RV-Archive.digest.vol-rp
January 13, 2006 - January 22, 2006
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 250 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ribs pre-fluted? |
| From: | "Mike Crowe" <rv8a(at)bellsouth.net> |
I work at Alexander Tech Center as an instructor on the tail kit program.
Some of the RV9 and RV10 HS ribs come fluted.
Mike Crowe
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3810#3810
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ribs pre-fluted? |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
It was not a pre-owned kit. I bought it in June, actually, but had to take a 5.5
month hiatus from the project.
~Paul
~9A QB #1176 Enjoying every minute of it so far.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
In a message dated 1/13/2006 3:11:10 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
don.wentz(at)intel.com writes:
With all this talk about selling of Navaids to buy other autopilots, any
of you selling the Navaids cheap?
Mine works great (compared to what I had before - nothing ;-) and I have
a friend with an RV-4 without even a T&B that would advance light years
with a 'crappy old Navaid' wing leveler.
===================================
I'm down with the Duck Dude on this one. My old vintage '97 Navaid has
worked fine since day one and, aside from the fact that it doesn't have an
altitude hold option (the Pig Dude never come thru on this one), I am generally
happy with it.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 771hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Center Radio Console |
Thanks, Robin. How did you mount your Garmin? Looks
like it's the detachable mount. Is it removable?
--- Robin Marks wrote:
>
>
> Paul,
>
> http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-4/cockpit.htm
>
> As a non-builder I added a center console to my -4
> and it made for a
> cleaner panel giving me a place for a Nav.com,
> transponder and GPS. I
> also added two lower surfaces for four additional
> engine gauges. It was
> a simple addition with little downside. IMHO.
> Above is a link with detailed photos.
>
> Robin
> RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 250 hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EngineSaver - does it work? |
What about the cylinder that is on the compression stroke? It would not get
any dry air and would still be susceptible to condensation from the heating
and cooling effect unless the engine was in a temp controlled environment.
It seems the engine would still have to be rotated every so often. IMHO.
Dan, How's the knee?
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Krueger" <pndkrueg(at)mchsi.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 2:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: EngineSaver - does it work?
>
> Aircraft Components sells a device that pumps low pressure dry air into
> the engine block for the purpose of inhibiting rust during long periods
> of storage.
> Details can be found at: http://www.flyingsafer.com/2039.htm
> I am wondering if it really works.
>
> Thank you for your comments and opinions,
> Dan Krueger
> RV6A Flying
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 Center Radio Console |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Easy, http://www.airgizmos.com/
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 9:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-4 Center Radio Console
Thanks, Robin. How did you mount your Garmin? Looks
like it's the detachable mount. Is it removable?
--- Robin Marks wrote:
>
>
> Paul,
>
> http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-4/cockpit.htm
>
> As a non-builder I added a center console to my -4
> and it made for a
> cleaner panel giving me a place for a Nav.com,
> transponder and GPS. I
> also added two lower surfaces for four additional
> engine gauges. It was
> a simple addition with little downside. IMHO.
> Above is a link with detailed photos.
>
> Robin
> RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 250 hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Sam,
You you explain to me what a "stepper" motor is and how it differs?
Charlie Kuss
snipped
>The TruTrak servo is indeed a nice looking and hefty unit. It uses a
>stepping motor instead of a linear motor and clutch. However, I have
>heard that a new version of this servo is in the works that has a clutch.
>
>The Navaid servo is much lighter than the TruTrak and based on analog
>technology that has been around for many years. In spite of its dated
>appearance and light weight, the servo has an excellent field history in
>service with both Navaid control heads and more recently with the
>EZ-Pilot heads. This servo incorporates a clutch that releases the gear
>train when power is removed from the servo.
snipped
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> Sam,
> You you explain to me what a "stepper" motor is and how it differs?
Charlie, you are asking the wrong person for insight on the design of
stepping motors! This is beyond my scope of expertise. :-)
Here is a link that might help:
http://www.cs.uiowa.edu/~jones/step
As I understand it, the stepping motor can be controlled via digital
signals in order to command very precise and repeatable rotation and
parking positions of the motor shaft. The analog motor that most of us
are familiar with doesn't have discrete "stops" in its rotation and
needs some sort of feedback sensor in order for the control head to
determine the position of the motor shaft.
There, I have made an idiot of myself by diving into an area in which I
have no real knowledge. But hopefully some of the actual motor experts
on the list will jump in and straighten out my mess. :-)
In the real world, I can't tell any difference in the performance of the
analog system in the Navaid servo and the digital stepper in the AlTrak
servo. Both servos work extremely well at driving the control surfaces
in very small, precise increments.
The first time you move the stick on the ground in a plane with the
DigiTrak servo you will notice the servo motor dragging through the
steps since it doesn't have a clutch that disconnects the servo drive
when it isn't engaged. But the drag isn't noticeable in flight. The
Navaid servo has a solenoid that disengages the gear train when power is
not supplied to the servo.
Hope I haven't muddied the water too much. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Sam - thanks for the input. Any idea when Tru track bring out their new
servo. I havnt bought them yet and hate to buy just before things become the
'old' model. Thanks, Steve.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
>
> Steve Sampson wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have followed this thread with interest.
>>
>> The one thought I have is of the three units discussed (Tru track / Ezi /
>> Navaid) the true track servos look to be of a much better quality. I have
>> only handled the Navaid servo, which from pictures looks as though it is
>> common to the Ezi. It always appeared not too robust.
>>
>> Anyone care to comment?
>>
>> Thanks, Steve.
>>
>> PS Do these companies make these servos themselves?.
>
> The TruTrak servo is indeed a nice looking and hefty unit. It uses a
> stepping motor instead of a linear motor and clutch. However, I have
> heard that a new version of this servo is in the works that has a clutch.
>
> The Navaid servo is much lighter than the TruTrak and based on analog
> technology that has been around for many years. In spite of its dated
> appearance and light weight, the servo has an excellent field history in
> service with both Navaid control heads and more recently with the
> EZ-Pilot heads. This servo incorporates a clutch that releases the gear
> train when power is removed from the servo.
>
> Trio is shipping their new servo with their altitude hold devices and it
> is a dandy both mechanically and electronically. This state-of-the-art
> servo is the only one that includes an accelerometer *in the servo* that
> is an integral part of the fail-safe system. The servo and control head
> constantly poll each other, and if an argument can't be settled, the
> system releases the servo. If the servo independently sees a high G load
> from its built-in accelerometer, it will deactivate. As far as I know,
> this is the only system that provides the servo with enough brains to
> independently disconnect in an emergency without being commanded by the
> control head. I suspect this new servo will eventually find its way into
> the entire Trio product line.
>
> Hope this info helps with understanding the various options. With the
> exception of the Navaid servo used on the EZ-Pilot and the Navaid
> version of the DigiTrak, as far as I know the other servos are produced
> by the respective companies. I am not an employee of any autopilot
> company, just a very interested bystander and customer of both Trio and
> TruTrak.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
> This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System
> on behalf of the London Business School community.
> For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
>
> --
> 12/01/2006
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Center Radio Console |
| From: | "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick(at)cox.net> |
Hi Paul,
I removed the center console from Katies RV-4 and made a new subpanel below the
main panel instead. Sure a lot happier with new setup. If you want the old
center console, you can have it and you may be able modify it to work for you
and save you some time. We relocated the battery to the firewall and are going
to use the center console area as a storage space.
There is also a rv-4 center console for sale on ebay right now for $25 opening
bid.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
pbesing(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> I've seen many RV-4's that have a center radio console
> below the instrument panel to save space. Is this
> something in the plans, or is it purely a fab yourself
> kind of mod?
>
> Since panel space in a -4 is premium, I would think
> that many have done this before.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Paul Besing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3927#3927
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
You could purchase the tru track alt hold regardless of your a/p setup. I
have the Navaid and tru traks alt hold and love it. I would put the alt
hold in before the wing leveler. Its really nice when you're by yourself.
GO BEARS
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 11:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
>
>
> In a message dated 1/13/2006 3:11:10 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> don.wentz(at)intel.com writes:
>
> With all this talk about selling of Navaids to buy other autopilots, any
> of you selling the Navaids cheap?
>
> Mine works great (compared to what I had before - nothing ;-) and I have
> a friend with an RV-4 without even a T&B that would advance light years
> with a 'crappy old Navaid' wing leveler.
>
>
> ===================================
>
> I'm down with the Duck Dude on this one. My old vintage '97 Navaid has
> worked fine since day one and, aside from the fact that it doesn't have an
> altitude hold option (the Pig Dude never come thru on this one), I am
> generally
> happy with it.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 771hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Steve Sampson wrote:
>
> Sam - thanks for the input. Any idea when Tru track bring out their new
> servo. I havnt bought them yet and hate to buy just before things become the
> 'old' model. Thanks, Steve.
Steve, sorry I don't know, but I bet a call to TruTrak would provide you
with that and any other info you need. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Thanks!! Steve.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
>
> Steve Sampson wrote:
>>
>>
>> Sam - thanks for the input. Any idea when Tru track bring out their new
>> servo. I havnt bought them yet and hate to buy just before things become
>> the
>> 'old' model. Thanks, Steve.
>
>
> Steve, sorry I don't know, but I bet a call to TruTrak would provide you
> with that and any other info you need. :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
> This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System
> on behalf of the London Business School community.
> For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
>
> --
> 14/01/2006
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EZ Pilot Autopilot |
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle(at)hq.InclineSoftworks.com> |
A stepper motor is computer controlled. They basically have windings
that are offset. When you energize one set, the motor moves a fraction
of a turn in one direction. If you then engage the other set, it
continues to move the same direction for another step. Alternate them,
and the motor turns round and round. If you change the order - the
phase - of powering up the windings, it moves the other direction.
Step motors are the basis for a lot of CNC machines. By counting steps,
you know where the head is. And steps can be very small.
On nice thing about most stepper motors is that if you don't engage
either set of windings, the motor will free wheel. (It takes energy to
hold it on the current step - no energy = free wheel). This is a nice
feature that
eliminates the need for a separate clutch. If
the autopilot is not engaged, just let the motor freewheel.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
Sam,
You you explain to me what a "stepper" motor is and how it differs?
Charlie Kuss
snipped
>The TruTrak servo is indeed a nice looking and hefty unit. It uses a
>stepping motor instead of a linear motor and clutch. However, I have
>heard that a new version of this servo is in the works that has a
clutch.
>
>The Navaid servo is much lighter than the TruTrak and based on analog
>technology that has been around for many years. In spite of its dated
>appearance and light weight, the servo has an excellent field history
in
>service with both Navaid control heads and more recently with the
>EZ-Pilot heads. This servo incorporates a clutch that releases the gear
>train when power is removed from the servo.
snipped
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
> I looked inside one of these servos at OSH and the engineering and
> materials look first class; should be a worthy component for their
> excellent autopilots.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
It the new 'Servo' for EZ-Pilot a stepper or a true (analogue) servo?
I had discounted the EZ-Pilot previously because it had a stepper. I could not
get my mind around
how they delt with overtorquing the stepper, I suspect they have needed to resort
to another
micro-controller within their new 'servo' to keep track of the actual position.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Doug Gray wrote:
>
>
>> I looked inside one of these servos at OSH and the engineering and
>> materials look first class; should be a worthy component for their
>> excellent autopilots.
>>
>> Sam Buchanan
>>
>>
> Is the new 'Servo' for EZ-Pilot a stepper or a true (analogue) servo?
I don't know, Doug.
> I had discounted the EZ-Pilot previously because it had a stepper.
Nope, Trio's EZ-Pilot has been using the Navaid servo which is *not* a
stepper setup. TruTrak uses a stepper design with their systems.
> I could not get my mind around how they delt with overtorquing the
> stepper, I suspect they have needed to resort to another
> micro-controller within their new 'servo' to keep track of the actual
> position.
There is *no* way I am going to speculate on the specifics of Trio's new
servo design! :-)
Here is what Trio has on their web site about the new servo:
http://www.trioavionics.com/servo.htm
It appears to be a well thought-out design which is what I have come to
expect from the Trio guys.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mannan J. Thomason" <mannanj(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
Steve:
Check with Tru Track to be certain, but I think I remember that they will
let you upgrade to a newer or better version for just the difference in
price between the two.
Mannan Thomason
RV-8 Tru Track installed, hoping to fly this spring.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu>
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
>
> Sam - thanks for the input. Any idea when Tru track bring out their new
> servo. I havnt bought them yet and hate to buy just before things become
> the
> 'old' model. Thanks, Steve.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Center Radio Console |
Brilliant idea!
--- Robin Marks wrote:
>
>
> Easy, http://www.airgizmos.com/
>
> Robin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Paul Besing
> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 9:57 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-4 Center Radio Console
>
>
>
> Thanks, Robin. How did you mount your Garmin?
> Looks
> like it's the detachable mount. Is it removable?
>
> --- Robin Marks wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Paul,
> >
> > http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-4/cockpit.htm
> >
> > As a non-builder I added a center console to my -4
> > and it made for a
> > cleaner panel giving me a place for a Nav.com,
> > transponder and GPS. I
> > also added two lower surfaces for four additional
> > engine gauges. It was
> > a simple addition with little downside. IMHO.
> > Above is a link with detailed photos.
> >
> > Robin
> > RV-4 Sold
> > RV-6A 250 hours
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> > Admin.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | need some advice here, guys- alternator for RV |
Armed with info gleaned from the AeroElectric list and elsewhere on the web, I
went alternator-shopping at the local auto parts stores today, to see how close
I could get to the recommended 70 A machine that goes by part number Lester
13353 or NipponDenso 121000-346. If I had not had the additional tidbit that
it fits a '93 Dodge Ramcharger 5.2 liter pickup, I think the parts counter clerks
would have been helpless to assist me. The choices that came up "in stock"
were limited to one: the Dodge's optional 90 amp externally-regulated machine
(reman) with a serpentine pulley, in a 125mm case. My quest for a VR-166 Ford
regulator also ended with a substitute, the Sorensen VR-301.
The alternator comes with its own computer-generated test output graph and data
table, indicating it is capable of 126 amps at 6000 rpm, and draws 5.72 amps
of field current at that output. It seems to weigh about 11 lbs on the bathroom
scales. Already I'm thinking this might be more of a fire-breathing machine
than I should bolt to my RV, even if it's a physical fit, which I think it will
be. I'm not sure the electronic regulator will necessarily "handle" it, but
not sure why it wouldn't. I don't need anywhere near the output this alternator
is capable of, and I don't want my 5 amp field breaker nuisance-tripping
because the field happens to want near that amount (no idea how linear the field
current vs output curve might be, so no way to know field current at closer
to 50-60 amps, for example.)
Finally, I'm unsure how easily the V-pulley from my original Van's 35 A machine
will slip onto the shaft of the new alternator. Any takers on that one? When
I make the swap, I'd like to have everything go smoothly with a minimum of downtime.
Basically, I'd like some reassurance that this is worth trying. I can
always take it back and order the Dodge 70 amp alternator; same physical size,
and ironically more money.
Advice appreciated, friends. Thanks.
-Bill Boyd RV-6A O-320 FP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> |
| Subject: | Pratice Kit ,, great tool |
As I collected my tools and dabbled with the spars on the HS I decide to assemble
the practice kit i had from Van's
Great Tool ! had fun and learned a lot about rivets and driving them ,
The kit came out good but made a few mistakes that I'm glad it was on a practice
kit,,
So I learned a lot ,, and have a cool desk ornament.
Highly recommend any new builder to build one.
Dan
-8 QB
N728RV Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Pratice Kit ,, great tool |
Hi to all and Dan
I did the same and it real helped develop my skills early in the build
process.
Frank @ SGU and SLC Fuse / Finish RV7A
>From: Dan <dan(at)rdan.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Pratice Kit ,, great tool
>Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 17:03:35 -0800 (PST)
>
>
>As I collected my tools and dabbled with the spars on the HS I decide to
>assemble the practice kit i had from Van's
> Great Tool ! had fun and learned a lot about rivets and driving them ,
> The kit came out good but made a few mistakes that I'm glad it was on a
>practice kit,,
> So I learned a lot ,, and have a cool desk ornament.
> Highly recommend any new builder to build one.
> Dan
> -8 QB
> N728RV Reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
What in the world are you hauling in your RV ???? If you have an arc
welder,then you might need that many amps !!! otherwise come down to earth and
get a proper sized alternator. I can't imagine anyone needing more than 45 amp
output in an RV.
If others can show that more is needed,then do so.
I have flown with radios,xpndr,strobe/nav lights and 130 watt landing lights
on and didn't need more than 35 amps,which my alternaror puts out.
I use a Toyota alternator with 4" pulley.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jordan Grant <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
Listers:
I have a radio noise problem. I've checked the archives, and I can't
find a similar problem having been discussed on the RV list or the
AeroElectric list. Here are the symptoms:
1) When I turn on the master switch, I get noise in my headset that
emanates from the VHF radio. I know its the VHF radio because the noise
volume can be controlled with the volume knob on the radio. The radio is
an Apollo GX-60. The noise sounds exactly like the squelch is turned on
- just some static. The noise is usually constant, but sometimes goes
intermittent. The radio frequency does not matter.
2) I have an ACS2002 engine monitor. The noise is correlated to the
engine monitor's function. The noise will go away (or go to
intermittent) when I start the ACS2002 in calibration mode. When I
return to normal mode, the noise is back. If I pull the fuse for the
ACS, the noise goes away entirely and does not come back. If I pull the
audo connection d-sub from the back of the ACS screen, there is no
change at all - still noisy.
3) This is all with the engine OFF, keyswitch OFF, every other accessory
turned off.
I have 2 theories, based on the very little avionics knowledge that I have.
Theory A) Some sensor on the ACS is causing RF noise. I don't know which
one - I may have to start disconnecting them one at a time (on my back,
under the panel) to try and isolate.
Theory B) My antenna installation is screwed up somehow. I have a 45
bent whip antenna, standard from Aircraft Spruce, installed on the belly
under the pilot's seat. Standard coax runs from radio to antenna. Center
conductor terminated with a ring terminal and secured onto antenna.
Outer braided conducter terminated at a ring terminal and screwed into a
nutplate on the structure for ground. Any way to test that this is
normal/ok/etc?
Thanks to anyone that might have a suggestion,
Jordan Grant
RV-6 N198G
Done - except for last minute problems and first flight!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jordan Grant <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
Listers:
I have an engine problem - maybe one of you can help. I just did the
first start of my engine 2 weeks ago and tried it again yesterday. Here
are the symptoms:
1) Brand-new XP-360 built by Aerosport Power with Airflow Performance
Fuel Injection, Lightspeed Plasma II+ electronic ignition on the top
(right), impulse-coupled mag on the bottom (left), running standard
100LL. Constant speed prop.
2) Starts up just fine, but runs very rough. Black smoke comes out upon
start. Will run above 1000 rpm, but will quit if I try to idle less than
1000. Runs better when I open the throttle - I got it up to about 1500
rpm when test running, so far. When running, makes a lot of 'popping'
sounds - almost like little backfires, I guess. I'm not smart enough on
engines to know what the sound means.
3) Makes more 'popping' sounds when running on the mag - runs a little
bit (noticeably) better on the electronic ignition, but still rough.
4) The engine was run at the factor before I got it and I have not
changed any settings on the ignition/mags/fuel injection since I got it.
My only theory right now, based on an archive search of the RV list, is
that the idle mixture might be too rich on the Airflow Perfomance. Do
these symptoms sound consistent with that problem? I'm disinclined to
think its an ignition/timing problem, since both ignition systems came
set up by Aerosport and neither one is significantly better than the
other in running the engine.
Thanks for any help you might have,
Jordan Grant
RV-6
Finally done, if the engine would behave...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
On 15 Jan 2006, at 08:59, Jordan Grant wrote:
>
> Listers:
> I have a radio noise problem. I've checked the archives, and I
> can't
> find a similar problem having been discussed on the RV list or the
> AeroElectric list. Here are the symptoms:
>
> 1) When I turn on the master switch, I get noise in my headset that
> emanates from the VHF radio. I know its the VHF radio because the
> noise
> volume can be controlled with the volume knob on the radio. The
> radio is
> an Apollo GX-60. The noise sounds exactly like the squelch is
> turned on
> - just some static. The noise is usually constant, but sometimes goes
> intermittent. The radio frequency does not matter.
>
> 2) I have an ACS2002 engine monitor. The noise is correlated to the
> engine monitor's function. The noise will go away (or go to
> intermittent) when I start the ACS2002 in calibration mode. When I
> return to normal mode, the noise is back. If I pull the fuse for the
> ACS, the noise goes away entirely and does not come back. If I pull
> the
> audo connection d-sub from the back of the ACS screen, there is no
> change at all - still noisy.
>
> 3) This is all with the engine OFF, keyswitch OFF, every other
> accessory
> turned off.
>
> I have 2 theories, based on the very little avionics knowledge that
> I have.
> Theory A) Some sensor on the ACS is causing RF noise. I don't know
> which
> one - I may have to start disconnecting them one at a time (on my
> back,
> under the panel) to try and isolate.
> Theory B) My antenna installation is screwed up somehow. I have a 45
> bent whip antenna, standard from Aircraft Spruce, installed on the
> belly
> under the pilot's seat. Standard coax runs from radio to antenna.
> Center
> conductor terminated with a ring terminal and secured onto antenna.
> Outer braided conducter terminated at a ring terminal and screwed
> into a
> nutplate on the structure for ground. Any way to test that this is
> normal/ok/etc?
>
> Thanks to anyone that might have a suggestion,
It might be instructive to see if you hear the noise in a handheld
radio. That might help figure out whether it is a radiated noise
problem, or something that is conducted through the wiriing or
airframe. If the handheld hears the noise, then it must be radiated
noise from the engine monitor or its sensors. If the handheld
doesn't hear the noise, then it has to be transmitted through the
power lines or grounds. I think.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Beene" <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
Grant,
This sounds like a RFI problem. I saw this problem with an engine monitor
on a friend's airplane. He thought he had a radio problem because he
couldn't hear the tower more than 10 miles out. The RFI was desensitizing
this receiver. He didn't have the engine monitor on a switch so he had not
tried to turn it off. With my handheld radio it was easy to identify the
source.
The noise is usually generated by the CPU clock in the computer (try putting
your radio next to your home computer). After we removed the fuse on the
ACS, the radio worked properly. Some electronics designers do not worry
about electromagnetic compatibility (EMC).
He contacted ACS and they sent some updated cables or some additional
shielding to reduce the problem. You should avoid running the cables from
the radio and engine monitor parallel to each other. These problems are
best fixed during the design with RF bypass capacitors and RF chokes
(torids) around the signals and power leads before they exit a properly
shielded enclosure.
Ken
RV-6A N94kb
RV-4 under construction
> Listers:
> I have a radio noise problem. I've checked the archives, and I can't
> find a similar problem having been discussed on the RV list or the
> AeroElectric list. Here are the symptoms:
>
> 1) When I turn on the master switch, I get noise in my headset that
> emanates from the VHF radio. I know its the VHF radio because the noise
> volume can be controlled with the volume knob on the radio. The radio is
> an Apollo GX-60. The noise sounds exactly like the squelch is turned on
> - just some static. The noise is usually constant, but sometimes goes
> intermittent. The radio frequency does not matter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
>
> Listers:
> I have an engine problem - maybe one of you can help. I
> just did the first start of my engine 2 weeks ago and tried
> it again yesterday. Here are the symptoms:
> 1) Brand-new XP-360 built by Aerosport Power with Airflow
> Performance Fuel Injection,
SNIP
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6
> Finally done, if the engine would behave...
Jordan, the book which comes with the Airflow Performance unit is very
thorough in this regard. You are probably correct in guessing that the idle
mixture is way too rich. Refer to the book. I believe that when Bart runs
the engine, he uses a carb and not the injection system.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 704 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Center Radio Console |
Suzie Q has a center console that I would not know what to do without.
It houses the com radio, transponder, intercom, fuel pressure and fuel
level gauges. It also holds the master radio switch and all radio
breakers. Above all that is my map pocket. It is canted up to face
towards the pilot. (Many I see are just straight up and down.) As you
sit in the front cockpit, the radio appears just below the lower edge of
the panel and the transponder just below that. I have the radio wired to
the stick grip so I can flip-flop channels and select the stand-by
channel without touching the radio. The transponder has an ident button
on the stick. One rarely looks at the intercom and fuel gauges are just
for reference anyway.
Too much looking down? No. One should limit their "looking down",
wherever that is, to about five seconds anyway, regardless what you are
doing.
This whole unit is held in place by three screws and four bolts and
takes about 10 minutes to remove and comes out as a complete unit; easy
for accessing the battery if needed. I have a charging receptacle for
charging the battery without removing it. (I know: you are suppose to
remove the battery before charging it. Just like you always do in your
car...)
I spent a lot of time on the design of my panels (using the PBC method:
poster board cut-outs) and, having flown behind them for many hours,
would not change a thing. I may put a Dynon in some day, but also have
the center of the main panel as a suspended removable sub-panel that I
can easily remove and modify if I find the need.
I can try to put pictures on photo share if I can figure out how that is
done if anyone wants to see it. Or forward them to an email address if
that works better.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
935 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chaztuna(at)adelphia.net |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
Cc: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Bob,
Some of us are using heated seats in our RVs. This makes use of a 60 amp alternator
useful. Also, running an alternator for extended periods close to it's rated
power will tend to shorten it's life. The diodes in the rectifier will be
the items to fail.
I agree with George (gmcjetpilot) that operating an alternator at 50% of rated
load will greatly extend it's life.
Charlie Kuss
---- Oldsfolks(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> What in the world are you hauling in your RV ???? If you have an arc
> welder,then you might need that many amps !!! otherwise come down to earth and
> get a proper sized alternator. I can't imagine anyone needing more than 45
amp
> output in an RV.
> If others can show that more is needed,then do so.
> I have flown with radios,xpndr,strobe/nav lights and 130 watt landing lights
> on and didn't need more than 35 amps,which my alternaror puts out.
> I use a Toyota alternator with 4" pulley.
