any of you guys and gals want a good breakfast destination, put this
> one on your calendar.
>
> One other thought...if your engine out had coincided with the EAA
> breakfast
> at BGF, your pucker factor would probably have been higher due to all the
> traffic in the pattern. :
> o Yikes!
>
> Anyway, thanks again for sharing your data with us.
>
> Don Hull
> Decatur, Al
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: long power out glide question
>
>
> Hi Larry
>
> Thanks, it was a long 8 minutes or so.
>
> I should rephrase my statement - yes, I did have time to experiment with
> airspeed. So I should state that my minimum descent rate was obtained on
> that day with that gross weight (approx 1550 lbs) at 87 mph (prop
> stopped).
>
> Any faster airspeed and the sink rate went up and any slower and it went
> up.
>
> I also found the prop would stop rotating at 110 mph. So it was not best
> glide, as you point out, but minimum sink rate. Fortunately, when I punch
> up the nst on my Garmin 195 it showed the two closest airports both 12
> miles away - one slightly to my right was up wind and the other over my
> left rear quarter was down wind. Recalling from my old days of flying an
> Aronica Champ, I knew that downwind would buy me much more distance so
> made
> a 120 deg turn to Winchester and needless to say it turn out OK.
>
> Ed
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: long power out glide question
>
>
>>
>> Ed,
>>
>> Nice job on getting the plane down safely.
>>
>> I am curious about the statement "best glide was 87 MPH." Is this
>> something
>> you determined before hand? It sounds like you determined it during the
>> event.
>>
>> Remember that best glide is not the same as minimum descent rate.
>>
>>
>> On 8/10/05 7:02 AM, "Ed Anderson" wrote:
>>
>>> -->
>>>
>>> Hi Charlie,
>>>
>>> Glided my RV-6A 12 miles from 9500 MSL engine-out (prop stopped) to a
>>> safe
>>> touch down at Winchester, TN. Best glide was 87 MPH. Ended up with
>>> excess
>>> altitude (if there is any such thing {:>)) ) and had to do a 360 and a
>>> couple of hard "S" turns to get it down.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Larry Pardue
>> Carlsbad, NM
>>
>> RV-6 N441LP Flying
>> http://n5lp.net
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Source for Cherry CR3214-4-4? |
I backed myself in a corner (long story), and now I need two Cherry
Max CR3214-4-4 rivets (plus one spare just in case I screw up putting
one in). These are the 1/8" dia ones, but with the NAS1097 reduced
size heads. I can buy 100 of them for $52 from General Aircraft
Hardware, but I wonder if anyone knows of a place where I could
purchase three of them.
Any pointers?
Thanks,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Did you happen to take before and after pics of the cylinder head
flashing? I'll probably do the same to my engine when down for annual.
Pictures would help me understand exactly what I'm trying to achieve...
Thx,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Wheeler North said:
>
> Actually,
>
> in the four cyl lycs, number 3 tappet oil comes right off the very
> beginning
> of the oil feed gallery, which is what feeds the oil to the cyl heads via
> the push rods.
>
> But that said, that gallery that feeds the tappets is very large so I
> would
> expect that they all see the same amount of flow at 50+ psi.
>
> Since clearing my cooling fin flashing on the fins between the spark plugs
> on all cylinders, number 3 is only hottest during full power ops, at all
> other time 1, 2, & 3 all remain close and will vary as to which is
> hottest.
> Number 4 is always colder, probably due to being a carbureted engine which
> is also probably what causes 3 to be hot during full power. The whole idea
> of a pressure air plenum is to keep delta P across each cylinder equal.
>
> RE Piston spray nozzles, these are used on most of the injected engines
> and
> or high compression helo engines where they are extracting slightly more
> horsepower out of each cylinder. In the parallel valve group they use the
> same or similar cylinders so to reject the extra heat they install piston
> spray nozzles off the gallery that carries oil to the tappets and to the
> cam
> spray holes. If I remember correctly these nozzles have a pressure valve
> that opens above 37 psi so that under low RPM/oil flow conditions they
> remain closed ensuring adequate flow to other areas during operating times
> where high heat is not being developed.
>
> They actually don't spray much but rather shoot a stream across the case
> onto the bottom of the opposing piston. But I imagine stream this gets
> fairly blasted as the piston trucking right along.
>
> That said, the cam spray nozzles also rain oil down upon the crank, along
> with all the oil the crank is throwing from the mains and con rod
> bearings.
> So foam and oil vapor is very prevalent regardless of oil sump contents.
>
> I would expect its more of an issue about condensation and defoaming area
> as
> well as the route case gasses flow. If the sump is full there is very
> little
> oil pool surface area to condensate the vapor, nor is there much volume
> for
> the foam to degas. As well the internal case flow for air/bypass gasses is
> going to be out the two back slots, and down the three sump slots with
> lower
> a oil level, but if those lower slots are full of oil/foam, the gasses,
> and
> possibly foam has to go out the back slots, and up into the accessory
> case.
>
> W
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cutter" <rcutter(at)cupower.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for Cherry CR3214-4-4? |
Kevin,
I went to my local FBO parts counter. I paid about $1 ea for them, but then
I didn't have to buy 100 either.
RVRC
Robert Cutter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: RV-List: Source for Cherry CR3214-4-4?
>
> I backed myself in a corner (long story), and now I need two Cherry
> Max CR3214-4-4 rivets (plus one spare just in case I screw up putting
> one in). These are the 1/8" dia ones, but with the NAS1097 reduced
> size heads. I can buy 100 of them for $52 from General Aircraft
> Hardware, but I wonder if anyone knows of a place where I could
> purchase three of them.
>
> Any pointers?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for Cherry CR3214-4-4? |
Try Skybolt. The company that makes 1/4 turn camloc fasterners, not the kit company!!!
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glaesers" <glaesers(at)wideopenwest.com> |
I haven't done it, and I don't remember where I saw the description, but the
process is simple:
- Epoxy weight (i.e. lead shot) in the LE area of the fairing so that it
balances about the axle point.
