RV-Archive.digest.vol-rh
September 20, 2005 - October 05, 2005
I bought this at sun-n fun this year and run it on an HP ipac.
Works great. I too am a renter as I build.
Rick Leach
N512RM
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bill shook
I've heard good things about the:
http://www.anywheremap.com/
Being that I'm looking into a handheld, I thought I'd ask in here if
anyone has any
experiences with this. I'm thinking of using it as a straight gps for
flying rentals
around while I build as well as in car street mapping.
Thanks
Bill
-4 wings
--- Ron Patterson wrote:
>
> I was planning to mount my Garmin 396 as my primary nav instrument
just under the
> Dynon D10A. I am in the finishing stage on my RV-4. Trouble is, the
thing looks pretty
> ugly in the panel using the new snap-in mount that's been developed.
>
> Anyone have a better mounting system, or a recomendation for another
GPS that will do
> everything the 396 will do, but is made for permanent mounting? (I
cant afford the
> 530)
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Condition Maintenance Inspection |
Duane:
Only an entry in the aircraft log is required on an amateur built
experimental in the USA. Only an aircraft log is required to be kept on an
amateur built experimental in the USA.
I recommend separate airframe, engine, and prop logs but there is no FAA
regulation that requires it on an amateur built experimental.
Gary A. Sobek
FAA DAR function code 46
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,777 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
Subject: RV-List: Condition Maintenance Inspection
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 21:12:30 -0400
I understand the need to document the annual condition maintenance
inspection in the Aircraft Log Book, but is there a requirement to also
document the condition maintenance inspection in a separate Engine Log
Book?
Duane Bentley
RV6
N515DB
________________________________________________________________________________
Just a note to say a public Thank you! to a fellow RVer. I am not one to participate
in the posts on forums. In fact this is my first post ever to the list.
However I read this list every day (have for years) and I make annual contributions
to it. I felt compelled to send this post for the people in our community
to know about this nice guy and to see that there are still good people
out there. Actually I say that, but in our community there are a lot of good
people out there. It seems rare though in every day (regular) life.
I bought a used Apollo GX60 GPS/COM from Sarasota Avionics. When I received it
and subsequently installed it in the panel in the RV6 that I am building, I powered
it up and discovered that the previous owners information was programmed
into the radio. There was the name, address, phone number, airplane type and
N number of the airplane of the previous owner. Ironically the previous owner
has an RV7A. His name is Scott Rosenberger. He lives in Baltimore, Maryland.
Anyway because I am the new owner of the radio, I wanted to program in my
information. In order to get into the owner information area, you have to put
in the password. Since I bought the radio used, I did not have the password.
I called Sarasota Avionics and they didnt have it either. They suggested that
I call Garmin AT and see if they could help me reset it. Rather than do that
I decided to call the number that was listed in the Radio in the owner information
area (not knowing if it was still a valid
phone number). Scott answered. I told him my name and that I am building an
RV6. I told him that I bought this radio used from Sarasota Avionics and he
must be the previous owner. He said that he was and that he did an upgrade on
his avionics with Sarasota and traded in the GX60 as part of the upgrade. We
had a nice conversation about building and flying RVs and about his new avionics.
He put in a GNS480, MX20, etc.., etc Scott gave me the password for the
radio. He ask me if I had a manual for the radio. I told him that I did, that
I downloaded it from Garmins web site and printed it out. He said that he
still had the original manual and wanted my address so he could send it to me.
I told him that I appreciated the offer, but that I could just use the one that
I printed out. He wanted my address anyway. I gave him my address and about
a month later I received a package from FedEx. I was not expecting anything
and I was curious as to what might be in the bo
x. I opened it and found the manual for the GX60 and a really neat power supply
with 9, 25 & 37 pin connectors for powering up the radio on the bench. There
was no note and his name was not on the package anywhere. It took me a minute
to figure out where the package came from. I finally remembered my conversation
with Scott a month prior. Fortunately I saved his number, so I was able
to call to thank him. The first few times I called he didnt answer and I got
his voice mail. I didnt leave a message because I wanted to thank him real
time. I finally got a hold of him on the phone two days later and thanked him.
I told him that it was a very nice surprise to receive his package. Scott
said that it was no problem and that he wanted me to have the manual and the power
supply, as it was useful to him to power up the radio at home to practice
using it outside of the airplane.
Needless to say, I am very moved by this gesture.
I asked Scott if by chance would he be going to the LOE FlyIn this year. He said
that he is and that he went last year as well. I told him that I am going also
and I hope to see him there. BTW, Scott said that his airplane (paint scene)
looks a lot like the Vans factory RV7(a). In case anyone who doesn't know
him maybe will recognize the airplane.
Thanks again Scott!!!
Joe Radford
Peoria, Az
RV6 &
(still building)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Condition Maintenance Inspection |
Thanks for your responses, but let me clarify. I taxied my prop into
the tip of a taxiway light on Saturday. One blade tip has small impact
and will need rework/repair. The insurance company sent out their
standard form, including a request for a copy of the Engine Logbook page
and Aircraft Logbook Page that shows the last Annual Inspection. I've
recorded the Condition Maintenance Inspection wording in the Aircraft
Logbook each time, as recommended by the FAA, but never duplicated the
wording in the Engine Logbook.
Duane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Optional Brake Line Popping |
I have not had this problem, but I believe there is some sort of
insert/sleeve that goes inside the plastic tubing that gets press fitted
when tightening it together. If you left out the insert/sleeve thing, that
could cause it to not work as you describe.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
is always beyond our grasp, but which,
if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
Nathaniel Hawthorne
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherri & Paul Richardson" <prichar(at)mail.win.org>
Subject: RV-List: Optional Brake Line Popping
>
>
> Hello All,
>
> I recently put the optional right side brake line kit into my RV-6A. One
> of the new brake lines, which are clear tubes, just popped off its fitting
> at the firewall. Anyone had this problem and found a fix? I'm wondering if
> I have to clamp the lines near the fitting for vibration. I'm not sure if
> vibration is the problem yet.
>
> Thanks,
> Paul Richardson
> RV-6A 106RV
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill(at)vondane.com |
I have some nice sized shades that mount with just one center suction
cup... I found them on the net, I will try to find where I got them...
-Bill
>
> Also found at Pep Boys are Axius sunscreens (held by suction
> cups). The ones I use are about the size you mentioned and
> you can still see through them. They come is a very small
> package and unfold to final size.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Rv Aator Receipt |
Nope. Guess the postal employees are stinn reading it ?
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
Listers,
I'm starting the planning process for a trip to Alaska next year. I'll
probably be doing it alone, so I would like to group up with anybody else
that may be planning a similar trip. Does anyone know of any group of
aviators that might be planning a trip to Alaska? Can anybody who has
already made the trip share some pointers? I'll be leaving from CT..... and
am planning for at least three weeks of time off.....
Fred Stucklen
N926RV RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trip to Alaska |
In a message dated 9/20/2005 1:02:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com writes:
I'm starting the planning process for a trip to Alaska next year. I'll
probably be doing it alone, so I would like to group up with anybody else
that may be planning a similar trip.
There is a company here in the Seattle area that plans and organizes general
aviation trips to Alaska. THey gave a very interesting talk at my EAA
chapter last year. I can't remember the name of the company but I will try to
find it and let you know.
Kim Nicholas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob" <rpgross(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RV stuff for sale... |
Thanks to all of you you took this stuff away. All will ship today or
tomorrow.
I still need to find a new home for the Vans RV-6 Electric Flap conversion
kit. It's new in the box. cost was $500 will sell for $250 plus shipping.
Also have one more Matronics Governor III.New in box $30 plus shiping.
PM me if interested
Warmest Regards,
Bob Gross
For the latest F1 Rocket/Synthetic Vision progress, click here...
www.F1-RocketBoy.com
Like Awesome Airplanes?? Click here WWW.BrutalPower.net to read about the
322 Horsepower Vans SUPER SIX!
-----Disclaimer---------
The contents of this E-mail (including contents of enclosure/(s) or
attachment/(s) if any are privileged & confidential material of Innovative
Aviation Systems Inc. or RocketBoy Aircraft Products Inc. and should not be
disclosed to, used by, or copied in any manner by anyone other than intended
addressee/(s).If this E-mail (including enclosure/(s) or attachment/(s) if
any has been received in error, please advise sender immediately and delete
it from your system. The views expressed in this E-mail message (including
enclosure/(s) or attachment/(s) if any are those of the individual sender.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A for sale... |
1999 RV-6A for sale $68,500.00. 415 Hobbs hours (about 350 tach hours) TTAF
& Engine with a FACTORY NEW Lycoming O-320-D1A (160 h.p.). Sterba 68 x 76
prop best prop I have ever flown behind. Full professional panel with all
new modern flight and engine instruments. Avmap EKP-IV color moving map GPS
(7 inch screen). Bendix/King Comm and mode C transponder. Custom
professional paint job that makes this RV a major eye catcher! Interior is
finish painted to match exterior with basic upholstery. NO DAMAGE HISTORY
and all construction logs, construction pictures, airframe/engine logs, and
receipts back to day one! With a factory new engine this plane runs like a
top and is one sweet plane that NEEDS NO WORK! Meets or exceeds all Vans
performance numbers. Contact Travis by e-mail at TravisHamblen(at)cox.net or
at 702-255-3635 for more info or pictures. Specs and pictures can be seen
at:
http://www.geocities.com/iflybygps/index.htm
Travis Hamblen
VGT (North Las Vegas)
RV-6A For Sale
RV-7A finishing finish kit and engine on order
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV stuff for sale... |
Bob,
How was Reno?
I may be interested in the Matronics Governor? Let me go on their website and look
it up!
So please don't send me the DAVTRON just yet ( ...as I perhaps can have you ship
it all at once! )
BTW: Don't you make servo governors as well ??
Thanks,
Konrad Werner,
Albuquerque
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob
To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 3:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV stuff for sale...
Thanks to all of you you took this stuff away. All will ship today or
tomorrow.
I still need to find a new home for the Vans RV-6 Electric Flap conversion
kit. It's new in the box. cost was $500 will sell for $250 plus shipping.
Also have one more Matronics Governor III.New in box $30 plus shiping.
PM me if interested
Warmest Regards,
Bob Gross
For the latest F1 Rocket/Synthetic Vision progress, click here...
www.F1-RocketBoy.com
Like Awesome Airplanes?? Click here WWW.BrutalPower.net to read about the
322 Horsepower Vans SUPER SIX!
-----Disclaimer---------
The contents of this E-mail (including contents of enclosure/(s) or
attachment/(s) if any are privileged & confidential material of Innovative
Aviation Systems Inc. or RocketBoy Aircraft Products Inc. and should not be
disclosed to, used by, or copied in any manner by anyone other than intended
addressee/(s).If this E-mail (including enclosure/(s) or attachment/(s) if
any has been received in error, please advise sender immediately and delete
it from your system. The views expressed in this E-mail message (including
enclosure/(s) or attachment/(s) if any are those of the individual sender.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Condition Maintenance Inspection |
No, Just the entry in the airframe logbook is required, although some may
say that entries in both logs is a good practice.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Condition Maintenance Inspection
>Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 21:12:30 -0400
>
>
>I understand the need to document the annual condition maintenance
>inspection in the Aircraft Log Book, but is there a requirement to also
>document the condition maintenance inspection in a separate Engine Log
>Book?
>
>
>Duane Bentley
>
>RV6
>
>N515DB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Condition Maintenance Inspection |
Duane,
Again the condition inspection entry is not required in the engine logbook
by the regulations or, more properly, the Operating Limitations given to the
aircraft at the time of the initial certification. Many people put and
entry in the engine logbook as to the finidings and inspection results, but
it is NOT required.
If you have any questions please feel free to call me at (503) 615-3237.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RE: Condition Maintenance Inspection
>Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 07:18:45 -0400
>
>
>Thanks for your responses, but let me clarify. I taxied my prop into
>the tip of a taxiway light on Saturday. One blade tip has small impact
>and will need rework/repair. The insurance company sent out their
>standard form, including a request for a copy of the Engine Logbook page
>and Aircraft Logbook Page that shows the last Annual Inspection. I've
>recorded the Condition Maintenance Inspection wording in the Aircraft
>Logbook each time, as recommended by the FAA, but never duplicated the
>wording in the Engine Logbook.
>
>
>Duane
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Houston Hurricane Evacuees (planes) |
0.22 FROM_HAS_ULINE_NUMS From: contains an underline and numbers/letters
Anyone have any recommended locations for secure storage of an RV near
Dallas Love Field? Anything at Love itself, possibly? Would prefer a
hangar, but secure is the main concern. Myself and some local buddies might
decide to evac 3-4 planes tomorrow or thursday.
Would want to fly SWA back to HOU as soon as the planes were relocated, then
pick back up a few days later.
Thanks in advance.
Bryan Jones
Houston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Compass Correction Card spreadsheet |
Well, an archive search didn't turn up any hits but I thought I remembered a
posting about a spreadsheet program that would print a correction card.
Anyone familiar with this?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Gray <n747jg(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | LASAR and CHT Probe |
I'm just beginning installation of LASAR electronic ignition on my RV-8
and noticed it came with a cylinder head temperature probe, which I
believe is an option with the LASAR system. I seem to remember some
issues in past postings concerning the CHT probe. I'd appreciate any
words of wisdom from current LASAR users that you might pass along to
help me out during my installation.
Thanks,
Jim Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass Correction Card spreadsheet |
I just scanned one ...... it's attached. Open in any paint program and
put the numbers where you want them. I hope the spreadsheet one shows
up. Sounds a little more elegant!
Linn
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
>Well, an archive search didn't turn up any hits but I thought I remembered a
>posting about a spreadsheet program that would print a correction card.
>Anyone familiar with this?
>Albert Gardner
>Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LASAR and CHT Probe |
Jim
You will find a write up about the CHT probe on Randy Lervold's
website www.rv-8.com
I also had the LASAR system on my RV-8, with the probe. As I understand
things, if you want to disable it as Randy suggests, you could just tie
it on to something under the panel. Since it would never get hot, it
wouldn't do anything.
However, it is my opinion that it is a good thing. I talked to Harry
Fenton about it (back in the good-old-days when Harry was still there).
He told me that it begins to roll back the timing advance when the TIT
goes above 435 degrees F. That sounds like a good thing to me. The
timing advance does produce higher CHTs, and you don't want to damage
your engine. This function may well give you a limit of 435 until you
really force a climb on a hot day.
My further opinion is that LASAR sucks, which is another area that Randy
and I disagree. I hope to meet him one day and have a talk over a couple
of beers :o) < Randy, how about LOE next month?>
http://lazy8.net/EI.htm
John Huft
RV8 "Nuisance"
Jim Gray wrote:
>
>I'm just beginning installation of LASAR electronic ignition on my RV-8
>and noticed it came with a cylinder head temperature probe, which I
>believe is an option with the LASAR system. I seem to remember some
>issues in past postings concerning the CHT probe. I'd appreciate any
>words of wisdom from current LASAR users that you might pass along to
>help me out during my installation.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Gray
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mkejrj(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Instruments for sale |
RV Listers,
I have two brand new, never installed, TSO'ed instruments for sale. I purchased
same for instalation in my RV8 but they were not required due to installing
a BMA EFIS.
Turn Coordinator : RC Allen, Model 83A 11 14, All electric 14 volts with Bezel
lights,3 1/8", TSO C3b
Air Craft Spruce lists @ $755.00
Selling for $ 495.00
Vertical Speed Indicator : United Model 7000, 0 to 2000FPM, 3 1/8", TSO C86
Air Craft Spruce lists @ $ 274.00
Selling for $150.00
Please contact me direct via E Mail or phone if interested.
Dick Jordan (610 933 4183 )
RV8A Finishing
RV Listers,
I have two brand new, never installed, TSO'ed instruments for sale. I purchased
same for instalation in my RV8 but they were not required due to installing
a BMA EFIS.
Turn Coordinator : RC Allen, Model 83A 11 14, All electric 14 volts with Bezel
lights,3 1/8", TSO C3b
Air Craft Spruce lists @ $755.00
Selling for $ 495.00
Vertical Speed Indicator : United Model 7000, 0 to 2000FPM, 3 1/8", TSO C86
Air Craft Spruce lists @ $ 274.00
Selling for $150.00
Please contact me direct via E Mail or phone if interested.
Dick Jordan (610 933 4183 )
RV8A Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV stuff for sale... |
Hey Bob,
I'm building an RV-8, but my friend is interested in your flap kit. His
name is Dave, give him a call 856-447-0269 or e mail me back a
rice737(at)msn.com with your # and I'll have him call you.
Thanks Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <rpgross(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV stuff for sale...
>
> Thanks to all of you you took this stuff away. All will ship today or
> tomorrow.
> I still need to find a new home for the Vans RV-6 Electric Flap conversion
> kit. It's new in the box. cost was $500 will sell for $250 plus shipping.
> Also have one more Matronics Governor III.New in box $30 plus shiping.
>
> PM me if interested
>
>
> Warmest Regards,
>
> Bob Gross
> For the latest F1 Rocket/Synthetic Vision progress, click here...
> www.F1-RocketBoy.com
> Like Awesome Airplanes?? Click here WWW.BrutalPower.net to read about the
> 322 Horsepower Vans SUPER SIX!
>
> -----Disclaimer---------
> The contents of this E-mail (including contents of enclosure/(s) or
> attachment/(s) if any are privileged & confidential material of Innovative
> Aviation Systems Inc. or RocketBoy Aircraft Products Inc. and should not
> be
> disclosed to, used by, or copied in any manner by anyone other than
> intended
> addressee/(s).If this E-mail (including enclosure/(s) or attachment/(s) if
> any has been received in error, please advise sender immediately and
> delete
> it from your system. The views expressed in this E-mail message (including
> enclosure/(s) or attachment/(s) if any are those of the individual sender.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LASAR and CHT Probe |
On 09/20 10:16, Jim Gray wrote:
> I'm just beginning installation of LASAR electronic ignition on my RV-8
> and noticed it came with a cylinder head temperature probe, which I
> believe is an option with the LASAR system. I seem to remember some
> issues in past postings concerning the CHT probe. I'd appreciate any
> words of wisdom from current LASAR users that you might pass along to
> help me out during my installation.
Having just gone through a LASAR installation I can speak to this.
I received my LASAR controller with a CHT probe but did not want to
intall the probe. If you have a controller with a CHT probe, you
MUST install the probe. I don't know if tieing it to something else
will work or not but I suggest that it will not. If you don't
want to use the CHT probe then send it and the controller back to
Unison in exchange for a controller that does not need it. There are
two versions of the controller, one requires the CHT probe, the other
does not.
About how the CHT controller works. At cruise, the controller will
retard timing one degree for every degree above 425 (CHT).
During full power climbs the controller will retard timing one
degree for every degree above 485 (CHT).
Personnaly, I like LASAR.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Compass Correction Card spreadsheet |
Lynn, Please send it to me also.
Thanks,
John(at)fureychrysler.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass Correction Card spreadsheet |
John Furey wrote:
>
>Lynn, Please send it to me also.
>
>Thanks,
>John(at)fureychrysler.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Houston Hurricane Evacuees (planes) |
Bryan Jones wrote:
>
>Anyone have any recommended locations for secure storage of an RV near
>Dallas Love Field? Anything at Love itself, possibly? Would prefer a
>hangar, but secure is the main concern. Myself and some local buddies might
>decide to evac 3-4 planes tomorrow or thursday.
>
>Would want to fly SWA back to HOU as soon as the planes were relocated, then
>pick back up a few days later.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Bryan Jones
>Houston
>
We are just NW of Jackson MS & Jackson (JAN) has SWA service. We also
have a couple of spare bedrooms & neighbors with rooms as well, if you
need to ride out the storm.
Charlie England
Slobovia Outernational (MS71)
601.879.9596
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brett Hahn" <abakerson(at)zianet.com> |
FYI:
If anybody needs a place to stay or a safe place to put an airplane they are
welcome with us in Las Cruces NM, (airport - KLRU)
We will be high and dry and will find accommodations for you here.
Brett Hahn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | CFI in Northern California |
0.15 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
I am looking for a CFI in Northern California that would be willing to do
some training in my RV-6A. The ideal location would be near San Jose, CA.
I have 2 people that need 5 hours each of logged CFI time, willing to pay
the going rate. Any leads on someone would be greatly appreciated!
Travis Hamblen
702-255-3635
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RvAtor Receipt? |
Bob Perkinson wrote:
>
>Still waiting for my copy in Tennessee.
>
>Bob Perkinson
>Hendersonville, TN.
>RV9 N658RP Reserved
>If nothing changes
>Nothing changes
>
>
>
Got mine yesturday :-)
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rubber "h-channel" - wing root channel |
Try Aircraft Spruce part number 05-01300.
Rollie & Rod
RV6A 110 Hours
(Having it painted)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CFI in Northern California |
In a message dated 9/21/2005 3:21:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
TravisHamblen(at)cox.net writes:
I am looking for a CFI in Northern California that would be willing to do
some training in my RV-6A. The ideal location would be near San Jose, CA.
I have 2 people that need 5 hours each of logged CFI time, willing to pay
the going rate. Any leads on someone would be greatly appreciated!
It's possible that Peter (who's a CFI at Attitude Aviation) will do this in
Livermore (KLVK), CA.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rubber "h-channel" - wing root channel |
In a message dated 9/21/2005 7:40:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes:
Does anyone know where I can buy some slightly larger
"h-channel" like that used on the wing root and h-stab?
I've checked McMaster, no luck.
Austin Hardware I think carries this. Check the Yeller Pages for the
contact info.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
FCC: mailbox://qlwyvjjmdwnbp(at)yahoo.com/Sent
| From: | Jonah Fields <qlwyvjjmdwnbp(at)yahoo.com> |
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YizOginohivtpu6Zpu7erm7r/qnoPqnaFm/kdu5gLW+EJuhaVCgyVK9QWungssX1pgX3FoP3nluKYmtb
QOdtlK99AmxYomzzzmb7uu/7wm/8yu/80m/92u/9slAQAAAh/nBocWdodW1lYXlsbmxmZHhmaXJjdnNj
eWpuanV3cnN5eHdxeXl4Y3N6cG9rbHdqZHJsdGJzY2llZHBpd2xhcWlnZXNqc3Foc2pscmdsbXdhADs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor Mills" <millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au> |
I am thinking of turning the standard Van's wing tips into aux fuel tanks.
Has anybody else done this ? or is there something that would make it impractical.
I have seen the Australian tip tanks that van's is re-selling, but cant manage
them on my budget.
Also does anyone know if the standard tips are epoxy or polyester, or how to pick
the difference, as I have been told I need to use epoxy to make them fuel
proof.
Thanks
Trevor Mills 80605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Patterson <scc_ron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Tinted Canopy and UV light |
Does anyone know if there is a filtering of harmful UV light if you have a tinted
canopy? I don't like hats....especially don't like BIG hats!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: CFI in Northern California |
As previously suggested by GV, try Pete Gillcrist at Attitude Aviation at LVK, www.AttitudeAviation.com.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 131 hours
As previously suggested by GV, try Pete Gillcrist at Attitude Aviation at LVK, www.AttitudeAviation.com.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 131 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
I think you want to use polyester isophthalate resin (with surface curing agent
added to final coat) to make fuel-proof tanks; not epoxy.
-Stormy
...been a long time, but I made aux tanks for my RANS S-12 out of this stuff and
it worked great.
-----Original Message-----
From: Trevor Mills <millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: Aux tanks
I am thinking of turning the standard Van's wing tips into aux fuel tanks.
Has anybody else done this ? or is there something that would make it
impractical.
I have seen the Australian tip tanks that van's is re-selling, but cant manage
them on my budget.
Also does anyone know if the standard tips are epoxy or polyester, or how to
pick the difference, as I have been told I need to use epoxy to make them fuel
proof.
Thanks
Trevor Mills 80605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n254bl(at)cfl.rr.com |
| Subject: | Mail Delivery (failure rv-list(at)matronics.com) |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Condition Maintenance Inspection |
Mike,
Just for my own education, can you tell me where I can find a listing of the
entries that are required in the airframe, engine, and prop log books?
