RV-Archive.digest.vol-rg
September 03, 2005 - September 20, 2005
>
> BTW, the top rear plugs have always been tricky to replace due to the
> proximity of the baffles. I've found a 7/8" socket that is just the right
> depth to grab the plug but short enough to fit. And after replacing the
> Champions with Unison, I come to discover that the Unison's barrel is about
> 1/2" LONGER than the Champion, requiring a longer socket that doesn't fit
> inside the baffle. Argh.
Ed, on my O-320 I use a 7/8" box-end wrench for the top plugs. If you
are careful not to hit the pushrod tubes with the wrench it works very well.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: legal question - another but maybe not legal question |
You may want to find out if you'd have to pay sales tax for the transfer
if you do it after the initial registration.
I've heard of some states doing that.
JT
>
> I have been meaning to ask this question, but seems now is a good time.
> I
> have an RV-6 almost ready to fly. Taking to the airport on Monday. I
> have
> registered the airplane in my name but now want to transfer it into a
> corporation I set up.
>
> What are the consequences of transfering either before the airworthiness
> or
> after? I would prefer to transfer now, but how might this affect the
> process? Will I still be able to get the repairmans certificate?
>
> Anyone that could help with these questions, would be appreciated.
>
> Tim
> RV-6 N616TB
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: flynlow
> Date: 09/03/05 07:23:59
> To: Rv-List@Matronics. Com
> Subject: RV-List: legal question
> ]\
>
>
> Do we have any attorneys on this list that could answer a question for me
> regarding liability and the sale of a homebuilt airplane? Please contact
> me
> off list if you can give me some advice.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Bud Silvers
> Black Forest, Colorado
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Ed Holyoke ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Ed Holyoke
Lists: RV-List
Subject: Archer com antenna in new style wingtip
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/bicyclop@pacbell.net.09.03.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 396 Problem |
Howdy,
I wrote about my new Garmin 396 recently. Being a fan of both XM and Garmin
I regret having to report on my experience, today, with the fruit of their
labors.
I was enroute to Dallas checking the weather and listening to tunes from my
396 when it appeared to do some kind of reset. I happened to have the XM
audio screen up and the signal strength bars went to zero briefly and all
the audio channel listings disappeared, except for the 2 non-subscription
ones. At this point I still had the weather products. In the spirit of
experimentation I turned the unit off then back on at which point all the
weather products were gone also.
Upon arrival in Dallas I called the subscription number displayed on the
audio screen of the 396. Apparently this number is not for aviation units
and after some waiting the representative gave me another, toll number.
This number was for WxWorx who is closed for the long weekend and, I am
quite sure, have nothing to do with the issue I was experiencing. I didn't
have the number I originally, and at great difficulty, subscribed with.
Finally I hit on the idea of going back in my cell phone calls to find a
likely one. That worked, and I got hold of the correct section of Garmin to
reactivate my unit, but Garmin "is upgrading their computer system this
weekend" and "is unable to access my files." When I got home I used the
Garmin webpage that is for "refreshing" a unit. That didn't work either.
The upshot is I'm paying about $55.00 a month for a safety of flight related
service that abruptly is terminated in flight and they can't even do
anything about it on the ground. No, I'm not too happy about it.
I had read, on the internet, about some pilots experiencing deactivation of
their 396 weather when the airplane and unit were inactive for quite a
while. I got the thing only a week ago and the apparent deactivation
occured while I was using it.
I'm supposed to call THEM on tuesday to try again to get the service I have
prepaid for and yes, they said they would credit me for the time without the
service. Big woop!
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Cleaning the wing quick drains |
There is a guy at Meadow Lake who is a whiz at fabricating things.
One such item is a small rechargeable compressed air can that is
filled using a normal tire chuck. At the top he made a fitting that
will fit in the drain activating hole.
A quickie upthrust to release a small puff of air (I did it twice on my
drains) and a slow leak was fixed. Apparently a small piece of crud
was lodged somewhere which prevented proper sealing of the drain.
Of course I opened the gas cap just in case.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000(at)deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning the wing quick drains |
Ron Lee wrote:
> A quickie upthrust to release a small puff of air (I did it twice on my
> drains) and a slow leak was fixed. Apparently a small piece of crud
> was lodged somewhere which prevented proper sealing of the drain.
Unless you develop a leak someplace other than home base, my
opinion is it is better to remove the crud from the tank...
I have had chronic issues with those stupid drains since day one.
Every time they get jammed up, I remove them, spill gas all over
myself and clean the valve. My hope is that whatever crud happens
to be in that part of the tank will come out with the gas.
It is really scary what comes out of the tanks, especially after
I thought I had cleaned them up before closing the rear baffle.
Metal chips, sand, little black flecks of proseal. Last time
I had a little hairy maroon fuzzball caught in the drain that was
once part of a Scotchbrite pad (probably the one used to clean the
tanks in the first place...). Usually the crud gets stuck in the
O-ring when the drain closes; it might be difficult for a puff
of air to dislodge it.
I have been tempted to put a small brass ball valve in the tank,
then screw the drain into that. That way I could turn off the
flow to clean the drain when necessary. If they had a self-locking
ball valve, you could do completely away with the drains and bigger
chunks of crud would not be an issue.
--
- Tim Coldenhoff
RV-9a N194TC - Flying!
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Need 7A steps instructions |
Does anyone have the instructions for the steps installation for an RV7A.
The darned things have been sitting around the workshop since I ordered them
too early in the build process and ow I'm at the point where they need to be
fully installed and, of course, I can't find them. I'm sure I put them
someplace safe in a misguided moment of organization.
If you have them, can copy them, and snailmail them to me, I'd appreciate if
you could contact me off-list at bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net.
Thanks
Bob
St. Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need 7A steps instructions |
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/step_instructions.pdf
(sent to on-list so others will know where to find it)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (pinhole filling heaven)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Need 7A steps instructions
>
> Does anyone have the instructions for the steps installation for an RV7A.
> The darned things have been sitting around the workshop since I ordered
them
> too early in the build process and ow I'm at the point where they need to
be
> fully installed and, of course, I can't find them. I'm sure I put them
> someplace safe in a misguided moment of organization.
>
> If you have them, can copy them, and snailmail them to me, I'd appreciate
if
> you could contact me off-list at bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net.
>
> Thanks
> Bob
> St. Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Need 7A steps instructions |
Bob
Go to the van's web sight and then click constructions facts and questions
you will find them.
Frank @ SGU and SLC fuse ...finish on the way
>From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Need 7A steps instructions
>Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2005 13:08:04 -0500
>
>
>Does anyone have the instructions for the steps installation for an RV7A.
>The darned things have been sitting around the workshop since I ordered
>them
>too early in the build process and ow I'm at the point where they need to
>be
>fully installed and, of course, I can't find them. I'm sure I put them
>someplace safe in a misguided moment of organization.
>
>If you have them, can copy them, and snailmail them to me, I'd appreciate
>if
>you could contact me off-list at bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net.
>
>Thanks
>Bob
>St. Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need 7A steps instructions |
Here you go Bob... attached pdf file
Bob Collins wrote:
Does anyone have the instructions for the steps installation for an RV7A.
The darned things have been sitting around the workshop since I ordered them
too early in the build process and ow I'm at the point where they need to be
fully installed and, of course, I can't find them. I'm sure I put them
someplace safe in a misguided moment of organization.
If you have them, can copy them, and snailmail them to me, I'd appreciate if
you could contact me off-list at bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net.
Thanks
Bob
St. Paul
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning the wing quick drains |
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> If the seal/O-ring is suspect, you can also buy new ones for a whopping 18
> cents each, MS29513-006 from Spruce. I carry a spare in my tool bag just in
> case. Haven't had to use it (yet?).
Another item to throw into the tool bag is an 1/8" NPT pipe plug. This
is to plug the hole in the tank while you are sitting on the ramp
replacing the o-ring. :-)
Actually, in addition to the plug, I carry a spare drain valve. I have
had a couple of occasions to repair the valve away from home due to the
o-ring leaking. There is a higher priced o-ring that is the
"certificated" part because it is more resistant to avgas, but I just
use the cheapies Dan described since they are so easy to replace.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Pete,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & DAve Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Remembering
>Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2005 13:21:40 EDT
>
>
>It was five years ago almost to the day that I started my RV-6 and first
>posted to this list -- some question about slider versus tip-up. Many of
>you were
>kind in your responses and I grew to ask the list often during my building.
>
>N215PH flew for the first time yesterday. She flies hands off, rock solid
>and straight as an arrow. WOW! I just can't believe it. My thanks to all
>of
>you who have responded to my questions and made recommendations. Your help
>has
>been invaluable.
>
>Pete Hunt, Clearwater, FL
>RV-6, all electric panel, VFR/IFR
>O-360-A1A, CS prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob" <rpgross(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Misc RV stuff for sale.. |
Hi all,
Need to clean out the hanger and get rid of this stuff...
2 each Matronics Governor III new in box $30 each
2 1/4" g meter. Mint cond $125
AV-MIX engine leaning device. TSO'd for many certified aircraft new cond
$120
Terra 760 Comm, yellow tagged $400
Vans RV-6 electric flap conversion kit New $500 from vans, $250
Vans wood stick grip with coolie hat, new $50
Gretz aero electric trim conversion cable kit for RV-6, new $40
Coming soon , an almost new Christen 801 inverted oil system. Used .9 hours
total. includes all the expensive fittings/hoses. $700
Wanted Dynon aor BMA G3 unit.
Warmest Regards,
Bob
For the latest F1 Rocket/Synthetic Vision progress, click here...
www.F1-RocketBoy.com <http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/>
-----Disclaimer---------
The contents of this E-mail (including contents of enclosure/(s) or
attachment/(s) if any are privileged & confidential material of Innovative
Aviation Systems Inc. or RocketBoy Aircraft Products Inc. and should not be
disclosed to, used by, or copied in any manner by anyone other than intended
addressee/(s).If this E-mail (including enclosure/(s) or attachment/(s) if
any has been received in error, please advise sender immediately and delete
it from your system. The views expressed in this E-mail message (including
enclosure/(s) or attachment/(s) if any are those of the individual sender.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 7A Project For Sale |
Sounds like you are close to being finished. I have no proof but
will assert that a flying 7A is worth far more than a project. If you
are close I would suggest completing it and find someone to fly off
the hours then sell it.
Ron Lee
>My doctor, (who is a ME but not my ME) has suggested that if I wish to
>continue flying I should be thinking LSA not RV7A. If that should prove to
>be
>true, and I'll know next month, how do you sell an incomplete project?
>How is an
>incomplete project valued?
>What are the pitfalls? I would appreciate any advice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Misc RV stuff for sale.. |
Bob wrote:
>
>Hi all,
>
>Need to clean out the hanger and get rid of this stuff...
>
>2 each Matronics Governor III new in box $30 each
>
>2 1/4" g meter. Mint cond $125
>
>AV-MIX engine leaning device. TSO'd for many certified aircraft new cond
>$120
>
>Terra 760 Comm, yellow tagged $400
>
>Vans RV-6 electric flap conversion kit New $500 from vans, $250
>
>Vans wood stick grip with coolie hat, new $50
>
>Gretz aero electric trim conversion cable kit for RV-6, new $40
>
>
>Coming soon , an almost new Christen 801 inverted oil system. Used .9 hours
>total. includes all the expensive fittings/hoses. $700
>
>
>Wanted Dynon aor BMA G3 unit.
>
>
>Warmest Regards,
>
>Bob
>
I'll take the g meter, & will let you know if there's anything else.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Misc RV stuff for sale.. |
I'd buy the G meter if it's available. Thanks,
Jim Bowen
>From: "Bob" <rpgross(at)bellsouth.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Misc RV stuff for sale..
>Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2005 08:03:04 -0400
>
>
>Hi all,
>
>Need to clean out the hanger and get rid of this stuff...
>
>2 each Matronics Governor III new in box $30 each
>
>2 1/4" g meter. Mint cond $125
>
>AV-MIX engine leaning device. TSO'd for many certified aircraft new cond
>$120
>
>Terra 760 Comm, yellow tagged $400
>
>Vans RV-6 electric flap conversion kit New $500 from vans, $250
>
>Vans wood stick grip with coolie hat, new $50
>
>Gretz aero electric trim conversion cable kit for RV-6, new $40
>
>
>Coming soon , an almost new Christen 801 inverted oil system. Used .9 hours
>total. includes all the expensive fittings/hoses. $700
>
>
>Wanted Dynon aor BMA G3 unit.
>
>
>Warmest Regards,
>
>Bob
>For the latest F1 Rocket/Synthetic Vision progress, click here...
>www.F1-RocketBoy.com <http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/>
>
>-----Disclaimer---------
>The contents of this E-mail (including contents of enclosure/(s) or
>attachment/(s) if any are privileged & confidential material of Innovative
>Aviation Systems Inc. or RocketBoy Aircraft Products Inc. and should not be
>disclosed to, used by, or copied in any manner by anyone other than
>intended
>addressee/(s).If this E-mail (including enclosure/(s) or attachment/(s) if
>any has been received in error, please advise sender immediately and delete
>it from your system. The views expressed in this E-mail message (including
>enclosure/(s) or attachment/(s) if any are those of the individual sender.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Troy Hartman" <birdtrick(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Will buy imperfect RV4 canopy |
I am looking for a used RV4 canopy that doesn't need to be in perfect shape.
If you messed yours up cutting it, let me know!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | 7A Project For Sale |
I believe if you know of a medical condition that would be disqualifying,
you can't fly anywhere under any circumstances as PIC. However, you can
still fly.
Anyway, the whole LSA thing just blows me away. To me it's the aviation
equivalent of "don't ask-don't tell"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Morrow
Subject: Re: RV-List: 7A Project For Sale
If you are in danger of not passing your next medical, consider this. As I
understand it, you can fly under LSA without a medical certificate.
However if you have failed a medical, you cannot fly LSA until you get the
medical cleared. You could check with the EAA to see if this is correct.
It's bizarre, but apparently if you skip your next medical exam, you can
fly LSA no matter what your medical condition is if you think it is safe to
do so.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Trainnut01(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: 7A Project For Sale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net> |
Well after 2 weeks short of three years my 8A took to the sky's on 9/2/05, flew
staight and true just as they said it would. Need to fix high oil temps though.
I have an IO360 with stock seven row cooler, I am wondering if a 9 row would
be better. OAT was not that high 78, but oil was still 235 to 240 in cruise.
Cooler is mounted on baffles, would it be better on the firewall? Second
flight OAT was 60 and oil was 205 to 225, worried about next summer, so I would
like to get them down now, before some damage occurs. Thanks to anyone with
some ideas. Mark Rose N137MR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
Hi,
Congrats first of all. Is this a new engine? I found on the RV7 with FF kit
and baffle mounted cooler with new O-360 taht the temp was a tad high on teh
first flight. Kept ground running down on subsequent flights and the temp
eventually stabilised around 170F.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net>
Subject: RV-List:
>
> Well after 2 weeks short of three years my 8A took to the sky's on 9/2/05,
> flew staight and true just as they said it would. Need to fix high oil
> temps though. I have an IO360 with stock seven row cooler, I am wondering
> if a 9 row would be better. OAT was not that high 78, but oil was still
> 235 to 240 in cruise. Cooler is mounted on baffles, would it be better on
> the firewall? Second flight OAT was 60 and oil was 205 to 225, worried
> about next summer, so I would like to get them down now, before some
> damage occurs. Thanks to anyone with some ideas. Mark Rose N137MR.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 9/5/2005 2:33:02 PM Pacific Standard Time,
av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net writes:
Well after 2 weeks short of three years my 8A took to the sky's on 9/2/05,
flew staight and true just as they said it would. Need to fix high oil temps
though. I have an IO360 with stock seven row cooler, I am wondering if a 9
row would be better. OAT was not that high 78, but oil was still 235 to 240
in cruise. Cooler is mounted on baffles, would it be better on the firewall?
Second flight OAT was 60 and oil was 205 to 225, worried about next summer,
so I would like to get them down now, before
First, congratulations on a successful first flight. FWIW I have a seven
row Aero Classic cooler mounted on the left rear baffle of my 0-360 (RV-6) and
the problem I have is getting the oil temp up. The highest I get with OAT in
the 90 F range is low 180 degrees F. With lower OAT I have to install a
plate on the back of the cooler to get the temp into the 160 F. range. All this
is to say that a seven row cooler should be adequate if mounted on the rear
baffle and the baffles are well sealed. Mounting the cooler on the firewall
with presumably 3" SCAT tubing to get the air to it from the baffle will most
likely make your problem worse. Do make sure that you are using # 8 hoses
and keep them as short as possible
Oh yeah, I have tested my oil temp probe in boiling water and it is
accurate.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 125 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
Mark,
The Stewart Warner replacement for the Van's stock cooler has helped many with
temp issues. Remember if you engine is New or Reman you will experience higher
temps during your break in. Congratulations on the first flight! I would fly
on and put a little more time on the engine. Flight early when it's cool, you'll
be fine.
Darrell
Mark Rose wrote:
Well after 2 weeks short of three years my 8A took to the sky's on 9/2/05, flew
staight and true just as they said it would. Need to fix high oil temps though.
I have an IO360 with stock seven row cooler, I am wondering if a 9 row would
be better. OAT was not that high 78, but oil was still 235 to 240 in cruise.
Cooler is mounted on baffles, would it be better on the firewall? Second flight
OAT was 60 and oil was 205 to 225, worried about next summer, so I would like
to get them down now, before some damage occurs. Thanks to anyone with some
ideas. Mark Rose N137MR.
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
To the original problem of 240 degree high oil temps, consider the problem
possibly being in the vernatherm valve. Sounds like it could be not
functioning to let oil circulate through the oil cooler. It can be adjusted
to let oil flow -- Search the archives on how to do this. It can be tested
for accuracy. It should open around 180-190 degrees
Is the oil cooler known not to be blocked in any way (also hoses and end
fittings) to keep oil from moving through it? I agree with Harry that
moving the cooler to the firewall will not improve the cooling function. I
suspect the problem will not be solved by adding two rows to the cooler with
the temps you are showing but it would help it some no doubt if oil is
flowing. Are you sure your oil temp gauge is right by testing? Are your
CHTs doing ok? If not that could mean you might look closely at the baffle
and seals for air leaks.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up Flying 60 Hours
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List:
>
>
> In a message dated 9/5/2005 2:33:02 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net writes:
>
> Well after 2 weeks short of three years my 8A took to the sky's on
> 9/2/05,
> flew staight and true just as they said it would. Need to fix high oil
> temps
> though. I have an IO360 with stock seven row cooler, I am wondering if a
> 9
> row would be better. OAT was not that high 78, but oil was still 235 to
> 240
> in cruise. Cooler is mounted on baffles, would it be better on the
> firewall?
> Second flight OAT was 60 and oil was 205 to 225, worried about next
> summer,
> so I would like to get them down now, before
>
>
> First, congratulations on a successful first flight. FWIW I have a seven
> row Aero Classic cooler mounted on the left rear baffle of my 0-360 (RV-6)
> and
> the problem I have is getting the oil temp up. The highest I get with
> OAT in
> the 90 F range is low 180 degrees F. With lower OAT I have to install a
> plate on the back of the cooler to get the temp into the 160 F. range.
> All this
> is to say that a seven row cooler should be adequate if mounted on the
> rear
> baffle and the baffles are well sealed. Mounting the cooler on the
> firewall
> with presumably 3" SCAT tubing to get the air to it from the baffle will
> most
> likely make your problem worse. Do make sure that you are using # 8
> hoses
> and keep them as short as possible
>
> Oh yeah, I have tested my oil temp probe in boiling water and it is
> accurate.
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6 N16CX, 125 hours
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlyinJon(at)aol.com |
paul.schaetzel(at)lmco.com, ron(at)dynonavionics.com, fletch(at)bak.rr.com,
patti(at)oregontrail.net, STEVE65GT(at)aol.com
email address change. John Lauer, flyinjon(at)cox.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 7A Project For Sale |
SO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: 7A Project For Sale
>
> I believe if you know of a medical condition that would be disqualifying,
> you can't fly anywhere under any circumstances as PIC. However, you can
> still fly.
>
> Anyway, the whole LSA thing just blows me away. To me it's the aviation
> equivalent of "don't ask-don't tell"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Morrow
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: 7A Project For Sale
>
>
> If you are in danger of not passing your next medical, consider this. As
> I
> understand it, you can fly under LSA without a medical certificate.
> However if you have failed a medical, you cannot fly LSA until you get
> the
> medical cleared. You could check with the EAA to see if this is correct.
> It's bizarre, but apparently if you skip your next medical exam, you can
> fly LSA no matter what your medical condition is if you think it is safe
> to
> do so.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Trainnut01(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: 7A Project For Sale
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List:
>
> To the original problem of 240 degree high oil temps, consider the problem
> possibly being in the vernatherm valve. Sounds like it could be not
> functioning to let oil circulate through the oil cooler. It can be
> adjusted
> to let oil flow -- Search the archives on how to do this. It can be
> tested
> for accuracy. It should open around 180-190 degrees
>
> Is the oil cooler known not to be blocked in any way (also hoses and end
> fittings) to keep oil from moving through it? I agree with Harry that
> moving the cooler to the firewall will not improve the cooling function.
> I
> suspect the problem will not be solved by adding two rows to the cooler
> with
> the temps you are showing but it would help it some no doubt if oil is
> flowing. Are you sure your oil temp gauge is right by testing? Are your
> CHTs doing ok? If not that could mean you might look closely at the
> baffle
> and seals for air leaks.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up Flying 60 Hours
>
High temperatures are often a problem with new engines. On mine, the
temperatures ran as high as 220F in cruise for the first 100 hours. In the
end, the solution was three or fourfold...
1) Engine break-in. Probably good for10+ degrees.
2) Switched away from the original (now corrected) version of Positech's oil
cooler. Probably good for another 5 degrees.
3) Enlarged the oil cooler hole in my baffles to probably 2x its original
size. Good for another 15 degrees.
4) Added a cool collar with a shroud. Essentially a heat sink around the oil
filter. Marginal improvement.
In addition, I checked the vernatherm (no problem there), checked the hoses
and cooler for obstructions, verified the oil temp sender and gauge's
accuracy, etc. No problems there either.
One thing I will ask is if anyone on the list has personally experienced a
defective vernatherm? This is an often suggested item when people have oil
temperature problems, but I'm not aware of any first person stories where
someone had one that went bad.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
You said IO-360. Is that the angle valve engine? If so, those engines
have little nozzles that spray oil on the underside of the pistons
adding to oil temp. If that is part of the cause, extra cooler capacity
may well help.
Good luck,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Rose
Subject: RV-List:
Well after 2 weeks short of three years my 8A took to the sky's on
9/2/05, flew staight and true just as they said it would. Need to fix
high oil temps though. I have an IO360 with stock seven row cooler, I
am wondering if a 9 row would be better. OAT was not that high 78, but
oil was still 235 to 240 in cruise. Cooler is mounted on baffles, would
it be better on the firewall? Second flight OAT was 60 and oil was 205
to 225, worried about next summer, so I would like to get them down now,
before some damage occurs. Thanks to anyone with some ideas. Mark
Rose N137MR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Misc RV stuff for sale.. |
Hi,bob I'll take the av-mix and a governer III, contact me for payment
preference
Steve dinieri
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
716.579.5790
-----Original Messence-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Subject: RV-List: Misc RV stuff for sale..
Hi all,
Need to clean out the hanger and get rid of this stuff...
2 each Matronics Governor III new in box $30 each
2 1/4" g meter. Mint cond $125
AV-MIX engine leaning device. TSO'd for many certified aircraft new cond
$120
Terra 760 Comm, yellow tagged $400
Vans RV-6 electric flap conversion kit New $500 from vans, $250
Vans wood stick grip with coolie hat, new $50
Gretz aero electric trim conversion cable kit for RV-6, new $40
Coming soon , an almost new Christen 801 inverted oil system. Used .9 hours
total. includes all the expensive fittings/hoses. $700
Wanted Dynon aor BMA G3 unit.
Warmest Regards,
Bob
For the latest F1 Rocket/Synthetic Vision progress, click here...
www.F1-RocketBoy.com <http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/>
-----Disclaimer---------
The contents of this E-mail (including contents of enclosure/(s) or
attachment/(s) if any are privileged & confidential material of Innovative
Aviation Systems Inc. or RocketBoy Aircraft Products Inc. and should not be
disclosed to, used by, or copied in any manner by anyone other than intended
addressee/(s).If this E-mail (including enclosure/(s) or attachment/(s) if
any has been received in error, please advise sender immediately and delete
it from your system. The views expressed in this E-mail message (including
enclosure/(s) or attachment/(s) if any are those of the individual sender.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
Dear Mark,
Use a 9 or 10 row Niagara cooler mounted at a 25 degree tilt down on the
baffle behind cyl #4. I have ll80 hours with this set up , 946 with a IO
360 (10-1) pistons etc and 240 hours with my new IO 390 Lyc. No oil temp
problems in any temperature, including the Air Venture races using 100 %
power for over 2 hours at 95 degree outside temps. Note, when making the
mounting bracket to tilt the cooler use 040 4130. I tried aluminum first
and it kept on cracking. Good luck.
Dick Martin
N233M RV8
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net>
Subject: RV-List:
>
> Well after 2 weeks short of three years my 8A took to the sky's on 9/2/05,
> flew staight and true just as they said it would. Need to fix high oil
> temps though. I have an IO360 with stock seven row cooler, I am wondering
> if a 9 row would be better. OAT was not that high 78, but oil was still
> 235 to 240 in cruise. Cooler is mounted on baffles, would it be better on
> the firewall? Second flight OAT was 60 and oil was 205 to 225, worried
> about next summer, so I would like to get them down now, before some
> damage occurs. Thanks to anyone with some ideas. Mark Rose N137MR.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
I spent countless of hours working on getting my oil temps in check on my
io360. I switched my baffle material to the blue silicone and spent a lot
of time making absolutely certain there were NO leaks. I also switched to a
10 row cooler on the baffle. I wouldnt put it on the firewall. Thats where
mine was originally. You have to go step by step and keep eliminating
possible causes. You'll get it eventually.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net>
Subject: RV-List:
>
> Well after 2 weeks short of three years my 8A took to the sky's on 9/2/05,
> flew staight and true just as they said it would. Need to fix high oil
> temps though. I have an IO360 with stock seven row cooler, I am wondering
> if a 9 row would be better. OAT was not that high 78, but oil was still
> 235 to 240 in cruise. Cooler is mounted on baffles, would it be better on
> the firewall? Second flight OAT was 60 and oil was 205 to 225, worried
> about next summer, so I would like to get them down now, before some
> damage occurs. Thanks to anyone with some ideas. Mark Rose N137MR.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Wing Skin Bevel Revisited |
I'm doing final prep on my top wing skins prior to riveting. The
directions from Van's tell me to bevel the skins to create a somewhat
smoother transition. I can use a file and sanding block to do it that
way.
But I seem to recall there were alternative methods that some folks
have suggested -- instead of beveling. I haven't been able to find the
references. Am I just confused?
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Concrete tie down anchor solution |
Listers,
You may recall I asked for some input on how to set some tie down anchors
into new concrete at my new airpark house.
Well, here it is. I used plated eyehooks from Home Depot, with fender
washers nutted on the shanks. These were then popped into emptied plastic
fruit cups to serve as a male mold for the recess around the rings. The
builder just pressed these into place after floating the concrete. Worked
great.
Patent pending. Heh.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Concrete tie down anchor solution |
In a message dated 9/5/2005 8:23:40 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
I used plated eyehooks from Home Depot, with fender
washers nutted on the shanks. These were then popped into emptied plastic
fruit cups to serve as a male mold for the recess around the rings. The
builder just pressed these into place after floating the concrete. Worked
great.
==============================
Brian-
Did you go with stainless steel, so they will last forever?
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | 7A Project For Sale |
On 23:17:33 2005-09-05 "Paul Besing" wrote:
> You are correct. Don't let your medical get denied, or you won't get
> a Sport Pilot Certificate. Just let it lapse. All you need for the
> sport pilot cert is a current driver's license! (Of course many other
> requirement, but as far as a medical is concerned.)
Once you've got a Private Pilot's License, why would you ever let it lapse
and replace it with a Sport Pilot Permit? The only reason I can think of
that someone would do this is because they were in danger of not passing
their medical.
I find it hard to believe that the FAA won't be watching for just this kind
of "workaround" to failing a medical, or to avoid failing a medical.
Is there some other legitimate reason that i'm missing for wanting to
demote yourself to Sport Pilot from Private Pilot? It seems like a losing
proposition to me.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Wing Skin Bevel Revisited |
Joe;
A common alternative to "bevelling" the skins is to cut a small rectangle in
the underlying skin at the forward edge where it rests on the spar. Scribe a
line when the top skin rests on the underlying skins and measure back abt
1" and round the corner for stress relief. This allows the top skin to butt
against the underlying skin to avoid a bulge at the spar. The top skin then
smoothly comes to lie on top of the other skin and the usual overlap joint
results further aft.
A similar arrangement can be done at the aft spar to get a butt joint vice a
lapped joint where the top skin hangs over the flap.
I'll attach a photo showing a trimmed inner skin - sorry do not have a good
final one.
This was on an RV-6A slow build, BTW.
Cheers, Jim Oke
Wpg., MB
RV-6A
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joe Larson
> Sent: September 5, 2005 10:01 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wing Skin Bevel Revisited
>
>
> I'm doing final prep on my top wing skins prior to riveting.
> The directions from Van's tell me to bevel the skins to
> create a somewhat smoother transition. I can use a file and
> sanding block to do it that way.
>
> But I seem to recall there were alternative methods that some
> folks have suggested -- instead of beveling. I haven't been
> able to find the references. Am I just confused?
