RV-Archive.digest.vol-ri
October 05, 2005 - October 23, 2005
RV8 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed OConnor
I installed them on my RV-8 and they were simple to install (used
Proseal) and they sealed with no problem. Very high quality. Only down
side is they do restrict the size of the opening slightly but no problem for
normal nozzle or gas can spout. They look great and with the price of 100LL
it is good you can lock them up.
G'day all,
Does anyone have experience with the Deluxe Fuel Caps available from Vans.
I am interested in knowing how they look and how well they seal in
comparison to the standard caps. I wouldn't mind the ability to lock my
tanks.
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
Hi All,
I believe it takes about 1300 RPM for the governor to have control of the
propeller.
I believe you will see the propeller windmilling at around 1000 RPM in low
pitch.
So it isn't going to work to try to reduce the RPM with coarse pitch on a
standard CS propeller.
The counterweighted blade CS propeller operates from coarse pitch (low RPM),
instead of fine pitch (high RPM). With the same best glide engine off
situation, the counterweighted blades automatically go towards coarse pitch (low
RPM) providing a 67% decrease in propeller drag (on MT propellers).
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 10/05/2005 7:43:59 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
mstewart(at)iss.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
Ok I get what Zero thrust is. But again:
Whats the point of caring what it is? What does knowing it do for me?
What change in decisioning would I make if I knew it?
And as a note:
On my c/s prop at best glide engine off, I can not make my prop change
pitch. Moving blue knob does nothing while prop is windmilling.
Mike
S8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
On 8:10:46 2005-10-05 Ron Lee wrote:
> I am a bit slow with some concepts so bear with me.
> It seems like this zero thrust issue may be relevant to
> determining engine out glide path. I am still unclear
> on the real world implication. Assume you lose power
> and lower the nose to near best glide speed. Won't the
> prop continue to turn? If so, how is that tied to zero thrust?
> I have a fixed pitch prop.
Unless you have a wooden prop or some kind of catastrophic failure within
your engine case, your prop is likely to keep turning unless you actively
try to stop it. A wooden prop has a lot less momentum in it, if you apply
almost *any* back pressure on the stick with the engine stopped, the prop
will stop turning very quickly. A metal prop will take more of a nose-up
attitude to get the blades to stop turning.
If you are reasonably high when you have an engine failure, you will be
better off stopping the prop first before starting your glide. You may
increase your range considerably. The trade-off is that you will first
lose some airspeed while you're stopping the prop, then some altitude when
you regain your glide speed.
I haven't run the numbers on an RV, but I did do it for a Cessna 150 (with
a metal prop) a while ago, and my recollection was that the "break even"
point was very near 2000'. Over 2000', I could stretch my glide by
stopping the prop. Under 2000', I get a longer glide by riding it down.
And it's a lot safer to try these things than people think. Take your
plane up to 5000' sometime, and pull the mixture. Engine stops. Push it
in again. Engine starts. Prop keeps turning either way. Do it again, and
this time pull the nose up until the prop stops. Then you can either push
the nose down to get the prop to start spinning, or flick your starter, and
push the mixture back in. The engine will start right up.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
On 10/5/05 8:27 AM, "Richard Dudley" wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Thanks for the many responses.
> This was not intended as a trick question.
> My apologies for not expanding on the reasons for the question.
> The CAFE report on the -6A described the use of microswitches to detect
> when the force on the crankshaft shifted from "tractoring" to
> "windmilling". They considered that transition to be "zero thrust" and
> that the plane simulated a pure glider without securing the engine.
> Years ago in Navy flight training in the SNJ (T6) there was a power
> setting that was considered neither drag or thrust from the propeller.
> This was used for engine out practice (assuming that the propeller could
> be stopped from windmilling in the real case).
> In the recent past on this list there was a thread about engine out
> glide performance with and without a windmilling prop where some had
> actually done the experiment with the engine secured. (Kevin's comment:
I did a very rough experiment at one speed where I compared engine at idle,
engine shut off but propeller windmilling and propeller stopped. There were
the expected differences, but they were not of a large magnitude. Should be
in the archives somewhere.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying, Fixed Pitch Sensenich
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
The difference between stopped and the slow windmill at my best glide
was negligible on my fat blade hartzell c/s prop. I agree with the
previous post about stopping the prop. I decided if I have over 3k'agl,
I would pitch up to stop the prop then resume best glide. Requires stick
nearly in my lap on the 8 do it and not something I would be comfortable
doing below 3k'.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Pardue
Subject: Re: RV-List: Zero Thrust
On 10/5/05 8:27 AM, "Richard Dudley" wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Thanks for the many responses.
> This was not intended as a trick question.
> My apologies for not expanding on the reasons for the question.
> The CAFE report on the -6A described the use of microswitches to
detect
> when the force on the crankshaft shifted from "tractoring" to
> "windmilling". They considered that transition to be "zero thrust" and
> that the plane simulated a pure glider without securing the engine.
> Years ago in Navy flight training in the SNJ (T6) there was a power
> setting that was considered neither drag or thrust from the propeller.
> This was used for engine out practice (assuming that the propeller
could
> be stopped from windmilling in the real case).
> In the recent past on this list there was a thread about engine out
> glide performance with and without a windmilling prop where some had
> actually done the experiment with the engine secured. (Kevin's
comment:
I did a very rough experiment at one speed where I compared engine at
idle,
engine shut off but propeller windmilling and propeller stopped. There
were
the expected differences, but they were not of a large magnitude.
Should be
in the archives somewhere.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying, Fixed Pitch Sensenich
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
On 5 Oct 2005, at 10:41, Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
>
> Ok I get what Zero thrust is. But again:
> Whats the point of caring what it is? What does knowing it do for me?
> What change in decisioning would I make if I knew it?
>
>
> And as a note:
> On my c/s prop at best glide engine off, I can not make my prop change
> pitch. Moving blue knob does nothing while prop is windmilling.
>
> Mike
> S8
It is useful to know how to simulate a zero thrust condition if you
have a multi-engined aircraft where you would feather the prop after
an engine failure. For training, you would put the simulated failed
engine in a zero thrust condition, rather than shut it down and
feather the prop.
For single-engined aircraft, people generally do the training with
the engine at idle. If the prop stops in a real engine failure, the
glide performance will be a bit different than it was during training
with engine at idle. But, the real problem is what happens if the
engine fails and the prop keeps windmilling. A windmilling constant-
speed prop will create a lot more drag than was seen during training
with engine at idle.
I can see the value in finding a condition that will simulate a
windmilling prop (e.g. with partial flaps and power, to simulate
flaps up with failed engine and windmilling prop). I don't
immediately see the value in simulating a zero thrust condition. But
maybe I am missing something.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
Another thought.
I was taught during primary training in a fixed pitch prop airplane to set
the throttle to zero thrust when abreast of the runway for landing. The
theory, I guess, was that if the airplane was in landing configuration with
zero thrust then if the engine quit you wouldn't have much change in your
approach for landing. Like I said, I guess, because I certainlyh didn't
understand much at that stage of the game. I been flying mostly constant
speed since then so it isn't as relavant.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Kevin Horton
Date: 10/05/05 14:36:12
Subject: Re: RV-List: Zero Thrust
On 5 Oct 2005, at 10:41, Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
>
> Ok I get what Zero thrust is. But again:
> Whats the point of caring what it is? What does knowing it do for me?
> What change in decisioning would I make if I knew it?
>
>
> And as a note:
> On my c/s prop at best glide engine off, I can not make my prop change
> pitch. Moving blue knob does nothing while prop is windmilling.
>
> Mike
> S8
It is useful to know how to simulate a zero thrust condition if you
have a multi-engined aircraft where you would feather the prop after
an engine failure. For training, you would put the simulated failed
engine in a zero thrust condition, rather than shut it down and
feather the prop.
For single-engined aircraft, people generally do the training with
the engine at idle. If the prop stops in a real engine failure, the
glide performance will be a bit different than it was during training
with engine at idle. But, the real problem is what happens if the
engine fails and the prop keeps windmilling. A windmilling constant-
speed prop will create a lot more drag than was seen during training
with engine at idle.
I can see the value in finding a condition that will simulate a
windmilling prop (e.g. with partial flaps and power, to simulate
flaps up with failed engine and windmilling prop). I don't
immediately see the value in simulating a zero thrust condition. But
maybe I am missing something.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: anodizing engine baffles |
Anodized can cause cracking if not done properly. It is called hydrogen embittlment.
If done properly the change in fatigue life is small, but it is not the
ideal finish. It all depends on the surface and material. If you bead shot blast
a surface you can improve fatigue and crack resistance, but that does not make
sense for a clad aluminum material. Bare aluminum yes you can peen the surface.
However we are talking about sheet metal and there is not a lot you can
do because shot blasting can warp it.
In a message dated 9/27/2005 5:04:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
sarg314(at)comcast.net writes:
I am just starting on my engine baffles. I saw another builder's plane
which had the baffles blue anodized and it looks good. However,
anodizing hardens the surface and might make it more prone to crack.
I'm just guessing here.
Does any one have any experience with this? Are there planes with
hundreds of hours on them with anodized baffled that haven't cracked?
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Tip-up canopy aft end fiberglass strip |
Searched the archives with no luck so I thought I'd toss this out to
everyone -
The roll bar on my 7A tip-up is not terrible, but it's not a work of art
either. So, I am considering putting a strip of fiberglass over the aft
end of the tip-up canopy to 'hide' it. It would be about 2-3 inches
wide, overhang the aft window by about a half and inch, and would only
be attached to the tip up portion. I was thinking that this might also
prevent leaks between the aft window and the tip up, as well as
eliminate or reduce wind noise since there is a small gap between the
two halves.
A friend did this, and it blew off in-flight fairly quickly. As a
result, he suggests using screws to ensure a permanent attachment.
Anyone have any recommendations regarding this, or reasons not to use
the glass at all?
Since the strip would not be attached to the aft window, would air
pressure or wind try to get underneath it from the back and try to rip
it off or crack of chunks and pieces?
Thanks in advance.
Bryan Hooks
RV-7A tip-up, finish kit, slow-build
Knoxville, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DWAIN HARRIS" <DJaerosports(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip com antenna |
Hey Jim ,My has worked great for the last 7yrs
Dwain Harris
RV-6 N164DH
Tehachapi, Ca
----- Original Message -----
From: AYRES, JIMMY L<mailto:JAYRES(at)entergy.com>
To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 11:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing tip com antenna
Hey Guys,
I am conducting a survey. Does anyone out there flying have a wing tip installed
com antenna? If so does it work? Well?
Thanks for your feedback.
Jimmy Ayres
RV7AQB
Hey Guys,
I am conducting a survey. Does anyone out there flying
have a wing tip installed com antenna? If so does it work? Well?
Thanks for your feedback.
Jimmy Ayres
RV7AQB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip-up canopy aft end fiberglass strip |
For what its worth, Bryan. I installed an aluminum strip 3" wide of 0.032
2024T3 on the aft end of my tip-up. It overhangs the back part by approx 1
1/2", hides my not so even canopy cut and keeps the wind/rain out. I
installed mine before pop riveting the canopy to the frame, so could use the
same pop rivets as held the canopy. Have 300 hours on it with no problem.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Tip-up canopy aft end fiberglass strip
>
> Searched the archives with no luck so I thought I'd toss this out to
> everyone -
>
> The roll bar on my 7A tip-up is not terrible, but it's not a work of art
> either. So, I am considering putting a strip of fiberglass over the aft
> end of the tip-up canopy to 'hide' it. It would be about 2-3 inches
> wide, overhang the aft window by about a half and inch, and would only
> be attached to the tip up portion. I was thinking that this might also
> prevent leaks between the aft window and the tip up, as well as
> eliminate or reduce wind noise since there is a small gap between the
> two halves.
>
> A friend did this, and it blew off in-flight fairly quickly. As a
> result, he suggests using screws to ensure a permanent attachment.
> Anyone have any recommendations regarding this, or reasons not to use
> the glass at all?
>
> Since the strip would not be attached to the aft window, would air
> pressure or wind try to get underneath it from the back and try to rip
> it off or crack of chunks and pieces?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Bryan Hooks
> RV-7A tip-up, finish kit, slow-build
> Knoxville, TN
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Sealer on Whelen strobe lights |
I thought the sealer on the strobes was just silicon but I really don't
know. However, I have the good fortune of being based at an airport that
has a Cirrus approved warranty maintenance center and get to see how Cirrus
Aircraft are constructed. All wires and push/pull controls which pass
through the firewall have a stainless steel cover over a rubber grommet
covered with a healthy dab of red high temperature silicone. They also have
conduits to run wires through and they place a dab at the end of the
conduit enclosing the wires as well. I did that on my RV6 and found it
relieves strain on the wires, keeps chaffing down and it can be easily cut
away if need be to rewire if you wish.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
90 hours
Northfield, MN
>
> Subject: RV-List: Sealer on Whelen strobe lights
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I just received my Whelen strobe lights. They are sealed with some white
> ProSeal like, Sikaflex like substance which is quite rubbery and which
seems
> perfect for preserving wires from chaffing against each other as they come
> out of connectors or pass through grommets. Any of you guys have an idea
as
> to what Whelen might have used ? Or could you recommend a similar product
?
>
> Thanks,
> Michele
> RV8 - Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip-up canopy aft end fiberglass strip |
There is discussion in the archives on this. Search for targa strip.
It should be built as you describe. Attach with adhesive and use the screws
that hold the canopy glass on the roll over bar. You may need screws that
are about 1/8" longer than supplied with kit. Lots of tip ups have this
strip. Carefully done and finished it will enhance the looks of your plane
and be functional for keeping water and wind out. It will also hide any
unsightly damage or work. I for instance have both corners at the bottom
with cracks where the canopy glass edge has touched the metal skin while
closing. The targa strip will hide that.
Indiana Larry in Evansville, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker 65 hours and still
grinning.........
----- Original Message -----
>
> Searched the archives with no luck so I thought I'd toss this out to
> everyone -
>
> The roll bar on my 7A tip-up is not terrible, but it's not a work of art
> either. So, I am considering putting a strip of fiberglass over the aft
> end of the tip-up canopy to 'hide' it. It would be about 2-3 inches
> wide, overhang the aft window by about a half and inch, and would only
> be attached to the tip up portion. I was thinking that this might also
> prevent leaks between the aft window and the tip up, as well as
> eliminate or reduce wind noise since there is a small gap between the
> two halves.
>
> A friend did this, and it blew off in-flight fairly quickly. As a
> result, he suggests using screws to ensure a permanent attachment.
> Anyone have any recommendations regarding this, or reasons not to use
> the glass at all?
>
> Since the strip would not be attached to the aft window, would air
> pressure or wind try to get underneath it from the back and try to rip
> it off or crack of chunks and pieces?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Bryan Hooks
> RV-7A tip-up, finish kit, slow-build
> Knoxville, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip com antenna |
There should be some discussions in the archive on this. But a quick answer
based on my research before I installed a bent antenna on the bottom of my
plane was that the wing tip concealed antenna works nicely except sometimes
when the antenna is on the opposite side away from where you need to
communicate. This situation could be plane to plane communications (
hearing another plane near you making an announcement) or ATC that you are
required to communicate with when in controlled airspace. I liked the idea
of a concealed antenna, but I did not like the idea of the consequences of
what might happen if I missed a call or could not be heard when making a
broadcast.
Indiana Larry in Evansville, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
----- Original Message -----
From: "DWAIN HARRIS" <DJaerosports(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing tip com antenna
>
> Hey Jim ,My has worked great for the last 7yrs
> Dwain Harris
> RV-6 N164DH
> Tehachapi, Ca
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: AYRES, JIMMY L<mailto:JAYRES(at)entergy.com>
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 11:06 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Wing tip com antenna
>
>
> >
>
> Hey Guys,
>
>
> I am conducting a survey. Does anyone out there flying have a wing tip
> installed com antenna? If so does it work? Well?
>
>
> Thanks for your feedback.
>
>
> Jimmy Ayres
>
> RV7AQB
>
>
>
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>Hey Guys,
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>I am conducting a survey. Does anyone out there flying
> have a wing tip installed com antenna? If so does it work? Well?
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>Thanks for your feedback.
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>Jimmy Ayres
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>RV7AQB
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip-up canopy aft end fiberglass strip |
If I recall, Van's construction manual for the -7 covers this pretty well --
maybe it's just the slider windshield joint thing that they cover, but the
principal is the same, right?
What they DO NOT say, which I believe would be helpful, is that you should
NOT countersink the plexi along the rear bow if you're going to use a targa
strip on a tip-up. (Keep in mind that on the -7 they went to screws/nuts
instead of pop rivets.)
Instead, I personally think it would be better to countersink through the
fiberglass strip -- and a bit of the plexi in the process, but not as much.
In my case, I built the canopy to the plans. If I want to install a targa
strip now, which I do plan on doing someday, then it will most likely cover
the screw heads. Not a huge deal really, but I think it would be better if
the strip were sandwiched in there with the screws. Yeah, I could install
new screws in between existing holes, and you'd never know the difference
from the outside, but that's a little funky imho. I'll probably just lay
the strip up over the bow and the screws will be in there for good (like
most of the rest of the canopy fasteners are anyway).
Next time I'd probably include the strip integrally from the get-go,
countersink the strip, and have the screws hold the strip on. Yes, I would
use epoxy to hold the strip on just like the construction manual describes,
but I think having the screws sandwich it in there would be a little added
assurance.
In any case, I'm just thinking out loud here. In your case, just rough that
plexi up really well before doing the layup. I suspect your friend's
"adhesion issue" was due to not roughing things up enough, or perhaps not
cleaning it well enough before doing the layup. Just food for thought.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tip-up canopy aft end fiberglass strip
>
> There is discussion in the archives on this. Search for targa strip.
>
> It should be built as you describe. Attach with adhesive and use the
> screws
> that hold the canopy glass on the roll over bar. You may need screws that
> are about 1/8" longer than supplied with kit. Lots of tip ups have this
> strip. Carefully done and finished it will enhance the looks of your
> plane
> and be functional for keeping water and wind out. It will also hide any
> unsightly damage or work. I for instance have both corners at the bottom
> with cracks where the canopy glass edge has touched the metal skin while
> closing. The targa strip will hide that.
>
> Indiana Larry in Evansville, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker 65 hours and still
> grinning.........
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>>
>> Searched the archives with no luck so I thought I'd toss this out to
>> everyone -
>>
>> The roll bar on my 7A tip-up is not terrible, but it's not a work of art
>> either. So, I am considering putting a strip of fiberglass over the aft
>> end of the tip-up canopy to 'hide' it. It would be about 2-3 inches
>> wide, overhang the aft window by about a half and inch, and would only
>> be attached to the tip up portion. I was thinking that this might also
>> prevent leaks between the aft window and the tip up, as well as
>> eliminate or reduce wind noise since there is a small gap between the
>> two halves.
>>
>> A friend did this, and it blew off in-flight fairly quickly. As a
>> result, he suggests using screws to ensure a permanent attachment.
>> Anyone have any recommendations regarding this, or reasons not to use
>> the glass at all?
>>
>> Since the strip would not be attached to the aft window, would air
>> pressure or wind try to get underneath it from the back and try to rip
>> it off or crack of chunks and pieces?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Bryan Hooks
>> RV-7A tip-up, finish kit, slow-build
>> Knoxville, TN
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealer on Whelen strobe lights |
> I just received my Whelen strobe lights. They are sealed with some white
> ProSeal like, Sikaflex like substance which is quite rubbery and which
seems
> perfect for preserving wires from chaffing against each other as they come
> out of connectors or pass through grommets. Any of you guys have an idea
as
> to what Whelen might have used ? Or could you recommend a similar product
?
Hi Michele,
It's called potting compound and you can find it at any electronics shop.
Here is a link to a bunch of different ones:
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/832tc.html
We buy it in disposable syringes that fit in a plier like tool that
dispenses the compound. As others have said already, silicone or E6000
might be just as good or better. I guess I vote for silicon since the other
two might be difficult to remove...
Good luck!
Dave,
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Jim,
I tried this is my 6/Hartzel just 2 days ago and found that at 75-80
mph indicated and idle power, there was a big change when I pulled the
prop to coarse pitch, it was actually quite dramatic. Also, if I leave
the prop at cruise setting while landing, the airplane will float, where
if it's all the way in, it just kerplunks on.
Empirical evidence for sure, but there is enough difference to be quite
noticeable well below 1300 rpm. Considering that with an engine out,
I'll probably be gliding at about 100 mph, pulling the prop should be
quite effective.
Dave B.
LessDragProd(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>Hi All,
>
>I believe it takes about 1300 RPM for the governor to have control of the
>propeller.
>I believe you will see the propeller windmilling at around 1000 RPM in low
>pitch.
>So it isn't going to work to try to reduce the RPM with coarse pitch on a
>standard CS propeller.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin Gomez <mlg28(at)cornell.edu> |
The zero thrust measurement that
Richard Dudley
asked about is for drag measurement. Once you've eliminated the thrust (or drag)
of a prop, whatever is left is the drag of the airplane. By timing the rate
of descent and knowing the weight, you can calculate the power required to
fly at that airspeed. Dividing by the airspeed (TAS) gives you the drag at that
airspeed.
Cheers,
Martin
--
Martin Gomez
MLG28 at cornell.edu
http://www.bashingaluminum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Caps Mini-Medco Cylindrical locks for fuel caps |
| From: | "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Caps
The Mooney Miser sells mini circular tumbler lock sets for fuel tank
caps. Norm is his real name. He is the elderly gentleman normally
snoozing on a stool at the Mooney Owners tent or table(depending on
what airplane related show your are at). He also sells wing and tail
trim kits that are STC'ed for everything from Cessna 150's to large
turboprops. He sells these trim kits at a discount to experimental
guys. I am running both of these products on my RV-4 and I am quite
happy with the items........Google for norm or the MAPA (Mooney owners
group) to find Norm.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear view mirrors on the 8 |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
OK I took some real crappy pictures last night and posted em.
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/mirrors/index.htm
Enjoy
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flow matching injector nozzles |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
I recently went through the process of flow matching my injector
nozzles. Thought some of you might find the process interesting. I know
I did.
http://www.mstewart.net/super8
Best
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip-up canopy aft end fiberglass strip |
My method differs from Dan's if you want another idea. I have not built my
targa strip to date -- but my plan is to build it by laying up 4 to 6 layers
of the fiberglass-epoxy strips over UPS tape (release agent) that is in
place covering the plexiglass gap on a closed and locked down canopy.
Remove the epoxy (targa) strip after it cures and finish it to uniform size
by sanding and filling, sanding and filling as needed. After you get it
where you like it, remove 6-8 of the screws that hold the plexiglass on the
rollover bar, then reposition the strip in place and drill using roll over
bar as drill guide. Tape the outline of where the strip goes on the
plexiglass. Remove strip and rough up the plexiglass where the targa strip
will cover. Counter sink the targa strip for your screws and use epoxy, or
proseal and nut&bolt the finished and painted targa strip on the roll over
bar. With the adhesive, only 6-8 bolts should be needed. Make it 8 for
good measure. I like the ability to finish the strip off the plexiglass to
protect the plexi during the sanding process. Also, painting is easier by
painting it off the plane.
Indiana Larry in Evansville, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tip-up canopy aft end fiberglass strip
>
> If I recall, Van's construction manual for the -7 covers this pretty
> well --
> maybe it's just the slider windshield joint thing that they cover, but the
> principal is the same, right?
>
> What they DO NOT say, which I believe would be helpful, is that you should
> NOT countersink the plexi along the rear bow if you're going to use a
> targa
> strip on a tip-up. (Keep in mind that on the -7 they went to screws/nuts
> instead of pop rivets.)
>
> Instead, I personally think it would be better to countersink through the
> fiberglass strip -- and a bit of the plexi in the process, but not as
> much.
>
> In my case, I built the canopy to the plans. If I want to install a targa
> strip now, which I do plan on doing someday, then it will most likely
> cover
> the screw heads. Not a huge deal really, but I think it would be better
> if
> the strip were sandwiched in there with the screws. Yeah, I could install
> new screws in between existing holes, and you'd never know the difference
> from the outside, but that's a little funky imho. I'll probably just lay
> the strip up over the bow and the screws will be in there for good (like
> most of the rest of the canopy fasteners are anyway).
>
> Next time I'd probably include the strip integrally from the get-go,
> countersink the strip, and have the screws hold the strip on. Yes, I
> would
> use epoxy to hold the strip on just like the construction manual
> describes,
> but I think having the screws sandwich it in there would be a little added
> assurance.
>
> In any case, I'm just thinking out loud here. In your case, just rough
> that
> plexi up really well before doing the layup. I suspect your friend's
> "adhesion issue" was due to not roughing things up enough, or perhaps not
> cleaning it well enough before doing the layup. Just food for thought.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>>>
>>> Searched the archives with no luck so I thought I'd toss this out to
>>> everyone -
>>>
>>> The roll bar on my 7A tip-up is not terrible, but it's not a work of art
>>> either. So, I am considering putting a strip of fiberglass over the aft
>>> end of the tip-up canopy to 'hide' it. It would be about 2-3 inches
>>> wide, overhang the aft window by about a half and inch, and would only
>>> be attached to the tip up portion. I was thinking that this might also
>>> prevent leaks between the aft window and the tip up, as well as
>>> eliminate or reduce wind noise since there is a small gap between the
>>> two halves.
>>>
>>> A friend did this, and it blew off in-flight fairly quickly. As a
>>> result, he suggests using screws to ensure a permanent attachment.
>>> Anyone have any recommendations regarding this, or reasons not to use
>>> the glass at all?
>>>
>>> Since the strip would not be attached to the aft window, would air
>>> pressure or wind try to get underneath it from the back and try to rip
>>> it off or crack of chunks and pieces?
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance.
>>>
>>> Bryan Hooks
>>> RV-7A tip-up, finish kit, slow-build
>>> Knoxville, TN
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tip-up canopy aft end fiberglass strip |
| From: | "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com> |
I have a -6 tipup flying since 94. 3 years ago, I got a crack on one
side up thru the first to pop rivets, as Larry described. As Bryan
described, I also wanted the 'cosmetic improvement'.
I layed it up as described, in place on the canopy/airplane. However,
as Dan mentioned, I didn't 'rough it up enough', and at Van's Homecoming
my son inadvertantly popped one side loose. On the next takeoff, it
exited the airframe onto the runway at Aurora (unbeknownst to me).
Someone saw it's exit and turned it in at Van's (yes, they all got a
good laugh when I claimed it ;-).
It was undamaged except for a little paint loss. So, I roughed the
mating surfaces very well and bonded it back on, this time adding 2
screws at each end (very small, countersunk head, with threads tapped
into the frame), and a 3rd screw a few inches up.
I did NOT put screws all the way over, just at each end as described.
It has not come off or loose in 3 years now.
So, rough it very well and maybe use screws at the ends (this is where
it will accidently get grabbed, it may hit the roll bar during closing,
etc.), and you're good to go.
It is a very good addition, cosmetically and otherwise.
Dw
94 RV-6 910hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell" <caldwel(at)ictransnet.com> |
Does anyone have a source for a small quanty of CORTEC VPCI-326? Enough
for one engine.
caldwel(at)ictransnet.com
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flow matching injector nozzles |
Hey you were moaning about the cost ($25 each)....Have you priced GAMI
injectors that do exactly the same thing ($100 each or is it $200?)
>
>
>I recently went through the process of flow matching my injector
>nozzles. Thought some of you might find the process interesting. I know
>I did.
>
>http://www.mstewart.net/super8
>
>
>Best
>
>Mike
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <danlist(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
Hi everyone. I'm just getting started on an RV-10 project and
practiced riveting a bit on scrap material first last night. And
I've run into a couple of problems/questions that I'm sure at least
some of you have had, but I couldn't find anything in a search of the
archives.
First question - riveting two dimpled surfaces together:
I've seen all kinds of resources saying that a rivet is set properly
if the shop head is at least 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet and
has a height of 0.5 times the diameter. That's fine and
straightforward when riveting two flat (non-dimpled) pieces. But
when measuring the shop head height formed against the back side of a
dimpled piece, is the shop height measured as the amount the back of
the rivet extends from the maximum height of the dimple, or from the
amount the rivet extends from the non-dimpled surface? (not sure if
I'm explaining this clearly, but hopefully you can get what I mean)
If the shop head height is measured from the surrounding non-dimpled
surface, I suspect that it may not be thick enough since some of the
rivet that would normally be formed in a shop head on flat surfaces
would be within the dimple itself and wouldn't contribute to the
head. If it's measured from the "crown" of the dimple, it would seem
as though the rivet would need to be a bit longer (by an amount equal
to the depth of the dimple) to form the same size of shop head as if
it were on undimpled material. But I haven't seen any references in
the reading I've done indicating that the rivets made to join two
dimpled surfaces should be longer than if the shop head is to form on
an undimpled surface.
Second question - countersinking to receive a dimpled surface:
I read that when countersinking to receive a dimpled surface, it
should be drilled about 0.005" deeper than if the countersink was to
just receive the head of a flush rivet, so that the dimple will fit
properly into the countersink. But in the test pieces I was trying
to join, I had to drill substantially deeper than this so that the
dimple would fit within the countersink to allow the pieces to lay
flush against each other. And I don't want to have "loose" holes by
drilling the countersink deeper than necessary. It seemed to be due
to the underside of the dimple (the part formed by the female die)
starting out with a larger diameter than the starting diameter of the
countersunk hole when the hole was drilled to 0.005" deeper than
required to receive the head of the flush rivet. And I'm pretty sure
that I used the same size countersink bit as dimple die - of course,
I could have made a mistake, but the pilot/guide of both the
countersink bit and dimple die fit perfectly into the hole that I had
drilled. Does anyone have an idea what I'm doing wrong? Am I
dimpling too deep or something? I was under the impression that I
had to press the dimple die so that the flat surface of the die was
flush with the flat surface of the surrounding metal, but I presume
that if I dimple less it may fit within the countersink better. In
either case, a flush rivet seems to fit very nicely on the surface of
the dimple as it is, and if I dimple less, it may protrude a bit out.