Specifically, what routine maintenance items are required to be noted?
Vince
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Condition Maintenance Inspection
>Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 15:31:32 -0700
>
>
>Duane,
>
>Again the condition inspection entry is not required in the engine logbook
>by the regulations or, more properly, the Operating Limitations given to
>the
>aircraft at the time of the initial certification. Many people put and
>entry in the engine logbook as to the finidings and inspection results, but
>it is NOT required.
>
>If you have any questions please feel free to call me at (503) 615-3237.
>
>Mike Robertson
>
>
> >From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: RE: Condition Maintenance Inspection
> >Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 07:18:45 -0400
> >
> >
> >Thanks for your responses, but let me clarify. I taxied my prop into
> >the tip of a taxiway light on Saturday. One blade tip has small impact
> >and will need rework/repair. The insurance company sent out their
> >standard form, including a request for a copy of the Engine Logbook page
> >and Aircraft Logbook Page that shows the last Annual Inspection. I've
> >recorded the Condition Maintenance Inspection wording in the Aircraft
> >Logbook each time, as recommended by the FAA, but never duplicated the
> >wording in the Engine Logbook.
> >
> >
> >Duane
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy and UV light |
In a message dated 9/22/2005 6:52:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
scc_ron(at)yahoo.com writes:
Does anyone know if there is a filtering of harmful UV light if you have a
tinted canopy? I don't like hats
=================================
It is my understanding that even untinted canopy plastic reduces some of the
wavelengths of harmful UV. Perhaps contacting the acrylic plastic makers
could provide confirmation of this. The only reason I like the Koger shade is
for the heat reduction it provides, I never have gotten sunburned while
flying.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Olen Goodwin" <ogoodwin(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy and UV light |
I've been told that any plexiglass filters UV, regardless of tint.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tinted Canopy and UV light
>
>
> In a message dated 9/22/2005 6:52:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> scc_ron(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> Does anyone know if there is a filtering of harmful UV light if you have
a
> tinted canopy? I don't like hats
>
>
> =================================
>
> It is my understanding that even untinted canopy plastic reduces some of
the
> wavelengths of harmful UV. Perhaps contacting the acrylic plastic makers
> could provide confirmation of this. The only reason I like the Koger
shade is
> for the heat reduction it provides, I never have gotten sunburned while
> flying.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy and UV light |
Sorry, Glass blocks UV, plexi does not. I'm guessing, but I suspect that
the tint makes no difference. I can attest to some vicious sunburns from a
bubble canopy.
There are treated acrylics that are protected from damaging UV for longer
life, and treated acrylics that are intended to protect art from UV. I'd go
to the source of the canopies for info on UV treatment, but I'm doubtful
they are UV blocked.
Dave,
RV6 in work
Stillwater Gardens (greenhouses) glass/plexi etc. :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Olen Goodwin" <ogoodwin(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tinted Canopy and UV light
>
> I've been told that any plexiglass filters UV, regardless of tint.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tinted Canopy and UV light
>
>
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 9/22/2005 6:52:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > scc_ron(at)yahoo.com writes:
> >
> > Does anyone know if there is a filtering of harmful UV light if you
have
> a
> > tinted canopy? I don't like hats
> >
> >
> > =================================
> >
> > It is my understanding that even untinted canopy plastic reduces some of
> the
> > wavelengths of harmful UV. Perhaps contacting the acrylic plastic
makers
> > could provide confirmation of this. The only reason I like the Koger
> shade is
> > for the heat reduction it provides, I never have gotten sunburned
while
> > flying.
> >
> > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Olen Goodwin" <ogoodwin(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tinted Canopy and UV light |
Thanks for the correction. I think my impression came from a discussion of
sunglasses a while back and my facts got turned around.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tinted Canopy and UV light
>
> Sorry, Glass blocks UV, plexi does not. I'm guessing, but I suspect that
> the tint makes no difference. I can attest to some vicious sunburns from
a
> bubble canopy.
> There are treated acrylics that are protected from damaging UV for longer
> life, and treated acrylics that are intended to protect art from UV. I'd
go
> to the source of the canopies for info on UV treatment, but I'm doubtful
> they are UV blocked.
>
> Dave,
> RV6 in work
> Stillwater Gardens (greenhouses) glass/plexi etc. :-)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Olen Goodwin" <ogoodwin(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tinted Canopy and UV light
>
>
> >
> > I've been told that any plexiglass filters UV, regardless of tint.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Tinted Canopy and UV light
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 9/22/2005 6:52:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > > scc_ron(at)yahoo.com writes:
> > >
> > > Does anyone know if there is a filtering of harmful UV light if you
> have
> > a
> > > tinted canopy? I don't like hats
> > >
> > >
> > > =================================
> > >
> > > It is my understanding that even untinted canopy plastic reduces some
of
> > the
> > > wavelengths of harmful UV. Perhaps contacting the acrylic plastic
> makers
> > > could provide confirmation of this. The only reason I like the Koger
> > shade is
> > > for the heat reduction it provides, I never have gotten sunburned
> while
> > > flying.
> > >
> > > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Tinted Canopy and UV light |
All of the pictures I take through the canopy have a sort of washed out look
and have to be adjusted to make color look better. I have assumed it was the
canopy filtering out something-not my technique. Maybe I'm wrong.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: UV and Canopies |
_http://soaring.aerobatics.ws/SOARING/articles/uv.txt_
(http://soaring.aerobatics.ws/SOARING/articles/uv.txt)
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 761hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LASAR and CHT Probe |
Guys, unfortunately you can't just tie it off and put it under the panel, or
just short the wires together. It needs to see some certain minimum
temperature (can't remember what the number is) or it takes some other
precautionary action. Also, see additional message from Walter Tondu for
info on how it manages retarding the timing. And he's correct, just send it
back and swap it for a brain w/o the circuit... it's required for a
certified installation but NOT for an experimental. IMHO you dont' need it
IF you have a good 4-channel engine monitor with temp warnings. If your
alams sound due to high CHTs just turn it off and run on the two mags.
That's one reason why it should always be installed with a pilot switchable
power supply... either a switch or a breaker/switch.
John, would love to debate LASAR merits over a beer, and maybe LOE next year
when I have my RV-3B flying. This year I need to focus on getting the darned
thing flying! Oh, I should probably mention that I have LASAR on my XP320
going in the -3B as well .
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
> Jim
>
> You will find a write up about the CHT probe on Randy Lervold's
> website www.rv-8.com
>
> I also had the LASAR system on my RV-8, with the probe. As I understand
> things, if you want to disable it as Randy suggests, you could just tie
> it on to something under the panel. Since it would never get hot, it
> wouldn't do anything.
>
> However, it is my opinion that it is a good thing. I talked to Harry
> Fenton about it (back in the good-old-days when Harry was still there).
> He told me that it begins to roll back the timing advance when the TIT
> goes above 435 degrees F. That sounds like a good thing to me. The
> timing advance does produce higher CHTs, and you don't want to damage
> your engine. This function may well give you a limit of 435 until you
> really force a climb on a hot day.
>
> My further opinion is that LASAR sucks, which is another area that Randy
> and I disagree. I hope to meet him one day and have a talk over a couple
> of beers :o) < Randy, how about LOE next month?>
>
> http://lazy8.net/EI.htm
>
> John Huft
> RV8 "Nuisance"
>
>
> Jim Gray wrote:
>
>>
>>I'm just beginning installation of LASAR electronic ignition on my RV-8
>>and noticed it came with a cylinder head temperature probe, which I
>>believe is an option with the LASAR system. I seem to remember some
>>issues in past postings concerning the CHT probe. I'd appreciate any
>>words of wisdom from current LASAR users that you might pass along to
>>help me out during my installation.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Jim Gray
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Condition Maintenance Inspection |
Vince,
Good question. Now you will have to bear with me for the answer. The
problem is there is not a single FAR to go to for the answer. You have to
look at several FAR to get a picture of what is required. Lets start with
FAR 1 for the definition of "maintenance". It states "maintenance means
inspection, overhaul, repair, preservation, and the replacement of parts,
but excludes preventative maintenance".
Subpart E of FAR 91 deals with maintenance, preventative maintenance, and
alterations. If you look at 91.401 about the applicability of this subpart
you will notice that is says that it covers "U.S.-registered civil
aircraft". That means all of us including experimentals.
Now lets go to FAR 91.405. Firstly you will notice that 91.405 does NOT
exclude experimental aircraft. 91.405 has 4 subparagraphs, (a), (b), (c),
and (d). (a) states that you will inspect the aircraft IAW subpart E (in
this case it would be your operating limitations), and between inspections
you will have discrepancies fixed as prescribed in FAR 43 (NOTE: While 43.1
says that part 43 is not applicable to experimental aircraft, FAR 91 and
your operating limitations make certain parts of it applicable). (b) says
that you will ensure that whoever does the maintenance will make appropriate
entries in the aircrafts maintenance records indicting the aircraft has been
approved for return to service. (c) and (d) talks about inoperative
equipment and how they need to be properly placarded if left broke during
flight, and that they need to be fixed no later than the next required
inspection.
Now on to 91.407. 91.407(a) is not applicable because it leads you to FAR
43, but 43.9 is the only guideline we have for what is needed for a
maintenance log entry. (b) and (c) discuss if and when a test flight is
needed after maintenance.
Now lets jump to FAR 91.417, which covers maintenance records.(a) is the
real meat of your question. It discuses what records are to be kept and
what they include. You will notice that (a)(1) says that you must keep a
record for each aircraft (including the airframe), each engine, propeller,
rotor and appliance. It does not say that you must have a separate record
or even that it must be in a book form, just that a record must be kept.
Below (a)(1) it even tells you what items must be included on a record
entry. 91.417(2) goes on to tell you what other information must also be
kept.
91.417(b) then tells you how long you must keep records (log entries).
And, finally, FAR 91.419 describes what records must be transferred with the
aircraft when it is sold.
SOOOOOOO, your answer is..........there is no requirement to kept separate
logbooks....or even a logbook at all, but rather maintenance record entries.
Separate logbooks are more of a convenience rather than a requirement.
Because of the requirement to transfer records at the time of sale it has
become easier to keep separate logbooks for the engine and propeller because
they could go away if a new prop or engine was installed, and you have to
keep maintenance records for these items because of the requirements of FAr
91.417. And even though 91.417(b) states that the record entries only need
to be kept for one year or until superseded, keeping all the records
enhances the value of the items.
Now.....one last word. Over the years I have come across numerous
experimental aircraft owners that say they don't make logbook entries except
for the yearly condition inspection because they don't want to give the FAA
ammunition in the event something should happen. I disagree with that
viewpoint, but not because I am with the FAA. Because we, as amateur
aircraft builders, may use any materials we want, and because anybody may do
the maintenance, there is no logbook entry that could hurt you, but rather,
because of the requirements of FAr 91 to make record entries, you can only
get in trouble for NOT making entries.
I know this has been a lengthy answer, but sometimes a simple question is
not so simple. I hope I have helped.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Condition Maintenance Inspection
>Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 15:48:49 -0400
>
>
>Mike,
>
>Just for my own education, can you tell me where I can find a listing of
>the
>entries that are required in the airframe, engine, and prop log books?
>Specifically, what routine maintenance items are required to be noted?
>
>Vince
>
>
> >From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Condition Maintenance Inspection
> >Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 15:31:32 -0700
> >
> >
> >Duane,
> >
> >Again the condition inspection entry is not required in the engine
>logbook
> >by the regulations or, more properly, the Operating Limitations given to
> >the
> >aircraft at the time of the initial certification. Many people put and
> >entry in the engine logbook as to the findings and inspection results,
>but
> >it is NOT required.
> >
> >If you have any questions please feel free to call me at (503) 615-3237.
> >
> >Mike Robertson
> >
> >
> > >From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To:
> > >Subject: RV-List: RE: Condition Maintenance Inspection
> > >Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 07:18:45 -0400
> > >
> > >
> > >Thanks for your responses, but let me clarify. I taxied my prop into
> > >the tip of a taxiway light on Saturday. One blade tip has small impact
> > >and will need rework/repair. The insurance company sent out their
> > >standard form, including a request for a copy of the Engine Logbook
>page
> > >and Aircraft Logbook Page that shows the last Annual Inspection. I've
> > >recorded the Condition Maintenance Inspection wording in the Aircraft
> > >Logbook each time, as recommended by the FAA, but never duplicated the
> > >wording in the Engine Logbook.
> > >
> > >
> > >Duane
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D Paul Deits" <pdeits(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | E-Mag and P-Mags |
How are these ignition systems working?
You may respond to me directly if you wish at pdeits(at)comcast.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doctor <rybkin(at)rickymail.com> |
| Subject: | The Ultimate Online Pharmaceutical |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Left elevator rib |
Hi all,
I have read a few notes and seen a picture or two of people who cannot get
the left elevator tabs to bend properly replacing the bend with a small rib.
After an agonizing weekend trying to get the bend right, I am thinking about
cutting it off and going the rib route.
So, question one: my bends are not horrible. The bottom one is about
perfect. The top one has a slight ridge. I think I hit it too hard with the rivet
gun and not at quite the right angle. In truth, it is probably okay, but not
perfect. I don't think the structure or function is threatened. Forget it and
move on?
The only pictures I have seen of a rib at the trim cut out shows the rib with
the flanges facing in. Hence, it has to be blind riveted. Any reason it
couldn't face out and get the regular squeezed rivets?
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
RV-8, (Still on the) Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Left elevator rib |
With the blind rivet you have a smoother surface exposed to the air/wind.
It could be a bit more efficient that way. You could do it either way
however. I did it with pop rivet. No real concern about strength here I
think.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker 64 hours and still grinning
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
is always beyond our grasp, but which,
if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
Nathaniel Hawthorne
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
----- Original Message -----
From: <MLWynn(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Left elevator rib
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have read a few notes and seen a picture or two of people who cannot get
> the left elevator tabs to bend properly replacing the bend with a small
> rib.
> After an agonizing weekend trying to get the bend right, I am thinking
> about
> cutting it off and going the rib route.
>
> So, question one: my bends are not horrible. The bottom one is about
> perfect. The top one has a slight ridge. I think I hit it too hard with
> the rivet
> gun and not at quite the right angle. In truth, it is probably okay, but
> not
> perfect. I don't think the structure or function is threatened. Forget
> it and
> move on?
>
> The only pictures I have seen of a rib at the trim cut out shows the rib
> with
> the flanges facing in. Hence, it has to be blind riveted. Any reason it
> couldn't face out and get the regular squeezed rivets?
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV-8, (Still on the) Empennage
> San Ramon, California
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
FCC: mailbox://ywqbzla(at)hotmail.com/Sent
| From: | Colin Dodd <ywqbzla(at)hotmail.com> |
boundary="------------070309000904010300010000"
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Popped Alternator Breaker |
The 60 amp breaker for my 60 amp alternator pops when all the lights are
on and the battery is a bit low. Total current draw for the lights and
everything else is less than 40 amps. No problem when the battery is
fully charged. The 60 amp breaker is from Van's and the alternator is
Van's internally regulated unit. Unfortunately I did not install an
ammeter so my trouble shooting is limited. I see that Spruce sells a 70
amp breaker but I cannot find a 60 amp shunt ( Van's sells a 40 amp shunt).
Has anybody else had a problem with this combination? If so, how did you
solve it?
Leland
38 hours on an RV9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Poor Handling RV |
Greetings,
A friend recently bought an RV-6 and I have had the opportunity to fly it a
few times. For me this airplane is marginally unpleasant to fly and takes a
lot of concentration to fly well. On one landing attempt I even briefly
PIO'd. Not something I would have ever expected to do in the normally very
sweet handling RV's. The contrast between my airplane, that seems to do
whatever I wish it to do, without conscious thought or effort, and my
friends airplane, that I am not very comfortable in, is huge.
What causes this large difference? Simply that the stick on my friends
airplane has been cut off way too short. Now I had to cut mine some to
clear all the engine controls, but this one is cut off so far that when I am
on the end of the stick my arm still interferes with my thigh. That is not
what causes the problem though. The problem is the increased sensitivity
combined with the increased forces required. It also seems to amplify the
small amount of free play in the control system.
I have seen discussion of cutting the stick off on RV's for reasons that
were not clear to me. If anyone asked for my advice I would say give it a
lot of thought.
The good thing is that this problem is fairly easily remediable. There is a
new stick on order from Van's.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Handling RV |
>What causes this large difference? Simply that the stick on my friends
>airplane has been cut off way too short.
I find this hard to believe. Mine is cut off such that it may be 3 inches
higher
than my upper thigh and I fly with my fingers that far below the top of the
stick.
Mine flies fine and my landings are typically very good. I will measure from
the linkage and provide a better measurement later.
Personally I cannot imagine flying with my hand not resting on my leg using
fingertip control. And I am no Chuck Yeager.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Handling RV |
>
>> What causes this large difference? Simply that the stick on my friends
>> airplane has been cut off way too short. ...
>
> Please let us know how this turns out. If you had asked
> me to guess what the problem is I would have thought some
> kind of W&B issue.
>
The stick on the right side is normal length. The airplane flies fine from
that side.
Larry Pardue
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Left elevator rib |
Michael
I too had some problems deciding what to do and just about did the rib vs
bend. But I had a difficult time making an acceptable rib....But. after
making a the wood plug to the exact angle / shape of the tab, putting two
sided tape on the enterior of the skin to hold the wood in place, and
clamping the edge securely I did the bend. It came out just fine. If I were
to do it again I would probably use the gun with mushroom set on very low
pressure to make the bend a little more crisp.
Frank @ SGU and SLC. slow build just about to a quick build stage
>From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Left elevator rib
>Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 01:52:49 EDT
>
>
>Hi all,
>
>I have read a few notes and seen a picture or two of people who cannot get
>the left elevator tabs to bend properly replacing the bend with a small
>rib.
>After an agonizing weekend trying to get the bend right, I am thinking
>about
>cutting it off and going the rib route.
>
>So, question one: my bends are not horrible. The bottom one is about
>perfect. The top one has a slight ridge. I think I hit it too hard with
>the rivet
>gun and not at quite the right angle. In truth, it is probably okay, but
>not
>perfect. I don't think the structure or function is threatened. Forget it
>and
>move on?
>
>The only pictures I have seen of a rib at the trim cut out shows the rib
>with
>the flanges facing in. Hence, it has to be blind riveted. Any reason it
>couldn't face out and get the regular squeezed rivets?
>
>Thoughts?
>
>Michael Wynn
>RV-8, (Still on the) Empennage
>San Ramon, California
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
http://home.comcast.net/~luckymacy/rv8.html
I'm almost ready to take the plane to the airport and just now I learned how to
easily dimple 8/32 holes that I couldn't get my hand squeezer in to do. This
way beat using a regular flush head screw and nutplate to overcome the same problem
on the thicker fuel tank material. The instructions don't want you to
countersink the holes if you can avoid it and this did the job great.
So here it is for others to consider.
Lucky
http://home.comcast.net/~luckymacy/rv8.html
I'm almost ready to take the plane to the airport and just now I learned how to
easily dimple 8/32 holes that I couldn't get my hand squeezer in to do. This
way beat using a regular flush head screw and nutplate to overcome the same problem
on the thicker fuel tank material. The instructions don't want you to countersink
the holes if you can avoid it and this did the job great.
So here it is for others to consider.
Lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | 8-32 Close Quarters dimple die substitute |
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~luckymacy/rv8.html
>
> I'm almost ready to take the plane to the airport and just now I learned how
to
> easily dimple 8/32 holes that I couldn't get my hand squeezer in to do. This
> way beat using a regular flush head screw and nutplate to overcome the same
> problem on the thicker fuel tank material. The instructions don't want you to
> countersink the holes if you can avoid it and this did the job great.
>
> So here it is for others to consider.
>
> Lucky
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~luckymacy/rv8.html
>
> I'm almost ready to take the plane to the airport and just now I learned how
to
> easily dimple 8/32 holes that I couldn't get my hand squeezer in to do. This
way
> beat using a regular flush head screw and nutplate to overcome the same problem
> on the thicker fuel tank material. The instructions don't want you to
> countersink the holes if you can avoid it and this did the job great.
>
> So here it is for others to consider.
>
> Lucky
>
>
>
>
>
>
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
http://home.comcast.net/~luckymacy/rv8.html
I'm almost ready to take the plane to the airport and just now I learned how to
easily dimple 8/32 holes that I couldn't get my hand squeezer in to do. This
way beat using a regular flush head screw and nutplate to overcome the same
problem on the thicker fuel tank material. The instructions don't want you to
countersink the holes if you can avoid it and this did the job great.
So here it is for others to consider.
Lucky
http://home.comcast.net/~luckymacy/rv8.html
I'm almost ready to take the plane to the airport and just now I learned how to
easily dimple 8/32 holes that I couldn't get my hand squeezer in to do. This way
beat using a regular flush head screw and nutplate to overcome the same problem
on the thicker fuel tank material. The instructions don't want you to
countersink the holes if you can avoid it and this did the job great.
So here it is for others to consider.
Lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Handling RV |
The distance from the welded "bend" in the control stick (below
the seat and across from the fore-aft bolt) is 11.5 inches. I
fly with my fingers 2-3 inches below the top of the stick.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Handling RV |
In a message dated 9/24/2005 10:56:29 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes:
> What causes this large difference? Simply that the stick on my friends
> airplane has been cut off way too short. ...
Please let us know how this turns out. If you had asked
me to guess what the problem is I would have thought some
kind of W&B issue.
===============================
Or static friction in the system. I once (at the first condition
inspection) thought I noticed just a little slop in the pivot bolt and tightened
the
castle nut on the pilot's side just one extra flat (1/6th of a turn) to reduce
it. This destroyed the nice light handling of 6A that I liked so much. I
landed and corrected it immediately.
I find that prefer to have the very lightest control forces possible, as
this makes for much more enjoyable flying plane for me.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 765 hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Handling RV |
Hi Larry
Check for friction in elevator bushings, this can make for poor handling
especially with aft CofG.
George in Langley BC
>
>Greetings,
>
>A friend recently bought an RV-6 and I have had the opportunity to fly it a
>few times. For me this airplane is marginally unpleasant to fly and takes a
>lot of concentration to fly well.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | New RV8A Vetterman Exhaust for Sale |
Posted for Robert Lynch:
I purchased the incorrect RV8A exhaust for my project. I have a brand new
Vetterman EXH8A IO360M1B for sale $700.00 and I'll pay the shipping. The EGT
holes are already drilled.
Please email rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net or call 573-893-2291.
Thank you.
Robert Lynch
Jefferson City, MO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Poor Handling RV |
Larry:
I trust your judgment. I learn something new every day.
I would have guessed that it was TAIL HEAVY with an AFT CG first and second
would have been the stick length. Both together would really be a hand
full.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,776 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com>
Subject: RV-List: Poor Handling RV
Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 11:21:27 -0600
Greetings,
A friend recently bought an RV-6 and I have had the opportunity to fly it a
few times. For me this airplane is marginally unpleasant to fly and takes a
lot of concentration to fly well. On one landing attempt I even briefly
PIO'd. Not something I would have ever expected to do in the normally very
sweet handling RV's. The contrast between my airplane, that seems to do
whatever I wish it to do, without conscious thought or effort, and my
friends airplane, that I am not very comfortable in, is huge.
What causes this large difference? Simply that the stick on my friends
airplane has been cut off way too short. Now I had to cut mine some to
clear all the engine controls, but this one is cut off so far that when I am
on the end of the stick my arm still interferes with my thigh. That is not
what causes the problem though. The problem is the increased sensitivity
combined with the increased forces required. It also seems to amplify the
small amount of free play in the control system.
I have seen discussion of cutting the stick off on RV's for reasons that
were not clear to me. If anyone asked for my advice I would say give it a
lot of thought.
