RV-Archive.digest.vol-ro
January 02, 2006 - January 13, 2006
For some photos of it our website has photos of one prototype in the SeaRey
photos.
Our very small display may also be mounted on the panel where it is in your
peripheral vision. size 2.11 tall X .6 wide x .5 deep
Any questions please ask off line
Thanks
Elbie
Fly the Safe Angle with the RiteAngle
EM Aviation, LLC
13411 NE Prairie Rd
Brush Prairie, WA 98696
www.riteangle.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice |
I think the point he was making is that a Rotax doesn't need to be torn
apart at 1500 hours either, but it's a good idea to get into any engine
near it's TBO or recommended maintenance interval and take a look around.
Your statistically insignificant claims about Lycomings don't really add to
the discussion, either. We've all heard about the proverbial Lycoming with
5000 hours on it with "minimal maintenance", and I agree, there are lots
that make TBO without any problems at all.
On the flip side, "and there are some that don't make it that long" doesn't
really cover it. I can recall at least a dozen off this list alone that
failed well before TBO. Further, I have first-hand knowledge of two
failing (ingested valves) before TBO. One I was flying behind at the time.
The other was a plane that I flew regularly. Both resulted in dead-stick
landings, but no damage other than to the engine. I'm sure many people
here know of similar failures from their local flying groups.
No engine is foolproof. But you can be reasonably sure that a
well-maintained engine, be it a Rotax, Automotive conversion, or Lycoming,
will be a reliable engine.
-Rob
On 8:54:28 2006-01-02 "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> Yes they will have cross harching down where the rings dont slide,
> but keep in mind, a Lycoming probably won't be tore apart at 1500
> hours to find out. There are many Lyc's out there with 4 and 5 thousand
> hours total time which have been through normal overhauls with parts
> replaced for normal wear as needed. There are also many which go 2200
> and 2300 hours and even more, before they get tore apart the first
> time. And there are some that have had a top and some haven't at those
> hours. And then there are some that don't make it that long. It is kind
> of how they were operated and maintained...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Sending Units |
Hi All,
I've just started working on my fuel sending units and tested both outside
the tank, attached to a fuel gauge. They are the stock Stewart Warner and
Vans gauge. One has a drop out, to empty, at about 3 gallons on the gauge,
the other at 12 gallons, then comes back. Should I send them back or is
normal for all at some point or does it really matter.
Thanks,
Paul
RV8QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sending Units |
>I've just started working on my fuel sending units and tested both outside
>the tank, attached to a fuel gauge. They are the stock Stewart Warner and
>Vans gauge. One has a drop out, to empty, at about 3 gallons on the gauge,
>the other at 12 gallons, then comes back. Should I send them back or is
>normal for all at some point or does it really matter.
I assume that my sender units are Vans and the original fuel gauges were
empty at around 1/8 and 1/4 from empty. Not ideal. I replaced the fuel gauges
with newer Vans units and they are fine where it counts (below ten gallons
and probably under 15). Despite having a fuel totalizer I consider accurate
gauges at the lower end to be important.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | i39 February Flyin Date |
I'll go ahead and get the ball rolling on the i39 RV flyin. We've had good
weather luck so far with the last Saturday in February, so Saturday Feb.
25th. it is. I'll soon start on door prizes and again line up "Hooter" girls
for serving those world famous wings. Heck I guess we could leave out the
wings and just invite the girls:-). Mark those calenders to see old
friends, new RVs those "Hoote....", heck I guess I already mentioned them.
Remember, we have approached 100 RVs each of the past two years so if you
want to mix and mingle with a gaggle of RV's this has been a nice place to
kick off the flying season. More info to follow.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7, "Black Magic"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6(at)grandecom.net |
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice |
Quoting "Rob Prior (rv7)" :
>
> I think the point he was making is that a Rotax doesn't need to be torn
> apart at 1500 hours either, but it's a good idea to get into any engine
> near it's TBO or recommended maintenance interval and take a look around.
>
> Your statistically insignificant claims about Lycomings don't really add to
> the discussion, either. We've all heard about the proverbial Lycoming with
> 5000 hours on it with "minimal maintenance", and I agree, there are lots
> that make TBO without any problems at all.
>
> On the flip side, "and there are some that don't make it that long" doesn't
> really cover it. I can recall at least a dozen off this list alone that
> failed well before TBO. Further, I have first-hand knowledge of two
> failing (ingested valves) before TBO. One I was flying behind at the time.
> The other was a plane that I flew regularly. Both resulted in dead-stick
> landings, but no damage other than to the engine. I'm sure many people
> here know of similar failures from their local flying groups.
>
> No engine is foolproof. But you can be reasonably sure that a
> well-maintained engine, be it a Rotax, Automotive conversion, or Lycoming,
> will be a reliable engine.
>
> -Rob
>
> On 8:54:28 2006-01-02 "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> > Yes they will have cross harching down where the rings dont slide,
> > but keep in mind, a Lycoming probably won't be tore apart at 1500
> > hours to find out. There are many Lyc's out there with 4 and 5 thousand
> > hours total time which have been through normal overhauls with parts
> > replaced for normal wear as needed. There are also many which go 2200
> > and 2300 hours and even more, before they get tore apart the first
> > time. And there are some that have had a top and some haven't at those
> > hours. And then there are some that don't make it that long. It is kind
> > of how they were operated and maintained...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble & Subie |
since the prop makes most of the noise, how is the muffler going to make a
significant difference? When the prop is slow on landing the engine is
pretty quiet.
-------Original Message-------
From: Terry Watson
Date: 01/01/06 11:49:19
Subject: RE: RV-List: Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble & Subie
For what it's worth, I have to be with Mickey on this one. One of the
reasons for being a good neighbor is to keep your neighbors from passing
laws to force you to do what being a good neighbor would have meant in the
first place. We all should know by now that the best way to screw up a good
idea is to pass a law that makes it mandatory. If we don't show enough
respect for non-flyer's sensitivities to the noise we make, we are insuring
the day will come when FAA inspectors will be sitting by the runway with
noise-measuring equipment writing violations for those that miss some
arbitrary standard. The longer we can put off that day the better.
Maybe some of you really smart guys can come up with a way to tone down a
Lycomming on an RV with the least loss of power and increase in weight.
Didn't I read here on the list some time back that the gentleman that builds
most of the exhaust pipes for us is working on it?
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Finishing?
Mickey,
In other words, you can have my straight pipes soon as you remove them from
my cold, dead, hands... YMMV of course.
Behind asbestos barrier...
Jack L.
I think if we take an active role in reducing the amount of noise
our aircraft make, we'll continue to enjoy our hobby. Many pilots
I've spoken with feel that what will happen is that they'll
eventually be forced to put on mufflers, and the longer we can
delay, the better. I believe that the general public does not
see it this way - they will be happy to see the FAA or TSA or
any other agency simply shut us down.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6(at)grandecom.net |
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice |
Quoting "Rob Prior (rv7)" :
Rob, You hit the nail on the head.
Maintainance,
T. J.
>
> I think the point he was making is that a Rotax doesn't need to be torn
> apart at 1500 hours either, but it's a good idea to get into any engine
> near it's TBO or recommended maintenance interval and take a look around.
>
> Your statistically insignificant claims about Lycomings don't really add to
> the discussion, either. We've all heard about the proverbial Lycoming with
> 5000 hours on it with "minimal maintenance", and I agree, there are lots
> that make TBO without any problems at all.
>
> On the flip side, "and there are some that don't make it that long" doesn't
> really cover it. I can recall at least a dozen off this list alone that
> failed well before TBO. Further, I have first-hand knowledge of two
> failing (ingested valves) before TBO. One I was flying behind at the time.
> The other was a plane that I flew regularly. Both resulted in dead-stick
> landings, but no damage other than to the engine. I'm sure many people
> here know of similar failures from their local flying groups.
>
> No engine is foolproof. But you can be reasonably sure that a
> well-maintained engine, be it a Rotax, Automotive conversion, or Lycoming,
> will be a reliable engine.
>
> -Rob
>
> On 8:54:28 2006-01-02 "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> > Yes they will have cross harching down where the rings dont slide,
> > but keep in mind, a Lycoming probably won't be tore apart at 1500
> > hours to find out. There are many Lyc's out there with 4 and 5 thousand
> > hours total time which have been through normal overhauls with parts
> > replaced for normal wear as needed. There are also many which go 2200
> > and 2300 hours and even more, before they get tore apart the first
> > time. And there are some that have had a top and some haven't at those
> > hours. And then there are some that don't make it that long. It is kind
> > of how they were operated and maintained...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble & Subie |
Some airfields and seaplane bases recommend or require slowing the prop down
to 2500 rpm as soon as you are safely clear of obstructions. I think this is
primarily to reduce prop noise, but it of course affects the engine noise
too.
I think the real point is that you reduce noise where you can. I also
understand that 3-bladed props are quieter than two bladed props. Let's hope
they don't become required for noise reduction.
Terry
since the prop makes most of the noise, how is the muffler going to make a
significant difference? When the prop is slow on landing the engine is
pretty quiet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels(at)fmtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble & Subie |
Its takeoff where most of the problem is, and with straight pipes it is
flyover noise. Prop noise has to due with prop tip speed. A cessna 185
or 206 with a long prop really turns gas into noise, but most RV's and
other experimental it is mostly good old exhaust noise. Even my Honda
Civic powered Kitfox is loud without its SuperTrapp, with it you hardly
hear it takeoff. Denial is not just a river in Egypt.
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>since the prop makes most of the noise, how is the muffler going to make a
>significant difference? When the prop is slow on landing the engine is
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> |
| Subject: | Primer, what's the best ? |
OK, I'm just beginning and I'm ready to prime parts,,
any recommendations, I have the ones Van's mention es in the instructions and
was just going to pick one of these ??
or ?
Dan
-8 Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DANBERGERONHAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Primer, what's the best ? |
Dan: Re choice of primers. Finally a question I can answer! I went w/ one
of Van's recommendations, the Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash Primer, and am
satisfied w/ it. I work the parts over well w/ Scotch Brite pads, wash them
down w/ MEK, and spray two coats of the primer. It dries quickly, looks ok,
and seems to hold up just fine. I bought a junker spray gun fm Home Depot and
taught myself how to use it. My first attempts at spraying empennage parts
weren't too pretty, but hey, only the bugs are ever going to see it. The wings
were much better, and the fuselage parts look great. Be sure to get yourself a
first class respirator (I have a 3-M), change the filters often, use
chemical resistant gloves, and have plenty of fresh air w/ flow thru ventilation
(I
use two box fans) for both the cleaning w/ MEK and the spraying w/ the primer;
MEK and primers will do nasty things to your body.
Good luck & good building,
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A (final riveting the aft fuselage and thinking about an engine)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer, what's the best ? |
check the archives... I'm punting this one...
Darrell
Dan wrote:
OK, I'm just beginning and I'm ready to prime parts,,
any recommendations, I have the ones Van's mention es in the instructions and was
just going to pick one of these ??
or ?
Dan
-8 Tail
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
| Subject: | Happy New Year's |
Happy New Year's Everybody,
This website is pics of New Year's Day First Flight,
http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/010106/index.htm
<http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/010106/index.htm>
Warning, last few shots are very graphic after a medium sized bird decided
to become one with the cosmos...
W
Happy New Year's
Happy New Year's Everybody,
This website is pics of New Year's Day First Flight,
http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/010106/index.htm
Warning, last few shots are very graphic after a medium sized bird decided to become
one with the cosmos...
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerns25(at)netscape.net |
| Subject: | Alternate source for MK-319BS rivets? |
Does anyone know of an alternate source for the 7/64" flush rivets that are spec'd
as optional in some of the "tight" areas of the 7 tail? I know I can get
them from Van's and most likely will but they typically take a week or more to
ship and then transit time. I am too impatient to wait it another source exists,
unfortunately, I have the "I want everything yesterday" disease. Anyone
know of a supplier?
Darin
RV7 (N619BP)
Empennage finished (except for a few of these rivets)
Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
http://mail.netscape.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels(at)fmtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate source for MK-319BS rivets? |
See if you have a local Fastenal store. They have all sorts of good stuff.
gerns25(at)netscape.net wrote:
>
>Does anyone know of an alternate source for the 7/64" flush rivets that are spec'd
as optional in some of the "tight" areas of the 7 tail? I know I can get
them from Van's and most likely will but they typically take a week or more to
ship and then transit time. I am too impatient to wait it another source exists,
unfortunately, I have the "I want everything yesterday" disease. Anyone
know of a supplier?
>
>Darin
>RV7 (N619BP)
>Empennage finished (except for a few of these rivets)
>Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
>Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
>http://mail.netscape.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer, what's the best ? |
> OK, I'm just beginning and I'm ready to prime parts,,
> any recommendations, I have the ones Van's mention es in the instructions
> and was just going to pick one of these ??
> or ?
>
> Dan
> -8 Tail
Dan, you are asking one of two or three questions that are guarranteed to
spark debate and not likely to find much concensus. Nosewheel vs. tailwheel
is another. All that notwithstanding, here are the materials and technique
I've adopted and used for construction of two RV airframes now...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm#Primer
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Alternate Supplier for MK-319BS Rivets |
Wicks Aircraft Supply in Highland, IL. They ship fast and I have used them
for years. See www.wicksaircraft.com .
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
Flying 100+ Hrs.
Northfield, MN
diesel(at)rconnect.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
There is a new web site that I hope will become of interest to all RV builders
and pilots. It is the RV Wiki, a "wiki" or online encyclopedia about RV
building and flying.
http://www.rvwiki.org/
A wiki is a type of web site where anybody can easily add new information and
also edit the information that's already there. The idea is to create a
collaborative "encyclopedia" of knowledge and experience on RV building and
flying. The RV Wiki is brand-new, but already builders are posting articles on
various topics. I encourage you to visit and, if you like, write an article or
revise one that's already there.
If you have any questions on how to post articles or edit them, feel free to
write me off-list. See the postscript to this email for suggested topics to
write about.
The RV Wiki was inspired by conversations I have had with Eustace Bowhay over
the past five or six years regarding the information that's available to RV
builders on the internet. Eustace has been concerned for some time that there
is a lot of bad advice mixed in with the good advice, and it's sometimes hard
for builders to identify which is which. Eustace and I have talked on many
occasions about building a web site with authoritative information, information
that has been vetted by experienced builders or bona fide experts in each field
(structures, engines, avionics, etc.)
The RV Wiki is a little different from what Eustace and I originally
envisioned, but I think it offers the promise of being a very useful site for
RV builders and pilots.
Dwight Frye, an RV-7 builder in North Carolina, is the technical person behind
the wiki, with input from John Spicer of rivetbangers.com. My role is to
encourage RV builders and pilots to contribute their expertise and ideas in the
form of articles (or revisions to existing articles).
The RV Wiki is a non-commercial venture.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
---
Postscript: Suggested topics for aspiring contributors.
One of the key features is lists of frequently-asked questions. Here are some
examples of the questions that are in need of answers.
Building
=======
Airframe
Baggage capacity: what are my options for increasing it?
Fuel tanks: should I slosh them or seal them?
Smoking rivets: what do I do about them?
Controls
Right stick left throttle: how can I do it?
I have a physical disability, how can I modify my RV's controls
so I can fly it?
Electrics and Lighting
Cockpit lighting: what are my choices?
Landing lights: what are my options?
Instruments and Avionics
AOA gauges: are they worthwhile?
Autopilots: which is best?
Gyros and acro: do they mix?
Painting
Primers: which should I use?
Trim: decals or paint?
Propellers
Acro: which propeller is best?
Pitch: can or should I change it?
Riveting
How can I set solid rivets near the trailing edges of the control
surfaces?
Regulations
Can I import a completed RV from the U.S. into Canada?
Tools
Rivet guns: 2X or 3X?
Flying
=====
Engine
What's the best engine break-in procedure?
IFR
Is an RV a good IFR platform?
Limits of Speed and Loading
Is Vne determined by IAS or TAS?
Safety
How safe is an RV?
Spins
Is is safe to spin an RV-6?
Test Flying
What's the best way to adjust aileron trim?
Training
Can I learn to fly in my RV? Should I?
Transitioning to an RV:Tailwheel vs Nosewheel, 7 vs 9
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> |
RV Wikw, looks great, as a beginner I'm looking at as many sites as possible, So,
thanks,, good work and I'm looking forward to checking it often along with
the rest of the great sites and info out here,
Dan
-8 tail
Tedd McHenry wrote:
There is a new web site that I hope will become of interest to all RV builders
and pilots. It is the RV Wiki, a "wiki" or online encyclopedia about RV
building and flying.
http://www.rvwiki.org/
A wiki is a type of web site where anybody can easily add new information and
also edit the information that's already there. The idea is to create a
collaborative "encyclopedia" of knowledge and experience on RV building and
flying. The RV Wiki is brand-new, but already builders are posting articles on
various topics. I encourage you to visit and, if you like, write an article or
revise one that's already there.
If you have any questions on how to post articles or edit them, feel free to
write me off-list. See the postscript to this email for suggested topics to
write about.
The RV Wiki was inspired by conversations I have had with Eustace Bowhay over
the past five or six years regarding the information that's available to RV
builders on the internet. Eustace has been concerned for some time that there
is a lot of bad advice mixed in with the good advice, and it's sometimes hard
for builders to identify which is which. Eustace and I have talked on many
occasions about building a web site with authoritative information, information
that has been vetted by experienced builders or bona fide experts in each field
(structures, engines, avionics, etc.)
The RV Wiki is a little different from what Eustace and I originally
envisioned, but I think it offers the promise of being a very useful site for
RV builders and pilots.
Dwight Frye, an RV-7 builder in North Carolina, is the technical person behind
the wiki, with input from John Spicer of rivetbangers.com. My role is to
encourage RV builders and pilots to contribute their expertise and ideas in the
form of articles (or revisions to existing articles).
The RV Wiki is a non-commercial venture.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
---
Postscript: Suggested topics for aspiring contributors.
One of the key features is lists of frequently-asked questions. Here are some
examples of the questions that are in need of answers.
Building
=======
Airframe
Baggage capacity: what are my options for increasing it?
Fuel tanks: should I slosh them or seal them?
Smoking rivets: what do I do about them?
Controls
Right stick left throttle: how can I do it?
I have a physical disability, how can I modify my RV's controls
so I can fly it?
Electrics and Lighting
Cockpit lighting: what are my choices?
Landing lights: what are my options?
Instruments and Avionics
AOA gauges: are they worthwhile?
Autopilots: which is best?
Gyros and acro: do they mix?
Painting
Primers: which should I use?
Trim: decals or paint?
Propellers
Acro: which propeller is best?
Pitch: can or should I change it?
Riveting
How can I set solid rivets near the trailing edges of the control
surfaces?
Regulations
Can I import a completed RV from the U.S. into Canada?
Tools
Rivet guns: 2X or 3X?
Flying
=====
Engine
What's the best engine break-in procedure?
IFR
Is an RV a good IFR platform?
Limits of Speed and Loading
Is Vne determined by IAS or TAS?
Safety
How safe is an RV?
Spins
Is is safe to spin an RV-6?
Test Flying
What's the best way to adjust aileron trim?
Training
Can I learn to fly in my RV? Should I?
Transitioning to an RV:Tailwheel vs Nosewheel, 7 vs 9
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sending Units |
I just tested my Van's gauges with the SW sending units. At 2.5gal they read 2.5
gal. At 5 gal the left gauge read 4.5gal, the right read 6 gal. In my opinion,
an erratic reading is unacceptable & probably indicates a faulty sending
unit. An erroneous but consistent reading can be corrected by a placard.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Hi All,
I've just started working on my fuel sending units and tested both outside
the tank, attached to a fuel gauge. They are the stock Stewart Warner and
Vans gauge. One has a drop out, to empty, at about 3 gallons on the gauge,
the other at 12 gallons, then comes back. Should I send them back or is
normal for all at some point or does it really matter.
Thanks,
Paul
RV8QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice |
I know of one particular C-172 with an H2AD that went 3854 hours between
overhauls, no top overhaul or anything of that nature (serious maintenance.)
It could have kept on going had the owner not worried about liability. It
never saw anything but Phillips X/C oil. The only thing that ever went
wrong with the engine was a worn magneto cam, requiring a precautionary
landing. This was also on a rental airplane that was regularly used and
abused, started frequently in cold conditions.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying, F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlashandCo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Crossing the Continental Divide |
This East Coast-er and wife are planning to visit friends in San Diego sometime
in the near future. I tried searching this List for recommended i.e. jaw-dropping
scenic routings through the Divide, but did not see much there. Maybe my
search words, I don't know.....Anybody want to offer their experiences? Looking
for a southern route Texas to Dan Diego and maybe a return northern CA through
Colorado. Thank you all.
Bob Gordon
RV6 @ 33N
70 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crossing the Continental Divide |
If you have no experience with mountain flying getting some would help.
You should understand leaning for take-off at higher altitudes and in cruise,
impact of high winds as they cross the mountains, lenticular clouds,
rotors, crossing ridges/passes and having O2 is important as well.
Also note that using sea level ground speed as a flare indicator at our
airports can be bad. Use normal airspeed (ground speed will be higher).
Thus take-off and landing distances are much higher than at sea level.
AOPA supposedly has a course online.
The good thing is that RVs do well here compared to Cessnas
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Crossing the Continental Divide |
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle(at)hq.InclineSoftworks.com> |
There are some practicalities of oxygen, but assuming that is not a
factor...
I can't say much about crossing the Great Plains - lots of the same.
But it is a great place for some low flying and brushing up on ground
reference maneuvers. We enjoy just popping in to little towns and
checking out the mid-west culture. Real America...
I would plan to fly to Durango, CO. They have the Silver Train (or used
to). Great views crossing the Rockies. The airport at Farmington NM.
has a great Mexican restaurant - and I am a connoisseur. But be careful
on the hot sauce - they make it hot there. I like it, but I am
accustomed to it.
On to San Diego, you can see Ship Wreck Rock (used as backdrop in many
TV commercials). I would swing north to the southern edge of the Grand
Canyon. Land at Grand Canyon Airport (high, but the RV will do it
fine).
Coming home, I would fly up the California coast, low, checking out the
wonder seascapes (sun sets over the water here). Fly along Big Sur to
land at Monterey, CA. Maybe head north to fly over the Golden Gate
Bridge (watch out for Class Bravo Airspace).
I live at Lake Tahoe - it is a beautiful lake and worth the stop. We
have two airports - TVL and TRK. Both are suitable, but high. TRK is
the easier. I hangar at RNO.
I would try to take in Canyon Lands National Park in Utah on the way
back. Again, wonderful land forms.
Next on up to Boise area and over to Jackson WY or West Yellowstone
(closed for winter). There are some wonderful obsidian flows that are
ONLY seen from the air. This route takes you over Grand Tetons park. I
highly recommend Yellowstone, best seasons are early spring/late fall
when kids are in school but no snow on ground. We love the last week in
September.
Flying eastbound is pretty easy from Jackson. The land is lower and
flatter, but not without weather.