>
> -Joe
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Concrete tie down anchor solution |
>
>I used plated eyehooks from Home Depot, with fender
>washers nutted on the shanks. These were then popped into emptied plastic
>fruit cups to serve as a male mold for the recess around the rings. The
>builder just pressed these into place after floating the concrete. Worked
>great.
>
>
>==============================
>
>Brian-
>
>Did you go with stainless steel, so they will last forever?
>
>GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
They're plated steel. I live in New Mexico. Nothing rusts here.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Bevel Revisited |
I would not bevel on my next plane. as far as I know it is only cosmetic
Joe Larson wrote:
>
>I'm doing final prep on my top wing skins prior to riveting. The
>directions from Van's tell me to bevel the skins to create a somewhat
>smoother transition. I can use a file and sanding block to do it that
>way.
>
>But I seem to recall there were alternative methods that some folks
>have suggested -- instead of beveling. I haven't been able to find the
>references. Am I just confused?
>
>-Joe
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transition training |
I would highly recommend Mike Seager in Oregon. He is good about replying but may
be on trip now. I was there a couple of weeks ago and he said he was going
to New York for a fly in soon. There is a hotel on the field in Scappoose OR that
is very reasonable, keeping the cost down.
Without question you will get your money's worth with Mike. He is a fantastic instructor
and utilizes every minute of time.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
Well after 2 weeks short of three years my 8A took to the sky's on 9/2/05,
flew staight and true just as they said it would. Need to fix high oil temps
though. I have an IO360 with stock seven row cooler, I am wondering if a
9
row would be better. OAT was not that high 78, but oil was still 235 to
240
in cruise. Cooler is mounted on baffles, would it be better on the firewall?
Congrats on the first flight. I hope to experience this in a month or so.
All this
is to say that a seven row cooler should be adequate if mounted on the rear
baffle and the baffles are well sealed. Mounting the cooler on the firewall
with presumably 3" SCAT tubing to get the air to it from the baffle will
most
likely make your problem worse.
Harry,
Just curious if you have some imperical evidence that a firewall mounted cooler
will cause higher temps? My neigbor has an 8 that he originally mounted the cooler
on the baffles. After experiencing some temp issues he moved it to the firewall
with 3" SCAT tubing. Now everything is fine in the high AZ temps.
I followed his lead and mounted my oil cooler on the firewall. I have the Stewart
Warner 8432R dual pass cooler and have it mounted with 3" SCAT. This should
work great with 25% more cooling area than his. I'm also making a low pressure
ramp on the exit hole of the cowl to assist in removing air.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transition training |
Steve, After I replied to you, I read this on the RV list. This could be
sooner and there is nothing but good remarks about Seager and his RV
training. This would also make you a nice mini vacation, not too far away...
I hope to have mine back in the air this month so I can attend some
fly-in's before cold weather hits.. Come see us up here when you do get
flying. Warren Grote has a RV6 and he is from St. Charles. He comes up a
lot as well as lots of the guys from Alton EAA chapter...
I have been out in near KC for several days with a terminally ill son in
law, so I missed a lot of email stuff..
Phil
>
>Getting closeo inform everyone that we are having again this year our EAA Chapter
863
>Fall Classic RV Fly-in on Sept 17th at (M54) Lebanon,Tn
>20 miles east of Nashville,Tn.Mike Seager will be there for RV
>instruction the 16th17th and 18th.
>There will be aircraft judging and food etc..For instruction time slots
>call me at home and I will set you up..
> John McMahon (RV6 863JJ)
>
> 615-452-8742
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Manual trim cable attachment at aft end |
I was playing with the elevators and the manual trim cable this weekend. I
was trying to figure out how the aft end of the trim cable gets secured when
I found the nut welded to a small steel plate in the manual trim hardware
bag. I can only assume that this somehow gets attached to the access cover
which then holds the cable in place.
Questions:
- Are there seperate manual trim instructions somewhere? I can find no
reference in the instructions and the plans only have a small picture of
this that I could find.
- Did you just rivet this nut/steel plate to the access cover? Seems that if
you did it this way it would be a challenge to 'turn' the access cover/nut
onto the trim cable. (I positioned my manual trim cable higher on a center
post, so I have no slack to pull it out farther.)
I'm thinking a nutplate on the back side of the steel plate to attach it to
the access cover. That would allow you to remove the access cover without
removing the trim cable and such.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wiring)
#90569
<http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Bevel Revisited |
I didn't bevel mine and have no regrets. You can barely tell the
difference anyway.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Joe Larson wrote:
>
>I'm doing final prep on my top wing skins prior to riveting. The
>directions from Van's tell me to bevel the skins to create a somewhat
>smoother transition. I can use a file and sanding block to do it that
>way.
>
>But I seem to recall there were alternative methods that some folks
>have suggested -- instead of beveling. I haven't been able to find the
>references. Am I just confused?
>
>-Joe
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jamie Painter <jamie(at)jpainter.org> |
| Subject: | FS: Manual elevator trim cable |
For Sale:
Brand new, never before used manual trim cable for RV-7/7A, RV-9/9A (and
possibly -6/6A).
Van's lists the price at $79.50. Will sell for $50.00 + shipping.
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Reducing cylinder head and oil temps |
My O-360 RV-6A has had problems with high CHT and oil temps.
On on flight within minutes of take-off the CHT indicator started
blinking prior to redline. On another flight during climb out the oil
temp temporarily went past redline so I cancelled the trip to
Leadville and went home.
That was the last straw and another smart guy came over to examine
my engine installation. He noted the excessive number of tubes to
gather cabin heat from BOTH exhausts. I removed all those tubes
and afterwards was able to maintain full power climb to 11,500' and
never exceed CHT limits. Oil temps were better but still high.
So now realizing that factors affecting the exiting air side of the cowl
was important I enlarged the bottom cowl opening around the exhausts.
That also helped.
Finally, I added louvers to the cowl bottom and this morning flew the
standard climb to 11,500' then level at 2550 rpm and let temps
stabilize.
Allowing for a lower OAT, I got a 7 degree Celcius drop in oil temp and
CHT went from 190 degrees C to 180. Since CHT resolution is only 10
degrees I can't quantify CHT reduction.
However, 180 degrees C is fine and where oil temps in the 110 degree C
range were common before, today it was 87 Degrees C. Excellent.
I will try to find my recorded data on these incremental improvements and will
post a pic of the louvers/enlarged cowl bottom later
Until then you can also see the louvers at Robbie Attaway's website. I talked
with him during this process and his suggestions were very helpful.
http://www.attawayair.com/rv6a.htm
I still need to check temps during a hotter day but overall I am pleased and
am currently not considering replacing the oil cooler since the other low/no
cost mods seem to have solved my cooling problems.
180 Deg C is 356 Deg F
87 Deg C is 189 Deg F
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Manual trim cable attachment at aft end |
That piece screws onto the cable then is pop riveted to the bottom
of the Horizontal Stabilizer. I will go take a picture of mine and
email it to you.
Ron Lee
At 10:14 AM 9/6/2005, you wrote:
>
>I was playing with the elevators and the manual trim cable this weekend. I
>was trying to figure out how the aft end of the trim cable gets secured when
>I found the nut welded to a small steel plate in the manual trim hardware
>bag. I can only assume that this somehow gets attached to the access cover
>which then holds the cable in place.
>
>Questions:
>
>- Are there seperate manual trim instructions somewhere? I can find no
>reference in the instructions and the plans only have a small picture of
>this that I could find.
>
>- Did you just rivet this nut/steel plate to the access cover? Seems that if
>you did it this way it would be a challenge to 'turn' the access cover/nut
>onto the trim cable. (I positioned my manual trim cable higher on a center
>post, so I have no slack to pull it out farther.)
>
>I'm thinking a nutplate on the back side of the steel plate to attach it to
>the access cover. That would allow you to remove the access cover without
>removing the trim cable and such.
>
>
>Matthew Brandes,
>Van's RV-9A (Wiring)
>#90569
> <http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
>
>EAA Chapter 1329 President
>EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
RV-8 list RV List
| From: | Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Airflow Performance Fuel Adjustments |
I just ran my XP 360 for the first time and it idled extremely rich.
Black smoke, and soot on exhaust and it would idle much smoother after
leaning about half way back. I called Performance and they said to
shorten the linkage on the throttle arm to the fuel metering arm and I
did this, (two turns) and it seemed to make it worse on the second
run. Anybody out there have any experience adjusting the air flow
performance idle mixture and if so do you have a good procedure to
follow. Performance said I might have an intake leak but I don't think
that is the case. RV-8/XP 360/Vertical updraft FM 200 Airflow
Performance controller
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | High Oil temps, Correction to previous message |
I have to apologise to anyone that I may have confused in my response to a a
question about high oil temps yesterday. I had a senior moment and referred
to not using anything smaller than # 8 hoses when I meant to say #12 hoses
(i.e. 3/4 inch hoses and fittings).
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 125 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 9/6/2005 7:01:03 AM Pacific Standard Time, ktlkrn(at)cox.net
writes:
Harry,
Just curious if you have some imperical evidence that a firewall mounted
cooler will cause higher temps? My neigbor has an 8 that he originally mounted
the cooler on the baffles. After experiencing some temp issues he moved it to
the firewall with 3" SCAT tubing. Now everything is fine in the high AZ temps.
I followed his lead and mounted my oil cooler on the firewall. I have the
Stewart Warner 8432R dual pass cooler and have it mounted with 3" SCAT. This
should work great with 25% more cooling area than his. I'm also making a low
pressure ramp on the exit hole of the cowl to assist in removing air.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Darwin: When I was trying to decide where to mount my oil cooler I called
the folks at Pacific Oil Cooler who supplied my Aero Classic 7 row. Based
upon their experience they advised me strongly against firewall mounting.
They, I believe it was Skid Saurenman, pointed to the fact that a 3 inch SCAT
tube cannot supply as much air flow through the cooler as is available through
a full size opening in the baffles. For example, 3" SCAT has a cross
sectional area of approximately 7 square inches whereas the surface area at the
3 by
6 inch face of my seven row cooler is approximately 18 square inches.
Later, a friend had previously mounted his oil cooler on the firewall of his
6A and had a problem with high oil temps from day one. Based upon my
experience he moved his cooler to the rear baffle and shortened his oil supply
and
return hoses. His high oil temp problem went away. It is also important to
use # 12 hoses (NOT # 8 as I stated yesterday) for the supply and return
lines.
The downside of baffle mounting is of course that the baffles must be
seriously reinforced and stiffened in the mounting area to avoid cracking.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 125 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Lumpkin <tlump51(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Performance Fuel Adjustments |
Ed,
I have the Airflow Performance system on my RV-4 with a IO-360. I started my engine
and adjusted it last February prior to the first flight. I have 55 hours
on it now.
The mixture adjustment linkage is very sensitive. Two turns is a huge adjustment.
You want to turn the adjustment nut one flat at a time. You probably went
from too rich to too lean. If you're lucky enough to have a brave and qualified
friend, the best way is to adjust it while the engine is running.
I also found that after about 30 hours I had to adjust the mixture to be about
two flats leaner than the original setting. I don't know if this is due to engine
break-in.
Hope this helps.
Ted
Ed OConnor wrote:
I just ran my XP 360 for the first time and it idled extremely rich.
Black smoke, and soot on exhaust and it would idle much smoother after
leaning about half way back. I called Performance and they said to
shorten the linkage on the throttle arm to the fuel metering arm and I
did this, (two turns) and it seemed to make it worse on the second
run. Anybody out there have any experience adjusting the air flow
performance idle mixture and if so do you have a good procedure to
follow. Performance said I might have an intake leak but I don't think
that is the case. RV-8/XP 360/Vertical updraft FM 200 Airflow
Performance controller
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Abilene Formation Clinic |
1.53 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
Third and final update for the Abilene Frmation Clinic. There are still a few slots left. Two days left until the release of the block of rooms for the clinic. Now is the time to register if you might be coming. If so, go to http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html to register for clinic and motel.
I chose Abilene for this clinic to respond to CO, OK, and NM inguiries about clinics
in their vicinity. Now is the chance.
Stu McCurdy
Third and final update for the Abilene Frmation Clinic. There are still a few slots left. Two days left until the release of the block of rooms for the clinic. Now is the time to register if you might be coming. If so, go to http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.htmlto register for clinic and motel.
I chose Abilene for this clinic to respond to CO, OK, and NM inguiries about clinics
in their vicinity. Now is the chance.
Stu McCurdy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com> |
My local airport has no fuel services so I am contemplating a purchase of a
100+ gallon slip tank to store av gas for my planes. I was told that since
av gas is different than mo gas there can be some problems with a non av gas
fuel delivery system i.e. seals breaking down and possible contamination of
the av gas. Anybody have any experience or suggestions as to what has worked
for you ?
Thanks
Wayne Pedersen
Rv7a going to the paint shop
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.T. Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Katrina assistance near PDK |
An acquaintence thru another group just posted this on another forum.
Thought some of you near PDK might be able/interested in helping. They need
stuff do send, pilots/planes, help on ground loading flights, etc. Here's
the info:
1. Angel Flight of Georgia (AFG) located PDK, has a desperate need for
pilots, planes and ground volunteers.
2. I have volunteered to become the point of contact (POC)for COPA here at
KPDK. My name is Doug Snyder cell 404-788-9009, if you don't get me, leave a
VM, I will get back to you. email icsdoug(at)bellsouth.net I will be continuing
this coordination on the road via phone, email.
3. Minimum pilot qualification levels are as follows:
A. Private Pilot w/IFR (due to TFR's), min 250 hours total time.
B. Application <http://www.angelflight-ga.org/pilotappssl.htm> completed
and faxed into the number posted with attached documentation (requirements
posted on website).
C. We are trying to develop a quick pilot orientation briefing to allow
patient transport, as these flights still have the same urgent need.
4. You can fly to PDK, land, go into the AF office (Main Building, 2nd
Floor) and fill out the required paperwork and be in the air within an hour.
It would be best to complete the documentation prior to arrival. There is a
mass aircrew brief at 1030EDT 7SEP05 at the AF office, missions will be
distributed following the brief.
D. AFG has developed a collection point for needed supplies and distributing
them from PDK Mercury Hangar.
E. Mercury ( and other participating FBO's) are offering a discount on fuel
to AFG pilots.
F. Most missions are supplies, some personnel transport. There is security
and a POC at each location.
G. We are not giving the destination locations as the need changes so
quickly. The average flight distance is 300 miles one way from PDK. Most
locations are accessible by air only, at this time. VFR only!
F. Fuel is available at some destinations, some not, coordination will be
made before departure. The delivery flight must land and takeoff before
darkness, as there is no power.
G. I dont' have much time to answer general questions, beyond those listed
here.
H. Lastly, If you want to relocate to PDK and fly from here. I have room for
3-5 people at my house and one small vehicle. First come first served.
JT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 396 Problem Interim Report |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
autolearn=ham version=3.0.2
Howdy,
I reported previously on an incident, this weekend, where my XM weather and
audio service was deactivated, in flight. I was not able to restore
service, according to XM, because their computers were being upgraded.
I was surprised, and gratified, to be contacted by Garmin support, this
morning, by e-mail, on the basis of the note I posted previously.
I had a chat with some of the support team and they decided my problem was
probably caused by account problems with XM.
The 396 and the smart antenna are supposed to have the same radio ID number.
Mine did not and I originally had a problem getting both the weather and
audio activated. After talking to Garmin about it I called XM again and had
them remove the bad number and just activate the correct number. That
seemed to work. Both parts of the XM service worked fine, for several short
flights and through keeping the unit on quite a bit at home to look at the
weather data and practice using the machine.
The Garmin people believe that the problems with two ID numbers caused the
account to get fouled up and an erroneous code was send to deactivate the
service. They suggested I call a supervisor at XM to explain the situation
and get it corrected.
I did call the supervisor, and though she was very cooperative, she was
still not able to help me because the computers are still down. She said
they now should be up by tomorrow morning.
It looks like Garmin and XM have both contributed to my problems and there
may be a lesson here about the difficulties of having to deal with two
separate corporations for product support.
At one point I was about ready to chuck this receiver into the nearest pond.
I am now somewhat optimistic that one day, maybe even soon, my expensive box
will once again do what it is supposed to.
And oh, any computer experts out there looking for a job, I know a big
company who needs you bad.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Airflow Performance Fuel Adjustments |
| From: | "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com> |
Ed,
I've flown my Airflow unit on an O-360 900+ hours since 94.
Ted is exactly right - when adjusting for 'final idle mixture' you're
usually moving 1/2 of a flat for the final tweaking.
In my experience, the AP systems come from the factory set 'too rich',
and need some adjustment.
Note that 2 things are very critical in doing the adjustment -
1 - Make very sure that you only see a 50 rpm rise during the 'lean
check'. More or less is not acceptable.
2 - The engine must be 'hot', or fully warmed, or else your setting will
only work for the first couple minutes of engine operation following a
cold start.
My unit has served me well all these years, but the initial mixture
adjustment is a bit of a challenge.
Dw
RV-6 N790DW
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ted Lumpkin
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airflow Performance Fuel Adjustments
Ed,
I have the Airflow Performance system on my RV-4 with a IO-360. I
started my engine and adjusted it last February prior to the first
flight. I have 55 hours on it now.
The mixture adjustment linkage is very sensitive. Two turns is a huge
adjustment. You want to turn the adjustment nut one flat at a time.
You probably went from too rich to too lean. If you're lucky enough to
have a brave and qualified friend, the best way is to adjust it while
the engine is running.
I also found that after about 30 hours I had to adjust the mixture to be
about two flats leaner than the original setting. I don't know if this
is due to engine break-in.
Hope this helps.
Ted
Ed OConnor wrote:
I just ran my XP 360 for the first time and it idled extremely rich.
Black smoke, and soot on exhaust and it would idle much smoother after
leaning about half way back. I called Performance and they said to
shorten the linkage on the throttle arm to the fuel metering arm and I
did this, (two turns) and it seemed to make it worse on the second run.
Anybody out there have any experience adjusting the air flow performance
idle mixture and if so do you have a good procedure to follow.
Performance said I might have an intake leak but I don't think that is
the case. RV-8/XP 360/Vertical updraft FM 200 Airflow Performance
controller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
Anyone have a recommendation source for a good quality and best price 2 1/4 g meter
New?
Darrell
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | The Easter Egg RV is no more |
When I purchased N1610P the paint scheme was not to my liking.
Primarily because there was purple. Too much purple. Red next
to purple with no grey between them.
Seems some folks in Alabama called it the Easter Egg. How degrading.
But alas changing it seemed out of the question until a neighbor
made an offer I could not refuse. So I did all the prep work and he
painted.
Four weeks later it is a new airplane. Purple leg fairings became grey.
Red spinner is now grey. Vertical red strip on the back end of the
rudder is grey.
And to end my color misery, the red/purple all became a navy blue.
This morning I flew it for the first time. It leapt into the air with
assurance.
It looked better. It was at one with the sky around me. Even the COS
controllers seemed nicer.
Pic before is here:
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/SilverWestAugust2003/1610PSmall.jpg
Current pic is as follows:
http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/RVPaint.jpg
I need some accent stripes of some sort still but that can wait. I am
open to suggestions on accent styling colors as long as no purple
is involved. Email me privately if you have suggestions.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The Easter Egg RV is no more |
Way to go Ron. It definitely looks better & accent stripes will be the final
touch. Many times we have wished we had kept it. Hope to see u at LOE if
fuel prices don't keep going.
Take care.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
I will be taking the Matronics Web Server down for a few hours today,
Tuesday September 6 2005 for a chassis upgrade. Archive browsing and
searching along with subscription services will be unavailable for
be processed normally during the upgrade. Please check the Matronics
System Status Page for updates (although this page resides on the web
server and won't be available during the upgrade):
http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bulk fuel tank |
Dear Wayne
For the last 30 years I have used standard automotive and farm fuel storage
and delivery equipment. There has never been a problem (other than taxes
and bureaucrats)with these various systems.
Dick Martin
Martin Aerodrome
N233M RV8
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com>
Subject: RV-List: bulk fuel tank
>
>
> My local airport has no fuel services so I am contemplating a purchase of
> a
> 100+ gallon slip tank to store av gas for my planes. I was told that
> since
> av gas is different than mo gas there can be some problems with a non av
> gas
> fuel delivery system i.e. seals breaking down and possible contamination
> of
> the av gas. Anybody have any experience or suggestions as to what has
> worked
> for you ?
>
> Thanks
>
> Wayne Pedersen
> Rv7a going to the paint shop
>
>
> --
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John DeCuir <jadecuir(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Vetterman exhaust/RV4 |
Well, the time has come to replace my Tolle exhaust system. It's
getting to the point where there's more weld than tube. I've already
ordered the cross-over system from Vetterman, and I'm hoping there
won't be too much modification required. What I'm looking for are some
photos of RV4's showing the exhaust installation. I may be rerouting
some control cables and such, and I'm trying to steal some good ideas
from you experts out there!
I'm hoping the cowling doesn't need work.
John DeCuir
N204CP
RV4 (#21)
Salinas, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Easter Egg RV is no more |
Very nice, Ron! I'm sure you are happy to leave the E----- E-- tag
behind. The background of your photos makes me want to visit Colorado again.
Now.....if you would just add some nice purple accent stripes it would
be plum purty...... ;-)
Sam Buchanan (Alabama Folk)
====================================
Ron Lee wrote:
>
> When I purchased N1610P the paint scheme was not to my liking.
> Primarily because there was purple. Too much purple. Red next
> to purple with no grey between them.
>
> Seems some folks in Alabama called it the Easter Egg. How degrading.
>
> But alas changing it seemed out of the question until a neighbor
> made an offer I could not refuse. So I did all the prep work and he
> painted.
>
> Four weeks later it is a new airplane. Purple leg fairings became grey.
> Red spinner is now grey. Vertical red strip on the back end of the
> rudder is grey.
>
> And to end my color misery, the red/purple all became a navy blue.
>
> This morning I flew it for the first time. It leapt into the air with
> assurance.
> It looked better. It was at one with the sky around me. Even the COS
> controllers seemed nicer.
>
> Pic before is here:
>
> http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/SilverWestAugust2003/1610PSmall.jpg
>
> Current pic is as follows:
>
> http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/RVPaint.jpg
>
> I need some accent stripes of some sort still but that can wait. I am
> open to suggestions on accent styling colors as long as no purple
> is involved. Email me privately if you have suggestions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 396 Problems |
Howdy,
For anyone who has followed my 396 problems.
As of about 7:30 PM today I am again receiving weather and audio data on my
unit.
The XM supervisor I spoke with this afternoon reactivated me after I had
been deactivated several days ago for undetermined reasons. The literature
says the activation should become effective in a few minutes, but in this
case it took about 4 hours. According to the the XM representative I
telephoned, that is because of computer problems.
It has been disturbing, but Garmin, at least, has been very responsive, XM
has apologized a lot. I hope for no further problems.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
Check on down the list under " RV stuff for sale",there was one there.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | ed hicks wny visit |
Ed hicks is visiting western new york (Niagara falls)for two more days and
has room in his schedule for some air to airs.. he'll be pretty busy when he
gets to Oswego-fulton for the rv forum this weekend. If interested call my
cell 716 579 5790 steve d
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin 396 Problems |
>
>
> Howdy,
>
> For anyone who has followed my 396 problems.
>
> As of about 7:30 PM today I am again receiving weather and
> audio data on my unit.
>
> The XM supervisor I spoke with this afternoon reactivated me
> after I had been deactivated several days ago for
> undetermined reasons. The literature says the activation
> should become effective in a few minutes, but in this case it
> took about 4 hours. According to the the XM representative I
> telephoned, that is because of computer problems.
>
> It has been disturbing, but Garmin, at least, has been very
> responsive, XM has apologized a lot. I hope for no further problems.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://n5lp.net
Larry, I have been running the XM weather on my Anywhere Map system for a
year now, and have had to re-initialize the system once. AnywhereMap has a
good set of instructions for this worth printing and keeping in the plane.
I'm sure the pressure is on for XM to fix this most annoying problem.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 663 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
I saw that one, I was third in line... a day late.
Darrell
Oldsfolks(at)aol.com wrote:
Check on down the list under " RV stuff for sale",there was one there.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.T. Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Katrina assistance near PDK |
Here is a list of suggested items to donate if you're in the ATL area. I
know they literally need everything. I hadn't thought about the fresh fruit
though. I had a friend do a mission for Angel Flight on Saturday and
suggested he take in baby stuff especially formula. The 'receiver' (an
overworked and emotionally drained volunteer) was in tears when she saw the
formula. She'd not been able to get any for the entire week.
Following items are what donations they're asking for (The delivery point is
Mercury Hangar (an FBO?) at Dekalb-Peachtree Airport (PDK) in ATL.):
1. Diapers (assorted sizes)
2. Formula
3. Paper Towels
4. Latex Gloves
5. band-aids
6. neosporin
7. advil
8. tylenol
9. children's tylenol
10. peanut butter
11. inflatable mattresses (apparently in very short supply in ATL).
12. diaper creme
13. gatorade
14. tuna
15. fruit (they're flying it in, so it won't spoil)
16. baby food
17. caladryl
18. qtips
19. gauze
20. AccuChecks w/strips
21. ultra pasteurized milk (non-refrigerated)
> ______________________________________________
> From: J.T. Helms [mailto:jhelms(at)i1.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 3:01 PM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: Katrina assistance near PDK
>
> An acquaintence thru another group just posted this on another forum.
> Thought some of you near PDK might be able/interested in helping. They
> need stuff do send, pilots/planes, help on ground loading flights, etc.
> Here's the info:
> 1. Angel Flight of Georgia (AFG) located PDK, has a desperate need for
> pilots, planes and ground volunteers.
>
> 2. I have volunteered to become the point of contact (POC)for COPA here at
> KPDK. My name is Doug Snyder cell 404-788-9009, if you don't get me, leave
> a VM, I will get back to you. email icsdoug(at)bellsouth.net I will be
> continuing this coordination on the road via phone, email.
>
> 3. Minimum pilot qualification levels are as follows:
> A. Private Pilot w/IFR (due to TFR's), min 250 hours total time.
> B. Application <http://www.angelflight-ga.org/pilotappssl.htm> completed
> and faxed into the number posted with attached documentation (requirements
> posted on website).
> C. We are trying to develop a quick pilot orientation briefing to allow
> patient transport, as these flights still have the same urgent need.
>
> 4. You can fly to PDK, land, go into the AF office (Main Building, 2nd
> Floor) and fill out the required paperwork and be in the air within an
> hour. It would be best to complete the documentation prior to arrival.
> There is a mass aircrew brief at 1030EDT 7SEP05 at the AF office, missions
> will be distributed following the brief.
>
> D. AFG has developed a collection point for needed supplies and
> distributing them from PDK Mercury Hangar.
>
> E. Mercury ( and other participating FBO's) are offering a discount on
> fuel to AFG pilots.
>
> F. Most missions are supplies, some personnel transport. There is security
> and a POC at each location.
>
> G. We are not giving the destination locations as the need changes so
> quickly. The average flight distance is 300 miles one way from PDK. Most
> locations are accessible by air only, at this time. VFR only!
>
> F. Fuel is available at some destinations, some not, coordination will be
> made before departure. The delivery flight must land and takeoff before
> darkness, as there is no power.
>
> G. I dont' have much time to answer general questions, beyond those listed
> here.
>
> H. Lastly, If you want to relocate to PDK and fly from here. I have room
> for 3-5 people at my house and one small vehicle. First come first served.
>
> JT
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thoughts on Shipping? |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
It might depend on where you are located. I'm in Michigan, and Van's
shipping was less than I was able to get on Freightquote (I don't
remember what was quoted). I picked my wing kit (slow build) up at the
shipper's dock (ABF) with a borrowed trailer and paid $242.37. Home
delivery would have been $50 more - and you'd have to be there when it
is delivered of course (during the day - of course).
Dennis Glaeser
7A - now building those wings ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plugs for EI ...was Engine problems |
I've heard that using any sort of adaptor (from 14mm to 18mm plugs) altered
the heat range of the plug (I'm not sure I truly agree with this)... but
that being said, obviously if you are having good luck with these plugs then
the resulting heat range w/ use of the adaptor is OK for the application.
Are the NGK BR8ES (5422) plugs 14mm? I assume so. I'm interested in trying
some -but I guess I'll have to get some of Klaus' adaptors...
Scott
N4ZW
...In the process of overhauling my (1) Bendix S4LN-21 which runs along with
a Rose/ElectroAir unit...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Some little cautions about BMA and the EFIS Lite:
You have to pay a $195.00 fee for 'royalties' for the Jepp database
(basically they tack on the cost of a one-year database subscription).
"Manditory" I was told... and it's over and above the advertised price (they
don't tell you this up front). Seems to me that if it's manditory, and the
unit won't work without it -then it should be included in the advertised
price. It isn't. Garmin doesn't do that when you buy a GPS from them -it
comes loaded with the Jepp database for the advertised price -you're just
responsible for any updates -which is the way it should be.
Another thing is that they charge $50 for shipping -excessive IMHO, but
relatively minor.
And yet another -I decided that I didn't like the 'smoke and mirrors'
(term used by another poster -appropriate) sort of treatment by them, and
the general feeling that everything from them had a hidden extra cost
somewhere they were just waiting to stick you with, not to mention the tech
difficulties reported and the not-so-upfront attitude about said
difficulties (compared to the honest and upfront Dynon people for example).
