RV-Archive.digest.vol-rq
January 22, 2006 - February 02, 2006
> let it dry over night.
How accurate do you need to be when you mix the two parts of the
Smooth Prime? The directions make it seem like you need to be very
precise, which doesn't seem easy if you do many batches.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVE MADER" <davemader(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Sensenich prop & not enough pitch? |
After 20 hrs. on my newly completed rv6, I am undecided as to what to do as
far as changing the pitch of my Sensenich fixed pitch prop. At full throttle,
I am seeing 2850 rpm. and nearly 2450 static. I have an 0-360 with 9.5
compression pistons and supposedly it puts out close to 195 h.p. The tach has
been checked with an optical tachometer and is accurate. The climb rate right
now is close to 2000 fpm and top speed is over 210 mph. I like the
performance, just not sure I want to live with the higher rpms. I know I can
throttle back to stay under red line, but am I then limiting my horsepower?
Would my climb rate suffer much with more pitch? Anybody else had this
situation and repitched? Just looking for some feedback.
Dave Mader
2nd 6/20hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich prop & not enough pitch? |
Dave: repitching, like FP props themselves, is a mixed bag. I was running over
redline too easily with my Sensenich after upgrading the O-320 to the 160 hp
pistons, (2600 rpm) so I took it to Sensenich Prop Service in Lancaster, PA and
added 2". Much less overspeeding in gradual descents from cruise, but a lower
ROC and static now 2150-2200 depending on the wind, baro, etc, which is also
down a good 50-75 rpm. The tradeoffs were exactly what I was told to expect.
I get about 1300 fpm solo; plenty for me, but not much by RV standards. The
red warning light for rpm no longer comes on much in 75% cruise, which makes
the wife happier somoehow.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: DAVE MADER <davemader(at)bresnan.net>
Subject: RV-List: Sensenich prop & not enough pitch?
After 20 hrs. on my newly completed rv6, I am undecided as to what to do as
far as changing the pitch of my Sensenich fixed pitch prop. At full throttle,
I am seeing 2850 rpm. and nearly 2450 static. I have an 0-360 with 9.5
compression pistons and supposedly it puts out close to 195 h.p. The tach has
been checked with an optical tachometer and is accurate. The climb rate right
now is close to 2000 fpm and top speed is over 210 mph. I like the
performance, just not sure I want to live with the higher rpms. I know I can
throttle back to stay under red line, but am I then limiting my horsepower?
Would my climb rate suffer much with more pitch? Anybody else had this
situation and repitched? Just looking for some feedback.
Dave Mader
2nd 6/20hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Congratulations Tom!!!
Richard Dudley
-6A 72 hours
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
>Group,
> At 12:10 today another RV6-A took it's first flight from 10G-Holmes
Co. I made a couple of laps to make sure everything was within perimeters and
went South for ZZV-Zanesville and shot my first landing on runway 4. Smooth....no
problems.
> After a snickers bar I flew back to 10G at 20 Squared and indicated
airspeed of 160 Kts. No heavy wing, no rudder tab needed!! I want to thank Vince
Welch for always having the right tool when I needed to borrow one and his
advice. Thanks to Keith Embry for his transition training which made this first
flight safe and uneventful.
> Keep pounding those rivets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
Tom 362CT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cory Emberson <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Paul,
How are you? I came across your card from OSH the other day, btw. I
haven't financed an RV, but I did an article on kit financing for
Kitplanes magazine in the Oct 2004 issue. I'll save the you trouble of
trying to find it, though . You're in luck - RVs are about the most
widely accepted kit aircraft on the market by bankers. I spoke to
officers from NAFCO (Jim Janssen - 800/999-3712 - www.airloans.com) and
Mike Jacobs, who is the president of First Pryority Bank in Pryor, OK
(800/462-7032 - www.1st-of-pryor.com). The only kit Mike will consider
(as of our last interview) is the RV. There were some new comers to the
kit financing market at the last OSH, and if you still have your vendor
list, you'll probably find a few.
I hope this helps, and if you need to contact me off-list, just let me know.
best,
Cory Emberson
Contributing Editor
Kitplanes Magazine
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>Wonder if anyone has any input on who to contact for
>RV financing (or who NOT to contact).
>
>Any experiences shared would be appreciated.
>
>Paul Besing
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Tom,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>CC:
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2006 18:01:05 -0500
>
>
>Group,
> At 12:10 today another RV6-A took it's first flight from
>10G-Holmes Co. I made a couple of laps to make sure everything was within
>perimeters and went South for ZZV-Zanesville and shot my first landing on
>runway 4. Smooth....no problems.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Paul,
We used NAFCO - They were great to deal with.
Chuck
>From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Financing
>Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2006 16:38:58 -0800 (PST)
>
>
>Wonder if anyone has any input on who to contact for
>RV financing (or who NOT to contact).
>
>Any experiences shared would be appreciated.
>
>Paul Besing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
Mr. Bigelow,
I can assure you that my view of things are just as wide as yours. My
profession requires me often to think "outside the box". You may disagree
with some of my statements or ideas, but don't even try to denigrate my
intelligence.
The new electronics coming on the market are great, I have 2 moving maps on
my panel (G530/430), well 3 actually if you count the EHSI. I never said
that certified was better, I said that certified implied that the product
had gone through a known level of testing and would deliver its specified
function. How long it would function (MTBF) was not addressed. Certification
implies that it will do what its supposed to do, no more.
In my narrow world view of things, I'll take the promise of certification
over the words of a basement engineer any day. Yea, yea, I know,
electro-wizzies last 10,000 hours MTBF. There's a elegant engineering
principal that states, "The more complex solution is not as reliable as a
simple, low parts count solution". Or to put it another way, reliability is
inversely proportional to the parts count.
One other thing, a properly maintained vacuum system is just as reliable as
your electro-whizzy. Wet oil pumps last 2-3,000 hours. And those vacuum
gyros just keep spinning when everything else goes dark.
My Glasair III has vacuum and electric gyros, 2 compass systems, 2
alternators, 2 vacuum systems and one battery. I fly a lot of hard IFR.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JetPilot
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 1:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified
The author of the origional thread has a very limited, narrow view of
things. Just because something is "certified" does not make it better or
safer. That kind of backwards thinking just hindres progress.
And yes, having a moving map IS safer, as it increases situational
awareness. There are many many dead people that have flown into terrain
that would have lived had they had a moving map display. Failures of people
are much more common than failures of moving map displays. For safety, I
would take the best moving map display with terrain displayed over
"certified" round dials and vacuum pumps any day.
Vacuum pumps are famous for failing, their antique design is very limited
and they fail more much more often than pizo-electric gyros. Only a
complete moron with the inability to adapt to anything new would say
something is safer just because it is "certified".
Michael A. Bigelow
--------
NO FEAR - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5912#5912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I HATE PINHOLES |
Akzo Aerospace Finishes does a product called "static conditioner". It's a
white milky thick liquid that is applied by brush in circular motions or by
squeegee. Let it dry for about an hour and remove excess by scotchbrite. Do
not use blown gun but use a tackrag. Then apply a coat of Laminar X500
surfacer which will seal in the static conditioner and provide a real hard
surface to sand or paintprep on so that one doesn't sand into the fibers of
the cloth. Maybe not cheap, but fast and effective. It's used among other on
Boeing and Bombardier compositesamong other applications.
The static conditioner is applied straight out of the tin, just stir before
use. A litre of each should be sufficient for both cowlings and the roof
(RV10) and wingtips
If you use any other filler, make sure it's in near liquid state so that the
product can be either forced into the pinhole or run into it. If not, the
product will "bridge" the hole and when you ssand open up again, with the
added bonus of eventually damaging the fibers by repeating the procedure a
number of times.
For effective filling, use a crosscoat system,similar to when you're
spraying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: >Re: I HATE PINHOLES |
> Jim, glad you made the statement about smooth prime not being wet
sandable.
> It is not wet sandable. It MUST be dry sanded as the directions on the
can
> state.
>
Larry's right. At the time I used it, I had the can and the instruction
manual. Maybe it was assumed I'd dry sand. The instructions said nothing
about it. Since we do a lot of wet sanding on RV's, that's what I did with
the Smooth Prime. What scared me about the stuff was that it would raise in
tiny bubbles while being sanded. Those would leave pock marks about the
size of pin heads. I then tried dry sanding the stuff; but, I was afraid
the lifting would also happen while paint was being applied. It's wet,
also. I got rid of it and went with a fast fill primer, instead. If I ever
build a glass airplane, I may try Smooth Prime, again; but, there's a very
slim chance I'll build a glass airplane. In the meantime, I'll use the fast
fill primer that matches the paint I'll be using.
I just thought I'd let our folks know that not all are happy with the stuff.
It does have drawbacks.