I've also found that even when riveting flat sheets together, the
range of the shop head being hit or squeezed enough to have a large
enough diameter while not too much that it ends up too thin is very
small - smaller than I anticipated. I'm sure I'll get used to
exactly the right amount with practice, but does anyone else find it
to be this way? In any case, I'm glad that I decided to try
practicing a bit first before getting into the real construction.
And lastly, I've read in the archives that some people prefer to
drill a hole slightly smaller than required when dimpling a skin
(using a #41 instead of #40, for example), since the hole will expand
slightly while dimpling. Is this just being overzealous, or is there
a good case to be made for this? I'm thinking that if the hole were
slightly smaller, the rivet would expand a bit less while filling the
hole, leaving a bit more material for the shop head, making the
tolerances for setting it just the right amount a bit less fine.
Any advice that anyone can provide to a beginner like myself?
Thanks! Dan
--
Syzygy Research & Technology
Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
> when measuring the shop head height formed against the back side of a
> dimpled piece, is the shop height measured as the amount the back of
> the rivet extends from the maximum height of the dimple, or from the
> amount the rivet extends from the non-dimpled surface? (not sure if
Measure the shop head height *not including* the height of the dimple. Pick
up a copy of "Aircraft Sheet Metal." Great book!
Also keep in mind that there is a *range* of acceptable dimensions for rivet
heads. http://images.rvproject.com/MIL-R-47196A_MI.pdf Take a peek at that
Mil-Spec for reference.
> drilled. Does anyone have an idea what I'm doing wrong? Am I
> dimpling too deep or something? I was under the impression that I
You're not doing anything wrong. Just countersink deep enough to get a good
FIT, without "bottoming out" through the material. Kitplanes magazine is
running a series called "Build Your Skills," and in the 4th and 5th
installments it goes into gory detail about dimpling and countersinking.
> had to press the dimple die so that the flat surface of the die was
> flush with the flat surface of the surrounding metal, but I presume
> that if I dimple less it may fit within the countersink better. In
Don't dimple "less." Whack the crap out of it and get yourself a nice crisp
dimple.
Also consider taking a SportAir "RV Assembly" workshop or a weekend workshop
from somebody like Tom Emery, or at least get some help from your EAA
Chapter and/or other RV builders nearby. It sounds like you have basic
technique questions and haven't had much hands-on help. Please don't take
that the wrong way, I'm just suggesting that a little help up front will
save you lots of headaches down the road.
> I've also found that even when riveting flat sheets together, the
> range of the shop head being hit or squeezed enough to have a large
> enough diameter while not too much that it ends up too thin is very
> small - smaller than I anticipated. I'm sure I'll get used to
> exactly the right amount with practice, but does anyone else find it
> to be this way? In any case, I'm glad that I decided to try
> practicing a bit first before getting into the real construction.
Again, reference that Mil-Spec link above. Sometimes you just have to
"average" it out. There is a range of acceptable dimensions, and if I
recall, the height dimension varies based on tension or shear (I could be
mistaken about that).
> And lastly, I've read in the archives that some people prefer to
> drill a hole slightly smaller than required when dimpling a skin
> (using a #41 instead of #40, for example), since the hole will expand
> slightly while dimpling. Is this just being overzealous, or is there
> a good case to be made for this? I'm thinking that if the hole were
I'm sure people will argue one way or the other, but why not do what the kit
manufacturer recommends, which is to use a #40 drill? Keep it simple.
Don't overthink this stuff. You're building a light airplane, not the space
shuttle or a Swiss watch. ;-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
Dan,
1) Measure from the top of the dimple. The rivet doesn't need to be
longer. On the RV-10 Vans does a pretty decent job of calling out the
right size rivets.
2) Countersink deep enough that the dimple sits flush in the
countersink after you rivet it. It's probably going to be more than .005".
3) With practice you'll be able to look at them and tell if they're
good. I've been told that it's better to have them a bit flat than
under-driven.
4) I don't have experience with drilling a smaller hole, but there are
thousands of RV's flying who's builders didn't drill undersize holes, so
I doubt it's necessary.
Take Dan Checkoway's advice and get with someone who's currently
building for a few hours or take a class. You'll learn a lot.
PJ
40032
Dan Charrois wrote:
>
>Hi everyone. I'm just getting started on an RV-10 project and
>practiced riveting a bit on scrap material first last night. And
>I've run into a couple of problems/questions that I'm sure at least
>some of you have had, but I couldn't find anything in a search of the
>archives.
>
>First question - riveting two dimpled surfaces together:
>I've seen all kinds of resources saying that a rivet is set properly
>if the shop head is at least 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet and
>has a height of 0.5 times the diameter. That's fine and
>straightforward when riveting two flat (non-dimpled) pieces. But
>when measuring the shop head height formed against the back side of a
>dimpled piece, is the shop height measured as the amount the back of
>the rivet extends from the maximum height of the dimple, or from the
>amount the rivet extends from the non-dimpled surface? (not sure if
>I'm explaining this clearly, but hopefully you can get what I mean)
>If the shop head height is measured from the surrounding non-dimpled
>surface, I suspect that it may not be thick enough since some of the
>rivet that would normally be formed in a shop head on flat surfaces
>would be within the dimple itself and wouldn't contribute to the
>head. If it's measured from the "crown" of the dimple, it would seem
>as though the rivet would need to be a bit longer (by an amount equal
>to the depth of the dimple) to form the same size of shop head as if
>it were on undimpled material. But I haven't seen any references in
>the reading I've done indicating that the rivets made to join two
>dimpled surfaces should be longer than if the shop head is to form on
>an undimpled surface.
>
>Second question - countersinking to receive a dimpled surface:
>I read that when countersinking to receive a dimpled surface, it
>should be drilled about 0.005" deeper than if the countersink was to
>just receive the head of a flush rivet, so that the dimple will fit
>properly into the countersink. But in the test pieces I was trying
>to join, I had to drill substantially deeper than this so that the
>dimple would fit within the countersink to allow the pieces to lay
>flush against each other. And I don't want to have "loose" holes by
>drilling the countersink deeper than necessary. It seemed to be due
>to the underside of the dimple (the part formed by the female die)
>starting out with a larger diameter than the starting diameter of the
>countersunk hole when the hole was drilled to 0.005" deeper than
>required to receive the head of the flush rivet. And I'm pretty sure
>that I used the same size countersink bit as dimple die - of course,
>I could have made a mistake, but the pilot/guide of both the
>countersink bit and dimple die fit perfectly into the hole that I had
>drilled. Does anyone have an idea what I'm doing wrong? Am I
>dimpling too deep or something? I was under the impression that I
>had to press the dimple die so that the flat surface of the die was
>flush with the flat surface of the surrounding metal, but I presume
>that if I dimple less it may fit within the countersink better. In
>either case, a flush rivet seems to fit very nicely on the surface of
>the dimple as it is, and if I dimple less, it may protrude a bit out.
>
>I've also found that even when riveting flat sheets together, the
>range of the shop head being hit or squeezed enough to have a large
>enough diameter while not too much that it ends up too thin is very
>small - smaller than I anticipated. I'm sure I'll get used to
>exactly the right amount with practice, but does anyone else find it
>to be this way? In any case, I'm glad that I decided to try
>practicing a bit first before getting into the real construction.
>
>And lastly, I've read in the archives that some people prefer to
>drill a hole slightly smaller than required when dimpling a skin
>(using a #41 instead of #40, for example), since the hole will expand
>slightly while dimpling. Is this just being overzealous, or is there
>a good case to be made for this? I'm thinking that if the hole were
>slightly smaller, the rivet would expand a bit less while filling the
>hole, leaving a bit more material for the shop head, making the
>tolerances for setting it just the right amount a bit less fine.
>
>Any advice that anyone can provide to a beginner like myself?
>
>Thanks! Dan
>--
>Syzygy Research & Technology
>Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
>Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
Be careful here. With a quality dimpling die, the under side of a
dimpled hole is the same size as the top. You can see this when you put
2 dimpled sheets together - they fit just fine. However, when fitting
the dimpled sheet into a countersunk piece you can have a problem with
fit because the edge of the countersunk hole is sharp and the
corresponding point on the bottom of the dimple is not, (quality "spring
back" dies may give a sharper transition than cheap dies) especially if
you didn't use enough force when forming the dimple. Also, dimpling can
distort the sheet of aluminum making it look like the dimple/countersink
is a poor fit. It's very easy to make the countersunk hole too big,
trying to compensate for this miss fit and then you've got a mess.
In theory at least, the countersunk hole should fit the rivet. Don't
arbitrarily make it bigger, figure out why it doesn't fit and fix it
Dave Bristol, -6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Dan Charrois wrote:
>
>
>Second question - countersinking to receive a dimpled surface:
>I read that when countersinking to receive a dimpled surface, it
>should be drilled about 0.005" deeper than if the countersink was to
>just receive the head of a flush rivet, so that the dimple will fit
>properly into the countersink. But in the test pieces I was trying
>to join, I had to drill substantially deeper than this so that the
>dimple would fit within the countersink to allow the pieces to lay
>flush against each other.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
On 18:57:18 2005-10-06 "D.Bristol" wrote:
> Be careful here. With a quality dimpling die, the under side of a
> dimpled hole is the same size as the top. You can see this when you
> put 2 dimpled sheets together - they fit just fine. However, when
> fitting the dimpled sheet into a countersunk piece you can have a
> problem with fit because the edge of the countersunk hole is sharp
> and the corresponding point on the bottom of the dimple is not,
> (quality "spring back" dies may give a sharper transition than cheap
> dies) especially if you didn't use enough force when forming the
> dimple.
The engineer in me must speak up: A countersunk hole will always have a
sharp transition at the top corner, unless you remove it. A dimpled piece
of aluminum will always have a rounded (or filleted) corner in the
corresponding location. This means you will end up with one of two
situations:
One, you can countersink until the skin sits flat, in which case there will
be an air gap under the dimpled skin in the "cone" of the countersink. You
don't want this. It's not as strong a joint, and can lead to corrosion in
the cavities, well beyond where you can see it happening.
Two, you can countersink to fit the rivet, in which case the skin will
*not* sit flat in the countersink. This is not a problem, if your dimple
is good. When you drive the rivet it will drive that rounded corner into a
sharp one and it will all become flush. This is what you want.
So: Countersink only far enough to fit the head of the rivet. There's no
reason to go further
As for drilling a smaller hole so everything is "tighter", the engineer in
me says you will end up with a smaller diameter of "meat" in the hole once
the rivet is driven. This means that every rivet joint will be slightly
less strong than it was designed to be. Which means your airplane is
slightly less strong than it was designed to be. Why would you want that?
Stop second-guessing the designer.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D Crowe" <rv8a(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
Hi everyone. I'm just getting started on an RV-10 project and
practiced riveting a bit on scrap material first last night. And
I've run into a couple of problems/questions that I'm sure at least
some of you have had, but I couldn't find anything in a search of the
archives.
And lastly, I've read in the archives that some people prefer to
drill a hole slightly smaller than required when dimpling a skin
(using a #41 instead of #40, for example), since the hole will expand
slightly while dimpling. Is this just being overzealous, or is there
a good case to be made for this? I'm thinking that if the hole were
slightly smaller, the rivet would expand a bit less while filling the
hole, leaving a bit more material for the shop head, making the
tolerances for setting it just the right amount a bit less fine.
Any advice that anyone can provide to a beginner like myself?
Thanks! Dan
--
Syzygy Research & Technology
Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
Phone: 780-961-2213
Dan,
I have been researching this subject myself. I would suggest you look at
this link.
http://www.tech.purdue.edu/at/courses/at308/Technical_Links/MMPDS/OptionsMen
u.pdf
Look at the introduction to see the approval for use. Chapter 8 covers solid
rivets. Look at Table 8.1.2(a) page 8-12 It shows a 41 bit as the standard
rivet-drill size for a 3/32 rivet.
Mike Crowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
From another E-mail list....
Two days ago I got around to doing something that I had planned last
year -- actual pull tests on riveted aluminum coupons to see how
critical it is to drive rivets to the correct height. All of us
building or with completed RVs (as will those those planning on it in
the future) have had to wonder which imperfect rivets to drill out and
which are OK. The answer is obvious when there is a severe cosmetic
problem, but when strength is at issue, how much does a slightly under
or overdriven rivet affect strength? How much does a grossly under or
overdriven rivet affect it? Frankly, I had made the decision that the
risk of damage from drilling out a flush rivet is greater than the
benefit of doing so, unless an obvious cosmetic defect or really bad
rivet is at issue. Now I have some hard data to go by.
What I did was to make up 10 test coupons. Each of these consisted of
two pieces of .032 2024-T3 sheet 1.5 inches wide and 4 inches long.
These two pieces were overlapped by 1.5 inches and riveted together with
two parallel rows of 3 rivets each. Of the 10 total coupons, five
involved the use of universal head AN 470 AD3 rivets and the other 5
used AN 426 AD3 flush rivets. In the latter case, both pieces of
aluminum were dimpled at each rivet location, as is routinely done in
Van's airplanes. In fact, the coupon construction is similar to the
double rivet line where the lower outboard wing skin overlaps the lower
inboard wing skin. This joint is loaded in tension normally for
positive G flight and gave me the idea to mimic it for the pull tests.
Before getting into the results, let me ask you a question. Please
think about the answer before proceeding. Just how many pounds of force
do you think it would take to destroy one of the sheets used in making
up the coupons? Remember this is .032, 2024-T3 sheet 4 inches long and
1.5 inches wide with no holes or rivets in it. Think about grabbing and
suspending it at one end with some sort of clamp across the entire 1.5
inch width and then hanging weights on the other end from another clamp.
How much weight would it take to break this .032 inch thick sheet?
Would a 100 pound set of barbells do it? A 500 pound set? A 1200 pound
small car? A gross weight RV8 at 1800 pounds? A gross weight Grumman
Tiger at 2400 pounds? More than that? Come up with some sort of gut
feel before proceeding. I was surprised by the answer. You may or may
not be, depending on your knowledge in this area.
Since some of you will cheat and read on, I'll hold the answer for a
moment! Each of the 5 test coupons, both with the universal head rivets
and the flush head rivets, was riveted to a different degree. One was
grossly under driven, one was slightly under driven, one was correct per
the rivet gauge, one was slightly over driven and the last was grossly
over driven. The slightly under driven and slightly over driven rivets
were such that you would probably need a rivet gauge to detect them -- I
did this because I suspect that most of the rivets in our planes fall
into this category. The grossly over and under driven rivets were
really gross. The over driven were squashed nearly flat and the under
driven were barely set at all. I did this to see just how poorly a
joint make of this sort of gross error would hold up. You would easily
see these and know there was a problem immediately. You'll find the
results interesting.........
The idea was to put each coupon in a pull test machine and expose the
riveted joint to a slowly increasing force until it yielded. This was
done at a structural test lab in Paramount (Southern CA city) that works
mostly with civil engineering construction materials. A stress/strain
graph was running and we monitored it to see the first indication of
joint failure as indicated by a decrease in force required as the coupon
stretched, cracked, broke in two, sheared or tipped rivets, etc. I was
interested in the force required to cause the initial failure, as well
as the nature and appearance of that initial failure; ie, what actually
happened first. We agreed to stop the machine at the incipient
indication of failure, thus preserving the coupon in its early failure
state without destroying the joint completely. I was very curious as to
how things would fail and really had no idea other than the thought that
the dimpled, flush riveted joint would probably be stronger than the
undimpled one with the 470 universal head rivets. In contrast, one of
the owners of the lab came in to watch and thought the opposite would be
true. In his 50 years in the business, he had never seen this test
done. What do you think would hold best?
That said, here is the answer to my prior question. A force of 2300
pounds was required to break the test material with no rivets or holes
in it. It failed catastrophically shortly after some initial stretching
was noted. I had no idea that a cross section of this 2024 T3 sheet,
.032 inches thick and 1.5 inches wide, would sustain anywhere near that
load. Frankly, I was surprised when it passed 1000 pounds and still
going strong.
Before showing you the numbers, I will give a brief summary of them:
1. The dimpled, flush riveted construction was stronger, but not by as
much as I had thought. However, and this is really important, initial
failure of the dimpled construction was generally not catastrophic and
occurred as rivet tipping and rivet head distortion. In contrast,
initial failure of the AN 470 undimpled construction was generally
catastrophic by rivet shear. I am really happy Van uses the flush
riveted, double dimpled joints throughout most of the airplane!
2. Slightly under driving or slightly over driving a rivet makes an
observable and thus measurable difference in the joint strength.
3. Slightly over driving is stronger than slightly under driving and
results (in my opinion) in an insignificant difference in strength as
compared to properly driven rivets.
4. In the one test of slightly over driven AN 470 rivets, the joint was
actually stronger than with properly driven rivets. This may have just
been the luck of the draw for this single sample, so I wouldn't put any
real faith in it.
5. A joint made of grossly over driven rivets is stronger joint than a
joint make of grossly under driven ones.
6. A grossly under driven AN 470 joint is much weaker than a grossly
under driven AN 426 joint.
7. No joint was as strong as the parent material itself.
To summarize the summary, try for properly driven rivets but realize
that minor over driving is preferable to minor under driving and results
in nearly the same strength as does the condition of properly driven
rivets.
AN 426 AD 3 Table
Condition Force at failure Nature of failure
Gross under 1650 Rivet tipping, head distortion
Slight under 1775 Same
Correct 2025 Same
Slight over 1975 Same
Gross over 1825 Sheet tear at rivet line
AN 470 AD 3 Table
Gross under 1100 Rivet tip plus one sheared rivet
Slight under 1600 5 sheared rivets!
Correct 1625 6 sheared rivets!
Slight over 1750 6 sheared rivets!
Gross over 1500 Rivet tip plus sheet tear at
rivet line
Anyway, those are some real numbers for an area we have undoubtedly
thought about at one time or another. My opinions, FWIW: I think an
occasional rivet that is slightly under driven or slightly over driven
is utterly no big deal and can safely be ignored. We all have some of
these flying in formation in our airplanes. A line of them would be
another matter. Even an occasional grossly over driven rivet is
probably OK, especially if getting rid of it could cause damage. And if
underdriven too much, just whack it again. Hope you learned something
from this. I certainly did.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip com antenna |
For those who have not had good experiences with the wingtip comm antennas,
please describe how you had the antenna mounted in the wingtip. I have had
people who have had these antennas tell me they work great, of those that
did they had the radiating element attached to the top surface of the
wingtip to maximize the vertical component of the antenna. In other words
the ground portion was attached to the bottom of the wingtip and the antenna
was bent so that the radiating element was glassed to the top surface of the
wingtip along its edge.
With that said...
I have a belly mounted antenna that works well on my -6, and I have borrowed
a MFJ antenna analyzer to check it. VSWR of the belly mounted antenna was
typically 1.2-1.8 best as I can remember across the frequency range. The
problem with a good antenna is that you pick up everybody and their mother
transmitting within a three state radius so sometimes the chatter can get
overwhelming especially if you only care about the aircraft that are within
a few miles of you. So to have a 50 mile radius of communications is
acceptable to me, the only time you really ever use that sort of range or
beyond is to chit-chat with your buddies on the other side of the state.
There is one RV-8 that I occasionnally fly with that whenever I get up
close, we can't talk to each other. If I back out 20 ft then everything is
fine. I suspect it has to do with the geometry in which the signals radiate
between our two airplanes. My point being is there is no perfect location
for an antenna on an RV for all circumstances.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying, F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
Very good report Scott! This answers some good questions that I never
had answers for before. Thanks!
Dave
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
> From another E-mail list....
>
>
>Two days ago I got around to doing something that I had planned last
>year -- actual pull tests on riveted aluminum coupons to see how
>critical it is to drive rivets to the correct height. All of us
>building or with completed RVs (as will those those planning on it in
>the future) have had to wonder which imperfect rivets to drill out and
>which are OK. The answer is obvious when there is a severe cosmetic
>problem, but when strength is at issue, how much does a slightly under
>or overdriven rivet affect strength? How much does a grossly under or
>overdriven rivet affect it? Frankly, I had made the decision that the
>risk of damage from drilling out a flush rivet is greater than the
>benefit of doing so, unless an obvious cosmetic defect or really bad
>rivet is at issue. Now I have some hard data to go by.
>
>
>What I did was to make up 10 test coupons. Each of these consisted of
>two pieces of .032 2024-T3 sheet 1.5 inches wide and 4 inches long.
>These two pieces were overlapped by 1.5 inches and riveted together with
>two parallel rows of 3 rivets each. Of the 10 total coupons, five
>involved the use of universal head AN 470 AD3 rivets and the other 5
>used AN 426 AD3 flush rivets. In the latter case, both pieces of
>aluminum were dimpled at each rivet location, as is routinely done in
>Van's airplanes. In fact, the coupon construction is similar to the
>double rivet line where the lower outboard wing skin overlaps the lower
>inboard wing skin. This joint is loaded in tension normally for
>positive G flight and gave me the idea to mimic it for the pull tests.
>
>
>Before getting into the results, let me ask you a question. Please
>think about the answer before proceeding. Just how many pounds of force
>do you think it would take to destroy one of the sheets used in making
>up the coupons? Remember this is .032, 2024-T3 sheet 4 inches long and
>1.5 inches wide with no holes or rivets in it. Think about grabbing and
>suspending it at one end with some sort of clamp across the entire 1.5
>inch width and then hanging weights on the other end from another clamp.
>How much weight would it take to break this .032 inch thick sheet?
>Would a 100 pound set of barbells do it? A 500 pound set? A 1200 pound
>small car? A gross weight RV8 at 1800 pounds? A gross weight Grumman
>Tiger at 2400 pounds? More than that? Come up with some sort of gut
>feel before proceeding. I was surprised by the answer. You may or may
>not be, depending on your knowledge in this area.
>
>
>Since some of you will cheat and read on, I'll hold the answer for a
>moment! Each of the 5 test coupons, both with the universal head rivets
>and the flush head rivets, was riveted to a different degree. One was
>grossly under driven, one was slightly under driven, one was correct per
>the rivet gauge, one was slightly over driven and the last was grossly
>over driven. The slightly under driven and slightly over driven rivets
>were such that you would probably need a rivet gauge to detect them -- I
>did this because I suspect that most of the rivets in our planes fall
>into this category. The grossly over and under driven rivets were
>really gross. The over driven were squashed nearly flat and the under
>driven were barely set at all. I did this to see just how poorly a
>joint make of this sort of gross error would hold up. You would easily
>see these and know there was a problem immediately. You'll find the
>results interesting.........
>
>
>The idea was to put each coupon in a pull test machine and expose the
>riveted joint to a slowly increasing force until it yielded. This was
>done at a structural test lab in Paramount (Southern CA city) that works
>mostly with civil engineering construction materials. A stress/strain
>graph was running and we monitored it to see the first indication of
>joint failure as indicated by a decrease in force required as the coupon
>stretched, cracked, broke in two, sheared or tipped rivets, etc. I was
>interested in the force required to cause the initial failure, as well
>as the nature and appearance of that initial failure; ie, what actually
>happened first. We agreed to stop the machine at the incipient
>indication of failure, thus preserving the coupon in its early failure
>state without destroying the joint completely. I was very curious as to
>how things would fail and really had no idea other than the thought that
>the dimpled, flush riveted joint would probably be stronger than the
>undimpled one with the 470 universal head rivets. In contrast, one of
>the owners of the lab came in to watch and thought the opposite would be
>true. In his 50 years in the business, he had never seen this test
>done. What do you think would hold best?
>
>
>That said, here is the answer to my prior question. A force of 2300
>pounds was required to break the test material with no rivets or holes
>in it. It failed catastrophically shortly after some initial stretching
>was noted. I had no idea that a cross section of this 2024 T3 sheet,
>.032 inches thick and 1.5 inches wide, would sustain anywhere near that
>load. Frankly, I was surprised when it passed 1000 pounds and still
>going strong.
>
>
>Before showing you the numbers, I will give a brief summary of them:
>
>
>1. The dimpled, flush riveted construction was stronger, but not by as
>much as I had thought. However, and this is really important, initial
>failure of the dimpled construction was generally not catastrophic and
>occurred as rivet tipping and rivet head distortion. In contrast,
>initial failure of the AN 470 undimpled construction was generally
>catastrophic by rivet shear. I am really happy Van uses the flush
>riveted, double dimpled joints throughout most of the airplane!
>
>
>2. Slightly under driving or slightly over driving a rivet makes an
>observable and thus measurable difference in the joint strength.
>
>
>3. Slightly over driving is stronger than slightly under driving and
>results (in my opinion) in an insignificant difference in strength as
>compared to properly driven rivets.
>
>
>4. In the one test of slightly over driven AN 470 rivets, the joint was
>actually stronger than with properly driven rivets. This may have just
>been the luck of the draw for this single sample, so I wouldn't put any
>real faith in it.
>
>
>5. A joint made of grossly over driven rivets is stronger joint than a
>joint make of grossly under driven ones.
>
>
>6. A grossly under driven AN 470 joint is much weaker than a grossly
>under driven AN 426 joint.
>
>
>7. No joint was as strong as the parent material itself.
>
>
>To summarize the summary, try for properly driven rivets but realize
>that minor over driving is preferable to minor under driving and results
>in nearly the same strength as does the condition of properly driven
>rivets.
>
>
>AN 426 AD 3 Table
>
>
>Condition Force at failure Nature of failure
>
>
>Gross under 1650 Rivet tipping, head distortion
>
>Slight under 1775 Same
>
>Correct 2025 Same
>
>Slight over 1975 Same
>
>Gross over 1825 Sheet tear at rivet line
>
>
>AN 470 AD 3 Table
>
>
>Gross under 1100 Rivet tip plus one sheared rivet
>
>Slight under 1600 5 sheared rivets!
>
>Correct 1625 6 sheared rivets!
>
>Slight over 1750 6 sheared rivets!
>
>Gross over 1500 Rivet tip plus sheet tear at
>
>rivet line
>
>
>Anyway, those are some real numbers for an area we have undoubtedly
>thought about at one time or another. My opinions, FWIW: I think an
>occasional rivet that is slightly under driven or slightly over driven
>is utterly no big deal and can safely be ignored. We all have some of
>these flying in formation in our airplanes. A line of them would be
>another matter. Even an occasional grossly over driven rivet is
>probably OK, especially if getting rid of it could cause damage. And if
>underdriven too much, just whack it again. Hope you learned something
>from this. I certainly did.
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Cary" <williamc(at)RV9Builder.com> |
| Subject: | Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
Great INFO Scott !!
Now I won't feel so bad about the few rivets I left in place that weren't
just right. Sometimes one has to weigh the potential for making things worse
against leaving the non-perfect rivet there. This info just confirms my
building decisions.
Thanks Again
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
> Remind me tomorrow to put an AN426AD3-x rivet in my female dimple die. I
> honestly haven't even tried that yet...but I intend to! I wonder if the
> rivet will sit flush or sit low. My $.02 bet is that it will sit low.
The rivet sets low in a regular die. Now the question is how to get the
rivet back out of the die... :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
Ha! At least you didn't make my mistake: I used a female die and a
rivet in order to dimple an area I couldn't fit the male die into (can't
remember where it was right now). The rivet was too long for the hole
in the female die and when I hit it, the rivet expanded in the die and
got stuck. Getting it out was not much fun.
PJ
40032
David Burton wrote:
>
>
>
>>Remind me tomorrow to put an AN426AD3-x rivet in my female dimple die. I
>>honestly haven't even tried that yet...but I intend to! I wonder if the
>>rivet will sit flush or sit low. My $.02 bet is that it will sit low.
>>
>>
>
>
>The rivet sets low in a regular die. Now the question is how to get the
>rivet back out of the die... :-)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
This will be the somewhat the same for countersinking. You want a very slight...
ever so slight recess of the rivet head on the 426 rivet. You should just see
a faint shiny hair thin part of the countersink and the rivet should be basically
flush.
Darrell
David Burton wrote:
> Remind me tomorrow to put an AN426AD3-x rivet in my female dimple die. I
> honestly haven't even tried that yet...but I intend to! I wonder if the
> rivet will sit flush or sit low. My $.02 bet is that it will sit low.
The rivet sets low in a regular die. Now the question is how to get the
rivet back out of the die... :-)
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip com antenna |
You'll want more than 50 miles of range if you ever call flight service for wx
at your destination.
In close formation, you are experiencing receiver front-end overload, which has
everything to do with near-field signal strength and little to do with exact
antenna location, save for its distance from the other ship's antenna.
If you want just 50 miles' range, try lopping the antenna off at 6 or 8 inches.
The high swr will fold back your radio's power output, and you'll reduce aerodynamic
drag to boot. Kidding, of course.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing tip com antenna
For those who have not had good experiences with the wingtip comm antennas,
please describe how you had the antenna mounted in the wingtip. I have had
people who have had these antennas tell me they work great, of those that
did they had the radiating element attached to the top surface of the
wingtip to maximize the vertical component of the antenna. In other words
the ground portion was attached to the bottom of the wingtip and the antenna
was bent so that the radiating element was glassed to the top surface of the
wingtip along its edge.