So I decided to cancel my order. They informed me that to cancel would cost
me 3% for the initial charge made to my credit card and another 3% to run a
credit to the card -For a total of 6% of the $3040.00 that the unit was
going to cost w/ the shipping... or $182.58. Just to cancel an order for a
unit that hadn't shipped, and wasn't going to ship for another 2 weeks (they
told me that several times in two-week increments -so who knows). Why they
charged my card so far before the unit was to ship is beyond me anyhow
-unless they needed the money. Which could be the case. Anyway, I felt I was
treated very rudely. After thinking about it awhile, I called and told them
I wouldn't pay such a charge -and it took a few days of emailing and
pleading my case (to put it somewhat lightly -but I didn't yell at anyone)
and putting the charge in dispute in order to get all my money back. Not a
pleasant experience.
I have no doubt that BMA's Greg Richter is a true genius, and that he has
every capability to eventually develop a great and reliable product. How
customers are treated over the course of time will be interesting to watch.
I have a Dynon now (just recieved it) -they've been great to deal with. The
unit shipped a little earlier than promised (and they charged the card when
the unit shipped).
Make your own decision... I know you all will anyway.
Personally, I hope all these companies succeed -cause it's just that much
better for us all if they do -for numerous reasons.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dyaton experimental race, July 24th |
I've run the Airventure Cup Race two years now and had a complete blast...
I won my class in 2003 -my 1st year (O-320 RV -there were like 11 of us in
that class) with my fixed pitch 150 RV-4. Last year placed 4th in the RV's
(they didn't divide us up according to displacement like 2003). Last year I
was racing IO-360 powered planes...
And like Jon Huft said -the big thing is just to come and race -we have a
blast. Who cares who wins... Lots of 'extra perks' like catered dinner on
the museum floor at the Air Force museum after hours -we ate right next to
the planes... then had the place completely to ourselves for over two
hours... very cool. Then we went racing next morning. It just doesn't get
any better. Lots of fun -Y'all come race now! We need enough for another
O-320 RV class again...
It'll be some of the best fun you've ever had with your RV.
Scott
N4ZW
'Race 74' -"Think Fast"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ti tie downs |
Relax... you'll get them. He's very slow... and hard to get in touch with.
It took a couple months to get mine -mabye longer. I too thought he had gone
out of business and I'd never see my money again. You will eventually get a
package in the mail when you least expect it... and you'll be very pleased
with the product.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman exhaust/RV4 |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
Hi John:
I have Larry's cross over on my RV-4. Just so happens my cowling is off and
I'll be at the hangar tomorrow. Will get you all the photos you need.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
On 9/6/05 8:39 PM, "John DeCuir" wrote:
>
> Well, the time has come to replace my Tolle exhaust system. It's
> getting to the point where there's more weld than tube. I've already
> ordered the cross-over system from Vetterman, and I'm hoping there
> won't be too much modification required. What I'm looking for are some
> photos of RV4's showing the exhaust installation. I may be rerouting
> some control cables and such, and I'm trying to steal some good ideas
> from you experts out there!
> I'm hoping the cowling doesn't need work.
>
> John DeCuir
> N204CP
> RV4 (#21)
> Salinas, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plugs for EI ...was Engine problems |
> Are the NGK BR8ES (5422) plugs 14mm? I assume so. I'm interested in trying
> some -but I guess I'll have to get some of Klaus' adaptors...
Yeah, NGK BR8ES plugs are 14mm, 3/4" reach. I've been running them for
hundreds of hours on my Lightspeed Plasma II. They're cheap, reliable, and
work great on my IO-360-A1B6. I used the adapters which came with my EI.
Cheapest source I found was $1.61 each from Rock Auto. See the bottom of
this page: http://www.rvproject.com/pricewatch.html
My local Pep Boys used to stock 'em, but now it's a special order. Kragen
(Advance Auto Parts?) stocks them, slightly more expensive. Even Spruce
sells the BR8ES (relatively expensively):
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/ngk.php
Klaus charges $15/ea for the adapters, or you can get a set of 4 slightly
cheaper from Spruce:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/plugadapter.php
I still haven't been able to rationalize trying the Iridium plugs, i.e. NGK
BR8EIX. $7.10 each versus $1.61 each...hmm.....
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plugs for EI ...was Engine problems |
Just a note, the BR7 or BR8 plugs are motorcycle plugs/air cooled
Volkswagon plugs. So a buggy shop should have them and or a motorcycle
shop. Although I am sure you can get them cheaper on line.
>
> > Are the NGK BR8ES (5422) plugs 14mm? I assume so. I'm interested in trying
> > some -but I guess I'll have to get some of Klaus' adaptors...
>
>Yeah, NGK BR8ES plugs are 14mm, 3/4" reach. I've been running them for
>hundreds of hours on my Lightspeed Plasma II. They're cheap, reliable, and
>work great on my IO-360-A1B6. I used the adapters which came with my EI.
>
>Cheapest source I found was $1.61 each from Rock Auto. See the bottom of
>this page: http://www.rvproject.com/pricewatch.html
>
>My local Pep Boys used to stock 'em, but now it's a special order. Kragen
>(Advance Auto Parts?) stocks them, slightly more expensive. Even Spruce
>sells the BR8ES (relatively expensively):
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/ngk.php
>
>Klaus charges $15/ea for the adapters, or you can get a set of 4 slightly
>cheaper from Spruce:
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/plugadapter.php
>
>I still haven't been able to rationalize trying the Iridium plugs, i.e. NGK
>BR8EIX. $7.10 each versus $1.61 each...hmm.....
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plugs for EI ...was Engine problems |
I still haven't been able to rationalize trying the Iridium plugs, i.e.
NGK
BR8EIX. $7.10 each versus $1.61 each...hmm.....
Dan,
I've been down the Iridium plug route and your rational is totally correct.
Nothing but fouling problems, short life and expense was my experience.
Darrell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Spark Plugs for EI ...was Engine problems |
| From: | "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com> |
Might try the Emag website for the adapters too.
Dw
RV-6 Emag with BR8
>
>Klaus charges $15/ea for the adapters, or you can get a set of 4
>slightly cheaper from Spruce:
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/plugadapter.php
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
I believe there is a national consumer credit rule that a seller cannot
charge your credit card in advance of shipping the product. You have a
valid claim if that is done to you.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
is always beyond our grasp, but which,
if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
Nathanial Hawthorn
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
----- Original Message -----
From: <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net>
>
>
> snip
> So I decided to cancel my order. They informed me that to cancel would
> cost
> me 3% for the initial charge made to my credit card and another 3% to run
> a
> credit to the card -For a total of 6% of the $3040.00 that the unit was
> going to cost w/ the shipping... or $182.58. Just to cancel an order for a
> unit that hadn't shipped, and wasn't going to ship for another 2 weeks
> (they
> told me that several times in two-week increments -so who knows).
>
snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
If that is ture it is a good rule. I have a BMA G3 lite and love it. I fly
IFR with it and although not perfect it is as good as any instrument in my
airplane. However, I do not like how they bill then ship the product many
months later. It should be illegal and I hope that your are correct. I paid
5 months before I received my instrument.
Go get em.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
On 9/7/05, LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
>
> I believe there is a national consumer credit rule that a seller cannot
> charge your credit card in advance of shipping the product. You have a
> valid claim if that is done to you.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> " Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
> is always beyond our grasp, but which,
> if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
>
> Nathanial Hawthorn
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net>
>
>
> >
> >
> > snip
>
> > So I decided to cancel my order. They informed me that to cancel would
> > cost
> > me 3% for the initial charge made to my credit card and another 3% to
> run
> > a
> > credit to the card -For a total of 6% of the $3040.00 that the unit was
> > going to cost w/ the shipping... or $182.58. Just to cancel an order for
> a
> > unit that hadn't shipped, and wasn't going to ship for another 2 weeks
> > (they
> > told me that several times in two-week increments -so who knows).
> >
> snip
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator misalignment |
My RV8A's left and right elevator halves have incidence angles that differ by 1
degree. What kind of problems will this cause? Is there a tolerance you find
acceptable? Is there a fix short of building a new elevator half so the control
horn can be redrilled? The Matronics search server timed out so I haven't
been able to research this issue.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator misalignment |
I didn't build an 8 and it has been awhile, but can't you align the
elevators before drilling the two horns together? I would want the
elevators to be aligned properly.
Tim
RV-6
-------Original Message-------
From: DAVID REEL
Date: 09/07/05 22:49:32
Subject: RV-List: Elevator misalignment
My RV8A's left and right elevator halves have incidence angles that differ
by 1 degree. What kind of problems will this cause? Is there a tolerance
you find acceptable? Is there a fix short of building a new elevator half
so the control horn can be redrilled? The Matronics search server timed out
so I haven't been able to research this issue.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator misalignment |
Assuming the horns have already been drilled, you might consider going from
3/16" to 1/4". That would allow you to bias one elevator one way in the
process, and the other elevator the other way -- to eliminate or at least
reduce the difference in incidence. You'd have to change the rod end
bearing from 3/16" to 1/4", but that's not a big deal.
I remember hearing one case where Van's approved enlarging the hole in the
control horns from 3/16" to 1/4", but definitely give them a call before
committing to that!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator misalignment
>
> I didn't build an 8 and it has been awhile, but can't you align the
> elevators before drilling the two horns together? I would want the
> elevators to be aligned properly.
>
> Tim
> RV-6
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: DAVID REEL
> Date: 09/07/05 22:49:32
> To: rvlist
> Subject: RV-List: Elevator misalignment
>
>
> My RV8A's left and right elevator halves have incidence angles that differ
> by 1 degree. What kind of problems will this cause? Is there a tolerance
> you find acceptable? Is there a fix short of building a new elevator half
> so the control horn can be redrilled? The Matronics search server timed
> out
> so I haven't been able to research this issue.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
Howdy List-
What is the conventional wisdom on just flipping tires due to wear on one
side as opposed to switching R to L? I only have one wing jack and need to do
one at a time if possible. (can only lift one leg at a time!)
Thanks!
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Rotation |
Oh, I forgot to tell you. I start a new job Monday.
Drum roll please, get this .........
I am going to be a Blackhawk mechanic at Ft. Campbell working with a
Gov . contract company called DynCorp.
I'll have play money again!!!
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
On Thu, 8 Sep 2005, Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote...
>Howdy List-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tire Rotation |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
autolearn=ham version=3.0.2
Usually either the inside or outside is wearing. If you switch left to
right either the inside or outside worn part is still inside or outside as
it was originally.
I have been flipping the tire using a single wing jack for years and the
tires haven't exploded yet.
On 9/8/05 7:39 AM, "Fiveonepw(at)aol.com" wrote:
>
> Howdy List-
>
> What is the conventional wisdom on just flipping tires due to wear on one
> side as opposed to switching R to L? I only have one wing jack and need to do
> one at a time if possible. (can only lift one leg at a time!)
>
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flynlow" <flynlow(at)usaviator.net> |
(can only lift one leg at a time!)
Hummmm, does that give anyone else a rather unsavory picture? I knew this
dog once......... Hummmmm......
Seriously Mark, you can jack up one wing and place a saw horse with a pillow
on top under that wing, then go to the other side and jack up the other
wing. Just a thought, I am certainly no expert.
Bud Silvers
RV8 almost have a fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Tire Rotation
Howdy List-
What is the conventional wisdom on just flipping tires due to wear on one
side as opposed to switching R to L? I only have one wing jack and need to
do
one at a time if possible. (can only lift one leg at a time!)
Thanks!
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Rotation |
> What is the conventional wisdom on just flipping tires due to wear on one
> side as opposed to switching R to L? I only have one wing jack and need
> to do
> one at a time if possible. (can only lift one leg at a time!)
Lower one axle onto a block of wood, then jack up the other side.
Photo here:
http://rvproject.com/images/2005/20050209_tires_and_brakes.jpg
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Rotation |
If both tires are wearing on outside and u swap L to R that doesn't change
anything. Tire has to flipped on the rim. BTDT.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator misalignment |
I agree with Michael Stewart. I don't think one degree will cause you any problems.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A
DAVID REEL wrote:
My RV8A's left and right elevator halves have incidence angles that differ by 1
degree. What kind of problems will this cause? Is there a tolerance you find
acceptable? Is there a fix short of building a new elevator half so the control
horn can be redrilled? The Matronics search server timed out so I haven't been
able to research this issue.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Auto Spark Plugs for Bendix/Slick Mag-ed RV's |
| From: | "Condon,Philip M." <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Auto spark plugs for standard mag equipped RV's question
Using the available aviation plug-to-auto plug thread conversion
(Heli-coil looking thingies), has anyone made or found the
top-of-the-plug converters so we can use the standard aviation
slick/bendix wire harness-plug-ends on auto spark plugs ? Has this
been done before and I slept thru those discussions? The reason to do
this is cost, availability of exotic metal auto plugs, general
availability and other reasons that escape me.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator misalignment |
| From: | "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com> |
What about putting a 'doubler' where the hole that attaches the horns to
the control rod is and relocating the hole slightly?
Not sure now but before pre-punch it was common to have the
counterweights not line up if you lined-up the trailing edges of the
elevators.
However, we always felt the trailing edge alignment was more important
so we lined them up, and the only time you could tell the counterweights
didn't align was if the elevator was in trail with the Horz stab, which
is very seldom anyway (unless maybe you use a control lock at the
elevators. We usually use the pilots seat belt to hold the ailerons and
elevators when parked outside).
As to the original question ;-), not sure 1 degree will make a
difference....
Dw RV-6 905hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mark phipps
Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator misalignment
I agree with Michael Stewart. I don't think one degree will cause you
any problems.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A
DAVID REEL wrote:
My RV8A's left and right elevator halves have incidence angles that
differ by 1 degree. What kind of problems will this cause? Is there a
tolerance you find acceptable? Is there a fix short of building a new
elevator half so the control horn can be redrilled? The Matronics search
server timed out so I haven't been able to research this issue.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tire Rotation |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I switched/reversed/swapped mine recently with no known problems
afterwards. They are wearing evenly after 125 hours.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com said:
>
> In a message dated 9/8/05 10:31:57 AM Central Daylight Time,
> DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com writes:
>
>> If both tires are wearing on outside and u swap L to R that doesn't
>> change
>>
>> anything. Tire has to flipped on the rim. BTDT.
>>
>
>>>>
>
> Yah, it took some head-scratchin' but I already figgered that one out- the
> left is worn much more than the right, so rather than take both wheels
> off, tear
> 'em apart & re-assemble, I just wanted to flip the tire on the left side
> and
> was mostly curious if reversing the rotation of a tire could cause any
> problems...
>
> Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator misalignment |
>My RV8A's left and right elevator halves have incidence angles that differ
>by 1 degree. What kind of problems will this cause?
As I put my elevators back on after alignment I noticed that mine are not
perfect. How much off I can't say but it is obvious when you look in the
right place.
I still fly OK. Well, I am basically safe. If anything it masks my inherent
poor flying skills.
I often have greaser landings so that is not affected.
My altitude excursions from desired are normal so that is not affected.
As others noted, I suspect no real impact.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator misalignment |
In a message dated 9/7/2005 10:48:45 PM Pacific Standard Time, dreel(at)cox.net
writes:
My RV8A's left and right elevator halves have incidence angles that differ
by 1 degree. What kind of problems will this cause
I noticed the same thing after I had carefully aligned the elevator
counterweight horns before drilling the control arms, also 1 degree difference
BTW,
on my slow build (pre-predrilled) -6. I stewed around worrying about it for a
long time and finally decided to fly it to see if there was any problem
before starting on some difficult and perhaps risky fix. Bottomline is that she
flew nearly hands off on the first flight and trims out perfectly. I doubt
that you will ever notice any effect of that slight misalignment.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 128 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator misalignment |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
>
> DAVID REEL wrote:
>
> My RV8A's left and right elevator halves have incidence angles that differ by
> 1 degree. What kind of problems will this cause? Is there a tolerance you find
> acceptable? Is there a fix short of building a new elevator half so the
> control horn can be redrilled? The Matronics search server timed out so I
> haven't been able to research this issue.
On my RV-4, the trailing edge of my elevators are misaligned by at least
1/4" or more in order to get the counter balances to line up nice with the
horz stab. It had no effect on the trim of the airplane. I wouldn't worry
about 1 degree
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
N722DW, 230 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Discolored wing skins |
My project sat for several years while I went through a house sale,
move, and building a new garage / workshop. I left the plastic wrap on
the wing skins all this time.
I've taken the plastic off, and I have a discoloration along some of
the skin edges. It's spotty and never more than about an inch from the
edges. I'm presuming water seeped in under the edge or something along
those lines.
The discoloration is basically milky, perhaps as if a little acid ate
the surface of the alclad. The skins in this area are now very
slightly rough -- a fingertip doesn't notice anything, but I can feel a
slightly different texture with the back of my fingernail.
Is this surface corrosion? I don't know what light corrosion looks
like.
Should I just prime the affected areas and keep going? Or do I have to
buff it out or something?
Or maybe it's nothing to worry about?
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Discolored wing skins |
Yes, it is corrosion. Clean it with scotchbrite pad to remove the powdery
stuff, and spray with primer lightly. That will stop it and protect it.
Look at the edges also. You probably need to clean those as well before
priming.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
is always beyond our grasp, but which,
if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
Nathanial Hawthorn
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
----- Original Message -----
>
> My project sat for several years while I went through a house sale,
> move, and building a new garage / workshop. I left the plastic wrap on
> the wing skins all this time.
>
> I've taken the plastic off, and I have a discoloration along some of
> the skin edges. It's spotty and never more than about an inch from the
> edges. I'm presuming water seeped in under the edge or something along
> those lines.
>
> The discoloration is basically milky, perhaps as if a little acid ate
> the surface of the alclad. The skins in this area are now very
> slightly rough -- a fingertip doesn't notice anything, but I can feel a
> slightly different texture with the back of my fingernail.
>
> Is this surface corrosion? I don't know what light corrosion looks
> like.
>
> Should I just prime the affected areas and keep going? Or do I have to
> buff it out or something?
>
> Or maybe it's nothing to worry about?
>
> -Joe
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Anomoly |
I have an RV6 with 140 hrs, powered by an 0-360 with Airflow Perf. Fuel
injection. Flying back on a 2 hr x-country the other day, at 8500 ft, I
noticed fuel flow fluctuations bigger than normal. Normal is 0.1 gph
max, but usually no movement. It was oscillating 0.5 max to min (9.6 -
10.1). MP was also moving about 0.4 psi, and occasionally the RPM by
about 10 . No change when the electric pump was turned on. No change
when switching tanks.
I took the plane back up a couple days later, same response after
pulling the throttle back to cruise and leaning the mixture at 8500 ft.
I called Don Rivera at AFP, and he is a little stumped and recommended
more testing. Further flight test shows no fluctuation during take off
and climb out; same when throttling back for descent and landing - no
fluctuation. I repeated the same test today at 3100, 4500, 6500, 8500,
and 10500 ft. The problem still exists, but slightly less than before,
fuel flow .2 - .3 gph movement, MP about .3 psi delta. Perhaps a little
higher fluctuation at higher altitudes than lower. I asked Don if I
needed a new mechanical pump. He said that he thought that with no
change in the response when turning off the electric pump, it was
unlikely. He said the aux. pump fuel pressure should "push the
diaphragm aside" and pump directly to the fuel servo, when actuated. I
read 24-25 psi from the VM1000 at cruise altitude with the electric pump
on, 20 with it off, with an occasional momentary drop to 18 -19. He
thinks the fuel pressure transducer calibration is a little off, since
his electrical pump should put out 26 to 28 psi.
I pulled the AFP fuel filters (2) tonight and found them both clean, as
they were when I did the annual about 50 hours ago. I'll pull the
injectors Saturday, but don't expect to find anything new there. I
pumped fuel through the tanks, through the fuel valve and electric pump
and out through the firewall. No air bubbles other than when switching
through "OFF" between left and right tanks. I haven't checked the fuel
tank vents, but they seem to bleed fuel easily when the tank is full and
the fuel heats up with the plane in the hangar. The mechanical pump is
vented, no change here.
The only change made to the engine in the last month is the addition of
an air / oil separator instead of dumping over the exhaust pipe and
oiling the bottom of the plane. Can't see that this would affect the
fuel flow.
Any suggestions?
Duane Bentley
N 515DB
West Chester, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Anomoly |
>
> I have an RV6 with 140 hrs, powered by an 0-360 with Airflow
> Perf. Fuel injection. Flying back on a 2 hr x-country the
> other day, at 8500 ft, I noticed fuel flow fluctuations
> bigger than normal. Normal is 0.1 gph max, but usually no
> movement. It was oscillating 0.5 max to min (9.6 - 10.1).
> MP was also moving about 0.4 psi, and occasionally the RPM
> by about 10 . No change when the electric pump was turned
> on. No change when switching tanks.
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
> Duane Bentley
Fuel flow transducer?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 667 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Anomoly |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Flow Anomoly
>
> I have an RV6 with 140 hrs, powered by an 0-360 with Airflow Perf. Fuel
> injection. Flying back on a 2 hr x-country the other day, at 8500 ft, I
> noticed fuel flow fluctuations bigger than normal. Normal is 0.1 gph
> max, but usually no movement. It was oscillating 0.5 max to min (9.6 -
> 10.1). MP was also moving about 0.4 psi, and occasionally the RPM by
> about 10 . No change when the electric pump was turned on. No change
> when switching tanks.
>
>
> I took the plane back up a couple days later, same response after
> pulling the throttle back to cruise and leaning the mixture at 8500 ft.
>
>
> I called Don Rivera at AFP, and he is a little stumped and recommended
> more testing. Further flight test shows no fluctuation during take off
> and climb out; same when throttling back for descent and landing - no
> fluctuation. I repeated the same test today at 3100, 4500, 6500, 8500,
> and 10500 ft. The problem still exists, but slightly less than before,
> fuel flow .2 - .3 gph movement, MP about .3 psi delta. Perhaps a little
> higher fluctuation at higher altitudes than lower. I asked Don if I
> needed a new mechanical pump. He said that he thought that with no
> change in the response when turning off the electric pump, it was
> unlikely. He said the aux. pump fuel pressure should "push the
> diaphragm aside" and pump directly to the fuel servo, when actuated. I
> read 24-25 psi from the VM1000 at cruise altitude with the electric pump
> on, 20 with it off, with an occasional momentary drop to 18 -19. He
> thinks the fuel pressure transducer calibration is a little off, since
> his electrical pump should put out 26 to 28 psi.
>
>
> I pulled the AFP fuel filters (2) tonight and found them both clean, as
> they were when I did the annual about 50 hours ago. I'll pull the
> injectors Saturday, but don't expect to find anything new there. I
> pumped fuel through the tanks, through the fuel valve and electric pump
> and out through the firewall. No air bubbles other than when switching
> through "OFF" between left and right tanks. I haven't checked the fuel
> tank vents, but they seem to bleed fuel easily when the tank is full and
> the fuel heats up with the plane in the hangar. The mechanical pump is
> vented, no change here.
>
>
> The only change made to the engine in the last month is the addition of
> an air / oil separator instead of dumping over the exhaust pipe and
> oiling the bottom of the plane. Can't see that this would affect the
> fuel flow.
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
> Duane Bentley
>
> N 515DB
>
> West Chester, OH
>
Duane, I always like to start with the last thing I did before something
started happening. Frequently there is a correlation (at least in my
cases). I am wondering whether the addition of your air/oil separator could
possibly added a bit more pressure build up inside the crankcase. Perhaps
there is a small increase in crankcase pressure that is causing the
combustion chamber pressure to vary a bit (perhaps through the blowby amount
being changed). If one cylinder is not sealing quite as well as the others,
this might effect the amount of mixture it can ingest when the valves open
causing the small variation in manifold pressure. At cruise I presume you
are at wide open throttle - I believe that would also be the time your back
pressure in the crankcase would be at its maximum, acerbating the effect.
One quick way to check would be to disconnect your air/oil separator - it
either will have an effect or it won't {:>)
Ed A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jason Newburg" <newburg(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Discolored wing skins |
Just curious, in general are the builder of the RV series of aircraft
using etch and alodine then prime prior to assembly.
If corrosion is starting prior to the build process, I would suggest it
will go down hill quickly if not prepared/protected properly.
The value of these aircraft have increased so much that the time to
prepare the parts and prime prior to assembly would be a minor time
expense in the scheme of the value of the whole project.
Jason Newburg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LarryRobertHelming
Subject: Re: RV-List: Discolored wing skins
Yes, it is corrosion. Clean it with scotchbrite pad to remove the
powdery
stuff, and spray with primer lightly. That will stop it and protect it.
Look at the edges also. You probably need to clean those as well before
priming.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
is always beyond our grasp, but which,
if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
Nathanial Hawthorn
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
----- Original Message -----
>
> My project sat for several years while I went through a house sale,
> move, and building a new garage / workshop. I left the plastic wrap
on
> the wing skins all this time.
>
> I've taken the plastic off, and I have a discoloration along some of
> the skin edges. It's spotty and never more than about an inch from
the
> edges. I'm presuming water seeped in under the edge or something
along
> those lines.
>
> The discoloration is basically milky, perhaps as if a little acid ate
> the surface of the alclad. The skins in this area are now very
> slightly rough -- a fingertip doesn't notice anything, but I can feel
a
> slightly different texture with the back of my fingernail.
>
> Is this surface corrosion? I don't know what light corrosion looks
> like.
>
> Should I just prime the affected areas and keep going? Or do I have
to
> buff it out or something?
>
> Or maybe it's nothing to worry about?
>
> -Joe
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Burns" <burnsm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Anomoly |
Duane,
I'd check the throttle cable linkage. You say MP was also moving.
Couldn't the MP movement be driving the fuel flow movement?
Could something be going on in the airbox that would vary MP?
Like that little Van's alternate air "trap door" I read so much about.
Just throwing out some ideas.
Mark Burns
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duane Bentley
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Flow Anomoly
I have an RV6 with 140 hrs, powered by an 0-360 with Airflow Perf. Fuel
injection. Flying back on a 2 hr x-country the other day, at 8500 ft, I
noticed fuel flow fluctuations bigger than normal. Normal is 0.1 gph
max, but usually no movement. It was oscillating 0.5 max to min (9.6 -
10.1). MP was also moving about 0.4 psi, and occasionally the RPM by
about 10 . No change when the electric pump was turned on. No change
when switching tanks.
I took the plane back up a couple days later, same response after
pulling the throttle back to cruise and leaning the mixture at 8500 ft.
I called Don Rivera at AFP, and he is a little stumped and recommended
more testing. Further flight test shows no fluctuation during take off
and climb out; same when throttling back for descent and landing - no
fluctuation. I repeated the same test today at 3100, 4500, 6500, 8500,
and 10500 ft. The problem still exists, but slightly less than before,
fuel flow .2 - .3 gph movement, MP about .3 psi delta. Perhaps a little
higher fluctuation at higher altitudes than lower. I asked Don if I
needed a new mechanical pump. He said that he thought that with no
change in the response when turning off the electric pump, it was
unlikely. He said the aux. pump fuel pressure should "push the
diaphragm aside" and pump directly to the fuel servo, when actuated. I
read 24-25 psi from the VM1000 at cruise altitude with the electric pump
on, 20 with it off, with an occasional momentary drop to 18 -19. He
thinks the fuel pressure transducer calibration is a little off, since
his electrical pump should put out 26 to 28 psi.
I pulled the AFP fuel filters (2) tonight and found them both clean, as
they were when I did the annual about 50 hours ago. I'll pull the
injectors Saturday, but don't expect to find anything new there. I
pumped fuel through the tanks, through the fuel valve and electric pump
and out through the firewall. No air bubbles other than when switching
through "OFF" between left and right tanks. I haven't checked the fuel
tank vents, but they seem to bleed fuel easily when the tank is full and
the fuel heats up with the plane in the hangar. The mechanical pump is
vented, no change here.
The only change made to the engine in the last month is the addition of
an air / oil separator instead of dumping over the exhaust pipe and
oiling the bottom of the plane. Can't see that this would affect the
fuel flow.
Any suggestions?
Duane Bentley
N 515DB
West Chester, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Land Of Enchantment RV Fly-In October 15-17, 2005 |
Adventure Aviation FBO at Las Cruces, NM is sponsoring the "Land of Enchantment
RV Fly-In" October 15-17. They have advertised the event in the
Experimental Aircraft Technology magazine and locally....
Not sure what the 'beef' was with the previous RV Fly-In at LOE Las Cruces
or the organizers, but Jo and Doug at Adventure Aviation will be hosting an RV
Fly-In
the same weekend as the RV Fly-In at Santa Teresa. I spoke at length with
Jo about the event and all I can say is there are always two sides to the
story and the previous event organizers may have been wearing their ego's on
their sleeves.... Jo explained they couldn't get the already prepared food
out of the kitchen fast enough for "Red" and they (Adventure Aviation)
bought SIX kegs of beer for the event out of their own pockets for all that
showed up. According to Jo, the organizers preferred cups from the
restaurant stock rather than using the beer cups that Budweiser supplied
with the six kegs of beer. Just relaying info as I was told.
I was actually at the LOE 2004 Fly-In. I was in Alamogordo, NM on business
and drove over to check out the planes and event. I was impressed by the
organization and number of folks that showed up. Jo's son Clint had
installed extra tiedowns for the event and there was plenty of parking (on
pavement) for all the planes that showed up. I bought a ticket to the
buffet dinner on Saturday evening but departed before dinner was served.
Santa Teresa is in the middle of nowhere and I doubt the parking will be
adequate if the same number of RVs show up as in the past.
Having just returned from Las Cruces after being hosted by Adventure
Aviation for the past week, they are OUTSTANDING host! I sincerely hope RV
pilots/owners will support the Las Cruces RV Fly-In and skip the Santa
Teresa event. The folks at KLRU and Las Cruces deserve our support.
My two cents!
Jack Lockamy
RV-7A N174JL
Camarillo, CA
www.jacklockamy.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Anomoly |
The fact that you had three separate indications fluctuating, and since
you're using a consolidated engine monitor, it suggests an electrical/wiring
issue to me. Does the problem vary with different RPM (i.e. different
vibration frequencies)? You mentioned it occurs after throttling back and
leaning...does it literally happen at a certain fuel flow, or at a
particular power setting?