Can't help with tire balance...
Dennis Glaeser
RV7A - Wings just arrived today
>I checked the archives but did not come away with much help. Can anyone
>describe how they have balanced their nose gear and main fairings. My nose
>gear pulses about 1/2" in level flight. Also any advice on how to
>effectively balance the tires?
>
>Thanks
>John
>RIVA 425 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Separator |
version=3.0.2
Jeff, something amiss here, the filter taked about 1/2 qt, should show a
diff on stick, Charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Separator
Somewhat related.....
Ive noticed when doing my oil changes that putting 6 qts in brings my
dipstick reading to 8. Even after running the engine and getting it warm
enough to get to the filter, it still reads very near 8. Hmmmm.
There were some c-172's on the field with io360's and I tried their
dipsticks but they were way too long.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Separator
>
> Jim Cimino wrote:
>
>>
>>The rods and crankshaft are pressure fed in a Lycoming Engine and the
>>crankshaft is in the middle of the engine. If you drop the sump, there is
>>no direct access from there to the rods or crankshaft, so I don't
>>understand
>>how keeping the sump full adds to the possibility of the rods coming in
>>contact with the oil?
>>
> If you do drop the pan and look closely at the case parting liine,
> you'll see some oval holes that the oil drains down through to the sump
> after it's done it's job lubricating things.
>
>> I know that can happen in a car engine, but I don't
>>see that having any bearing on an aircraft engine.
>>
> It really doesn't. I believe that if you put all 8 quarts (or whatever
> is 'full' for your engine) in, the level will rise above the level of
> the sump into the crank cavity where it's whipped a little and goes out
> the crankcase vent. I also think that when the level gets down to 6
> qts, the oil level is down in the sump. It would be easy to check by
> comparing the level of the 8 qt mark on the dipstick to the level of the
> dipstick tube. The next time I have the cowl off, I'll check. Y'all
> can do the same and report back.
>
>> I think what causes most oil loss is just simple blow-by.
>>
> I think you're right!
>
>> These engine get a lot of oil to the tops
>>of the cylinders and some is going to get past the guides and seals and
>>into
>>the combustion chamber, the more oil you put up there, the more gets by.
>>
> I don't think this is true. There is some oil pumped to the rocker area
> through the pushrods ..... and that oil really aids in cooling ....
> especially the exhaust valve. Keep an eye on CHTs for #3, as it's
> typically the hottest .... and has the lowest amount of oil flow due to
> it being at the end of the oil gallery.
>
>> By flipping a plane around, you may increase it.
>>
> Nah. Almost all the oil goes out the breather or your inverted oil
> system if you have one. On a tight engine, (read good cylinders and
> rings) the amount burned is negligible compared to what you'll dump
> overboard doing akro ..... unless you're really good and only pull + Gs.
>
>> Lycoming also states that it is safe to fly an IO-360 on as little as
>> two quarts, but the additional oil helps provide cooling.
>>
> True. However, if you fill the oil to the 'full' mark (8 qts), you'll
> lose the first two rapidly out the breather. Bill Gunn has already
> covered WHY it says fill to 8 qts!!!
> Linn
>
>>Jim
>>
>>Jim Cimino
>>N7TL
>>RV-8 S/N 80039
>>150+ Hours
>>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Separator
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
>>>To:
>>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil Separator
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I had an interesting conversation with a Lycoming engineer several
>>>>>years
>>>>>ago. Q: why does a full (8 quarts in most 4 cylinder engines, 12 quarts
>>>>>in
>>>>>most 6 cylinder engines) sump either burn or blow out oil? Why mark the
>>>>>dip stick to a quantity that will not remain in the engine? Is there
>>>>>any
>>>>>harm is running less oil in the sump on a routine basis? Answer:
>>>>>regulations !
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>The regulations maybe explain some of it, but I'd still be curious why
>>>>the
>>>>sump level would cause oil to go to the very top of the engine and out
>>>>the
>>>>breather.
>>>>
>>>>BTW, I have the Christen system and never have any oil overboard, and I
>>>>fill
>>>>it to 8 qts. I consider those last two quarts as insurance.
>>>>
>>>>Alex Peterson
>>>>RV6A N6AP 651 hours
>>>>Maple Grove, MN
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>The answer is that the oil doesn't "go to the very top of the engine and
>>>out
>>>the breather"... What happens is that the higher oil level means the oil
>>>is
>>>that much closer to the crankshaft and rods, which means the
>>>reciprocating
>>>parts are that much more likely to come into contact with the oil in the
>>>pan during any uncoordinated turns, climbs, or unusual attitude
>>>maneuvers.
>>>When that happens, the oil splashes around, and some is turned into
>>>droplets
>>>and goes out the breather.
>>>
>>>By the way, I notice that I get far less oil on the belly if I keep the
>>>greasy side down. My Oshkosh trip this year was Atlanta to Minneapolis
>>>to
>>>Oshkosh to Chicago to Ann Arbor and back to Atlanta. With my wife along,
>>>I
>>>was under a strict edict to fly smooth, and as level as possible. I
>>>don't
>>>have the hours handy, but I'm guessing 12-14 or so for the total trip. I
>>>didn't add any oil and the belly was relatively clean when I got home.
>>>In
>>>the same number of hours of local flying, I'd probably do 25 rolls, a
>>>number
>>>of wing overs, some lazy 8's, and several other positive G maneuvers.
>>>Over
>>>that span, I'd need to add at least a quart of oil and the airplane's
>>>belly
>>>would be a mess...
>>>
>>>Kyle Boatright
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Auto pilot disconect control in stick question |
autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.2
I am waivering on the value of haveing the servo disconect in the stick, would
also need one for the alt hold disc if I were to do so. One I would have to buy
and install a multi button thingy on the handle,two at my age I suffer from
CRS, and am afraid I will be pushing one of the disconects while trying to transmit,
thand ree I spent the entire afternoon just reinstalling the aileron bellcrank
(pesky spacers). Would apreciate input as to usefulness of this feature,
(I have a trio but info on your brand will work.)