>
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> Charleston,Arkansas
> Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <erichweaver(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin avionics trays |
In researching my panel, I occcasionally have come across the gripe that the Garmin
avionics trays were non-standard in that they were 6.3 inches wide instead
of 6.25, and thus required the use of washers if installed with other non-Garmin
components. I recently purchased the Garmin SL-40 transceiver and GTX-327
transponder. Measured the trays, and both were 6.25, so it appears that this
issue has been taken care of. Thought I would pass this along to others contemplating
panel choices.
regards
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Center Radio Console |
The photos would be great, Mike if you have the
chance. I've got a preliminary design that requires
me to spend much more money to make it fit (new slim
radios, 2 dynons, etc).
Paul Besing
--- Kosta Lewis wrote:
>
>
> Suzie Q has a center console that I would not know
> what to do without.
> It houses the com radio, transponder, intercom, fuel
> pressure and fuel
> level gauges. It also holds the master radio switch
> and all radio
> breakers. Above all that is my map pocket. It is
> canted up to face
> towards the pilot. (Many I see are just straight up
> and down.) As you
> sit in the front cockpit, the radio appears just
> below the lower edge of
> the panel and the transponder just below that. I
> have the radio wired to
> the stick grip so I can flip-flop channels and
> select the stand-by
> channel without touching the radio. The transponder
> has an ident button
> on the stick. One rarely looks at the intercom and
> fuel gauges are just
> for reference anyway.
>
> Too much looking down? No. One should limit their
> "looking down",
> wherever that is, to about five seconds anyway,
> regardless what you are
> doing.
>
> This whole unit is held in place by three screws and
> four bolts and
> takes about 10 minutes to remove and comes out as a
> complete unit; easy
> for accessing the battery if needed. I have a
> charging receptacle for
> charging the battery without removing it. (I know:
> you are suppose to
> remove the battery before charging it. Just like you
> always do in your
> car...)
>
> I spent a lot of time on the design of my panels
> (using the PBC method:
> poster board cut-outs) and, having flown behind them
> for many hours,
> would not change a thing. I may put a Dynon in some
> day, but also have
> the center of the main panel as a suspended
> removable sub-panel that I
> can easily remove and modify if I find the need.
>
> I can try to put pictures on photo share if I can
> figure out how that is
> done if anyone wants to see it. Or forward them to
> an email address if
> that works better.
>
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> 935 hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
Jordan - be sure the antenna is bolted on tight with a good attachment of
the screen to the ground plane. Jus a thought, Steve.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Radio Noise
>
> Listers:
> I have a radio noise problem. I've checked the archives, and I can't
> find a similar problem having been discussed on the RV list or the
> AeroElectric list. Here are the symptoms:
>
> 1) When I turn on the master switch, I get noise in my headset that
> emanates from the VHF radio. I know its the VHF radio because the noise
> volume can be controlled with the volume knob on the radio. The radio is
> an Apollo GX-60. The noise sounds exactly like the squelch is turned on
> - just some static. The noise is usually constant, but sometimes goes
> intermittent. The radio frequency does not matter.
>
> 2) I have an ACS2002 engine monitor. The noise is correlated to the
> engine monitor's function. The noise will go away (or go to
> intermittent) when I start the ACS2002 in calibration mode. When I
> return to normal mode, the noise is back. If I pull the fuse for the
> ACS, the noise goes away entirely and does not come back. If I pull the
> audo connection d-sub from the back of the ACS screen, there is no
> change at all - still noisy.
>
> 3) This is all with the engine OFF, keyswitch OFF, every other accessory
> turned off.
>
> I have 2 theories, based on the very little avionics knowledge that I
> have.
> Theory A) Some sensor on the ACS is causing RF noise. I don't know which
> one - I may have to start disconnecting them one at a time (on my back,
> under the panel) to try and isolate.
> Theory B) My antenna installation is screwed up somehow. I have a 45
> bent whip antenna, standard from Aircraft Spruce, installed on the belly
> under the pilot's seat. Standard coax runs from radio to antenna. Center
> conductor terminated with a ring terminal and secured onto antenna.
> Outer braided conducter terminated at a ring terminal and screwed into a
> nutplate on the structure for ground. Any way to test that this is
> normal/ok/etc?
>
> Thanks to anyone that might have a suggestion,
>
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 N198G
> Done - except for last minute problems and first flight!
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
> This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System
> on behalf of the London Business School community.
> For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
>
> --
> 14/01/2006
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
One thing to keep in mind while troubleshooting radio noise on the
ground- If you are running off ships power with no charger or power
supply attached, then you are likely at less than the required voltage
for the radio equipment (including the noise-filtering apparatus) to
work properly. With the engine running and the alternator alternating,
your system voltage is around 14V (give or take .5) but with a less than
fully charged battery, with a load, it is down closer to 12V. For
example, the DRE244 intercom (a great unit BTW) requires 12.5V for it's
noise filtering stuff to work, and I had all sorts of noise problems
(mostly EFI related from the Dynon D-10) until I figured this out. I
put a charger on the battery, brought the voltage up and 90% of my noise
problems disappeared instantly. The engine noise took care of the
reamining 10% ;)
Try connecting a battery charger to your battery to bring the voltage
up, ot try it with the engine (and alternator) running.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin avionics trays |
The issue, at least my experience, was that the PS Engineering tray
(PS7000 = SL15) was wider that the "real" UPSAT/Garmin units (SL-30,
SL-70, GX-60 for me) and necessitated spacers for the non-PS units. The
mounting holes spacing (fore-aft) is not the same either but that's
really minor. I don't think the Garmin audio panel (GMA340??) is made by
PS Engineering so it may not have the same issue.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> In researching my panel, I occcasionally have come across the
> gripe that the Garmin avionics trays were non-standard in
> that they were 6.3 inches wide instead of 6.25, and thus
> required the use of washers if installed with other
> non-Garmin components. I recently purchased the Garmin SL-40
> transceiver and GTX-327 transponder. Measured the trays, and
> both were 6.25, so it appears that this issue has been taken
> care of. Thought I would pass this along to others
> contemplating panel choices.
>
> regards
>
> Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
Bob-
My experience with the 35 amp Van's machine is that I get a LV warn light (setpoint
12.5V) after a minute or two of landing lights on in the pattern (2x55 watts),
so I'm not that impressed with its performance. The supplied regulator
from Van's has also treated me to pulsating (maybe 1.5 hz) intensity of my radio
dial lights from day one (7 years now), so I'm ready for a change. The new
and improved electrical system is designed for heated seats and heated pitot,
also.
I came home with the alternator I did b/c it was the only ER alternator in stock
that came close to matching the numbers I went in looking for. If there is
a weight penalty for the extra amps, I'll take it back and wait for an ordered
unit to come in. George has given me some good numbers to track down, but I'm
not ready to abandon the external regualtion philosophy, so that may limit my
search.
-BB
-----Original Message-----
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
What in the world are you hauling in your RV ???? If you have an arc
welder,then you might need that many amps !!! otherwise come down to earth and
get a proper sized alternator. I can't imagine anyone needing more than 45 amp
output in an RV.
If others can show that more is needed,then do so.
I have flown with radios,xpndr,strobe/nav lights and 130 watt landing lights
on and didn't need more than 35 amps,which my alternaror puts out.
I use a Toyota alternator with 4" pulley.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jordan Grant <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
Jeff:
I went troubleshooting today and, of course, there was no trouble! I
just received my super-duper Odyssey battery charger the other day, and
I charged up the battery overnight. This afternoon, there was no noise
on my radio! I think that may have been the problem - just lowish
voltage on the battery. As part of my troubleshooting, I borrowed a
handheld VHF radio and waved it around inside the cockpit. It picked up
a lot of noise! The screen on the ACS2002 seemed to be radiating a fair
amount of it. However, the GX60 was quiet.
If it happens again with a fully charged battery or the alternator
running, I'll get suspicious. Until then, I'm considering it to not be a
problem. I'm glad I put the question out there on the RV List, though -
hopefully the next guy that runs into this will search the archives and
find out the answer.
Thanks a lot to everyone that responded,
Jordan Grant
RV-6 N198G
Ready to fly if only my engine would run...
Jeff Point wrote:
>
>One thing to keep in mind while troubleshooting radio noise on the
>ground- If you are running off ships power with no charger or power
>supply attached, then you are likely at less than the required voltage
>for the radio equipment (including the noise-filtering apparatus) to
>work properly. With the engine running and the alternator alternating,
>your system voltage is around 14V (give or take .5) but with a less than
>fully charged battery, with a load, it is down closer to 12V. For
>example, the DRE244 intercom (a great unit BTW) requires 12.5V for it's
>noise filtering stuff to work, and I had all sorts of noise problems
>(mostly EFI related from the Dynon D-10) until I figured this out. I
>put a charger on the battery, brought the voltage up and 90% of my noise
>problems disappeared instantly. The engine noise took care of the
>reamining 10% ;)
>
>Try connecting a battery charger to your battery to bring the voltage
>up, ot try it with the engine (and alternator) running.
>
>Jeff Point
>RV-6
>Milwaukee
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)speedyquick.net> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
I also had the pulsating radio lights (not to mention a constant ammeter
oscillation) with the solid state regulator from Van's. It never has caused
a problem in 9 years, but while I was under the panel doing an avionics
upgrade I decided to put in a Ford VR166 (which is not current, but there is
a cross-ref part) that I bought for $12.99 at Autozone. No more pulsating,
no more ammeter oscillations.
I also have the 35a alternator, but it never gets below 13.5V at idle.
Maybe your VR is causing that problem too.
Ed Bundy
RV6a - just celebrated its 9th birthday!
>My experience with the 35 amp Van's machine is that I get a LV warn light
(setpoint 12.5V) after a minute or two of landing lights on in the pattern
(2x55 watts), so I'm not that impressed with its performance. The supplied
regulator from Van's has also treated me to pulsating (maybe 1.5 hz)
intensity of my radio dial lights from day one (7 years now), so I'm ready
for a change. The new and improved electrical system is designed for heated
seats and heated pitot, also.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
The supplied regulator from Van's has also treated me to pulsating (maybe
1.5 hz) intensity of my radio dial lights from day one (7 years now),>_-
I had the same problem with my Van's adjustable regulator but after
searching the archives I found the answer. Bad connection or ground. Mine
was a bad connection at the master switch. Once I fixed that the pulsing
went away. As for the low voltage issue I get the same thing with all the
lights on in the pattern <2000rpm.
Scott
===========================================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
Thanks, Ed. that's encouraging news. I have a new VR-301 regualtor to be installed,
which a search of the archives tells me is a valid substitute and blessed
by Bob himself.
I honestly haven't run an amp budget for my proposed upgrades to the RV, but I
have a feeling the heated seats and heated pitot might put a strain on the old
Honda 35 amp machine. Besides, at 550 hrs it's getting long in the tooth! BTW,
my bus voltage is about 14.9 with no load; kinda high.
A review of the Vicic.com.tw site, inputting all crossing #'s for ER/IF alternators
from a site where they make the casings (Google hits) confirms the lack of
availability of under-90 amp machines with external regulation. I might be
better off keeping the one I bought this weekend, unless Niagra or Landoll are
considered as vendors, which I need to do.
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)speedyquick.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
I also had the pulsating radio lights (not to mention a constant ammeter
oscillation) with the solid state regulator from Van's. It never has caused
a problem in 9 years, but while I was under the panel doing an avionics
upgrade I decided to put in a Ford VR166 (which is not current, but there is
a cross-ref part) that I bought for $12.99 at Autozone. No more pulsating,
no more ammeter oscillations.
I also have the 35a alternator, but it never gets below 13.5V at idle.
Maybe your VR is causing that problem too.
Ed Bundy
RV6a - just celebrated its 9th birthday!
>My experience with the 35 amp Van's machine is that I get a LV warn light
(setpoint 12.5V) after a minute or two of landing lights on in the pattern
(2x55 watts), so I'm not that impressed with its performance. The supplied
regulator from Van's has also treated me to pulsating (maybe 1.5 hz)
intensity of my radio dial lights from day one (7 years now), so I'm ready
for a change. The new and improved electrical system is designed for heated
seats and heated pitot, also.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
How old is your battery, & is it known to be in good shape?
(surrender to the inevitable. get an ir)
sportav8r(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>Thanks, Ed. that's encouraging news. I have a new VR-301 regualtor to be installed,
which a search of the archives tells me is a valid substitute and blessed
by Bob himself.
>
>I honestly haven't run an amp budget for my proposed upgrades to the RV, but I
have a feeling the heated seats and heated pitot might put a strain on the old
Honda 35 amp machine. Besides, at 550 hrs it's getting long in the tooth!
BTW, my bus voltage is about 14.9 with no load; kinda high.
>
>A review of the Vicic.com.tw site, inputting all crossing #'s for ER/IF alternators
from a site where they make the casings (Google hits) confirms the lack
of availability of under-90 amp machines with external regulation. I might be
better off keeping the one I bought this weekend, unless Niagra or Landoll are
considered as vendors, which I need to do.
>
>-Bill
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)speedyquick.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
>
>
>I also had the pulsating radio lights (not to mention a constant ammeter
>oscillation) with the solid state regulator from Van's. It never has caused
>a problem in 9 years, but while I was under the panel doing an avionics
>upgrade I decided to put in a Ford VR166 (which is not current, but there is
>a cross-ref part) that I bought for $12.99 at Autozone. No more pulsating,
>no more ammeter oscillations.
>
>I also have the 35a alternator, but it never gets below 13.5V at idle.
>Maybe your VR is causing that problem too.
>
>Ed Bundy
>RV6a - just celebrated its 9th birthday!
>
>
>
>>My experience with the 35 amp Van's machine is that I get a LV warn light
>>
>>
>(setpoint 12.5V) after a minute or two of landing lights on in the pattern
>(2x55 watts), so I'm not that impressed with its performance. The supplied
>regulator from Van's has also treated me to pulsating (maybe 1.5 hz)
>intensity of my radio dial lights from day one (7 years now), so I'm ready
>for a change. The new and improved electrical system is designed for heated
>seats and heated pitot, also.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Need Fuel totalizer with Dynon EMS-D10? |
Anyone flying with the EMS-D10? I know it has fuel
calculations in it. Question for those flying, would
you want a separate fuel totalizer, i.e. fuelchek,
Elect International, etc?
Are you happy with the Dynon's fuel capabilities?
Thanks in advance.
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin avionics trays |
I can verify that it's not "fixed"...doubt that it ever will be
except that maybe new models coming out will be more standardized.
My PS Engineering 8000, GNS480, SL-30, and GTX330 Transponder
had at least one or two of them that were 6.3 while
the others were 6.25. All of it was new this year.
Nothing was a major problem. The biggest problem I had, which
is a tip any GNS480 buyer should remember, is make sure you
mount your GNS480 tray at least flush with the face of your
panel, if not out a couple thousandths. The GNS 480 is
notorious for not seating all the way into it's tray, and your
serial communications won't work. I tried for 2 nights to
get my stuff to talk, and after talking to Stark and getting
that tip, I moved my tray aft a tad and then pushed the radio
in as hard as I could...problem solved.
Tim Olson -- RV-10
Greg Young wrote:
>
> The issue, at least my experience, was that the PS Engineering tray
> (PS7000 = SL15) was wider that the "real" UPSAT/Garmin units (SL-30,
> SL-70, GX-60 for me) and necessitated spacers for the non-PS units. The
> mounting holes spacing (fore-aft) is not the same either but that's
> really minor. I don't think the Garmin audio panel (GMA340??) is made by
> PS Engineering so it may not have the same issue.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
> Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
>
>>
>>In researching my panel, I occcasionally have come across the
>>gripe that the Garmin avionics trays were non-standard in
>>that they were 6.3 inches wide instead of 6.25, and thus
>>required the use of washers if installed with other
>>non-Garmin components. I recently purchased the Garmin SL-40
>>transceiver and GTX-327 transponder. Measured the trays, and
>>both were 6.25, so it appears that this issue has been taken
>>care of. Thought I would pass this along to others
>>contemplating panel choices.
>>
>>regards
>>
>>Erich Weaver
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Instrument install/annunciators |
Those who have been here already...when you put the steam gauges in your
panel, how do you fit the ones with the knobs sticking out of one corner?
For the (United Instruments) altimeter it looks like I won't have a choice
and will have to hog out some of the corner of the panel where the knob goes
(big bump in the case under the knob). However, for the MD200 OBS (VOR/ILS
indicator) and the 2 inch G meter (Falcon Gauge) the knobs have small posts
that would likely fit through the screw hole if the knob were removed before
installing the gauge. Can the knobs on these gauges be removed prior to
installing the gauge and then re-attached afterwords? Or am I just going to
have to make a small slot between the cutout and the screw hole? Also, what
exactly is the bit size used to drill these screw holes? #6 screws???
Annunciator lights, I'd like to find some square ones with the colored
plastic and engraved text that shows what subsystem is having a problem
(commercial airline pilots know them well). I have had some great input
from an RV-6A pilot who rolled his own. I've perused the web quite a while
and haven't found much that might work for my application (mostly round
lampholders with colored lenses but you couldn't really engrave them with
text like I'm wanting). Any suggestions on this one? The only other option
I can see is to use the round lampholders and have engraved text underneath
each one with the subsystem being annunciated. Not the optimum solution but
given what I've found so far, looking more and more viable all the time
(probably simpler and quicker too). Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Gonna fly this spring!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> |
| Subject: | melting the blue plastic from the skin |
OK, I'm ready to cut away the blue plastic to dimple the skin, As I've seen most
people use a cheep solder iron, but when I used it on my practice kit it left
a line mark which doesn't appear to rub out ?
I suppose I may have too much pressure. and I sure when it gets painted no one
will notice,,,, or will I ?
Dan
-8 HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
I'll admit to keeping my batteries too long, but I'm on my second Odyssey and third
battery since completion in 1998. All have held up well as far as I know,
despite the higher than expected voltage flogging. Battery age has never affected
these little issues at all; as others have said, a sub-par regualtor or
more likely a high ohmic connection in the feedback loop are prime suspects.
I'll consider an IR when Bob N. has figured out an external OV protection scheme
that stands up in the lab; until then, my soon to be 20 kilobuck avionics suite
will enjoy a crowbar's constant oversight, thank you very much :-)
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
How old is your battery, & is it known to be in good shape?
(surrender to the inevitable. get an ir)
sportav8r(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>Thanks, Ed. that's encouraging news. I have a new VR-301 regualtor to be
installed, which a search of the archives tells me is a valid substitute and
blessed by Bob himself.
>
>I honestly haven't run an amp budget for my proposed upgrades to the RV, but I
have a feeling the heated seats and heated pitot might put a strain on the old
Honda 35 amp machine. Besides, at 550 hrs it's getting long in the tooth! BTW,
my bus voltage is about 14.9 with no load; kinda high.
>
>A review of the Vicic.com.tw site, inputting all crossing #'s for ER/IF
alternators from a site where they make the casings (Google hits) confirms the
lack of availability of under-90 amp machines with external regulation. I might
be better off keeping the one I bought this weekend, unless Niagra or Landoll
are considered as vendors, which I need to do.
>
>-Bill
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ed Bundy <ebundy(at)speedyquick.net>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
>
>
>I also had the pulsating radio lights (not to mention a constant ammeter
>oscillation) with the solid state regulator from Van's. It never has caused
>a problem in 9 years, but while I was under the panel doing an avionics
>upgrade I decided to put in a Ford VR166 (which is not current, but there is
>a cross-ref part) that I bought for $12.99 at Autozone. No more pulsating,
>no more ammeter oscillations.
>
>I also have the 35a alternator, but it never gets below 13.5V at idle.
>Maybe your VR is causing that problem too.
>
>Ed Bundy
>RV6a - just celebrated its 9th birthday!
>
>
>
>>My experience with the 35 amp Van's machine is that I get a LV warn light
>>
>>
>(setpoint 12.5V) after a minute or two of landing lights on in the pattern
>(2x55 watts), so I'm not that impressed with its performance. The supplied
>regulator from Van's has also treated me to pulsating (maybe 1.5 hz)
>intensity of my radio dial lights from day one (7 years now), so I'm ready
>for a change. The new and improved electrical system is designed for heated
>seats and heated pitot, also.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Instrument install/annunciators |
Here is an option.
http://www.vx-aviation.com/page_2.html#IL-4A,%20IL-12A_more.
Rene' Felker
40322
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Contact Bart or Sue at Aerosport and tell them the symptoms that you are
having. You will probably need to send the servo to Airflow Performance
and Don will check/repair it for you.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 8:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine
>
> Listers:
> I have an engine problem - maybe one of you can help. I
> just did the first start of my engine 2 weeks ago and tried
> it again yesterday. Here are the symptoms:
> 1) Brand-new XP-360 built by Aerosport Power with Airflow
> Performance Fuel Injection,
SNIP
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6
> Finally done, if the engine would behave...
Jordan, the book which comes with the Airflow Performance unit is very
thorough in this regard. You are probably correct in guessing that the
idle
mixture is way too rich. Refer to the book. I believe that when Bart
runs
the engine, he uses a carb and not the injection system.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 704 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Fuel totalizer with Dynon EMS-D10? |
Hi Paul,
I removed the Grand Rapids EIS-4000 w/fuel flow option recently and installed the
Dynon EMS-D10 using the same fuel flow transducer. I am very pleased with
the unit and the fuel flow algorithims/data filters in the EMS-D10 are hands down
much more stable than when hooked to the EIS-4000.
I have asked Dynon to add a "Switch Fuel Tanks" alarm to their fuel page that can
be programmed by the owner (i.e.. switch tanks every 15, 30, 45, or 60 minutes).
The EIS-4000 had such an alarm but I think the guys at Dynon forgot to
put it into the EMS-D10. Very handy feature I used all the time.
I've also asked Dynon to allow the user to select a "Power-Up Page" (i.e I would
have the fuel page come up first upon power-up so I would be reminded to "Add
Fuel" to the fuel totalizer so the fuel flow features would be accurate. I
almost always forget to "add fuel" to the fuel page thus my fuel flow calculations
for endurance would then be inaccurate.
Other than those two 'fixes', I think the Dynon EMS-D10 is the ticket and the fuel
flow is more than adequate. Skip the second instrument.
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A N174JL 135 hrs
www.jacklockamy.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
sportav8r(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I'll admit to keeping my batteries too long, but I'm on my second Odyssey and
third battery since completion in 1998. All have held up well as far as I know,
despite the higher than expected voltage flogging. Battery age has never affected
these little issues at all; as others have said, a sub-par regualtor or
more likely a high ohmic connection in the feedback loop are prime suspects.
>
>I'll consider an IR when Bob N. has figured out an external OV protection scheme
that stands up in the lab; until then, my soon to be 20 kilobuck avionics suite
will enjoy a crowbar's constant oversight, thank you very much :-)
>
>-Stormy
>
The quick drop in voltage when loaded just sounded a bit suspicious. I'd
agree that it's probably either the regulator or wiring issues, as
others have suggested.
I haven't followed every detail of the er/ir debate, since I've run an
ir successfully for over 10 years, but the only downside I've noticed to
an OV protected ir is the chance of damaging the alternator if the B
lead is disconnected under load. This shouldn't happen if you operate
the system like a car. The only time the B lead would get disconnected
under load is if the alternator has already failed in an overvoltage
mode, to which I respond, 'why do I care if I damage a broken
alternator?' Risk to avionics should approach zero, assuming the OV
protection relay does its job.
The upside to ir's, for me at least, is that almost all those potential
wiring problems go away. The internal regulator is designed to operate
in the heat environment of the alternator itself, so as long as you
don't block airflow to the alternator, it should be operating in its
design environment. Environment is an unknown variable with an er,
unless you do the same kind of under-hood testing that car makers do.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: melting the blue plastic from the skin |
Dan wrote:
>
>OK, I'm ready to cut away the blue plastic to dimple the skin, As I've seen most
people use a cheep solder iron, but when I used it on my practice kit it left
a line mark which doesn't appear to rub out ?
> I suppose I may have too much pressure. and I sure when it gets painted no
one will notice,,,, or will I ?
>
> Dan
> -8 HS
>
Just be sure that the tip doesn't have a 'burr' on it; try polishing it
lightly. It will probably still leave a line. Rub the line with a
scotchbrite pad & see if the line disappears. You'll need to scotchbrite
the skin before painting, anyway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | melting the blue plastic from the skin |
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle(at)hq.InclineSoftworks.com> |
I rounded the tip of the soldering iron with the scotch brite wheel.
Kind of a bullet shape.
Then I used a light tough - just score the plastic - don't try to burn
through it.
Then pull it off. It will break along the scored lines and will not
leave a mark on the skins.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 10:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: melting the blue plastic from the skin
OK, I'm ready to cut away the blue plastic to dimple the skin, As I've
seen most people use a cheep solder iron, but when I used it on my
practice kit it left a line mark which doesn't appear to rub out ?
I suppose I may have too much pressure. and I sure when it gets
painted no one will notice,,,, or will I ?
Dan
-8 HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: melting the blue plastic from the skin |
Hi Dan-
If you are going all the way thru the plastic, you are pressing too hard-
just a light scoring of the plastic does the trick. If you have a piece with the
plastic on it that you can practice on, try various pressures/speeds until
you get a feel for it. Make sure the iron has no sharp edges on it- nicely
smoothed on Scotchbrite wheel. Running the iron down an aluminum yardstick as
a
straightedge helped a bit too. As far as to remove or not remove, my late
version -6A had mostly clear plastic on it, and it came off pretty easily even
after 4 years (wings) see:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5193
I had removed the plastic from the forward side skins on installation, and
had a lot of scratches that needed some clean-up, but don't really think it
would have made a lot of difference, particularly if you are painting. If doing
a
polished plane, YMMV. On parts stored long-term (wings, emp), I'm glad I
left it on and would again. Had very minimal fusiliform corrosion around the
edges of maybe two parts- easy to clean-up.
Have fun!
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin avionics trays |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
I just acquired an all Garmin stack - GMA 340, GTX 327, SL40 -
all 3 trays are exactly 6.25"
g
>
>
> I can verify that it's not "fixed"...doubt that it ever will be
> except that maybe new models coming out will be more standardized.
>
> My PS Engineering 8000, GNS480, SL-30, and GTX330 Transponder
> had at least one or two of them that were 6.3 while
> the others were 6.25. All of it was new this year.