With that said...
I have a belly mounted antenna that works well on my -6, and I have borrowed
a MFJ antenna analyzer to check it. VSWR of the belly mounted antenna was
typically 1.2-1.8 best as I can remember across the frequency range. The
problem with a good antenna is that you pick up everybody and their mother
transmitting within a three state radius so sometimes the chatter can get
overwhelming especially if you only care about the aircraft that are within
a few miles of you. So to have a 50 mile radius of communications is
acceptable to me, the only time you really ever use that sort of range or
beyond is to chit-chat with your buddies on the other side of the state.
There is one RV-8 that I occasionnally fly with that whenever I get up
close, we can't talk to each other. If I back out 20 ft then everything is
fine. I suspect it has to do with the geometry in which the signals radiate
between our two airplanes. My point being is there is no perfect location
for an antenna on an RV for all circumstances.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying, F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip com antenna |
On 10/7/05, sportav8r(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> You'll want more than 50 miles of range if you ever call flight service
> for wx at your destination.
I've had mixed luck getting FSS or flightwatch even with a good antenna.
If you want just 50 miles' range, try lopping the antenna off at 6 or 8
> inches. The high swr will fold back your radio's power output, and you'll
> reduce aerodynamic drag to boot. Kidding, of course.
>
I just turn the dang radio off! :)
So...how was your antenna installed; was it on the bottom surface only?
Regards,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall ?????????? |
Hi to all
I am at that stage in the project where I need to start formulating plans
for fire wall info. Things to contemplate, gotches to watch out for, and the
equipment needs. I will be hanging an IO 360 fuel injected, Pmags, CS
prop......................I am also considering (99% for sure) dual oil
coolers, horizontal sump........it is real out in SW Utah Desert Country.
Also the need for a gascolater considering I will have fuel
injection???????? Your help and info will be greatly appreciated.
TIA
Frank @ SGU and SLC 7A Fuse about to be rolled.....Finish kit will arrive
next week
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
Scott
Thanks for the valuable info. I would be interested in the clinched rivet
senerio. Also I would think that a head that was round and to spec but
slightly tiped would pretty much mimic your results. At any rate
thanks.....I can now breath a little more easy about some of my more
interesting buck / shot / driven RIVETS. Plus I belive that this airplane is
way over enginneered and probably has 25% more rivets than really needed .
JUST a GUESS
Frank @ SGU and SLC
>From: Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces
>Date: Fri, 07 Oct 2005 08:56:04 -0700
>
>
>Very good report Scott! This answers some good questions that I never
>had answers for before. Thanks!
>
>Dave
>
>Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> > From another E-mail list....
> >
> >
> >Two days ago I got around to doing something that I had planned last
> >year -- actual pull tests on riveted aluminum coupons to see how
> >critical it is to drive rivets to the correct height. All of us
> >building or with completed RVs (as will those those planning on it in
> >the future) have had to wonder which imperfect rivets to drill out and
> >which are OK. The answer is obvious when there is a severe cosmetic
> >problem, but when strength is at issue, how much does a slightly under
> >or overdriven rivet affect strength? How much does a grossly under or
> >overdriven rivet affect it? Frankly, I had made the decision that the
> >risk of damage from drilling out a flush rivet is greater than the
> >benefit of doing so, unless an obvious cosmetic defect or really bad
> >rivet is at issue. Now I have some hard data to go by.
> >
> >
> >What I did was to make up 10 test coupons. Each of these consisted of
> >two pieces of .032 2024-T3 sheet 1.5 inches wide and 4 inches long.
> >These two pieces were overlapped by 1.5 inches and riveted together with
> >two parallel rows of 3 rivets each. Of the 10 total coupons, five
> >involved the use of universal head AN 470 AD3 rivets and the other 5
> >used AN 426 AD3 flush rivets. In the latter case, both pieces of
> >aluminum were dimpled at each rivet location, as is routinely done in
> >Van's airplanes. In fact, the coupon construction is similar to the
> >double rivet line where the lower outboard wing skin overlaps the lower
> >inboard wing skin. This joint is loaded in tension normally for
> >positive G flight and gave me the idea to mimic it for the pull tests.
> >
> >
> >Before getting into the results, let me ask you a question. Please
> >think about the answer before proceeding. Just how many pounds of force
> >do you think it would take to destroy one of the sheets used in making
> >up the coupons? Remember this is .032, 2024-T3 sheet 4 inches long and
> >1.5 inches wide with no holes or rivets in it. Think about grabbing and
> >suspending it at one end with some sort of clamp across the entire 1.5
> >inch width and then hanging weights on the other end from another clamp.
> >How much weight would it take to break this .032 inch thick sheet?
> >Would a 100 pound set of barbells do it? A 500 pound set? A 1200 pound
> >small car? A gross weight RV8 at 1800 pounds? A gross weight Grumman
> >Tiger at 2400 pounds? More than that? Come up with some sort of gut
> >feel before proceeding. I was surprised by the answer. You may or may
> >not be, depending on your knowledge in this area.
> >
> >
> >Since some of you will cheat and read on, I'll hold the answer for a
> >moment! Each of the 5 test coupons, both with the universal head rivets
> >and the flush head rivets, was riveted to a different degree. One was
> >grossly under driven, one was slightly under driven, one was correct per
> >the rivet gauge, one was slightly over driven and the last was grossly
> >over driven. The slightly under driven and slightly over driven rivets
> >were such that you would probably need a rivet gauge to detect them -- I
> >did this because I suspect that most of the rivets in our planes fall
> >into this category. The grossly over and under driven rivets were
> >really gross. The over driven were squashed nearly flat and the under
> >driven were barely set at all. I did this to see just how poorly a
> >joint make of this sort of gross error would hold up. You would easily
> >see these and know there was a problem immediately. You'll find the
> >results interesting.........
> >
> >
> >The idea was to put each coupon in a pull test machine and expose the
> >riveted joint to a slowly increasing force until it yielded. This was
> >done at a structural test lab in Paramount (Southern CA city) that works
> >mostly with civil engineering construction materials. A stress/strain
> >graph was running and we monitored it to see the first indication of
> >joint failure as indicated by a decrease in force required as the coupon
> >stretched, cracked, broke in two, sheared or tipped rivets, etc. I was
> >interested in the force required to cause the initial failure, as well
> >as the nature and appearance of that initial failure; ie, what actually
> >happened first. We agreed to stop the machine at the incipient
> >indication of failure, thus preserving the coupon in its early failure
> >state without destroying the joint completely. I was very curious as to
> >how things would fail and really had no idea other than the thought that
> >the dimpled, flush riveted joint would probably be stronger than the
> >undimpled one with the 470 universal head rivets. In contrast, one of
> >the owners of the lab came in to watch and thought the opposite would be
> >true. In his 50 years in the business, he had never seen this test
> >done. What do you think would hold best?
> >
> >
> >That said, here is the answer to my prior question. A force of 2300
> >pounds was required to break the test material with no rivets or holes
> >in it. It failed catastrophically shortly after some initial stretching
> >was noted. I had no idea that a cross section of this 2024 T3 sheet,
> >.032 inches thick and 1.5 inches wide, would sustain anywhere near that
> >load. Frankly, I was surprised when it passed 1000 pounds and still
> >going strong.
> >
> >
> >Before showing you the numbers, I will give a brief summary of them:
> >
> >
> >1. The dimpled, flush riveted construction was stronger, but not by as
> >much as I had thought. However, and this is really important, initial
> >failure of the dimpled construction was generally not catastrophic and
> >occurred as rivet tipping and rivet head distortion. In contrast,
> >initial failure of the AN 470 undimpled construction was generally
> >catastrophic by rivet shear. I am really happy Van uses the flush
> >riveted, double dimpled joints throughout most of the airplane!
> >
> >
> >2. Slightly under driving or slightly over driving a rivet makes an
> >observable and thus measurable difference in the joint strength.
> >
> >
> >3. Slightly over driving is stronger than slightly under driving and
> >results (in my opinion) in an insignificant difference in strength as
> >compared to properly driven rivets.
> >
> >
> >4. In the one test of slightly over driven AN 470 rivets, the joint was
> >actually stronger than with properly driven rivets. This may have just
> >been the luck of the draw for this single sample, so I wouldn't put any
> >real faith in it.
> >
> >
> >5. A joint made of grossly over driven rivets is stronger joint than a
> >joint make of grossly under driven ones.
> >
> >
> >6. A grossly under driven AN 470 joint is much weaker than a grossly
> >under driven AN 426 joint.
> >
> >
> >7. No joint was as strong as the parent material itself.
> >
> >
> >To summarize the summary, try for properly driven rivets but realize
> >that minor over driving is preferable to minor under driving and results
> >in nearly the same strength as does the condition of properly driven
> >rivets.
> >
> >
> >AN 426 AD 3 Table
> >
> >
> >Condition Force at failure Nature of failure
> >
> >
> >Gross under 1650 Rivet tipping, head distortion
> >
> >Slight under 1775 Same
> >
> >Correct 2025 Same
> >
> >Slight over 1975 Same
> >
> >Gross over 1825 Sheet tear at rivet line
> >
> >
> >AN 470 AD 3 Table
> >
> >
> >Gross under 1100 Rivet tip plus one sheared rivet
> >
> >Slight under 1600 5 sheared rivets!
> >
> >Correct 1625 6 sheared rivets!
> >
> >Slight over 1750 6 sheared rivets!
> >
> >Gross over 1500 Rivet tip plus sheet tear at
> >
> >rivet line
> >
> >
> >Anyway, those are some real numbers for an area we have undoubtedly
> >thought about at one time or another. My opinions, FWIW: I think an
> >occasional rivet that is slightly under driven or slightly over driven
> >is utterly no big deal and can safely be ignored. We all have some of
> >these flying in formation in our airplanes. A line of them would be
> >another matter. Even an occasional grossly over driven rivet is
> >probably OK, especially if getting rid of it could cause damage. And if
> >underdriven too much, just whack it again. Hope you learned something
> >from this. I certainly did.
> >
> >
> >Scott Bilinski
> >Eng dept 305
> >Phone (858) 657-2536
> >Pager (858) 502-5190
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip com antenna |
Yes, bottom surface only, curving most of the way up to the outermost edge
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing tip com antenna
On 10/7/05, sportav8r(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> You'll want more than 50 miles of range if you ever call flight service
> for wx at your destination.
I've had mixed luck getting FSS or flightwatch even with a good antenna.
If you want just 50 miles' range, try lopping the antenna off at 6 or 8
> inches. The high swr will fold back your radio's power output, and you'll
> reduce aerodynamic drag to boot. Kidding, of course.
>
I just turn the dang radio off! :)
So...how was your antenna installed; was it on the bottom surface only?
Regards,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing tip com antenna |
Shouldn't be installed on the bottom surface (or the top surface for
that matter). It should be installed to get the maximum vertical
orientation. This means that it does not touch the internal surface of
the wingtip (at least on the 9 tips) except at the bottom of the antenna
and at the top of the antenna. Support it with fiberglass.
Dick Tasker
sportav8r(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Yes, bottom surface only, curving most of the way up to the outermost edge
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing tip com antenna
>
>
>On 10/7/05, sportav8r(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>>
>>You'll want more than 50 miles of range if you ever call flight service
>>for wx at your destination.
>>
>>
>
>
>I've had mixed luck getting FSS or flightwatch even with a good antenna.
>
>If you want just 50 miles' range, try lopping the antenna off at 6 or 8
>
>
>>inches. The high swr will fold back your radio's power output, and you'll
>>reduce aerodynamic drag to boot. Kidding, of course.
>>
>>
>>
>
>I just turn the dang radio off! :)
>
>So...how was your antenna installed; was it on the bottom surface only?
>
>Regards,
>Bob
>
>
>
>
--
----
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall ?????????? |
I installed a gascolator on my carburated engine, and wouldn't do it again.
In fact, I've thought about removing the one I've got. I'm very disciplined
about sumping the wing tanks, and have never found any water in the
gascolator. On the other hand, I think the gascolator is just another big
heat-sink under the cowl and contributes in some way to vapor lock. If
you're worried about heat related issues, vapor lock needs to be on your
list. With our tight cowls, heat gets trapped in there and everything gets
warm, particularly if you land, shut down, and try to re-start in 20-30
minutes on a hot summer day, which is probably the worst case. If I was
you, I'd consider firesleeving the fuel lines and aiming a blast tube at
your fuel pump. Some folks even valve things so they can circulate hot
firewall forward fuel back to one of the tanks, but I don't like adding
complexity to a fuel system. It adds another point of failure in a critical
system.
On the oil cooler issue, 2 coolers? You'll see more pressure drop, there
isn't a whole lot of extra room under the cowl, and you're doubling the
number of failure points. Before you go that route, you might talk to
Pacific Oil Cooler Service (1-800 866 7335). IMO, they are the most
knowledgable people around on oil coolers. They may be able to recommend a
single cooler that will serve your needs. I fought the oil temperature war
when my airplane was new. In the end, the single biggest factor in fixing my
temperature problem was cutting a big enough hole in the baffles to provide
air to the baffle mounted cooler.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Firewall ??????????
>
>
> Hi to all
>
> I am at that stage in the project where I need to start formulating plans
> for fire wall info. Things to contemplate, gotches to watch out for, and
> the
> equipment needs. I will be hanging an IO 360 fuel injected, Pmags, CS
> prop......................I am also considering (99% for sure) dual oil
> coolers, horizontal sump........it is real out in SW Utah Desert Country.
> Also the need for a gascolater considering I will have fuel
> injection???????? Your help and info will be greatly appreciated.
>
> TIA
>
> Frank @ SGU and SLC 7A Fuse about to be rolled.....Finish kit will arrive
> next week
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Full Swivel Tail wheel |
Andair sold a pneumatic TW for a while but it seems to have fizzled -- too
insubstantial and prone to flats. I tried two alternatives with plastic hubs
(still solid tires) and they saved a little weight but were also harder
rubber and vibrated a lot more, so I went back to the std. Vans wheel. I'm
still looking for a source for some better quality bearings for the std.
wheel.
Randall Henderson
RV-6 ~700 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Full Swivel Tail wheel |
Randall,
What's the problem with the bearings on the standard wheel? Mine has 350
hours and a bunch of landings, and it is holding up very well despite the
abuse I occasionally put it through.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Full Swivel Tail wheel
>
> Andair sold a pneumatic TW for a while but it seems to have fizzled -- too
> insubstantial and prone to flats. I tried two alternatives with plastic
> hubs
> (still solid tires) and they saved a little weight but were also harder
> rubber and vibrated a lot more, so I went back to the std. Vans wheel. I'm
> still looking for a source for some better quality bearings for the std.
> wheel.
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6 ~700 hrs
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Full Swivel Tail wheel |
The only problem that I found with Van's tailwheel is that it needs a
spacer between the two bearings so that the axle nut can be tightened
enough to keep the race from spinning on the axle, without preloading
the bearings too much. Very easy to do.
The bearings seem to be good enough but probably won't last very long if
they have too much preload.
Dave B. -6 So Cal
randall wrote:
>
>Andair sold a pneumatic TW for a while but it seems to have fizzled -- too
>insubstantial and prone to flats. I tried two alternatives with plastic hubs
>(still solid tires) and they saved a little weight but were also harder
>rubber and vibrated a lot more, so I went back to the std. Vans wheel. I'm
>still looking for a source for some better quality bearings for the std.
>wheel.
>
>Randall Henderson
>RV-6 ~700 hrs
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Full Swivel Tail wheel |
I don't remember how long my first TW lasted -- maybe 300-400 hrs -- but the
bearings were shot before the tire was. They are pretty cheezy affairs as
others have found (check the archives.) It's not a big deal, would nice to
find something a little better is all.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
>
> Randall,
>
> What's the problem with the bearings on the standard wheel? Mine has 350
> hours and a bunch of landings, and it is holding up very well despite the
> abuse I occasionally put it through.
>
> KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Full Swivel Tail wheel |
| From: | "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com> |
My experience was similar to Randall's.
I got a light wheel with sealed bearings from Terry Jantzi, it's working
well.
Dw
RV-6 910hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of randall
Subject: Re: RV-List: Full Swivel Tail wheel
I don't remember how long my first TW lasted -- maybe 300-400 hrs -- but
the bearings were shot before the tire was. They are pretty cheezy
affairs as others have found (check the archives.) It's not a big deal,
would nice to find something a little better is all.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
> -->
>
> Randall,
>
> What's the problem with the bearings on the standard wheel? Mine has
> 350 hours and a bunch of landings, and it is holding up very well
> despite the abuse I occasionally put it through.
>
> KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall ?????????? |
| From: | "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com> |
Frank,
I agree with Kyle.
A properly installed oil cooler will cool your engine, and adding
lines/failure points is NOT good.
Minimize all lines/connections/lengths, firesleeve, blast tube major
components.
Do a GOOD job on your baffling to insure air flow where you WANT it.
I have FI and don't use a gascolator, no problems in 900 hrs.
One thing I do that helps is when I stop somwhere, I open the oil door
to allow cool air to come in the bottom of the cowl and circulate up
thru everything and out the top of the cowl. I check my oil before
EVERY flight, so it is not an inconvenience, and helps reduce heat soak.
dw
RV-6 910hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Firewall ??????????
-->
I installed a gascolator on my carburated engine, and wouldn't do it
again.
In fact, I've thought about removing the one I've got. I'm very
disciplined about sumping the wing tanks, and have never found any water
in the gascolator. On the other hand, I think the gascolator is just
another big heat-sink under the cowl and contributes in some way to
vapor lock. If you're worried about heat related issues, vapor lock
needs to be on your list. With our tight cowls, heat gets trapped in
there and everything gets warm, particularly if you land, shut down, and
try to re-start in 20-30 minutes on a hot summer day, which is probably
the worst case. If I was you, I'd consider firesleeving the fuel lines
and aiming a blast tube at your fuel pump. Some folks even valve things
so they can circulate hot firewall forward fuel back to one of the
tanks, but I don't like adding complexity to a fuel system. It adds
another point of failure in a critical system.
On the oil cooler issue, 2 coolers? You'll see more pressure drop,
there isn't a whole lot of extra room under the cowl, and you're
doubling the number of failure points. Before you go that route, you
might talk to Pacific Oil Cooler Service (1-800 866 7335). IMO, they
are the most knowledgable people around on oil coolers. They may be able
to recommend a single cooler that will serve your needs. I fought the
oil temperature war when my airplane was new. In the end, the single
biggest factor in fixing my temperature problem was cutting a big enough
hole in the baffles to provide air to the baffle mounted cooler.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Full Swivel Tail wheel |
> I don't remember how long my first TW lasted -- maybe 300-400 hrs -- but
the
> bearings were shot before the tire was.
Have you guys checked the price of Van's TW bearings? $2.60 and an entire
TW is $27 at currant 2005 prices! Chief Aircraft wants $114.50 for a solid
tire for the Scott 2000 TW and the 3200 TW is $349.95 for the wheel
assembly!!! Now, again, what is the issue with Van's Tailwheel ??? I
don't find much of a problem here as I can carry spares in my parts
inventory and still save much $$$$ even if they have to be replaced every
300 hrs!
Dick DeCramer
RV6 90hrs
Minnesota
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> |
Hi all, just wondering about the advantage if any of having a stereo input to the
audio system. Considering the ambient noise level in an RV, is stereo noticeable
and worth the added cost?
Thanks
Greg RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stereo or not? |
Oh, it is MOST definitely worth having stereo. If you are any sort of
audiophile -- that is, you can actually tell the difference between mono and
stereo -- then I highly recommend installing a stereo input. I've used an
ipod & now an XM Roady 2 in my RV and it really kicks butt. Using the
GMA-340 with its 20dB boost enabled and listening through Lightspeed
headsets that I have (25XL and 20XL), the sound quality is excellent
considering its in an airplane with tiny headset speakers. I personally
wouldn't be happy with monaural sound.
Something else to consider... I originally wired up a single 1/8" stereo
jack under the panel (wired into the entertainment input in my audio panel).
That worked, but I'm not a fan of wires in the cockpit -- and it's not very
conducive to "expansion" of the system. When it came time to install my XM
radio "permanently," I went ahead and installed a 4-circuit terminal strip.
Shield, left, right, ground, wired to the audio panel. The 1/8" stereo jack
hooks up at the terminal strip, as does the permanent XM installation. If I
ever want to add some other audio device in the future, I just wire it to
the terminal strip. No need to do surgery on my audio panel harness. I'm
sure there are more elegant ways of doing this, but this works for me.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: stereo or not?
>
> Hi all, just wondering about the advantage if any of having a stereo input
to the audio system. Considering the ambient noise level in an RV, is
stereo noticeable and worth the added cost?
>
> Thanks
> Greg RV8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Sealer on Whelen strobe lights |
Thanks all for the input.
Michele
RV8 - Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]
Subject: RV-List: Sealer on Whelen strobe lights
Listers,
I just received my Whelen strobe lights. They are sealed with some white
ProSeal like, Sikaflex like substance which is quite rubbery and which seems
perfect for preserving wires from chaffing against each other as they come
out of connectors or pass through grommets. Any of you guys have an idea as
to what Whelen might have used ? Or could you recommend a similar product ?
Thanks,
Michele
RV8 - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stereo or not? |
Are you someone who listens to music at home, in the office, in the car? If you
love music and especially want to take long trips with your RV it is a must.
However a cheap stereo intercom and headset and poor music source (low power low
fidelity) is almost worse than having no music. If you want music be ready
to pay extra for the best components.
There is more to it than having a STEREO input. Good quality input (ipod, xm radio),
good quality stereo headset (lightspeed) and most important good quality
intercom. I recommend the 244e from DRE. They make a top of the line stereo intercom.
I know PS engineering also makes good intercoms.
Some problems with some portable music/CD player/MP3 players is they don't have
enough output to drive the intercom properly, so I made a little stereo preamp,
hidden under the panel. It uses a few milli amps when not used. The preamp
is in-line with my aux jack, if I need to boost the source. Many low powered devices
have to be turned way up to supply the proper source and the music become
more distorted.
As far as noise, Yes, you will never get the fidelity you would sitting in your
media room or den with your doba-deca-super-phonic 10 thousand watt surround
sound, but it is still a nice feature. If you are a talk-radio guy and the last
CD you bought was in the mid 80's or all your music is on somthing that starts
with 8, forget it. :-)
One thing you can consider instead of a full stereo intercom, for occasional cross
country flights, is stuffing ear-buds into you ears, than put the head-set
over them. The music is direct from the music source to the ear buds, separate
from the intercom. If the head-set has good ear seals the wires will not leak
much noise. Turning your com radio up a little will override the music if needed
and assure no missed radio calls, but you will have to manually turn the
music down to talk. Stereo intercoms MUTE the music automatically and fade it
back when done, however if flying VFR in basic G airspace, outside the airport
traffic pattern, there's not much ATC to listen to. I do suggest 121.5 is a good
freq to listen to on a X-C for those distress calls or when the F-16 intercepts
you because you just flew thru restricted airspace due to being distracted
from listening to your music mix tape, Best of the Polka. :-)
George
>Subject: RV-List: stereo or not?
>Hi all, just wondering about the advantage if any of having a stereo input to
the
>audio system. Considering the ambient noise level in an RV, is stereo noticeable
>and worth the added cost?
>
>Thanks
>Greg RV8
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: stereo or not? |
>Hi all, just wondering about the advantage if any of having a stereo input
>to the audio system. Considering the ambient noise level in an RV, is
>stereo noticeable and worth the added cost?
Absolutely. As Dan and George mentioned, go for quality. I use the XM Roady 2
which can be had for free to $5 at times on www.ecost.com.
Definitely wire your system so that the unit can be mounted in a good place
to minimize wires. Mine is not that way now and the spaghetti nest of wires
is tacky. But I do have nice music. Lightspeed 20 3G headsets but I would
go for the 30s next time (more db attenuation). Make sure that your intercom
mutes on VHF radio operation. I would also look for an intercom that has the
option to NOT mute in that case for the passenger.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Dan (and others),
Did you have to use a separate antenna to be able to get reception or is
the raw/base unit adequate? Last thing we need is more antennas and
wires.
Chuck
Dan Checkoway wrote
Oh, it is MOST definitely worth having stereo. If you are any sort of
audiophile -- that is, you can actually tell the difference between mono
and
stereo -- then I highly recommend installing a stereo input. I've used
an
ipod & now an XM Roady 2 in my RV and it really kicks butt. Using the
GMA-340 with its 20dB boost enabled and listening through Lightspeed
headsets that I have (25XL and 20XL), the sound quality is excellent
considering its in an airplane with tiny headset speakers. I personally
wouldn't be happy with monaural sound.
Something else to consider... I originally wired up a single 1/8"
stereo
jack under the panel (wired into the entertainment input in my audio
panel).
That worked, but I'm not a fan of wires in the cockpit -- and it's not
very
conducive to "expansion" of the system. When it came time to install my
XM
radio "permanently," I went ahead and installed a 4-circuit terminal
strip.
Shield, left, right, ground, wired to the audio panel. The 1/8" stereo
jack
hooks up at the terminal strip, as does the permanent XM installation.
If I
ever want to add some other audio device in the future, I just wire it
to
the terminal strip. No need to do surgery on my audio panel harness.
I'm
sure there are more elegant ways of doing this, but this works for me.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
>Did you have to use a separate antenna to be able to get reception or is
>the raw/base unit adequate? Last thing we need is more antennas and
>wires.
XM requires a small antenna (max 1 inch square). Then there is the power cord
and the radio output cord (to intercom stereo input). That is why you need
to plan
for it to minimize cord issues. I have heard that the XM cigarette
lighter assembly
has DC-DC converter electronics so you may not be able to cut the cord and
hardwire it in.
I am considering a cigarette lighter stack behind the panel for the various
items
that need it. Most likely would be inserted down and tiewrapped for security.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffery J. Morgan" <jmorgan(at)compnetconcepts.com> |
If you check online or go to a Best Buy or such store, they sell an in
dash car hookup kit that has a cigarette plug connector with a wire
split off for junction into the line so that you can put the adapter in
the dash without having it hanging out in the open. That is what I did
in my vehicle.
Of course that being said, you could make such a connector very easily
and probably much less then that $30 for the kit.
-------
XM requires a small antenna (max 1 inch square). Then there is the
power cord and the radio output cord (to intercom stereo input). That
is why you need to plan
for it to minimize cord issues. I have heard that the XM cigarette
lighter assembly
has DC-DC converter electronics so you may not be able to cut the cord
and hardwire it in.
I am considering a cigarette lighter stack behind the panel for the
various items that need it. Most likely would be inserted down and
tiewrapped for security.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stereo or not? |
> Did you have to use a separate antenna to be able to get reception or is
> the raw/base unit adequate? Last thing we need is more antennas and
> wires.
I've been playing around with my XM antenna installation. I use the stock
antenna that came with the Roady2. It works fine if you place it out in the
open, but I'm still fidgeting around with antenna locations. I'm such a
snob about "seeing" stuff out in the open, and I want nothing on my
glareshield and I refuse to mount antennas externally. So obviously that
presents a challenge... ;-)
My current project is to replacing my front deck access panels, currently
aluminum, with fiberglass, and mounting my XM antenna (and a few other
satellite antennas for new projects) under there as well. I'm currently
envying composite aircraft builders...nah, nevermind that.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Off Topic: Wild Blue Internet service, anyone? |
I'm struggling with bad dialup & can't get dsl or cable.
Has anyone had any experience with 'Wild Blue Internet' satellite service?
http://www.wildblue.com/
Any other fast/affordable alternatives? (DirectPC is a bit too painful
an entry fee at this point)
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Solder-it-yourself Magneto Buzz Box |
RVators,
If you're like me and have at least one magneto, you gotta check timing from
time to time. My hangarmate has a dual mag buzz box, and I've been bumming
it off him. But recently he loaned out his engine tool kit, and I've wanted
to have my own buzz box. To buy one of these suckers off the shelf, the
price isn't too bad, around $45-50 or so at the cheapest. But I always
figured it couldn't be too complicated a circuit if you wanted to build your
own.
I'm no electrical engineer, but I can solder! I was turned on to this KIT
to solder up your own buzz box:
http://www.magnetotimer.com
It's basically half the cost ($28, including shipping) of an off-the-shelf
product, and you get to build it yourself. I bought one, and last night I
soldered it up and gave it a try. Here are some photos:
http://images.rvproject.com/images/magtimer/kit.jpg
It comes 100% complete, including the molded case and everything you need.
All you need is a soldering iron and solder (and a 9V battery). All of the
components come taped to the diagram, pointing at exactly where they go on
the board. Just solder 'em on, one by one, and then fire it up! It works
great!!!
http://images.rvproject.com/images/magtimer/completed.jpg
It has a buzzer and two LEDs, one for each mag (assuming you have two). It
has an auto-off function. It detects a short or improper hookups. The test
leads stow in the case. The thing rocks!
(I am not affiliated...just a happy customer.)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (643 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
7.50 BARRACUDA_HEADER_FP56 RBL": "Blacklist bl.spamcop
[Blocked - see" <http://www.spamcop.net/bl.shtml?206.46.252.53@roxy.matronics.com>]
Our new RV-7A flew September 30! George says it flies great. When it is out
of the paint shop, we'll post pictures on our website.
It is with much regret, but we cannot justify two planes, that we are offering
our RV-6A for sale. Details can be found at:
www.fly-gbi.com/N229RV.htm
Please email or call (940) 648-0841 if you are interested.