I would check all the wiring connections (if possible), including battery
connections, to rule out a loose ground or something like that.
Just my 2 cents, it's a stab in the dark. Hope it helps!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Flow Anomoly
>
> I have an RV6 with 140 hrs, powered by an 0-360 with Airflow Perf. Fuel
> injection. Flying back on a 2 hr x-country the other day, at 8500 ft, I
> noticed fuel flow fluctuations bigger than normal. Normal is 0.1 gph
> max, but usually no movement. It was oscillating 0.5 max to min (9.6 -
> 10.1). MP was also moving about 0.4 psi, and occasionally the RPM by
> about 10 . No change when the electric pump was turned on. No change
> when switching tanks.
>
>
> I took the plane back up a couple days later, same response after
> pulling the throttle back to cruise and leaning the mixture at 8500 ft.
>
>
> I called Don Rivera at AFP, and he is a little stumped and recommended
> more testing. Further flight test shows no fluctuation during take off
> and climb out; same when throttling back for descent and landing - no
> fluctuation. I repeated the same test today at 3100, 4500, 6500, 8500,
> and 10500 ft. The problem still exists, but slightly less than before,
> fuel flow .2 - .3 gph movement, MP about .3 psi delta. Perhaps a little
> higher fluctuation at higher altitudes than lower. I asked Don if I
> needed a new mechanical pump. He said that he thought that with no
> change in the response when turning off the electric pump, it was
> unlikely. He said the aux. pump fuel pressure should "push the
> diaphragm aside" and pump directly to the fuel servo, when actuated. I
> read 24-25 psi from the VM1000 at cruise altitude with the electric pump
> on, 20 with it off, with an occasional momentary drop to 18 -19. He
> thinks the fuel pressure transducer calibration is a little off, since
> his electrical pump should put out 26 to 28 psi.
>
>
> I pulled the AFP fuel filters (2) tonight and found them both clean, as
> they were when I did the annual about 50 hours ago. I'll pull the
> injectors Saturday, but don't expect to find anything new there. I
> pumped fuel through the tanks, through the fuel valve and electric pump
> and out through the firewall. No air bubbles other than when switching
> through "OFF" between left and right tanks. I haven't checked the fuel
> tank vents, but they seem to bleed fuel easily when the tank is full and
> the fuel heats up with the plane in the hangar. The mechanical pump is
> vented, no change here.
>
>
> The only change made to the engine in the last month is the addition of
> an air / oil separator instead of dumping over the exhaust pipe and
> oiling the bottom of the plane. Can't see that this would affect the
> fuel flow.
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
> Duane Bentley
>
> N 515DB
>
> West Chester, OH
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Discolored wing skins |
Hi Joe,
If you plan to cover the areas involved with paint try this. Use a red
Scotchbrite pad and some acid etch solution (Alumiprep is the one I am
familiar with). scour and etch a test area as if preparing to paint. This
should remove the surface etching that you describe. During the prep for
paint sessions surfaces will have to be treated to some fairly serious
scouring etching etc. before the paint is applied. Talk to some paint shop
employees, maybe go in person to a shop or two to get a good feel for what
the Alclad skins will endure while being readied for paint. Maybe show them
a sample to get their opinion.
If a polished aluminium finish is you dream, wake up dude!..{[;-)!!
Jim in Kelowna, A lot of paint prep is being done here right now.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Subject: RV-List: Discolored wing skins
>
> My project sat for several years while I went through a house sale,
> move, and building a new garage / workshop. I left the plastic wrap on
> the wing skins all this time.
>
> I've taken the plastic off, and I have a discoloration along some of
> the skin edges. It's spotty and never more than about an inch from the
> edges. I'm presuming water seeped in under the edge or something along
> those lines.
>
> The discoloration is basically milky, perhaps as if a little acid ate
> the surface of the alclad. The skins in this area are now very
> slightly rough -- a fingertip doesn't notice anything, but I can feel a
> slightly different texture with the back of my fingernail.
>
> Is this surface corrosion? I don't know what light corrosion looks
> like.
>
> Should I just prime the affected areas and keep going? Or do I have to
> buff it out or something?
>
> Or maybe it's nothing to worry about?
>
> -Joe
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator misalignment |
DAVID REEL wrote:
>
> My RV8A's left and right elevator halves have incidence angles that
> differ by 1 degree. What kind of problems will this cause? Is there a
> tolerance you find acceptable? Is there a fix short of building a new
> elevator half so the control horn can be redrilled? The Matronics
> search
> server timed out so I haven't been able to research this issue.
>
>
According to the data in the CAFE RV-8A Aircraft Performance Report,
each elevator has an area of about 4.4 ft
2. So each elevator has
about one twelfth as much area as a wing. The rolling moment is
proportional to the area times the span, and the elevator span is
about 100 inches while the wing span is about 23 ft (depending on
which style wing tips you have.
Thus the rolling moment created by this one degree side-to-side
elevator misalignment would be about the same as if there was a side-
to-side difference in wing incidence of about 0.03 degrees. You
would have a very hard time finding a way to measure your wing
incidence well enough to measure that finely.
The elevator misalignment won't cause a handling, performance or
structural problem. It might be a cosmetic problem, but that is for
you to judge.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Fuel Flow Anomoly |
Thanks for the responses.
Yes, I had the same fluctuations at 2500 rpm in cruise that I saw at
2400.
Don't think it's the fuel flow transducer, since the other two
parameters are also telling me there real engine response issue.
I have a throttle quadrant with a pretty good friction lock, so I don't
think I'm picking up a vibration that is moving one of the cables.
Again, why only at cruise with mixture reduction? By the way, I did
have those magnets drop off the FAB Box flapper door about a month ago.
(Not a great retention design). I got some new ones and glassed them in
place, so the door isn't flapping for sure.
An electrical problem . maybe, but I don't know how to isolate it as in
intermittent problem that doesn't appear during take off, climb, or
descent.
Don Rivera also tossed the CS prop governor as an issue into the ring.
Is the prop cycling the engine, causing the MP and therefore fuel to
cycle? That is also difficult to trouble shoot. Again, why only at
cruise?
The suggestion of reverting back to the old crankcase breather tube can
be done without a major problem. I'll give that one a try on Saturday
as well.
So you can see why I'm welcoming any input.
Thanks
Duane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator misalignment |
direct quote from Van's: Life was sooo much easier before the digital levels
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
>
>
>
>>DAVID REEL wrote:
>>
>>My RV8A's left and right elevator halves have incidence angles that differ by
>>1 degree. What kind of problems will this cause? Is there a tolerance you find
>>acceptable? Is there a fix short of building a new elevator half so the
>>control horn can be redrilled? The Matronics search server timed out so I
>>haven't been able to research this issue.
>>
>>
>
>On my RV-4, the trailing edge of my elevators are misaligned by at least
>1/4" or more in order to get the counter balances to line up nice with the
>horz stab. It had no effect on the trim of the airplane. I wouldn't worry
>about 1 degree
>
>Doug Weiler
>Hudson, WI
>N722DW, 230 hrs
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Rotation |
In a message you write:
I just wanted to flip the tire on the left side and
was mostly curious if reversing the rotation of a tire could cause any
problems...
====================
Only if you are running steel belted radials.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marty" <martorious(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Fuel Flow Anomaly |
>Again, why only at cruise with mixture reduction? By the way, I did
>have those magnets drop off the FAB Box flapper door about a month
>ago.
>(Not a great retention design). I got some new ones and glassed them
>in
>place, so the door isn't flapping for sure.
>
Don't be so quick here. Perhaps the door is flapping, that could be
the cause. Now stay with me here. Perhaps at cruise you're drawing
just enough of a vacuum to overpower the magnet (if you just glassed
it in, perhaps the glass is thick enough to have lessened the hold of
the magnet?) When the door opens the vacuum is relieved enough the
magnet catches and closes the door, thus the fluctuation. Why only at
cruise? Perhaps the particular cruise setting you use is on the edge
of the magnets performance envelope. At higher settings the MP is
such that the bypass door stays open, thus no fluctuations, and just
the opposite at lower throttle settings, i.e. the door stays closed.
Like others, I'm just shooting ideas into the dark! If you find a way
to test this, let us know the outcome.
Marty in Indiana
RV-8A Preview plans in Hand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Cowl Louver/Enlarged exhaust cutout area pic |
The louvers were made locally by a hotrod guy (like louvers on the
hoods of some cars).
http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/Cowl_Louver_Small.jpg
Ron Lee
PS, manly blue isn't it !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Vertical card compass |
Hello All,
I=92m looking for a source for a panel mount 2 =BC=94 vertical card compass.
I=92ve scoured Spruce, Chief and others and have not found =93panel mount=94
in their description. Also, I=92d be interested in hearing about the
accuracy/reliability from those that have a vertical card compass.
Best regards,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator misalignment |
On 13:17:42 2005-09-08 Kevin Horton wrote:
> The elevator misalignment won't cause a handling, performance or
> structural problem. It might be a cosmetic problem, but that is for
> you to judge.
How much additional drag will it cause though? :)
Kevin's right, I would suggest that the only reasons to correct it are (a)
your perfectionist nature, or (b) you're going for the absolute fastest
airplane you can get.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tire Rotation |
| From: | alan(at)reichertech.com |
<...>
> Yah, it took some head-scratchin' but I already figgered that one out- the
> left is worn much more than the right, so rather than take both wheels
> off, tear
> 'em apart & re-assemble, I just wanted to flip the tire on the left side
> and was mostly curious if reversing the rotation of a tire could
> cause any problems...
If direction of rotation concerns you, then take note of current rotation
direction of each tire, pull them off the rims and put them on the
opposite side with the same orientation. That will keep rotational
direction the same and put the better tread area of the tire on the ground
(unless your tires are wearing in the absolute center of the tread, in
which case this just becomes an exercise in tire changing ;-). Dan C.
showed a picture previously about putting the axles on a temporary stand
while you do wheel/brake work.
--
Alan Reichert
Priv, Inst, SEL
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Final Assembly of Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator misalignment |
On 9 Sep 2005, at 01:05, Rob Prior (rv7) wrote:
>
> On 13:17:42 2005-09-08 Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>> The elevator misalignment won't cause a handling, performance or
>> structural problem. It might be a cosmetic problem, but that is for
>> you to judge.
>>
>
> How much additional drag will it cause though? :)
>
I'm not sure how to calculate an estimated drag loss without delving
into my old textbooks. But I'm sure it would be small enough that
you wouldn't be able to measure it via a flight test. If this is the
biggest flaw in this RV when it is done it'll be an award winner :)
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Anomaly |
Someone has already mentioned the fuel flow transducer, but I will mention
it again as I had a problem similar to what you describe that turned out to
be related to the transducer. During installation of the (EI) fuel flow
computer, I installed the transducer without following the (explicit)
instructions regarding its orientation. After 40+ hours of inconsistent
readings, I built a small bracket to mount the transducer level when my -4
is in level flight. Since then and for the past 300+ hours the system has
worked flawlessly. EI explained to me that proper orientation of the
transducer is critical for proper function.
Good luck,
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Bolton, MA
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Flow Anomoly
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 21:07:29 -0400
I have an RV6 with 140 hrs, powered by an 0-360 with Airflow Perf. Fuel
injection. Flying back on a 2 hr x-country the other day, at 8500 ft, I
noticed fuel flow fluctuations bigger than normal. Normal is 0.1 gph
max, but usually no movement. It was oscillating 0.5 max to min (9.6 -
10.1). MP was also moving about 0.4 psi, and occasionally the RPM by
about 10 . No change when the electric pump was turned on. No change
when switching tanks.
I took the plane back up a couple days later, same response after
pulling the throttle back to cruise and leaning the mixture at 8500 ft.
I called Don Rivera at AFP, and he is a little stumped and recommended
more testing. Further flight test shows no fluctuation during take off
and climb out; same when throttling back for descent and landing - no
fluctuation. I repeated the same test today at 3100, 4500, 6500, 8500,
and 10500 ft. The problem still exists, but slightly less than before,
fuel flow .2 - .3 gph movement, MP about .3 psi delta. Perhaps a little
higher fluctuation at higher altitudes than lower. I asked Don if I
needed a new mechanical pump. He said that he thought that with no
change in the response when turning off the electric pump, it was
unlikely. He said the aux. pump fuel pressure should "push the
diaphragm aside" and pump directly to the fuel servo, when actuated. I
read 24-25 psi from the VM1000 at cruise altitude with the electric pump
on, 20 with it off, with an occasional momentary drop to 18 -19. He
thinks the fuel pressure transducer calibration is a little off, since
his electrical pump should put out 26 to 28 psi.
I pulled the AFP fuel filters (2) tonight and found them both clean, as
they were when I did the annual about 50 hours ago. I'll pull the
injectors Saturday, but don't expect to find anything new there. I
pumped fuel through the tanks, through the fuel valve and electric pump
and out through the firewall. No air bubbles other than when switching
through "OFF" between left and right tanks. I haven't checked the fuel
tank vents, but they seem to bleed fuel easily when the tank is full and
the fuel heats up with the plane in the hangar. The mechanical pump is
vented, no change here.
The only change made to the engine in the last month is the addition of
an air / oil separator instead of dumping over the exhaust pipe and
oiling the bottom of the plane. Can't see that this would affect the
fuel flow.
Any suggestions?
Duane Bentley
N 515DB
West Chester, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Anomoly |
I had a similar problem, but with fuel pressure fluctuations. Fuel
pressures went from 25 psi on take off full power to 6 psi at cruise. I
had the AFP fuel filter screen in the fuel filter installed backwards after
an annual conditional inspection. Reversed the screen, all OK.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical card compass |
Those are all panel mounts. If you want to mount it another way you
purchase that mount seperatly.
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
On Thu, 8 Sep 2005, William Gill wrote...
>
>Hello All,
>
>I=92m looking for a source for a panel mount 2 =BC=94 vertical card
compass.
>I=92ve scoured Spruce, Chief and others and have not found =93panel
mount=94
>in their description. Also, I=92d be interested in hearing about the
>accuracy/reliability from those that have a vertical card compass.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Vision Micro System VM1000 template |
Anyone have or know where I can download a template for the instrument panel
cut out for the Vision Micro System VM1000???
I need it 'right now' or I'll have to make my own :
(.
_http://www.visionmicrosystems.com/_ (http://www.visionmicrosystems.com/)
Thanks in advance.
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - RV6 Sold, Finishing RV8 & F1 Rocket
under construction.
Please archive this so we can find it later!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Fuel Flow Anomaly |
For less than $100 you can buy a tiny remote camera that sends it's signal
back to your camcorder. They work great and can be duct taped anywhere to
check for vibrations, etc.
John
RV6A
F1 Rocket in the oven
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vision Micro System VM1000 template |
Rick,
Mine came with the unit from Vision Microsystems and it's made of metal.
It's up to you, but I'd wait for the metal one (I'm sure they will send you
one) rather than trying to work off a paper template.
If you get your hands on the metal template, you might consider using a
router with a straight, flush cutting (roller guide) bit. I did mine that
way and it works great. The set up is critical but once done it's a snap.
Basically it was is sheet of 3/4 MDF with the template attached to the
bottom and the panel attached to the top. I cut a hole in the MDF slightly
larger than the inside edge of template, but not so large that I could not
mount the template with screws to the bottom of the MDF. I cut, within a 1/4
inch or so, the opening in the panel then screwed the panel, using the
pre-punched holes, to the top of the MDF directly over and exactly where you
want the VM1000 to be. That's the critical part. Once set up, use the router
to follow the metal template around the edge removing the last 1/4 inch of
material.
If you like I can send you some pictures of the jig I built to make the
cut.
One more thing. Today is Friday. If I recall correctly, Vision Micro Systems
is closed on Fridays. It's always something!
Hope this helps.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV-8, N842S
Almost there
----- Original Message -----
From: <RGray67968(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Vision Micro System VM1000 template
>
> Anyone have or know where I can download a template for the instrument
> panel
> cut out for the Vision Micro System VM1000???
>
> I need it 'right now' or I'll have to make my own :
> (.
>
> _http://www.visionmicrosystems.com/_ (http://www.visionmicrosystems.com/)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - RV6 Sold, Finishing RV8 & F1
> Rocket
> under construction.
>
> Please archive this so we can find it later!!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Fuel Flow Anomaly |
On this note I would possibly concur. We also had problems with the flapper
door on our engine with the AFP fuel injection. It didn't show up until
well after the 100 hour mark on our RV-9A.n We found it during the first
yearly condition inspection. It seems that the air box mounting donut that
AFP provides couses a lower pressure area inside the air box right over the
flapper door and was causing it to come open above a certain RPM. To test
it we "glued" the door shut with some RTV, soemthing that could be scrapped
off pretty easily. The very next takeoff I got almost another .5 inches MP,
a better fuel flow and lower CHTs. One of these days I am just going to
order a new air box and get rid of the flapper door entirely.
Again, this problem is only if you are using the AirFlow Performance fuel
injection and Van's airbox.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A, RV6A, RV-9A
>From: "Marty" <martorious(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Fuel Flow Anomaly
>Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 23:21:52 -0500
>
>
> >Again, why only at cruise with mixture reduction? By the way, I did
> >have those magnets drop off the FAB Box flapper door about a month
> >ago.
> >(Not a great retention design). I got some new ones and glassed them
> >in
> >place, so the door isn't flapping for sure.
> >
>
>
>Don't be so quick here. Perhaps the door is flapping, that could be
>the cause. Now stay with me here. Perhaps at cruise you're drawing
>just enough of a vacuum to overpower the magnet (if you just glassed
>it in, perhaps the glass is thick enough to have lessened the hold of
>the magnet?) When the door opens the vacuum is relieved enough the
>magnet catches and closes the door, thus the fluctuation. Why only at
>cruise? Perhaps the particular cruise setting you use is on the edge
>of the magnets performance envelope. At higher settings the MP is
>such that the bypass door stays open, thus no fluctuations, and just
>the opposite at lower throttle settings, i.e. the door stays closed.
>
>Like others, I'm just shooting ideas into the dark! If you find a way
>to test this, let us know the outcome.
>
>
>Marty in Indiana
>RV-8A Preview plans in Hand
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator misalignment |
Laugh if you want to but my experience with large remote control airplanes is that
when one of the elevators is off a bit or even not even moving at all (ie,
servo no longer driving one of the split elevators), it could be hard to tell
as long as the other elevator half had enough throw to give you the pitch you
needed. I have been and I've seen others surprised to learn after landing that
one of the elevators isn't moving anymore. It usually just results in a "huh,
wonder when that happened..,"
So my anectodal evidence is that it won't be the end of the world by a long shot.
That's kind of the opposite experience to where you lost an aileron because that
was usually very easy to tell but also not usually the end of the world either.
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> On 9 Sep 2005, at 01:05, Rob Prior (rv7) wrote:
>
> >
> > On 13:17:42 2005-09-08 Kevin Horton wrote:
> >
> >> The elevator misalignment won't cause a handling, performance or
> >> structural problem. It might be a cosmetic problem, but that is for
> >> you to judge.
> >>
> >
> > How much additional drag will it cause though? :)
> >
>
> I'm not sure how to calculate an estimated drag loss without delving
> into my old textbooks. But I'm sure it would be small enough that
> you wouldn't be able to measure it via a flight test. If this is the
> biggest flaw in this RV when it is done it'll be an award winner :)
>
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
>
>
Laugh if you want to but my experience with large remote control airplanes is that
when one of the elevators is off a bitor even not even moving at all (ie,
servo no longer driving one ofthe split elevators), it could be hard to tell as
long as the other elevator half had enough throw to give you the pitch you needed.
I have been and I've seen others surprised to learn after landing that
one of the elevators isn't moving anymore. It usually just results in a "huh,
wonder when that happened..,"
So my anectodal evidence is that it won't be the end of the world by a long shot.
That's kind of the opposite experience to where you lost an aileron because that
was usually very easy to tell but also not usually the end of the world either.
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
On 9 Sep 2005, at 01:05, Rob Prior (rv7) wrote:
-- RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)"
On 13:17:42 2005-09-08 Kevin Horton wrote:
The elevator misalignment won't cause a handling, performance or
structural problem. It might be a cosmetic problem, but that is for
you to judge.
How much additional drag will it cause though? :)
I'm not sure how to calculate an estimated drag loss without delving
into my old textbooks. But I'm sure it would be small enough that
you wouldn't be able to measure
it via a flight test. If this is the
biggest flaw in this RV when it is done it'll be an award winner :)
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Gunn" <ggunn(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Of Enchantment RV Fly-In October 15-17, 2005 |
Not many will show if the all the raffle items are elsewhere.
Gary Gunn
RV-6
jacklockamy wrote:
>
>Adventure Aviation FBO at Las Cruces, NM is sponsoring the "Land of Enchantment
>RV Fly-In" October 15-17. They have advertised the event in the
>Experimental Aircraft Technology magazine and locally....
>
>Not sure what the 'beef' was with the previous RV Fly-In at LOE Las Cruces
>or the organizers, but Jo and Doug at Adventure Aviation will be hosting an RV
Fly-In
>the same weekend as the RV Fly-In at Santa Teresa. I spoke at length with
>Jo about the event and all I can say is there are always two sides to the
>story and the previous event organizers may have been wearing their ego's on
>their sleeves.... Jo explained they couldn't get the already prepared food
>out of the kitchen fast enough for "Red" and they (Adventure Aviation)
>bought SIX kegs of beer for the event out of their own pockets for all that
>showed up. According to Jo, the organizers preferred cups from the
>restaurant stock rather than using the beer cups that Budweiser supplied
>with the six kegs of beer. Just relaying info as I was told.
>
>I was actually at the LOE 2004 Fly-In. I was in Alamogordo, NM on business
>and drove over to check out the planes and event. I was impressed by the
>organization and number of folks that showed up. Jo's son Clint had
>installed extra tiedowns for the event and there was plenty of parking (on
>pavement) for all the planes that showed up. I bought a ticket to the
>buffet dinner on Saturday evening but departed before dinner was served.
>Santa Teresa is in the middle of nowhere and I doubt the parking will be
>adequate if the same number of RVs show up as in the past.
>
>Having just returned from Las Cruces after being hosted by Adventure
>Aviation for the past week, they are OUTSTANDING host! I sincerely hope RV
>pilots/owners will support the Las Cruces RV Fly-In and skip the Santa
>Teresa event. The folks at KLRU and Las Cruces deserve our support.
>
>My two cents!
>
>Jack Lockamy
>RV-7A N174JL
>Camarillo, CA
>www.jacklockamy.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV Forum in NY KFZY Sept 9-10 & 11 |
RV Listers remember...another fly in forum in NY is HERE NOW go to:
WWW>EAACHAPTER486>com
Find link regarding the RV Forum Weekend of September 9, 10 & 11 2005
Other web rings showing group flights of RV's inbound for the Saturday showing
Weather looking very favorable.
Hope to see you there, respectfully
David McManmon
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | GNS 430 RS232 output |
Doug, I found the right wire finally. Now I just need to find a new home
in the panel that does not conflict with something else.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | How long for Pro Seal |
I had to remove and reinstall one of my fuel tank inspection plates today and sealed
it with Pro Seal. Anyone have a good idea how long I should wait before
I put fuel in it and fly again? The day time temps are around 85 and nights in
the mid 50's.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A
>
>
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need a Sender Float |
If anyone out there in RV-land has an extra float from one of the Stewart
Warner senders that they would be willing to part with, I would appreciate
having it. My hangar-mate (Ex-FAA weather-briefer extraordinaire, Johnny B.
Hyde) needs your donation for use on his mini Fokker D7 replica. The auto fuel
needed for the HKS engine just keeps eating the epoxy resin off of the corks
he has been trying to use on the end of the float wire and I think that a SW
sender float would work great in this application. I would be happy to
reimburse for shipping.
TIA
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WALTER B KERR <jbker(at)juno.com> |
The folks at KLRU and Las Cruces deserve our support.
>
>My two cents!
>
>Jack Lockamy
>RV-7A N174JL
>Camarillo, CA
=====================================
LOE was a great fly-in at KLRU and it is hard to imagine what drove Red,
Doug, Vetterman, etc. to move it. I would think that most people are
going to go with them but will hold my judgement until we see what is at
the other airport and hope that KLRU would host it again in the future if
it does not work out. Would encourage RV'ers to stop at KLRU at any
opportunity and express our thanks to them for their previous efforts.
Bernie Kerr, 6A sold, 9A with rotary powered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How long for Pro Seal |
.................................................Anyone have a good idea how long
I should wait before
I put fuel in it and fly again?.........................................................................................
Mark,
Now that is a very good question. You are likely to get opinions all over the
map on open forums such as this. Play it safe. If it were my fuel tank, I'd
contact a qualified tech rep and get a truly informed response. Short of that,
I'd wait at least a week........based upon personal opinion.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 76 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Fuel Flow Anomaly |
What magnet? I guess mine came out b/4 the magnet trick.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marty" <martorious(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Fuel Flow Anomaly
>
>>Again, why only at cruise with mixture reduction? By the way, I did
>>have those magnets drop off the FAB Box flapper door about a month
>>ago.
>>(Not a great retention design). I got some new ones and glassed them
>>in
>>place, so the door isn't flapping for sure.
>>
>
>
> Don't be so quick here. Perhaps the door is flapping, that could be
> the cause. Now stay with me here. Perhaps at cruise you're drawing
> just enough of a vacuum to overpower the magnet (if you just glassed
> it in, perhaps the glass is thick enough to have lessened the hold of
> the magnet?) When the door opens the vacuum is relieved enough the
> magnet catches and closes the door, thus the fluctuation. Why only at
> cruise? Perhaps the particular cruise setting you use is on the edge
> of the magnets performance envelope. At higher settings the MP is
> such that the bypass door stays open, thus no fluctuations, and just
> the opposite at lower throttle settings, i.e. the door stays closed.
>
> Like others, I'm just shooting ideas into the dark! If you find a way
> to test this, let us know the outcome.
>
>
> Marty in Indiana
> RV-8A Preview plans in Hand
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Louver/Enlarged exhaust cutout area pic |
Did you notice any loss in performance?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Louver/Enlarged exhaust cutout area pic
>
> The louvers were made locally by a hotrod guy (like louvers on the
> hoods of some cars).
>
> http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/Cowl_Louver_Small.jpg
>
> Ron Lee
>
> PS, manly blue isn't it !
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Louver/Enlarged exhaust cutout area pic |
>Did you notice any loss in performance?
I have not done a speed check since I did it but would accept
a mph loss (if even that occurred) to get the temps down.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Fuel Flow Anomaly |
Did you add the free FAB filter bypass kit?
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Fab-sb.pdf
Vans came out with the mod after several engine failures in snow.
Kevin Horton
On 10 Sep 2005, at 08:20, Jeff Dowling wrote:
>
>
> What magnet? I guess mine came out b/4 the magnet trick.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 235 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marty" <martorious(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Fuel Flow Anomaly
>
>
>>
>>
>>> Again, why only at cruise with mixture reduction? By the way, I did
>>> have those magnets drop off the FAB Box flapper door about a month
>>> ago.
>>> (Not a great retention design). I got some new ones and glassed
>>> them
>>> in
>>> place, so the door isn't flapping for sure.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Don't be so quick here. Perhaps the door is flapping, that could be
>> the cause. Now stay with me here. Perhaps at cruise you're drawing
>> just enough of a vacuum to overpower the magnet (if you just glassed
>> it in, perhaps the glass is thick enough to have lessened the hold of
>> the magnet?) When the door opens the vacuum is relieved enough the
>> magnet catches and closes the door, thus the fluctuation. Why
>> only at
>> cruise? Perhaps the particular cruise setting you use is on the edge
>> of the magnets performance envelope. At higher settings the MP is
>> such that the bypass door stays open, thus no fluctuations, and just
>> the opposite at lower throttle settings, i.e. the door stays closed.
>>
>> Like others, I'm just shooting ideas into the dark! If you find a
>> way
>> to test this, let us know the outcome.
>>
>>
>> Marty in Indiana
>> RV-8A Preview plans in Hand
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted on RV list" <ted_french(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Vision Micro System VM1000 template |
Cad dwg of a panel with the cutout in it. This cad dwg was used as the
template for water cutting this panel, so it should be good.. Tha aircraft
is now flying.
Ted French
RV-10 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Struyk
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vision Micro System VM1000 template
Rick,
Mine came with the unit from Vision Microsystems and it's made of metal.
It's up to you, but I'd wait for the metal one (I'm sure they will send you
one) rather than trying to work off a paper template.
If you get your hands on the metal template, you might consider using a
router with a straight, flush cutting (roller guide) bit. I did mine that
way and it works great. The set up is critical but once done it's a snap.
Basically it was is sheet of 3/4 MDF with the template attached to the
bottom and the panel attached to the top. I cut a hole in the MDF slightly
larger than the inside edge of template, but not so large that I could not
mount the template with screws to the bottom of the MDF. I cut, within a 1/4
inch or so, the opening in the panel then screwed the panel, using the
pre-punched holes, to the top of the MDF directly over and exactly where you
want the VM1000 to be. That's the critical part. Once set up, use the router
to follow the metal template around the edge removing the last 1/4 inch of
material.
If you like I can send you some pictures of the jig I built to make the
cut.
One more thing. Today is Friday. If I recall correctly, Vision Micro Systems
is closed on Fridays. It's always something!
Hope this helps.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV-8, N842S
Almost there
----- Original Message -----
From: <RGray67968(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Vision Micro System VM1000 template
>
> Anyone have or know where I can download a template for the instrument
> panel
> cut out for the Vision Micro System VM1000???
>
> I need it 'right now' or I'll have to make my own :
> (.