> Nothing was a major problem. The biggest problem I had, which
> is a tip any GNS480 buyer should remember, is make sure you
> mount your GNS480 tray at least flush with the face of your
> panel, if not out a couple thousandths. The GNS 480 is
> notorious for not seating all the way into it's tray, and your
> serial communications won't work. I tried for 2 nights to
> get my stuff to talk, and after talking to Stark and getting
> that tip, I moved my tray aft a tad and then pushed the radio
> in as hard as I could...problem solved.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10
>
>
>
> Greg Young wrote:
> >
> > The issue, at least my experience, was that the PS Engineering tray
> > (PS7000 = SL15) was wider that the "real" UPSAT/Garmin units (SL-30,
> > SL-70, GX-60 for me) and necessitated spacers for the non-PS units. The
> > mounting holes spacing (fore-aft) is not the same either but that's
> > really minor. I don't think the Garmin audio panel (GMA340??) is made by
> > PS Engineering so it may not have the same issue.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> > RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
> > Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>In researching my panel, I occcasionally have come across the
> >>gripe that the Garmin avionics trays were non-standard in
> >>that they were 6.3 inches wide instead of 6.25, and thus
> >>required the use of washers if installed with other
> >>non-Garmin components. I recently purchased the Garmin SL-40
> >>transceiver and GTX-327 transponder. Measured the trays, and
> >>both were 6.25, so it appears that this issue has been taken
> >>care of. Thought I would pass this along to others
> >>contemplating panel choices.
> >>
> >>regards
> >>
> >>Erich Weaver
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
So the reason we don't have external OV protection schemes on the AeroElectric
platform is due to load-dump concers about, as you say, an already-damaged alternator?
I wasn't following tha
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
sportav8r(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I'll admit to keeping my batteries too long, but I'm on my second Odyssey and
third battery since completion in 1998. All have held up well as far as I know,
despite the higher than expected voltage flogging. Battery age has never
affected these little issues at all; as others have said, a sub-par regualtor or
more likely a high ohmic connection in the feedback loop are prime suspects.
>
>I'll consider an IR when Bob N. has figured out an external OV protection
scheme that stands up in the lab; until then, my soon to be 20 kilobuck avionics
suite will enjoy a crowbar's constant oversight, thank you very much :-)
>
>-Stormy
>
The quick drop in voltage when loaded just sounded a bit suspicious. I'd
agree that it's probably either the regulator or wiring issues, as
others have suggested.
I haven't followed every detail of the er/ir debate, since I've run an
ir successfully for over 10 years, but the only downside I've noticed to
an OV protected ir is the chance of damaging the alternator if the B
lead is disconnected under load. This shouldn't happen if you operate
the system like a car. The only time the B lead would get disconnected
under load is if the alternator has already failed in an overvoltage
mode, to which I respond, 'why do I care if I damage a broken
alternator?' Risk to avionics should approach zero, assuming the OV
protection relay does its job.
The upside to ir's, for me at least, is that almost all those potential
wiring problems go away. The internal regulator is designed to operate
in the heat environment of the alternator itself, so as long as you
don't block airflow to the alternator, it should be operating in its
design environment. Environment is an unknown variable with an er,
unless you do the same kind of under-hood testing that car makers do.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
-----Original Message-----
From: Sport AV8R
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
Charlie-
was it only to protect already-failed alternators from load-dump that Bob N. withdrew
his OVP schemes from the List? I wasn't following that debate closely
while it was raging.
If that's all that was at stake, you're right that I might be well-served to employ
his old crowbar design and go with an IR in a size and capacity more suited
to my needs.
Thanks for any clarification you can offer.
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
sportav8r(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I'll admit to keeping my batteries too long, but I'm on my second Odyssey and
third battery since completion in 1998. All have held up well as far as I know,
despite the higher than expected voltage flogging. Battery age has never
affected these little issues at all; as others have said, a sub-par regualtor or
more likely a high ohmic connection in the feedback loop are prime suspects.
>
>I'll consider an IR when Bob N. has figured out an external OV protection
scheme that stands up in the lab; until then, my soon to be 20 kilobuck avionics
suite will enjoy a crowbar's constant oversight, thank you very much :-)
>
>-Stormy
>
The quick drop in voltage when loaded just sounded a bit suspicious. I'd
agree that it's probably either the regulator or wiring issues, as
others have suggested.
I haven't followed every detail of the er/ir debate, since I've run an
ir successfully for over 10 years, but the only downside I've noticed to
an OV protected ir is the chance of damaging the alternator if the B
lead is disconnected under load. This shouldn't happen if you operate
the system like a car. The only time the B lead would get disconnected
under load is if the alternator has already failed in an overvoltage
mode, to which I respond, 'why do I care if I damage a broken
alternator?' Risk to avionics should approach zero, assuming the OV
protection relay does its job.
The upside to ir's, for me at least, is that almost all those potential
wiring problems go away. The internal regulator is designed to operate
in the heat environment of the alternator itself, so as long as you
don't block airflow to the alternator, it should be operating in its
design environment. Environment is an unknown variable with an er,
unless you do the same kind of under-hood testing that car makers do.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
sportav8r(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Sport AV8R
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.co
>Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
>
>
>
> Charlie-
>
>was it only to protect already-failed alternators from load-dump that Bob N. withdrew
his OVP schemes from the List? I wasn't following that debate closely
while it was raging.
>
>If that's all that was at stake, you're right that I might be well-served to employ
his old crowbar design and go with an IR in a size and capacity more suited
to my needs.
>
>Thanks for any clarification you can offer.
>
>-Bill
>
My read was that some were trying to use a traditional split master,
like most certified a/c. This would allow the electrical load (possibly
heavy load) to be active when they switched off the B lead. This 'load
dump' would allow the voltage output of the alternator to spike upward
to an extreme level before the internal regulator could control it, with
the potential of overvoltage damaging the internal electronics within
the alternator. Again, my read was that this was an alternator failure
occurring because of operator actions, not system faults. Even if this
happens, the protection relay should be open, protecting valuable avionics.
Of course, the same sequence of events can happen if the regulator has
failed, allowing voltage to rise, causing the OV relay to open. This is
the case I was talking about when I said 'why do I care?'
There is apparently some small chance of internal fire in the alternator
(remember that there is not much to burn inside the case of an
alternator). I suspect that this might be the reason for withdrawing the
OV-disconnect relay scheme.
Why not ask a direct question of Bob on the aeroelectric list about
whether this was the true reason for withdrawing the design? Frame the
question something like, "If I don't use a split master & 'load dump'
can only occur from the OV relay opening due to an existing OV
condition, is there any reason not to use the OV relay design with a
'one wire' internally regulated alternator?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jordan Grant <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
For the archives:
Jordan,
We have a filter that is standard equipment on our current systems but you
may have purchased yours before we started installing them in every unit.
Please see the attached document and verify that you do or do not have the
clamp filter shown in the picture. If you don't have one I will be happy to
send you a filter at no charge.
Let me know after you've checked for the filter if I need to send you one
and where.
Thanks,
Ken Chard
Advanced Flight Systems, Inc.
10714 S. Township Rd
Suite B
Canby, OR 97013
503-263-0037 phone
503-263-1163 fax
www.Advanced-Flight-Systems.com
www.Angle-of-Attack.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Jordan Grant [mailto:gra9933(at)bellsouth.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 5:36 PM
Subject: Radio Noise
Hello,
I am having a problem that I'm hoping you can help me out with. I am
getting radio static noise through my VHF radio that I think is related to
my ACS2002 engine monitor. I didn't orginally have any problems when I
started testing my plane - but then it cropped up after doing some work. It
sounds just like the squelch is turned up on the radio. I think its related
to the ACS2002 because the noise will go away (or at least dramatically
decrease) when I start the ACS in calibration mode, and come back when I
return to normal mode. Also, the noise will go away entirely if I pull the
fuse for the engine monitor. The noise stays when I pull the audio
connection wires out of the back of the ACS screen module.
Have you had any complaints about noise? Anything I should check?
Thanks for your help,
Jordan Grant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jordan Grant <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
For the archives:
I adjusted my fuel mixture today and the engine is now purring like a
kitten!! As it turns out, the engine was not running rich, it was
running too lean! I turned the adjustment about 1/2 turn (2 or 3 flats)
to the rich side of where it was when I received it. The engine started
right up and ran very nicely. Another flat to the rich side and it would
satisfy the 50 rpm rise test when pulling the mixture out.
My airplane is now ready to go fly.
Jordan Grant
RV-6 N198G
Ready to fly, just need to do weight/balance, and go fly it!!
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
>Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 8:57 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Listers:
>> I have an engine problem - maybe one of you can help. I
>>just did the first start of my engine 2 weeks ago and tried
>>it again yesterday. Here are the symptoms:
>>1) Brand-new XP-360 built by Aerosport Power with Airflow
>>Performance Fuel Injection,
>>
>>
>
> SNIP
>
>
>
>>Jordan Grant
>>RV-6
>>Finally done, if the engine would behave...
>>
>>
>
>Jordan, the book which comes with the Airflow Performance unit is very
>thorough in this regard. You are probably correct in guessing that the
>idle
>mixture is way too rich. Refer to the book. I believe that when Bart
>runs
>the engine, he uses a carb and not the injection system.
>
>Alex Peterson
>RV6-A N66AP 704 hours
>Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Don't forget to consider your altitude.
Assuming your in Goldsboro, NC your at sea level. But for others at
altitude, you would need to consider this in your adjustment. 50rmp rise
would not be enough if set in Denver and flown to Goldsboro, unless you
have a great best glide.
Best,
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jordan Grant
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine
For the archives:
I adjusted my fuel mixture today and the engine is now purring like a
kitten!! As it turns out, the engine was not running rich, it was
running too lean! I turned the adjustment about 1/2 turn (2 or 3 flats)
to the rich side of where it was when I received it. The engine started
right up and ran very nicely. Another flat to the rich side and it would
satisfy the 50 rpm rise test when pulling the mixture out.
My airplane is now ready to go fly.
Jordan Grant
RV-6 N198G
Ready to fly, just need to do weight/balance, and go fly it!!
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
>Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 8:57 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Listers:
>> I have an engine problem - maybe one of you can help. I
>>just did the first start of my engine 2 weeks ago and tried
>>it again yesterday. Here are the symptoms:
>>1) Brand-new XP-360 built by Aerosport Power with Airflow
>>Performance Fuel Injection,
>>
>>
>
> SNIP
>
>
>
>>Jordan Grant
>>RV-6
>>Finally done, if the engine would behave...
>>
>>
>
>Jordan, the book which comes with the Airflow Performance unit is very
>thorough in this regard. You are probably correct in guessing that the
>idle
>mixture is way too rich. Refer to the book. I believe that when Bart
>runs
>the engine, he uses a carb and not the injection system.
>
>Alex Peterson
>RV6-A N66AP 704 hours
>Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jordan Grant <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Radio Noise w/ Engine Monitor ACS2002 ACS2003 |
For the archives, this time with a subject line that makes sense.
>Jordan,
>
>We have a filter that is standard equipment on our current systems but you
>may have purchased yours before we started installing them in every unit.
>Please see the attached document and verify that you do or do not have the
>clamp filter shown in the picture. If you don't have one I will be happy to
>send you a filter at no charge.
>
>Let me know after you've checked for the filter if I need to send you one
>and where.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ken Chard
>Advanced Flight Systems, Inc.
>10714 S. Township Rd
>Suite B
>Canby, OR 97013
>503-263-0037 phone
>503-263-1163 fax
>www.Advanced-Flight-Systems.com
>www.Angle-of-Attack.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jordan Grant [mailto:gra9933(at)bellsouth.net]
>Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 5:36 PM
>To: info@advanced-flight-systems.com
>Subject: Radio Noise
>
>Hello,
> I am having a problem that I'm hoping you can help me out with. I am
>getting radio static noise through my VHF radio that I think is related to
>my ACS2002 engine monitor. I didn't orginally have any problems when I
>started testing my plane - but then it cropped up after doing some work. It
>sounds just like the squelch is turned up on the radio. I think its related
>to the ACS2002 because the noise will go away (or at least dramatically
>decrease) when I start the ACS in calibration mode, and come back when I
>return to normal mode. Also, the noise will go away entirely if I pull the
>fuse for the engine monitor. The noise stays when I pull the audio
>connection wires out of the back of the ACS screen module.
> Have you had any complaints about noise? Anything I should check?
>
>Thanks for your help,
>
>Jordan Grant
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Noise w/ Engine Monitor ACS2002 ACS2003 |
Photos of the ACS2002 (now AF-2500) noise filter installation here:
http://www.rvproject.com/20040207.html
2nd and 3rd photos down (sorry, crummy photos, but you get the idea).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (774 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 3:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Radio Noise w/ Engine Monitor ACS2002 ACS2003
>
> For the archives, this time with a subject line that makes sense.
>
>>Jordan,
>>
>>We have a filter that is standard equipment on our current systems but you
>>may have purchased yours before we started installing them in every unit.
>>Please see the attached document and verify that you do or do not have the
>>clamp filter shown in the picture. If you don't have one I will be happy
>>to
>>send you a filter at no charge.
>>
>>Let me know after you've checked for the filter if I need to send you one
>>and where.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Ken Chard
>>Advanced Flight Systems, Inc.
>>10714 S. Township Rd
>>Suite B
>>Canby, OR 97013
>>503-263-0037 phone
>>503-263-1163 fax
>>www.Advanced-Flight-Systems.com
>>www.Angle-of-Attack.com
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Jordan Grant [mailto:gra9933(at)bellsouth.net]
>>Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 5:36 PM
>>To: info@advanced-flight-systems.com
>>Subject: Radio Noise
>>
>>Hello,
>> I am having a problem that I'm hoping you can help me out with. I am
>>getting radio static noise through my VHF radio that I think is related to
>>my ACS2002 engine monitor. I didn't orginally have any problems when I
>>started testing my plane - but then it cropped up after doing some work.
>>It
>>sounds just like the squelch is turned up on the radio. I think its
>>related
>>to the ACS2002 because the noise will go away (or at least dramatically
>>decrease) when I start the ACS in calibration mode, and come back when I
>>return to normal mode. Also, the noise will go away entirely if I pull the
>>fuse for the engine monitor. The noise stays when I pull the audio
>>connection wires out of the back of the ACS screen module.
>> Have you had any complaints about noise? Anything I should check?
>>
>>Thanks for your help,
>>
>>Jordan Grant
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Need Fuel totalizer with Dynon EMS-D10? |
Pictures? What about the rest of the wiring and the different sized holes
in the panel? I currently have the EIS4000 too.....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jacklockamy [mailto:jacklockamy(at)verizon.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 9:46 AM
> To: RV List
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Need Fuel totalizer with Dynon EMS-D10?
>
>
> Hi Paul,
>
> I removed the Grand Rapids EIS-4000 w/fuel flow option
> recently and installed the Dynon EMS-D10 using the same fuel
> flow transducer. I am very pleased with the unit and the
> fuel flow algorithims/data filters in the EMS-D10 are hands
> down much more stable than when hooked to the EIS-4000.
>
> I have asked Dynon to add a "Switch Fuel Tanks" alarm to
> their fuel page that can be programmed by the owner (i.e..
> switch tanks every 15, 30, 45, or 60 minutes). The EIS-4000
> had such an alarm but I think the guys at Dynon forgot to put
> it into the EMS-D10. Very handy feature I used all the time.
>
> I've also asked Dynon to allow the user to select a "Power-Up
> Page" (i.e I would have the fuel page come up first upon
> power-up so I would be reminded to "Add Fuel" to the fuel
> totalizer so the fuel flow features would be accurate. I
> almost always forget to "add fuel" to the fuel page thus my
> fuel flow calculations for endurance would then be inaccurate.
>
> Other than those two 'fixes', I think the Dynon EMS-D10 is
> the ticket and the fuel flow is more than adequate. Skip the
> second instrument.
>
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> RV-7A N174JL 135 hrs
> www.jacklockamy.com
>
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin avionics trays |
I have the Garmin 340 audio panel, 430 GPS, SL40 comm, and 330S transponder. I
purchased only the trays many months before I needed the radios. (why burn the
warranty on the bench!!) I put the trays together, lining them up face down.
The SL40 is slightly narrower but not a big deal. I did add some shims between
the tray and the support piece used to fasten the trays together.
After I got the radios and installed them I noticed all of the Garmin stuff lined
up perfect. The SL40 however was inset about 3/32." Also not a big deal but
I would have liked to have them all perfectly lined up. Nobody else has noticed.
If you don't have the radios my suggestion would be to place a 3/32" shim on the
front of the SL40 or SL30 tray to get proper alignment.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
RV-7 N717EE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vans RV Orndorff Construction Tapes for sale |
| From: | "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick(at)cox.net> |
I just listed the tapes that follow on Ebay if anyone is interested.
Set of RV construction tapes from George Orndorff
Aircraft Sheet Metal Tools - 1 volume
RV6/8 Empennage Construction - 2 volumes
RV 6 Fuselage Construction - 3 volumes
RV 6 Finishing Kit Construction - 3 Volumes
RV Aircraft Systems - 2 Volumes
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4599#4599
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn8879_939.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan(at)hotmail.com> |
When looking up at %HP tables, should I use OAT or Carb Temp?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Burns" <burnsm(at)cox.net> |
AOT for sure.
Mark
>>When looking up at %HP tables, should I use OAT or Carb Temp?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Burns" <burnsm(at)cox.net> |
I meant to say "OAT for sure", on my previous reply not (AOT)
I hate it when it does that,
Mark
When looking up at %HP tables, should I use OAT or Carb Temp?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Newbie fluting question |
| From: | David Karlsberg <claypride(at)hotmail.com> |
1. Debur or flute first?
2. Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar?
Thanks,
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Newbie fluting question |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Karlsberg
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 9:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Newbie fluting question
1. Debur or flute first? either one is fine
2. Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar? no this one does not
need to be fluted
Thanks,
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie fluting question |
David,
I have found it easier to debur first, before fluting. That way you are
deburring a straight edge, which is easier. In general, you flute when
there is a curve, straight edges do not need fluting.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Karlsberg" <claypride(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 12:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Newbie fluting question
>
> 1. Debur or flute first?
>
> 2. Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar?
>
> Thanks,
> David
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 wing tips for sale |
Hi all,
I have a friend that has some new, undrilled, RV-6, flat top wing tips for sale.
His name is Dave and can be reached at 856-447-0269.
Thanks ,
Paul
RV8QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 Fuselage Jig Wanted. |
I would like to know if anyone has an RV6 fuselage jig that they are willing to
part with. I live in Southern NJ, and am about to start the fuselage construction
and thought it might save some time to get one somebody was finished with.
Call Dave at 856-447-0269 if you can help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Glueing canopies |
Hi All-
Jamestown Distributors is having a sale on the Sika products used to glue
canopies on. See http://www.jamestowndistributors.com.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie fluting question |
David,
1 Debur first. It will be very difficult to deburr after adding fluting
crimps. The fluting will not require the edges to be deburred again.
2 Fluting is generally only required on the long side flanges. The spars
mate to the "short" front & rear edges of the ribs. If required, fluting
will not hurt the short sides, providing you do not place a flute at the
same point a rivet hole is required. This rule holds true everywhere.
Charlie Kuss
>
>1. Debur or flute first?
>
>2. Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar?
>
>Thanks,
>David
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Glen,
Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
Charlie Kuss
>
>Hi All-
>
>Jamestown Distributors is having a sale on the Sika products used to glue
>canopies on. See http://www.jamestowndistributors.com.
>
>Glen Matejcek
>aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
On 5:29:13 2006-01-17 Charlie Kuss wrote:
> Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
>From an email to this list, in November of 2004 (the Matronics search
engine is your friend):
---
Hi Mickey,
I purchased the Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner, and the Sika
209 primer from Jamestown Distributors.
Their phone number is 800 423-0030 (also 401 253-3840) . They are a boat
builder supply store located in Rhode Island.
I have had good service from them, and they sell this stuff in less than case
lots. They also take credit card orders
over the phone.
They also have a web page www.jamestowndistributors.com
Because some of these items are flammable they have to be shipped by ground
so it could take a while to receive depending
upon where you live.
If you get some let me know what you think about it.
Jim Ellis
finishing canopy
RV9-A tip up
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
I used 295, the cleaner which leaves a film (adhesion promoter), and the
black primer. I can grab the edge of the canopy and shake the whole
airplane. If you are patient and careful with it, you will have great
results with the sikaflex process. Having done it once I wouldn't do it any
other way, as others have said.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On 1/17/06, Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
>
> Glen,
> Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >
> >Hi All-
> >
> >Jamestown Distributors is having a sale on the Sika products used to glue
> >canopies on. See http://www.jamestowndistributors.com.
> >
> >Glen Matejcek
> >aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Bob J wrote:
>
>I used 295, the cleaner which leaves a film (adhesion promoter), and the
>black primer. I can grab the edge of the canopy and shake the whole
>airplane. If you are patient and careful with it, you will have great
>results with the sikaflex process. Having done it once I wouldn't do it any
>other way, as others have said.
>
>Regards,
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
>
>
If I were doing it again, I would glue mine. I got a crack in mine with
the pop rivets. There is no real precise way of knowing how much
pressure the rivet will pop at and if it goes too much, it can crack the
canopy like mine did.
"normally" not a problem, but mine was well fitted and it pulled too
hard. I almost knew it was going to happen when I was pulling the
rivet. luckily the crack is under the top piece of aluminum and runs
from one hole to another and it is practically invisble.. There are
probably some out there that have cracks between holes that don't even
know it because they are hidden.
Phil in Illinois
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Richter" <richterrbb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Glueing canopies |
Guys, while we're on the subject, does anyone have any data on the weight
penalty, if any, of gluing as apposed to riveting? There's the obvious
advantage of less probability of cracking, but for some (those in warmer
climes) that's less of a concern.
Thanks!
Randy Richter
-7QB in embryonic stage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob J
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
I used 295, the cleaner which leaves a film (adhesion promoter), and the
black primer. I can grab the edge of the canopy and shake the whole
airplane. If you are patient and careful with it, you will have great
results with the sikaflex process. Having done it once I wouldn't do it any
other way, as others have said.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
>If I were doing it again, I would glue mine. I got a crack in mine with
>the pop rivets. There is no real precise way of knowing how much
>pressure the rivet will pop at and if it goes too much, it can crack the
>canopy like mine did.
Another alternative is using rivnuts. With those you can apply less
pressure than pop rivets. Maybe even a little glue too.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
That sure seems sensitive. I can turn my Bendix injector full turns will
little change. Maybe mine is screwed up.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine
>
> For the archives:
>
> I adjusted my fuel mixture today and the engine is now purring like a
> kitten!! As it turns out, the engine was not running rich, it was
> running too lean! I turned the adjustment about 1/2 turn (2 or 3 flats)
> to the rich side of where it was when I received it. The engine started
> right up and ran very nicely. Another flat to the rich side and it would
> satisfy the 50 rpm rise test when pulling the mixture out.
>
> My airplane is now ready to go fly.
>
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 N198G
> Ready to fly, just need to do weight/balance, and go fly it!!
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
>>Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 8:57 AM
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Listers:
>>> I have an engine problem - maybe one of you can help. I
>>>just did the first start of my engine 2 weeks ago and tried
>>>it again yesterday. Here are the symptoms:
>>>1) Brand-new XP-360 built by Aerosport Power with Airflow
>>>Performance Fuel Injection,
>>>
>>>
>>
>> SNIP
>>
>>
>>
>>>Jordan Grant
>>>RV-6
>>>Finally done, if the engine would behave...
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Jordan, the book which comes with the Airflow Performance unit is very
>>thorough in this regard. You are probably correct in guessing that the
>>idle
>>mixture is way too rich. Refer to the book. I believe that when Bart
>>runs
>>the engine, he uses a carb and not the injection system.
>>
>>Alex Peterson
>>RV6-A N66AP 704 hours
>>Maple Grove, MN
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Newbie fluting question |
1. Debur first, then flute. Otherwise your deburring tool will snag on the
flutes.
2. Do not flute the flange that attaches to the spar. Wrong axis (flutting
the top and bottom flanges straightens the rib parallel to the chord line).
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Karlsberg
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 12:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Newbie fluting question
1. Debur or flute first?
2. Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar?
Thanks,
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | FS: Strong parachute |
For Sale: Strong Para-Cushion Seat 304 emergency parachute. This chute
was used for the flight testing of two RVs (never jumped), and is in
perfect condition. It fits great in the front seats of the RV-8 and the
RV-4. It's navy blue with gray trim and comes with its original Strong
carry bag.
I have no use for it at the moment and would like to see it go to a good
home. The price for a new one is $1545. The first offer of $1300 will
take mine and I'll pay for shipping in the lower 48.
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB (sold, and sorely missed...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lowell lemay" <llemay1(at)austin.rr.com> |
Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp on a new Mattituck
O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have plugged most holes..placed horizontal flanges
on top inside of plenum near the split in the cyl heads, and cut off 1
inch across the middle bottom of the under cowling. Started with over 425 on
# 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them down to about 380 with 55 F OAT. Will need
more room when it gets hot...........Now have 40 hours and consider it broken
in...Lowell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Clark <jclarkmail(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CYL high temp |
Lowell ...
Are cylinders 1 & 2 extra cool?
If so, maybe an air dam in from of them will divert some of the cooling air
to 3 & 4.
James
On 1/17/06, lowell lemay wrote:
>
>
> Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp on a new
> Mattituck O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have plugged most holes..placed
> horizontal flanges on top inside of plenum near the split in the cyl heads,
> and cut off 1 inch across the middle bottom of the under cowling. Started
> with over 425 on # 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them down to about 380 with
> 55 F OAT. Will need more room when it gets hot...........Now have 40 hours
> and consider it broken in...Lowell
>
>
--
This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
james(at)nextupventures.com .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie fluting question |
Subject: Newbie fluting question
From: David Karlsberg <claypride(at)hotmail.com>
>1. Debur or flute first?
Debur first. In fact make a production line. Do all you deburring first on all
the parts you are working with at the time, than do all the fluting. Save time.
It is easier to debur with a straight flange than one with flutes but it can
be done. Usually after debur, flute I may go over the flange with the belt
sander or vixen file to even the flange out sometimes to make a the flange even
width, but this is not necessary.
>2. Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar?
No, when sheet metal is bent in a straight line fluting is not usually needed.
If there is a curved surface and a flange than flutes are usually needed. If
the rib is not flat across the spar flange it should be so small as not not make
a difference.