Becki Orndorff
GeoBeck, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 Kit for sale |
| From: | "McIntosh, Todd" <McIntoshT(at)health.missouri.edu> |
1.53 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received": rv-list(at)matronics.com
Two RVs is one to many. I am selling my RV10 kit. Tail is finished. Haven't
started on wings yet but everything has been inventoried. Contact me at
mcintoshtw(at)direcway.com if interested.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerald Richardson <gerric(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Garmin 396 on EBay |
Check out his link on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/Garmin-GPSMap-396-Garmin-GPSMap-296-brand-new_W0QQit
emZ6005145584QQcategoryZ18992QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I was wondering if anyone has bought these Garmin 296 and 396 GPS's on
Ebay. Is this a scam?
It appears that they ship direct from Europe to America for $500.00 USD
for the Garmin 396 and $400.00 USD for the 296, and they both contain
all the optional equipment. They want the funds transferred via Western
Union only. Makes me wonder here...
It appears there is more than 1 individual doing this.
Here is a response I received from 2 different individuals
""HI
First I want to tell you that my Garmin are brand new, unopened box
all accessories included and also an international warranty.
The invoice will come at the same time with the package.
My price is the best you could get: 500 $, including the
shipping and insurance taxes. We will pay them because the package
will be delivered from Europe.I have 5 units avalaible.
As delivery service we use UPS 2 days air service or overnight (with
insurance and
15 days return policy), because it's the faster also free. And if you
will have
a quick payment, we must also have a quick delivery. So that's why we
use as a payment method Western Union money transfer, the fastest and
also very secure way of sending money.
So, if you agree with my terms I'm sure that we can close the deal as
soon as possible.
Waiting your quick answer right now,
THANK YOU ""
Sounds a little too good to be true.
Any comments...
Thanks
Gerald
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin 396 on EBay |
If you go for this, I have a bridge in Brooklyn that I'd be willing to
sell....
Jerry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerald Richardson
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 396 on EBay
Check out his link on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/Garmin-GPSMap-396-Garmin-GPSMap-296-brand-new_W0QQit
emZ6005145584QQcategoryZ18992QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I was wondering if anyone has bought these Garmin 296 and 396 GPS's on Ebay.
Is this a scam?
It appears that they ship direct from Europe to America for $500.00 USD for
the Garmin 396 and $400.00 USD for the 296, and they both contain all the
optional equipment. They want the funds transferred via Western Union only.
Makes me wonder here...
It appears there is more than 1 individual doing this.
Here is a response I received from 2 different individuals
""HI
First I want to tell you that my Garmin are brand new, unopened box all
accessories included and also an international warranty.
The invoice will come at the same time with the package.
My price is the best you could get: 500 $, including the shipping and
insurance taxes. We will pay them because the package will be delivered from
Europe.I have 5 units avalaible.
As delivery service we use UPS 2 days air service or overnight (with
insurance and
15 days return policy), because it's the faster also free. And if you will
have a quick payment, we must also have a quick delivery. So that's why we
use as a payment method Western Union money transfer, the fastest and also
very secure way of sending money.
So, if you agree with my terms I'm sure that we can close the deal as soon
as possible.
Waiting your quick answer right now,
THANK YOU ""
Sounds a little too good to be true.
Any comments...
Thanks
Gerald
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 396 on EBay |
It's a scam. Usually those auctions get pulled within 30 minutes or
so... but they try to pull that with all of the new electronics.
james
#40400
Gerald Richardson wrote:
>
>Check out his link on Ebay
>http://cgi.ebay.com/Garmin-GPSMap-396-Garmin-GPSMap-296-brand-new_W0QQit
>emZ6005145584QQcategoryZ18992QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
>I was wondering if anyone has bought these Garmin 296 and 396 GPS's on
>Ebay. Is this a scam?
>It appears that they ship direct from Europe to America for $500.00 USD
>for the Garmin 396 and $400.00 USD for the 296, and they both contain
>all the optional equipment. They want the funds transferred via Western
>Union only. Makes me wonder here...
>
>It appears there is more than 1 individual doing this.
>
>Here is a response I received from 2 different individuals
>
>""HI
>First I want to tell you that my Garmin are brand new, unopened box
>all accessories included and also an international warranty.
>The invoice will come at the same time with the package.
>My price is the best you could get: 500 $, including the
>shipping and insurance taxes. We will pay them because the package
>will be delivered from Europe.I have 5 units avalaible.
>As delivery service we use UPS 2 days air service or overnight (with
>insurance and
>15 days return policy), because it's the faster also free. And if you
>will have
>a quick payment, we must also have a quick delivery. So that's why we
>use as a payment method Western Union money transfer, the fastest and
>also very secure way of sending money.
>So, if you agree with my terms I'm sure that we can close the deal as
>soon as possible.
>Waiting your quick answer right now,
>THANK YOU ""
>
>Sounds a little too good to be true.
>
>Any comments...
>
>Thanks
>
>Gerald
>RV6A
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | RV flooring & adhesive |
I am just getting around to putting in some 3/4 foam padding on the floor of my
6 between the floor angles and wondered what is being used as adhesive? 3M spray?
2 sided tape? Pro seal?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Krueger <pndkrueg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV flooring & adhesive |
>
> I am just getting around to putting in some 3/4 foam padding on the
> floor of my 6 between the floor angles and wondered what is being used
> as adhesive?
I have found that adhesive is not necessary to hold the foam in place,
Keeping the carpet in place over the foam is another matter - any
suggestions on how to hold the carpet and still easily remove it for
inspections - greatly appreciated.
Dan Krueger
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV flooring & adhesive |
> I have found that adhesive is not necessary to hold the foam in place,
> Keeping the carpet in place over the foam is another matter - any
> suggestions on how to hold the carpet and still easily remove it for
> inspections - greatly appreciated.
I used 3M Super 77 spray on foam-to-floor.
I used double-sided carpet tape (from the aviation aisle at Lowe's) to keep
the carpet in place. The first year, the passenger side kept scooting
forward, because regardless of how clearly briefed passengers were on how to
get in, it seemed like they ALWAYS dug their heels in. At the first annual,
I pulled up the old tape and replaced it, and I used almost 2x as much tape,
particularly in the area where a bonehead would dig his heels in. The
carpet hasn't budged since.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (643 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV flooring & adhesive |
No need to glue the foam to the floor. Cut it to fit snug and it will
stay in place. You want it easily removable for when you drop hardware
while working under the panel and it rolls back and under the spar...
3M77 or even better 3M90 to glue the carpet to the floor. I used one
piece of carpet over each of the two outer sections, and one narrow
piece for the middle foam section, and this makes the whole thing pretty
easy to remove and install.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | BETA: Winds Aloft Interpolator |
I just finished a beta version of my new "great circle winds aloft
interpolator." This will you the winds aloft at various altitudes and
locations along a specified route. The goal is to help you pick an optimal
altitude for a cross-country flight.
I emphasize the word BETA. But please give it a shot...go to:
http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
...and click on "Winds" at the top. Enter your departure and destination
airports, and click Go.
Let me know if you see any funky behavior.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BETA: Winds Aloft Interpolator |
| From: | "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
Very Cool! Thanks Dan!
Smitty
http://SmittysRV.com
>
> I just finished a beta version of my new "great circle winds aloft
> interpolator." This will you the winds aloft at various altitudes and
> locations along a specified route. The goal is to help you pick an
> optimal
> altitude for a cross-country flight.
>
> I emphasize the word BETA. But please give it a shot...go to:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
>
> ...and click on "Winds" at the top. Enter your departure and destination
> airports, and click Go.
>
> Let me know if you see any funky behavior.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BETA: Winds Aloft Interpolator |
Excellent planning tool, Dan.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: BETA: Winds Aloft Interpolator
>
> I just finished a beta version of my new "great circle winds aloft
> interpolator." This will you the winds aloft at various altitudes and
> locations along a specified route. The goal is to help you pick an
> optimal
> altitude for a cross-country flight.
>
> I emphasize the word BETA. But please give it a shot...go to:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
>
> ...and click on "Winds" at the top. Enter your departure and destination
> airports, and click Go.
>
> Let me know if you see any funky behavior.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | RV flooring & adhesive |
>I am just getting around to putting in some 3/4 foam padding on the floor
>of my 6 between the floor angles and wondered what is being used as
>adhesive? 3M spray? 2 sided tape? Pro seal?
Like others I used normal two sided tape (2-3 strips). I also placed
approximately 14" x 10 " sections of about 1/8" thick clear plastic
under where peoples heels go when on the pedals. That keeps
from digging in. That goes under the carpet although on top might
offer some advantages. The plastic also came from Home Depot or
Lowes. This is one plastic piece on each side.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV flooring & adhesive |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Oh, Dan, I'm so embarrassed. I really appreciated the ride, so I didn't
want to say anything about how the carpet bunched up. I thought it was
just substandard construction. Oh, I'm so embarrassed, words fail me. I
never knew. I just thought your long winded haranguing before the
flight about getting into the plane carefully was just because you were
afraid some parts might fall off or something. Oh, I'm just so
embarrassed.
Yours regretfully,
Bone Head
(Just kidding)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV flooring & adhesive
> I have found that adhesive is not necessary to hold the foam in place,
> Keeping the carpet in place over the foam is another matter - any
> suggestions on how to hold the carpet and still easily remove it for
> inspections - greatly appreciated.
I used 3M Super 77 spray on foam-to-floor.
I used double-sided carpet tape (from the aviation aisle at Lowe's) to
keep
the carpet in place. The first year, the passenger side kept scooting
forward, because regardless of how clearly briefed passengers were on
how to
get in, it seemed like they ALWAYS dug their heels in. At the first
annual,
I pulled up the old tape and replaced it, and I used almost 2x as much
tape,
particularly in the area where a bonehead would dig his heels in. The
carpet hasn't budged since.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (643 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: BETA: Winds Aloft Interpolator |
Nice job, Dan!
Does it calculate a "headwind component" even if it's actually a crosswind (which
still adds length to the trip by forcing a correction angle, as we know...)?
Just curious.
I've bookmarked it on my favorites list. Thanks!
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Anderson <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: BETA: Winds Aloft Interpolator
Excellent planning tool, Dan.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: BETA: Winds Aloft Interpolator
>
> I just finished a beta version of my new "great circle winds aloft
> interpolator." This will you the winds aloft at various altitudes and
> locations along a specified route. The goal is to help you pick an
> optimal
> altitude for a cross-country flight.
>
> I emphasize the word BETA. But please give it a shot...go to:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
>
> ...and click on "Winds" at the top. Enter your departure and destination
> airports, and click Go.
>
> Let me know if you see any funky behavior.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Solder-it-yourself Magneto Buzz Box |
Thanks Dan for the post. I just ordered one as I always borrowed a timer also.!
Many, many more thanks that your translated weather site is up again!!! For all
the available weather sites, YOURS IS THE VERY BEST!!
For those on the RV list who are not familiar with Dan's great weather site visit
: http//rvproject/com/wx
Lothar, RV-6A in Denver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Solder-it-yourself Magneto Buzz Box |
Actually http://www.rvproject.com/wx/ works a lot better. :-)
Dick Tasker
LML Klingmuller wrote:
>
>For those on the RV list who are not familiar with Dan's great weather site visit
: http//rvproject/com/wx
>
>Lothar, RV-6A in Denver
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV flooring & adhesive |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV flooring & adhesive
I haven't gotten that far yet in my project, but, how about using snaps.
They work well in my boat. You can get a snap kit at any boat shop or
hardware store.
Paul
RV 8QB
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV flooring & adhesive |
Dave;
My solution in a RV-6A: fitted the foam between the floor angles and
then fitted a sheet of 1/8 " hardboard (aka "Masonite") between the
lower longerons and on top of the foam; glued the foam to the underside
of the hardboard with 3M spay adhesive; next fitted and glued some
lightweight indoor/outdoor carpet to the top of the hardboard. The
hardboard was cut to fits in two pieces (L&R of the stock battery box)
and the carpet overlaps the hardboard joint and is secured by Velcro
strips. The carpet extends a few inches up the fuselage sides and is
secured by more Velcro. (Velcro purchased from the aviation department
at Weal-Mart).
Result is a nice firm floor and the carpet doesn't wiggle around or
bunch up, the floor system is removable and the bit of carpet going up
the sides means that dropped pencils, etc. don't fall down in a crack
and get lost. The hardboard didn't seem to ad much weight but I suppose
some lightening holes could have been cut in non-critical areas.
Lightweight plywood or similar would do the same job.
Jim Oke
Wpg., MB
RV-6A C-GKGZ
>
>I am just getting around to putting in some 3/4 foam padding on the floor of my
6 between the floor angles and wondered what is being used as adhesive? 3M
spray? 2 sided tape? Pro seal?
>
>Dave Ford
>RV6
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BETA: Winds Aloft Interpolator |
On 11 Oct 2005, at 23:14, sportav8r(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> This brings up an interesting question which I am too simple to
> reason out for myself: at what angle does a quartering tailwind
> actually begin to be more help than hindrance to a pilot? A direct
> crosswind is not neutral from a groundspeed standpoint, since it
> requires a crab angle to compensate for, and reduces forward speed
> in the desired direction. A direct tailwind is obviously good.
> Variations between cross- and tail-winds produce a vector sum of
> good and bad effects, but at what angle does the net gain really
> begin? My hunch is that the "magic angle" will be 45 or 60 degrees
> off of a direct tailwind bearing, for reasons that have something
> to do with half-forgotten trig from the 11th grade. Somehow I
> don't think the answer varies with wind speed and true airspeed,
> but maybe it does. What's the answer, Dan? Inquiring minds want
> to know...
>
At typical RV and wind speeds, the wind only has to be a few degrees
off of a direct crosswind before it will help your ground speed. For
example, if your TAS is 160 kt, your track is 90 degrees, a wind of
20 kt from 360 degrees knocks your groundspeed down a whole knot to
159. If the wind direction changes 4 degrees to the west, to 356
degrees, your groundspeed is back up to 160. No wind forecast is
good enough to discern a 4 degree change in wind direction.
If the wind speed is higher, it must be more to the west before it
will help our east bound flyer. A 50 kt wind from 360 degrees gives
a ground speed of 152 kt. A wind from 351 degrees neither helps nor
hurts the ground speed, and winds further west obviously help.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RTV and Manual trim |
Van's instructions say to use RTV to protect the manual trim cable where it penetrates
the horizontal stabilizer rib at an acute angle and the horizontal stabilizer
spar where the spar reinforcements don't allow the hole to be large enough
to accomodate a snap bushing. I didn't do this because I forgot during assembly
and now that the system is operating, I feel the increase in stick forces
needed to bend the trim cable as I operate the elevator. During operation,
the trim cable moves back and forth a little bit & using RTV at those joints
near the trim tab can only make the operation stiffer.
So, I'm asking if anyone has experience with manual trim that was not RTV'd and
what kind of cable wear occured at the spar and rib penetrations.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: BETA: Winds Aloft Interpolator |
Brilliant, Dan. The FAA should pay you for this, far superior to what they
have. I use your site every time for cross country, a real benefit, and fast.
Thanks so much for it. I will use the "winds" today for a short flight KUAO
to KPSC, about an hour and 10... It occurred to me it might be possible for
the program to take your cruise speed and calculate optimum altitude for
shortest time... with adjustment for climb/descent???
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
In a message dated 10/12/2005 12:02:59 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: BETA: Winds Aloft Interpolator
I just finished a beta version of my new "great circle winds aloft
interpolator." This will you the winds aloft at various altitudes and
locations along a specified route. The goal is to help you pick an optimal
altitude for a cross-country flight.
I emphasize the word BETA. But please give it a shot...go to:
http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
...and click on "Winds" at the top. Enter your departure and destination
airports, and click Go.
Let me know if you see any funky behavior.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:RV flooring & adhesive |
VELCRO is the ticket here folks. Been using it for two years pilot side, no
problema!!!
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV flooring & adhesive
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV flooring & adhesive
I haven't gotten that far yet in my project, but, how about using snaps.
They work well in my boat. You can get a snap kit at any boat shop or
hardware store.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle(at)hq.InclineSoftworks.com> |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0007 1.0000 -4.4816
I would like to hear from those of you who have actually sold an RV as
to the resale value, headaches, etc.
I am seriously looking at an RV-8. I am budgeting $75K for the project
(new engine). I would like to think that I can get out after a few
years of flying for close to my investment, less engine reserves, with
zero for my time.
My questions:
- How hard is it to sell an RV or other experimental vs. a
production aircraft?
- How long does it typically take to sell
- How well do the values hold up, neglecting the time investment?
- How hard is it to sell a tail dragger vs. a tricycle gear
configuration?
- Should there be any concern over ongoing liability after a
sale? If so, would parting out the airplane make more sense?
Thanks
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <groves(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BETA: Winds Aloft Interpolator |
> Thank you very much Dan!!!!! Your time and effort is really appreciated.
Kirk
> From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
> Date: 2005/10/12 Wed PM 01:42:21 EDT
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: BETA: Winds Aloft Interpolator
>
>
>
> Brilliant, Dan. The FAA should pay you for this, far superior to what they
> have. I use your site every time for cross country, a real benefit, and fast.
> Thanks so much for it. I will use the "winds" today for a short flight KUAO
> to KPSC, about an hour and 10... It occurred to me it might be possible for
> the program to take your cruise speed and calculate optimum altitude for
> shortest time... with adjustment for climb/descent???
>
> Jerry Cochran
> Wilsonville, OR
>
>
> In a message dated 10/12/2005 12:02:59 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
> Subject: RV-List: BETA: Winds Aloft Interpolator
>
>
> I just finished a beta version of my new "great circle winds aloft
> interpolator." This will you the winds aloft at various altitudes and
> locations along a specified route. The goal is to help you pick an optimal
> altitude for a cross-country flight.
>
> I emphasize the word BETA. But please give it a shot...go to:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
>
> ...and click on "Winds" at the top. Enter your departure and destination
> airports, and click Go.
>
> Let me know if you see any funky behavior.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
Hi RVers,
Today is a day, in my country, when, if you are a pilot,
you would not normally push open the hangar door, nor for that matter, drive out
to the airfield.
For today we have wind and rain which beats so hard that my wipers barely keep
up.
But then, this was such a day when, at 17, and invincible, I completed my cross
country when everyone else turned back and, upon my return, was both congratulated
and vilified.
What the hell did I know ? it was all new to me to see rain run uphill on the windsreen,
and since I only had one day off a week and had spent whole days waiting
for the white light to go off on the tower, was up to the task. No radio
in those days, and no need to even crane your neck to see under the wing as to
what the ident for this particular ship was.
All I know was that I took off on 08 and assumed to come back the same way, especially
when I saw a Hurc sitting on the button of same, but NO, I found out later,
they wanted me to land on 26 after skimming at 600 over the shoreline and
black overcast, but the Hurc was a better indicator to me than the windsock,
which I could not find anyway.
And a steady green light I took to mean..OK, land !.....I mean, it was getting
blacker and windier and it wouldn't get better any time soon.
Pleased to get their aircraft back, the office staff told me that one Owen Lloyd
in the tower would like me to call.
Call, I did, and got a reaming I shall treasure always....but I was 17....a virgin
still, but a warrior of the sky just the same.
Which brings me back to today. For some reason, I relish a hellish day when I can
sit in an airplane with wings rocking and see if I can do more than just a
circuit to see if I am still at one with the elements.
Besides, I now have a metal prop and that makes a difference.
Well, takeoff is a non event other than the normal thrill an RV imparts, but climbing
out keeps me in practice of my dance steps as I head out East and follow
my beloved river.
Rain is so neat to watch steaming back in rivulets as it does with the speed that
an RV pulls it.
Low cloud base, but the visibilty is still surprisingly good and the rivers course
and sand bars with rainy day fishermen are still where they always are.
What a hoot, bending this way and that with the hills still far enough away, but
the tops of them and the giant Firs in mist.
Before long however, things close in somewhat and after the last bend the hills
rise steeply and one enters a canyon from which decisions are best wisely and
quickly made, however fun and thrilling this may be, for to fly another 5 minutes
this way means very bad things be lurking and even so, to get through and
land at the little grass strip where gliders live may mean that one would not
get home today or tomorrow, for the sake of 5 minutes more this way.
This river wends its way from countless galcial streams with clear ice
water to a torrent of brown, silt laden, rushing to the sea and creating the delta
upon which I live.
This silt can be seen for miles out into the gulf and as I turn to follow it, I
now have the outflow winds from the mountains at my back and I am racing at 209
mph on the GPS back toward the barn.
An RV is a very fast pony to race with, but also makes for a short entry time in
the log unless you decide to run a while longer while vis is good and traffic
is nowhere.
I can see a white line where waves break on the shore, and freighters from Asia
leave wakes a mile long behind them, and what great fun to drop down to about
300 along the shore and marvel at how now, I can actually see the speed which
altitude cannot give you....no head in the cockpit now, just a very gentle suggestion
to the right with two fingers and thumb, and we drop the wing and round
the corner of the point, level off, climb back where we belong, race over the
green pastures and call in for landing.
Straight ins are a bore, and no test of skill, so a short carrier approach with
speed bled off sits me down with satisfaction once again.
Sliding back the canopy and I get rain in the face and when the prop stops, the
only sound is banging hangar doors where some other RV builder has decided that
a rainy day at the airport is better than TV at home anytime, and therefore
a visit makes for a nice way to top off the day.
Even if it was way too poor to fly, I would still get a boot just to sit in the
cabin and watch the rain beat and listen to the wind sing her song.....
Rain was meant to flow uphill sometimes.
Anonymous
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <danlist(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces |
Hi everyone. A few days ago, I asked about the proper technique for
setting rivets in dimpled surfaces. My original intent was to write
back individually to everyone who replied, but the response and
variety of suggestions I got to my questions was so overwhelming, so
I thought I'd write a brief note summarizing what I've learned from
others and/or discovered on my own, in case anyone else out there is
just starting as I was, and has the same questions. Many of you
probably already know this, but for those who don't...
1. When judging the height of the shop head on a rivet set in two
dimpled surfaces, the height should be measured from the top of the
dimple (where the head starts to form), not the surface of the
surrounding material. This makes it a bit more tricky to use a rivet
height gauge, but absolutely critical to ensure that there is enough
actual head thickness. It's what I figured, but it's nice to have it
confirmed.
2. If a dimple is properly formed, it should fit well into a
countersink that is just slightly recessed more than enough for a
rivet to sit flush inside it. Just slightly is really only about
0.005" or so, as recommended by Van's. When I was doing my first
test pieces, there was no way that I could get a dimple to sit into
the appropriate countersink, until I realized that I wasn't being as
aggressive as I should have been on my dimples. The resulting
dimples had a somewhat rounded edge where they started, and this was
conflicting with a good fit against the sharp edge of the
countersink. Setting the dimple much more aggressively sharpened the
edges, and now they fit rather quite well. I presume that as long as
the thickness of the surrounding metal isn't being deformed by the
dies, it's tough to set a dimple too aggressively. If anyone knows
otherwise, please let me know.
3. If two dimples don't fit perfectly into one another, there's a
little trick to setting a flush rivet to let everything line up
perfectly. I tried it and it works great. Into a bucking bar or
something similar, machine a hole and appropriate countersink for the
rivet (basically, machine a simple female dimple die into a bucking
bar). Use riveting tape to tape the rivet in place. Use this
machined hole over the rivet as a bucking bar and give the rivet a
relatively light burst from the rivet gun. It will cause the rivet
to set itself and the surrounding dimple into place. Then, rivet as
normal. Some say they do this for all of their flush rivets and they
all turn out great.
4. Though some advocate using a #41 drill instead of #40 when using
dimpled holes to compensate for the hole stretching when dimpling,
it's kind of a diminishing returns kind of thing. It doesn't make a
huge difference, and can even be detrimental if the width of the
"neck" of the rivet passing through the sheets is actually supposed
to be enlarged to the size of a stretched #40 - for all we know, it
could have been engineered that way specifically, and a smaller hole
would mean a smaller neck, which would mean a weaker rivet. When in
doubt, stick to Van's plans...
5. I was having trouble setting rivets with the appropriate minimum
diameter and minimum shop head thickness. In a few cases, the rivets
would end up smaller than required for both the diameter and
thickness (so there was no way I could drive it any differently),
implying that the rivet wasn't long enough to form a good head. I
obtained a practice starter kit from GeoBeck, Inc (www.fly-gbi.com)
that included an Orndorff video (which was very informative) and some
practice materials apparently provided by Van's. In any case, my
less than perfect dimples made a less than perfect fit, making the
rivet a little short. And it looks like that practice kit routinely
called for rivets to be at least 1/32 shorter than the RV-10 kit
calls for when joining the same thicknesses of aluminum. So
hopefully on the plane, I'll have a bit more material in the rivet to
work with. I've started the real thing now on the vertical
stabilizer and so far everything's going okay, but I haven't reached
the point where I've had to actually rivet anything together yet, so
I don't know for sure how much easier it will be. It does appear as
though a rivet dropped in a hole has a substantially longer tail
poking out that I can bash.
6. I'll also see if I can find someone local who I can hit up for
advice and/or a bit of practical riveting experience with someone
who's been there before.
Again, thanks for everyone's help in getting me going. The advice
given by the members of this list is really invaluable in helping
reducing the likelihood of my making expensive (if not time
consuming) mistakes.
Thanks! Dan
--
Syzygy Research & Technology
Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resale Values |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
>
>
>> I am seriously looking at an RV-8. I am budgeting $75K for the project
>> (new engine). I would like to think that I can get out after a few
>> years of flying for close to my investment, less engine reserves, with
>> zero for my time.
I bought an RV-4 in 2000 for $63K and sold it two years later for $65K. I
think RV maintain or appreciate in value certainly better than any other
experimental aircraft. I have also been involved in pricing and helping to
sell several RVs in the Minneapolis area and all sold for much more than the
builder had into them. Obviously RV-6s and RV-4s may have been stagnant in
light of new and better models to compete against them. But I would feel my
$75K investment in an RV-8 would be sound.;
Doug Weiler
Pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Seats - Classic Aero Designs |
Guys, I just received the seats for my RV-8 from Luke at Classic Aero Designs;
they're
top notch in appearance and workmanship. My seats were made from "Allante AL
Grey" vinyl and everyone who see them swear they look just like leather.
Just wanted to pass this on for your consideration. It's nice when a product exceeds
your expectations
Walt Shipley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Fromm" <jfromm1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV and Manual trim |
Dave,
I know just what you're talking about. I did RTV mine at final assembly,
but I left it alone to allow the RTV time to cure and didn't really notice
that at full elevator deflection the cable moves fore and aft inside the
rear spar. When I did my first condition inspection a couple of months ago,
I did notice it and also noticed that because of that motion, the cable had
pulled free of the RTV. That disturbed me and I carefully checked the
sheath for wear but thankfully didn't detect any. This is after 100 hours.
I'm sure it will eventually wear through, but how many hours that will take,
I have no way of knowing. I figured that when I put the plane in the paint
shop and had the elevator off I would try to come up with some way of better
protecting the cable but I honestly don't know how it can be done. Even if
you could manage to fit something around the sheath it's only going to
restrict its movement and further add to the stick forces. A check of the
archives didn't yield any better ideas.
Jack Fromm
RV-8 QB 81120
Flying - 110 hours
<>
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Seats - Classic Aero Designs |
| From: | "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
Cool! Got some pics?
Smitty
http://SmittysRV.com
>
> Guys, I just received the seats for my RV-8 from Luke at Classic Aero
> Designs; they're
> top notch in appearance and workmanship. My seats were made from "Allante
> AL
> Grey" vinyl and everyone who see them swear they look just like leather.
>
> Just wanted to pass this on for your consideration. It's nice when a
> product exceeds
> your expectations
>
> Walt Shipley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
2005 FAR/AIMs by Jeppesen
Private Pilot Test Guides - 2005
Instrument Pilot Test Guides - 2005
Commercial Pilot Test Guides - 2005
A&P Airframe Test Guides - 2005
Every year when these items revise to the next edition, we have a certain
number still on the shelf that we send back the covers for credit and then
discard the otherwise complete book. I'm never happy doing this since the
books are still perfectly good regarding its content and purpose. So, this
year, while they last, we'll give them away Free to anyone who wants them
along with any other regular order from Builders Bookstore or PilotsBooks.
the rules:
1] Get a maximum of one of each title (five books) free with any order of
any size. Don't feel guilty about getting all five books free when your
order is nothing more than a sectional chart. I really just want to not
have to throw them away.
2] If you place your order by phone, just tell us you which ones you want.
If you place your order on the web site, write what you want in the special
instructions box on the on-line order form. Don't hit "add to cart" for
these or you'll get the 2006 editions and get charged for them.
3] On the 2005 FAR/AIMs, you have a choice of without covers for free, or an
intact one with covers for $11. Specify which you want. The $11 intact
book still qualifies you for the Test Guides for free.
4] We'll run this special till October 21st or untill they run out.
Thanks,
Andy
800 780-4115
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
PilotsBooks
www.PilotsBooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RTV and Manual trim |
Something you might consider. While there is not room for cable grommets,
you might consider a section of tubing of some of the abrasive resistant
plastics. They are much thinner than a grommet, are flexible and certainly
less messy than RTV. If you have not installed the cable, you might
consider getting a length of (5/8" dia or whatever dia the cable is plus
1/8" larger) plastic tubing and cut a 6 -8" long section out and slip it
over the end of your cable. A plastic electric tie or even safety wire
around each end should hold it to the trim cable in the area you want. Put
the ties where this is no likelihood of it hanging up on a flange, etc.
McMaster.com has a large selection of tubing that might be suitable with a
description
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Something like the PTFE & PFA Tubing looks like it might work.