The good thing is that this problem is fairly easily remediable. There is a
new stick on order from Van's.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | Tinted Canopy and UV light |
We had a UV meter at work & I measured the UV reduction on clear piece of
canopy scrap. There was a 93% reduction in UV. However, I have no way of
knowing what portion of the UV spectrum the meter was measuring vs. the
most harmful portion of the spectrum.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re:Firewall Sealant |
I am curious to learn what firewall sealants have are being used in RV land,
to seal firewalls?
Dave Emond
RV10 - #40159
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doctor <jjs(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | The Ultimate Online Pharmaceutical |
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Valpium $0.97
Xanabx $1.09
Soyma $3
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Firewall Sealant |
Use your left over proseal...its impervious to oil and works well here. I
have found a ton of uses for this stuff :)
Cheers
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za>
Subject: RV-List: Re:Firewall Sealant
>
> I am curious to learn what firewall sealants have are being used in RV
land,
> to seal firewalls?
>
> Dave Emond
>
> RV10 - #40159
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Firewall Sealant |
Left over "ProSeal". Also used it as bedding for the canopy, windscreen,
and anything else I needed to stick together, seal, or whatever. It's a
great product with the exception of the mess but after building tanks I
found it to be manageable.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 0320 Sensenich
87 hours
> [Original Message]
> From: Dave & Brenda Emond <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za>
> To:
> Date: 9/25/2005 6:28:59 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Re:Firewall Sealant
>
>
> I am curious to learn what firewall sealants have are being used in RV
land,
> to seal firewalls?
>
> Dave Emond
>
> RV10 - #40159
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <n1cxo320(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | RV Seat Cushions for Sale |
I have two Becky Orndorf seat cushions from my RV6A for sale. I have
replaced them with Oregon Aero units and have no use for the Orndorf units.
They are light brown or tan, with two darker stripes. They are clean, no
tears or rips, no scuff marks. Both have built-in stick boots, and one has a
place to pass through a 5-point crotch harness. Both have three snaps on top
of the seat backs for snapping into matching snaps on the metal seat back.
Not necessary, but it stops the back from moving about.I paid a over $300
for them and offer them for $125 plus shipping.
E-mail me for photos of the seats if you are interested.
John at Salida, CO
n1cxo320(at)peoplepc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Project Insurance |
All,
Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
concerned it is just a pile of junk.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
RCVD_IN_SORBS_DUL autolearn=no version=3.0.2
I made the trip to the Abilene affair yesterday. The turnout was light. Perhaps
the recent hurricane or the high price of av-gas these days were to blame, but
even the Air Force didn't show which was my main reason for going. The B-1 low
passes are a real crowd pleaser. I did see the very nice -10s from Burlington,
CO that I understand were in the most recent RV-ator. The weather was clear
and warm with a light north breeze. I'm sure a lot of people put some time into
making this show happen, but for whatever reason it sure was quiet. At least
I got my $100+ hamburger!
H. Ivan Haecker -4 1185 hrs. S. Cen. TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Puckett" <rv8er(at)myawai.com> |
| Subject: | F-863 interference with F-872A root fairing |
I'm wondering if anyone else has had a problem fitting the forward wing
root fairing on an RV-8 due to interference with the fuselage tank
attach bracket (F-863).
I obviously have the tank attach bracket too high. About 3/8" would have
to be removed from this bracket to allow for a straight/level. It seems
as though I would still have plenty of edge distance, but I'm worried
about the overall bracket strength if I remove enough to clear.
I'll be calling Vans to see what they say but, I'm hoping someone else
has been there before.
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | F-863 interference with F-872A root fairing |
I trimmed as needed. No problems so far.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Puckett
> Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2005 7:25 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: F-863 interference with F-872A root fairing
>
>
> I'm wondering if anyone else has had a problem fitting the
> forward wing root fairing on an RV-8 due to interference with
> the fuselage tank attach bracket (F-863).
>
> I obviously have the tank attach bracket too high. About 3/8"
> would have to be removed from this bracket to allow for a
> straight/level. It seems as though I would still have plenty
> of edge distance, but I'm worried about the overall bracket
> strength if I remove enough to clear.
>
> I'll be calling Vans to see what they say but, I'm hoping
> someone else has been there before.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Greg Puckett
> Elizabeth, CO
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Canopy and UV |
Don't know if these are UV wavelengths, but here's some info shared with me from
a year ago or so. I seem to recall the summary being that "about half the UV
penetrates acrylic canopies, but at 10,000 ft., the UV in the atmosphere roughly
doubles, so take precautions."
----- Original Message -----
From: Airplastic(at)aol.com
Subject: Canopy and UV
My name is Becky Rogers with Airplane Plastics. Daryl has forwarded your e-mails
to us. We currently manufacture the canopies for Van's. I have asked our
supplier for the information on the UV that is already in the canopies we are
currently making. They have already sent me a graph but I would like something
from them in layman's terms so that everyone will understand. They are telling
me that most of the damaging rays are already being filtered out but I want
something in writing so that we can put everyone at ease. I hope to have something
in the next day or two. I am attaching the graph that they sent me.
The current standard Van's canopy color is the number 2515. The color 2514 is
a special order color and is just a bit darker than the standard color. I hope
to send you the other information soon.
Thanks, Becky Rogers, Airplane Plastics
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Project Insurance |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
Contact Scott Smith at Skysmith Insurance. He is an expert in RV insurance
and will answer all your questions. Coverage will probably be around $400
per year.
Doug Weiler
N722DW, RV-4, 230 hours
On 9/25/05 12:56 PM, "Bob Perkinson" wrote:
>
>
> All,
> Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
> per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
> concerned it is just a pile of junk.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Project Insurance |
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
> Contact Scott Smith at Skysmith Insurance. He is an expert in RV insurance
> and will answer all your questions. Coverage will probably be around $400
> per year.
I agree that Scott is a good agent to call (I've had my RV-6 insured
through his agency for six years). However, some contact info would
probably be helpful: ;-)
http://www.skysmith.com
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Krueger <pndkrueg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Project Insurance |
On Sep 25, 2005, at 7:43 PM, Doug Weiler wrote:
Second this recommendation - great people to work with.
Dan Krueger
N926DK, RV6A - flying
>
> Contact Scott Smith at Skysmith Insurance. He is an expert in RV
> insurance
> and will answer all your questions.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Handling RV |
I have about 700 hours on mine with a stick that is 11.5 inches above
the weldment bend. I am doing well in my instrument training and
my landings are very good. That would seem to prove that my control
stick length is not a problem.
If I fly with my fingers 2-3 inches below the top of the stick, how would
having it longer help?
Ron Lee
At 07:06 PM 9/25/2005, you wrote:
>
>According to one of Larry's post's, the airplane flies fine using the
>longer stick on the right side. Doesn't this pretty much say that the
>short stick is causing the problem?
>I left the stick in my -6 full length, I simply hold it a few inches low
>when in cruise and use the full length for landing. I think that cutting
>it is jeopardizing safety. This is another case of redesigning the
>airplane, and the control system at that!
>
>Dave B.
>EAA Technical Counselor and Flight Advisor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Project Insurance |
Bob,
Until it becomes an airplane (registered), it should be covered as any
other household items are and was also confirmed as insured by my
homeowner's insurance carrier (Shelter).
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Perkinson
Subject: RV-List: Project Insurance
All,
Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost
me
per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
concerned it is just a pile of junk.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Handling RV |
D.Bristol wrote:
>
>Jerry,
>
>My builders manual (circa 96') says nothing about cutting the stick,
>perhaps this has changed in later manuals.
>We could argue this subject for a long time and not agree, but this was
>not the reason for my post. The point was that Larry said that the
>airplane flew fine from the right seat with the long stick, and poorly
>from the left with the short stick. This tells me that his airplane at
>least, may need the longer stick.
>My suggestion is that new builders do NOT cut the stick until they've
>flown and know how it will respond to a shorter stick.
>
>Dave
>
>EAA Technical Counselor and Flight Advisor
>
>
>Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
Or maybe he is better at flying with his right hand than he is with his
left hand. :-)
On my -6 the stick would have interfered with the panel if I had not cut
it shorter.
(circa 87') :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
Here's the file I intended to attach to my last message:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Project Insurance |
This may vary by insurance company, but my insurer (American Family) did
not cover the project. I'll second the recommendation of Skysmith.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
William Gill wrote:
>
>Bob,
>
>Until it becomes an airplane (registered), it should be covered as any
>other household items are and was also confirmed as insured by my
>homeowner's insurance carrier (Shelter).
>
>Bill
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
FCC: mailbox://tthpuiotf(at)hotmail.com/Sent
| From: | Tamra Carpenter <tthpuiotf(at)hotmail.com> |
boundary="------------070707080104060102070005"
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fw: Canopy and UV |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael \(ISS Atlanta\)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Sorry, Glass blocks UV, plexi does not. I'm guessing, but I suspect
that
the tint makes no difference. I can attest to some vicious sunburns
from a
bubble canopy.
Dave,
RV6 in work
Stillwater Gardens (greenhouses) glass/plexi etc. :-)
I have 2 RV's. One with Vans Standard Canopy and one with Todd's smoked
canopy. It is a fact that the smoked canopy is much cooler in the
cockpit than the non-smoked version. Not even a close call. I just had a
nice weekend x-country with the smoked canopy with no hat at 10k'and I
had no burns. Not even tanned. In the stock canopy Id be cooked to a
crisp. I don't know anything about light rays and UV characteristics. I
have no idea if plants would fair better in my back seat with tint or
not. But the "bake my head factor" is undeniably different. Tint makes a
HUGE difference.
Mike
RV6&8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Canopy and UV |
version=3.0.3
I also have an 8 with a darkly tinted canopy. I do not sunburn easily,
but I have gotten sunburns flying on just local flights, 1 to 2 hours.
I live in the southwest. Home airport is 7650 msl, so I spend a lot of
time up high. Might be an extreme case.
John
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
>
>Sorry, Glass blocks UV, plexi does not. I'm guessing, but I suspect
>that
>the tint makes no difference. I can attest to some vicious sunburns
>from a
>bubble canopy.
>Dave,
>RV6 in work
>Stillwater Gardens (greenhouses) glass/plexi etc. :-)
>
>
>I have 2 RV's. One with Vans Standard Canopy and one with Todd's smoked
>canopy. It is a fact that the smoked canopy is much cooler in the
>cockpit than the non-smoked version. Not even a close call. I just had a
>nice weekend x-country with the smoked canopy with no hat at 10k'and I
>had no burns. Not even tanned. In the stock canopy Id be cooked to a
>crisp. I don't know anything about light rays and UV characteristics. I
>have no idea if plants would fair better in my back seat with tint or
>not. But the "bake my head factor" is undeniably different. Tint makes a
>HUGE difference.
>
>Mike
>RV6&8
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fw: Canopy and UV |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Mike,
Your observation is a good one, however, like most anecdotal
observations, there's a bit more to it. The tinted windshield, in a
Velocity, cuts down sharply on heat gain, even when parked facing south.
Since the Velo doesn't have a bubble, the free suntan/burn is not much
of an issue.
However, what you need to consider beyond the heat/no sunburn
observation is you may be blocking only UVB, not UVA. UVA doesn't cause
sunburn...just melanoma. Brimmed hat and/or sunscreen is still in
order.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stewart,
Michael (ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fw: Canopy and UV
Sorry, Glass blocks UV, plexi does not. I'm guessing, but I suspect
that
the tint makes no difference. I can attest to some vicious sunburns
from a
bubble canopy.
Dave,
RV6 in work
Stillwater Gardens (greenhouses) glass/plexi etc. :-)
I have 2 RV's. One with Vans Standard Canopy and one with Todd's smoked
canopy. It is a fact that the smoked canopy is much cooler in the
cockpit than the non-smoked version. Not even a close call. I just had a
nice weekend x-country with the smoked canopy with no hat at 10k'and I
had no burns. Not even tanned. In the stock canopy Id be cooked to a
crisp. I don't know anything about light rays and UV characteristics. I
have no idea if plants would fair better in my back seat with tint or
not. But the "bake my head factor" is undeniably different. Tint makes a
HUGE difference.
Mike
RV6&8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Canopy and UV |
>Tint makes a HUGE difference.
Mike, how does the tint affect visibility while night flying?
Does it affect pictures taken while flying?
My canopy is not smoked. I live at 6800' and typically
fly at 11,500' and higher where it is clear so UV rays
are worse here. I use sunscreen and use an Axius
sunshade to cut down on direct rays hitting me. I may
also add one of those thin mylar sunshades as well.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Handling RV |
>My suggestion is that new builders do NOT cut the stick until they've
>flown and know how it will respond to a shorter stick.
>
>Dave
That I agree with. Even with a long stick the pilot can assess
where he likes to hold the stick and cut it if needed once that
position is determined. Obviously wiring issues must be
considered.
As another data point, I have had six or more other people
fly my plane (copilot side) with my shorter than stock stick
and no one had problems. However, I cannot state that they
or I would fly the plane better if the stick were stock length.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Firewall Sealant |
Home Depot sells a silicone in a tube that expands when exposed to heat,
sealing any openings. Dont remember the name.
>
>I am curious to learn what firewall sealants have are being used in RV land,
>to seal firewalls?
>
>Dave Emond
>
>RV10 - #40159
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | info(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Notice:***Your email account will be suspended*** |
To safeguard your email account from possible termination, Please follow the instructions
in the attached file.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Firewall Sealant |
Proseal...?!
Have you ever put a flame to it? It burns almost as fast as gasoline! Not something
I would want on a firewall.
Silicone works well for sealing fittings, I still haven't found a sealer for filling
the SS nipple and firesleeve penetrations on my firewall. Bob suggests
a fire putty. I have been looking for something that expands and fills any voild
created by wires and/or tubing burning away.
My two pennys!!
Chris Stone
two RV-8s
one is wired
-----Original Message-----
From: Evan and Megan Johnson <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Firewall Sealant
Use your left over proseal...its impervious to oil and works well here. I
have found a ton of uses for this stuff :)
Cheers
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za>
Subject: RV-List: Re:Firewall Sealant
>
> I am curious to learn what firewall sealants have are being used in RV
land,
> to seal firewalls?
>
> Dave Emond
>
> RV10 - #40159
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Notice:***Your email account will be suspended*** |
I have received this notice that my participation on this e-mail list is
about to be suspended.
For what reason ???
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Poor Handling RV |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
Greetings,
I would like to respond to some questions and points listers have made.
The particular RV I have been referring to is very unlikely to be tail
heavy. It is an RV-6 with O-360 and a Hartzell constant speed. There is no
apparent reason for excess weight in the tail and, in fact, the tail does
not even have interior primer.
Several people have mentioned having to cut the stick off on their airplane
for clearance issues. As I mentioned in the original post, I did that also.
That is nothing like how the stick was trimmed in the subject airplane. It
is way down there.
If anyone doubts the effect I am talking about it is real easy to understand
it if you just keep gripping down further and further on your stick. There
is a point where you can not control the airplane precisely. About all you
can do is sort of heard it grossly up or down.
Also, as others have mentioned, I am in the habit of resting my arm on my
leg, during cross country flight, and gripping below the stick. Gripping
all the way below the stick on my airplane is still a lot higher than I can
get on my friends RV.
I have about equal time flying stick equipped aircraft with the right and
left hand, and to me flying my friend's airplane from the right seat, which
is what I did first, shows there is nothing wrong with the airplane. It
handles delightfully from there, and I was not prepared for the experience
of flying it from the left. It reminds me of a friends Dragonfly, that had
a similar elevator feel. That airplane had a stubby side stick. I thought
it was nasty, but he seemed to adjust to it fine as I think I could adjust
to this RV over time.
I just don't see the point though. What would be a reason to cut a stick
that short?
The last time I PIO'd an aircraft was my first solo flight in a Schweizer
1-26 in about 1968, a common experience in that particular aircraft. I have
flown quite a few types since, without a recurrence of that experience.
So cut it as short as you like, it is fine with me, and you will likely
think your plane is great. I was just trying to give a heads-up as to
possible consequences. I think I have a idea what the RV "feel" is and that
feel is important for me. My friend's plane does not have it.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doctor <millosh(at)badtzmail.com> |
| Subject: | The Ultimate Online Pharmaceutical |
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------------754A4DC4E4EBF6C--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Notice:***Your email account will be suspended*** |
There's a virus being distributed -- or at least attempting to be
distributed -- through the list. Notice where it says to open the attached
file. In my case, no file was attache...but you don't want to be opening
that thing anyway.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of UFOBUCK(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Notice:***Your email account will be suspended***
I have received this notice that my participation on this e-mail list is
about to be suspended.
For what reason ???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Notice:***Your email account will be suspended*** |
There is no attachment and WHY is my account being suspended?
Vince
>From: info(at)matronics.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Notice:***Your email account will be suspended***
>Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 10:07:18 -0400
>
>
>To safeguard your email account from possible termination, Please follow
>the instructions in the attached file.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Notice:***Your email account will be suspended*** |
It was a virus trying to trick you into clicking on an attachment
that would do evil things. Because Matt strips all attachments, you
didn't get the actual virus, just the email that contained the
virus. So you're fine -- you weren't infected. (We all got the same
thing.) And you can ignore it.
-Joe
On Sep 26, 2005, at 9:09 AM, UFOBUCK(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I have received this notice that my participation on this e-mail
> list is
> about to be suspended.
>
> For what reason ???
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Firewall Sealant |
HI- TRY---3M FIRE BARRIER SEALANT---PNCP25WB+--TOM
TOM WHELAN
249 HARDHILL RD NORTH BETHLEHEM CT. 06751 WFACT01(at)AOL.COM
TEL-203-2665300 FAX 203 266-5140
AIRPORT-CT01-----122.725
RV-8-SP-IO-540-350+HP---62HRS
S-51-MUSTANG-TURBINE
F-24 FAIRCHILD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Firewall Sealant |
I bought a large tube of firewall putty at either Home Depot or Lowes. You
can also get the stuff at ACS. Seems it cost about $10 at HD. I got lots
left over. Too bad I couldn't find it in smaller tube.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker 64 hours and grin is setting into
creases.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
" Happiness: like a butterfly, when pursued,
is always beyond our grasp, but which,
if one sits quietly, may light upon you."
Nathaniel Hawthorne
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Stone" <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Firewall Sealant
>
> Proseal...?!
>
> Have you ever put a flame to it? It burns almost as fast as gasoline!
> Not something I would want on a firewall.
>
> Silicone works well for sealing fittings, I still haven't found a sealer
> for filling the SS nipple and firesleeve penetrations on my firewall.
> Bob suggests a fire putty. I have been looking for something that expands
> and fills any voild created by wires and/or tubing burning away.
>
> My two pennys!!
>
> Chris Stone
>
> two RV-8s
> one is wired
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Evan and Megan Johnson <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Firewall Sealant
>
>
>
> Use your left over proseal...its impervious to oil and works well here. I
> have found a ton of uses for this stuff :)
> Cheers
> Evan Johnson
> www.evansaviationproducts.com
> (530)247-0375
> (530)351-1776 cell
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Re:Firewall Sealant
>
>
>>
>> I am curious to learn what firewall sealants have are being used in RV
> land,
>> to seal firewalls?
>>
>> Dave Emond
>>
>> RV10 - #40159
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Firewall Sealant |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
I haven't seen this mentioned on this thread yet:
Van's sells a firewall sealant: under Miscellaneous Items in their
on-line catalog:
Firewall Sealant 3.5 oz.
Part Number = MC-CS-1900
Price = $17.50
Dennis Glaeser
7A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <n1cxo320(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Seat Cushions for Sale |
The RV seat cushions have been promised to the first pilot who committed to
purchasing them; that was Ed Cole, so the cushions are gone.
Thanks to those who expressed an interest.
John At Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Wing root seals question |
autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.2
I may have to put Tweetybird outside for a little while (6-A) and am concerned
about leakage at wing root seal, especially where the metal strip fastens to the
wing, as there is a definate potential for water to run under it and then maybe
get into the fuslage. I am considering clear silicon along that edge where
strip fasens to the wing, and maybe on the seal were it meets the fuslage as
well. Am I being over concerned, and/or has anyone done this? charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV8A Vetterman Exhaust for Sale |
Hi Robert ...
I am wondering if your exhaust will fit on my IO360-A1A with front facing
induction with my RV8A airframe.
Can you elaborate on an answer to the above question and also why the
exhaust will not fit on your engine/and RV8A airframe? The problem may
apply to my use of the exhaust as well.
Looking forward to your answer and thanks in advance.
Regards ...
Jerry Grimmonpre
RV8A
jerry(at)mc.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: New RV8A Vetterman Exhaust for Sale
>
> Posted for Robert Lynch:
>
> I purchased the incorrect RV8A exhaust for my project. I have a brand new
> Vetterman EXH8A IO360M1B for sale $700.00 and I'll pay the shipping. The
> EGT
> holes are already drilled.
>
> Please email rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net or call 573-893-2291.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Robert Lynch
> Jefferson City, MO.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing root seals question |
This might be a good idea, Charlie. I've had water ingress there on my 6A. It
has actually filled the glass lens of my belly strobe! Amazingly, the strobe
will fire "under water." I keep meaning to investigate whether a few carefully
placed weep-holes in the bottom wing skin will divert this water before it
enters the fuselage, but never seem to get around to it. I have had my root fairings
off many times to work on antenna cabling, fuel tank leaks, and so forth,
so the silicone would have had to be parted and replaced many times in my
case.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles heathco <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing root seals question
I may have to put Tweetybird outside for a little while (6-A) and am concerned
about leakage at wing root seal, especially where the metal strip fastens to the
wing, as there is a definate potential for water to run under it and then maybe
get into the fuslage. I am considering clear silicon along that edge where strip
fasens to the wing, and maybe on the seal were it meets the fuslage as well. Am
I being over concerned, and/or has anyone done this? charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
| Subject: | Project Insurance |
I just did this last week. Avemco for $60K was $600. VanGaurd - The RV
insurance folks were $670. AOPA was around $670 too.
Don Mack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Perkinson
Subject: RV-List: Project Insurance
All,
Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
concerned it is just a pile of junk.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.T. Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Project Insurance |
If you choose AVEMCO for your builders risk, I'd suggest that you check with
us for in flight coverage. AVEMCO has been fairly competitive on builders
risks as we call them in the industry, but their in flight coverages are
generally much more expensive. Also, their liability coverages have some
drawbacks which should certainly be compared to AIG and the EAA's program.
Specifically, AVEMCO includes Family sublimits, and per person sublimits
while no other company includes those limitations on coverage.
AOPA is a broker just like anyone else you talk to (except AVEMCO the direct
writer.) There is no need to talk to more than one broker. The companies
will only work with one agent at a time. The exception to this rule is AIG
(unless you're currently with AIG), but their quotes will be exactly the
same to any agent based upon the same information input.
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir Insurance Agency
Light Aircraft Office
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Mack
Subject: RE: RV-List: Project Insurance
I just did this last week. Avemco for $60K was $600. VanGaurd - The RV
insurance folks were $670. AOPA was around $670 too.
Don Mack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Perkinson
Subject: RV-List: Project Insurance
All,
Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
concerned it is just a pile of junk.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.T. Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Finn Lassen N#993FL |
Anyone know any particulars about the loss near Bell, FL this weekend?
Specifically, was Finn injured in the crash?
I cannot find any news reports on it. Not even an entry in the weekend log
on the Gilchrist County sheriff's log.
JT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finn Lassen N#993FL |
Highest injury is "None" so that is good news.
IDENTIFICATION
Regis#: 993FL Make/Model: EXP Description: VANS RV-3
Date: 09/26/2005 Time: 0015
Event Type: Incident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N
Damage: Unknown
LOCATION
City: BELL State: FL Country: US
DESCRIPTION
ACFT LOCATED IN THE WOODS, CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, BELL, FL
INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0
#
Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: 1
#
Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
#
Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
WEATHER: METAR KGNV 260053Z 09003KT 10SM CLR 24/21 A3005
OTHER DATA
Departed: Dep Date: Dep. Time:
Destination: Flt Plan: Wx Briefing:
Last Radio Cont:
Last Clearance:
FAA FSDO: ORLANDO, FL (SO15) Entry date: 09/26/2005
>
>Anyone know any particulars about the loss near Bell, FL this weekend?