Jim Sears in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_Delsol?= <michele.delsol(at)microsigma.fr> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
Good thing this thread was not started in France - As a builder of a tin can
airplane (RV8), I frequently engage in friendly arguments with wood/cloth
airplanes such as Ministrel, Emeraude (from which the CAP 10 was derived)
and plenty of others. There never is a winner but we have lots of fun
battling things out.
Michele
RV8 - Fuselage
PS would never build a plastic airplane or a match-stick/rags one.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JetPilot
Sent: dimanche 22 janvier 2006 19:20
Subject: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified
The author of the origional thread has a very limited, narrow view of
things. Just because something is "certified" does not make it better or
safer. That kind of backwards thinking just hindres progress.
And yes, having a moving map IS safer, as it increases situational
awareness. There are many many dead people that have flown into terrain
that would have lived had they had a moving map display. Failures of people
are much more common than failures of moving map displays. For safety, I
would take the best moving map display with terrain displayed over
"certified" round dials and vacuum pumps any day.
Vacuum pumps are famous for failing, their antique design is very limited
and they fail more much more often than pizo-electric gyros. Only a
complete moron with the inability to adapt to anything new would say
something is safer just because it is "certified".
Michael A. Bigelow
--------
NO FEAR - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5912#5912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sensenich prop & not enough pitch? |
On 22 Jan 2006, at 21:24, DAVE MADER wrote:
>
> After 20 hrs. on my newly completed rv6, I am undecided as to what
> to do as
> far as changing the pitch of my Sensenich fixed pitch prop. At
> full throttle,
> I am seeing 2850 rpm. and nearly 2450 static. I have an 0-360 with
> 9.5
> compression pistons and supposedly it puts out close to 195 h.p.
> The tach has
> been checked with an optical tachometer and is accurate. The climb
> rate right
> now is close to 2000 fpm and top speed is over 210 mph. I like the
> performance, just not sure I want to live with the higher rpms. I
> know I can
> throttle back to stay under red line, but am I then limiting my
> horsepower?
> Would my climb rate suffer much with more pitch? Anybody else had
> this
> situation and repitched? Just looking for some feedback.
If you need to throttle back to keep the rpm where you want it, then
you are sacrificing a lot of power. In this case, a bit more pitch
should yield better cruise performance, as you would make more power
in cruise with the higher throttle opening that you could use. The
climb rate will decrease a bit, but it should still be quite
acceptable. Given that you spend a lot more time in cruise than you
do climbing, it may be worthwhile to sacrifice the climb to improve
the cruise.
Sensenich should be able to work with you to determine how much pitch
change is needed.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
| From: | "N395V" <N395V(at)direcway.com> |
> I'll take the promise of certification
> over the words of a basement engineer any day. Yea, yea, I know,
> electro-wizzies......
Below is a short BIO of Greg Richter of Blue Mountain one of those "basemant engineers"
:)
Richter is a graduate of Georgia Tech holding a Bachelor of Electrical Engineering
and is a Grumman Aerospace scholar and a member of the IEEE. Richter has been
involved in software, systems engineering, RF, analog and digital electronic
design for over 20 years. 8)
I have 2 BMA EFIS, 2 external comnavs, 1 alternator 2 batteries and a flight Cheetah
210 with solid state harddrive in my F1. I fly a lot of IFR when there is
no chance of icing and no TSTMs.
As I have 2 separate electro whizzie systems I do so with confidence and, in my
mind, the same degree of safety I would have with a certified system or 3.
The word certified to me instills no confidence the certification standards put
out by the FAA are just as likely to have been developed by a lifelong anministrative
engineer as by a techno geek.
If you have been around long enough you have encountered "Certified "Flight Instructors,
"Certified" mechanics, "Certified" Doctor's, etc,etc...................
Some of whom are idiots.
The key to safety is to have backup and to understand the limitations of the systems
you are using. These electro whizzies have been around long enough to have
a track record that "implies" they are safe and reliable.
Now I must go and install some rear view mirrors on my Rocket so I can enjoy the
look of awe on the face of Velocity drivers as I whizzzzzz by them. :P
My next plane is going to be a plastic Radial Rocket with Bluemountain whizzies.
I reallly the Glasairs but can't fit in one.
--------
Milt
N395V
F1 Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6085#6085
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip has twist |
Tim, this is probably a dumb question, but did you trim the inner edge to fit?
Dick
At 05:16 PM 1/22/2006, you wrote:
>
>
> Hi Listers, looking for a bit of advice. My -6 wingtip appears to have a
>bit of a twist in it preventing me from getting it installed as I would like
> Here are the observed conditions.
> - At the leading edge the wingtip is flat with the top of the wing.
>- At the trailing edge the wingtip is flared up a bit.
>- I have the wingtip nicely fit and clecoed into the top of the wing all
>along it's edge.
>- The wingtip fits snug into the leading edge of the wing
>- As you travel back along the bottom of the join, the wingtip will not go
>into the wing all the way.
>- with considerable pressure you can twist it in about a 1/6th of an inch at
>the most.
>
>The question: Can the wingtip be heated in enough of an area to allow me to
>reshape it? What other suggestions might one have in this situation?
>
>Thanks for any help
>Tim
>N616TB Registerd, not flying - but soon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
Cc: "'RV-List'"
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: MD200-306 VOR/ILS Indicator |
Dean,
The MD200-306 has internal lighting. But one gottcha.... Be sure that you
don't
put a dimmer circuit on it as it also has it's own internal dimmer...
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
525 Hrs in 2.5 Years...
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <
dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net >
I have a VOR/ILS indicator made by Mid Content Instruments (MD200-306)
and I
am trying to figure out if it is lighted internally or if I need to
supply
some sort of lighting. The (Spartan) instruction manual shows
lighting
connections but I'm not sure if they are for the annunciator lights or
for
full facial lighting. Those who've used this instrument in your
panels, do
you remember if it is internally lit or will I need to supply post
lights or
something similar? I emailed Mid Content Instruments several days ago
about
this but apparently their entire technical support department is on an
extended vacation! Thanks for all the help.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Kevin,
I believe that Poly Fiber provides a measuring device to get the
correct blend. I used a paint mixer on my drill to mix it completely.
Then washed it off to keep it clean. If you don't, it hardens and you
have to scrape it off. :-(( I did my applications in small batches
to keep it from getting hard while applying. I used Home despot for
trays and rollers to put the smooth prime on.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: MD200-306 VOR/ILS Indicator |
Fred,
My pinout diagram for the MD200-306 shows that pin #23 goes to the 14 volt
dimmer, pin # 22 goes to either a 28 volt dimmer or to ground in the case of
a 14 volt dimmer. Pin # 19 is for 14 v input and pin # 21 is the power
ground. I wired mine this way and it dims very nicely with the dimmer
circuit. I was not aware that it had an internal dimmer as well. Can you
clarify?
Documentation is sparse but I do have the pinout if anyone needs a copy.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
Dean,
The MD200-306 has internal lighting. But one gottcha.... Be sure that you
don't
put a dimmer circuit on it as it also has it's own internal dimmer...
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
525 Hrs in 2.5 Years...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List:Uncertified Artificial Horizon |
You're preaching to the choir, Rob. I have your AOA Pro in my airplane.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List:Uncertified Artificial Horizon
In a message dated 1/22/2006 6:12:13 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Bruce(at)glasair.org writes:
If all these manufacturers were so
damn sure their products would pass, why didn't they test and certify them?
It would give them a leg up on the competition.
Bruce,
The reason that manufacturers don't do it is that it costs a huge amount of
money and once you do it limits your ability to make improvements to the
product.
We have been in the middle of certifying the AOA for over three years
now.
We have passed DO-160 testing and we should have our first STC in the
spring.
It has cost well over $75,000 to get it certified. We have made a number
of improvements to the AOA since we started certification and we
currently are
selling the AOA Sport 3. The certified AOA Sport 1 unit that we could
start selling this summer is 3 generations old and is not as good as the
one that
we make today, but it will be =E2=80=9CCertified=E2=80=9D. The paper
work alone will add
a major amount of cost to each unit that we sell and to be honest most
people
are not willing to pay for it.
You forgot the really big benefit that you get once you start selling a
certified product. You are assured that you will be sued for every
airplane
crash no madder what caused it. We currently have a customer that wants to
install a large number of AOA=E2=80=99s in Cessna Caravans. They have three
Caravans
flying with the AOA and =E2=80=9Cmust have it=E2=80=9D. You would not
even believe the
conversations I have had with my insurance company over this one=E2=80=A6.
Cessna, Cirrus, ect=E2=80=A6 would tell you exactly the same thing
about airframes
as you have said about avionics. There is no way that Lancair, Vans, or
Glassair have done the paper work and testing that the certified
manufactures
have had to do. Does this automatically mean that a new RV-10 is not
as safe
as a Cirrus? I don=E2=80=99t think so, and I can=E2=80=99t wait to load my
family in my
RV-10 with my uncertified EFIS , Engine Monitor, and AOA. I would also
argue
that my RV-10 will be safer because of them.