Another stop along the way is Mt Rushmore (Rapid City). It is a bit of
a drive from the airport, but kind of interesting.
Hope this helps. If you use any of it, I would appreciate feedback and
pix on your return.
Dan Beadle
RV8 (empennage almost done!)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
FlashandCo(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Crossing the Continental Divide
This East Coast-er and wife are planning to visit friends in San Diego
sometime in the near future. I tried searching this List for
recommended i.e. jaw-dropping scenic routings through the Divide, but
did not see much there. Maybe my search words, I don't know.....Anybody
want to offer their experiences? Looking for a southern route Texas to
Dan Diego and maybe a return northern CA through Colorado. Thank you
all.
Bob Gordon
RV6 @ 33N
70 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crossing the Continental Divide |
Depending upon your desires, you could come back by any of these places:
Sedona AZ, Meteor Crater, Shiprock NM, Monument Valley Utah then east and up
over the Great Sand Dunes (CO)
then you are almost to the prairie. You can go further north to fly over
more mountains
where the terrain can be beautiful but not great for landing. While in the
area you could
go to Leadville (LHX) and around Pikes Peak
Sample pics below:
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/MesaAZMarch2004/SangreDeCristoMtnsSmall.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/MesaAZMarch2004/MoscaPassSmall.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/MesaAZMarch2004/MoscaPassSandDunesSmall.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/MesaAZMarch2004/SandDunesSmall.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/MesaAZMarch2004/ShipRock3Small.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/MesaAZMarch2004/ShipRock8Small.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/MesaAZMarch2004/ShipRock10Small.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/MesaAZMarch2004/MonumentValley1Small.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/MesaAZMarch2004/MonumentValley2Small.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/MesaAZMarch2004/FourCorners3Small.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/MesaAZMarch2004/MeteorCrater1Small.jpg
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crossing the Continental Divide |
Hey Bob,
As an airline pilot, the route between San Diego and just south of Pueblo,
CO. is wonderful, passing by the south side of the Grand Canyon just north
of Flagstaff. Draw a line on a chart or atlas for that matter and look at
all the sights you could pass on that route. I just had the pleasure of
flying that, but way up high, and all I could think about was wanting to be
down low getting a closer look.
Have Fun,
Paul
RV8QB
wings attached
----- Original Message -----
From: <FlashandCo(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Crossing the Continental Divide
>
> This East Coast-er and wife are planning to visit friends in San Diego
> sometime in the near future. I tried searching this List for recommended
> i.e. jaw-dropping scenic routings through the Divide, but did not see much
> there. Maybe my search words, I don't know.....Anybody want to offer
> their experiences? Looking for a southern route Texas to Dan Diego and
> maybe a return northern CA through Colorado. Thank you all.
>
> Bob Gordon
> RV6 @ 33N
> 70 hours
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Crossing the Continental Divide |
In a message dated 1/4/2006 7:24:27 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
FlashandCo(at)aol.com writes:
This East Coast-er and wife are planning to visit friends in San Diego
sometime in the near future. I tried searching this List for recommended i.e.
jaw-dropping scenic routings through the Divide, but did not see much there.
Maybe my search words, I don't know.....Anybody want to offer their
experiences? Looking for a southern route Texas to Dan Diego and maybe a return
northern CA through Colorado.
====================================
Pick up Rinker Buck's "Flight of Passage" for their routing in the Cub and
then return via northern CA and Northern UT (I-80) then up to Rapid City (I-90)
and east from there. This is a great view of the USA.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 771hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dan.beadle(at)inclinesoftworks.com" <dan.beadle(at)inclinesoftworks.com> |
| Subject: | Route Across Country |
1.53 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
There are some practicalities of oxygen, but assuming that is not a factor...
I can't say much about crossing the Great Plains - lots of the same. But it is
a great place for
some low flying and brushing up on ground reference maneuvers. We enjoy just popping
in to little
towns and checking out the mid-west culture. Real America...
I would plan to fly to Durango, CO. They have the Silver Train (or used to).
Great views crossing
the Rockies. The airport at Farmington NM. has a great Mexican restaurant - and
I am a
connoisseur. But be careful on the hot sauce - they make it hot there. I like
it, but I am
accustomed to it.
On to San Diego, you can see Ship Wreck Rock (used as backdrop in many TV commercials).
I would
swing north to the southern edge of the Grand Canyon. Land at Grand Canyon Airport
(high, but the
RV will do it fine).
Coming home, I would fly up the California coast, low, checking out the wonder
seascapes (sun sets
over the water here). Fly along Big Sur to land at Monterey, CA. Maybe head north
to fly over the
Golden Gate Bridge (watch out for Class Bravo Airspace).
I live at Lake Tahoe - it is a beautiful lake and worth the stop. We have two
airports - TVL and
TRK. Both are suitable, but high. TRK is the easier. I hangar at RNO.
I would try to take in Canyon Lands National Park in Utah on the way back. Again,
wonderful land
forms.
Next on up to Boise area and over to Jackson WY or West Yellowstone (closed for
winter). There are
some wonderful obsidian flows that are ONLY seen from the air. This route takes
you over Grand
Tetons park. I highly recommend Yellowstone, best seasons are early spring/late
fall when kids are
in school but no snow on ground. We love the last week in September.
Flying eastbound is pretty easy from Jackson. The land is lower and flatter, but
not without
weather.
Another stop along the way is Mt Rushmore (Rapid City). It is a bit of a drive
from the airport,
but kind of interesting.
Hope this helps. If you use any of it, I would appreciate feedback and pix on
your return.
Dan Beadle
RV8 (empennage almost done!)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
FlashandCo(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Crossing the Continental Divide
This East Coast-er and wife are planning to visit friends in San Diego sometime
in the near future.
I tried searching this List for recommended i.e. jaw-dropping scenic routings
through the Divide,
but did not see much there. Maybe my search words, I don't know.....Anybody want
to offer their
experiences? Looking for a southern route Texas to Dan Diego and maybe a return
northern CA
through Colorado. Thank you all.
Bob Gordon
RV6 @ 33N
70 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Crossing the Continental Divide |
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
While others have made suggestions, most of which involve some mountain
flying, etc. I get the impression you are looking for route you don't need
to rent oxyen pack and get a crash course (pun sorta intended) in mountain
flying. While your aircraft is very capable, you may want to get
experience gradually.
If that is what you want...you can either pickup I10 in west Texas to El
Paso and then follow it to Casa Grande, then follow I-8 to SandyEgo. Or
you can pickup I-40 in Amarillow and follow it across NM to Kingman or
thereabouts and then head south to MYF or whatever field you select.
For the return, head towards Sacramento, and pickup I-80 and follow it
home. Cautions...in the west there are a lot of restricted areas that are
frequently hot, with stuff like F-16s and similar birds doing live
practice. There are also lots of MOAs that you can fly through, but advise
you be on the controlling agency freq to know if they are hot.
Amarillo has a prohibited area just NE of town. 99% of the time you cannot
get permission through the White Sands Missle Range restricted area, and
the terrain is very mountainous anyway. If you follow those interstates
you will stay clear of military areas and can do the whole route below
10K. However, watch out for winds aloft and turbulence over the Sierras
along I-80. If the wind is blowing you need to either wait, or be willing
to go to well up into the teens to get above the mechanical turbulence,
lenticulars and rotor clouds. As for fuel stops, Airnav is your friend.
JMHO, with more than a dozen light plane trips between PHX and NJ.
FlashandCo(at)aol.com said:
>
> This East Coast-er and wife are planning to visit friends in San Diego
> sometime in the near future. I tried searching this List for recommended
> i.e. jaw-dropping scenic routings through the Divide, but did not see much
> there. Maybe my search words, I don't know.....Anybody want to offer
> their experiences? Looking for a southern route Texas to Dan Diego and
> maybe a return northern CA through Colorado. Thank you all.
>
> Bob Gordon
> RV6 @ 33N
> 70 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
ok Dana, I will have to ask. What is an A2G? What was it in? And are you
saying it will not fit in a A due to some sort of bottom obtrusion that
interferes with the nose wheel?
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker 78 hours
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Northwest Formation Clinic this June |
Interested in formation flying? Want to develop your skills by learning from the
best? We are collaborating with Stu McCurdy of FFI on a formation clinic this
June specifically for RV drivers. Details at...
http://www.romeolima.com/FormationClinic/
Randy Lervold
RV-3B, finish kit, www.rv-3.com
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold, www.rv-8.com
www.eaa105.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Route Across Country |
Yes, Durango still has the train, Durango to Silverton. Won't be running
the full route 'till May or so.
The restaraunt in Farmington is closed (darn it).
For a flat lander without mountain flying experience (airline flying,
even from the front seat, does not count), I would say fly to Las Vegas,
NM, then west from there. Or, go farther south along I-10 over El Paso,
etc. Do not fly over the higher mountains in the spring, the winds will
kick your ass. Every year we loose flat landers around here.
Good luck, John
Pagosa Springs, CO (50 miles east of Durango)
dan.beadle(at)inclinesoftworks.com wrote:
>
>There are some practicalities of oxygen, but assuming that is not a factor...
>
>I can't say much about crossing the Great Plains - lots of the same. But it is
a great place for
>some low flying and brushing up on ground reference maneuvers. We enjoy just
popping in to little
>towns and checking out the mid-west culture. Real America...
>
>I would plan to fly to Durango, CO. They have the Silver Train (or used to).
Great views crossing
>the Rockies. The airport at Farmington NM. has a great Mexican restaurant - and
I am a
>connoisseur. But be careful on the hot sauce - they make it hot there. I like
it, but I am
>accustomed to it.
>
>On to San Diego, you can see Ship Wreck Rock (used as backdrop in many TV commercials).
I would
>swing north to the southern edge of the Grand Canyon. Land at Grand Canyon Airport
(high, but the
>RV will do it fine).
>
>
>Coming home, I would fly up the California coast, low, checking out the wonder
seascapes (sun sets
>over the water here). Fly along Big Sur to land at Monterey, CA. Maybe head
north to fly over the
>Golden Gate Bridge (watch out for Class Bravo Airspace).
>
>I live at Lake Tahoe - it is a beautiful lake and worth the stop. We have two
airports - TVL and
>TRK. Both are suitable, but high. TRK is the easier. I hangar at RNO.
>
>I would try to take in Canyon Lands National Park in Utah on the way back. Again,
wonderful land
>forms.
>
>Next on up to Boise area and over to Jackson WY or West Yellowstone (closed for
winter). There are
>some wonderful obsidian flows that are ONLY seen from the air. This route takes
you over Grand
>Tetons park. I highly recommend Yellowstone, best seasons are early spring/late
fall when kids are
>in school but no snow on ground. We love the last week in September.
>
>Flying eastbound is pretty easy from Jackson. The land is lower and flatter,
but not without
>weather.
>
>Another stop along the way is Mt Rushmore (Rapid City). It is a bit of a drive
from the airport,
>but kind of interesting.
>
>
>Hope this helps. If you use any of it, I would appreciate feedback and pix on
your return.
>
>Dan Beadle
>RV8 (empennage almost done!)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>FlashandCo(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Crossing the Continental Divide
>
>
>This East Coast-er and wife are planning to visit friends in San Diego sometime
in the near future.
> I tried searching this List for recommended i.e. jaw-dropping scenic routings
through the Divide,
>but did not see much there. Maybe my search words, I don't know.....Anybody want
to offer their
>experiences? Looking for a southern route Texas to Dan Diego and maybe a return
northern CA
>through Colorado. Thank you all.
>
>Bob Gordon
>RV6 @ 33N
>70 hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 wheel landings |
Listers,
A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
his plane. What say ye.
Jim Bean
First flight soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Craftsman Compressor Help |
I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to 220V.
The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course the
manual has no wiring information.
I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some internet
searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to find a
wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from 110V to
220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any wiring
schematic for changing to 220V?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Burns" <burnsm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Craftsman Compressor Help |
Mike,
A lot of times the wiring schematic is on the back of the wiring box cover.
If not, get me the GE P/N and I can probably help you out.
Mark Burns
RV-7A Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus
Subject: RV-List: Craftsman Compressor Help
I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to 220V.
The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course the
manual has no wiring information.
I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some internet
searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to find a
wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from 110V to
220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any wiring
schematic for changing to 220V?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> |
| Subject: | trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? |
In my Empennage kit I got a "Trim Bundle" about 9 pieces 4 x 15
Are these my practice pieces ,?,, or are these used in the kit,
Thanks,
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
>
> Listers,
> A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> his plane. What say ye.
> Jim Bean
> First flight soon.
I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
The archives are full of reports from people who say that the RV-8 is
difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
tail a bit more than a FP prop.
For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
forward and aft CGs.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? |
Hi Dan,
Yeah, I was puzzled by that bundle also. I didn't touch it because I thought
"maybe it is used somewhere in the building process". I'm almost finished
with my tailkit and haven't used any of it yet.
Smitty's RV-9A
http://SmittysRV.com
http://FunPlacesToFly.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan" <dan(at)rdan.com>
Subject: RV-List: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ?
>
> In my Empennage kit I got a "Trim Bundle" about 9 pieces 4 x 15
> Are these my practice pieces ,?,, or are these used in the kit,
> Thanks,
> Dan
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chaztuna(at)adelphia.net |
| Subject: | Re: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? |
Dan
The trim bundles are usually the left over "drop" from the aluminum sheets used
to make the prefabricated parts. This material is included for you to use for
fabricated add on parts, shims, scab flanges, rivet practice,etc.
When you get to the fuselage kit there are scores of parts which must be fabricated
from stock. I can't remember if there were any "fabricated from stock" parts
to be made from the wing kit.
Charlie Kuss
---- Dan wrote:
>
> In my Empennage kit I got a "Trim Bundle" about 9 pieces 4 x 15
> Are these my practice pieces ,?,, or are these used in the kit,
> Thanks,
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chaztuna(at)adelphia.net |
| Subject: | Re: Craftsman Compressor Help |
Mike,
There should be a removable cover (usually a flat plate) which gives access to
the wiring connections in the motor. Often, the wiring schematic is on the inside
of this cover. That schematic will show the 110 to 220 conversion (if it's
there)
Charlie Kuss
---- Mike Kraus wrote:
>
>
> I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to 220V.
> The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course the
> manual has no wiring information.
>
> I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some internet
> searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to find a
> wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
> anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
>
> Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from 110V to
> 220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any wiring
> schematic for changing to 220V?
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> -Mike Kraus
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark & Lisa" <marknlisa(at)hometel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crossing the Continental Divide |
Check out this article for suggestions regarding the return trip.
http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/051201_lowery.html
Mark & Lisa Sletten
Legacy FG N828LM
http://www.legacyfgbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50 pounds
to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't hopefully lead
to the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting me should I have an
off field event.
Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean and
that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in actual solutions
than future untried theories.
thx,
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
>
> On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
>
> >
> > Listers,
> > A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> > elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> > his plane. What say ye.
> > Jim Bean
> > First flight soon.
>
> I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
> flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
> flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
>
> The archives are full of reports from people who say that the RV-8 is
> difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
> run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
> may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
> tail a bit more than a FP prop.
>
> For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> forward and aft CGs.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and50 pounds to
the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't hopefullylead tothe
ballastcrashing through from the back and hurting me should I have an off
field event.
Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean and
that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in actual solutions
than future untried theories.
thx,
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Kevin Horton khorton01(at)rogers.com
-- RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
-- RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean
Listers,
A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
his plane. What say ye.
Jim Bean
First flight soon.
I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
The archives are full of reports from pe
ople who say that the RV-8 is
difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
tail a bit more than a FP prop.
For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
forward and aft CGs.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Search Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Craftsman Compressor Help |
| From: | n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net |
I looked on the motor, under the motor, under the capacitor covers on the
motor, inside th motor, inside the cover plate, inside the plastic that
covers the motor... I looked everywhere but inside of the compressor
tank. Unfortunately there are no schematics. That is why I was hoping
someone had one with a schematic on it somewhere as I agree it should be
there somewhere. I did 3 hours of internet searches (as I was watching
the bowl games) and was surprised I could not find anything posted
anywhere on either the GE motor or on the compressor. I called Craftsman
and all they would say was for me to take it into a service center.....
GE has a web site wit compressor motor information, but no wiring diagrams.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
-Mike
>
> Mike,
> There should be a removable cover (usually a flat plate) which gives
> access to the wiring connections in the motor. Often, the wiring
> schematic is on the inside of this cover. That schematic will show the
> 110 to 220 conversion (if it's there)
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> ---- Mike Kraus wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to 220V.
>> The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course the
>> manual has no wiring information.
>>
>> I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some internet
>> searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to find a
>> wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
>> anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
>>
>> Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from 110V to
>> 220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any wiring
>> schematic for changing to 220V?
>>
>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> -Mike Kraus
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Source for aircraft hardware in the UK? |
Hi Listers,
Can anyone point me to a source in the UK for AN/MS/NAS hardware?
Thanks for the help?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Craftsman Compressor Help |
| From: | n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net |
GE Motor information is:
Part #: MD-9041-1
Serial #: SJJ200022
Model: 5KCR49SN2038CX
Craftsman Compressor Model Number: 919-15292. I have attached a
schematic, but I don't know if it will come through.
Thanks
-Mike
>
> Mike,
> A lot of times the wiring schematic is on the back of the wiring box
> cover.
>
> If not, get me the GE P/N and I can probably help you out.
>
> Mark Burns
> RV-7A Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Craftsman Compressor Help
>
>
> I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to 220V.
> The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course the
> manual has no wiring information.
>
> I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some internet
> searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to find a
> wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
> anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
>
> Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from 110V to
> 220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any wiring
> schematic for changing to 220V?
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> -Mike Kraus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A? As you
can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360 hollow
crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S or
going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
>So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
>
>For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50
>pounds to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't
>hopefully lead to the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting
>me should I have an off field event.
>
> > For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> > the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> > you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> > forward and aft CGs.
> >
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
From my non-aeronautical engineer view that would not be ideal. As Kevin
noted, near the middle CG range is likely to be safer.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed |
Dana, I am running that very engine by Aerosport with Hartzell "BLENDED
AIRFOIL" prop and have no complaints.
Doug Preston
RV-7
N731RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Craftsman Compressor Help |
I have a similar compressor - I'll look at it this weekend - I also think I still
have the documentation that came with it....If I do, I'll let you know.
From memory though the wiring has three wires - for 220 there are two lines(one
white, one black) and one ground(green), for 110 the wires go line, load (don't
remember which is line or load), and ground(green).
The house wiring determines the phase of the individual line feeds - your house
should have two line feeds to run AC/dryer etc and the 220v feed would already
be wired according to code by your electrician.
I'm guessing that you have a 110 outlet available and don't want to run 220V?!
Keep in mind that 110V will not produce the HP rating that is advertised for
the compressor (unless they're advertising under 5hp). It'll still work - just
run a little longer per duty cycle.
Been there - done that - installed a 220V feed for my compressor.
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net
>Sent: Jan 5, 2006 9:02 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Craftsman Compressor Help
>
>
>I looked on the motor, under the motor, under the capacitor covers on the
>motor, inside th motor, inside the cover plate, inside the plastic that
>covers the motor... I looked everywhere but inside of the compressor
>tank. Unfortunately there are no schematics. That is why I was hoping
>someone had one with a schematic on it somewhere as I agree it should be
>there somewhere. I did 3 hours of internet searches (as I was watching
>the bowl games) and was surprised I could not find anything posted
>anywhere on either the GE motor or on the compressor. I called Craftsman
>and all they would say was for me to take it into a service center.....
>
>GE has a web site wit compressor motor information, but no wiring diagrams.
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
>-Mike
>
>>
>> Mike,
>> There should be a removable cover (usually a flat plate) which gives
>> access to the wiring connections in the motor. Often, the wiring
>> schematic is on the inside of this cover. That schematic will show the
>> 110 to 220 conversion (if it's there)
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>>
>> ---- Mike Kraus wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to 220V.
>>> The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course the
>>> manual has no wiring information.
>>>
>>> I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some internet
>>> searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to find a
>>> wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
>>> anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from 110V to
>>> 220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any wiring
>>> schematic for changing to 220V?
>>>
>>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> -Mike Kraus
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Mather" <peter(at)mather.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for aircraft hardware in the UK? |
Dean
http://www.lightaero.co.uk/
are as good as any.
Best regards
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Source for aircraft hardware in the UK?
Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2006 09:44:52 -0500
>
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> Can anyone point me to a source in the UK for AN/MS/NAS hardware?
>
> Thanks for the help?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wskimike(at)mchsi.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
My suggestion is to bolt a little weight in the tail section to get the CG
where you need it. You can add lead weights in the tail and remove them as
necessary. You won't have to add so much gross weight. That is the way the
real world does it.
>
> So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
>
> For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50 pounds
> to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't hopefully lead
to
> the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting me should I have an off
> field event.
>
> Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean and
> that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in actual
> solutions than future untried theories.
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
>
> >
> > On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Listers,
> > > A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> > > elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> > > his plane. What say ye.
> > > Jim Bean
> > > First flight soon.
> >
> > I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
> > flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
> > flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
> >
> > The archives are full of reports from people who say that the RV-8 is
> > difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
> > run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
> > may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
> > tail a bit more than a FP prop.
> >
> > For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> > the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> > you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> > forward and aft CGs.
> >
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> > Ottawa, Canada
> > http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
>
> For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and50 pounds
to
> the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't hopefullylead tothe
> ballastcrashing through from the back and hurting me should I have an off field
> event.
>
> Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean and
> that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in actual
> solutions than future untried theories.
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Kevin Horton khorton01(at)rogers.com
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>
> On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean
>
> Listers,
> A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> his plane. What say ye.
> Jim Bean
> First flight soon.
>
> I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
> flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
> flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
>
> The archives are full of reports from pe
> ople who say that the RV-8 is
> difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
> run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
> may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
> tail a bit more than a FP prop.
>
> For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> forward and aft CGs.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
> Search Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will Couvillon" <wcouv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV9/9A Wing and Empennage kit for sale |
A cold hard reality has set in...I can't afford to finish my RV AND plan to
send my little girl to college. Those of you that have followed along in my
construction will know how much this hurts...thank you!
RV9/9A Wing and Empennage kit for sale. Empennage complete except for
fiberglass and completely inspected by EAA tech counselor. Wings 90% with
only the final assembly of the ailerons and completion of the flaps. After
that, push pull tubes and aileron bellcranks, then tips...done in maybe 40
hours. Bottom skins are off for easy access, but are drilled, dimpled,
primed and ready for riveting. All parts and skins primed with Dupont
VariPrime!
Included accessories are electric trim (tested working great), dual duckwork
landing lights installed, SafeAir1 dynon pitot mounting tube with complete
AOA and pitot/static tubing kit (bottom skin already cut and mount primed),
sealed and tested tanks with float senders, and Van's electrical conduit
with ribs precut. Of course the complete build manual and all drawings (up
to date) are included.