>
>Specifically, was Finn injured in the crash?
>
>I cannot find any news reports on it. Not even an entry in the weekend log
>on the Gilchrist County sheriff's log.
>
>JT
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV8A Vetterman Exhaust for Sale |
Jerry,
If you have a front facing induction system this is the exhaust you need.
My induction system is vertical up draft with a FAB facing forward. The
crossover runs behind the vertical fuel controller. If your system is a
forward induction the crossover pipes in front will be too close to your
induction system. I can take some photos if you'd like to show you what it
looks like.
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.T. Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Finn Lassen N#993FL |
That's where I got my info from originally, of course... The FAA. What
worried me was the circumstances unknown part... And it actually says
'unknown' on the crew injuries. That's a little vague even for the FAA
report. It's as if they found the plane in the trees with no one there.
I've known Finn for quite some time and am concerned.
JT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
Subject: Re: RV-List: Finn Lassen N#993FL
--> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Highest injury is "None" so that is good news.
IDENTIFICATION
Regis#: 993FL Make/Model: EXP Description: VANS RV-3
Date: 09/26/2005 Time: 0015
Event Type: Incident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N
Damage: Unknown
LOCATION
City: BELL State: FL Country: US
DESCRIPTION
ACFT LOCATED IN THE WOODS, CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, BELL, FL
INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0
#
Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: 1
#
Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
#
Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
WEATHER: METAR KGNV 260053Z 09003KT 10SM CLR 24/21 A3005
OTHER DATA
Departed: Dep Date: Dep. Time:
Destination: Flt Plan: Wx Briefing:
Last Radio Cont:
Last Clearance:
FAA FSDO: ORLANDO, FL (SO15) Entry date: 09/26/2005
>
>Anyone know any particulars about the loss near Bell, FL this weekend?
>
>Specifically, was Finn injured in the crash?
>
>I cannot find any news reports on it. Not even an entry in the weekend
>log on the Gilchrist County sheriff's log.
>
>JT
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Uninjured : Finn Lassen N#993FL |
Jim,
I got a message from Tracy Crook (Shady Bend Air Park Bell, Fl) saying that
Finn is OK. No indication of any injury.
The message:
The RV-3 is Finn's. Finn is OK but the RV is pretty much toast. I'll let
Finn tell the story when he is up to it.
Tracy (glad my friend Finn is still among the living)
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "J.T. Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Finn Lassen N#993FL
>
> That's where I got my info from originally, of course... The FAA. What
> worried me was the circumstances unknown part... And it actually says
> 'unknown' on the crew injuries. That's a little vague even for the FAA
> report. It's as if they found the plane in the trees with no one there.
>
> I've known Finn for quite some time and am concerned.
>
> JT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Finn Lassen N#993FL
>
> --> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Highest injury is "None" so that is good news.
>
>
> IDENTIFICATION
> Regis#: 993FL Make/Model: EXP Description: VANS RV-3
> Date: 09/26/2005 Time: 0015
>
> Event Type: Incident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N
> Damage: Unknown
>
> LOCATION
> City: BELL State: FL Country: US
>
> DESCRIPTION
> ACFT LOCATED IN THE WOODS, CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, BELL, FL
>
> INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0
> #
> Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: 1
> #
> Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> #
> Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
>
> WEATHER: METAR KGNV 260053Z 09003KT 10SM CLR 24/21 A3005
>
> OTHER DATA
>
> Departed: Dep Date: Dep. Time:
> Destination: Flt Plan: Wx
> Briefing:
> Last Radio Cont:
> Last Clearance:
>
> FAA FSDO: ORLANDO, FL (SO15) Entry date: 09/26/2005
>
>
>>
>>Anyone know any particulars about the loss near Bell, FL this weekend?
>>
>>Specifically, was Finn injured in the crash?
>>
>>I cannot find any news reports on it. Not even an entry in the weekend
>>log on the Gilchrist County sheriff's log.
>>
>>JT
>>
>>
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finn Lassen N#993FL |
I'm fine. Just 11 stitches on inside left leg and bunch of minor cuts
and bruises.
Plane is totaled.
Approach into dark field at night. Controlled flight into trees.
Van has designed heck of an airplane! My hat's off to him!
Don't expect any claims. No property damage (except for the plane - no
hull so no claim).
Actually crashed onto my own lot.
Finn
J.T. Helms wrote:
>
>Anyone know any particulars about the loss near Bell, FL this weekend?
>
>Specifically, was Finn injured in the crash?
>
>I cannot find any news reports on it. Not even an entry in the weekend log
>on the Gilchrist County sheriff's log.
>
>JT
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.2
I just got my unit in this afternoon. I have a pix of the servo mounted and attatched
to the top side of the elv bell crank, sort of a guess as to the spot to
drill the bell crank for attatching the contr arm. as well as best way to fabricate
the mounting plate. I am probably one of the first group to get one, but
I would think tru trac setup would be about the same. I would apreciate any
advice and hopefully some detailed pix of working settups. Pls reply to my email.
Tnx Charlie heathco cheathco(at)gvtc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Ciolino" <jbc2000(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Project Insurance |
I just paid Nationair $699 for AIG comprehensive and liability. They charge
$119 for liability in case it rolls out of my garage, down the street and
kills someone.
John Ciolino
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Project Insurance
>
>
> All,
> Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
> per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
> concerned it is just a pile of junk.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Evenson" <revenson(at)comcast.net> |
Charles Wilhite, maker of carbon fiber canopies and baggage doors for RVs, has
lost all his email folders. So anyone talking with him should send an email to
him at:
c.wilhite(at)att.net.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking for RV-4 prop |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
Fellow Listers:
A friend is looking for a replacement prop (used) for his 150 hp RV-4. He
would consider a wood or Sensenich prop. Contact me if you might know of
one.
Thanks
Doug Weiler
Pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Heads-Up Display... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Does anyone know where to buy a low cost Combiner and/or beamsplitter for creating
a DIY head up display? I am not an optics engineer
but I have read enough to realize you cant just use tinted glass... and I want
to make one.
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Garner <jgarner(at)dslextreme.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heads-Up Display... |
Matt Johnson wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where to buy a low cost Combiner and/or beamsplitter for creating
a DIY head up display? I am not an optics engineer
> but I have read enough to realize you cant just use tinted glass... and I want
to make one.
>
> - Matt
>
>
Check this thing on ebay. Uses an auto HUD with some external signal
processing....
Heads Up Display ASI Indicators for engine alarms & Lts
Item number: 4577695859
/Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | octane ratings of fuel |
To all you gearheads out there, I ran across some interesting reading on
octane ratings.
Here's the website if your interested...
http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/GArticles/octane.html
Thanks
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
FCC: mailbox://ptthqnyqst(at)yahoo.com/Sent
| From: | Isabella Norwood <ptthqnyqst(at)yahoo.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stewart, Michael \(ISS Atlanta\)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
http://www.mstewart.net/super8/electrical/trio
enjoy,
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles heathco
Subject: RV-List: Trio Alt Hold
I just got my unit in this afternoon. I have a pix of the servo mounted
and attatched to the top side of the elv bell crank, sort of a guess as
to the spot to drill the bell crank for attatching the contr arm. as
well as best way to fabricate the mounting plate. I am probably one of
the first group to get one, but I would think tru trac setup would be
about the same. I would apreciate any advice and hopefully some detailed
pix of working settups. Pls reply to my email. Tnx Charlie heathco
cheathco(at)gvtc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "czechsix(at)juno.com" <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Project Insurance--Go with AVEMCO |
I got the same quote from AIG ($699) and thought it was ridiculous having to pay
$119 for liability, which I don't need and didn't want, but they refused to
write the policy without including it. Methinks it's a gouging technique but I
digress... Anyway, I went with AVEMCO which surprisingly was cheaper....$583
if memory serves, without the pointless liability insurance. I think that was
for $70K coverage on my project.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D forever almost finished but never quite ready to fly...
From: "John Ciolino" <jbc2000(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Project Insurance
I just paid Nationair $699 for AIG comprehensive and liability. They charge
$119 for liability in case it rolls out of my garage, down the street and
kills someone.
John Ciolino
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Project Insurance
>
>
> All,
> Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
> per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
> concerned it is just a pile of junk.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
I got the same quote from AIG ($699) and thought it was ridiculous having to pay
$119 for liability, which I don't need and didn't want, but they refused to
write the policy without including it. Methinks it's a gouging technique but I
digress... Anyway, I went with AVEMCO which surprisingly was cheaper....$583
if memory serves, without the pointless liability insurance. I think that was
for $70K coverage on my project.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D forever almost finished but never quite ready to fly...
From: "John Ciolino" jbc2000(at)earthlink.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Project Insurance
-- RV-List message posted by: "John Ciolino" jbc2000(at)earthlink.net
I just paid Nationair $699 for AIG comprehensive and liability. They charge
$119 for liability in case it rolls out of my garage, down the street and
kills someone.
John Ciolino
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" bobperk(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: RV-List: Project Insurance
-- RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" bobperk(at)bellsouth.net
All,
Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
concerned it is just a pile of junk.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F-863 interference with F-872A root fairing |
| From: | "Puckett, Gregory [DENTK]" <Greg.Puckett(at)united.com> |
Mickey,
Just to follow up.
Van's informed me that removing the 3/8" from the top of the bracket would not
appreciably reduce the strength of the assembly. They advised that as long as
I can maintain the 1.5d edge distance for the AN3 bolts to the fuselage and only
have to remove 3/8" from the top of the bracket, I would be fine.
It appears from your pictures, you would have had to remove even more than 3/8.
It seems kind of strange in your case that you could not use the standard upper
fuselage bolt hole location that is in a prepunched position.
By the way, that's a fantastic idea for the aileron control stops! Sometimes procrastination
on my part pays off big:-)
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 040924215600851&query=control%2Bstop
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.T. Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Project Insurance--Go with AVEMCO |
I hope you understand that it isn't NationAir requiring the liability on
those policies but AIG. The EAA's program doesn't add liability coverage,
but is a little more expensive than AIG's builders risk coverage and
apparently AVEMCO's.
I don't have a problem at all with people insuring with AVEMCO for the
builder's risk. I just want you all to understand that AVEMCO's pricing on
flying RVs is higher right now, and their coverages are not as good. So,
please remember to check with an agent for in flight coverages when you get
it done.
Specifically, AVEMCO has limitations for the flyoff period, they have per
person limits (rather than the more beneficial per passenger limits like AIG
and EAA's program), and they have family sublimits which none of the other
companies have.
JT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: Project Insurance--Go with AVEMCO
I got the same quote from AIG ($699) and thought it was ridiculous having to
pay $119 for liability, which I don't need and didn't want, but they refused
to write the policy without including it. Methinks it's a gouging technique
but I digress... Anyway, I went with AVEMCO which surprisingly was
cheaper....$583 if memory serves, without the pointless liability insurance.
I think that was for $70K coverage on my project.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D forever almost finished but never quite ready to fly...
From: "John Ciolino" <jbc2000(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Project Insurance
I just paid Nationair $699 for AIG comprehensive and liability. They charge
$119 for liability in case it rolls out of my garage, down the street and
kills someone.
John Ciolino
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Project Insurance
>
>
> All,
> Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost
> me per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they
> are concerned it is just a pile of junk.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
I got the same quote from AIG ($699) and thought it was ridiculous having to
pay $119 for liability, which I don't need and didn't want, but they refused
to write the policy without including it. Methinks it's a gouging technique
but I digress... Anyway, I went with AVEMCO which surprisingly was
cheaper....$583 if memory serves, without the pointless liability insurance.
I think that was for $70K coverage on my project.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D forever almost finished but never quite ready to fly...
From: "John Ciolino" jbc2000(at)earthlink.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Project Insurance
-- RV-List message posted by: "John Ciolino" jbc2000(at)earthlink.net
I just paid Nationair $699 for AIG comprehensive and liability. They charge
$119 for liability in case it rolls out of my garage, down the street and
kills someone.
John Ciolino
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" bobperk(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: RV-List: Project Insurance
-- RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" bobperk(at)bellsouth.net
All,
Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
concerned it is just a pile of junk.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Alternate FAB box install pics |
Would any of you RVers have online pictures of the FAB installation
that I came up with years ago where you mount the "U" baffle material to
the tunnel on the lower cowl and the horizontal portion on the top of
the FAB box? A builder I'm helping is at that stage and a picture would
be better than trying to explain. I'm 2 1/2 hours away so can't just
run over and show him.
Also, he mentioned that some are recommending an alternate source of
air in case the K&N ices up. If you could point us to any pictures of
this kind of installation, that would be great. I wouldn't think icing
would be a problem for a VFR pilot but I guess it wouldn't hurt to add
an alternate source just in case.
Thanks, Bob Skinner
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | anodizing engine baffles |
I am just starting on my engine baffles. I saw another builder's plane
which had the baffles blue anodized and it looks good. However,
anodizing hardens the surface and might make it more prone to crack.
I'm just guessing here.
Does any one have any experience with this? Are there planes with
hundreds of hours on them with anodized baffled that haven't cracked?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | anodizing engine baffles |
>
> I am just starting on my engine baffles. I saw another
> builder's plane which had the baffles blue anodized and it
> looks good. However,
> anodizing hardens the surface and might make it more prone to
> crack.
> I'm just guessing here.
>
> Does any one have any experience with this? Are there planes
> with hundreds of hours on them with anodized baffled that
> haven't cracked?
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
Tom, anodizing removes about half the fatigue life on aluminum. Hard to
tell what an individual's experience will be on the baffles, lots of other
variables.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 667 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finn Lassen N#993FL |
Finn,
Glad you're alive & well (except for the minor stuff). Sounds like there might
be a good story associated with this. I scared the heck out myself tryin' (and
succeeded) to get into Tallahassee Executive one DARK night a year or two
back, when the lights wouldn't come on. Thought for sure a tree would reach
up and grab my tail... but that's another story. Let's hear yours.
Chuck
Finn Lassen wrote:
I'm fine. Just 11 stitches on inside left leg and bunch of minor cuts
and bruises.
Plane is totaled.
Approach into dark field at night. Controlled flight into trees.
Van has designed heck of an airplane! My hat's off to him!
Don't expect any claims. No property damage (except for the plane - no
hull so no claim).
Actually crashed onto my own lot.
Finn
J.T. Helms wrote:
>
>Anyone know any particulars about the loss near Bell, FL this weekend?
>
>Specifically, was Finn injured in the crash?
>
>I cannot find any news reports on it. Not even an entry in the weekend log
>on the Gilchrist County sheriff's log.
>
>JT
>
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: anodizing engine baffles |
On 09/27 5:00, sarg314 wrote:
> I am just starting on my engine baffles. I saw another builder's plane
> which had the baffles blue anodized and it looks good. However,
> anodizing hardens the surface and might make it more prone to crack.
> I'm just guessing here.
>
> Does any one have any experience with this? Are there planes with
> hundreds of hours on them with anodized baffled that haven't cracked?
Sorry, no experience with anodizing but you could get the whole
lot powder coated as an option. More color and texture choices
than anodizing, I think..
I had my panel and rudder pedals powder coated and I'm really
happy with the results. Powder coating is very very durable
and can withstand the heat so no problem there. And there is
no issue with the heat treatment of the aluminum when pc aluminum
since the oven is less than 500 degrees if I remember correctly.
I would also bet that there are more facilities that do pc
than anodizing in most metro areas.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Slobovia Outernational Pulled Pork Extravaganza |
Party Time!!
The "Lower Slobovia Garden Club" will be serving BBQ pulled pork to any
flyers/drivers within range at Noon on October 22. Plan your flight to
MS71, Slobovia Outernational Airport, just north of Jackson MS (Memphis
Sectional). Jackson approach is 125.25 for vectors, if needed, & our
field freq is 122.75. Plan to land to the south, wind permitting (4800
ft of grass) & taxi to the south end of the field. Bedrooms, couches &
floor space available if anyone needs to overnight with us. For more
info or driving directions, email me or call me at 601.879.9596.
Come on down!
Charlie England
flying RV-4, -7 in the oven
Slobovia Outernational (MS71)
601.879.9596
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV8QB flap attachment |
HI all,
I'm just about ready to install my flaps on the wings. With the aileron in
its neutral position, it seems that when I line the trailing edges of the
flap and aileron, (yes I will need the wider -4 hinge), the upper flap skin
hits the aft wing spar. Has anyone run into this problem before, do I need
to tighten the radius of the curve that slides under the upper wing skin?
Thank you
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate FAB box install pics |
Van's will supply you a kit on FAB airbox to resolve ice blockage problems.
The modification is a small trap door on the bottom of the FAB which
bypasses the K&N filter which was shown in an issue of the RVator few years
ago. However, Van's Service Bulletin is on Van's website under Letters,
Service Bulletins, and Revisions with a date of May 2003. It does not have
an illustration but does say to call Van's and ask for a FAB modification
kit which is (or at least was in 2003) free.
Dick DeCramer
N500DD RV6
87 hours...Keep riveting because you can't believe how good RV's fly and it
gets better each flight too!!!
> [Original Message]
> From: rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net>
> To:
> Date: 9/27/2005 6:13:12 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Alternate FAB box install pics
>
>
> Would any of you RVers have online pictures of the FAB installation
> that I came up with years ago where you mount the "U" baffle material to
> the tunnel on the lower cowl and the horizontal portion on the top of
> the FAB box? A builder I'm helping is at that stage and a picture would
> be better than trying to explain. I'm 2 1/2 hours away so can't just
> run over and show him.
>
> Also, he mentioned that some are recommending an alternate source of
> air in case the K&N ices up. If you could point us to any pictures of
> this kind of installation, that would be great. I wouldn't think icing
> would be a problem for a VFR pilot but I guess it wouldn't hurt to add
> an alternate source just in case.
>
> Thanks, Bob Skinner
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Alternate FAB box install pics |
Hey Bob,
Try this:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5296
I've been looking at it lately and he credits you. Van's has an
alternate air flap setup that they'll supply free. Give them a call.
Pax
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv6fly
Subject: RV-List: Alternate FAB box install pics
Would any of you RVers have online pictures of the FAB installation
that I came up with years ago where you mount the "U" baffle material to
the tunnel on the lower cowl and the horizontal portion on the top of
the FAB box? A builder I'm helping is at that stage and a picture would
be better than trying to explain. I'm 2 1/2 hours away so can't just
run over and show him.
Also, he mentioned that some are recommending an alternate source of
air in case the K&N ices up. If you could point us to any pictures of
this kind of installation, that would be great. I wouldn't think icing
would be a problem for a VFR pilot but I guess it wouldn't hurt to add
an alternate source just in case.
Thanks, Bob Skinner
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: anodizing engine baffles |
In a message dated 9/27/2005 5:04:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
sarg314(at)comcast.net writes:
I am just starting on my engine baffles. I saw another builder's plane
which had the baffles blue anodized and it looks good. However,
anodizing hardens the surface and might make it more prone to crack.
I'm just guessing here.
Does any one have any experience with this? Are there planes with
hundreds of hours on them with anodized baffled that haven't cracked?
===========================
Yes. Mine are gold anodized per MIL-A-8625 Type II, Class 2. IMO, the
cracking concern touted for anodizing is highly exaggerated. My wing spars are
also anodized as are all the Phlogiston spars that Van's ships. They are a
thing of beauty and I guarantee you that those spars will outlive us all.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 765hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | RV8QB flap attachment |
I had the problem with my RV6. I bought a tube of Prussian Blue from NAPA
and spread it on the flap to determine where the curved portion of the flap
skin actually hit. The forward bent portion of the skin had to be reformed
so the flap could be moved up more. I ended up bending with my seamers the
inboard 12" to 16" of the flap skin into fairly tight radius where it had
run into something on the rear spar. I also had the bottom skin of the
flap hang up on the bottom of the fuselage preventing the flap from
assuming a fully retracted, in trail position. This required careful
trimming of the inboard trailing edge of the flap to allow it to travel up
the side of the fuselage into the in trail position while leaving enough of
the bottom forward inboard skin to cover the hole cut in the fuselage for
the flap push rod when the flap is retracted. I also joggled the inboard
4" or so of the remaining bottom lower flap skin to get more flap movement
in the up direction. This entire process took some careful thought and
cautious trimming as the flaps would first bottom on the top curl of the
top flap skin and the rear spar then, alternately, the bottom skin would
hang up on the fuselage meaning I had to work two problems at once.
Eventually, I got the flaps bent and trimmed correctly. Hope this helps.
Dick DeCramer
N500DD RV6 slide
87 hours to date
> [Original Message]
> From: Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com>
> To:
> Date: 9/27/2005 10:01:54 PM
> Subject: RV-List: RV8QB flap attachment
>
>
> HI all,
>
> I'm just about ready to install my flaps on the wings. With the aileron
in
> its neutral position, it seems that when I line the trailing edges of the
> flap and aileron, (yes I will need the wider -4 hinge), the upper flap
skin
> hits the aft wing spar. Has anyone run into this problem before, do I
need
> to tighten the radius of the curve that slides under the upper wing skin?
>
> Thank you
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finn Lassen N#993FL |
Maybe some day. Suffice to say I'd successfully landed there at night
before but with the moon in a completely clear sky and with field next
to runway more clearly contrasting the runway.
Finn
Chuck wrote:
>
>Finn,
>
>Glad you're alive & well (except for the minor stuff). Sounds like there might
be a good story associated with this. I scared the heck out myself tryin'
(and succeeded) to get into Tallahassee Executive one DARK night a year or two
back, when the lights wouldn't come on. Thought for sure a tree would reach
up and grab my tail... but that's another story. Let's hear yours.
>
>Chuck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canopy Crack Fix |
| From: | "John Erickson" <Droopy(at)ericksonjc.com> |
Ok, the question I hoped I'd never have to ask... And no, this isn't a
"my canopy cracked while I was drilling it" question... Almost...
There I was... Beautiful Nevada day (hot as hades) descending at about
200kts to beat a Baron into North Las Vegas. Soft muffled pop sounds and
a little extra wind noise... Can't see anything and the rest of the
arrival/landing are uneventful. Post-flight I find a crack in the canopy
of my RV-8 on the right side about 18 inches forward of the back end of
it. Crack goes from the skirt up about 3/4's of the way to the top of
the canopy (straight up). I'm thinking of trying to fix it by wicking
some Weld-On #3 into it and stop drilling the end. (I know it won't be
pretty, but it is WAY outta the line of sight unless some F-16 is
gunning me, and I don't really have the time yet to fit a new canopy.
(Hopefully can do that next year...))
Questions are...
Am I out to lunch thinking I may be able to fix this without making a
new canopy (at least temporarily)?
Would you try to stop-drill this or just wick in the Weld-On (ie am I
going to cause even more stress areas by stopdrilling)?
What size and type of drill to use?
Thanks,
John
RV-10 #40208
Flying RV-8 (Bought not built...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Urgent Bunny Page Safety Update Request |
Hello,
I am sending this email to you as the email link on the bunny list is not
correct.
In the section on 'spars and ribs', under 'Wings', is a list of items to
purchase with a recommendation from me to buy a cheap $12.00 flaring tool. I
have sent a lot of email to the RV list (including this one) correcting this
statement as it is not only wrong (I tossed the cheap one and bought the
Avery one), but if followed dangerous! Dangerous in that builders might
possibly miss the fact that an automotive 45degree flaring tool is not
correct for the aircraft fuel line fittings. This is pointed out in the
plans too.
I had sent an email a year or so ago requesting this change to the bunny
pages and you (Matt Draille) corrected it immediately. So I was extremely
surprised and distressed to see that somehow the old uncorrected reference
returned.
Please either correct statement #11 to say; "I wound up ordering the
official flaring tool from Avery as the cheap one was neither suitable nor
safe" or remove my name from the bunny list.
As the bunny list now stands, I am recommending that people hook up their
fuel lines with a cheap unsafe (45degree) tool.
Needless to say I am extremely worried about this as over a thousand people
have visited this page.
Please reply when the change has been made.
Thanks!