Ed A
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Fromm" <jfromm1(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RTV and Manual trim
>
> Dave,
>
> I know just what you're talking about. I did RTV mine at final assembly,
> but I left it alone to allow the RTV time to cure and didn't really notice
> that at full elevator deflection the cable moves fore and aft inside the
> rear spar. When I did my first condition inspection a couple of months
> ago,
> I did notice it and also noticed that because of that motion, the cable
> had
> pulled free of the RTV. That disturbed me and I carefully checked the
> sheath for wear but thankfully didn't detect any. This is after 100
> hours.
> I'm sure it will eventually wear through, but how many hours that will
> take,
> I have no way of knowing. I figured that when I put the plane in the
> paint
> shop and had the elevator off I would try to come up with some way of
> better
> protecting the cable but I honestly don't know how it can be done. Even
> if
> you could manage to fit something around the sheath it's only going to
> restrict its movement and further add to the stick forces. A check of the
> archives didn't yield any better ideas.
>
> Jack Fromm
> RV-8 QB 81120
> Flying - 110 hours
>
> < RTV'd and
> what kind of cable wear occured at the spar and rib penetrations.>>
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <n1cxo320(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Resale Values |
Well, Ron, I am at 7489-ft (0V2) and routinely fly into and out of
Leadville at a few short of 10,000 with my 160-HP Lycoming in my RV6A and
have no problems, and see 175TAS at 2,300 rpm and 6.1 gph...you can use
whatever HP you wish, but unless its just a macho thing, I can't see that it
is needed. FWIW
John at Salida, CO
>
> One suggestion. Do not install an engine with less than 180 HP.
> IMO, I would not even look at it so it has ZERO value to me. Applies
> to RV-6, -7 as well
>
> Careful on paint job.
>
> Ron Lee
> 00V at 6840' MSL
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flamini2" <flamini2(at)comcast.net> |
Just heard N256H an RV10A on the scanner in Chicago climbing to 9,500 on way to
Grand Rapids.
Registered to INDIGENOUS PEOPLES TECHNOLOGY & EDUCATION CTR INC
built by Steve Saint Dunnellon, Florida.
Dennis in Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poor Handling RV |
Howdy,
I reported, a while back, on an RV I had the privilege of flying that I
thought had unpleasant handling.
It took longer than expected to install a new, longer, stick along with new
grip and new wiring for elevator and aileron trim along with new relay
decks.
Today, I was able to fly the RV-6 with it's new configuration.
To me, the airplane is pretty much transformed. Instead of needing great
concentration to fly well or land acceptably it feels natural and easy to
fly. This airplane is more nose heavy than mine, because of a constant
speed propeller, and is heavier on the elevator, but that is an esthetic
consideration, more than a safety one. I prefer the handling of my, nose
lighter, RV, but enjoy flying this one thoroughly.
A lister wanted to know about stick lengths, but during this conversion I
found that stick lengths are pretty much irrelevant because of the
variations in grips and where they put your hand in relation to the top of
the stick. The grip we bought from Van's puts your hand much higher than
the grip that was installed on the airplane. If one was to compare, I think
distance to the top of the index finger, would be what one is interested in.
On this airplane, a lot of stick trimming was necessary to clear
obstructions in the cockpit; I think it would be nicer with more stick
length.
My advice would be to make the stick as long as possible, but that is just
my opinion.
See yall at LOE.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob rundle" <bobrundle2(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | One antenna or two? |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
I have a dual comm set-up. Trying to decide whether to have 2 antennas or a
splitter (and single antenna).
Opinions?
Bob R
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: One antenna or two? |
I'm considering the same thing and already purchased the splitter.....
Here's what I'm looking forward to:
One antenna - less parasitic drag
Here's what I'm worried about:
Single antenna - single point of failure......
Not being able to have both pilot and copilot transmitting on diff radios/diff
freqs at the same time.
Wiring it all up - good instructions - just time consuming.......
My .02
Ralph Capen
RV6A N822AR N06 90% / 90%
-----Original Message-----
From: bob rundle <bobrundle2(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: One antenna or two?
I have a dual comm set-up. Trying to decide whether to have 2 antennas or a
splitter (and single antenna).
Opinions?
Bob R
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: One antenna or two? |
I'm planning on putting a belly whip for com1 and then an archer wingtip
antenna for com2. This gives you two antennas, but with the same drag
as a single whip ;) From what I hear the wingtip ones will work pretty
well in most conditions, so as the second comm it should suffice pretty
well.
James
#40400
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>I'm considering the same thing and already purchased the splitter.....
>
>Here's what I'm looking forward to:
>
>One antenna - less parasitic drag
>
>Here's what I'm worried about:
>
>Single antenna - single point of failure......
>Not being able to have both pilot and copilot transmitting on diff radios/diff
freqs at the same time.
>Wiring it all up - good instructions - just time consuming.......
>
>My .02
>Ralph Capen
>RV6A N822AR N06 90% / 90%
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: bob rundle <bobrundle2(at)hotmail.com>
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: One antenna or two?
>
>
>I have a dual comm set-up. Trying to decide whether to have 2 antennas or a
>splitter (and single antenna).
>
>Opinions?
>
>Bob R
>
>http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One antenna or two? |
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Whatever you do, be certain you are isolating the com receive of each
radio from the transmitter of the other, via switch or other physical
disconnect mechanism, or you will fry the receiver of one of them.
linn walters said:
>
> Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>>
>>I'm considering the same thing and already purchased the splitter.....
>>
>>Here's what I'm looking forward to:
>>
>>One antenna - less parasitic drag
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | free books all gone |
The free FAR/AIMs and test guide books mentioned yesterday are all gone.
Thanks,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: One antenna or two? |
You're correct - I should have said switch......not splitter
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: One antenna or two?
Whatever you do, be certain you are isolating the com receive of each
radio from the transmitter of the other, via switch or other physical
disconnect mechanism, or you will fry the receiver of one of them.
linn walters said:
>
> Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>>
>>I'm considering the same thing and already purchased the splitter.....
>>
>>Here's what I'm looking forward to:
>>
>>One antenna - less parasitic drag
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One antenna or two? |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
----------------------
I have a dual comm set-up. Trying to decide whether to have 2 antennas
or a
splitter (and single antenna).
Opinions?
Bob R
---------------------
I suggest asking this question on the AeroElectric List. As Kelly
pointed out, there are real dangers trying to use one antenna for 2 Comm
radios, which is why I don't think I've ever seen it done in more years
than I want to admit of flying.
The drag on an antenna isn't much, but James' approach (use one Archer
Comm antenna) is better than a splitter IMHO if you really only want one
stick in the breeze.
Dennis Glaeser
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Sweet" <w_sweet(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: One antenna or two? |
It is my understanding that for comm radios, each one must have it's own
antenna. For NAV's, splitters are very common.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: One antenna or two?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "bob rundle"
>
>
> I have a dual comm set-up. Trying to decide whether to have 2 antennas or
> a
> splitter (and single antenna).
>
> Opinions?
>
> Bob R
>
> http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Resale Values |
> Allow me to jump in here and say that as a 160 hp upgrade owner, I'd go
back in a heartbeat if >I had the engine apart for anything else.
And we have found that we have a hard time getting 2000 hours out of a 160
horse engine, and no problem getting 2500 and beyond from a stock 150.
Although at the rate that most but Rosie put hours on the plane it's
probably not much of a factor...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
| Subject: | Finished my HS!! |
Just finished my Horizontal Stabilizer on my RV-9A. (Jes' had to tell
somebody)
Here's a pic:
http://smittysrv.com/big_photo.asp?id=10142005_03.jpg
Smitty's RV-9A
http://SmittysRV.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: One antenna or two? |
Bob Archer (Sportcraft Antenna's) has an active COM switch that allows a
single COM antenna for a dual COM's. pn SA-010
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 10/14/2005 11:51:32 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
You're correct - I should have said switch......not splitter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One antenna or two? |
Where can I buy one at?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,795 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: One antenna or two?
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 19:51:36 EDT
Bob Archer (Sportcraft Antenna's) has an active COM switch that allows a
single COM antenna for a dual COM's. pn SA-010
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 10/14/2005 11:51:32 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
You're correct - I should have said switch......not splitter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis " <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu> |
| Subject: | Parallel Fuel Line for IO-540 (that bypasses the engine driven |
fuel pump)
Listers,
There are some intersting fuel system design suggestions in
<http://www.rv8.ch/staticpages/index.php?page 030914230507849> (or
<http://www.ellison-fluid-
systems.com/article/fuelsystemsforhomebuilts/fuelsystems.htm>)
In particular, to minimize the chance of vapor lock, "Fuel Routing should be direct
from boost pump through filter to carburetor or fuel injector servo. Have engine
driven pump plumbed in parallel, not series, so that possible vapor lock in engine
driven pump will be bypassed. A check valve may be necessary, depending on pump
type."
I'm considering using this approach on my RV-10 (IO-540). In the approach I'm
considering the fuel line will "T" after the high pressure boost pump output (aft
of
firewall). One branch will go thru the engine driven pump. The other branch will
go
thru an Andair check valve then "T" with the output of the engine driven fuel pump,
at
which point a single line will go forward to the injection system servo/throttle.
With
this setup the boost pump will be able to supply fuel to the injection system even
if
the engine drive boost pump is blocked.
Does anybody know of any significant downside to this approach?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
RV-6A N47TD - 790 hrs
RV-10 N31TD (reserved) - under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: One antenna or two? |
Call Bob Archer. (310) 316-8796
Or email Bob at _bobsantennas(at)earthlink.com_
(mailto:bobsantennas(at)earthlink.com)
Regards,
Jim
In a message dated 10/14/2005 5:40:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer"
Where can I buy one at?
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,795 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: One antenna or two?
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 19:51:36 EDT
Bob Archer (Sportcraft Antenna's) has an active COM switch that allows a
single COM antenna for a dual COM's. pn SA-010
Regards,
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finished my HS!! |
Smitty,
Congratulations! You're on your way. How do I know?
My RV 6A just flew last week!! I have fond memories
of doing the EMP. Hang in there, you're gonna love
that plane.
Greg in Honolulu.
--- Smitty wrote:
>
>
> Just finished my Horizontal Stabilizer on my RV-9A.
> (Jes' had to tell
> somebody)
>
> Here's a pic:
>
>
http://smittysrv.com/big_photo.asp?id=10142005_03.jpg
>
> Smitty's RV-9A
> http://SmittysRV.com
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Finished my HS!! |
Smitty
>From: "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Finished my HS!!
>Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 17:54:02 -0500
>
>
>Just finished my Horizontal Stabilizer on my RV-9A. (Jes' had to tell
>somebody)
>
>Here's a pic:
>
>http://smittysrv.com/big_photo.asp?id=10142005_03.jpg
>
>Smitty's RV-9A
>http://SmittysRV.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Finished my HS!! |
Smitty
Looks like A1 Quality work
Frank @ SGU and SLC
>From: "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Finished my HS!!
>Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 17:54:02 -0500
>
>
>Just finished my Horizontal Stabilizer on my RV-9A. (Jes' had to tell
>somebody)
>
>Here's a pic:
>
>http://smittysrv.com/big_photo.asp?id=10142005_03.jpg
>
>Smitty's RV-9A
>http://SmittysRV.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone actually hooked up a 396 to GTX330 transponder and gotten the
traffic display to work?
I have been trying without success, and receiving no useful help from
Garmin. Tried two different 396's and two different 330's. All seem to
give the "waiting for data" message which indicates, according to the
manual, that a valid data stream has not been received. It should show
"data unavailable" which means connection to the transponder established,
but no TIS is available.
Twice it has announced "TIS unavailable" when descending below the radar
coverage altitude. No other audio messages or alerts.
These tests have been done in a Mode-S TIS area.
Information from anyone who has done it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Stan
N67SL (reserved)
RV7-A
KCCB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Question on Lycoming crankcase spec |
Folks,
I am curious to know what the spec is for concentricity of the main bearing journals
within a
Lycoming case. Can anybody tell me what this is and if it is a requirement to confirm
this when
'tagging' a 'case?
My question is prompted by a broken crank story in an alternate engine. I cannot
believe combustion
pressures alone can induce sufficient bending to cause a crank failure after ~20
hours nitrided or not.
See http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/ for the story, sorry it is unrelated to RVs.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Russell" <rer51(at)netscape.ca> |
I have just installed the C627 spring on the WD620 canopy jettison handle. Spring
won't compress enough to allow release pins to clear WD716 canopy frame for
jettison. Checked for proper clocking of WD619 canopy release shaft, and ears
point outboard as directed. Without the spring everything works perfectly.
It appears that the spring is too heavy a guage to permit the almost 3 to 1 compression
required by the full stroke. Any experiences on this? RV9A finishing
C-FYOO (reserve) Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Jettison |
Hi distance to the back of the instrument panel and the rollpin/splitpin is
quite critical for smooth operation.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Russell" <rer51(at)netscape.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Jettison
>
> I have just installed the C627 spring on the WD620 canopy jettison handle.
> Spring won't compress enough to allow release pins to clear WD716 canopy
> frame for jettison. Checked for proper clocking of WD619 canopy release
> shaft, and ears point outboard as directed. Without the spring everything
> works perfectly. It appears that the spring is too heavy a guage to permit
> the almost 3 to 1 compression required by the full stroke. Any
> experiences on this? RV9A finishing C-FYOO (reserve) Randy
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Resale values-horsepower |
The Superior engine runs on premium UL and puts out 180+ HP out of the box.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>If you look at the Lycoming specs you'll see that they also offered a
>version of their 0-360 parallel valve engine with low compression pistons
>(7.5-1). This engine runs on 80/87 octane and puts out 168 horsepower.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Resale values-horsepower / fuel |
If you look at the Lycoming O-360 A1A that Van's sells, it runs on 91 / 96
fuel. Look on the Data Plate or Lycoming SI-1070. Since the lower octane
avgas that the engine was certified on is no longer available, we use the
100LL. When a LEAD free fuel is FORCED on the aviation community, the Turbo
guys are the ones that will be hurting.
Check out the Type Certificate Data Sheet E00001SC for the Superior O-360.
Same bore, same stroke, same compression as the Lycoming. Why was one
engine able to use Motor Gasoline (R+M/2) (See Note 7) ASTM D4814, Min
Octane 91 (no alcohol) and the other did not?
For the best resale value on an RV, it MUST have a constant speed prop.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,798 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
>If you look at the Lycoming specs you'll see that they also offered a
>version of their 0-360 parallel valve engine with low compression pistons
>(7.5-1). This engine runs on 80/87 octane and puts out 168 horsepower.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Updated pic of the old Easter Egg RV-6A |
This was taken this morning at Leadville CO. Smooth flight
both ways. 14,500' over and 15,500' back. RVs are great.
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/Leadville16Oct05.jpg
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Left over switches |
Hi Listers,
I have toggle and momentary switches left over from building my RV-6A.
The toggle switches are in two sizes: miniature (1/4") and standard
(7/16"). They are all new, never used, with original nuts and washers.
Many are in their original packages. They were purchased from B&C and
Digi-Key. I'll let the whole batch go for $35.
They are:
1 - DPDT, miniature toggle, (ON)-OFF-ON, solder
4 - SPDT, miniature toggle, ON-NONE-ON, solder
1 - SPDT, miniature toggle, locking in either position, ON-NONE-ON, solder
2 - SPDT toggle (Aeroelectric 1-3), ON-NONE-ON, faston
1 - SPDT toggle(Aeroelectric 1-1), ON-OFF-ON, faston
1 - DPDT toggle,(ON)-OFF-ON, screw terminals,
1 - DPDT toggle, ON-NONE-ON , faston,
4 - SPST, momentary push, miniature, OFF (ON), solder
Richard Dudley
-6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Jettison |
I don't use the spring. The handle is secured in place with a breakable
wire. This also makes gettng the on an off much easier as you don't need the
third hand for the handle.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | I get VOR and GS, no localizer |
I am receiving a good VOR reading and glideslope, but NO localizer on my VOR
head and KX-155. The radio has been bench-tested ok and I get the ILS morse
code identifier, it just does not read on the VOR head. Does anyone have
any idea where I start to troubleshoot???
Thanks,
Kim Nicholas
RV9A Auburn, Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | I get VOR and GS, no localizer |
Wiring from the radio to the nav head.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: I get VOR and GS, no localizer
I am receiving a good VOR reading and glideslope, but NO localizer on my
VOR
head and KX-155. The radio has been bench-tested ok and I get the ILS
morse
code identifier, it just does not read on the VOR head. Does anyone have
any idea where I start to troubleshoot???
Thanks,
Kim Nicholas
RV9A Auburn, Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I get VOR and GS, no localizer |
It sounds like the trouble is probably in the head. If the VOR works
then the VOR/LOC signal is getting to the head and the localizer should
also work. The only other wire that could cause it would be the ILS
energize wire which is pin 8 on the KX155, and pin K on a KI203/204 or
pin 4 on a KI208/209.
The best way to test it is to borrow another head or have yours bench
checked.
Dave B -6 So Cal
Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I am receiving a good VOR reading and glideslope, but NO localizer on my VOR
>head and KX-155. The radio has been bench-tested ok and I get the ILS morse
>code identifier, it just does not read on the VOR head. Does anyone have
>any idea where I start to troubleshoot???
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kim Nicholas
>RV9A Auburn, Washington
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob rundle" <bobrundle2(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Propeller Decisions |
I have made the decision to use a constant speed prop on my airplane for
several reasons including desired increased take-off performance at gross
weight from my 'short' runway.
Now which one? I want mild aerobatic capability.
I would like to reduce weight because I have some extra weight items up
front already. For this reason I'm leaning towards MT or Whirlwind.
Questions:
1. I often see 3 bladed MT props. Why not 2 blades? Anyone have a 2 blade?
Is it as smooth?
2. Does anyone remember the test Van's did with different props? Where can I
find this article?
3. Hydraulic or electrically controlled. Right now I'm leaning towards
hydraulic for facter pitch changes plus the fact that my dash is full.
Any experiences out there would be great!!!
Bob R
RV7A
IO-360 180 hp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Rivet Squeezer and Longeron yoke for sale |
I have a US tools pneumatic squeezer and yoke for sale. Squeezer has quick
change pins and adjustable ram. New price today for these items is $535.00.
my price $400. Includes shipping anywhere in continental US. Pic's and
details in classified page at www.sacrvators.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? |
I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a
little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief
test run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened
everything and am anxious to see how they perform.
Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When
installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the
gasket?
Any insight is much appreciated.
Dean Pichon
RV-4, 300 hours
Bolton, MA
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? |
Dean Pichon wrote:
>
>I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a
>little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief test
run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened everything
and am anxious to see how they perform.
>
You will be pleased.
>Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets?
>
All good. They'll last longer than cork gaskets and are reuseable. You
might take the covers without gaskets, fit them to the head and lightly
hammer the 'face' of the cover flat. Over the years folks that have
been trying to stop cork gaskets from leaking have deformed the covers
by tightening the screws far beyond their recommended torque. I don't
have my manual handy, but that figure is surprisingly low.
> When installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the
gasket?
>
No.
>Any insight is much appreciated.
>
Best I can do.
Linn
>
>Dean Pichon
>RV-4, 300 hours
>Bolton, MA
>
>http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Any using silicone Valve Cover Gaskets? |
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
What you are talking about is valve cover gaskets. Aircraft cylinders
don't have head gaskets like cars, the head is screwed onto the cylinder
barrel in an interference fit by heating the head and cooling the barrel.
Silcone valve cover gaskets are the way to go, IMHO. Commonally available
from all aviation parts places. They require MUCH less torque than cork
gaskets. You want the screws just snugged enough they won't back out, not
as tight as you can get them. Usually they come with instructions that
give a very low in/lb torque value. If the gasket is squeezing out with
any deformation it is too tight, and just as prone to leaking. Loosen all
the screws and then re-tighten. It doesn't take much after you feel the
screw starting to compress the gasket.
> Dean Pichon wrote:
>
>>
>>I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a
>>little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. >>
>>Dean Pichon
>>RV-4, 300 hours
>>Bolton, MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Propeller Decisions |
Bob,
See:
http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Prop.htm
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob rundle
Subject: RV-List: Propeller Decisions
I have made the decision to use a constant speed prop on my airplane for
several reasons including desired increased take-off performance at
gross
weight from my 'short' runway.
Now which one? I want mild aerobatic capability.
I would like to reduce weight because I have some extra weight items up
front already. For this reason I'm leaning towards MT or Whirlwind.
Questions:
1. I often see 3 bladed MT props. Why not 2 blades? Anyone have a 2
blade?
Is it as smooth?
2. Does anyone remember the test Van's did with different props? Where
can I
find this article?
3. Hydraulic or electrically controlled. Right now I'm leaning towards
hydraulic for facter pitch changes plus the fact that my dash is full.
Any experiences out there would be great!!!
Bob R
RV7A
IO-360 180 hp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? |
On 10/17 12:38, Dean Pichon wrote:
>
> I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a
> little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief
> test run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened
> everything and am anxious to see how they perform.
Be careful about over torqueing them, you can make the situation
worse. Just the slightest amount of torque is needed on the screws.
I don't remember the exact torque spec, but it's very light.
> Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When
> installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the
> gasket?
No sealant is supposed to be used. Carefully clean the mating
surface of the cylinder with a good oil/grease remover. Clean
the silicone gasket with soap and water and dry well. Both
surfaces should be clean and dry. Install with no sealant.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <William.P.Dube(at)noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 |
I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank
on my RV-7.
Where is the best place to put the return line?
Thanks in advance,
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? |
In a message dated 10/17/05 11:41:39 AM Central Daylight Time,
deanpichon(at)msn.com writes:
> Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When
> installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the
> gasket?
>>>
Did the same on mine after initial fire-up and they didn't leak a bit with no
sealant- I just cleaned the head and covers thoroughly and tightened the
screws until they started squishing out a bit. Check for any interferences
between the covers and the edges of the baffling that might be keeping the covers
from pulling down and that the covers are not warped by laying them on a flat
surface...
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 |
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
What engine/fuel injection combo are you going with?
Lycoming IO-360 with standard Bendix RSA injection doesn't require/use a
return line.
Bill Dube said:
>
> I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank
> on my RV-7.
>
> Where is the best place to put the return line?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill Dube'
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [RV7Yahoo] Propeller Decisions |
Why not look at the Whirlwind RV200? This is composite prop, US made and is
showing great performance. I have not flown mine yet but have talked to
several who have considerable time on theirs. They are happy with the
performance and customer service. This is a hydraulic prop. I am using the
Jihostro governor from Van's.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Propeller Decisions
>I have made the decision to use a constant speed prop on my airplane for
> several reasons including desired increased take-off performance at gross
> weight from my 'short' runway.
>
> Now which one? I want mild aerobatic capability.
>
> I would like to reduce weight because I have some extra weight items up
> front already. For this reason I'm leaning towards MT or Whirlwind.
>
> Questions:
> 1. I often see 3 bladed MT props. Why not 2 blades? Anyone have a 2
> blade?
> Is it as smooth?
>
> 2. Does anyone remember the test Van's did with different props? Where can
> I
> find this article?
>
> 3. Hydraulic or electrically controlled. Right now I'm leaning towards
> hydraulic for facter pitch changes plus the fact that my dash is full.
>
> Any experiences out there would be great!!!
>
> Bob R
> RV7A
> IO-360 180 hp
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>
>
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/dpRU5A/wUILAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
>
>
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV7and7A-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 |
Bill,
I put my return line near the bottom directly under the vent line, I did
this on both tanks. This will leave my options open as to which tank I will
return to. I guess you could put it anywhere on the rib that you want. If
you want a picture, I can send you one direct.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9 N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Dube
Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7
I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank
on my RV-7.
Where is the best place to put the return line?
Thanks in advance,
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
Did any of you who managed to go to OSH this year pump the Honda/Continental people
for information? Honda is notorious for keeping product information close
to the vest prior to release. A quick google search only produced the press release
from 2 years ago with no real numbers and a small picture of the mocked
up motor. I have spoken to 2 local pilots who are claiming that the engine is
supposed to be in the 300 HP range at half the price of the equivalent Lycoming.
The Honda people at OSH when pressed for pricing supposedly responded only
that they were going to "own" the market. All of this is second or third hand
airport chatter and worth only what you are paying for it, soooooo......How bout
some more solid information? Anybody?.......Anybody?
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 |
Put it in down low and plumb it through the first bay into the second bay
before you dump it. If you run it along one of the tank stiffeners you can
proseal it right to the stiffener with a big gob...that will hold forever.
You want to dump it in the second bay so you avoid potentially putting a
bunch of bubbles or froth into the bay with your pick up. Is this a Subaru
conversion?
Cheers...
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <William.P.Dube(at)noaa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7
>
> I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank
> on my RV-7.
>
> Where is the best place to put the return line?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill Dube'
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Propeller Decisions |
Originally the poster mentioned he wanted to do some aerobatics:
The below is a email off of the IAC aerobatic exploder (email list)
reference the whirlwind propeller.
........."I am the airshow pilot with the S1-T and you are incorrect. I
had a pitch pin fail on my 200C propeller twice. First time was about 2.5
years ago, in case they didn't tell you. And the most recent was in May of
this year forcing me into a cow pasture. That incident came within inches
of my life. This time the pitch pin had been disintegrating for some time
and did not just shear off as the first time. And yes, a service bulletin
did go out the first time mine failed, but the service bulletin didn't help
me much after the fact. It might only have prolonged the next failure.
".......
It seems to me that if you fly aerobatics, your constant speed prop takes a
real beating. I have heard from others of their prop overhauls and blade
failures with less than 200 hours (this includes various manufactures, not
just whirlwind). I would recommend that anyone doing aerobatics with a
constant speed prop spend time reviewing the props safety record before
purchasing and then doing a lot of prop inspections after buying.
I personally only fly aerobatics in my RV6 and I use a fixed pitch wooden
prop. I find that my prop and RV6 will beat all performance specs put out
by Van's for a 180 HP engine. The down side of wood, you must retorque
every 25 hours and I do not get prop braking that I would get in a constant
speed, but the price difference allows me to buy 2100 gallons of gas at
$4.91/gal. Also fixed pitch wood prop puts less stress on the engine
during aerobatics than a heavier constant speed or metal prop. Based upon
the data that I have reviewed, my RV would probably go slower if I had a
constant speed prop (just my best guess).
No endorsement or criticism.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | hot cylinder cure |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
Some cylinders run hot simply because the baffles are too tight in the
wrong areas. Specifically the front face of the #2 and the rear face of
the #5 cylinder (540 Lycs) or #3 (4 cylinder Lycs) don't get enough
airflow past the baffles. It's easy to fix with a few washers.
This has been discussed before... but now there's a photo and some text
to make it easier to understand.
http://vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: honda engine |
Maybe I missed it but I didn't see any sign of the Honda piston engine this
year? And I looked for it!
Good Luck,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 Builder - SE Iowa
On 10/17/05, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
> evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
>
> Did any of you who managed to go to OSH this year pump the
> Honda/Continental people for information? Honda is notorious for keeping
> product information close to the vest prior to release. A quick google
> search only produced the press release from 2 years ago with no real numbers
> and a small picture of the mocked up motor. I have spoken to 2 local pilots
> who are claiming that the engine is supposed to be in the 300 HP range at
> half the price of the equivalent Lycoming. The Honda people at OSH when
> pressed for pricing supposedly responded only that they were going to "own"
> the market. All of this is second or third hand airport chatter and worth
> only what you are paying for it, soooooo......How bout some more solid
> information? Anybody?.......Anybody?
>
> Evan Johnson
> www.evansaviationproducts.com <http://www.evansaviationproducts.com>
> (530)247-0375
> (530)351-1776 cell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glaesers" <glaesers(at)wideopenwest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 |
I put mine right in the center of the forward "lightening hole" that isn't
cut out. I ran it in for 3 ribs. I'm in the middle of my second (left)
tank.
Dennis Glaeser
7A
I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank
on my RV-7.
Where is the best place to put the return line?
Thanks in advance,
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank return line placement?, RV-7 |
Bill, I put mine high on the 1st rib so that if there is a leak (or
fracture) in the line it cannot drain the tank. I used an AN-6 bulkhead
fitting. Once inside the tank a small piece of AN-6 alum tube bends down to
just above the lower skin, this helps minimize frothing. There is a small
hole drilled near the top of the tube to prevent siphoning.
Running to the second rib is a reasonable option as well, but is extra work
and weight, and of little value IMHO.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
>
>
> I'm up to my elbows in Pro-seal (ugh.) Building the right fuel tank
> on my RV-7.
>
> Where is the best place to put the return line?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill Dube'
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <William.P.Dube(at)noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Mazda RX-8 engine (was: Fuel tank return line placement?, |
RV-7)
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
>Put it in down low and plumb it through the first bay into the second bay
>before you dump it. If you run it along one of the tank stiffeners you can
>proseal it right to the stiffener with a big gob...that will hold forever.
>You want to dump it in the second bay so you avoid potentially putting a
>bunch of bubbles or froth into the bay with your pick up.
>
Sounds like the perfect way to do it. Is there any structure on the fuse
at the wing root that I should avoid hitting?
> Is this a Subaru
>conversion?
>
>
Actually an 2005 RX-8 Mazda Rotary. Puts out 248 HP stock, normally
aspirated. Firewall forward weighs less than a Lyc 360 (including the
cooling system.) Costs about a third as much. Quite a bit of custom
work, however. Lots of components available, but no turn-key package.
