RV-Archive.digest.vol-re
August 13, 2005 - August 22, 2005
Darrell
Bill VonDane wrote:
make you sure you all realize that carbon will react with aluminum if not
properly protected...
----- Original Message -----
| Subject: | Re: [ Vic Skodzinsky ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Vic Skodzinsky
>
> Lists: RV-List,Rocket-List
>
> Subject: Speed fairings for fuel vents
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/john@fureychrysler.com.08.13.2005/index.html
Very nice! Are these for sale?
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best Portable GPS |
I would like feedback on what portable GPS you feel is the best out there as
of today or very soon to be released? Im looking at buying a good one to go
along with a plane purchase.
Im looking for most of the bells and whistles. Color contoured map, and a
simulated HSI (horizontal situational indicator) would be great.
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Rozema <hartist1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Best Portable GPS |
I'm have both their ANYWHERE MAP http://www.controlvision.com/ and
ATTITUDE INDICATOR (HSI) http://www.anywheremap.com/pages/Section_AI.aspx
Zenith CH701 VSTOL w/Jabiru 3300
Hal Rozema
see ThePlaneFolks.Net click on Construction Gallery
Phoenix, AZ
Kevin Williams wrote:
>
>I would like feedback on what portable GPS you feel is the best out there as
>of today or very soon to be released? Im looking at buying a good one to go
>along with a plane purchase.
>
>Im looking for most of the bells and whistles. Color contoured map, and a
>simulated HSI (horizontal situational indicator) would be great.
>
>Kevin
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Davis" <jdavis213899(at)comcast.net> |
No intentions of starting a "primer" debate, but just wanted to share my experiences
with a couple of primers.
I'm a newbie builder, although I've been flying commercially for over 30 years.
I'm building an RV8....just started the empennage and spent MANY hours researching
primers......if I should/should not prime, if prime.....what parts....all
or just some. Long story short....I've decided to prime all internal parts.
I narrowed the primers down to two, Tempo and SEM. After testing both products
on a piece of aluminum, SEM came out on top....hands down. Don't get me wrong,
Tempo self etching primer is good....very good, but SEM was more durable and
had a nicer finish. Plus, after just 30 minutes dry time, I tried to scrape the
finish with my finger nail.....not a scratch. SEM comes in either a rattle
can or bulk quarts and gallons.
I'm not associated with SEM in anyway, just wanted to pass along my experiences.
I would appreciate comments from anyone using SEM primer. So far I've been very
pleased with the product.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
Joe (and anyone else interested), in deciding what primer to use on my
second RV project, I came to same conclusion and am totally happy with it...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm#Primer
I've turned some other local guys onto it and after trying other primers
they love it as well.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
RV-3B, finish
EAA Technical Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Davis" <jdavis213899(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: SEM Primer
>
> No intentions of starting a "primer" debate, but just wanted to share my
> experiences with a couple of primers.
>
> I'm a newbie builder, although I've been flying commercially for over 30
> years. I'm building an RV8....just started the empennage and spent MANY
> hours researching primers......if I should/should not prime, if
> prime.....what parts....all or just some. Long story short....I've decided
> to prime all internal parts. I narrowed the primers down to two, Tempo and
> SEM. After testing both products on a piece of aluminum, SEM came out on
> top....hands down. Don't get me wrong, Tempo self etching primer is
> good....very good, but SEM was more durable and had a nicer finish. Plus,
> after just 30 minutes dry time, I tried to scrape the finish with my
> finger nail.....not a scratch. SEM comes in either a rattle can or bulk
> quarts and gallons.
>
> I'm not associated with SEM in anyway, just wanted to pass along my
> experiences. I would appreciate comments from anyone using SEM primer. So
> far I've been very pleased with the product.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Kellie Hand" <ckhand(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Best Portable GPS |
"Best" will of course be a matter of many opinions, but I just bought the
Lowrance 2000c to replace the Garmin 195 and GPSPilot III that I've been
flying in my Cessna 140 for a while now and I'm very impressed with the
2000c. Check out the Lowrance web site for the features (large screen with
compass overlay displays, EFIS type pages, split maps, HSI page, etc and
comes ready to go for land or marine use too - Map Create software included
along with SD/MMC card reader to save data, maps, routes, etc).
Advertised prices are about $999 but you can get them for $750 to $800 right
now, or about what the black & white Garmin 196 runs, and in my opinion the
features for that price are quite good. I'm planning to mount the 2000c in
my RV-6A panel and have just started using it in my C140 - very happy with
it after just a few flights.
Garmin's 396 appears to be the Cadillac, but the purchase and subscription
prices are more than I can budget for this right now.
Chris Hand
RV-6A, finishing kit stages
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Best Portable GPS
>
> I would like feedback on what portable GPS you feel is the best out there
as
> of today or very soon to be released? Im looking at buying a good one to
go
> along with a plane purchase.
>
> Im looking for most of the bells and whistles. Color contoured map, and a
> simulated HSI (horizontal situational indicator) would be great.
>
> Kevin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
Which SEM part # did you decide on?
No intentions of starting a "primer" debate, but just wanted to share my experiences
with a couple of primers.
I'm a newbie builder, although I've been flying commercially for over 30 years.
I'm building an RV8....just started the empennage and spent MANY hours researching
primers......if I should/should not prime, if prime.....what parts....all
or just some. Long story short....I've decided to prime all internal parts.
I narrowed the primers down to two, Tempo and SEM. After testing both products
on a piece of aluminum, SEM came out on top....hands down. Don't get me wrong,
Tempo self etching primer is good....very good, but SEM was more durable and
had a nicer finish. Plus, after just 30 minutes dry time, I tried to scrape the
finish with my finger nail.....not a scratch. SEM comes in either a rattle
can or bulk quarts and gallons.
I'm not associated with SEM in anyway, just wanted to pass along my experiences.
I would appreciate comments from anyone using SEM primer. So far I've been very
pleased with the product.
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Speed Fairings & Pics |
Thanks to those that got the pictures up. Here is the link to see them.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/john@fureychrysler.com.08.13.2005/index.
html
I am ready to paint mine. Anyone who is interested in purchasing a set for
$30 please contact Vic Skodzinsky directly at vjs406(at)yahoo.com he is a
master craftsman skilled in metal, fiberglass and wood so if you have any
special needs he is the one to hire. He is also working on the fuel drains,
aileron hinge and rudder fairings however these are not available at this
time but if you want them let him know.
Best wishes
John Furey
RV6A - and F1 in the oven
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | replacement Aeroflash position bulb |
I have the Aeroflash Nav/strobe/position light combo in each wingtip. The 040-0002
position bulb burnt out. Looks like these little jewels are about $25 each.
Has anyone researched what the part number for an equivilent GE replacement
bulb would be? Hopefully they are not as pricey.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond OK
RV6 N296JC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Davis" <jdavis213899(at)comcast.net> |
I'm using part #39681. It's a one part primer, very easy to use.....no
mixing or reducing....and any unused primer can be returned to the original
can. It flows very easy from my HVLP gun. P/N 39681 is the gray primer,
however, you can get black or green.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darrell Reiley" <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SEM Primer
>
> Which SEM part # did you decide on?
>
> "Joe Davis"
>
> No intentions of starting a "primer" debate, but just wanted to share my
> experiences with a couple of primers.
>
> I'm a newbie builder, although I've been flying commercially for over 30
> years. I'm building an RV8....just started the empennage and spent MANY
> hours researching primers......if I should/should not prime, if
> prime.....what parts....all or just some. Long story short....I've decided
> to prime all internal parts. I narrowed the primers down to two, Tempo and
> SEM. After testing both products on a piece of aluminum, SEM came out on
> top....hands down. Don't get me wrong, Tempo self etching primer is
> good....very good, but SEM was more durable and had a nicer finish. Plus,
> after just 30 minutes dry time, I tried to scrape the finish with my
> finger nail.....not a scratch. SEM comes in either a rattle can or bulk
> quarts and gallons.
>
> I'm not associated with SEM in anyway, just wanted to pass along my
> experiences. I would appreciate comments from anyone using SEM primer. So
> far I've been very pleased with the product.
>
>
> Darrell Reiley
> Round Rock, Texas
>
> RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
> N622DR (reserved)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Sealer for canopy skirts |
Ok, I think I'm ready to do the final assy. of the canopy and skirts. I
saw last week were someone asked about what to use to seal between the
canpoy and the skirts. Someone said they used Lexel frome a home store.
What is Lexel and what asle would it be on? Is this what I should use?
More comments wanted.
--
------
Surfing the web in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy - How many more times? ... I agree !! |
>
> Along that line I recently spoke with a chap that just
> purchased
> a company that makes these 3/4 scale mustangs (very impressive
> bird). It
> was an internal employee purchase situation. He stated that they
> working
> closely with the FAA on providing much more complete assemblies
> such as
> entire wing/aileron/flap/fuel tank as one part, maybe even gear and
> lights. He believes that the FAA will soon be walking back the 51%
> rule
> primarily for safety. He further stated that that would take his kid
> down to between 600-750 hours from nearly 3,000 hours.
>
Is this the Titan T-51 Mustang? Their web site says the current kit
(i.e. without the more complete assemblies you mention) sells for
$50K. How many of us could have afforded to buy RVs if our kits
cost that much? I know I would never have started building at that
price.
The Titan T-51 has less performance than RVs too. The better
performing kit Mustangs were even more expensive, and both Thunder
Mustang and Stewart went out of business because not enough people
could afford to pay what they needed to charge for kits.
As far as the 51% rule goes, I wonder if the FAA is going the way
things have gone up here in Canada. In Canada builder assistance is
now legal, as long as the builder retains overall control (and
responsibility) for the work. Transport Canada was convinced that
the newer more complex aircraft needed a new approach. They decided
that it was safer to allow builders to purchase outside expert
assistance, rather than force him to muddle through it himself.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
What's up with vansairforce.com :-(
--
------
Surfing the web in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy - How many more times? ... I agree !! |
How about 51% rule?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Nic
Subject: RV-List: Canopy - How many more times? ... I agree !!
Why should anyone have to battle like this to make a simple component of the
Vans kit fit properly ??
My quick build 8, has been anything but quick build, with fairings to make
up, the canopy to cut and scribe, baggage door to bend, rollbar to mangle,
undercarriage to make fit ... the list is endless, and much of it is a
complete waste of time.
I can only assume that Vans customers put up with this based on the fact
that compared with the RV4 and the slow build kits we are much better
placed. The reality is that like many builders, I am a flyer and want to get
in the air and fly - fiddling with canopies and fairings and the horrendous
cowls is dead time in anybody's life.
We all know how John McD' feels. At the moment there seems to be an
"Emperor's new clothes" syndrome surrounding our kits, with very little
dissent. Wake up Vans please and make life easier for your customers - and
if needs be charge more for a better and more complete product.
Nic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Cowl Pins (Glenn Gordon) |
Glenn Gordon you still on this list? I ran across an old post from you. In
that post you mention you "came up with a pretty slick way of securing the
horizontal cowl pins". You didn't have any description but said to email
you directly and you would send pics. I would really like to see those
pics. Could you please send to me at this email address? Thanks.
If anyone else has good ideas for this let me know.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Finally getting to the end!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy - How many more times? ... I agree !! |
One reason the canopies are so hard to fit is that they are not molded but
are blown - in other words they each vary in size somewhat. The benefit of
this approach is the optical prurity achieved at a reasonable price of
production. I agree wholeheartedly that if you want replaceable matched
parts go buy a production plane. But be prepared for paying something like
$600 for something as generic as a throttle cable (I know because I own a
Mooney and had to replace one recently).
The experimental category is not so we can bypass the certification rules
but for "education and recreation". I don't see the FAA changing that
because there is no good way to do that and not make the certifcation rules
a joke. There is not a single task in building an RV that a person cannot
master if they are patient and seek out help in the areas they are not
comfortable. If you just want to fly then buy a completed aircraft -
period. A kit is a kit and 49% of building an airplane is a heck of a lot
of work that needs to be done right - not perfect but right. If you don't
have the time, patience, and at times somewhat obsessive desire to complete
it do yourself a favor and don't start one. The frustration level of
bulding one of these things is high at times even if you like doing it - I
can't imagine doing it if I didn't really enjoy the satisfaction that comes
from learning how to do it myself.
I am rebuilding my RV-4 and have been amazed at how much the parts and kits
have improved even on a model that has not enjoy the complete advancments
the later models enjoy. My friend's RV-8 appears even more refined. One
thing I have learned in building my RV is that in almost 100% of the cases
where I get in a hurry I end up taking more time to complete the task due to
mistakes of workmanship I'm just not happy with later. Slow down and speed
up your build time. You might even come to enjoy it more.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Canopy - How many more times? ... I agree !! |
0.37 PLING_QUERY Subject has exclamation mark and question mark
Jerry S's comments were amusing and stock !
But seriously, if we all had to rate the components of our QB kits on a 1-10
scale, as and when we used them, the results would make interesting if not
wholly unexpected reading. Some components would rate poorly and it is these
that I would like to see improved for future builders. ( A customer
satisfaction questionnaire to be returned at the end of the build ).
Stormy has hit this rivet on the head !
Thousands of builders spend hours making corrections to minor parts, whether
it is splitting the wing tips to straighten and rebond them, making the
canopy skirt fit or countless other small but mind-numbing tasks. Clearly
better design and fabrication by Van's could resolve these issues.
I don't think it is whining to ask for improvements. The Van's aircraft is
hardly a "made in the USA" product anymore, even the Van's coffee mugs have
"made in China" written on them, and if Van's wants to stay a world beater
then it needs to improve where possible,
Surely Jerry can see the irony of a US design which is being built elsewhere
in the world and then takes thousands of US man-hours to put right :)
As for the 51% ruling, this issue should not be used as an excuse for badly
made and fitting parts. By my calculations a hundred hours saved on each kit
which resolved the current problems, would save enough man hours for a
return flight to Saturn - during which time of course there would be plenty
of opportunity for sanding and filling and ...... :)
Nic
"........I'm proud like a moron of all the holes I measured and drilled on
my
slo-bild 6A kit ten years ago, but I agree there's no sense in Van
producing ill-fitting parts on his mass-production CNC tooling and
welding jigs if he can do better. Extra cost should be negligible, but
the time saved by thousands of builders in the field will be
exponentially more than what Van invests to fix any QC issues with his
kits. That minor cost to upgrade tooling becomes miniscule when spread
over thousands of kits later sold. Think about it.
I may have to replace a gear leg or a canopy one day, and the thought
that these are not truly interchangeable parts on my airplane gives me
no comfort and joy. Van could do better, and I hope he's not content to
sit on his laurels, deserved though they are.
-Stormy "
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Pins (Glenn Gordon) |
Dean,
I doubt if Glen Gordon is still on the list. He sold his 6 and I was told by
a mutual friend at OSH that he was not flying currently.
If I remember correctly he used a single SS screw into a plate nut to
capture a bent short leg ,about 1/2 inch,of the pin. I got this idea from
somebody up there and I think it was Glen.
Dale Ensing
"Glenn Gordon you still on this list? I ran across an old post from you.
In
that post you mention you "came up with a pretty slick way of securing the
horizontal cowl pins".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net> |
try vansairforce.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
I don't think it is whining to ask for improvements.
Van's aircraft is hardly a "made in the USA" product anymore, and if Van's
wants to stay a world beater
then it needs to improve where possible.
Believe it or not Van's kits have been improved considerably over the years.
When I do Tech Councilor visits today I am continually impressed by how much
better today's kits are vs. mine purchased in the '90s.
That is not to say there is still not room for improvements.
However, when I chose to build a Van's kit, the overall cost was a
significant factor, along with the performance of the airplane, in my
decision. Some builders ask why Van's doesn't do many the things they could
do. It is not just about the 51% rule. The more the kit manufacture does the
more you will pay for the kit. The home builder has choices to a degree. Do
I do this myself or pay somebody to do it for me?
Dale Ensing
do not achieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best Portable GPS |
Ok I'm now seriously looking at the Garmin 296. However, I have a few
questions regarding the detail of the maps and terrain avoidance.
How accurate is the mapping and specifically the terrain avoidance in
Canada?
Have they released an obstical database for Canada yet?
Any other Canadian use issues I should be aware of?
Also what additional hardware would I need to mount an external GPS antena?
Kev
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
Robert E. Lynch wrote:
>
>try vansairforce.net
>
>
>
Yea, that's what I was trying typed question wrong. The site was down
last night. Back up now.
--
------
Surfing the web in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
I don't know about the .com but the .net was down for hours last night...
Darrell
Bobby Hester wrote:
What's up with vansairforce.com :-(
--
------
Surfing the web in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Advice on Flight Plan from Seattle, WA to Mobile, AL |
Hi John. Looks like u are planning a fun time. Can't help u with routing but
in case u are not aware, AIRNAV.COM will be a BIG help on fuel prices. I use
it for the RV and the Corp. Citation. A couple of places that try to maintain
competitive fuel prices in our part of the country are MEI, 23M & 2R5. Check
them out. They may be out of your way depending on the route. If u get time
I would appreciate any routing & advice u could share with me. Some of us are
planning a trip to Van's homecoming in 2006. We are based in Alabama.
Would like to go out the southern route and return the northern route. Make lots
of fun stops out and back. If u run across and good places on your trip please
pass them on. Hope u have a safe, fun flight. Take care.
Regards,
Doug Preston
RV7 N731RV
BHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Mixture cable too short? |
I started the engine yesterday for the first time. Big event, and it went pretty
well. I knew before the start that my mixture arm was not quite making it to
the idle cutoff stop but that was a compromise I had to make in order to reach
the full rich stop. I would say the idle stop was short by about 1/8 inch, just
enough to cause the engine to continue to run with the mixture lever off.
Prior to the start, and months ago while rigging the control cables I spent hours
trying to adjust the cable/rod ends to achieve full travel to both stops but
in the end had to compromise. It appears that the cable, or maybe the quadrant,
does not have enough travel to accomplish both.
I've been in the archives and have seen similar problems but no clues as to the
fix. My thoughts are to perhaps move the attach point up on the mixture lever
(Van's deluxe quadrant, and Cable too), thus providing more travel for any given
lever movement and hopefully attain the little extra needed to hit both stops.
I realize this fix will only work if the quadrant is the problem. But what
if it's the cable that does not have the necessary travel?
Your thoughts, comments, and suggestions please.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S
St. Charles, MO
90% done....90% to go!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS / Trio EZ-Pilot question |
Not at all, Jerry. This is technical info, straight from the source, of interest
to more than just me. If anyone objects, I'll take the heat :-)
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Hansen <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin GPS / Trio EZ-Pilot question
I don?t mind if you post it. I just don?t like to butt in to a non-commercial
list with comments that can seem self serving?.
Best regards,
Jerry
From: sportav8r(at)aol.com [mailto:sportav8r(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin GPS / Trio EZ-Pilot question
Thanks, Jerry. That does make me feel much better. Do you mind if I pass your
reply on to the list, for general enlightenment?
-Bill Boyd / "Stormy"
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Hansen <jerry(at)trioavionics.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin GPS / Trio EZ-Pilot question
(Private reply)
Stormy, you will seldom notice the difference between a once-per-second
update rate and a once-every-two-second update rate. On a normal
multi-waypoint flight, the only place you "might" be able to tell a
difference is at the waypoint. If you assume that you get a GPS update JUST
before you arrive at the waypoint, and then overfly it, the GPS wouldn't
tell the plane that you had arrived for two seconds, instead of one second.
Therefore, you would get a slightly longer overshoot before the plane starts
turning toward the next waypoint.
Other than that, I doubt you'll see much difference.
Best Regards,
Jerry Hansen
Trio Avionics
http://www.trioavionics.com
Phone - 619-448-4619
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sportav8r(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Garmin GPS / Trio EZ-Pilot question
Stormy's hunting a newer GPS to drive his Trio A/P installation, and
wondering two things about NMEA outputs:
The GPSmap 396 online owner's manual says the unit can be programmed for
"fast" one-second output intervals; the 296's manual does not mention this
particualr capability. Any 296 users out there know if your unit will run
at the one-second output rate, or is 2 seconds all she'll do?
Secondly, is there that much of a drawback to having two-second GPS data
updates as far as tracking the flight plan with the EZ-Pilot? I know that
one second updates are preferred (and standard for panel-mount GPS's), but
wondering how much practical difference has been noticed in the air.
If this is a real issue, I might have to spring for the 396, which is truly
more $$$ than I want to spend right now; if not, I'd be happy with the 296.
Currently using an Airmap 500- nice GPS, but too tiny for my presbyopic eyes
since I hit the big 4-9 :-)
Thanks for the input, gang.
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | oil and oil temps |
List members,
Passing on this info on aeroshell 15/50 oil.
There is no definitive answer to your question as different engines will put
different thermal stress on the oil. For example, a turbocharged engine will
stress the oil more than a non-turbo engine, purely because the turbine
bearing chamber runs at such a high temperature. Whilst not all of the oil supply
is passed through this bearing, the temperatures within it are much higher
than many other parts of the engine and so can stress the oil. Of course by the
time the oil has drained to the sump and cooled, the bulk oil temperature
that you are measuring on the gauge on the input oil way may not be any
different to a non-turbo engine.
This said, a semi-synthetic oil will perform better in high temperature
applications than pure mineral formulations.
Semi Synthetic oils have much better thermal stability and so are able to
withstand higher oil temperatures than mineral oils. They also oxidise at a
much slower rate, so do not degrade as quickly i.e. they are a better lubricant
for longer, especially in applications where there is higher than normal heat
exposure. Additionally, the higher specific heat capacity of synthetic oils
means that synthetic-based oils such as AeroShell Oil W 15W-50 will also run
at a lower oil temperature than mineral-based formulations - typically we see
a reduction in oil temp of about 10 deg F when changing to AeroShell Oil W
15W-50.
As long as you understand that there are some caveats on the data (as the
information is engine-specific to some degree) I do have some data that may go
some way to answer your question.
Some time ago we conducted some testing in a (non turbo) bench test engine
known as an L-38 engine test. This was done at elevated max oil temperature:
143 deg C (290 deg F). In order to make this more applicable to what you may
be familiar with, our own data has shown that the difference between the max
oil temperature and engine gauge temp is about 50 deg F in a non-turbo
engine, so this max bulk oil temp equates to a gauge temp of around 240 deg F.
In this chart we measure oxidation in the oil indirectly my looking at the
oil's acid content; organic acids are a by-product of oxidation and measuring
the Total Acid Number is the usual way of quantifying oxidation in an oil.
You can see that all of the oils tested show few signs of oxidation in the
initial stages of this test. This is a sign that the anti-oxidant additives are
working within the oils. As soon as the anti-oxidant package is depleted, you
can see the base oil oxidation profile. Interestingly the mineral-based
multigrades (20W-50 and 25W-60) oxidise at a rapid rate as they use mineral base
oils that are quite light; you will notice that once the anti-oxidant has run
out in the AeroShell Oil W100, the heavier base oil oxidises at a slower
rate. The semi-synthetic AeroShell Oil W 15W-50 dos not start to oxidise until
after the 40 hour point.
This gives you indication that, in a normally aspirated engine, AeroShell
Oil W 15W-50 is performing adequately at a gauge temperature of 240 deg F.
However my advice would be that, if operating at these elevated temperatures,
it
would be wise to change the oil out at 25 hour intervals rather than 50. By
doing this we would ensure that we are operating within the capabilities of
the oil's anti-oxidant package and by changing to new oil you are reducing the
stress on the base oils.
I hope that this goes some way to answering your question, but if you need
anything further then please do not hesitate to contact me again direct.
Best regards
Rob Midgley
Global Technical Manager, General Aviation
Tel: +44 (0)161 499 8743 Fax: 4144 Other Tel: +44 (0)7836 604935 Mobile
Email: robert.midgley(at)shell.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Rivet Gun Problems |
I have a 2x rivet gun that's sat unused for several years. Now it's
not working very well. If I press hard against the rivet, it won't
fire, although air is moving through it. If I back off the pressure
a bit before pulling the trigger, it fires, but not very well, and
I'd have rivets getting pushed out of their holes by the bucking bar
by releasing the pressure on the rivet.
I've run some oil through it, although maybe I need to run a lot more
through (perhaps practically drenching it) or maybe some other fluid?
I don't really know how these things work on the inside. I'm not
sure how to take it apart, and don't want to break it through
incorrect disassembly.
Any suggestions?
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 8/13/05 4:52:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jdavis213899(at)comcast.net writes:
> < been very pleased with the product.>>
I used Veri Prime (sp?) on my wings and empennage, then switched to SEM
primer in the rattle cans when I built the fuselage of my slooow build -6. I have
found that there is no difference as far a durability. FWIW, both are readily
removed with alcohol.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 115 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sealer for canopy skirts |
In a message dated 8/13/05 8:08:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bhester(at)hopkinsville.net writes:
> What is Lexel and what asle would it be on
Lexel is a clear sealant adhesive that does not attack plexi like most common
silicone adhesives seem to do. The stores that carry it usually seem to
stock it with the silicones and other caulking materials. I used it and it worked
fine.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 115 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Gun Problems |
Joe
Unplug it, load it with WD-40 orlacquer thinner and let it set for 30 min.
Plug it in and hold it on something and pull the trigger. If tha don't work,
the barrel un-screws, there is only two partsin there. a plungger and a
flutter disc. you can not hurt it by taking it apart. I've had hundreds
apart. Use to be a tool dealer.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Advice on Flight Plan from Seattle, WA to Mobile, AL |
In a message dated 8/14/05 9:00:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com writes:
> If u get time would appreciate any routing & advice u could share with me.
> Some of us are planning a trip to Van's homecoming in 2006. We are based in
> Alabama.
>
Okay John, this sound like your cue to share the info you gather with the
list. As I just told you in my offline response, I'm planning a west to east
trip similar to yours next year.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 115 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Rivet Gun Problems |
Get a quart of "Marvel Mystery Oil" from Wal-Mart. Flood it well and let it
soak overnight. Then use line pressure when you try it again. I always MMO
in my air tools. I put at least a teaspoon full in the rivet gun often and
if unused for awhile do that .
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best Portable GPS |
Best portable GPS?
Can't tell you with that info, but if cost is no object the new Garmin 396 is top of current top of the heap. http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap396/
Garmin is the recognized leader in portable GPS and has many models to choose from:
http://www.garmin.com/aviation/products.html#portable
Other dedicated GPS that are good (to name a few):
http://www.lowrance.com/Aviation/default.asp
http://www.avmapnavigation.com/
(If you are mounting it on a yoke (like on a Cessna) Vs. a more permanent panel
installation like in an experimental, the big displays will get in your way more
than help. You don't need a real large screen to get decent utility out of
the unit.
The other TYPE of GPS are the PDA (iPaq) based GPS systems Vs. the dedicated type
GPS systems above. The PDA based units have pros and cons, I have used both
dedicated (like Garmin) and the PDA based GPS, I prefer the dedicated units for
ease of use.
Anywheremap is the king of this hill of the PDA (one was for sale used real cheap on the VansAirforce classifieds for the cost of just a PDA. Why? I don't know but some don't care for the touch screen and smaller size screen.) http://www.controlvision.com/
Other PDA based aviation GPS software makers are:
http://www.airgator.com/
http://www.pcavionics.com/custserv/index.jsp
http://www.navzilla.com/
http://www.pocketfms.com/
If you don't have a PDA now or have used one before I would not suggest going this
route. However the long term ownership of a PDA based system might me cheaper
because of update cost. The nice thing about the updates (which they charge
for but tends to be cheaper than Garmin) is some vendors provide daily update
of special use airspace and Temp Flt Restrictions (TFR) free to down from the
web. However for VFR I only updated my Garmin GPS every year or so and used
paper to back it up (Air Chart Systems). As far as TRF the info is free on the
web anyway to check before flight, which is a pretty obvious thing to do.
Good Luck.
Whether a $500 GPS or a $3000 portable GPS they all do basically the same important
functions. The high end features, terrain and weather are in the upper priced
units and Garmin 396 would be my choice if money was no limit. If I did not
care for weather I would look at the other barnds which tend to be less expensive
and still have great features. Also remember to get weather there is a
monthly subscription like satellite radio or TV. In fact the weather is provided
by XM radio. This could get expensive if you are not going to use it.
George
Kevin Williams wrote:
>
>I would like feedback on what portable GPS you feel is the best out there as
>of today or very soon to be released? I'm looking at buying a good one to go
>along with a plane purchase.
>
>Im looking for most of the bells and whistles. Color contoured map, and a
>simulated HSI (horizontal situational indicator) would be great.