Vince Himsl
RV8 - Finish
Moscow, ID. USA
Below is taken from Bunny's Guide..
A Bunny with Wings
Part 1: Spars and Rib Preparation
Last Updated: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 17:16:44
Visitors=
_____
Part 2: A Bunny with Wings
The big day dawned; my wing kit arrived. Two big boxes, (14' 4" x 10" x 8",
255lbs and 96" x 31" x 10", 260lbs) each needing two blokes to lift.
<http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/photos/2a/01.jpg> Wing kit
arrives
I'd decided beforehand to do the ailerons first, since they're more or less
the same construction technique as the empennage control surfaces. I'll
leave the spars, etc until later; ie until I've got some courage together!
:-) This also delays the day when I need to move my workshop out of my spare
room and into the garage (hopefully until after winter!).
Van's manual for wing building is not as good as for the empennage; I'd say
that Frank Justice's manual is a must-have. Generally, I refer to this
manual as FJ. However, since it was all written for non-prepunched, some
doesn't apply. Even more useful is Will Cretsinger's notes... I refer to
these as WC.
RV-List message posted by: Vince Himsl : Below are some
'extras' that I have bought while working on the wings.
1. Special #30 X 1/2 CounterSink Bit from Avery for the gas tank bolt
attach points on the spar. Check their catalogue first but I think this is
the correct description.
2. The tube type fluorescent light and telescoping mirror for looking
inside the leading edge (often).
3. An offset 470AD4 rivet gun head with one side flattened for the leading
edge ribs to spar attachment. I had an offset and flattened it on one side.
4. A hole saw or knock out punch @ 14mm to make a hole in each rib for the
plastic conduit from Van's. Makes the hole just big enough to allow you to
pull the conduit through and then hold it in place when you let it go.
5. Some sort of jack arrangement to keep centre of spar/rib assembly from
sagging prior to installation of skins. I used the 1/4" bolts and blocks
from the empennage inserted into each end of a wooden dowel (closet size,
@1.5"). cost= $0.00
6. #6 and #8 dimple dies if you don't already have them. I also bought the
#6 and #8 Counter Sink Bits. Used for access plates, gas tanks.
7. A rivet shaver for the 'crappy' gas tank rivet job. Don't ask me how I
know (:>))
8. An inch-lb torque wrench. Used for tie down assembly and aileron
control, empennage, etc.
9. #D, #19, #21(I think) drill bitts. Used on tanks, access plates.
10. I bought some NAS1097(?) 'ooops' rivets from Vans. I used them for
426AD3 spar holes that I had countersunk too deep.
11. A flaring tool for the vent, gas, and pitot line (cheap one will
do...@$12.00 US).
12. Angles, brackets, etc for modifying the empennage jig to hold the wing.
13. rose coloured glasses...self explanatory. (:>))
14. Paint booth/area. Mine is 4 x 6 x 7 feet made with 1x2 framing and
cheap plastic($4.00 from Wal-Mart0.
For the tanks:
A wire brush bit for your cordless drill. (to sc....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: anodizing engine baffles |
yes, never the less, when Van's started looking into anodizing the
spars, the spars did have a reduced fatigue life.
so rather than outliving us by two lives the now outlive us by one life ;-)
pretty much any time you introduce a hard surface on a flexible material
you decrease the fatigue life because the hard material will form the
initial cracks which will eventually propagate.
>
>===========================
>
>Yes. Mine are gold anodized per MIL-A-8625 Type II, Class 2. IMO, the
>cracking concern touted for anodizing is highly exaggerated. My wing spars are
>also anodized as are all the Phlogiston spars that Van's ships. They are a
>thing of beauty and I guarantee you that those spars will outlive us all.
>
>GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 765hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: anodizing engine baffles |
You are correct. As best I recall, the article in RvAtor indicated that the
reduced life of the spar limited it to approx 25,000 hours of flight and
that included a very heavy percentage of acrobat stress hours. I could only
hope to live and fly long enough for a spar to fail due to Anodizing {:>)
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "gert" <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: anodizing engine baffles
>
> yes, never the less, when Van's started looking into anodizing the
> spars, the spars did have a reduced fatigue life.
> so rather than outliving us by two lives the now outlive us by one life
> ;-)
>
> pretty much any time you introduce a hard surface on a flexible material
> you decrease the fatigue life because the hard material will form the
> initial cracks which will eventually propagate.
>
>
>>
>>===========================
>>
>>Yes. Mine are gold anodized per MIL-A-8625 Type II, Class 2. IMO, the
>>cracking concern touted for anodizing is highly exaggerated. My wing
>>spars are
>>also anodized as are all the Phlogiston spars that Van's ships. They are
>>a
>>thing of beauty and I guarantee you that those spars will outlive us all.
>>
>>GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 765hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8QB flap attachment |
I had a similar experience to that of Dick's. Worse, on the same side I was
having the problem, in the down position part of that upper flap skin was
able to work up around the wing skin - but I didn't see it. Then when I
raised the flap with the motor it tweaked both the flap skin and the wing
skin. It has never been quite right since. I ended up using some safety wire
to "stitch" the upper flap skin in the proper place to prevent it from
hitting the rear spar or popping out above the wing skin (in the down
position).
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
On 9/27/05, Dick DeCramer wrote:
>
>
> I had the problem with my RV6. I bought a tube of Prussian Blue from NAPA
> and spread it on the flap to determine where the curved portion of the
> flap
> skin actually hit. The forward bent portion of the skin had to be reformed
> so the flap could be moved up more. I ended up bending with my seamers the
> inboard 12" to 16" of the flap skin into fairly tight radius where it had
> run into something on the rear spar. I also had the bottom skin of the
> flap hang up on the bottom of the fuselage preventing the flap from
> assuming a fully retracted, in trail position. This required careful
> trimming of the inboard trailing edge of the flap to allow it to travel up
> the side of the fuselage into the in trail position while leaving enough
> of
> the bottom forward inboard skin to cover the hole cut in the fuselage for
> the flap push rod when the flap is retracted. I also joggled the inboard
> 4" or so of the remaining bottom lower flap skin to get more flap movement
> in the up direction. This entire process took some careful thought and
> cautious trimming as the flaps would first bottom on the top curl of the
> top flap skin and the rear spar then, alternately, the bottom skin would
> hang up on the fuselage meaning I had to work two problems at once.
> Eventually, I got the flaps bent and trimmed correctly. Hope this helps.
>
> Dick DeCramer
> N500DD RV6 slide
> 87 hours to date
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com>
> > To:
> > Date: 9/27/2005 10:01:54 PM
> > Subject: RV-List: RV8QB flap attachment
> >
> >
> > HI all,
> >
> > I'm just about ready to install my flaps on the wings. With the aileron
> in
> > its neutral position, it seems that when I line the trailing edges of
> the
> > flap and aileron, (yes I will need the wider -4 hinge), the upper flap
> skin
> > hits the aft wing spar. Has anyone run into this problem before, do I
> need
> > to tighten the radius of the curve that slides under the upper wing
> skin?
> >
> > Thank you
> > Paul
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
Hello All,
AirCrafters LLC is looking for help! We need builders experienced with
avionics, airframe construction, powerplant installation, maintenance, and
repair. We work on all types of experimental aircraft from ultralights to
turboprops. We're located at Watsonville Airport (WVI) near Monterey,
California. Starting wages are $20-$25/hr. If you love building airplanes,
please email a cover letter and resume to jobs(at)AirCraftersLLC.com. Please
see www.AirCraftersLLC.com for more information.
Thanks,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
831-722-9141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: anodizing engine baffles |
I'll do some looking, but IIRC the fatigue life of the annodized spar
was more like 8-9,000 hours. Still a lot, but not unattainable.
Jeff Point
>You are correct. As best I recall, the article in RvAtor indicated that the
>reduced life of the spar limited it to approx 25,000 hours of flight
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: anodizing engine baffles |
On 21:55:01 2005-09-27 Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> Yes. Mine are gold anodized per MIL-A-8625 Type II, Class 2. IMO,
> the cracking concern touted for anodizing is highly exaggerated. My
> wing spars are also anodized as are all the Phlogiston spars that
> Van's ships. They are a thing of beauty and I guarantee you that
> those spars will outlive us all.
Van's (and Phlogiston's) spars are ALODYNED, not ANODIZED.
Alodyning is a chromic acid conversion process that leaves a corrosion
resistant film on aluminum surfaces. I am not familiar enough with the
process to know what effect it has on fatigue life, but if Vans is putting
it on my spars, i'm confident it won't hurt me.
Anodizing is a hard coating applied to aluminum surfaces to protect the
finish from wear, corrosion, etc. It could significantly affect the
fatigue life of the part, as it makes a much harder surface on the shell of
the unit. If flexed (like a wing spar), that hard surface could crack due
to it's hardness, leading to any number of corrosion or fatigue problems.
For baffles in the engine compartment though, I suspect you would easily be
able to detect problems before they became serious. Just make inspecting
for cracks part of your regular 100-hour or Annual inspection. As they
say, "it's not structural".
-Rob Prior
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pricing |
Can anyone explain aviation fuel pricing? It is now $4.91 at my airport
KLWB (Lewisburg WV), before Katrina it was at $3.55. Airport manager
bumped the fuel price up because he was worried if he left the price at
$3.55 everyone on the east coast would in his words tanker out the fuel and
leave the airport without any!
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: anodizing engine baffles |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
On 9/28/05 10:20 AM, "Rob Prior (rv7)" wrote:
>
> On 21:55:01 2005-09-27 Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>> Yes. Mine are gold anodized per MIL-A-8625 Type II, Class 2. IMO,
>> the cracking concern touted for anodizing is highly exaggerated. My
>> wing spars are also anodized as are all the Phlogiston spars that
>> Van's ships. They are a thing of beauty and I guarantee you that
>> those spars will outlive us all.
>
> Van's (and Phlogiston's) spars are ALODYNED, not ANODIZED.
>
Well, not according to Van's. This is from the website at URL
http://vansaircraft.com/public/kit-std.htm
"Complete, gold anodized main spars are standard on the RV-3, RV-7/7A,
RV-8/8A and RV-9A. A gold anodized fuselage center section bulkhead,
precision matched to the main spars, is standard on those kits as well. RV-4
and RV-6/6A spars are a pre-drilled kit and require assembly, but complete
anodized spars are available as an option."
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | anodizing engine baffles |
Rob,
I think you're mistaken about the spars not being anodized. Here's a
quote from Van's website:
Complete, gold anodized main spars are standard on the RV-3, RV-7/7A,
RV-8/8A and RV-9A. A gold anodized fuselage center section bulkhead,
precision matched to the main spars, is standard on those kits as well.
RV-4 and RV-6/6A spars are a pre-drilled kit and require assembly, but
complete anodized spars are available as an option.
You can see it for yourself at:
https://www.vansaircraft.com/public/kit-std.htm
under wing kits.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Prior (rv7)
Subject: Re: RV-List: anodizing engine baffles
On 21:55:01 2005-09-27 Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> Yes. Mine are gold anodized per MIL-A-8625 Type II, Class 2. IMO,
> the cracking concern touted for anodizing is highly exaggerated. My
> wing spars are also anodized as are all the Phlogiston spars that
> Van's ships. They are a thing of beauty and I guarantee you that
> those spars will outlive us all.
Van's (and Phlogiston's) spars are ALODYNED, not ANODIZED.
Alodyning is a chromic acid conversion process that leaves a corrosion
resistant film on aluminum surfaces. I am not familiar enough with the
process to know what effect it has on fatigue life, but if Vans is
putting
it on my spars, i'm confident it won't hurt me.
Anodizing is a hard coating applied to aluminum surfaces to protect the
finish from wear, corrosion, etc. It could significantly affect the
fatigue life of the part, as it makes a much harder surface on the shell
of
the unit. If flexed (like a wing spar), that hard surface could crack
due
to it's hardness, leading to any number of corrosion or fatigue
problems.
For baffles in the engine compartment though, I suspect you would easily
be
able to detect problems before they became serious. Just make
inspecting
for cracks part of your regular 100-hour or Annual inspection. As they
say, "it's not structural".
-Rob Prior
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MStudio828(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Builders tools for sale |
Having completed building my RV, these tools necessary for building any RV
are for sale at a great savings. The tools were bought new from Cleveland tools,
Avery Tools and Spruce Aircraft for over $1100.00. Will sell for $750. plus
shipping. You can e-mail me at MStudio828(at)aol.com or call 602-252-0208 or
602-276-1630.
ROLO-FLAIR TUBE FLAIRING TOOL
CLEAVLAND DEEP THROAT HAND RIV\ETING & DIMPLING TOOL
DIMPLE DIE 1/8" RIVET
DIMPLE DIE #8 SCREW
DIMPLE DIE #6 SCREW
CUPPED SQUEEZER 1/8" AN-470
CUPPED SQUEEZER 3/16" AN-470
FLUSH SQUEEZER 1/2" DIA
FLUTING PLIERS
HAND SEAMER 3 1/2" JAW
BUCKING BAR
BUCKING BAR
BUCKING BAR
COMPACT AIR DRILL
RIGHT ANGLE DRILL ATTACHMENT
MINIATURE CHUCK FOR RIGHT ANGLE DRILL ( ABOVE)
DRILL BITS FOR ABOVE 9 EA
DRILL BITS (NEW) #30 6ea
DRILL BITS (NEW) #40 6ea
DRILL STOP SET
MICRO-STOP COUNTERSINK CAGE
STOP COUNTERSINK CUTTER 6EA #10-30
DEBURRING TOOL
DEBURRING BIT
CLECOS #40 350 ea
CLECOS #30 170 ea
CLECOS #20 18 ea
CLECOS #10 24ea
CLECO PLIERS
SIDE GRIP CLECO CLAMPS 1/2" & 1" REACH 14ea
6" DIAL CALIPERS
PRECISION DRILL GAUGES
AN BOLT GAUGE
SAFETY WIRE TWISTERS
INSTRUMENT GAUGE HOLE TEMPLATE
Larry Mcconnell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MStudio828(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Annual & Maintanence Tools for Sale |
These tools necessary for maintanence and annuals are for sale. Items were
bought new for over $280. and used once. Will sell for $200. Plus shipping.You
can e-mail me at MStudio828(at)aol.com or call 602-252-0208 or 602-276-1630.
DIFFERENTIAL COMPRESSION PRESSURE TESTER #E2A
INDUCTION DUAL MAGNETO SYNCHRONIZER
OIL FILTER CUTTER
SPARK PLUG CLEANER
SPARK PLUG GAPPING TOOL
AVIATION SPARK PLUG SOCKET
AVIATION SPARK PLUG GAP GAUGE
BRAKE LINING RIVET TOOL
Larry Mcconnell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: anodizing engine baffles |
This is not correct. They are anodized.
Jeff
>
>Van's (and Phlogiston's) spars are ALODYNED, not ANODIZED.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: anodizing engine baffles |
OK, I found it. It is an article titled "Tired Wings? Anodized Spars
and Fatigue Strength," on page 25 of 18 Years of the RVator. The
fatigue life of the anodized Phlogiston spar was calculated at 12,000
hours, which was half the life of a primered spar.
Jeff Point
Jeff Point wrote:
>
>I'll do some looking, but IIRC the fatigue life of the annodized spar
>was more like 8-9,000 hours. Still a lot, but not unattainable.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <erichweaver(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | engine import fees? |
Greetings
I am about ready to order an engine for my RV-7A project, but still havent decided
between Aerosport Power, Mattituck or Superior. Seems like any of these will
pretty much build whatever you want, no?
Anyway, I checked the archives, but am still not clear on whether there is any
signficant disadvantage associated with Aerosport being located in Canada. I
am in California, if that makes any difference. I know the tax man will cometh
eventually, but will I have signficant import charges or anything else to worry
about that I wont have with Superior or Mattituck?
thanks. Feel free to chime in with additional opinions/experiences on these companies
as you wish
regards
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
Sounds like a really poor rationalization for price gouging.
Greg Young
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Bob
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
Can anyone explain aviation fuel pricing? It is now $4.91 at my airport
KLWB (Lewisburg WV), before Katrina it was at $3.55. Airport manager
bumped the fuel price up because he was worried if he left the price at
$3.55 everyone on the east coast would in his words tanker out the fuel and
leave the airport without any!
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pricing |
I'd be surprised if raising it that much at once would be legal. Considering what
he said and when he said it, it comes across to me as a thinly veiled price
gouge cover up.
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> Can anyone explain aviation fuel pricing? It is now $4.91 at my airport
> KLWB (Lewisburg WV), before Katrina it was at $3.55. Airport manager
> bumped the fuel price up because he was worried if he left the price at
> $3.55 everyone on the east coast would in his words tanker out the fuel and
> leave the airport without any!
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
>
>
>
>
I'd be surprised ifraising it that much at once would belegal. Considering what
he said and when he said it, it comes across to me as a thinly veiled price gouge
cover up.
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Bob
Can anyone explain aviation fuel pricing? It is now $4.91 at my airport
KLWB (Lewisburg WV), before Katrina it was at $3.55. Airport manager
bumped the fuel price up because he was worried if he left the price at
$3.55 everyone on the east coast would in his words tanker out the fuel and
leave the airport without any!
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
nd much much more:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8QB flap attachment |
Paul,
I had a similar problem. I also had to use the wider hinge to match up the aileron
and flap trailing edges. The longer hinge helped the top of flap to wing
spar/wing skin interference some, but not completely. I called Vans and was
told there is not much that can be done and that is the way it is supposed to
be. In an informal survey of 8's and 7's (they use the same wing and similar
flaps) in my area, I saw that most had little to no gap between the flap and top
wing skin. Note that Van's recommends UHMW tape in that location to deal with
the wing to flap rubbing. I ended up manually massaging the curve of the
flap front and the wing trailing edge wing top wing skin to minimize the rubbing.
Its still not perfect, but it is less noticeable.
Craig
RV8AQB Fuselage front baggage compartment
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pricing |
It sounds like I need to look at automotive fuel STC in my decision on which
engine to order.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
>
> Sounds like a really poor rationalization for price gouging.
>
> Greg Young
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Bob
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
>
>
> Can anyone explain aviation fuel pricing? It is now $4.91 at my airport
> KLWB (Lewisburg WV), before Katrina it was at $3.55. Airport manager
> bumped the fuel price up because he was worried if he left the price at
> $3.55 everyone on the east coast would in his words tanker out the fuel
> and
> leave the airport without any!
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Follow-up - BPE Engine Rebuild Seminar |
This past Saturday, in front of 27 fellow aviators and with the assistance
of Allen and Mike from Barrett Precision Engines
(http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com), I rebuilt my Lycoming O-320-D2J.
I purchased this engine almost two years ago and decided that it needed an
overhaul before flying. I tossed out the idea of an engine rebuild seminar
for our local EAA chapter members to Allen Barrett at BPE and he bit. I
wanted to be involved in the tear down and rebuild of the engine but didn't
feel comfortable doing it myself. Allen saw an opportunity to share his
wealth of knowledge and get some exposure out of the deal. It was a perfect
match.
On Friday, May 13th, my wife and I drove down to Tulsa, OK (from Kansas
City) and we took the engine apart with the assistance of their lead shop
tech Mike. It went very smoothly and only took a couple of hours. The
other shop people got a kick out of some farm boy from Kansas tearing an
engine apart. (Pictures at: http://n523rv.com/engine). We were generally
pleased with the condition of the engine, however, things took a bad turn
for the worse when the crank was rejected for pitting, the pistons had
cracks and the mags were shot. We moved forward with the overhaul and set a
date of September 24th for the seminar. I promoted the seminar in various
places, primarily among our local EAA chapters.
Saturday, September 24th arrived and it was a perfect day. Allen and Mike
arrived the night before with all the pieces of the engine and had it all
setup in EAA Chapter 91's hangar ready to go. We started the day at 8:00
with some coffee and donuts while Allen talked about the process we were
about to through. We also talked about how to purchase engine cores and
what to watch for. (The city decided that it would be a good day to repave
the only road leading to the airport, so we gave attendee's a little extra
time to arrive.)
About 9:00am we moved to the hangar area to start the build. All of the
parts had been previously checked and dimensioned, so it was merely a task
of assembling the parts. Since this was my engine, I worked with Mike to do
the assembly while Allen narrated and fielded questions. We broke for lunch
around 12:00 at which point we had the case halves on and the accessory had
just been bolted on. My wife served us a wonder lunch of lasagna, salad and
garlic bread. After lunch we went back out and finished assembling the
engine with completion coming around 5:15 or so. We stopped several times
throughout the day to let people come up and get a closer look at what we
had done. (Can't have 27 people standing around you at once.)
It's actually quite amazing that we ran into no major issues. Allen and
Mike brought every part and every tool we needed to assemble the engine.
Early in the day, they realized that we were missing a castle nut for the
oil pump housing. The plan was to continue with the build and they would
remove the accessory case from the engine when they got the engine back to
Tulsa and replace the nut. Just as we were finishing up installing the
accessory case, Mike pulled out the fittings for the oil cooler lines to
install and found the castle nut nicely sitting inside one of them!
Obviously be careful where nuts and bolts can fall. During lunch, Mike and
Allen pulled the accessory case off and installed the nut and safetied the
oil pump housing. The other small issue that came up at the very wend was
not having a push-rod the correct length to bring one of the rockers into
tolerance. I was no big deal as they installed one as soon as they got back
to Tulsa.
FINAL ANALYSIS:
The engine seminar was a great idea and it came together very well. All of
the participants were extremely appreciative of the opportunity. Mike,
Allen and the crew at BPE were fantastic to work with. I'm certainly glad
that I did not attempt the overhaul on my own, the engines are pretty basic
but there are a lot of things you need to know. I'll never again purchase a
used engine!
If you need an engine or an engine overhaul, give Allen a call... you won't
be sorry. (918-835-1089)
Thanks go out to my wife for making lunch and the members of EAA Chapter 91
for allowing us to use their beautiful hangar!
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wiring)
#90569
<http://www.n523rv.com/> http://www.n523rv.com
EAA Chapter 1329 President
EAA Chapter 868 Web Editor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Snow" <daniel.snow(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | First-Flight Insurance and Tech Counselors |
I called EAA insurance and asked about the requirement to have 3 inspections
by a Tech Counselor. The representative confirmed that it is required in
order to be covered on the first flight. I got the impression that it was a
requirement of the underwriters. However, I talked with an independent
broker specializing in homebuilts and this was the first he had heard of
that requirement. Is this a requirement imposed by EAA or only certain
underwriters? Have a lot of builders been able to get affordable
first-flight insurance without Tech Counselor involvement? I'm not opposed
to using a Tech Counselor if needed, but it could be unnecessary if the
builder is sufficiently competent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: anodizing engine baffles |
Well, colour me red.
I thought all the sheet metal parts coming in the quick-build kits were
alodyned, and armed with my knowledge of anodizing I assumed that nobody
would anodize a critical structural component. But if Van's says it's
okay, then I guess it's okay...
But still... I wonder if you can order a set of spars non-anodized?
-Rob (learning something new every day on the RV-List...)
On 10:10:26 2005-09-28 Larry Pardue wrote:
>
> On 9/28/05 10:20 AM, "Rob Prior (rv7)" wrote:
>
> >
> > On 21:55:01 2005-09-27 Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> >> Yes. Mine are gold anodized per MIL-A-8625 Type II, Class 2.
> >> IMO, the cracking concern touted for anodizing is highly
> >> exaggerated. My wing spars are also anodized as are all the
> >> Phlogiston spars that Van's ships. They are a thing of beauty
> >> and I guarantee you that those spars will outlive us all.
> >
> > Van's (and Phlogiston's) spars are ALODYNED, not ANODIZED.
> >
>
>
> Well, not according to Van's. This is from the website at URL
> http://vansaircraft.com/public/kit-std.htm
>
> "Complete, gold anodized main spars are standard on the RV-3, RV-7/7A,
> RV-8/8A and RV-9A. A gold anodized fuselage center section bulkhead,
> precision matched to the main spars, is standard on those kits as
> well. RV-4 and RV-6/6A spars are a pre-drilled kit and require
> assembly, but complete anodized spars are available as an option."