Go slow and even and flute as little as possible, you can always squeeze or or
tap out over fluting but you usually want to slowly work up to the point of
straight with out over doing it. The more curved the flange the deeper the flutes.
Get and use good quality flute pliers, the cheap ones and ones that make wide
flutes suck. Check Avery or Cleaveland tools.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/home.asp
---------------------------------
Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CYL high temp |
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Make sure you have at least a 1/8" gap behind the #3 cylinder to allow air
to flow between the baffling and the cylinder. If you don't, no air will
flow on the back side of the head. Don't know why you have trouble with
#4.
Also, be sure the baffles on the underside of the cylinders are up tight
against the cylinder fins.
lowell lemay said:
>
> Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp on a new
> Mattituck O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have plugged most
> holes..placed horizontal flanges on top inside of plenum near the split in
> the cyl heads, and cut off 1 inch across the middle bottom of the under
> cowling. Started with over 425 on # 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them
> down to about 380 with 55 F OAT. Will need more room when it gets
> hot...........Now have 40 hours and consider it broken in...Lowell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CYL high temp |
You should also check the cooling fins in the area around the spark plugs.
On my TMX last year, I found some of them filled up with some sort of slag
or manufacturing stuff. (I could not see through when shining a light on
the other side so that air could flow through) I had to drill through it
and file it out using a real small file. Also putting a washer behind the
#3 cylinder to create a gap between the cylinder and the baffle is a good
thing to do.
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
>
> Make sure you have at least a 1/8" gap behind the #3 cylinder to allow air
> to flow between the baffling and the cylinder. If you don't, no air will
> flow on the back side of the head. Don't know why you have trouble with
> #4.
> Also, be sure the baffles on the underside of the cylinders are up tight
> against the cylinder fins.
>
> lowell lemay said:
>>
>> Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp on a new
>> Mattituck O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have plugged most
>> holes..placed horizontal flanges on top inside of plenum near the split
>> in
>> the cyl heads, and cut off 1 inch across the middle bottom of the under
>> cowling. Started with over 425 on # 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them
>> down to about 380 with 55 F OAT. Will need more room when it gets
>> hot...........Now have 40 hours and consider it broken in...Lowell
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp
> on a new Mattituck O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have
> plugged most holes..placed horizontal flanges on top inside
> of plenum near the split in the cyl heads, and cut off 1 inch
> across the middle bottom of the under cowling. Started with
> over 425 on # 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them down to
> about 380 with 55 F OAT. Will need more room when it gets
> hot...........Now have 40 hours and consider it broken in...Lowell
Do you have a MP gauge and fuel flow gauge? Temps are dramatically affected
by subtle mixture changes. Do you have EGT's on all four exhausts? If you
have all this equipment, you can do a graph of fuel flow vs EGT's. This
might identify if the fuel/air charge is somewhat balanced (see where the
peaks are relative to one another). Do you have EI or FI? If things are
balanced, you might be able to run LOP, which will cool the cylinders by
about 40 to 50 degrees F.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 705 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin Avionics Trays |
Ok folks ya got my attention:
Since I'm just about to mount my trays I have a few questions. I bought an
Apollo (UPS Aviation Technologies) stack (Audio, SL-30, GX-65 and SL-70)
about a year or two before they merged with Garmin. Now I'm finally
finishing the panel and about to install the trays. My ruler says that 3 of
the trays are exactly 6 1/4 inches wide. The audio panel tray however
(SL-10MS, actually a PS Engineering PMA 6000 with Apollo bezel), is about
1/32 wider. So....we been discussing the 6.25 vs 6.3 inch width issue here
and I obviously can't install the mounting rails at 6.25 inches apart or I'm
not going to be able to fit the audio panel in.
What has everyone been doing for mounting rails for these trays? My plan is
to use 1/16 aluminum angle (flush) riveted to the back of the instrument
panel cutout at the tray's width apart. Is this a good plan or do you
recommend doing something else (I already looked at Radio Rax, too spendy)?
Is there a standard distance between the two rails that will allow me to add
new radio technology later? If I make the rails 6.3 inches apart do I just
add shims between the rails and the other (6.25 inch) trays? What do the
avionics shops do? How do I mount the trays to the rail? I see two holes
in the front and back (sides) of the trays, does one just match drill the
rails to these holes and install screws and nuts? Do I need to use a flush
head screw inside the tray to allow the radios to slide in? Or....is there
a special fastener I use here?
Tray position forward and aft. I heard some rumblings about the 480 not
seating. Are we trying to get the back of the bezels to just touch the
surface of the instrument panel (nicest looking installation) or do they
need to stick out a little bit so we don't have seating problems? Is there
a standard way to do this or do I just have to fiddle around with it until
things match up? Should I slot the mounting holes in the aluminum rails a
little to provide some wiggle room?
I'm thinking that I'll make both the radio stack cutout in the panel and the
aluminum rails the full height of the RV-6 panel. That way I can just make
covers that I can remove later if I want to change radios and/or add
something like the G430 or MX-20. I was also thinking that I should drill
holes in the aluminum angle rails above and below my current stack to
facilitate easy install of new trays later. Is there a standard dimension
between the holes on the trays or between trays that I can use that will
facilitate this (ie. Can I just drill holes in the mounting rails every
inch)? Or is this just wishful thinking and I'll have to endure the pain of
trying to do this later with the panel in the plane (yuck)? Any other words
of wisdom on installing the radio stack? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Enjoying systems install after spending (8+) years as a tin-smith.
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin avionics trays
From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
I just acquired an all Garmin stack - GMA 340, GTX 327, SL40 -
all 3 trays are exactly 6.25"
g
>
>
> I can verify that it's not "fixed"...doubt that it ever will be
> except that maybe new models coming out will be more standardized.
>
> My PS Engineering 8000, GNS480, SL-30, and GTX330 Transponder
> had at least one or two of them that were 6.3 while
> the others were 6.25. All of it was new this year.
> Nothing was a major problem. The biggest problem I had, which
> is a tip any GNS480 buyer should remember, is make sure you
> mount your GNS480 tray at least flush with the face of your
> panel, if not out a couple thousandths. The GNS 480 is
> notorious for not seating all the way into it's tray, and your
> serial communications won't work. I tried for 2 nights to
> get my stuff to talk, and after talking to Stark and getting
> that tip, I moved my tray aft a tad and then pushed the radio
> in as hard as I could...problem solved.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10
>
>
>
> Greg Young wrote:
> >
> > The issue, at least my experience, was that the PS Engineering tray
> > (PS7000 = SL15) was wider that the "real" UPSAT/Garmin units (SL-30,
> > SL-70, GX-60 for me) and necessitated spacers for the non-PS units. The
> > mounting holes spacing (fore-aft) is not the same either but that's
> > really minor. I don't think the Garmin audio panel (GMA340??) is made by
> > PS Engineering so it may not have the same issue.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> > RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
> > Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>In researching my panel, I occcasionally have come across the
> >>gripe that the Garmin avionics trays were non-standard in
> >>that they were 6.3 inches wide instead of 6.25, and thus
> >>required the use of washers if installed with other
> >>non-Garmin components. I recently purchased the Garmin SL-40
> >>transceiver and GTX-327 transponder. Measured the trays, and
> >>both were 6.25, so it appears that this issue has been taken
> >>care of. Thought I would pass this along to others
> >>contemplating panel choices.
> >>
> >>regards
> >>
> >>Erich Weaver
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | deburring inside of ribs |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes? The avery swivel
doesn't do it.
Maybe I could stick the head in the end of the 90-degree drill kit... hmmm.
~Paul
~9A QB #1176 Setting 1st rivets on h. stab tomorrow maybe...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: deburring inside of ribs |
I used a Scotch Brite Wheel (small) on an adapter for the drill.
Jim
Jim Cimino
N7TL
RV-8 S/N 80039
200+ Hours
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 11:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: deburring inside of ribs
>
>
> What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes? The
> avery swivel doesn't do it.
>
> Maybe I could stick the head in the end of the 90-degree drill kit...
> hmmm.
>
> ~Paul
> ~9A QB #1176 Setting 1st rivets on h. stab tomorrow maybe...
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Scaringe <bscaringe(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Tools For Sale: Pneumatic Squeezer, Flange Nose Yoke, Rivet Set |
Kit, Edge Roller
Hi Builders, I'm selling these high quality tools on eBay:
CP-214 Pneumatic Rivet C-Yoke Squeezer (item 7582769556)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7582769556
2.5" Flange Nose Yoke (item 7582766998)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7582766998
Rivet Squeezer Set and Dimple Die Kit with Rivet Reader Set (item 7582766017)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7582766017
Cleaveland Aircraft Aluminum Edge Forming Roller Tool (item 7582763388)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7582763388
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie fluting question |
At the same time, bend as necessary to make the rib edges perpendicular to
the web so the skin lays flat. Also after fluting and straightening run the
tip of the nose rib against a disk sander to make sure the curve is smooth.
Any bumps or irregularities may cause a bump in the skin. If the rib isn't
flat against the skin, riveting may cause a depression where the skin is
pulled down to the rib. You have to flute before you can assemble and match
drill otherwise the rib holes won't match the skin holes.
My sequence is:
1. Dress all edges against the scotchbright wheel.
2. Flute the rib as necessary to make it lay flat (this will put all rivet
hole is a line).
3. Bend the edges if necessary so they are perpendicular to the web.
4. Assemble, match drill.
5. Deburr and dimple.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin Avionics Trays |
Cc:
Dean,
I've got the same stack going into my -6 and am also flying one in my Navion. I
used 3/4x3/4x.063 angle for my rails and match drilled them for the holes in
the trays and mounted nutplates on the rails. I used flat head screws for mounting.
The audio panel tray is flush with the front of the rails and the SL & GX
trays set back further to get the front panels lined up the way I wanted. There's
an .063 doubler plus the .063 panel on top of the rails so the radios set
1/8 below the panel surface.
I spaced the rails slightly wider (5-10 thou) than the audio panel tray because
the radio bezel is wider than the tray. I made shim strips, drilled to the mounting
holes, for both sides of the SL/GX's. The mounting holes are not spaced
to any standard plus you can alter the spacing between the radios. The audio
panel holes will not necessarily align vertically with the SL/GX depending on
how you want the bezels to align. I have elected to rebuild the rails if I want
to change the stack in the future. I too looked at Radiorax and found them just
a little pricey.
I'll send you some pictures offline of my -6 panel.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> -->
>
>
> Ok folks ya got my attention:
>
> Since I'm just about to mount my trays I have a few
> questions. I bought an Apollo (UPS Aviation Technologies)
> stack (Audio, SL-30, GX-65 and SL-70) about a year or two
> before they merged with Garmin. Now I'm finally finishing
> the panel and about to install the trays. My ruler says that
> 3 of the trays are exactly 6 1/4 inches wide. The audio
> panel tray however (SL-10MS, actually a PS Engineering PMA
> 6000 with Apollo bezel), is about
> 1/32 wider. So....we been discussing the 6.25 vs 6.3 inch
> width issue here and I obviously can't install the mounting
> rails at 6.25 inches apart or I'm not going to be able to fit
> the audio panel in.
>
> What has everyone been doing for mounting rails for these
> trays? My plan is to use 1/16 aluminum angle (flush) riveted
> to the back of the instrument panel cutout at the tray's
> width apart. Is this a good plan or do you recommend doing
> something else (I already looked at Radio Rax, too spendy)?
> Is there a standard distance between the two rails that will
> allow me to add new radio technology later? If I make the
> rails 6.3 inches apart do I just add shims between the rails
> and the other (6.25 inch) trays? What do the avionics shops
> do? How do I mount the trays to the rail? I see two holes
> in the front and back (sides) of the trays, does one just
> match drill the rails to these holes and install screws and
> nuts? Do I need to use a flush head screw inside the tray to
> allow the radios to slide in? Or....is there a special
> fastener I use here?
>
> Tray position forward and aft. I heard some rumblings about
> the 480 not seating. Are we trying to get the back of the
> bezels to just touch the surface of the instrument panel
> (nicest looking installation) or do they need to stick out a
> little bit so we don't have seating problems? Is there a
> standard way to do this or do I just have to fiddle around
> with it until things match up? Should I slot the mounting
> holes in the aluminum rails a little to provide some wiggle room?
>
> I'm thinking that I'll make both the radio stack cutout in
> the panel and the aluminum rails the full height of the RV-6
> panel. That way I can just make covers that I can remove
> later if I want to change radios and/or add something like
> the G430 or MX-20. I was also thinking that I should drill
> holes in the aluminum angle rails above and below my current
> stack to facilitate easy install of new trays later. Is
> there a standard dimension between the holes on the trays or
> between trays that I can use that will facilitate this (ie.
> Can I just drill holes in the mounting rails every inch)? Or
> is this just wishful thinking and I'll have to endure the
> pain of trying to do this later with the panel in the plane
> (yuck)? Any other words of wisdom on installing the radio
> stack? Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Enjoying systems install after spending (8+) years as a tin-smith.
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Artifical Horizon |
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro. Something
solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a standard instrument
hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric Artificial Horizon.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
Hi, the dynon I believe fits in a 3 1/8" hole although it overhangs the hole
considerably.
As a matter of interest, do or did you never switch the gyro off before
doing aero's? and another one: how much G would you pull in a regular
session?
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 10:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
>
> Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
> Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a
> standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric
> Artificial Horizon.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
It was always on. I told it doesn't make any difference. Even caged there is
still ware on bearings when doing acro.
I knew about the Dynon but it overlaps.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4911#4911
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Maybe install blanks over the holes at 3 and 9 o'clock, and keep your
favorite backup guages at 5, 6 and 7 o'clock? Or would the Dynon overlap
all of the remaining five holes?
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Steve Glasgow said:
>
> It was always on. I told it doesn't make any difference. Even caged
> there is still ware on bearings when doing acro.
>
> I knew about the Dynon but it overlaps.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4911#4911
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
>
>
> It was always on. I told it doesn't make any difference.
> Even caged there is still ware on bearings when doing acro.
>
> I knew about the Dynon but it overlaps.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
Think about it: it is not reasonable to think that a non-spinning gyro
tumbling in its gimbals does as much damage as when a spinning gyro tries to
drive through the gimbal limits. Tremendous forces can be generated when a
spinning gyro causes the gimbles to hit their limits. Caging a spinning
gyro is probably slightly better, but still generates brutal forces compared
to a non spinning gyro.
The only people I've heard say that spinning vs non-spinning is the same
thing are those who make a living repairing them. They are going to have to
put forth a very detailed argument before they convince me.
Does anyone on this list remember the forearm exercising device called the
DynaBee?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 705 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Clark <jclarkmail(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
Steve,
As mentioned, the Dynon D10 and D10A fit in the hole and overhang a little.
You might also consider the offerings from Trutrak.
Not EXACTLY an artificial horizon .... but might do what you want and more.
See these pages ... http://www.steinair.com/instruments.htm or
http://www.steinair.com/trutrak.htm
or these ...
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/new_products.html or
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/trutrak_autopilots.html
James
On 1/18/06, Steve Glasgow wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a
> gyro. Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits
> in a standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen
> Electric Artificial Horizon.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D4899#4899
>
>
--
This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
james(at)nextupventures.com .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Glueing canopies |
Hi Charlie-
I got what Rob recommended- Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner,
and the Sika
209 primer
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: deburring inside of ribs |
In a message dated 1/17/06 10:25:03 PM Central Standard Time,
PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com writes:
> What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes?
>>>>
Hi Paul-
Take a look here:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4865
Worked great for me!
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips N51PW - 275 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Doble" <mark.doble(at)mddesigns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CYL high temp |
Have you calibrated your thermocouple sensors?
You can get calibration charts from here....
EGT
http://www.stratologic.net/Downloads/Type%20K%20Chart.pdf
CHT
http://www.stratologic.net/Downloads/Type%20J%20Chart.pdf
i've seen some instruments off by 30-40degrees
I have a plug-in thermocouple calibrator that can easily checkout the
instrument...i've used it on a few instruments and it has been great to
track down inaccuracies.
Also, you can use an iron and a high temp thermometer if you cant generate
the required millivolts easily.
Walmart or some other store sells a digital cooking thermometer that is
fairly accurate that you can use as a reference up to 392F and is accurate
to 1-2F (you can check this out by ice bath and boiling water...easy
references). There is another model that is good up to 260C (or 500
something F).
At least would give some confidence in the instrument and would be a good
starting point.
regards,
Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | deburring inside of ribs |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
Thanks, but I meant drill holes, not lightening holes. Those are easy
enough to do.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: deburring inside of ribs
In a message dated 1/17/06 10:25:03 PM Central Standard Time,
PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com writes:
> What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes?
>>>>
Hi Paul-
Take a look here:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4865
Worked great for me!
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips N51PW - 275 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
PC Flight Systems makes a 2 1/4" solid state horizon gyro... The only one I
can think of that is stand alone at the moment...
http://www.pcflightsystems.com/
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
www.rv8a.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 3:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a
standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric
Artificial Horizon.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)ashcreekwireless.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopiesGlueing canopies |
I used just under 2 tubes of Sikaflex 295UV to do the frame/canopy as well as all
the canopy skirts...so my guess is would be just under 2 pounds weight penalty.
BTW, the reason they started doing this in Africa several years ago had
more to do with heat than cold, but I suppose it's the daily temp spread that
causes the most trouble.
Bob Brown
RV7A - laying up plenum
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chaztuna(at)adelphia.net |
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
Cc: RAS
Marcel,
Your instruments must be on 3.75" centers to allow the installation of the Dynon
D10 (surface mount). Using a tighter grouping will cause the edge of the Dynon
(it protrudes .5" out from the panel) to block your view of the neighboring
instruments.
Charlie Kuss
---- RAS wrote:
>
> Hi, the dynon I believe fits in a 3 1/8" hole although it overhangs the hole
> considerably.
> As a matter of interest, do or did you never switch the gyro off before
> doing aero's? and another one: how much G would you pull in a regular
> session?
>
> Marcel
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 10:13 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
>
>
> >
> > Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
> > Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a
> > standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric
> > Artificial Horizon.
> >
> > --------
> > Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> > Cappy's Toy
> > RV-8 N123SG
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
Did you turn off the AH while done your acro??
Thanks,
Bob
On 1/18/06, Steve Glasgow wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a
> gyro. Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits
> in a standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen
> Electric Artificial Horizon.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D4899#4899
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Deburring drill holes - WAS lightening holes. |
In a message dated 1/18/06 9:25:57 AM Central Standard Time,
PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com writes:
> Thanks, but I meant drill holes, not lightening holes. Those are easy
> enough to do.
>
>>>
Allrighty, then- best thing I've found is a 3-flute countersink about 1/2"
diameter with a 1/4" shank. Get some stiff 1/4" I.D. rubber hose, cut off about
2", stick the countersink in one end and a 6" long 1/4" wooden dowl in the
other, and whirl away. The dowel makes a nice holder that is easily twirled
between your finger and thumb, and can be removed for those tight spots- leave
the hose on the countersink for some extra torque. Another thing I noticed is
that since the hose is never exactly straight, each cutting edge is at a
slightly different angle, making the hole a little "radiused" instead of just
countersunk. PLUS, it acts as a U-joint if necessary to clear obstructions.
Did umpteengagillion holes this way. Tried cordless drill, then screwdriver-
heavy and not sensitive enough and easy to go too deep. Next tried deburring
tool- too much work...
>From The Possumworks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mauri Morin" <maurv8(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
Check TruTrak http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
They have a solid state device called " ADI ".
Fits 3 1/8 hole and includes a directional display as well.
Mauri Morin
Polson, MT
RV-8 Fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 3:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
>
> Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
> Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a
> standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric
> Artificial Horizon.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Deburring drill holes - WAS lightening holes. |
Another way is to take a threaded countersink bit and stick a piece of
nylon string through the hole. Burn the end of the string so that it
won't pull out of the hole. Wind the string around the body of the
countersink, hold the threaded end of the bit with a 1/4" or so
combination wrench so it can spin freely and pull the string. You can
put considerable pressure on the bit with a finger over end of the
wrench and it won't take more than a turn or two to remove the burr. I
usually get about three holes before I have to rewind the string. You
can get into very restricted spaces with this technique. If there's more
room behind the hole, you can thread the bit into a "spud" (an extension
meant to be chucked in a drill). It's a little easier to control and you
can use it on the front side of the hole too. Just chuck it in a drill
or cordless screw driver and turn it slowly. Ignore the string while
working from the front. One thing to learn is to not over deburr. It's
easy to make it like a little countersink and that's not what you want.
Sometimes stubborn little boogers can be picked off with a fingernail.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 9:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Deburring drill holes - WAS lightening holes.
In a message dated 1/18/06 9:25:57 AM Central Standard Time,
PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com writes:
> Thanks, but I meant drill holes, not lightening holes. Those are easy
> enough to do.
>
>>>
Allrighty, then- best thing I've found is a 3-flute countersink about
1/2"
diameter with a 1/4" shank. Get some stiff 1/4" I.D. rubber hose, cut
off about
2", stick the countersink in one end and a 6" long 1/4" wooden dowl in
the
other, and whirl away. The dowel makes a nice holder that is easily
twirled
between your finger and thumb, and can be removed for those tight spots-
leave
the hose on the countersink for some extra torque. Another thing I
noticed is
that since the hose is never exactly straight, each cutting edge is at a
slightly different angle, making the hole a little "radiused" instead of
just
countersunk. PLUS, it acts as a U-joint if necessary to clear
obstructions.
Did umpteengagillion holes this way. Tried cordless drill, then
screwdriver-
heavy and not sensitive enough and easy to go too deep. Next tried
deburring
tool- too much work...
>From The Possumworks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Deburring drill holes - WAS lightening holes. |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Then again, .....you could simply twirl a common #12 (and larger) drill bit with
your fingers and thumb to deburr holes.........that works just fine and the
burrs won't know any different. BTW, with a deft touch, that 3 flute countersink
is just the ticket for countersinking fiberglass.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
[/quote]
Allrighty, then- best thing I've found is a 3-flute countersink about 1/2"
diameter with a 1/4" shank. Get some stiff 1/4" I.D. rubber hose, cut off about
2", stick the countersink in one end and a 6" long 1/4" wooden dowl in the other,
and whirl away. The dowel makes a nice holder that is easily twirled between
your finger and thumb, and can be removed for those tight spots- leave the
hose on the countersink for some extra torque. Another thing I noticed is
that since the hose is never exactly straight, each cutting edge is at a slightly
different angle, making the hole a little "radiused" instead of just countersunk.
PLUS, it acts as a U-joint if necessary to clear obstructions. Did umpteengagillion
holes this way. Tried cordless drill, then screwdriver- heavy
and not sensitive enough and easy to go too deep. Next tried deburring tool-
too much work...
> From The Possumworks in TN
> Mark
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5039#5039
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Hello Sikaflex users. Did you purchase the black or white sika 295 uv? Does
it make a difference? Thanks,
Jim Bowen
>From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 06:18:18 -0800
>
>
>On 5:29:13 2006-01-17 Charlie Kuss wrote:
> > Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
>
> >From an email to this list, in November of 2004 (the Matronics search
>engine is your friend):
>
>---
>Hi Mickey,
>
>I purchased the Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner, and the Sika
>209 primer from Jamestown Distributors.
>Their phone number is 800 423-0030 (also 401 253-3840) . They are a boat
>builder supply store located in Rhode Island.
>
>I have had good service from them, and they sell this stuff in less than
>case
>lots. They also take credit card orders
>over the phone.
>
>They also have a web page www.jamestowndistributors.com
>
>Because some of these items are flammable they have to be shipped by ground
>so it could take a while to receive depending
>upon where you live.
>
>If you get some let me know what you think about it.
>
>Jim Ellis
>finishing canopy
>RV9-A tip up
>---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Hey Fellow Builders,
So happens that I'm just embarking on the canopy process and
glueing _sounds_ a whole lot more user friendly than drilling,
cracking, scratching, tearing hair out.
Has anyone documented any part of the glue approach on their
website ... would love to get a sense of your experiences,
pitfalls, pros and cons ...
g
>
>
> Hello Sikaflex users. Did you purchase the black or white sika
> 295 uv? Does
> it make a difference? Thanks,
>
> Jim Bowen
>
>
> >From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
> >Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 06:18:18 -0800
> >
> >
> >On 5:29:13 2006-01-17 Charlie Kuss wrote:
> > > Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
> >
> > >From an email to this list, in November of 2004 (the Matronics search
> >engine is your friend):
> >
> >---
> >Hi Mickey,
> >
> >I purchased the Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner, and the Sika
> >209 primer from Jamestown Distributors.
> >Their phone number is 800 423-0030 (also 401 253-3840) . They are a boat
> >builder supply store located in Rhode Island.
> >
> >I have had good service from them, and they sell this stuff in less than
> >case
> >lots. They also take credit card orders
> >over the phone.
> >
> >They also have a web page www.jamestowndistributors.com
> >
> >Because some of these items are flammable they have to be shipped by ground
> >so it could take a while to receive depending
> >upon where you live.
> >
> >If you get some let me know what you think about it.
> >
> >Jim Ellis
> >finishing canopy
> >RV9-A tip up
> >---
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Ellis <rv8builder(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
It is my understanding that the white material is a caulking material and does
not have adhesive qualities. I would check with vendor and/or manufacturer to
be sure.
Dale
Building a RV-8 in SC
-----Original Message-----
>From: JAMES BOWEN <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com>
>Sent: Jan 18, 2006 1:47 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>
>
>Hello Sikaflex users. Did you purchase the black or white sika 295 uv? Does
>it make a difference? Thanks,
>
>Jim Bowen
>
>
>>From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>>Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 06:18:18 -0800
>>
>>
>>On 5:29:13 2006-01-17 Charlie Kuss wrote:
>> > Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
>>
>> >From an email to this list, in November of 2004 (the Matronics search
>>engine is your friend):
>>
>>---
>>Hi Mickey,
>>
>>I purchased the Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner, and the Sika
>>209 primer from Jamestown Distributors.
>>Their phone number is 800 423-0030 (also 401 253-3840) . They are a boat
>>builder supply store located in Rhode Island.
>>
>>I have had good service from them, and they sell this stuff in less than
>>case
>>lots. They also take credit card orders
>>over the phone.
>>
>>They also have a web page www.jamestowndistributors.com
>>
>>Because some of these items are flammable they have to be shipped by ground
>>so it could take a while to receive depending
>>upon where you live.