>
>Kevin
>
>>Match: #13 Message: #132655
>>Date: Aug 13, 2005
>>From: Hal Rozema <hartist1(at)cox.net>
>>Subject: Re: Best Portable GPS
>>
>>I'm have both their ANYWHERE MAP http://www.controlvision.com/ and
>>ATTITUDE INDICATOR (HSI) http://www.anywheremap.com/pages/Section_AI.aspx
>>Zenith CH701 VSTOL w/Jabiru 3300
>>Hal Rozema
>>see ThePlaneFolks.Net click on Construction Gallery
>>Phoenix, AZ
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | HS and Wing stands |
Does anyone have plans or dimensions of stands for holding the
horizontal stab and the wings for the -10?
Rick Leach
40397
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Best Portable GPS |
Check out the flight cheetah. It doesnt look as nice as the garmin but I
think it has more to offer...
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Best Portable GPS
>
> Best portable GPS?
>
> Can't tell you with that info, but if cost is no object the new Garmin 396
> is top of current top of the heap.
> http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap396/
>
>
> Garmin is the recognized leader in portable GPS and has many models to
> choose from:
> http://www.garmin.com/aviation/products.html#portable
>
>
> Other dedicated GPS that are good (to name a few):
> http://www.lowrance.com/Aviation/default.asp
> http://www.avmapnavigation.com/
>
> (If you are mounting it on a yoke (like on a Cessna) Vs. a more permanent
> panel installation like in an experimental, the big displays will get in
> your way more than help. You don't need a real large screen to get decent
> utility out of the unit.
>
>
> The other TYPE of GPS are the PDA (iPaq) based GPS systems Vs. the
> dedicated type GPS systems above. The PDA based units have pros and cons,
> I have used both dedicated (like Garmin) and the PDA based GPS, I prefer
> the dedicated units for ease of use.
>
> Anywheremap is the king of this hill of the PDA (one was for sale used
> real cheap on the VansAirforce classifieds for the cost of just a PDA.
> Why? I don't know but some don't care for the touch screen and smaller
> size screen.) http://www.controlvision.com/
>
> Other PDA based aviation GPS software makers are:
> http://www.airgator.com/
> http://www.pcavionics.com/custserv/index.jsp
> http://www.navzilla.com/
> http://www.pocketfms.com/
>
> If you don't have a PDA now or have used one before I would not suggest
> going this route. However the long term ownership of a PDA based system
> might me cheaper because of update cost. The nice thing about the updates
> (which they charge for but tends to be cheaper than Garmin) is some
> vendors provide daily update of special use airspace and Temp Flt
> Restrictions (TFR) free to down from the web. However for VFR I only
> updated my Garmin GPS every year or so and used paper to back it up (Air
> Chart Systems). As far as TRF the info is free on the web anyway to check
> before flight, which is a pretty obvious thing to do.
>
>
> Good Luck.
>
> Whether a $500 GPS or a $3000 portable GPS they all do basically the same
> important functions. The high end features, terrain and weather are in the
> upper priced units and Garmin 396 would be my choice if money was no
> limit. If I did not care for weather I would look at the other barnds
> which tend to be less expensive and still have great features. Also
> remember to get weather there is a monthly subscription like satellite
> radio or TV. In fact the weather is provided by XM radio. This could get
> expensive if you are not going to use it.
>
> George
>
>
> Kevin Williams wrote:
>>
>>I would like feedback on what portable GPS you feel is the best out there
>>as
>>of today or very soon to be released? I'm looking at buying a good one to
>>go
>>along with a plane purchase.
>>
>>Im looking for most of the bells and whistles. Color contoured map, and a
>>simulated HSI (horizontal situational indicator) would be great.
>>
>>Kevin
>>
>>>Match: #13 Message: #132655
>>>Date: Aug 13, 2005
>>>From: Hal Rozema <hartist1(at)cox.net>
>>>Subject: Re: Best Portable GPS
>>>
>>>I'm have both their ANYWHERE MAP http://www.controlvision.com/ and
>>>ATTITUDE INDICATOR (HSI) http://www.anywheremap.com/pages/Section_AI.aspx
>>>Zenith CH701 VSTOL w/Jabiru 3300
>>>Hal Rozema
>>>see ThePlaneFolks.Net click on Construction Gallery
>>>Phoenix, AZ
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron pushrod and wing mounting |
List:
Getting real close to getting my wings on for the last time. Regarding the aileron
pushrod......From control column to the bellcrank. Is it necessary to have
that installed in the wing when you mount the wings? My plan has been to get
the wings mounted and then make up my pushrods and fish them through the wing
via the lightening holes. I figure that once I get them to the bellcrank,
I can finish getting them into the fuselage by grabbing them at the aileron bellcrank
access.
Any suggestions?
Am I slow at getting this thing done, or what!!?
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Mounting wings real soon
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best Portable GPS |
Dont forget flight soft and flight soft express. Runs on the ipaq as well.
I have been using the flight planning software for several years and like it
alot. Now they offer the express for the pda for the same yearly fee. 108
00.
http://www.rmstek.com
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Jeff Dowling
Date: 08/14/05 18:33:34
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Best Portable GPS
Check out the flight cheetah. It doesnt look as nice as the garmin but I
think it has more to offer...
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Best Portable GPS
>
> Best portable GPS?
>
> Can't tell you with that info, but if cost is no object the new Garmin 396
> is top of current top of the heap.
> http://www.garmin.com/products/gpsmap396/
>
>
> Garmin is the recognized leader in portable GPS and has many models to
> choose from:
> http://www.garmin.com/aviation/products.html#portable
>
>
> Other dedicated GPS that are good (to name a few):
> http://www.lowrance.com/Aviation/default.asp
> http://www.avmapnavigation.com/
>
> (If you are mounting it on a yoke (like on a Cessna) Vs. a more permanent
> panel installation like in an experimental, the big displays will get in
> your way more than help. You don't need a real large screen to get decent
> utility out of the unit.
>
>
> The other TYPE of GPS are the PDA (iPaq) based GPS systems Vs. the
> dedicated type GPS systems above. The PDA based units have pros and cons,
> I have used both dedicated (like Garmin) and the PDA based GPS, I prefer
> the dedicated units for ease of use.
>
> Anywheremap is the king of this hill of the PDA (one was for sale used
> real cheap on the VansAirforce classifieds for the cost of just a PDA.
> Why? I don't know but some don't care for the touch screen and smaller
> size screen.) http://www.controlvision.com/
>
> Other PDA based aviation GPS software makers are:
> http://www.airgator.com/
> http://www.pcavionics.com/custserv/index.jsp
> http://www.navzilla.com/
> http://www.pocketfms.com/
>
> If you don't have a PDA now or have used one before I would not suggest
> going this route. However the long term ownership of a PDA based system
> might me cheaper because of update cost. The nice thing about the updates
> (which they charge for but tends to be cheaper than Garmin) is some
> vendors provide daily update of special use airspace and Temp Flt
> Restrictions (TFR) free to down from the web. However for VFR I only
> updated my Garmin GPS every year or so and used paper to back it up (Air
> Chart Systems). As far as TRF the info is free on the web anyway to check
> before flight, which is a pretty obvious thing to do.
>
>
> Good Luck.
>
> Whether a $500 GPS or a $3000 portable GPS they all do basically the same
> important functions. The high end features, terrain and weather are in the
> upper priced units and Garmin 396 would be my choice if money was no
> limit. If I did not care for weather I would look at the other barnds
> which tend to be less expensive and still have great features. Also
> remember to get weather there is a monthly subscription like satellite
> radio or TV. In fact the weather is provided by XM radio. This could get
> expensive if you are not going to use it.
>
> George
>
>
> Kevin Williams wrote:
>>
>>I would like feedback on what portable GPS you feel is the best out there
>>as
>>of today or very soon to be released? I'm looking at buying a good one to
>>go
>>along with a plane purchase.
>>
>>Im looking for most of the bells and whistles. Color contoured map, and a
>>simulated HSI (horizontal situational indicator) would be great.
>>
>>Kevin
>>
>>>Match: #13 Message: #132655
>>>Date: Aug 13, 2005
>>>From: Hal Rozema <hartist1(at)cox.net>
>>>Subject: Re: Best Portable GPS
>>>
>>>I'm have both their ANYWHERE MAP http://www.controlvision.com/ and
>>>ATTITUDE INDICATOR (HSI) http://www.anywheremap.com/pages/Section_AI.aspx
>>>Zenith CH701 VSTOL w/Jabiru 3300
>>>Hal Rozema
>>>see ThePlaneFolks.Net click on Construction Gallery
>>>Phoenix, AZ
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron pushrod and wing mounting |
You can put them in through the ends like you suggest. Works fine.
Tim
RV-6
Did it that way when I test fit my wings.
-------Original Message-------
From: Jeff Orear
Date: 08/14/05 20:12:02
Subject: RV-List: Aileron pushrod and wing mounting
List:
Getting real close to getting my wings on for the last time. Regarding the
aileron pushrod......From control column to the bellcrank. Is it necessary
to have that installed in the wing when you mount the wings? My plan has
been to get the wings mounted and then make up my pushrods and fish them
through the wing via the lightening holes. I figure that once I get them to
the bellcrank, I can finish getting them into the fuselage by grabbing them
at the aileron bellcrank access.
Any suggestions?
Am I slow at getting this thing done, or what!!?
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Mounting wings real soon
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy - How many more times? ... I agree !! |
OK, I started this whole thread as a joke, and trying to relieve my
frustration, but really ....
... Now I'm on a rant!
The reason I picked Vans was because it is the best kit out there in so, so
many ways.
Where else (certified or not) can you get a plane that will fly like this at
this cost? Where else can you find such a clear builders manual aided by
readily available tech support? (Thank you Tom Green et al for your patience with
an idiot like me.) BUT!!!...
Right from the outset I realized that I was not one of these guys that builds
the first one then suffers from "builders withdrawal" and immediately starts
building another. I DO NOT enjoy the building process. It's a means to an
end for me. I will never do this again. I just want to fly the thing, and I
want it to be right when I do,
There is a certain satisfaction from following the (usually) clear
directions, taking the time to understand the (usually) accurate drawings (the
biggest
aggregate time in my builder's log will be the looking at the drawings, head
scratching process. OK, my problem, my bad.), lining up the holes, being
precise, riveting the thing and finally saying, "Wow! I built a rudder, and it's
a
real quality job, thank you, thank you Vans for your design and the technical
support you provide to newbies like me." Tedium and patience is part of the
process to get it right, and you start to think, "OK, I can do this, I can
build an airframe if I just follow directions."
But then you run into things like this (the canopy) and all good will goes
out the window. Frustration doesn't need to be a part of the process if it can
be avoided.
I'm no engineer, but I'm reasonably intelligent, so can somebody tell me why
Vans couldn't put the welded canopy frame (and roll bar) in some kind of
factory jig to make it fit the rest of the airframe? I can visualize such an
apparatus but I have neither the skill, means, nor would it be practical for me
to
build such a jig for a "one time" application. If you can match drill skins
and ribs surely you can match drill this section too. Just tell me what it
costs and I'll pay it.
Right in Section 9 (Fitting the Canopy) page 1 of the manual it says this can
be "... one of the most disappointing, gumption-robbing experiences a
homebuilder can have." Got that right!
Just can't wait until I get to (Vans words) "The black art" of fiberglass.
Why is it that several guys are making a buck with fairings better than what
Vans supplies? Better yet, what a joy will wiring this sucker be? Why can't
Vans recommend a typical instrument panel and supply the components for the
same instead of me putting out $5K for someone to do this part?
A while back in the RV ator Van himself questioned why he had sold xx,xxx
thousand empenage kits when there were only x,xxx thousand flying. He said,
"What happened to the other x,xxx thousand?" You want my answer to date? The
canopy! No skill one has acquired thus far in the process prepares you for this
mess. Is it possible to leave the damn thing off and just fly with goggles?
Hello Vans! Fix it! Let me do my 51% somewhere else! There must
be other builders like me!
Please don't flame me. It would just add to my frustration at this point.
John McD (RV7A - @#
%$ Canopy - ARRGGHAAA)
Don't care if you archive or not, but please, somebody at Vans read this!!!
Rant over. Tomorrow is another day. Maybe the elves will finish the canopy
while I sleep.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Congrats Walter |
On 08/13 10:27, Dan Checkoway wrote:
> Just wanted to extend a big congratulations to Walter Tondu, who flew his
> RV-7A for the first time today at Chino, CA. Nicely done!!!
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
Thanks Dan,
Just a note to all who participated, "Thank You" very much.
It was a very memorable experience. One that will never be
forgotten.
Notes on the first flight here.
http://www.rv7-a.com/phase_1.htm#First%20Flight
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy - How many more times? ... I agree !! |
Wow Jerry.
Give me a break. I've seen your posts before, some informative, some
helpful, some opinionated, some potentially offensive.....
Guess I should have known better and should have read all the responses
before I fired off a reply to the first post I read. (And probably before Miller
Time which I am well into at this point after yet another day of wrestling with
this frame in 97 degree heat.)
I was just so relieved to find at least one other builder who agrees with me
that I needed to continue to vent.
Please don't characterize my post as whining. If some want to do the slow
build; Hell, if some want to smelt their own aluminum, God bless. That's not
me.
No, I don't want Vans to come build the plane for me.
In my area of expertise I did great in my life. But I wouldn't expect that
somebody new to my field would understand all the nuance of what I know after a
lifetime in the field. In fact, in my area (teacher) my main task is to show
the new student the joy of what I love, and help them to gain skills. To a
really great teacher challenge is part of the process, frustration never is.
After obsessing over every rivet and measurement in the emp kit I ordered the
quickbuild because I recognized my limitations both in skill and desire to
have this plane.
All I'm saying is that this stage is (maybe) needlessly frustrating.
Just asking Van to give me the option to ease my pain and get this thing
flying.
John McD (RV7A - canopy - duly chastised by the purist(s)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron pushrod and wing mounting |
Hi Jeff, We have talked on here before, I was only a few months in front of you.
Leave your wingtips off and feed your pushrods through the wings to the aileron
bellcrank and then feed to the fuselage from there, works great. Mark Phipps,
N242RP, Gypsy Spirit. 11 hours of flight time so far, flies great.
List:
Getting real close to getting my wings on for the last time. Regarding the aileron
pushrod......From control column to the bellcrank. Is it necessary to have
that installed in the wing when you mount the wings? My plan has been to get
the wings mounted and then make up my pushrods and fish them through the wing
via the lightening holes. I figure that once I get them to the bellcrank, I can
finish getting them into the fuselage by grabbing them at the aileron bellcrank
access.
Any suggestions?
Am I slow at getting this thing done, or what!!?
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Mounting wings real soon
Peshtigo, WI
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy - How many more times? ... I agree !! |
John, Ok breathe, you are going through what we all went through. Take your time
and relax and expext a couple a months for a good canopy fit. Don't, please
fall into the category that says, I saw it on the flight line so it must be okay.
I redid my rear canopy skirts for about 2 months including buying a metal
bender. In the end it is little to ask for a proffesional looking job. Remember,
every time you exit your aircraft you will look at it and know everyone else
is as well. Take your time, your gonna fly this bird for a lotta years, remember
they call em " Experimental"TAnon(at)aol.com wrote:
Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A
OK, I started this whole thread as a joke, and trying to relieve my
frustration, but really ....
... Now I'm on a rant!
The reason I picked Vans was because it is the best kit out there in so, so
many ways.
Where else (certified or not) can you get a plane that will fly like this at
this cost? Where else can you find such a clear builders manual aided by
readily available tech support? (Thank you Tom Green et al for your patience with
an idiot like me.) BUT!!!...
Right from the outset I realized that I was not one of these guys that builds
the first one then suffers from "builders withdrawal" and immediately starts
building another. I DO NOT enjoy the building process. It's a means to an
end for me. I will never do this again. I just want to fly the thing, and I
want it to be right when I do,
There is a certain satisfaction from following the (usually) clear
directions, taking the time to understand the (usually) accurate drawings (the
biggest
aggregate time in my builder's log will be the looking at the drawings, head
scratching process. OK, my problem, my bad.), lining up the holes, being
precise, riveting the thing and finally saying, "Wow! I built a rudder, and it's
a
real quality job, thank you, thank you Vans for your design and the technical
support you provide to newbies like me." Tedium and patience is part of the
process to get it right, and you start to think, "OK, I can do this, I can
build an airframe if I just follow directions."
But then you run into things like this (the canopy) and all good will goes
out the window. Frustration doesn't need to be a part of the process if it can
be avoided.
I'm no engineer, but I'm reasonably intelligent, so can somebody tell me why
Vans couldn't put the welded canopy frame (and roll bar) in some kind of
factory jig to make it fit the rest of the airframe? I can visualize such an
apparatus but I have neither the skill, means, nor would it be practical for me
to
build such a jig for a "one time" application. If you can match drill skins
and ribs surely you can match drill this section too. Just tell me what it
costs and I'll pay it.
Right in Section 9 (Fitting the Canopy) page 1 of the manual it says this can
be "... one of the most disappointing, gumption-robbing experiences a
homebuilder can have." Got that right!
Just can't wait until I get to (Vans words) "The black art" of fiberglass.
Why is it that several guys are making a buck with fairings better than what
Vans supplies? Better yet, what a joy will wiring this sucker be? Why can't
Vans recommend a typical instrument panel and supply the components for the
same instead of me putting out $5K for someone to do this part?
A while back in the RV ator Van himself questioned why he had sold xx,xxx
thousand empenage kits when there were only x,xxx thousand flying. He said,
"What happened to the other x,xxx thousand?" You want my answer to date? The
canopy! No skill one has acquired thus far in the process prepares you for this
mess. Is it possible to leave the damn thing off and just fly with goggles?
Hello Vans! Fix it! Let me do my 51% somewhere else! There must
be other builders like me!
Please don't flame me. It would just add to my frustration at this point.
John McD (RV7A - @#
%$ Canopy - ARRGGHAAA)
Don't care if you archive or not, but please, somebody at Vans read this!!!
Rant over. Tomorrow is another day. Maybe the elves will finish the canopy
while I sleep.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canopy - Enough Already |
OK! I made a mistake!
The original (8/11 Canopy - How many more times?) post was a failed attempt
at humor.
In subsequent posts apparently some think I'm a weanie, some agree, some want
to "fix my head" and make me a "real builder"
LOL
I get it! Thanks to all for your input.
So tomorrow I'll go at the canopy frame again, hope springs eternal
Or maybe I'll do something more fun like back riveting my finger nails,
drilling yet another hole in my thumb, or maybe do something new like just slamming
my head repeatedly into my EAA designed workbench until I realize I bit off
more than I can chew with this project.
NOT!
Best move is to go to bed and recognize that, "What one man can do, another
can do."
I WILL finish this project.
Let's all agree to two things....
1) Come admire my plane at Oshkosh next year
2) Let's save the band width for guys that have real building questions and
can benefit from the invaluable help and advice that I have benefited from
over the years on this list.
John McD (RV7A canopy redux)
PS Jerry, You're not the same guy who hosts that TV show and thinks he can
run for the Senate are you?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Lukasczyk" <Lukasczyk(at)gmx.net> |
Hi Dean
You might want to take a look at what I did.
http://www.rv-4.de/Detaillsungen.htm
I am sorry it is all in german but there are many good english webpages
already out there....
I filed a gap into the head of a stainless-steel-socket-head-bolt. The bent
end of the Cowl-pin rests inside the gap and is secured by a small lock-pin.
The bolt itself screws into a rivnut that is held by piece of 0.040-2024
epoxied to the inside of the cowl. I do only have 65 hours on my RV-4 but
the design has worked great so far.
Good luck finishing your project soon
do not archieve
Thomas, RV-4
D-EXTL
--
5 GB Mailbox, 50 FreeSMS http://www.gmx.net/de/go/promail
+++ GMX - die erste Adresse fr Mail, Message, More +++
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Fromm" <jfromm1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Mixture cable too short? |
Steve,
I posted on this subject about a year and a half ago but I think it might
have been to the old Yahoo RV-8 list and I can't find it now.
Anyway, you did mention that you are talking about the deluxe quadrant and
Van's cable. If you are also talking about the Precision MA4-5 carb, then
the problem is with both the cable and the quadrant.
On my quadrant, the hole in the mixture lever was not drilled as high up on
the lever as the throttle. You need to drill another hole in the lever at
least as high as, and preferably a little higher than the one in the
throttle lever.
The cable is an issue too. The full stroke of the cable is just a little
over 2", if you're lucky, after taking out the backlash. That's barely
enough to move the mixture arm stop to stop. So you've got to make sure you
are getting every bit of that travel out of the cable by adjusting things at
the quadrant. That means drilling that hole higher, moving the cable as far
forward in the anchor bracket as possible, and, in my case, even notching
the lever a little---whatever it takes to make sure that you are hitting
full travel on the cable and not having the lever stopped by the slots in
the top plate of the quadrant.
Hope that helps.
Jack Fromm
RV-8 N138JF
Flying - 95 hours
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Mixture cable too short?
I started the engine yesterday for the first time. Big event, and it went
pretty
well. I knew before the start that my mixture arm was not quite making it to
the idle cutoff stop but that was a compromise I had to make in order to
reach
the full rich stop. I would say the idle stop was short by about 1/8 inch,
just
enough to cause the engine to continue to run with the mixture lever off.
Prior to the start, and months ago while rigging the control cables I spent
hours
trying to adjust the cable/rod ends to achieve full travel to both stops but
in the end had to compromise. It appears that the cable, or maybe the
quadrant,
does not have enough travel to accomplish both.
I've been in the archives and have seen similar problems but no clues as to
the
fix. My thoughts are to perhaps move the attach point up on the mixture
lever
(Van's deluxe quadrant, and Cable too), thus providing more travel for any
given
lever movement and hopefully attain the little extra needed to hit both
stops.
I realize this fix will only work if the quadrant is the problem. But what
if it's the cable that does not have the necessary travel?
Your thoughts, comments, and suggestions please.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S
St. Charles, MO
90% done....90% to go!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Lukasczyk" <Lukasczyk(at)gmx.net> |
Hi Dean
You might want to take a look at what I did.
http://www.rv-4.de/Detaillsungen.htm
I am sorry it is all in german but there are many good english webpages
already out there....
I filed a gap into the head of a stainless-steel-socket-head-bolt. The bent
end of the Cowl-pin rests inside the gap and is secured by a small lock-pin.
The bolt itself screws into a rivnut that is held by piece of 0.040-2024
epoxied to the inside of the cowl. I do only have 65 hours on my RV-4 but
the design has worked great so far.
Good luck finishing your project soon
do not archieve
Thomas, RV-4
D-EXTL
--
5 GB Mailbox, 50 FreeSMS http://www.gmx.net/de/go/promail
+++ GMX - die erste Adresse fr Mail, Message, More +++
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Lukasczyk" <Lukasczyk(at)gmx.net> |
> --- Ursprngliche Nachricht ---
> Von: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
> An:
> Betreff: RV-List: Cowl Pins (Glenn Gordon)
>
>
>
> Glenn Gordon you still on this list? I ran across an old post from you.
> In
> that post you mention you "came up with a pretty slick way of securing the
> horizontal cowl pins". You didn't have any description but said to email
> you directly and you would send pics. I would really like to see those
> pics. Could you please send to me at this email address? Thanks.
> If anyone else has good ideas for this let me know.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Finally getting to the end!!
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Dean
You might want to take a look at what I did.
http://www.rv-4.de/gallerie/rv4_img/tn_P6061586.jpg
I am sorry it is all in german but there are many good english webpages
already out there....
I filed a gap into the head of a stainless-steel-socket-head-bolt. The bent
end of the Cowl-pin rests inside the gap and is secured by a small lock-pin.
The bolt itself screws into a rivnut that is held by piece of 0.040-2024
epoxied to the inside of the cowl. I do only have 65 hours on my RV-4 but
the design has worked great so far.
Good luck finishing your project soon
do not archieve
Thomas, RV-4
D-EXTL
--
Lust, ein paar Euro nebenbei zu verdienen? Ohne Kosten, ohne Risiko!
Satte Provisionen fr GMX Partner: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/partner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy - How many more times? ... I agree !! |
//I have to stand with Jerry on this one. I have built both slow and quick
build kits and have enjoyed every minute spent building. There are
builders, and there are flyers and then there are those that enjoy
building and flying. I guess I am the latter.
C'mon guys. Let's step back from the cliff here. There are MANY flavors of
MANY people. There's aren't just only an I ENJOY everything about building
and I ENJOY nothing about building people. So the only camp that's really
out there, is you. And unless you paid twice as much for the kit everyone
else is building, ain't nobody better than the other... Just different.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David" <davewendi(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy - How many more times? ... |
It is important to remember that everything is relative. How many of you,
who believe nothing should be improved, built a quick build instead of a
slow build? How many built a slow build instead
of using plans only? Be honest... How many of you
would be willing to forego the improvements that have already been made over
the years by Van's?
There is always room for improvement.
David Kirby
RV-6AQB
Griffin, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbine Engines for RVs |
Looks very interesting. High HP low Weight. A bit higher fuel burn, but
cheaper fuel. . . Not sure on the actual cost of the engine, though they
claim the price is comparable to a piston engine. . .
http://www.innodyn.com/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marty" <martorious(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Turbine Engines for RVs |
There are two things to keep in mind when considering this company.
1. Caveat Emptor, and
2. Too good to be true.
I was marginally interested when I first heard of them, however I've
read some things that are making me look in other directions for
powerplant choices.
Read this thread on Doug Reeves site, some of the posts will open your
eyes.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=1335
Keep in mind that I have not independently confirmed any of this, but
I have read similar tales in more than one place.
For Jet-a burning alternatives, I think the Deltahawk compression
combustion engine looks promising.
Marty in Indiana
RV-8A Preview plans in Hand
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Williams
>Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 9:10 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Turbine Engines for RVs
>
>
>
>Looks very interesting. High HP low Weight. A bit higher fuel burn,
>but
>cheaper fuel. . . Not sure on the actual cost of the engine, though
>they
>claim the price is comparable to a piston engine. . .
>
>http://www.innodyn.com/index.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Turbine Engines for RVs |
To make a long story short, so far it is vaporware, and they have not
published any real numbers. The RV-4 test bed is a dog.
>
>Looks very interesting. High HP low Weight. A bit higher fuel burn, but
>cheaper fuel. . . Not sure on the actual cost of the engine, though they
>claim the price is comparable to a piston engine. . .
>
>http://www.innodyn.com/index.html
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbine Engines for RVs |
What follows is my opinion based on speaking to these guys at OSH and what I
have read, and read between the lines in trade rags.
I long for a time when I can afford to buy and feed an airplane where all
the parts are turning continuiously in one direction. It is a great
concept. This engine is really cool but they have some problems.
#1 If the fuel economy they claim is correct, then Pratt & Whitney, GE,
Williams, and everyother manufacturer would pay these guys MILLIONS if not
BILLIONS of dollars for the technology.
#2 it appears from what I have read that the engine operates in an EXTREMLY
narrow rpm range and the pilot controls prop pitch and the computer controls
the power. This sounds simple enough but based on what I have read, the
RV-4 is pretty challenging to fly with this setup. If you moved the prop
control too quickly you could either cook or kill the engine in a heartbeat.
Again, reading between the lines, it sounded to me like a go-around would
either be hair-raising or impossible.
#3 They have no means to measure torque output to the propellor. This is
critical. There is no other way to determine the health of a turbine engine
without a torque meter. They seemed totally unconcerned about it. It would
compare roughly to flying a C/S airplane without a Manifold pressure gauge.
#4 I questioned them about fuel flow on a dyno and they evaded my question.
Anyone who can build a turbine engine can figure out a simple dyno. A
generator or a water pump for a load, a bathroom scale, and an RPM gauge and
you have a dyno. There is no reason why they cannot determine and publish
some dyno info. My guess is that they have that info and choose not to
share it. If they don't have it, that is even scarier, what other critical
info are they ignoring?
I wish them all the luck in the world and hope they are successful, but it
looks to me like they are a LONG way from being ready to sell engines that
fly.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbine Engines for RVs |
I would be very cautious. Their quote of 7 gph/100HP just too wild for me
to believe - especially for a turbine engine. 7gph on a VERY good piston
automobile engine could produce power on the order of 90HP. Small turbines
have thus far not been able to approach that figure.
Ed A
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Turbine Engines for RVs
>
> Looks very interesting. High HP low Weight. A bit higher fuel burn, but
> cheaper fuel. . . Not sure on the actual cost of the engine, though they
> claim the price is comparable to a piston engine. . .