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://n5lp.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mauri Morin" <maurv8(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Annual & Maintanence Tools for Sale |
Larry,
If still available, mark sold. My zip code is 59860, tell me what the
shipping cost is and I'll send you a check.
Mauri Morin
----- Original Message -----
From: <MStudio828(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Annual & Maintanence Tools for Sale
>
> These tools necessary for maintanence and annuals are for sale. Items were
> bought new for over $280. and used once. Will sell for $200. Plus
> shipping.You
> can e-mail me at MStudio828(at)aol.com or call 602-252-0208 or 602-276-1630.
>
> DIFFERENTIAL COMPRESSION PRESSURE TESTER #E2A
> INDUCTION DUAL MAGNETO SYNCHRONIZER
> OIL FILTER CUTTER
> SPARK PLUG CLEANER
> SPARK PLUG GAPPING TOOL
> AVIATION SPARK PLUG SOCKET
> AVIATION SPARK PLUG GAP GAUGE
> BRAKE LINING RIVET TOOL
>
> Larry Mcconnell
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First-Flight Insurance and Tech Counselors |
Daniel,
You should look at it as an opportunity, not a requirement. The
inspections are free and no matter how competent you are, it never hurts
to have someone else look at your work.
I had a Tech Counselor look at my -6 when I was building, even though
I'm a Tech Counselor myself, and yes, he had some good suggestions that
I would have missed out on otherwise.
It's a great program and deserves the support of all builders.
Dave
Daniel Snow wrote:
>
>I called EAA insurance and asked about the requirement to have 3 inspections
>by a Tech Counselor. The representative confirmed that it is required in
>order to be covered on the first flight. I got the impression that it was a
>requirement of the underwriters. However, I talked with an independent
>broker specializing in homebuilts and this was the first he had heard of
>that requirement. Is this a requirement imposed by EAA or only certain
>underwriters? Have a lot of builders been able to get affordable
>first-flight insurance without Tech Counselor involvement? I'm not opposed
>to using a Tech Counselor if needed, but it could be unnecessary if the
>builder is sufficiently competent.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine import fees? |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
>
> Greetings
>
> I am about ready to order an engine for my RV-7A project, but still havent
> decided between Aerosport Power, Mattituck or Superior. Seems like any of
> these will pretty much build whatever you want, no?
>
> Anyway, I checked the archives, but am still not clear on whether there is any
> signficant disadvantage associated with Aerosport being located in Canada. I
> am in California, if that makes any difference. I know the tax man will cometh
> eventually, but will I have signficant import charges or anything else to
> worry about that I wont have with Superior or Mattituck?
>
> thanks. Feel free to chime in with additional opinions/experiences on these
> companies as you wish
>
> regards
>
> Erich Weaver
>
There are many great engine shops in the US, but I cannot recommend
Aerosport high enough just in terms of customer service. My Aerosport
engine was purchased in 1999 and finally put into service in spring of 2003
in my RV-4. Many of you know that Bart's engines are works of art and mine
runs like a sewing machine. However, if something does go wrong, he truly
stands behind his work. Case in point: after 230 hours my #1 cylinder
began to foul the bottom plug in just a manner of minutes. Oil was actually
pooling in the cylinder after shutdown. Although we have a local engine
shop that has a very good reputation, I called Bart to get his opinion. He
just said, pull it off, send it to him and he'd have it turned around in a
day. I was a little dubious, but I sent it to Kamloops via Fed Ex. It
arrived on a Friday afternoon. He had it finished and out the door on
Tuesday and I had it back on Thurs. It looked brand new.. Rehoned, new
piston, new rings, repainted... he even threw in 2 new pushrods and 2 gasket
and seal kits. He and Sue run one of the most customer-orientated
companies I have ever had the pleasure of dealing with. I guess I need to
build another RV so I can buy another engine from them!
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
Pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
Go to KBCB for $3.55 gasoline or others around that price.
That will help ensure that he does not run out of gas :)
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Project Insurance--Go with AVEMCO |
Just out of curiosity, why would you NOT want liability insurance for only
$119? I assume that would be liability for things like running over or
chopping folks up, passenger injuries, hitting another airplane on the
ground, etc. ?? Is it a coverage or limits issue, must be missing
something?
Thanks Bill S
7a Ark fuse / panel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: Project Insurance--Go with AVEMCO
I got the same quote from AIG ($699) and thought it was ridiculous having to
pay $119 for liability, which I don't need and didn't want, but they refused
to write the policy without including it. Methinks it's a gouging technique
but I digress... Anyway, I went with AVEMCO which surprisingly was
cheaper....$583 if memory serves, without the pointless liability insurance.
I think that was for $70K coverage on my project.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D forever almost finished but never quite ready to fly...
From: "John Ciolino" <jbc2000(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Project Insurance
I just paid Nationair $699 for AIG comprehensive and liability. They charge
$119 for liability in case it rolls out of my garage, down the street and
kills someone.
John Ciolino
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Project Insurance
>
>
> All,
> Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
> per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
> concerned it is just a pile of junk.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
I got the same quote from AIG ($699) and thought it was ridiculous having to
pay $119 for liability, which I don't need and didn't want, but they refused
to write the policy without including it. Methinks it's a gouging technique
but I digress... Anyway, I went with AVEMCO which surprisingly was
cheaper....$583 if memory serves, without the pointless liability insurance.
I think that was for $70K coverage on my project.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D forever almost finished but never quite ready to fly...
From: "John Ciolino" jbc2000(at)earthlink.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Project Insurance
-- RV-List message posted by: "John Ciolino" jbc2000(at)earthlink.net
I just paid Nationair $699 for AIG comprehensive and liability. They charge
$119 for liability in case it rolls out of my garage, down the street and
kills someone.
John Ciolino
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" bobperk(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: RV-List: Project Insurance
-- RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" bobperk(at)bellsouth.net
All,
Where can insurance be had to cover my project? How much will it cost me
per year?. Homeowners wont even talk to me about it, as far as they are
concerned it is just a pile of junk.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
The painful news is that we are trying to buy $3.55 / gallon gas. My
guess is the RV-Twin I no longer on the drawing board!
Robin Marks
RV-4 200 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
Go to KBCB for $3.55 gasoline or others around that price.
That will help ensure that he does not run out of gas :)
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pricing |
That's called percieved demand and supply.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
>
> Can anyone explain aviation fuel pricing? It is now $4.91 at my airport
> KLWB (Lewisburg WV), before Katrina it was at $3.55. Airport manager
> bumped the fuel price up because he was worried if he left the price at
> $3.55 everyone on the east coast would in his words tanker out the fuel
> and
> leave the airport without any!
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pricing |
Stormy and wife just trekked to Nashville, and found (relatively) cheap fuel on
AirNav before we left the house... $3.00/gal (incl. all taxes) at Jamestown,
TN (2A1). Guy says he figures he has enough for three weeks at that price.
At 2 in the afternoon, I was the second purchaser he'd had all day. I guess
the moral is Location, location, location.
We'll be home Sunday, and plan to stop there on the way to get some more 100LL,
if it's still cheaper than I can buy my hi-test mogas that I usually burn.
Bob, if you care to get in on a deal where you can get 100LL down my way at cost,
after buying a share in an above ground tank, e-mail me privately. Gil Perky
in Eagle Rock is planning just such a venture very soon.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: RAS <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
That's called percieved demand and supply.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
>
> Can anyone explain aviation fuel pricing? It is now $4.91 at my airport
> KLWB (Lewisburg WV), before Katrina it was at $3.55. Airport manager
> bumped the fuel price up because he was worried if he left the price at
> $3.55 everyone on the east coast would in his words tanker out the fuel
> and
> leave the airport without any!
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pricing |
Stormy and wife just trekked to Nashville, and found (relatively) cheap fuel on
AirNav before we left the house... $3.00/gal (incl. all taxes) at Jamestown,
TN (2A1). Guy says he figures he has enough for three weeks at that price.
At 2 in the afternoon, I was the second purchaser he'd had all day. I guess
the moral is Location, location, location.
We'll be home Sunday, and plan to stop there on the way to get some more 100LL,
if it's still cheaper than I can buy my hi-test mogas that I usually burn.
Bob, if you care to get in on a deal where you can get 100LL down my way at cost,
after buying a share in an above ground tank, e-mail me privately. Gil Perky
in Eagle Rock is planning just such a venture very soon.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: RAS <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
That's called percieved demand and supply.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
>
> Can anyone explain aviation fuel pricing? It is now $4.91 at my airport
> KLWB (Lewisburg WV), before Katrina it was at $3.55. Airport manager
> bumped the fuel price up because he was worried if he left the price at
> $3.55 everyone on the east coast would in his words tanker out the fuel
> and
> leave the airport without any!
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First-Flight Insurance and Tech Counselors |
Daniel, I was able to get first flight coverage without the tech
inspections. I live 50 miles away from the local EAA chapter, and I
wasn't that aware of the program. However, my next door hangar neighbor
had built 4 or 5 RVs himself, and helped on others, so I had an
excellent source of advise around. He was not an official EAA tech
counselor, but I would not consider building a plane without the advise
of someone with knowledge and experience to look at my work once in a
while (once a month worked well for me!).
John
Daniel Snow wrote:
>
>I called EAA insurance and asked about the requirement to have 3 inspections
>by a Tech Counselor. The representative confirmed that it is required in
>order to be covered on the first flight. I got the impression that it was a
>requirement of the underwriters. However, I talked with an independent
>broker specializing in homebuilts and this was the first he had heard of
>that requirement. Is this a requirement imposed by EAA or only certain
>underwriters? Have a lot of builders been able to get affordable
>first-flight insurance without Tech Counselor involvement? I'm not opposed
>to using a Tech Counselor if needed, but it could be unnecessary if the
>builder is sufficiently competent.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders tools for sale |
Larry, will you split up the tools. I'm interested in the right angle drill
attachment, chuck, bits, #30 and #40 clecos and the #30 and #40 bits, side
grip clecoes and possibly even the rolo-flair tool.
Let me know. I would like to see some pics if possible.
Bill Britton.
----- Original Message -----
From: <MStudio828(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Builders tools for sale
>
> Having completed building my RV, these tools necessary for building any RV
> are for sale at a great savings. The tools were bought new from Cleveland
tools,
> Avery Tools and Spruce Aircraft for over $1100.00. Will sell for $750.
plus
> shipping. You can e-mail me at MStudio828(at)aol.com or call 602-252-0208 or
> 602-276-1630.
>
> ROLO-FLAIR TUBE FLAIRING TOOL
> CLEAVLAND DEEP THROAT HAND RIV\ETING & DIMPLING TOOL
> DIMPLE DIE 1/8" RIVET
> DIMPLE DIE #8 SCREW
> DIMPLE DIE #6 SCREW
> CUPPED SQUEEZER 1/8" AN-470
> CUPPED SQUEEZER 3/16" AN-470
> FLUSH SQUEEZER 1/2" DIA
> FLUTING PLIERS
> HAND SEAMER 3 1/2" JAW
> BUCKING BAR
> BUCKING BAR
> BUCKING BAR
> COMPACT AIR DRILL
> RIGHT ANGLE DRILL ATTACHMENT
> MINIATURE CHUCK FOR RIGHT ANGLE DRILL ( ABOVE)
> DRILL BITS FOR ABOVE 9 EA
> DRILL BITS (NEW) #30 6ea
> DRILL BITS (NEW) #40 6ea
> DRILL STOP SET
> MICRO-STOP COUNTERSINK CAGE
> STOP COUNTERSINK CUTTER 6EA #10-30
> DEBURRING TOOL
> DEBURRING BIT
> CLECOS #40 350 ea
> CLECOS #30 170 ea
> CLECOS #20 18 ea
> CLECOS #10 24ea
> CLECO PLIERS
> SIDE GRIP CLECO CLAMPS 1/2" & 1" REACH 14ea
> 6" DIAL CALIPERS
> PRECISION DRILL GAUGES
> AN BOLT GAUGE
> SAFETY WIRE TWISTERS
> INSTRUMENT GAUGE HOLE TEMPLATE
>
> Larry Mcconnell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Frederick <f1boss(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 46 Msgs - 09/28/05 |
It makes sense to me. If you were in the business of selling gas and you had
5000 gallons that you paid the distributor $4.00 a gallon for and the
distributor told you he was going to charge you $5.00 a gallon for the next
truckload, what would you price the fuel in your tank at? If you wanted to
stay in business, you would price it at the highest price above replacement
cost that you were confident you could get for it. You might well reduce the
price to something between the replacement cost and the highest price you
thought you could get for reasons of goodwill, but you would have to be
willing to give up the return on your investment.
Wrong, and unethical, at least. Personally, I would use the same multiplier
I always use to cover overhead and make a reasonable profit. Remember, the
margins increase as the wholeale cost of the goods to be sold goes up. It's
possible to actually use a smaller multiplier as wholesale costs go up!
Business rule #1: If what I sell costs me $X, I have to charge X x 1.4 or so
to stay in business, depending on my overhead costs. Now, if my next load of
product costs more, my X x 1.4 also goes up! Ain't life grand!
This assumes that the product continues to be available, which in this case
it is.
Now, if Homey Depot decided to charge $100 per sheet of plywood (because
their NEXT batch will cost 'em more), I think most of us would go straight
to the DA. Thankfully, the Homey folks have ethics, and use them.
This unethical gouging FBO bum should be run out of town. Of course, this is
just my opinion!
Carry on!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | LOE 2005 Discount Fuel and FREE parking at Las Cruces (KLRU) |
| From: | "Lockamy, Jack L" <jack.lockamy(at)navy.mil> |
Adventure Aviation FBO at Las Cruces (KLRU) will be giving ALL RVers who stop by
a 20 cents per gallon discount off the posted fuel price during the weekend
of 14-16 OCT. They will also be giving FREE overnight 'paved ramp' parking/tiedowns
to all RVs attending the LOE 2005 Fly-In at nearby Santa Theresa Airport.
Want more? You can also get a discount on a Hertz Rental car from Adventure
Aviation for the weekend. Lots of nice hotels and restaurants near KLRU and Santa
Theresa Airport is only a few minutes drive by car or hop in the RV and get
there even faster :-).
Be sure to say "Thanks" to Doug and Jo at Adventure Aviation FBO. They are two
of the nicest people you will ever meet (IMHO).
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A Flying N174JL
www.jacklockamy.com <http://www.jacklockamy.com>
'Hope the LOE Fly-In organizers will move the fly-in back to KLRU next year, and
the next....'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: anodizing engine baffles |
On 0:17:33 2005-09-29 Jeff Point wrote:
> Yes. The RV-6 wing kit is still available at $4,710. You have to
> drill a bunch of holes, and set all the spar rivets yourself, but the
> spars are not anodized.
Hmm... Interesting, but unfortunately not much help for my -7. Unless I
want to build a "small wing" version of the -7. :) I guess i'll be going
with the anodized spars when I get to that point.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Web site change?? |
I've become accustomed to checking on the weather on the following web site
for a quick go/no go. Anyone know what happened to this web site? Have not
been able to get the decoded weather in the past few days, nor any other
goodies found here.
_http://www.rvproject.com/wx/_ (http://www.rvproject.com/wx/)
Hope it will be up again soon.
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pricing |
At 12:09 PM 9/29/05, you wrote:
>
>I take a pretty Libertarian view on issues like this. If you don't
>like his prices, go somewhere else. He's free to charge what he
>wants, and you're free to buy your fuel from someone else.
I agree I can fly 28 miles and get gas for $1.21 cheaper. I believe in the
free market concept if there is a free market. But, at LWB the airport has
the sole source fuel contract. No free market competition allowed.
I would like to support the local airport and in the past even though fuel
was $.25 gal higher, I would buy it at the home field. I would like to
think that the airport is not making a huge profit and maybe their latest
shipment of fuel is pricey. When I talked to the airport manager he told
me that he has priced the fuel competitively. I have no idea what that
means? LWB's fuel is the most expensive in the state and within a 100 mile
radius. However it is cheaper than a high of $6.00+ a gallon that is
reported by AirNav in other parts of the country.
After the airport raised the price to $4.91 they have received a new
shipment of fuel. It just might be that the current wholesale price is
close to $4.00/gal, which might be a wake up call for the rest of the
country. LWB claims they mark up their fuel $1.00/gal to meet their
overhead costs.
This is really not a free or fair market. The consumer does not know the
wholesale cost, nor the actual overhead costs and in some cases does not
have an option to shop elsewhere. If the County Airport was a for profit
business, then maximizing profits is the way to go, but I don't think that
a government entity's sole purpose should be to make a profit (nor should
they operate in the red).
FYI, LWB is a towered Class D airport. I have sat in the control tower for
over 4 hours on a sunny Sunday afternoon and have watched a total of 4
airplanes land or take off. None bought fuel.
A vision of things to come?
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Web site change?? |
PGLong(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I've become accustomed to checking on the weather on the following web site
>for a quick go/no go. Anyone know what happened to this web site? Have not
>been able to get the decoded weather in the past few days, nor any other
>goodies found here.
>
>
Dan runs this site from his home high speed Internet connection. If he
is out of town or busy at work/flying and a problem with the computer or
network connection comes up, it may take him some time to get around to
fixing it.
--
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
Mike,
I have a Superior XP-IO360, and they say 91 octane mogas is fine, and in
fact they encourage it. I plan to use at home airport for those $$$ burgers.
Cross country, where it could pay off better, mostly unavailable. Totally legal
to use mogas in experimental, btw, IINM...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
In a message dated 9/29/2005 12:03:24 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
--> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike"
It sounds like I need to look at automotive fuel STC in my decision on which
engine to order.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
List,
Back in the days dinosaurs walked the earth, I had some gas stations, and
here's the rationale the FBO *might* be using..... Typically, he would buy a
tanker load of 10,000 gal. to get the best price. Let's say he paid 2.50/gal,
or $25K. for the load in his tank. Being a good guy, he only marks it up to
$3.00/gal for retail. During the course of selling his tank out, the wholesale
price goes up to $3.00 gal. So next tanker will cost $30,000. Where does he
get the additional $5,000? He can borrow it, take it out of profits, or raise
price to cover replacement cost. What would you do?
Food for thought, thas' all...
BTW, current price at my and Van's home airport KUAO, is $3.29 for 100LL at
S. end Jet Center... Not for long, I bet...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville OR
In a message dated 9/29/2005 12:03:24 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob
>
> Can anyone explain aviation fuel pricing? It is now $4.91 at my airport
> KLWB (Lewisburg WV), before Katrina it was at $3.55. Airport manager
> bumped the fuel price up because he was worried if he left the price at
> $3.55 everyone on the east coast would in his words tanker out the fuel
> and
> leave the airport without any!
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: anodizing engine baffles |
Only if you prove you're going to pull 10G's... Sorry... Do not archive...
But still... I wonder if you can order a set of spars non-anodized?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Pricing |
List...
Here's another thing... A lot of us use _www.airnav.com_
(http://www.airnav.com) to check fuel pricing on cross-country flying. I try to keep track and
update pricing for them when wandering the country, but I see lots of places
that haven't had an update for 3-6 months, so would beg fellow aviators to
update fuel pricing as they go. This applies to locals too, especially as
current prices are all over the map. I promise to do my part at KUAO...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Sounds like a really poor rationalization for price gouging.
Greg Young
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Bob
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pricing
Can anyone explain aviation fuel pricing? It is now $4.91 at my airport
KLWB (Lewisburg WV), before Katrina it was at $3.55. Airport manager
bumped the fuel price up because he was worried if he left the price at
$3.55 everyone on the east coast would in his words tanker out the fuel and
leave the airport without any!
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Where to buy the honeycomb that is in our cowlings? |
A friend of mine is rebuilding his cowling from scratch on his Mustang II. He built
the first one from scratch and did a great job but wants to build another
one thats lighter. He has been looking over my cowls on my 6a and has asked me
to find out if you can buy just the honeycomb somewhere?
Dan DeNeal
N256GD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 9/29/2005 2:00:23 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
ronlee(at)pcisys.net writes:
>Then you get the local competition working together and then your really
>screwed.
That sounds like something that is illegal. Can't remember the term.
================================
It's called collusion.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 765hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Where to buy the honeycomb that is in our cowlings? |
In a message dated 9/29/2005 8:31:11 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com writes:
A friend of mine is rebuilding his cowling from scratch on his Mustang II.
He built the first one from scratch and did a great job but wants to build
another one thats lighter. He has been looking over my cowls on my 6a and has
asked me to find out if you can buy just the honeycomb somewhere?
=======================
Just a guess but I would try Hexcell.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 765hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Where to buy the honeycomb that is in our cowlings? |
In a message dated 9/29/2005 9:06:23 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
Vanremog(at)aol.com writes:
A friend of mine is rebuilding his cowling from scratch on his Mustang II.
He built the first one from scratch and did a great job but wants to build
another one thats lighter. He has been looking over my cowls on my 6a and
has
asked me to find out if you can buy just the honeycomb somewhere?
=======================
Just a guess but I would try Hexcell.
=========================
Sorry, I misspelled Hexcel. Here's the link
_http://www.hexcel.com/Products/Downloads/HexWeb+Honeycomb+Datasheets.htm_
(http://www.hexcel.com/Products/Downloads/HexWeb+Honeycomb+Datasheets.htm)
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 765hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Anodizining engine baffles |
Ok guys, ya got my interest sparked. I'm finishing up engine baffling but
have not yet riveted all the parts together. Will each piece have to be
anodized prior to riveting or can the riveted assemblies be anodized as a
unit? Are anodizing shops located in most large urban areas or would I have
to send the parts off to Timbuktu? I understand and concur with the reduced
fatigue life but would still like to see the engine compartment dressed up
with something other than dull aluminum. Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Tampa bay Florida area
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Anodizining engine baffles |
In a message dated 9/29/2005 9:59:24 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net writes:
I'm finishing up engine baffling but
have not yet riveted all the parts together. Will each piece have to be
anodized prior to riveting or can the riveted assemblies be anodized as a
unit? Are anodizing shops located in most large urban areas or would I have
to send the parts off to Timbuktu?
===========================
Anodizing shops are plentiful in industrialized areas and you must keep the
parts in a disassembled state to have them anodized. The MIL-A-8625 Type II
process uses sulfuric acid and all surfaces of the item must be fully exposed
during the plating process and rinsed, dyed, sealed afterwards. About half
of the final plated thickness occurs within the surface and about half is
additive, so there is a slight dimensional change.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 765hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to buy the honeycomb that is in our cowlings? |
One thing you might not be aware of, but these pre-preg sheets are shipped and
stored in cold storage to prevent the epoxy from starting the chemical reaction.
This straight from their website:
Prepregs are supplied to customers in roll form, to be stored frozen and defrosted
before use. When cured at elevated temperatures and under pressure, prepregs
form molded components that are extremely strong and stiff. A broad range
of formulated resins are used to impregnate the woven and unidirectional reinforcements.
This generally keeps it from being used by most homebuilders.
Huuummmm wonder if we really need all that stuff the wife keeps in the deep freeze???
Ed A
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Where to buy the honeycomb that is in our cowlings?
>
>
> In a message dated 9/29/2005 9:06:23 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> Vanremog(at)aol.com writes:
>
> A friend of mine is rebuilding his cowling from scratch on his Mustang II.
> He built the first one from scratch and did a great job but wants to build
> another one thats lighter. He has been looking over my cowls on my 6a and
> has
> asked me to find out if you can buy just the honeycomb somewhere?
>
>
>
>
> Just a guess but I would try Hexcell.
>
>
>
>
> Sorry, I misspelled Hexcel. Here's the link
>
> _http://www.hexcel.com/Products/Downloads/HexWeb+Honeycomb+Datasheets.htm_
> (http://www.hexcel.com/Products/Downloads/HexWeb+Honeycomb+Datasheets.htm)
>
>
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 765hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Two air compressors in tandem?? |
We're trying to get 12 SCFM for painting with Sharpe Finex gun. We have two 8
SCFM compressors. If we hook them together we 16 SCFM or at least 12.