Incredible documentation is included with hundreds of pictures...you can see
the entire history of the contruction at my site: www.wills-rv9a.com
Current cost of the parts and accessories alone is over $7800....$7500 buys
mine and gives you a big jump in construction. This is available for local
pickup and I will include the wing crates. If this must be shipped, buyer is
to arrange for pickup and shipping. Please post reply or email me at
wcouv(at)hotmail.com
__________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Airspeed Indicator Error |
I just did a balloon test to see if my pitot system would hold pressure. It did,
but I got two different airspeed indications & I'm wondering if the UMA unit
I bought from Vans can be adjusted. The UMA said I was using a 103 kt balloon
but the Dynon D10 said I was using a 109 kt balloon. Have any of you observed
differences like these? Which was the most reliable? Anyone know of a book
full of numbers and equations that would give me the air pressure that corresponds
to 110 kt? It seems to me that a test pilot oriented book of that sort
would be pretty useful during the coming months.
Dave Reel - RV8A FAA inspection Jan 25
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Kritzman <rv8_flyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
Lucky,
I made some tabs out of .040 AL that have a 1/2" hole on one end and a #8 hole
on the other about 1" long with a 45 deg bend between the holes. I attached
these to the #8 screws that hold the baggage area in place. Then I can attach
tie down straps to them to hold everything in place. For the first few flights
I strapped 25 lbs in the back to get the CG to the mid point. Had no trouble
three pointing. But I have an O-320 so even solo with nothing in back my
CG is an inch back from the fwd limit. I have no problem with full stall three
point landings, but wheel landings are so easy in the -8 that is what I do if
there is a crowd watching.
Alan Kritzman
RV-8 N8EM
lucky wrote:
So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50 pounds
to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't hopefully lead
to the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting me should I have an
off field event.
Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean and
that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in actual solutions
than future untried theories.
thx,
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Kevin Horton
>
> On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
>
> >
> > Listers,
> > A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> > elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> > his plane. What say ye.
> > Jim Bean
> > First flight soon.
>
> I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
> flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
> flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
>
> The archives are full of reports from people who say that the RV-8 is
> difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
> run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
> may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
> tail a bit more than a FP prop.
>
> For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> forward and aft CGs.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and50 pounds to
the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't hopefullylead tothe
ballastcrashing through from the back and hurting me should I have an off
field event.
Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean and
that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in actual solutions
than future untried theories.
thx,
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Kevin Horton khorton01(at)rogers.com
-- RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
-- RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean
Listers,
A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
his plane. What say ye.
Jim Bean
First flight soon.
I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
The archives are full of reports from pe
ople who say that the RV-8 is
difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
tail a bit more than a FP prop.
For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
forward and aft CGs.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Search Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Crossing the Continental Divide |
Bob,
Good routing ideas from all those SW folks, but why not consider coming up
to the Great Northwest, see Norcal, Mt. Shasta, World HQ of Van's at KUAO, up
the world-renowned Columbia Gorge, on to Spokane, WA, cross the divide into
MT thru Mullen Pass, on to KRAP (Rapid City, I love that call sign). We've
taken this route many times, cheap gas at St. Maries, ID. (S72) ,Free courtesy
car, charming little old west town. If you fly at 9500' going E, lots of room
to spare...
Oh BTW, if you go from Billings, MT over to KRAP, you can get a good aerial
view of the Custer Battlefield, and MT. Rushmore is only a few mins from KRAP
by RV, then you can swing around the corner and visit Larry Vetterman and
watch him make pipes. He's right there someplace. Whew! That should keep you
busy... Oh, and if you go in August there's Sturgis if you're into bikes...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
From: FlashandCo(at)AOL.COM
Subject: RV-List: Crossing the Continental Divide
This East Coast-er and wife are planning to visit friends in San Diego
sometime
in the near future. I tried searching this List for recommended i.e.
jaw-dropping
scenic routings through the Divide, but did not see much there. Maybe my
search words, I don't know.....Anybody want to offer their experiences?
Looking
for a southern route Texas to Dan Diego and maybe a return northern CA
through
Colorado. Thank you all.
Bob Gordon
RV6 @ 33N
70 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed Indicator Error |
On 5 Jan 2006, at 13:15, DAVID REEL wrote:
>
> I just did a balloon test to see if my pitot system would hold
> pressure. It did, but I got two different airspeed indications &
> I'm wondering if the UMA unit I bought from Vans can be adjusted.
> The UMA said I was using a 103 kt balloon but the Dynon D10 said I
> was using a 109 kt balloon. Have any of you observed differences
> like these? Which was the most reliable? Anyone know of a book
> full of numbers and equations that would give me the air pressure
> that corresponds to 110 kt? It seems to me that a test pilot
> oriented book of that sort would be pretty useful during the coming
> months.
David,
If all you want is the formula, you can get it at:
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/instcal/instcal.htm
If you want an Excel spreadsheet I created that converts between ASI
reading and pressure in inches of water, you can get it at:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/filemgmt/visit.php?lid=3
I've got other useful flight test links at:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/phplinks/index.php?PID=1
Just for info, the results of my ASI calibrations (Dynon D-10A and
analog ASI) are at:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/article.php?story=ASI_Calibration_2
2 - 3 kt ASI instrument errors are very normal. Five kt errors are
not unusual. Plus there is some friction in the instruments, which
gives some hysteresis. I.e. the ASI number might have increased a kt
or two if there was some vibration, like you would get from your engine.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
I purchased 2 bags of 25 lb. lead shot at a gun store. They are nice to
have around when you're not giving them a ride.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky" <luckymacy(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Safely adding Ballast: WAS Re: RV-List: RV-8 wheel landings
>
> So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
>
> For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50
> pounds to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't
> hopefully lead to the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting
> me should I have an off field event.
>
> Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean
> and that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in
> actual solutions than future untried theories.
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
>
>>
>> On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > Listers,
>> > A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
>> > elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
>> > his plane. What say ye.
>> > Jim Bean
>> > First flight soon.
>>
>> I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
>> flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
>> flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
>>
>> The archives are full of reports from people who say that the RV-8 is
>> difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
>> run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
>> may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
>> tail a bit more than a FP prop.
>>
>> For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
>> the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
>> you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
>> forward and aft CGs.
>>
>> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>> Ottawa, Canada
>> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
>
> For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and50
> pounds to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't
> hopefullylead tothe ballastcrashing through from the back and hurting me
> should I have an off field event.
>
> Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean
> and that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in
> actual solutions than future untried theories.
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Kevin Horton khorton01(at)rogers.com
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>
> On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean
>
> Listers,
> A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> his plane. What say ye.
> Jim Bean
> First flight soon.
>
> I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
> flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
> flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
>
> The archives are full of reports from pe
> ople who say that the RV-8 is
> difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
> run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
> may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
> tail a bit more than a FP prop.
>
> For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> forward and aft CGs.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
> Search Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Airspeed Indicator Error |
I found this site to be excellent for my mathematically challenged head.
http://www.iflyez.com/manometer.htm
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9 N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
Subject: RV-List: Airspeed Indicator Error
I just did a balloon test to see if my pitot system would hold pressure. It
did, but I got two different airspeed indications & I'm wondering if the UMA
unit I bought from Vans can be adjusted. The UMA said I was using a 103 kt
balloon but the Dynon D10 said I was using a 109 kt balloon. Have any of
you observed differences like these? Which was the most reliable? Anyone
know of a book full of numbers and equations that would give me the air
pressure that corresponds to 110 kt? It seems to me that a test pilot
oriented book of that sort would be pretty useful during the coming months.
Dave Reel - RV8A FAA inspection Jan 25
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Safely adding Ballast: WAS Re: RV-List: RV-8 wheel landings
>
>
> I purchased 2 bags of 25 lb. lead shot at a gun store. They are nice to
> have around when you're not giving them a ride.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 235 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
I can second the bird shot idea. When I did my fly-off, I put the bags o'
birdshot into duffel bags and used the handles and straps on the duffel bags
as tie-down points to secure the load to the airplane. Also, I thought that
if I managed to break one of the shot bags, the duffels would retain the
shot, so I wouldn't have to dig 25 lbs of steel shot from all the nooks and
crannies in the fuselage.
In addition to making good ballast, you can use the shot bags as to back-up
aluminum if you're trying to stretch form it with a hammer.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? |
Dan,
Don't know which RV you're building, but I asked Van's that question on my
-8. They said (correctly as it turned out) to save one sheet of .032" to
make the R-717 shim on the rudder and R-716 rudder bottom attach strips.
The rest are for whatever.
Brett
Toledo
-8a wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
chaztuna(at)adelphia.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ?
Dan
The trim bundles are usually the left over "drop" from the aluminum sheets
used to make the prefabricated parts. This material is included for you to
use for fabricated add on parts, shims, scab flanges, rivet practice,etc.
When you get to the fuselage kit there are scores of parts which must be
fabricated from stock. I can't remember if there were any "fabricated from
stock" parts to be made from the wing kit.
Charlie Kuss
---- Dan wrote:
>
> In my Empennage kit I got a "Trim Bundle" about 9 pieces 4 x 15
> Are these my practice pieces ,?,, or are these used in the kit,
> Thanks,
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message transport security by GatewayDefender.com
7:28:55 AM ET - 1/5/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Beene" <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
| Subject: | Craftsman Compressor Help |
Mike,
I have an old sears model 106.153681 that I purchased in 1969. The
instructions that came with it state the following:
"CAUTION -- Before rewiring the motor for operation at 115 volts, the
following items must be changed or checked.
1. The motor cord and plug and the pressure switch cord must be changed to
minimum of #12 gauge wire. The plug must also be changed from 230v type to
a 115v type.
2. The supply wiring plug, and protector should be capable of handling a
minimum of 20 amps and meet all local electrical codes for this minimum.
Instructions for wiring the motor for operation at 115 volts will be found
printed on the inside of the motor terminal cover."
If you don't find the data I will check the inside of my motor cover this
weekend.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
Dear Jim
I have over 1300 hours on my RV8 and usually wheel land on hard surface and
stall land with FULL flaps on my grass airstrip. I have never noticed any
unusual landing characteristic with either full or half flap landings. My
RV8 is equipped with a Lycoming IO390 engine and an extended hub
AeroComposites propeller. My CG is in a normal range. I hope this helps
you.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bean" <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 wheel landings
>
> Listers,
> A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> his plane. What say ye.
> Jim Bean
> First flight soon.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed |
Dana,
I have both a Hartzell CS and an AeroComposites CS. The Hartzell yields 200
to 300 fpm more rate of climb, but is considerable slower in cruise. The
ACI is slightly less climb and 10 to 15 mph faster in cruise. The ACI prop
is also approx 15 lbs lighter than the Hartzell. Since I have an extended
hub set up with a NACA cowl, plenum set up, the ACI being lighter improves
the CG .and of course the speed increase is always welcome.
Average rate of climb with my IO390 engine is between 2000 and 3000 ft per
minute depending on temperature and load with the ACI prop. The only down
point with the ACI is that it costs more than the Hartzell, but I think that
it is worth the investment.
Dick Martin
RV8
N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed
>
> Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A? As
> you
> can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360 hollow
> crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S or
> going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
>
> Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <groves(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed |
Just curious Mr Martin did you have the the Hartzell on the IO-390 or just the
AC.
Thanks
Kirk
>
> From: "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
> Date: 2006/01/05 Thu PM 10:51:31 EST
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed
>
>
> Dana,
> I have both a Hartzell CS and an AeroComposites CS. The Hartzell yields 200
> to 300 fpm more rate of climb, but is considerable slower in cruise. The
> ACI is slightly less climb and 10 to 15 mph faster in cruise. The ACI prop
> is also approx 15 lbs lighter than the Hartzell. Since I have an extended
> hub set up with a NACA cowl, plenum set up, the ACI being lighter improves
> the CG .and of course the speed increase is always welcome.
> Average rate of climb with my IO390 engine is between 2000 and 3000 ft per
> minute depending on temperature and load with the ACI prop. The only down
> point with the ACI is that it costs more than the Hartzell, but I think that
> it is worth the investment.
> Dick Martin
> RV8
> N233M
> the fast one
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed
>
>
> >
> > Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A? As
> > you
> > can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360 hollow
> > crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S or
> > going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
> >
> > Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
> >
> >
> >
> > Dana Overall
> > Richmond, KY i39
> > RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> > Finish kit
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Air2air fotoz |
On 19:20:23 2006-01-05 Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
> Besides the usual suspects such as glare elimination,
> composition, light angles etc., can anyone offer some hints for
> optimizing air2air shotz with a digital camera, especially when
> shooting through a not-so-optically-perfect plexi canopy? (Sam, Dan?)
You've got the basics covered. Here's some other suggestions:
1. Find a heavy hunk of steel about the size of the base of your camera.
Drill a hole through it of appropriate size, and screw it into the tripod
mount on the bottom of your camera. Put a couple of felt protective "feet"
in between the camera and the steel to protect the camera. And be careful
to not screw the bolt into the camera too far. You may need some washers.
This will increase the weight of your camera, and with the weight it's
stability.
2. Increase your shutter speed. 1/200 or 1/250 is good for getting a nice
prop sweep, but is hard to hand-hold with a point-and-shoot camera, even
with the extra weight. 1/500 will sharpen things up a bit, and still leave
*some* prop sweep visible.
3. Tell #2 to tighten it up. You want to be shooting the camera with the
zoom somewhere in the middle of it's range. The zooms on digicams don't
really get enough light at full telephoto, so you have to open the aperture
to get more light to the sensor, which robs your depth-of-field. You may
find that what looks like camera shake is just a blurry photo because the
focus isn't exact.
4. Finally, focus. The autofocus on digicams isn't the most reliable.
There are distinct "steps" in the autofocus, and it's possible to get your
subject in between two steps. At one it's out of focus, and as it moves to
the next step it gets sharp and then goes out of focus again. Having the
largest depth-of-field you can get helps with this. Taking a dozen photos
one after the other as the planes jockey for position around one another
also helps... One good photo in 12 and you're doing as well as many pro
photographers.
Here's my last air-to-air mission, coming up on two years ago:
http://b4.no-ip.org:8080/airframe/events/20040417_CYGB/thumb3.html
All photos were taken with a Nikon Coolpix 8700, with the extra battery
pack/vertical grip (the extra weight is like having the steel lump I
suggested above). The photo ship was a Piper Tri-Pacer with the rear
passenger door removed, and me tethered to the seatbelt anchor with a
climbing harness. Great fun!
-Rob Prior
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Craftsman Compressor Help |
Are there wire numbers on the motor leads? Let me know how many leads and
the number on them. The windings are connected in series for 220 volt
operation. These are usually connected in parallel for 110 v operation, so you
should
see two leads together. If this is the case and there is no numbering on the
leads, you could ring out the two separate windings and just series them. If
it gets more complicated than this due to start windings and capacitor start
etc, take the motor to a rewind shop and they will reconnect it for you for
a minimal fee.
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew Brandes <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Care and Cleaning |
I've mounted my canopy for what I hope is the 2nd to the last time (will have to
remove for paint) and removed the protective plastic. Now I am faced with
cleaning all the dust off of it and also keeping it looking good for the next
20+ years. :-) I searched the archives and found some old 1997 posts about
canopy cleaning but I'd like to hear some more recent experiences.
What cloth types are builders using to wipe the canopy with that doesn't leave
scratches? Shami cloth? California Car Duster? Diapers?
What products are builders using to do the actual cleaning? Some old posts
indicated Pledge, Maguires #10, Windex w/ Vinegar.
What products should one absolutely avoid??
I've suggested to Ken at Van's to write up and article, so any information I get
from the group I will forward to Ken for reference.
Matthew
RV-9A N523RV
www.n523rv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning |
Absolutely avoid microfiber car polishing cloths. I could never get my canopy
free of fine scratches and swirls until I ditched these and went back to cotton
flannel rags (I get these from Wally World- yellow with red serging).
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Brandes <matthew(at)n523rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Care and Cleaning
I've mounted my canopy for what I hope is the 2nd to the last time (will have to
remove for paint) and removed the protective plastic. Now I am faced with
cleaning all the dust off of it and also keeping it looking good for the next
20+ years. :-) I searched the archives and found some old 1997 posts about
canopy cleaning but I'd like to hear some more recent experiences.
What cloth types are builders using to wipe the canopy with that doesn't leave
scratches? Shami cloth? California Car Duster? Diapers?
What products are builders using to do the actual cleaning? Some old posts
indicated Pledge, Maguires #10, Windex w/ Vinegar.
What products should one absolutely avoid??
I've suggested to Ken at Van's to write up and article, so any information I get
from the group I will forward to Ken for reference.
Matthew
RV-9A N523RV
www.n523rv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning |
> What cloth types are builders using to wipe the canopy with that doesn't
> leave
> scratches? Shami cloth? California Car Duster? Diapers?
Bare hands and water!
That's the first thing I use if my canopy is really dusty or has caked on
bugs that I accidentally left sitting for several days. I spray or drizzle
water on the canopy, then I wipe it with my clean hand. Remove any rings
from your fingers, obviously. The dust and grit comes right off on your
hand and doesn't scratch. Frequently while doing this I clean my wiping
hand so I'm not pushing clumps of crap around.
After this process, I let what's left of the water evaporate, and then I
clean the canopy normally with a micro-fiber towel and Plexus. I don't
think the cleaner is all that critical as long as you know it won't harm the
plexi, and as long as you use something like a micro-fiber or flannel cloth
that won't scratch.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Care and Cleaning |
Matthew,
I use microfiber cloth and Plexus. Wash the cloth after a few canopy
cleanings.
Stephen Soule
RV-6A N227RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matthew Brandes
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Care and Cleaning
I've mounted my canopy for what I hope is the 2nd to the last time (will
have to remove for paint) and removed the protective plastic. Now I am
faced with cleaning all the dust off of it and also keeping it looking good
for the next
20+ years. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels(at)fmtc.com> |
Just thought you would like to know. If you are not an AOPA member think about
joining. This is from AOPA
Alan
FAA MODIFIES RULE THAT WOULD HAVE HURT SAFETY
The FAA has changed a final rule that would have had a severe impact
on the ability of aircraft owners to improve their aircraft, including
safety enhancements. The agency agreed with AOPA that "the impact of
a new noise standard on already certificated aircraft could be significant."
The final rule on single-engine airplane noise notes, "The FAA agrees
with AOPA that the new standard should not apply to supplemental type
certificates." The FAA had originally proposed tightening the noise
standards for small aircraft to bring the U.S. regulations into conformity
with international rules. But the rule, as it was originally written,
would have applied to any change to an older aircraft that might affect
its "acoustic signature." "That means if you changed the propeller on
a 30-year-old aircraft, it would have had to suddenly comply with the
more stringent noise standards applied to new aircraft," said Luis Gutierrez,
AOPA director of regulatory and certification policy. "That could have
prevented aircraft owners from making safety and utility improvements to
their aircraft, and definitely hurt the small companies that offer those
improvements under the supplemental type certificate (STC) process." As
AOPA requested, the FAA said the noise rule will not apply to STCs for
aircraft certified under previous standards. For a list of STCs that
may be available for your aircraft, see AOPA's online STC database
( http://data.aopa2.org/mods/stc.cfm ).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? |
Dan, Back in late 1994 when I ordered my complete kit for my -6A (before a big
price hike in '95), the Van's shop packers must have cleaned out their scrap,
because they threw in a nicely bundled package of 2024 Al. mostly strips 35"
long with tapered sides, 9" on one end to ~3" on the other, with guages fom .016
to .040" and some .063! The bundle had a note written on it-- "from packers
in the shop, for that custom bracket, etc"--.There must have been over 60 pieces
and a considerable weight that they packed in the Finishing Kit crate! Despite
giving a lot of it away, I still have a few pieces left! This was in the
days before you guys got pre-punched skins.
Cheers!!--Henry Hore, -6A, C-GELS, sold in '05 for med. reasons--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning |
There is a soft silicon? blade (sometimes called a California Wiper) that is
great for canopies. Wet the canopy then the blade floats on a thin layer of
water while pushing the rest in front of it picking up dust, debris, etc and
floats off the canopy. Just clean the blade with a cloth (I use my fingers)
before each swipe and I have found it to be very quick and safe. Can be
found in most auto stores.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Care and Cleaning
>
>> What cloth types are builders using to wipe the canopy with that doesn't
>> leave
>> scratches? Shami cloth? California Car Duster? Diapers?
>
> Bare hands and water!
>
> That's the first thing I use if my canopy is really dusty or has caked on
> bugs that I accidentally left sitting for several days. I spray or
> drizzle
> water on the canopy, then I wipe it with my clean hand. Remove any rings
> from your fingers, obviously. The dust and grit comes right off on your
> hand and doesn't scratch. Frequently while doing this I clean my wiping
> hand so I'm not pushing clumps of crap around.
>
> After this process, I let what's left of the water evaporate, and then I
> clean the canopy normally with a micro-fiber towel and Plexus. I don't
> think the cleaner is all that critical as long as you know it won't harm
> the
> plexi, and as long as you use something like a micro-fiber or flannel
> cloth
> that won't scratch.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Craftsman Compressor Help |
| From: | Larry Mac Donald <lm4(at)juno.com> |
Mike,
I have a Model 919.15294--5 HP--25 Gal.. I also have
the instruction manual and the parts manual.
The parts manual shows an exploded view with a power
cord only and tells nothing else about voltage and wiring.
The instruction manual tell nothing of how to change the
wiring to 220 volts; even though it says it is a 110/220 volt
machine. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Larry Mac Donald
Do not achcive
> > I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to
> 220V.
> > The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course
> the
> > manual has no wiring information.
> >
> > I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some
> internet
> > searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to
> find a
> > wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
> > anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
> >
> > Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from
> 110V to
> > 220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any
> wiring
> > schematic for changing to 220V?
> >
> > Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > -Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVE MADER" <davemader(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | way to cool cylinder head temps |
having just put about 3 hrs. on my newly completed RV-6, I have a queston
about cylinder head temps. The temps are reading between 150-200. This just
doesn't seems possible. My question is what to check first. Should I
calibrate my temp guage? block off the air inlet? I'm not sure what to do
first as all my other temps are normal. Oil is 170-180, EGT's are 1200-1500.
RPM's are all normal, 2300 static, 2750 full throttle, both mags seems to
work fine, and the engine sounds good. I just don't know if I am doing any
harm by continuing to run at these indicated temps. The outside temperature
here in Sheridan Wy. has been in the 40's lately and shouldn't be a factor.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: way to cool cylinder head temps |
DAVE MADER wrote:
>
>
> having just put about 3 hrs. on my newly completed RV-6, I have a queston
> about cylinder head temps. The temps are reading between 150-200. This just
> doesn't seems possible.
Sounds about right.......if your gage is reading Celsius. Check to make
sure you have a F gage and sender, or if using a monitor, check the
setup options.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duane Hopper <duanehopper(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: way to cool cylinder head temps |
Dave,
Perhaps you're seeing temperatures in C versus F on CHT; and F for both
oil and EGT?