Charlie heathco, Boerne Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Hine <rv4flyer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for Cherry CR3214-4-4? |
Kevin
I have a large box of Cherry Max rivits I acquired a while ago. There
is a variety of sizes, but I have no idea if the size you need is
there. I am away until sunday evening. If you don't have a solution
by then, I can check and see if I can find what you need. If I there
are any there, you can have them.
Joe
On 8/10/05, Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> I backed myself in a corner (long story), and now I need two Cherry
> Max CR3214-4-4 rivets (plus one spare just in case I screw up putting
> one in). These are the 1/8" dia ones, but with the NAS1097 reduced
> size heads. I can buy 100 of them for $52 from General Aircraft
> Hardware, but I wonder if anyone knows of a place where I could
> purchase three of them.
>
> Any pointers?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto pilot disconect control in stick question |
charlie heathco wrote:
>
> I am waivering on the value of haveing the servo disconect in the
> stick, would also need one for the alt hold disc if I were to do so.
> One I would have to buy and install a multi button thingy on the
> handle,two at my age I suffer from CRS, and am afraid I will be
> pushing one of the disconects while trying to transmit, thand ree I
> spent the entire afternoon just reinstalling the aileron bellcrank
> (pesky spacers). Would apreciate input as to usefulness of this
> feature, (I have a trio but info on your brand will work.) Charlie
> heathco, Boerne Tx
I have a servo disconnect switch (which also is used to enter Pilot
Command Steering mode) located on the panel just above the throttle. I
can hit the switch (or hold it for the Steering mode) with my hand on
the throttle. In my opinion the remote switch isn't a high priority,
just one of those things you can add if it is convenient.
Since the AlTrak switch is large, located on the panel in front of me
under the main power switch for the unit, I haven't felt the need to
install a remote disconnect switch.
The setup can be seen on this page:
http://thervjournal.com/panel_photo_8-05.html
Altrak activate and power switch are on left end of panel, and EZ-Pilot
disconnect is the red push-button right above the throttle.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for Cherry CR3214-4-4? |
Joe,
Thanks for the offer. And thank you to the guys who provided good
hints on where to look, and to Larry Bowen who also offered to send
me some from his private stash.
I'm going to run the various leads to ground, and Larry will send me
some if they don't pan out.
Kevin
On 10 Aug 2005, at 23:43, Joe Hine wrote:
>
> Kevin
>
> I have a large box of Cherry Max rivits I acquired a while ago. There
> is a variety of sizes, but I have no idea if the size you need is
> there. I am away until sunday evening. If you don't have a solution
> by then, I can check and see if I can find what you need. If I there
> are any there, you can have them.
>
> Joe
>
> On 8/10/05, Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>>
>> I backed myself in a corner (long story), and now I need two Cherry
>> Max CR3214-4-4 rivets (plus one spare just in case I screw up putting
>> one in). These are the 1/8" dia ones, but with the NAS1097 reduced
>> size heads. I can buy 100 of them for $52 from General Aircraft
>> Hardware, but I wonder if anyone knows of a place where I could
>> purchase three of them.
>>
>> Any pointers?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>> Ottawa, Canada
>> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto pilot disconect control in stick question |
autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.3
I have my disconnect switch as the pinky button on my infinity grip.
Since I have TruTrak for both axis, the disconnect works for both (the
pictorial pilot and the altrack are connected together). I do find it
useful, I use it all the time to disconnect. It will also connect the
pictorial pilot, but not the altrack., but I normally engage with the
buttons on the panel.
John
charlie heathco wrote:
>
>I am waivering on the value of haveing the servo disconect in the stick, would
also need one for the alt hold disc if I were to do so. One I would have to buy
and install a multi button thingy on the handle,two at my age I suffer from
CRS, and am afraid I will be pushing one of the disconects while trying to transmit,
thand ree I spent the entire afternoon just reinstalling the aileron bellcrank
(pesky spacers). Would apreciate input as to usefulness of this feature,
(I have a trio but info on your brand will work.)
>Charlie heathco, Boerne Tx
>
>
>.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
A friend has his fuel vent speed fairings for sale. Carbon Fiber, light as a
feather and strong enough to stand on. $30 a pair. Pictures available if
requested. He is also perfecting fairings for Fuel drains, aileron hinge and
rudder cables. Let me know if interested.
John
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto pilot disconect control in stick question |
Since you can easily overpower the auto pilot(s) in an emergency, I would
suggest not adding complexity by putting one on the stick.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Auto pilot disconect control in stick question
>
> I am waivering on the value of haveing the servo disconect in the stick,
> would also need one for the alt hold disc if I were to do so. One I would
> have to buy and install a multi button thingy on the handle,two at my age
> I suffer from CRS, and am afraid I will be pushing one of the disconects
> while trying to transmit, thand ree I spent the entire afternoon just
> reinstalling the aileron bellcrank (pesky spacers). Would apreciate input
> as to usefulness of this feature, (I have a trio but info on your brand
> will work.)
> Charlie heathco, Boerne Tx
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed fairings |
Does he have documented, scientific, uncontestable speed improvement
numbers?
Send details to my email account: ronlee(at)pcisys.net
Ron Lee
>A friend has his fuel vent speed fairings for sale. Carbon Fiber, light as a
>feather and strong enough to stand on. $30 a pair. Pictures available if
>requested. He is also perfecting fairings for Fuel drains, aileron hinge and
>rudder cables. Let me know if interested.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Auto pilot disconect control in stick question |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I have AP enagage/disengage on my infinity stick and use it almost
exclusively for my trutrak AP. When I flew with Alex D. in Dallas for
trans. training, he demonstrated that the stick switch will disengage the
AP immediately, while the knob on the AP has to be held in for 3 seconds
(?) to disengage. I prefer "right-now". Your AP may be different, but
this is why I did it on mine. Simple to do. No regrets.