>>
>>If you get some let me know what you think about it.
>>
>>Jim Ellis
>>finishing canopy
>>RV9-A tip up
>>---
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Here is a link to my experiences:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050614184749626
There are 6 articles in total on the canopy.
Mickey
> Has anyone documented any part of the glue approach on their
> website ... would love to get a sense of your experiences,
> pitfalls, pros and cons ...
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Many thanks Mickey - this looks like a very doable process and
the results look great !
I'm building a 9 - any thoughts on wether the larger dimensions
of my canopy might present additional problems ?
g
>
>
> Here is a link to my experiences:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050614184749626
>
> There are 6 articles in total on the canopy.
>
> Mickey
>
> > Has anyone documented any part of the glue approach on their
> > website ... would love to get a sense of your experiences,
> > pitfalls, pros and cons ...
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
I really can't say if the 9 will be very different. The
guy that introduced me to this process had a 6 slider,
which I assume is not very different from a 9.
If you look here: http://www.vansairforce.net/ and
click down about one screen, you can see two pictures
of someone with a 6/7/9 slider canopy that has been
glued. I have no idea who is the owner of this canopy,
but you can see one of the "challenges" with the glue -
keeping the final finish looking perfect. It's harder
than it looks, because sikaflex 295 UV dries pretty quickly.
Here are the direct links to the pictures, for the
archive:
http://www.vansairforce.net/delete_eventually/IronFlight_Visit/IMG_0373.JPG
http://www.vansairforce.net/delete_eventually/IronFlight_Visit/IMG_0374.JPG
Best of luck, take a lot of pictures, and put them
on your website!
Best regards,
Mickey
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
> Many thanks Mickey - this looks like a very doable process and
> the results look great !
>
> I'm building a 9 - any thoughts on wether the larger dimensions
> of my canopy might present additional problems ?
>
> g
>
>
>>
>>Here is a link to my experiences:
>>
>> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050614184749626
>>
>>There are 6 articles in total on the canopy.
>>
>>Mickey
>>
>>
>>>Has anyone documented any part of the glue approach on their
>>>website ... would love to get a sense of your experiences,
>>>pitfalls, pros and cons ...
>>
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <erichweaver(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | garmin avionics trays |
Dan P.:
Do what we all do when we dont know what to do - look it up on Checkoway's web
site to see how he did it. C'mon, get with the program and pay attention! : )
Here's a link to get you close - there is probably more to be found using his web
site search tool
http://www.rvproject.com/20030613.html
Erich Weaver
RV-7a, firewall forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Hello Dale,
I think the correct Sikaflex to use might be #291
When installing the slider canopy to the frame on my 6a I used 6/32 screws
instead of rivets. I used a Targa strip along the centre and the forward
edge to spread the screws compression load. I did not use any sealant during
assembly. Rivets scared me.
The result was acceptable but had issues that needed attention;
When moved, the slider made creaking noises caused by the lack of sealant
between the frame and the Plexiglas. Clearly the frame was changing shape
when any pressure was applied to open or close it. Sometimes the forward
edge of the slider contacted the fibre-glas edge around the windshield.
I contacted Sikaflex and they advised using Sikaflex-291 a fast cure marine
adhesive/sealant and bedding compound.
We applied masking tape and paper to keep things tidy to both sides of all
the reachable areas where the tube frame and the Plexiglas meet. we then
laid in a bead of the Sikaflex followed by a dry finger tip to force the
sealant into the crevice and also leave a nice looking filet.
When all was done I closed the canopy and latched it. I left it to set up
that way for a few days. We then taped and papered up the outside areas
where the aluminiun edge and the Plexiglas come together. The tape was
applied right to the edge of the aluminium. On the Plexiglas the tape was
applied leaving about a 1/8" gap.
When all prep was ready we applied tank sealant and used a popsicle stick
afterwards to create a good looking fillet.
The amount of Sikaflex used was about two thirds of a tube. Some amount of
this volume was removed during the fillet forming process. I think that half
a tube actually ended up staying on the canopy. This includes a small amount
used on the rear side of the roll bar to tidy up the look and add a little
strength there.
The time spent doing the taping and the Sikaflex was about 3 hours.
The end result is the canopy looks great inside and out and it works great.
No squeaks, feels very solid in use. It does not make contact with the
windshield edge on closing.
The 5 or six ounces of added sealant (each tube contains 10.5 ounces) where
well worth the effort.
The aircraft (Chubby?!) is painted and is being put together in the hangar.
Should be ready for flight as the weather warms this coming spring.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ellis" <rv8builder(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>
> It is my understanding that the white material is a caulking material and
> does not have adhesive qualities. I would check with vendor and/or
> manufacturer to be sure.
>
> Dale
> Building a RV-8 in SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
Cc:
| Subject: | Re : Gluing Canopies |
Those that are working with the side x side versions ( RV-6's and 7's ) may
like to take a look at Billy Water's site...
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/bbcanopy/gluingyourcanopy.htm
Regards
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
The Bluemountain EIFS lite G3 will fit in a standard hole (I did an easy
retro-fit). But it has the same problems with protruding and overlapping as
the Dynon. It is a little more money with alot more features.
Dave Leonard
On 1/18/06, chaztuna(at)adelphia.net wrote:
>
>
> Marcel,
> Your instruments must be on 3.75" centers to allow the installation of the
> Dynon D10 (surface mount). Using a tighter grouping will cause the edge of
> the Dynon (it protrudes .5" out from the panel) to block your view of the
> neighboring instruments.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> ---- RAS wrote:
> deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
> >
> > Hi, the dynon I believe fits in a 3 1/8" hole although it overhangs the
> hole
> > considerably.
> > As a matter of interest, do or did you never switch the gyro off before
> > doing aero's? and another one: how much G would you pull in a regular
> > session?
> >
> > Marcel
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 10:13 AM
> > Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
> >
> >
> willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
> > >
> > > Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
> > > Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in
> a
> > > standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen
> Electric
> > > Artificial Horizon.
> > >
> > > --------
> > > Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> > > Cappy's Toy
> > > RV-8 N123SG
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Read this topic online here:
> > >
> > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D4899#4899
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Sikaflex advises to use the black as it has a much better UV tolerance,
also, u have to maintain a minimum gap between frame and canopee for the
sikaflex to work. According to the lad i talked to, if u do not allow
for a gap, the sikaflex will eventually rip from expansion differences
between plexi and frame.
I also got from Jamestown as they sell piecemeal.
JAMES BOWEN wrote:
>
>Hello Sikaflex users. Did you purchase the black or white sika 295 uv? Does
>it make a difference? Thanks,
>
>Jim Bowen
>
>
>
>
>>From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>>Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 06:18:18 -0800
>>
>>
>>On 5:29:13 2006-01-17 Charlie Kuss wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
>>>
>>>
>>>From an email to this list, in November of 2004 (the Matronics search
>>engine is your friend):
>>
>>---
>>Hi Mickey,
>>
>>I purchased the Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner, and the Sika
>>209 primer from Jamestown Distributors.
>>Their phone number is 800 423-0030 (also 401 253-3840) . They are a boat
>>builder supply store located in Rhode Island.
>>
>>I have had good service from them, and they sell this stuff in less than
>>case
>>lots. They also take credit card orders
>>over the phone.
>>
>>They also have a web page www.jamestowndistributors.com
>>
>>Because some of these items are flammable they have to be shipped by ground
>>so it could take a while to receive depending
>>upon where you live.
>>
>>If you get some let me know what you think about it.
>>
>>Jim Ellis
>>finishing canopy
>>RV9-A tip up
>>---
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Artifical Horizon |
This is probably what you are looking for. Comes in 2 1/4 or 3 1/8.
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/ttfsinstruments.html
Bill S
7a Ark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Glasgow
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 4:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a
standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric
Artificial Horizon.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "REHughes" <hawk(at)digisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
The original poster was looking for an Artificial Horizon, and I presume
that means he wants an instrument that displays aircraft attitude, ideally
capable of displaying 360 deg in both pitch and roll. As discussed in Doug
Reeve's Vans Air Force forum and probably in the RV-List archives, the
TruTrak ADI can best be conceptualized as a Turn Coordinator with a
centrally-placed VSI scale. Like any TC, it is a useful instrument, but the
TT ADI does not display any attitude data in either pitch or roll.
Hawkeye Hughes
RV-3 / Skyote
>
>
> This is probably what you are looking for. Comes in 2 1/4 or 3 1/8.
>
>
> http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/ttfsinstruments.html
>
>
> Bill S
> 7a Ark
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Glasgow
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 4:13 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
>
>
> Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
> Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a
> standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric
> Artificial Horizon.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Glueing canopies |
Hello Sikaflex users. Did you purchase the black or white sika 295 uv? Does
it make a difference? Thanks,
Here's a cut and paste from sikaflex... Steve dinieri
Application:
. SikaflexR-295 UV black is intended to be used as an adhesive and/or
sealant in bonding applications for:
- polycarbonate
- acrylic (PMAA)
Use in conjunction with SikaR- Primer 209. Always seek the manufacturer's
advice prior
to bonding these plastics that are prone to stress cracking.
. SikaflexR-295 UV white is intended to be used as a sealant in open joints
exposed to
sunlight for sealing:
- glass
- ceramics
- metals
- many plastics
- fiberglass
- many types of paint
Use in conjunction with SikaR-Cleaner 226 or SikaR-Aktivator. Refer to the
Surface Preparation Guidelines for further information.
Surface reparation for acrylic (PMAA) or Polycarbonate:
. Scuff the bond area with sand paper or a Scotchbrite pad.
. Degrease the bond area with SikaR-Cleaner 226 (drying time 10 minutes)
. Apply SikaR-Primer 209 in one continuous, homogeneous coat with a brush or
dauber (drying time 20 minutes at 75oF). If there is an abrasion/scratch
resistant coating, it must be completelyremoved with sandpaper (80x - 120x)
prior to surface preparation (i.e. Margard coating on Lexan). Organic
windows with special tinting or coating should be pretested for adhesion.
Refer to the Surface Preparation Guidelines or Sika's Technical Service
Department for further information.
Adhesive Application:
Sikaflex-295 UV should be applied in a triangular bead through an
appropriately
cut nozzle. The nozzle cut dimensions and the number of beads applied are
dependent
upon the required width and thickness of the adhesive bead in the final
assembly.
Width: The adhesive width is dependant upon the constraints of the assembly
(available
glazing area and degree of compression). The joint width must be a minimum
of
3/8".
Substrate and Working Conditions:
. During these operations, the bonding surfaces must be free of dirt, debris
and standing moisture.
. Keep the work area shielded from direct sunlight and temperature extremes;
apply
system at a maximum ambient temperature of 95oF.
. Joint thickness can be maintained using self-adhesive rubber spacers of
Shore A 30 hardness.
. Once the window is installed, it must be braced for at least 12 hours.
. During assembly/bracing , take care not to twist or bend the window
excessively.
Thickness: For bonding on metal or composite framing, the adhesive thickness
is dependant upon the longest dimension of the window.
Limitations:
- Do not apply on frozen surface or through standing water or under water.
- Do not apply over silicones or in the presence of curing silicones.
- Avoid contact with alcohol and alcoholcontaining solvents during cure.
- Allow minimum of 1 week full cure prior to total water immersion
situations.
- Maximum chlorine exposure 2.5 ppm.
- Do not use as a deck seam sealant.
- Do not use for bonding glass.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Alt. High pressure elect. fuel pump |
Hi all,
I searched the archieves, but could not find an cheaper alternative the airflow
perf. pump Vans sells for the fuel injected engines. Anyone know of a viable
alternative to this.
Thanks,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com> |
| Subject: | Re: deburring inside of ribs |
Well, today I was facing the same problem deburring the holes in the rudder
ribs near the trailing edge. The flanges get really close on the last few
holes. I ended up making this doohickey out of a nail. You stick the shank
through the hole from the inside of the flange, then grab on the shank with
your cordless drill. A couple rotations of the drill (in slow speed) and
you've got a nicely deburred hole. Took me about 5 or 10 minutes to make the
thing and it can debur any hole where there's at least 5/16" between flanges.
http://www.cencula.com/nail_deburring_tool.jpg
Have fun,
Mike
On Tuesday January 17 2006 11:18 pm, Folbrecht, Paul wrote:
>
>
> What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes? The
> avery swivel doesn't do it.
>
> Maybe I could stick the head in the end of the 90-degree drill kit... hmmm.
>
> ~Paul
> ~9A QB #1176 Setting 1st rivets on h. stab tomorrow maybe...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: deburring inside of ribs |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
There are any number of accessories for use in your Dremel tool or my favorite,
a pneumatic pencil grinder such as ball files or stones that will reach those
problem areas and deburr structural parts just fine.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
PFolbrecht(at)starkinvest wrote:
> What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes? The avery
swivel doesn't do it.
>
> Maybe I could stick the head in the end of the 90-degree drill kit... hmmm.
>
> ~Paul
> ~9A QB #1176 Setting 1st rivets on h. stab tomorrow maybe...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5217#5217
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | deburring inside of ribs |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
Creative! Thanks for all the replies on this - I need to learn to think
a bit more 'out of the box' on this stuff.
I did end up doing those holes with a dremel bit held in my fingers.
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael D.
Cencula
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 1:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: deburring inside of ribs
Well, today I was facing the same problem deburring the holes in the
rudder
ribs near the trailing edge. The flanges get really close on the last
few
holes. I ended up making this doohickey out of a nail. You stick the
shank
through the hole from the inside of the flange, then grab on the shank
with
your cordless drill. A couple rotations of the drill (in slow speed)
and
you've got a nicely deburred hole. Took me about 5 or 10 minutes to
make the
thing and it can debur any hole where there's at least 5/16" between
flanges.
http://www.cencula.com/nail_deburring_tool.jpg
Have fun,
Mike
On Tuesday January 17 2006 11:18 pm, Folbrecht, Paul wrote:
>
>
> What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes? The
> avery swivel doesn't do it.
>
> Maybe I could stick the head in the end of the 90-degree drill kit...
hmmm.
>
> ~Paul
> ~9A QB #1176 Setting 1st rivets on h. stab tomorrow maybe...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
Cc: "Elaine Knoedler"
| Subject: | RV-4 empennage and tools for sale |
Subject: RV-4 Empennage Kit and Tools for Sale
I am posting this for the wife of a friend who died of cancer. For information
about these items, you may contact Elaine directly at e-mail Elaine_knoedler(at)sbcglobal.net
Located in Cary, IL near (3CK) Lake-in-the Hills airport.
RV-4 empennage kit purchsed in May 04 and untouched except for assembling the horizontal
stabolizer spar and ribs. All of the skins are untouched and are still
wrapped in blue protective covering.
Price if purchased from Van's is $1,140 plus freight. Includes organizer trays
for hardware. Asking $900 FOB Cary, IL. A very nicely constructed jig is included
if you pick it up in Cary.
Also available for sale are the following (now) used items purchased NEW for this
project:
Craftsman upright air compressor. 5 hp with regulator, and hose. Retail $520
value; Asking $466.
Ryobi 5" bench grinder. Retail $39. Asking $30.
Craftsman Drill Press and stand. Retail $279. Asking $134.
Menard Belt & disk Sander. Retail $149. Asking $100.
4x8 builder constructed work bench. Asking $100.
Portable bench on wheels. Asking $38.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | deburring inside of ribs |
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle(at)hq.InclineSoftworks.com> |
I use the swivel debur on the lightening holes and wiring holes. On
smaller ones, I use sandpaper or scotch brite. The key is to knock off
any rough spots that might start stress cracks.
Van's guidance is if you aren't likely to cut your finger on the edge,
it is good enough. I go further than that.
HS is relatively thin material in most places so knocking off the edges
is pretty easy.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Folbrecht, Paul
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: deburring inside of ribs
What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes? The
avery swivel doesn't do it.
Maybe I could stick the head in the end of the 90-degree drill kit...
hmmm.
~Paul
~9A QB #1176 Setting 1st rivets on h. stab tomorrow maybe...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Yes thank you Mickey, well done. Questions, did you just run the one bead of
Sika from the top of the frame as shown? You don't feel you need to run
another from the bottom side of the frame? Also if you do it the way you
suggest, many small tack type applications first, then after drying come
back and lay up the full bead. Is that the time you would pull the hose type
spacers, after tacking and before full bead application? Many thanks again.
Jim Bowen
RV-8 QB
>From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 12:50:18 -0800
>
>
>Many thanks Mickey - this looks like a very doable process and
>the results look great !
>
>I'm building a 9 - any thoughts on wether the larger dimensions
>of my canopy might present additional problems ?
>
>g
>
> >
> >
> > Here is a link to my experiences:
> >
> > http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050614184749626
> >
> > There are 6 articles in total on the canopy.
> >
> > Mickey
> >
> > > Has anyone documented any part of the glue approach on their
> > > website ... would love to get a sense of your experiences,
> > > pitfalls, pros and cons ...
> >
>
>--
>__g__
>
>=========================================================
>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Alt. High pressure elect. fuel pump |
Actually, The Airflow pump that Van's sells is the cheapest alternative I've
found. The other "certified" pumps run almost double the cost of the
Airflow Performance.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Alt. High pressure elect. fuel pump
>Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 00:26:08 -0500
>
>
>Hi all,
>
>I searched the archieves, but could not find an cheaper alternative the
>airflow perf. pump Vans sells for the fuel injected engines. Anyone know
>of a viable alternative to this.
>
>Thanks,
>Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Hi. They offer Sika 295 in black or white. At least that's what I believe I
read off the Jamestown websight.
Jim Bowen
>From: Dale Ellis <rv8builder(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 14:34:18 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
>
>
>It is my understanding that the white material is a caulking material and
>does not have adhesive qualities. I would check with vendor and/or
>manufacturer to be sure.
>
>Dale
>Building a RV-8 in SC
>
>-----Original Message-----
> >From: JAMES BOWEN <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com>
> >Sent: Jan 18, 2006 1:47 PM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
> >
> >
> >Hello Sikaflex users. Did you purchase the black or white sika 295 uv?
>Does
> >it make a difference? Thanks,
> >
> >Jim Bowen
> >
> >
> >>From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
> >>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >>To:
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
> >>Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 06:18:18 -0800
> >>
> >>
> >>On 5:29:13 2006-01-17 Charlie Kuss wrote:
> >> > Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
> >>
> >> >From an email to this list, in November of 2004 (the Matronics search
> >>engine is your friend):
> >>
> >>---
> >>Hi Mickey,
> >>
> >>I purchased the Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner, and the
>Sika
> >>209 primer from Jamestown Distributors.
> >>Their phone number is 800 423-0030 (also 401 253-3840) . They are a
>boat
> >>builder supply store located in Rhode Island.
> >>
> >>I have had good service from them, and they sell this stuff in less than
> >>case
> >>lots. They also take credit card orders
> >>over the phone.
> >>
> >>They also have a web page www.jamestowndistributors.com
> >>
> >>Because some of these items are flammable they have to be shipped by
>ground
> >>so it could take a while to receive depending
> >>upon where you live.
> >>
> >>If you get some let me know what you think about it.
> >>
> >>Jim Ellis
> >>finishing canopy
> >>RV9-A tip up
> >>---
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Artificial Horizon |
I did handle the ADI on the bench at Sun'N'Fun. I didn't try a
hammerhead with it, but it did seem to track bank angle as well as any
gyro I've done the same with, regardless of pitch attitude. It did give
me weird indications in pitch and they told me it would because there
was no change in altitude to work with. It initially showed the pitch up
and then returned to level.
They said that is very flyable. Their reasoning, as I understand it, is
that the actual pitch attitude of the aircraft is less important to your
moment to moment control inputs than having an indication of what the
trend is. In other words, if you wish to climb, descend or fly level,
the instrument gives you a clear indication of the effect of your
control inputs on the flight path. If you were to get behind the power
curve, the display might not be so intuitive. They have a flashing
airspeed warning for that condition. I don't know how easy it would be
to figure out what to do if the nose was up and the vertical speed began
to go negative using only the ADI for reference. Definitely not
something I would want to try for the first time in the clouds. Your
other instruments, notably the airspeed indicator and altimeter, would
tell the story.
I asked them what would happen if you got inverted in the clouds. Their
reply was that you'd be in a world of hurt no matter what kind of
attitude indicator you were using, but they felt that the with ADI it
would be at least as easy to prevent such a condition from occurring as
with an AH.
I was impressed with the instrument at the airshow. I would love to hear
from someone who's flying it.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jamie Painter
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
I agree Hawkeye, sitting the unit on the bench would be a good, simple
test. I do suspect though that the instrument will indicate bank
angle...we'll see. Hopefully someone can test it and let the list know.
I've tumbled gyros in spam cans doing stalls so I'm not sure that
peoples' assertions that the ADI is unsafe in extreme attitudes is
necessarily a disadvantage of the instrument over mechanical gyros.
That's why traditional AH gyros having caging knobs, useful only in
straight and level flight. If they're so accurate, why do they need
that little knob? Isn't this one of the reasons why we're taught to
recover from spins by looking at the TC?
When recovering from unusual attitudes you look at what first? The
airspeed to see if it's increasing or decreasing (to indicate descent or
climb) and then the AH to determine corrective action necessary to level
the wings. So in recovering from an unusual attitude, there is really
not much difference at all between the ADI and a mechanical gyro
(assuming of course the ADI really indicates bank).
That being said, I do wish Trutrak would release a solid-state electric
attitude indicator. I think they would sell the hell out of it and I
would be one of their first customers.
Jamie D. Painter
http://rv.jpainter.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Hi Jim,
I did run the one bead from the top, but if I were to do it
again, I would only run one from the bottom, none on the top.
Of course, it is possible it would not look "cool" with only
the bead on the bottom, and then I would have to run a
cosmetic bead from the top. Not sure. In any case,
my bead on the top is about 2x the size it needs to be.
You've got it exactly right on the tack beads. Tack, let set,
remove the hose spacers, and then run the full bead.
That is how I will do it on my next RV, unless I hear
from one of you guys that comes up with a better way!
Best regards,
Mickey
JAMES BOWEN wrote:
>
> Yes thank you Mickey, well done. Questions, did you just run the one bead of
> Sika from the top of the frame as shown? You don't feel you need to run
> another from the bottom side of the frame? Also if you do it the way you
> suggest, many small tack type applications first, then after drying come
> back and lay up the full bead. Is that the time you would pull the hose type
> spacers, after tacking and before full bead application? Many thanks again.
>
> Jim Bowen
> RV-8 QB
>
>
>
>
>>From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>>Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 12:50:18 -0800
>>
>>
>>
>>Many thanks Mickey - this looks like a very doable process and
>>the results look great !
>>
>>I'm building a 9 - any thoughts on wether the larger dimensions
>>of my canopy might present additional problems ?
>>
>>g
>>
>>
>>>
>>>Here is a link to my experiences:
>>>
>>> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050614184749626
>>>
>>>There are 6 articles in total on the canopy.
>>>
>>>Mickey
>>>
>>>
>>>>Has anyone documented any part of the glue approach on their
>>>>website ... would love to get a sense of your experiences,
>>>>pitfalls, pros and cons ...
>>>
>>--
>>__g__
>>
>>=========================================================
>>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
>> Tel: 415 203 9177
>>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie fluting question |
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
>At the same time, bend as necessary to make the rib edges perpendicular to
>the web so the skin lays flat. Also after fluting and straightening run the
>tip of the nose rib against a disk sander to make sure the curve is smooth.
>Any bumps or irregularities may cause a bump in the skin. If the rib isn't
>flat against the skin, riveting may cause a depression where the skin is
>pulled down to the rib. You have to flute before you can assemble and match
>drill otherwise the rib holes won't match the skin holes.
>
>My sequence is:
>1. Dress all edges against the scotchbright wheel.
>2. Flute the rib as necessary to make it lay flat (this will put all rivet
>hole is a line).
>3. Bend the edges if necessary so they are perpendicular to the web.
>4. Assemble, match drill.
>5. Deburr and dimple.
>
>Albert Gardner
>Yuma, AZ
>
for newbes: if you're working on the tail (or the fuselage), not all rib
flanges are 90 degrees to the web.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Electonic ignition options |
Listers:
At the risk of starting a huge thread: What are the different types of
ignition systems out there for the I/O 360? Mfg and comments good or bad for
each?
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8
engine re-build
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon |
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Thanks to all who replied to my orriginal post. Your input has been very helpfull.
At present I'm leaning toward the ADI by Trutrack.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5304#5304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Nice log and photos on your site Mickey.
To those who have worked with both ProSeal and Silka what are the property
differences after curing? Is one tougher than the other, more rubbery, more
aggressive tackiness from one or the other? Do you think ProSeal would
glue the canopy well enough to take the place of Silka? How about UV rays
on ProSeal ... does ProSeal have good weathering characteristics? Could
ProSeal be the filler of choice on the rail bottom after tacking with a
small amount of Silka? Does ProSeal flow better than Silka at the same
temperatures. A lot of questions from one who didn't seal his own tanks.
Thanks for your answers,
Regards...
Jerry Grimmonpre'
RV8A
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> I did run the one bead from the top, but if I were to do it
> again, I would only run one from the bottom, none on the top.
> Of course, it is possible it would not look "cool" with only
> the bead on the bottom, and then I would have to run a
> cosmetic bead from the top. Not sure. In any case,
> my bead on the top is about 2x the size it needs to be.
>
> You've got it exactly right on the tack beads. Tack, let set,
> remove the hose spacers, and then run the full bead.
> That is how I will do it on my next RV, unless I hear
> from one of you guys that comes up with a better way!
>
> Best regards,
> Mickey
>
>
> JAMES BOWEN wrote:
>>
>> Yes thank you Mickey, well done. Questions, did you just run the one bead
>> of
>> Sika from the top of the frame as shown? You don't feel you need to run
>> another from the bottom side of the frame? Also if you do it the way you
>> suggest, many small tack type applications first, then after drying come
>> back and lay up the full bead. Is that the time you would pull the hose
>> type
>> spacers, after tacking and before full bead application? Many thanks
>> again.
>>
>> Jim Bowen
>> RV-8 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
>>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>>>Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 12:50:18 -0800
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Many thanks Mickey - this looks like a very doable process and
>>>the results look great !
>>>
>>>I'm building a 9 - any thoughts on wether the larger dimensions
>>>of my canopy might present additional problems ?