If you're guage is reporting on the Celsius scale for CHT in the 150-200
range, you're closing matching "normal" range in Fahrenheit, at least
from my own experience with my new RV-6A. That'd be approximately
300-390 F, which is where my CHT's are operating at the rpm's you noted
after about 15 hours of operation. And my oil and EGT numbers are right
where yours are in Fahrenheit degrees (although I'm seeing a max of
about 1350 on EGT, not 1500).
Hope this was helpful,
Duane Hopper
DAVE MADER wrote:
>
>
>having just put about 3 hrs. on my newly completed RV-6, I have a queston
>about cylinder head temps. The temps are reading between 150-200. This just
>doesn't seems possible. My question is what to check first. Should I
>calibrate my temp guage? block off the air inlet? I'm not sure what to do
>first as all my other temps are normal. Oil is 170-180, EGT's are 1200-1500.
> RPM's are all normal, 2300 static, 2750 full throttle, both mags seems to
>work fine, and the engine sounds good. I just don't know if I am doing any
>harm by continuing to run at these indicated temps. The outside temperature
>here in Sheridan Wy. has been in the 40's lately and shouldn't be a factor.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed |
>Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A?
>
Hartzell Blended Airfoil, purchase thru Van's for about $5,800. You will have
the fastest, least expensive, easiest to service and repair prop, WHAT else is
there to say.
As far as weight YOU need weight on the nose with a RV-7 and a O-360A1A. Do the
W&B.
DO your research and the answer is clear, others will tell you their opinion
but the FACTs are the Hartzell BA is significantly faster, cheaper and with the
history and level of testing and analysis Hartzell has done with the prop on
the RV airframe, using stock and modified engines it is a KNOWN. No other brand
can claim to have done the testing Hartzell has done on the RV airframe itself.
The BA was made for the RV, optimized. You will not regret it I assure you.
If you are on a budget the HC-C2YK/F7666-2 or -4 can be found used for $2,500-$4,000.
Sources are prop shops, RV'ers changing there prop for the BA. Although
slightly less top speed than the newer Hartzell BA, it still out preforms all
comers. My data comes from test Van did and published in 2004. You will excuses
and emphasis on Smoothness as a criteria to choose other brands but that
is really a personal subjective choice and find a well balanced engine/prop comb
(using a Hartzell) in is quite smooth.
Some are more are willing to pay many $1000's more and use a foreign built prop
for smoothness or a prop from a new small prop company, but that is your choice.
The Hartzell is US made and serviced. Chances are a prop shop near you is
fully certified and competent to overhaul a Hartzell from top to bottom.
George
------------------------------------------------
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed
Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A?
As you
can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360
hollow
crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S
or
going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "czechsix(at)juno.com" <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed |
Dana,
I have a blended airfoil Hartzell which, based on others' performance numbers (i.e.
Vans, Randy Lervold, etc), seemed like the best bang for the buck. But I
can't comment on performance yet myself as I'm waiting on FAA and weather to get
flying...
One piece of advice I do have: If you decide to put a Sensenich on initially with
a desire to upgrade to Hartzell later, leave a bit of extra gap between the
spinner and the cowl when you fit your cowl to the Sensenich setup. Laird Owens
made the swap a few years ago and found that the Hartzell installation reduced
the gap by 1/8-3/16". I had a Sensenich at the time so I set my gap on the
large side at 5/16". When I recently swapped it out and put a Hartzell on, sure
enough, the gap was so tight I could hardly get the cowl on and off. The plans
call for a spacer (I think it's 1/4" thick--it comes with the Hartzell prop)
plus a washer to go between the prop hub and spinner backplate. I removed the
washer and left only the 1/4" spacer. This moved the backplate forward a bit
and resulted in a tight fit, perhaps 1/8", but allows me to get the cowl on
and off and looks nice. If you were to set it up for a really tight fit with the
Sensenich and later convert to Hartzell you'd be grinding paint and fiberglass
off the front face of your cowl and I think we can all agree that would NOT
be FUN.
Happy New Year and good luck with your decision.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D in T-6A colors, ready for final inspection...
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed
Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A? As you
can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360 hollow
crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S or
going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Dana,
I have a blended airfoil Hartzell which, based on others' performance numbers (i.e.
Vans, Randy Lervold, etc), seemed like the best bang for the buck. But I
can't comment on performance yet myself as I'm waiting on FAA and weather to get
flying...
One piece of advice I do have: If you decide to put a Sensenich on initially with
a desire to upgrade to Hartzell later, leave a bit of extra gap between the
spinner and the cowl when you fit your cowl to the Sensenich setup. Laird Owens
made the swap a few years ago and found that the Hartzell installation reduced
the gap by 1/8-3/16". I had a Sensenich at the time so I set my gap on the
large side at 5/16". When I recently swapped it out and put a Hartzell on, sure
enough, the gap was so tight I could hardly get the cowl on and off. The plans
call for a spacer (I think it's 1/4" thick--it comes with the Hartzell prop)
plus a washer to go between the prop hub and spinner backplate. I removed the
washer and left only the 1/4" spacer. This moved the backplate forward a bit
and resulted in a tight fit, perhaps 1/8", but allows me to get the cowl on
and off and looks nice. If you were to set it up for a really tight fit with the
Sensenich and later convert to Hartzell you'd be grinding paint and fiberglass
off the front face of your cowl and I think we can all agree that would NOT
be FUN.
Happy New Year and good luck with your decision.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D in T-6A colors, ready for final inspection...
From: "Dana Overall" bo124rs(at)hotmail.com
Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed
-- RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" bo124rs(at)hotmail.com
Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A? As you
can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360 hollow
crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S or
going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | way to cool cylinder head temps |
Dave,
Glad to hear you found your problem...Another cue is that the probes are NOT
pipe threads, so if you tried one of the 1/8" pipe fitting taps, it should
not thread properly, indicating that you are in the wrong hole. Don't ask
how I know...You mentioned the proper hole is in the bottom center of the
cylinder--also, the proper hole is not capped or plugged.
Pat Hatch
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DAVE MADER
Subject: Re: RV-List: way to cool cylinder head temps
Guys
Found my problem today and am almost embarassed to say what it is. (I don't
think spelling it correctly would have solved it) What I did was put the
probes in the wrong spot on each cylinder. On the 0-360 there are 2,
sometimes 3 different threaded taps for various things. Probes, primer,
etc.
What I did was install the CHT sensors directly above where the intake tube
connect to the bottom of the cylinder. The probe was seeing much cooler
temps
from the fuel, air mixture coming in. The CHT probe goes in the threaded
hole
in the bottom center of each cylinder. DUH! Temps all normal now and
everything in the green. Maybe this post will help the 1 in a thousand that
didn't know this.
Dave Mader
RV-6.....3.8 hrs today
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning |
Here is what I am doing. When it is dusty, or has dirt or bugs on it I
sprinkle with a garden pressure sprayer and wet it down with just plain
water. Then use a clean old tee shirt and drag it across the glass to
remove water along with the dust and dirt particles WITHOUT applying any
pressure to the glass that might scratch it. If you need to do this a
second time, do so by rewetting and dragging. You want to get the dirt/dust
off primarily. Then when the grit if off, spray on the plexus or whatever
and work it in well using a clean cotton flannel and let it film up . After
dry, use another clean cotton flannel and remove the film. Basically, I
want to keep from rubbing any grit into the glass that will create tiny
micro scratches that cause the haze look over time. A trusted friend uses
Nu Finish car polish instead of Plexus. His results look fine also.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker 78 hours
"Please use the information and opinions I express with responsibility, and
at your own risk."
>
>
> What cloth types are builders using to wipe the canopy with that doesn't
> leave
> scratches? Shami cloth? California Car Duster? Diapers?
>
> What products are builders using to do the actual cleaning? Some old
> posts
> indicated Pledge, Maguires #10, Windex w/ Vinegar.
>
> What products should one absolutely avoid??
>
> I've suggested to Ken at Van's to write up and article, so any information
> I get
> from the group I will forward to Ken for reference.
>
>
> Matthew
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: way to cool cylinder head temps |
An older A&P once told me the best way to calibrate
CHT probes was to immerse them in almost boiling
water. When it boils, the guage should read 212
degrees. If not, adjust appropriately.
Dave
--- DAVE MADER wrote:
>
>
>
> having just put about 3 hrs. on my newly completed
> RV-6, I have a queston
> about cylinder head temps. The temps are reading
> between 150-200. This just
> doesn't seems possible. My question is what to
> check first. Should I
> calibrate my temp guage? block off the air inlet?
> I'm not sure what to do
> first as all my other temps are normal. Oil is
> 170-180, EGT's are 1200-1500.
> RPM's are all normal, 2300 static, 2750 full
> throttle, both mags seems to
> work fine, and the engine sounds good. I just don't
> know if I am doing any
> harm by continuing to run at these indicated temps.
> The outside temperature
> here in Sheridan Wy. has been in the 40's lately and
> shouldn't be a factor.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Just $16.99/mo. or less.
dsl.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:Canopy Care & Cleaning |
The MOST important thing to remember is: NEVER use anything with petroleum
ingredients. Petroleum will craze & ruin a canopy.
I use spray-on Plexus for cleaner after the water rinse-off as noted by
others.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: way to cool cylinder head temps |
In a message dated 1/6/2006 4:37:54 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
jpoint(at)mindspring.com writes:
Uh, yeah, but isn't "spell check" two words? That's what my spelchekur
says.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
do not archive
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>I see your problem. You should really have installed a gauge. Use
>spellcheck people.
Good job picking up on the obvious. Don't you wish I was giving out prizes.
)
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 771hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flyguy6a(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | ExbusII for sale |
Listers:
Exbus II Load Center for sale on eBay. Van's price $424, "Buy it now"
for $349. Brand spankin' new. Has Batt backup feature, rocker switches,
tray mount. Item #4602928704
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=4602928704&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESC%3AIT&rd=1
Do not archive. and thanks for allowing blatant commercialism.
Jack L.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Curley" <mcurley68(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale - RV6 Tail Kit |
7.50 BARRACUDA_HEADER_FP56 RBL: Blacklist bl.spamcop
[Blocked - see <http://www.spamcop.net/bl.shtml?65.54.168.200>]
I have a partially completed tail kit for an RV6 that I need to sell. It's
about 50% assembled with good documentation. $250 will take it. Located in
South-east lower Michigan. Contact me off line at
mcurley68(at)hotmail.com if interested.
Mark Curley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
List,
OK, this is weird, but here's what going on. Every once in a while (two or three
times in the first 6 hours) I get a whiff of a burning smell in the cockpit.
It's not an electrical smell or oil, but smells more like burning paper or a
paper match. The first time it happened I made a quick turn for the nearest field
but the odor left as quickly as it came. That particular day the winds were
calm and there were several bonfires in the area I'd just flown over.I figured
I'd flown through a bit of smoke and picked up the odor from the those.
The last time was just after takeoff. Same smell and short lived. Again a near
calm day but no evidence of any sort of fire near by this time.
If it matters it's a O-360-A1A, Dual Mags (Slicks) with a single heat muff. I'm
still running straight mineral oil and wonder if it smells any different when
it burns. My oil breather is set up to drip any oil on the exhaust rather than
gum up the belly of the plane. Perhaps this is the culprit. Then engine is clean
and dry with no signs of any leaks.
Anybody have any ideas?
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S
St. Charles MO
6.2 Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank goggio" <fgoggio(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Burning smell |
steve, i am running the same engine setup as you in my 6,same thing
happened to me, found that i need to put some aluminum tape inside the
cowling near the exhause pipes where they were close to the fiberglass
cowling, to reflect the heat away from the fiberglass, its gets real hot
there,after 40 hrs i have got to repait the bottom half of the cowling as
the paint has blistered before i found what was going on,after the tape
inside no more smell or problems frank goggio fayetteville nc, rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
> [Original Message]
> From: Steve Struyk <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Date: 1/7/2006 11:35:44 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Burning smell
>
> If it matters it's a O-360-A1A, Dual Mags (Slicks) with a single heat
muff. I'm still running straight mineral oil and wonder if it smells any
different when it burns. My oil breather is set up to drip any oil on the
exhaust rather than gum up the belly of the plane. Perhaps this is the
culprit. Then engine is clean and dry with no signs of any leaks.
Steve
I have the same oil breather drip system and have noticed no smell at all.
I also have sticky backed aluminum sheet lining the "hot spots" on the
inside of my cowl to protect the fiberglass from exhaust heat which does
work well. There is about 1" square that has received some heat and after
100 hrs this spot has discolored so there is heat present there. The
aluminum sheet is available from Vans and is cheap.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
Northfield, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Burning smell |
Got a wood prop??? Might aughta check that.
Linn
>>Subject: RV-List: Burning smell
>>
>>If it matters it's a O-360-A1A, Dual Mags (Slicks) with a single heat
>>
>>
>muff. I'm still running straight mineral oil and wonder if it smells any
>different when it burns. My oil breather is set up to drip any oil on the
>exhaust rather than gum up the belly of the plane. Perhaps this is the
>culprit. Then engine is clean and dry with no signs of any leaks.
>
>Steve
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Burning smell |
I am putting the foil tape in the exhaust area of the cowling too, but
under it I am painting on a ceramic insulator. See "Heat Shield" from
www.bvmjets.com. I'm not flying yet, but indications are that a few
coats of this stuff will support a temperature gradient much larger than
we get between the inside surface of our cowlings and the outside
world. I just finished painting the stuff on the inside of my
fiberglass cooling plenum.
Frank goggio wrote:
>
>steve, i am running the same engine setup as you in my 6,same thing
>happened to me, found that i need to put some aluminum tape inside the
>cowling near the exhause pipes where they were close to the fiberglass
>cowling, to reflect the heat away from the fiberglass, its gets real hot
>there,after 40 hrs i have got to repait the bottom half of the cowling as
>the paint has blistered before i found what was going on,after the tape
>inside no more smell or problems frank goggio fayetteville nc, rv6a
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
I just got some ceramic additive for paint that is supposed to do the same thing.
Supposedly it was a spin-off product from NASA and has a write-up from NASA
Ames and a bunch of testimonials. Haven't tried it yet so I can say if it
works well but I plan on doing my firewall and inside cowl with it.
http://www.hytechsales.com/
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sarg314
Subject: Re: RV-List: Burning smell
I am putting the foil tape in the exhaust area of the cowling too, but under it I am painting on a ceramic insulator. See "Heat Shield" from www.bvmjets.com. I'm not flying yet, but indications are that a few coats of this stuff will support a temperature gradient much larger than we get between the inside surface of our cowlings and the outside
world. I just finished painting the stuff on the inside of my
fiberglass cooling plenum.
Frank goggio wrote:
>
>steve, i am running the same engine setup as you in my 6,same thing
>happened to me, found that i need to put some aluminum tape inside the
>cowling near the exhause pipes where they were close to the fiberglass
>cowling, to reflect the heat away from the fiberglass, its gets real
>hot there,after 40 hrs i have got to repait the bottom half of the
>cowling as the paint has blistered before i found what was going on,after the
tape
>inside no more smell or problems frank goggio fayetteville nc, rv6a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Burning Smell |
...Anybody have any ideas?
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S
St. Charles MO
6.2 Hrs
Steve!!!
If you by chance are running a wood propeller -BE AFRAID. BE VERY AFRAID!
If you do indeed have a wood prop what you are smelling might very possibly be
the back of your propeller burning/charring from the friction against your prop
hub because of relative motion/working/fretting due to insufficient torque.
What this also means is that your prop bolts are being fatigued (due to being
bent back and forth on a micro scale with this condition) and should no longer
be trusted.
If your prop is wood then smell around the root of the prop for burnt wood smell.
Check the prop bolt torque. Remove the propeller and inspect if this is the
case. Prudence would dictate doing this stuff anyway just to be sure.
If there IS charring on the propeller crankshaft mating surface then you are
in for a new set of prop bolts at the very least and at worst mabye a whole new
prop too... but count your blessings because many experimentals have been lost
entirely due to losing wood props in flight because of the bolt fatigue in
this situation. I personally know a guy whose brother was badly burned when he
had to do a forced landing in their RV-4 due to losing the prop in flight. The
plane was totalled.
Let us know what you find.
Incidentally wood props are great if you keep a close eye on them. Always check
prop bolt torque religiously and regularly -especially after temp and humidity
changes. Consider a flywheel weight and a prop shaft extension with a larger
diameter mating surface too.
Scott
N4ZW
RV-4 -several hundred hours on wood Pacesetter 68x69
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mannan J. Thomason" <mannanj(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Burning Smell |
To all builders out there with wood props:
Check out Saber Mfg, Inc. Granbury, TX. He makes a prop extension with a 7
inch diameter prop flange which gives about 30 percent extra surface contact
area. Expecially recommended for engines over 150 hp. With proper torque,
this should help stop the possibility of charring.
http://www.geocities.com/sabermfg/
Not affiliated in any way----just a happy customer, he made an extension for
my constant-speed to help cure a cowl fit problem..
Mannan
----- Original Message -----
From: "SCOTT SPENCER" <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Burning Smell
>
>
> ...Anybody have any ideas?
>
> Steve Struyk
> RV-8, N842S
> St. Charles MO
> 6.2 Hrs
>
> Steve!!!
>
> If you by chance are running a wood propeller -BE AFRAID. BE VERY AFRAID!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Burning Smell |
List,
Thanks to all who responded to my question. For those who asked, no, it's
not a wood prop. I did line the lower cowl with sticky back foil before any
engine runs and first flight but perhaps the pipes, as they exit the cowl ,
are too close to the cowl. I'm out of town for a few days and will check it
out when I return.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "SCOTT SPENCER" <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Burning Smell
>
>
> ...Anybody have any ideas?
>
> Steve Struyk
> RV-8, N842S
> St. Charles MO
> 6.2 Hrs
>
> Steve!!!
>
> If you by chance are running a wood propeller -BE AFRAID. BE VERY AFRAID!
>
> If you do indeed have a wood prop what you are smelling might very
> possibly be the back of your propeller burning/charring from the friction
> against your prop hub because of relative motion/working/fretting due to
> insufficient torque. What this also means is that your prop bolts are
> being fatigued (due to being bent back and forth on a micro scale with
> this condition) and should no longer be trusted.
>
> If your prop is wood then smell around the root of the prop for burnt
> wood smell. Check the prop bolt torque. Remove the propeller and inspect
> if this is the case. Prudence would dictate doing this stuff anyway just
> to be sure.
>
> If there IS charring on the propeller crankshaft mating surface then you
> are in for a new set of prop bolts at the very least and at worst mabye a
> whole new prop too... but count your blessings because many experimentals
> have been lost entirely due to losing wood props in flight because of the
> bolt fatigue in this situation. I personally know a guy whose brother was
> badly burned when he had to do a forced landing in their RV-4 due to
> losing the prop in flight. The plane was totalled.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> Incidentally wood props are great if you keep a close eye on them. Always
> check prop bolt torque religiously and regularly -especially after temp
> and humidity changes. Consider a flywheel weight and a prop shaft
> extension with a larger diameter mating surface too.
>
> Scott
> N4ZW
> RV-4 -several hundred hours on wood Pacesetter 68x69
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed |
Dana,
I put approximately 300 hours on the IO360 before converting to the IO390.
The IO390 added approximately 5% in all parameters.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: <groves(at)epix.net>
Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed
>
> Just curious Mr Martin did you have the the Hartzell on the IO-390 or
> just the AC.
> Thanks
> Kirk
>>
>> From: "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
>> Date: 2006/01/05 Thu PM 10:51:31 EST
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed
>>
>>
>> Dana,
>> I have both a Hartzell CS and an AeroComposites CS. The Hartzell yields
>> 200
>> to 300 fpm more rate of climb, but is considerable slower in cruise. The
>> ACI is slightly less climb and 10 to 15 mph faster in cruise. The ACI
>> prop
>> is also approx 15 lbs lighter than the Hartzell. Since I have an
>> extended
>> hub set up with a NACA cowl, plenum set up, the ACI being lighter
>> improves
>> the CG .and of course the speed increase is always welcome.
>> Average rate of climb with my IO390 engine is between 2000 and 3000 ft
>> per
>> minute depending on temperature and load with the ACI prop. The only
>> down
>> point with the ACI is that it costs more than the Hartzell, but I think
>> that
>> it is worth the investment.
>> Dick Martin
>> RV8
>> N233M
>> the fast one
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
>> To:
>> Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A?
>> > As
>> > you
>> > can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360
>> > hollow
>> > crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S
>> > or
>> > going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
>> >
>> > Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Dana Overall
>> > Richmond, KY i39
>> > RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>> > Finish kit
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Tell me it ain't true |
RV'ers
I just received a very distressing "heads up" from a buddy in the FAA. He says
it will become an AD very soon. Can anyone provide any additional information
concerning this bulletin?
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/serviceBulletin566/customer_letter_nov_30.pdf
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 0-320 D1A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tell me it ain't true |
Rick Galati wrote:
>
> RV'ers
>
> I just received a very distressing "heads up" from a buddy in the
> FAA. He says it will become an AD very soon. Can anyone provide any
> additional information concerning this bulletin?
>
> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/serviceBulletin566/customer_letter_nov_30.pdf
More info here:
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/serviceBulletin566/SB566S-1.pdf
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tell me it ain't true |
| From: | "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
I can't get to the website here at work, we're blocked out. What is the
gist of the thing?
Smitty's RV-9A
http://SmittysRV.com
>
> Rick Galati wrote:
>>
>> RV'ers
>>
>> I just received a very distressing "heads up" from a buddy in the
>> FAA. He says it will become an AD very soon. Can anyone provide any
>> additional information concerning this bulletin?
>>
>> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/serviceBulletin566/customer_letter_nov_30.pdf
>
>
> More info here:
>
> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/serviceBulletin566/SB566S-1.pdf
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ? |
| From: | "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Does the extra 7 CID per cylinder yield 5% improvement in total ??? Or
is it more likely a new engine (proper compression and all that)is
responsible for the performance increase......
Is the I/O 390 an angle valve engine ? Was the 360 a parallel of angle
valve engine ??
.......................................................................
................
Dana,
I put approximately 300 hours on the IO360 before converting to the
IO390.
The IO390 added approximately 5% in all parameters.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: <groves(at)epix.net>
Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com> |
Hey fellow RV'ers,
I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have been flying for 4 years
without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or so, I have been experiencing
a problem with my engine losing power/dying when I pull power back for landing
and then try to re-apply power. I have replaced the carb with a known
good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned spark plugs, check hoses and bolts
for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at 8-10 psi with booster pump running.
I am at wits end trying to figure this one out. I have played with the mixture
and carb heat. Nothing seams to correct this recently developed problem.
Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so what was the problem/fix?
All inputs appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Jimmy Ayres
RV6A flying, building an RV7A
Hey fellow RV'ers,
I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have been
flying for 4 years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or
so, I have been experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying when I
pull power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have
replaced the carb with a known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned spark
plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
seams to correct this recently developed problem.
Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so what
was the problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Jimmy Ayres
RV6A flying, building an RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
Hi Jimmy,
The O-360 in my RV-6A needed to have the intake hose couplings replaced on
the intake tubes near the oil sump.