>
> http://www.innodyn.com/index.html
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Szantho" <szantho(at)usa.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy - Enough Already |
John McD, I agree with you 100%. The canopy is like trying to fit Jell-O
over spaghetti, it can be done, but very frustrating. What I cannot
understand is why we can't ask for improvement from the manufacturer of our
kits without being criticized and berated. I thought that's how we improve
everything we deal with in our everyday existence. Maybe even Van's needs
some help from the pool of thousands of builders. On my part I came to the
conclusion that with the canopy I will have to compromise with my
perfectionist nature and do the best I can (one can always use shims in a
few places).
John
RV9-A Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Congrats Walter |
Walter,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
>RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Congrats Walter
>Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 00:46:48 -0400
>
>
>On 08/13 10:27, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> > Just wanted to extend a big congratulations to Walter Tondu, who flew
>his
> > RV-7A for the first time today at Chino, CA. Nicely done!!!
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy - Enough Already |
John B. Szantho wrote:
>
>John McD, I agree with you 100%. The canopy is like trying to fit Jell-O
>over spaghetti, it can be done, but very frustrating. What I cannot
>understand is why we can't ask for improvement from the manufacturer of our
>kits without being criticized and berated.
>
Nobody did ..... to my knowledge. They voiced their frustration to the
list, which has no more pull than anyone else.
I guess you could use the term berated, but what I read was opinions
expressed by others from the list.
> I thought that's how we improve everything we deal with in our everyday existence.
Maybe even Van's needs some help from the pool of thousands of builders.
>
Well, the complaints are misplaced. The list can't do anything.
However, I (read ME, ME, ME) usually don't complain unless I can offer
some constructive criticism (better way, lower cost etc.) towards the
solution.
> On my part I came to the
>conclusion that with the canopy I will have to compromise with my perfectionist
nature and do the best I can (one can always use shims in a few places).
>
And that's one way to get around the problem. Maybe the solution is for
Vans to supply shim material??? If it's true, and the canopy is blown
rather than molded, (and I don't know how they do that!) and the shape
isn't totally fixed ..... then just how, other than shims, could the
problem be aleviated??? I don't have a clue either. I just like
responding with my perspective and my opinions ..... and apologize in
advance because I can't offer real help.
Linn
do not achive
>
>John
>
>RV9-A Canopy
>
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Sliding Canopy fitting tip |
Having vented in another post, here's something that may actually help
someone.
The way I finally got the front bow of the slider frame to match up to
the roll bar was this:
I took a piece of 1/8" luaun plywood and laid it across the side rails
behind the roll bar and scribed the shape of the roll bar onto it with a
pencil. I tacked the ply to my workbench and set the slider frame onto
it. I could then see exactly which parts of the front tube needed to be
tweaked in which direction and by how much. Every time you bend one
part, something else is affected, but I could see what was happening
with each incremental bend and make the correct adjustments without
fitting it to the airplane time after time. I did it all on the bench
and when it looked good on the template, it looked good on the plane.
Remember to make the bottom part where the rollers fit a little narrow
because the canopy plastic will spring it out and make the rollers drag
in the tracks if you don't.
Happy canopying,
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Szantho" <szantho(at)usa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy-Enough Already |
Linn, May be I should not have use the word berated, but comments like:
"I guess you must be
flush with money to ask Van to charge more for his kit, actually that
statement really pisses me off, once again
if you can't build it go buy something else. If you had told anyone
you
were a flyer and not a builder then the
advice would have been GO BUY SOMETHING..."
from Jerry on 8/13/05 is not very helpful and I certainly not criticizing
anyone just making
a comment and I hope I am not misinterpreting Jerry. I wish VAN's would be
more involved
in these discussions. I heard they were, but there were too many problems
and they quit.
I don't know what the problems were. Perhaps others on the list do. I am a
first time builder,
love the process and like VAN's products (with the exception of the canopy,
but I almost got
it figured out). I know they will listen and improve the canopy product also
(too late for me).
But now I better get back to my canopy fitting. Sorry if I made anyone angry
with my "berated"
comment. I don't know what I would do without all the great suggestions on
this list. I wish I
was smart enough to help more.
John
RV9-A Canopy
N3294C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Manual Flaps?, RV-7 |
Has anyone attempted to put in manual flaps in their RV-7? How
difficult is it to rig up the flaps for manual operation?
I prefer manual flaps for several reasons. The stock electric
motor has a poor track record. I like to be able to "feel" the force on the
flaps. You automatically know how far the flaps are extended.
Bill Dube' (wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Sliding Canopy fitting tip |
When I think about it, this will give you a reverse image. I probably
cut it with a jigsaw before I put it on the bench. It's been a while.
Sorry bout that.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke
Subject: RE: RV-List: Sliding Canopy fitting tip
Having vented in another post, here's something that may actually help
someone.
The way I finally got the front bow of the slider frame to match up to
the roll bar was this:
I took a piece of 1/8" luaun plywood and laid it across the side rails
behind the roll bar and scribed the shape of the roll bar onto it with a
pencil. I tacked the ply to my workbench and set the slider frame onto
it. I could then see exactly which parts of the front tube needed to be
tweaked in which direction and by how much. Every time you bend one
part, something else is affected, but I could see what was happening
with each incremental bend and make the correct adjustments without
fitting it to the airplane time after time. I did it all on the bench
and when it looked good on the template, it looked good on the plane.
Remember to make the bottom part where the rollers fit a little narrow
because the canopy plastic will spring it out and make the rollers drag
in the tracks if you don't.
Happy canopying,
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Manual Flaps?, RV-7 |
Bill,
you would just as well build it without flaps. there not strictly needed
unless you fly into very short strips. The 100MPH limit is one to watch as
the airplane takes a while to slow down, or alternatively accelerates that
fast that it goes straight through the 100MPH.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: Manual Flaps?, RV-7
>
> Has anyone attempted to put in manual flaps in their RV-7? How
> difficult is it to rig up the flaps for manual operation?
>
> I prefer manual flaps for several reasons. The stock electric
> motor has a poor track record. I like to be able to "feel" the force on
> the
> flaps. You automatically know how far the flaps are extended.
>
> Bill Dube' (wings)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Manual Flaps?, RV-7 |
I do intend to fly into short strips. Also, the flaps act as speed
brakes to help slow the airplane down, allowing a steeper approach. Of
course, the flaps reduce the stall speed too.
Bill Dube'
At 03:42 PM 8/15/2005, you wrote:
>
>Bill,
>
> you would just as well build it without flaps. there not strictly needed
>unless you fly into very short strips. The 100MPH limit is one to watch as
>the airplane takes a while to slow down, or alternatively accelerates that
>fast that it goes straight through the 100MPH.
>
>Marcel
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bill Dube" <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Manual Flaps?, RV-7
>
>
> >
> > Has anyone attempted to put in manual flaps in their RV-7? How
> > difficult is it to rig up the flaps for manual operation?
> >
> > I prefer manual flaps for several reasons. The stock electric
> > motor has a poor track record. I like to be able to "feel" the force on
> > the
> > flaps. You automatically know how far the flaps are extended.
> >
> > Bill Dube' (wings)
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Inman" <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Mixture cable too short? |
I started the engine yesterday for the first time. Big event, and it went pretty
well. I knew before the start that my mixture arm was not quite making it to
the idle cutoff stop but that was a compromise I had to make in order to reach
the full rich stop. I would say the idle stop was short by about 1/8 inch, just
enough to cause the engine to continue to run with the mixture lever off.
Prior to the start, and months ago while rigging the control cables I spent hours
trying to adjust the cable/rod ends to achieve full travel to both stops but
in the end had to compromise. It appears that the cable, or maybe the quadrant,
does not have enough travel to accomplish both.
I've been in the archives and have seen similar problems but no clues as to the
fix. My thoughts are to perhaps move the attach point up on the mixture lever
(Van's deluxe quadrant, and Cable too), thus providing more travel for any given
lever movement and hopefully attain the little extra needed to hit both stops.
I realize this fix will only work if the quadrant is the problem. But what
if it's the cable that does not have the necessary travel?
Your thoughts, comments, and suggestions please.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S
Steve
I have the same problem with
my RV-8 with bendix fuel inj. In my case it is
the cables I got from Van's.they have only 2"
throw.Not enough for the throttle and just barely
enough for the mixture
The quadrant has a bit more than 2" throw
I think I might move the attach point up a bit
on the throttle arm.
George Inman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Manual Flaps?, RV-7 |
Bill, I don't see why the manual flap weldment from the -6 couldn't be
adapted. The floor ribs on the -7 are different than the 6, so the only
thing that will likely be affected is the notched plate that the flap handle
engages with. The flap handle would sit a little higher off the floor. I
don't think this would take much work to accomplish. I have manual flaps in
my -6 and love them, as you can control the flaps instantly. I have many
times conspired on how to put manual flaps in my F1 which would be a bit
more challenging to do since the flap arm behind the pax seat like the RV-8.
If you have access to a tig welder you could fabricate your own flap arm.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On 8/15/05, Bill Dube wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone attempted to put in manual flaps in their RV-7? How
> difficult is it to rig up the flaps for manual operation?
>
> I prefer manual flaps for several reasons. The stock electric
> motor has a poor track record. I like to be able to "feel" the force on
> the
> flaps. You automatically know how far the flaps are extended.
>
> Bill Dube' (wings)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Photo for presentation |
On Wednesday, I'm giving a presentation titled, "Homebuilt Aviation:
Cunning Plan or Proof of Insanity?" I am applying the final touches
and am hoping for a few more photos.
One photo I would like is an RV obviously engaged in some
demonstration of "fun" such as aerobatics. I'm trying to show in a
photo that an RV is more fun to fly than a Cessna, and the audience
is NOT composed of pilots.
If anyone has any photos I could use for this, please let me know.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Photo for presentation |
How about one of these?
http://rvproject.com/images/2005/20050723_roll1.jpg
http://rvproject.com/images/2005/20050723_dan_upside_down.jpg
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (592 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Subject: RV-List: Photo for presentation
>
> On Wednesday, I'm giving a presentation titled, "Homebuilt Aviation:
> Cunning Plan or Proof of Insanity?" I am applying the final touches
> and am hoping for a few more photos.
>
> One photo I would like is an RV obviously engaged in some
> demonstration of "fun" such as aerobatics. I'm trying to show in a
> photo that an RV is more fun to fly than a Cessna, and the audience
> is NOT composed of pilots.
>
> If anyone has any photos I could use for this, please let me know.
>
> -Joe
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Photo for presentation |
Joe Larson wrote:
>
> On Wednesday, I'm giving a presentation titled, "Homebuilt Aviation:
> Cunning Plan or Proof of Insanity?" I am applying the final touches
> and am hoping for a few more photos.
>
> One photo I would like is an RV obviously engaged in some
> demonstration of "fun" such as aerobatics. I'm trying to show in a
> photo that an RV is more fun to fly than a Cessna, and the audience
> is NOT composed of pilots.
Your making a presentation to non-pilots and the word "Insanity" is in
your title?!?
Wow.....bet Phil Boyer and the PR guys at AOPA would really get a charge
out of this one....
I wish you the best with your presentation but hope you reconsider the
title.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, trying for years to convince non-flying folks we
aren't insane...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture cable too short? |
In a message dated 08/15/2005 4:39:33 PM Central Standard Time,
ghinman(at)mts.net writes:
. But what
if it's the cable that does not have the necessary travel?
>>>
This may not be relevant to your situation, just something I've noticed on
mine- I also can't seem to get full idle cutoff every time, even though the
mixture arm (O-320, MA-4 carb) appears to go all the way to the carb body when
I'm
looking at it (assuming is does so in flight!). But I've also noticed that I
have to pull the knob out over one inch before mixture begins to lean enough
to affect engine rpm above 3-4000', and EGTs don't start going up until the
knob is pulled almost that far- about 3/4". Wondering if that first inch of
travel is having no (or little) effect on mixture and could be re-rigged for more
positive idle cutoff? In other words, re-rig so at full rich, the carb arm
is not quite to its stop, allowing available travel to pull the mixture lever
more into idle cutoff?
Another suspicion is that some fuel is leaking past a worn mixture valve even
when at full cutoff, or possibly idle mixture a bit too rich?
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Photo for presentation |
>
> How about one of these?
>
> http://rvproject.com/images/2005/20050723_roll1.jpg
> http://rvproject.com/images/2005/20050723_dan_upside_down.jpg
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (592 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
All right, Dan, that ain't being upside down. See:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/66AP%20inverted%20with%20Tom%203
.jpg
The picture is a little crummy because it was taken from video.
Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP 654 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Photo for presentation |
Title page of the OVRV Yahoo group shows an RV formation as pretty as you'll ever
see ; I think it's on Doug Reeves' site as well. 5 or 6 vertical stabs all
lined up perfectly...
-Stormy
not in the picture; wish I was that good :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Subject: RV-List: Photo for presentation
On Wednesday, I'm giving a presentation titled, "Homebuilt Aviation:
Cunning Plan or Proof of Insanity?" I am applying the final touches
and am hoping for a few more photos.
One photo I would like is an RV obviously engaged in some
demonstration of "fun" such as aerobatics. I'm trying to show in a
photo that an RV is more fun to fly than a Cessna, and the audience
is NOT composed of pilots.
If anyone has any photos I could use for this, please let me know.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Piavis" <piavis(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Cross-Country Route SF to SEA |
I'm looking at taking a low & slow biplane from the Bay Area to Seattle area
in two weeks and was thinking of just following I-5 up north. Is it
preferable to stay east of the Cascades until as far north as possible or
just go IFR? Anyone have a good recommendation on an RON in the Portland
Area or just south?
Thanks,
Jim
-7 Fuse
(Progress nil due to re-location)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henry Hochberg <aeroncadoc(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cross-Country Route SF to SEA |
Weather permitting, take the coastal route, generally lower MEA's if you
do have to file IFR and the views are superb. If not, again weather
permitting, go west of the cascades and RON in McMinnville. Get a tour
of the spruce goose museum.
An IFR biplane.......couldn't be a Staggerwing, that would be too fast.
Henry H.
Piavis wrote:
>
>I'm looking at taking a low & slow biplane from the Bay Area to Seattle area
>in two weeks and was thinking of just following I-5 up north. Is it
>preferable to stay east of the Cascades until as far north as possible or
>just go IFR? Anyone have a good recommendation on an RON in the Portland
>Area or just south?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim
>-7 Fuse
>(Progress nil due to re-location)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | EZ-Pilot problem |
autolearn=no version=3.0.2
Well It wasnt easy, but I finally got it together. had to take the servo back out
and drill out the arm atach hole because somebody forgot to do it. Then on
fire up it pulled the stick almost max left and ocilated like crazy, and corections
were backward, no sweat, reading on I learned all I had to do was reverse
the servo. Ok did that, still on turn on it pulled the stick near max left,
in fact if I put that much control in it would have done a fast aileron roll.
Called for help, Oh all you have to do is disasemble the control arm off the servo
which instructions told you to glue on, then experiment with moveing the
arm around, crawling back in the plane and turning it on, then keep trying till
it might miraculisly center itelf. Wow! What a deal! for only $1800, you can
get an almost working unit! All you have to do is spend couple hundred dollars
worth of time and it might even work!!! What a peice of Shit!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Van Winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cross-Country Route SF to SEA |
Piavis
If you want to RON in the Portland area, You might consider McMinnville, Or,
about 40 miles SW of Portland. The Evergreen Aviation Museum is right across
the road from the airport with the "Spruce Goose" and many other outstanding
aircraft. We were there just last month and would highly recommend it if you
haven't been there before. Have a safe journey!
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Piavis" <piavis(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cross-Country Route SF to SEA
>
> I'm looking at taking a low & slow biplane from the Bay Area to Seattle
> area
> in two weeks and was thinking of just following I-5 up north. Is it
> preferable to stay east of the Cascades until as far north as possible or
> just go IFR? Anyone have a good recommendation on an RON in the Portland
> Area or just south?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
> -7 Fuse
> (Progress nil due to re-location)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron pushrod and wing mounting |
In a message dated 8/14/05 8:11:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jorear(at)new.rr.com writes:
> My plan has been to get the wings mounted and then make up my pushrods and
> fish them through the wing via the lightening holes. I figure that once I
> get them to the bellcrank, I can finish getting them into the fuselage by
> grabbing them at the aileron bellcrank access.
>
That's exactly how I did it and it worked fine for me. Wrap them with
masking tape to
avoid scratching them as you feed them through the lightening holes. Don't
cut the
inboard end until the first trial fit, then you can see just how long they
need to be.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 118 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Manual Flaps?, RV-7 |
Mark, your aol email has not been working for the last couple days :-(
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
On Mon, 15 Aug 2005, Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote...
>
>In a message dated 08/15/2005 3:45:15 PM Central Standard Time,
>deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com writes:
>The stock electric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Photos for presentation |
Wow! You guys all have some amazing photographs. Everyone who has
shared your photos, thank you.
The talk is tomorrow at noon. If no one hears from me again, you can
assume that the collective decision was "insane", and the guys in the
white jackets took me to my new home before I could hurt myself in that
contraption.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-Pilot problem |
----- Original Message -----
From: charlie heathco
Subject: RV-List: EZ-Pilot problem
Thanks to the fact, that I had installed radio control servo's for many years,
before installing my EZ Pilot.....
I'm aware that a servo arm needs a hole, although mine was drilled. I'm also aware
that arms often need to be repositioned to fit the task. And the fact that
reverse polarity to change motor direction is also common; though, as I remember,
it can be done electronically with this unit. If I didn't have a clue about
servo positioning to start with, I'd have first checked it's operation without
the arms connected to the control surfaces, stick, etc. to avoid damage.
What I'm reading here, is that you hadn't thought it all out, during installation
& first use. But then you call it a piece of shit anyway....
| Date: | Aug 16, 2005 |
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| From: | "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com> |
Subject: RV7 up elevator stop
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 09:19:36 -0500
Hey gang,
The drawing for the up elevator stop shows a piece of 1x1x1/8" angle cut down to
3/4x3/4 (except for the middle portion where the horn hits, which is 13/16").
I find that a standard piece of 3/4x3/4x0.125 angle will allow just a tad more
travel than called for in the manual (~33 deg vs. 30 deg). Does anyone out there
have any experience with this or know of any reason why this would be a problem?
Hey gang,
The drawing for the up elevator stop shows a piece of 1x1x1/8"
angle cut down to 3/4x3/4 (except for the middle portion where the horn hits,
which is 13/16").
I find that a standard piece of 3/4x3/4x0.125 angle will
allow just a tad more travel than called for in the manual (~33 deg vs. 30 deg).
Does anyone out there have any experience with this or know of any reason why
this would be a problem?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)sled.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | RV6A Project for Sale |
Contact me back channel for additional information.
RV6A for sale
Baltimore / Washington D.C. area
Non-prepunched. Complete documentation, photo album and builders logbook.
Registered N700RV.
Empennage:
Completed except for some fiberglass.
Wings:
Left wing completed except for fiberglass.
Right wing completed except for fiberglass and main skins, inverted fuel
option, electric and manual flap actuator, Whalen wing-tip strobes and
wiring harness, heated pitot, tie down rings, taxi and landing light kit.
Fuselage:
Completed in jig, ready to fit wings and gear and remove from jig to finish
top and cockpit. Includes dual brake assemblies, two five-point Hooker
aerobatic harnesses (including mounting details finished), dual entry
steps, NACA vent kits, plumbing, and eyeball vents, sliding canopy, Panel
circuit breaker/switches (with spares), RC Allen Flight gyros, all flight
instruments, accelerometer, fuel gauges, firewall recess kit (installed).
Includes custom-made metal fuselage jig.
Finishing kit:
Inventoried, not started.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | sub-panel construction |
Those of you side-by-side (-6 & -7 model) builders who have installed your instruments
and avionics on removable sub-panels, using the original panel blank as
a Swiss cheese framework to hold the panels together: did you find it necessary
to use the same thickness of sheet for the sub-panels, or were you able to
go lighter?
I'm at work, and I think from memory the RV-6 panel blank is .065" but it may be
.080" - wondering if there's enough stiffness in 3 smaller panels to make them
a gauge or two thinner and save some weight. I'm planning a gradual conversion
in several iterations to e3nd up with all glass diplays plus an IFR radio
stack, but always looking to save a few ounces here and there when making changes.
What has worked for you guys?
Thanks,
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
Want more excitement?
Travel is limited to control the amount of pressure the part will experience
at full deflection and when you are cruising along and a sudden wind change
might cause you to take strong corrective action. Keep in mind, these
planes are super sensitive and responsive within described limits. You want
to yank on it the limit knowing you have it at 33 rather than 30 degrees???
You think maybe the DAR will not find this and therefore not issue your AWC?
You think your insurance company will pay off if a crash occurs and was
caused by the change?
I hope I have given you a couple of good reasons to consider building the
plane as the designer intended in this matter.
Best wishes and Good luck,
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies.........Keep squeezing those
rivets......
Teamwork: " A lot of people doing exactly what I say."
(Marketing exec., Citrix Corp.)
----- Original Message ----- > I find that a standard piece of 3/4x3/4x0.125
angle will allow just a tad more travel than called for in the manual (~33
deg vs. 30 deg). Does anyone out there have any experience with this or
know of any reason why this would be a problem?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-Pilot problem |
version=3.0.2
I followed the instructions to the letter, nothing about doing what you
said. Not all of us are blessed with your qualifications. Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: EZ-Pilot problem
----- Original Message -----
From: charlie heathco
Subject: RV-List: EZ-Pilot problem
Thanks to the fact, that I had installed radio control servo's for many
years, before installing my EZ Pilot.....
I'm aware that a servo arm needs a hole, although mine was drilled. I'm also
aware that arms often need to be repositioned to fit the task. And the fact
that reverse polarity to change motor direction is also common; though, as I
remember, it can be done electronically with this unit. If I didn't have a
clue about servo positioning to start with, I'd have first checked it's
operation without the arms connected to the control surfaces, stick, etc. to
avoid damage.
What I'm reading here, is that you hadn't thought it all out, during
installation & first use. But then you call it a piece of shit anyway....
| Date: | Aug 16, 2005 |
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: sub-panel construction |
I used a removable subpanel for my eight-pack and made the rest of the panel removable
after that. I got the longer panel from Van's for some more real estate...switches
etc....
I've got photos......zap me direct
-----Original Message-----
From: sportav8r(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: sub-panel construction
Those of you side-by-side (-6 & -7 model) builders who have installed your instruments
and avionics on removable sub-panels, using the original panel blank as
a Swiss cheese framework to hold the panels together: did you find it necessary
to use the same thickness of sheet for the sub-panels, or were you able to
go lighter?
I'm at work, and I think from memory the RV-6 panel blank is .065" but it may be
.080" - wondering if there's enough stiffness in 3 smaller panels to make them
a gauge or two thinner and save some weight. I'm planning a gradual conversion
in several iterations to e3nd up with all glass diplays plus an IFR radio
stack, but always looking to save a few ounces here and there when making changes.
What has worked for you guys?
Thanks,
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Photo for presentation |
Ed,
You've been staring at your canopy frame too long! :-)
That's an optical illusion, called the Hering Illusion.
http://www.michaelbach.de/ot/ang_hering/index.html
Best regards,
Mickey
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> Does that airplane have forward sweep on it's wings? The elevator hinge
> line and wing leading edge lines appear straight so I'm doubting fisheye
> lens effect.
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Using the S word |
autolearn=no version=3.0.2
I appologise to the list for using the S word, I was in a state of major frustration.
It has been clear to me for some time that I made a very GOOD decision
to buy a flying plane. I can do anything with wood, not a metals man. In spite
of 22 yrs in electronics and computer inst and repair, (ended in 1980, went
into home repairs and building), I was also frustrated trying to work with connecting
up those tiney wires! At 66 yrs old I should be flying and sitting in
my easy chair, not messing with this stuff, but I am possesed with the need to
understand and know how. I also take back the statement that I considered the
trio is a piece of S. Jerry is a good and honorable man, I just happened to get
a faulty unit. I very much appreciate the opportunity to be on this list, much
good stuff goes on here. Charlie Heathco, Boerne Stage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: sub-panel construction |
I used only one sub-panel for my flight instruments (old fashioned six pack)
and for that I used 0.125 sheet to give it some rigidity after filling it with
3 1/8 in. holes. BTW, the stock panel is 0.063. I also reinforced the
cutouts in the panel with 3/4 X 3/4 X 0.063 angle to replace the lost strength
and
stiffness. I'd do it the same way again.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 118 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | sub-panel construction |
I would not recommend going thinner. You can see my panel at
johnfurey(at)myphotoalbums.com
John
RV6A
F1 Rocket in the oven
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.2
Havent seen anything new in archives, anyone able to comment on the P-Mag? My left
mag, recently OHed, drops 120, and I have been wanting to convert. Charlie
heathco, Boerne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture cable too short? |
It would be helpful to know whether it was the cable or the quadrant
that is causing the problem. If it's the cable then you would need a
shorter mixture arm on the carb / FI servo. If it's the quadrant then
simply move the attach point further out (away from the rotation axis).
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
George Inman wrote:
>
>I started the engine yesterday for the first time. Big event, and it went pretty
>well. I knew before the start that my mixture arm was not quite making it to
>the idle cutoff stop but that was a compromise I had to make in order to reach
>the full rich stop. I would say the idle stop was short by about 1/8 inch, just
>enough to cause the engine to continue to run with the mixture lever off.
>Prior to the start, and months ago while rigging the control cables I spent hours
>trying to adjust the cable/rod ends to achieve full travel to both stops but
>in the end had to compromise. It appears that the cable, or maybe the quadrant,
>does not have enough travel to accomplish both.
>
>I've been in the archives and have seen similar problems but no clues as to the
>fix. My thoughts are to perhaps move the attach point up on the mixture lever
>(Van's deluxe quadrant, and Cable too), thus providing more travel for any given
>lever movement and hopefully attain the little extra needed to hit both stops.
>I realize this fix will only work if the quadrant is the problem. But what
>if it's the cable that does not have the necessary travel?
>
>Your thoughts, comments, and suggestions please.
>
>Steve Struyk
>RV-8, N842S
>
>
> Steve
> I have the same problem with
>my RV-8 with bendix fuel inj. In my case it is
>the cables I got from Van's.they have only 2"
>throw.Not enough for the throttle and just barely
>enough for the mixture
> The quadrant has a bit more than 2" throw
>I think I might move the attach point up a bit
>on the throttle arm.
>
>George Inman
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Photo for presentation |
OK, but I put a piece of paper along the edge on my monitor so I don't
think it's Hering's illusion. I'm going with dihedral and/or lens
effect.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: Re: RV-List: Photo for presentation
Ed,
You've been staring at your canopy frame too long! :-)
That's an optical illusion, called the Hering Illusion.
http://www.michaelbach.de/ot/ang_hering/index.html
Best regards,
Mickey
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> Does that airplane have forward sweep on it's wings? The elevator
hinge
> line and wing leading edge lines appear straight so I'm doubting
fisheye
> lens effect.
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
socal-rvlist(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Tax question about personal use on company owned plane... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Hopefully some of you can give me insight on this issue. My company just bought
an airplane as a benefit for me. I have to pay taxes for
personal use time. My question is this. How do you determine the amount that an
hour cost to determine how much I pay taxes on? If you
base it on the total cost of ownership, then I can get really screwed and it is
no benefit at all. If you base it on the cost of the plane flying
for 1 hour, it seems fair. But my accountant seems to think it is on the TCO not
the cost per hour to fly... If the plane cost $10,000 a year
for all expenses, and it flys 1 hour, is it normal for the company to put a benefit
of $10,000 on that employees paycheck as a benefit and
have them pay $5,000 (or whatever your tax rate is) for the honor of that one hour
of flight?
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Overhaul Question |
I have a few questions for the engine gurus out there. All pertain to a
Lycoming O-320-E2D.
1) What sort of sealer and/or lubricant do you use with the crankshaft nose
seal? The Overhaul Manual calls for Pliobond No.20 but I can't find the
stuff.
2) I got new bearings but am confused by the location of the holes for the
locator dowells in the Crankcase halfs. The dowels in the case halfs are
centered in the bottom of the journals but the holes in the bearing halves
are offset from the center. This doesn't look right yet the part numbers
are the correct part numbers. What am I missing here?
3) How does one reassemble one of these without the "Clylinder Hold Down
Any help and advice on putting the engine back together is appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fall Classic RV Fly-in |
To inform everyone that we are having again this year our EAA Chapter 863
Fall Classic RV Fly-in on Sept 17th at (M54) Lebanon,Tn
20 miles east of Nashville,Tn.Mike Seager will be there for RV
instruction the 16th17th and 18th.
There will be aircraft judging and food etc..For instruction time slots
call me at home and I will set you up..