>>>
>>>g
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>Here is a link to my experiences:
>>>>
>>>> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050614184749626
>>>>
>>>>There are 6 articles in total on the canopy.
>>>>
>>>>Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Balch <kbalch(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: FS: Strong parachute] |
SOLD!!
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: FS: Strong parachute
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 13:53:18 -0500
From: Ken Balch <kbalch(at)cfl.rr.com>
For Sale: Strong Para-Cushion Seat 304 emergency parachute. This chute
was used for the flight testing of two RVs (never jumped), and is in
perfect condition. It fits great in the front seats of the RV-8 and the
RV-4. It's navy blue with gray trim and comes with its original Strong
carry bag.
I have no use for it at the moment and would like to see it go to a good
home. The price for a new one is $1545. The first offer of $1300 will
take mine and I'll pay for shipping in the lower 48.
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB (sold, and sorely missed...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electonic ignition options |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Check out the December '05 Issue of Sport Aviation for an interesting
discussion on electronic ignition.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Al Grajek
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 2:48 PM
rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com; vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-List: Electonic ignition options
Listers:
At the risk of starting a huge thread: What are the different types of
ignition systems out there for the I/O 360? Mfg and comments good or bad
for
each?
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8
engine re-build
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Jerry,
I don't think you would want to use ProSeal to attach the canopy. ProSeal
is primarily a sealant, not an adhesive. Although it is quite tenacious, it
is not designed to adhere to plastics or acrylics like the Sikaflex 295 is.
This is too critical and area to use something that is not specifically
designed for that application.
Paul Trotter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 3:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>
>
> Nice log and photos on your site Mickey.
> To those who have worked with both ProSeal and Silka what are the property
> differences after curing? Is one tougher than the other, more rubbery,
> more
> aggressive tackiness from one or the other? Do you think ProSeal would
> glue the canopy well enough to take the place of Silka? How about UV rays
> on ProSeal ... does ProSeal have good weathering characteristics? Could
> ProSeal be the filler of choice on the rail bottom after tacking with a
> small amount of Silka? Does ProSeal flow better than Silka at the same
> temperatures. A lot of questions from one who didn't seal his own tanks.
> Thanks for your answers,
> Regards...
> Jerry Grimmonpre'
> RV8A
>
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 1:51 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>
>
>>
>> Hi Jim,
>>
>> I did run the one bead from the top, but if I were to do it
>> again, I would only run one from the bottom, none on the top.
>> Of course, it is possible it would not look "cool" with only
>> the bead on the bottom, and then I would have to run a
>> cosmetic bead from the top. Not sure. In any case,
>> my bead on the top is about 2x the size it needs to be.
>>
>> You've got it exactly right on the tack beads. Tack, let set,
>> remove the hose spacers, and then run the full bead.
>> That is how I will do it on my next RV, unless I hear
>> from one of you guys that comes up with a better way!
>>
>> Best regards,
>> Mickey
>>
>>
>> JAMES BOWEN wrote:
>>>
>>> Yes thank you Mickey, well done. Questions, did you just run the one
>>> bead
>>> of
>>> Sika from the top of the frame as shown? You don't feel you need to run
>>> another from the bottom side of the frame? Also if you do it the way you
>>> suggest, many small tack type applications first, then after drying come
>>> back and lay up the full bead. Is that the time you would pull the hose
>>> type
>>> spacers, after tacking and before full bead application? Many thanks
>>> again.
>>>
>>> Jim Bowen
>>> RV-8 QB
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
>>>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>>>>Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 12:50:18 -0800
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Many thanks Mickey - this looks like a very doable process and
>>>>the results look great !
>>>>
>>>>I'm building a 9 - any thoughts on wether the larger dimensions
>>>>of my canopy might present additional problems ?
>>>>
>>>>g
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Here is a link to my experiences:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050614184749626
>>>>>
>>>>>There are 6 articles in total on the canopy.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mickey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
In a message dated 01/19/2006 2:53:13 PM Central Standard Time, jerry(at)mc.net
writes:
Do you think ProSeal would
glue the canopy well enough to take the place of Silka?
>>>>>
I used ProSeal to glue the canopy & rear window on my -6A. I also used #4
screws/locknuts along the bottom and rear edges with backup strips but across the
canopy bow and rollbar (tip-up) the ProSeal was all I used with the exception
of two #8 screws at the very top of the canopy bow to hold the relationship
between the plexi and bow as the stuff cured. Result- as soon as it got really
hot the first summer, the plexi pulled away in a couple of places on the
rollbar only- not on the canopy bow (bond between ProSeal and plexi let go)- the
ProSeal bonded better to the painted rollbar than to the plexi, but I didn't
scuff the plexi either- just cleaned it well with naptha and assembled. My
theory is that the canopy bow, being thinner and less rigid than the rollbar, has
a more consistent rate of expansion/contraction with the plexi, or is at least
more resilient and can bend more easily with the plexi than the rollbar can.
It was fairly easy to work with, but I should have added some blackening
agent to it since it cures to a brownish color which is visible through the plexi.
I have since added dark grey trim tape over the joints. The black Sikkaflex
may be a better alternative, but no first-hand experience with it...
Here is a foto that kind of shows the appearance before adding the tape- if
you click on the foto for a larger view, you can barely see some of the
separation on the right side of the picture- the worst separation is a bit lower.
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5419
Mark Phillips - N51PW - 275 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
As I had posted before, ProSeal is the specified sealant for Mooneys
windows, and has been for probably 25 years, after the early 201s had some
corrosion problems from side window leakage.
Paul Trotter said:
>
> Jerry,
>
> I don't think you would want to use ProSeal to attach the canopy. ProSeal
> is primarily a sealant, not an adhesive. Although it is quite tenacious,
> it
> is not designed to adhere to plastics or acrylics like the Sikaflex 295
> is.
> This is too critical and area to use something that is not specifically
> designed for that application.
>
> Paul Trotter
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 3:51 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>
>
>>
>>
>> Nice log and photos on your site Mickey.
>> To those who have worked with both ProSeal and Silka what are the
>> property
>> differences after curing? Is one tougher than the other, more rubbery,
>> more
>> aggressive tackiness from one or the other? Do you think ProSeal would
>> glue the canopy well enough to take the place of Silka? How about UV
>> rays
>> on ProSeal ... does ProSeal have good weathering characteristics? Could
>> ProSeal be the filler of choice on the rail bottom after tacking with a
>> small amount of Silka? Does ProSeal flow better than Silka at the same
>> temperatures. A lot of questions from one who didn't seal his own
>> tanks.
>> Thanks for your answers,
>> Regards...
>> Jerry Grimmonpre'
>> RV8A
>>
>> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 1:51 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Jim,
>>>
>>> I did run the one bead from the top, but if I were to do it
>>> again, I would only run one from the bottom, none on the top.
>>> Of course, it is possible it would not look "cool" with only
>>> the bead on the bottom, and then I would have to run a
>>> cosmetic bead from the top. Not sure. In any case,
>>> my bead on the top is about 2x the size it needs to be.
>>>
>>> You've got it exactly right on the tack beads. Tack, let set,
>>> remove the hose spacers, and then run the full bead.
>>> That is how I will do it on my next RV, unless I hear
>>> from one of you guys that comes up with a better way!
>>>
>>> Best regards,
>>> Mickey
>>>
>>>
>>> JAMES BOWEN wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Yes thank you Mickey, well done. Questions, did you just run the one
>>>> bead
>>>> of
>>>> Sika from the top of the frame as shown? You don't feel you need to
>>>> run
>>>> another from the bottom side of the frame? Also if you do it the way
>>>> you
>>>> suggest, many small tack type applications first, then after drying
>>>> come
>>>> back and lay up the full bead. Is that the time you would pull the
>>>> hose
>>>> type
>>>> spacers, after tacking and before full bead application? Many thanks
>>>> again.
>>>>
>>>> Jim Bowen
>>>> RV-8 QB
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
>>>>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>>>>>Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 12:50:18 -0800
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Many thanks Mickey - this looks like a very doable process and
>>>>>the results look great !
>>>>>
>>>>>I'm building a 9 - any thoughts on wether the larger dimensions
>>>>>of my canopy might present additional problems ?
>>>>>
>>>>>g
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Here is a link to my experiences:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050614184749626
>>>>>>
>>>>>>There are 6 articles in total on the canopy.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Mickey
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Enos II" <rje2(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Great thread. Does anyone know if this has been attempted with a RV7 tip
up?
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> I did run the one bead from the top, but if I were to do it
> again, I would only run one from the bottom, none on the top.
> Of course, it is possible it would not look "cool" with only
> the bead on the bottom, and then I would have to run a
> cosmetic bead from the top. Not sure. In any case,
> my bead on the top is about 2x the size it needs to be.
>
> You've got it exactly right on the tack beads. Tack, let set,
> remove the hose spacers, and then run the full bead.
> That is how I will do it on my next RV, unless I hear
> from one of you guys that comes up with a better way!
>
> Best regards,
> Mickey
>
>
> JAMES BOWEN wrote:
>>
>> Yes thank you Mickey, well done. Questions, did you just run the one bead
>> of
>> Sika from the top of the frame as shown? You don't feel you need to run
>> another from the bottom side of the frame? Also if you do it the way you
>> suggest, many small tack type applications first, then after drying come
>> back and lay up the full bead. Is that the time you would pull the hose
>> type
>> spacers, after tacking and before full bead application? Many thanks
>> again.
>>
>> Jim Bowen
>> RV-8 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
>>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>>>Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 12:50:18 -0800
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Many thanks Mickey - this looks like a very doable process and
>>>the results look great !
>>>
>>>I'm building a 9 - any thoughts on wether the larger dimensions
>>>of my canopy might present additional problems ?
>>>
>>>g
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>Here is a link to my experiences:
>>>>
>>>> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050614184749626
>>>>
>>>>There are 6 articles in total on the canopy.
>>>>
>>>>Mickey
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Has anyone documented any part of the glue approach on their
>>>>>website ... would love to get a sense of your experiences,
>>>>>pitfalls, pros and cons ...
>>>>
>>>--
>>>__g__
>>>
>>>=========================================================
>>>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
>>> Tel: 415 203 9177
>>>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 finishing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
Now that the Holidays are past most of us, we're turning up the heat trying to
get Texas RV'er's both builders and flyers together.
Come join us...!
CenTex_RV_Aircraft-subscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
Darrell Reiley
RV7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR Reserved
---------------------------------
Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Dumb things I have done |
Hi Austin,
I took the liberty to actually archive this fine writing of yours! Please forgive
me, ...but I will bear any and all consequences!
Konrad
Subject: RV-List: Dumb things I have done
Where shall I start ? How far back shall I go ? How many times have my wings
tilted up enough to avert the Big Sleep ?
How long have I kept the secrets to myself alone ?
Strangely, it is from my old instructors whom I feel the wrath would hurt me
most.
Not my spouse, not my heirs, not the FAA, but me, and my old instructors, all
of whom were scarred by their own brushes with real fate and , in some cases
, combat, that I felt the most betrayal of common sense.
My first, I think, was my cross country in low cloud and rain, where 5 of us
took off, and 4 returned, and I pressed on, turned the 60 mile mark and came home.
Not to congratulation, but to scorn and abuse for monumental stupidity.
But then, you see, we had just lost a student from Holland who killed himself
whilst teaching himself aerobatics, and Reg, his instructor was still cut up
inside with the shock and the task of the writing of the letter. So, you see,
he was not in the mood for risk takers, lest he suffer another hurtful memory.
These guys were, to a man, the salt of the Earth, most former combat pilots who
could not say good bye to flying, but would take a job instucting on 100 horses
only, and happily bonk you on the head for a mistake, the better to drive
home a lesson in fate and gravity...and stupidity.
Well, I tried once to take off with the tail still tied down, also taxiing once
with the noise of the tow bar still in place to signal me that pre flight was
not done.
OH, and landing at night at an unlighted strip with car lights showing the way
as to where home was....this with 3 other sods on board who had been imbibing.
How ungracious my exit from the cabin when all the contents of my shirt pocket
fell at the feet of the instructor who wondered how I could be gone for 6 hours
on four hour tanks.
To this day I mourn the loss of those aviator glasses.
Lest I forget, there was the time at dusk in the San Joaquin when I had to land
quickly, and by grace, found a movie lot strip with sage brush kissing the
wing tips on rollout.
My sleepmates that night were a couple of horses who shared the hay and munched
and farted contentedly, and did not step on me once....gentle souls...
The tower guys at San Jose were wonderful to me when I ran after the " follow
me " jeep and up 4 stories to arrive breathless and unable to speak to answer
as to why I had landed on the taxi way...another student from Hayward in the
big city and jet traffic who cannot remember their call sign but say "Roger" to
everything, including a request from tower to do a 180, crash and burn "......yes,
I did it all.
Almost taxied in front of a DC3 taking off in Oregon .....flew into Mexico with
a pal who always begged to be landed, fed, and reassured, but to his credit,
never questioned my navigation, my flying, nor choice of sleeping with horses.
Folks at San Luis Obispo took us home and fed us merely because we let their
4 year old ride along the taxiway with us while we picked a parking spot.
They thought we were students about to enroll at college rather than the scruff
wanderers we really were....and foreigners at that.
Every stop we made, people astounded us with their trust and generosity, giving
us the airport car, and dinner at home, though sadly, never a night with daughter.
Our poor underpowered mount which could not beat the 18 wheelers on the interstate,
nor the mountains of Mexico, made the choice to continue by Super Connie
of Aeronaves an easy choice to make.
Doe eyed hostesses and a wonderful meal made me want to become Spanish, if only
for long enough to understand what " I love you " sounds like in Latin flavor.
Homeward bound was free of stupid choices other than to test how long one could
remain aloft on fumes, and deciding when, in heavy rain, it was time to do
a 180.
We were greeted at home base by a man who owned the school and was a near legend
for his service days.
Smiling and most forgiving of confessions and a pat on the head and a wish that
you live and learn....few like him walk this way...
I learned a few years later that upon his demise while flying something, the
main airport road now bears his name.
But my dumb ways were not over yet, because me, myself, alone, landed at
the $100 hamburger heaven as very low cloud and fog slowly overcame the field.
After the lunch was done and time to head out, was just a bit horrified to find
the system had moved in and taken half the field.
With the last half of the strip still open, the RV taxied into the murk and lined
up for a run to the open.
Should have known that the RV would be airborne so quickly, being light on gas,
weight, and my brains, and was up and into the mist with no gyros.
Climbing with needle and ball and airspeed and compass, I knew I would break
out soon, but it was a very long soon, for here, I thought, be oblivion.
How is it that old lessons can stay with you, unused for decades, and guide you
to salvation ?
It was the old Air Force instructors, gone now, but with me still, a clap on
the head, and forcing me to keep focus.
So there you have it, sins committed and confessed and probably a few more in
the recesses of the logbook.
That book with names of girls not spoken of for 50 years, instructors who are
faces long gone, place names of happy times and adventures, and an old photo
in the folds of the licence so hard won that shows my face as it was so long
ago and is not the one I recognize in the mirror....
"Faint Heart Never Won Fair Lady , Laddie " ! were the words old Reg sent me
solo with....and I can hear them still !
Regards,
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Avionics Stack for Sale |
One of my neighbors has the following for sale:
KX155 - 14v, g/s, with KA209 indicator, trays and harness, recent yellow tag
Apollo GPS - 2001NMS, with antenna and tray, still in box from recent Garmin
service
KMA20 Audio Panel with marker beacon reciever, inlcudes tray, recent yellow
tag
All of the above for $3,950.00
Also
KN65 DME, includes indicator and converter
KR85 ADF complete system including indicator and antennas
Trans Cal SSD120, altitude digitizers (two)
Jim Cullison
503-784-6999
DO NOT ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
There's an RV-4 for sale on http://FunPlacesToFly.com
It's not mine. Thought someone might be interested.
http://www.fun-places-to-fly.com/myclassifieds/details.asp?ID=1629
Smitty's RV-9A
http://SmittysRV.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rock5219" <rer51(at)netscape.ca> |
| Subject: | Gluing Canopy RV9A Tip-up |
Has anyone successfully used SikaFlex to install a tip-up canopy on an RV9A? Can't
find anything in archives. Randy RV9A Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
| Subject: | General coment re instumentation |
I have been on this list since I got Tweetybird, and CPA while I had the cherokee.
Have seen many posts re engine monitors etc. Makes me wonder how we kept em
in the air when all we had was good judgment. Just for the heck of it about
2 yrs ago, I went thru the list of the 14 cherokees I flew in the 60's while
getting my ratings and found that out of 14, 13 were still flying and turns out
the 140 I got my Pvt checkride in at Okc was setting across the ramp from me
at Gwinette co .Also the 1954 Apache I got my multi in (tricky plane) was still
flying. What do they have in common with the RV's? Lycoming engines. Am I
the only lucky Rv driver who can keep her in the air (high time engine) whith
nothing but good judgment? Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--- Jerry Grimmonpre wrote:
>
>
> Do you
> think ProSeal would
> glue the canopy well enough to take the place of
> Silka?
No.
I watched someone (an A&P/IA no less) use Pro-Seal to
glue small plexigalss windows into the cabin top of a
35' sail boat a couple of years ago. Within 6 months,
the Pro-Seal had pulled loose from the plexiglass, and
the windows were leaking. I personally would want to
use a product specifically designed for glueing
plexiglass/acrylic, and not a sealant for this.
Skylor
RV-8 QB
Under Construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
I've just compiled all of the information that I could find in the last
couple of years on the RV-List into a rather long entry on the RV-Wiki.
http://www.rvwiki.org
You can find it by clicking on "Canopy Construction" on the main page. It
has links to the builder's websites that I could find, and text copied from
the RV-List where I couldn't find a builder's website.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | MA4-5 part number request |
Does anyone know the part number for the large copper washer with three bend-over
locking tabs opposite a rotational position locking slot that is used on the
right hand side where the fuel inlet finger screen filter is removed for cleaning?
I want to check mine but ... anyway, carb is a precision airmotive MA4-5.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | MA4-5 part number request |
What's wrong with the old one. You can recondition them by heating to red
hot with a torch and then quenching in water. This will restore the
malleability of the copper. The same trick works on spark plug gaskets.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 1:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: MA4-5 part number request
Does anyone know the part number for the large copper washer with three
bend-over locking tabs opposite a rotational position locking slot that is
used on the right hand side where the fuel inlet finger screen filter is
removed for cleaning? I want to check mine but ... anyway, carb is a
precision airmotive MA4-5.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MA4-5 part number request |
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
With copper, unlike steel or aluminum, quenching makes no difference. You
can let them air cool and get the same results.
Bruce Gray said:
>
> What's wrong with the old one. You can recondition them by heating to red
> hot with a torch and then quenching in water. This will restore the
> malleability of the copper. The same trick works on spark plug gaskets.
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 1:12 PM
> To: rvlist
> Subject: RV-List: MA4-5 part number request
>
>
> Does anyone know the part number for the large copper washer with three
> bend-over locking tabs opposite a rotational position locking slot that is
> used on the right hand side where the fuel inlet finger screen filter is
> removed for cleaning? I want to check mine but ... anyway, carb is a
> precision airmotive MA4-5.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Skylor,
The application sheet for the Sika product specifies an acrylic application,
Direct Glazing Adhesive, however one electronic search I did brought up a page
where Vans and Sika did not recommend use on aircraft canopies. The reason
given was the possibility of improper technique.
My thought is an adhesive rated at 450 psi applied to a canopy will probably
be as strong as aluminum pop rivets.
Sherman Butler
RV-7a, Empennage
Skylor Piper wrote:
No.
I watched someone (an A&P/IA no less) use Pro-Seal to
glue small plexigalss windows into the cabin top of a
35' sail boat a couple of years ago. Within 6 months,
the Pro-Seal had pulled loose from the plexiglass, and
the windows were leaking. I personally would want to
use a product specifically designed for glueing
plexiglass/acrylic, and not a sealant for this.
Skylor
RV-8 QB
Under Construction
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Empennage
---------------------------------
Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: MA4-5 part number request |
In a message dated 1/20/2006 10:13:32 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
dreel(at)cox.net writes:
Does anyone know the part number for the large copper washer with three
bend-over locking tabs opposite a rotational position locking slot that is used
on the right hand side where the fuel inlet finger screen filter is removed
for cleaning? I want to check mine but ... anyway, carb is a precision
airmotive MA4-5.
============================================
16-A48 and they call it a gasket.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 771hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
On 11:35:51 2006-01-20 Sherman Butler wrote:
> The application sheet for the Sika product specifies an acrylic
> application, Direct Glazing Adhesive, however one electronic search I
> did brought up a page where Vans and Sika did not recommend use on
> aircraft canopies. The reason given was the possibility of improper
> technique. My thought is an adhesive rated at 450 psi applied to a
> canopy will probably be as strong as aluminum pop rivets.
Sherman, where did you find the spec of 450 psi? The technical data sheet
for Sikaflex 295UV says 160psi tensile, 250psi shear.
<http://www.sikaindustry.com/tds-ipd-sikaflex295uv-us.pdf>
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
Rob,
That is the data in the jamestown catalog. Perhaps different test protocol?
Sherman Butler
RV-7a, Empennage
"Rob Prior (rv7)" wrote:
>My thought is an adhesive rated at 450 psi applied to a
> canopy will probably be as strong as aluminum pop rivets.
Sherman, where did you find the spec of 450 psi? The technical data sheet
for Sikaflex 295UV says 160psi tensile, 250psi shear.
-Rob
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Empennage
---------------------------------
Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "REHughes" <hawk(at)digisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon |
Beating this dead horse one more (and like you, I hope last) time...
My friend Maurie powered up his new TruTrak ADI on the bench this morning,
and the results of extensive testing are:
1. Tilt the ADI 30 degrees to the side on the bench. After a variable
small transient, the display reverted to the level centered position.
2. Tilt the unit on its side (90 deg roll angle). Same result, washed back
to level, centered and stayed there.
3. Rapid pitch to 20 degrees Nose Up and hold. After a slight upward
transient, went to level centered and stayed there.
Summary: No roll angle or pitch angle information is displayed by the unit.
It is NOT an attitude indicator.
Functionally it seems to be a Turn Coordinator with an integrated VSI.*
* There may be some inputs from roll or pitch acceleration cues used to
"quicken" the display, but they seem to go away as soon as the acceleration
is removed and a steady-state roll angle or pitch angle is established.
Hawkeye
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 1:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon
>
> Thanks to all who replied to my orriginal post. Your input has been very
> helpfull. At present I'm leaning toward the ADI by Trutrack.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5304#5304
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
On 12:30:22 2006-01-20 Sherman Butler wrote:
> That is the data in the jamestown catalog. Perhaps different test
> protocol?
Nope, that's not it. Both the Jamestown page:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/xrefsik295uv.jsp
And the Sikaflex page:
http://www.sikaindustry.com/tds-ipd-sikaflex295uv-us.pdf
List the testing spec. as ASTM D412.
I'll email the Jamestown site and see what they say.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: General coment re instumentation |
Piper, Mooney, Beech..... all just life support for a future RV engine.
charles heathco wrote:
>
> I have been on this list since I got Tweetybird, and CPA while I had the cherokee.
Have seen many posts re engine monitors etc. Makes me wonder how we kept
em in the air when all we had was good judgment. Just for the heck of it about
2 yrs ago, I went thru the list of the 14 cherokees I flew in the 60's while
getting my ratings and found that out of 14, 13 were still flying and turns
out the 140 I got my Pvt checkride in at Okc was setting across the ramp from
me at Gwinette co .Also the 1954 Apache I got my multi in (tricky plane) was
still flying. What do they have in common with the RV's? Lycoming engines. Am
I the only lucky Rv driver who can keep her in the air (high time engine) whith
nothing but good judgment? Charlie Heathco
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent S. Himsl" <vhimsl(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | deburring holes in tight places |
Hello,
There are many places where you just can't use the hand held de burring tool
from Avery. However, the cutting piece unscrews and fits the AVERY <1095 hex
adapter for deburring / c'sink> tool @ $10.00. This in turn fits any
cordless drill. I used it on my quick connect screwdriver bit extension for
a really long reach...in the beginning.
Now I just hit hard to get at places with sandpaper, prime (if necessary)
and move on.
Vince H.
RV8-SB Finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
I am getting close to working on the airfilter and carb heat on my 0360
RV7A. I seem to remember seeing a small heat muff on someones RV for
their carb heat. It is not the one on Van's site. Anybody know what I'm
talking about?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin Avionics Trays |
A data point:
Mounting up a KX-165 (6.25") over a pair of Terra separates (6.3"
overall). An .040 spacer on each side of the KX tray was about right to
make up the difference. It should have taken 2 .025" spacers so maybe
it's a touch over 6.3".
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
The Van's muff that sorta clamps onto one side of a pipe was
ineffective. I bought one from these folks recently:
http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/
It doesn't look like the picture on their website. E-mail or call them
and they'll e-mail you a picture. I think it was about $65. Although
I've yet to try it, it looks like it will work much better.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 8:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Carb Heat?
I am getting close to working on the airfilter and carb heat on my 0360
RV7A. I seem to remember seeing a small heat muff on someones RV for
their carb heat. It is not the one on Van's site. Anybody know what I'm
talking about?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: General coment re instumentation |
Charlie, an interesting comment on reliability or perhaps it is just a
comment on how cheap fuel currently is in the USA (or should I say OPEC),
which has stifled the introduction of better more efficient engines for so
long. Give me instrumentation and reduced fuel burn every time.
Nic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: General coment re instumentation |
On 21 Jan 2006, at 04:43, Nic wrote:
>
> Charlie, an interesting comment on reliability or perhaps it is just a
> comment on how cheap fuel currently is in the USA (or should I say
> OPEC),
> which has stifled the introduction of better more efficient engines
> for so
> long. Give me instrumentation and reduced fuel burn every time.
> Nic
I don't think the engines are the problem. Lycomings and
Continentals have a fairly good specific fuel consumption for
gasoline engines (i.e. how much fuel they burn to make a certain
amount of power). The problem is the airframe. If you want to burn
less fuel to go from point A to point B, you need an airframe that
has less drag. Less drag means the engine needs to produce less
power, which means less fuel burned. The amateur built community has
made a lot of progress in this area, and some of if has trickled
across to the type certificated world.