Every year I have someone stop by the booth and tell me that our
uncertified
product has saved their life. How many people would not be here today if
they had waited to install a certified instrument? How much higher would
the
insurance that you pay be? I would bet that way more lives are saved
because
of affordable, uncertified avionics.
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip has twist |
Hi Dick,
Yes, I had to trim the inner edge of the bottom because it was hitting the
rib. I trimmed about 3/16". Now it doesn't hit but still won't go in. I
can warp a little with my hands but not near enough to do any good. I had
to trim quite a bit on the right wing tip but in the end it went in and
together. Didn't notice any warping in it and it was pretty flat accross
the top of wingtip / wing.
-------Original Message-------
From: Richard Seiders
Date: 01/23/06 05:35:57
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wingtip has twist
Tim, this is probably a dumb question, but did you trim the inner edge to
fit?
Dick
At 05:16 PM 1/22/2006, you wrote:
>
>
> Hi Listers, looking for a bit of advice. My -6 wingtip appears to have a
>bit of a twist in it preventing me from getting it installed as I would
like
> Here are the observed conditions.
> - At the leading edge the wingtip is flat with the top of the wing.
>- At the trailing edge the wingtip is flared up a bit.
>- I have the wingtip nicely fit and clecoed into the top of the wing all
>along it's edge.
>- The wingtip fits snug into the leading edge of the wing
>- As you travel back along the bottom of the join, the wingtip will not go
>into the wing all the way.
>- with considerable pressure you can twist it in about a 1/6th of an inch
at
>the most.
>
>The question: Can the wingtip be heated in enough of an area to allow me
to
>reshape it? What other suggestions might one have in this situation?
>
>Thanks for any help
>Tim
>N616TB Registerd, not flying - but soon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
>
>I can see the reasons that the RV list has a reputation for driving out
>those brave souls who don't blindly follow the group mindset. Good luck, you
>guys. I hope all have a sound backup plan.
I don't know that people leave this list because of disagreements. Personally
I take grief for flying high whereas other RV pilots fly closer to the
ground. A
recent close encounter with a Cessna at 9500' (low in my book) just reinforces
my belief that it is safer higher.
I do have a question about the Dynon system. Some say that it is acceptable
for use in IFR flight. Is there anything in writing that confirms that
assertion?
I also am of the impression that the issue of certified or not is not that
important.
Look at the NTSB accident reports and see the boneheaded, Darwin-tempting
things that pilots do that kill themselves and others. If you want to reduce
accidents, figure out how to keep pilots from making STUPID decisions that
result in fatalities.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
Thank you Ron. I thought that was what I was trying to do.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 11:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified
>
>I can see the reasons that the RV list has a reputation for driving out
>those brave souls who don't blindly follow the group mindset. Good luck,
you
>guys. I hope all have a sound backup plan.
I don't know that people leave this list because of disagreements.
Personally
I take grief for flying high whereas other RV pilots fly closer to the
ground. A
recent close encounter with a Cessna at 9500' (low in my book) just
reinforces
my belief that it is safer higher.
I do have a question about the Dynon system. Some say that it is acceptable
for use in IFR flight. Is there anything in writing that confirms that
assertion?
I also am of the impression that the issue of certified or not is not that
important.
Look at the NTSB accident reports and see the boneheaded, Darwin-tempting
things that pilots do that kill themselves and others. If you want to
reduce
accidents, figure out how to keep pilots from making STUPID decisions that
result in fatalities.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vern W." <highflight1(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gluing canopies - a few more notes |
Kevin,
You mention doing the canopy upside down... I was under the impression that
the canopy had to/should be glued on the aircraft with the frame and canopy
in the closed position in order to insure that no twist or movement will
screw up the final fit (and yes, I thought that might be a bit problematic).
So if you glue the canopy to the frame off the aircraft, how do you make
sure it stays aligned as it should?
Vern
On 1/22/06, Kevin Hester wrote:
>
> kevinh-unfiltered(at)sneakyfrog.com
>
> * The clear sika prep fluid will slightly roughen any plexi that it is
> allowed to sit on for an extended time. Either use masking to protect
> against this (particularly when doing the canopy frame with the plexy
> upside down over the table) or when you screw up wipe up excess with a
> paper towel. It is a very slight effect but noticeable if you look at
> the right angle.
Kevin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Gluing canopies - a few more notes |
I used some of the scrap canopy track to make a mount
on my workbench. You can see what I did in some of
these pictures:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050617213651709
If I could do it again, I'd use some dabs of Sikaflex
to "tack" the canopy to the frame, and then turn the
whole thing upside down to finish it off.
Mickey
Vern W. wrote:
>
> Kevin,
> You mention doing the canopy upside down... I was under the impression that
> the canopy had to/should be glued on the aircraft with the frame and canopy
> in the closed position in order to insure that no twist or movement will
> screw up the final fit (and yes, I thought that might be a bit problematic).
>
> So if you glue the canopy to the frame off the aircraft, how do you make
> sure it stays aligned as it should?
>
> Vern
>
>
> On 1/22/06, Kevin Hester wrote:
>
>>kevinh-unfiltered(at)sneakyfrog.com
>>
>>* The clear sika prep fluid will slightly roughen any plexi that it is
>>allowed to sit on for an extended time. Either use masking to protect
>>against this (particularly when doing the canopy frame with the plexy
>>upside down over the table) or when you screw up wipe up excess with a
>>paper towel. It is a very slight effect but noticeable if you look at
>>the right angle.
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Corey Crawford <corey.crawford(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
I know this isn't a solid-state instrument, but I ran into this electric,
battery backed-up gyro in a blurb in AOPA Pilot:
http://www.lifesavergyro.com/
They also have a mini electric gyro:
http://www.mcico.com/master1.html?whatsnew.html&1
Thought it might interest someone..
--
Corey Crawford
corey.crawford(at)gmail.com
Building an RV-7A in Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
I don't mind the disagreements. What I don't like is when others, who are
struggling to counter my statements, resort to personal attacks.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 11:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified
>
>I can see the reasons that the RV list has a reputation for driving out
>those brave souls who don't blindly follow the group mindset. Good luck,
you
>guys. I hope all have a sound backup plan.
I don't know that people leave this list because of disagreements.
Personally
I take grief for flying high whereas other RV pilots fly closer to the
ground. A
recent close encounter with a Cessna at 9500' (low in my book) just
reinforces
my belief that it is safer higher.
I do have a question about the Dynon system. Some say that it is acceptable
for use in IFR flight. Is there anything in writing that confirms that
assertion?
I also am of the impression that the issue of certified or not is not that
important.
Look at the NTSB accident reports and see the boneheaded, Darwin-tempting
things that pilots do that kill themselves and others. If you want to
reduce
accidents, figure out how to keep pilots from making STUPID decisions that
result in fatalities.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | RV Wiki Featured Article |
Rob Prior has written an excellent article for the RV Wiki in which he compiles
information from many posts to the RV List on the subject of gluing canopies.
http://www.rvwiki.org/index.php?title=Gluing_Your_Canopy
As always, you are welcome to improve this article any way you can, such as by
adding further information or pictures, or even just by correcting any typos
you notice. You'll find quick instructions on editing an article here,
http://www.rvwiki.org/index.php?title=Quick_Page_Editing_Instructions
and more detailed instructions here,
http://www.rvwiki.org/index.php?title=Help:Edit
---
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip has twist |
Look at Dan's website, he has a good photo of his "hi-tech" solution.
http://www.rvproject.com/index.html
Lot of good info there. I just noticed he's a contributing editor to
Kitplanes. Who knew?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 4:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wingtip has twist
>
>
> Hi Listers, looking for a bit of advice. My -6 wingtip appears to have a
> bit of a twist in it preventing me from getting it installed as I would
> like
> Here are the observed conditions.
> - At the leading edge the wingtip is flat with the top of the wing.
> - At the trailing edge the wingtip is flared up a bit.
> - I have the wingtip nicely fit and clecoed into the top of the wing all
> along it's edge.
> - The wingtip fits snug into the leading edge of the wing
> - As you travel back along the bottom of the join, the wingtip will not go
> into the wing all the way.
> - with considerable pressure you can twist it in about a 1/6th of an inch
> at
> the most.
>
> The question: Can the wingtip be heated in enough of an area to allow me
> to
> reshape it? What other suggestions might one have in this situation?
>
> Thanks for any help
> Tim
> N616TB Registerd, not flying - but soon
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gluing canopies - a few more notes |
tacking is the way to go, it lets u make a much nicer finish on the glue
beads, is what the Sika guys recommended when i called them.
Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
>I used some of the scrap canopy track to make a mount
>on my workbench. You can see what I did in some of
>these pictures:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050617213651709
>
>If I could do it again, I'd use some dabs of Sikaflex
>to "tack" the canopy to the frame, and then turn the
>whole thing upside down to finish it off.
>
>Mickey
>
>Vern W. wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Kevin,
>>You mention doing the canopy upside down... I was under the impression that
>>the canopy had to/should be glued on the aircraft with the frame and canopy
>>in the closed position in order to insure that no twist or movement will
>>screw up the final fit (and yes, I thought that might be a bit problematic).
>>
>>So if you glue the canopy to the frame off the aircraft, how do you make
>>sure it stays aligned as it should?
>>
>>Vern
>>
>>
>>On 1/22/06, Kevin Hester wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>kevinh-unfiltered(at)sneakyfrog.com
>>>
>>>* The clear sika prep fluid will slightly roughen any plexi that it is
>>>allowed to sit on for an extended time. Either use masking to protect
>>>against this (particularly when doing the canopy frame with the plexy
>>>upside down over the table) or when you screw up wipe up excess with a
>>>paper towel. It is a very slight effect but noticeable if you look at
>>>the right angle.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gluing canopies - a few more notes |
Hey Kevin, timing is everything.
Im planning on removing my poorly fit aluminum canopy fairing and replacing
with fiberglass. Any tips? i.e. How many layups of what oz cloth,
pitfalls...
tia
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Hester" <kevinh-unfiltered(at)sneakyfrog.com>
Cc: "Gerry Filby"
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Gluing canopies - a few more notes
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Various other posters have already covered most points, but since I've
> done the adhesive canopy thing I'd like to add a few notes:
>
> * Thanks to Chalkie for getting this great idea started with his Sport
> Aviation article
> * Sika is a bit of a pain to work with, but no where nearly as nasty as
> proseal. If I had it to do over again, there's no way I'd even
> consider using pop rivets.
> * I really like that with Sika your canopy mates right up with your
> windscreen - no need to make the fiberglass lip
> * Before applying the black primer to the plexi, be very careful about
> masking (duh)
> * Rough up the rollbar powdercoat pretty good before applying the sika
> prep clear fluid to it.
> * Also apply masking tape to the rollbar where you don't want any sika
> to stick.
> * The clear sika prep fluid will slightly roughen any plexi that it is
> allowed to sit on for an extended time. Either use masking to protect
> against this (particularly when doing the canopy frame with the plexy
> upside down over the table) or when you screw up wipe up excess with a
> paper towel. It is a very slight effect but noticeable if you look at
> the right angle.
> * Although Sika says it is dry within a day(?), it really takes a few
> weeks before it is as strong as it is ever going to be. When I did
> some test pieces I was initially a bit concerned with the strength of
> the bond but two weeks later it reached the point where I was breaking
> plexy before sika would come off. (Not a very scientific test though).
> * Use this 'slow dry' property to your advantage - if you need to
> mechanically remove any sika that squeezes past masking tape, it is
> much easier to do this the day after the lay-up than a week later.
> * I had one helper for the actual bonding day of the windscreen to the
> rollbar, I'd recommend two helpers. ;-)
> * If you are doing sika, you probably want to make your aft skirt out
> of fiberglass rather than aluminum. The fiberglass skirt only takes a
> day to make and you can bond it with sika as well - no pop rivets
> through the plexi and the frame.
> * Like anything - doing it the first time takes _much_ longer. If you
> can find someone local who's done it, buy em with beer to come help on
> windscreen bonding day (canopy bonding is way easier). I'm happy to
> help any SF Bay Area builder who decides to go this way...
>
> (I think the current GLO custom photos on the VAF homepage show my
> crummy masking job - fortunately Sika is paintable (and Grady friggen
> rocks), so I've now decided that my rollbar should be black to match
> the top of my plane)
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
Hey Milt, what do you think about the Flight Cheetah?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "N395V" <N395V(at)direcway.com>
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 7:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified
>
>
>> I'll take the promise of certification
>> over the words of a basement engineer any day. Yea, yea, I know,
>> electro-wizzies......
>
>
> Below is a short BIO of Greg Richter of Blue Mountain one of those
> "basemant engineers" :)
>
> Richter is a graduate of Georgia Tech holding a Bachelor of Electrical
> Engineering and is a Grumman Aerospace scholar and a member of the IEEE.
> Richter has been involved in software, systems engineering, RF, analog and
> digital electronic design for over 20 years. 8)
>
> I have 2 BMA EFIS, 2 external comnavs, 1 alternator 2 batteries and a
> flight Cheetah 210 with solid state harddrive in my F1. I fly a lot of IFR
> when there is no chance of icing and no TSTMs.
>
> As I have 2 separate electro whizzie systems I do so with confidence and,
> in my mind, the same degree of safety I would have with a certified system
> or 3.
>
> The word certified to me instills no confidence the certification
> standards put out by the FAA are just as likely to have been developed by
> a lifelong anministrative engineer as by a techno geek.
>
> If you have been around long enough you have encountered "Certified
> "Flight Instructors, "Certified" mechanics, "Certified" Doctor's,
> etc,etc...................
>
> Some of whom are idiots.
>
> The key to safety is to have backup and to understand the limitations of
> the systems you are using. These electro whizzies have been around long
> enough to have a track record that "implies" they are safe and reliable.
>
> Now I must go and install some rear view mirrors on my Rocket so I can
> enjoy the look of awe on the face of Velocity drivers as I whizzzzzz by
> them. :P
>
>
> My next plane is going to be a plastic Radial Rocket with Bluemountain
> whizzies. I reallly the Glasairs but can't fit in one.
>
> --------
> Milt
> N395V
> F1 Rocket
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6085#6085
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>I don't mind the disagreements. What I don't like is when others, who are
>struggling to counter my statements, resort to personal attacks.
>
>Bruce
>www.glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
>Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 11:39 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified
>
>
>
>
>>
>>I can see the reasons that the RV list has a reputation for driving out
>>those brave souls who don't blindly follow the group mindset. Good luck,
>>
>>
>you
>
>
>>guys. I hope all have a sound backup plan.
>>
>>
Bruce you have been a good contributor to this list for a long time, I
enjoy reading your posts. I also agree
with you. It is amazing to me how many people that have the "electronic
gizmo's" also have some type
of steam gauge. When asked why both it is always the same answer, "JUST
IN CASE." :-)
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
| From: | "N395V" <N395V(at)direcway.com> |
shempdowling2(at)earthlin wrote:
> Hey Milt, what do you think about the Flight Cheetah?-
Just got it put in so havn't used it a lot. I have been running the same software
(True Map) on a tablet and really love it. Provides great weather, moving
map, and airway info and easy rapid access to approach plates. Now with a solid
state HD I can go up into the low teen Flight Levels without crunching my harddrive.
The actual flight Cheetah is quicker and easier to use as all it is is a flight
instrument and not a multi purpose computer. It was a real struggle to pick between
the 396 and Cheetah but I really needed an EFB type solution to charts
and approach plates. The 396 just didn't provide that.
The short answer to your question is I think it is terrific.
--------
Milt
N395V
F1 Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6336#6336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> |
| Subject: | first real dimples |
Ok I am just now setting my first real dimples in the HS spars and ribs,
pneumatic squeezer, do I want to see the slight ring imprint also ,? or am I
just a little deep ?
How about when I get to the skin ??
Thanks all,.,
Dan Hatch
-8 QB
N728RV Reserved
and gettin on a roll !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <dan.beadle(at)inclinesoftworks.com> |
| Subject: | first real dimples |
I overdid the dimpling on my first try. I used a lot of pressure. TOO
MUCH. What you want is to have the dies just touch the surface. In my
case, the excessive pressure caused the holes to expand, making a cleco not
hold well.
Another test is to insert an AN426 rivet. The top of the rivet should be
flush with the skin. And the mating part, the spar or rib, should be
dimpled enough to accept the skin without visible separation.
Hope this helps.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 7:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: first real dimples
Ok I am just now setting my first real dimples in the HS spars and ribs,
pneumatic squeezer, do I want to see the slight ring imprint also ,? or am
I just a little deep ?
How about when I get to the skin ??
Thanks all,.,
Dan Hatch
-8 QB
N728RV Reserved
and gettin on a roll !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
This is obviously uncertified but might make a backup unit? Does anyone
have any experience with these Stratomaster Units? At $875 they aren't much
more than a T&B?
http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Stratomaster/SmartSingles/AttitudeIndic
ators/attitudeindicators.html
Bill S
7a Ark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of N395V
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 9:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified
shempdowling2(at)earthlin wrote:
> Hey Milt, what do you think about the Flight Cheetah?-
Just got it put in so havn't used it a lot. I have been running the same
software (True Map) on a tablet and really love it. Provides great weather,
moving map, and airway info and easy rapid access to approach plates. Now
with a solid state HD I can go up into the low teen Flight Levels without
crunching my harddrive.