>
> _http://www.visionmicrosystems.com/_ (http://www.visionmicrosystems.com/)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - RV6 Sold, Finishing RV8 & F1
> Rocket
> under construction.
>
> Please archive this so we can find it later!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted on RV list" <ted_french(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Vision Micro System VM1000 template |
Sorry, forgot link.
Cad dwg of a panel with the cutout in it. This cad dwg was used as the
template for water cutting this panel, so it should be good.. Tha aircraft
is now flying.
Link here: http://www3.telus.net/elfrench/rv6%20no4.html
Ted French
RV-10 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
RGray67968(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Vision Micro System VM1000 template
Anyone have or know where I can download a template for the instrument
panel
cut out for the Vision Micro System VM1000???
I need it 'right now' or I'll have to make my own :
(.
_http://www.visionmicrosystems.com/_ (http://www.visionmicrosystems.com/)
Thanks in advance.
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - RV6 Sold, Finishing RV8 & F1 Rocket
under construction.
Please archive this so we can find it later!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How long for Pro Seal |
Mark...it depends a bit on how hot you mixed it up. It really should be ok
in 4-5 days but be sure you cant leave a fingernail impression in the
sealant before you fuel up. It should feel like hard rubber.
Cheers..
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "mark phipps" <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: How long for Pro Seal
>
> I had to remove and reinstall one of my fuel tank inspection plates today
and sealed it with Pro Seal. Anyone have a good idea how long I should wait
before I put fuel in it and fly again? The day time temps are around 85 and
nights in the mid 50's.
>
> Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A
> >
> >
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need a Sender Float |
Pretty sure I have an old one knocking around the shop. Send a shipping
address and I will see if I can find it.
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Need a Sender Float
>
> If anyone out there in RV-land has an extra float from one of the Stewart
> Warner senders that they would be willing to part with, I would appreciate
> having it. My hangar-mate (Ex-FAA weather-briefer extraordinaire, Johnny
B.
> Hyde) needs your donation for use on his mini Fokker D7 replica. The
auto fuel
> needed for the HKS engine just keeps eating the epoxy resin off of the
corks
> he has been trying to use on the end of the float wire and I think that a
SW
> sender float would work great in this application. I would be happy to
> reimburse for shipping.
>
> TIA
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | How long for Pro Seal |
I had the same question for the same reason earlier this summer. I called a
tech rep at PRC DeSoto and was told not to put gas in the tank until the
sealant was no longer tacky to the touch. It took about 72 hours to become
tack-free.
----Original Message Follows----
From: mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: How long for Pro Seal
Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2005 19:56:08 -0700 (PDT)
I had to remove and reinstall one of my fuel tank inspection plates today
and sealed it with Pro Seal. Anyone have a good idea how long I should wait
before I put fuel in it and fly again? The day time temps are around 85 and
nights in the mid 50's.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A
>
>
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary L. Gembala" <wcruiser1(at)wowway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Forum in NY KFZY Sept 9-10 & 11 |
Dave,
Thanks for the reminder, Deb and I flew up in the TB-20 for the show. Great
day and super turnout.
Always look forward to Oswego.
Gary Gembala
N578RV
RV8A Wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: <rv6160hp(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV Forum in NY KFZY Sept 9-10 & 11
>
> RV Listers remember...another fly in forum in NY is HERE NOW go to:
> WWW>EAACHAPTER486>com
> Find link regarding the RV Forum Weekend of September 9, 10 & 11 2005
>
> Other web rings showing group flights of RV's inbound for the Saturday
showing
> Weather looking very favorable.
>
> Hope to see you there, respectfully
> David McManmon
> RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ExperCraft build log |
| From: | "Robert Riggen" <rob(at)riggen.org> |
Fellow builders,
This is an invite to those who need a method for creating a project log
and Web site.
Even if you've already started your log using another system this one is
worth a look.
ExperCraft Simple Log is free for builders and is a great way to create a
comprehensive log and Web site. It's very easy to use.
http://www.expercraft.com
Enjoy!
Rob
--
Rob Riggen
building a Vans RV7
http://websites.expercraft.com/rriggen
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need a Sender Float |
In a message dated 9/10/2005 8:21:05 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
evmeg(at)snowcrest.net writes:
If anyone out there in RV-land has an extra float from one of the Stewart
> Warner senders that they would be willing to part with, I would appreciate
> having it.
Evan-
Thank you so much. I think this will work well for our situation.
Send to Gary VanRemortel 1963 Badgerwood Ln, Milpitas CA 95035
I will send you shipping by return mail.
-Thx
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 763hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sherri & Paul Richardson" <prichar(at)mail.win.org> |
| Subject: | Oil Leak at Return Line |
Hello All,
I've got an irritating oil leak at the cylinder return lines. It's where the hard
line from the cylinder oil return attaches to the flexible line at the sump,
and is secured by two hand-tightened thumb-screw clamps.
Anyone have that problem?
/Paul Richardson
N106RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Leak at Return Line |
Sherri & Paul Richardson wrote:
>
>Hello All,
>I've got an irritating oil leak at the cylinder return lines. It's where the hard
line from the cylinder oil return attaches to the flexible line at the sump,
and is secured by two hand-tightened thumb-screw clamps.
>
>Anyone have that problem?
>
Been there, done that. Common problem! You can try tightening the hose
clamps to solve the problem. If the short hoses are really dried up,
you'll just have to replace them.
Linn
>/Paul Richardson
>N106RV
>
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re;Oil Leak at Return Line |
If you can't do better - then loosen the clamps and slide the hose in one
direction far enough to wipe some good gasket sealer on the tube , then slide
the other way and do that end. That would be a temporary fix , but might last
quite a while.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical card compass |
I agree with Bobby. I bought mine from Chief and due to concerns of RFI and
magnetic interference chose to mount mine on the glare shield. But it
normally mounts in a hole in the panel. Mine is accurate and has not caused
any problem with 60 hours of flying. I have the Precision model.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
is always beyond our grasp, but which,
if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
Nathanial Hawthorn
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
----- Original Message -----
>
> Those are all panel mounts. If you want to mount it another way you
> purchase that mount seperatly.
> -------
> Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
> RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep |
version=3.0.2
Hey bro, I have lost Mike Stew adr can you give it to me ? Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: <sturdy(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Abilene Formation Clinic, 23-25 Sep
The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by
Stu McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow the sequence previously used at
our other successful formation clinics. The clinic targets RV type
aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and airspeeds will be
considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation backgrounds from
no experience to highly experienced, but all registrants should have
excellent stick and rudder skills. We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little
experience, 1/3 medium experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we
expect participants to be prepared by obtaining and studying referenced
materials. To read clinic info, to register, as well as to make your motel
reservations, go here http:// AtewsST.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html.
We will limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will
be held only until
8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
Stu McCurdy
Falcon Flight
FFI
RV-8
The Abilene Airfest Formation Flying Clinic will be conducted at Abilene
Regional Airport (KABI) on 23-25 Sep. The clinic is being conducted by Stu
McCurdy and Mike Stewart and will follow
the sequence previously used at our other successful formation clinics. The
clinic targets RV type aircraft, but aircraft of similar configuration and
airspeeds will be considered. The clinic is held for pilots of all formation
backgrounds from no experience to highly experienced, but all registrants
should have excellent stick and rudder skills. We generally like a mix of 1/3 no/little experience, 1/3 medium
experience, 1/3 highly experienced. Please note we expect participants to be
prepared by obtaining and studying referenced materials. To read clinic
info, to register, as well as to make your motel reservations, go here
http://bigcountryairfest.org/html/formation_flight_clinic.html. We will
limit total participation. Also, please note the block of rooms will be held
only until 8 Sep, so early registration is encouraged.
Stu McCurdy
Falcon Flight
FFI
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Parallel valve Lyc rocker covers. |
Doing baffles on my Mattituck built (ECI) Lycoming parallel valve 0-360
clone. The rocker covers on the front two cylinders seem to have a
different contour on the angled portions (that make the transition from the
top horizontal portion of the cover to vertical portions). The front
(cylinders) covers seem to have more of a rounded shape and the rear covers
have what seems to be more of straight angle that leaves more room around
the baffle attach screw heads. The net result is that I can NOT fit the
front cylinder baffle reinforcement plates because there is not enough
clearance between the screw hole and rocker cover. It's so close in fact
that I can't even tighten the screw all the way without it hitting the
upturned edge of the cover. I have ground most of one side off of several
1/4 inch AN416 washers and put them under the screw to fill this gap and
hold things tight while I finish the rest of the baffle work. But... will
need to install the reinforcing plates before flying.
Question: are there different shaped rocker covers for the parallel valve
engines and how does one distinguish (describe) between them? Or am I just
being anal and all I need to do is grind a bunch off the reinforcing plates
(it looks like I'd have to grind them down till I practically touch the
screw hole, and the screw won't tighten down on the baffle without the
ground washers so that's why I don't think I have the correct front covers)?
___________________
/
\
This area----------->> /
\
/
\
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|_________________________|
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
There's always something......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Bolt Torque Question... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Matronics website seems to be down so I cannot do a search...
I am putting the AN3 bolts into the fuel tank Z-Brackets through the main spar
and according to the chart these should be torqued at 25
inch pounds. I know I mentioned this before, but it just feels like it is not tight
enough. I can go another half turn after the torque
wrench "clicks" with minimal amount of pressure. Just to make sure it wasnt my
calibration off I have used two torque wrenches.
Anyway, has anyone else been concerned with how loose 25 in. pounds seems to be
on these bolts? I just have the urge to snug them
down... please advise.
P.S. Should I use lock-tite on these bolts?
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <flyingrv(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | New Products from Bob at Fairings-Etc |
This is an Update of new products I've added and now have for sale.
Check out my web site: www.fairings-etc.com
New Items:
Stainless Steel Wheel Pant Brackets
Tip Top Canopy Latch
Wing Root Fairings for the RV- 6, -6A, -7, and -7A.
Thanks
Bob Snedaker
bob@fairings-etc.com
www.fairings-etc.com
623 203 9795
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Need a Sender Float |
Available from Aircraft spruce:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/issgauges.php
Bottom of the page: part number 10-01098, 4.95, ISS Wire Float Arm
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Wings (QB Fuse on hand)
Eggenfellner Subaru H6 on order
N808AF reserved
Alexander City, AL
256-329-2001
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vanremog(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Need a Sender Float
If anyone out there in RV-land has an extra float from one of the Stewart
Warner senders that they would be willing to part with, I would appreciate
having it. My hangar-mate (Ex-FAA weather-briefer extraordinaire, Johnny
B.
Hyde) needs your donation for use on his mini Fokker D7 replica. The auto
fuel
needed for the HKS engine just keeps eating the epoxy resin off of the
corks
he has been trying to use on the end of the float wire and I think that a
SW
sender float would work great in this application. I would be happy to
reimburse for shipping.
TIA
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Torque Question... (not processed: message from valid |
local sender)
On 11 Sep 2005, at 18:22, Matt Johnson wrote:
>
> Matronics website seems to be down so I cannot do a search...
>
> I am putting the AN3 bolts into the fuel tank Z-Brackets through
> the main spar and according to the chart these should be torqued at 25
> inch pounds. I know I mentioned this before, but it just feels like
> it is not tight enough. I can go another half turn after the torque
> wrench "clicks" with minimal amount of pressure. Just to make sure
> it wasnt my calibration off I have used two torque wrenches.
>
> Anyway, has anyone else been concerned with how loose 25 in. pounds
> seems to be on these bolts? I just have the urge to snug them
> down... please advise.
>
> P.S. Should I use lock-tite on these bolts?
>
25 in-lbs is the correct torque. This is the standard torque for AN3
bolts, and it is compatible with the bolt strength and the design
loads for AN3 bolted joints. The standard torque values take into
account the fact that there is additional force put on the bolt once
the design load is applied, in some joints. If you exceed the design
torque, the bolts might be OK in a static condition, but they could
yield if the design load is ever applied. If you decide to exceed
the standard torques, you need to do a bunch of engineering analysis
to determine the additional force on the joint once the design load
is applied. I recommend we leave that task to Van's engineers.
The nutplates should keep the bolts from loosening in service, so
lock-tite shouldn't be needed, in my opinion.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Van's Alternator - 35 Amp Externally Regulated |
Well, I am pretty well read on the RV-List about the captioned regulator by
Phil, Sam, and others. Mine was bought about 2 years ago and I started
flying 5 months and 60 hours ago. I built in a cooling blast tube and
pointed it at the back of the alt. I thought I would not have any problems
like some many others.
This last weekend, my ACS2002 engine monitor by AFS showed no amps being
created on start up after a night of camping out at the annual KR flyin at
Mount Vernon, Ill. It had worked fine 18 hours earlier. I must admit
however that I experienced what some others have reported for a few weeks
prior to the failure -- a faint whining sound that seemed to change and run
with the rpms.
The airport manager/director at Mt. Vernon, Chris Collins and his Father,
Ernie (retired Illinois State Police) helped me try to find a replacement
alternator. Unfortunately I did not go to a library to access the RV-List.
But, Ernie took me to every auto parts store in Mt. Vernon (small town of
about 25,000) and could not come up with a replacement part number. So,
Chris loaned me a battery charger to replace electrons of a few startups
done while debugging the problem and I used the e-buss option in my Lectric
Bob wired plane and flew home for the 30 minute flight. Once home I got on
the List -- I had the answer in 2 minutes. Nippondenso, 1977 Honda Civic
CVCC w/o air, model 14184. What a value the List is. My contribution to
Matte each year is well worth my money.
If anyone is in Mt. Vernon you will be nicely treated by Chris. He even
rolled my plane into a huge hangar and trucked my camping gear to a near by
lake for overnight camping. All at no charge even though I tried. What a
resource the Mt. Vernon airport has in him. Thanks everyone of you that
helped with this solution.
Larry Robert Helming, Evansville, IN, RV7 Tip Up, SunSeeker, E-buss option
tested and working.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
is always beyond our grasp, but which,
if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
Nathanial Hawthorn
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bolt Torque Question... (not processed: message from valid |
local sender)
| From: | "Nuffer, Chuck" <CNuffer(at)it21.com> |
Don't forget to account for the static drag generated by the nutplate or
nylon in your locking system. This can throw your torque pressure off.
You can't really measure this pressure correctly with your typical
clicking torque wrench. We use a snap-on with the gauge.......
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt Torque Question... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
On 11 Sep 2005, at 18:22, Matt Johnson wrote:
>
> Matronics website seems to be down so I cannot do a search...
>
> I am putting the AN3 bolts into the fuel tank Z-Brackets through the
> main spar and according to the chart these should be torqued at 25
> inch pounds. I know I mentioned this before, but it just feels like it
> is not tight enough. I can go another half turn after the torque
> wrench "clicks" with minimal amount of pressure. Just to make sure it
> wasnt my calibration off I have used two torque wrenches.
>
> Anyway, has anyone else been concerned with how loose 25 in. pounds
> seems to be on these bolts? I just have the urge to snug them down...
> please advise.
>
> P.S. Should I use lock-tite on these bolts?
>
25 in-lbs is the correct torque. This is the standard torque for AN3
bolts, and it is compatible with the bolt strength and the design loads
for AN3 bolted joints. The standard torque values take into account the
fact that there is additional force put on the bolt once the design load
is applied, in some joints. If you exceed the design torque, the bolts
might be OK in a static condition, but they could yield if the design
load is ever applied. If you decide to exceed the standard torques, you
need to do a bunch of engineering analysis to determine the additional
force on the joint once the design load is applied. I recommend we
leave that task to Van's engineers.
The nutplates should keep the bolts from loosening in service, so
lock-tite shouldn't be needed, in my opinion.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net> |
I want to thank everyone for there suggestions on my oil temp problems. I went
with Dick Martins solution and have drop my temps from 240 to 195. I put in a
9 row cooler on the #4 baffle where my 7 row was. I set it back 1" on top and
1/2" on the bottom, wow what a difference. Now I can concentrate on the fly off.
Thanks again to everyone. Mark Rose N137MR kit no. 81442
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Torque Question... (not processed: message from valid |
local...
Hi Chuck
Pardon my ignorance, but what is a "snap-on with the guage"? I have only
ever used click-type and vernier gauge torque wrenches.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Empennage (Still)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical card compass |
In a message dated 9/8/05 11:35:24 PM Central Daylight Time,
wgill10(at)comcast.net writes:
> Also, I'd be interested in hearing about the accuracy/reliability from
> those that have a vertical card compass.
>>>
You can see here where mine (PAI-700) is located- very accurate and no
interference from either radio mounted directly below it... I like it a lot!
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5256
(Click on foto for larger view)
Mark Phillips - Columbia, TN - 230 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bolt Torque Question... |
| From: | "Nuffer, Chuck" <CNuffer(at)it21.com> |
Snap-on sells a line of Torque wrenches with a dial to show the
specific amount of torque being applied..... You can see all the details
on the Snap-on website.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=8566&group
_ID=965&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MLWynn(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt Torque Question... (not processed: message
from valid local...
Hi Chuck
Pardon my ignorance, but what is a "snap-on with the guage"? I have
only ever used click-type and vernier gauge torque wrenches.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Empennage (Still)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Torque Question... (not processed: message from valid |
local...
In a message dated 9/12/2005 5:48:58 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
CNuffer(at)it21.com writes:
Don't forget to account for the static drag generated by the nutplate or
nylon in your locking system. This can throw your torque pressure off.
You can't really measure this pressure correctly with your typical
clicking torque wrench. We use a snap-on with the gauge.......
==========================
Actually, it's force, not pressure that we refer to when we torque something
(force at a distance). Pressure is force per unit area.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vision Micro System VM1000 template |
Thanks Ted!
Rick
Sorry, forgot link.
Cad dwg of a panel with the cutout in it. This cad dwg was used as the
template for water cutting this panel, so it should be good.. Tha aircraft
is now flying.
Link here: http://www3.telus.net/elfrench/rv6%20no4.html
Ted French
RV-10 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight of N339A |
I am forwarding this for a friend...
----- Original Message -----
From: sdcmills(at)att.net
Subject: First Flight of N339A
To All,
On 9/11/05 at 6:12 PM, N339A made its maiden flight on a beautiful Colorado evening
with my good friend Ret. Cdr. Dave Petri at the controls. The EIS engine
monitor showed exactly 1:00:00 hour at the completion of the flight. Only issues
were a heavy left wing and a slightly high number 4 CHT.
I owe a great deal of thanks to many people who have helped me along the way with
this project. Dave Petri for being a good friend that is always there when
I need help and for steering me in the right direction. Gary Zilik for all of
his expert RV building advice and "tool crib". Don MacNiven for flying chase allowing
me to see my creation fly and other numerous acts of assistance for which
I am very grateful. And mostly to my wife Debra and daughter Cassandra for
all their help bucking rivets, dimpling, et all--but mostly for putting up with
me for the last 4 years while this project took shape.
As for the date of this first flight, it was not picked--it just happened this
way. The plane and weather were both ready. I am very proud to have flown my airplane
four years after the worst attack on American soil when, at that time,
no one was exactly sure what the future of aviation would be. It is a tribute
to the resolve of this country that we will not be ruled by terrorists. We are
still a free nation in spite of their efforts to change us.
Scott Mills
N339A (now flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight of N339A |
Bill,
Please relay to Scott our
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight of N339A
>Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2005 17:46:41 -0600
>
>
>I am forwarding this for a friend...
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: sdcmills(at)att.net
>Subject: First Flight of N339A
>
>
>To All,
>
>On 9/11/05 at 6:12 PM, N339A made its maiden flight on a beautiful Colorado
>evening with my good friend Ret. Cdr. Dave Petri at the controls.
>
>
>Scott Mills
>
>N339A (now flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Vacuum system problem |
I've got a problem with my vacuum system I can't figure out.
On my first engine start I discovered that the attitude gyro spins right up and
after doing some taxi test, the DG also is working. The problem is with the suction
gauge. Even after removing the panel and re-checking the plumbing, the
suction gauge still does not show any vacuum yet the gyros work fine.
I did a (very unscientific) bench test with a small vacuum cleaner drawing air
through the system and the suction gauge worked just fine and the gyros began
to spin also. But when in the plane, no joy!
I've tried adjusting the regulator but with the same results.
What's going on? It seems to work on the bench but not in the plane.
Any ideas guys?
Thanks in advance.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S
St. Charles, MO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Products from Bob at Fairings-Etc |
I can vouch for Bob's high quality work. I hate working with fiberglass and the
pieces fit very well straight out of the box.
This is an Update of new products I've added and now have for sale.
Check out my web site: www.fairings-etc.com
New Items:
Stainless Steel Wheel Pant Brackets
Tip Top Canopy Latch
Wing Root Fairings for the RV- 6, -6A, -7, and -7A.
Thanks
Bob Snedaker
bob@fairings-etc.com
www.fairings-etc.com
623 203 9795
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum system problem |
In a message dated 9/12/2005 8:12:11 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, you write:
On my first engine start I discovered that the attitude gyro spins right up
and after doing some taxi test, the DG also is working. The problem is with
the suction gauge. Even after removing the panel and re-checking the plumbing,
the suction gauge still does not show any vacuum yet the gyros work fine.
=======================================
The P port goes to your vacuum source line (P stands for Pressure, even
though it is negative pressure or Vacuum). The V port should be left open (V
stands for Vent) to cabin pressure, as the input to the vacuum filter is at
cabin ambient pressure and what you are measuring is pressure drop off the vacuum
regulator relative to the intake.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum system problem |
Are you sure that the gauge is connected properly? Most are marked "P"
and "V", meaning pressure (or suction) and vent. The "V" does not
indicate vacuum. So, the vacuum pump should connect to the "P" and the
"V" is ambient. It's a strange way to mark it and I've seen them
connected backwards many times.
Dave -6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Steve Struyk wrote:
>
>I've got a problem with my vacuum system I can't figure out.
>
>On my first engine start I discovered that the attitude gyro spins right up and
after doing some taxi test, the DG also is working. The problem is with the
suction gauge. Even after removing the panel and re-checking the plumbing, the
suction gauge still does not show any vacuum yet the gyros work fine.
>
>I did a (very unscientific) bench test with a small vacuum cleaner drawing air
through the system and the suction gauge worked just fine and the gyros began
to spin also. But when in the plane, no joy!
>
>I've tried adjusting the regulator but with the same results.
>
>What's going on? It seems to work on the bench but not in the plane.
>
>Any ideas guys?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Steve Struyk
>RV-8, N842S
>St. Charles, MO.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | RV9 leading edges to spar |
I've checked the archives but can't find much but lamentations about the difficulty
of riveting the middle rib on the RV9 leading edge assembly to the spar.
Van's authorizes LP pulled rivets as needed but I'm hoping someone can give some
help with the technique for using all solid rivets on this assembly including
on the very hard to reach middle rib.
For example, are there specific bucking bars (Avery part numbers) that people use?
How does one coach a novice bucker (one with the proper size hand to fit thru the
hole in the spar (likely a wife)) or does one take a different tack?
Bill
Albion, Maine
91037
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sender float |
I have a couple of Stewart Warner float assemblies I no longer need.
1 D-385-B
1 D-385-C
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank <frv6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | EAA690 LZU Lawrenceville, GA |
I'm Frank Reed of Pelham, NH.
A few years ago I bought Charlie Patterson's supurb
RV-6A, N89PC. I'm now forced to sell because my
flying days are over (Cancer) and I would like to see
this airplane go back to LZU where it was born. Many
of you may remember that Charlie spent 4000 hours
building this airplane and his meticulous workmanship.
The airplane has 210 tach hours, (250 Hobbs) since
brand new airframe, brand new O-320 Lycoming and brand
new Hartzell CS prop. All plans, builders logs,
pictures and everything Charlie had from the time he
orderded the kit is included. Day/night VFR.
TAS of 160 knots at altitude on 8.6 gph. Lower
altitudes and power will get 140 knots at about 7gph.
A very fuel efficient airframe, engine and prop
combination.
Just completed a very extensive condition
inspection/annual by the same AI that has done it
since I bought it. He treats it like a standard
airworthyness airplane, nothing experimental fwf.
Stock Lycoming. 3 new tires, brake pads. Much more.
Please contact me offline for more information. I'll
offer a good deal to see this airplane back at LZU but
I do intend to put it in Trade-A-Plane and others who
may be interested are welcome to contact me.
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
TO_ADDRESS_EQ_REAL autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.3
I saw a mount for the 296 that goes in the radio stack at OSH called
"Air Gizmo"...now I can't find it.
Anyone have the contact info for them?
Thanks, John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com.version=3.0.3 |
| Subject: | Re: air gizmo TO_ADDRESS_EQ_REAL autolearn=unavailable |
version=3.0.3
I bought mine from JA Air Center via eBay. Nice unit. Pricey at 100 bucks, but
it would take a year for me to make anything similar that wouldn't look half
as good. Given the small market and development costs, I guess he has it priced
about right. IIRC, there is a web page; try google.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: RV-List: air gizmo TO_ADDRESS_EQ_REAL autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.3
I saw a mount for the 296 that goes in the radio stack at OSH called
"Air Gizmo"...now I can't find it.
Anyone have the contact info for them?
Thanks, John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 leading edges to spar |
Bill in Maine, you asked about coaching a bucker. Well, the only important
thing is that the bucker (and the riveter too for that matter) stay on the
rivet and not get vibrated off. How to do that? I assume you can do it if
you have room and can hold it firmly with two hands.
I like to have the riveter feather in the rivet gun, I mean to slowly pull
the trigger to full on rather than just jerk to full on. The bucker does
not get caught off guard this way. There needs to be good communication
between the riveter and bucker. The riveter puts the rivet in and puts the
gun on the rivet holding pressure on it to keep it in place and says
"READY." The bucker then moves to put the bar on the rivet. Sometimes it
helps to have the bucker tapping the rivet so the riveter can feel that the
bar is on the rivet when it cannot been seen. Bad things happen if the
bucker is not on the rivet or supply sufficient force to stay there. Too
much force by the bucker against the rivet could push the rivet out of the
hole so the riveter needs to hold firm pressure to prevent this. When space
is limited, or bucker is working with one hand, or there is need to protect
surrounding or opposing aluminum from receiving unwanted dings, you should
tape some material around some parts of the bucking bar. I like to use a
piece of a scotch brite pad and keep it on with duct tape. You can hold the
bar with the taped part firmly against the skin with the uncovered part of
the bar on the rivet head. Having it resting against something really helps
control the bar so it doesn't move off the rivet. This is perhaps the most
important part of what I am advising.
When the bucking bar is in place, the word to "GO" is given by the bucker.
A one second burst is usually enough to set the rivet. If for any reason
the bucker does not feel the full force of the rivet gun coming through to
the bar when the gun starts up, the word to "STOP" is given immediately to
stop the harm that will be done otherwise. If the bucker is not sure of
being on the rivet, a tippy tap feathering action by the riveter should be
requested by the bucker that will allow the bucker to feel if the bar is on
the rivet. DO NOT rivet if the bar is not on the rivet or bad things will
happen. Using this technique has reduced my errors to near zero. Better to
use blind/pulled rivet if you cannot get a bucking bar of some sort on the
rivet. Look around at every bucking bar and piece of steel metal you have
if you think you can't buck it. Search the archives for more. People have
used some very interesting things to buck with. Hope this helps.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
is always beyond our grasp, but which,
if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
Nathanial Hawthorn
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV9 leading edges to spar
>
> I've checked the archives but can't find much but lamentations about the
> difficulty of riveting the middle rib on the RV9 leading edge assembly to
> the spar.
>
> Van's authorizes LP pulled rivets as needed but I'm hoping someone can
> give some help with the technique for using all solid rivets on this
> assembly including on the very hard to reach middle rib.
>
> For example, are there specific bucking bars (Avery part numbers) that
> people use?
>
> How does one coach a novice bucker (one with the proper size hand to fit
> thru the hole in the spar (likely a wife)) or does one take a different
> tack?
>
> Bill
> Albion, Maine
> 91037
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Bolt Torque Question... |
I was torqueing rear spinner bolts to hub and for some reason decided to
check calibration of clicker type torque wrench. Found it was off by 8 ft lbs.
on the low side yet. In other words, it would click 8 lbs lo. YMMV, but yeah,
on the spinner I'd like the right torque. I might be anal...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
Subject: RE: RV-List: Bolt Torque Question...
--> RV-List message posted by: bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net
I use a hand squeezer because I don't want to spent the money on a pneumatic
squeezer.
I used a plumbbob and bubble level to be sure the fuselage because I didn't
want to spend the money on the digital levels ($3.69 vs $129 as I recall)
I've read all the messages over the years about torque bolts and
stuff....basically
considering the degree of axis of the earth, the wildcard situation in the
American League, and divide by the Gross National Product of Zimbabwe(g). And
I KNOW I could always buy a better and more expensive tool....but what I've
always done is take the old-fashioned (and cheap) torque wrench (that seems
to
be calibrated properly because my method achieved the same torque as a fellow
RV builder's fancy torque wrench.)......
...put it on the nut and turn. Since Van's chart says the AN3 should be
20-25 inch
pounds, I just leave it at that and align the indicator on the CTW (cheapie
torque wrench) to the midpoint between 0 and 50 on the CTW and stop turning
(using the high end).
Should I plan for this thing to fall from the sky?
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 leading edges to spar |
I like to develop a standard set of words. Assume you have a riveter
and a bucker.
The riveter inserts the rivet into the hole, then holds the gun in
place so the rivet stays where it belongs. He then says "Ready".
The bucker then gets set up. When he's ready, he says "Go".
When riveting, I tend to use short bursts of the gun. I'll then say
"Done" when I'm done pulling the trigger.