I also found I had a loose intake tube in the oil sump on number 3 cylinder.
Another source of an induction air leak. The number 3 cylinder was peaking
much earlier than the other 3 cylinders.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 01/09/2006 8:39:39 AM Pacific Standard Time,
JAYRES(at)entergy.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "AYRES, JIMMY L"
Hey fellow RV'ers,
I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have been flying for 4
years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or so, I have been
experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying when I pull power back
for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have replaced the carb with a
known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned spark plugs, check hoses and
bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at 8-10 psi with booster
pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure this one out. I have played
with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing seams to correct this recently
developed problem.
Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so what was the
problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Jimmy Ayres
RV6A flying, building an RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
I experienced something similar flying a rental plane with an
IO-240 - took the FBO months to figure it out - in the end
turned out to be a cracked exhaust manifold - or so I was told.
The engine didn't actually quit but it coughed and shuddered in
a very scarey way when re-applying power on the go-around.
Something to check maybe ...
g
>
>
> Hey fellow RV'ers,
>
>
>
> I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have been
> flying for 4 years without so much as a stumble. Over the past
> month or so, I have been experiencing a problem with my engine
> losing power/dying when I pull power back for landing and then
> try to re-apply power. I have replaced the carb with a known
> good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned spark plugs, check
> hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
> 8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to
> figure this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb
> heat. Nothing seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>
>
>
> Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so what was
> the problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> Jimmy Ayres
>
> RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hey fellow RV'ers,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine
> that I have been
> flying for 4 years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or
> so, I have been experiencing a problem with my engine losing
> power/dying when I
> pull power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have
> replaced the carb with a known good one, replaced the air
> filter, cleaned spark
> plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
> 8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
> this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
> seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Has anyone out there ever experienced this?
> And if so what
> was the problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Jimmy Ayres
>
>
>
>
>
> RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Heat shield was Burning smell |
We've used the same stuff, but found it comes loose with just the sticky
stuff on. So we glued the edges with red RTV, no more problems.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
RV6a/Lyco 180/CS
Steve
I have the same oil breather drip system and have noticed no smell at all.
I also have sticky backed aluminum sheet lining the "hot spots" on the
inside of my cowl to protect the fiberglass from exhaust heat which does
work well. There is about 1" square that has received some heat and after
100 hrs this spot has discolored so there is heat present there. The
aluminum sheet is available from Vans and is cheap.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
Northfield, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tell me it ain't true |
>
>Rick Galati wrote:
> >
> > RV'ers
> >
> > I just received a very distressing "heads up" from a buddy in the
> > FAA. He says it will become an AD very soon. Can anyone provide any
> > additional information concerning this bulletin?
> >
> >
> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/serviceBulletin566/customer_letter_nov_30.pdf
>
>
>More info here:
>
>http://www.lycoming.textron.com/serviceBulletin566/SB566S-1.pdf
>
>Sam Buchanan
The Gist of the SB: it has been a mandatory SB since last summer, the FAA
is about to make it an Airworthiness Directive. It involves Lycoming 360
thru 540 counterweighted engines, mostly Fuel Injected engines. Get the SB
and check if you engine is affected. As I read the SB, Lycoming is paying
for the replacement and shipping.
FYI, O360 A1A, A1D are not affected.
For those who want to get mad as (fill in the blank), I did that last
summer. How can a manufacturer charge so much for a product that is
defective? I guess as long as they are paying, it is not as bad as if the
owner had to pay for the replacement.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tell me it ain't true |
At 11:55 AM 1/9/2006 Monday, you wrote:
>> >
>> > RV'ers
>> >
>> > I just received a very distressing "heads up" from a buddy in the
>> > FAA. He says it will become an AD very soon. Can anyone provide any
>> > additional information concerning this bulletin?
>> >
>
>
>For those who want to get mad as (fill in the blank), I did that last
>summer. How can a manufacturer charge so much for a product that is
>defective?
>
>Bob
>RV6 NightFighter
Yeah, but Bob, with that logic, you should never have to repair a Ferrari or a
Lamborghini... Yeah, right... :-)
Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Housing Question... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
I just decided I wanted to go to Oshkosh this year (24th-28th). However, every
hotel is booked. Every hotel within 20 miles is also booked.
Does anyone have any advice for me? I do not want to rent a car (dont know if I
even could since the hotel operators told me those were
also booked). Do you really have to plan for this over a year in advance in order
to go? (and be within shuttle distance so you dont have to
rent a car)
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "oliver h washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Housing Question...(not processed: message from valid |
local sender)
Check the dorm. They usually have something this early, andyes motels are
tough as most people sign up for the next year when they check out.
Ollie
> [Original Message]
> From: Matt Johnson <matt(at)n559rv.com>
> To: ;
> Date: 1/9/2006 2:56:38 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question...(not processed: message from
valid local sender)
>
>
> I just decided I wanted to go to Oshkosh this year (24th-28th). However,
every hotel is booked. Every hotel within 20 miles is also booked.
> Does anyone have any advice for me? I do not want to rent a car (dont
know if I even could since the hotel operators told me those were
> also booked). Do you really have to plan for this over a year in advance
in order to go? (and be within shuttle distance so you dont have to
> rent a car)
>
> - Matt
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Grab a tent!
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Johnson
Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
I just decided I wanted to go to Oshkosh this year (24th-28th). However,
every hotel is booked. Every hotel within 20 miles is also booked.
Does anyone have any advice for me? I do not want to rent a car (dont
know if I even could since the hotel operators told me those were
also booked). Do you really have to plan for this over a year in advance
in order to go? (and be within shuttle distance so you dont have to
rent a car)
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Tell me it ain't true |
> >For those who want to get mad as (fill in the blank), I did that last
> >summer. How can a manufacturer charge so much for a product that is
> >defective?
>
> Yeah, but Bob, with that logic, you should never have to repair a Ferrari or
> a Lamborghini... Yeah, right... :-)
Good one.
But, at the same time, it's not really a fair comparison. You don't
necessarily expect reliability from a Ferrari or Lamborghini, you're more
interested in the exotic-ness or uniqueness of the product. Contrarily, with a
Lycoming, reliability is one of the princpal justifications for the cost.
But I was pleased to see that Lycoming is picking up the cost (or some of it,
anyway).
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
Twice I decided to go to OSH at the last minute and had a rental car and hotel.
Might not be the nicest room butt.....I found a room a few years ago in Appleton.
Car rental I got right at OSH it was not a problem. Just get on the phone
and start calling.
Here is a little info. The way I understand it ALL hotel rooms in Oshkosh are
booked by the city and then rented back out through the hotel at higher rates.
So start looking for a room out side of Oshkosh county. If you dont mind driving
30 minutes I am sure you can find a room.
Matt Johnson wrote:
I just decided I wanted to go to Oshkosh this year (24th-28th). However, every
hotel is booked. Every hotel within 20 miles is also booked.
Does anyone have any advice for me? I do not want to rent a car (dont know if I
even could since the hotel operators told me those were
also booked). Do you really have to plan for this over a year in advance in order
to go? (and be within shuttle distance so you dont have to
rent a car)
- Matt
Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
cell 858-395-5094
---------------------------------
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
Last year was my first year going to OSH. We stayed in Green Bay. It was
about a 50 minute drive (If I remember right), and we had a nice clean room
to stay in. We would get to OSH early enough to get "decent" parking and
we'd still be completely worn out at the end of the day. I will definitely
go the camping route when I get my RV-10 built but until then I'll probably
continue to stay out of town. It's not that big of a deal.
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators, trim tabs
----- Original Message -----
From: "scott bilinski" <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
>
> Twice I decided to go to OSH at the last minute and had a rental car and
> hotel. Might not be the nicest room butt.....I found a room a few years
> ago in Appleton. Car rental I got right at OSH it was not a problem. Just
> get on the phone and start calling.
>
> Here is a little info. The way I understand it ALL hotel rooms in Oshkosh
> are booked by the city and then rented back out through the hotel at
> higher rates. So start looking for a room out side of Oshkosh county. If
> you dont mind driving 30 minutes I am sure you can find a room.
>
> Matt Johnson wrote:
>
> I just decided I wanted to go to Oshkosh this year (24th-28th). However,
> every hotel is booked. Every hotel within 20 miles is also booked.
> Does anyone have any advice for me? I do not want to rent a car (dont know
> if I even could since the hotel operators told me those were
> also booked). Do you really have to plan for this over a year in advance
> in order to go? (and be within shuttle distance so you dont have to
> rent a car)
>
> - Matt
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> RV-8a
> cell 858-395-5094
>
> ---------------------------------
> Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays,
> whatever.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed Indicator Error |
Dave,
You might be able to get something useful by searching the archives on "new
asi calibration". See Kevin Horton's article where he lists the airspeed in
knots and MPH for a number of water column differentials. A differential of
just 31 inches of water represents an airspeed of 250 MPH, so a few yards of
plastic tubing along with a yard stick plus whatever is required to
interface to your pitot tube, is all you need.
I built the test device but at the time, my system leaked down too fast to
get perfect results - as I was working solo.
I think Kevin got his numbers from a MIL specification.
Tom Barnes -6 N442TB
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Airspeed Indicator Error
>
> I just did a balloon test to see if my pitot system would hold pressure.
It did, but I got two different airspeed indications & I'm wondering if the
UMA unit I bought from Vans can be adjusted. The UMA said I was using a 103
kt balloon but the Dynon D10 said I was using a 109 kt balloon. Have any of
you observed differences like these? Which was the most reliable? Anyone
know of a book full of numbers and equations that would give me the air
pressure that corresponds to 110 kt? It seems to me that a test pilot
oriented book of that sort would be pretty useful during the coming months.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A FAA inspection Jan 25
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
Try to find an intake leak. Check compression and timing to eliminate all
the easy items that would cause trouble. Has your exhaust gas temp gone up?
Has your fuel burn increased? Does it miss at idle or any other RPM? Give us
more to go on.
Mike Harris
----- Original Message -----
From: "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine problems
>
> Hey fellow RV'ers,
>
>
> I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have been flying for 4
> years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or so, I have
> been experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying when I pull
> power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have replaced
> the carb with a known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned spark
> plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
> 8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
> this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
> seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>
>
> Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so what was the
> problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> Jimmy Ayres
>
> RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>
>
>
>
>
> Hey fellow RV'ers,
>
>
>
>
>
> I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have
> been
> flying for 4 years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or
> so, I have been experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying
> when I
> pull power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have
> replaced the carb with a known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned
> spark
> plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
> 8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
> this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
> seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>
>
>
>
>
> Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so
> what
> was the problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
>
>
> Jimmy Ayres
>
>
> RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com> |
Mike,
Thanks for your input. I will give you as much info as I can.
1. I haven't put a gauge on it, but compression seems normal on all
cylinders when pulling prop through.
2. Don't have EGT gauge.
3. Have not noticed any change in fuel burn.
4. Does not miss at idle when cold, however, after the problem develops, it
is hard to start and runs rough at all power settings including idle.
This past weekend after once around the patch, the engine starting showing
the problem again. So I took it up to around 5000 msl and repeated running
at full power, pulling back to idle, and then re-applying power at different
mixture settings and with/without carb heat. The engine consistently lost
power completely (to the point of almost dying) and then gradually came back
to full power. It really didn't like the carb heat and seemed to be worse
with the leaner settings, but still did the same thing at full rich although
to a lesser degree.
I have pulled the spark plugs and cleaned them, although I did not find any
of them dirty or fouled.
I replaced the carb, air filter, checked all intake tube clamps for
tightness. Checked fuel inlet screen for cleanliness.
If you (or anyone) has more questions, please let me know. I have got to
get this problem corrected.
Thanks again, Jimmy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of wskimike
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine problems
Try to find an intake leak. Check compression and timing to eliminate all
the easy items that would cause trouble. Has your exhaust gas temp gone up?
Has your fuel burn increased? Does it miss at idle or any other RPM? Give us
more to go on.
Mike Harris
----- Original Message -----
From: "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine problems
>
> Hey fellow RV'ers,
>
>
> I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have been flying for 4
> years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or so, I have
> been experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying when I pull
> power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have replaced
> the carb with a known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned spark
> plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
> 8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
> this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
> seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>
>
> Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so what was the
> problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> Jimmy Ayres
>
> RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>
>
>
>
>
> Hey fellow RV'ers,
>
>
>
>
>
> I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have
> been
> flying for 4 years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or
> so, I have been experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying
> when I
> pull power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have
> replaced the carb with a known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned
> spark
> plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
> 8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
> this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
> seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>
>
>
>
>
> Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so
> what
> was the problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
>
>
> Jimmy Ayres
>
>
> RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Johnson <rv(at)discursion.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
Very difficult to diagnose trouble like this without at least an EGT
gauge. It sounds an awful lot like an induction leak to me on one or
more cylinders, especially given the list of things you've already done.
A multi-point EGT gauge would pinpoint this in a heartbeat with
increased EGT and CHTs on the affected cylinder(s).
You can sometimes pinpoint an induction leak with soapy water and a shop
vac blowing filtered air into the induction system to pressurize it.
Just spray the intake runners, intake ports, and any other connection
points with soapy water solution and look for bubbles
Dave
AYRES, JIMMY L wrote:
>
>Mike,
>
>Thanks for your input. I will give you as much info as I can.
>1. I haven't put a gauge on it, but compression seems normal on all
>cylinders when pulling prop through.
>2. Don't have EGT gauge.
>3. Have not noticed any change in fuel burn.
>4. Does not miss at idle when cold, however, after the problem develops, it
>is hard to start and runs rough at all power settings including idle.
>
>This past weekend after once around the patch, the engine starting showing
>the problem again. So I took it up to around 5000 msl and repeated running
>at full power, pulling back to idle, and then re-applying power at different
>mixture settings and with/without carb heat. The engine consistently lost
>power completely (to the point of almost dying) and then gradually came back
>to full power. It really didn't like the carb heat and seemed to be worse
>with the leaner settings, but still did the same thing at full rich although
>to a lesser degree.
>
>I have pulled the spark plugs and cleaned them, although I did not find any
>of them dirty or fouled.
>
>I replaced the carb, air filter, checked all intake tube clamps for
>tightness. Checked fuel inlet screen for cleanliness.
>
>If you (or anyone) has more questions, please let me know. I have got to
>get this problem corrected.
>
>Thanks again, Jimmy
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of wskimike
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine problems
>
>
>Try to find an intake leak. Check compression and timing to eliminate all
>the easy items that would cause trouble. Has your exhaust gas temp gone up?
>Has your fuel burn increased? Does it miss at idle or any other RPM? Give us
>
>more to go on.
>
>Mike Harris
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Engine problems
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Hey fellow RV'ers,
>>
>>
>>
>>I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have been flying for 4
>>years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or so, I have
>>been experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying when I pull
>>power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have replaced
>>the carb with a known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned spark
>>plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
>>8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
>>this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
>>seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>>
>>
>>
>>Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so what was the
>>problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>>Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>>
>>Jimmy Ayres
>>
>>RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Hey fellow RV'ers,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>been
>>flying for 4 years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or
>>so, I have been experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying
>>when I
>>pull power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have
>>replaced the carb with a known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned
>>spark
>>plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
>>8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
>>this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
>>seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so
>>what
>>was the problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Jimmy Ayres
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
Jimmy,
This statement: "seemed to be worse with the leaner settings"
would support the possibility of an intake leak. However you did suggest
you checked the intake clamps, you might want to look a little deeper in
that direction.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: AYRES, JIMMY L
Date: 01/09/06 14:54:10
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine problems
Mike,
Thanks for your input. I will give you as much info as I can.
1. I haven't put a gauge on it, but compression seems normal on all
cylinders when pulling prop through.
2. Don't have EGT gauge.
3. Have not noticed any change in fuel burn.
4. Does not miss at idle when cold, however, after the problem develops, it
is hard to start and runs rough at all power settings including idle.
This past weekend after once around the patch, the engine starting showing
the problem again. So I took it up to around 5000 msl and repeated running
at full power, pulling back to idle, and then re-applying power at different
mixture settings and with/without carb heat. The engine consistently lost
power completely (to the point of almost dying) and then gradually came back
to full power. It really didn't like the carb heat and seemed to be worse
with the leaner settings, but still did the same thing at full rich although
to a lesser degree.
I have pulled the spark plugs and cleaned them, although I did not find any
of them dirty or fouled.
I replaced the carb, air filter, checked all intake tube clamps for
tightness. Checked fuel inlet screen for cleanliness.
If you (or anyone) has more questions, please let me know. I have got to
get this problem corrected.
Thanks again, Jimmy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of wskimike
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine problems
Try to find an intake leak. Check compression and timing to eliminate all
the easy items that would cause trouble. Has your exhaust gas temp gone up?
Has your fuel burn increased? Does it miss at idle or any other RPM? Give us
more to go on.
Mike Harris
----- Original Message -----
From: "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com>
Subject: RV-List: Engine problems
>
> Hey fellow RV'ers,
>
>
> I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have been flying for 4
> years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or so, I have
> been experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying when I pull
> power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have replaced
> the carb with a known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned spark
> plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
> 8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
> this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
> seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>
>
> Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so what was the
> problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> Jimmy Ayres
>
> RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>
>
>
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>Hey fellow RV'ers,
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have
> been
> flying for 4 years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or
> so, I have been experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying
> when I
> pull power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have
> replaced the carb with a known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned
> spark
> plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
> 8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
> this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
> seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so
> what
> was the problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>Thanks in advance.
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>Jimmy Ayres
>
>
> font-family:Arial'>RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
Green Bay is an easy commute from OSH, and you can probably still get a room
there. Honestly, having been to OSH 3 times now, twice tenting on-site, and
this past year in Green Bay, the Green Bay experience was by far the best.
We found it nice to get away from OSH in the evenings. The GB airport was
very nice, and FAR less congested than OSH. There was a shuttle from our
hotel in GB, although we chose to rent a car. Have fun.
tony marshall
rv6
polson, mt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message from
valid local sender)
>
> I just decided I wanted to go to Oshkosh this year (24th-28th). However,
> every hotel is booked. Every hotel within 20 miles is also booked.
> Does anyone have any advice for me? I do not want to rent a car (dont know
> if I even could since the hotel operators told me those were
> also booked). Do you really have to plan for this over a year in advance
> in order to go? (and be within shuttle distance so you dont have to
> rent a car)
>
> - Matt
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
Disconnect the fuel line from the carb, put it in an accurate gallon
measuring jug, turn the aux fuel pump on for exactly one minute, measure the
output, and multiply by 60 to get your gph. You should have at LEAST 25 gph.
This will ensure that you're getting enough fuel, good idea to eliminate
that variable too.
Randy Lervold
rv-3.com
EAA Technical Counselor
----- Original Message -----
From: "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine problems
>
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for your input. I will give you as much info as I can.
> 1. I haven't put a gauge on it, but compression seems normal on all
> cylinders when pulling prop through.
> 2. Don't have EGT gauge.
> 3. Have not noticed any change in fuel burn.
> 4. Does not miss at idle when cold, however, after the problem develops,
> it
> is hard to start and runs rough at all power settings including idle.
>
> This past weekend after once around the patch, the engine starting showing
> the problem again. So I took it up to around 5000 msl and repeated
> running
> at full power, pulling back to idle, and then re-applying power at
> different
> mixture settings and with/without carb heat. The engine consistently lost
> power completely (to the point of almost dying) and then gradually came
> back
> to full power. It really didn't like the carb heat and seemed to be worse
> with the leaner settings, but still did the same thing at full rich
> although
> to a lesser degree.
>
> I have pulled the spark plugs and cleaned them, although I did not find
> any
> of them dirty or fouled.
>
> I replaced the carb, air filter, checked all intake tube clamps for
> tightness. Checked fuel inlet screen for cleanliness.
>
> If you (or anyone) has more questions, please let me know. I have got to
> get this problem corrected.
>
> Thanks again, Jimmy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of wskimike
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine problems
>
>
> Try to find an intake leak. Check compression and timing to eliminate all
> the easy items that would cause trouble. Has your exhaust gas temp gone
> up?
> Has your fuel burn increased? Does it miss at idle or any other RPM? Give
> us
>
> more to go on.
>
> Mike Harris
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Engine problems
>
>
>>
>> Hey fellow RV'ers,
>>
>>
>>
>> I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have been flying for 4
>> years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or so, I have
>> been experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying when I pull
>> power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have replaced
>> the carb with a known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned spark
>> plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
>> 8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
>> this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
>> seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so what was the
>> problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jimmy Ayres
>>
>> RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Hey fellow RV'ers,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I
>> have
>
>> been
>> flying for 4 years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or
>> so, I have been experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying
>> when I
>> pull power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have
>> replaced the carb with a known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned
>> spark
>> plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
>> 8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
>> this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
>> seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so
>> what
>> was the problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Jimmy Ayres
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Johnson <rv(at)discursion.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
Jim,
One more thing- there is a good reference to a useful trick for finding
induction and exhaust system leaks here: http://www.bvila.net/page33.html
Ten bucks says it's an induction leak, and that even a good visual
inspection and clamp tightening will probably turn up the culprit.
Dave
AYRES, JIMMY L wrote:
>
>Mike,
>
>Thanks for your input. I will give you as much info as I can.
>1. I haven't put a gauge on it, but compression seems normal on all
>cylinders when pulling prop through.
>2. Don't have EGT gauge.
>3. Have not noticed any change in fuel burn.
>4. Does not miss at idle when cold, however, after the problem develops, it
>is hard to start and runs rough at all power settings including idle.
>
>This past weekend after once around the patch, the engine starting showing
>the problem again. So I took it up to around 5000 msl and repeated running
>at full power, pulling back to idle, and then re-applying power at different
>mixture settings and with/without carb heat. The engine consistently lost
>power completely (to the point of almost dying) and then gradually came back
>to full power. It really didn't like the carb heat and seemed to be worse
>with the leaner settings, but still did the same thing at full rich although
>to a lesser degree.
>
>I have pulled the spark plugs and cleaned them, although I did not find any
>of them dirty or fouled.
>
>I replaced the carb, air filter, checked all intake tube clamps for
>tightness. Checked fuel inlet screen for cleanliness.
>
>If you (or anyone) has more questions, please let me know. I have got to
>get this problem corrected.
>
>Thanks again, Jimmy
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of wskimike
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine problems
>
>
>Try to find an intake leak. Check compression and timing to eliminate all
>the easy items that would cause trouble. Has your exhaust gas temp gone up?
>Has your fuel burn increased? Does it miss at idle or any other RPM? Give us
>
>more to go on.