The actual flight Cheetah is quicker and easier to use as all it is is a
flight instrument and not a multi purpose computer. It was a real struggle
to pick between the 396 and Cheetah but I really needed an EFB type solution
to charts and approach plates. The 396 just didn't provide that.
The short answer to your question is I think it is terrific.
--------
Milt
N395V
F1 Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6336#6336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: first real dimples |
The slight imprint is good and is not a problem. It
means the die has fully depressed the dimple. If,
outside that ring,you see bulging, it is too much
pressure.
Dave
--- Dan wrote:
>
> Ok I am just now setting my first real dimples in
> the HS spars and ribs,
> pneumatic squeezer, do I want to see the slight
> ring imprint also ,? or am I just a little deep ?
> How about when I get to the skin ??
> Thanks all,.,
>
> Dan Hatch
> -8 QB
> N728RV Reserved
>
> and gettin on a roll !
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> |
Thanks all for the responses I've gotten , on a few "new builder " questions,
I just wanted to share on one of my favorite and usefull tools which I got on the first day of building was my shop apron from Duluth Trading co. http://www.duluthtrading.com/search/searchresults/83490.aspx
It's tough, has great pockets to hold cleco's, tools, pen and glasse's it does
a great job of protecting my clothes and when I go to the garage I put it on
! AND I'm building an airplane !!
The toughest apron you'll ever weld, grind, or grill in
Dan Hatch
Seattle
-8 QB
728RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
Since you brought up the subject ... A long while back, I started using
scrubs (www.scrubs.com) and found them to be very handy. They are cool to
work in, have large pockets for clecos and parts, do not hamper movement,
and can quickly be peeled off so you don't track aluminum dust everywhere. I
wear an old pair of running shoes and athletic socks and usually a scrub cap
to keep debris out of my hair. I might look a bit funny, but it was really
handy recently when I was back-drilling the top skins of my -6A fuselage;
aluminum was falling all around me and the inside of the plane was fairly
hot with my and a worklight in there. My wife made me a shop apron which I
found to be pretty hand when working externally but aprons just get in the
way when you have to crawl around, IMHO. Scrubs can be had with cuffed legs
(elastic, so the bottom is closed around the leg) and jackets with long
sleeves for painting/prosealing. However, I just went with the "old-shirt"
method for prosealing. One set of scrubs has stood up to the entire project
to date (beware hospital scrubs - they're made of lighter material). If you
think that they're too light for shop work, check out Dan Checkoway's wife
doing "pin-up riveting". ;} Dan, that picture should be made into an
inspirational poster...
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - installing cockpit floors and systems
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 11:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Shop Tool ?
Thanks all for the responses I've gotten , on a few "new builder "
questions,
I just wanted to share on one of my favorite and usefull tools which I got
on the first day of building was my shop apron from Duluth Trading co.
http://www.duluthtrading.com/search/searchresults/83490.aspx
It's tough, has great pockets to hold cleco's, tools, pen and glasse's it
does a great job of protecting my clothes and when I go to the garage I put
it on ! AND I'm building an airplane !!
The toughest apron you'll ever weld, grind, or grill in
Dan Hatch
Seattle
-8 QB
728RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | instructor needed in Ann Arbor Michigan area |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Does anyone know of an instructor in the Ann Arbor, MI area that can
check someone out in their RV tri-gear aircraft?
Reply offlist to vfrazier(at)usi.edu
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rock5219" <rer51(at)netscape.ca> |
Has anyone found a method to use sikaflex on the tip-up version canopy? RV9A
C-FYOO Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)utcfuelcells.com> |
Cc: "'RV-List'"
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: MD200-306 VOR/ILS Indicator |
Pat,
I just looked up my wiring and found the following: Pin #21,22 to GND,
Pin #23 to dimmer, and Pin #19 to +14VDC.
I had originally wired Pin #23 (ann. PWR) to the dimmer, but found
that the unit had an internal dimmer associated with the enunciator.
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
525 Hrs in 2.5 Years...
>
Fred,
My pinout diagram for the MD200-306 shows that pin #23 goes to the 14
volt
dimmer, pin # 22 goes to either a 28 volt dimmer or to ground in the
case of
a 14 volt dimmer. Pin # 19 is for 14 v input and pin # 21 is the
power
ground. I wired mine this way and it dims very nicely with the dimmer
circuit. I was not aware that it had an internal dimmer as well. Can
you
clarify?
Documentation is sparse but I do have the pinout if anyone needs a
copy.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
< Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com
>
Dean,
The MD200-306 has internal lighting. But one gottcha.... Be sure
that you
don't
put a dimmer circuit on it as it also has it's own internal dimmer...
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
525 Hrs in 2.5 Years...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Excess" Energy use! |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
In my humble opinion, anyone who would criticise the unacceptable damage and polution
from a (US) petrochem facility has no place flying GA/personal airplanes.
The is the same contradiction as those who complain about "global warming"
and driver their Land Rovers. These are all hypocritical contradictions.
The tactic "liberal/enviro whackos" use when they accuse conservatives of not caring
about the environment is baseless and ignorant. What sane person does not
want clean air and water for themselves and their children! It's all about
what's a reasonable, sustainable level of emission.
Life is a made up of compromises... and the laws of thermodynamics. You want to
fly in an airplane, there will be waste and byproduct produced from its use.
I can only speak for the US petrochem industry - in which I worked for 17 years
- where they have made incredible strides over the last 20 years. There still
could be improvements in some areas, but much greater emission reduction
requirements and we will be pricing ourselves right out of business due to diminishing
returns *and* the fact that (third world) Mexico can produce the same
products cheaper while spewing their waste right into the Southwestern US air
flow.
Anyone suggestion that the environmental compliance capital spending doesn't add
to the cost of production and processing is really fooling themselves. Who
pays for the $BILLIONS spent on NOx reduction, low sulfur diesel, etc, etc. projects?
The EPA Fairies??
I have spent time near (US) petroleum production sites. In the US essentially
no waste or byproduct leaves the local containment. The impact is essentially
nill.
Tar in the surf is both naturally occurring and, unfortunately, sometimes the result
of spills. Which got on your feet?
Remember the Valdez natural disaster? Would "kill-off all fish and wildlife for
20-30 years!!" While a stupid mistake and a terrible mess, nature reclaimed
the area to a near pre-accident state in only a few years. And biologists have
determined that those species not back to pre-spill conditions may have experienced
*natural* fluctuations in their conditions.
Last, proposing "fair" use of energy is only something right out of the Communist
Manifesto. Let the markets decide.
2 cents
Bryan Jones
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6482#6482
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Waterjet Cutting |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Anyone have a source (in the US) for small waterjet cutting services? I'm for
a source that doesn't charge "industrial" rates to make some complex (1/2" thick)
steel brackets.
Thanks
Bryan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6504#6504
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified |
Those are my exact reasons for wanting the Cheetah. I also am looking at a
396 but I hate always worrying about approach charts. It seems to me the
Cheetah has it all, just not in a pretty case :) Good software options as
well.
Please give us an update once you have used it a bit.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "N395V" <N395V(at)direcway.com>
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 9:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Artificial Horizon Uncertified
>
>
> shempdowling2(at)earthlin wrote:
>> Hey Milt, what do you think about the Flight Cheetah?-
>
>
> Just got it put in so havn't used it a lot. I have been running the same
> software (True Map) on a tablet and really love it. Provides great
> weather, moving map, and airway info and easy rapid access to approach
> plates. Now with a solid state HD I can go up into the low teen Flight
> Levels without crunching my harddrive.
>
> The actual flight Cheetah is quicker and easier to use as all it is is a
> flight instrument and not a multi purpose computer. It was a real struggle
> to pick between the 396 and Cheetah but I really needed an EFB type
> solution to charts and approach plates. The 396 just didn't provide that.
>
> The short answer to your question is I think it is terrific.
>
> --------
> Milt
> N395V
> F1 Rocket
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6336#6336
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | B&C alternator clearance |
I currently have Vans 35amp alt. With a Gates 7355 belt (36-1/4") on an
O-360 C/S. Somewhere between 3-3.5 g's the pulley makes contact with lower
cowl.
I tried the next size shorter belt 7350 (35-5/8") but it's too tight and
holds the alternator against the Stainless oil line from the governor. I
would buy a B&C L40 if I thought it would give more clearance, but would
rather save the money if it wouldn't fit with the shorter belt.
Does anyone have a B&C L40 on a O-360 with a constant speed prop, and using
a 7350 (35-5/8") (890mm) belt? If I know this combination works I'll order
the B&C.