Cheers,
-
Larry Bowen, Rv-8, ~120 Hrs
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Jeff Dowling said:
>
>
> Since you can easily overpower the auto pilot(s) in an emergency, I would
> suggest not adding complexity by putting one on the stick.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 235 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Auto pilot disconect control in stick question
>
>
>>
>> I am waivering on the value of haveing the servo disconect in the stick,
>> would also need one for the alt hold disc if I were to do so. One I
>> would
>> have to buy and install a multi button thingy on the handle,two at my
>> age
>> I suffer from CRS, and am afraid I will be pushing one of the disconects
>> while trying to transmit, thand ree I spent the entire afternoon just
>> reinstalling the aileron bellcrank (pesky spacers). Would apreciate
>> input
>> as to usefulness of this feature, (I have a trio but info on your brand
>> will work.)
>> Charlie heathco, Boerne Tx
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Absolutely NOT
jf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Speed fairings |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hi John,
Its drag reduction drag reduction to get the last bit of speed
or best economy. They (?) did a study during WWII on drag on fighters.
It was interesting on how much it effected the top speed. Covered each
item small or large as they removed or streamlined the items. Van's are
very good and I've thought about the fuel drain valves as a good drag
reduction point. The rudder cable exits also and the air entrance to the
cowling. There was an article in one of the magazines that followed two
"6's" as they did several things that got their top speeds up to around
205 mph or so. Not alot of things but each did a bit and they added up.
Jim Nelson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Five0Gulf(at)aol.com |
Saturday October 8, 2005 (Rain Date Sunday Oct.9, 2005) EAA Chapter 898 will
be hosting a FLY IN at Robert J Miller Airport. All are welcome! Please come
out & enjoy our club's Second Annual FLY IN. We hope to have lots of home
built planes on display. We'd like to see as many RV'rs as possible. Food &
drinks will be available for purchase. Door prizes will be given away at noon!
Hours are 8 til 3. Hope to see you there!
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov> |
What's the identifier?...or at least the city and state!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Five0Gulf(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: FLY IN @MJX
Saturday October 8, 2005 (Rain Date Sunday Oct.9, 2005) EAA Chapter 898
will
be hosting a FLY IN at Robert J Miller Airport. All are welcome! Please
come
out & enjoy our club's Second Annual FLY IN. We hope to have lots of home
built planes on display. We'd like to see as many RV'rs as possible. Food &
drinks will be available for purchase. Door prizes will be given away at
noon!
Hours are 8 til 3. Hope to see you there!
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wendy Jenks <godsbreath75(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speed fairings |
hey you know what a real drag is. it's a real drag getting all these e-mails
Hi John,
Its drag reduction drag reduction to get the last bit of speed
or best economy. They (?) did a study during WWII on drag on fighters.
It was interesting on how much it effected the top speed. Covered each
item small or large as they removed or streamlined the items. Van's are
very good and I've thought about the fuel drain valves as a good drag
reduction point. The rudder cable exits also and the air entrance to the
cowling. There was an article in one of the magazines that followed two
"6's" as they did several things that got their top speeds up to around
205 mph or so. Not alot of things but each did a bit and they added up.
Jim Nelson
Blessings,
Wendy
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Hey John,
Why don't you upload some pictures to the Matronics list photo share so
interested parties can look at them?
Thanks,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Furey
Subject: RV-List: Speed fairings
A friend has his fuel vent speed fairings for sale. Carbon Fiber, light
as a
feather and strong enough to stand on. $30 a pair. Pictures available if
requested. He is also perfecting fairings for Fuel drains, aileron hinge
and
rudder cables. Let me know if interested.
John
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Auto pilot disconect control in stick question |
Hey Larry,
How is that wired? Is it momentary or an on/off switch?
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto pilot disconect control in stick question
I have AP enagage/disengage on my infinity stick and use it almost
exclusively for my trutrak AP. When I flew with Alex D. in Dallas for
trans. training, he demonstrated that the stick switch will disengage
the
AP immediately, while the knob on the AP has to be held in for 3 seconds
(?) to disengage. I prefer "right-now". Your AP may be different, but
this is why I did it on mine. Simple to do. No regrets.
Cheers,
-
Larry Bowen, Rv-8, ~120 Hrs
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Jeff Dowling said:
>
>
> Since you can easily overpower the auto pilot(s) in an emergency, I
would
> suggest not adding complexity by putting one on the stick.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 235 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Auto pilot disconect control in stick question
>
>
>>
>> I am waivering on the value of haveing the servo disconect in the
stick,
>> would also need one for the alt hold disc if I were to do so. One I
>> would
>> have to buy and install a multi button thingy on the handle,two at my
>> age
>> I suffer from CRS, and am afraid I will be pushing one of the
disconects
>> while trying to transmit, thand ree I spent the entire afternoon just
>> reinstalling the aileron bellcrank (pesky spacers). Would apreciate
>> input
>> as to usefulness of this feature, (I have a trio but info on your
brand
>> will work.)
>> Charlie heathco, Boerne Tx
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary L. Gembala" <wcruiser1(at)wowway.com> |
Robert J. Miller Air Park (MJX)
TOMS RIVER, NJ
Publicly Owned, Public Use
5.0 mi. SW of city.
N39-55.65 W074-17.54
Mag Var: 12 deg W
Phone: 732-797-1077 Fax: 732-797-0789
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov>
Subject: RE: RV-List: FLY IN @MJX
>
> What's the identifier?...or at least the city and state!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Five0Gulf(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: FLY IN @MJX
>
>
> Saturday October 8, 2005 (Rain Date Sunday Oct.9, 2005) EAA Chapter 898
> will
> be hosting a FLY IN at Robert J Miller Airport. All are welcome! Please
> come
> out & enjoy our club's Second Annual FLY IN. We hope to have lots of home
> built planes on display. We'd like to see as many RV'rs as possible. Food
&
>
> drinks will be available for purchase. Door prizes will be given away at
> noon!
> Hours are 8 til 3. Hope to see you there!
>
> Walt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Avionics harness |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
Fellow Listers:
There is a company I believe in Salt Lake that was producing plug and play
avionics wiring harnesses. I can't recall their name. Do any of you know
who I am trying to track down?