John McMahon (RV6 863JJ)
615-452-8742
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tax question about personal use on company owned plane... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
version=3.0.2
Thats an easy one Matt, just dont turn inany time for personal use. Back in
the 70's when i was a computer equip fixer, thats what we did and the
company new about it. Charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tax question about personal use on company owned plane...
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Hopefully some of you can give me insight on this issue. My company just
bought an airplane as a benefit for me. I have to pay taxes for
personal use time. My question is this. How do you determine the amount that
an hour cost to determine how much I pay taxes on? If you
base it on the total cost of ownership, then I can get really screwed and it
is no benefit at all. If you base it on the cost of the plane flying
for 1 hour, it seems fair. But my accountant seems to think it is on the TCO
not the cost per hour to fly... If the plane cost $10,000 a year
for all expenses, and it flys 1 hour, is it normal for the company to put a
benefit of $10,000 on that employees paycheck as a benefit and
have them pay $5,000 (or whatever your tax rate is) for the honor of that
one hour of flight?
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Question |
version=3.0.2
Richard sounds like you are in deep S. I can tell you that the front seal
was replaced with no lub on my cherokee by A&P . You seem to be in to deep,
save your butt and get help. charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Engine Overhaul Question
I have a few questions for the engine gurus out there. All pertain to a
Lycoming O-320-E2D.
1) What sort of sealer and/or lubricant do you use with the crankshaft nose
seal? The Overhaul Manual calls for Pliobond No.20 but I can't find the
stuff.
2) I got new bearings but am confused by the location of the holes for the
locator dowells in the Crankcase halfs. The dowels in the case halfs are
centered in the bottom of the journals but the holes in the bearing halves
are offset from the center. This doesn't look right yet the part numbers
are the correct part numbers. What am I missing here?
3) How does one reassemble one of these without the "Clylinder Hold Down
Any help and advice on putting the engine back together is appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbine Engines for RVs |
From the facts as I understand them, the only way a turbine engine
makes sense, as in dollars and cents, is if you plan on spending most of
your time above 30,000 ft. At that height the increase in TAS will make
up for increase in fuel burn. However, I think you would have to be
crazy to regularly fly much over 18,000 ft in an unpressurized plane.
--
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Question |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Aircraft Spruce has Pliobond. I have a link to the Lyc SI 1324A on my
site here:
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2004/12/gaskets_seals.html
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 120 Hrs.
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Richard Bibb said:
>
> I have a few questions for the engine gurus out there. All pertain to a
> Lycoming O-320-E2D.
>
> 1) What sort of sealer and/or lubricant do you use with the crankshaft
> nose
> seal? The Overhaul Manual calls for Pliobond No.20 but I can't find the
> stuff.
>
> 2) I got new bearings but am confused by the location of the holes for
> the
> locator dowells in the Crankcase halfs. The dowels in the case halfs are
> centered in the bottom of the journals but the holes in the bearing halves
> are offset from the center. This doesn't look right yet the part numbers
> are the correct part numbers. What am I missing here?
>
> 3) How does one reassemble one of these without the "Clylinder Hold Down
>
> Any help and advice on putting the engine back together is appreciated.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Question |
Thanks for the link.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Overhaul Question
>
> Aircraft Spruce has Pliobond. I have a link to the Lyc SI 1324A on my
> site here:
>
> http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2004/12/gaskets_seals.html
>
> -
> Larry Bowen, RV-8 120 Hrs.
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> Richard Bibb said:
> >
> > I have a few questions for the engine gurus out there. All pertain to a
> > Lycoming O-320-E2D.
> >
> > 1) What sort of sealer and/or lubricant do you use with the crankshaft
> > nose
> > seal? The Overhaul Manual calls for Pliobond No.20 but I can't find the
> > stuff.
> >
> > 2) I got new bearings but am confused by the location of the holes for
> > the
> > locator dowells in the Crankcase halfs. The dowels in the case halfs
are
> > centered in the bottom of the journals but the holes in the bearing
halves
> > are offset from the center. This doesn't look right yet the part
numbers
> > are the correct part numbers. What am I missing here?
> >
> > 3) How does one reassemble one of these without the "Clylinder Hold
Down
> >
> > Any help and advice on putting the engine back together is appreciated.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Photo for presentation |
I put it in to MS paint and there is appearance of forward sweep. I am
guessing that it is because the nose of the airplane is farther from the
camera than the tail and what we see is really dihedral.
Just a guess.
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Patterson" <kbob(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Rudder stops |
----- Original Message ----- > I find that a standard piece of 3/4x3/4x0.125
angle will allow just a tad more travel than called for in the manual (~33
deg vs. 30 deg). Does anyone out there have any experience with this or
know of any reason why this would be a problem?
OK - I have a reason.
I found the rudder hitting the elevators at full deflection during final
fit. The easy fix was to screw in the rudder pivot ball joints, which made
the rudder contact the stops earlier. The hard fix would be to make the
stops over and make sure you only get 30 degrees... I did the easy fix.
Kelly Patterson
N716K priming pinholes
PHX, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Control Surfaces Deflection Limits |
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
The posting 17 Aug regarding elevator deflection raised a question. I
thought the control deflection limits shown in the flight prep section
of the builder's manual referred to connected controls with limits
imposed by the stick / control rod assembly - not the unconnected
physical stops caused by contact with other aircraft parts. I'm about to
cut the HS aft spar flange to allow adequate elevator clearance. I am
concerned about achieving minimum clearance, but figured the max
limitation would be imposed by how tight I constructed "the system". Am
I wrong?
Paul Valovich
Ridgecrest, CA
RV-8A QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Yesterday, I was asked my opinion about green oil. The oil was being
drained from an O-320 equipped spam can and the long time A&P mechanic said he
encounters this phenomena roughly once every 100 oil changes or so. I went to
his hangar next door to take a look and sure enough, the subject airplane was
being drained of Phillips 20W-50W and the oil clearly appeared to be pale olive
drab in color as it was draining out of the crankcase into a waste receptacle.
At first I thought it might have been some sort of an illusion but the olive
green color remained present as I sampled a drop or two on my fingers. I must
admit I've never witnessed this before, but then I've not nearly as much experience
with oil changes as this long time professional A&P who has often wondered
why this sometimes occurs. So I have to ask members of this list who just
might know the answer.........what sometimes causes engine oil to turn green?
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
This happened on our club aircraft, a wooden homebuilt that runs an O-235.
Our club aircraft was frequently flown for 15-20 minute flights, and then
put away. People would come out, do their 5 circuits (short grass strip,
each circuit can be pretty quick) to stay current, put the plane away, and
go home. One day we changed the oil and while it's draining noticed that
it was all a uniform milky colour... It might have had a green tinge to it,
but my recollection was that it was more of a greyish off-white colour.
We concluded that the short runs of the engine weren't enough to get the
oil up to temperature for long enough to boil off any moisture that had
accumulated in the down time between flights, and the extra moisture in the
oil caused it to turn a milky colour. Two AME's that were asked about it
agreed that was the likely cause. They also agreed that in order to burn
off the impurities on each flight, the airplane needed to be flown for at
least half an hour.
Since then, we instituted a minimum half-hour billing per flight, so all
flights less than half an hour are billed for 0.5 hour anyway. That way,
we hope people will have an incentive to fly it for at least that long.
Since this policy, we haven't seen the milky oil again.
-Rob
On 7:36:55 2005-08-17 Rick Galati wrote:
>
> Yesterday, I was asked my opinion about green oil. The oil was being
> drained from an O-320 equipped spam can and the long time A&P
> mechanic said he encounters this phenomena roughly once every 100 oil
> changes or so. I went to his hangar next door to take a look and sure
> enough, the subject airplane was being drained of Phillips 20W-50W and
> the oil clearly appeared to be pale olive drab in color as it was
> draining out of the crankcase into a waste receptacle. At first I
> thought it might have been some sort of an illusion but the olive green
> color remained present as I sampled a drop or two on my fingers. I must
> admit I've never witnessed this before, but then I've not nearly as
> much experience with oil changes as this long time professional A&P who
> has often wondered why this sometimes occurs. So I have to ask members
> of this list who just might know the answer.........what sometimes
> causes engine oil to turn green?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
The dye in 100LL can turn a greenish color. My guess is that you had some
fuel dilution from something. Possibly a bad fuel pump, or a really badly
flooded start.
The fuel boils off, but the dye stays in the oil.
Tailwinds,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Green Oil
>
> Yesterday, I was asked my opinion about green oil. The oil was being
> drained from an O-320 equipped spam can and the long time A&P mechanic
> said he encounters this phenomena roughly once every 100 oil changes or
> so. I went to his hangar next door to take a look and sure enough, the
> subject airplane was being drained of Phillips 20W-50W and the oil clearly
> appeared to be pale olive drab in color as it was draining out of the
> crankcase into a waste receptacle. At first I thought it might have been
> some sort of an illusion but the olive green color remained present as I
> sampled a drop or two on my fingers. I must admit I've never witnessed
> this before, but then I've not nearly as much experience with oil changes
> as this long time professional A&P who has often wondered why this
> sometimes occurs. So I have to ask members of this list who just might
> know the answer.........what sometimes causes engine oil to turn green?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Surfaces Deflection Limits |
All of the control surfaces on the plane have positive control stops at
the control surfaces. IOW they will stop at the angles listed whether
or not they are connected to the control rods / cables. The exceptions
to this are, the aileron down travel limit is reached when the opposite
aileron hits it's up stop, and the flaps stop when the actuator reaches
the end of it's travel.
Some will get away with not installing the aileron stops because the
bolt on the hinge bracket winds up hitting the hinge at just the right
angle. The rudder stops are required or you'll get the rudder into the
elevators. There are positive stops on the elevator for up and down.
These are bolted to the fuselage aft deck and stop the travel of the
elevator horns. The up elevator stop is not used on my airplane because
the control horn wound up hitting the aft bulkhead before it hit the
stop and the angle was about right. Van's said this was okay.
Cut the flange per the plans and it will work out.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Valovich, Paul wrote:
>
>The posting 17 Aug regarding elevator deflection raised a question. I
>thought the control deflection limits shown in the flight prep section
>of the builder's manual referred to connected controls with limits
>imposed by the stick / control rod assembly - not the unconnected
>physical stops caused by contact with other aircraft parts. I'm about to
>cut the HS aft spar flange to allow adequate elevator clearance. I am
>concerned about achieving minimum clearance, but figured the max
>limitation would be imposed by how tight I constructed "the system". Am
>I wrong?
>
>Paul Valovich
>
>Ridgecrest, CA
>
>RV-8A QB
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep |
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by Stu McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow the sequence previously used at our other successful formation clinics. The clinic targets RV type aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and airspeeds will be considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation backgrounds from no experience to highly experienced, but all registrants should have excellent stick and rudder skills. We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little experience, 1/3 medium experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we expect participants to be prepared by obtaining and studying referenced materials. To read clinic info, to register, as well as to make your motel reservations, go here http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be held only until
8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
Stu McCurdy
Falcon Flight
FFI
RV-8
The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene Regional
Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by Stu McCurdy and
Mike Stewart and will follow the sequence
previously used at our other successful formation clinics. The clinic targets
RV type aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and airspeeds will be
considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation backgrounds from no
experience to highly experienced, but all registrants should have excellent stick
and rudder skills. We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little experience, 1/3 medium experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we expect participants to be prepared by obtaining and studying referenced materials. To read clinic info, to register, as well as to make your motel reservations, go here http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be held only until 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
Stu McCurdy
Falcon Flight
FFI
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Jet powered Cessna 150 |
There's actually good reason to clarify it if you ever have an incident - the eco-cops
get bent over jet/kerosene/diesel spills and can mandate expensive clean-up
and remediation, i.e. replace the dirty dirt with clean dirt. The TNRCC
(TX eco-cops) mandates reporting for spills over 24 gal so never spill full tanks:-)
Greg
________________________________
Breathless lady reporter then asked the on the scene reporter what was being done
to address the hazard of all that jet fuel that the Cessna spewed into the
school.
At least intrepid on the scene journalist stated that actually it was Avgas which
was way more volatile but did not say how hazard was being addressed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
version=3.0.2
Rob, milky oil is sure fire indication of water in it. I found that out
about 15 yrs ago when I bought an engine for my truck and didnt give any
thought to the oil haveing a milky collor, turnes out it had a blown head
gasket and water was giting into the oil. Charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Green Oil
This happened on our club aircraft, a wooden homebuilt that runs an O-235.
Our club aircraft was frequently flown for 15-20 minute flights, and then
put away. People would come out, do their 5 circuits (short grass strip,
each circuit can be pretty quick) to stay current, put the plane away, and
go home. One day we changed the oil and while it's draining noticed that
it was all a uniform milky colour... It might have had a green tinge to it,
but my recollection was that it was more of a greyish off-white colour.
We concluded that the short runs of the engine weren't enough to get the
oil up to temperature for long enough to boil off any moisture that had
accumulated in the down time between flights, and the extra moisture in the
oil caused it to turn a milky colour. Two AME's that were asked about it
agreed that was the likely cause. They also agreed that in order to burn
off the impurities on each flight, the airplane needed to be flown for at
least half an hour.
Since then, we instituted a minimum half-hour billing per flight, so all
flights less than half an hour are billed for 0.5 hour anyway. That way,
we hope people will have an incentive to fly it for at least that long.
Since this policy, we haven't seen the milky oil again.
-Rob
On 7:36:55 2005-08-17 Rick Galati wrote:
>
> Yesterday, I was asked my opinion about green oil. The oil was being
> drained from an O-320 equipped spam can and the long time A&P
> mechanic said he encounters this phenomena roughly once every 100 oil
> changes or so. I went to his hangar next door to take a look and sure
> enough, the subject airplane was being drained of Phillips 20W-50W and
> the oil clearly appeared to be pale olive drab in color as it was
> draining out of the crankcase into a waste receptacle. At first I
> thought it might have been some sort of an illusion but the olive green
> color remained present as I sampled a drop or two on my fingers. I must
> admit I've never witnessed this before, but then I've not nearly as
> much experience with oil changes as this long time professional A&P who
> has often wondered why this sometimes occurs. So I have to ask members
> of this list who just might know the answer.........what sometimes
> causes engine oil to turn green?
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jet powered Cessna 150 |
version=3.0.2
Re previous ref to 150's, let me give you an interesting viewpiont. Last
year when I havd my cherokee 140 I looked up the regs on all the planes I
flew durring and shortly after training, (I didnt fly again for 35 yrs) Out
of 14 cherokee 140/180 all but one still flying. the 54 Apache still flying,
out of the 3 150s, one still flying, the 172, not flying.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Jet powered Cessna 150
There's actually good reason to clarify it if you ever have an incident -
the eco-cops get bent over jet/kerosene/diesel spills and can mandate
expensive clean-up and remediation, i.e. replace the dirty dirt with clean
dirt. The TNRCC (TX eco-cops) mandates reporting for spills over 24 gal so
never spill full tanks:-)
Greg
________________________________
Breathless lady reporter then asked the on the scene reporter what was being
done to address the hazard of all that jet fuel that the Cessna spewed into
the school.
At least intrepid on the scene journalist stated that actually it was Avgas
which was way more volatile but did not say how hazard was being addressed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Aerobatics training |
autolearn=no version=3.0.2
I was sheduled with an insructor 2 times in Lvl ga, and first time winds were too
high, secodn time it was raining, so never got the training. Is there anyone
in the Boerne Tx area that I can work with? This guy was going to teach me in
his plane, but I would prefer to get the training in my 6a. I know it is said
that arobatics should be done single pilot, but I have been psgr in a 6a doing
4 point rolls, and Mike also has pix of him doing rolls with a psgr. In spite
of fact that whill building time for my Coml in 68, I did lots of loops, HH
stalls, high speed runns 25 feet off the ground in Maryland farm fields, low
level cross controled landings to a 300' stop, I cant seem to get up the courage
now to do anything beyond 90 deg banks, wing overs, and high G pullups.
(chicken charlie)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Metal Strips |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the
small screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
Are these the strips that are used for the wing/fuse intersection fairing?
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I
> can't seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a
> potential excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what
> these strips are used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the
> removable wingtips. I know Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people
> were breaking or stripping the small screws. What options have worked
> well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Metal Strips |
They are probably cutting scraps that they send for general use.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 654 hours
Maple Grove, MN
>
> -->
>
> Are these the strips that are used for the wing/fuse
> intersection fairing?
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips
>
>
> >
> > All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my
> wing kit that I
> > can't seem to determine what they are used for. I am
> eyeballing them as a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
I have the same things flapping around. I used one of them -- I think -- to back
up a flap hinge...before deciding that was a waste of time and weight. The rest
I've put aside for wing tip use as you described.
Bob
St. Paul
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
> seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
> excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
> used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
> Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the small
> screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
>
>
>
I have the same things flapping around. I used one of them -- I think -- to back
up a flap hinge...before deciding that was a waste of time and weight. The rest
I've put aside for wing tip use as you described.
Bob
St. Paul
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: ""
All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the small
screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
e,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
Scott,
Those sound like the wing intersection fairings. They close the gap
between the wing root ant the fuselage with a rubber gasket against the
fuselage. Since there are two and they are 48" by 3", that is my best
guess. I wouldn't cut them until you determine they are for something else.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A flying
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com wrote:
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the
small screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
That is what I used these for on my RV6. Used #6 stainless flush head screws
and nutplates. The 1/2" wide strips went between the nutplate and the
wingtip. My Aeroflash powerpacks are in each wing tip so needed removable
tips.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
N296JC RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I
can't seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a
potential excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these
strips are used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable
wingtips. I know Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking
or stripping the small screws. What options have worked well for
people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
Scott,
Sorry, at .5X48 they couldn't serve for wing root fairings
RHDudley
Richard Dudley wrote:
>
>Scott,
>Those sound like the wing intersection fairings. They close the gap
>between the wing root ant the fuselage with a rubber gasket against the
>fuselage. Since there are two and they are 48" by 3", that is my best
>guess. I wouldn't cut them until you determine they are for something else.
>
>Regards,
>
>Richard Dudley
>-6A flying
>
>tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the
small screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Kyle, Given they are only 0.5" wide, it seems they are too narrow for an intersection fairing. Also, since they are marked specifically (AS3x020x0.5x48) on the label, I don't think they are scrap. Most of my scrap pieces have been marked "trim bundle" or something to that effect. Thanks for the feedback...sounds like I need to try and get ahold of Vans. Scott--- On Wed 08/17, Kyle Boatright kboatright1(at)comcast.net wrote:From: Kyle Boatright [mailto: kboatright1(at)comcast.net]To: rv-list(at)matronics.comDate: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 18:47:22 -0400Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips-- RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" Are these the strips that are used for the wing/fuse intersection fairing?KB----- Original Message ----- From: To: Subject: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips -- RV-List message posted by: "" All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Farner <sfarner(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | IO-360-A1B6D/A3B6D in a -7A |
While searching through the archives, I saw a few -8s that use this
engine where the dual mag will fit into the stock engine mount. Does
anybody know if there would be any clearance issues on a -7A (i.e. are
the 7 & 8 mounts sufficiently different, and/or will differences in
the nose wheel mount get in the way)?
Thanks,
--
Scott
www.scottfarner.com
RV-7A Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
Scott,
These are the strips to use as nutplate backup on the wingtips. (They
are not the wing to fuselage fairings as others have suggested. Those
parts are .025 thick, wider than 1/2" and longer than 48".) "The List"
on Van's website lists them as
AS3-020X1/2X48 ALUM TIP BACK STRIP $2.05
There should be 4 of them (_.020" thick, 0.5" x 48 "_). I don't
remember what screw size the plans call for, other than to list screws
and nutplates as an option to the 1/8" flush blind rivets.
Cleveland sells a kit of 100 each #4 flush screws (either stainless or
cad plated steel), nutplates, and 200 soft rivets. A #4 flush screw
head is about the size of the 1/8" flush blind rivet head.
After looking at lots of RV wing tips and #4, #6 and #8 screw heads, I
decided on #6 screws. My decision was based on the small (#1) size
Phillips drive required for a #4 screw, compared to a medium (#2)
Phillips drive in the #6 screw. I just thought it would be way too
tedious to install and (very lightly) torque #4 screws ( 40+ of them per
wingtip) compared to #6 screws. The smaller screws are easier to cross
thread and strip threads or heads, compared to larger ones.
You can either order the kit from Cleveland (if you decide to go with #4
screws) or order 100 nutplates and 100 stainless or cad screws from
Van's, Aircraft Spruce, etc., in whatever size you decide. (Order 120
screws if you plan on planting some of them on the shop floor. :-) )
FYI, I did not use the soft (A) rivets either. I used the standard
hardness (AD) rivets. No problems with fiberglass or epoxy cracking
during setting.
Good Luck,
Steve
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com wrote:
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the
small screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
Scott,
The packing list states (1)ea in quantity, then off to the side states 4 per?
I can't remember the use... I will look around the shop.
Call sometime when you have a chance. Hope the jobs going well!!
Darrell
Scott,
These are the strips to use as nutplate backup on the wingtips. (They
are not the wing to fuselage fairings as others have suggested. Those
parts are .025 thick, wider than 1/2" and longer than 48".) "The List"
on Van's website lists them as
AS3-020X1/2X48 ALUM TIP BACK STRIP $2.05
There should be 4 of them (_.020" thick, 0.5" x 48 "_). I don't
remember what screw size the plans call for, other than to list screws
and nutplates as an option to the 1/8" flush blind rivets.
Cleveland sells a kit of 100 each #4 flush screws (either stainless or
cad plated steel), nutplates, and 200 soft rivets. A #4 flush screw
head is about the size of the 1/8" flush blind rivet head.
After looking at lots of RV wing tips and #4, #6 and #8 screw heads, I
decided on #6 screws. My decision was based on the small (#1) size
Phillips drive required for a #4 screw, compared to a medium (#2)
Phillips drive in the #6 screw. I just thought it would be way too
tedious to install and (very lightly) torque #4 screws ( 40+ of them per
wingtip) compared to #6 screws. The smaller screws are easier to cross
thread and strip threads or heads, compared to larger ones.
You can either order the kit from Cleveland (if you decide to go with #4
screws) or order 100 nutplates and 100 stainless or cad screws from
Van's, Aircraft Spruce, etc., in whatever size you decide. (Order 120
screws if you plan on planting some of them on the shop floor. :-) )
FYI, I did not use the soft (A) rivets either. I used the standard
hardness (AD) rivets. No problems with fiberglass or epoxy cracking
during setting.
Good Luck,
Steve
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com wrote:
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the small
screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
>
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep |
Would a t-37 manual be ok or are there a lot of differences due to the prop?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: <sturdy(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
>
> The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
> Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by
> Stu McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow the sequence previously used
> at our other successful formation clinics. The clinic targets RV type
> aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and airspeeds will be
> considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation backgrounds
> from no experience to highly experienced, but all registrants should have
> excellent stick and rudder skills. We generally like a mix of 1/3
> no/little experience, 1/3 medium experience, 1/3 highly experienced.
> Please note we expect participants to be prepared by obtaining and
> studying referenced materials. To read clinic info, to register, as well
> as to make your motel reservations, go here
> http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
> limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be
> held only until
> 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
>
> Stu McCurdy
> Falcon Flight
> FFI
> RV-8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
> Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by Stu
> McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow
> the sequence previously used at our other successful formation clinics.
> The clinic targets RV type aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration
> and airspeeds will be considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all
> formation backgrounds from no experience to highly experienced, but all
> registrants should have excellent stick and rudder skills. SPAN>We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little experience, 1/3 medium
> experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we expect participants to
> be prepared by obtaining and studying referenced materials. To read clinic
> info, to register, as well as to make your motel reservations, go here
> http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
> limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be
> held only until 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
>
>
> Stu McCurdy
>
>
> Falcon Flight
>
>
> FFI
>
>
> RV-8
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
Scott,
Looks like the strips make W-728, page 12 of the plans diagram H-H...
Darrell
wrote:
Kyle, Given they are only 0.5" wide, it seems they are too narrow for an intersection fairing. Also, since they are marked specifically (AS3x020x0.5x48) on the label, I don't think they are scrap. Most of my scrap pieces have been marked "trim bundle" or something to that effect. Thanks for the feedback...sounds like I need to try and get ahold of Vans. Scott--- On Wed 08/17, Kyle Boatright kboatright1(at)comcast.net wrote:From: Kyle Boatright [mailto: kboatright1(at)comcast.net]To: rv-list(at)matronics.comDate: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 18:47:22 -0400Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips-- RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" Are these the strips that are used for the wing/fuse intersection fairing?KB----- Original Message ----- From: To: Subject: RV-List: Wing Metal Strips -- RV-List message posted by: "" All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Shaping the elevator counter weights |
Hi all,
I am getting near the end of elevator assembly (at last). There is a note in
the plans to shape the counter weight to match the retaining skin. I was
scratching my head about the best way to do that. It looks like a belt sander
would be easiest, but I wonder about lead dust (toxicity issue) flying all
around. How have some of you done this?
Also, they say to trim off part of the counterweight to balance the elevator,
but not until you have the elevator painted. should I trim some and do the
final balance after painting or leave it and do it all at once?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: RE: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder stops -7] |
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: RE: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder stops -7
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 17:01:37 +0200
From: Rene Bubberman <rene(at)fabrique3d.nl>
We made an alternative rudder stop, based on Jeff Bordeleon's. Works perfect
and not visible from the outside.
Some pictures at:
http://websites.expercraft.com/PHVII/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=3249
Kind regards,
Ren Bubberman
PH-VII, RV-7 finishing
http://websites.expercraft.com/PHVII/
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com [mailto:RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com]Namens
Bedrock
Verzonden: maandag 15 augustus 2005 3:36
Aan: RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com
Onderwerp: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder stops -7
Yes, my carefully built to the drawing stops didn't work at all so I made
new ones that did. Then I did it again when I built the new rudder. Leave
'em long and trim to fit.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "rv7ator" <rv7ator(at)yahoo.com>
To:
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2005 12:28 PM
Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder stops -7
> After re-checking the dimensions and the mounting position for the
> rudder stop it still allows the rudder to swing too far in both
> directions before contacting the rudder horn. The rudder barely
> touches the elevator in one direction and almost touches it in the
> other. I am supposed to have one and one eight inch clearance instead.
>
> Has any one had the same problem? Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Ed in Birmingham
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
SPONSORED LINKS Plane tickets Charter plane Aviation school
Aviation headset
--
a.. Visit your group "RV7and7A" on the web.
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV7and7A-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
Service.
--
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
http://us.click.yahoo.com/dpRU5A/wUILAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV7and7A-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com wrote:
>
> All, I found some aluminum strips (AS3x020x0.5x48) in my wing kit that I can't
seem to determine what they are used for. I am eyeballing them as a potential
excellent source for wingtip backing. Does anyone know what these strips are
used for? Also, I am looking at ways to attach the removable wingtips. I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the
small screws. What options have worked well for people?Thanks,Scott7A
>
>
>
Piano hinges, easy to install and remove and looks great!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com> |
I have found that the oil in my Mooney appears to be somwhat green in color and, of course,more viscous when cold and more than 25 hours since change Warming up the engine by flying thins the oil and the green color disappears. Ken Dominy--- On Wed 08/17, Rob Prior (rv7) rv7(at)b4.ca wrote:From: Rob Prior (rv7) [mailto: rv7(at)b4.ca]To: rv-list(at)matronics.comDate: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 08:44:49 -0700Subject: Re: RV-List: Green Oil-- RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" This happened on our club aircraft, a wooden homebuilt that runs an O-235. Our club aircraft was frequently flown for 15-20 minute flights, and thenput away. People would come out, do their 5 circuits (short grass strip,each circuit can be pretty quick) to stay current, put the plane away, andgo home. One day we changed the oil and while it's draining noticed thatit was all a uniform milky colour... It might have had a green tinge to it,but my recollection was that it was more of a greyish off-white
colour.We concluded that the short runs of the engine weren't enough to get theoil
up to temperature for long enough to boil off any moisture that hadaccumulated
in the down time between flights, and the extra moisture in theoil caused
it to turn a milky colour. Two AME's that were asked about itagreed that was
the likely cause. They also agreed that in order to burnoff the impurities on
each flight, the airplane needed to be flown for atleast half an hour.Since then,
we instituted a minimum half-hour billing per flight, so allflights less than
half an hour are billed for 0.5 hour anyway. That way,we hope people will
have an incentive to fly it for at least that long. Since this policy, we haven't
seen the milky oil again.-RobOn 7:36:55 2005-08-17 Rick Galati wrote: -- RV-List
message posted by: Rick Galati Yesterday, I was asked my opinion about
green oil. The oil was being drained from an O-320 equipped spam can and the
long time AP mechanic
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
Those strips are for just what you surmised. Use them to back up nut plates
on the fiberglass parts that you intend to attach with screws.