Chris Brooks
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Well, I installed the spacer behind #3 cylinder and totally solved my
hot #3 problem - fantastic, all the temps are now perfect! That's the
good news. The bad news is that now that I have the temps under control
I get nailed by the ECi mandatory service bulletin/ AD. I know, my RV6
is experimental and AD's don't legally apply, but they've had 30
failures so I think that it's prudent to take care of it. If nothing
else, I'd take a big hit if I tried to sell it without taking care of
the AD.
ECi is not going to make me pay full price for 4 new cylinder
assemblies. A prorated warranty applies, and since I've got just 100
hrs on them it's "only" going to cost me about $1350 to replace them
with new "Titan"cylinders. Yes, I shouldn't have to pay anything but
that's the nature of AD's - the owner gets screwed. ( As a mater of
fact, anytime the government gets involved you get screwed)
I brought this up because this is one AD that I think we should comply
with and the sooner it's done the cheaper it's going to be. So if you
have ECi Classic Cast cylinders, do yourself a favor and check out ECi
service bulletin #05-8 at:
http://www.eci2fly.com/pdf/05-8.pdf
The AD# is 2005-26-10.
Dave -6 SoCal
EAA Technical Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: B&C alternator clearance |
Chris,
I don't have an answer for you on the L40, but here is something else you may consider.
Get yourself a "slightly" bigger diameter pulley for your current alternator,
which will do two things for you: 1. Get the ALT closer to the engine
while still using the 7355 belt you have on it right now, and 2. slow down your
ALT.-RPM a little bit! Does that make sense to anyone else ???
Good Luck to you (without spending to much money)
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Brooks
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 3:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: B&C alternator clearance
I currently have Vans 35amp alt. With a Gates 7355 belt (36-1/4") on an
O-360 C/S. Somewhere between 3-3.5 g's the pulley makes contact with lower
cowl.
I tried the next size shorter belt 7350 (35-5/8") but it's too tight and
holds the alternator against the Stainless oil line from the governor. I
would buy a B&C L40 if I thought it would give more clearance, but would
rather save the money if it wouldn't fit with the shorter belt.
Does anyone have a B&C L40 on a O-360 with a constant speed prop, and using
a 7350 (35-5/8") (890mm) belt? If I know this combination works I'll order
the B&C.
Chris Brooks
RV6
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil" <phatphill(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Waterjet Cutting |
Try this. A huge list of shops.
http://waterjets.org/waterjet_jobshops.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 11:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: Waterjet Cutting
>
> Anyone have a source (in the US) for small waterjet cutting services? I'm
for a source that doesn't charge "industrial" rates to make some complex
(1/2" thick) steel brackets.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bryan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6504#6504
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Waterjet Cutting |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Excellent responses. Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6648#6648
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: B&C alternator clearance |
In a message dated 1/24/2006 2:16:26 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
brooksrv6(at)hotmail.com writes:
Does anyone have a B&C L40 on a O-360 with a constant speed prop, and using
a 7350 (35-5/8") (890mm) belt? If I know this combination works I'll order
the B&C.
=====================================
I run the B&C L60 alternator with the Gates 7360 belt fine on mine since day
one, if it helps you to decide.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 771hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Waterjet Cutting |
Emachineshop.com is the cats meow...if you can draw a part, it can be made
most any material, most any process, all online, with pricing... give a
look...
Steven dinieri
N221rv
N231rv
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bdjones1965
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 10:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Waterjet Cutting
Excellent responses. Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6648#6648
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B&C alternator clearance |
Konrad, that makes since to me. My algebra is probably flawed but I
calculated that if I went with a 3-1/4" pulley instead of the 2-3/4" it
would move the alt. .4" closer to the engine but only gain 1/8" of pulley
clearance. That .4" puts me back into the prop governor line.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Oh sure, tease us with the image of a "pin up wife" and not tell us the
URL.
Good thing that I have a pin up wife of my own to gawk at. I even put
her on the back of my flight jacket.
http://vincesrocket.com/jacket%20back%20web.JPG (Artwork done by R.T.
Foster, www.rtfosterart.com)
Go Dan! ;-)
Vince Frazier
http://vincesrocket.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: B&C alternator clearance |
Chris,
What is your thought in regards to a small clearance bump fiberglassed into the
cowl, versus buying a new expensive alternator?
After all it is not very much additional clearance that you are looking for? Or
perhaps you could stay away from the 3+G Pulls :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Brooks
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: B&C alternator clearance
Konrad, that makes since to me. My algebra is probably flawed but I
calculated that if I went with a 3-1/4" pulley instead of the 2-3/4" it
would move the alt. .4" closer to the engine but only gain 1/8" of pulley
clearance. That .4" puts me back into the prop governor line.
Chris
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | B&C alternator clearance |
I have a similar set-up to yours with the 40 amp B&C alternator, the same
engine, and a constant speed prop. I found that my alterantor hit the cowl
on the first flight. I used a slightly shorter (Gates) belt and modified
the tensioning arm. Since the mod I have not had a problem in over 300
hours. 'Hope this helps,
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Bolton, MA
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: B&C alternator clearance
Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 16:13:28 -0600
I currently have Vans 35amp alt. With a Gates 7355 belt (36-1/4") on an
O-360 C/S. Somewhere between 3-3.5 g's the pulley makes contact with lower
cowl.
I tried the next size shorter belt 7350 (35-5/8") but it's too tight and
holds the alternator against the Stainless oil line from the governor. I
would buy a B&C L40 if I thought it would give more clearance, but would
rather save the money if it wouldn't fit with the shorter belt.
Does anyone have a B&C L40 on a O-360 with a constant speed prop, and using
a 7350 (35-5/8") (890mm) belt? If I know this combination works I'll order
the B&C.
Chris Brooks
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dan's wife!? |
Jen is a very attractive woman. But I believe that
ANY woman that will help her husband rivet an airplane
is a goddess.
Dave Nellis
--- "Frazier, Vincent A" wrote:
>
>
> Oh sure, tease us with the image of a "pin up wife"
> and not tell us the
> URL.
>
> Good thing that I have a pin up wife of my own to
> gawk at. I even put
> her on the back of my flight jacket.
> http://vincesrocket.com/jacket%20back%20web.JPG
> (Artwork done by R.T.
> Foster, www.rtfosterart.com)
>
> Go Dan! ;-)
>
> Vince Frazier
> http://vincesrocket.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
| Subject: | oil rant response |
I didnt read em all, but Mickys reply was on the mark for me, As for cars, My
VERY comfortable and quiet Buick Regal gets 32 mpg on the road. As for global
warming, anyboddy seen all the disapearing glaciers and barren land that was once
covered with ice? As for nEuropena gas, It was $1.00 a gal in germany in the
late 50's already.
I know because when my ultra cheep gas ration card ran out, I had to buy it at
the pump. Now let me tell you, those Litters run so fast you can hardly see them
:-) Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
We'd just wake up in the morning, scratch ourselves, and see what food we
can find laying around.
Dang, I been doing this for 48 years, was I supposed to be doing something
different???
;{)
Re: RV-List:
We'd just wake up in the morning, scratch ourselves, and see what food we can find
laying around.
Dang, I been doing this for 48 years, was I supposed to be doing something different???
;{)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Mechanical Fuel Pump Available |
I have a new fuel pump model LW15473 date code 3905 avialable for $200. I'll pay
shipping. ACS list $254.95 plus shipping. Good for engine models: IO-320,
IO-360, AIO-360, HIO-360, IVO-360, IO-540, IGO-540, IO-720. Here's the scoop:
I have an O360 which came from the factory with a low pressure fuel pump, an LW15472,
which was recalled under a mandatory service bulletin. The Cessna dealer,
Dulles Aviation, of Manassas VA, removed this pump & incorrectly recorded
the model number as LW15473. The error was not caught by Cessna who shipped back
a LW15473 which Dulles subsequently installed. The 25-30psi this pump produces
overwhelmed my carburettor's ability to stop the fuel flow & it only took
me four days to diagnose why my new from the factory engine wouldn't run more
than 10 seconds before dying with fuel dripping out the filtered air box because
I suspected everything I had done first. So, I bought a new low pressure
pump from ACS and removed the one I have available. Total run time on it is
about 30 seconds.
What really bugged me though was that Dulles Aviation insisted they had done nothing
wrong even though they agreed they had installed the wrong pump. So, if
any of you have to have this warrantee type of service done by a dealer, beware,
and make sure they get the numbers, which can be hard to read, right.
Dave Reel - RV8A - Engine now running.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Mechanical Fuel Pump Available |
DAVID REEL wrote:
>
> I have a new fuel pump model LW15473 date code 3905 avialable for
> $200. I'll pay shipping. ACS list $254.95 plus shipping. Good for
> engine models: IO-320, IO-360, AIO-360, HIO-360, IVO-360, IO-540,
> IGO-540, IO-720. Here's the scoop:
>
> I have an O360 which came from the factory with a low pressure fuel
> pump, an LW15472, which was recalled under a mandatory service
> bulletin. The Cessna dealer, Dulles Aviation, of Manassas VA,
> removed this pump & incorrectly recorded the model number as LW15473.