You have to build your own intake manifold and exhaust manifold, for
example. Fortunately, all the hard stuff like the injection electronics,
PSRU, and engine mount are off-the-shelf products.
The engine itself is probably more robust than a Lyc. Very few
moving parts. You can swallow a chunk of metal and they continue to run.
You can also run them out of water and they continue to run (for
awhile.) No problem running lean of peak. No one that I know of has had
a dead stick from internal engine problems. Tracy Crook has over 1450
hours on his rotary-powered RV-4. <http://www.rotaryaviation.com/>
The main reliability issues are the custom stuff you can't buy and
have to do yourself. Bad design on the fuel system has caused a few
silent flights. Bad wiring layout has also caused some problems.
Getting the cooling right can be tricky too. I suppose these same sort
of things have caused grief in certified engine aircraft as well.
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Hi Listers,
Thanks to everyone who responded with interest in my extra switches.
They are sold to the person who was first to respond.
Regards and good luck building,
Richard Dudley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Hi Listers,
I have two vintage aviation headsets in good and working condition and a
Push-To-Talk Switch that someone might have a use for. They are:
- Telex Model A610, TSO C57, Cat B headset.
- Pacific Plantronics Model MS50/T30-3, TSO C57 & C58 earset
- Telex PT-200 Push-To-Talk Switch
You can find the Plantronics set on page 103 in the one of the latest
Sportys catalogs. If you call for price Sporty's quotes $169. This is
used but in good condition.
Neither headset has ANR. Both have been tested in my aircraft.
The PTT switch is for aircraft without internal PTT and the connectors
are compatible with standard microphone plugs and jacks. It is like the
one on page 107 of Sportys.
you could take all for $60.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
RV-6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers |
List, I bought a set of teak stick grips and need to find a source for the rubber
dust covers that go over the switch. Called Aircraft Spruce to try and buy
a couple spares but no luck.
Anyone know the manufacture? Any leads on a source would be greatly appreciated.
Tom in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? |
Any sealant under the gasket acts to lubricate the new gasket and allow it
to slide out from under the valve cover. I have had good luck with the spray
gasket adhesive, its sorta like contact cement. If used on the valve cover
side of the gasket to glue it in place it makes disassembly easier later,
and holds the gasket from sliding around.
.02
Steve d
n221rv
I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a
little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief
test run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened
everything and am anxious to see how they perform.
Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When
installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the
gasket?
Any insight is much appreciated.
Dean Pichon
RV-4, 300 hours
Bolton, MA
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Teak Stick Grip switch dust covers |
In a message dated 10/17/2005 6:24:29 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dan(at)rvproject.com writes:
Very early on, my pant leg caught on my PTT switch and tore the dust cover
off. I just left it like that. I actually like the more affirmative feel
of the switch better without the dust cover.
====================================
I agree that the switch action is better without those bogus dust covers. I
would just cut the damn things off and use just the dress nut.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 767hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Lammers <lammers.david(at)mcleodusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Any using silicone Cyinder Head Gaskets? |
Dean,
You need to bring the torque up gradually and uniformly as you tighten
any head gasket.
Start by "hand tightening" all so that the surface is planar and
parallel with the gasket but just touching.
Now establish a tightening pattern. Start with one screw and torque to
about 25%, then torque the opposite one the same, then pick another as
far removed from the line between the first two and torque it 25% then
the one across from it and so on. Then start all over torqueing to 50%,
then 75% etc.
The reason they leak is that the mounting surface on the head cover gets
warped from mis-torqueing and can never seal uniformly around the seal.
You can check for this by laying them on an absolutely flat plate and
see if the gasket surface is uniformly on the surface or is there a bow.
If they are bowed, go get some new ones and always carefully torque them
as described.
Never never overtorque. That's how the covers get warped. I've used
silicone on my -6 and Pitts before that and they work great.
Regards,
Dave Lammers
RV-6 N6X 650 hrs
RV-10 under construction
Dean Pichon wrote:
>
>
>I just replaced the cork cylinder head gaskets (that have always leaked a
>little) with a set of silicone gaskets purchased from Van's. After a brief
>test run-up, I found two gaskets leaking a little, so I re-tightened
>everything and am anxious to see how they perform.
>
>Has anyone had good or bad experiences with these silicone gaskets? When
>installing them, is a liquid sealant ever used in conjunction with the
>gasket?
>
>Any insight is much appreciated.
>
>Dean Pichon
>RV-4, 300 hours
>Bolton, MA
>
>http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "czechsix(at)juno.com" <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Usable fuel RV-7/8 |
Guys,
Can anybody tell me what their measured usable fuel quantity is in an RV-7/8 series?
I know Vans numbers say 42 gal total and I imagine most of that is usable.
I want to placard my panel now if there's a reasonable consensus and will
risk having to change it later if my own measurements are different. I can't
imagine it varies much on these prepunched kits....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D getting close....(definition of "close" is that I may be flying "soon",
which is anytime between a couple months from now and a couple years from now...depending
on what else life conspires to bring my way in an effort to prolong
1st flight indefinitely...)
Guys,
Can anybody tell me what their measured usable fuel quantity is in an RV-7/8 series?
I know Vans numbers say 42 gal total and I imagine most of that is usable.
I want to placard my panel now if there's a reasonable consensus and will risk
having to change it later if my own measurements are different. I can't imagine
it varies much on these prepunched kits....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D getting close....(definition of "close" is that I may be flying "soon",
which is anytime between a couple months from now and a couple years from now...depending
on what else life conspires to bring my way in an effort to prolong
1st flight indefinitely...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Usable fuel RV-7/8 |
On my RV-7 with flop tubes in both tanks, I ran a couple of different
tests...
Test 1: On the GROUND, I pumped both tanks dry using the boost pump...
LEFT: 175ml (0.05 gal) unusable
RIGHT: 160ml (0.04 gal) unusable
http://rvproject.com/images/2004/20040307_unusable_fuel_right.jpg
Test 2: Later, in FLIGHT, I ran both tanks dry in flight (on separate
occasions, thank you). I found there was less than 0.3 gallons unusable in
each tank. Note: when doing this test, as soon as fuel pressure dumped and
the engine sputtered, I switched tanks. I may have been able to burn
slightly more fuel if I had allowed the engine to sputter longer. But for
all intents and purposes, there were 0.3 gallons left in the tank at the
point where any sane pilot would switch tanks.
My tanks are dead nuts on 42.0 gallons total capacity. So in flight, I have
41.4 gallons usable and 0.6 gallons unusable.
From what I've heard, you can potentially have more usable fuel with
standard pickups instead of flop tubes. YMMV.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Usable fuel RV-7/8
>
> Guys,
> Can anybody tell me what their measured usable fuel quantity is in an
> RV-7/8 series? I know Vans numbers say 42 gal total and I imagine most of
> that is usable. I want to placard my panel now if there's a reasonable
> consensus and will risk having to change it later if my own measurements
> are different. I can't imagine it varies much on these prepunched
> kits....
> Thanks,
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D getting close....(definition of "close" is that I may be flying
> "soon", which is anytime between a couple months from now and a couple
> years from now...depending on what else life conspires to bring my way in
> an effort to prolong 1st flight indefinitely...)
>
>
> Guys,
>
>
> Can anybody tell me what their measured usable fuel quantity is in an
> RV-7/8 series? I know Vans numbers say 42 gal total and I imagine most of
> that is usable. I want to placard my panel now if there's a reasonable
> consensus and will risk having to change it later if my own measurements
> are different. I can't imagine it varies much on these prepunched kits....
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> --Mark Navratil
>
>
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>
>
> RV-8A N2D getting close....(definition of "close" is that I may be flying
> "soon", which is anytime between a couple months from now and a couple
> years from now...depending on what else life conspires to bring my way in
> an effort to prolong 1st flight indefinitely...)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Lukasczyk" <Lukasczyk(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | camera in the tail |
Hi Lucky
What about a camera on the wing? I am currently testing a wing-mount for my
Videocamera. I made it from fiberglass and ACRYL-FOAM. It just gets taped to
the wing and you can take it off in a minute.
http://www.rv-4.de/gallerie/Detail1_img/KHF.jpg
A Testvideo ist here:
http://www.rv-4.de/videos.htm
Happy Landings
Thomas, RV-4
--
Lust, ein paar Euro nebenbei zu verdienen? Ohne Kosten, ohne Risiko!
Satte Provisionen fr GMX Partner: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/partner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vern W." <highflight1(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: honda engine |
Wasn't the Honda aircraft engine sitting on a shelf over there in a corner
next to the TCM-GAP engine? You know, where they keep the invisible aircraft
engines that people make once in a while and talk about excitedly before
putting them on that shelf in the corner ... :-)
Vern
On 10/17/05, Bob C. wrote:
>
>
> Maybe I missed it but I didn't see any sign of the Honda piston engine
> this
> year? And I looked for it!
> Good Luck,
> Bob Christensen
> RV-8 Builder - SE Iowa
>
> On 10/17/05, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
> >
> > evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
> >
> > Did any of you who managed to go to OSH this year pump the
> > Honda/Continental people for information? Honda is notorious for keeping
> > product information close to the vest prior to release. A quick google
> > search only produced the press release from 2 years ago with no real
> numbers
> > and a small picture of the mocked up motor. I have spoken to 2 local
> pilots
> > who are claiming that the engine is supposed to be in the 300 HP range
> at
> > half the price of the equivalent Lycoming. The Honda people at OSH when
> > pressed for pricing supposedly responded only that they were going to
> "own"
> > the market. All of this is second or third hand airport chatter and
> worth
> > only what you are paying for it, soooooo......How bout some more solid
> > information? Anybody?.......Anybody?
> >
> > Evan Johnson
> > www.evansaviationproducts.com <http://www.evansaviationproducts.com> <
> http://www.evansaviationproducts.com>
> > (530)247-0375
> > (530)351-1776 cell
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Kugler" <donkugler(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Usable fuel RV-7/8 |
Mark,
I recenlty did this exercise to re-verify the usealbe fuel in my -8.
You're right. It's almost all useable. So much so, if you're concerned
about it, you're cutting it way too close!.
First of all my tanks hold what Van's says they do. 21 gallons side a
+/- few ounces when filled to the brim. Unusable fuel is: Left tank -
6oz, right tank 2oz. My left tank has a flop tube. Your actual results
may vary depending on the installation of the pickup tubes. Just make
sure they go all the way to the bottom inside corner of the tank..
Verifed all this by leveling the aircraft in flight attitude and then
pumpming each tank dry with the electric pump. Start with just a few
gallons in each side so it doesn't take forever. I disconnected the
fuel line at the fuel servo and let go into a bucket. Then I drained
and measured what was left out of each tank fuel drain into a cup.
Followed by filling each tank to re-verify total capacity.
-Don
Don Kugler
don(at)earthlink.net
RV8 - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | camera in the tail |
Outstanding videos Thomas!!
I used Google to translate the descriptions:
http://tinyurl.com/c9nlx
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thomas Lukasczyk [mailto:Lukasczyk(at)gmx.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 6:01 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: camera in the tail
>
>
> Hi Lucky
>
> What about a camera on the wing? I am currently testing a
> wing-mount for my Videocamera. I made it from fiberglass and
> ACRYL-FOAM. It just gets taped to the wing and you can take
> it off in a minute.
>
> http://www.rv-4.de/gallerie/Detail1_img/KHF.jpg
>
> A Testvideo ist here:
>
> http://www.rv-4.de/videos.htm
>
> Happy Landings
>
> Thomas, RV-4
>
>
> --
> Lust, ein paar Euro nebenbei zu verdienen? Ohne Kosten, ohne Risiko!
> Satte Provisionen fr GMX Partner: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/partner
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Usable fuel RV-7/8 |
version=3.0.3
Lately, (actually, after the AirVenture Cup race) I have been wondering
if it would be the same at 100 mph as at 200. When I tested mine, at
cruise speed, I got the same results as Dan and Don, but I wonder about
the attitude change in the pattern. Haven't tested it yet.
John
Don Kugler wrote:
>
>Mark,
>
>I recenlty did this exercise to re-verify the usealbe fuel in my -8.
>You're right. It's almost all useable. So much so, if you're concerned
>about it, you're cutting it way too close!.
>
>First of all my tanks hold what Van's says they do. 21 gallons side a
>+/- few ounces when filled to the brim. Unusable fuel is: Left tank -
>6oz, right tank 2oz. My left tank has a flop tube. Your actual results
>may vary depending on the installation of the pickup tubes. Just make
>sure they go all the way to the bottom inside corner of the tank..
>
>Verifed all this by leveling the aircraft in flight attitude and then
>pumpming each tank dry with the electric pump. Start with just a few
>gallons in each side so it doesn't take forever. I disconnected the
>fuel line at the fuel servo and let go into a bucket. Then I drained
>and measured what was left out of each tank fuel drain into a cup.
>Followed by filling each tank to re-verify total capacity.
>
> -Don
>
>Don Kugler
>don(at)earthlink.net
>RV8 - NJ
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Usable fuel RV-7/8 |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
In all the talk about unusable fuel, people seem to be measuring unusable
fuel as what will not be used in level flight. Unless my memory is failing
me unusable fuel would be what is unusable in normal flight attitudes. More
is likely to be unusable in nose up or nose down attitudes.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Usable fuel RV-7/8 version=3.0.3 |
>When I tested mine, at
>cruise speed, I got the same results as Dan and Don, but I wonder about
>the attitude change in the pattern. Haven't tested it yet.
I have tested in the pattern and I find that a prolonged steep decent with
less than five gallons will cause fuel starvation on the tank without the
flop tube. The tank with the flop tube is not as bad. Also it gets worse
if you do a forward slip.
While in the traffic pattern, I always select the high wing tank (right
tank in left hand traffic), when I am below a half tank of fuel. Or the
high wing tank in a forward slip.
Note: I have been able to get fuel starvation with up to 8 gallons in a tank.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim L. Cox" <jlcox(at)elp.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Match-drill/dimple thru the blue film? |
I'm dimpling my first skin (VS), and I'm getting small scratches from the male
die as I move the piece from hole to hole. Additionally, the dies are leaving
a ring around the hole the diameter of the die. Since I'm planning on a bare
metal airplane, I'm very concerned about the surface finish.
I've experimented with drilling and dimpling thru the blue vinyl film on a scrap
piece. This solved the scratching problem, and my untrained eye can see no difference
in the dimple.
Does anyone know of any cons to this method? Thanks for any help!
Jim L. Cox
RV-8A emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | FAA renewal of Medical |
My guess is that because of your age and the fact that you take Lipitor for
high lipid levels, the FAA is looking for underlying heart disease.
Look at the AOPA website and you'll see that for heart trouble you have to
take a stress test and pass the Bruce level 3 (9 minutes) without showing
signs of ischemia.
What are your lipid level numbers?
Another reason to have your physician take you off all meds 90 days before
your medical. Now you've got some smart-ass on Oklahoma City sniffing around
trying to prove you're to old to fly. Damn Feds!
Bruce
www.glasair.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Usable fuel RV-7/8 |
Mark,
On my RV-8A in Hawaii with standard pickup tubes we had a grand total of 1
pint unusable which works out to a total of 41.75 gallons total usable fuel.
For safety sake we declared .5 gallons unusable on each side although the
point is mute now. (I'm sure the fish like it though)
Mike Robertson
>From: "czechsix(at)juno.com" <czechsix(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Usable fuel RV-7/8
>Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 05:46:54 GMT
>
>
>Guys,
>Can anybody tell me what their measured usable fuel quantity is in an
>RV-7/8 series? I know Vans numbers say 42 gal total and I imagine most of
>that is usable. I want to placard my panel now if there's a reasonable
>consensus and will risk having to change it later if my own measurements
>are different. I can't imagine it varies much on these prepunched kits....
>Thanks,
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D getting close....(definition of "close" is that I may be flying
>"soon", which is anytime between a couple months from now and a couple
>years from now...depending on what else life conspires to bring my way in
>an effort to prolong 1st flight indefinitely...)
>
>
>Guys,
>
>
>Can anybody tell me what their measured usable fuel quantity is in an
>RV-7/8 series? I know Vans numbers say 42 gal total and I imagine most of
>that is usable. I want to placard my panel now if there's a reasonable
>consensus and will risk having to change it later if my own measurements
>are different. I can't imagine it varies much on these prepunched kits....
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>--Mark Navratil
>
>
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>
>
>RV-8A N2D getting close....(definition of "close" is that I may be flying
>"soon", which is anytime between a couple months from now and a couple
>years from now...depending on what else life conspires to bring my way in
>an effort to prolong 1st flight indefinitely...)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | camera in the tail |
I think I found a website that lets you figure out from the spec sheet what the
FOV is and it also let's you see the effect of different FOV from the same spot.
Go to the web site below and click on the link to "Compare FOV"
http://viosport.com/store/customer/ourgear.php?page=ac3_overview
It looks like the 88 degree or 2.9mm lense is the one I'm probably wanting.
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> Hi Lucky
>
> What about a camera on the wing? I am currently testing a wing-mount for my
> Videocamera. I made it from fiberglass and ACRYL-FOAM. It just gets taped to
> the wing and you can take it off in a minute.
>
> http://www.rv-4.de/gallerie/Detail1_img/KHF.jpg
>
> A Testvideo ist here:
>
> http://www.rv-4.de/videos.htm
>
> Happy Landings
>
> Thomas, RV-4
>
>
> --
> Lust, ein paar Euro nebenbei zu verdienen? Ohne Kosten, ohne Risiko!
> Satte Provisionen fr GMX Partner: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/partner
>
>
>
>
>
>
I think I found a website that lets you figure out from the spec sheet what the
FOV is and it also let's you see the effect of different FOV from the same spot.
Go to the web site below and click on the link to "Compare FOV"
http://viosport.com/store/customer/ourgear.php?page=ac3_overview
It looks like the 88 degree or 2.9mm lense is the one I'm probably wanting.
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Thomas Lukasczyk"
Hi Lucky
What about a camera on the wing? I am currently testing a wing-mount for my
Videocamera. I made it from fiberglass and ACRYL-FOAM. It just gets taped to
the wing and you can take it off in a minute.
http://www.rv-4.de/gallerie/Detail1_img/KHF.jpg
A Testvideo ist here:
http://www.rv-4.de/videos.htm
Happy Landings
Thomas, RV-4
--
Lust, ein paar Euro nebenbei zu verdienen? Ohne Kosten, ohne Risiko!
Satte Provisionen fr GMX Partner: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/partner
he RV-List Email Forum -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | FAA renewal of Medical |
To all that care
As my dear old dad used to say, It's time for a revolution and we will take
no prisoners. The FAA like most gov. agencies is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy out of
control. The 3RD class med should be the same as the LSA .....Drivers Lic
and you are good to go. If the whole general aviation community rose up in
arms I know we could correct this situation.
When I get my 7A done I am going to take up the cause. I know, fight the
GOV. GOOD LUCK you say. If we don't do something we will all be in the same
boat as Bert
Frank @ SGU and SLC
>From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: FAA renewal of Medical
>Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 18:21:44 -0400
>
>
>My guess is that because of your age and the fact that you take Lipitor for
>high lipid levels, the FAA is looking for underlying heart disease.
>
>Look at the AOPA website and you'll see that for heart trouble you have to
>take a stress test and pass the Bruce level 3 (9 minutes) without showing
>signs of ischemia.
>
>What are your lipid level numbers?
>
>Another reason to have your physician take you off all meds 90 days before
>your medical. Now you've got some smart-ass on Oklahoma City sniffing
>around
>trying to prove you're to old to fly. Damn Feds!
>
>Bruce
>www.glasair.org
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Usable fuel RV-7/8 version=3.0.3 |
On 18 Oct 2005, at 13:35, Bob wrote:
>
>
>> When I tested mine, at
>> cruise speed, I got the same results as Dan and Don, but I wonder
>> about
>> the attitude change in the pattern. Haven't tested it yet.
>>
>
> I have tested in the pattern and I find that a prolonged steep
> decent with
> less than five gallons will cause fuel starvation on the tank
> without the
> flop tube. The tank with the flop tube is not as bad. Also it
> gets worse
> if you do a forward slip.
>
> While in the traffic pattern, I always select the high wing tank
> (right
> tank in left hand traffic), when I am below a half tank of fuel.
> Or the
> high wing tank in a forward slip.
>
> Note: I have been able to get fuel starvation with up to 8 gallons
> in a tank.
>
Very interesting. In the FAR 23, type certificated world, this would
lead to a declared unusable fuel of 8 gallons per tank. I'm assuming
that there is nothing strange about your fuel pickups, so other RVs
may have the same "issue".
The critical parameter isn't pitch attitude - it is longitudinal
acceleration. In this case it is deceleration, or negative
acceleration that pushes the fuel toward the leading edge. Picture a
tricycle-geared RV doing hard braking on the ground - the pitch
attitude isn't very nose down, but the deceleration will push the
fuel towards the leading edge. The worst case in flight will be with
full flap, idle power and the max allowable speed for full flap.
It would be very wise for every RVer to do such a test with his
aircraft. This is the sort of thing you want to discover when you
are ready for it (i.e. within easy gliding distance of a long
runway), rather than have it catch you by surprise at a bad moment.
If you know your RV is potentially at risk from fuel starvation in
some conditions, you could adjust your approach and landing
procedures to avoid high longitudinal decelation when your fuel is
less than X gallons. You would do this by avoiding full flap and
powers less YYYY rpm until you were within easy gliding distance of
the runway. The value of YYYY would be determined via flight test,
and would be specific to the aircraft, as it is prop and fuel tank
dependent.
I'm adding this to my list of tests to perform after I get flying.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:FAA renewal of Medical |
Frank is absolutely right !!
I had a little problem , walked right through the stress test and was denied.
DAMN !! I sent in my paperwork 3 weeks before the new LSA rule was
approved,and they had sneaked in that "Medical Denied" clause. Now I have an
RV-4
sitting in the hangar with 61 hours on it . I sent letters from my
cardiologist and internal medicine specialist - both said I was not likely to
be
incapicated any more than anyone else.
Try an email to a doctor who is good with such cases,in Tulsa,OK.
_GBaldwindo(at)cs.com_ (mailto:GBaldwindo(at)cs.com)
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Interesting article on increasing oil pressures |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Sent to me By Jimmy Baker. Chief planner of flights & co-instigator of
the infamous flight of 15 to the Turks & Caicos.
Thanks Jimmy. Im cranking up my oil pressure.
http://egaa.home.mindspring.com/new.htm
Key word archive search: oil pressure increase higher use of oil to
augment exhaust valve and guide cooling Cessna red line 115 125
Robinson Bill Marvel and Bill Scott
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
We've got house/hanger space if anyone needs to get out of Florida. Our
# is 601 879 9596.
Charlie England
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Another RV-8 Empennage for sale, Complete! |
RV-8 Empennage for sale.
Built complete.
Bought another partially finished wing kit with finished Empennage.
No need for two tails!
$1000 + shipping.
Eric Parlow
Asheville, NC
(828) 777-7976
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | FAA renewal of Medical |
Be sure to check out Virtual Flight Surgeon (www.aviationmedicine.com ?)
as well as EAA's Aeromedical Advocacy service.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Texas Formation Clinic |
1.53 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
Gainesville TX Formation Clinic
You may remember we had a formation clinic scheduled at Abilene in late September,
but we canceled it with Hurricane Rita moving in. We are now considering
scheduling another formation clinic the weekend before Thanksgiving, 18-20 Nov,
in Texas, if there is enough interest. We have chosen Gainesville TX (GLE),
45 Northwest of Dallas as the host site. It has everything we need for a successful
clinic.
We find about 1/3 low, 1/3 medium, 1/3 high experienced formation pilots is a good
mix for a good formation clinic.
If you would plan on attending the clinic, given good weather, please email me
at sturdy-at-att-dot-net by 25 Oct. Include Name, City/State, Aircraft, Tail#,
Formation experience level, email address, telephone#. If there is enough interest,
we will schedule it and further advertise the clinic.
Stu McCurdy (Falcon)
Gainesville TX Formation Clinic
You may remember we had a formation clinic scheduled at Abilene in late September,
but we canceled it with Hurricane Rita moving in. We are now considering scheduling
another formation clinic the weekend before Thanksgiving, 18-20 Nov,
in Texas, if there is enough interest. We have chosen Gainesville TX (GLE), 45
Northwest of Dallas as the host site. It has everything we need for a successful
clinic.
We find about 1/3 low, 1/3 medium, 1/3 high experienced formation pilots is a good
mix for a good formation clinic.
If you would plan on attending the clinic, given good weather, please email me
at sturdy-at-att-dot-net by 25 Oct. Include Name, City/State, Aircraft, Tail#,
Formation experience level, email address, telephone#. If there is enough interest,
we will schedule it and further advertise the clinic.
Stu McCurdy (Falcon)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <erichweaver(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit |
Greeetings.
I am working on my 7A, and recently ordered a IO-360 B1B from AeroSport Power.
I now want to order the firewall forward kit from Vans, but discovered there
is nothing specifically tailored for that engine. The tech guy at Vans recommended
ordering the O-360 FWF kit, with a few changes, which were just off the
top of his head:
(1) Substitute the VA-182 for the VA-149 bracket (for carrying the throttle and
mixture cables I think)
(2) Delete the gascolator
(3) Add the FIA(?) pump and filter (fuel injector pump I presume); and
(4) Get a 47-inch mixture cable instead of the 45-inch.
I know there are plenty of IO-360s ou there. Does this list sound accurate and
complete?
thanks for any input.
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit |
Some of it depends on the fuel injection system you are getting with the
engine from Bart. If you are getting the Airflow Performance system, mine
came with the flat aluminum plate that connects the bottom of the fuel
control box with the filtered air box, so you won't need that from Van's. On
the other hand, neither that one or the one from Van's would work on my 8A
because the Airflow Performance fuel control box is not centered on the
engine and the filtered air box would not fit down into the air scoop, so
that flat plate had to be custom built anyway. I ended up moving the hole
3/8" to one side to make it fit. Hopefully Van's has resolved that problem,
but I would be surprised if they have. It's another of those "No one else
has any problem with it" problems.
The bracket that holds the engine-end of the throttle and mixture cables
will probably have to be severely modified to fit around the nose gear too,
but again, you will probably have to do that yourself. It's not too
difficult, but it really helps to see someone else's 7A installation. I also
had to move the prop control cable hole in the firewall to make it fit, but
the longer cable probably solves that problem.
You will be very pleased with how complete Bart is with the engine and the
accessories. Mine came with the Airflow Performance purge valve and the prop
control line (tubing) and the oil pressure restrictor fitting all installed,
along with the Light Speed Engineering Plasma II ignition sensor fitted to
the flywheel. The Airflow Performance electric fuel pump and filter all came
with my engine from Bart too.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of erichweaver(at)cox.net
Subject: RV-List: IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit
Greeetings.
I am working on my 7A, and recently ordered a IO-360 B1B from AeroSport
Power. I now want to order the firewall forward kit from Vans, but
discovered there is nothing specifically tailored for that engine. The tech
guy at Vans recommended ordering the O-360 FWF kit, with a few changes,
which were just off the top of his head:
(1) Substitute the VA-182 for the VA-149 bracket (for carrying the throttle
and mixture cables I think)
(2) Delete the gascolator
(3) Add the FIA(?) pump and filter (fuel injector pump I presume); and
(4) Get a 47-inch mixture cable instead of the 45-inch.
I know there are plenty of IO-360s ou there. Does this list sound accurate
and complete?
thanks for any input.
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for someplace to go on Sat. Oct. 29th..... |
"rocket-list" ,
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0036 1.0000 -4.4384;INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0036 1.0000 -4.4384
Apple Valley Airport (APV) will be holding an Open House on Saturday Oct
29th from 9am-3pm. There will be aircraft & cars on display. Just like last
year there will be a free breakfast for those flying in and/or displaying
and "People Choice" trophies will be awarded. Fly Bys and formation approach
to landing are encouraged but are at pilots discretion. There will NOT be an
AirBoss for flights but where will be ground parking control at the normal
APV Unicom 122.8. KABONG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for someplace to go on Sat. Oct. 29th..... |
"rocket-list" ,
"INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0036 1.0000 -4.4384" ,
"IMB Recipient 1"
Apple Valley Airport (APV) will be holding an Open House on Saturday Oct
29th from 9am-3pm. There will be aircraft & cars on display. Just like last
year there will be a free breakfast for those flying in and/or displaying
and "People Choice" trophies will be awarded. Fly Bys and formation approach
to landing are encouraged but are at pilots discretion. There will NOT be an
AirBoss for flights but where will be ground parking control at the normal
APV Unicom 122.8. KABONG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glaesers" <glaesers(at)wideopenwest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Re:FAA renewal of Medical and other crazy gov. ideas |
I agree wholeheartedly (no pun intended) !!!!!!!!!
Dennis Glaeser
Dennis and all you great flyers
Now let me see, you have got to spend mucho dollars for the med tests, wait
for the FAA to make up it's mind on what they in their wisdom will allow and
what more they need, and do this in an untimiuly fashion and you have to
guess what tyhey may want, and they want this all done
annually.....................but.................you can drive in close
formation on the freeway at top speed surrounded by plenty of people to take
out IF you just MIGHT have a heart attack and you can do this with a drivers
lic. that renews probably every 5 years without all the expensive tests. I
say 3rd class same as drivers lic. Less hassel for the FAA (unless they are
looking for job preservation). Less expense for you the pilot.
Frank @ SGU and SLC ................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit |
Just order the IO-360-A1A kit and everything should fit fine. The B1B is
the same as the A1A except it has slick magnetos instead of Bendix. Most
A1A's come with Slick magnetos these days anyways, so they are virtually the
same.