FWIW I used #6 screws and nutplates for my wingtips. They had to be
removable for access to the strobe power packs. Works fine and looks OK to me.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 118 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi all,
There is an instruction near the end of the elevator prep that says "bevel E
713 locally where E-713 overlaps the spar and rib flanges to provide a smooth
transition between the counterbalance skin and the E-701 elevator skin." What
does this mean?
I am trying to figure out if I should thin E 713 or what. What have you all
done?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep |
The T-34 Formation Flight Manual is THE only manual that will do. It is the
STANDARD adopted by all FAA Approved Formation flight agencies.
I never saw a T-37 formation fight manual. Is there such a thing?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,749 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 20:04:26 -0500
Would a t-37 manual be ok or are there a lot of differences due to the prop?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: <sturdy(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
>
> The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
> Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by
> Stu McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow the sequence previously used
> at our other successful formation clinics. The clinic targets RV type
> aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and airspeeds will be
> considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation backgrounds
> from no experience to highly experienced, but all registrants should have
> excellent stick and rudder skills. We generally like a mix of 1/3
> no/little experience, 1/3 medium experience, 1/3 highly experienced.
> Please note we expect participants to be prepared by obtaining and
> studying referenced materials. To read clinic info, to register, as well
> as to make your motel reservations, go here
> http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
> limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be
> held only until
> 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
>
> Stu McCurdy
> Falcon Flight
> FFI
> RV-8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
> Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by
Stu
> McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow
> the sequence previously used at our other successful formation clinics.
> The clinic targets RV type aircraft, but aircraft of similar
configuration
> and airspeeds will be considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all
> formation backgrounds from no experience to highly experienced, but all
> registrants should have excellent stick and rudder skills. SPAN>We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little experience, 1/3 medium
> experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we expect participants to
> be prepared by obtaining and studying referenced materials. To read
clinic
> info, to register, as well as to make your motel reservations, go here
> http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
> limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be
> held only until 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
>
>
> Stu McCurdy
>
>
> Falcon Flight
>
>
> FFI
>
>
> RV-8
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
RV7and7A(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | First Flight Video |
Sorry to cross post this but...
First Flight Video
I though you might get a kick out of this video. If anything,
mayby it will spur those of you still building to spend more
time with your project.
A HUGE thanks goes out to Dan C., Dave K., David R. and my
Mom and Dad for helping me make this one of the most memorable
moments of my life. And a big Thank You to all of you who made
this possible. Of course I would list all of you but then you
would have to scroll the page down about 32 times. Thanks so much
for your invaluable insight and experience.
I hope to meet up with you current flyers at a future flying
event, once my 40 hrs. are in the bag.
Scroll down to the bottom of the page for the link to the video.
Again, if you have dial up, you're toast.
http://www.rv7-a.com/phase_1.htm#First%20Flight%20Video
or go here so see a few other videos of the 447RV progress.
http://www.rv7-a.com/videos.htm
And if any of you know what the name/author of the sound
tracks are, you win the grand prize. Send me an email with
your guess... I'm sure some of you movie fanatics will guess
right.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
FLYING, HA!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Shaping the elevator counter weights |
I used a big honkin' file to shape it - worked fine. I did
wear a respirator, but I'm a paranoid kind of guy.
I asked Van's about balancing the elevators, and they
recommended just putting the counterweights on, and not
worrying about balancing it. A bit to heavy is apparently
not a problem.
Best regards,
Mickey
MLWynn(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am getting near the end of elevator assembly (at last). There is a note in
> the plans to shape the counter weight to match the retaining skin. I was
> scratching my head about the best way to do that. It looks like a belt sander
> would be easiest, but I wonder about lead dust (toxicity issue) flying all
> around. How have some of you done this?
>
> Also, they say to trim off part of the counterweight to balance the elevator,
> but not until you have the elevator painted. should I trim some and do the
> final balance after painting or leave it and do it all at once?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV-8, Empennage
> San Ramon, California
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Shaping the elevator counter weights |
Hi Mike
Trim for skin now and rest is optional, can wait until tail feathers are
test fitted to fuselage.
Use a coarse or bastard file to make lead weight fit wrap around skin.
Just set up my 7A elevators on fuselage last week, may be a bit
different than your 8 but here is what I did.
Elevators are balanced individually. Right side lead weight needs to be
reduced as per blue print, I cut it with a hacksaw and trimmed with a
coarse file (it's easier to file off excess weight than add it back).
Caution, do not trim lead weight on Left side, weight may need to be
added to compensate for electric trim. I used a AN3 bolt and 4 large
washers installed in tooling hole to add weight.
Rough balance elevators (trim installed) so trailing edge will deflect
up about 10 - 15 degrees, I am told that after painting elevator this
will be close to proper in trail (neutral) balance point. Friction in
elevator bearings will prevent elevators from moving to proper balance
point so you must vibrate HS or fuselage (bang with fist) until elevator
finds its balance point.
The least possible friction in elevator system will make for a better
flying aircraft.
Good luck,
George in Langley BC
>
>Hi all,
>
>I am getting near the end of elevator assembly (at last). There is a note in
>the plans to shape the counter weight to match the retaining skin. I was
>scratching my head about the best way to do that. It looks like a belt sander
>would be easiest, but I wonder about lead dust (toxicity issue) flying all
>around. How have some of you done this?
>
>Also, they say to trim off part of the counterweight to balance the elevator,
>but not until you have the elevator painted. should I trim some and do the
>final balance after painting or leave it and do it all at once?
>
>Regards,
>
>Michael Wynn
>RV-8, Empennage
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shaping the elevator counter weights |
On 18 Aug 2005, at 02:42, Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
> I asked Van's about balancing the elevators, and they
> recommended just putting the counterweights on, and not
> worrying about balancing it. A bit to heavy is apparently
> not a problem.
>
Ideally, the elevators would be perfectly balanced. If the
counterweights are too heavy, the elevator will tend to move towards
the nose up position. The amount of nose up force created by the too
heavy counterweight will vary linearly with the amount of g you
pull. In other words, having the nose heavy will reduce the amount
of stick force required to pull g. RVs already have quite light
stick forces at aft CG. I would not want to further reduce the stick
force per g.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Shaping the elevator counter weights |
>>I asked Van's about balancing the elevators, and they
>>recommended just putting the counterweights on, and not
>>worrying about balancing it. A bit to heavy is apparently
>>not a problem.
>>
> Ideally, the elevators would be perfectly balanced. If the
> counterweights are too heavy, the elevator will tend to move towards
> the nose up position. The amount of nose up force created by the too
> heavy counterweight will vary linearly with the amount of g you
> pull. In other words, having the nose heavy will reduce the amount
> of stick force required to pull g. RVs already have quite light
> stick forces at aft CG. I would not want to further reduce the stick
> force per g.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
I never considered the effect of G on the elevator balance. I'll
balance them before I fly. Thanks a lot for sharing your expertise,
Kevin!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Video |
Congrats Walter.
I have a FI engine too which I haven't started yet (close though!) and am wondering
if hindsight says you may have had some symptom on the ground prior to takeoff
of the FOD in the #4 fuel injector and maybe adrenaline kept you from noticing
on that first flight.
Or what could one do differently than what you did leading up to first TO to try
to shake this out prior to TO. Did you do any full throttle runups, high speed
taxis, etc?
Thanks and let us know how all that GRT equipment is working out!
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Sorry to cross post this but...
>
> First Flight Video
>
> I though you might get a kick out of this video. If anything,
> mayby it will spur those of you still building to spend more
> time with your project.
>
> A HUGE thanks goes out to Dan C., Dave K., David R. and my
> Mom and Dad for helping me make this one of the most memorable
> moments of my life. And a big Thank You to all of you who made
> this possible. Of course I would list all of you but then you
> would have to scroll the page down about 32 times. Thanks so much
> for your invaluable insight and experience.
>
> I hope to meet up with you current flyers at a future flying
> event, once my 40 hrs. are in the bag.
>
> Scroll down to the bottom of the page for the link to the video.
> Again, if you have dial up, you're toast.
>
> http://www.rv7-a.com/phase_1.htm#First%20Flight%20Video
>
> or go here so see a few other videos of the 447RV progress.
>
> http://www.rv7-a.com/videos.htm
>
> And if any of you know what the name/author of the sound
> tracks are, you win the grand prize. Send me an email with
> your guess... I'm sure some of you movie fanatics will guess
> right.
>
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
> FLYING, HA!
>
>
>
>
>
>
Congrats Walter.
I have a FI engine too which I haven't started yet (close though!) and am wondering
if hindsight says you may have had some symptom on the ground prior to takeoff
of the FOD in the #4 fuel injector and maybe adrenaline kept you from noticing
on that first flight.
Or what could one do differently than what you did leading up to first TOto try
to shake this out prior to TO. Did you do any full throttle runups, high speed
taxis, etc?
Thanks and let us know how all that GRT equipment is working out!
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu
Sorry to cross post this but...
First Flight Video
I though you might get a kick out of this video. If anything,
mayby it will spur those of you still building to spend more
time with your project.
A HUGE thanks goes out to Dan C., Dave K., David R. and my
Mom and Dad for helping me make this one of the most memorable
moments of my life. And a big Thank You to all of you who made
this possible. Of course I would list all of you but then you
would have to scroll the page down about 32 times. Thanks so much
for your invaluable insight and experience.
I hope to meet up with you current flyers at a future flying
event, once my 40 hrs. are in the bag.
Scroll down to the bottom of the page for the link to the video.
Again, if you have dial up, you're toast.
http://www.rv7-a.com/phase_1.htm#First%20Flight%20Video
or go here so see a few other videos of the 447RV progress.
http://www.rv7-a.com/videos.htm
And if any of you know what the name/author of the sound
tracks are, you win the grand prize. Send me an email with
your guess... I'm sure some of you movie fanatics will guess
right.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
FLYING, HA!
hive Search Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Metal Strips |
I know
Cleveland makes a kit, but I thought people were breaking or stripping the
small screws.
I just finished using the Cleveland kit to attach my wingtips. All the 4-40 nutplates
worked smoothly & using the supplied phillips head screwdriver bit, none
of the heads were stripped. All-in-all, a very positive experience.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360-A1B6D/A3B6D in a -7A |
Scott
I have installed the IO-360-A3B6D on my 7a and had no clearance issues. I
did modify to have one reg mag and the other Lightspeed. Plane heading to
the paint shop in one week then hope to fly by Oct.
Wayne
-7a in S.Alberta
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Cary" <williamc(at)RV9Builder.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight Video |
That was ONE GREAT video. Thank you for sharing that with us. Makes me
want to skip work and go pound some more rivets.
BILL
RV-9A (fuselage)
Snip:
First Flight Video
I though you might get a kick out of this video. If anything,
mayby it will spur those of you still building to spend more
time with your project.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Video |
On 08/18 12:02, lucky wrote:
> I have a FI engine too which I haven't started yet (close though!) and am wondering
if hindsight says you may have had some symptom on the ground prior to
takeoff of the FOD in the #4 fuel injector and maybe adrenaline kept you from
noticing on that first flight.
Engine was a hard starter but other than that I didn't notice anything
in particular. The engine roughness began around 300 to 400 feet. I
think the booger came loose and clogged the injector at that point.
I would certainly advise a full power ground runup before first flight.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brad Oliver <brad(at)rv7factory.com> |
| Subject: | Shaping the elevator counter weights |
Hey Michael,
The timing of your posts is just perfect! I read all the responses with
great interest as I am starting to think about this too. ;-)
My concern is... if I trim the weight now, how is is possible to make
adjustments after it has been enclosed by the counterbalance skin and
fiberglass tip? IIRC (plans not in front of me), I guess you still
have access to the interior end of the weight and could make
adjustments there, at least on the 7, but probably not much.
George, great advice, thanks! I guess the potential issue I could see
with your method would be how to get the bolt through the ribs if you
have already installed the tip and painted. Hmmmm.
What if... and I am just thinking out loud here... before installing the
tip, you install a nutplate on the forward tooling hole (on the ribs)?
This would give you a place to bolt additional weight if needed down
the road (after paint). My only concern there would be the potential
that the screw would back out even though it is in a nutplate, and the
weight would come loose, but I guess a good amount of loctite might
mitigate the chances of that happening?
Thoughts?
Brad
RV-7 Livermore, CA
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Shaping the elevator counter weights
> From: GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca>
> Date: Wed, August 17, 2005 11:56 pm
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Hi Mike
>
> Trim for skin now and rest is optional, can wait until tail feathers are
> test fitted to fuselage.
> Use a coarse or bastard file to make lead weight fit wrap around skin.
>
> Just set up my 7A elevators on fuselage last week, may be a bit
> different than your 8 but here is what I did.
> Elevators are balanced individually. Right side lead weight needs to be
> reduced as per blue print, I cut it with a hacksaw and trimmed with a
> coarse file (it's easier to file off excess weight than add it back).
> Caution, do not trim lead weight on Left side, weight may need to be
> added to compensate for electric trim. I used a AN3 bolt and 4 large
> washers installed in tooling hole to add weight.
>
> Rough balance elevators (trim installed) so trailing edge will deflect
> up about 10 - 15 degrees, I am told that after painting elevator this
> will be close to proper in trail (neutral) balance point. Friction in
> elevator bearings will prevent elevators from moving to proper balance
> point so you must vibrate HS or fuselage (bang with fist) until elevator
> finds its balance point.
>
> The least possible friction in elevator system will make for a better
> flying aircraft.
>
> Good luck,
>
> George in Langley BC
>
> >
> >Hi all,
> >
> >I am getting near the end of elevator assembly (at last). There is a note in
> >the plans to shape the counter weight to match the retaining skin. I was
> >scratching my head about the best way to do that. It looks like a belt sander
> >would be easiest, but I wonder about lead dust (toxicity issue) flying all
> >around. How have some of you done this?
> >
> >Also, they say to trim off part of the counterweight to balance the elevator,
> >but not until you have the elevator painted. should I trim some and do the
> >final balance after painting or leave it and do it all at once?
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Michael Wynn
> >RV-8, Empennage
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep |
I dont remember what manual I used 16 years ago but I assume it was part of
the T-37 "dash one" (operating manual). I dont have a good memory though, I
think.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
>
> The T-34 Formation Flight Manual is THE only manual that will do. It is
> the
> STANDARD adopted by all FAA Approved Formation flight agencies.
>
> I never saw a T-37 formation fight manual. Is there such a thing?
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,749 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
> Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 20:04:26 -0500
>
>
>
> Would a t-37 manual be ok or are there a lot of differences due to the
> prop?
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 235 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <sturdy(at)att.net>
> To: "RV-List"
> Subject: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
>
>
> >
> > The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
> > Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted
> > by
> > Stu McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow the sequence previously
> > used
> > at our other successful formation clinics. The clinic targets RV type
> > aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and airspeeds will be
> > considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation backgrounds
> > from no experience to highly experienced, but all registrants should
> > have
> > excellent stick and rudder skills. We generally like a mix of 1/3
> > no/little experience, 1/3 medium experience, 1/3 highly experienced.
> > Please note we expect participants to be prepared by obtaining and
> > studying referenced materials. To read clinic info, to register, as
> > well
> > as to make your motel reservations, go here
> > http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
> > limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be
> > held only until
> > 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
> >
> > Stu McCurdy
> > Falcon Flight
> > FFI
> > RV-8
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
> > Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by
> Stu
> > McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will
> > follow
> > the sequence previously used at our other successful formation clinics.
> > The clinic targets RV type aircraft, but aircraft of similar
> configuration
> > and airspeeds will be considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all
> > formation backgrounds from no experience to highly experienced, but all
> > registrants should have excellent stick and rudder skills. > SPAN>We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little experience, 1/3 medium
> > experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we expect participants
> > to
> > be prepared by obtaining and studying referenced materials. To read
> clinic
> > info, to register, as well as to make your motel reservations, go here
> > http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
> > limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be
> > held only until 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
> >
> >
> > Stu McCurdy
> >
> >
> > Falcon Flight
> >
> >
> > FFI
> >
> >
> > RV-8
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Visit to Airflow Performance |
If you guys are finished discussing canopies and how parts fit or don't, I
thought I would pass on some info from my trip yesterday to Air Flow
Performance.
When I got there I met with Don Rivera the owner. Great guy, knows what he
is talking about. Your opinion or philosophy may differ, but he won't tell
you that you are wrong, I like that.
AFP makes experimental fuel injection systems. Unfortunately I have a
Bendix flow divider, fuel servo and fuel nozzles on my RV. Good news all
the rest on my RV is AFP products.
The reason I visited was to discuss or buy new fuel injector nozzles. I
have the Bendix ones that are causing some significant EGT spreads. I have
been trying to get them all within 50 degrees of each other. I have
cleaned them all and still have one cylinder temp about 125 degrees
off. What I learned is that AFP makes and sells their own nozzles that are
suppose to work better than the Bendix ones. We came up with a strategy on
how to even out the EGT temps. Basically, he puts in different size
nozzles to even out the temps. A neat process for those with an
engineering affliction. For non engineers he gets all the EGTs as close a
possible with the lowest fuel flow. That can save up to 1-2 GPH in cruise
with the proper leaning. His comment about the process is you can get
GAMI performance for about a third of the price. Anyway, I learned a lot
about fuel injection, leaning and how my engine operates. Great discussion.
For those who want Fuel Injection or the ability to fly upside down, I
highly recommend AirFlow Performance.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Visit to Airflow Performance |
>
> The reason I visited was to discuss or buy new fuel injector
> nozzles. I have the Bendix ones that are causing some
> significant EGT spreads. I have been trying to get them all
> within 50 degrees of each other. I have cleaned them all and
> still have one cylinder temp about 125 degrees off. What I
> learned is that AFP makes and sells their own nozzles that
> are suppose to work better than the Bendix ones. We came up
> with a strategy on how to even out the EGT temps. Basically,
> he puts in different size nozzles to even out the temps. A
> neat process for those with an engineering affliction. For
> non engineers he gets all the EGTs as close a possible with
> the lowest fuel flow. That can save up to 1-2 GPH in cruise
> with the proper leaning. His comment about the process is
> you can get GAMI performance for about a third of the price.
> Anyway, I learned a lot about fuel injection, leaning and
> how my engine operates. Great discussion.
>
> For those who want Fuel Injection or the ability to fly
> upside down, I highly recommend AirFlow Performance.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
Bob, while I haven't visited AFP, I have spent time on the phone with Don
and agree with your positive assessment of him.
I'm sure you know this, but don't try to even out EGT's. What you want to
make uniform is when each cylinder hits its peak as compared to overall fuel
flow. Assuming you have a fuel flow measurement device in your plane (a
must for this exercise), start around a gallon or so rich of where you think
peak is. Take all four egt measurements, the lean it about a tenth of a
gph. Give it a minute or so and take the temperatures. Do this until all
four cylinders are at least 50F lean of peak, unless it gets really rough.
The output of this is to look at how far apart, in terms of overall gph, the
individual cylinders peak egt is. How one egt compares to another is mostly
irrelevant in this exercise. Now you have data to go to Don with to get
different injectors. He will most likely want you to simply start with a
set of his nozzles. It is not difficult to get this spread within about .1
to .3 gph with only a couple tries.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 654 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Airflow Performance / EGT Temps |
I just helped my neighbor go through the whole GAMI injector process in his
Bonanza.
You really are not looking at EGT spreads, you need to be looking at when
each EGT peaks. In a perfect world you want all the cylinders to peak at the
same time. How the probes are installed in the pipes and the different shape
of the pipes can cause a significant difference in EGT temps.
Another good test that you can do is to swap the injectors on your coldest
and hottest cylinder. If the injector flows are different then it should change
cylinders.
Rob Hickman
N401RH RV-4 IO-360
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Visit to Airflow Performance |
Bob,
Getting EGTs to be the same value across the board is not the goal -- EGT
value is almost irrelevant, since it's just a relative indication of where
the cylinder is in its own "curve."
The goal, if you're trying to "balance" your injectors, is to get all
cylinders to reach *peak* EGT (wherever that may happen to be) at the same
fuel flow (+/- 0.1gph). When all cylinders are at the same point in the
curve, that's condition you try to achieve to make LOP operation to be safe
and smooth.
This is straight from Don at AFP.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Visit to Airflow Performance
>
> If you guys are finished discussing canopies and how parts fit or don't, I
> thought I would pass on some info from my trip yesterday to Air Flow
> Performance.
>
> When I got there I met with Don Rivera the owner. Great guy, knows what
> he
> is talking about. Your opinion or philosophy may differ, but he won't
> tell
> you that you are wrong, I like that.
>
> AFP makes experimental fuel injection systems. Unfortunately I have a
> Bendix flow divider, fuel servo and fuel nozzles on my RV. Good news all
> the rest on my RV is AFP products.
>
> The reason I visited was to discuss or buy new fuel injector nozzles. I
> have the Bendix ones that are causing some significant EGT spreads. I
> have
> been trying to get them all within 50 degrees of each other. I have
> cleaned them all and still have one cylinder temp about 125 degrees
> off. What I learned is that AFP makes and sells their own nozzles that
> are
> suppose to work better than the Bendix ones. We came up with a strategy
> on
> how to even out the EGT temps. Basically, he puts in different size
> nozzles to even out the temps. A neat process for those with an
> engineering affliction. For non engineers he gets all the EGTs as close a
> possible with the lowest fuel flow. That can save up to 1-2 GPH in cruise
> with the proper leaning. His comment about the process is you can get
> GAMI performance for about a third of the price. Anyway, I learned a lot
> about fuel injection, leaning and how my engine operates. Great
> discussion.
>
> For those who want Fuel Injection or the ability to fly upside down, I
> highly recommend AirFlow Performance.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Visit to Airflow Performance |
Since the shop that built my engine messed up and installed someone
else's fuel injetion system on my engine I got the rare opprotunity to
see my engine run on two different fuel injection systems on the same
day. The first was the Bendix. Then they learned of their mistake and
put on my AFP, and I made them run it again. I don't have any hard data
but I can tell you that the engine sounded a LOT smoother with the AFP.
I've also had good dealings with them. I'd buy another one in half a
heartbeat.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Bob wrote:
>
>If you guys are finished discussing canopies and how parts fit or don't, I
>thought I would pass on some info from my trip yesterday to Air Flow
>Performance.
>
>When I got there I met with Don Rivera the owner. Great guy, knows what he
>is talking about. Your opinion or philosophy may differ, but he won't tell
>you that you are wrong, I like that.
>
>AFP makes experimental fuel injection systems. Unfortunately I have a
>Bendix flow divider, fuel servo and fuel nozzles on my RV. Good news all
>the rest on my RV is AFP products.
>
>The reason I visited was to discuss or buy new fuel injector nozzles. I
>have the Bendix ones that are causing some significant EGT spreads. I have
>been trying to get them all within 50 degrees of each other. I have
>cleaned them all and still have one cylinder temp about 125 degrees
>off. What I learned is that AFP makes and sells their own nozzles that are
>suppose to work better than the Bendix ones. We came up with a strategy on
>how to even out the EGT temps. Basically, he puts in different size
>nozzles to even out the temps. A neat process for those with an
>engineering affliction. For non engineers he gets all the EGTs as close a
>possible with the lowest fuel flow. That can save up to 1-2 GPH in cruise
>with the proper leaning. His comment about the process is you can get
>GAMI performance for about a third of the price. Anyway, I learned a lot
>about fuel injection, leaning and how my engine operates. Great discussion.
>
>For those who want Fuel Injection or the ability to fly upside down, I
>highly recommend AirFlow Performance.
>
>Bob
>RV6 NightFighter
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Visit to Airflow Performance |
What's the money for the system?
If you guys are finished discussing canopies and how parts fit or don't, I
thought I would pass on some info from my trip yesterday to Air Flow
Performance.
When I got there I met with Don Rivera the owner. Great guy, knows what he
is talking about. Your opinion or philosophy may differ, but he won't tell
you that you are wrong, I like that.
AFP makes experimental fuel injection systems. Unfortunately I have a
Bendix flow divider, fuel servo and fuel nozzles on my RV. Good news all
the rest on my RV is AFP products.
The reason I visited was to discuss or buy new fuel injector nozzles. I
have the Bendix ones that are causing some significant EGT spreads. I have
been trying to get them all within 50 degrees of each other. I have
cleaned them all and still have one cylinder temp about 125 degrees
off. What I learned is that AFP makes and sells their own nozzles that are
suppose to work better than the Bendix ones. We came up with a strategy on
how to even out the EGT temps. Basically, he puts in different size
nozzles to even out the temps. A neat process for those with an
engineering affliction. For non engineers he gets all the EGTs as close a
possible with the lowest fuel flow. That can save up to 1-2 GPH in cruise
with the proper leaning. His comment about the process is you can get
GAMI performance for about a third of the price. Anyway, I learned a lot
about fuel injection, leaning and how my engine operates. Great discussion.
For those who want Fuel Injection or the ability to fly upside down, I
highly recommend AirFlow Performance.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Large static port error |
My recently completed RV9A altimeters consistently read low by 500' at
5000', when compared to a GPS altitude. All altimeters agree with the
GPS on the ground, to 50' or so. The altimeters include a Dynon D10A,
Van's Falcon analogue gauge, and an ACK encoder as read by Flight
Following. I used the Cleaveland static air ports which came out very
close to being flush with the surface. I used Van's print-recommended
locations for the ports. Testing shows no leakage in either the pitot or
static air systems. After reading the Matronics archives, I cut the
heads off the large-head pop rivets recommended by Van's for these
ports and glued them over the Cleaveland ports. This reduced the error
by half to 250'. It also eliminated a 10 mph error in the Dynon ASI.
(The pitot/static check by a testing station showed the Dynon to be very
accurate in both altitude and speed) I then cut the 90 mil thick-heads
off AN470AD6- rivets and glued them on instead, but the error remained
the same. A friend then machined 1/2" diameter disks some 60 mils thick
and I carefully epoxied those on but the error remained 250' low at
5000'. When I open the static air line into the cockpit, the error
decreases by half, and closing the air vents decreases the error by
another half, to 60' feet low. I am wondering if anyone else has seen
this much error and if /how they solved the problem. I would love having
accurate instruments.
Leland in Pleasanton, California
N137LC
21.6 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep |
I read that planes with vernier throttles are not allowed.
Is that correct?
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shaping the elevator counter weights |
If you balance it before painting, you'll have to remove weight to
re-balance it after paint since the paint will make it "aft" heavy.
So, all you have to do is to drill out some lead.
Dave B
-6 So Cal
Brad Oliver wrote:
>...This would give you a place to bolt additional weight if needed down
>the road (after paint).
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Large static port error |
On 18 Aug 2005, at 19:18, Leland wrote:
>
> My recently completed RV9A altimeters consistently read low by 500' at
> 5000', when compared to a GPS altitude. All altimeters agree with the
> GPS on the ground, to 50' or so. The altimeters include a Dynon D10A,
> Van's Falcon analogue gauge, and an ACK encoder as read by Flight
> Following. I used the Cleaveland static air ports which came out very
> close to being flush with the surface. I used Van's print-recommended
> locations for the ports. Testing shows no leakage in either the
> pitot or
> static air systems. After reading the Matronics archives, I cut the
> heads off the large-head pop rivets recommended by Van's for these
> ports and glued them over the Cleaveland ports. This reduced the error
> by half to 250'. It also eliminated a 10 mph error in the Dynon ASI.
> (The pitot/static check by a testing station showed the Dynon to be
> very
> accurate in both altitude and speed) I then cut the 90 mil thick-heads
> off AN470AD6- rivets and glued them on instead, but the error remained
> the same. A friend then machined 1/2" diameter disks some 60 mils
> thick
> and I carefully epoxied those on but the error remained 250' low at
> 5000'. When I open the static air line into the cockpit, the error
> decreases by half, and closing the air vents decreases the error by
> another half, to 60' feet low. I am wondering if anyone else has seen
> this much error and if /how they solved the problem. I would love
> having
> accurate instruments.
> Leland in Pleasanton, California
Time out.
You need to understand that there is a big difference between GPS
altitude and barometric altitude. They are not the same thing. The
air temperature between the ground and your altitude affects the air
pressure at altitude, which is what the barometric altimeter is
measuring. The air pressure is higher at low altitude because of the
weight of the air above compressing the lower air. Warm air isn't as
dense as cold air, so the variation of pressure with altitude isn't
as pronounced in warmer temperatures. This means that if you stood
on top of the same mountain in the winter as you did in the summer,
and you got an altimeter setting from an airport in the valley, the
altimeter would read lower in the summer than it would in the winter
- the higher air pressure in the warm air equates to a lower
barometric altitude.