> The error was not caught by Cessna who shipped back a LW15473 which
> Dulles subsequently installed. The 25-30psi this pump produces
> overwhelmed my carburettor's ability to stop the fuel flow & it only
> took me four days to diagnose why my new from the factory engine
> wouldn't run more than 10 seconds before dying with fuel dripping out
> the filtered air box because I suspected everything I had done first.
> So, I bought a new low pressure pump from ACS and removed the one I
> have available. Total run time on it is about 30 seconds.
I thought I was the only one who had been through this fiasco! :-)
Wentworth sent a high pressure pump with my used O-320 engine. Like
Dave's engine, mine would only run a few seconds before fuel would be
pouring out the carb. After considerable time spent troubleshooting, I
disgustedly had the carb in hand and was about to tear it apart when
somebody mentioned "What are the odds you have a high pressure pump?".
The two pumps look identical. I used a Sharpie and wrote the correct
part number on my new low pressure pump. This was one of those deals
that in hindsight I should have figured out in minutes.......but didn't....
I think I still have the several-years-old used high pressure pump in
case anybody wants it for a spare; I have no knowledge of its history.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Mechanical Fuel Pump Available |
I helped a friend with his IO-360 replace his mechanical fuel pump. The
mechanial fuel pump was not making enough pressure to keep the engine
running. The new pump came out of a new box with the part number of a high
pressure fuel pump. The engine would not run more than 5 or 10 seconds.
When we checked the new fuel pump, it had the part number of a low pressure
fuel pump but the number on the box it came out of was high pressure.
The moral of this story is "In God we trust. Everything else we check."
This works even if you are a atheists. Verify the part number on the part
is what it should be. Verify everything and trust no one.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,833 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Mechanical Fuel Pump Available
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 15:47:50 -0600
DAVID REEL wrote:
>
> I have a new fuel pump model LW15473 date code 3905 avialable for
> $200. I'll pay shipping. ACS list $254.95 plus shipping. Good for
> engine models: IO-320, IO-360, AIO-360, HIO-360, IVO-360, IO-540,
> IGO-540, IO-720. Here's the scoop:
>
> I have an O360 which came from the factory with a low pressure fuel
> pump, an LW15472, which was recalled under a mandatory service
> bulletin. The Cessna dealer, Dulles Aviation, of Manassas VA,
> removed this pump & incorrectly recorded the model number as LW15473.
> The error was not caught by Cessna who shipped back a LW15473 which
> Dulles subsequently installed. The 25-30psi this pump produces
> overwhelmed my carburettor's ability to stop the fuel flow & it only
> took me four days to diagnose why my new from the factory engine
> wouldn't run more than 10 seconds before dying with fuel dripping out
> the filtered air box because I suspected everything I had done first.
> So, I bought a new low pressure pump from ACS and removed the one I
> have available. Total run time on it is about 30 seconds.
I thought I was the only one who had been through this fiasco! :-)
Wentworth sent a high pressure pump with my used O-320 engine. Like
Dave's engine, mine would only run a few seconds before fuel would be
pouring out the carb. After considerable time spent troubleshooting, I
disgustedly had the carb in hand and was about to tear it apart when
somebody mentioned "What are the odds you have a high pressure pump?".
The two pumps look identical. I used a Sharpie and wrote the correct
part number on my new low pressure pump. This was one of those deals
that in hindsight I should have figured out in minutes.......but didn't....
I think I still have the several-years-old used high pressure pump in
case anybody wants it for a spare; I have no knowledge of its history.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bert Murillo <bertrv6(at)gmail.com> |
Hello:
I am looking for the best, well not the best but the least expensive
place
to get my Seats for my rv6a.
I only checked Aero Classic,, too much money for my wallett..
Any other, dependable places ?
Appreciate suggestions
\\
Bert
rvf6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Need suggestion for book on fiberglass |
Does anyone know of a good book on how to do the fiberglass work that we
typically do on RV's? Im tired of guessing at every step and bugging
everybody on this list.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List:
>
> We'd just wake up in the morning, scratch ourselves, and see what food we
> can find laying around.
>
>
> Dang, I been doing this for 48 years, was I supposed to be doing something
> different???
>
>
> ;{)
>
>
>
>
> 5.5.2658.2">
> Re: RV-List:
>
>
> We'd just wake up in the morning, scratch ourselves, and see what food we
> can find laying around.
>
>
> Dang, I been doing this for 48 years, was I supposed to be doing something
> different???
>
>
> ;{)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
I bought my foam from Vans and had a local auto upholstery shop do the rest.
Im satisfied with Vans product.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Murillo" <bertrv6(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 4:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Seats
>
> Hello:
>
> I am looking for the best, well not the best but the least expensive
> place
> to get my Seats for my rv6a.
>
> I only checked Aero Classic,, too much money for my wallett..
>
> Any other, dependable places ?
>
> Appreciate suggestions
>
> \\
> Bert
>
>
> rvf6a
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Ashura" <ashuramj(at)hotmail.com> |
Bert, try Flightline Interiors. Abby is very reasonable and product is great!
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Need suggestion for book on fiberglass |
Sam James has a VHS tape on basic fiberglassing, as used in RV's. Andy Gold
at Builder's Books sells it.
Terry
Does anyone know of a good book on how to do the fiberglass work that we
typically do on RV's? Im tired of guessing at every step and bugging
everybody on this list.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Need suggestion for book on fiberglass |
There's two types of fiber glassing, vinyl ester and epoxy. If you have
vinyl ester parts, let me know and we'll hook you up with a friendly Glasair
builder in your area, if it's epoxy work then you'll have to troll over to
the Lancair list.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 6:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Need suggestion for book on fiberglass
Does anyone know of a good book on how to do the fiberglass work that we
typically do on RV's? Im tired of guessing at every step and bugging
everybody on this list.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List:
>
> We'd just wake up in the morning, scratch ourselves, and see what food we
> can find laying around.
>
>
> Dang, I been doing this for 48 years, was I supposed to be doing something
> different???
>
>
> ;{)
>
>
>
>
> 5.5.2658.2">
> Re: RV-List:
>
>
> We'd just wake up in the morning, scratch ourselves, and see what food we
> can find laying around.
>
>
> Dang, I been doing this for 48 years, was I supposed to be doing something
> different???
>
>
> ;{)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need suggestion for book on fiberglass |
You might try contacting Sam James, he has an excellent video for beginners. I
think it is called Composites 101!!!!! If you have specific question, your welcome
to call or email me. I work with composites every day.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: B&C alternator clearance |
Chris, go here and see if this helps, he's using a NAPA 7355 belt:
http://our-rv7a.com/engine/engine110703.htm
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
Chris Brooks wrote:
>
>Konrad, that makes since to me. My algebra is probably flawed but I
>calculated that if I went with a 3-1/4" pulley instead of the 2-3/4" it
>would move the alt. .4" closer to the engine but only gain 1/8" of pulley
>clearance. That .4" puts me back into the prop governor line.
>
>Chris
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: B&C alternator clearance |
If you have a belt length problem, take your current belt to the local auto
parts store. They will have a gauge to measure the length of your belt. Once
you know that, you can choose another one that is the appropriate amount
shorter.
I found a little pulley scrubbing on my -'6's cowl last summer, took the old
belt in and got a replacement that was a centimeter or two shorter. Made all
the difference in the world.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need suggestion for book on fiberglass |
tried emailing you to give you the fiberglass 101 sam james video
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 5:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Need suggestion for book on fiberglass
>
>
> Does anyone know of a good book on how to do the fiberglass work that we
> typically do on RV's? Im tired of guessing at every step and bugging
> everybody on this list.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 235 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 2:59 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List:
>
>
>>
>> We'd just wake up in the morning, scratch ourselves, and see what food we
>> can find laying around.
>>
>>
>> Dang, I been doing this for 48 years, was I supposed to be doing
>> something
>> different???
>>
>>
>> ;{)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > 5.5.2658.2">
>> Re: RV-List:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> We'd just wake up in the morning, scratch ourselves, and see what food we
>> can find laying around.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Dang, I been doing this for 48 years, was I supposed to be doing
>> something
>> different???
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ;{)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
| Subject: | A little adition from an old fart |
Well I couldnt help it I had to add this. If It hadnt have been for all the wars
that took so many out, we would be standing on each other. Now we have to
deal with the fact that oour wars dont make many inroads on overpop., keep in
mind that its not fuel, but pop, that keeps the balance.. Burn me at the stake,
I dont give a damn. Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Mechanical Fuel Pump Available |
I couldn't get any fuel pressure from the mech pump on one of the 0360-a4m's
I bought brand new. After checking the pump and finding it worked fine we
tore off the accessory housing and found that lycoming installed the wrong
gear. So there was no cam to operate the pump.