Thanks
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <groves(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics harness |
I think you are looking for "Approach systems"
Best of luck
Kirk RV-8 fuse
>
> From: Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
> Date: 2005/08/11 Thu PM 07:07:24 EDT
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Avionics harness
>
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> There is a company I believe in Salt Lake that was producing plug and play
> avionics wiring harnesses. I can't recall their name. Do any of you know
> who I am trying to track down?
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> Hudson, WI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Auto pilot disconect control in stick question |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
From memory, grounding one of the pins on the AP toggles engage/disengage.
The switch on the stick is momentary. See the installation diagrams for
verification:
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/ttfsinstallations.html
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Ed Holyoke said:
>
> Hey Larry,
>
> How is that wired? Is it momentary or an on/off switch?
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto pilot disconect control in stick question
>
>
> I have AP enagage/disengage on my infinity stick and use it almost
> exclusively for my trutrak AP. When I flew with Alex D. in Dallas for
> trans. training, he demonstrated that the stick switch will disengage
> the
> AP immediately, while the knob on the AP has to be held in for 3 seconds
> (?) to disengage. I prefer "right-now". Your AP may be different, but
> this is why I did it on mine. Simple to do. No regrets.
>
> Cheers,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen, Rv-8, ~120 Hrs
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> Jeff Dowling said:
>>
>>
>> Since you can easily overpower the auto pilot(s) in an emergency, I
> would
>> suggest not adding complexity by putting one on the stick.
>>
>> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>> RV-6A, N915JD
>> 235 hours
>> Chicago/Louisville
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
>> To:
>> Subject: RV-List: Auto pilot disconect control in stick question
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I am waivering on the value of haveing the servo disconect in the
> stick,
>>> would also need one for the alt hold disc if I were to do so. One I
>>> would
>>> have to buy and install a multi button thingy on the handle,two at my
>>> age
>>> I suffer from CRS, and am afraid I will be pushing one of the
> disconects
>>> while trying to transmit, thand ree I spent the entire afternoon just
>>> reinstalling the aileron bellcrank (pesky spacers). Would apreciate
>>> input
>>> as to usefulness of this feature, (I have a trio but info on your
> brand
>>> will work.)
>>> Charlie heathco, Boerne Tx
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Ed, I have been trying to upload pictures to myphotoalbum but having no
luck. I'm not very techi. If I send them to you can you post them?
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo(at)verizon.net> |
Thanks to all the replies on the rudder forward edge rolling. I didn't
worry about the few small spaces and as a result finished the rudder
last night. May seem strange but this is the first section finished.
Short story, I messed up a skin on the VS and had to reorder, so I went
on to the rudder. Now I will go back to the VS and finish it up. It is
all dimpled and primed. Time to put the puzzle back together.. Did
everyone else get that big sigh of relief after a section was complete.
Makes me feel like I can really do this.
Rick Leach
Rudder done, vs maybe this weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Avionics harness |
Doug,
I think this is who you are looking for: http://www.approach-systems.com/
I understand John Stark avionics will now wire avionics that you buy from
them for the Approach hub if you want.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
Fellow Listers:
There is a company I believe in Salt Lake that was producing plug and play
avionics wiring harnesses. I can't recall their name. Do any of you know
who I am trying to track down?
Thanks
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto pilot disconect control in stick question |
It's true you should be able to overpower an autopilot servo, more often the
control stick/wheel autopilot switch function is used for "control wheel
steering". The switch is held in with the autopilot engaged, while holding
the switch the airplane is maneuvered to a new attitude. When the switch is
released the autopilot maintains the new attitude. The function is very
similar to clicking the speed control accelerate or coast button on your
cars speed control. Some autopilots may not support this function. There
are usually three ways to turn off or at least disconnect an autopilot,
power switch, engagement switch, and circuit breaker. All methods of
disconnect should be memorized.
Dick Sipp
RV4 700hours
RV10 fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto pilot disconect control in stick question
>
>
> Since you can easily overpower the auto pilot(s) in an emergency, I would
> suggest not adding complexity by putting one on the stick.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 235 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Auto pilot disconect control in stick question
>
>
>>
>> I am waivering on the value of haveing the servo disconect in the stick,
>> would also need one for the alt hold disc if I were to do so. One I would
>> have to buy and install a multi button thingy on the handle,two at my age
>> I suffer from CRS, and am afraid I will be pushing one of the disconects
>> while trying to transmit, thand ree I spent the entire afternoon just
>> reinstalling the aileron bellcrank (pesky spacers). Would apreciate input
>> as to usefulness of this feature, (I have a trio but info on your brand
>> will work.)
>> Charlie heathco, Boerne Tx
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Assembly Question??? |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
I am at the step where I rivet the wing skins on, the instructions tell me to put
the fuel tanks on and put the screws in every other hole and put bolts in have
th z-
braces attached to the spar... is this the final assembly of the tanks on the wing
or do I have to remove them later? if this is the final assembly, I would
rather put all
the bolts in the z-braces so I am not trying to do it later through the access
holes in the bottom of the wing. I also would like to torque the bolts to their
final torque if I
know they are not coming off again...
P.S. It seems like if you were to take them out and put them back in they would
not fit as snug and that would be bad...
Please respond asap if you can, thanks.
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Assembly Question??? |
I used all of the bolts, torqued 'em, and my tanks haven't been off since.
Pretty sure they make mention of the option of removing the tanks later when
mating the wings to the fuselage, in order to make room to stand in front of
the spar. I imagine that does make wing mating slightly easier, but it's
not like it's that difficult with the tanks ON.
I personally think this may have made more of a difference back when a
monkey *couldn't* mate a set of RV wings. With the match drilled
spars/center sections these days, wing mating is a non-event (although still
a notable milestone you should be proud of...not trying to shoot down
anybody's exciting moment!).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (589 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wing Assembly Question???