The barometric altitude error due to non-standard temperature is
about 4 ft per degree C per 1,000 ft. So, if the temperature is 10
deg C warmer than standard, the error at 5,000 ft would be about 4 x
10 x 5 = 200 ft. The barometric altimeter will read too low. This
can be a real big deal if you are on a cold day in the winter, doing
an instrument approach in an area with mountains. Your altimeter
could be reading several hundred feet too high when you go by some of
the mountains. Note: the altitude you use in the above formula is
the difference in altitude between your location and where the
altimeter setting came from. If you are on the ground at the airport
where the altimeter setting came from, the barometric altimeter
should read the field elevation, even in non-standard temperatures -
the altimeter setting is specifically chosen to make the altimeter
read correctly on the ground.
There are also small (about 50 ft) variations between what the GPS
constellation considers to be sea level, and that the ocean considers
to be sea level. And, the GPS is not as accurate in the vertical as
it is in the horizontal.
Bottom line - if you want to check the accuracy of your static system
please don't compare it to GPS altitude. Use the following method:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/rvlinks/ssec.html
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep |
Jeff,
The hand signals in the T-34 manual are alot like the ones we used in the
military but there are some differences. If you are going you will need to
find a T-34 manual to study a bit.
Tom - using Kabongs computer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
>
>
> I dont remember what manual I used 16 years ago but I assume it was part
> of
> the T-37 "dash one" (operating manual). I dont have a good memory though,
> I
> think.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 235 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
>
>
>>
>> The T-34 Formation Flight Manual is THE only manual that will do. It is
>> the
>> STANDARD adopted by all FAA Approved Formation flight agencies.
>>
>> I never saw a T-37 formation fight manual. Is there such a thing?
>>
>> Gary A. Sobek
>> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>> 1,749 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>>
>>
>> ----Original Message Follows----
>> From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
>> Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 20:04:26 -0500
>>
>>
>>
>> Would a t-37 manual be ok or are there a lot of differences due to the
>> prop?
>>
>> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>> RV-6A, N915JD
>> 235 hours
>> Chicago/Louisville
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <sturdy(at)att.net>
>> To: "RV-List"
>> Subject: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
>>
>>
>> >
>> > The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at
>> > Abilene
>> > Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted
>> > by
>> > Stu McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow the sequence previously
>> > used
>> > at our other successful formation clinics. The clinic targets RV type
>> > aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and airspeeds will be
>> > considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation backgrounds
>> > from no experience to highly experienced, but all registrants should
>> > have
>> > excellent stick and rudder skills. We generally like a mix of 1/3
>> > no/little experience, 1/3 medium experience, 1/3 highly experienced.
>> > Please note we expect participants to be prepared by obtaining and
>> > studying referenced materials. To read clinic info, to register, as
>> > well
>> > as to make your motel reservations, go here
>> > http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We
>> > will
>> > limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be
>> > held only until
>> > 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
>> >
>> > Stu McCurdy
>> > Falcon Flight
>> > FFI
>> > RV-8
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at
>> > Abilene
>> > Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by
>> Stu
>> > McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will
>> > follow
>> > the sequence previously used at our other successful formation clinics.
>> > The clinic targets RV type aircraft, but aircraft of similar
>> configuration
>> > and airspeeds will be considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all
>> > formation backgrounds from no experience to highly experienced, but all
>> > registrants should have excellent stick and rudder skills. > > SPAN>We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little experience, 1/3 medium
>> > experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we expect participants
>> > to
>> > be prepared by obtaining and studying referenced materials. To read
>> clinic
>> > info, to register, as well as to make your motel reservations, go here
>> > http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
>> > limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be
>> > held only until 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
>> >
>> >
>> > Stu McCurdy
>> >
>> >
>> > Falcon Flight
>> >
>> >
>> > FFI
>> >
>> >
>> > RV-8
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Large static port error |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Large static port error
>
> On 18 Aug 2005, at 19:18, Leland wrote:
>
>>
>
> Time out.
>
> You need to understand that there is a big difference between GPS
> altitude and barometric altitude.
AND it is a whole lot cheaper and easier to just install the Van's static
port pop rivets, than it is to try to simulate it with fancy machined parts
later.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bradley Oliver" <brad(at)rv7factory.com> |
| Subject: | Shaping the elevator counter weights |
Dave,
Sorry, it has been a long day, so maybe I am not thinking correctly... but
if it is aft heavy after painting, as I would expect it to be, wouldn't you
need to add weight (forward of the hinge point) to rebalance?
~Brad
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of D.Bristol
Subject: Re: RV-List: Shaping the elevator counter weights
If you balance it before painting, you'll have to remove weight to
re-balance it after paint since the paint will make it "aft" heavy.
So, all you have to do is to drill out some lead.
Dave B
-6 So Cal
Brad Oliver wrote:
>...This would give you a place to bolt additional weight if needed down
>the road (after paint).
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shaping the elevator counter weights |
I guess that George was the only one that read this, thanks for the
heads up on my boo-boo!
What I wanted to say is that you should leave some extra weight, then
after you paint you can just drill some out.
Then again, maybe that's why I do such strange loops!
Dave
-6 So Cal
D.Bristol wrote:
>
>If you balance it before painting, you'll have to remove weight to
>re-balance it after paint since the paint will make it "aft" heavy.
>So, all you have to do is to drill out some lead.
>
>Dave B
>-6 So Cal
>
>Brad Oliver wrote:
>
>
>
>>...This would give you a place to bolt additional weight if needed down
>>the road (after paint).
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shaping the elevator counter weights |
Not sure exactly what Dave meant, but the idea is to leave extra weight
there (unbalanced forward) so even after paint you still have to remove
some to balance the elevator.
Dick Tasker
Bradley Oliver wrote:
>
>Dave,
>
>Sorry, it has been a long day, so maybe I am not thinking correctly... but
>if it is aft heavy after painting, as I would expect it to be, wouldn't you
>need to add weight (forward of the hinge point) to rebalance?
>
>~Brad
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of D.Bristol
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Shaping the elevator counter weights
>
>
>If you balance it before painting, you'll have to remove weight to
>re-balance it after paint since the paint will make it "aft" heavy.
>So, all you have to do is to drill out some lead.
>
>Dave B
>-6 So Cal
>
----
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
----
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Visit to Airflow Performance |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
A few weeks ago, after posting a request for a recommendation on getting injectors
in an IO-540 balanced on the Reflector (Velocity website). Based on two or
three recommendations, I contacted Air Flow Performance, Spartanburg, SC (SPA).
I related to Don that I had done the GAMI routine, but after a year, the
lowest spread achieved was 1.5 gph. One of the best, if still not great, settings
after multiple GAMI injectors change outs was to run #3 and #6 LOP and the
other four ROP. Not ideal but it kind of worked. When pressed about why the
tuned injectors weren't tuned after innumerable lean test runs and injector
change outs, GAMI said "huh, that's odd" but never solved the problem.
After a couple missed appointments due to schedule and weather, we hooked up on
Saturday (yes, they volunteered to come in on Saturday to accommodate my schedule).
From the baseline flight of 1.5 gph spread, the next set of restrictors
dropped it to 1.2, then 0.8, then less than 0.4--done!
In 4-5 hours, I'd resolved the issue that I'd been piddling with for over a year.
Now, in all fairness to GAMI, they were very patient and persistent. Over
the year, they sent a LOT of injectors. Of course, each required cowl removal,
injector change out, then a new set of lean tests, just to find out they really
didn't change anything.
After the second flight at Airflow, a 5 minute explanation finally made sense of
why the GAMI injector change outs never changed anything. It turns out the
Flow Divider opening pressure is around 1.5 PSI. Since our test points were around
12 GPH that resulted in a nozzle back pressure of around 1.7 PSI. What
was happening was that even though a larger nozzle was being installed in cylinder
#6 the Flow Divider was influencing the division of flow to the nozzles.
The solution was counter intuitive, but eminently sensible when understood.
To make #6 rich, the other cylinders were 'cinched down' with smaller restrictors,
which caused the nozzle back pressure to increase driving the Flow Divider
more open so that it would not influence the division of flow to the nozzles.
With more fuel being pushed to #6 and they dialed right in.
Now, I assume GAMI is probably that smart also, but the advantages of hands-on
problem analysis and immediate retesting are inestimable, something that GAMI,
due to geography couldn't do.
More important than the 0.5-0.8 gph fuel savings was the smoothness factor. The
canard, which is an excellent tell-tale for vibration, was dead calm throughout
the ROP area and displayed only a small vibration when I went into the LOP
region. That small vibration vibration is still less than anything I'd achieved
with the GAMI injectors in either ROP/LOP operations.
Finally, I note there is a difference between GAMI and Airflow for making injector
adjustments. GAMI changes out the whole injector whereas Airflow uses an
injector body, then they just swaps out the restrictor inserts, which only requires
removal of the fuel line nut, relatively easy to do even when we have to
work around/through the Velo plenum. With the GAMIs, I was never enthused about
screwing multiple injectors into the cylinders. The odds of cross-threading
and screwing up the injector or cylinder is low, but still there.
Whether you bring the plane to Spartanburg (SPA) or do it remotely, I'm guessing
you'll come away smarter and with as good or better results than from some of
their competitors. The office walls are plastered with all the show pilots
they tune, including Patty Wagstaff, Tucker, et al.
And the best part; the total cost for the Airflow injector balancing, including
new injectors, was about the cost of the GAMIs...and I didn't have to do all
the work.
So, as you might guess, I'm sold. Without reservation on cost, service or results,
Airflow gets my vote. This is one instance where we don't have to whine
about over-priced and under-served in the aviation business.
Chuck
Disclosure: I don't own or have an interest in Airflow...but I wish I did.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TASKEM altimeter |
I have one and have used it for several years / hundreds of hours as a backup altimeter
and primarily a rate of climb... and find it works well -once it's set
up and calibrated with the proper offset (which took some time). It does have
a bit of an annoying warm up period but seems to be dead-on with the steam guage
altimeter at every glance. I haven't had luck getting the encoder to work
(I wanted to use it as a back-up encoder as well) -but haven't invested much
effort in trying to figure out why the encoder function isn't working.
It makes an awesome R.O.C. and I find it's very easy to see small trends before
the altitude changes at all -which along with my primary steam guage altimeter
makes holding an altitude very easy.
I have just purchased a Dynon and will have essentially 3 altimeters after installing
it -because I'm keeping my steam guage altimeter for the forseeable future
to backup the Dynon (I fly for a living and have learned to appreciate steam
guage backups even in EFIS equipped corporate aircraft -those darn tubes get
really black when they go out... nothing like flying along seeing your reflection
in a dark screen in IMC)
Anyway -I might consider selling it 'cause 2 altimeters is enough. One electric...
one not.
Scott
N4ZW
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Anyone flying with a BMA/EFIS one? |
| From: | n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net |
I am interested in talking with people flying with the Blue Mountain
EFIS/One. I am having a hard time deciding what I want to use in my RV-10
and was hoping to get some real users input.
Please contact me offline at n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net. I'd really like
to talk with people who are flying with them.
Thank you
Mike
RV-4 Flying
RV-10 building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Large static port error |
I tried the rivet thing with unsatisfactory results and did this instead:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4987
another look:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4989
Roll yer own or let me know if ya want some...
Mark Phillips - Columbia, TN
RV-6A N51PW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Photo for presentation |
50' !! AGL or 50' above another plane? Either way is amazing.
Please do not attempt this any more, especially when I am around the area.
And is your insurance carrier Falcon at EAA.
Thank you Mike for the picture however. ONe for the scrap book to keep. do
not archive.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
Teamwork: " A lot of people doing exactly what I say."
(Marketing exec., Citrix Corp.)
(((((((((((())))))))))))))))
----- Original Message -----
>
>
> Nope. I was at about 50' when the photo was taken. She snapped the
> picture at the exact moment of a 4 point roll. That's what made it so
> neat.
>
> Mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Visit to Airflow Performance |
At 05:18 PM 8/18/05, you wrote:
>
>What's the money for the system?
I went through the numbers with Don on this. The price is about $3100 for
a complete system RV system, which is a little less than a complete Bendix
system. Don will sell either system. Now the complete system includes the
purge valve and fuel pump with filter. Make sure when you do a comparison,
you include those items. Note: the AFP auxiliary fuel pump is a lot less
expensive than any other FI fuel pump that I know of.
Also Don told me that the AFP will produce more HP than the Bendix, I did
not question him on this, so I can not defend his claim. But, I think the
AFP is bigger, therefore provides more air and fuel. For those that
disagree, talk to Don.
If all you will ever do is fly right side up, I would not recommend Fuel
Injection. In my case FI is harder to start and real hard to start when it
is hot, also I get engine surging on hot days while taxiing. These are not
complaints, just a trade off to get good inverted fuel flow to the engine.
For those still building and getting all that FAA educational and
recreational experience (occasional frustration), the educational and
recreational experience does not stop once the airplane is flying.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BBreckenridge(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight Video |
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
Walter;
Excellent quality video. Loved the "video in video" aspect of take off & landing.
I admit, watching the take off roll & rotation made me think that you were
going to retract your gear at any moment!! Maybe it was the music! Thanks
for a real treat. Enjoy!
Bruce
40018
Walter;
Excellent quality video. Loved the "video in video" aspect of take off landing.
I admit, watching the take off roll rotation made me think that you were going
to retract your gear at any moment!! Maybe it was the music! Thanks for a
real treat. Enjoy!
Bruce
40018
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Visit to Airflow Performance |
> Also Don told me that the AFP will produce more HP than the Bendix, I did
> not question him on this, so I can not defend his claim. But, I think the
> AFP is bigger, therefore provides more air and fuel. For those that
> disagree, talk to Don.
I can tell you that I get higher manifold pressure (and a heck of a fast
plane) using AFP injection on my RV-7. Don't know if the higher available
manifold pressure is due to AFP, extremely efficient induction/exhaust, or
what. Probably all of the above.
> If all you will ever do is fly right side up, I would not recommend Fuel
Don't forget about the ability to run LOP (lean of peak) when running
balanced FI. Hey, I don't know about you, but with fuel prices going nuts,
I run LOP on almost every flight, regardless of mission. The fuel savings
is getting bigger and bigger as fuel prices go up. Yes, the expense is
higher up front, but it pays for itself quickly. And more and more quickly
as fuel prices rise.
Fuel injection is not just about inverted fuel delivery. It's about saving
money, running your engine in a more healthy fashion, extracting more power
from the same displacement, etc. It's a thing of beauty!!
> Injection. In my case FI is harder to start and real hard to start when
> it
Do you use the purge valve? My engine is by no means as easy to start when
hot as a carb'd setup is, but it's not as bad as you make it out to be.
Every once in a while I booger a hot start, but it's always due to something
I screwed up in the process. When done correctly, it's easy.
I'm kind of a fuel injection fanatic, so take what I say with a grain of
salt.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Large static port error |
I'm flying a RV9A since last October. Let me say this about
'reengineering'. Think twice about it. I didn't alter anthing on my 9A.
Built it just the way Van's instructions and plans say to do. I've now got
about a hundred and ten hours on my beauty and nothing, and I mean nothing
has gone wrong. It flies beautifully and I wasn't slowed down in the
building process by having to redo something that didn't work out to be an
improvement after all. If you read and study the plans thoroughly before
cutting, pounding, bending, or riveting; get the firewall forward kit and
don't pick some weird powerplant, you'll save time (and money) in the long
run and go flying sooner with far fewer headaches and discouragements.
I enjoyed the building process more than I'd dreamed, but my motivation was
to build something to fly. That's why I didn't alter a thing from the
plans. To do so adds time to the building process. I get gobs of
compliments too. Oh yes, and my static ports work just fine!
Chuck Weyant
N8058V --- RV9A
I'll email a pic on request
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Large static port error
>
> I tried the rivet thing with unsatisfactory results and did this instead:
>
> http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4987
>
> another look:
>
> http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4989
>
> Roll yer own or let me know if ya want some...
>
> Mark Phillips - Columbia, TN
> RV-6A N51PW
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Visit to Airflow Performance |
On 19 Aug 2005, at 11:38, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>
>> Also Don told me that the AFP will produce more HP than the
>> Bendix, I did
>> not question him on this, so I can not defend his claim. But, I
>> think the
>> AFP is bigger, therefore provides more air and fuel. For those that
>> disagree, talk to Don.
>>
>
> I can tell you that I get higher manifold pressure (and a heck of a
> fast
> plane) using AFP injection on my RV-7. Don't know if the higher
> available
> manifold pressure is due to AFP, extremely efficient induction/
> exhaust, or
> what. Probably all of the above.
I'd love to see the data from testing with AFP and Bendix on the same
plane, with the same MP gauge, air filter, exhaust, etc. There are
so many variables if you try to compare data from AFP on one plane
against Bendix on another it is hard to know to which variable to
attribute any differences.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Visit to Airflow Performance |
For a complete system that's a Great Price! I think it's time to call Don.
Thanks for the info...
Darrell
Bob wrote:
At 05:18 PM 8/18/05, you wrote:
>
>What's the money for the system?
I went through the numbers with Don on this. The price is about $3100 for
a complete system RV system, which is a little less than a complete Bendix
system. Don will sell either system. Now the complete system includes the
purge valve and fuel pump with filter. Make sure when you do a comparison,
you include those items. Note: the AFP auxiliary fuel pump is a lot less
expensive than any other FI fuel pump that I know of.
Also Don told me that the AFP will produce more HP than the Bendix, I did
not question him on this, so I can not defend his claim. But, I think the
AFP is bigger, therefore provides more air and fuel. For those that
disagree, talk to Don.
If all you will ever do is fly right side up, I would not recommend Fuel
Injection. In my case FI is harder to start and real hard to start when it
is hot, also I get engine surging on hot days while taxiing. These are not
complaints, just a trade off to get good inverted fuel flow to the engine.
For those still building and getting all that FAA educational and
recreational experience (occasional frustration), the educational and
recreational experience does not stop once the airplane is flying.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Shaping the elevator counter weights: BAD IDEA |
Personally, I'd be more concerned about the lack of minimum acceptable thread protrusion.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 68 hours
RV-8A empennage complete
Am I the only one who is scared to death by the
washer/bolt idea shown below? If that bolt backs out
in flight, it will lead to a locked elevator! In my
opinion, that thing absolutely needs to be safety
wired!
Skylor
RV-8 QB
Under Construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Visit to Airflow Performance |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Kevin,
You're exactly correct in that such a side by side comparison is rife
with subjective, qualitative assessments. What I can tell you is after
Air Flow did injector balancing on a Bendix FI system, that the fuel
flow for the same power was 0.5 gph less, the peak EGT spread was
reduced to 0.3 gph from 1.5 gph (quantitative/factual) and the engine
ran markedly smoother through all power regimes
(qualitative/subjective).
A before-after is quite easy to compare. A side by side between two
different systems is significantly more difficult. I don't know if an
Air Flow FI is better than a Bendix FI, but I know an Air Flow injector
tuning took 1 year and several hundred dollars less than GAMI, which
never got there. So...
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: Visit to Airflow Performance
On 19 Aug 2005, at 11:38, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>
>> Also Don told me that the AFP will produce more HP than the
>> Bendix, I did
>> not question him on this, so I can not defend his claim. But, I
>> think the
>> AFP is bigger, therefore provides more air and fuel. For those that
>> disagree, talk to Don.
>>
>
> I can tell you that I get higher manifold pressure (and a heck of a
> fast
> plane) using AFP injection on my RV-7. Don't know if the higher
> available
> manifold pressure is due to AFP, extremely efficient induction/
> exhaust, or
> what. Probably all of the above.
I'd love to see the data from testing with AFP and Bendix on the same
plane, with the same MP gauge, air filter, exhaust, etc. There are
so many variables if you try to compare data from AFP on one plane
against Bendix on another it is hard to know to which variable to
attribute any differences.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Shaping the elevator counter weights: BAD IDEA |
Good eye Skylor -
In the text on the web site, you'll read that I wasn't satisfied with the
first draft and opted to move the bolt and weights to the outboard side of
the counterbalance rib. Though not specifically mentioned, it will also get
safety wire.
Brad and I have been discussing this very topic off-list.
Full page view here: http://www.appaero.com/emp_fiberlass.htm
>
Am I the only one who is scared to death by the
washer/bolt idea shown below? If that bolt backs out
in flight, it will lead to a locked elevator! In my
opinion, that thing absolutely needs to be safety
wired!
Skylor
RV-8 QB
Under Construction
<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Shaping the elevator counter weights: BAD IDEA |
Neal,
>
> Brad and I have been discussing this very topic off-list.
>
> Full page view here: http://www.appaero.com/emp_fiberlass.htm
>
Quick question on the elevator lead - I was thinking of just
cutting more space on the HS and then building up using
fiberglass over the lead counterweight to make it smooth.
Does this seem like it would work ok?
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | Fly-In Saturday Aug20 Polson, MT 8S1 |
Join us for our 7th Annual Polson Fly-in. Numerous experimentals, antiques
and other planes. Breakfast begins at 0800 and is free for pilots. Plan to
spend the whole day.....and join us for our famous 'pitchfork fondue'
evening meal to be followed by our Soroptomist Wine Tasting Festival.....all
at the Polson airport. Camping and shower on field...great motels nearby.
If you need further information, call me on my cell 406-249-0835. THANKS!
Tony Marshall
RV6 (and loving every single flying minute)
Polson, MT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Visit to Airflow Performance |
Chuck,
I'm very glad you posted your experience. I hadn't realized that AFP
sold nozzles that were compatible with Bendix FI systems. I've got a
Bendix FI system, and I'm glad there is another option than GAMI in
case I want to fine tune it. I'm not yet flying, but I plan to check
the curve of EGT vs fuel flow for each cylinder eventually.
How much did it cost to switch to the AFP nozzles? Are they pretty
much a bolt-in replacement, or did you have to make any changes to
the lines to the nozzles, etc?
Thanks,
Kevin Horton
On 19 Aug 2005, at 13:47, Chuck Jensen wrote:
>
> Kevin,
>
> You're exactly correct in that such a side by side comparison is rife
> with subjective, qualitative assessments. What I can tell you is
> after
> Air Flow did injector balancing on a Bendix FI system, that the fuel
> flow for the same power was 0.5 gph less, the peak EGT spread was
> reduced to 0.3 gph from 1.5 gph (quantitative/factual) and the engine
> ran markedly smoother through all power regimes
> (qualitative/subjective).
>
> A before-after is quite easy to compare. A side by side between two
> different systems is significantly more difficult. I don't know if an
> Air Flow FI is better than a Bendix FI, but I know an Air Flow
> injector
> tuning took 1 year and several hundred dollars less than GAMI, which
> never got there. So...
>
> Chuck Jensen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Shaping the elevator counter weights |
Hey Mickey -
I hit your site and looked at your emp pages trying to better understand the
question. Do you propose wrapping the forward end of the counterbalance
skin/fiberglass tip in a few layers of glass and relieving the aft end of
the HS skin flange/fiberglass tip to provide the needed clearance?
Seems like it would work. Given the differences in flexibility and
expansion coefficients, in a lamination of this sort will West 105/205 stay
stuck to the aluminum over the long haul? (I don't know - I have no
experience to support or refute.)
I'm not exactly surrounded by RVs here in the bowels of Alabama, but the few
that I've been able to give more than a passing glance have had a common
problem. If the counterbalance tips are pop-riveted and then
glassed/bondoed/filled smooth, cracks develop along the joint line where the
fiberglass tip meets the aluminum skin.
The two that I have been able to go look at when I get stumped (old-style
-8A and -6A) have riveted tips and un-filled joints.
Errors or shortcomings in the application? Wrong product? Maybe. I'm not
a glass wizard, and it seemed easier to avoid than prevent. And I wanted
the tips removable. So I chose to attach the tips with screws and stop the
bondo at the joint line.
neal
RV-7 N8ZG (71771, center fuse)
RV-8 N998GM (85224, skinning wings)
Neal,
Quick question on the elevator lead - I was thinking of just
cutting more space on the HS and then building up using
fiberglass over the lead counterweight to make it smooth.
Does this seem like it would work ok?
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Visit to Airflow Performance |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Kevin,
Since I had a mixed bag of injectors and had no way of knowing what they
were doing, we started out with a new set of his injectors ($16/ea--very
fair price). The injectors are an exact swap out. The fuel line and
nut attaches right to the new injector.
Thereafter, you only have to swap out the restrictors that are precisely
sized and slide right into the injector body. Swapping out restrictors
is a LOT faster than changing injectors when the engine is hot. After
completing a test flight, a fan blowing on the engine will cool the fuel
line nut enough to remove it bare handed after a few minutes. If you
are changing out the whole injector, they'll stay hot until the whole
engine cools down.
The cost of the restrictors, no matter how many you test and swap out,
is built into the $300 tuning fee. Air Flow even sent one of their
fellows along on the flight and he logged all the numbers as I read them
out--not an inconsequential convenience.
My only complaints; the hangar wasn't air conditioned and there were no
dancing girls. Everything else was top notch.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: Visit to Airflow Performance
Chuck,
I'm very glad you posted your experience. I hadn't realized that AFP
sold nozzles that were compatible with Bendix FI systems. I've got a
Bendix FI system, and I'm glad there is another option than GAMI in
case I want to fine tune it. I'm not yet flying, but I plan to check
the curve of EGT vs fuel flow for each cylinder eventually.
How much did it cost to switch to the AFP nozzles? Are they pretty
much a bolt-in replacement, or did you have to make any changes to
the lines to the nozzles, etc?
Thanks,
Kevin Horton
On 19 Aug 2005, at 13:47, Chuck Jensen wrote:
>
> Kevin,
>
> You're exactly correct in that such a side by side comparison is rife
> with subjective, qualitative assessments. What I can tell you is
> after
> Air Flow did injector balancing on a Bendix FI system, that the fuel
> flow for the same power was 0.5 gph less, the peak EGT spread was
> reduced to 0.3 gph from 1.5 gph (quantitative/factual) and the engine
> ran markedly smoother through all power regimes
> (qualitative/subjective).
>
> A before-after is quite easy to compare. A side by side between two
> different systems is significantly more difficult. I don't know if an
> Air Flow FI is better than a Bendix FI, but I know an Air Flow
> injector
> tuning took 1 year and several hundred dollars less than GAMI, which
> never got there. So...
>
> Chuck Jensen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture cable too short? |
After talking to Van's (Bruce, if I remember correctly) he told me that this
is "normal " for the cables provided with the FWF kit. He said to "adjust
the mixture to just reach the idle cutoff stop and accept whatever you get
at the rich end."
My fix was to do as he described, but first I drilled a new hole above the
old on the mixture lever, (further away from the pivot point) giving me more
cable travel per any given lever input. The end result is the ability to
reach the idle stop on the Carb. without running out of quadrant travel, and
falling just short (about 1/8 inch) from the full rich stop, also without
running out of quadrant travel.
The problem seems to be two fold. First, the cable just does not have the
length of travel to go stop to stop. The second is the quadrant. (Van's
deluxe) I needed to modify it as noted above to accomplish the necessary
amount of travel there.
Thanks to those who responded. This list is such a great resource.
I wanted to post this and get it into the archives so others my benefit in
the future.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S
St. Charles, MO
Getting close!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mixture cable too short?
>
> It would be helpful to know whether it was the cable or the quadrant
> that is causing the problem. If it's the cable then you would need a
> shorter mixture arm on the carb / FI servo. If it's the quadrant then
> simply move the attach point further out (away from the rotation axis).
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
> George Inman wrote:
>
>>
>>I started the engine yesterday for the first time. Big event, and it went
>>pretty
>>well. I knew before the start that my mixture arm was not quite making it
>>to
>>the idle cutoff stop but that was a compromise I had to make in order to
>>reach
>>the full rich stop. I would say the idle stop was short by about 1/8 inch,
>>just
>>enough to cause the engine to continue to run with the mixture lever off.
>>Prior to the start, and months ago while rigging the control cables I
>>spent hours
>>trying to adjust the cable/rod ends to achieve full travel to both stops
>>but
>>in the end had to compromise. It appears that the cable, or maybe the
>>quadrant,
>>does not have enough travel to accomplish both.
>>
>>I've been in the archives and have seen similar problems but no clues as
>>to the
>>fix. My thoughts are to perhaps move the attach point up on the mixture
>>lever
>>(Van's deluxe quadrant, and Cable too), thus providing more travel for any
>>given
>>lever movement and hopefully attain the little extra needed to hit both
>>stops.
>>I realize this fix will only work if the quadrant is the problem. But what
>>if it's the cable that does not have the necessary travel?