The bucker then eyeballs the rivet and says "Good". If the rivet is
too smooshed, he needs to tell the riveter. I don't drill out one
bad rivet unless it's really bad, but you need to know if you over-
hammered the rivet. If it's not flat enough, the bucker can say
something like "one more quick burst" followed by "Go" when the
bucking bar is in place again.
The words themselves don't matter. What matters is a flow of
communication at each step. It's kind of frustrating to insert a
rivet and have the bucker push it back out before you can put the gun
in place. Having short words, and using the same words consistently,
keeps things moving smoothly. You get a real good rhythm going.
"Ready, go, done, good.... Ready, go, done, good."
The bucker needs to know how to use feeler gauges to verify a
properly-smooshed rivet as well as an unsmooshed rivet is of the
proper length. Clearly when riveting the wing skins, you use
different length rivets at some points, so the bucker needs to
recognize when the riveter inserted the wrong size rivet. "Oops,
that one's too short."
-J
On Sep 13, 2005, at 10:21 AM, LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
>
> Bill in Maine, you asked about coaching a bucker. Well, the only
> important
> thing is that the bucker (and the riveter too for that matter) stay
> on the
> rivet and not get vibrated off. How to do that? I assume you can
> do it if
> you have room and can hold it firmly with two hands.
>
> I like to have the riveter feather in the rivet gun, I mean to
> slowly pull
> the trigger to full on rather than just jerk to full on. The
> bucker does
> not get caught off guard this way. There needs to be good
> communication
> between the riveter and bucker. The riveter puts the rivet in and
> puts the
> gun on the rivet holding pressure on it to keep it in place and says
> "READY." The bucker then moves to put the bar on the rivet.
> Sometimes it
> helps to have the bucker tapping the rivet so the riveter can feel
> that the
> bar is on the rivet when it cannot been seen. Bad things happen if
> the
> bucker is not on the rivet or supply sufficient force to stay
> there. Too
> much force by the bucker against the rivet could push the rivet out
> of the
> hole so the riveter needs to hold firm pressure to prevent this.
> When space
> is limited, or bucker is working with one hand, or there is need to
> protect
> surrounding or opposing aluminum from receiving unwanted dings, you
> should
> tape some material around some parts of the bucking bar. I like to
> use a
> piece of a scotch brite pad and keep it on with duct tape. You can
> hold the
> bar with the taped part firmly against the skin with the uncovered
> part of
> the bar on the rivet head. Having it resting against something
> really helps
> control the bar so it doesn't move off the rivet. This is perhaps
> the most
> important part of what I am advising.
>
> When the bucking bar is in place, the word to "GO" is given by the
> bucker.
> A one second burst is usually enough to set the rivet. If for any
> reason
> the bucker does not feel the full force of the rivet gun coming
> through to
> the bar when the gun starts up, the word to "STOP" is given
> immediately to
> stop the harm that will be done otherwise. If the bucker is not
> sure of
> being on the rivet, a tippy tap feathering action by the riveter
> should be
> requested by the bucker that will allow the bucker to feel if the
> bar is on
> the rivet. DO NOT rivet if the bar is not on the rivet or bad
> things will
> happen. Using this technique has reduced my errors to near zero.
> Better to
> use blind/pulled rivet if you cannot get a bucking bar of some sort
> on the
> rivet. Look around at every bucking bar and piece of steel metal
> you have
> if you think you can't buck it. Search the archives for more.
> People have
> used some very interesting things to buck with. Hope this helps.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> " Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
> is always beyond our grasp, but which,
> if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
>
> Nathanial Hawthorn
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: RV9 leading edges to spar
>
>
>>
>> I've checked the archives but can't find much but lamentations
>> about the
>> difficulty of riveting the middle rib on the RV9 leading edge
>> assembly to
>> the spar.
>>
>> Van's authorizes LP pulled rivets as needed but I'm hoping someone
>> can
>> give some help with the technique for using all solid rivets on this
>> assembly including on the very hard to reach middle rib.
>>
>> For example, are there specific bucking bars (Avery part numbers)
>> that
>> people use?
>>
>> How does one coach a novice bucker (one with the proper size hand
>> to fit
>> thru the hole in the spar (likely a wife)) or does one take a
>> different
>> tack?
>>
>> Bill
>> Albion, Maine
>> 91037
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 leading edges to spar |
>Van's authorizes LP pulled rivets as needed but I'm hoping someone can
>give some help with the technique for using all solid rivets on this
>assembly including on the very hard to reach middle rib.
If Van's authorizes it and it is easier to rivet and no one will ever see
it, do that way.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Van Winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Torque Question... (not processed: message from valid |
local sender)
Matt and Kevin
The torque required to overcome the nutplate locking friction needs to be
added to the 25 inch pounds specified to give the proper installation
torque. The same requirement applies to installation of locking nuts.
Otherwise, you are applying insufficient clamp-up force with the bolt or
nut.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt Torque Question... (not processed: message from
valid local sender)
>
> On 11 Sep 2005, at 18:22, Matt Johnson wrote:
>
>>
>> Matronics website seems to be down so I cannot do a search...
>>
>> I am putting the AN3 bolts into the fuel tank Z-Brackets through
>> the main spar and according to the chart these should be torqued at 25
>> inch pounds. I know I mentioned this before, but it just feels like
>> it is not tight enough. I can go another half turn after the torque
>> wrench "clicks" with minimal amount of pressure. Just to make sure
>> it wasnt my calibration off I have used two torque wrenches.
>>
>> Anyway, has anyone else been concerned with how loose 25 in. pounds
>> seems to be on these bolts? I just have the urge to snug them
>> down... please advise.
>>
>> P.S. Should I use lock-tite on these bolts?
>>
>
> 25 in-lbs is the correct torque. This is the standard torque for AN3
> bolts, and it is compatible with the bolt strength and the design
> loads for AN3 bolted joints. The standard torque values take into
> account the fact that there is additional force put on the bolt once
> the design load is applied, in some joints. If you exceed the design
> torque, the bolts might be OK in a static condition, but they could
> yield if the design load is ever applied. If you decide to exceed
> the standard torques, you need to do a bunch of engineering analysis
> to determine the additional force on the joint once the design load
> is applied. I recommend we leave that task to Van's engineers.
>
> The nutplates should keep the bolts from loosening in service, so
> lock-tite shouldn't be needed, in my opinion.
>
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Torque Question... (not processed: message from valid |
local...
The inexpensive bar and pointer type torque wrench is ideal for reading the drag
due to nut tightening. I got a 0-50 in-lb one on ebay. Unfortunately, you
often have to torque things where the pointer cannot be seen. So, I just add
a standard amount that I have found to be typical of the type of fastener I'm
using when I could see the pointer and tighten with the click stop type torque
wrench.
AC43.13 Table 7-1 has recommended torque values for all the size bolts we use.
There are two ranges given depending on whether the bolt is loaded in shear
or stretched longitudinally. The latter value is usually twice the minimum shear
torque. For An3 bolts, it's 20-25 and 40. If the drag is 5 in-lb, you can
tighten the bolt anywhere between 25 and 45 in-lb without worrying about failure
of the bolt or looseness in a shear load. It's the cadmium plating that
makes the things so easy to turn but they're really quite tight. By the way,
don't lubricate the threads with anything, loctite included, as this could lead
to over-tightening and subsequent failure.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Hi John,
I have one of them in my Flying RV-6, but it's holding my now outdated 196.
They are VERY nice. They fit right into a conventional radio stack quite
easily, and still allow you to pop out the GPS to take it home. I just
mounted mine earlier this year when replacing my Skyforce III GPS.
Surprisingly when it was done, the swap is barely noticable!
Price is right around $100.00, which is a pretty fair deal. I had built my
own previously, and given the time it took to do a decent job, this is a
great little gizmo. Also, it makes the portable GPS look very nice mounted
in the panel. Contact me off list if you need more details.
Last but not least, they are created and made by a fellow RV builder (Mike
Schipper), and they're developing a whole line of panel mounts for "goodies"
in your plane. Great guys with a great idea, so I'm happy to support them.
Just my 2 cents!
Cheers,
Stein.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Huft
> Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2005 9:01 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: air gizmo TO_ADDRESS_EQ_REAL autolearn=unavailable
> version=3.0.3
>
>
> I saw a mount for the 296 that goes in the radio stack at OSH called
> "Air Gizmo"...now I can't find it.
>
> Anyone have the contact info for them?
>
> Thanks, John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9 leading edges to spar |
Thanks very much to all of you who responded to my request for help with the
leading edge/spar riveting. Tomorrow's the day. I'm feeling much more
hopeful about it now.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Larson" <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV9 leading edges to spar
>
> I like to develop a standard set of words. Assume you have a riveter
> and a bucker.
>
> The riveter inserts the rivet into the hole, then holds the gun in
> place so the rivet stays where it belongs. He then says "Ready".
>
> The bucker then gets set up. When he's ready, he says "Go".
>
> When riveting, I tend to use short bursts of the gun. I'll then say
> "Done" when I'm done pulling the trigger.
>
> The bucker then eyeballs the rivet and says "Good". If the rivet is
> too smooshed, he needs to tell the riveter. I don't drill out one
> bad rivet unless it's really bad, but you need to know if you over-
> hammered the rivet. If it's not flat enough, the bucker can say
> something like "one more quick burst" followed by "Go" when the
> bucking bar is in place again.
>
> The words themselves don't matter. What matters is a flow of
> communication at each step. It's kind of frustrating to insert a
> rivet and have the bucker push it back out before you can put the gun
> in place. Having short words, and using the same words consistently,
> keeps things moving smoothly. You get a real good rhythm going.
>
> "Ready, go, done, good.... Ready, go, done, good."
>
> The bucker needs to know how to use feeler gauges to verify a
> properly-smooshed rivet as well as an unsmooshed rivet is of the
> proper length. Clearly when riveting the wing skins, you use
> different length rivets at some points, so the bucker needs to
> recognize when the riveter inserted the wrong size rivet. "Oops,
> that one's too short."
>
> -J
>
> On Sep 13, 2005, at 10:21 AM, LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Bill in Maine, you asked about coaching a bucker. Well, the only
> > important
> > thing is that the bucker (and the riveter too for that matter) stay
> > on the
> > rivet and not get vibrated off. How to do that? I assume you can
> > do it if
> > you have room and can hold it firmly with two hands.
> >
> > I like to have the riveter feather in the rivet gun, I mean to
> > slowly pull
> > the trigger to full on rather than just jerk to full on. The
> > bucker does
> > not get caught off guard this way. There needs to be good
> > communication
> > between the riveter and bucker. The riveter puts the rivet in and
> > puts the
> > gun on the rivet holding pressure on it to keep it in place and says
> > "READY." The bucker then moves to put the bar on the rivet.
> > Sometimes it
> > helps to have the bucker tapping the rivet so the riveter can feel
> > that the
> > bar is on the rivet when it cannot been seen. Bad things happen if
> > the
> > bucker is not on the rivet or supply sufficient force to stay
> > there. Too
> > much force by the bucker against the rivet could push the rivet out
> > of the
> > hole so the riveter needs to hold firm pressure to prevent this.
> > When space
> > is limited, or bucker is working with one hand, or there is need to
> > protect
> > surrounding or opposing aluminum from receiving unwanted dings, you
> > should
> > tape some material around some parts of the bucking bar. I like to
> > use a
> > piece of a scotch brite pad and keep it on with duct tape. You can
> > hold the
> > bar with the taped part firmly against the skin with the uncovered
> > part of
> > the bar on the rivet head. Having it resting against something
> > really helps
> > control the bar so it doesn't move off the rivet. This is perhaps
> > the most
> > important part of what I am advising.
> >
> > When the bucking bar is in place, the word to "GO" is given by the
> > bucker.
> > A one second burst is usually enough to set the rivet. If for any
> > reason
> > the bucker does not feel the full force of the rivet gun coming
> > through to
> > the bar when the gun starts up, the word to "STOP" is given
> > immediately to
> > stop the harm that will be done otherwise. If the bucker is not
> > sure of
> > being on the rivet, a tippy tap feathering action by the riveter
> > should be
> > requested by the bucker that will allow the bucker to feel if the
> > bar is on
> > the rivet. DO NOT rivet if the bar is not on the rivet or bad
> > things will
> > happen. Using this technique has reduced my errors to near zero.
> > Better to
> > use blind/pulled rivet if you cannot get a bucking bar of some sort
> > on the
> > rivet. Look around at every bucking bar and piece of steel metal
> > you have
> > if you think you can't buck it. Search the archives for more.
> > People have
> > used some very interesting things to buck with. Hope this helps.
> >
> > Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
> >
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > " Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
> > is always beyond our grasp, but which,
> > if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
> >
> > Nathanial Hawthorn
> > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth(at)gwi.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: RV9 leading edges to spar
> >
> >
> >>
> >> I've checked the archives but can't find much but lamentations
> >> about the
> >> difficulty of riveting the middle rib on the RV9 leading edge
> >> assembly to
> >> the spar.
> >>
> >> Van's authorizes LP pulled rivets as needed but I'm hoping someone
> >> can
> >> give some help with the technique for using all solid rivets on this
> >> assembly including on the very hard to reach middle rib.
> >>
> >> For example, are there specific bucking bars (Avery part numbers)
> >> that
> >> people use?
> >>
> >> How does one coach a novice bucker (one with the proper size hand
> >> to fit
> >> thru the hole in the spar (likely a wife)) or does one take a
> >> different
> >> tack?
> >>
> >> Bill
> >> Albion, Maine
> >> 91037
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Clark <jclarkmail(at)gmail.com> |
Try http://www.airgizmos.com .
They are also available from Van's.
James
>
> I saw a mount for the 296 that goes in the radio stack at OSH called
> "Air Gizmo"...now I can't find it.
>
> Anyone have the contact info for them?
>
> Thanks, John
>
>
--
This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
james(at)nextupventures.com .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Anyone know of a source for an aluminum 1/2" 3-way diverter valve,
preferably with flared fittings but NPT is tolerable. I've Googled it
but all I get is 500 Taiwan and Chinese manufacturers that want to sell
be everything known to man, except what I need.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | re: Bolt Torque Question... |
I searched high and low on the internet for AC43.13-1b and found that
all links to the pdf files were no longer good. Seems the FAA does not
want to give this information away anymore. Anyway, I did find Gil
Alexanders page where he quotes AC43.13-1A on the proper torqueing of AN
bolts. In short the tables list proper torque values for the different
nuts we use and there is no mention as to compensating for the locking
feature of the nut. So get a copy of the publication (if you don't have
one already) and look up bolt torque values; different nuts on the same
bolt get different torque values.
Also get a good torque wrench. Made in USA is preferable.
Gary
Using Nylon Threads
by Gil Alexander
... here it is!! ... straight from the FAA mechanics bible ....
AC43.13-1A "Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices - Aircraft
Inspection, Repair and Alteration"
Notes
1. Torque for clean, dry threads - no lubrication.
2. You can use the manufacturer's recommendations (if you can find
them!), measure the prevailing torque from the fibre locking ring,
and add this torque to the recommended torque... OR ... you can
use the figures from the table (quoted below) and just use them as
a final torque.
3. Apply a smooth, even pull, if any jerking motion occurs, back off
and re-torque.
4. Fibre lock nuts can be re-used any number of times, as long as the
nut cannot be turned by finger pressure.
5. Do not use fibre locking nuts on bolts with a drilled cotter pin
holes in sizes less than 5/16. At 5/16 and above, make sure no
burrs exist around the drilled hole.
6. Self-locking nut/bolt combinations with NO cotter pin ARE OK for
control systems as long as they clamp on an inner race of a
bearing, and the bolt itself is not used as a pivot. This is the
general RV control system arrangement, but there are exceptions.
SELECTED TORQUE VALUES from AC43.13-1A Chapter 5
AN bolt, AN365 nut (the usual RV combination)
#10 (AN3) 20-25 in.-lbs.
1/4 (AN4) 50-70 in.-lbs.
AN bolt, AN364 thin locknut
#10 (AN3) 12-15 in.-lbs.
1/4 (AN4) 30-40 in.-lbs.
If you use a high strength bolt (such as NAS1300 series) with AN365
locknut
#10 (AN3) 25-30 in.-lbs.
1/4 (AN4) 80-100 in.-lbs.
The all metal locknuts are usually rated the same as the AN365 fibre
locknut.
OK .. for all of you who are not convinced by the FAA recommendations,
Aircraft Spruce offers a "Belt and Braces" approach. They sell MS17825
self-locking castle nuts. This gives the best of both worlds, fibre
locking AND a cotter pin, but at about a $1.00 each.
Get a copy of AC43.13, or borrow one from your friendly FAA Mechanic,
it's well worth reading.
Gil Alexander RV6A #20701
Go back to Hovan's Home Page
<http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/hovan/home.html>
--
Gary Zilik, Sr. Geophysicist zilik(at)excelgeo.com
Excel Geophysical Services, Inc. phone: 303.694.9629
5690 DTC Blvd, Suite 330W fax: 303.771.1641
Greenwood Village, CO 80411 http://www.excelgeo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo(at)verizon.net> |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
Who will be the lucky winner? I was called a couple of days ago and
told that my QB was ready for delivery. Well, you can imagine that I
was excited. But I began to do a study of my life over the next several
months and realized that I really wasn't ready for the QB yet. I am
ret. military and now teach high school and coach girl's soccer. This
is getting to be a busy time of the year, not to mention the fact that
my son is getting married soon and we are play, and paying a small part
in that. Today I called Vans and gave up my QB to some lucky person. I
thought it best not to take it and have it sit in my garage when someone
could have it and get flying sooner. So whoever the lucky person is out
there that gets a call today or tomorrow with news that someone turned
down a delivery, you're welcome.
I hope to get the thing on it's way here before the 1st of the year
because in Jan. the price goes up.
Happy building.
Rick Leach
#40397
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Bolt Torque Question... |
On 14 Sep 2005, at 15:42, Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> I searched high and low on the internet for AC43.13-1b and found that
> all links to the pdf files were no longer good. Seems the FAA does not
> want to give this information away anymore. Anyway, I did find Gil
> Alexanders page where he quotes AC43.13-1A on the proper torqueing
> of AN
> bolts. In short the tables list proper torque values for the different
> nuts we use and there is no mention as to compensating for the locking
> feature of the nut. So get a copy of the publication (if you don't
> have
> one already) and look up bolt torque values; different nuts on the
> same
> bolt get different torque values.
>
The links on the FAA site are still good. Go to:
http://www.faa.gov/
Click on "Regulations & Policies". Click on "Advisory Circulars".
Search for "43.13-1B" in the search box.
The torque info is in Chapter 7. There is a lot of info there, but
it does say "check the friction drag torque required to turn the
nut. .... Add the friction drag torque to the
desired torque. This is referred to as final torque, which should
register on the indicator or setting for a snap-over type torque
wrench."
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Bolt Torque Question... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Can someone with a dial type torque wrench give us some averages of what the friction
drag usually is? an AN3 nut into a nutplate
would be 5lbs? 10lbs? I am sure it is pretty standard so it would be nice if someone
could just share it with the rest of us. I would guess
that with a locknut it would be maybe double than a nutplate???
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 17:34:18 -0400
Subject: Re: RV-List: re: Bolt Torque Question...
>
> On 14 Sep 2005, at 15:42, Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> >
> > I searched high and low on the internet for AC43.13-1b and found that
> > all links to the pdf files were no longer good. Seems the FAA does
> not
> > want to give this information away anymore. Anyway, I did find Gil
> > Alexanders page where he quotes AC43.13-1A on the proper torqueing
> > of AN
> > bolts. In short the tables list proper torque values for the
> different
> > nuts we use and there is no mention as to compensating for the
> locking
> > feature of the nut. So get a copy of the publication (if you don't
> > have
> > one already) and look up bolt torque values; different nuts on the
> > same
> > bolt get different torque values.
> >
>
> The links on the FAA site are still good. Go to:
>
> http://www.faa.gov/
>
> Click on "Regulations & Policies". Click on "Advisory Circulars".
> Search for "43.13-1B" in the search box.
>
> The torque info is in Chapter 7. There is a lot of info there, but
> it does say "check the friction drag torque required to turn the
> nut. .... Add the friction drag torque to the
> desired torque. This is referred to as final torque, which should
> register on the indicator or setting for a snap-over type torque
> wrench."
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bifocal glasses. |
bertrv6(at)highstream.net wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
>I haves to get a new prescription, the ones I have had in the past, are
>the plastic frames...
>
> I tought this time I get the real thin metal? support legs?
>instead, they might be better or feel better, with the Head set.....
>
> Any comments on this,necessity?
>
>
>Bert
>rv6a
>
Last year I 'upgraded' to rimless frames with progressive bifocals &
super light lenses with anti glare coating. My next pair will probably
have the top rim because the little 2-hole attachment of the temples &
bridge gets in my vision. You will get widely varying opinions on
progressive lenses; I love mine. With a slight head tilt, I can see from
miles away through arm's length to within inches of my nose. The
downside is that anything more than a few degrees to the left or right
is out of focus, requiring more head turning (poor peripheral vision).
The anti glare coating is really worth the money to me. The light weight
is great; I've got a pair of normal weight lenses & can't wear them any
more. Thin metal temple pieces definitely help headset earcup sealing.
FWIW...
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Bolt Torque Question... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
Dial type, digital or other if they are calibrated correctly will not make enough
difference to notice. I can email you the FAA specs if you need them...
Darrell
Matt Johnson wrote:
Can someone with a dial type torque wrench give us some averages of what the friction
drag usually is? an AN3 nut into a nutplate
would be 5lbs? 10lbs? I am sure it is pretty standard so it would be nice if someone
could just share it with the rest of us. I would guess
that with a locknut it would be maybe double than a nutplate???
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Horton
Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 17:34:18 -0400
Subject: Re: RV-List: re: Bolt Torque Question...
>
> On 14 Sep 2005, at 15:42, Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> >
> > I searched high and low on the internet for AC43.13-1b and found that
> > all links to the pdf files were no longer good. Seems the FAA does
> not
> > want to give this information away anymore. Anyway, I did find Gil
> > Alexanders page where he quotes AC43.13-1A on the proper torqueing
> > of AN
> > bolts. In short the tables list proper torque values for the
> different
> > nuts we use and there is no mention as to compensating for the
> locking
> > feature of the nut. So get a copy of the publication (if you don't
> > have
> > one already) and look up bolt torque values; different nuts on the
> > same
> > bolt get different torque values.
> >
>
> The links on the FAA site are still good. Go to:
>
> http://www.faa.gov/
>
> Click on "Regulations & Policies". Click on "Advisory Circulars".
> Search for "43.13-1B" in the search box.
>
> The torque info is in Chapter 7. There is a lot of info there, but
> it does say "check the friction drag torque required to turn the
> nut. .... Add the friction drag torque to the
> desired torque. This is referred to as final torque, which should
> register on the indicator or setting for a snap-over type torque
> wrench."
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
>
>
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
The AOPA is REALLY good at kicking some Oklahoma City a** on medicals that
are "under review". At the very least, everyone should leave an FAA medical
with either a certificate or a reason why not.
Here's the URL
https://www.aopa.org/members/medical/status_request.cfm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darrell Reiley
Subject: Re: RV-List: Renew medical
-->
With no past or recent medical issues your doctor should issue you a medical
upon exam. This has been my experience for the last 15 years...
Darrell
bertrv6(at)highstream.net wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Janes <b_janes(at)telus.net> |
Thinking about buying my son a gps. He is a new flyer. Can anybody
recommend (or not) the garmin 96?
I'm also looking at the garmin 196. Thanks for any help.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Renew medical |
In a message dated 9/14/2005 6:40:24 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net writes:
The AOPA is REALLY good at kicking some Oklahoma City a** on medicals that
are "under review". At the very least, everyone should leave an FAA medical
with either a certificate or a reason why not.
Here's the URL
https://www.aopa.org/members/medical/status_request.cfm
=======================================
Yeah, right. They made nary a peep while CAMI had mine tied up for 3
months. I contacted AOPA twice and never heard back from them. What may work
is
calling CAMI everyday to ask the status of your medical. The phone number is
405-954-4821.
What seems to be happening is that denials of medicals are increasingly
being challenged by the pilots in order to ensure that they meet the letter of
the law regarding sport pilot medical self certification when they exit the GA
system and move on. Also there were recent findings of medical incompetency
regarding several dozen west coast pilots when disability records were cross
referenced with pilot records and the FAA got a bad rep there.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor Mills" <millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au> |
I have seen photo's somewhere of an RV8 fuselage between 2 stands that allowed
it to be rolled,
Can anyone help me with plans or photo's that would help me copy the idea ?
After 2 lower back operations I am hoping this will help.
Thanks
Trevor Mills 80605.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Desired engine offset for p-factor |
Hi,
Does anyone know what the desired engine offset would
be in degrees for an RV8? The cowl seems to assume some
right offset for p-factor, but I'm curious if there is a
magic number.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Hello Trevor,
For my 6-A I did exactly what you describe for the very same reason (ouch!).
I used an engine stand with a set of angle brackets in the form of an X that
bolted on at the four corner engine mount firewall bolt holes.
For the rear support I made a bracket that bolted onto the rear bulkhead
utilizing the existing holes in the bulkhead. I made an adjustable height
stand using thin wall steel tubing with a hole in it to accept a 3/8th inch
shaft that was welded to the rear bulkhead bracket.
The engine stand I used was one I built before I retired. It is quite a bit
taller than the store bought types I see being used by others. I will
suggest that you get a welder to extend the height of the store bought type
such that the pivot on the engine mount would be at about waist height.
Doing so will make it much easier to sit on a short stool under the fuse
when it is set in the upside down position.
I did almost all of the internal structure ( back drilling, interior floors,
fuel lines, etc.) sitting under or beside the fuse as need required
I don't have pictures to show but I could send you a few hand drawn drawings
to give a general idea of the structures required later next week when I
return from a brief travel.
I expect that someone will supply a URL or some photos etc.in the meantime.
Jim in Kelowna, painting is happening
----- Original Message -----
From: "Trevor Mills" <millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: Fuse roller
>
> I have seen photo's somewhere of an RV8 fuselage between 2 stands that
> allowed it to be rolled,
> Can anyone help me with plans or photo's that would help me copy the idea
> ?
> After 2 lower back operations I am hoping this will help.
>
> Thanks
>
> Trevor Mills 80605.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Bob,
The 295s are also available on the used and discounted (new) market - EBay
and others (ie Discount GPS .com). If you can strech it - the 296 would
provide alot of additional features, such as terrain avoidance info.
Chuck
>From: Bob Janes <b_janes(at)telus.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: garmin gps
>Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2005 20:14:51 -0700
>
>
>Thinking about buying my son a gps. He is a new flyer. Can anybody
>recommend (or not) the garmin 96?
>I'm also looking at the garmin 196. Thanks for any help.
>Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alan(at)reichertech.com |
Here is a link to an MSWord Document which lists a number of FAA TOs
and links to them. AC43.13-1 is included in this list (near the
bottom of page 3:
http://www.faa.gov/other_visit/aviation_industry/designees_delegations/regs_policy/media/ac_list.doc
Following the AC43-13-1 link will take you to a page where you can
download sections of the TO in PDF format.
- Alan
--
Alan Reichert
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Final Assembly of Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers,
Starting Rudder and Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
Trevor
Check out jeff's B. sight at www.jeffsrv-7a.com. You will also find it
under the 7A web sights on Van's links.
Frank @ SGU and SLC
>From: "Trevor Mills" <millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Fuse roller
>Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2005 14:44:37 +1000
>
>
>I have seen photo's somewhere of an RV8 fuselage between 2 stands that
>allowed it to be rolled,
>Can anyone help me with plans or photo's that would help me copy the idea ?
>After 2 lower back operations I am hoping this will help.
>
>Thanks
>
>Trevor Mills 80605.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Discount on RockAuto Parts! |
Here's a discount code (297419282708) for 5% off at www.rockauto.com. I
bought my NGK BR8ES spark plugs there (cheap!!). They have a lot of stuff
that RVators might be interested in.
Enjoy the 5% discount!
(I am *NOT* affiliated with Rock Auto.)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (622 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <service(at)rockauto.com>
Subject: Discount on RockAuto Parts!
> Thank you for being a www.RockAuto.com customer!
>
> To show our appreciation, we would like to give you and your friends a
> special discount on auto parts.
>
> Here's how it works:
>
> - You give this discount code: 297419282708 to friends, neighbors,
> relatives, the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars
> or trucks.
> - When someone (including yourself) places an order at www.rockauto.com
> and enters your discount code, he or she will receive an immediate 5%
> discount on that order.
> * If you are using our Java Catalog, enter your discount code in the "How
> did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart
> * If you are using our non-Java Catalog, enter your the discount code in
> the "Discount Code" field of the Shopping Cart and click "Calculate
> Discount"
> - The discount code expires on November 15, 2005; so don't wait!
>
> You may use this discount code as often as you wish until it expires, but
> only one discount code can be used per order.
>
> **Each month we see people who put the word "discount" in front of their
> code and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code.**
>
> Please call or email if you have questions or suggestions. Thanks again
> for buying your auto parts at RockAuto!
>
> Tom Taylor
> VP Marketing
> www.rockauto.com
> service(at)rockauto.com
> 1-866-ROCKAUTO (1-866-762-5288)
> (608) 661-1376
>
>
> If you no longer want to receive discounts or any other mail from
> RockAuto, click on the link below:
> http://www.rockauto.com/emaillist/emailunsub.php?step=remove&email=dan@rvproject.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Desired engine offset for p-factor |
It's built into the engine mount. Can't remember the exact figure but 1.5
degrees sounds familiar.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: Desired engine offset for p-factor
>
> Hi,
>
> Does anyone know what the desired engine offset would
> be in degrees for an RV8? The cowl seems to assume some
> right offset for p-factor, but I'm curious if there is a
> magic number.