Do we need any special arrangement? Is there such a thing as an air check valve
or is it needed?
hal
RV6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Parker <mdparker(at)sisna.com> |
In a free market, a seller has the right to sell product for whatever
price he wishes- the cost of raw materials has nothing to do with the
pricing model, but the amount of buyers willing to pay high prices
does.. If you dont like the price, take your business elsewhere- the
overpriced gas will not sell until prices drop. A quick glance at
California several years ago shows how well Governmental price caps work.
Having watched the energy market in detail for some time, all I can say
is get used to these prices- they are going up because world demand is
larger than supply of refined products. If you want to change the
scenario, dump your Lycosaurs and use engines designed to burn auto
fuels- lots more price competition (lower prices) and more supply.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two air compressors in tandem?? |
Or you could try what Sam did:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/paint1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Anodizining engine baffles |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Dean,
Is any reason to not use powder coating to make them look nice?
JIm Nelson
St. Petersburg
(RV9-A, wiring)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
>I have a Superior XP-IO360, and they say 91 octane mogas is fine, and in
>fact they encourage it. I plan to use at home airport for those $$$ burgers.
>Cross country, where it could pay off better, mostly unavailable. Totally
>legal
>to use mogas in experimental, btw, IINM...
>
>Jerry Cochran
Jerry
I too have an IO-360 that is rated for 91 octane and it is now fuel
injected (used have a carberator). I have not used auto fuel mainly due to
vapor lock and that is a real problem on hot or even warm days. I get a
lot of surging during taxi back after a few touch and goes. Boost pump on
helps somewhat but it still surges.
Does anyone with fuel injection run auto fuel, and what are the pitfalls to
consider or plan for?
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
Call AFP and order #22 nozzles. You currently have 28's (IO-360). Going to
the smaller nozzle size increases line pressure and lowers the boiling
point. Most injected RV's that I know of suffer from boiling in the
injector lines after landing and this should greatly reduce it.
As far as auto fuel goes. 100LL in one tank and auto fuel in the other.
Take off land with 100LL cruise 65% power or less with auto fuel. Dont
forget transition time with from one fuel to the other.......What would
that be, 8~10 minutes?
>
>
> >I have a Superior XP-IO360, and they say 91 octane mogas is fine, and in
> >fact they encourage it. I plan to use at home airport for those $$$ burgers.
> >Cross country, where it could pay off better, mostly unavailable. Totally
> >legal
> >to use mogas in experimental, btw, IINM...
> >
> >Jerry Cochran
>
>Jerry
>
>I too have an IO-360 that is rated for 91 octane and it is now fuel
>injected (used have a carberator). I have not used auto fuel mainly due to
>vapor lock and that is a real problem on hot or even warm days. I get a
>lot of surging during taxi back after a few touch and goes. Boost pump on
>helps somewhat but it still surges.
>
>Does anyone with fuel injection run auto fuel, and what are the pitfalls to
>consider or plan for?
>
>Bob
>RV6 NightFighter
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <RV-6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Builder assistance available |
Greetings
You want an RV but don't have the time to build it.
I can help.
I am a machinist by trade. I completed an RV-6 in 2200 hrs. (no
prepunced holes) and assisted on 2 others.
I am available to work on a project full time.
I am located in Lodi, CA.
Bud Newhall
RV-6(at)comcast.net
209-334-2911
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
>Does anyone with fuel injection run auto fuel, and what are the pitfalls to
>consider or plan for?
This was discussed yesterday at one hangar BS session. Check into
the utility of running 100LL during takeoff/climb/landing and autogas
during cruise (separate tanks of course) or adding perhaps five gallons
of 100LL to a tank of autogas.
Do verify these possible solutions before using them.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
Regarding the time it takes for the fuel to get from the valve to the
combustion chamber.
I run an O-320-E2G with carburetor and gascolator with a digital
engine monitor and was running some tests with 100LL in one tank and
regular 87 mogas in the other.
It took less than one (1) minute at full power to see the change on
the engine monitor EGTs after switching the valve from the avgas tank
to the mogas tank. I would expect less time on an injected motor
with no gascolator since you have less volume in the system.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2
At 10:23 2005-09-30, you wrote:
>
>Call AFP and order #22 nozzles. You currently have 28's (IO-360). Going to
>the smaller nozzle size increases line pressure and lowers the boiling
>point. Most injected RV's that I know of suffer from boiling in the
>injector lines after landing and this should greatly reduce it.
>
>As far as auto fuel goes. 100LL in one tank and auto fuel in the other.
>Take off land with 100LL cruise 65% power or less with auto fuel. Dont
>forget transition time with from one fuel to the other.......What would
>that be, 8~10 minutes?
>
>
> >
> >
> > >I have a Superior XP-IO360, and they say 91 octane mogas is fine, and in
> > >fact they encourage it. I plan to use at home airport for those
> $$$ burgers.
> > >Cross country, where it could pay off better, mostly unavailable. Totally
> > >legal
> > >to use mogas in experimental, btw, IINM...
> > >
> > >Jerry Cochran
> >
> >Jerry
> >
> >I too have an IO-360 that is rated for 91 octane and it is now fuel
> >injected (used have a carberator). I have not used auto fuel mainly due to
> >vapor lock and that is a real problem on hot or even warm days. I get a
> >lot of surging during taxi back after a few touch and goes. Boost pump on
> >helps somewhat but it still surges.
> >
> >Does anyone with fuel injection run auto fuel, and what are the pitfalls to
> >consider or plan for?
> >
> >Bob
> >RV6 NightFighter
> >
> >
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
I use 87 octane auto fuel (any brand, any place) in my fuel injected rotary (RV-4)
and never have had a hint of vapor lock in 1500+ hours. Not an apples to
apples comparison of course but I add this to emphasize that vapor lock is due
mainly to fuel system design, not the fuel.
No flames intended, but most aircraft fuel systems that I have seen are a "vapor
lock waiting to happen". It only takes a slight change in fuel vapor pressure
to push them over the edge.
Tracy Crook
RV-4 1500+ Hrs
RV-8 R.S.N.
>I have a Superior XP-IO360, and they say 91 octane mogas is fine, and in
>fact they encourage it. I plan to use at home airport for those $$$ burgers.
>Cross country, where it could pay off better, mostly unavailable. Totally
>legal
>to use mogas in experimental, btw, IINM...
>
>Jerry Cochran
Jerry
I too have an IO-360 that is rated for 91 octane and it is now fuel
injected (used have a carberator). I have not used auto fuel mainly due to
vapor lock and that is a real problem on hot or even warm days. I get a
lot of surging during taxi back after a few touch and goes. Boost pump on
helps somewhat but it still surges.
Does anyone with fuel injection run auto fuel, and what are the pitfalls to
consider or plan for?
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JT" <JohnTuck(at)tellicorealty.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel PricingFuel Pricing |
Slightly off topic too...
I am in the process of completing a grass strip in East TN and plan on building
a Hanger. I would appreicate comments on hangers, building suppliers etc. What
works well and what doesn't.
you can reply on list or off
Thanks,
John
johntuck(at)tellicorealty.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Double Eagle (AEG - Albuquerque NM) Fly-in 8-9 Oct 2005 |
Double Eagle Fly-in
8-9 October 2005
Where: Albuquerque NM Double Eagle II airport (KAEG);
<http://www.airnav.com/airport/KAEG>http://www.airnav.com/airport/KAEG
Fly-in principles: No scheduled events. Nice area with a variety of
events to keep spouses happy. The main attraction is the Balloon
Fiesta that ends on 9 Oct. Intended for a quick weekend getaway.
FBO: Bode
Aero:
<http://www.flybode.com/deairport.htm>http://www.flybode.com/deairport.htm
Airport restaurant: Prop Wash Caf=E9, 505-831-2359
Cost: No registration fee. Attendees are responsible for hotel
and car reservations. The FBO suggested making car reservations
through them (505-352-0292 or 877-384-9813). Possible $10 a night
tie-down fee.
Miscellaneous: Bring your own tiedown ropes/straps/etc. They have
tie-downs but having your own is a good backup. Please email
ronlee(at)pcisys.net if you intend to come to
ensure that ramp space does
not become a problem. Non-RV aircraft welcome. No camping on the
airport.
Aviation issues: Note that the edge of the Albuquerque airspace is almost
on top of AEG. Mountains are nearby. Density altitude can be high so
understand impact to flight (such as engine mixture leaning and higher
take-off and landing ground speeds).
Runway 17/35 is closed until further notice.
The view of Bode as you leave Runway 12/30 is shown below:
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/AEGFlyin/AEG_Arrival.jpg
As you enter the ramp area, parking is to your right as shown below:
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/AEGFlyin/AEG_Parking.jpg
Contact Bode on the Unicom for parking assistance.
Hotels: Many in the Albuquerque area. Those listed below were checked
27-28 June 2005. Strongly suggest making reservations as early as possible.
Hotels listed below in three groups based upon distance from airport (AEG)
and the balloon park. This is nowhere near a complete listing. Another
source for making reservations is
here: <http://www.nmtravel.com/bfres/>http://www.nmtravel.com/bfres/ or
888-398-5537 (Press 2 for reservations). Most prices exclude taxes. In
general I tried to price a single bed (usually king) and two adults.
I made a new hotel reservation on 29 Sep so rooms are available.
Group 1: Reasonably close to the balloon park on the north end of town (I-25)
Comfort Inn, 5811 Signal Ave NE, Albuquerque, NM 87113, (505) 822-1090, $125
Ramada Limited, 5601 Alameda Blvd NE, Albuquerque, NM 87113, (505)
858-3297, $139
Holiday Inn, 5401 Alameda Blvd NE, Albuquerque, NM 87113, (505) 797-2291, Full
Courtyard, 5151 Journal Center Blvd NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109, (505)
823-1919, $169
Albuquerque Pyramid Marriott, 5151 San Francisco Rd NE, Albuquerque,
NM 87109, (505) 821-3333, $189
Country Inn/Suites, 7620 N Pan American Fwy NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109,
(505) 823-1300, from $110
Howard Johnson Express Inn, 7630 N Pan American Fwy NE, Albuquerque,
NM 87109, (505) 828-1600, $115
Baymont Inns and Suites, 7439 S Pan American Fwy NE, Albuquerque,
NM 87109, (505) 345-7500, $70
Hampton Inn, 5101 Ellison St NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109, (505) 344-1555, $134
Quality Suites, 5251 San Antonio Dr NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109, (505)
797-0850, Full
La Quinta Inn, 5241 San Antonio Dr NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109, (505)
821-9000, $139
Group 2: Rio Rancho area to NW of Balloon Park (6-7 miles)
Days Inn Rio Rancho, 4200 Crestview Dr SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124, (505)
892-8800, $90
Ramada Limited, 4081 High Resort Blvd SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124, (505)
892-5998, $100 (limited rooms)
Super 8 Rio Rancho, 4100 Barbara Loop SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124, (505)
896-8888, $95
Best Western Inn, 1465 Rio Rancho Blvd SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124, (505)
892-1700, Full
Hilton, 1771 Rio Rancho Blvd SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124, (505) 896-1111, $129
Marriott, 4100 Sara Rd SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124
Group 3: 12 miles from the airport (KAEG) (south of I-40 at Exit 153) and
about 13 miles to the Balloon Park near I-25 exit 233 (north part of
Albuquerque)
La Quinta, 6101 Iliff Rd NW, Albuquerque, NM 87121, (505) 839-1744, $140
Holiday Inn Express- West, 6100 Iliff Rd NW, Albuquerque, NM 87121, (505)
836-8600, $120
Super 8, 6030 Iliff Rd NW=92 Albuquerque, NM 87121, (505) 836-5560, $54
Days Inn =96 Albuquerque West, 6031 Iliff Rd NW, Albuquerque, NM 87121, (505)
836-3297, $89-$99
Comfort Inn West, 5712 Iliff Rd NW, Albuquerque, NM 87105, (505) 836-0011,
$115
Red Roof, 6015 Iliff Rd NW, Albuquerque, NM 87121, (505) 831-3400, $70
Rental Cars: Bode Aero uses Enterprise, 505-922-1440, Midsize $43,
Standard $46, Full $49. Make a reservation to ensure car is there when
you arrive. Bode recommended that you make the car reservation through
them.
Things to do:
1) Balloon
Fiesta: <http://www.balloonfiesta.com/>http://www.balloonfiesta.com/
Saturday night has a balloon glow and fireworks with a mass ascension
Sunday morning. Schedule at
<http://www.balloonfiesta.com/scripts/index/list_events_total.php>http://www.balloonfiesta.com/scripts/index/list_events_total.php
2) Sante Fe is close to the
north. <http://www.airnav.com/airport/KSAF>http://www.airnav.com/airport/KSAF
Sante Fe website at <http://www.santafe.org/>http://www.santafe.org/
3) Petroglyph National
Monument: <http://www.nps.gov/petr/>http://www.nps.gov/petr/
4) Hiking in Albuquerque:
<http://www.localhikes.com/MSA/MSA_0200.asp>http://www.localhikes.com/MSA/MSA_0200.asp
http://www.trails.com/advancedfind.asp?keywordAlbuquerque&stateNM&activities&page1
<http://www.cabq.gov/openspace/lands.html>http://www.cabq.gov/openspace/lands.html
5) Sandia Peak Tram: <http://www.sandiapeak.com/>http://www.sandiapeak.com/
Bike rentals to ride down the mountain.
6) Albuquerque Visitors
Website: <http://www.abqcvb.org/>http://www.abqcvb.org/
Note: Balloon Fiesta is a trademark of the Albuquerque International
Balloon Fiesta, Inc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
>How long does it take in an RV for the engine to catch again after one
>runs a tank completely dry and then switches to the (hopefully) fuller tank ???
It is less than 30 seconds...perhaps closer to 10.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
Tracy
What should be done with the system to or failure points to look for as onbe
fabs. the fuel lines.
TIA
Frank @ SGU and SLC
>From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection
>Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 14:27:50 -0400
>
>
>I use 87 octane auto fuel (any brand, any place) in my fuel injected rotary
>(RV-4) and never have had a hint of vapor lock in 1500+ hours. Not an
>apples to apples comparison of course but I add this to emphasize that
>vapor lock is due mainly to fuel system design, not the fuel.
>
>No flames intended, but most aircraft fuel systems that I have seen are a
>"vapor lock waiting to happen". It only takes a slight change in fuel
>vapor pressure to push them over the edge.
>
>Tracy Crook
>RV-4 1500+ Hrs
>RV-8 R.S.N.
>
>
>>
>
>
> >I have a Superior XP-IO360, and they say 91 octane mogas is fine, and
>in
> >fact they encourage it. I plan to use at home airport for those $$$
>burgers.
> >Cross country, where it could pay off better, mostly unavailable.
>Totally
> >legal
> >to use mogas in experimental, btw, IINM...
> >
> >Jerry Cochran
>
> Jerry
>
> I too have an IO-360 that is rated for 91 octane and it is now fuel
> injected (used have a carberator). I have not used auto fuel mainly due
>to
> vapor lock and that is a real problem on hot or even warm days. I get a
> lot of surging during taxi back after a few touch and goes. Boost pump
>on
> helps somewhat but it still surges.
>
> Does anyone with fuel injection run auto fuel, and what are the pitfalls
>to
> consider or plan for?
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for RV-4 prop |
Has your friend found a useable prop ?? If not I likely have the one he
needs. Off of my 150 hp RV-6A.
B.Clary
Ufobuck(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where to buy the honeycomb that is in our cowlings? |
I often see small sizes of Hexcell Nomex Honeycomb on Ebaymotors under aviation
parts. You'll likely pay cut yard prices but if you only need small quanities
it might work out. I use Coremat in cowlings I make and sell available at the
link below. Coremat works great and does what Nomex does for a lot less money.
I make carbon fiber cowlings that weigh less than half the weight of the glass
parts.
http://www.uscomposites.com/specialty.html
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | anodizing engine baffles |
Hi Tom,
Your post has certainly generated lots of interest. I anodized the baffles
in my -4. During construction, I brought the baffles, and half a dozen
"firewall forward parts to a local plater and had everything gold anodized.
My -4 is just over 4 years old and has about 300 hours on it. After about
150 hours I noticed a crack along a bend-line in the baffle section where my
oil cooler mounts. I attribute this cracking (rightly or wrongly) to the
vibration associated with the heavy oil cooler. I cut-out the damaged
baffle section and replaced it with a piece of extruded angle. I did not
follow Van's advice and mount the cooler to the firewall as a -4 has so
little space on the firewall. To date, I have found no other cracks.
Interestingly, I have cracked two mounting plates used to attach the airbox
to the Airflow Performance fuel injection system. The first two plates were
(0.060") anodized. The third plate I ordered from Van's was not anodized,
so I simply alodined it and installed it (less than 50 hours ago). I made a
few mods to the way the airbox is mounted in the hopes of extending the life
of this part, so I will never know if alodining this part has improved its
service life.
All that being said, I am very happy with my anodized parts (baffles, spar,
etc.) and would not hesitate to continue the use of anodized parts in my
aircraft.
Good luck,
Dean Pichon
RV-4
300 hours
Bolton, MA
----Original Message Follows----
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: anodizing engine baffles
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 17:00:55 -0700
I am just starting on my engine baffles. I saw another builder's plane
which had the baffles blue anodized and it looks good. However,
anodizing hardens the surface and might make it more prone to crack.
I'm just guessing here.
Does any one have any experience with this? Are there planes with
hundreds of hours on them with anodized baffled that haven't cracked?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
> --> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Call AFP and order #22 nozzles. You currently have 28's
> (IO-360). Going to the smaller nozzle size increases line
> pressure and lowers the boiling point. Most injected RV's
> that I know of suffer from boiling in the injector lines
> after landing and this should greatly reduce it.
One caution here - be sure to check the full throttle fuel flow after
changing the nozzles, to be sure that peak flow rate has not been
compromised. The Airflow Performance system will compensate for some
limited amount of nozzle pressure increase, as it compares mass flow rates
of the air and fuel.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 667 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
-SNIP-
It took less than one (1) minute at full power to see the change on
the engine monitor EGTs after switching the valve from the avgas tank
to the mogas tank.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2
Hi Mike-
So, tell us what you saw !
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
Just my brief take on it but FWIW:
1. Minimize restrictions of any kind between fuel tank and main fuel pump. Boost
pump is a two edged sword here as it is a significant restriction when off.
I do not have a boost pump because I consider it a band-aid rather than a solution
to the root cause of vapor lock.
2. Keep as much of the system as possible cool. Gascollator on lower firewall
near exhaust system is both normal practice and insane. Mine is in the cockpit
with a remote drain under the belly.
3. Keep main pump in cool environment. I put the high pressure electric EFI pumps
(one for backup) in the cockpit to minimize line lengths and temperature.
Many would classify this as 'nuts' but I would rather have my nose detect a
fuel leak rather than have a fire under the cowl after the fact. This is of course
not possible in most Lycoming installations where the fuel pump is bolted
to a hot aircooled engine.
NEVER run an EFI pump dry. I have no tank selector valve preferring to draw &
return fuel to a single tank (left wing). A Facet pump refills the left from
the right when necessary. This also eliminates that decision when low on fuel
whether to switch tanks before or after the engine sputters. When low on fuel,
I pump every drop to the left.
It goes without saying that EFI is very dependant on electricity so plan accordingly.
Tracy Crook
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Stringham<mailto:fstringham(at)hotmail.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection
Tracy
What should be done with the system to or failure points to look for as onbe
fabs. the fuel lines.
TIA
Frank @ SGU and SLC
>From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com<mailto:lors01(at)msn.com>>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: >
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection
>Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 14:27:50 -0400
>
>
>I use 87 octane auto fuel (any brand, any place) in my fuel injected rotary
>(RV-4) and never have had a hint of vapor lock in 1500+ hours. Not an
>apples to apples comparison of course but I add this to emphasize that
>vapor lock is due mainly to fuel system design, not the fuel.
>
>No flames intended, but most aircraft fuel systems that I have seen are a
>"vapor lock waiting to happen". It only takes a slight change in fuel
>vapor pressure to push them over the edge.
>
>Tracy Crook
>RV-4 1500+ Hrs
>RV-8 R.S.N.
>
>
>>>
>
>
> >I have a Superior XP-IO360, and they say 91 octane mogas is fine, and
>in
> >fact they encourage it. I plan to use at home airport for those $$$
>burgers.
> >Cross country, where it could pay off better, mostly unavailable.
>Totally
> >legal
> >to use mogas in experimental, btw, IINM...
> >
> >Jerry Cochran
>
> Jerry
>
> I too have an IO-360 that is rated for 91 octane and it is now fuel
> injected (used have a carberator). I have not used auto fuel mainly due
>to
> vapor lock and that is a real problem on hot or even warm days. I get a
> lot of surging during taxi back after a few touch and goes. Boost pump
>on
> helps somewhat but it still surges.
>
> Does anyone with fuel injection run auto fuel, and what are the pitfalls
>to
> consider or plan for?
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
Does anyone firesleeve or otherwise insulate the small injector lines? Seems
like this might help.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
In a message dated 10/1/2005 12:00:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection
I use 87 octane auto fuel (any brand, any place) in my fuel injected rotary
(RV-4)
and never have had a hint of vapor lock in 1500+ hours. Not an apples to
apples comparison of course but I add this to emphasize that vapor lock is
due
mainly to fuel system design, not the fuel.
No flames intended, but most aircraft fuel systems that I have seen are a
"vapor
lock waiting to happen". It only takes a slight change in fuel vapor
pressure
to push them over the edge.
Tracy Crook
RV-4 1500+ Hrs
RV-8 R.S.N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com> |
autolearn=unavailable version=3.0.2
Ive ben on the list now for about a year. have a 6a which I am working on and doing
stuff to all the time, didnt build it, but am a 66 yr old gutsy type who
will take on anything, and have done quite a few things to upgrade "Tweetybird".
I wanted to ask a generic question.... Why is it that we can have 75 responses
to gas prices crap, 100 responses to another piece of usless drivel, and
maybe one or two responses to a question relating to fixing an actual problem
with our birds????????????? Charlie Heathco.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: List responses |
Charles heathco wrote:
>
>Ive ben on the list now for about a year. have a 6a which I am working on and
doing stuff to all the time, didnt build it, but am a 66 yr old gutsy type who
will take on anything, and have done quite a few things to upgrade "Tweetybird".
I wanted to ask a generic question.... Why is it that we can have 75 responses
to gas prices crap, 100 responses to another piece of usless drivel, and
maybe one or two responses to a question relating to fixing an actual problem
with our birds????????????? Charlie Heathco.
>
Just be grateful you *don't* get 100 different opinions on the right way
to do something that actually matters. Go to the archives & search
'primer'. :-)
You never know where & when you'll learn something new or discover
another way of looking at something. And if a thread has absolutely no
interest to you, download each day's messages, click on the
tab over the list of message headers (causes a sort by subject), &
delete all the messages with that subject line & move on.
Charlie
Head for Slobovia Outernational (MS71, Jackson MS) Oct 22 for some
pulled pork.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | MOGAS/AVGAS (was Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection) |
2.33 FROM_LOCAL_NOVOWEL From: localpart has series of non-vowel letters
This was the AutoFuel/Fuel Injection thread...
At 05:50 2005-10-01, you wrote:
>
>
>-SNIP-
>
>
>It took less than one (1) minute at full power to see the change on
>the engine monitor EGTs after switching the valve from the avgas tank
>to the mogas tank.
>
>Mike
>Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
>13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2
>
>
>Hi Mike-
>
>So, tell us what you saw !
>
>
>Glen Matejcek
>aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
I figured someone would come up with that question P-).