>
>Mike Harris
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Engine problems
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Hey fellow RV'ers,
>>
>>
>>
>>I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have been flying for 4
>>years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or so, I have
>>been experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying when I pull
>>power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have replaced
>>the carb with a known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned spark
>>plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
>>8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
>>this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
>>seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>>
>>
>>
>>Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so what was the
>>problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>>Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>>
>>Jimmy Ayres
>>
>>RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Hey fellow RV'ers,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I have
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>been
>>flying for 4 years without so much as a stumble. Over the past month or
>>so, I have been experiencing a problem with my engine losing power/dying
>>when I
>>pull power back for landing and then try to re-apply power. I have
>>replaced the carb with a known good one, replaced the air filter, cleaned
>>spark
>>plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel pressure stays solid at
>>8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits end trying to figure
>>this one out. I have played with the mixture and carb heat. Nothing
>>seams to correct this recently developed problem.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if so
>>what
>>was the problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Jimmy Ayres
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>RV6A flying, building an RV7A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
Jimmy,
Pardon me if I missed any discussion about ignition. How does it behave
with one or the other mag (or whatever you have) shut down? Ignition
timing, has that been checked? Any chance for moisture anywhere in the high
voltage side of things (it can do very strange things)?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 704 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Walrath" <der_Jagdflieger(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
University of Wisconsin Oshkosh dorms should be available with bus
shuttles.
Ripon College (25 miles) is another good alternative (cheaper) but car
required.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
I just decided I wanted to go to Oshkosh this year (24th-28th).
However, every hotel is booked. Every hotel within 20 miles is also
booked.
Does anyone have any advice for me? I do not want to rent a car (dont
know if I even could since the hotel operators told me those were
also booked). Do you really have to plan for this over a year in
advance in order to go? (and be within shuttle distance so you dont
have to
rent a car)
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
Jimmy, Don't assume that the correct fuel pressure means you have the correct fuel
flow. Test the flow at the input to the carb. If the flow is correct, you
can easily find induction leaks with a can of starting fluid. I remove the cowling,
start the engine and let it idle. Spray starting fluid around the connections
at the sump and at the heads and listen for an rpm increase. If you have
a leak, I guarantee you'll find it!!! Just make sure you stay away from the prop.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message from |
valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
On 01/09 5:55, Matt Johnson wrote:
> That would be nice but I have to fly commercially to get there so I would not
be able to bring camping gear. I live in Central California.
Each time I fly in commercially I fly into Chicago direct
from LAX. Rent a car with at O'hare, get a cheap one. The
drive from Chicago to OSH is a nice one. I bring my backpack with
clothes for 3-4 days, shorts, socks, shoes, misc and buy what I
need at Walmart or the show; t-shirts. I bring a tent in my
backpack. Buy a cheapo cooler and a decent folding chair from
Walmart and ice and beer and snacks. Take the car each night
and have a good meal. Eat lunch and b-fast at the show.
Leave/donate the stuff you don't want to take back with you
(cooler, chairs).
The only real expense is the show and car. If you can meet
your buddies in Chicago you can split the car. Works well
every time (twice). Also having a car allows you to stash
valuables that might get stolen (not by pilots though).
This is the year for nuking the commercial stuff for me :)
See you there.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> valid l... (not processed: |
message from valid local sender)
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message from |
valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
Baloney! I have camped at OSH when I flew commercial. Once by myself
and once with the whole family (my wife and I and two adult sons). Just
get a big duffel bag and fill it with your tent, sleeping bag,
collapsible chair and clothes. I even have a collapsible cooler that I
bring.
Dick Tasker
Matt Johnson wrote:
>
>That would be nice but I have to fly commercially to get there so I would not
be able to bring camping gear. I live in Central California.
>
>- Matt
>
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
Sound like there is a leak in the intake system. When
the carb is closed, the needle goes leaner due to the
high vacuum. Add air from a leak, engine goes
severely lean.
--- "AYRES, JIMMY L" wrote:
>
>
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for your input. I will give you as much info
> as I can.
> 1. I haven't put a gauge on it, but compression
> seems normal on all
> cylinders when pulling prop through.
> 2. Don't have EGT gauge.
> 3. Have not noticed any change in fuel burn.
> 4. Does not miss at idle when cold, however, after
> the problem develops, it
> is hard to start and runs rough at all power
> settings including idle.
>
> This past weekend after once around the patch, the
> engine starting showing
> the problem again. So I took it up to around 5000
> msl and repeated running
> at full power, pulling back to idle, and then
> re-applying power at different
> mixture settings and with/without carb heat. The
> engine consistently lost
> power completely (to the point of almost dying) and
> then gradually came back
> to full power. It really didn't like the carb heat
> and seemed to be worse
> with the leaner settings, but still did the same
> thing at full rich although
> to a lesser degree.
>
> I have pulled the spark plugs and cleaned them,
> although I did not find any
> of them dirty or fouled.
>
> I replaced the carb, air filter, checked all intake
> tube clamps for
> tightness. Checked fuel inlet screen for
> cleanliness.
>
> If you (or anyone) has more questions, please let me
> know. I have got to
> get this problem corrected.
>
> Thanks again, Jimmy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of wskimike
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine problems
>
>
>
> Try to find an intake leak. Check compression and
> timing to eliminate all
> the easy items that would cause trouble. Has your
> exhaust gas temp gone up?
> Has your fuel burn increased? Does it miss at idle
> or any other RPM? Give us
>
> more to go on.
>
> Mike Harris
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Engine problems
>
>
>
> >
> > Hey fellow RV'ers,
> >
> >
> >
> > I have an RV6A with a stock O320 A2D engine that I
> have been flying for 4
> > years without so much as a stumble. Over the past
> month or so, I have
> > been experiencing a problem with my engine losing
> power/dying when I pull
> > power back for landing and then try to re-apply
> power. I have replaced
> > the carb with a known good one, replaced the air
> filter, cleaned spark
> > plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel
> pressure stays solid at
> > 8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits
> end trying to figure
> > this one out. I have played with the mixture and
> carb heat. Nothing
> > seams to correct this recently developed problem.
> >
> >
> >
> > Has anyone out there ever experienced this? And if
> so what was the
> > problem/fix? All inputs appreciated.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> >
> >
> > Jimmy Ayres
> >
> > RV6A flying, building an RV7A
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hey fellow RV'ers,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I have an RV6A with a stock
> O320 A2D engine that I have
>
> > been
> > flying for 4 years without so much as a stumble.
> Over the past month or
> > so, I have been experiencing a problem with my
> engine losing power/dying
> > when I
> > pull power back for landing and then try to
> re-apply power. I have
> > replaced the carb with a known good one, replaced
> the air filter, cleaned
> > spark
> > plugs, check hoses and bolts for tightness. Fuel
> pressure stays solid at
> > 8-10 psi with booster pump running. I am at wits
> end trying to figure
> > this one out. I have played with the mixture and
> carb heat. Nothing
> > seams to correct this recently developed problem.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
=== message truncated ==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message |
from valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
Matt: I've got an extra tent and I always get an extra camping spot for the
Rv7 Barbecue.You're certainly welcome to occupy it during your stay.
I also have a two bedroom tent and I doubt I'll have anyone going with me
this year.
Bob Collins
St. Paul, MN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | All New BBS Interface For Matronics List Forums! |
Dear Listers,
I'm very proud to announce a completely new BBS interface is now available for
all of the Email Lists at Matronics! This is a full-featured system that allows
for viewing, posting, attachments, polls - the works.
But the best part is that it is *completely* integrated with all of the existing
email tools currently available at Matronics! What this means at the most basic
level is that, if you post a message to List from Email in the traditional
way, it will show up on the BBS system *and* get distributed to everyone currently
subscribed to the Email List. By the same token, if you are on the BBS
and post a message to a given List-Forum, the message will not only show up on
the BBS, but also be distributed to everyone on the Email List!!
It is really a very nice implementation and I am very pleased with its operation.
All of the tools you have come to know and love such as the List Search Engine
and List Browse and Download will still be available and contain all of the
latest posts. Think of the new BBS interface as just another method of accessing
the all of the Lists.
You can use the BBS to view all of the latest posts without having to do anything
except use your browser to surf over to the site. You can view and look at
all of the various List's posts. If you want to post a new message or reply
to an existing message from the BBS, you will have to Register on the BBS. This
is a *very* simple process and will only take a couple of minutes. There is
a small icon in the upper righthand side of the main BBS page labeled "Register"
to get you started.
I strongly recommend that you use the exact *same* email address you are subscribed
to the Email Lists with when registering on the BBS. Also, while not an
absolute requirement, I would really appreciate it if people would use their full
name when choosing their Username on the BBS (for example "Matt Dralle").
This just makes it easier for everyone to know who's posting. Also, I have enabled
the ability to upload a small user picture with your profile called an
"avatar". Please use a *real* picture of yourself *with* your cloths on! Thank
you! Maximum size of the bitmap is 120x120.
You can either be subscribed to the BBS, or any number of Email Lists, or both.
Registering on the BBS will allow you to email directly to all of the various
Lists. However, to receive direct List Email, you will need to be *subscribed*
to the various Lists as you have in the past. No changes here in operation.
I have added numerous links on the BBS pointing to the Email List subscription
page.
I've had the BBS connected to the Lists for about a week now, so its already loaded
up with a fair number of messages. You can post photos and other documents
directly to the BBS and links to them will appear in the List Email distributions.
Also, when any messages posted to the BBS are viewed in the List Email
distribution, there will be a URL link at the bottom of the message pointing
back to the BBS.
And here's what you've been waiting for -- the main URL for the new Matronics Email
List BBS is:
http://forums.matronics.com
Please surf on over, Register, and have a great time! I think this will be the
dawn of a whole new era for the Lists at Matronics!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message |
from valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
Matt Johnson wrote:
>
>That would be nice but I have to fly commercially to get there so I would not
be able to bring camping gear. I live in Central California.
>
>- Matt
>
If I can bring a tent, 2 bags, clothes for me *and* my wife for a week
(complete with wife) and a soft-side cooler AND munchies in an RV-4,
without going over gross, you can fly commercially with camping gear
without paying any excess baggage penalties.
:-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message |
| From: | "rv8ch" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Matt wrote:
> I just decided I wanted to go to Oshkosh this year (24th-28th). However, every
hotel is booked. Every hotel within 20 miles is also booked.
I went to Oshkosh for the first time last year, and I stayed in the dorms. I did
it all last minute, since the flights from Switzerland were very expensive
until a week before the event. Still can't quite understand that...
Anyway, the dorms are convenient. The dining area is close, cheap, and good.
Shuttle bus leaves every 30 minutes. Community shower, so if you don't like to
see fat, naked men every morning, get up early to take your shower! :)
I even heard a rumor that some dorms will get air conditioning this year...
If I'm not flying in with my RV, I'll stay at the dorms again.
--------
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2396#2396
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message |
from valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
Good idea, but be advised that Milwaukee area RV rentals book up quickly
for that week, just like Oshkosh area hotels.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>How about flying into Ohare or Milwaukee and renting an RV, the non flying
>kind.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks Matt for the new "look". I'm sure it took considerable time and effort
to produce. I wish you great success. I'm sure many familiar names we all come
across on the various forums will sign on and post here. It is my hope that
submitters will use their real name and possibly an avatar so that we all can
better connect names and faces with content freely shared.
Best of luck,
Rick Galati
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2419#2419
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message |
from valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
Matt,
Buy a tent, sleeping bag,,cheap cooler and a few other items when you
arrive and give them to someone when you leave. About the cost of one nights
motel room.
Ollie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message
from valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
>
> That would be nice but I have to fly commercially to get there so I would
> not be able to bring camping gear. I live in Central California.
>
> - Matt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
Hi Jimmy,
This is a real long shot, except it happened to me. Try pulling the oil
screen and looking for metal.
I had a symptom like carb ice on my O-290. Slight loose of RPM, engine
running rough, and all the engine gages looked good. However, not quite what
you
are describing.
You might check the fuel screen at the inlet in the carb, also.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 01/09/2006 11:51:55 PM Pacific Standard Time,
JAYRES(at)entergy.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "AYRES, JIMMY L"
Mike,
Thanks for your input. I will give you as much info as I can.
1. I haven't put a gauge on it, but compression seems normal on all
cylinders when pulling prop through.
2. Don't have EGT gauge.
3. Have not noticed any change in fuel burn.
4. Does not miss at idle when cold, however, after the problem develops, it
is hard to start and runs rough at all power settings including idle.
This past weekend after once around the patch, the engine starting showing
the problem again. So I took it up to around 5000 msl and repeated running
at full power, pulling back to idle, and then re-applying power at different
mixture settings and with/without carb heat. The engine consistently lost
power completely (to the point of almost dying) and then gradually came back
to full power. It really didn't like the carb heat and seemed to be worse
with the leaner settings, but still did the same thing at full rich although
to a lesser degree.
I have pulled the spark plugs and cleaned them, although I did not find any
of them dirty or fouled.
I replaced the carb, air filter, checked all intake tube clamps for
tightness. Checked fuel inlet screen for cleanliness.
If you (or anyone) has more questions, please let me know. I have got to
get this problem corrected.
Thanks again, Jimmy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
DITO from Cappy.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123Sg
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2432#2432
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
No offense to Matt, but it seems like the forums load really slow. I've also noticed
that when searching the archives using the old system. Maybe it's just me.
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 06:43:45 -0800
>
>DITO from Cappy.
>
>--------
>Steve Glasgow-Cappy
>Cappy's Toy
>RV-8 N123Sg
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2432#2432
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Hummm, Ken, I did not encounter the same problem with the BBs - are you
cable connected to the net?
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: New Format
>
> No offense to Matt, but it seems like the forums load really slow. I've
> also noticed that when searching the archives using the old system. Maybe
> it's just me.
>
> Ken
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
> Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 06:43:45 -0800
>
>>
>>DITO from Cappy.
>>
>>--------
>>Steve Glasgow-Cappy
>>Cappy's Toy
>>RV-8 N123Sg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2432#2432
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Off-Topic BB Discussion (was Re: New Format) |
On 8:46:36 2006-01-10 "Ken Simmons" wrote:
> >> No offense to Matt, but it seems like the forums load really
> >> slow. I've also noticed that when searching the archives using
> >> the old system. Maybe it's just me.
It's worth noting that the new BB system is based on PHPBB, which is a
great system (I use it myself, http://flying.b4.ca) but apparently has
problems with scalability (this is based on hearsay from the 'net, not
personal experience... My user base is a lot smaller than the Matronics
lists).
It's possible that if enough people try accessing the site at the same
time, that you'll see slowdowns. This threshold may be lower for PHPBB
than for some other packages, but PHPBB does have the advantage of being
free, easy to use, and very customizable.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross S" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ? |
It may only be 7 or so cubes per cylinder, but if you look at the total
displacement difference, the 390 is 8.3% bigger. Equate this to power and
your looking at almost 17 horses. In reality, the 390 doesn't make 217
horses, it makes right at 210. Many have been run on a good dyno (BPE in
Tulsa) and they do in fact make rated power, which is more than can be said
for the 200 horse rated 360.
So, do you belive that 17 hp can add 5% or about 10 mph? You better, cause
it does. Just ask the 360 guys that get passed up.
Ross
Former RV-7 390 owner
Future RV-7 390 owner
>From: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ?
>Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 11:21:31 -0500
>
>
>Does the extra 7 CID per cylinder yield 5% improvement in total ??? Or
>is it more likely a new engine (proper compression and all that)is
>responsible for the performance increase......
>
>Is the I/O 390 an angle valve engine ? Was the 360 a parallel of angle
>valve engine ??
>.......................................................................
>................
>Dana,
>I put approximately 300 hours on the IO360 before converting to the
>IO390.
>The IO390 added approximately 5% in all parameters.
>Dick Martin
>RV8 N233M
>the fast one
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <groves(at)epix.net>
>Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Killeen Texas Hangar Space |
I'll be stationed in Killeen Texas soon, and would
like to know if anyone has a line on hangar space for
an RV-4 in the area. Please respond off list at
pbesing(at)yahoo.com
Thanks!
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? |
| From: | "algrajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
It is just a bundle of scrap for practice or spares. You will have one with each
kit. : :)
--------
just rv8in
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2560#2560
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off-Topic BB Discussion (was Re: New Format) |
| From: | "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
The BBS is running on a dual-processor, Xeon Linux system with 5Gb of RAM so everything
is memory resident. Best I can tell at this point, it should probably
handle the load pretty well. Let me know if you notice slowdowns. [Shocked]
Matt Dralle
List Admin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2571#2571
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off-Topic BB Discussion (was Re: New Format) |
| From: | "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
I'm also not noticing any slowdowns or performance issues when I'm connected out
on the internet (i.e. not locally to the system.) I suspect you might be having
an issue with your local Internet connection.
Matt
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2573#2573
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ? |
On 10-Jan-06, at 12:30 , Ross S wrote:
>
> It may only be 7 or so cubes per cylinder, but if you look at the
> total
> displacement difference, the 390 is 8.3% bigger. Equate this to
> power and
> your looking at almost 17 horses. In reality, the 390 doesn't make
> 217
> horses, it makes right at 210. Many have been run on a good dyno
> (BPE in
> Tulsa) and they do in fact make rated power, which is more than can
> be said
> for the 200 horse rated 360.
>
> So, do you belive that 17 hp can add 5% or about 10 mph? You
> better, cause
> it does. Just ask the 360 guys that get passed up.
Speed increases with the cube root of power, assuming no changes in
prop efficiency, and no changes in drag. If the speed has gone up
5%, then the power has to increase by about 16%.
If the power went up in the same proportion as the increase in
displacement, the speed should go up about 2.7%.
How many folks have changed from a stock IO-360-A series to a stock
IO-390, and made no changes to prop or anything else at the same
time? Not many I bet. So I'm not convinced we really know how much
the speed increase is. There are enough differences from one RV to
another that we can't really compare one IO-360 powered RV against
another IO-390 powered RV and say that the speed differences are due
to the engine alone.
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
RV-8 - Finishing Kit
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: RVs and the NASA PAV Challenge? |
Please reply directly to David if you have any input on this. Thanks.
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Birkenstock" <david(at)pressurethrust.com>
Subject: RVs and the NASA PAV Challenge?
> Hi Dan,
>
> You may not remember, but you flew my brother Joe Birkenstock around LA
> recently in your RV, but I digress.
>
> I'm writing to ask if you know of any RV-ers who are competing for the
> $250,000 NASA Personal Air Vehicle Challenge, do you?
>
> I plan on modifying the fuselage of something like an RV or Sonex so it
> can exploit pressure thrust and win the biggest PAV prize and I'm looking
> for the right teammates.
>
> Any help you can send would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Cheers,
> DB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rocket-List: All New BBS Interface For Matronics List |
Forums!
Hi Jim,
The purpose of the new BBS interface is not to necessarily replace the existing
email system, but rather as an adjunct to it. The email lists aren't going away
anytime soon. The BBS is just another way to "view" the content generated
by the Lists.
Simply use the viewing option that best suits your needs.
Matt Dralle
List Admin
At 09:14 AM 1/10/2006 Tuesday, you wrote:
>--> Rocket-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin"
>
>forwarded
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "RV3-List Digest Server" <rv3-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
>> --> RV3-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>>
>>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> I'm very proud to announce a completely new BBS interface is now available
>> for
>>snip
>
>I don't want to give anyone the impression this is a negative feedback - I
>just want to understand the purpose of this new BBS. How is it different
>from the List other than you don't have emails from it? It almost looks
>like the BBS would be superior to the List - no more emails and you can post
>pictures. Does this spell the demise of the list? I will watch it a while
>and decide if I can unsubscribe from the email list.
>
>Jim Anglin
>
>HR II N144HR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ? |
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ?
It may only be 7 or so cubes per cylinder, but if you look at the total
displacement difference, the 390 is 8.3% bigger. Equate this to power and
your looking at almost 17 horses. In reality, the 390 doesn't make 217
horses, it makes right at 210. Many have been run on a good dyno (BPE in
Tulsa) and they do in fact make rated power, which is more than can be said
for the 200 horse rated 360.
Ross
Former RV-7 390 owner
Future RV-7 390 owner
Ross: What propeller did/will you use?
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: All New BBS Interface For Matronics List Forums! |
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>I'm very proud to announce a completely new BBS interface is now available for
all of the Email Lists at Matronics! This is a full-featured system that allows
for viewing, posting, attachments, polls - the works.
>
>But the best part is that it is *completely* integrated with all of the existing
email tools currently available at Matronics! What this means at the most
basic level is that, if you post a message to List from Email in the traditional
way, it will show up on the BBS system *and* get distributed to everyone currently
subscribed to the Email List. By the same token, if you are on the BBS
and post a message to a given List-Forum, the message will not only show up
on the BBS, but also be distributed to everyone on the Email List!!
>
>It is really a very nice implementation and I am very pleased with its operation.
All of the tools you have come to know and love such as the List Search Engine
and List Browse and Download will still be available and contain all of
the latest posts. Think of the new BBS interface as just another method of accessing
the all of the Lists.
>
>You can use the BBS to view all of the latest posts without having to do anything
except use your browser to surf over to the site. You can view and look at
all of the various List's posts. If you want to post a new message or reply
to an existing message from the BBS, you will have to Register on the BBS. This
is a *very* simple process and will only take a couple of minutes. There
is a small icon in the upper righthand side of the main BBS page labeled "Register"
to get you started.
>
>I strongly recommend that you use the exact *same* email address you are subscribed
to the Email Lists with when registering on the BBS. Also, while not an
absolute requirement, I would really appreciate it if people would use their
full name when choosing their Username on the BBS (for example "Matt Dralle").
This just makes it easier for everyone to know who's posting. Also, I have
enabled the ability to upload a small user picture with your profile called an
"avatar". Please use a *real* picture of yourself *with* your cloths on! Thank
you! Maximum size of the bitmap is 120x120.
>
>You can either be subscribed to the BBS, or any number of Email Lists, or both.
Registering on the BBS will allow you to email directly to all of the various
Lists. However, to receive direct List Email, you will need to be *subscribed*
to the various Lists as you have in the past. No changes here in operation.
I have added numerous links on the BBS pointing to the Email List subscription
page.
>
>I've had the BBS connected to the Lists for about a week now, so its already loaded
up with a fair number of messages. You can post photos and other documents
directly to the BBS and links to them will appear in the List Email distributions.
Also, when any messages posted to the BBS are viewed in the List Email
distribution, there will be a URL link at the bottom of the message pointing
back to the BBS.
>
>And here's what you've been waiting for -- the main URL for the new Matronics
Email List BBS is:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>Please surf on over, Register, and have a great time! I think this will be the
dawn of a whole new era for the Lists at Matronics!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Matt Dralle
>
Thanks for the effort, & I know that a lot of guys prefer that type of
format, but *please* don't kill the traditional format. Some of us find
the old format much easier to use, especially when stuck with dialup.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: All New BBS Interface For Matronics List Forums! |
>Thanks for the effort, & I know that a lot of guys prefer that type of
>format, but *please* don't kill the traditional format. Some of us find
>the old format much easier to use, especially when stuck with dialup.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
Don't worry, Charlie. Email versions of the Matronics Lists are *not* going away.
The new BBS is simply another method for viewing the List content.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
Ken Simmons wrote:
>
>No offense to Matt, but it seems like the forums load really slow. I've also noticed
that when searching the archives using the old system. Maybe it's just
me.