> I am at the step where I rivet the wing skins on, the instructions tell me
to put the fuel tanks on and put the screws in every other hole and put
bolts in have th z-
> braces attached to the spar... is this the final assembly of the tanks on
the wing or do I have to remove them later? if this is the final assembly,
I would rather put all
> the bolts in the z-braces so I am not trying to do it later through the
access holes in the bottom of the wing. I also would like to torque the
bolts to their final torque if I
> know they are not coming off again...
>
> P.S. It seems like if you were to take them out and put them back in they
would not fit as snug and that would be bad...
>
> Please respond asap if you can, thanks.
>
> - Matt
>
>
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/dpRU5A/wUILAA/yQLSAA/SyTolB/TM
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SoCAL-RVlist/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> SoCAL-RVlist-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Hey John,
Try this:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv-list.html#Top
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Furey
Subject: RE: RV-List: Speed fairings
Ed, I have been trying to upload pictures to myphotoalbum but having no
luck. I'm not very techi. If I send them to you can you post them?
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Bannon" <jack.bannon(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto pilot disconect control in stick questionAuto pilot |
disconect control in stick question
We have the TruTrak pictorial pilot, no AltTrak yet. The switch on the control
stick is very usefull, not only for engaging and disengaging the AP. If a faster
rate of turn is desired... holding the stick disconnect switch in, simply disconnects
the Track hold feature while allowing you to manually apply more bank
and turn faster. Once you release the switch the aircraft will roll out on
the track you were on at the moment of release. The max bank is around 15-18 degrees
with the AP on which gives a very smooth rate of turn (aprox rate 3/4)
under most conditions. If you wished to turn, say, 90 degrees a bit quicker, the
stick switch is very convenient. It is not CWS (control wheel steering), as
it rolls the airplane wings level when the switch is released. It does not maintain
the bank angle when switch released.
The point is well taken that until you get used to it, it is possible to click
the AP switch instead of the transmit switch, which of course disconnects the
AP as long as the switch is held in, and greatly upsets ATC as they wait for you
to answer them. You'll only do it once.
Jack
RV-6a C-GCUN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy - How many more times? |
I went through this as well with my 7A canopy. I think most slider builders
do. When I got to the point where you are now, I stopped work on the canopy
and did something else for a while. Getting back to it later gave me a
fresh look at the problems. You will also "have fun" with the rear skirts. This
has been the most frustrating part of the project so far.
Bob Trumpfheller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> TO END IN 2009 |
| Subject: | Re: SATELLITE PROCESSING OF ELT SIGNALS ON 121.5 MHZ |
TO END IN 2009
I purchased a McMurdo 406 MHz PLB (with GPS) for the improved
position identification capabilities since I fly over mountainous areas
where cell phones don't work and few people are around.
The good thing about it is that rescuers could have an exact position
on you in several minutes versus the ambiguous positioning from
121.5 MHz.
Yes this is not an ELT replacement...just an major capability improvement
using other technology.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: mounting flexible brake lines in 6A |
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Ensing
Subject: mounting flexible brake lines in 6A
To Paul Besing, if your still on the list.
and others who have used flexible brake lines.
How did you mount the flexible brakes lines to the gear legs on your 6A? I am concerned
about abrasion to the paint/ gear leg so I installed a nylon tube "jacket"
over the SS braid . Do you think wraps of duct tape or aluminum foil tape
around the brake line and gear leg would hold up? Also prevent abrasion of the
gear leg by the fiberglass fairing?
Dale Ensing
6A flying 70 hrs.- installing gear and wheel fairings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: mounting flexible brake lines in 6A |
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Ensing
Subject: mounting flexible brake lines in 6A
To Paul Besing, if your still on the list.
and others who have used flexible brake lines.
How did you mount the flexible brakes lines to the gear legs on your 6A? I am concerned
about abrasion to the paint/ gear leg so I installed a nylon tube "jacket"
over the SS braid . Do you think wraps of duct tape or aluminum foil tape
around the brake line and gear leg would hold up? Also prevent abrasion of the
gear leg by the fiberglass fairing?
Dale Ensing
6A flying 70 hrs.- installing gear and wheel fairings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Del 37 degree AN fitting seals |
Hi,
Has anyone ever used these? They seem like
a pretty good idea, but I've never heard of
them before a day or two ago.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/del37fittings.php
Thanks for any feedback.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Overhaul Seminar |
Ever wondered what is involved in overhauling a Lycoming engine? Here's
your chance! On September 24th, join Allen Barrett of Barrett Precision
Engines of Tulsa, OK in the rebuild of a Lycoming O-320 engine. Watch as we
rebuild the entire engine from parts to completion. Gain a better
understanding of the process and costs involved. Learn valuable tips and
tricks from engine builders with over 60 years of experience! Space is
limited.
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~eaa1329/EngineOverhaulSeminar.pdf
<http://home>
Matthew Brandes,
EAA Chapter 1329 President
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I sent the fuel vent pictures to pictures(at)matronics.com how can i see if
they are available for viewing?
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Del 37 degree AN fitting seals |
>Hi,
>
>Has anyone ever used these? They seem like
>a pretty good idea, but I've never heard of
>them before a day or two ago.
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/del37fittings.php
>
>Thanks for any feedback.
>
>Mickey
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 finishing
I think they're great. I couldn't get my steel on steel fittings to stop
seeping (oil hoses at oil cooler) until I used them. They stop the leaks
pronto.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Avionics Idea... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Does anyone have any idea of an instrument that either does not exist or where
whats available on the market is not satisfactory? I am
getting an itch to develop some sort of avionics as I enjoy aviation and I program
software and microcontrollers for a living... you can email
me off-list if anyone has some ideas or feedback...
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
Matt posts them and sends an email to this list (if you specified it as
the list to be notified) saying they are available on the server. As he
says, it is a manual process and may take a day or two.
Dick Tasker
John Furey wrote:
>
>I sent the fuel vent pictures to pictures(at)matronics.com how can i see if
>they are available for viewing?