When I've got some recorded numbers to show I'll put it up on my web
space. Suffice it to say that before I had my data recorder I saw
about 30 deg F COOLER EGT on 100LL than I saw on 87 oct brand Ch
mogas. Now on my 150 hp 7:1 compression Lyc that didn't make much
sense to me. The higher octane should be still burning going past
the EGT probe unlike the lower octane gas that should have all burned
in the cylinder. I'm getting set up to do another run and will have
EGT and CHT numbers to compare. This time with my EI data recorder
to show me the numbers after the flight is over. Stay tuned.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List responses |
Charlie, the reason could be that everyone has an opinion on gas prices and
other useless drivel, but fewer have the knowledge or have experienced
related to a particular problem/topic you may wish to discuss. However, I
have also noticed that as Van's kits transitioned from the old pre
pre-punched kits to the new match-hole pre-punch members of the list seem to
have fewer questions related to building (understandable). Many currently
building have not and will not encounter the types of problems the earlier
kit builders faced . Therefore, the knowledge base on some topics is
probably decreasing - on the other hand the pre-punch kits bring their own
set of questions and problems {:>)
Ed A
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles heathco" <cheathco(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: RV-List: List responses
>
> Ive ben on the list now for about a year. have a 6a which I am working on
> and doing stuff to all the time, didnt build it, but am a 66 yr old gutsy
> type who will take on anything, and have done quite a few things to
> upgrade "Tweetybird". I wanted to ask a generic question.... Why is it
> that we can have 75 responses to gas prices crap, 100 responses to another
> piece of usless drivel, and maybe one or two responses to a question
> relating to fixing an actual problem with our birds????????????? Charlie
> Heathco.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: RV10-List: corrosion protection of the outer skins] |
Hi all,
sorry for the cross post, but I didn't get any feedback from the 10
list... any input would be appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [Fwd: RV10-List: corrosion protection of the outer skins] |
James, part of the problem could be that although you apologized for the
cross-post, you never actually brought over the original question... at
least I can't find it. All I see is the subject line that looks like a
plain vanilla primer question.
Given the twist you've added, e.g. pre-build storage w/o priming, I'd
suggest removing the plastic and spraying with LPS, ACF-50 or
Corrosion-X. I'd definitely remove the plastic even though the new stuff
is reportedly better than in older kits - Van's also recommends removing
it. Any of the anti-corrosion sprays are going to take a thorough
cleaning before primer or paint will adhere. If you ultimately plan to
use a one-step self-etching primer, I'd skip the spray/cleaning and go
straight to primer instead. Just spot prime whatever you scratch during
the build. If you want to use etch-alodine-epoxy or polish the skins
then I suspect you'll have to plan on a clean-up stage.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> Hi Kyle,
>
> I am aware of that. Anyone who has been subscribed to the
> list for more than a week is aware of the archives becuase of
> posts like yours. The question I am asking is around what to
> do while STORING the items BEFORE priming and painting. I
> haven't found anything in the archives on that issue. I
> would like to use something that isn't going to strip or
> damage the alclad but is going to protect the skins and be
> easy to clean off when it comes time to prep for painting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [Fwd: RV10-List: corrosion protection of the outer skins] |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
One thing I will add to Greg's post is if you can, keep the parts in a climate
controlled area. Specifically, low humidity. Especially if you are anywhere
near the ocean or any other large salt water body. The alclad will do a good
job fighting corrosion on it's own as long as the plastic is removed. Keeping
it shiny while you are building has no major benefit if you are planning on
painting and concern has been raised about corrosion progressing unchecked under
the plastic. If you think you scratched through the alclad you can always
spot prime, WD40, alodine pen it.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Young
Subject: RE: RV-List: [Fwd: RV10-List: corrosion protection of the outer skins]
James, part of the problem could be that although you apologized for the cross-post,
you never actually brought over the original question... at least I can't
find it. All I see is the subject line that looks like a plain vanilla primer
question.
Given the twist you've added, e.g. pre-build storage w/o priming, I'd suggest removing
the plastic and spraying with LPS, ACF-50 or Corrosion-X. I'd definitely
remove the plastic even though the new stuff is reportedly better than in older
kits - Van's also recommends removing it. Any of the anti-corrosion sprays
are going to take a thorough cleaning before primer or paint will adhere. If
you ultimately plan to use a one-step self-etching primer, I'd skip the spray/cleaning
and go straight to primer instead. Just spot prime whatever you scratch
during the build. If you want to use etch-alodine-epoxy or polish the skins
then I suspect you'll have to plan on a clean-up stage.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> Hi Kyle,
>
> I am aware of that. Anyone who has been subscribed to the list for
> more than a week is aware of the archives becuase of posts like yours.
> The question I am asking is around what to do while STORING the items
> BEFORE priming and painting. I haven't found anything in the archives
> on that issue. I would like to use something that isn't going to
> strip or damage the alclad but is going to protect the skins and be
> easy to clean off when it comes time to prep for painting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Vans Deluxe Fuel Caps |
G'day all,
Does anyone have experience with the Deluxe Fuel Caps available from Vans.
I am interested in knowing how they look and how well they seal in
comparison to the standard caps. I wouldn't mind the ability to lock my
tanks.
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | RV6-A Harness Anchors |
7.50 BARRACUDA_HEADER_FP56 RBL: Blacklist bl.spamcop
[Blocked - see <http://www.spamcop.net/bl.shtml?12.156.70.194>]
List I can't seem to locate the plan call out for installation of the shoulder
harness anchors? The anchors are numbered FB36 and came in bag 673. Any help with
the plan number or perhaps a picture would be appreciated.
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | F-863 interference with F-872A root fairing |
There has been plenty of talk on this issue in the past - RV8list, RV8
yahoo... Concensus seems to be that there invariably is interference, and
the part needs to be trimmed. When I think of the time I spent making the
part perfect as per plans and now I have to trim it down... This is one
where Vans knows there is a problem but it appears to be inconsequential, so
it is up to us builders to work around the problem.
Michele
RV8 - Fuselage
I'm wondering if anyone else has had a problem fitting the forward wing
root fairing on an RV-8 due to interference with the fuselage tank
attach bracket (F-863).
I obviously have the tank attach bracket too high. About 3/8" would have
to be removed from this bracket to allow for a straight/level. It seems
as though I would still have plenty of edge distance, but I'm worried
about the overall bracket strength if I remove enough to clear.
I'll be calling Vans to see what they say but, I'm hoping someone else
has been there before.
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> |
I installed them on my RV-8 and they were simple to install (used
Proseal) and they sealed with no problem. Very high quality. Only
down side is they do restrict the size of the opening slightly but no
problem for normal nozzle or gas can spout. They look great and with
the price of 100LL it is good you can lock them up.
G'day all,
Does anyone have experience with the Deluxe Fuel Caps available from
Vans.
I am interested in knowing how they look and how well they seal in
comparison to the standard caps. I wouldn't mind the ability to lock my
tanks.
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Deluxe Fuel Caps |
I have installed these a couple of times now and I must say they are really
nice hardware. Mechanically very smooth and easy to open and close. I don't
know if they seal any better than the Usher caps that are standard but I
suspect they do. They work on a different principle of sealing...they
flatten an o ring onto a mating surface. The usher caps expand an o ring
into the filler neck to seal and I would think would be harder to get a
perfect seal. The deluxe caps are obviously quite a bit more
expensive......So its nicer hardware VS more cost (not the last time you are
going to have to make that decision :)
Cheers.....
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Lewis" <rv10(at)tpg.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: Vans Deluxe Fuel Caps
>
> G'day all,
>
> Does anyone have experience with the Deluxe Fuel Caps available from Vans.
>
> I am interested in knowing how they look and how well they seal in
> comparison to the standard caps. I wouldn't mind the ability to lock my
> tanks.
>
> Have fun,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV6-A Harness Anchors |
The anchors are attached to the top of the main longerons just fwd of the F608
bulkhead (if I counted correctly.) It's the one just fwd of the HS deck and far
enough to make it a PITA to reach through those holes to tighten the bolts on
the anchor. I don't recall the dwg # and it is a little obscure but there are
only a couple that show that area.
Greg Young
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Tom & Cathy Ervin
Subject: RV-List: RV6-A Harness Anchors
List I can't seem to locate the plan call out for installation of the shoulder
harness anchors? The anchors are numbered FB36 and came in bag 673. Any help with
the plan number or perhaps a picture would be appreciated.
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A Harness Anchors |
Tom;
The seat belt anchors are bolted to the top longeron with three AN-3-5A
bolts just forward of the F-608 bulkhead,
See drawing number 33at the far right side and just below center.
G'day and happy building!
Jim Oke
Wpg., MB
RV-6A C-GKGZ
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
>List I can't seem to locate the plan call out for installation of the shoulder
harness anchors? The anchors are numbered FB36 and came in bag 673. Any help
with the plan number or perhaps a picture would be appreciated.
>
Tom in Ohio
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Dreaming of a tandem? |
Thanks Mike. I have been running this issue through my mind as I build my
F1. After loving both of my RV6A for the past 5 years and most all of my
time is with a passenger. I have often thought that the person beside me
felt like a passenger and the one behind me might feel like baggage. Since
that person is usually my children or wife it was a concern. I appreciate
Michelle's observations.
John Furey
RV6A
F1 in the oven
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dreaming of a tandem? |
Amen.
Been saying this for years.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II - Wife, who likes the tandem too.
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dreaming of a tandem?
>
>
> Have you been dreaming of a right stick left throttle? Thoughts of
> centerline rolling? Maybe swapping out the side by side for a tandem
> only to find that your wife wont have any part of looking at the back of
> your head? Well read on then. I had the same problem. For 2 years I have
> heard nothing but whining and complaining about the prospects of her
> looking at the back of my head. This past weekend she got some real time
> back there and it turns out, she really likes it. Even better than the
> side by side if you can believe that.
> Snip below is from my wife Michelle to our yahoo group of formation
> friends that I thought you might like to read and perhaps share with
> your significant other. Michelle would be happy to speak to any of the
> wives as well if you need some extra boost off the fence. Michelle has
> many many hours in the -6 and even on the first 2 hour mission, she is
> already converted. Yipee?
>
> Best
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: teamrv(at)yahoogroups.com [mailto:teamrv(at)yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
> Of Michelle Stewart
> To: Team RV; Bruce Haase
> Subject: [Team RV] Sunday Flying from Photo's Perspective
>
> I was thinking one day, I needed to get to know Mike's new toy, the
> "Super 8", a little better and more "personally", so I asked him to take
> me flying on Sunday. I didn't care where we went, we didn't even have
> to have a destination - I just wanted to fly. Over the North Georgia
> Mountains or Lake Lanier would have been fine. As many of you know,
> I've been a little skeptical about this tandem thing, after enjoying the
> side-by-side of the RV6 for so long.
>
> It turns out Mike had a quick meeting early Sunday morning in
> Cartersville, GA, to redo some paperwork for the -8. So we got to the
> airport early and took off for Cartersville. Boy, that airplane is
> smooooooooooooth, and quiet, too! I powered up the GPS in the back seat
> and could not believe it - we were going about 225 kts (with a tail
> wind)! It was a beautiful morning and the flight was great (but quick!)
> - I can't believe the visibility in the -8.
>
> On the way to Cartersville, we discussed the options of where to go
> after his meeting, and decided to try my brother Bruce, who recently
> moved to Guntersville, AL, overlooking beautiful Guntersville Lake. I
> had not seen his house there yet. I called Bruce from the Cartersville
> airport and caught him just before heading out for church. Mike said he
> guestimated 40 minutes to get from Cartersville to Guntersville, so
> Bruce said he'd pick us up at the airport in 45 minutes. We took off,
> and Mike asked if I wanted to try flying it (another one of my
> criticisms of the -8 - you can't see nor fly it from the back seat!).
> Well, I was wrong - within a few minutes, he walked me through setting
> up my GPS, and I flew it! It was really easy to fly and again,
> visibility was no problem! As I settled in to flying it and watching
> the GPS, I noticed we only had 16 minutes ete to Guntersville! This
> thing really IS fast!
>
> We landed at Guntersville airport, after passing over the lake and my
> brother's house. Bruce arrived shortly thereafter and we went to his
> place (adorable, beautiful view, and NO rat-race like Atlanta), had
> breakfast in town, then headed back to the airport. We planned on doing
> a couple of passes over Bruce's house, which ended up including a roll.
> I cannot believe how smooth this airplane is. I don't know all the
> technological or mechanical terms or reasons why, but it just
> feels..."smoother"!
>
> I really "connected" with the airplane on Sunday, as I told Mike. I
> love the space and comfort in the back seat. Visibility forward is no
> problem; visibility everywhere else is excellent. Mike's cute little
> rear-view mirrors a great - we can actually see each other's face while
> we talk. The tinted canopy is great for controlling most of the sun's
> brightness, but I'll probably get a stick-on type sun shade for those
> long trips. The fresh air in the back is great - the HEAT is awesome,
> too! I have heat in the back seat of an -8! What more could I ask for?
>
> Only one problem on my first real experience in the Super 8: I forgot
> the camera! But I did get to analyze and enjoy the plane and the flying
> more without it.
>
> So until next time......
>
> Photo
> "Click"!
> mhurleyga(at)yahoo.com
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Find out about Red Bull Air Race.
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/hQw31A/QKhLAA/SrUaAA/jrDrlB/TM
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/teamrv/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> teamrv-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Full Swivel Tail wheel |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I have decided to switch over to the Vans Full Swivel Tail wheel
Assembly. My current tail wheel is looking pretty tired and I was
wondering if there is a consensus on a replacement tire for that unit. I
have seen mentioned a pneumatic tail wheel which seems like it would be
both lighter & quieter than the solid rock like puck I currently have.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Robin Marks
RV-4
200 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com> |
| Subject: | Wing tip com antenna |
Hey Guys,
I am conducting a survey. Does anyone out there flying have a wing tip installed
com antenna? If so does it work? Well?
Thanks for your feedback.
Jimmy Ayres
RV7AQB
Hey Guys,
I am conducting a survey. Does anyone out there flying
have a wing tip installed com antenna? If so does it work? Well?
Thanks for your feedback.
Jimmy Ayres
RV7AQB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Wing tip com antenna |
I have one installed but no longer hooked up...does that count?!?! I really
like the archer NAV wingtip antennas, but don't use my wingtip comm. While
they do work, the don't come close to working nearly as well as a bent whip
belly mounted antenna. Living under Class B airspace I really like to have
good comm, so the wingtip comm ended up disconnected and we installed a bent
whip. This is fairly typical with the RV's, as the wingtip doesn't allow
for much vertical polarization for the comm antenna. I suspect if you could
get it completely vertical it would work much better, but it just doesn't
work that well in an RV installation.
Just my 2 cents!
Cheers,
Stein.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of AYRES, JIMMY L
> Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 1:06 PM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: Wing tip com antenna
>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
>
> I am conducting a survey. Does anyone out there flying have a
> wing tip installed com antenna? If so does it work? Well?
>
>
> Thanks for your feedback.
>
>
> Jimmy Ayres
>
> RV7AQB
>
>
>
>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
>
>
>
>
> I am conducting a survey. Does anyone out there flying
> have a wing tip installed com antenna? If so does it work? Well?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks for your feedback.
>
>
>
>
>
> Jimmy Ayres
>
>
> RV7AQB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tomvelvick(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | looking for rv-6a slider canopy windshield |
Thinking about redoing the windshield portion on my rv-6a slider. Wondered if anyone
had a cracked or bad canopy with a good front section that could still be
used on it that wanted to get rid of it. If so, please contact me at tomvelvick(at)cox.net
or 623-261-2906.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
N7053L RV-4
N53KT RV-4
RV-6a engine and canopy work
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A Harness Anchors |
Hope I can get them in place on a completed RV! Got the FAA coming the 14th
and didn't notice it before. I must have had the interior in 10 times during
the process....even tested the crouch strap reinforcement but never the
"Complete System" till now.
Thanks, Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6-A Harness Anchors
>
> Tom;
>
> The seat belt anchors are bolted to the top longeron with three AN-3-5A
> bolts just forward of the F-608 bulkhead,
>
> See drawing number 33at the far right side and just below center.
>
> G'day and happy building!
>
> Jim Oke
> Wpg., MB
> RV-6A C-GKGZ
>
>
> Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
>>
>>List I can't seem to locate the plan call out for installation of the
>>shoulder harness anchors? The anchors are numbered FB36 and came in bag
>>673. Any help with the plan number or perhaps a picture would be
>>appreciated.
>>
>> Tom in Ohio
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-A Harness Anchors |
To think I was just bragging about not needing to crawl back there again!
Thanks for the help Greg.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6-A Harness Anchors
>
> The anchors are attached to the top of the main longerons just fwd of the
> F608 bulkhead (if I counted correctly.) It's the one just fwd of the HS
> deck and far enough to make it a PITA to reach through those holes to
> tighten the bolts on the anchor. I don't recall the dwg # and it is a
> little obscure but there are only a couple that show that area.
>
> Greg Young
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Tom & Cathy Ervin
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV6-A Harness Anchors
>
>
> List I can't seem to locate the plan call out for installation of the
> shoulder harness anchors? The anchors are numbered FB36 and came in bag
> 673. Any help with the plan number or perhaps a picture would be
> appreciated.
>
> Tom in Ohio
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Hilger" <rvsixer(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Square/Rectangular Engine Instruments |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jamie Painter" <jamie(at)jpainter.org>
Subject: RV-List: Square/Rectangular Engine Instruments
Anyone have a source for square/rectangular engine instruments? I'm
looking for something similar to what's found in the newer Mooney
Ovation 2's (not the G-1000 equipped aircraft).
Mitchell makes a line of small,modular instruments, available at Aircraft
Spruce.
No idea as to quality or how reliable they are...
Mike Hilger
RV-6, N207AM, 720 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight of Honolulu RV-6A |
N-79PT took it's first flight at 0732 HST from runway 8R (Reef Runway) at Honolulu
International Airport. "It jumped in the air, and flies very fast" reported
my trusty test pilot Bob Justman, "almost as good as my RV-8, but easier to
land". Thanks Bob!
It flew great with no surprises. Eight years of careful construction (6 productive
ones) finally paid off! Looking forward to many years of fun flying and
adventures.
Many thanks to all the staff at Vans Aircraft and the insightful RV Listers. Much
mahalo to my South Ramp hanger buddies for thier encouragement and support,
my friends at the Hawaii Air National Guard, parents, siblings, kids, and wives
for the many many years of support!
Aloha,
Greg (:>
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Greetings listers,
Has anyone done the testing to determine a power setting for zero thrust
in an RV-6 or -6A?
RHDudley
-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
On 4 Oct 2005, at 16:30, Richard Dudley wrote:
>
> Greetings listers,
>
> Has anyone done the testing to determine a power setting for zero
> thrust
> in an RV-6 or -6A?
If you have a fixed pitch prop, there should be a linear relationship
between the rpm for zero thrust and the True Airspeed. If you have a
constant speed prop it may get a bit more complicated, depending on
whether the prop is governing, or whether it is sitting on one of its
pitch stops.
For a fixed pitch prop, the rpm required will vary with the prop
pitch, airspeed and altitude. Each prop manufacturer has their own
scheme to define prop pitch. Each RV has its own ASI and static
source position error. So someone else's result probably won't be
applicable to your aircraft.
The testing to determine the rpm vs TAS relationship for zero thrust
would be quite delicate to get accurate results. It would also
require quite a few timed descents with the engine stopped and prop
stopped, so it isn't for the faint of heart.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
Richard Dudley wrote:
>
>Greetings listers,
>
>Has anyone done the testing to determine a power setting for zero thrust
>in an RV-6 or -6A?
>
>RHDudley
>-6A
>
The CAFE Foundation guys use microswitches tracking the back side of the
prop flange. End play of the crank is detected by the switches &
throttle is tweaked to *not* activate either switch.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
I guess I am with Ron. What does zero thrust mean?
Zero thrust is the condition where the thrust from the prop (under very
slight power) is equal to the drag of the prop disc. It is meant to
simulate a dead engine/ stopped prop condition. It is used often in
multi-engine training to simulate an engine out, without actually
shutting down the engine. If one were to simply shut down the engine,
the drag from the windmilling prop would be much more than the drag of a
stopped prop, so just killing the engine is not "zero-thrust."
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Dreaming of a tandem? |
Check with lokar and zoop, both supply tons of cool billet stuff including
small odd shaped mirrors to hot rod guys. I bought a cool one for a cobra
project recently.
Steve
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I have been looking or mirrors for my 8 and have not found any that I like
so a supplier would also be great.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | MT Propeller 183-59 Blade Exchange Offer |
Hi All,
MT Propeller and Less Drag Products, Inc. is offering a blade exchange
program for the Lycoming 360 3 blade MT Propeller.
If you have the MTV-12, or MTV-18, 3 blade MT Propeller on your Lycoming 360
engine, you can exchange your present 183-59 blades for the new 183-59b
blades.
You might be interested in this offer if you would like to remove the mid
range RPM restriction on your Lycoming 360 engine, and increase your cruise
speed by about 5 mph.
MT Propeller is offering to exchange your present three 183-59 blades with a
new set of 183-59b blades for about the same price as a single 183-59b blade.
(The list price for a single replacement 183-59b blade is $2,430.)
Less Drag Products, Inc. will coordinate the actual blade set replacement
for your propeller, based on your location and replacement blade set
availability.
Please contact Less Drag Products, Inc. directly at _jim(at)lessdrag.com_
(mailto:jim(at)lessdrag.com) to obtain a schedule and cost estimate.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
(805) 499-8646 FAX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
In a message dated 10/4/2005 12:49:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
lors01(at)msn.com writes:
I agree that the gascolator may be un-needed (as long as you have good tank
drains).
==========================================
...AND you use them at every fill-up after you have let your new fuel fill
settle for awhile...OR you really trust the maintenance people at the fuel
station to have changed their water separator.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 765hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
On 20:14:25 2005-10-04 Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> I agree that the gascolator may be un-needed (as long as you have
> good tank drains).
Unless you're building in Canada, in which case not installing a Gascolator
is not an option. Every Amateur-Built aircraft in Canada requires a
Gascolator as per the CARs.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Auto Fuel/Fuel Injection |
> > I agree that the gascolator may be un-needed (as long as you have
> > good tank drains).
>
> Unless you're building in Canada, in which case not installing a
Gascolator
> is not an option. Every Amateur-Built aircraft in Canada requires a
> Gascolator as per the CARs.
>
That's interesting. I know you guys are talking about fuel injected
engines, vapor locking, etc.; but, my factory built AA-5A Grumman-American
Cheetah did not have a gascolator.
In fact, I used that information to not install a gascolator in my RV. I
had one in my C172
and had no trouble with it; but, others had leak problems. I do have the
same type fuel
pump as in the Cheetah, that being the round type Facet with a small screen
in the bottom.
That is inspected at each annual. Rarely do I find so much as a drop of
water in the pump.
Never do I find junk in the screen. I also use auto gas.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Sealer on Whelen strobe lights |
Listers,
I just received my Whelen strobe lights. They are sealed with some white
ProSeal like, Sikaflex like substance which is quite rubbery and which seems
perfect for preserving wires from chaffing against each other as they come
out of connectors or pass through grommets. Any of you guys have an idea as
to what Whelen might have used ? Or could you recommend a similar product ?
Thanks,
Michele
RV8 - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
I thought that people who hang around GA airplanes were a fine lot. In our
little airport in France, we have approximately 100 airplanes, 40 of which
are homebuilts. People tend to know each other as there are a lot of old
pilots. Things were fine in the best of possible worlds 'till one day,
someone, while fueling up, discovered some white crystalline stuff at the
fuel tank entrance on a DR400. Upon closer examination, it turned out to be
sugar. Believe or not, we found three airplanes with over a pound of sugar
in the gas tanks, one of which flew for an hour - mercifully, sugar does not
seem to disolve in gazoline, and the filters got it. Of coures, this is
criminal and there is an investigation by our local Gendarmerie to uncover
who did this. Believe me, we were p?"&x@ed.
Furthermore, the price of gazoline is bound to go up some.
These two facts convinced me that there is definite valu in installing
lockable gas caps.
I installed Van's deluxe caps on my RV8, they look great, a lot better than
the standard offering. I have not flown with them but they passed the tank
leaks test with flying colors.
That's my two cents worth.
Michele
September 20, 2005 - October 05, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-rh