Mike Robertson
>From: <erichweaver(at)cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit
>Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 17:18:27 -0400
>
>
>Greeetings.
>
>I am working on my 7A, and recently ordered a IO-360 B1B from AeroSport
>Power. I now want to order the firewall forward kit from Vans, but
>discovered there is nothing specifically tailored for that engine. The
>tech guy at Vans recommended ordering the O-360 FWF kit, with a few
>changes, which were just off the top of his head:
>
>(1) Substitute the VA-182 for the VA-149 bracket (for carrying the throttle
>and mixture cables I think)
>
>(2) Delete the gascolator
>
>(3) Add the FIA(?) pump and filter (fuel injector pump I presume); and
>
>(4) Get a 47-inch mixture cable instead of the 45-inch.
>
>I know there are plenty of IO-360s ou there. Does this list sound accurate
>and complete?
>
>thanks for any input.
>
>Erich Weaver
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit |
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Hmmmm, isn't the IO360B1B a 180hp with parallel valve cylinders?
The A1A is the 200hp with angle valve cylinders. The case is probably the
same externally, but the sump would be different, and the overall engine
width would be different. May not matter as to the FWF components, but the
difference is definitely NOT the mags. I don't have my parts book handy to
verify what components are in the B!B, but I own an A1A, so I know what it
has.
ALL Lycomings come with Slick mags, except for the -D engines with the
infamous "dual mag" Bendix. Lycoming doesn't want to buy mags from TCM.
Same reason Cessna switched all their singles to Lycomings. Textron owns
both companies and doesn't want Teledyne Continental to get the business.
In most cases, the last letter told you which type of mag. O-360 A1A was
impulse coupled IIRC, while the O360 A1D was shower of sparks mags.
Mike Robertson said:
>
> Just order the IO-360-A1A kit and everything should fit fine. The B1B is
> the same as the A1A except it has slick magnetos instead of Bendix. Most
> A1A's come with Slick magnetos these days anyways, so they are virtually
> the
> same.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
>>From: <erichweaver(at)cox.net>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: RV-List: IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit
>>Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 17:18:27 -0400
>>
>>
>>Greeetings.
>>
>>I am working on my 7A, and recently ordered a IO-360 B1B from AeroSport
>>Power. I now want to order the firewall forward kit from Vans, but
>>discovered there is nothing specifically tailored for that engine. The
>>tech guy at Vans recommended ordering the O-360 FWF kit, with a few
>>changes, which were just off the top of his head:
>>
>>(1) Substitute the VA-182 for the VA-149 bracket (for carrying the
>> throttle
>>and mixture cables I think)
>>
>>(2) Delete the gascolator
>>
>>(3) Add the FIA(?) pump and filter (fuel injector pump I presume); and
>>
>>(4) Get a 47-inch mixture cable instead of the 45-inch.
>>
>>I know there are plenty of IO-360s ou there. Does this list sound
>> accurate
>>and complete?
>>
>>thanks for any input.
>>
>>Erich Weaver
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit |
I stand corrected. You are corrrect. I was just looking at the differences
part of the Lycoming engine directory. The B1B is a parallel valve engine
180 HP.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit
>Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 08:15:08 -0700 (MST)
>
>
>Hmmmm, isn't the IO360B1B a 180hp with parallel valve cylinders?
>The A1A is the 200hp with angle valve cylinders. The case is probably the
>same externally, but the sump would be different, and the overall engine
>width would be different. May not matter as to the FWF components, but the
>difference is definitely NOT the mags. I don't have my parts book handy to
>verify what components are in the B!B, but I own an A1A, so I know what it
>has.
>ALL Lycomings come with Slick mags, except for the -D engines with the
>infamous "dual mag" Bendix. Lycoming doesn't want to buy mags from TCM.
>Same reason Cessna switched all their singles to Lycomings. Textron owns
>both companies and doesn't want Teledyne Continental to get the business.
>In most cases, the last letter told you which type of mag. O-360 A1A was
>impulse coupled IIRC, while the O360 A1D was shower of sparks mags.
>
>Mike Robertson said:
> >
> > Just order the IO-360-A1A kit and everything should fit fine. The B1B
>is
> > the same as the A1A except it has slick magnetos instead of Bendix.
>Most
> > A1A's come with Slick magnetos these days anyways, so they are virtually
> > the
> > same.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> >
> >
> >>From: <erichweaver(at)cox.net>
> >>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >>To:
> >>Subject: RV-List: IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit
> >>Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 17:18:27 -0400
> >>
> >>
> >>Greeetings.
> >>
> >>I am working on my 7A, and recently ordered a IO-360 B1B from AeroSport
> >>Power. I now want to order the firewall forward kit from Vans, but
> >>discovered there is nothing specifically tailored for that engine. The
> >>tech guy at Vans recommended ordering the O-360 FWF kit, with a few
> >>changes, which were just off the top of his head:
> >>
> >>(1) Substitute the VA-182 for the VA-149 bracket (for carrying the
> >> throttle
> >>and mixture cables I think)
> >>
> >>(2) Delete the gascolator
> >>
> >>(3) Add the FIA(?) pump and filter (fuel injector pump I presume); and
> >>
> >>(4) Get a 47-inch mixture cable instead of the 45-inch.
> >>
> >>I know there are plenty of IO-360s ou there. Does this list sound
> >> accurate
> >>and complete?
> >>
> >>thanks for any input.
> >>
> >>Erich Weaver
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerns25(at)netscape.net |
| Subject: | Any builders in Utah (SLC or OGD) or Surrounding area |
I am getting ready to purchase and start construction on an RV7. I have been told
that the builder community of RV's is amazing and judging from this forum,
I would agree. This will be my first airplane construction project (I owned
a kitfox that was built by a local guy here so I have a bit of experience maintaining
aircraft) so I would like to get to know some local guys that have "been
there, done that" that I can talk to and hopefully get some tips and tricks
from. Obviously, any moral support and words of encouragement to keep working
and finish the project are always welcome. I would love to talk to anyone who
is currently building, flying or otherwise doing something related to any of
the Vans Aircraft line. Thanks guys and I hope to be joining in on the forum
with my own project, and at some point flying, RV7!
Darin Hawkes
Look What The New Netscape.com Can Do!
Now you can preview dozens of stories and have the ones you select delivered to you without ever leaving the Top Home Page. And the new Tool Box gives you one click access to local Movie times, Maps, White Pages and more. See for yourself at http://netcenter.netscape.com/netcenter/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit |
My ANA is 180 hp and parallel valve cylinders. The Cardinal I had was 200hp
IO360A16BD with angle valves.
Ollie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit
>
> I stand corrected. You are corrrect. I was just looking at the
> differences
> part of the Lycoming engine directory. The B1B is a parallel valve engine
> 180 HP.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
>>From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit
>>Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 08:15:08 -0700 (MST)
>>
>>
>>Hmmmm, isn't the IO360B1B a 180hp with parallel valve cylinders?
>>The A1A is the 200hp with angle valve cylinders. The case is probably the
>>same externally, but the sump would be different, and the overall engine
>>width would be different. May not matter as to the FWF components, but the
>>difference is definitely NOT the mags. I don't have my parts book handy to
>>verify what components are in the B!B, but I own an A1A, so I know what it
>>has.
>>ALL Lycomings come with Slick mags, except for the -D engines with the
>>infamous "dual mag" Bendix. Lycoming doesn't want to buy mags from TCM.
>>Same reason Cessna switched all their singles to Lycomings. Textron owns
>>both companies and doesn't want Teledyne Continental to get the business.
>>In most cases, the last letter told you which type of mag. O-360 A1A was
>>impulse coupled IIRC, while the O360 A1D was shower of sparks mags.
>>
>>Mike Robertson said:
>> >
>> >
>> > Just order the IO-360-A1A kit and everything should fit fine. The B1B
>>is
>> > the same as the A1A except it has slick magnetos instead of Bendix.
>>Most
>> > A1A's come with Slick magnetos these days anyways, so they are
>> > virtually
>> > the
>> > same.
>> >
>> > Mike Robertson
>> >
>> >
>> >>From: <erichweaver(at)cox.net>
>> >>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> >>To:
>> >>Subject: RV-List: IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit
>> >>Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 17:18:27 -0400
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>Greeetings.
>> >>
>> >>I am working on my 7A, and recently ordered a IO-360 B1B from AeroSport
>> >>Power. I now want to order the firewall forward kit from Vans, but
>> >>discovered there is nothing specifically tailored for that engine. The
>> >>tech guy at Vans recommended ordering the O-360 FWF kit, with a few
>> >>changes, which were just off the top of his head:
>> >>
>> >>(1) Substitute the VA-182 for the VA-149 bracket (for carrying the
>> >> throttle
>> >>and mixture cables I think)
>> >>
>> >>(2) Delete the gascolator
>> >>
>> >>(3) Add the FIA(?) pump and filter (fuel injector pump I presume); and
>> >>
>> >>(4) Get a 47-inch mixture cable instead of the 45-inch.
>> >>
>> >>I know there are plenty of IO-360s ou there. Does this list sound
>> >> accurate
>> >>and complete?
>> >>
>> >>thanks for any input.
>> >>
>> >>Erich Weaver
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 B1B firewall forward kit |
Refer the this document on Can Checkoway's website to
tell the difference between IO-360's
http://images.rvproject.com/tcds/lycoming-io-360.pdf
A parallel valve 180 horse "A1A" is probably an
O-360-A1A, or one that was converted to fuel
injection.
Skylor
RV-8
Under Construction
--- Oliver Washburn wrote:
>
>
> My ANA is 180 hp and parallel valve cylinders. The
> Cardinal I had was 200hp
> IO360A16BD with angle valves.
> Ollie
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: IO-360 B1B firewall forward
> kit
>
>
>
> >
> > I stand corrected. You are corrrect. I was just
> looking at the
> > differences
> > part of the Lycoming engine directory. The B1B is
> a parallel valve engine
> > 180 HP.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> >
> >
> >>From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
> >>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >>Subject: RE: RV-List: IO-360 B1B firewall forward
> kit
> >>Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 08:15:08 -0700 (MST)
> >>
>
> >>
> >>Hmmmm, isn't the IO360B1B a 180hp with parallel
> valve cylinders?
> >>The A1A is the 200hp with angle valve cylinders.
> The case is probably the
> >>same externally, but the sump would be different,
> and the overall engine
> >>width would be different. May not matter as to the
> FWF components, but the
> >>difference is definitely NOT the mags. I don't
> have my parts book handy to
> >>verify what components are in the B!B, but I own
> an A1A, so I know what it
> >>has.
> >>ALL Lycomings come with Slick mags, except for the
> -D engines with the
> >>infamous "dual mag" Bendix. Lycoming doesn't want
> to buy mags from TCM.
> >>Same reason Cessna switched all their singles to
> Lycomings. Textron owns
> >>both companies and doesn't want Teledyne
> Continental to get the business.
> >>In most cases, the last letter told you which type
> of mag. O-360 A1A was
> >>impulse coupled IIRC, while the O360 A1D was
> shower of sparks mags.
> >>
> >>Mike Robertson said:
>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Just order the IO-360-A1A kit and everything
> should fit fine. The B1B
> >>is
> >> > the same as the A1A except it has slick
> magnetos instead of Bendix.
> >>Most
> >> > A1A's come with Slick magnetos these days
> anyways, so they are
> >> > virtually
> >> > the
> >> > same.
> >> >
> >> > Mike Robertson
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >>From: <erichweaver(at)cox.net>
> >> >>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >> >>To:
> >> >>Subject: RV-List: IO-360 B1B firewall forward
> kit
> >> >>Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 17:18:27 -0400
> >> >>
>
> >> >>
> >> >>Greeetings.
> >> >>
> >> >>I am working on my 7A, and recently ordered a
> IO-360 B1B from AeroSport
> >> >>Power. I now want to order the firewall
> forward kit from Vans, but
> >> >>discovered there is nothing specifically
> tailored for that engine. The
> >> >>tech guy at Vans recommended ordering the O-360
> FWF kit, with a few
> >> >>changes, which were just off the top of his
> head:
> >> >>
> >> >>(1) Substitute the VA-182 for the VA-149
> bracket (for carrying the
> >> >> throttle
> >> >>and mixture cables I think)
> >> >>
> >> >>(2) Delete the gascolator
> >> >>
> >> >>(3) Add the FIA(?) pump and filter (fuel
> injector pump I presume); and
> >> >>
> >> >>(4) Get a 47-inch mixture cable instead of the
> 45-inch.
> >> >>
> >> >>I know there are plenty of IO-360s ou there.
> Does this list sound
> >> >> accurate
> >> >>and complete?
> >> >>
> >> >>thanks for any input.
> >> >>
> >> >>Erich Weaver
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)speedyquick.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon + panel tilt? |
I just bought an EFIS and an EMS from Dynon and I couldn't find anything in
the archives about the panel tilt in a 6a. The docs say to mount the EFIS
as close to the longitudinal axis of the aircraft as possible. Do you shim
the face of the unit, or?
Thanks,
Ed Bundy
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAA renewal of Medical |
In a message dated 10/20/2005 8:23:03 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
Donald.C.Hull(at)nasa.gov writes:
Don't give up. They want you to give up. You've already received some
good advice, but to reiterate, use all available resources, i.e., AOPA,
EAA, your AME. (The EAA has some excellent medical advice available
just for the asking.) THEN, even though it is exasperating, complete and
return ALL information they ask for via certified mail, return receipt.
==========================================
Another thing everyone should do to bring this issue to a head, is to call
CAMI and check the status of your deferred medical EVERYDAY, not every week.
The Civil Aerospace Medical Institute (CAMI) phone number in Okie City is
405-954-4821. Your documentation can be faxed to them during normal working
hours at 405-954-4300 and then followed up with a call to expedite getting it
scanned into the computer, as they have a two week delay now on mailed in
documents (since 9/11/01) for mail to be screened for anthrax spores and then
scanned into the computer.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 767hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
I hold a class A commercial drivers license and can drive my big diesel
truck anywhere , but the Fatherless Aviation Administration denied my class 3
medical after I passed the stress test and sent letters from my cardiologist
and internal medicine specialist stating that I was no more likely to be
incapicated than anyone else in the general population.
I don't have the faintest idea what they want !!!! I can't afford big time
lawyers,etc. so I just bought a Honda Goldwing and guess I will sell our
61 hour RV-4.
Or maybe just fly anyway ?????????
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Don't give up. You only need a licensed private pilot ASEL to ride with you
until you get the medical.
Try www.aviationmedicine.com for assistence with the FAA. They are ex-FAA
folks and medical experts that specialize in getting folks special
issuances.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
I hold a class A commercial drivers license and can drive my big diesel
truck anywhere , but the Fatherless Aviation Administration denied my class
3
medical after I passed the stress test and sent letters from my
cardiologist
and internal medicine specialist stating that I was no more likely to be
incapicated than anyone else in the general population.
I don't have the faintest idea what they want !!!! I can't afford big
time
lawyers,etc. so I just bought a Honda Goldwing and guess I will sell our
61 hour RV-4.
Or maybe just fly anyway ?????????
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
This sort of reminds me of a different - but similar bureaucracy which
required periodic lie-detector tests -without any specific cause. After a
number years of this periodic harassment, it was apparent that this part of
the organization justified its budget (and growth) on the number of people
that it "caught" or flunked their "tests". I mean - how could you possibly
justify a multimillion dollar budget, people, equipment and facilities if
you only "caught" one or two a year - think about it.
I finally confronted their management with my view point - my next test
time, I required three tests/retry to pass - I am convinced I only passed
because I refused to say "Uncle" and kept insisting on another poly - did I
"pass". I think the message from management was very clear.
Not saying by any means that there are not valid failures of tests, there
certainly are - but it is equally clear that jobs, positions, etc are at
stake and they are based not on the number of people that pass a test but on
the number that fail or at least the number that require "extensive" study
and scrutiny..
Ed A
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
>
> I hold a class A commercial drivers license and can drive my big diesel
> truck anywhere , but the Fatherless Aviation Administration denied my
> class 3
> medical after I passed the stress test and sent letters from my
> cardiologist
> and internal medicine specialist stating that I was no more likely to be
> incapicated than anyone else in the general population.
> I don't have the faintest idea what they want !!!! I can't afford big
> time
> lawyers,etc. so I just bought a Honda Goldwing and guess I will sell our
> 61 hour RV-4.
> Or maybe just fly anyway ?????????
>
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> Charleston,Arkansas
> Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
I just don't see why we put up with this garbage. I remember a local GIII
pilot here who had a rare lung disease. He went in and took his 3rd class,
but half way through the exam he started to get light headed and gave the
flight surgeon some excuse to go to his car. He then hyperventilated on some
pure O2 he had, went back inside and passed his physical. Sure he lied, but
he died (in bed) 3 days after his physical, so I guess he doesn't care.
Lets look at what the FAA doc is looking for at a 3rd class exam. Eyes
(vision), Blood pressure, any surgeries?, sugar in the urine? Anything else,
unless you have a big scar down the center of your chest, they aren't going
to find. They only know what you tell them.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Subject: Re: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
Don't give up. You only need a licensed private pilot ASEL to ride with you
until you get the medical.
Try www.aviationmedicine.com for assistence with the FAA. They are ex-FAA
folks and medical experts that specialize in getting folks special
issuances.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
I hold a class A commercial drivers license and can drive my big diesel
truck anywhere , but the Fatherless Aviation Administration denied my class
3
medical after I passed the stress test and sent letters from my
cardiologist
and internal medicine specialist stating that I was no more likely to be
incapicated than anyone else in the general population.
I don't have the faintest idea what they want !!!! I can't afford big
time
lawyers,etc. so I just bought a Honda Goldwing and guess I will sell our
61 hour RV-4.
Or maybe just fly anyway ?????????
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon + panel tilt? |
Just mount the unit flush with the panel. You can adjust the 8 degree
tilt in the software by pushing a few buttons. I forget just now which
buttons, but it's all in the manual.
Jeff Point
RV-6 w/ D-10
Milwaukee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dynon + panel tilt? |
Hi Ed,
With a bit of practice using the buttons along the bottom of the display you
will be able to set the 8 degree tilt internally. It will all come clear
after you have played with the buttons and refered to the manual enough to
run down and re-charge the interal battery a few times (if you ordered the
internal battery that is?) :) One re-charge on the main battery should more
than do it. {[;-)
Jim in Kelowna in Kelowna- Epoxying the slider windshield.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)speedyquick.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon + panel tilt?
>
> I just bought an EFIS and an EMS from Dynon and I couldn't find anything
> in
> the archives about the panel tilt in a 6a. The docs say to mount the EFIS
> as close to the longitudinal axis of the aircraft as possible. Do you
> shim
> the face of the unit, or?
>
> Thanks,
> Ed Bundy
>
>
> --
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Dynon + panel tilt? |
Ed,
The panel tilt doesn't matter, in fact the D-10 in our 6-a is over
tilted several degrees (with washers under the lower mount studs) to
clear the canopy structure when closed. It works fine. You set the level
flight attitude on the display in flight and it remembers it evermore.
If you are going to use the external magnetic sensor, you have to set it
to match the panel mounted unit if I remember correctly. Call or e-mail
Michael Schofield [mike(at)dynonavionics.com] for technical questions. He
was very helpful to me when I had an issue. Have fun with it.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Bundy
Subject: RV-List: Dynon + panel tilt?
I just bought an EFIS and an EMS from Dynon and I couldn't find anything
in
the archives about the panel tilt in a 6a. The docs say to mount the
EFIS
as close to the longitudinal axis of the aircraft as possible. Do you
shim
the face of the unit, or?
Thanks,
Ed Bundy
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I wonder ?????? |
I wonder if we as GA pilots said, "we will no longer support this unfair
system of medical testing". In other words go on strike and fly when and
where we want without carrying the now all important medical. From grass
roots support, political activism, research as to how small the medical
problem is in flying incidences, and just plain not bowing to an invasion of
our freedom, we could change this to say the least poor system of
governance.
It is my contention that flying on the drivers lic., continued rigorous
flight reviews, self grounding when medical conditions warrant would creat
flying every bit as safe as the mythical notion of the gov, that they in
their big brotherism are protecting the public and us from ourselves.
The EAA, AOPA, and our viglence is the only thing standing between us and
the FAA from bring the whole of GA flying to a state of being grounded.
Expanded medical hoopes to jump through, closures of air space, and
unbelievable rules to certify aircraft are all done to either on purpose or
unknowingly bring our right and freedom to fly to a slow grinding halt.
Alone we will be an easy target for flight denial. Together we could change
this assault on our right to travel where we want, when we want, and how we
want.
So with all this said I will now go back to pounding rivets, working out my
electrical needs, and trying to figure where to get the $$$$$$$$$$$ to
finish my project, and just hope my health holds long enough so I can have
the thrill that many of you have experieced of flying the plane you built.
By the way any good advice in regards to ex-bus or fuses or circuit
breakers.
Thanks for all the info you great people give....................
Frank @ SGU and SLC RV7A Fuse about done with the finish kit inventoried
>From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
>Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 23:31:47 -0400
>
>
>This sort of reminds me of a different - but similar bureaucracy which
>required periodic lie-detector tests -without any specific cause. After a
>number years of this periodic harassment, it was apparent that this part of
>the organization justified its budget (and growth) on the number of people
>that it "caught" or flunked their "tests". I mean - how could you possibly
>justify a multimillion dollar budget, people, equipment and facilities if
>you only "caught" one or two a year - think about it.
>
>I finally confronted their management with my view point - my next test
>time, I required three tests/retry to pass - I am convinced I only passed
>because I refused to say "Uncle" and kept insisting on another poly - did I
>"pass". I think the message from management was very clear.
>
>Not saying by any means that there are not valid failures of tests, there
>certainly are - but it is equally clear that jobs, positions, etc are at
>stake and they are based not on the number of people that pass a test but
>on
>the number that fail or at least the number that require "extensive" study
>and scrutiny..
>
>Ed A
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
>
>
> >
> > I hold a class A commercial drivers license and can drive my big
>diesel
> > truck anywhere , but the Fatherless Aviation Administration denied my
> > class 3
> > medical after I passed the stress test and sent letters from my
> > cardiologist
> > and internal medicine specialist stating that I was no more likely to
>be
> > incapicated than anyone else in the general population.
> > I don't have the faintest idea what they want !!!! I can't afford big
> > time
> > lawyers,etc. so I just bought a Honda Goldwing and guess I will sell
>our
> > 61 hour RV-4.
> > Or maybe just fly anyway ?????????
> >
> > Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> > A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> > Charleston,Arkansas
> > Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Any builders in Utah (SLC or OGD) or Surrounding area |
I used the chapter locator at EAA.ORG and found these two chapters. If you
haven't visited your local EAA chapter you are missing one of the greatest
resources any kit builder could ever want. Check them out.
Albert Gardner
EAA Chapter 590 http://www.eaa590.org
Yuma, AZ
EAA Chapter 58, Ogden, UT http://www.westacon.com/eaa/index.htm
EAA Chapter 23, Salt Lake City, UT http://www.eaa23.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Dynon + panel tilt? |
No need to mount it different. Just push a couple buttons and it's set Thee
manual will give you the details.
John
RV6A - Dynon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Parker <mdparker(at)sisna.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any builders in Utah (SLC or OGD) or Surrounding area |
There are lots of RV fliers and builders in SLC- the EAA chapter meets
every second Friday, 7:00 PM, at a new permanent location, at Airport
#2. Great bunch of helpful guys- come to one of the meetings, you will
be impressed..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 CG question |
List,
I weighed my plane yesterday and if my calculations are correct my CG seems a bit
forward. The weight was 1077 lbs. and the CG came to 74.03 inches. (datum is
70" forward of wing leading edge) It's a 0-360,
Hartzell CS, Odyssey battery on the firewall, ELT under the horizontal stab
and a very full IFR panel with standard "steam gauges" except for a VM-1000. If
my numbers are correct, I'll need rear ballast to fly solo. Does this seem right
for my configuration?
Comments or suggestions please.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S
St. Charles, MO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 CG question |
On Oct 21, 2005, at 9:04 AM, Steve Struyk wrote:
>
> List,
>
> I weighed my plane yesterday and if my calculations are correct my
> CG seems a bit forward. The weight was 1077 lbs. and the CG came to
> 74.03 inches. (datum is 70" forward of wing leading edge) It's a
> 0-360,
> Hartzell CS, Odyssey battery on the firewall, ELT under the
> horizontal stab
> and a very full IFR panel with standard "steam gauges" except for a
> VM-1000. If my numbers are correct, I'll need rear ballast to fly
> solo. Does this seem right for my configuration?
>
> Comments or suggestions please.
(snip)
Steve, that does seem a little far forward, although the -8s tend
towards forward C of G anyway.
Dan Checkoway has a very useful registry of RV W&B here:
http://www.rvproject.com/wab/
I might recalculate the numbers to be sure. How much weight is on
your tailwheel?
James Freeman
RV-8 N9TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 CG question |
version=3.0.3
Steve, you are 2 1/2 inches forward of anyone else...I would be very
suspicious of the data or calculations. check, check.
John
Steve Struyk wrote:
>
>List,
>
>I weighed my plane yesterday and if my calculations are correct my CG seems a
bit forward. The weight was 1077 lbs. and the CG came to 74.03 inches. (datum
is 70" forward of wing leading edge) It's a 0-360,
>Hartzell CS, Odyssey battery on the firewall, ELT under the horizontal stab
>and a very full IFR panel with standard "steam gauges" except for a VM-1000. If
my numbers are correct, I'll need rear ballast to fly solo. Does this seem right
for my configuration?
>
>Comments or suggestions please.
>
>Steve Struyk
>RV-8, N842S
>St. Charles, MO
>
>
>.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 CG question |
Steve,
Where did you mount your battery?
Charlie Kuss
>
>List,
>
>I weighed my plane yesterday and if my calculations are correct my CG
>seems a bit forward. The weight was 1077 lbs. and the CG came to 74.03
>inches. (datum is 70" forward of wing leading edge) It's a 0-360,
>Hartzell CS, Odyssey battery on the firewall, ELT under the horizontal stab
>and a very full IFR panel with standard "steam gauges" except for a
>VM-1000. If my numbers are correct, I'll need rear ballast to fly solo.
>Does this seem right for my configuration?
>
>Comments or suggestions please.
>
>Steve Struyk
>RV-8, N842S
>St. Charles, MO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
Bruce,
Keep in mind the medical community is evolving along with the medical
records system. My surgeons write a report and my AME has instant access to
it. They are not in the same office, clinic, or even town. Plus...
If you fail to answer a question truthfully, or omit an important piece of
information, you will have problems if there is an incident or even an
insurance claim. Not advocating anything here, except it isn't as straight
forward as it used to be. For me getting a medical based on careful
quietness might be the same as the fly anyway situation. Either way you
might as well forego the insurance.
Maybe a better substitute is to get your wife to learn to fly or a good
freind who goes with you most of the time anyway. Might even be cheaper.
Just my .02
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Bruce Gray
Date: 10/20/05 21:04:22
Subject: RE: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
I just don't see why we put up with this garbage. I remember a local GIII
pilot here who had a rare lung disease. He went in and took his 3rd class,
but half way through the exam he started to get light headed and gave the
flight surgeon some excuse to go to his car. He then hyperventilated on some
pure O2 he had, went back inside and passed his physical. Sure he lied, but
he died (in bed) 3 days after his physical, so I guess he doesn't care.
Lets look at what the FAA doc is looking for at a 3rd class exam. Eyes
(vision), Blood pressure, any surgeries?, sugar in the urine? Anything else,
unless you have a big scar down the center of your chest, they aren't going
to find. They only know what you tell them.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Subject: Re: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
Don't give up. You only need a licensed private pilot ASEL to ride with you
until you get the medical.
Try www.aviationmedicine.com for assistence with the FAA. They are ex-FAA
folks and medical experts that specialize in getting folks special
issuances.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
I hold a class A commercial drivers license and can drive my big diesel
truck anywhere , but the Fatherless Aviation Administration denied my class
3
medical after I passed the stress test and sent letters from my
cardiologist
and internal medicine specialist stating that I was no more likely to be
incapicated than anyone else in the general population.
I don't have the faintest idea what they want !!!! I can't afford big
time
lawyers,etc. so I just bought a Honda Goldwing and guess I will sell our
61 hour RV-4.
Or maybe just fly anyway ?????????
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I wonder ?????? |
> So with all this said I will now go back to pounding rivets, working out
> my
> electrical needs, and trying to figure where to get the $$$$$$$$$$$ to
> finish my project, and just hope my health holds long enough so I can
> have
> the thrill that many of you have experieced of flying the plane you built.
>
> By the way any good advice in regards to ex-bus or fuses or circuit
> breakers.
>
Remember to do some good things also for your health. Eat at all times like
your next medical depended on it. And put the rivet gun down for 30 minutes
twice each day so you can get some cardiovascular exercise. Keep your
plumbing in good shape and many medical problems can be put off far down the
runway unless your genes have it seriously against you. In any case
exercise will not hurt. I for instance cut off 20 lbs. and can now carry
3.3 lbs of extra fuel at not loss in airspeed.
Indiana Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Yes the records system is evolving but so is the personal privacy issues.
The FAA reciently cought 20-30 pilots in CA who lied about their medical
status on their applications. The only reason they were caught is that they
(the pilots) were also on SS disability, a government database. The FAA
cannot, by law, scan the private medical databases.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: RE: RV-List: Medical was
(http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html)
Bruce,
Keep in mind the medical community is evolving along with the medical
records system. My surgeons write a report and my AME has instant access to
it. They are not in the same office, clinic, or even town. Plus...