>
>Thanks
>John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Idea... (not processed: message from valid local |
sender)
On 13:06:10 2005-08-12 "Matt Johnson" wrote:
> Does anyone have any idea of an instrument that either does not exist
> or where whats available on the market is not satisfactory? I am
> getting an itch to develop some sort of avionics as I enjoy aviation
> and I program software and microcontrollers for a living... you can
> email me off-list if anyone has some ideas or feedback...
How about an open-source, open-hardware project to produce an EFIS and/or
engine monitor? It should be possible to build these things for well under
$1K for the hardware. Not to detract from the fine work that Dynon, BMA,
and others have done, but they are costly. We can build airplanes for less
than Cessna, how about some instruments that are cheaper too? :)
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8a Widow's Diary Updated |
| From: | "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall(at)enid.org> |
Happy Friday!!!!!!!!!!!
I have finally finished updating the website (I know it is about time but life
happens) :~)
We just finished getting the Trim Tab installed and working!
Cheers,
Stephanie
www.rv-8a.4t.com
This electronic mail message is intended exclusively for the individual or entity
to which it is addressed. This message, together with any attachment, may contain
confidential and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use,
print, retain, copy, disclosure or distribution is strictly prohibited. If you
have received this message in error, please immediately advise the sender and
delete all copies of this message. Thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
John,
The list will be sent a message when the pix are posted.
Pax,
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Furey
Subject: RV-List: pictures
I sent the fuel vent pictures to pictures(at)matronics.com how can i see
if
they are available for viewing?
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Del 37 degree AN fitting seals |
In a message dated 8/12/2005 2:32:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/del37fittings.php
Mickey,
The Saturn V plumbing used these at all high pressure joints, working
pressure was upward of 2000 psig. Worked very well there.
Paul
Peachtree City, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Del 37 degree AN fitting seals |
-3 and -4 seals available in copper for higher pressures. -4 thru -12
available in aluminum:
http://pegasusautoracing.com/ProductSelection.asp?Product=3202
(Cost is lower than at Aircraft Spruce.)
Chris Heitman
-----Original Message-----
Has anyone ever used these? They seem like
a pretty good idea, but I've never heard of
them before a day or two ago.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/del37fittings.php
Thanks for any feedback.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Del 37 degree AN fitting seals |
Hi Mickey
Yes, I used the aluminum conical seals. I had a very slow leak in my pitot
tube system when I got it check for IFR certification. Nothing worked and I
didn't want to cut/pull the aluminum tubing I was using for the pitot tube.
I tried some of the -6 aluminum conical washers on top of the male fittings
and they completely eliminated the leak.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Del 37 degree AN fitting seals
>
> -3 and -4 seals available in copper for higher pressures. -4 thru -12
> available in aluminum:
>
> http://pegasusautoracing.com/ProductSelection.asp?Product=3202
>
> (Cost is lower than at Aircraft Spruce.)
>
> Chris Heitman
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Has anyone ever used these? They seem like
> a pretty good idea, but I've never heard of
> them before a day or two ago.
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/del37fittings.php
>
> Thanks for any feedback.
>
> Mickey
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 finishing
>
> --
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Garmin GPS / Trio EZ-Pilot question |
Stormy's hunting a newer GPS to drive his Trio A/P installation, and wondering
two things about NMEA outputs:
The GPSmap 396 online owner's manual says the unit can be programmed for "fast"
one-second output intervals; the 296's manual does not mention this particualr
capability. Any 296 users out there know if your unit will run at the one-second
output rate, or is 2 seconds all she'll do?
Secondly, is there that much of a drawback to having two-second GPS data updates
as far as tracking the flight plan with the EZ-Pilot? I know that one second
updates are preferred (and standard for panel-mount GPS's), but wondering how
much practical difference has been noticed in the air.
If this is a real issue, I might have to spring for the 396, which is truly more
$$$ than I want to spend right now; if not, I'd be happy with the 296. Currently
using an Airmap 500- nice GPS, but too tiny for my presbyopic eyes since
I hit the big 4-9 :-)
Thanks for the input, gang.
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bayne Just" <bjust(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS / Trio EZ-Pilot question |
The 296 manual, page 118 states, "The GPSMAP 296 NMEA data transmission can
be customized to keep the output rate at two seconds. If the unit is set up
to output all of the available NMEA sentences, the output rate may exceed
two seconds."
----- Original Message -----
From: <sportav8r(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin GPS / Trio EZ-Pilot question
>
> Stormy's hunting a newer GPS to drive his Trio A/P installation, and
wondering two things about NMEA outputs:
>
> The GPSmap 396 online owner's manual says the unit can be programmed for
"fast" one-second output intervals; the 296's manual does not mention this
particualr capability. Any 296 users out there know if your unit will run
at the one-second output rate, or is 2 seconds all she'll do?
>
> Secondly, is there that much of a drawback to having two-second GPS data
updates as far as tracking the flight plan with the EZ-Pilot? I know that
one second updates are preferred (and standard for panel-mount GPS's), but
wondering how much practical difference has been noticed in the air.
>
> If this is a real issue, I might have to spring for the 396, which is
truly more $$$ than I want to spend right now; if not, I'd be happy with the
296. Currently using an Airmap 500- nice GPS, but too tiny for my
presbyopic eyes since I hit the big 4-9 :-)
>
> Thanks for the input, gang.
>
> -Stormy
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Idea... |
rv-list(at)matronics.com schrieb am 12.08.05 22:33:48:
Hello Matt,
its a very good idea. I am a German builder,living near Frankfurt, beginning my RV 7A now and looking for a special equipment. The most programs during flight I need are on my laptop. For example Fly-Map or Jepp-View. But a laptop is to bulky in a cockpit and the screen is very bad readable. What I need ist a panel-built-in screen ( about 8-10") connect with a small computer and a wireless keyboard and an USB-Port for data exchange with my laptop. I have seen a t-BagC2 on the sun and fun but it is very expensive. About 5K$. ( www.navaero.com ).
Sorry for my bad english.
Detlef Heun
Does anyone have any idea of an instrument that either does not exist or where
whats available on the market is not satisfactory? I am
getting an itch to develop some sort of avionics as I enjoy aviation and I program
software and microcontrollers for a living... you can email
me off-list if anyone has some ideas or feedback...