>>
>>Your thoughts, comments, and suggestions please.
>>
>>Steve Struyk
>>RV-8, N842S
>>
>>
>> Steve
>> I have the same problem with
>>my RV-8 with bendix fuel inj. In my case it is
>>the cables I got from Van's.they have only 2"
>>throw.Not enough for the throttle and just barely
>>enough for the mixture
>> The quadrant has a bit more than 2" throw
>>I think I might move the attach point up a bit
>>on the throttle arm.
>>
>>George Inman
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Grand Rapids Dual Display EFIS For Sale |
On 08/19 2:42, Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Hey all... I have discounted the price on my GRT Dual Display EFIS...
>
> If you're interested check out the details and photos on my web site...
>
> http://www.vondane.com/forsale/index.htm
Why are you selling?
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I have been asked to find out where those of you financing your planes have
gotten your loans.
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Let me clarify, I'm not taking a survey. A friend wants to finance a small
portion of his aircraft purchase and is looking for a recommendation on
financing.
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 2005 Twin Cities fly-in/camp-in |
Mark your calendars for September 10th, 2005! The Minnesota Wing is hosting
a flyin/campin at a beautiful private strip just east of the Minneapolis St.
Paul area. See:
http://www.mnwing.org/Picnic.htm
For details.
Hope to see you all there!
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 654 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi -
I did an article on financing homebuilt aircraft (and a follow-up on S-LSA)
in Kiplanes magazine (might be in the October 2004 issue).
Two companies that handle RVs are: NAFCO (www.airloans.com) and First
Pryority Bank in Oklahoma - don't have their contact info, but they're
searchable on Google. There are some newer entries into the field for
homebuilts that had booths at OSH as well, but I don't have their info
offhand. I can list them later on this evening.
best, Cory
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Furey
Subject: RV-List: Loans
I have been asked to find out where those of you financing your planes have
gotten your loans.
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Grand Rapids Dual Display EFIS For Sale |
I decided to install the Blue Mountain Sport...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Grand Rapids Dual Display EFIS For Sale
On 08/19 2:42, Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Hey all... I have discounted the price on my GRT Dual Display EFIS...
>
> If you're interested check out the details and photos on my web site...
>
> http://www.vondane.com/forsale/index.htm
Why are you selling?
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
On 08/19 5:26, John Furey wrote:
> I have been asked to find out where those of you financing your planes have
> gotten your loans.
If it was the IRS, don't forward this info. Otherwise, see entry
dated 1/13/04 on
http://www.rv7-a.com/avionics.htm
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying, HA!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <n1cxo320(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | circuit breaker installation |
I was asked if it made any difference which way a circuit breaker was
installed in an RV, e.i., load/source reversed. My breakers are labeled that
way, and that's how I wired mine, but I expect that it would not make any
difference in the operation of the breaker. Does anyone have any
authoritative information?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep |
>It's more of a speed thing then precision... You need to be able to make
>changes to the throttle, large or small, without any obstruction or delay...
Thanks for the inputs. I know now that there is a way to override the vernier
function...unless some think that is unsafe.
That formation clinic sounds like a great opportunity for those who attend.
I should probably concentrate on finishing my instrument rating first anyway.
Ya'll have fun and get some pretty pictures of your graduating formation.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Shaping the elevator counter weights |
Hi Neal,
Thanks for the info. I have not updated any of the pages on my
tail kit for a long while - I'm just now digging it out again
now that I'm trying to wrap things up.
I agree completely with you on using glass to "seal" the
tips. I think this is a bad idea. I saw this on another
builder's site, and it seemed like a good intro to glass
at the time. Too bad I can't undo it, so I kind of need
to make it work.
About the lead counterweights, I think you understand
exactly what I'm trying to do, based on your text
below.
Thanks again,
Mickey
George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR wrote:
>
> Hey Mickey -
> I hit your site and looked at your emp pages trying to better understand the
> question. Do you propose wrapping the forward end of the counterbalance
> skin/fiberglass tip in a few layers of glass and relieving the aft end of
> the HS skin flange/fiberglass tip to provide the needed clearance?
>
> Seems like it would work. Given the differences in flexibility and
> expansion coefficients, in a lamination of this sort will West 105/205 stay
> stuck to the aluminum over the long haul? (I don't know - I have no
> experience to support or refute.)
>
> I'm not exactly surrounded by RVs here in the bowels of Alabama, but the few
> that I've been able to give more than a passing glance have had a common
> problem. If the counterbalance tips are pop-riveted and then
> glassed/bondoed/filled smooth, cracks develop along the joint line where the
> fiberglass tip meets the aluminum skin.
>
> The two that I have been able to go look at when I get stumped (old-style
> -8A and -6A) have riveted tips and un-filled joints.
>
> Errors or shortcomings in the application? Wrong product? Maybe. I'm not
> a glass wizard, and it seemed easier to avoid than prevent. And I wanted
> the tips removable. So I chose to attach the tips with screws and stop the
> bondo at the joint line.
>
>
> neal
> RV-7 N8ZG (71771, center fuse)
> RV-8 N998GM (85224, skinning wings)
>
>
>
> Neal,
>
>
> Quick question on the elevator lead - I was thinking of just
> cutting more space on the HS and then building up using
> fiberglass over the lead counterweight to make it smooth.
> Does this seem like it would work ok?
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Brown" <nightmare(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | SL30 Nav Antenna |
Listers,
What antenna are you using for the SL30 Nav side. I ordered the Miller "wisker"
antenna and the "hocky puck" is to big for the vertical fin. I have a tail dragger
and don't want to put it under the tail.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ David McNeill ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: David McNeill
Lists: RV-List,RV10-List
Subject: AMSAFE inertial belts
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dlm46007@cox.net.08.20.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Free to good home: Van's fuel gauges |
I've got two Van's type fuel gauges that I don't need.
Contact me off line if you're interested in springing
for the postage of about $5-$10.
Greg in Honolulu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Cordner" <davcor(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Free to good home: Van's fuel gauges |
I can use 'em
Dave Cordner
Arvada, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Grigson" <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Free to good home: Van's fuel gauges
>
>
> I've got two Van's type fuel gauges that I don't need.
> Contact me off line if you're interested in springing
> for the postage of about $5-$10.
>
> Greg in Honolulu
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: SL30 Nav Antenna |
Hi Paul
Common problem with the V cats whiskers.
Rivet an (upside down) |__| shaped bracket into the top of the
stabilizer to make a shelf for the antenna to sit on. Top of bracket &
bottom of the "hockey puck" then sit level with top of the stabilizer
skin. Next cut holes in each side of the fiberglass fairing so that it
fits over, and lets the "hockey puck" stick out evenly on each side of
fairing. Put two #10 plate nuts on bracket for mounting antenna and #6
plate nuts on fairing to make it removable. Grommets go in top & bottom
VS ribs for ant. wire which is easily fished through with welding rod,
hinge pin etc. Looks professional.
George in Langley BC
Paul Brown wrote:
>What antenna are you using for the SL30 Nav side. I ordered the Miller "wisker"
antenna and the "hocky puck" is to big for the vertical fin. I have a tail dragger
and don't want to put it under the tail.
>
>Paul
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SL30 Nav Antenna |
Paul,
With my SL-30, I used a Commant CI-158C mounted under the belly of
the horizontal stabilizer.
On the top of the vertical stabilizer, it may an "eye" poker,
depending on your air frame.
Richard Reynolds, RV-6A
Norfolk, VA
On Aug 20, 2005, at 9:35 AM, Paul Brown wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> What antenna are you using for the SL30 Nav side. I ordered the
> Miller "wisker" antenna and the "hocky puck" is to big for the
> vertical fin. I have a tail dragger and don't want to put it under
> the tail.
>
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
Hi all
just a note to let you know that Eustace is doing a lot
better.While on holiday from Australia we visited Eustace in hospital and
was pleasantly surprised with his condition. He is still as witty as ever
and was leaving for his new abode the following day.Ofcourse he has some
work to do but I am sure being home and a good feed from Nora will do him
wonders
I am very sure he will be back on the list ASAP so I will let him update you
all on his address etc.
Regards Chris Mcgough
RV6 VH-MUM sold
RV10 Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | ED Hicks in buffalo,ny |
Arrangements have been made to bring Ed Hicks into Poughkeepsie, NY in the
first week of September. On sept 6th I'll be bringing him to the Niagara
falls, buffalo area and will be scheduling air to air photography to keep
him busy. So if anybody in the area would like to get some pictures taken
from sept 6th to the 8th give me a call or e-mail. Also we need some
formation experienced pilots to help out.
He'll be in Fulton, NY on the 9th and 10th for the Oswego county chapter 486
ELEVENTH ANNUAL RV Builders' Forum. (FZY)
Steve DiNieri
716.579.5790
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alan(at)reichertech.com |
Looking at the drawing for the HS on the -8 (drawing 3), I see that there
is a callout to leave 10 holes open (5 each side) on the inboard ribs,
topside, for attaching the fairing later. What I can't find in the
preview plans is *how* this is attached. Do the plans call for rivets to
attach them? If so, I think I'd rather put in nut plates for this.
Any pointers from the more experienced crowd?
Alternately, I've looked at the fairings-etc site. From the pics, it
looks like they have their own mounting screw locations, so these 10
places aren't even being used, correct?
Stop me now before I make (another) stupid mistake! :-)
--
Alan Reichert
Priv, Inst, SEL
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SL30 Nav Antenna |
Hi George.
That sounds slick. Got a photo?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lifting RV to set breakout force |
Whast is the best way to lift the nose gear off the ground to check the
breakout force of the nose wheel on a 7-A ? I don't have access to a hoist
and am leary of using the old Cessna trick of puting weight on the tail to
get the nose off the ground.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting while pregnant? |
Hi Bill,
I'm catching up on emails after 10 days of vacation.
Just out of curiosity, what's their definition of 'intense'? 100 dB, or
is it like the poison threshold of water (if you drink enough it's
poisonous)? It's pretty much impossible to cause 16 hours of continuous
exposure to the noise of a rivet gun if you are actually building
something. A 16 hour session (impressive in itself; more so for a
pregnant woman) would probably result in about 1 hr total of noise exposure.
I read somewhere (sorry but I can't provide the reference) that children
aren't as susceptible to noise induced hearing damage as adults. I was
surprised when I read it as I've always felt that it was irresponsible
to expose babies/children to the sound levels at rock concerts.
Are you going to Winston-Salem Sept 10? We'll be in Greensboro that
weekend, I'm committed to attending a 1st B'day party but might be able
to make it before or after the party.
Charlie
sportav8r(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Here's what I got back from the local audiologist. There appears to be potential
cause for concern. Makes you wonder how many kids, whose mamas went to Led
Zeppelin concerts while pregnant, were born brain damaged as a result. I guess
it goes to show you: noise, like water and air, is bad for you and causes
cancer in California. Nothing in life is safe, which is why we need big.gov to
protect us from everything.
>
>-Stormy
>
>
>1: Ear Hear. 1999 Feb;20(1):21-32.Related Articles, Links
>
>
>Effects of intense noise exposure on fetal sheep auditory brain stem response
and inner ear histology.
>
>Gerhardt KJ, Pierson LL, Huang X, Abrams RM, Rarey KE.
>
>Department of Communication Sciences and Disorders and the Institute for the Advanced
Study of Communication Processes, University of Florida, Gainesville 32611,
USA.
>
>OBJECTIVE: To evaluate, in two separate experiments, the effects of intense noise
exposures delivered to fetal sheep in utero during a time of rapid auditory
development. DESIGN: In the first experiment, auditory brain stem response (ABR)
thresholds to clicks and tone bursts were recorded from chronically instrumented
fetal sheep in utero before and after exposure of pregnant ewes to intense
broadband noise. A single 16 hr exposure was delivered at 113 days gestational
age, a time when the ABR is just emerging. Thresholds were compared with
an age-matched, nonexposed control group. In the second experiment, fetal sheep
at the same gestational age were exposed four times to broadband noise and
their cochleae were harvested 20 days later for histological analysis by the use
of scanning electron microscopy. Comparisons were made with an age-matched,
nonexposed control group. RESULTS: Experiment One: ABR thresholds recorded between
10 to 20 days after the exposure were not as se
>n
> sitive as thresholds obtained from control fetuses. There was a tendency for
thresholds to 0.5 kHz tone bursts to be more affected than thresholds to clicks.
Experiment Two: Scanning electron microscopy of the organ of Corti from fetuses
exposed to noise from 111 to 114 days gestational age revealed significant
damage to inner and outer hair cells in the middle and apical turns of cochleae.
Similar hair cell damage was not present in control fetuses. CONCLUSIONS:
Intense exogenous noise penetrated the uterus of pregnant sheep and resulted
in elevations in ABR thresholds 2 to 3 wk after exposure. In fetuses repeatedly
exposed to noise, the middle and apical turns of the cochlea showed greater
hair cell damage than found at the same locations in control cochlea. The basal
turn of the cochlea was not damaged
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting while pregnant? |
I think it's an (intensity x duration)= exposure thing, Charlie. Certainly there
is a threshold below which no damage will occur regardless of exposure, but
it's likely lower than the sound, say, of a contentious woman. Not sure how
I'd know that, exactly.
I'll bite on your question: what's happening Sept 10th in Winston-Salem?
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Riveting while pregnant?
Hi Bill,
I'm catching up on emails after 10 days of vacation.
Just out of curiosity, what's their definition of 'intense'? 100 dB, or
is it like the poison threshold of water (if you drink enough it's
poisonous)? It's pretty much impossible to cause 16 hours of continuous
exposure to the noise of a rivet gun if you are actually building
something. A 16 hour session (impressive in itself; more so for a
pregnant woman) would probably result in about 1 hr total of noise exposure.
I read somewhere (sorry but I can't provide the reference) that children
aren't as susceptible to noise induced hearing damage as adults. I was
surprised when I read it as I've always felt that it was irresponsible
to expose babies/children to the sound levels at rock concerts.
Are you going to Winston-Salem Sept 10? We'll be in Greensboro that
weekend, I'm committed to attending a 1st B'day party but might be able
to make it before or after the party.
Charlie
sportav8r(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Here's what I got back from the local audiologist. There appears to be
potential cause for concern. Makes you wonder how many kids, whose mamas went
to Led Zeppelin concerts while pregnant, were born brain damaged as a result.
I
guess it goes to show you: noise, like water and air, is bad for you and causes
cancer in California. Nothing in life is safe, which is why we need big.gov to
protect us from everything.
>
>-Stormy
>
>
>1: Ear Hear. 1999 Feb;20(1):21-32.Related Articles, Links
>
>
>Effects of intense noise exposure on fetal sheep auditory brain stem response
and inner ear histology.
>
>Gerhardt KJ, Pierson LL, Huang X, Abrams RM, Rarey KE.
>
>Department of Communication Sciences and Disorders and the Institute for the
Advanced Study of Communication Processes, University of Florida, Gainesville
32611, USA.
>
>OBJECTIVE: To evaluate, in two separate experiments, the effects of intense
noise exposures delivered to fetal sheep in utero during a time of rapid
auditory development. DESIGN: In the first experiment, auditory brain stem
response (ABR) thresholds to clicks and tone bursts were recorded from
chronically instrumented fetal sheep in utero before and after exposure of
pregnant ewes to intense broadband noise. A single 16 hr exposure was delivered
at 113 days gestational age, a time when the ABR is just emerging. Thresholds
were compared with an age-matched, nonexposed control group. In the second
experiment, fetal sheep at the same gestational age were exposed four times to
broadband noise and their cochleae were harvested 20 days later for histological
analysis by the use of scanning electron microscopy. Comparisons were made with
an age-matched, nonexposed control group. RESULTS: Experiment One: ABR
thresholds recorded between 10 to 20 days after the exposure were not as se
>n
> sitive as thresholds obtained from control fetuses. There was a tendency for
thresholds to 0.5 kHz tone bursts to be more affected than thresholds to clicks.
Experiment Two: Scanning electron microscopy of the organ of Corti from fetuses
exposed to noise from 111 to 114 days gestational age revealed significant
damage to inner and outer hair cells in the middle and apical turns of cochleae.
Similar hair cell damage was not present in control fetuses. CONCLUSIONS:
Intense exogenous noise penetrated the uterus of pregnant sheep and resulted in
elevations in ABR thresholds 2 to 3 wk after exposure. In fetuses repeatedly
exposed to noise, the middle and apical turns of the cochlea showed greater hair
cell damage than found at the same locations in control cochlea. The basal turn
of the cochlea was not damaged
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lifting RV to set breakout force |
version=3.0.2
Well, I put 2 5 gal cans of gas, one on each side of the horz stab close to
the fusl. to make it very easy to lift the front wheel for setting it on a
block. Of course I had the pants off, with a helper that should work,
Charlie Heathco.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lifting RV to set breakout force
Whast is the best way to lift the nose gear off the ground to check the
breakout force of the nose wheel on a 7-A ? I don't have access to a hoist
and am leary of using the old Cessna trick of puting weight on the tail to
get the nose off the ground.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | SL30 Nav Antenna |
I use a Bob Archer wing tip antenna. Granted it is on a KX155, but I
think it would also work fine on a SL30 as that is what I plan on using
in my -10. The nice thing is it is totally hidden within your wing tip,
so it won't poke anyone in the eye like if you put a whisker antenna on
the VS of any RV tail dragger.....
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MLWynn(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: SL30 Nav Antenna
Hi George.
That sounds slick. Got a photo?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SL30 Nav Antenna |
version=3.0.2
I installed a Bob Archer in the wing tip to replace to whip the org builder
of my 6a had installed, still marginal reception. I took Mike S advice and
spent the mony on a blade and installed in underside, just left of 2nd rib
from center, get exelent reception. If you are going for formation flying,
this is the prefered setup, Charlie Heathco Boerne Stage.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: SL30 Nav Antenna
I use a Bob Archer wing tip antenna. Granted it is on a KX155, but I
think it would also work fine on a SL30 as that is what I plan on using
in my -10. The nice thing is it is totally hidden within your wing tip,
so it won't poke anyone in the eye like if you put a whisker antenna on
the VS of any RV tail dragger.....
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MLWynn(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: SL30 Nav Antenna
Hi George.
That sounds slick. Got a photo?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Free to good home: Van's fuel gauges |
I'll take em if their still available.
jim Bowen
RV-8 QB
Sumner, Wa
>From: "Dave Cordner" <davcor(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Free to good home: Van's fuel gauges
>Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2005 13:59:12 -0600
>
>
>I can use 'em
>
>
>Dave Cordner
>Arvada, CO
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Greg Grigson" <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Free to good home: Van's fuel gauges
>
>
> >
> >
> > I've got two Van's type fuel gauges that I don't need.
> > Contact me off line if you're interested in springing
> > for the postage of about $5-$10.
> >
> > Greg in Honolulu
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lifting RV to set breakout force |
On 08/20 6:18, Richard Suffoletto wrote:
>
> Whast is the best way to lift the nose gear off the ground to check the
> breakout force of the nose wheel on a 7-A ? I don't have access to a hoist
> and am leary of using the old Cessna trick of puting weight on the tail to
> get the nose off the ground.
Attach a sturdy item like a bucket hanging from the rear tie down hook.
Add lead shot, dive belts or anything else heavy until it takes
only your hand to lift the nosegear. If I remember correctly it took
two dive belts and two bags of lead shot.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying, HA!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep |
version=3.0.2
I have wanted to get involved with the formation flying and have read the
manual and watched the vidios. I also did a form takeoff which was a lot of
funn as we stayed in ground and built up speed for a dramatic pullup, and I
came in pretty close on BFBilly, but it was very turb and I felt comming in
real close was too risky, also flying into the sun the vis was poor. While
flying around today I was bouncing around like crazy, one time poped up 100'
before I cought it, I am concerned mostly about staying in place under these
conditions. I have meet several of the experienced folks when you came into
Mathis last year and had to wait several hrs to get out that Sat morn. All I
talked to had lots of formation time. My WWII budy had 100hrs of form time
in his B-26 before they turned him loose. I only have about 75 hrs in my 6a
which is only 150 hp, mostly X-country and landing practice. Evryone I met
that day had 180hp or better. I do have a Comm/Multi, but 35 yrs pased
between gettings those ratings an getting bak to flying. I wish I had the
absolute confidence and immortal thinking that Mike has, but alas, in spite
of the
insane flying I did in 68, I no longer do. Do I have a Chance in the
formation clinick? charlie Heathco Boerne.
----- Original Message -----
From: <sturdy(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by
Stu McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow the sequence previously used at
our other successful formation clinics. The clinic targets RV type
aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and airspeeds will be
considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation backgrounds from
no experience to highly experienced, but all registrants should have
excellent stick and rudder skills. We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little
experience, 1/3 medium experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we
expect participants to be prepared by obtaining and studying referenced
materials. To read clinic info, to register, as well as to make your motel
reservations, go here
http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be held
only until
8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
Stu McCurdy
Falcon Flight
FFI
RV-8
The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by Stu
McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow
the sequence previously used at our other successful formation clinics. The
clinic targets RV type aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and
airspeeds will be considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation
backgrounds from no experience to highly experienced, but all registrants
should have excellent stick and rudder skills. We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little experience, 1/3 medium
experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we expect participants to be
prepared by obtaining and studying referenced materials. To read clinic
info, to register, as well as to make your motel reservations, go here
http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be held
only until 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
Stu McCurdy
Falcon Flight
FFI
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lifting RV to set breakout force |
Lots of ways to skin that cat.
My technique for the 6A is to chock the mains, take off the front
half of the nose pant. Then get a helper to slip some blocks under
the nose gear strut bottom while you push down on the horizontal
stab. I put my elbows and forearms along the rib in the stab and
stay inboard from that. When the helper has the block in place,
lower gently. You can then check and adjustthe break out force. You
can also change a tire this way. If you need to get the fork or nose
strut off, you will need to use another method. Two are
listed below.
When no helper is available, I use a couple 70 lb sand tubes sold at
home depot for adding weight to your trunk or pickup bed during
winter months. They need some anti skid material beneath them lest
they slide off when the tail is depressed. This will leave your tail
on the hangar floor. I believe the horizontal stab is plenty strong
enough for this method; although I too would be leary of doing it
with some Cessnas, which do not appear to have such sturdy tail.
A better method is to get a chain or rope and pull down on the tail
ring. You can either install a permanent tie down ring on your
hangar floor or get a weighted rig of some sort.
Lastly I once saw a "prop stand" a fellow had made for his
Lancair. It was a device which had two horizontal forks with
adjustable height. This allowed you to push down the tail then lower
the nose so the propeller rested on the forks. That one makes me a
little nervous especially for a 7A which would have more than 300
pounds force put on the prop and crank not to mention the engine mount.
Denis Walsh
On Aug 20, 2005, at 7:18 PM, Richard Suffoletto wrote:
>
>
> Whast is the best way to lift the nose gear off the ground to check
> the
> breakout force of the nose wheel on a 7-A ? I don't have access to
> a hoist
> and am leary of using the old Cessna trick of puting weight on the
> tail to
> get the nose off the ground.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Fairing |
Hi Alan,
I think that you will find installing nut plates later to be a good answer.
If you use his intersection fairing? Bob's fairings wrap around the
horizontal stab leading edges some amount and you might get away with
requiring less fasteners?.
As far as quality and fit are concerned I found his 6A gear fairings to be
very good products.
If you like Go ahead and rivet all the holes for now. Later you can drill
out any that you might need to when the time comes to do the final fitting.
I used the Van's supplied fairing circa 1996. I modified it to wrap around
the H. stab leading edge a bit because I felt it would stay in place better
and look better.
It took a lot of doing to make that stock Van's part fit well. I chose to
use the ten fasteners called for. To my eye they don't look out of place and
they get the job done well enough.
Happy building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <alan(at)reichertech.com>
Subject: RV-List: Tail Fairing
>
>
> Looking at the drawing for the HS on the -8 (drawing 3), I see that there
> is a callout to leave 10 holes open (5 each side) on the inboard ribs,
> topside, for attaching the fairing later. What I can't find in the
> preview plans is *how* this is attached. Do the plans call for rivets to
> attach them? If so, I think I'd rather put in nut plates for this.
>
> Any pointers from the more experienced crowd?
>
> Alternately, I've looked at the fairings-etc site. From the pics, it
> looks like they have their own mounting screw locations, so these 10
> places aren't even being used, correct?
>
> Stop me now before I make (another) stupid mistake! :-)
>
> --
> Alan Reichert
> Priv, Inst, SEL
> RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
> Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Screws and nutplates. I remember X-ing those holes with red marker so I
wouldn't dimple them, so I guess it's specified in the plans somewhere. If
needed, existing rivets can be drilled out for nutplates later, so I didn't
think it's a critical decision at this point.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> alan(at)reichertech.com
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 7:56 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tail Fairing
>
>
>
> Looking at the drawing for the HS on the -8 (drawing 3), I
> see that there is a callout to leave 10 holes open (5 each
> side) on the inboard ribs, topside, for attaching the fairing
> later. What I can't find in the preview plans is *how* this
> is attached. Do the plans call for rivets to attach them?
> If so, I think I'd rather put in nut plates for this.
>
> Any pointers from the more experienced crowd?
>
> Alternately, I've looked at the fairings-etc site. From the
> pics, it looks like they have their own mounting screw
> locations, so these 10 places aren't even being used, correct?
>
> Stop me now before I make (another) stupid mistake! :-)
>
> --
> Alan Reichert
> Priv, Inst, SEL
> RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
> Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
I have a Bob Archer antenna in my RV-8 right wingtip for the NAV portion of my
SL30 and receive VORs 80-90 nm out and ILS just fine. I do not know of a preferred
location for a NAV antenna for formation??? Unless you are the flight lead,
you should not be looking at a VOR indicator anyway. I have led a couple
formation flights and the Bob Archer wingtip NAV antenna has always displayed
a VOR radial just fine in the SL30 for keeping in the assigned area, even while
maneuvering.
Stu McCurdy
---------------------------------------------
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
Subject: Re: RV-List: SL30 Nav Antenna
version=3.0.2
I installed a Bob Archer in the wing tip to replace to whip the org builder
of my 6a had installed, still marginal reception. I took Mike S advice and
spent the mony on a blade and installed in underside, just left of 2nd rib
from center, get exelent reception. If you are going for formation flying,
this is the prefered setup, Charlie Heathco Boerne Stage.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: SL30 Nav Antenna
I use a Bob Archer wing tip antenna. Granted it is on a KX155, but I
think it would also work fine on a SL30 as that is what I plan on using
in my -10. The nice thing is it is totally hidden within your wing tip,
so it won't poke anyone in the eye like if you put a whisker antenna on
the VS of any RV tail dragger.....
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's 60 Amp Alternator Failure - Beck Arnley Replacement Part |
Number 186-0373
| From: | "John Wiegenstein" <johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com> |
For all you folks running the Van's 60 amp alternator, if you need a
replacement unit it is a Lester #14684, which cross references to
several different manufacturer numbers. At your local NAPA store you
should be able to find it as a remanufactured unit from Beck Arnley, p/n
186-0373. Cost is about $129 plus core.
I had occasion to learn this after the Van's alternator in N727JW (came
with FWF kit in 2003, had 70 hrs on it) rolled over and died while I was
visiting Seaside, OR last week. A quick check of the symptoms and
system components convinced me that the problem was with the alternator
itself. Fortunately, a local helicopter tour pilot happened to come by
the airport as I was troubleshooting things, and he helped with some
tools and a ride to the rental car office in Astoria. After runnning
back home to Hansville for the night, grabbing tools, finding the
replacement alternator, etc. I drove back yesterday to Seaside and
swapped the new unit in in 30 minutes. It was a perfect drop in
replacement. The old unit had a broken rear bracket (the pressed steel
one that comes with the alternator), and the machine screws holding the
bracket to the alternator body had loosened significantly. The
original installation had lined up well and seemed to be a good setup.
My suspicion is that these screws loosened up first, allowing the
alternator body to move around somewhat, and that this flexing and
uneven loads eventually caused an internal failure of some kind. The
famed Lycosaur shakes presumably hastened the early demise.
The new unit worked fine and a 35 minute flight had me back at Tacoma
Narrows - much better that 3.5 hours in a thoroughly unimpressive Chevy
Impala rental (and GM wonders why they're losing market share . . .).
Annual inspection is due next month and I may R&R those bracket mounting
machine screws and use some Loctite on them just to play it safe. The
original Van's unit had always produced plenty of amps and a solid,
steady 14.4 volts bus voltage at cruise, and the new one seems to be the
same in that regard - it came with a test data sheet showing 52 amps max
output, which is more than enough for my aircraft.