>
>Ken
>
You are exactly right. I can read email faster using my dialup
connection than a web based application on broadband. I can also see
30-40 headers at a time instead of only a half dozen or so, & I don't
have to scroll back & forth to read stuff, & the characters are normal
sized instead of big enough to read from the next county, and.....
Just pray that he keeps the old system operational.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
| Subject: | Power loss and Oshkosh |
Matt,
Camp at OSH, show up early and become a volunteer, it will make your OSH
experience 1000 times better.
Ship stuff to EAA that you can't carry. Many do this.
Jim,
Big time sounds like induction leak, one that gets worse with heat, so crack
is expanding like a loose runner tube in the sump, or boot, or cyl end
gasket, or cracked runner tube inside the mount flange to cyl head that
opens when the cylinder gets longer.
Intake leaks are worse at idle for two reasons.
Delta P is much higher across leak at idle so leak will move more air.
Leak represents a larger portion of the total A/F mix at idle.
You might do checks when hot. Plug carb and exhaust, put #1 in valve overlap
and push in air with comp tester, use soapy water to find leak. I don't
recommend the carb cleaner trick. Prop damage to body parts and fire
potential aren't worth it.
But what hasn't been said is STOP FLYING THAT PLANE until you find the
problem and fix it. I know you wouldn't fly it if you suspected a problem
with the aileron controls, this is no different. If that sucker goes boom 14
seconds after takeoff you could be screwed.
Of all the reasons I don't like having to bury folks, flight testing a
broken airplane is on the top of the list.
As well, I'm fairly sure there's an FAA violation somewhere in that decision
making process. If not, I am certain they will be happy to make one up just
to accommodate the situtation.
Fuel flow could be the issue, but I don't know how that would change with
temperature. As long as pressure is good, and it works under one set of
conditions, it should still work under the other given equal pressures. But
it won't hurt to check flow, both warm and cold.
I doubt its ignition with two mags, and the fact that the plugs look OK and
it produces full power. The odds of them both failing in the same strange
way are fairly unlikely.
Also the fact that it produces full power OK means the engine and
compression are probably OK for now, but continued use under that kind of
leanness will do damage eventually.
Lastly, I don't want to say this one, but hopefully there are no metal
flakes in the oil. Main bearing failures do sometimes get odd when cold vs
hot, and at idle vs full power.
But again, this is very unlikely particularly with clean oil.
As usual, let us know what you find...
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Faa Sucks <faasucks33(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeromedical, which is best |
RV-List: Aeromedical, which is best
>>> From the list, you have posted: Virtual Flight Surgeons; Pilot Medical
solutions; and FAA Medical problems or Arma Research Inc., Which has been
successful if any, on fighting the FAA in getting Medical...
Appreciate comments if any of you had any luck with any of the above..is it
worth to pay the money they asked one over @1,000...for their service
what ever that means..<<<<
This is a FAA medical rant.
My experience with the FAA Medial branch is they are corrupt, dishonest and certainly
unwilling to follow there own regulations when it pleases them. Why
is it necessary for one to routinely need the assistance of APOA or EAA much less
pay a hired gun $1000 to present your case to the FAA. Why should my clinical
doctor need tutoring in the correct language to sent to the FAA, and why
should the honest evaluation and opinion of an examining physician require the
nuance to satisfy the Bring me a different colored rock mentality of the FAA.
Summary of my case:
20 years ago suffered documented mechanical damage to lungs, oxygenation at rest
not impaired.
3 years ago bypass surgery satisfactory recovery.
When unable to complete the 9 minutes required (5 min)of the Bruce protocol from
lung capacity on a hot August day at 7000 feet msl (think density altitude)
the FAA was consulted, and asked if the chemical stress test should be completed.
The FAA replied over the phone, with sufficient delay for a doctor consultation,
no the conditions would be factored in to the decision.
FAA denial, after episodes of lost records etc., and disallowance of the chemical
stress test
A subsequent stress test at 5000 msl was improved (6 min) but the 9 minutes were
not completed. The clinical physical evaluated the results were acceptable
for unlimited activity.
Another FAA denial citing the 9 minute requirement and disallowance of the chemical
stress test allowed by their own regulations.
I propose taking the 3rd class medical out of the hands of the FAA (maybe even
all classes). With a 100,000 case backlog this should be evidence enough of
the FAA incompetence, an inability to function and the lack of predictability
of illness are reasons to remove this from the FAA prevue. Privatetization,
if you will, is the answer to incompetent government.
Sincerely B
---------------------------------
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
At 04:59 PM 1/10/2006 Tuesday, you wrote:
>
>Ken Simmons wrote:
>
>>
>>No offense to Matt, but it seems like the forums load really slow. I've also
noticed that when searching the archives using the old system. Maybe it's just
me.
>>
>>Ken
>>
>
>You are exactly right. I can read email faster using my dialup
>connection than a web based application on broadband. I can also see
>30-40 headers at a time instead of only a half dozen or so, & I don't
>have to scroll back & forth to read stuff, & the characters are normal
>sized instead of big enough to read from the next county, and.....
>
>Just pray that he keeps the old system operational.
>
>Charlie
The Email Lists aren't going away. The new BBS interface is just another view
of the List content.
Regarding the font size on the BBS, make sure that your browser is set to "normal"
sized fonts.
On Internet Explorer, do this:
View->Text Size->Medium
Similar on other browsers. I think this will make the fonts look a lot more normal.
Best regards,
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Richardson" <prichar(at)mail.win.org> |
Thanks for the new format, Matt. I'm a visual person.
--------
Paul Richardson
RV-6A 106RV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2740#2740
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | AFP mixture cable length |
I spent an embarassingly long amount of time trying to figure out where
the mixture cable (for AFP) should penetrate the firewall and how long
it should be (for RV-6A with IO360). I used my heater cable control to
estimate it. I came up with a length of about 45" or 45.5" . I notice
that Van's mixture cable for a carburator is listed as 45", which is
encouraging.
Can some one with an AFP unit confirm for me that 45" is a reasonable
length for the mixture cable? If you bought the Van's cable, did you
end up thinking it should have been a little longer or shorter?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut .040 stock |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
I cut from .020" to .125" aluminum sheet as well as aluminum angle stock to
.250 " using a band saw with a fine tooth plywood veneer blade. A power
hacksaw worked also but the aluminum is soft enough that the veneer blade
cut faster and actually better so I stopped using it in favor of the
bandsaw. The cut is then finished with a small belt sander to remove the
blade marks and polished smooth with a scotchbrite wheel.
Dick DeCramer
N500DD RV6
100hours
N149KC RV4
Northfield, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AFP mixture cable length |
I'm getting ready for the same trials and tribulations.......
Tom, Where are you penetrating the firewall? I've got vans FWF plans (a little
late in my case - I had already put stuff in so I may not be able to use their
given location......
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Jan 10, 2006 11:53 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: AFP mixture cable length
>
>
>I spent an embarassingly long amount of time trying to figure out where
>the mixture cable (for AFP) should penetrate the firewall and how long
>it should be (for RV-6A with IO360). I used my heater cable control to
>estimate it. I came up with a length of about 45" or 45.5" . I notice
>that Van's mixture cable for a carburator is listed as 45", which is
>encouraging.
>
>Can some one with an AFP unit confirm for me that 45" is a reasonable
>length for the mixture cable? If you bought the Van's cable, did you
>end up thinking it should have been a little longer or shorter?
>
>Thanks,
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>Engine.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aeromedical, which is best |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Dear FAA Sucks,
I would like to point out some errors that you made in your
rant.........ah....errr....ahhh, never mind.
Chuck Jensen
FAA Sucks,
This is a FAA medical rant.
My experience with the FAA Medial branch is they are corrupt,
dishonest and certainly unwilling to follow there own regulations when
it pleases them. Why is it necessary for one to routinely need the
assistance of APOA or EAA much less pay a hired gun $1000 to present
your case to the FAA. Why should my clinical doctor need tutoring in
the correct language to sent to the FAA, and why should the honest
evaluation and opinion of an examining physician require the nuance to
satisfy the Bring me a different colored rock mentality of the FAA.
Summary of my case:
20 years ago suffered documented mechanical damage to lungs,
oxygenation at rest not impaired.
3 years ago bypass surgery satisfactory recovery.
When unable to complete the 9 minutes required (5 min)of the Bruce
protocol from lung capacity on a hot August day at 7000 feet msl (think
density altitude) the FAA was consulted, and asked if the chemical
stress test should be completed. The FAA replied over the phone, with
sufficient delay for a doctor consultation, no the conditions would be
factored in to the decision.
FAA denial, after episodes of lost records etc., and disallowance of
the chemical stress test
A subsequent stress test at 5000 msl was improved (6 min) but the 9
minutes were not completed. The clinical physical evaluated the results
were acceptable for unlimited activity.
Another FAA denial citing the 9 minute requirement and disallowance of
the chemical stress test allowed by their own regulations.
I propose taking the 3rd class medical out of the hands of the FAA
(maybe even all classes). With a 100,000 case backlog this should be
evidence enough of the FAA incompetence, an inability to function and
the lack of predictability of illness are reasons to remove this from
the FAA prevue. Privatetization, if you will, is the answer to
incompetent government.
Sincerely B
---------------------------------
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events,
holidays, whatever.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | AFP mixture cable length |
>
> I spent an embarassingly long amount of time trying to figure
> out where the mixture cable (for AFP) should penetrate the
> firewall and how long it should be (for RV-6A with IO360). I
> used my heater cable control to estimate it. I came up with
> a length of about 45" or 45.5" . I notice that Van's mixture
> cable for a carburator is listed as 45", which is encouraging.
>
> Can some one with an AFP unit confirm for me that 45" is a
> reasonable length for the mixture cable? If you bought the
> Van's cable, did you end up thinking it should have been a
> little longer or shorter?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Tom, besides overall length, the travel of the cable must be enough to get
full travel of whatever is being controlled. I have an AFP on a 360, and I
recall that the travel needed to be more than what Van's normally supplied
(at least in 2000). Additionally, the travel of a given cable is reduced by
any accumulated curvature of the installed cable. I believe that there is a
good writeup of all this both in the archives (search my name and cable?)
and in Aircraft Spruce's catalog. The cables are made by a company called
ACS (this isn't Aircraft Spruce), and all of the cable parameters can be
custom ordered very quickly and reasonably. Additionally, the free length
of the actuator rod on the engine end can be specified.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 704 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AFP mixture cable length |
Ralph:
I am planning to penetrate the firewall about 4.3" up from the floor
and as close as possible to the inboard edge of the vertical 3/4" angle
that is a few inches left of center. This is for a 6. If you have a 7,
the firewall angle may be a bit different. Horizontally the penetration
point is about 3.2" left of the centerline, I think. I didn't measure
that very accurately. My main requirement is to be inboard of that
angle. That gives it a pretty straight shot from the firewall to the
mixture arm on the AFP unit. On the inside, an upward turn of radius 4"
or 5" (depending on how you route it around the horizontal rudder pedal
mount tubes) will get it to the standard place on the inst. panel. I
plan to use a Cablecraft cable that spec's a min. bend radius of 3".
It could penetrate a bit higher, but I have an obstacle on the firewall
there and if I moved it any higher at all it would have to go about 3"
higher to clear, so I decided to keep it down low.
I used a piece of 3/16" dowl held against the mixture arm to
project the path back towards the firewall as I moved the mixture arm.
The cable attach point (for Cablecraft) is 8.4" back from the end of the
cable at max extension (=full rich), so that gives you an idea of where
it has to attach to the mounting bracket. I may not use the
AFP-supplied brackets. I might make my own. Depends on how they line up
once the cable is in hand. BTW, if you don't already have it, note that
Vans has a cable end mounting kit cheap. It has rod end bearing, special
small washers, etc. to connect the cable to the arm on the carb/fuel servo.
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>I'm getting ready for the same trials and tribulations.......
>
>Tom, Where are you penetrating the firewall? I've got vans FWF plans (a little
late in my case - I had already put stuff in so I may not be able to use their
given location......
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Housing Question... |
The more I think about this, the more I want to explore the idea of an RV
neighborhood in Camp Scholler.
One possibility, it seems to me, is me going over on Friday this year
(isntead of Sunday) and grab the permits and passes for those who want to
camp in the same area and who are driving in or flying in later. Then I'd
stake out all the spots and as folks show up, they can call me on the
cellphone and I can meet them at the gate or registration area and give them
the paperwork and the directions (and a ride if need be).
Usually we put together the RV7 BBQ on Wednesday (now known as the RV7
Family Reunion), but we could actually make it a week-long affair with a
single spot in the middle of this neighborhood as the RV builders social
center, culminated with the big get-together on Wednesday.
Usually this spot is on 12th between Lindbergh and Elm, and I wouldn't
expect it to be any different.
Worth considering.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Oregon Aero seats |
I just received the foam core seats from Oregon Aero for my RV-7A and they
are sweet and fun to sit on to make the required airplane noises.
But I notice that they're not configured for the crotch strap. How are you
similar seat owners handling this? I kinda hate the idea of just hacking
out a big old hole in something that just cost me $700, but is that the way
to go?
Thanks
Bob
St. Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AFP mixture cable length |
Tom,
I'm building a 6A and already have my Odyssey battery mounted on the two vertical
angles that you reference (If I read/understand correctly). I do have space
between the top of the battery and the bottom of the oil-filter bulge that sticks
out aft of the firewall.
When you say about 3.2" left of center, I'm thinking you're sitting in the pilot's
seat looking under your instrument panel?!
Thanks,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Jan 11, 2006 9:11 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: AFP mixture cable length
>
>
>Ralph:
> I am planning to penetrate the firewall about 4.3" up from the floor
>and as close as possible to the inboard edge of the vertical 3/4" angle
>that is a few inches left of center. This is for a 6. If you have a 7,
>the firewall angle may be a bit different. Horizontally the penetration
>point is about 3.2" left of the centerline, I think. I didn't measure
>that very accurately. My main requirement is to be inboard of that
>angle. That gives it a pretty straight shot from the firewall to the
>mixture arm on the AFP unit. On the inside, an upward turn of radius 4"
>or 5" (depending on how you route it around the horizontal rudder pedal
>mount tubes) will get it to the standard place on the inst. panel. I
>plan to use a Cablecraft cable that spec's a min. bend radius of 3".
>
>It could penetrate a bit higher, but I have an obstacle on the firewall
>there and if I moved it any higher at all it would have to go about 3"
>higher to clear, so I decided to keep it down low.
>
> I used a piece of 3/16" dowl held against the mixture arm to
>project the path back towards the firewall as I moved the mixture arm.
>The cable attach point (for Cablecraft) is 8.4" back from the end of the
>cable at max extension (=full rich), so that gives you an idea of where
>it has to attach to the mounting bracket. I may not use the
>AFP-supplied brackets. I might make my own. Depends on how they line up
>once the cable is in hand. BTW, if you don't already have it, note that
>Vans has a cable end mounting kit cheap. It has rod end bearing, special
>small washers, etc. to connect the cable to the arm on the carb/fuel servo.
>
>Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>>
>>I'm getting ready for the same trials and tribulations.......
>>
>>Tom, Where are you penetrating the firewall? I've got vans FWF plans (a little
late in my case - I had already put stuff in so I may not be able to use their
given location......
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Ralph Capen
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Best way to cut .040 stock |
If you're not cutting a whole lot, I've used a Dremel with a cut off wheel
and found it not only fast but accurate. The other route is to make a zero
tolerance insert for your band saw so the material doesn't get sucked down
and stays nice and firm on the table. Make sure, however, that your band
saw blade is many teethed and that you tune it up so the blade doesn't
wander, ruining your cut. Works fine that way for most thicknesses.
John Jessen
RV-10 elevators.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick DeCramer
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
I cut from .020" to .125" aluminum sheet as well as aluminum angle stock to
.250 " using a band saw with a fine tooth plywood veneer blade. A power
hacksaw worked also but the aluminum is soft enough that the veneer blade
cut faster and actually better so I stopped using it in favor of the
bandsaw. The cut is then finished with a small belt sander to remove the
blade marks and polished smooth with a scotchbrite wheel.
Dick DeCramer
N500DD RV6
100hours
N149KC RV4
Northfield, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AFP mixture cable length |
Ralph:
Yes. Well actually I mean 3.2" left (airplane's left) from the
center of the nose gear. I made the assumption that was the centerline
of the fuselage. It's probably a bit off from centerline.
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>Tom,
>
>I'm building a 6A and already have my Odyssey battery mounted on the two vertical
angles that you reference (If I read/understand correctly). I do have space
between the top of the battery and the bottom of the oil-filter bulge that
sticks out aft of the firewall.
>
>When you say about 3.2" left of center, I'm thinking you're sitting in the pilot's
seat looking under your instrument panel?!
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross S" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ? |
I had the hartzel C/S that vans sells for the 200 horse engine. I would
gladly use it again or step up to the new blended airfoil one when it is
available. The MT's sure are pretty.
>From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ?
>Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 16:39:10 -0500
>
>
>
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ?
>
>
>It may only be 7 or so cubes per cylinder, but if you look at the total
>displacement difference, the 390 is 8.3% bigger. Equate this to power and
>your looking at almost 17 horses. In reality, the 390 doesn't make 217
>horses, it makes right at 210. Many have been run on a good dyno (BPE in
>Tulsa) and they do in fact make rated power, which is more than can be said
>for the 200 horse rated 360.
>
>Ross
>Former RV-7 390 owner
>Future RV-7 390 owner
>
>Ross: What propeller did/will you use?
>
>Gordon Comfort
>N363GC
>
>_
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... |
| From: | "JohnR" <RV7(at)agfp.com> |
bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.n wrote:
> The more I think about this, the more I want to explore the idea of an RV
> neighborhood in Camp Scholler.
>
That sounds like a great idea! We are planning on attending Osh again this year
and it would be nice to meet some of the other builders. I would be in for a
spot in an RV neighborhood.
--------
JohnR
RV-7A - empennage, wing kit inventoried
N624KJ reserved
Numbers 6:24 - The LORD bless thee, and keep thee
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3002#3002
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ? |
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ?
I had the hartzel C/S that vans sells for the 200 horse engine. I would
gladly use it again or step up to the new blended airfoil one when it is
available. The MT's sure are pretty.
>Ross
>Former RV-7 390 owner
>Future RV-7 390 owner
>
>Ross: What propeller did/will you use?
Ross: Thanks for the reply. Did you find the RPM restriction bothersome? I
will use a 390 and am looking at props. Considering an Aerocomposites 2
blade unit.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EZ Pilot Autopilot |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Dear List,
I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
<http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
Robin
RV-6A 240 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | control cables and engine movement |
While figuring out how to route my control cables for throttle and
mixture, it occurs to me that the engine can rotate quite a bit when it
starts and stops. There is only going to be 3 or 4 inches of cable
between the firewall, where it is firmly gripped, and the notch in the
cable sheath where it is also firmly gripped. Engine movement could put
a lot of tension on the cable.
Is this something I should worry about?
Should I be allowing for some "slack" in the cable between the firewall
and the attach point? It doesn't seem that's very easy to do.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Weaver" <bweaver1(at)twcny.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... |
I=92ve had some good luck getting a hotel in Appleton and taking the shuttle
bus down to the convention. The bus ride is reasonable and goes directly
to the front gate =96 you don=92t need a car. You can either land at
Appleton=97there are shuttle busses to the hotels from the airport, or land at
OSH and take the shuttle back each night. They start running early in the
morning and the last one leaves the convention site about 7 pm. By that
time I=92m usually ready for bed anyway.
Brian Weaver
Mexico, NY
Cessna 140 driver until I get my kids through college
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Best way to cut .040 stock |
I had excellent success using a hand jig saw (DeWALT) and a fine blade and
moderate speed set on the trigger. Straight cuts or curves come out really
nice if you have a steady hand. I taped the stock to a table with the portion
to be removed hanging over the table edge. Cuts heavier stock just as well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Robin-
I'm ve
-----Original Message-----
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)mrmoisture.com>
Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
Dear List,
I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
<http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
Robin
RV-6A 240 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Robin- I'm quite happy with mine in the RV, both the EZ pilot and the altitude
hold. You are correct about direct interface with Navaid roll servo.
Be aware of what the unit will not (yet) do- coupled approaches including vertical
guidance, a feature offered by several EFIS box-autopilot combinations now.
To find out whether they will ever have this capability, talk directly with
the good folks at Trio. They are reluctant to tout their products, future plans,
trade secrets, and the weaknesses of the competition in public forums, but
are quite forthcoming if you ask direct questions.
Their customer service is the equal of anyone's.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)mrmoisture.com>
Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
Dear List,
I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
<http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
Robin
RV-6A 240 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Are you sure you have the NavAid set up correctly? I have no qualms about
mine. I flick the switch to tk and it follows my gps course very closely,
including turns.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
>
> Dear List,
>
> I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
> of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
> <http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
> interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
> already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
> Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
> the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
>
>
> Robin
>
> RV-6A 240 hours
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... |
Dear listers,
Any one can hold or reserve a place for anybody in the camp area, however,
the hidden hooker is "you must PAY for each day" from the beginning of the
reservation, not the actual time you use. The exception to this rule is
anyone who is a member of the "Century club" may reserve a camp place
anytime without paying for it. These people always reserve all of the good
places at least a month before the fly in. I live in Green Bay and usually
reserve a camp place a week before the fly in and it usually costs me at
least an extra 200 dollars for the flyin.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 8:52 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question...
>
> The more I think about this, the more I want to explore the idea of an RV
> neighborhood in Camp Scholler.
>
> One possibility, it seems to me, is me going over on Friday this year
> (isntead of Sunday) and grab the permits and passes for those who want to
> camp in the same area and who are driving in or flying in later. Then I'd
> stake out all the spots and as folks show up, they can call me on the
> cellphone and I can meet them at the gate or registration area and give
> them
> the paperwork and the directions (and a ride if need be).
>
> Usually we put together the RV7 BBQ on Wednesday (now known as the RV7
> Family Reunion), but we could actually make it a week-long affair with a
> single spot in the middle of this neighborhood as the RV builders social
> center, culminated with the big get-together on Wednesday.
>
> Usually this spot is on 12th between Lindbergh and Elm, and I wouldn't
> expect it to be any different.
>
> Worth considering.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Dear List,
>
> I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
> of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
> <http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
> interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
> already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
> Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
> the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
>
I know this bugs some listers, but if you go to the RV-List search
engine and search "EZ-pilot", you will get 70 messages with discussions
about this fine autopilot:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/search.html
A search on "Trio Avionics" yields 58 hits.
The archives are your friend! :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, EZ-Pilot)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Robin,
Consider a TRUTRAK. It will interface with the Navaid servo. You can order
it without the servo at a lower price. It is far superior to the TRIO imho.
Dick Martin
N233M RV8
Trutrak test pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
>
> Dear List,
>
> I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
> of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
> <http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
> interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
> already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
> Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
> the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
>
>
> Robin
>
> RV-6A 240 hours
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Housing Question... |
Right, that's why I say folks wold have to pay in advance. The thing with
camping is that you pay for the whole shebang and then the days you don't
use, you get refunded. But getting the spot wouldn't be the challenge (by
the way, the folks who get there early don't have the "right stuff" to camp
with the REAL campers! Out inthe field (g)
No the hard part is just getting a whole "street" individually staked out.