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Vic Skodzinsky ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Vic Skodzinsky
Lists: RV-List,Rocket-List
Subject: Speed fairings for fuel vents
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/john@fureychrysler.com.08.13.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin GPS / Trio EZ-Pilot question |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Garmin just introducded a 5 hz (5 times per second) remote GPS WAAS module. Sounds like it would be a great fit for your need. http://www.garmin.com/products/gps185hz/ Scott7A Fuse in 3 weekswww.scottsrv7a.com--- On Sat 08/13, sportav8r@aol.com wrote:From: [mailto: sportav8r@aol.com]To: rv-list@matronics.comDate: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 10:05:45 -0400Subject: RV-List: Garmin GPS / Trio EZ-Pilot question-- RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.comStormy's hunting a newer GPS to drive his Trio A/P installation, and wondering two things about NMEA outputs:The GPSmap 396 online owner's manual says the unit can be programmed for "fast" one-second output intervals; the 296's manual does not mention this particualr capability. Any 296 users out there know if your unit will run at the one-second output rate, or is 2 seconds all she'll do?Secondly, is there that much of a drawback to having two-second GPS data updates as far as tracking the flight plan with the EZ-Pilot? I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics Idea... |
>
>
> Hello Matt,
>
> its a very good idea. I am a German builder,living near Frankfurt,
> beginning my RV 7A now and looking for a special equipment. The most
> programs during flight I need are on my laptop. For example Fly-Map or
> Jepp-View. But a laptop is to bulky in a cockpit and the screen is very bad
> readable. What I need ist a panel-built-in screen ( about 8-10") connect
> with a small computer and a wireless keyboard and an USB-Port for data
> exchange with my laptop. I have seen a t-BagC2 on the sun and fun but it is
> very expensive. About 5K$. ( www.navaero.com <http://www.navaero.com> ).
> Sorry for my bad english.
>
> Detlef Heun
>
>
> Does anyone have any idea of an instrument that either does not exist or
> where whats available on the market is not satisfactory? I am
> getting an itch to develop some sort of avionics as I enjoy aviation and I
> program software and microcontrollers for a living... you can email
> me off-list if anyone has some ideas or feedback...
>
> - Matt
One thought/reminder...
Some people have found that a hard drive will stop working somewhere around
10,000'. The head rides on a cushion of air. when the air gets too thin the
head makes contact with the disk.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Vic Skodzinsky ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Vic Skodzinsky
>
> Lists: RV-List,Rocket-List
>
> Subject: Speed fairings for fuel vents
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/john@fureychrysler.com.08.13.2005/index.html
Very nice! Are these for sale?
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS / Trio EZ-Pilot question |
Personally I doubt that 0.5 HZ is an issue for most straight and level
applications.
I would call Trio and get their input. There may be a standard for IFR use
but off-hand I don't recall if it is 1 or 2 Hz.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Vic Skodzinsky ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
make you sure you all realize that carbon will react with aluminum if not
properly protected...
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: [ Vic Skodzinsky ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Vic Skodzinsky
>
> Lists: RV-List,Rocket-List
>
> Subject: Speed fairings for fuel vents
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/john@fureychrysler.com.08.13.2005/index.html
Very nice! Are these for sale?
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
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| From: | "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Canopy - How many more times? ... I agree !! |
0.37 PLING_QUERY Subject has exclamation mark and question mark
Why should anyone have to battle like this to make a simple component of the
Vans kit fit properly ??
My quick build 8, has been anything but quick build, with fairings to make
up, the canopy to cut and scribe, baggage door to bend, rollbar to mangle,
undercarriage to make fit ... the list is endless, and much of it is a
complete waste of time.
I can only assume that Vans customers put up with this based on the fact
that compared with the RV4 and the slow build kits we are much better
placed. The reality is that like many builders, I am a flyer and want to get
in the air and fly - fiddling with canopies and fairings and the horrendous
cowls is dead time in anybody's life.
We all know how John McD' feels. At the moment there seems to be an
"Emperor's new clothes" syndrome surrounding our kits, with very little
dissent. Wake up Vans please and make life easier for your customers - and
if needs be charge more for a better and more complete product.
Nic
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| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy - How many more times? ... I agree !! |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy - How many more times? ... I agree !!
>
> Why should anyone have to battle like this to make a simple component of
> the
> Vans kit fit properly ??
>
> My quick build 8, has been anything but quick build, with fairings to make
> up, the canopy to cut and scribe, baggage door to bend, rollbar to mangle,
> undercarriage to make fit ... the list is endless, and much of it is a
> complete waste of time.
>
> I can only assume that Vans customers put up with this based on the fact
> that compared with the RV4 and the slow build kits we are much better
> placed. The reality is that like many builders, I am a flyer and want to
> get
> in the air and fly - fiddling with canopies and fairings and the
> horrendous
> cowls is dead time in anybody's life.
>
> We all know how John McD' feels. At the moment there seems to be an
> "Emperor's new clothes" syndrome surrounding our kits, with very little
> dissent. Wake up Vans please and make life easier for your customers -
> and
> if needs be charge more for a better and more complete product.
>
> Nic
Van's kits have evolved tremendously over the years. When computer aided
design became doable for a small organization, they adopted it. Same thing
for CNC punching of parts and matched hole tooling. Don't forget powder
coating and prepreg epoxy cowlings. Shoot, the new fairings, empennage
tips, etc. even fit reasonably well.
At this point, the kits are a great VALUE. No, they are not the best kits
possible, but if Van's created the *perfect* kit, it would probably cost
closer to what the Falco kits do (about $100k for the airframe) than the
~$25,000 a kit from Van's cost. I don't think Van's would have 14,000 or so
kits shipped if each one cost $50, $75, or $100k...
KB
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| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Vic Skodzinsky ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
I think if they are installed with 3M thin double side tape you will be just fine.
Just hope you never want to take them back off. The tape sticks like you welded
together whatever material you're dealing with...
August 03, 2005 - August 13, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-rd