Anyway, thanks to Gary Turel of Seaside Helicopters for lending a
helping hand at a time of need (there ain't much at the Seaside Airport,
56S - just some tie downs and a honeybucket), and perhaps this info on
the replacement Beck Arnley part will help someone else out. Will be
interesting to see how long the replacement unit lasts.
Naturally, I had just been commenting a few days before to my wife about
how trouble-free and reliable the RV has been so far . . . :-)
John Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 N727 JW - 70 hrs. (and a new alternator)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pete Waters <pedroagua(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fairings, Etc, for Horizontal Stab |
Gang,
Exactly where is the "fairings-etc" website referenced below?
Thanks,
Pedro
RV-4 N562PW
<< Alternately, I've looked at the fairings-etc site. From the pics, it looks
like they have their own mounting screw locations, so these 10 places aren't even
being used, correct?>>
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fairings, Etc, for Horizontal Stab |
In a message dated 8/21/2005 8:47:22 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
pedroagua(at)yahoo.com writes:
Exactly where is the "fairings-etc" website referenced below?
===================================
For all you newbies, contact info for and links to all well known RV
suppliers resides at _http://www.matronics.com/YellerPages/_
(http://www.matronics.com/YellerPages/)
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 755hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Fairings, Etc, for Horizontal Stab |
| From: | alan(at)reichertech.com |
http://www.fairings-etc.com
- Alan
Gang,
Exactly where is the "fairings-etc" website referenced below?
Thanks,
Pedro
RV-4 N562PW
<< Alternately, I've looked at the fairings-etc site. From the pics, it
looks
like they have their own mounting screw locations, so these 10 places
aren't even
being used, correct?>>
--
Alan Reichert
Priv, Inst, SEL
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fairings, Etc, for Horizontal Stab |
On 21 Aug 2005, at 11:45, Pete Waters wrote:
>
> Gang,
>
> Exactly where is the "fairings-etc" website referenced below?
>
Try http://www.google.com/search?q=fairings-etc
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SL30 Nav Antenna |
There is no reason I can think of to not put a cat whisker nav antenna under
the tail on an RV taildragger. Jeff Ludwig's wonderful (and Air Venture cup
winning) RV-8 had (sold it) this setup and it flew hard IFR for years
without any problems at all. Anyone who puts this kind of antenna on the
top of a taildragger RV vertical stab should be flogged for presenting a
clear and present safety danger to anyone on the ground. For a nosedragger
RV, it's OK, but taildragger, no way. I'd be looking for a hacksaw if I see
one. The vision you save may be your own.
My opinion only. But, show me where I'm wrong. There are no compromises
when it comes to safety.
Oh, the Archer antennas are terrific. I'm using them on my -10 when the
time comes.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
>Paul,
>
>With my SL-30, I used a Commant CI-158C mounted under the belly of
>the horizontal stabilizer.
>
>On the top of the vertical stabilizer, it may an "eye" poker,
>depending on your air frame.
>
>Richard Reynolds, RV-6A
>Norfolk, VA
>
>On Aug 20, 2005, at 9:35 AM, Paul Brown wrote:
>
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > What antenna are you using for the SL30 Nav side. I ordered the
> > Miller "wisker" antenna and the "hocky puck" is to big for the
> > vertical fin. I have a tail dragger and don't want to put it under
> > the tail.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Overhaul Seminar |
version=3.0.2
Hiya Mathew, I had gotten it my mind that the seminar was going to be in
tulsa since that was the place mentioned in your post. I didnt even notice
the little box on the reg form until just a while ago when looking it over
to see which airport, I even thought that Lees summit airport must be in the
tulsa area, untill I put it in my gps and it shot a line to leesumit Mo. I
had planned on combining trip to NW arkproperty, but LS MO is too long a
trip, nearly 800 air miles. Out of the question if had to end up driving due
to weather. I see its a no refund deal, but since its over a month away hope
you can make an exeption in this case? Charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine Overhaul Seminar
Ever wondered what is involved in overhauling a Lycoming engine? Here's
your chance! On September 24th, join Allen Barrett of Barrett Precision
Engines of Tulsa, OK in the rebuild of a Lycoming O-320 engine. Watch as we
rebuild the entire engine from parts to completion. Gain a better
understanding of the process and costs involved. Learn valuable tips and
tricks from engine builders with over 60 years of experience! Space is
limited.
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~eaa1329/EngineOverhaulSeminar.pdf
<http://home>
Matthew Brandes,
EAA Chapter 1329 President
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
version=3.0.2
Sorry for the confusion, I was refering to comm ant, Charlie h do not
archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <sturdy(at)att.net>
I have a Bob Archer antenna in my RV-8 right wingtip for the NAV portion of
my SL30 and receive VORs 80-90 nm out and ILS just fine. I do not know of a
preferred location for a NAV antenna for formation??? Unless you are the
flight lead, you should not be looking at a VOR indicator anyway. I have
led a couple formation flights and the Bob Archer wingtip NAV antenna has
always displayed a VOR radial just fine in the SL30 for keeping in the
assigned area, even while maneuvering.
Stu McCurdy
---------------------------------------------
From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SL30 Nav Antenna
version=3.0.2
I installed a Bob Archer in the wing tip to replace to whip the org builder
of my 6a had installed, still marginal reception. I took Mike S advice and
spent the mony on a blade and installed in underside, just left of 2nd rib
from center, get exelent reception. If you are going for formation flying,
this is the prefered setup, Charlie Heathco Boerne Stage.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: SL30 Nav Antenna
I use a Bob Archer wing tip antenna. Granted it is on a KX155, but I
think it would also work fine on a SL30 as that is what I plan on using
in my -10. The nice thing is it is totally hidden within your wing tip,
so it won't poke anyone in the eye like if you put a whisker antenna on
the VS of any RV tail dragger.....
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fairings, Etc, for Horizontal Stab |
Hi Pete,
Try http://www.fairings-etc.com/
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Waters" <pedroagua(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fairings, Etc, for Horizontal Stab
>
> Gang,
>
> Exactly where is the "fairings-etc" website referenced below?
>
> Thanks,
> Pedro
>
> RV-4 N562PW
>
> << Alternately, I've looked at the fairings-etc site. From the pics, it
> looks like they have their own mounting screw locations, so these 10
> places aren't even being used, correct?>>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lui Esc" <f1rocketbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity Trim Relay Deck |
I was wondering if anyone has used the Infinity Relay Deck for the elevator
and aileron trim?
Infinity Aeropsace Trim Relay Deck, see at
http://www.infinityaerospace.com/Relay_Deck_Wiring_Schematic.jpg
1. Have you had the need for Trim Speed control using this Relay Deck?
2. Did you figure out a way to wire a speed control module with this Relay
Deck?
Thank you,
Luis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | balancing wheel fairings |
I just balanced my main wheel fairings (RV-6A) using the lead shot &
epoxy method described here several times. Is there any need to also
balance the nose wheel fairing? It seems to be physically constrained
better than the main wheel fairings, so I'm thinking there is no point
in doing it.
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A, Cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | balancing wheel fairings |
I was having a constant shimmy in my nose gear that I did not notice but a
formation partner said was very noticeable so I just did the balance but
have not had it checked yet. I'll report back as soon as I know if it
worked. I plan to do the mains now.
John
RV6A O-320 Hartzel 425hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Life Insurance... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
2.02 SUBJ_LIFE_INSURANCE Subject includes "life insurance"
Just curious, what Life Insurance companies are the "kindest" on their
rates to pilots?
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Life Insurance... (not processed: message from valid |
local sender) 2.02 SUBJ_LIFE_INSURANCE Subject includes "life insurance"
| From: | "Jeffery J. Morgan" <jmorgan(at)compnetconcepts.com> |
Prudential has been good to me. American express and several others
wouldn't take me without huge premiums, but Prudential was fair and
better priced by far than others.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Johnson
Subject: RV-List: Life Insurance... (not processed: message from valid
local sender) 2.02 SUBJ_LIFE_INSURANCE Subject includes "life insurance"
Just curious, what Life Insurance companies are the "kindest" on their
rates to pilots?
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
Builders,
Do we have anyone who has installed cowl flaps with either the AFP or Bendix fuel
injection setup?
Darrell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SL30 Nav Antenna |
my RV-6 is still in my shop at home and with tight quarters, I have been
walking around it for months. It hits me about chest level if I were to
walk into it. Why would this put an eye out. I see no issue other than
someone coming along and cutting it off with a hacksaw. I like it there and
it stays.
my opinion only.
Tim Bryan
-------Original Message-------
From: Brian Denk
Date: 08/21/05 16:12:39
Subject: Re: RV-List: SL30 Nav Antenna
There is no reason I can think of to not put a cat whisker nav antenna under
the tail on an RV taildragger. Jeff Ludwig's wonderful (and Air Venture cup
winning) RV-8 had (sold it) this setup and it flew hard IFR for years
without any problems at all. Anyone who puts this kind of antenna on the
top of a taildragger RV vertical stab should be flogged for presenting a
clear and present safety danger to anyone on the ground. For a nosedragger
RV, it's OK, but taildragger, no way. I'd be looking for a hacksaw if I see
one. The vision you save may be your own.
My opinion only. But, show me where I'm wrong. There are no compromises
when it comes to safety.
Oh, the Archer antennas are terrific. I'm using them on my -10 when the
time comes.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
>Paul,
>
>With my SL-30, I used a Commant CI-158C mounted under the belly of
>the horizontal stabilizer.
>
>On the top of the vertical stabilizer, it may an "eye" poker,
>depending on your air frame.
>
>Richard Reynolds, RV-6A
>Norfolk, VA
>
>On Aug 20, 2005, at 9:35 AM, Paul Brown wrote:
>
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > What antenna are you using for the SL30 Nav side. I ordered the
> > Miller "wisker" antenna and the "hocky puck" is to big for the
> > vertical fin. I have a tail dragger and don't want to put it under
> > the tail.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
| Subject: | Extending a glide |
0.14 FROM_NO_LOWER From address has no lower-case characters
Suppose, just suppose that you're in your RV-8 on speed, full flaps turning
base to 1/2 mile final and the engine quits. You are pretty sure that you
have the runway made but you want to extend your glide as much as possible.
Do you leave the flaps where they are or do you raise them and if so how
much? Thought about this yesterday as I turned final.
Rich Crosley
RV-8 N948RC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephanie Marshall" <smarshall(at)enid.org> |
I hope everyone had a good weekend, but I have some RV Widow's Diary bad news.
Somehow my server provider lost all of my guestbook entries, if you left a nice
message (OK even if you left a not so nice one) please leave a new one. :~)
www.rv-8a.4t.com
Cheers,
Stephanie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM> |
| Subject: | Altitude Blind Encoder For Sale |
0.14 FROM_NO_LOWER From address has no lower-case characters
Altitude Blind Encoder, Trans-Cal, SSD120-30A "NEW"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4570134
343&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SL30 Nav Antenna |
It hits YOU at chest level. It could hit a CHILD'S face. Unless you never
intend to let the public near your airplane.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
>
>
>my RV-6 is still in my shop at home and with tight quarters, I have been
>walking around it for months. It hits me about chest level if I were to
>walk into it. Why would this put an eye out. I see no issue other than
>someone coming along and cutting it off with a hacksaw. I like it there
>and
>it stays.
>
>my opinion only.
>Tim Bryan
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: Brian Denk
>Date: 08/21/05 16:12:39
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: SL30 Nav Antenna
>
>
>There is no reason I can think of to not put a cat whisker nav antenna
>under
>the tail on an RV taildragger. Jeff Ludwig's wonderful (and Air Venture
>cup
>winning) RV-8 had (sold it) this setup and it flew hard IFR for years
>without any problems at all. Anyone who puts this kind of antenna on the
>top of a taildragger RV vertical stab should be flogged for presenting a
>clear and present safety danger to anyone on the ground. For a nosedragger
>RV, it's OK, but taildragger, no way. I'd be looking for a hacksaw if I
>see
>one. The vision you save may be your own.
>
>My opinion only. But, show me where I'm wrong. There are no compromises
>when it comes to safety.
>
>Oh, the Archer antennas are terrific. I'm using them on my -10 when the
>time comes.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>RV10 '51
>
>
> >Paul,
> >
> >With my SL-30, I used a Commant CI-158C mounted under the belly of
> >the horizontal stabilizer.
> >
> >On the top of the vertical stabilizer, it may an "eye" poker,
> >depending on your air frame.
> >
> >Richard Reynolds, RV-6A
> >Norfolk, VA
> >
> >On Aug 20, 2005, at 9:35 AM, Paul Brown wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Listers,
> > >
> > > What antenna are you using for the SL30 Nav side. I ordered the
> > > Miller "wisker" antenna and the "hocky puck" is to big for the
> > > vertical fin. I have a tail dragger and don't want to put it under
> > > the tail.
> > >
> > > Paul
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com> |
| Subject: | Float type fuel gauge |
Hey guys,
I just bought Van's float type fuel gauge & sender assembly for my RV7A. The only
installation instructions are the MFR's which show a top mount configuration.
Has anyone out there installed this type of sender & gauge? If so, can you
share with me how you did it? I'm thinking that I just need to set the wing
on a table in the "mounted on fuse" position and bend the float arm such that
it indicates empty when it is empty (or ideally with a little reserve). I saw
not adjustments for calibrating other than positioning the float. Any feedback
would be appreciated.
Hey guys,
I just bought Van's float type fuel gauge sender
assembly for my RV7A. The only installation instructions are the MFR's
which show a top mount configuration. Has anyone out there installed this
type of sender gauge? If so, can you share with me how you did
it? I'm thinking that I just need to set the wing on a table in the
"mounted on fuse" position and bend the float arm such that it
indicates empty when it is empty (or ideally with a little reserve). I
saw not adjustments for calibrating other than positioning the float. Any
feedback would be appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SL30 Nav Antenna |
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> It hits YOU at chest level. It could hit a CHILD'S face. Unless you never
> intend to let the public near your airplane.
Ditto. In my opinion, a cat-whisker antenna above the horizontal stab is
a major no-no on a taildragger RV, primarily for the above stated
reason. Besides, it just looks ugly sticking out of the vertical stab. :-)
The cat-whiskers work very nicely under the horizontal stab and are much
less likely to inflict injury. But the Archer wingtip nav antenna works
splendidly on my RV-6 and is totally out of sight.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 690 hrs)
====================
>>
>>my RV-6 is still in my shop at home and with tight quarters, I have been
>>walking around it for months. It hits me about chest level if I were to
>>walk into it. Why would this put an eye out. I see no issue other than
>>someone coming along and cutting it off with a hacksaw. I like it there
>>and
>>it stays.
>>
>>my opinion only.
>>Tim Bryan
>>
>>-------Original Message-------
>>
>>From: Brian Denk
>>Date: 08/21/05 16:12:39
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: SL30 Nav Antenna
>>
>>
>>There is no reason I can think of to not put a cat whisker nav antenna
>>under
>>the tail on an RV taildragger. Jeff Ludwig's wonderful (and Air Venture
>>cup
>>winning) RV-8 had (sold it) this setup and it flew hard IFR for years
>>without any problems at all. Anyone who puts this kind of antenna on the
>>top of a taildragger RV vertical stab should be flogged for presenting a
>>clear and present safety danger to anyone on the ground. For a nosedragger
>>RV, it's OK, but taildragger, no way. I'd be looking for a hacksaw if I
>>see
>>one. The vision you save may be your own.
>>
>>My opinion only. But, show me where I'm wrong. There are no compromises
>>when it comes to safety.
>>
>>Oh, the Archer antennas are terrific. I'm using them on my -10 when the
>>time comes.
>>
>>Brian Denk
>>RV8 N94BD
>>RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Extending a glide |
OK, Rich this ought to be a real barn burner, but here's what I would do:
first go from full flaps to half flaps (first half mostly lift, last half
mostly drag), if you have a c/s prop, go to full coarse setting (all the way
out) in the hope that you have enough windmilling oil pressure to increase
your blade angle. If the prop stops, don't worry about it, just land
straight ahead.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Crosley, Rich
Subject: RV-List: Extending a glide
Suppose, just suppose that you're in your RV-8 on speed, full flaps turning
base to 1/2 mile final and the engine quits. You are pretty sure that you
have the runway made but you want to extend your glide as much as possible.
Do you leave the flaps where they are or do you raise them and if so how
much? Thought about this yesterday as I turned final.
Rich Crosley
RV-8 N948RC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: SL30 Nav Antenna |
What I've seen work is a small bit of plastic tubing stuck on
the end of the whisker. Makes it a bit more visible, and not
so dangerous if a child hits it with their eye.
> Well, you might have a point - but then so does my prop, wing tips, and the
> corner of my kitchen counter. I guess, being less visible I could hang a
> remove before flight" flag on there.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | SL30 Nav Antenna |
Here's the deal....I stayed out of this discussion because I didn't want to
sound biased (and due to the fact that my notes usually come across the
wrong way and get someone upset), but the fact of the matter is there is no
demonstrable reason to put cat whiskers on these RV's at all. It's been my
experience and the overall general concensous of the RV crowd is that the
Wingtip NAV antennas work just fine, as do the wingtip Mkr Beacon Antennas.
The Wingtip antennas are cheaper, drag free, and overall a cleaner
installation. I'm not knocking those who have cat whiskers, but I still
struggle to understand exactly why when there is a better alternative out
there.
I did see one post in this thread where the "wingtip antennas" were
obviously confused between the COMM and NAV installations. The ones that
aren't that great in RV's are the COMM antennas, the bent whips are far
superior in that regard - but the wingtip Nav's work just fine. Vertical
polarization (as required by the COMM antennas) is difficult within the
confines of the RV wingtips, but the horizontal polarization (as required by
the NAV's) fits great in the RV wingtips.
Anyway, that's my 2 cents for now!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Subject: Re: RV-List: SL30 Nav Antenna
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> It hits YOU at chest level. It could hit a CHILD'S face. Unless you
never
> intend to let the public near your airplane.
Ditto. In my opinion, a cat-whisker antenna above the horizontal stab is
a major no-no on a taildragger RV, primarily for the above stated
reason. Besides, it just looks ugly sticking out of the vertical stab. :-)
The cat-whiskers work very nicely under the horizontal stab and are much
less likely to inflict injury. But the Archer wingtip nav antenna works
splendidly on my RV-6 and is totally out of sight.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 690 hrs)
====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Extending a glide |
Hmmm, you want distance, which means no flaps........right? I would say no
flaps and point the nose at the edge of the airport property and decide if
you can make it by monitoring the glide/speed. If you can make the airport
property and have enough speed and alt, point the nose to the end of the
runway. Too high, slip it. Get close to the ground (100 ft?), full flaps.
What does everyone think?
>
>OK, Rich this ought to be a real barn burner, but here's what I would do:
>first go from full flaps to half flaps (first half mostly lift, last half
>mostly drag), if you have a c/s prop, go to full coarse setting (all the way
>out) in the hope that you have enough windmilling oil pressure to increase
>your blade angle. If the prop stops, don't worry about it, just land
>straight ahead.
>
>Pat Hatch
>RV-6
>RV-7
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Crosley, Rich
>To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
>Subject: RV-List: Extending a glide
>
>
>
>Suppose, just suppose that you're in your RV-8 on speed, full flaps turning
>base to 1/2 mile final and the engine quits. You are pretty sure that you
>have the runway made but you want to extend your glide as much as possible.
>Do you leave the flaps where they are or do you raise them and if so how
>much? Thought about this yesterday as I turned final.
>
>
>Rich Crosley
>RV-8 N948RC
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Extending a glide |
Rich;
It's not an 8; it's a 6A, but no matter ;-)
I'd raise flaps all the way and cut the turn inside to get to the threshold by
the shortest route. An RV flies fine without flaps at normal downwind speeds
(80-90 mph) and you can always crank in a sideslip and flaps if the above maneuver
brings you in high and hot. RV's with flaps deployed at 65 mph have nearly
the glide angle of a manhole cover. You don't usually need that in an engine-out
scenario in the pattern.
My 2 cents' worth.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Crosley, Rich <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Subject: RV-List: Extending a glide
Suppose, just suppose that you're in your RV-8 on speed, full flaps turning
base to 1/2 mile final and the engine quits. You are pretty sure that you
have the runway made but you want to extend your glide as much as possible.
Do you leave the flaps where they are or do you raise them and if so how
much? Thought about this yesterday as I turned final.
Rich Crosley
RV-8 N948RC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Extending a glide |
Rich:
not that I don't stand by my earlier post, but here's a more thought-out and concise
reply:
Know thy airplane. Experiment and practice.
>>but you want to extend your glide as much as possible.<<
I don't know of anyone who ever stretched a glide by adding flaps, but maybe your
airframe is different. Unless you've flown the test, you won't know. And
unless you've practiced the maneuver many times, the engine-out landing will be
fraught with unknown perils. Ever since learning how to do overhead approaches
to landing in my RV, they've become my preferred method at the home strip,
so much so that I really suck at conventional rectangular patterns into strips
where I don't remember the field elevation off hand. But I know that if I can
hit the "key spot" at 600-800 feet agl, whether at 200+ mph or at 90, I can
nail an overhead-to-landing without using more than idle power. To me, that's
good "insurance."
Oh, my. Did I say "concise reply"? And you believed me ;-)
-Stormy
bored at work; all the kiddos are back in school today!
-----Original Message-----
From: Crosley, Rich <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Subject: RV-List: Extending a glide
Suppose, just suppose that you're in your RV-8 on speed, full flaps turning
base to 1/2 mile final and the engine quits. You are pretty sure that you
have the runway made but you want to extend your glide as much as possible.
Do you leave the flaps where they are or do you raise them and if so how
much? Thought about this yesterday as I turned final.
Rich Crosley
RV-8 N948RC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | SL30 Nav Antenna |
Stein, others
I have tip tanks, or the wingtips modified to have the capacity for about 9
gallons of gas in each of them, built by Jon Johanson and sold by Van's. I
have always assumed that this means than I don't have any space for wingtip
antennas but since I have never actually seen an installation, maybe there
is a way. Does anyone know?
Thanks,
Terry
RV-8A #80729 finishing
Seattle
Here's the deal....I stayed out of this discussion because I didn't want to
sound biased (and due to the fact that my notes usually come across the
wrong way and get someone upset), but the fact of the matter is there is no
demonstrable reason to put cat whiskers on these RV's at all. >> snip
Cheers,
Stein.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
I flew my new Trio EZ pilot A/P with the new GPS connected for the first time yesterday,
and was that ever sweet! Kinda spooky to see invisible hands flying
your airplane for the first time in 500 hours. I'm easily impressed, but having
two brand new boxes in the cockpit with me on a test flight, I couldn't help
but be.
I'm still exploring the capabilities of the Trio, but it tracks a flight plan,
does the emergency 180, and holds a course well, and is a functional wing-leveler
even without GPS input. Installation was very straightforward and uncomplicated.
The Garmin 296 manual took all day Saturday and half the day Sunday to
pore over, but I think I am now capable of putting that unit through most of
its paces. The UPS man brought me a data cable last week for it, and a Panel
Dock form AirGizmos today, so by tonight it should be in my panel like it belongs
there, instead of dangling from a bunch of wires like yesterday ;-)
I had the EZ-Pilot follow a 90-degree turn at a flight plan waypoint, and the overshoot
to the outside of the turn was about 0.8nm at 150 mph, with a secondary
overshoot to the inside of 0.12nm before it locked onto the new heading outbound.
This is no doubt due to the 15 degree bank limiting default setting, so
I will play with the gain a bit on subsequent flights. Thanks, Sam B., for
your earlier suggestion of gain values. I plan to look them up and use them as
starting points.
-Stormy
very happy Garmin and Trio customer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | SL30 Nav Antenna |
Hi Stein,
Doesn't strike me wrong at all. I started my -6 15 years ago when I had to
wait for a kit to be developed. I installed the whisker in the VS top prior
to knowing of any options. I have taken sooooo long to build this thing and
now I am ready to get it done and flying. I am not changing anything for
this reason. I may make some changes later after it flys but not at this
point.
My airplane is set up for IFR and I reasoned at the time, I did not want to
sacrifice reception for a knot or two of antenna sticking out. These days
and with my GPS, it really isn't a factor.
Thanks for your input however and the others as well. I may stick a flag on
it for when it is parked.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 received the tail kit in 1990
Flying in about a month - two
N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: Stein Bruch
Date: 08/22/05 11:01:34
Subject: RE: RV-List: SL30 Nav Antenna
Here's the deal....I stayed out of this discussion because I didn't want to
sound biased (and due to the fact that my notes usually come across the
wrong way and get someone upset), but the fact of the matter is there is no
demonstrable reason to put cat whiskers on these RV's at all. It's been my
experience and the overall general concensous of the RV crowd is that the
Wingtip NAV antennas work just fine, as do the wingtip Mkr Beacon Antennas.
The Wingtip antennas are cheaper, drag free, and overall a cleaner
installation. I'm not knocking those who have cat whiskers, but I still
struggle to understand exactly why when there is a better alternative out
there.
I did see one post in this thread where the "wingtip antennas" were
obviously confused between the COMM and NAV installations. The ones that
aren't that great in RV's are the COMM antennas, the bent whips are far
superior in that regard - but the wingtip Nav's work just fine. Vertical
polarization (as required by the COMM antennas) is difficult within the
confines of the RV wingtips, but the horizontal polarization (as required by
the NAV's) fits great in the RV wingtips.
Anyway, that's my 2 cents for now!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Subject: Re: RV-List: SL30 Nav Antenna
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> It hits YOU at chest level. It could hit a CHILD'S face. Unless you
never
> intend to let the public near your airplane.
Ditto. In my opinion, a cat-whisker antenna above the horizontal stab is
a major no-no on a taildragger RV, primarily for the above stated
reason. Besides, it just looks ugly sticking out of the vertical stab. :-)
The cat-whiskers work very nicely under the horizontal stab and are much
less likely to inflict injury. But the Archer wingtip nav antenna works
splendidly on my RV-6 and is totally out of sight.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 690 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Free to good home: Van's fuel gauges |
Greg,
Working on an 8 Fuse right now and would like to start collecting cockpit
hardware. I take them if you have no-boby yet.
Contact me - brucerv8(at)charter.net
Bruce Gray
RV8 Fuse
>From: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Free to good home: Van's fuel gauges
>Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2005 11:52:45 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>I've got two Van's type fuel gauges that I don't need.
> Contact me off line if you're interested in springing
>for the postage of about $5-$10.
>
>Greg in Honolulu
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SL30 Nav Antenna |
Hi Ron, that nav antenna is the Bob Archer model we installed with the 430.
I am doing the same on our 7A & 10.
Take care.
Doug
RV7 N731RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Extending a glide |
refid=0001.0A090203.430A2F86.0024-B-E41Z/xXvy0umUMl9fvtv7w==,
ip 9.107.238.85,
so 05-07-14 09:05:58,
dmn 05-05-20 17:56:59
Crosley, Rich wrote:
>
>Suppose, just suppose that you're in your RV-8 on speed, full flaps turning
>base to 1/2 mile final and the engine quits. You are pretty sure that you
>have the runway made but you want to extend your glide as much as possible.
>Do you leave the flaps where they are or do you raise them and if so how
>much? Thought about this yesterday as I turned final.
>
>
>Rich Crosley
>RV-8 N948RC
>
>
Wow..... what a question.... This is going to get some good answers I
bet... Read them all and come up with a good procedure for your self.
So far we are all hitting close to the same....
Here's my two cents worth. It is virtually the same as the others. At a
half mile out and turning base, you are probably not too bad off in the
first place if you are still nearly at pattern altitude.. Like one
poster said, turn at that time toward the end of the runway.
I would lift all flaps and drop the nose, you may have to grit your
teeth to do it, but dont try to extend the glide by slowing down. With
the plane now cleaned up, I would aim short of the runway in order to
pick up some extra speed while I still had the altitude to do it. If all
went well, you may have to bleed off some speed and alt with flaps,
slips and/or both.
Good question to keep us all awake...
Phil in Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Congratulations on the new toys, Stormy! Sounds like your EZ-Pilot and
Garmin are doing their stuff as designed.
Try gain settings of "2" and "1". This works well with my RV-6. If you
want a more aggressive turn-in to a new course, you can set the bank
angle to "standard rate" (I'm assuming the software hasn't changed since
I last set my unit); however, this results in a substantial bank at RV
cruise speeds and was more sporty than I wanted to see if I was using
the unit in clouds. I have mine set where the shallow bank angle
transitions to standard rate below 105 kts. Someone who routinely flies
the unit in IFR opps might want a little higher threshold so ATC will
see the turn rates they expect. The programmability of the EZ-Pilot is
really cool!
August 13, 2005 - August 22, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-re