And if folks weren't arriving until, say, Tuesday or Wednesday, we wouldn't
be able to stake out a spot.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dick martin
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:07 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question...
>
>
>
> Dear listers,
> Any one can hold or reserve a place for anybody in the camp
> area, however,
> the hidden hooker is "you must PAY for each day" from the
> beginning of the
> reservation, not the actual time you use. The exception to
> this rule is
> anyone who is a member of the "Century club" may reserve a camp place
> anytime without paying for it. These people always reserve
> all of the good
> places at least a month before the fly in. I live in Green
> Bay and usually
> reserve a camp place a week before the fly in and it usually
> costs me at
> least an extra 200 dollars for the flyin.
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233M
> the fast one
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 8:52 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question...
>
>
> > -->
> >
> > The more I think about this, the more I want to explore the
> idea of an
> > RV neighborhood in Camp Scholler.
> >
> > One possibility, it seems to me, is me going over on Friday
> this year
> > (isntead of Sunday) and grab the permits and passes for
> those who want
> > to camp in the same area and who are driving in or flying in later.
> > Then I'd stake out all the spots and as folks show up, they
> can call
> > me on the cellphone and I can meet them at the gate or registration
> > area and give them the paperwork and the directions (and a ride if
> > need be).
> >
> > Usually we put together the RV7 BBQ on Wednesday (now known
> as the RV7
> > Family Reunion), but we could actually make it a week-long
> affair with
> > a single spot in the middle of this neighborhood as the RV builders
> > social center, culminated with the big get-together on Wednesday.
> >
> > Usually this spot is on 12th between Lindbergh and Elm, and
> I wouldn't
> > expect it to be any different.
> >
> > Worth considering.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EZ Pilot Autopilot |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I actually did do my first search in the archives BEFORE requesting info
from the list. I guess my search skills match my autopilot skills.
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut .040 stock |
I too have found the hand jig saw to work very well on .040 and up to 0.25. I
tape the stock to
prevent the foot scratching the surface and find control excellent. Easy to cut
very close to the
line. I use a little Boelube on the blade before a cut.
On thinner stock I prefer the off cut wheel and die grinder.
I'd like to try a bandsaw but space does not permit.
Doug Gray
RV-6 Seat Back assy
PeterHunt1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I had excellent success using a hand jig saw (DeWALT) and a fine blade and
> moderate speed set on the trigger. Straight cuts or curves come out really
> nice if you have a steady hand. I taped the stock to a table with the portion
> to be removed hanging over the table edge. Cuts heavier stock just as well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Robin,
I just installed my EZ pilot and love it. I had the Navaid and there is no comparison.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3212#3212
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Why do you make the claim it is "far superior"?
Where's the proof? Give me the side by side comparison?
Otherwise I could think you just got a freebie from them and are so excited you'd
make an usubstantiated claim and we'd never be inclined to believe you again..hypothetically
speaking of course. ;-)
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
>
> Robin,
> Consider a TRUTRAK. It will interface with the Navaid servo. You can order
> it without the servo at a lower price. It is far superior to the TRIO imho.
> Dick Martin
> N233M RV8
> Trutrak test pilot
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Marks"
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:48 PM
> Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
>
>
> >
> > Dear List,
> >
> > I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
> > of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
> > ). It is that it is a direct replacement
> > interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
> > already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
> > Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
> > the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
> >
> >
> >
> > Robin
> >
> > RV-6A 240 hours
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Why do you make the claim it is "far superior"?
Where's the proof? Give me the side by side comparison?
Otherwise I could think you just got a freebie from them and are so excited you'd
make an usubstantiated claim and we'd never be inclined to believe you again..hypothetically
speaking of course. ;-)
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "dick martin" martin(at)gbonline.com
-- RV-List message posted by: "dick martin"
Robin,
Consider a TRUTRAK. It will interface with the Navaid servo. You can order
it without the servo at a lower price. It is far superior to the TRIO imho.
Dick Martin
N233M RV8
Trutrak test pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <ROBIN(at)MRMOISTURE.COM>
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
-- RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks"
Dear List,
I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
). It is that it is a direct replacement
interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
Robin
RV-6A 240 hours
browse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
----- Original Message -----
From: dick martin
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
Last year, I flew approx. 30 hours with a TruTrak in a RV9A. It worked very well.
However, since that time, I purchased an EZ Pilot for my 6A, due to all the included
features,
such as the GPS readouts, turn indicator, 180 degree reversal, etc. IMO, and from
what many others
have said, they are both good units & interface to a panel or hand-held GPS easily.
Robin,
Consider a TRUTRAK. It will interface with the Navaid servo. You can order
it without the servo at a lower price. It is far superior to the TRIO imho.
Dick Martin
N233M RV8
Trutrak test pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
dick martin wrote:
>
> Robin,
> Consider a TRUTRAK. It will interface with the Navaid servo. You can order
> it without the servo at a lower price. It is far superior to the TRIO imho.
> Dick Martin
> N233M RV8
> Trutrak test pilot
Dick,
No doubt anyone with field experience with the new digital autopilots
will agree that TruTrak makes very nice equipment. Matter of fact, I fly
their AlTrak and it is superb in regard to doing what it is advertised
to do.
I am, however, intrigued by your opinion concerning the DigiTrak being
"far superior" to the EZ-Pilot. Since the EZ-Pilot offers much more in
the way of display information presented to the pilot than the DigiTrak,
there must be something in the way the DigiTrak performs in-flight that
compels you to make this assertion. I am very interested in hearing your
comments in this regard.
Since the EZ-Pilot in my RV-6 performs precisely as advertised, the
DigiTrak must be capable of some extraordinary performance. For the sake
of all us who are attempting to keep up with the advances in digital
autopilots, please provide your input as to how you have found the
DigiTrak to be far superior to the EZ-Pilot (and I suppose all other
systems since the digital units will out-perform analog systems) in
side-by-side comparisons.
Thank you in advance for your reply,
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "oliver h washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
I swapped my nav-aid head for the EZ-pilot and it has worked
perfectially. Before I was never sure which way the plane would go when I
turned the autopilot on. They are great people to work with and at S & F
they came out to my plane to try and help me figure out why it would not
couple with GPS, end result I needed one more wire coming from GPS.
Ollie Central Fl.
> [Original Message]
> From: <sportav8r(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Date: 1/11/2006 9:19:50 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
>
>
> Robin-
>
> I'm ve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robin Marks <robin(at)mrmoisture.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
>
>
> Dear List,
>
> I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
> of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
> <http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
> interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
> already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
> Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
> the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
>
>
> Robin
>
> RV-6A 240 hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Frederick <f1boss(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | CAUTION: COMMERCIAL CONTENT |
Hi Fellas:
I have 2 sets of Hooker Harnesses that need to go to a new owner:
1 set RV4/8 mil latch silver webbing burgundy pads/silver trim
1 set RV6/7/9 mil latch Navy blue webbing/pads/trim
Normal pricing $373.78/set
Either of these for $350 + shipping.
Please contact me off-list!
--
Cheers!
Mark
Team Rocket LP
Tech Support 512.352.6979
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut .040 stock |
A hack saw. 24 or 32 T.P.I blade. TPI = teeth per inch.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mitch Faatz" <mitch(at)skybound.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut .040 stock |
My favorite tool for this is now a "High Speed Air Body Saw" from Harbor
Freight, you can find them on sale for as low as $20! Here's the link:
http://tinyurl.com/dozj9.
It's got a nice thin kerf, zip through aluminum nicely, and can be scrolled
around like a jig saw but it's more controllable and faster.
Ya gotta have one of these in your toolbox! (and get some replacement
'Fine' blades, 5 for $8)
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburnm, CA
P.S. Please read people's questions first. I believe the original question
was posed as "other than bandsaw...", so of course he got about 12 replies
suggesting a bandsaw...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Krueger <pndkrueg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | EngineSaver - does it work? |
Aircraft Components sells a device that pumps low pressure dry air into
the engine block for the purpose of inhibiting rust during long periods
of storage.
Details can be found at: http://www.flyingsafer.com/2039.htm
I am wondering if it really works.
Thank you for your comments and opinions,
Dan Krueger
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Me too, I love my NavAid !
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
>
>
> Are you sure you have the NavAid set up correctly? I have no qualms about
> mine. I flick the switch to tk and it follows my gps course very closely,
> including turns.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 235 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:48 PM
> Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
>
>
>>
>> Dear List,
>>
>> I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
>> of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
>> <http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
>> interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
>> already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
>> Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
>> the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
>>
>>
>>
>> Robin
>>
>> RV-6A 240 hours
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
| From: | "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick(at)cox.net> |
Hi Robin,
My EZ Pilot handles turbulence a lot better than the Navaid. I had to hand fly
the RV in more than real light turbulence. The Navaid would get behind and cause
some wild wing drops. The EZ Pilot does a way better job in turbulence and
I let it fly the plane most of the time. I also find myself using the gps
data on it instead of the gps so I turned the data windows off on the gps to give
myself more room on the gps screen for the moving map. (Garmin GPS III Pilot).
Got a Garmin 296 for Xmas so may change that when I get it mounted. The
EZ pilot uses the NMEA data from the GPS instead of a plus/minus 50 millivolt
analog signal that the Navaid uses so it knows a lot more about where you are
and turns the correct way to intercept the course. The adjustments are all done
in software on the unit, no little screws to turn like on the navaid. The
EZ pilot almost always tracks within 0.00 to 0.02 miles of the course. This
is way better than I could get with the Navaid. I also like the course offset
feature so I can fly 1/4 mile for example to the right of the course centerline.
I dont have the latest software updates so probably missing out on some of
the new features but I think it is definately worth upgrading from the Navaid.
Mine also included a patch cable to go between the EZ pilot head and the old
cable to the Navaid Head. Just had to add a couple of wires to it, I believe
so it was a real easy swap.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
N53KT RV-4
N7053L RV-4
RV-6a canopy and wiring
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Dear List,
> I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
> of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
> interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
> already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
> Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
> the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
> Robin
> RV-6A 240 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3379#3379
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EngineSaver - does it work? |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Couldn't hurt but there is more to it than simply humidity levels. Things like
the oil becoming acidic and other nasty items. Not to mention that dry startup
after sitting for extended periods.
You could roll your own with something like an aquarium air pump, some color changing silica from someplace like <http://www.veritemp.com/index.asp?cat=3D155549>, and some misc fittings for probably less than $30. If you want to improve on it you could have it pull the air from someplace like the breather tube and then pump it right back into the dipstick tube. A fairly closed circuit will probably make the silica crystals go a lot longer before recharge. You could get the 5lb jug from Veritemp and just put the fittings right into that. No need for an additional container.
Best thing for an engine is flying often. If it's going to sit for more than
30 days it should be pickled and then something like this would be just another
line of defense.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Krueger
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 2:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: EngineSaver - does it work?
Aircraft Components sells a device that pumps low pressure dry air into the engine
block for the purpose of inhibiting rust during long periods of storage.
Details can be found at: http://www.flyingsafer.com/2039.htm
I am wondering if it really works.
Thank you for your comments and opinions, Dan Krueger RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: CAUTION: COMMERCIAL CONTENT |
Mark - two queries:
1) are they 5 point? I assume unused and a set mean front and rear seat?
2) are you shipping anything to Petr in CZ that you could tuck them in with?
I could collect from there.
Regards, Steve.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Frederick" <f1boss(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 4:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: CAUTION: COMMERCIAL CONTENT
>
> Hi Fellas:
>
> I have 2 sets of Hooker Harnesses that need to go to a new owner:
>
> 1 set RV4/8 mil latch silver webbing burgundy pads/silver trim
> 1 set RV6/7/9 mil latch Navy blue webbing/pads/trim
>
> Normal pricing $373.78/set
>
> Either of these for $350 + shipping.
>
> Please contact me off-list!
>
> --
>
> Cheers!
> Mark
> Team Rocket LP
> Tech Support 512.352.6979
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
> This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System
> on behalf of the London Business School community.
> For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
>
> --
> 11/01/2006
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
A week ago or so someone posted an RV8 for sale. It was freshly painted,
red, white and blue. Seller was asking $95-100 I think. Anyone remember
who was selling? and how to reach him/her? Thanks.
Tony Marshall
RV6
Polson, MT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
I have both the EZ pilot and the EZ-1 alt hold installed. Ez pilot is hooked to
296. I had some problems getting them going, but support was very good, and
they work as advertised. The wiring for the Alt hold definatly requires some skill,
but the EZ pilot has a mounting kit and wiring kit availible, Charlie Heathco
(RV6a)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Probably "Miss America" it is listed at vansairforce.net in classified 3rd
page or contact Paul_Imhof(at)comcast.net
John Furey
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ribs pre-fluted? |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
The ribs in my empennege kit, at least the HS ribs, all came pre-fluted. I did
not think this was the norm - is it?? The job was done well enough that no additional
work was necessary.
do not archvie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ribs pre-fluted? |
I had some parts on my HS that were pre fluted also (I think they were the
ribs but cannot remember for sure).
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 10:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ribs pre-fluted?
>
>
> The ribs in my empennege kit, at least the HS ribs, all came pre-fluted.
> I did not think this was the norm - is it?? The job was done well enough
> that no additional work was necessary.
>
> do not archvie
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ribs pre-fluted? |
I am at the rib stage of my -8 HS and they are not fluted , but appear to need
very little fluting,
just working with them to make them the best I can,
Dan
-8
"Folbrecht, Paul" wrote:
The ribs in my empennege kit, at least the HS ribs, all came pre-fluted. I did
not think this was the norm - is it?? The job was done well enough that no additional
work was necessary.
do not archvie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Fromm" <jfromm1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | EngineSaver - does it work? |
Dan,
I used one of these while I was building but haven't used it since I've been
flying. So far, I think I've been flying frequently enough not to need it.
I used it while building because I didn't like some of the other pickling
options for various reasons I won't go into here. As for how effective it
was, I don't have any hard evidence to go by (like an engine teardown) but
one thing I did notice right away made me think it was doing what it was
supposed to. I had the usual desiccant plugs installed in my cylinders and
they were well on their way to turning pink when I plugged the Engine Saver
into the breather and turned it on for the first time. Within a day or two,
the desiccant plugs had turned back to blue. That proved to me that very
dry air was indeed circulating throughout the engine.
Two things I didn't like about the unit: 1) it does seem way overpriced for
a small pump and a recycled soda bottle full of silica gel, and 2) the pump
needed constant adjustment to keep the flow in a range where it was moving
enough air to be effective but no so much that you would have to dry the
beads out every other week.
Jack Fromm
RV-8 Flying
Couldn't hurt but there is more to it than simply humidity levels. Things
like the oil becoming acidic and other nasty items. Not to mention that dry
startup
after sitting for extended periods.
You could roll your own with something like an aquarium air pump, some
color
changing silica from someplace like
<http://www.veritemp.com/index.asp?cat=3D155549>, and some misc fittings for
probably less than $30. If you want to improve on it you could have it pull
the
air from someplace like the breather tube and then pump it right back into
the
dipstick tube.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
Aircraft Components sells a device that pumps low pressure dry air into the
engine
block for the purpose of inhibiting rust during long periods of storage.
Details can be found at: http://www.flyingsafer.com/2039.htm
I am wondering if it really works.
Thank you for your comments and opinions, Dan Krueger RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ribs pre-fluted? |
| From: | "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
I'm not surprised. Vans seems to make constant improvements as far as ease
of construction. The instructions on my RV-9A tail kit said that the
elevator horns had to "aligned" for drilling into the spar and end rib
since the holes are not pre-drilled in the spar and rib. Went I went to do
this part, I found that the holes were already drilled. COOL!
Smittys RV-9A
http://SmittysRV.com
>
>
> The ribs in my empennege kit, at least the HS ribs, all came pre-fluted.
> I did not think this was the norm - is it?? The job was done well enough
> that no additional work was necessary.
>
> do not archvie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Glad you ended up happy with yours, Charlie. I am with mine, too. C'mon, the
Alt Hold wiring wasn't all that bad. It was the mounting bracket that took some
puzzling out and some crawling around on the old belly ;-)
As I told Sid, the A/H was difficult to calibrate, since the vibe level in my stick
from the engine made it impossible to feel the servo pulses I was supposed
to tune out, so I ended up at factory defaults and it seems happy.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: charles heathco <cheathco(at)junct.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
I have both the EZ pilot and the EZ-1 alt hold installed. Ez pilot is hooked to
296. I had some problems getting them going, but support was very good, and
they work as advertised. The wiring for the Alt hold definatly requires some
skill, but the EZ pilot has a mounting kit and wiring kit availible, Charlie
Heathco (RV6a)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lakaland RV Flyin delayed to Next weekend |
RV WEEKEND POSTPONED DUE TO INCOMING BAD WEATHER. RESCHEDULED FOR RAIN DATE OF
JANUARY 20/21/22 2005. PLEASE CALL 386-935-2973 WITH ANY QUESTIONS.
Unfortunately, It appears that Friday the 13th had shown its ugly side weather
wise. Despite favorable projections as recently as 24 hours previous, the most
recent projected weather for the Southeast, including Florida, includes a passing
cold front with associated severe weather. This front is bringing severe
thunderstorms, rain/hail and high wind. This front is forecast to cover NC,
GA, AL and parts of North Florida by Friday afternoon. It is forecast to pass
through Lakeland area 2 AM Saturday morning leaving clear, but cold and windy
(gusts to 30 mph) Saturday. Additionally, there is activity in the gulf that
appears will move onshore in the northern part of the state early this morning
and while not severe - will bring clouds and reduced visibility making problematic
any attempted flights from areas north of Florida early this morning
to "beat" the main cold front.
Regretfully, we have decided to cancel the activity schedule for this weekend and
revert to our "RAINDATE" OF 20, 21, 22 Jan (next weekend). Hopefully, this
means that many who would not have been able to reach Lakeland this weekend due
to the weather, will be able to make our rain date. Again, we truly regret
the timing of this notice, but would not want to entice anyone to brave these
conditions. See you next weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
I have followed this thread with interest.
The one thought I have is of the three units discussed (Tru track / Ezi /
Navaid) the true track servos look to be of a much better quality. I have
only handled the Navaid servo, which from pictures looks as though it is
common to the Ezi. It always appeared not too robust.
Anyone care to comment?
Thanks, Steve.
PS Do these companies make these servos themselves?.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Steve Sampson wrote:
>
> I have followed this thread with interest.
>
> The one thought I have is of the three units discussed (Tru track / Ezi /
> Navaid) the true track servos look to be of a much better quality. I have
> only handled the Navaid servo, which from pictures looks as though it is
> common to the Ezi. It always appeared not too robust.
>
> Anyone care to comment?
>
> Thanks, Steve.
>
> PS Do these companies make these servos themselves?.
The TruTrak servo is indeed a nice looking and hefty unit. It uses a
stepping motor instead of a linear motor and clutch. However, I have
heard that a new version of this servo is in the works that has a clutch.
The Navaid servo is much lighter than the TruTrak and based on analog
technology that has been around for many years. In spite of its dated
appearance and light weight, the servo has an excellent field history in
service with both Navaid control heads and more recently with the
EZ-Pilot heads. This servo incorporates a clutch that releases the gear
train when power is removed from the servo.
Trio is shipping their new servo with their altitude hold devices and it
is a dandy both mechanically and electronically. This state-of-the-art
servo is the only one that includes an accelerometer *in the servo* that
is an integral part of the fail-safe system. The servo and control head
constantly poll each other, and if an argument can't be settled, the
system releases the servo. If the servo independently sees a high G load
from its built-in accelerometer, it will deactivate. As far as I know,
this is the only system that provides the servo with enough brains to
independently disconnect in an emergency without being commanded by the
control head. I suspect this new servo will eventually find its way into
the entire Trio product line.
Hope this info helps with understanding the various options. With the
exception of the Navaid servo used on the EZ-Pilot and the Navaid
version of the DigiTrak, as far as I know the other servos are produced
by the respective companies. I am not an employee of any autopilot
company, just a very interested bystander and customer of both Trio and
TruTrak.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
> Trio is shipping their new servo with their altitude hold devices and it
> is a dandy both mechanically and electronically. This state-of-the-art
> servo is the only one that includes an accelerometer *in the servo* that
> is an integral part of the fail-safe system. The servo and control head
> constantly poll each other, and if an argument can't be settled, the
> system releases the servo. If the servo independently sees a high G load
> from its built-in accelerometer, it will deactivate. As far as I know,
> this is the only system that provides the servo with enough brains to
> independently disconnect in an emergency without being commanded by the
> control head. I suspect this new servo will eventually find its way into
> the entire Trio product line.
I just received word from Trio that they have been shipping their new
Gold Standard servo (the one discussed above) with the EZ-Pilot since
about 45 days ago.
I looked inside one of these servos at OSH and the engineering and
materials look first class; should be a worthy component for their
excellent autopilots.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Center Radio Console |
I've seen many RV-4's that have a center radio console
below the instrument panel to save space. Is this
something in the plans, or is it purely a fab yourself
kind of mod?
Since panel space in a -4 is premium, I would think
that many have done this before.
Thanks in advance.
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Center Radio Console |
At 05:40 PM 1/13/2006, you wrote:
>
>I've seen many RV-4's that have a center radio console
>below the instrument panel to save space. Is this
>something in the plans, or is it purely a fab yourself
>kind of mod?
Paul,
A center console is not in the plans. I have one in my purchased -4 and
live with it as best as possible. My panel was not well designed, and I
had no choice at all, except to add a center console when I installed a
radio and transponder. Today, with the EFIS systems available, I think
anyone could figure out a way to have everything above your knees. The
advantage is easy access to battery and the ability to move your legs
around a little bit. On the other hand, the tilt down tray in my -4 is
indispensable! I have heard of some -4 owner using the tilt down concept
to mount radio, transponder, and other instruments
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AFP mixture cable length |
Just to complete this thread for the archive, I have decided to take the
advice of several others and change my mixture and throttle cable
routing plans. The first idea was to bring the cables through the
firewall low so it would have a straight shot to the AFP control arms.
That would have the cable between the bracket on the engine and the
firewall be only about 4" long. That is too short to tolerate engine
movement safely.
I have decided to bring the cable through the firewall just below the
top piece of angle that runs horizontally across the firewall. (I'm
talking about an RV-6A here). That's about 1 foot above the AFP control
arm. The cable will do a graceful S-curve down to the attachment point
on the AFP fuel controller. I think this is much safer, although it
makes things a bit more congested back there.
--
Tom S.
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 Center Radio Console |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Paul,
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-4/cockpit.htm
As a non-builder I added a center console to my -4 and it made for a
cleaner panel giving me a place for a Nav.com, transponder and GPS. I
also added two lower surfaces for four additional engine gauges. It was
a simple addition with little downside. IMHO.
Above is a link with detailed photos.
Robin
January 02, 2006 - January 13, 2006
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ro