If we want engines with better specific fuel consumption, we need to
move to diesel engines. But they are heavier for a given power
output, which makes them not so attractive.
Here's an interesting read on fuel burn and power claims from
alternative engine manufacturers:
http://www.sdsefi.com/air8.html
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon |
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Here is another option. Does anyone have any experence with it?
http://www.lightflying.com.au/Stratomaster%20Pages/Artificial%20Horizons%20&%20Compasses.htm
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5657#5657
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon |
I really don't understand this rush to go out and bet your life on untested,
uncertified instrumentation.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Glasgow
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 8:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon
Here is another option. Does anyone have any experence with it?
http://www.lightflying.com.au/Stratomaster%20Pages/Artificial%20Horizons%20&
%20Compasses.htm
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5657#5657
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)speedyquick.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon |
I don't know if you're referring to one particular unit, or new instrument
technology in general, but having had a gyro failure in IMC, I understand it
very well. Also, having had to pay for several vacuum gyro/pump rebuilds I
LOVE having an electronic EFIS and digital engine management system.
Anyone want to buy a complete Rapco vacuum system and AH?
Ed Bundy
> I really don't understand this rush to go out and bet your life
> on untested,
> uncertified instrumentation.
>
> Bruce
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon |
While a transistor or computer chip might have a greater MTBF than
mechanical gyros, The software that drives these new wonders remains, for
the most part, untested. Sure the companies make some rudimentary tests but
nothing like the full DO178 compliant tests required of certificated
electro-whizzys.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Bundy
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 11:04 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon
I don't know if you're referring to one particular unit, or new instrument
technology in general, but having had a gyro failure in IMC, I understand it
very well. Also, having had to pay for several vacuum gyro/pump rebuilds I
LOVE having an electronic EFIS and digital engine management system.
Anyone want to buy a complete Rapco vacuum system and AH?
Ed Bundy
> I really don't understand this rush to go out and bet your life
> on untested,
> uncertified instrumentation.
>
> Bruce
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon |
On 21 Jan 2006, at 11:52, Bruce Gray wrote:
>
> While a transistor or computer chip might have a greater MTBF than
> mechanical gyros, The software that drives these new wonders
> remains, for
> the most part, untested. Sure the companies make some rudimentary
> tests but
> nothing like the full DO178 compliant tests required of certificated
> electro-whizzys.
DO-178 compliance only "ensures" that the software code has correctly
implemented the specification that describes how it should function.
DO-178 compliance does not ensure that the specification is correct
and complete (it attempts to do this, but it fails). I have done
quite a bit of flight testing on aircraft with new systems with
DO-178 compliant code. Most of the problems that we find are due to
problems with the functional specification - i.e. the coder did a
perfect job incorporating a flawed specification. There are often
particular scenarios that the functional specification did not
envision, and this leads to anomalous behaviour.
DO-178 compliant or not, the only way to determine if the system
works correctly is to to a lot of testing, over the full range of
conditions that the system will see in service.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JIM ETCHEVERRY" <ETCHY1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | rv antenna locations |
I am building a 7A and would like to know the antenna locations and type of antennas
used and how well or not well they have worked. For the following. Comm
,Nav, Glideslope,Gps,tranponder and elt. Thanks Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon |
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
I really don't understand this rush to go out and bet your life on untested,
uncertified instrumentation.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
--
There is no rush. Some of us have trashed our gyros doing acro and would like
to find a solid state replacement that fits in the hole in our panels.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5715#5715
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon |
DO178 compliance, faults included, at least insures a known level of
functionality, otherwise, as I've said before, everyone is a beta tester.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 1:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon
On 21 Jan 2006, at 11:52, Bruce Gray wrote:
>
> While a transistor or computer chip might have a greater MTBF than
> mechanical gyros, The software that drives these new wonders
> remains, for
> the most part, untested. Sure the companies make some rudimentary
> tests but
> nothing like the full DO178 compliant tests required of certificated
> electro-whizzys.
DO-178 compliance only "ensures" that the software code has correctly
implemented the specification that describes how it should function.
DO-178 compliance does not ensure that the specification is correct
and complete (it attempts to do this, but it fails). I have done
quite a bit of flight testing on aircraft with new systems with
DO-178 compliant code. Most of the problems that we find are due to
problems with the functional specification - i.e. the coder did a
perfect job incorporating a flawed specification. There are often
particular scenarios that the functional specification did not
envision, and this leads to anomalous behaviour.
DO-178 compliant or not, the only way to determine if the system
works correctly is to to a lot of testing, over the full range of
conditions that the system will see in service.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon |
If you use your airplane for acro why do you need gyros?
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Glasgow
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 1:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon
I really don't understand this rush to go out and bet your life on untested,
uncertified instrumentation.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
--
There is no rush. Some of us have trashed our gyros doing acro and would
like to find a solid state replacement that fits in the hole in our panels.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5715#5715
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv antenna locations |
>I am building a 7A and would like to know the antenna locations and type
>of antennas used and how well or not well they have worked. For the
>following. Comm ,Nav, Glideslope,Gps,tranponder and elt. Thanks Jim
Comm: Bent whip on bottom of fuselage. Works great.
Nav/Glideslope: Archer antenna in wingtip. Seems ok but cannot assure that
there is no body blockage. I am assuming that the GS
is from
that antenna.
GPS: Mine is on the fuselage top behind the slider but many here build a ledge
on the firewall top area and it seems to work ok there (just under the top
cowl)
Transponder: Small one on bottom
ELT: Aft fuselage under empennage fairing but some place it in the cargo area.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon |
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Okay, I get it now. You're on this list just to heckle us, right? Okay I'll humor
ya.. Here's the deal -- few RVers can resist the occasional or even not so
occasional loop, aileron roll, cuban-8, etc., whether or not some of us also
fly IFR in order to get from point A to point B when the clouds are down low.
These are versatile machines, why should the instrumentation be less so?
Randall Henderson
[/quote]
Thanks Randall, I agree totally. What is a Glasair anyway?
Can they go over the top and round and round?
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5752#5752
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv antenna locations |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
ETCHY1(at)comcast.net wrote:
> I am building a 7A and would like to know the antenna locations and type of antennas
used and how well or not well they have worked. For the following. Comm
,Nav, Glideslope,Gps,tranponder and elt. Thanks Jim
I have a Comant bent whip comm ant. centered between the gear legs and works as
advertised.
Like many RV builders I installed the ELT antenna underneath the empennage fairing.
http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/2617/gps20de.jpg
The ELT itself is mounted on a tray tied into the ribs underneath the baggage floor.
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/7508/cabin32xv.jpg
The Garmin 430 GPS locks on quickly and has performed flawlessly with the antenna
located under the upper cowl.
http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/2617/gps20de.jpg
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 106 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5791#5791
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES |
Boy !! ME TOO !!!
I hate fibreglas in any form but we have to suffer through it .
I finally found out about Ploy Fibre "Smooth Prime " ,after I had my
fingers bleeding just from sanding the parts the air sander couldn't reach !!
I really regretted not knowing about "Smooth Prime" sooner. A couple of
coats , with easy sanding & it is done. NO PINHOLES !!!!!!!!
Try it - you'll like it.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES |
Bob:
How much Smooth Prime did you go through? Did a quart do the job or did you
need more than that? I am trying to apply your experience to a 6A cowl.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Darn close to inspection time..
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 7:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES
>
> Boy !! ME TOO !!!
> I hate fibreglas in any form but we have to suffer through it .
> I finally found out about Ploy Fibre "Smooth Prime " ,after I had my
> fingers bleeding just from sanding the parts the air sander couldn't reach
> !!
> I really regretted not knowing about "Smooth Prime" sooner. A couple of
> coats , with easy sanding & it is done. NO PINHOLES !!!!!!!!
> Try it - you'll like it.
>
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> Charleston,Arkansas
> Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES |
Where can you get smooth prime?
Paul
RV8QB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES
>
> Bob:
>
> How much Smooth Prime did you go through? Did a quart do the job or did
> you
> need more than that? I am trying to apply your experience to a 6A cowl.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> Darn close to inspection time..
> Peshtigo, WI
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 7:54 PM
> Subject: RV-List: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES
>
>
> >
> > Boy !! ME TOO !!!
> > I hate fibreglas in any form but we have to suffer through it .
> > I finally found out about Ploy Fibre "Smooth Prime " ,after I had my
> > fingers bleeding just from sanding the parts the air sander couldn't
> > reach
> > !!
> > I really regretted not knowing about "Smooth Prime" sooner. A couple
> > of
> > coats , with easy sanding & it is done. NO PINHOLES !!!!!!!!
> > Try it - you'll like it.
> >
> > Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> > A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> > Charleston,Arkansas
> > Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | service instruction 1305c |
Can anyone tell me where I might find a copy of Lycoming service instruction
1305c on the net? I searched high and low with less than favorable
results.....i'm guessing they must be free... really, after spending 25-35
grand for a motor they should at least give the information away to fix
their mistakes ;]
Steven dinieri
N221rv
N231rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerns25(at)netscape.net |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES |
Here is another area where they RC jet guys have figured it out. There is a product that I have used on 4 radio controlled fiberglass jets made by Bob Violet Models (www.bvmjets.com) that is a paste of sorts that is simply rubbed on, allowed to dry, and then rubbed off using a paper towel. This paste is about the consistency of paste car wax. It works awesome on pinholes and is used before primer. I think it is called "BVM Pinhole filler"...Wow, isn't that creative! One would need to buy a couple cans of it as the cans are relatively small. Like I said, I have used it before and it works very well and is simple and quick. I plan on using this when I do my cowl and other fiberglass parts on my RV7. Just another option out there.
Darin Hawkes
RV7 N619PB res.
Waiting for Wing Kit
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES
Where can you get smooth prime?
Paul
RV8QB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES
>
> Bob:
>
> How much Smooth Prime did you go through? Did a quart do the job or did
> you
> need more than that? I am trying to apply your experience to a 6A cowl.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> Darn close to inspection time..
> Peshtigo, WI
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Oldsfolks(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 7:54 PM
> Subject: RV-List: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES
>
>
> >
> > Boy !! ME TOO !!!
> > I hate fibreglas in any form but we have to suffer through it .
> > I finally found out about Ploy Fibre "Smooth Prime " ,after I had my
> > fingers bleeding just from sanding the parts the air sander couldn't
> > reach
> > !!
> > I really regretted not knowing about "Smooth Prime" sooner. A couple
> > of
> > coats , with easy sanding & it is done. NO PINHOLES !!!!!!!!
> > Try it - you'll like it.
> >
> > Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> > A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> > Charleston,Arkansas
> > Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
http://mail.netscape.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES |
> Boy !! ME TOO !!!
> I hate fibreglas in any form but we have to suffer through it .
> I finally found out about Ploy Fibre "Smooth Prime " ,after I had my
> fingers bleeding just from sanding the parts the air sander couldn't reach
!!
> I really regretted not knowing about "Smooth Prime" sooner. A couple of
> coats , with easy sanding & it is done. NO PINHOLES !!!!!!!!
> Try it - you'll like it.
>
Unfortunately, I didn't have the same results as Bob. I ended up sanding
almost all of the Smooth Prime off of my fiberglass parts and lost about a
week of work doing it. I ended up using a fast fill primer made by the same
company that made the rest of my finishing products. It may have been
DuPont; but, it may also have been PPG. I'm sure all of them make a fast
fill primer. While spraying this thick primer on, I could spread it into
the pin holes nicely with my fingers and filled them easily in a couple of
coats. The nice thing is that the stuff is compatible with the rest of the
paint, can fill in minor dings easily, is wet sandable (which was the
problem I had with Smooth Prime), can fill up to 1/16" thick, and does not
seem to run. I'll be using the same primer, this time. I seem to have a
few dings to fill. :-(
Others have had very good luck with Smooth Prime; but, you do have other
choices
that may be more easily obtained.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Skinning wings, etc.)
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | General coment re instumentation |
Kevin, You may be right and the Lycoming developed many years ago is the
Zenith of light aviation engines, but I doubt it, and quoting figures in
this present context is missing the point.
Fuel prices in the short to medium term will continue to rise in the 21st
century as China's expansion accelerates and it becomes the dominant nation
in the world, and the US struggles with its highest budget deficit since
WWII.
Low fuel prices have been sustained in the western world by economic and
military means for decades, but this era is coming to an end. My argument is
that our trusty old Lycomings have been more than adequate in this context,
but we all know that development has been slow as a result.
Against a background of higher fuel prices in Europe most consumers look for
fuel efficiency as a priority when selecting a vehicle, and cars with modern
Turbo Diesels have great economy of 50mpg+ and great torque, these were
developed specifically to provide the consumer with improved economy. Very
few people in Europe would consider a vehicle that only gives 20mpg !
Of course we don't need modern instrumentation to fly from A to B, but given
that we are reliant on our trusty old Lycosaurs, I think that having good
modern instrumentation adds reliability and maximises the use of our dated
power plants whilst also saving valuable resources.
Nic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark & Lisa" <marknlisa(at)hometel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
Bruce,
Why can't the same be said of the "latest crop of electronic game screens"?
If I develop and execute a throrough test program, like the one you used for
your aircraft, can't I determine a product's usefulness for my purposes? I
can place the instrument in all the likely situations I might find myself in
given my flying mission and see how it reacts. If it works, fine, if not,
try something else. Isn't this what manufacturers like Chelton and Avidyne
do? I thought we are building experimental aircraft here, why shouldn't we
experiment?
Mark & Lisa Sletten
Legacy FG N828LM
http://www.legacyfgbuilder.com
The only thing left to test, after your FAA inspection
(which is to insure no parts are going to fall off), is the
airworthiness of
the beast. That can be determined in the standard 25/40 hour test
period. If
you built a known kit your chances of success are good, if it's your
own
design you did on the back of a napkin, don't fly over my house.
The same cannot be said for the latest crop of electronic game
screens.
They're untested, uncertified, and just plane dangerous for all except
strictly VFR airplanes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Jeff,
I built a glass airplane and "Smooth Prime" is the best pin hole
filler. Its water based and is rolled on with a small foam roller. You
will roll on several 4 to 6 layers of smooth prime only to sand it off.
The stuff drys quickly ( in several hours in the warm south) and allows
you to put on at least two applications a day. The key is when your
done, let the items you filled "dry" for several weeks before painting.
You can use aux heat to speed it up. The reason is to remove the water
left in the smooth prime after finishing. Then you can paint it. I
recommend you use a misting of black lacquer to provide an indicator of
how you have left the surface. If any paint is left on the surface
after sanding, you did not sand that area. So more smooth prime is added
to raise the lower surface. It leaves a very nice surface. You can
become quite anal on how nice you want the surface to look. In other
words, "more is better, too much is enough"
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Poly fiver is the supplier of "Smooth Prime"
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
Good question, if you talk to the BMA, Dynon, etc low cost non certified
EFIS guys, they all say, "yep, we tested for that." When you try to get more
specific about their testing programs, the answers start getting more vague.
Did you do DO160/DO178 testing? "No" they answer but our product will meet
the specs they say. The cost of meeting the specs of DO160/178 testing is
expensive. Performing the tests is not. However the cost to re-engineer the
faults the testing uncovers is expensive. The DO160/178 requirement is the
major hurdle to cross for certification. If all these manufacturers were so
damn sure their products would pass, why didn't they test and certify them?
It would give them a leg up on the competition. The real reason is that
they, in all probability, would fail the testing.
You can bet your life on any piece of equipment you desire or make. Just
remember, our friendly FAA makes it's rules based on body count.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark & Lisa
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified Artificial Horizon
Uncertified
Bruce,
Why can't the same be said of the "latest crop of electronic game screens"?
If I develop and execute a throrough test program, like the one you used for
your aircraft, can't I determine a product's usefulness for my purposes? I
can place the instrument in all the likely situations I might find myself in
given my flying mission and see how it reacts. If it works, fine, if not,
try something else. Isn't this what manufacturers like Chelton and Avidyne
do? I thought we are building experimental aircraft here, why shouldn't we
experiment?
Mark & Lisa Sletten
Legacy FG N828LM
http://www.legacyfgbuilder.com
The only thing left to test, after your FAA inspection
(which is to insure no parts are going to fall off), is the
airworthiness of
the beast. That can be determined in the standard 25/40 hour test
period. If
you built a known kit your chances of success are good, if it's your
own
design you did on the back of a napkin, don't fly over my house.
The same cannot be said for the latest crop of electronic game
screens.
They're untested, uncertified, and just plane dangerous for all except
strictly VFR airplanes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES |
Thanks Jim. I have heard that guys have had trouble getting rid of
pinholes, so your advice is appreciated.
Regards,
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES
>
> Jeff,
> I built a glass airplane and "Smooth Prime" is the best pin hole
> filler. Its water based and is rolled on with a small foam roller. You
> will roll on several 4 to 6 layers of smooth prime only to sand it off.
> The stuff drys quickly ( in several hours in the warm south) and allows
> you to put on at least two applications a day. The key is when your
> done, let the items you filled "dry" for several weeks before painting.
> You can use aux heat to speed it up. The reason is to remove the water
> left in the smooth prime after finishing. Then you can paint it. I
> recommend you use a misting of black lacquer to provide an indicator of
> how you have left the surface. If any paint is left on the surface
> after sanding, you did not sand that area. So more smooth prime is added
> to raise the lower surface. It leaves a very nice surface. You can
> become quite anal on how nice you want the surface to look. In other
> words, "more is better, too much is enough"
>
>
> Jim
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES |
www.polyfiber.com/uvsmooth/
Darrell
Paul Rice wrote:
Where can you get smooth prime?
Paul
RV8QB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear"
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES
>
> Bob:
>
> How much Smooth Prime did you go through? Did a quart do the job or did
> you
> need more than that? I am trying to apply your experience to a 6A cowl.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> Darn close to inspection time..
> Peshtigo, WI
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 7:54 PM
> Subject: RV-List: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES
>
>
> >
> > Boy !! ME TOO !!!
> > I hate fibreglas in any form but we have to suffer through it .
> > I finally found out about Ploy Fibre "Smooth Prime " ,after I had my
> > fingers bleeding just from sanding the parts the air sander couldn't
> > reach
> > !!
> > I really regretted not knowing about "Smooth Prime" sooner. A couple
> > of
> > coats , with easy sanding & it is done. NO PINHOLES !!!!!!!!
> > Try it - you'll like it.
> >
> > Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> > A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> > Charleston,Arkansas
> > Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Photo Books. You design it and well bind it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)speedyquick.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
At the risk of wasting bandwidth or encouraging you further, I have to
wonder exactly what you are trying to accomplish.
Personally, I think Glasair's are fine airplanes. However your comments are
a little silly. Sure, I'll race you, but we get to factor in the difference
in fuel bills and MPG once we get there. Outside loops? Ugh, no thanks.
But lets head over to some of the incredible mountain airstrips in my neck
of the woods. One of my favorites is 1500' long, sort of rough, and has
water on both ends. Also, if there are 1200 Glasairs flying as the factory
claims (is there still a factory? They've "restructured" so many times I'm
not sure) why is it that I rarely catch a glimpse of one? I guess they're
so fast it just makes them seem elusive. By contrast, with "only" 3.5x as
many RV's flying I see them at virtually every airport I visit.
Anyway, my point is that all airplanes have their uses and supporters, pros
and cons, and everyone makes their choice based on personal preference. Do
you really think that you are going to convert anyone on the RV LIST? Or
are you just trolling? Or perhaps they kicked you off the Glasair list.
Anyway, if you're ever out in the Boise area, I'd love to go for a ride, and
I'd be happy to reciprocate. Then I'll buy you a beer, and we can have a
good-natured discussion of our findings.
Ed Bundy
> Would you like to race? Or perhaps try an outside loop? How about
> a vertical
> cuban eight? Or fly your next trip at 240 KTAS.
>
> Bruce
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
Digest: 20 Msgs - 12/23/04
The only reason ACS has the powder is that I requested they look into
carrying it due to the extreme cost of the liquid. ACS was only able to
get it in that huge quantity, but the plan was for them to re-package
it. They apparently didn't understand that it is hazmat, and once they
read the MSDS refused to repackage it. So they're stuck with it.
I ended up buying from Eldorado Chemicals, and was able to get 5 lbs of
powder (comes in a 1 gal paint can) for $87. You still pay the $20 UPS
hazmat charge on top of the regular shipping, but when you do the math
it is still phenomenally cheaper than buying the liquid. 5lb is more
than enough to do an entire airplane, and I'll probably have some left
over.
PJ
"Charlie Kuss RV-List Digest":
chaztuna(at)adelphia.net wrote:
>
> Pat,
> I would not recommend that any RV builder buy their Alodine (or Iridite
> or Dorado Kote 1) from ACS. To expensive. What is not factored into your
> equation, is the HazMat shipping charges you incur, when you order liquid
> chromic acid or phosphoric acid compounds from ANY vendor.
> Will those who have ordered liquid Alodine from ACS please pipe up here?
> I know that the shipping charges have been surprising. A number of builders
> have commented on that fact, on list, in the past. When I started my 8A
> project, I purchased a liquid equivalent of Alodine (marketed by PPG &
> DuPont) from my local automotive paint store. They charged between $21-$27
> per liquid gallon. (they had to pay the HazMat shipping fees).
> Allied Plating Supply will sell you 10 pounds of MacDirmid's Iridite 14-2
> powder for $166. That the same as what I would pay for 6.5 gallons of
> liquid, locally. The other factor is that liquid chromic acids have a shelf
> life and are photochemically reactive. My experience is that about 18-24
> months is the longest the liquid will be viable. Don't use this stuff (or
> store it for that matter) in sunlight. It will be ruined in one use. The
> powder will keep for up to 5 years, if kept dry. With the powder, you can
> mix only the amount needed. You can split the cost with two other builders,
> as 30 - 40 gallons will allow you to treat even the largest parts of your
> project by "dipping".
> I know other methods of application can be used, but they tend to be
> inferior (in my experience and that of all my buddies) to dipping the parts
> prior to priming. If you are building a QB and intend to spray or sponge
> the chromic acid compound on the completed aircraft, prior to paint, then
> purchasing the liquid will be more economical. I would suggest that the
> listers check with their local automotive paint supply store for these
> chemicals before ordering it from ACS. No wait and the price will be
> similar when the HazMAT shipping is factored in. I've never been charged
> for HazMat shipping when I purchased the powder. Even for a builder in the
> boonies, I think you could arrange a "group purchase" of 10 pounds of the
> powder and save money. One person would simply have to take delivery and
> distribute to the others. Just my opinion and worth what you paid for it! :-)
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
>>
>> True enough, especially if you need 100+ gallons. Or if you have enough
>> friends that you can share it out, which really helps the expense. However,
>> for those of us unfortunate enough to live in the 'boonies', it makes more
>> sense to buy the liquid. Yes, the material cost is higher but the bottom
>> line is lower. By the way, when I 'did the math', I used the actual price,
>> which is $15-16 per gallon liquid vs. $858 for 60 lbs powder (Aircraft
>> Spruce's only listed quantity for powder.) Fortunately for Ron, there is
>> someone fairly nearby that can help him out.
>>
>> Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Muddling through without a builder's group, etc.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
>> RV-List Digest : chaztuna(at)adelphia.net
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: Liquid versus powdered Alodine or Iridite was RV-List: Re:
>> RV-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 12/23/04
>>
>> --> RV-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 12/23/04
>>
>> Pat,
>> At $1.66 per gallon for powder versus $20 to $27 per gallon liquid, there
>> is NO good deal on liquid Alodine or Iridite. Do the math. Even buying 10
>> pounds (minumum purchase quantity for powder. Enough to make 100
>> - 130 gallons) of Iridite 14-2 at $166 is a better deal than buying 4-5
>> gallons of liquid at the prices above.
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Aircraft Spruce has powdered alodine, but it's in a huge quantity. For
>>> a more reasonable amount and cost, I had good luck with the liquid stuff.
>>>
>>> Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Flagstaff, AZ
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Burden
>>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 12/23/04
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi List,
>>>
>>> I am a new builder (RV7A empennage) in Cottonwood, AZ. I have been
>>> unable to locate a reasonable source for powdered Alodine or Iridite
>>> 14-2. If any of you have some left over from your project that you
>>> would like to sell and are within a few hours drive of northern Arizona,
>>>
>> please let me know.
>>
>>> Thanks in advance for your help,
>>>
>>> Ron
>>> crb@commspeed .net
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Avionics Trays |
You can see how I did mine here:
http://members.hopkinsville.net/bhester/FinishKitAssyPg2.htm
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
>
>
> Ok folks ya got my attention:
>
> Since I'm just about to mount my trays I have a few questions. I bought an
> Apollo (UPS Aviation Technologies) stack (Audio, SL-30, GX-65 and SL-70)
> about a year or two before they merged with Garmin. Now I'm finally
> finishing the panel and about to install the trays. My ruler says that
> 3 of
> the trays are exactly 6 1/4 inches wide. The audio panel tray however
> (SL-10MS, actually a PS Engineering PMA 6000 with Apollo bezel), is about
> 1/32 wider. So....we been discussing the 6.25 vs 6.3 inch width issue here
> and I obviously can't install the mounting rails at 6.25 inches apart
> or I'm
> not going to be able to fit the audio panel in.
>
> What has everyone been doing for mounting rails for these trays? My
> plan is
> to use 1/16 aluminum angle (flush) riveted to the back of the instrument
> panel cutout at the tray's width apart. Is this a good plan or do you
> recommend doing something else (I already looked at Radio Rax, too
> spendy)?
> Is there a standard distance between the two rails that will allow me
> to add
> new radio technology later? If I make the rails 6.3 inches apart do I just
> add shims between the rails and the other (6.25 inch) trays? What do the
> avionics shops do? How do I mount the trays to the rail? I see two holes
> in the front and back (sides) of the trays, does one just match drill the
> rails to these holes and install screws and nuts? Do I need to use a flush
> head screw inside the tray to allow the radios to slide in? Or....is there
> a special fastener I use here?
>
> Tray position forward and aft. I heard some rumblings about the 480 not
> seating. Are we trying to get the back of the bezels to just touch the
> surface of the instrument panel (nicest looking installation) or do they
> need to stick out a little bit so we don't have seating problems? Is there
> a standard way to do this or do I just have to fiddle around with it until
> things match up? Should I slot the mounting holes in the aluminum rails a
> little to provide some wiggle room?