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 finishing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | al.herron(at)Aerojet.com (Herron, Al) |
| Subject: | Re: Renew medical |
> Hi:
>
> Just tought, maybe some one there have some experience on getting
> the medical renew, faster than I have experience this year..
>
> It has been exactly,2months and 2 weeks now., ant they keep telling me
is
> on review....
>
> No medical problems.
If you have no medical problems, I don't understand why your AME deferred your
medical, you should have walked out
of the office with it.
You want to avoid a deferral if at all possible. According to my AME, a large
number of the usual FAA medical
reviewers are currently over in Iraq and that's why it's taking so long to get
anything out of Oke City. I don't
know if that's true or not, just what I was told.
I had some minor medication issues for the first time this year, and I found the
key to not getting a referral
was to coordinate with the AME ahead of time to make sure I had all the paperwork
in order before I showed up.
He gave me a list of what he wanted from my personal physician. The only glitch
was that the AME wanted some
information in the form of a letter, and my doctor had given him a list instead,
but a quick phone call to my
doctor and a FAX back to the AME solved the problem. I'm good for two years and
next time should be easier (unless
something else falls apart, gettin' old's a b**ch, ain't it?)
Al Herron
RV-7A, working on the panel
"Lost" in the Sierras
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
>>>>>>>>>>>>
Not an -8, but here's what I did on my -6A:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5373
If interested, I have more fotos of the hardware...
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
I have a 196. Fabulous machine and should be able to find new for $700, used
for $500 on eBay.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville,OR
Thinking about buying my son a gps. He is a new flyer. Can anybody
recommend (or not) the garmin 96?
I'm also looking at the garmin 196. Thanks for any help.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <RV-6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Need brushes for flap motor |
A few days ago my flaps quit working again.
So I opened up the motor to clean it up.
In doing so I managed to break one of the brushes (insert 4 letter word
here).
I called van's and they said they couldn't help me but gave me the
number of Usher Industries.
The fellow I talked to there said he didn't think he could get just the
brushes but he would check into it and call me back.
I haven't herd back yet.
Anybody got any ideas where I can get brushes?
Bud Newhall
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need brushes for flap motor |
Wentworth Aircraft had an RV9 that was hurricane damaged. They might sell you the
flap motor as a salvage part. Give them a call...
Darrell
Bud Newhall wrote:
A few days ago my flaps quit working again.
So I opened up the motor to clean it up.
In doing so I managed to break one of the brushes (insert 4 letter word
here).
I called van's and they said they couldn't help me but gave me the
number of Usher Industries.
The fellow I talked to there said he didn't think he could get just the
brushes but he would check into it and call me back.
I haven't herd back yet.
Anybody got any ideas where I can get brushes?
Bud Newhall
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Bob:
You left some info out, but by new flyer I assume he is a private pilot and will
be flying Rental planes or His own plane?
Here is Garmins web site: http://www.garmin.com/aviation/products.html#portable
You can look at each model (current and past). Some models have been discontinued
but are available at discount on the web or eBay. Dealer prices on used equipment
is too high. eBay is a good place for a used GPS. Many people upgrade to
new color models (296/396) making the 195/196 a bargain. Even the 296 color
is often found used as people upgrade to the 396. I would not upgrade to the 396
unless you are ready to pay for the X-M radio weather service which cost $30
a month. Unless he is flying cross-country all the time I would not buy a new
pilot a 396.
First a portable GPS is almost a must have now a days. You choice of the Garmin
brand is pretty much a sure bet. The models you may consider are:
GPS III pilot (compact, discontinued)
96 (compact)
96c (color)
195 (discontinued)
295 (color discontinued)
196
296 (color)
396 (color, terrain, wx)
They are all good, money, screen size, color is most of the factor. the older GPSIII
and 195 are a little slower to refresh the screan if you zoom in or out
but this is a minor issue.
I have a Garmin 195 and love it. The are not made any more but they sell for about
$300-$350 on the used market. It is like a 196, which is a newer model, but
it is also has a B&W screen, which is orientated horizontal vs. vertical. The
older models like the 195, 196 are available on the used market as people upgrade
to the color models like the 296 and 396.
Color is nice but not needed. You can buy a used GPS for $300 to $2,500 for a new
396. They all do about the same thing. Even the older GPSIII and GPS 195 have
airspace warning and airport data (freq and runway info). How much do you love
you Son and how much money do you have : - )
Given the choice the 196 is a better choice in my opinion than the 96/c. However
the 196 is a bigger piece of equipment to haul around if he is jumping in different
planes such as in a rental situation. If he owns a plane than the bigger
screen is to me much better than the tiny 96 screen. For the price of a new
96 you can buy a used 195/196.
The other good value brand is Lowrance http://www.lowrance.com/Aviation/
You can get a map Lowrance 500 or map 1000 deeply discounted new or used (eBay)
for less the $500.
>Match: #4
>Message: #133317
>Date: Sep 14, 2005
>
>From: Bob Janes <b_janes(at)telus.net>
>Subject: garmin gps
>
>Thinking about buying my son a gps. He is a new flyer. Can anybody recommend (or
>not) the garmin 96? I'm also looking at the garmin 196. Thanks for any help.
Bob
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Bob,
I have to jump in with my two cents. As a 3+ year, 500 hour
pilot I can not imagine flying w/o my Garmin GPS. I started with the 295
(Color) and as soon as I saw the 296 my 295 was on ebay. The 295 was an
excellent unit but the 296 is so much faster and clearer and just a
better form factor that the difference in price was worth it (to me). I
never considered the 196 due to the B/W screen however if forced to
choose I would go with the 196 over the 295. In no case would I choose
any of the small screen units. The amount of valuable info available on
the units I mentioned and the speed at which you can move through the
screens makes them the best choice for function & safety(IMHO). So in
order of preference for me I would select:
296
196
195
Drive
Cheers to you for supporting your sons flying.
Robin
RV-4 (Turbo Lance II, D-35 Bonanza)
200 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom & Carol Strong <tstrong(at)ida.net> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Turn Coordinator |
I have a new, never powered up, TC from from Aircraft Spruce.
It is 3 1/8" non-TSO'd unlighted and electric. P/N 10-22510
I'd be happy to let it go for $250 + shipping.
Tom Strong RV9A wiring
email me at; tstrong(at)ida.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking for RV-8 Owner with large LCD Panel Display |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Dear Listers,
There is a well known -8 owner that has a site featuring his
plane including custom panel that includes a PC and large LCD display
etc... Can anyone send me a link to his site? I have been looking for a
few days and can not find it again.
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4
200 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor" <davist(at)xsinet.co.za> |
| Subject: | Fw: mis-alligned E-703 elevator rib |
There were, if I remember correctly, 2 or 3 reports about the E-703 rib not lining
up on the elevator. I have experienced this exact same problem. Tried swopping
the two sides around and found that the one fits either side perfectly but
the other is definately out. I asked Vans at Oshkosh but their reply was that
it couldn't be as they were stamped out by machine. I was wondering how others
resolved the problem as I don't recall seeing any solutions published. My
fix was to shim up to 1/8" on one side of the rib. It was not too appealing,
but did manage to get the twist out (almost) Should have ordered a new one
from Van's, but being on the other side of the world, we tend to "make it fit"
rather than wait months for something that probably will get lost in the post
after paying double the value in postage, shipping and customs!
Thanks
Trevor Davis
RV-7 (South Africa)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for RV-8 Owner with large LCD Panel Display |
I think you are talking about a Rocket: http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/index.html
He has a large screen and drives it with a small custom computer running windows and running RMS Technology Flight Planning & Moving Map Software: http://www.rmstek.com/ , since he describes how he made it and the lessons learned I think this might help.
I have every RV-8 site in my favorite list and the only thing I recall is one with
Dual GRT EFIS. I am sure there are a few Blue Mountain's out there also.
Good Luck G
>Subject: Looking for RV-8 Owner with large LCD Panel Display
>Date: Sep 17, 2005
>From: "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com>
>
>Dear Listers,
>There is a well known -8 owner that has a site featuring his
>plane including custom panel that includes a PC and large LCD display
>etc... Can anyone send me a link to his site? I have been looking for a
>few days and can not find it again.
>
>Thanks,Robin RV-4 200 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Wheel pant balancing fiasco |
I tried this using lead shot in the front of each wheel pant and on the first
flight the gear leg shimmy was worst than before and even the main gear
displayed a vibration that I never noticed before.
So now I am taking beaucoup time to remove the lead shot that was
epoxied in. So if anyone does this I suggest placing the lead shot in
the nose, cover with a layer of aluminum foil then add appropriate
fiberglass to secure. Then if it does not work, a simple drill through the
fiberglass will allow the lead shot to come out easily.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant balancing fiasco |
Ron:
Thanks for taking the time to write.
What model of RV?
How bad was the shimmy before?
How much lead did you use?
What axis did you balance about (the landing gear axial?)
I was under the impression this would help, as you where obviously. At worst I
was under the impression the effect would be no change, not WORST!
I was thinking of doing wheel pant balancing out of the box, before first flight,
but now I think i'll wait.
Any other advice or thoughts on why this made your shimmy worst? Did you do additional
flight and adjust air pressure?
Thanks G
>From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
>Subject: RV-List: Wheel pant balancing fiasco
>
>
>I tried this using lead shot in the front of each wheel pant and on the first
>flight the gear leg shimmy was worst than before and even the main gear
>displayed a vibration that I never noticed before.
>
>So now I am taking beaucoup time to remove the lead shot that was
>epoxied in. So if anyone does this I suggest placing the lead shot in
>the nose, cover with a layer of aluminum foil then add appropriate
>fiberglass to secure. Then if it does not work, a simple drill through the
>fiberglass will allow the lead shot to come out easily.
>
>Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A mainwheel base dimension |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
Folks,
I've checked the archives and have some partial answers....
What I am looking for is the center-of-tread to center-of tread distance between
the main landing gear for an O360 CS equipped RV6A that is flying.
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Jeff Rose / Electroair |
Can someone that has had experience with Jeff Rose's Electroair electronic
ignition please drop me a line off-line. I'd like to hear your thoughts on
the system.
Regards,
David Schaefer
N142DS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A mainwheel base dimension |
In a message dated 9/18/2005 7:11:57 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
What I am looking for is the center-of-tread to center-of tread distance
between the main landing gear for an O360 CS equipped RV6A that is flying.
82"
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: mis-alligned E-703 elevator rib |
Hi Trevor
I had this exact problem. The issue did not turn out to be a mis-punched rib
but rather a mis-bend elevator skin. However, in my situation, both ribs fit
one side and neither fit the other. Vans replaced the skin for me without
any hassle at all. If I were you, and considering the minimal cost, buy a
replacement rib and see what happens.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant balancing fiasco |
I did leave some essential info out of my first post.
RV-6A. Old wheel pants
Before all I really had was minor to moderate shimmy of the nosegear.
I could count on it at around 18 knots while taxiing.
I balanced on a rod about the landing gear axis. Obviously while off
the gear. Seems like I used around 320 grams just to make it slightly
nose heavy.
I have essentially eliminated the main gear problem but still need to
remove more
lead. I have tried lowering the nose tire pressure to as low as 16 psi with no
improvement and making the nut tighter (below the belleville washers).
I sure would like to find the magic combination that eliminated the nose gear
shimmy.
Ron Lee
>What model of RV?
>How bad was the shimmy before?
>How much lead did you use?
>What axis did you balance about (the landing gear axial?)
>
>I was under the impression this would help, as you where obviously. At
>worst I was under the impression the effect would be no change, not WORST!
>
>I was thinking of doing wheel pant balancing out of the box, before first
>flight, but now I think i'll wait.
>
>Any other advice or thoughts on why this made your shimmy worst? Did you
>do additional flight and adjust air pressure?
>
>Thanks G
>
>
> >From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
> >Subject: RV-List: Wheel pant balancing fiasco
> >
> >
> >I tried this using lead shot in the front of each wheel pant and on the
> first
> >flight the gear leg shimmy was worst than before and even the main gear
> >displayed a vibration that I never noticed before.
> >
> >So now I am taking beaucoup time to remove the lead shot that was
> >epoxied in. So if anyone does this I suggest placing the lead shot in
> >the nose, cover with a layer of aluminum foil then add appropriate
> >fiberglass to secure. Then if it does not work, a simple drill through the
> >fiberglass will allow the lead shot to come out easily.
> >
> >Ron Lee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Patterson <scc_ron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Panel Mounted GPS |
I was planning to mount my Garmin 396 as my primary nav instrument just under the
Dynon D10A. I am in the finishing stage on my RV-4. Trouble is, the thing looks
pretty ugly in the panel using the new snap-in mount that's been developed.
Anyone have a better mounting system, or a recomendation for another GPS that will
do everything the 396 will do, but is made for permanent mounting? (I cant
afford the 530)
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Free breakfast and $2.80/gallon 100LL |
Saturday was the annual Lamar CO (KLAA) breakfast/lunch fly-in.
Breakfast and lunch is free to pilots and crew (Hear that EAA?)
Breakfast included pancakes, sausage and scrambled eggs.
It was wonderful. Perhaps being free makes it taste just a little
bit better.
Two of the three RVs from Meadow Lake then went to La Junta
(KLHX) for $2.80 100LL. it is $3.70 to 3.90 at 00V. Today I flew
to KLHX to make a produce run at Van Hooks then fill up on that
100LL. Then on to Pueblo (KPUB) for two VOR approaches.
Pueblo controllers are very nice and make practice approaches
a pleasure.
This instrument training is adding many new skills that will make
flying better when I can get up or down through a benign cloud
layer instead of cancelling trips like I do now.
Another wonderful day of flying with 100 mile visibility. Some light
turbulence from the winds over the mountains but that will end by
Tuesday.
Now over to change the oil and grind out more wheel pant lead shot.
Grumble grumble
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Panel Mounted GPS |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Ron,
If you have been following the recent RV-List you can get a
special mount for your unit from Air Gizmos http://www.airgizmos.com for
about $100. I understand Vans sells them as well.
I have one mounted in my -4 to hold a 296. I have uploaded a
photo so you can see. Unfortunately the picture does not show how far it
sinks the unit into the panel but if I had to estimate it is about 60%.
One nice thing about these is that you can remove the GPS if you want to
take home, update or service the unit vs. a custom mount behind the
panel that will make it more difficult to remove.
http://www.make-it.com/RV/Panel.jpg
Robin
RV-4
200 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Patterson
Subject: RV-List: Panel Mounted GPS
I was planning to mount my Garmin 396 as my primary nav instrument just
under the Dynon D10A. I am in the finishing stage on my RV-4. Trouble
is, the thing looks pretty ugly in the panel using the new snap-in mount
that's been developed.
Anyone have a better mounting system, or a recomendation for another GPS
that will do everything the 396 will do, but is made for permanent
mounting? (I cant afford the 530)
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant balancing fiasco |
320 grams seems like an awful lot on a nosegear. I used about half a
pound (roughly 227G) in my main gear fairings, which are quite a bit
bigger than the nosewhee l fairings. You said you made it slightly nose
heavy on purpose- why? The idea is to get it to balance as close as
possible. The fact that you improved things by removing lead seems to
indicate that you used too much.
Jeff Point
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill shook <billshook2000(at)yahoo.com> |
I've heard good things about the:
http://www.anywheremap.com/
Being that I'm looking into a handheld, I thought I'd ask in here if anyone has
any
experiences with this. I'm thinking of using it as a straight gps for flying rentals
around while I build as well as in car street mapping.
Thanks
Bill
-4 wings
--- Ron Patterson wrote:
>
> I was planning to mount my Garmin 396 as my primary nav instrument just under
the
> Dynon D10A. I am in the finishing stage on my RV-4. Trouble is, the thing looks
pretty
> ugly in the panel using the new snap-in mount that's been developed.
>
> Anyone have a better mounting system, or a recomendation for another GPS that
will do
> everything the 396 will do, but is made for permanent mounting? (I cant afford
the
> 530)
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant balancing fiasco |
I've not been following this thread closely ..... so bear with me.
1. the problem is with the nose gear.
2. It shimmy's (at least I think that's what was said!!!)
3. Balancing didn't help.
Now, here's where I have no experience with RV nosegears ...... but I do
with Grummans.
The cure for shimmy in the Grumman nosegear is to put a spring scale on
the axle and pull sideways, adjusting the nosegear swivel nut until the
belleville washers produce a drag of 24 Lbs. Sometimes it takes more.
As for balancing the nosegear, the pivot point is only a few inches aft
of the front of the wheel pant, and to balance the nosewheel would take
significant weight on that short moment to counteract the longer and
heavier moment of the tire. Just an observation. I don't think
balancing the nosegear/pant is the answer ...... the answer lies in the
correct assembly of belleville washers and the tightness of the nut.
Linn ...... learning a lot here!!!
Jeff Point wrote:
>
>320 grams seems like an awful lot on a nosegear. I used about half a
>pound (roughly 227G) in my main gear fairings, which are quite a bit
>bigger than the nosewhee l fairings. You said you made it slightly nose
>heavy on purpose- why? The idea is to get it to balance as close as
>possible. The fact that you improved things by removing lead seems to
>indicate that you used too much.
>
>Jeff Point
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant balancing fiasco |
New nose gear rod, or old?
Running balanced pants here with no issues; minor shimmy on asphalt during high-speed
rollout, resolves with deceleration or moderate brake application. No
stiffeners. Tire pressure typically 28 in mains, 24 in nosewheel.
Mostly grass strip ops, where shimmy goes unnoticed anyhow, among the divots and
moguls :-)
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Wheel pant balancing fiasco
I did leave some essential info out of my first post.
RV-6A. Old wheel pants
Before all I really had was minor to moderate shimmy of the nosegear.
I could count on it at around 18 knots while taxiing.
I balanced on a rod about the landing gear axis. Obviously while off
the gear. Seems like I used around 320 grams just to make it slightly
nose heavy.
I have essentially eliminated the main gear problem but still need to
remove more
lead. I have tried lowering the nose tire pressure to as low as 16 psi with no
improvement and making the nut tighter (below the belleville washers).
I sure would like to find the magic combination that eliminated the nose gear
shimmy.
Ron Lee
>What model of RV?
>How bad was the shimmy before?
>How much lead did you use?
>What axis did you balance about (the landing gear axial?)
>
>I was under the impression this would help, as you where obviously. At
>worst I was under the impression the effect would be no change, not WORST!
>
>I was thinking of doing wheel pant balancing out of the box, before first
>flight, but now I think i'll wait.
>
>Any other advice or thoughts on why this made your shimmy worst? Did you
>do additional flight and adjust air pressure?
>
>Thanks G
>
>
> >From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
> >Subject: RV-List: Wheel pant balancing fiasco
> >
> >
> >I tried this using lead shot in the front of each wheel pant and on the
> first
> >flight the gear leg shimmy was worst than before and even the main gear
> >displayed a vibration that I never noticed before.
> >
> >So now I am taking beaucoup time to remove the lead shot that was
> >epoxied in. So if anyone does this I suggest placing the lead shot in
> >the nose, cover with a layer of aluminum foil then add appropriate
> >fiberglass to secure. Then if it does not work, a simple drill through the
> >fiberglass will allow the lead shot to come out easily.
> >
> >Ron Lee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant balancing fiasco |
linn walters wrote:
>As for balancing the nosegear, the pivot point is only a few inches aft
>of the front of the wheel pant, and to balance the nosewheel would take
>significant weight on that short moment to counteract the longer and
>heavier moment of the tire. Just an observation. I don't think
>balancing the nosegear/pant is the answer ...... the answer lies in the
>correct assembly of belleville washers and the tightness of the nut.
>
>
You make a good point about the geometry of the nosegear. I have a TD
and never had to bother with balancing a nosegear. I think there are
two different forces at work on the nose and main gear causing them to
shimmy. The main gear are more prone to side-to-side shimmy because of
the geometry of the gear leg, vs. the nosegear. I do stand by the value
of balancing the main gear pants, but as with anything else in this
business, YMMV.
For those who don't know about balancing wheel pants, a picture or two
is worth a thousand words.
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/wheel%20pants.htm
Jeff Point
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant balancing fiasco |
> Before all I really had was minor to moderate shimmy of the nosegear.
> I could count on it at around 18 knots while taxiing.
>
> I balanced on a rod about the landing gear axis. Obviously
> while off the gear. Seems like I used around 320 grams just
> to make it slightly nose heavy.
>
> I have essentially eliminated the main gear problem but still
> need to remove more lead. I have tried lowering the nose
> tire pressure to as low as 16 psi with no improvement and
> making the nut tighter (below the belleville washers).
>
> I sure would like to find the magic combination that
> eliminated the nose gear shimmy.
>
> Ron Lee
Ron, have you had someone outside the plane watch as you come taxiing by
with shimmy present? I've watched nosegears on RV's do an interesting
pitching "shimmy". I don't know why. Back and forth (castering) shimmy is
a whole different thing, which should be eliminated by increasing the break
out force or playing with air pressure. Keep in mind that it is important
to keep the nosegear tire inflated as much as possible, because they are
notorious for chewing up innertubes on the sidewall. I make sure that the
edge of the tread is a little off the floor, maybe 35 psi?
I've never had nosewheel shimmy, but I do have a main gear fore/aft
oscillation that an outside observer noted. In my case, I never had it with
the old crappy tires that came with the kit, but when I switched to Michelin
I had this very noticable fore/aft movement at 23 knots. I balanced the
main gear fairings also by putting lead in them, as regardless of whether or
not it eliminates "shimmy", it should reduce pitching forces on the fairings
when taxiing.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 667 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant balancing fiasco |
The 320 grams was in the mains. The nose gear was much less.
Perhaps I misread the balancing goal.
Ron Lee
At 02:39 PM 9/18/2005, you wrote:
>
>320 grams seems like an awful lot on a nosegear. I used about half a
>pound (roughly 227G) in my main gear fairings, which are quite a bit
>bigger than the nosewhee l fairings. You said you made it slightly nose
>heavy on purpose- why? The idea is to get it to balance as close as
>possible. The fact that you improved things by removing lead seems to
>indicate that you used too much.
>
>Jeff Point
>
>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere map? |
Visibility is not as good as some of the aviation handhelds, but that is its
only draw-back. Still usable in any amount of daylight, I really love the
following features:
Easy to upgrade software and database
Flight planning where ever you are - I use my iPaq at work all the time
You already know how to use it.
Versatile GPS options
If you are considering iPaq also look into MountainScope software:
http://www.pcavionics.com/custserv/index.jsp
The 3-d terrain is simply unsurpassed and most other features are about
like anywhere map. Same Price.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
On 9/18/05, bill shook wrote:
>
>
> I've heard good things about the:
>
> http://www.anywheremap.com/
>
> Being that I'm looking into a handheld, I thought I'd ask in here if
> anyone has any
> experiences with this. I'm thinking of using it as a straight gps for
> flying rentals
> around while I build as well as in car street mapping.
>
> Thanks
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
> --- Ron Patterson wrote:
>
> >
> > I was planning to mount my Garmin 396 as my primary nav instrument just
> under the
> > Dynon D10A. I am in the finishing stage on my RV-4. Trouble is, the
> thing looks pretty
> > ugly in the panel using the new snap-in mount that's been developed.
> >
> > Anyone have a better mounting system, or a recomendation for another GPS
> that will do
> > everything the 396 will do, but is made for permanent mounting? (I cant
> afford the
> > 530)
> > Ron
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
Bill,
I've had a love/hate relationship with AnywhereMap for the 5 years I've
flown with it. One of the reasons I got it was that I carried an Ipaq
for business and that made it a tremendous bang for the buck to get a
color moving map - at that time, 2001. If you don't already have a PDA,
today's value comparison is a lot different. You've got lots of very
good choices. I spent a lot of time at the 2004 SnF looking for an
alternative since my Ipaq was dying. I elected to upgrade my Ipaq to a
4705 and stay with AWM because it was a dirt cheap choice (aside from
the Ipaq which I need anyway.) It cost $20 to get a new connector and
yoke mount plate and a little time to solder 6 tiny wires. The features
that keep me with them were: the larger much better display of the
HP4705, the AWM database contains private airports which the Jepp based
products do not and AWM displays TFRs and provides hourly updates that
can be downloaded. It's got all the spiffy features of most moving maps
but those couple were distinctive and a plus for me. But that was 2004.
Now the downside and why I will very probably replace it in the next
couple months. No particular order other than the first one.
1) The database, in particular Class B&C boundaries, is WRONG. Well not
everything but there are known errors that could get you busted. When
Houston IAH added a new runway the Class B was changed to add an
East-West corridor with a lowered floor. AWM did not incorporate the
change until about 6 months after it was effective. When I complained, I
was told that their database could not handle the complexity and
besides, AnywhereMap SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR NAVIGATION! Huh??? About a
year ago, I noticed a difference in the corridor boundary between AWM
and the Jepp database in my GX-60. Apparently the FAA made an in-stream
correction to the boundary (moved it 2-3 miles north.) Jepp got it, AWM
did not. When I told AWM about it they said they used gummint data and
couldn't change it and besides, AnywhereMap SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR
NAVIGATION! A few weeks ago I screwed up and was looking at AWM on my
yoke (instead of the GX in the panel) during my climb out. The
controller caught me clipping the floor but was cool and just gave me
the altimeter setting. I thanked him as I pushed over. I sent another
note to ControlVision about it but got no reply. I have heard from other
AWM users that other SUA errors exist including wrong altitudes. It is
also rumored that CV purges their forums of negative comments.
2) The Ipaq connector and AWM's mounting method is a weak point in the
system. The serial connector on my old Ipaq failed (so it wouldn't
charge in my desktop cradle) in part because of the AWM connector/yoke
mount plate stressing it. The 4705 version is much better but it's still
a weak point.
3) It is not realistic to operate off the internal battery. I started
with a CF card GPS and battery life was extremely short. The CF GPS was
also poor at capturing satellites and I eventually switched to the
combined GPS35, cig lighter, serial cable bundle. Performance is good
but there is no battery only option.
4) You can strangle yourself with cables. The cable I've got now has one
cable from the yoke to the cig lighter and one from there to the mouse
on the glareshield. I just slide the Ipaq into the yoke plate when I get
in. The connections have evolved and it's way better than what I started
with. A battery Bluetooth GPS might be even cleaner but I've heard of
some connection reliability issues with Bluetooth.
5) The Ipaq is susceptible to cockpit heat. I've had it overheat when I
left it on the yoke during lunch - with the canopy open, the yoke shaded
and only ~95deg. Once I had to do a hardware reset to get it back. Other
times the display started functioning when I got it cooled down. The
Ipaq was designed for office use so I suspect the dedicated units are
more tolerant of heat.
6) I had a bad experience with their PocketPlates product. I bought it
when it first came out and fooled with it until my subscription ran out.
It never really worked. They changed formats multiple times, never
delivered geosync'd plates, you couldn't run it with AWM and their
update process was fatally flawed. I basically bought into vaporware -
my fault, I'm a software developer and should have known better.
7) I'm not real comfortable with the quality of their software
development. Too many quirks, flaws, architecture issues and rookie
mistakes to believe they're pros. Like the latest major release, 1.7,
that corrupted all your user waypoints when you upgraded. Oops... Also,
on 300nm legs or more I can see a significant difference in the great
circle route plot between my GX-60 and AWM (several miles apart) - which
would you bet is right?
8) Portability is a problem with my setup. Now that I've got everything
routed and secured I can't really move it to another plane. When I was
doing my IFR training in a rental I carried it but never used it. On the
long cross-country after things settled down my instructor pulled his
Garmin from its bag, turned it on and threw it on the glareshield. It
would have taken me 10 minutes to sort mine out so I just forgot about
it.
9) For auto use, I'd have to buy a street mapping application and then
worry about how to mount it and get the GPS antenna positioned - i.e.
see all the above.
With all that said, I've finally had enough. I blown a lot of money and
way too much time on Control Vision and AWM to still be left with a
kludgey system. It was great in 2001 but it's time has passed. Now that
I've seen the Garmin 396, I'm trying hard (well, maybe not that hard) to
talk myself out of buying one. Then I can get a phone with a PDA and
I'll have one less thing to carry around. If you can do without the XM
there are a lot of good deals out there, including NOS 295's. Good
hunting.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bill shook
> Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2005 4:02 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Anywhere map?
>
>
> I've heard good things about the:
>
> http://www.anywheremap.com/
>
> Being that I'm looking into a handheld, I thought I'd ask in
> here if anyone has any experiences with this. I'm thinking
> of using it as a straight gps for flying rentals around while
> I build as well as in car street mapping.
>
> Thanks
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant balancing fiasco |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Wheel pant balancing fiasco
<<>>>
>
> Ron, have you had someone outside the plane watch as you come taxiing by
> with shimmy present? I've watched nosegears on RV's do an interesting
> pitching "shimmy". I don't know why. Back and forth (castering) shimmy
> is
> a whole different thing, which should be eliminated by increasing the
> break
> out force or playing with air pressure. Keep in mind that it is important
> to keep the nosegear tire inflated as much as possible, because they are
> notorious for chewing up innertubes on the sidewall. I make sure that the
> edge of the tread is a little off the floor, maybe 35 psi?
>
<<>>
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A N66AP 667 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
Yesterday, I saw a very nice RV-6A with a red, white, and blue paint scheme
land. He aero-braked for a long way, probably until the elevator didn't have
enough authority to hold the nose off. Once the nosewheel was on the ground,
the pilot maintained full up elevator. In other words, the pilot was doing
everything "right". Despite that, as soon as the nosewheel touched, the
nose gear fairing (and presumably the everything else up there) began a
noticable shimmy in the up and down (or fore and aft) plane. The amplitude
wasn't large, but there was definitely a shimmy. It ended about the time he
was at walking speed. My experience with the runway at Lebanon is that it is
in great shape - so I don't think the runway surface was the problem.