If you fail to answer a question truthfully, or omit an important piece of
information, you will have problems if there is an incident or even an
insurance claim. Not advocating anything here, except it isn't as straight
forward as it used to be. For me getting a medical based on careful
quietness might be the same as the fly anyway situation. Either way you
might as well forego the insurance.
Maybe a better substitute is to get your wife to learn to fly or a good
freind who goes with you most of the time anyway. Might even be cheaper.
Just my .02
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Bruce Gray
Date: 10/20/05 21:04:22
Subject: RE: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
I just don't see why we put up with this garbage. I remember a local GIII
pilot here who had a rare lung disease. He went in and took his 3rd class,
but half way through the exam he started to get light headed and gave the
flight surgeon some excuse to go to his car. He then hyperventilated on some
pure O2 he had, went back inside and passed his physical. Sure he lied, but
he died (in bed) 3 days after his physical, so I guess he doesn't care.
Lets look at what the FAA doc is looking for at a 3rd class exam. Eyes
(vision), Blood pressure, any surgeries?, sugar in the urine? Anything else,
unless you have a big scar down the center of your chest, they aren't going
to find. They only know what you tell them.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Subject: Re: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
Don't give up. You only need a licensed private pilot ASEL to ride with you
until you get the medical.
Try www.aviationmedicine.com for assistence with the FAA. They are ex-FAA
folks and medical experts that specialize in getting folks special
issuances.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
I hold a class A commercial drivers license and can drive my big diesel
truck anywhere , but the Fatherless Aviation Administration denied my class
3
medical after I passed the stress test and sent letters from my
cardiologist
and internal medicine specialist stating that I was no more likely to be
incapicated than anyone else in the general population.
I don't have the faintest idea what they want !!!! I can't afford big
time
lawyers,etc. so I just bought a Honda Goldwing and guess I will sell our
61 hour RV-4.
Or maybe just fly anyway ?????????
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
Ouch, guess they are paying now.
I see your point. At my last medical my AME already knew about my surgeries
that year. I didn't have a chance to hide anything. Wouldn't have anyway.
I may have also assumed the form we sign gave the FAA the right to access
our records. But if not, then I guess if the AME doesn't know, you could
hide something until there was a claim. Then it would no doubt come out.
I agree the whole thing should just go away. I self ground if I don't feel
confident to fly for any reason even beyond medical reasons. Isn't all
really about our own responsibilities anyway?
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Bruce Gray
Date: 10/21/05 09:17:17
Subject: RE: RV-List: Medical was (http://www.matronics
com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html)
Yes the records system is evolving but so is the personal privacy issues.
The FAA reciently cought 20-30 pilots in CA who lied about their medical
status on their applications. The only reason they were caught is that they
(the pilots) were also on SS disability, a government database. The FAA
cannot, by law, scan the private medical databases.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: RE: RV-List: Medical was
(http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html)
Bruce,
Keep in mind the medical community is evolving along with the medical
records system. My surgeons write a report and my AME has instant access to
it. They are not in the same office, clinic, or even town. Plus...
If you fail to answer a question truthfully, or omit an important piece of
information, you will have problems if there is an incident or even an
insurance claim. Not advocating anything here, except it isn't as straight
forward as it used to be. For me getting a medical based on careful
quietness might be the same as the fly anyway situation. Either way you
might as well forego the insurance.
Maybe a better substitute is to get your wife to learn to fly or a good
freind who goes with you most of the time anyway. Might even be cheaper.
Just my .02
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Bruce Gray
Date: 10/20/05 21:04:22
Subject: RE: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
I just don't see why we put up with this garbage. I remember a local GIII
pilot here who had a rare lung disease. He went in and took his 3rd class,
but half way through the exam he started to get light headed and gave the
flight surgeon some excuse to go to his car. He then hyperventilated on some
pure O2 he had, went back inside and passed his physical. Sure he lied, but
he died (in bed) 3 days after his physical, so I guess he doesn't care.
Lets look at what the FAA doc is looking for at a 3rd class exam. Eyes
(vision), Blood pressure, any surgeries?, sugar in the urine? Anything else,
unless you have a big scar down the center of your chest, they aren't going
to find. They only know what you tell them.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Subject: Re: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
Don't give up. You only need a licensed private pilot ASEL to ride with you
until you get the medical.
Try www.aviationmedicine.com for assistence with the FAA. They are ex-FAA
folks and medical experts that specialize in getting folks special
issuances.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
I hold a class A commercial drivers license and can drive my big diesel
truck anywhere , but the Fatherless Aviation Administration denied my class
3
medical after I passed the stress test and sent letters from my
cardiologist
and internal medicine specialist stating that I was no more likely to be
incapicated than anyone else in the general population.
I don't have the faintest idea what they want !!!! I can't afford big
time
lawyers,etc. so I just bought a Honda Goldwing and guess I will sell our
61 hour RV-4.
Or maybe just fly anyway ?????????
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I wonder ?????? |
Frank Stringham wrote:
>
>I wonder if we as GA pilots said, "we will no longer support this unfair
>system of medical testing". In other words go on strike and fly when and
>where we want without carrying the now all important medical. From grass
>roots support, political activism, research as to how small the medical
>problem is in flying incidences, and just plain not bowing to an invasion of
>our freedom, we could change this to say the least poor system of
>governance.
>
I would be willing to bet that the medical condition that contributes
most to accidents is both self inflicted and self healing, fatigue.
If you really want to make a bold statement, get a few hundred pilots
together and do a formation flight through the center of the DC ADIZ!
Fly very high as to appear and sound less threatening, and be sure and
publicize it in some way before hand so the military fighter pilots know
it is just a bunch of fed up GA pilots and not an attack. Less chance
of getting shot down then.
--
Chris W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Perhaps it would come out if there were an accident, perhaps not. WRT
insurance, I don't carry hull insurance. I look at it this way, if I bend my
airplane and live, I'll have enough big pieces left to rebuild. If I'm
killed, I won't really care.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: RE: RV-List: Medical was
(http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html)
Ouch, guess they are paying now.
I see your point. At my last medical my AME already knew about my surgeries
that year. I didn't have a chance to hide anything. Wouldn't have anyway.
I may have also assumed the form we sign gave the FAA the right to access
our records. But if not, then I guess if the AME doesn't know, you could
hide something until there was a claim. Then it would no doubt come out.
I agree the whole thing should just go away. I self ground if I don't feel
confident to fly for any reason even beyond medical reasons. Isn't all
really about our own responsibilities anyway?
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Bruce Gray
Date: 10/21/05 09:17:17
Subject: RE: RV-List: Medical was (http://www.matronics
com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html)
Yes the records system is evolving but so is the personal privacy issues.
The FAA reciently cought 20-30 pilots in CA who lied about their medical
status on their applications. The only reason they were caught is that they
(the pilots) were also on SS disability, a government database. The FAA
cannot, by law, scan the private medical databases.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: RE: RV-List: Medical was
(http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html)
Bruce,
Keep in mind the medical community is evolving along with the medical
records system. My surgeons write a report and my AME has instant access to
it. They are not in the same office, clinic, or even town. Plus...
If you fail to answer a question truthfully, or omit an important piece of
information, you will have problems if there is an incident or even an
insurance claim. Not advocating anything here, except it isn't as straight
forward as it used to be. For me getting a medical based on careful
quietness might be the same as the fly anyway situation. Either way you
might as well forego the insurance.
Maybe a better substitute is to get your wife to learn to fly or a good
freind who goes with you most of the time anyway. Might even be cheaper.
Just my .02
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Bruce Gray
Date: 10/20/05 21:04:22
Subject: RE: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
I just don't see why we put up with this garbage. I remember a local GIII
pilot here who had a rare lung disease. He went in and took his 3rd class,
but half way through the exam he started to get light headed and gave the
flight surgeon some excuse to go to his car. He then hyperventilated on some
pure O2 he had, went back inside and passed his physical. Sure he lied, but
he died (in bed) 3 days after his physical, so I guess he doesn't care.
Lets look at what the FAA doc is looking for at a 3rd class exam. Eyes
(vision), Blood pressure, any surgeries?, sugar in the urine? Anything else,
unless you have a big scar down the center of your chest, they aren't going
to find. They only know what you tell them.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Subject: Re: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
Don't give up. You only need a licensed private pilot ASEL to ride with you
until you get the medical.
Try www.aviationmedicine.com for assistence with the FAA. They are ex-FAA
folks and medical experts that specialize in getting folks special
issuances.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
I hold a class A commercial drivers license and can drive my big diesel
truck anywhere , but the Fatherless Aviation Administration denied my class
3
medical after I passed the stress test and sent letters from my
cardiologist
and internal medicine specialist stating that I was no more likely to be
incapicated than anyone else in the general population.
I don't have the faintest idea what they want !!!! I can't afford big
time
lawyers,etc. so I just bought a Honda Goldwing and guess I will sell our
61 hour RV-4.
Or maybe just fly anyway ?????????
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 CG question |
Boy do I feel dumb. I went to the hangar and re-checked all my measurements
and found the problem. My new (and correct) empty CG is 76.08 inches. Still
a bit forward but much closer to others with the same set-up.
Thanks to all who replied.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S
St. Charles, MO
Really, really close now!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 CG question
>
> List,
>
> I weighed my plane yesterday and if my calculations are correct my CG
> seems a bit forward. The weight was 1077 lbs. and the CG came to 74.03
> inches. (datum is 70" forward of wing leading edge) It's a 0-360,
> Hartzell CS, Odyssey battery on the firewall, ELT under the horizontal
> stab
> and a very full IFR panel with standard "steam gauges" except for a
> VM-1000. If my numbers are correct, I'll need rear ballast to fly solo.
> Does this seem right for my configuration?
>
> Comments or suggestions please.
>
> Steve Struyk
> RV-8, N842S
> St. Charles, MO
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
That's certainly a worthwhile option to consider. Just keep in mind that RV's are
pretty much a styrofoam cup in anything but the most benign accident, i.e.
not reuseable when crumpled. Plus it's nice to be able to afford to buy something
to fly while rebuilding.
Greg Young
>>Perhaps it would come out if there were an accident, perhaps not. WRT
>>insurance, I don't carry hull insurance. I look at it this way, if I bend my
>>airplane and live, I'll have enough big pieces left to rebuild. If I'm
.>>killed, I won't really care.
>>
>>Bruce
>>www.glasair.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
Question for the list: has anyone been able to use the 90 degree oil filter
adapters on and RV-6 engine mount? I am ordering a new engine from Bart and
he was not sure whether or not this neat little mod would interfere with the
-6 mount or not. So before I order it, I would appreciate hearing from
anyone who has successfully installed one, especially if you have some
pictures. Thanks.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
>Question for the list: has anyone been able to use the 90 degree oil filter
>adapters on and RV-6 engine mount?
I had one installed but it required an additional spacer for my mount. May or
may not for you.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/rv-list/0089.html
>
>
> "Ed Anderson wrote...
>
> Not saying by any means that there are not valid failures of tests,
> there
> certainly are - but it is equally clear that jobs, positions, etc are at
>
> stake and they are based not on the number of people that pass a test
> but on
> the number that fail or at least the number that require "extensive"
> study
> and scrutiny..
>
>
> We are subject to Quality Assurance audits in our industry. Just like
> FAA testing, by the very nature of audits is they MUST find something.
> Somebody must fail or there would be no reason for existence.
>
> So, we were not averse to leaving a couple of obvious, easily noticed
> (and easily corrected!) minor discrepancies that they could pounce on.
> They went away happy, we were glad to be rid of them and the world
> continued to turn.
>
> The FAA medical system is a pox on all of us.
>
> Chuck
>
Gee, Chuck sounds like you were in the Military. We knew that when the IG
(Inspector General) showed up with his team that if you didn't have
something easy for them to find and write you up on, they would stay longer
and keep digging until they found something. That was their job and if
they didn't find anything that meant they weren't doing their job.
Ed A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter |
Check the Firewall Forwad Pages on my site, www.4sierratango.com I have an
oil filter adaptor on an RV-7. The mounts are very similar I think. My
Adaptor came with my engine from Mattituck, so I'm not sure of it's original
source.
When you go to fit the engine it looks like it won't work at all, but it's
easily clear.
Mark.
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter
Question for the list: has anyone been able to use the 90 degree oil filter
adapters on and RV-6 engine mount? I am ordering a new engine from Bart and
he was not sure whether or not this neat little mod would interfere with the
-6 mount or not. So before I order it, I would appreciate hearing from
anyone who has successfully installed one, especially if you have some
pictures. Thanks.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
________________________________ Message 19
____________________________________
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter
>Question for the list: has anyone been able to use the 90 degree oil
>filter
>adapters on and RV-6 engine mount?
I had one installed but it required an additional spacer for my mount. May
or
may not for you.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | phil barnette <barnettephillip(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any builders in Utah (SLC or OGD) or Surrounding area |
check out mike howe's and scott schmidt's web sites - they're doing RV10s, I'm
here in salt lake, finishing my garage for arrival of -10 empennage...
also the salt lake EAA web site, i don't have the web link handy, but it is in
mike howe's web site - he holds sheetmetal classes, etc out of bountiful i believe...
seems like there are a lot of folk around here getting into RVs...
phil barnette
KSLC
gerns25(at)netscape.net wrote:
I am getting ready to purchase and start construction on an RV7. I have been told
that the builder community of RV's is amazing and judging from this forum,
I would agree. This will be my first airplane construction project (I owned a
kitfox that was built by a local guy here so I have a bit of experience maintaining
aircraft) so I would like to get to know some local guys that have "been
there, done that" that I can talk to and hopefully get some tips and tricks from.
Obviously, any moral support and words of encouragement to keep working and
finish the project are always welcome. I would love to talk to anyone who is
currently building, flying or otherwise doing something related to any of the
Vans Aircraft line. Thanks guys and I hope to be joining in on the forum with
my own project, and at some point flying, RV7!
Darin Hawkes
Look What The New Netscape.com Can Do!
Now you can preview dozens of stories and have the ones you select delivered to you without ever leaving the Top Home Page. And the new Tool Box gives you one click access to local Movie times, Maps, White Pages and more. See for yourself at http://netcenter.netscape.com/netcenter/
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV8A Vetterman Exhaust for Sale |
Jerry.
Are you still interested in the exhaust for your RV?
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | attaching plenum |
I am working on my engine baffles and contemplating cutting them short
and putting a fiberglass top on rather than sealing it against the top
cowl. It will add a lot of strength to the baffles and probably put
less stress on the cowling. I know other builders have done this.
My question is how to attach the fiberglass to the top edge of the
baffles. A piano hinge would be good, but it is rather wide - it would
extend down more than an inch from the top of the baffle. Also if the
piano hinges aren't all oriented horizontally - which is hard to do - it
seems like it would be hard to get the thing on and off. There's always
camlocs, but they're expensive and don't distribute the load as well as
a piano hinge.
How have those of you who have done this attached the fiberglass to the
top edge of the baffle?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching plenum |
How about #8 flush screws & tinnerman washers through the fiberglass, going
through .025" or .032" angle along the top edge of the aluminum baffle sides
& back, into nutplates?
At least that's what I plan on doing when I convert to a fiberglass plenum
top at some point in the future!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (650 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: attaching plenum
>
> I am working on my engine baffles and contemplating cutting them short
> and putting a fiberglass top on rather than sealing it against the top
> cowl. It will add a lot of strength to the baffles and probably put
> less stress on the cowling. I know other builders have done this.
>
> My question is how to attach the fiberglass to the top edge of the
> baffles. A piano hinge would be good, but it is rather wide - it would
> extend down more than an inch from the top of the baffle. Also if the
> piano hinges aren't all oriented horizontally - which is hard to do - it
> seems like it would be hard to get the thing on and off. There's always
> camlocs, but they're expensive and don't distribute the load as well as
> a piano hinge.
>
> How have those of you who have done this attached the fiberglass to the
> top edge of the baffle?
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald L. Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system |
mail003.fastfreedom.net
autolearn=ham version=3.0.4
In an RV8 has anyone used infinity grip switches, Vans relay and Vans positioning
system? Search of the archeives reveals nothing. Thought I would check before
experimenting and possibly burning up some parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | camera in the tail |
Larry and anyone knowedgeable, what do you guys think about this
EXVIEW Sony HD230CWX Color PTZ Bullet SPY Camera 520Res Digital Pan+Tilt+3x Zoom+Remote
Control High Definition camera which comes with a remote function pad.
If the link below out of ebay doesn't work try the QVC store link below.
http://cgi.ebay.com/EXVIEW-Sony-HD230CWX-Color-PTZ-Bullet-SPY-Camera-520Res_W0QQitemZ5762792893QQcategoryZ48634QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://www.qvcvideo.com/main/products/?category=13&bcat=54
Seems like overkill but it was a Sony and it has cheaply prices lenses with different
FOV. I can get the widest FOV lense for $15.00.
I just don't know how good it works on "auto" if you leave the remote key pad alone.
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> I think I found a website that lets you figure out from the spec sheet what the
> FOV is and it also let's you see the effect of different FOV from the same spot.
>
> Go to the web site below and click on the link to "Compare FOV"
>
> http://viosport.com/store/customer/ourgear.php?page=ac3_overview
>
> It looks like the 88 degree or 2.9mm lense is the one I'm probably wanting.
>
> lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> >
> > Hi Lucky
> >
> > What about a camera on the wing? I am currently testing a wing-mount for my
> > Videocamera. I made it from fiberglass and ACRYL-FOAM. It just gets taped to
> > the wing and you can take it off in a minute.
> >
> > http://www.rv-4.de/gallerie/Detail1_img/KHF.jpg
> >
> > A Testvideo ist here:
> >
> > http://www.rv-4.de/videos.htm
> >
> > Happy Landings
> >
> > Thomas, RV-4
> >
> >
> > --
> > Lust, ein paar Euro nebenbei zu verdienen? Ohne Kosten, ohne Risiko!
> > Satte Provisionen fr GMX Partner: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/partner
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> I think I found a website that lets you figure out from the spec sheet what the
> FOV is and it also let's you see the effect of different FOV from the same spot.
>
> Go to the web site below and click on the link to "Compare FOV"
>
> http://viosport.com/store/customer/ourgear.php?page=ac3_overview
>
> It looks like the 88 degree or 2.9mm lense is the one I'm probably wanting.
>
> lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: "Thomas Lukasczyk"
>
> Hi Lucky
>
> What about a camera on the wing? I am currently testing a wing-mount for my
> Videocamera. I made it from fiberglass and ACRYL-FOAM. It just gets taped to
> the wing and you can take it off in a minute.
>
> http://www.rv-4.de/gallerie/Detail1_img/KHF.jpg
>
> A Testvideo ist here:
>
> http://www.rv-4.de/videos.htm
>
> Happy Landings
>
> Thomas, RV-4
>
>
> --
> Lust, ein paar Euro nebenbei zu verdienen? Ohne Kosten, ohne Risiko!
> Satte Provisionen fr GMX Partner: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/partner
>
>
> he RV-List Email Forum -
>
>
>
>
>
>
Larry and anyone knowedgeable, what do you guys think about this
EXVIEW Sony HD230CWX Color PTZ Bullet SPY Camera 520Res Digital
Pan+Tilt+3x Zoom+Remote Control High Definition camera which comes with a
remote function pad. If the link below out of ebay doesn't work try the QVC store
link below.
http://cgi.ebay.com/EXVIEW-Sony-HD230CWX-Color-PTZ-Bullet-SPY-Camera-520Res_W0QQitemZ5762792893QQcategoryZ48634QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://www.qvcvideo.com/main/products/?category=13bcat=54
Seems like overkill but it was a Sony and it has cheaply prices lenses with different
FOV. I can get the widest FOV lense for $15.00.
I just don't know how good it works on "auto" if you leave the remote key pad alone.
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
I think I found a website that lets you figure out from the spec sheet what the
FOV is and it also let's you see the effect of different FOV from the same spot.
Go to the web site below and click on the link to "Compare FOV"
http://viosport.com/store/customer/ourgear.php?page=ac3_overview
It looks like the 88 degree or 2.9mm lense is the one I'm probably wanting.
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Thomas Lukasczyk"
Hi Lucky
What about a camera on the wing? I am currently testing a wing-mount for my
Videocamera
. I made it from fiberglass and ACRYL-FOAM. It just gets taped to
the wing and you can take it off in a minute.
http://www.rv-4.de/gallerie/Detail1_img/KHF.jpg
A Testvideo ist here:
http://www.rv-4.de/videos.htm
Happy Landings
Thomas, RV-4
--
Lust, ein paar Euro nebenbei zu verdienen? Ohne Kosten, ohne Risiko!
Satte Provisionen fr GMX Partner: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/partner
I think I found a website that lets you figure out from the spec sheet what the
FOV is and it also let's you see the effect of different FOV from the same spot.
Go to the web site below and click on the link to "Compare FOV"
http:
//viosport.com/store/customer/ourgear.php?page=ac3_overview
It looks like the 88 degree or 2.9mm lense is the one I'm probably wanting.
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Thomas Lukasczyk"
Hi Lucky
What about a camera on the wing? I am currently testing a wing-mount for my
Videocamera. I made it from fiberglass and ACRYL-FOAM. It just gets taped to
the wing and you can take it off in a minute.
http://www.rv-4.de/gallerie/Detail1_img/KHF.jpg
A Testvideo ist here:
http://www.rv-4.de/videos.htm
Happy Landings
Thomas, RV-4
--
Lust, ein paar Euro nebenbei zu verdienen? Ohne Kosten, ohne Risiko!
Satte Provisionen fr GMX Partner: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/part
ner
he RV-List Email Forum -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching plenum |
I'd avoid using piano hinge in this application. The hinge pins will
fret something fierce with the engine vibration. Use screws and
nutplates. I did them same but with an aluminum top, but the idea is
the same.
Pics here:
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/plenum.htm
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system |
Hi Don,
We have been using Infiniity's grip since we first flew our 8A in August,
2001 and Highly recommend it - It reduces your work load and is comfortible.
Our switch lay is as follows:
Top - Center - Coolie hat (Trim - Elev and Airl)
Left - Flap ( Toggle - momtenarty > Up and Down)
Right - Start button (relay req)
Trigger - Comm
Left Side - Pulse Light - On or Off (Taxi & Landing lights on full time)
Bottom - Auto Pilot Disconnect
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Donald L. Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system
>Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 20:51:45 -0500 mail003.fastfreedom.net
>autolearn=ham version=3.0.4
>
>
>In an RV8 has anyone used infinity grip switches, Vans relay and Vans
>positioning system? Search of the archeives reveals nothing. Thought I
>would check before experimenting and possibly burning up some parts.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system |
Charles:
Having the starter button on the stick sounds like a great
convenience, but isn't there a fairly high chance of engaging the
started by accident in flight? Your fingers are a fraction of an inch
from it all the time and the switch doesn't take much pressure to
activate.
Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
> It reduces your work load and is comfortible.
>
>Our switch lay is as follows:
>
> Top - Center - Coolie hat (Trim - Elev and Airl)
> Left - Flap ( Toggle - momtenarty > Up and Down)
> Right - Start button (relay req)
>
>
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Infinity grip and Van's flap position system |
My under construction 8A will sport the same arrangement on an Infinity joystick
grip as my flying 6A. I use the trigger for PTT, the coolie hat for 2 axis
trim, and the toggle as a momentary flap switch. This simple arrangement allows
one touch operation for all these functions and greatly eases pattern chores
with the left hand firmly on the grip at all times. I highly recommend it.
The necessary relays were all purchased from Van's. I have a UMA flap position
indicator installed but in reality, rarely refer to it. Flap deployment is
easily felt through the seat of the pants and working in concert with the AOA
and airspeed indicator, the FPI is an option I will not likely install on the
next project.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 89 hours
RV-8A empennage complete
In an RV8 has anyone used infinity grip switches, Vans relay and Vans positioning
system? Search of the archeives reveals nothing. Thought I would check before
experimenting and possibly burning up some parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip and Van's flap position system |
>Charles:
> Having the starter button on the stick sounds like a great
>convenience, but isn't there a fairly high chance of engaging the
>started by accident in flight?
My opinion is that any minimal perceived convenience is vastly
overruled by the potential of damage if you hit it once the engine
is running.
Bad idea IMO.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)ashcreekwireless.com> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching plenum |
I friend of mine attached a fiberglass plenum on an -8A. He did it just as Dan
described. Shortened the baffles a little, fit .032 angle around the perimeter
of the baffles, laid up the plenum over the engine, drilled downward through
the .032 angle, then installed nutplates on the bottom of the angle. Used screws
and tinnermans on the plenum. Works great. (and looks great).
I have the Airflow Performance Purge valve assembly on my 7A, and I too plan on
installing a glass plenum, but I've had to do some re-thinking of the geometry
of the purge valve arm and linkage to make it fit under a plenum...it will work!
Bob Brown
7A - fitting lower cowl @$#%@#
Darn that Ryton sump! My advice, think twice...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system |
I also wanted a start button on the stick, to make it easier to start
a fuel-injected engine when hot, without running out of hands. I was
worried about the risk of hitting the button in flight, so I put
another switch on the panel to enable or disable the switch on the
stick. The panel switch is mounted right above the throttle, is
guarded, and has three positions:
Bottom - Starter switch on the switch disabled,
Middle - Starter swtich on the switch enabled,
Up (momentary position) - crank the starter.
Wiring diagram:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/elec_sys_pdfs/
2.1_Ignition,_Mag,_Starter.pdf
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
On 23 Oct 2005, at 11:57, sarg314 wrote:
>
> Charles:
> Having the starter button on the stick sounds like a great
> convenience, but isn't there a fairly high chance of engaging the
> started by accident in flight? Your fingers are a fraction of an inch
> from it all the time and the switch doesn't take much pressure to
> activate.
>
> Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> It reduces your work load and is comfortible.
>>
>> Our switch lay is as follows:
>>
>> Top - Center - Coolie hat (Trim - Elev and Airl)
>> Left - Flap ( Toggle - momtenarty > Up and Down)
>> Right - Start button (relay req)
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system |
> Our switch lay is as follows:
>
> Top - Center - Coolie hat (Trim - Elev and Airl)
> Left - Flap ( Toggle - momtenarty > Up and Down)
> Right - Start button (relay req)
>
> Trigger - Comm
>
> Left Side - Pulse Light - On or Off (Taxi & Landing
> lights on full time)
>
> Bottom - Auto Pilot Disconnect
What is the throttle hand doing while the stick hand is so occupied? I
simply cannot see the risk/benefit of having the flaps on the stick (not to
mention the complexity of a relay). The max flap speed on these planes is
about half of what they can fly at. Why not put the (no relay required)
flap switch where the throttle hand can actuate it? Another consideration
is that one will want to be actuating the trim during flap movement in most
landing cases, which could get interesting if that one hand is asked to do
both while also flying the plane. About then the tower will ask you for
something, requiring also transmitting...
Regarding the starter, sooner or later, it will be actuated in flight if the
button is on the stick. I know many will reply to this saying "it hasn't
ever happened to me", but odds are that it will happen given enough flying
hours on the plane.
Please give this some thought, particularly go through complete "flights"
while sitting at the mocked up panel/cockpit.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 684 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Inman" <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Beaded end on aluminum tube |
I have to make new oil return lines
on two cylinders,because they interfere with
the wire holding bottom of the baffles.
These aluminum tubes have a bead
where it enters the hose to the crankcase.
SEE http://www.mts.net/~ghinman/Bead.html
What tool do I need to make these?
George Inman
Home 204 287 8334
Cell 204 799 7062
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: attaching plenum |
The scres are certainly up to the task, but doesn't that make it a lot
of work to take the plenum off? There must be 30 of them. If I was
going to use fasteners like that, I think I would have to go with
camlocs or dzus, or something that only takes a 90 deg. rotation.
Karen and Robert Brown wrote:
>
>I friend of mine attached a fiberglass plenum on an -8A. He did it just as Dan
described. Shortened the baffles a little, fit .032 angle around the perimeter
of the baffles, laid up the plenum over the engine, drilled downward through
the .032 angle, then installed nutplates on the bottom of the angle. Used
screws and tinnermans on the plenum. Works great. (and looks great).
>
>Bob Brown
>7A - fitting lower cowl @$#%@#
>Darn that Ryton sump! My advice, think twice...
>
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip and Van's flap possition system |
I failed proof reading 101. The list of positions on the panel
mounted switch should be:
Bottom - Starter switch on the stick disabled,
Middle - Starter swtich on the stick enabled,
Up (momentary position) - crank the starter.
Kevin
On 23 Oct 2005, at 12:59, Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> I also wanted a start button on the stick, to make it easier to start
> a fuel-injected engine when hot, without running out of hands. I was
> worried about the risk of hitting the button in flight, so I put
> another switch on the panel to enable or disable the switch on the
> stick. The panel switch is mounted right above the throttle, is
> guarded, and has three positions:
>
> Bottom - Starter switch on the switch disabled,
> Middle - Starter swtich on the switch enabled,
> Up (momentary position) - crank the starter.
>
> Wiring diagram:
>
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/elec_sys_pdfs/
> 2.1_Ignition,_Mag,_Starter.pdf
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
> On 23 Oct 2005, at 11:57, sarg314 wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Charles:
>> Having the starter button on the stick sounds like a great
>> convenience, but isn't there a fairly high chance of engaging the
>> started by accident in flight? Your fingers are a fraction of an inch
>> from it all the time and the switch doesn't take much pressure to
>> activate.
>>
>> Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> It reduces your work load and is comfortible.
October 05, 2005 - October 23, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ri