>
> I'm thinking that I'll make both the radio stack cutout in the panel
> and the
> aluminum rails the full height of the RV-6 panel. That way I can just make
> covers that I can remove later if I want to change radios and/or add
> something like the G430 or MX-20. I was also thinking that I should drill
> holes in the aluminum angle rails above and below my current stack to
> facilitate easy install of new trays later. Is there a standard dimension
> between the holes on the trays or between trays that I can use that will
> facilitate this (ie. Can I just drill holes in the mounting rails every
> inch)? Or is this just wishful thinking and I'll have to endure the
> pain of
> trying to do this later with the panel in the plane (yuck)? Any other
> words
> of wisdom on installing the radio stack? Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Enjoying systems install after spending (8+) years as a tin-smith.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Richmond" <steveandchris353(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial HorizonArtificial Horizon |
I've been flying with the Dynon D10A for a year and I love it. I still have the
vacuum attitude gyro. I'm a belt & suspenders kinda guy. I hope I never have
to revert to my turn and bank. Steve in TX RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES |
So after putting on 3 or 4 coats of primer, do I sand it down or leave it
sit for a couple of weeks before misting on the lacquer?
Is the lacquer being used as the indicator for high/low spots?
When doing wheel pants or any very curved parts, whats the best way to sand
them? Ive been using a wall board sander with a rubber mat you get at any
hardware store. Ive been using no finer than 100 grit, hoping the high
build primer will cover the sanding marks. I was told to try and use the
largest sanding block you can for evenness, although I have a feeling Im
going to have to use my palm for the final sanding.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES
>
> Jeff,
> I built a glass airplane and "Smooth Prime" is the best pin hole
> filler. Its water based and is rolled on with a small foam roller. You
> will roll on several 4 to 6 layers of smooth prime only to sand it off.
> The stuff drys quickly ( in several hours in the warm south) and allows
> you to put on at least two applications a day. The key is when your
> done, let the items you filled "dry" for several weeks before painting.
> You can use aux heat to speed it up. The reason is to remove the water
> left in the smooth prime after finishing. Then you can paint it. I
> recommend you use a misting of black lacquer to provide an indicator of
> how you have left the surface. If any paint is left on the surface
> after sanding, you did not sand that area. So more smooth prime is added
> to raise the lower surface. It leaves a very nice surface. You can
> become quite anal on how nice you want the surface to look. In other
> words, "more is better, too much is enough"
>
>
> Jim
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
I have no axe to grind, I think RV's are great airplanes, someone else just
started tweaking my fiber glass nose though.
What I was trying to accomplish, was this. I was trying to dampen some of
the enthusiasm for all this low cost glass by pointing out the risks
involved. You, or anyone else, can fly whatever panel you like. Just
understand the ramifications and limitations of your decisions.
That's all. Now, with a collective sigh of relief heard from all, I'm done
with this topic.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Bundy
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 10:05 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified
At the risk of wasting bandwidth or encouraging you further, I have to
wonder exactly what you are trying to accomplish.
Personally, I think Glasair's are fine airplanes. However your comments are
a little silly. Sure, I'll race you, but we get to factor in the difference
in fuel bills and MPG once we get there. Outside loops? Ugh, no thanks.
But lets head over to some of the incredible mountain airstrips in my neck
of the woods. One of my favorites is 1500' long, sort of rough, and has
water on both ends. Also, if there are 1200 Glasairs flying as the factory
claims (is there still a factory? They've "restructured" so many times I'm
not sure) why is it that I rarely catch a glimpse of one? I guess they're
so fast it just makes them seem elusive. By contrast, with "only" 3.5x as
many RV's flying I see them at virtually every airport I visit.
Anyway, my point is that all airplanes have their uses and supporters, pros
and cons, and everyone makes their choice based on personal preference. Do
you really think that you are going to convert anyone on the RV LIST? Or
are you just trolling? Or perhaps they kicked you off the Glasair list.
Anyway, if you're ever out in the Boise area, I'd love to go for a ride, and
I'd be happy to reciprocate. Then I'll buy you a beer, and we can have a
good-natured discussion of our findings.
Ed Bundy
> Would you like to race? Or perhaps try an outside loop? How about
> a vertical
> cuban eight? Or fly your next trip at 240 KTAS.
>
> Bruce
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interesting reading... |
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Thanks Bill, that is very interesting reading.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5905#5905
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
The author of the origional thread has a very limited, narrow view of things.
Just because something is "certified" does not make it better or safer. That
kind of backwards thinking just hindres progress.
And yes, having a moving map IS safer, as it increases situational awareness.
There are many many dead people that have flown into terrain that would have lived
had they had a moving map display. Failures of people are much more common
than failures of moving map displays. For safety, I would take the best moving
map display with terrain displayed over "certified" round dials and vacuum
pumps any day.
Vacuum pumps are famous for failing, their antique design is very limited and they
fail more much more often than pizo-electric gyros. Only a complete moron
with the inability to adapt to anything new would say something is safer just
because it is "certified".
Michael A. Bigelow
--------
NO FEAR - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5912#5912
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Bruce(at)glasair.org wrote:
> I really don't understand this rush to go out and bet your life on untested,
> uncertified instrumentation.
>
> Bruce
>
The author of the origional thread has a very limited, narrow view of things. Just
because something is "certified" does not make it better or safer. That kind
of backwards thinking just hindres progress. There is obviously stuff out
there that works, and stuff out there that does not. Its just a matter if having
the skill and intelligence to chose good equipment. Having a sticker that
says "certified" does not make something better, it just makes idiots feel better.
And yes, having a moving map IS safer than "certified" vacuum guages, as it increases
situational awareness. There are many many dead people that have flown
into terrain that would have lived had they had a moving map display. Failures
of people are much more common than failures of moving map displays. For safety,
I would take the best moving map display with terrain displayed over "certified"
round dials and vacuum pumps any day.
I would take a good electronic Horizon over a "certified" vacuum pump horizon any
day. Vacuum pumps are famous for failing, their antique design is very limited
and they fail more much more often than pizo-electric gyros. Only a complete
moron with the inability to adapt to anything new would say something is safer
just because it is "certified".
Michael A. Bigelow
--------
NO FEAR - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5917#5917
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Uncertified Artificial Horizon |
In a message dated 1/22/2006 6:12:13 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Bruce(at)glasair.org writes:
If all these manufacturers were so
damn sure their products would pass, why didn't they test and certify them?
It would give them a leg up on the competition.
Bruce,
The reason that manufacturers don't do it is that it costs a huge amount of
money and once you do it limits your ability to make improvements to the
product.
We have been in the middle of certifying the AOA for over three years now.
We have passed DO-160 testing and we should have our first STC in the spring.
It has cost well over $75,000 to get it certified. We have made a number
of improvements to the AOA since we started certification and we currently are
selling the AOA Sport 3. The certified AOA Sport 1 unit that we could
start selling this summer is 3 generations old and is not as good as the one that
we make today, but it will be =E2=80=9CCertified=E2=80=9D. The paper work alone
will add
a major amount of cost to each unit that we sell and to be honest most people
are not willing to pay for it.
You forgot the really big benefit that you get once you start selling a
certified product. You are assured that you will be sued for every airplane
crash no madder what caused it. We currently have a customer that wants to
install a large number of AOA=E2=80=99s in Cessna Caravans. They have three Caravans
flying with the AOA and =E2=80=9Cmust have it=E2=80=9D. You would not even
believe the
conversations I have had with my insurance company over this one=E2=80=A6.
Cessna, Cirrus, ect=E2=80=A6 would tell you exactly the same thing about airframes
as you have said about avionics. There is no way that Lancair, Vans, or
Glassair have done the paper work and testing that the certified manufactures
have had to do. Does this automatically mean that a new RV-10 is not as safe
as a Cirrus? I don=E2=80=99t think so, and I can=E2=80=99t wait to load my family
in my
RV-10 with my uncertified EFIS , Engine Monitor, and AOA. I would also argue
that my RV-10 will be safer because of them.
Every year I have someone stop by the booth and tell me that our uncertified
product has saved their life. How many people would not be here today if
they had waited to install a certified instrument? How much higher would the
insurance that you pay be? I would bet that way more lives are saved because
of affordable, uncertified avionics.
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES |
----- Original Message -----
From: <sears(at)searnet.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 3:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES
>
>> Boy !! ME TOO !!!
>> I hate fibreglas in any form but we have to suffer through it .
>> I finally found out about Ploy Fibre "Smooth Prime " ,after I had my
>> fingers bleeding just from sanding the parts the air sander couldn't
>> reach
> !!
>> I really regretted not knowing about "Smooth Prime" sooner. A couple of
>> coats , with easy sanding & it is done. NO PINHOLES !!!!!!!!
>> Try it - you'll like it.
>>
>
> Unfortunately, I didn't have the same results as Bob. I ended up sanding
> almost all of the Smooth Prime off of my fiberglass parts and lost about a
> week of work doing it. , is wet sandable (which was the
> problem I had with Smooth Prime),
> Others have had very good luck with Smooth Prime; but, you do have other
> choices
> that may be more easily obtained.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
Jim, glad you made the statement about smooth prime not being wet sandable.
It is not wet sandable. It MUST be dry sanded as the directions on the can
state.
This has been reported and in the archives a year or three back. Good point
to restate it. I used it and liked it. Recommended to me by a person I
consider to be close to an expert on this type of work. Works great with
super fil if you have larger areas to fill in.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up 78 hours
"Please use the information and opinions I express with responsibility, and
at your own risk."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Certified!! Yea, that's why I fly an experimental. 205 mph on 160-hp, 7-8 gph,
sport acro, light IFR, cross country, 30 minute local evening fun flights...
and it's something I built, I maintain and paid less than $45,000 for. Yea
- find something FAA certified that fits that bill! [Rolling Eyes] You can't,
because federal oversight of general aviation stifles creativity, inflates costs
and slows progress.
Is that a certified plastic airplane you credit yourself with there, Bruce? [Wink]
Bryan Jones RV-8
Houston Texas
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5930#5930
________________________________________________________________________________
Cc: Gerry Filby
| From: | Kevin Hester <kevinh-unfiltered(at)sneakyfrog.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gluing canopies - a few more notes |
Hi,
Various other posters have already covered most points, but since I've
done the adhesive canopy thing I'd like to add a few notes:
* Thanks to Chalkie for getting this great idea started with his Sport
Aviation article
* Sika is a bit of a pain to work with, but no where nearly as nasty as
proseal. If I had it to do over again, there's no way I'd even
consider using pop rivets.
* I really like that with Sika your canopy mates right up with your
windscreen - no need to make the fiberglass lip
* Before applying the black primer to the plexi, be very careful about
masking (duh)
* Rough up the rollbar powdercoat pretty good before applying the sika
prep clear fluid to it.
* Also apply masking tape to the rollbar where you don't want any sika
to stick.
* The clear sika prep fluid will slightly roughen any plexi that it is
allowed to sit on for an extended time. Either use masking to protect
against this (particularly when doing the canopy frame with the plexy
upside down over the table) or when you screw up wipe up excess with a
paper towel. It is a very slight effect but noticeable if you look at
the right angle.
* Although Sika says it is dry within a day(?), it really takes a few
weeks before it is as strong as it is ever going to be. When I did
some test pieces I was initially a bit concerned with the strength of
the bond but two weeks later it reached the point where I was breaking
plexy before sika would come off. (Not a very scientific test though).
* Use this 'slow dry' property to your advantage - if you need to
mechanically remove any sika that squeezes past masking tape, it is
much easier to do this the day after the lay-up than a week later.
* I had one helper for the actual bonding day of the windscreen to the
rollbar, I'd recommend two helpers. ;-)
* If you are doing sika, you probably want to make your aft skirt out
of fiberglass rather than aluminum. The fiberglass skirt only takes a
day to make and you can bond it with sika as well - no pop rivets
through the plexi and the frame.
* Like anything - doing it the first time takes _much_ longer. If you
can find someone local who's done it, buy em with beer to come help on
windscreen bonding day (canopy bonding is way easier). I'm happy to
help any SF Bay Area builder who decides to go this way...
(I think the current GLO custom photos on the VAF homepage show my
crummy masking job - fortunately Sika is paintable (and Grady friggen
rocks), so I've now decided that my rollbar should be black to match
the top of my plane)
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
You can get "Smooth Prime " from Aircraft Spruce. Look in the fibreglas
section of their catalog - not in paint & primer.
Mix it in small (2 oz.) or so batches, it goes a long way and is too
expensive to waste.
Prepare for a snow storm in the shop,it sands off in lots of white stuff.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Wingtip has twist |
Hi Listers, looking for a bit of advice. My -6 wingtip appears to have a
bit of a twist in it preventing me from getting it installed as I would like
Here are the observed conditions.
- At the leading edge the wingtip is flat with the top of the wing.
- At the trailing edge the wingtip is flared up a bit.
- I have the wingtip nicely fit and clecoed into the top of the wing all
along it's edge.
- The wingtip fits snug into the leading edge of the wing
- As you travel back along the bottom of the join, the wingtip will not go
into the wing all the way.
- with considerable pressure you can twist it in about a 1/6th of an inch at
the most.
The question: Can the wingtip be heated in enough of an area to allow me to
reshape it? What other suggestions might one have in this situation?
Thanks for any help
Tim
N616TB Registerd, not flying - but soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21(at)london.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Gluing canopies - a few more notes |
Kevin - thanks for posting that. Some useful additional points.
A question. If the Sika does go in the wrong place what is the solvent that
will move it or is it only removable mechanically?
No one has mentioned that....or perhaps I havnt noticed. Thanks, Steve.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Hester" <kevinh-unfiltered(at)sneakyfrog.com>
Cc: "Gerry Filby"
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 7:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Gluing canopies - a few more notes
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Various other posters have already covered most points, but since I've
> done the adhesive canopy thing I'd like to add a few notes:
>
> * Thanks to Chalkie for getting this great idea started with his Sport
> Aviation article
> * Sika is a bit of a pain to work with, but no where nearly as nasty as
> proseal. If I had it to do over again, there's no way I'd even
> consider using pop rivets.
> * I really like that with Sika your canopy mates right up with your
> windscreen - no need to make the fiberglass lip
> * Before applying the black primer to the plexi, be very careful about
> masking (duh)
> * Rough up the rollbar powdercoat pretty good before applying the sika
> prep clear fluid to it.
> * Also apply masking tape to the rollbar where you don't want any sika
> to stick.
> * The clear sika prep fluid will slightly roughen any plexi that it is
> allowed to sit on for an extended time. Either use masking to protect
> against this (particularly when doing the canopy frame with the plexy
> upside down over the table) or when you screw up wipe up excess with a
> paper towel. It is a very slight effect but noticeable if you look at
> the right angle.
> * Although Sika says it is dry within a day(?), it really takes a few
> weeks before it is as strong as it is ever going to be. When I did
> some test pieces I was initially a bit concerned with the strength of
> the bond but two weeks later it reached the point where I was breaking
> plexy before sika would come off. (Not a very scientific test though).
> * Use this 'slow dry' property to your advantage - if you need to
> mechanically remove any sika that squeezes past masking tape, it is
> much easier to do this the day after the lay-up than a week later.
> * I had one helper for the actual bonding day of the windscreen to the
> rollbar, I'd recommend two helpers. ;-)
> * If you are doing sika, you probably want to make your aft skirt out
> of fiberglass rather than aluminum. The fiberglass skirt only takes a
> day to make and you can bond it with sika as well - no pop rivets
> through the plexi and the frame.
> * Like anything - doing it the first time takes _much_ longer. If you
> can find someone local who's done it, buy em with beer to come help on
> windscreen bonding day (canopy bonding is way easier). I'm happy to
> help any SF Bay Area builder who decides to go this way...
>
> (I think the current GLO custom photos on the VAF homepage show my
> crummy masking job - fortunately Sika is paintable (and Grady friggen
> rocks), so I've now decided that my rollbar should be black to match
> the top of my plane)
>
> Kevin
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
> This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System
> on behalf of the London Business School community.
> For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
>
> --
> 20/01/2006
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
Cc:
Group,
At 12:10 today another RV6-A took it's first flight from 10G-Holmes
Co. I made a couple of laps to make sure everything was within perimeters and
went South for ZZV-Zanesville and shot my first landing on runway 4. Smooth....no
problems.
After a snickers bar I flew back to 10G at 20 Squared and indicated
airspeed of 160 Kts. No heavy wing, no rudder tab needed!! I want to thank Vince
Welch for always having the right tool when I needed to borrow one and his
advice. Thanks to Keith Embry for his transition training which made this first
flight safe and uneventful.
Keep pounding those rivets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tom 362CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Congratulations Tom & Cathy !!! Perfect day for it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flying RV7 for sale ???? |
| From: | "aflyer" <aflyer(at)lazy8.net> |
Does anyone have or know of a flying RV7 for sale?
I have a friend looking for one.
Thanks, John
rv8 at lazy8.net
--------
Life is too short to run lean of peak.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5960#5960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip has twist |
Tim,
My RV-6A had a similar problem. The fiberglass tip fit and was even with
the wing everywhere but near the trailing edge. I ended up taking a hack
saw and slitting between the two halves of the tip at the trailing edge up
about 9-12" along the seam. I could then squeeze the two halves so that
they fit under the wing sheet metal. This had about 1-2" of the lower half
of the wing tip rear sticking out further than the top. I simply cut it off
even with the top and then fiberglass the two halves of the trailing edges
back together for a "near" perfect fit.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 5:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wingtip has twist
>
>
> Hi Listers, looking for a bit of advice. My -6 wingtip appears to have a
> bit of a twist in it preventing me from getting it installed as I would
> like
> Here are the observed conditions.
> - At the leading edge the wingtip is flat with the top of the wing.
> - At the trailing edge the wingtip is flared up a bit.
> - I have the wingtip nicely fit and clecoed into the top of the wing all
> along it's edge.
> - The wingtip fits snug into the leading edge of the wing
> - As you travel back along the bottom of the join, the wingtip will not go
> into the wing all the way.
> - with considerable pressure you can twist it in about a 1/6th of an inch
> at
> the most.
>
> The question: Can the wingtip be heated in enough of an area to allow me
> to
> reshape it? What other suggestions might one have in this situation?
>
> Thanks for any help
> Tim
> N616TB Registerd, not flying - but soon
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip has twist |
Hey Tim,
Heat, I do not think will help. I've heard some RV6 builders having this problem.
I think the fix was to fit and cleco the front of the tip, then slice the
aft center of tip till you get a good fit. Then you will re-glass inside and
fill outside. This happened I believe during a vendor change if my memory serves
me correct. You might give Van's a call...
Darrell
Tim Bryan wrote:
Hi Listers, looking for a bit of advice. My -6 wingtip appears to have a
bit of a twist in it preventing me from getting it installed as I would like
Here are the observed conditions.
- At the leading edge the wingtip is flat with the top of the wing.
- At the trailing edge the wingtip is flared up a bit.
- I have the wingtip nicely fit and clecoed into the top of the wing all
along it's edge.
- The wingtip fits snug into the leading edge of the wing
- As you travel back along the bottom of the join, the wingtip will not go
into the wing all the way.
- with considerable pressure you can twist it in about a 1/6th of an inch at
the most.
The question: Can the wingtip be heated in enough of an area to allow me to
reshape it? What other suggestions might one have in this situation?
Thanks for any help
Tim
N616TB Registerd, not flying - but soon
Darrell Reiley
RV7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR Reserved
---------------------------------
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Tom & Cathy,
CONGRATULATIONS !!!!
Happy Flying...
Darrell
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
Group,
At 12:10 today another RV6-A took it's first flight from 10G-Holmes Co. I made
a couple of laps to make sure everything was within perimeters and went South
for ZZV-Zanesville and shot my first landing on runway 4. Smooth....no problems.
After a snickers bar I flew back to 10G at 20 Squared and indicated airspeed of
160 Kts. No heavy wing, no rudder tab needed!! I want to thank Vince Welch for
always having the right tool when I needed to borrow one and his advice. Thanks
to Keith Embry for his transition training which made this first flight safe
and uneventful.
Keep pounding those rivets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tom 362CT
Darrell Reiley
RV7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR Reserved
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Jeff
You sand the first coatings down to the base material after
letting it dry for 6 to 8 hours. Then reapply another 3 to 5 coats and
let it dry over night. In the morning, sand it down again. With the
black lacquer misted over the coating before you sand, the black lacquer
will indicate where you have a low area. Continue this way until you
have the surface that you want. I had some areas on my Europa that
required some extra filling so I probably coated some areas 5 or 6 times
to bring it to the level and finish I wanted. I used a random orbital
sander to knock the smooth prime down. It comes off quickly with 180
grit (? if I remember- its been 4 years ago). It will be pin hole free
and look great. As I mentioned before, when you reach the end, let it
dry completely. At that point, you can put the primer coat on for the
paint you have chosen. There are many primer/fillers but most of them are
solvent based. The smooth prime is water based which is great. Only
required the stink paint primer once with a small bit of sanding and then
on to the colors---
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Jeff,
Yes, the black lacquer is the indicator for low and hi spots. If
you are doing straight areas, then a sanding board will keep things flat.
Other than that, I used a small mouse pad like foam pad that I used
sticky back sanding paper attached to do the curvy portions. Some times,
fingers were necessary in some small areas. Its not all that bad.
considering I'm trying to bend the da-- frame on my slider to match the
curvature of the fuselage. Now that is @%
*$#(. I decided to slit the
square tubing in several places to get it to be in shape and then get it
welded back.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip has twist |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 5:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wingtip has twist
>
>
> Hi Listers, looking for a bit of advice. My -6 wingtip appears to have a
> bit of a twist in it preventing me from getting it installed as I would
> like
>>snip>>>
> The question: Can the wingtip be heated in enough of an area to allow me
> to
> reshape it? What other suggestions might one have in this situation?
>
> Thanks for any help
> Tim
> N616TB Registerd, not flying - but soon
Don't bother trying to heat the wingtip. You'll just delaminate it and cause
yourself problems down the road.
Instead, split it along the trailing edge, fiddle until it fits, then epoxy
it back together. Put a thin layer of glass cloth over the trailing edge,
fill and sand, and it'll be as good as it should have been from the factory.
Is this the left or right tip? Everyone I know with 8-10 year old wingtips
had this problem, and it was always one side. The left, if I recall.
Kyle Boatright
RV-6 N46KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
Wonder if anyone has any input on who to contact for
RV financing (or who NOT to contact).
Any experiences shared would be appreciated.
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip has twist |
Well that is 2 for 2 on the soloution. Guess I will get my saw out even
though I wasn't wanting to do something quite that drastic. Maybe I will go
back and cut the other one while I am at it since it wasn't great.
Thanks a bunch for the help.
Tim Bryan
N616TB
Flying by April
-------Original Message-------
From: Ed Anderson
Date: 01/22/06 15:28:06
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wingtip has twist
Tim,
My RV-6A had a similar problem. The fiberglass tip fit and was even with
the wing everywhere but near the trailing edge. I ended up taking a hack
saw and slitting between the two halves of the tip at the trailing edge up
about 9-12" along the seam. I could then squeeze the two halves so that
they fit under the wing sheet metal. This had about 1-2" of the lower half
of the wing tip rear sticking out further than the top. I simply cut it off
even with the top and then fiberglass the two halves of the trailing edges
back together for a "near" perfect fit.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 5:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wingtip has twist
>
>
> Hi Listers, looking for a bit of advice. My -6 wingtip appears to have a
> bit of a twist in it preventing me from getting it installed as I would
> like
> Here are the observed conditions.
> - At the leading edge the wingtip is flat with the top of the wing.
> - At the trailing edge the wingtip is flared up a bit.
> - I have the wingtip nicely fit and clecoed into the top of the wing all
> along it's edge.
> - The wingtip fits snug into the leading edge of the wing
> - As you travel back along the bottom of the join, the wingtip will not go
> into the wing all the way.
> - with considerable pressure you can twist it in about a 1/6th of an inch
> at
> the most.
>
> The question: Can the wingtip be heated in enough of an area to allow me
> to
> reshape it? What other suggestions might one have in this situation?
>
> Thanks for any help
> Tim
> N616TB Registerd, not flying - but soon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip has twist |
Interesting Kyle, It is the left wingtip. What is the chance the newer
wingtips from the -7 would fit my wings? Ah never mind, I just remembered
my lighting setup would have to be modified to accomodate the new lights in
the front corner.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Kyle Boatright
Date: 01/22/06 16:37:03
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wingtip has twist
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 5:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wingtip has twist
>
>
> Hi Listers, looking for a bit of advice. My -6 wingtip appears to have a
> bit of a twist in it preventing me from getting it installed as I would
> like
>>snip>>>
> The question: Can the wingtip be heated in enough of an area to allow me
> to
> reshape it? What other suggestions might one have in this situation?
>
> Thanks for any help
> Tim
> N616TB Registerd, not flying - but soon
Don't bother trying to heat the wingtip. You'll just delaminate it and cause
yourself problems down the road.
Instead, split it along the trailing edge, fiddle until it fits, then epoxy
it back together. Put a thin layer of glass cloth over the trailing edge,
fill and sand, and it'll be as good as it should have been from the factory.
Is this the left or right tip? Everyone I know with 8-10 year old wingtips
had this problem, and it was always one side. The left, if I recall.
Kyle Boatright
RV-6 N46KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>Wonder if anyone has any input on who to contact for
>RV financing (or who NOT to contact).
>
>Any experiences shared would be appreciated.
>
>Paul Besing
>
I financed my 1st RV-4 back in 1994 through my employee credit union.
They treated it the same as an rv (lower case) or boat. Max duration of
the loan was 4 years & the rate was a bit higher than a car for that
type of loan with that credit uinion at that time. They had never, to my
knowledge, financed a plane before. They asked for an appraisal & hull
insurance equal to the loan amount, & it was pretty simple & painless,
otherwise.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I HATE PINHOLES |
On 22 Jan 2006, at 19:08, James H Nelson wrote:
>
> Hi Jeff
> You sand the first coatings down to the base material after
> letting it dry for 6 to 8 hours. Then reapply another 3 to 5 coats
> and
January 13, 2006 - January 22, 2006
RV-Archive.digest.vol-rp