I wonder if this fore/aft shimmy has any relationship with the nose gear
failures that have occurred with more than a few -A models...
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere map? |
>
> Bill,
>
> I've had a love/hate relationship with AnywhereMap for the 5 years I've
> flown with it. One of the reasons I got it was that I carried an Ipaq
> for business and that made it a tremendous bang for the buck to get a
> color moving map - at that time, 2001. If you don't already have a PDA,
> today's value comparison is a lot different. You've got lots of very
> good choices. I spent a lot of time at the 2004 SnF looking for an
> alternative since my Ipaq was dying. I elected to upgrade my Ipaq to a
> 4705 and stay with AWM because it was a dirt cheap choice (aside from
> the Ipaq which I need anyway.) It cost $20 to get a new connector and
> yoke mount plate and a little time to solder 6 tiny wires. The features
> that keep me with them were: the larger much better display of the
> HP4705, the AWM database contains private airports which the Jepp based
> products do not and AWM displays TFRs and provides hourly updates that
> can be downloaded. It's got all the spiffy features of most moving maps
> but those couple were distinctive and a plus for me. But that was 2004.
>
> Now the downside and why I will very probably replace it in the next
> couple months. No particular order other than the first one.
>
> 1) The database, in particular Class B&C boundaries, is WRONG. Well not
Somewhere back in the archives is probably my comments on AWM which I tried
in good faith.
Suffice it to say, I agree with Greg. I did not find it to be reliable or
accurate.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Harry gives up on dial up. |
HCrosby(at)gruftmacon.USCG.mil, gillcrist(at)compuserve.com, FLYNBYK(at)cs.com,
geneg(at)sled.gsfc.nasa.gov, JGreene32(at)aol.com, MarGreene32(at)aol.com,
kundinfo(at)mindspring.com, rv6flyer1998(at)dslextreme.com, AllHolzm(at)cs.com,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com, dick_j(at)msn.com, chris.kalivas(at)pw.utc.com,
menahemk(at)rafael.co.il, ktlkrn(at)cox.net, douganorth(at)mchsi.com,
Ronald.Obermeyer.CTR(at)osd.mil, jpoint(at)mindspring.com, PopCohen(at)aol.com,
jnormro(at)sbcglobal.net, RV=List(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com, Vanremog(at)aol.com, JimVasco(at)verizon.net,
fverlot(at)hotmail.com, johnw(at)hellerwiegenstein.com
Hi all, please take a minute and record my new ISP address so I won't lose
touch with any of you. It is now _HCRV6(at)comcast.net_
(mailto:HCRV6(at)comcast.net) . Only the ISP is changed.
Harry Crosby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Paulich III" <jpaulich(at)earthlink.net> |
Add another RV-7 to the fleet. N121PR took to the air over Naples, Florida (KAPF)
Sunday morning. The quickbuild received its airworthiness certificate Saturday
afternoon by DAR Al Bennett. Builder buddy Dale Savage and I corrected
the squawks as they were called out. After receiving the ticket, my plan was
to button it back up for an early morning first flight to catch the weather before
buildup. We worked diligently until 4:00 pm when I had to kick everyone
out of the hanger (surprise party at 5:00 pm, don't ask). I figured that there
was an hour's work left to do. If I could just get to the hanger early enough,
the "go" window might still be open. No alarm, up at 5:30 am (actually, stayed
in bed until that time), hanger at 6:00. Three hours later, finally done
(with the help of hanger bum, Mike Lamb). Home to shower, shave, eat, and to
collect the essentials (i.e., wife).
On the way to the airport my wife, Sara, phoned the rest of the ground and support
crew: Our son, John, his girlfriend Danielle, and EAAers Dale Savage and
Mike Lamb. Light winds an a few scattered clouds made it a go. Engine fired
up, avionics on, no sound from COM1. The minor squawk was corrected when Dale
retrieved my headset from the hanger (note to all of you awaiting your first
flight: have good ground support!). The airplane was stable through the taxi
tests. One final scroll through the checklist and I was cleared for takeoff
on runway 05. Wow! The RV jumped into the air. Even at the expected Vy, I was
at 1200 feet at the opposite threshold of the 5000 ft. runway. It was like
riding an elevator. Circling orientation for 45 minutes, all gauges green, then
back on the ground with a perfect three-bounce landing. Mixture, idle cutoff.
Mags, off. Master, off. RV grin, still on.
Thanks to all the RVers on the list for the knowledge and encouragement. Stein,
you helped build a great panel. I'll get you a photo soon, I promise. My wife
was ever supportive throughout the building process. My gratitude goes to
Dale Savage, Luke Claremont, John Villada, and many others that joined in the
effort sharing numerous hours.
The weather's looking good, gotta go.
John Paulich
N121PR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com> |
Congrats John! If you don't mind, why don't you share with us other
builders your list of DAR "squawks" so that we can learn from your
experience.
Thanks and happy flying
Jimmy Ayres
RV7A QB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Paulich III
Subject: RV-List: N121PR flies!
Add another RV-7 to the fleet. N121PR took to the air over Naples, Florida
(KAPF) Sunday morning. The quickbuild received its airworthiness
certificate Saturday afternoon by DAR Al Bennett. Builder buddy Dale Savage
and I corrected the squawks as they were called out. After receiving the
ticket, my plan was to button it back up for an early morning first flight
to catch the weather before buildup. We worked diligently until 4:00 pm
when I had to kick everyone out of the hanger (surprise party at 5:00 pm,
don't ask). I figured that there was an hour's work left to do. If I could
just get to the hanger early enough, the "go" window might still be open.
No alarm, up at 5:30 am (actually, stayed in bed until that time), hanger at
6:00. Three hours later, finally done (with the help of hanger bum, Mike
Lamb). Home to shower, shave, eat, and to collect the essentials (i.e.,
wife).
On the way to the airport my wife, Sara, phoned the rest of the ground and
support crew: Our son, John, his girlfriend Danielle, and EAAers Dale
Savage and Mike Lamb. Light winds an a few scattered clouds made it a go.
Engine fired up, avionics on, no sound from COM1. The minor squawk was
corrected when Dale retrieved my headset from the hanger (note to all of you
awaiting your first flight: have good ground support!). The airplane was
stable through the taxi tests. One final scroll through the checklist and I
was cleared for takeoff on runway 05. Wow! The RV jumped into the air.
Even at the expected Vy, I was at 1200 feet at the opposite threshold of the
5000 ft. runway. It was like riding an elevator. Circling orientation for
45 minutes, all gauges green, then back on the ground with a perfect
three-bounce landing. Mixture, idle cutoff. Mags, off. Master, off. RV
grin, still on.
Thanks to all the RVers on the list for the knowledge and encouragement.
Stein, you helped build a great panel. I'll get you a photo soon, I
promise. My wife was ever supportive throughout the building process. My
gratitude goes to Dale Savage, Luke Claremont, John Villada, and many others
that joined in the effort sharing numerous hours.
The weather's looking good, gotta go.
John Paulich
N121PR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
John
You the man..................Way to go............another dream
fulfilled!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Frank @ sgu and slc
>From: "John Paulich III" <jpaulich(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: N121PR flies!
>Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 08:16:51 -0400
>
>
>Add another RV-7 to the fleet. N121PR took to the air over Naples, Florida
>(KAPF) Sunday morning. The quickbuild received its airworthiness
>certificate Saturday afternoon by DAR Al Bennett. Builder buddy Dale
>Savage and I corrected the squawks as they were called out. After
>receiving the ticket, my plan was to button it back up for an early morning
>first flight to catch the weather before buildup. We worked diligently
>until 4:00 pm when I had to kick everyone out of the hanger (surprise party
>at 5:00 pm, don't ask). I figured that there was an hour's work left to
>do. If I could just get to the hanger early enough, the "go" window might
>still be open. No alarm, up at 5:30 am (actually, stayed in bed until that
>time), hanger at 6:00. Three hours later, finally done (with the help of
>hanger bum, Mike Lamb). Home to shower, shave, eat, and to collect the
>essentials (i.e., wife).
>
>On the way to the airport my wife, Sara, phoned the rest of the ground and
>support crew: Our son, John, his girlfriend Danielle, and EAAers Dale
>Savage and Mike Lamb. Light winds an a few scattered clouds made it a go.
>Engine fired up, avionics on, no sound from COM1. The minor squawk was
>corrected when Dale retrieved my headset from the hanger (note to all of
>you awaiting your first flight: have good ground support!). The airplane
>was stable through the taxi tests. One final scroll through the checklist
>and I was cleared for takeoff on runway 05. Wow! The RV jumped into the
>air. Even at the expected Vy, I was at 1200 feet at the opposite threshold
>of the 5000 ft. runway. It was like riding an elevator. Circling
>orientation for 45 minutes, all gauges green, then back on the ground with
>a perfect three-bounce landing. Mixture, idle cutoff. Mags, off. Master,
>off. RV grin, still on.
>
>Thanks to all the RVers on the list for the knowledge and encouragement.
>Stein, you helped build a great panel. I'll get you a photo soon, I
>promise. My wife was ever supportive throughout the building process. My
>gratitude goes to Dale Savage, Luke Claremont, John Villada, and many
>others that joined in the effort sharing numerous hours.
>
>The weather's looking good, gotta go.
>
>John Paulich
>N121PR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere map? |
I would agree with some of your points, but it seems to me that you are
trying to compare the AWM to the GX-60. It's not really fair to compare pair
it to an IFR panel mounted GPS unit that costs over $2k. But even if you do,
the biggest drawback is a database that was sometimes 6 months slow to
update.
Then you mention portability issues. Have you tried to move around your
GX-60? :-)
I too have found better performance with the GPS 35. This I have
semi-permanently attached to my RV-6. All I do is slide in the iPaq and I am
ready to go.
For rental planes I also have a bluetooth GPS ($200). The batteries will
last several hours in it, but only about 2 hours in the iPaq. So for short
flights it is very quick and easy. With longer trips, you would want to plug
in most handheld units too. At that point all you need is 1 power cord to
the iPaq (still better that using a remount mounted antenna you would need
with a garmin handheld).
I also use this set-up in my car if I go to an unfamiliar city. set up is
fast, and the iPaq will talk me through my street directions (Mapopolis
software - recommended).
Anyway, that's my 4 cents.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
On 9/18/05, Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com> wrote:
>
>
> Bill,
>
> I've had a love/hate relationship with AnywhereMap for the 5 years I've
> flown with it. One of the reasons I got it was that I carried an Ipaq
> for business and that made it a tremendous bang for the buck to get a
> color moving map - at that time, 2001. If you don't already have a PDA,
> today's value comparison is a lot different. You've got lots of very
> good choices. I spent a lot of time at the 2004 SnF looking for an
> alternative since my Ipaq was dying. I elected to upgrade my Ipaq to a
> 4705 and stay with AWM because it was a dirt cheap choice (aside from
> the Ipaq which I need anyway.) It cost $20 to get a new connector and
> yoke mount plate and a little time to solder 6 tiny wires. The features
> that keep me with them were: the larger much better display of the
> HP4705, the AWM database contains private airports which the Jepp based
> products do not and AWM displays TFRs and provides hourly updates that
> can be downloaded. It's got all the spiffy features of most moving maps
> but those couple were distinctive and a plus for me. But that was 2004.
>
> Now the downside and why I will very probably replace it in the next
> couple months. No particular order other than the first one.
>
> 1) The database, in particular Class B&C boundaries, is WRONG. Well not
> everything but there are known errors that could get you busted. When
> Houston IAH added a new runway the Class B was changed to add an
> East-West corridor with a lowered floor. AWM did not incorporate the
> change until about 6 months after it was effective. When I complained, I
> was told that their database could not handle the complexity and
> besides, AnywhereMap SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR NAVIGATION! Huh??? About a
> year ago, I noticed a difference in the corridor boundary between AWM
> and the Jepp database in my GX-60. Apparently the FAA made an in-stream
> correction to the boundary (moved it 2-3 miles north.) Jepp got it, AWM
> did not. When I told AWM about it they said they used gummint data and
> couldn't change it and besides, AnywhereMap SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR
> NAVIGATION! A few weeks ago I screwed up and was looking at AWM on my
> yoke (instead of the GX in the panel) during my climb out. The
> controller caught me clipping the floor but was cool and just gave me
> the altimeter setting. I thanked him as I pushed over. I sent another
> note to ControlVision about it but got no reply. I have heard from other
> AWM users that other SUA errors exist including wrong altitudes. It is
> also rumored that CV purges their forums of negative comments.
>
> 2) The Ipaq connector and AWM's mounting method is a weak point in the
> system. The serial connector on my old Ipaq failed (so it wouldn't
> charge in my desktop cradle) in part because of the AWM connector/yoke
> mount plate stressing it. The 4705 version is much better but it's still
> a weak point.
>
> 3) It is not realistic to operate off the internal battery. I started
> with a CF card GPS and battery life was extremely short. The CF GPS was
> also poor at capturing satellites and I eventually switched to the
> combined GPS35, cig lighter, serial cable bundle. Performance is good
> but there is no battery only option.
>
> 4) You can strangle yourself with cables. The cable I've got now has one
> cable from the yoke to the cig lighter and one from there to the mouse
> on the glareshield. I just slide the Ipaq into the yoke plate when I get
> in. The connections have evolved and it's way better than what I started
> with. A battery Bluetooth GPS might be even cleaner but I've heard of
> some connection reliability issues with Bluetooth.
>
> 5) The Ipaq is susceptible to cockpit heat. I've had it overheat when I
> left it on the yoke during lunch - with the canopy open, the yoke shaded
> and only ~95deg. Once I had to do a hardware reset to get it back. Other
> times the display started functioning when I got it cooled down. The
> Ipaq was designed for office use so I suspect the dedicated units are
> more tolerant of heat.
>
> 6) I had a bad experience with their PocketPlates product. I bought it
> when it first came out and fooled with it until my subscription ran out.
> It never really worked. They changed formats multiple times, never
> delivered geosync'd plates, you couldn't run it with AWM and their
> update process was fatally flawed. I basically bought into vaporware -
> my fault, I'm a software developer and should have known better.
>
> 7) I'm not real comfortable with the quality of their software
> development. Too many quirks, flaws, architecture issues and rookie
> mistakes to believe they're pros. Like the latest major release, 1.7,
> that corrupted all your user waypoints when you upgraded. Oops... Also,
> on 300nm legs or more I can see a significant difference in the great
> circle route plot between my GX-60 and AWM (several miles apart) - which
> would you bet is right?
>
> 8) Portability is a problem with my setup. Now that I've got everything
> routed and secured I can't really move it to another plane. When I was
> doing my IFR training in a rental I carried it but never used it. On the
> long cross-country after things settled down my instructor pulled his
> Garmin from its bag, turned it on and threw it on the glareshield. It
> would have taken me 10 minutes to sort mine out so I just forgot about
> it.
>
> 9) For auto use, I'd have to buy a street mapping application and then
> worry about how to mount it and get the GPS antenna positioned - i.e.
> see all the above.
>
> With all that said, I've finally had enough. I blown a lot of money and
> way too much time on Control Vision and AWM to still be left with a
> kludgey system. It was great in 2001 but it's time has passed. Now that
> I've seen the Garmin 396, I'm trying hard (well, maybe not that hard) to
> talk myself out of buying one. Then I can get a phone with a PDA and
> I'll have one less thing to carry around. If you can do without the XM
> there are a lot of good deals out there, including NOS 295's. Good
> hunting.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
> Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bill shook
> > Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2005 4:02 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Anywhere map?
> >
> >
> > I've heard good things about the:
> >
> > http://www.anywheremap.com/
> >
> > Being that I'm looking into a handheld, I thought I'd ask in
> > here if anyone has any experiences with this. I'm thinking
> > of using it as a straight gps for flying rentals around while
> > I build as well as in car street mapping.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Bill
> > -4 wings
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Renew medical |
Why is annual medical good? What is the real benefit of a medical
anyway? And how will annual medicals reduce insurance cost?
For those who may consider annual medicals a safe practice for aviation, do
you now get an annual medical without being told to do so by big government?
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
>Sounds like another reason for renewing the medical annually rather waiting
>for it to be mandated; The other reason is more frequent medicals should
>lower your insurance cost.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N121PR flies! |
Congratulations, John!!!
Great accomplishment and worth every frustrating moment.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A flying
John Paulich III wrote:
>
>Add another RV-7 to the fleet. N121PR took to the air over Naples, Florida (KAPF)
Sunday morning. The quickbuild received its airworthiness certificate Saturday
afternoon by DAR Al Bennett. Builder buddy Dale Savage and I corrected
the squawks as they were called out. After receiving the ticket, my plan was
to button it back up for an early morning first flight to catch the weather before
buildup. We worked diligently until 4:00 pm when I had to kick everyone
out of the hanger (surprise party at 5:00 pm, don't ask). I figured that there
was an hour's work left to do. If I could just get to the hanger early enough,
the "go" window might still be open. No alarm, up at 5:30 am (actually,
stayed in bed until that time), hanger at 6:00. Three hours later, finally done
(with the help of hanger bum, Mike Lamb). Home to shower, shave, eat, and
to collect the essentials (i.e., wife).
>
>On the way to the airport my wife, Sara, phoned the rest of the ground and support
crew: Our son, John, his girlfriend Danielle, and EAAers Dale Savage and
Mike Lamb. Light winds an a few scattered clouds made it a go. Engine fired
up, avionics on, no sound from COM1. The minor squawk was corrected when Dale
retrieved my headset from the hanger (note to all of you awaiting your first
flight: have good ground support!). The airplane was stable through the taxi
tests. One final scroll through the checklist and I was cleared for takeoff
on runway 05. Wow! The RV jumped into the air. Even at the expected Vy, I
was at 1200 feet at the opposite threshold of the 5000 ft. runway. It was like
riding an elevator. Circling orientation for 45 minutes, all gauges green,
then back on the ground with a perfect three-bounce landing. Mixture, idle cutoff.
Mags, off. Master, off. RV grin, still on.
>
>Thanks to all the RVers on the list for the knowledge and encouragement. Stein,
you helped build a great panel. I'll get you a photo soon, I promise. My
wife was ever supportive throughout the building process. My gratitude goes to
Dale Savage, Luke Claremont, John Villada, and many others that joined in the
effort sharing numerous hours.
>
>The weather's looking good, gotta go.
>
>John Paulich
>N121PR
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Dave, I'm happy that you're happy with AWM. Apparently many are. As I
said, I've had a love-hate relationship with it. My only comparison of
it with the GX-60 is the accuracy of the database (which is really
Jeppesen) and the route calculation. I take it very personally that
they've screwed up the boundaries of the Class B I live under and won't
fix it despite repeated requests. Of course I'm blissfully unaware of
errors elsewhere in the country I might blunder into. I got from A to B
just fine with a Flybuddy Loran. I have a moving map to give me info to
make my life easier and stay out of trouble. If I can't trust it to the
extent "I" require, it loses utility for "me." If one never flirts with
boundaries it may be a non-issue. This is certainly a case where YMMV as
we each have our own requirements. But it's always better to make an
informed decision.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> I would agree with some of your points, but it seems to me
> that you are trying to compare the AWM to the GX-60. It's not
> really fair to compare pair it to an IFR panel mounted GPS
> unit that costs over $2k. But even if you do, the biggest
> drawback is a database that was sometimes 6 months slow to update.
> Then you mention portability issues. Have you tried to move
> around your GX-60? :-) I too have found better performance
> with the GPS 35. This I have semi-permanently attached to my
> RV-6. All I do is slide in the iPaq and I am ready to go.
> For rental planes I also have a bluetooth GPS ($200). The
> batteries will last several hours in it, but only about 2
> hours in the iPaq. So for short flights it is very quick and
> easy. With longer trips, you would want to plug in most
> handheld units too. At that point all you need is 1 power
> cord to the iPaq (still better that using a remount mounted
> antenna you would need with a garmin handheld).
> I also use this set-up in my car if I go to an unfamiliar
> city. set up is fast, and the iPaq will talk me through my
> street directions (Mapopolis software - recommended).
> Anyway, that's my 4 cents.
>
> --
> Dave Leonard
> Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D Paul Deits" <pdeits(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Trim control modules |
Am interested in trim speed adjustment. Have seen some discussion of the product
offered by Rocketboy Aircraft.
Any experiences of this or other related products?
You may respond offline to pdeits(at)comcast.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
John,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "John Paulich III" <jpaulich(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: N121PR flies!
>Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 08:16:51 -0400
>
>
>Add another RV-7 to the fleet. N121PR took to the air over Naples, Florida
>(KAPF) Sunday morning.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
| Subject: | Stride Tool / Imperial Tubing Bender |
This post isn't so much about the tool itself, as it is about the experience
I had trying to buy one. The short version of this story can be summed up by
saying do NOT buy from Amazon.com, and DO buy from Stride Tools. Of course the
problem here is that Stride does not sell to individuals, making it not as
simple as it sounds.
I _had_ heard comments from another list-er that buying via Amazon.com was a
problem for him too. I figured a single report of problems is too small a
sample to draw conclusions from, and decided to gamble. However, I add my
voice to his saying that if you want an Stride/Imperial tubing bender do
NOT go to Amazon.com.
I wanted a 470-FH bender, and found the best price on Amazon.com. Foolishly
a mere $10 difference caused me to order from them, and it was a disaster.
In the end it seems Stride had ceased their Amazon experiment a while back
and even though my credit card was charged (the day after I ordered, none
the less) .. the order was never received or processed by Stride.
After waiting the absurd amount of time Amazon gave me for shipment I called
Stride and ... after some understandable confusion ... was soon talking to
the directory of corporate marketing and customer relations.
He remembered the Amazon experiment. After I tried to see what Amazon had
to say (I filed a complaint, and got little in the way of useful responses
from Amazon), I asked him to just go find a bender and put it in the mail to
me. It was almost more in the way of a joke than anything else, but surely
seemed as good a plan to me as any.
Well, he did it! The bender arrived today, as promised, and I am thrilled at
the superb customer service I received from Stride. Now I just hope the bender
is as good as I've been assured it is. :)
Maybe there is more to the story than I know. Maybe Stride dropped the ball
with Amazon somewhere along the way. Maybe Stride *did* get my order, and they
screwed up. I don't know, but I do know that when the problem was brought to
the attention of both parties Stride made me happy, and Amazon didn't. That
is the bottom line, from my point of view.
-- Dwight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
autolearn=no version=3.0.2
Man I cant beleive how low we have come on this list. You gues should all be shot!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Mounted GPS |
I made a mount for a Garmin 196 (which I think has the same case as a 396 -
in any event the concept will apply to either).
I can describe the mount as follows and can get a picture of it if anyone is
interested:
1) It uses a modified "auto dash mount" that comes with the Garmin 196.
2) First a panel is cut (I used 0.63 2024) that follows the outline of the
196. The size I use extended between 1/4 and 3/4 inch larger that the
outline of the 196.
3) To this panel is riveted a piece of 0.25 AL that is bent (hadn seamer
would do) to follow the countour of the 196 allowing room to mount the Auto
mount bracket to this piece.
4) The auto bracket is mounted to the al backing piece with four screws by
taking the rubber sheet that the unit rests on off (it peels easily) and
positioning in the opening in the panel.
5) In the panel you cut a provision needs to be made for the "locking tab"
on the auto mount. so you can remove the unit as neeed.
6) The cutout and mount assemble mounts to the main panel with screws in
four corners. You have to cut an approriate size hole in the panel to do
this of course.
I used 1/4 spacers to raise the GPS such that is was not flush with the main
panel but final positioning is up to you.
A picture will make this much clearer so I'l post one later.
Richard Bibb
RV-4 N144KT (rising from the ashes as a 1998 accident to fly again soon)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Patterson" <scc_ron(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Panel Mounted GPS
>
> I was planning to mount my Garmin 396 as my primary nav instrument just
under the Dynon D10A. I am in the finishing stage on my RV-4. Trouble is,
the thing looks pretty ugly in the panel using the new snap-in mount that's
been developed.
>
> Anyone have a better mounting system, or a recomendation for another GPS
that will do everything the 396 will do, but is made for permanent mounting?
(I cant afford the 530)
> Ron
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rodney Tong <rjtong(at)yahoo.com> |
Anyone know of any open hanger space at Paine Field in Everett, WA? I might be
needing to hanger a(don't shoot me) LongEz. You can contact me off list.
Thanks in advance,
Rodney
Rodney Tong
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | 5-point Hooker Harness in RV8 |
>>
>I've got the 5-point hooker harness going into my RV8.
>
>The 5th attachment point seems to be a bit too small.
>Here are some photos:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050919215924335
>
>Has anyone else had this problem?
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 finishing
Yes, but with Pacific Aero Harness. Not so much in the same way as yours.
I just had to open up the clevis a bit by bending the tabs out to clear the
thicker belt attach ring. Just grind/bend as needed to make it work for
your attachment fitting. No biggee.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sherri & Paul Richardson" <prichar(at)mail.win.org> |
| Subject: | Optional Brake Line Popping |
Hello All,
I recently put the optional right side brake line kit into my RV-6A. One of the
new brake lines, which are clear tubes, just popped off its fitting at the firewall.
Anyone had this problem and found a fix? I'm wondering if I have to clamp
the lines near the fitting for vibration. I'm not sure if vibration is the
problem yet.
Thanks,
Paul Richardson
RV-6A 106RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Optional Brake Line Popping |
Yes, Paul
I had that happen when I built my RV-6A back in 1995. The furrel? was
seated in the line/fitting as best I could tell, but a tug on the line
(fortunately before I filled it with fluid) popped the line off the fitting.
I did not like the ideal of high brake pressure and plastic lines in the
first place, so I switched to stainless steel braided lines. Can't recall
for sure, but it was either An-3 or An-4 sizes. Never had any problem with
them, they also give a more solid feel to the brakes in my opinion..
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherri & Paul Richardson" <prichar(at)mail.win.org>
Subject: RV-List: Optional Brake Line Popping
>
>
> Hello All,
>
> I recently put the optional right side brake line kit into my RV-6A. One
> of the new brake lines, which are clear tubes, just popped off its fitting
> at the firewall. Anyone had this problem and found a fix? I'm wondering if
> I have to clamp the lines near the fitting for vibration. I'm not sure if
> vibration is the problem yet.
>
> Thanks,
> Paul Richardson
> RV-6A 106RV
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Whelen HDACF Power Supply |
Builders, want to save $150?
Freshly rebuilt Whelen HDACF 3-channel power supply for sale...$230
including shipping. Details here:
http://www.rvproject.com/forsale/whelen.html
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Condition Maintenance Inspection |
I understand the need to document the annual condition maintenance
inspection in the Aircraft Log Book, but is there a requirement to also
document the condition maintenance inspection in a separate Engine Log
Book?
Duane Bentley
RV6
N515DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
Also found at Pep Boys are Axius sunscreens (held by suction
cups). The ones I use are about the size you mentioned and
you can still see through them. They come is a very small
package and unfold to final size.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Mounted GPS |
SteinAir has a couple of different Garmin 196 mounting options. I have
no experience with these mounts but you can see them here
<http://www.steinair.com/panels.htm>
Larry Rosen
RV-10
N205EN (reserved)
Wings
Ron Patterson wrote:
>
>I was planning to mount my Garmin 396 as my primary nav instrument just under
the Dynon D10A. I am in the finishing stage on my RV-4. Trouble is, the thing
looks pretty ugly in the panel using the new snap-in mount that's been developed.
>
>Anyone have a better mounting system, or a recomendation for another GPS that
will do everything the 396 will do, but is made for permanent mounting? (I cant
afford the 530)
>Ron
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere map? |
Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
>
>
>>... I take it very personally that
>>they've screwed up the boundaries of the Class B I live under and won't
>>fix it despite repeated requests. Of course I'm blissfully unaware of
>>errors elsewhere in the country I might blunder into. I got from A to B
>>just fine with a Flybuddy Loran. I have a moving map to give me info to
>>make my life easier and stay out of trouble. If I can't trust it to the
>>extent "I" require, it loses utility for "me." If one never flirts with
>>boundaries it may be a non-issue. ....
>>
>>
>
>I always considered it a cardinal rule of information - bad data
>is worse than no data.
>
>Looking at their website, I could not find any limitations or
>warnings like "our product might guide you unknowingly into
>controlled airspace" or "our data is often way out of date".
>
>Their documentation does have this disclaimer:
>
>"Software Use: This software is to be used as a supplementary
>aid to promote situational awareness only. Do not use as a
>primary navigational instrument. Always verify the integrity
>and accuracy of any data presented herein."
>
>Basically what they are saying is that you can't trust this
>device for navigation. It is a shame that they decided to work
>on "amazing" features before they could figure out how to get
>accurate data presented to their customers.
>
Of course, the docs for every other handheld navigation device and vfr
panel mount loran/gps say virtually the same thing....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rusty" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net> |
Dave, I'm happy that you're happy with AWM. Apparently many are. As I said,
I've had a love-hate relationship with it.
Hi Greg,
FWIW, my experience with the Anywhere Map is almost the same as yours. It
has so much potential, but in my opinion, just doesn't deliver in usability.
I've gone through 2 different displays in an RV-3, and just can't use it.
Either the display is too hard to read, or you can't peck on the little
screen in turbulence. I eventually bought a NOS Garmin 195 (back when they
made them in portrait mode, which is how they should be) to use for actual
navigation, and put the Ipaq under the dash in the shade, showing just the
XM weather.
I just sold the RV-3, and the new owner didn't want the Anywhere Map, so now
I'm thinking very seriously about selling it, and buying a 396 for the next
plane. Garmin has never let me down, but the dang Anywhere Map has been
mighty finicky.
Cheers,
Rusty (keeping Dave in line )
RV-8 sold
RV-3 Mazda rotary, sold
RV? next
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Leach" <papadaddyo(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Bill,
September 03, 2005 - September 20, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-rg