Steve dinieri
The moral of this story is "In God we trust. Everything else we check."
This works even if you are a atheists. Verify the part number on the part
is what it should be. Verify everything and trust no one.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,833 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Patterson" <kbob(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting |
Here's a good primer on fiberglass work:
http://rv8a.tripod.com/fiberglass.html
I also recommend the Smooth Prime pinhole filler and got a gallon from
Sacramento Sky Ranch (best price).
One gallon was enough for 2 RV's. Spray it on, the roller method is too
uneven.
I just finished painting my plane and would suggest both of the Sam James
videos. They are now for sale.
Fiberglass 101 $20 incl. shipping
Painting 101 $20 incl. shipping
Both for $35
Drop me an email off list. Kbob at cox.net
Kelly Patterson
N716K RV-6A
PHX, AZ
Final Assembly, ready to weigh
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Need suggestion for book on fiberglass
Does anyone know of a good book on how to do the fiberglass work that we
typically do on RV's? Im tired of guessing at every step and bugging
everybody on this list.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sikaflex Tip-up |
| From: | "Wayne" <wayne(at)pedersentransport.com> |
I used Sikaflex for attaching the plexi on my tip up as well as using it as a fairing
at the front of the windshield.
Pretty straight forward just go to their web site
http://www.sikaindustry.ca/ind/ind-mar/ind-mar-window/ind-mar-window-instal.htm
and follow the instructions. Basically its prep, prime, apply and clamp.
Drop me a line if you have specific questions.
Wayne
RV7a in final assembly
C-GOYA
--------
RV 7 eh? C-GOYA
Claresholm, AB (CEJ4)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6955#6955
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Carlton <jcarlton3(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting |
On Thursday 26 January 2006 08:50 am, Kelly Patterson wrote:
>
>
> Here's a good primer on fiberglass work:
>
> http://rv8a.tripod.com/fiberglass.html
>
> I also recommend the Smooth Prime pinhole filler and got a gallon from
> Sacramento Sky Ranch (best price).
> One gallon was enough for 2 RV's. Spray it on, the roller method is too
> uneven.
>
> I just finished painting my plane and would suggest both of the Sam James
> videos. They are now for sale.
> Fiberglass 101 $20 incl. shipping
> Painting 101 $20 incl. shipping
> Both for $35
> Drop me an email off list. Kbob at cox.net
>
> Kelly Patterson
Kelly,
Still have the videos? I would be interested.
Jim
Paypal? check?
Jim Carlton
7614 Chesterfield Ave
Parma, OH 44129
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting |
I just read the fiberglass section at http://rv8a.tripod.com/fiberglass.html. This is all very good information and should be very helpfull to those just beginning to dive into the composite parts that come with your kits. The one thing I didn't see is the prep work need on the part you are working on. When applying a reinforcement or patch to any composite part that is cured, it is necessary to prepare that surface for bonding. I sand usually with 80 grit until there is nothing shiny left, then remove the dust with compressed air. I don't recommend cleaning freshly prepared surfaces with acetone as this just contaminates the surface you are preparing. After wetting out the cloth as described, apply a small amount of resin to the prepared surface using a gloved finger or squeegee. There just isn't enough resin left in the laminate to wet the surface of the part. Use a squeegee or roller to force out any trapped air. I usuall remove any excess resin from the edges of the layup
by
tamping with a folded dry paper towel. The prep work on the part is just as important
as how the layup is prepared to ensure a proper bond.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Torque for Delrin Seals |
Does the use of these seals affect the torque used to tighten the fluid fitting
where they are employed? I use 240 in-lb on my -8 aluminum fitting where I'm
thinking of trying these.
Dave Reel - RV8A - Leaking
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
The best I have found are at walmart in the auto section. About $10 for a
pair that fold up and can be stuck in front, the side, the top, wherever
you need it. I would not use anything else.
John Furey
2 RV6A's - F1 in process
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
IIRC there was something called a KOGER sunshade.......memory......
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Furey <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
>Sent: Jan 26, 2006 1:10 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Canopy shade
>
>
>The best I have found are at walmart in the auto section. About $10 for a
>pair that fold up and can be stuck in front, the side, the top, wherever
>you need it. I would not use anything else.
>
>John Furey
>2 RV6A's - F1 in process
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dsvs(at)comcast.net |
Available from the Vans catalogue
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>
> IIRC there was something called a KOGER sunshade.......memory......
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: John Furey <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
> >Sent: Jan 26, 2006 1:10 PM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Canopy shade
> >
> >
> >The best I have found are at walmart in the auto section. About $10 for a
> >pair that fold up and can be stuck in front, the side, the top, wherever
> >you need it. I would not use anything else.
> >
> >John Furey
> >2 RV6A's - F1 in process
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting |
Mickey, This subject was discussed at length on the Lancair List. The Lancair manuals
recommend cleaning freshly prepped surfaces with acetone. Most builders
especially professional composite workers and engineers have performend test
that show improved bonding especially in peel strength when acetone or other solvents
are not used. If you apply fresh epoxy to the sanded area and work it
into the surface any minute particles of dust will mix with the epoxy just like
cotton flox or micro ballons and become a part of the structure. If you use
acetone, you are just making acetone soup and contaminating the freshly prepared
surface. Some amount of acetone residue will always remain in the surface and
weaken the bond.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels(at)fmtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting |
I seem to remember from my Lancair build that the study I recall said it
took something like 12 hours for acetone or MC to totally evaporate from
the surface. That could be speeded up with the use of a hair dryer or
other heat source. So if you have to remove contamination from a
critical bond area, don't get in a hurry.
Brian Alley wrote:
>
>Mickey, This subject was discussed at length on the Lancair List. The Lancair
manuals recommend cleaning freshly prepped surfaces with acetone. Most builders
especially professional composite workers and engineers have performend test
that show improved bonding especially in peel strength when acetone or other
solvents are not used. If you apply fresh epoxy to the sanded area and work it
into the surface any minute particles of dust will mix with the epoxy just like
cotton flox or micro ballons and become a part of the structure. If you use
acetone, you are just making acetone soup and contaminating the freshly prepared
surface. Some amount of acetone residue will always remain in the surface
and weaken the bond.
>
>BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
>CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
>101 Caroline Circle
>Hurricane, WV 25526
>304-562-6800 home
>304-395-4932 cell
>
>How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "czechsix(at)juno.com" <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Transition training in a -6A or -7A near Iowa? |
Guys,
AIG wants me to get 1 hour of dual with a CFI in a -6A or -7A prior to covering
my first flight in my -8A. Anybody know of a CFI in the midwest who could do
this? The closest person I'm aware of is Ben Johnson in Mesquite, TX. That's
quite a ways to travel for an hour of dual and I'd rather find someone closer
to home if possible (I'm in Cedar Rapids, Iowa).
Please let me know off-list at czechsix(at)juno.com
Thanks!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D ready to roll....
Guys,
AIG wants me to get 1 hour of dual with a CFI in a -6A or -7A prior to covering
my first flight in my -8A. Anybody know of a CFI in the midwest who could do
this? The closest person I'm aware of is Ben Johnson in Mesquite, TX. That's quite
a ways to travel for an hour of dual and I'd rather find someone closer to
home if possible (I'm in Cedar Rapids, Iowa).
Please let me know off-list at czechsix(at)juno.com
Thanks!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D ready to roll....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
The least expensive way might be to buy from someone changing or upgrading. Maybe
salvage also. Could take some patience waiting for a deal to show up.
Next to that might be making your own. I flew on my home brew seats for several
years before upgrading to Orndorf (sp?) products. Wasn't too tough of a job.
Bought an old sewing machine and got after it.
The Van's foam may be the way to go now days. I bought and cut my own foam.
Bryan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7085#7085
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JEllis9847(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gluing Canopy RV9A Tip-up |
You can go to:
www.rvwiki.org/index.php?title=Main_Page
There are some pictures and installation notes under the "canopy
construction" subject that might answer
your question about using Sikaflex adhesive for a tip-up canopy.
Jim Ellis
RV9-A Tip-up
wheel pants
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | Transition training in a -6A or -7A near Iowa? |
Try Tom Irlbeck http://www.mnwing.org/cgi-bin/WebObjects/mnwing.woa ,
look under Transition Training.
I got quite a few hours from Tom. Great Guy. Former Top Gun Instructor.
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 1:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Transition training in a -6A or -7A near Iowa?
Guys,
AIG wants me to get 1 hour of dual with a CFI in a -6A or -7A prior to
covering my first flight in my -8A. Anybody know of a CFI in the
midwest who could do this? The closest person I'm aware of is Ben
Johnson in Mesquite, TX. That's quite a ways to travel for an hour of
dual and I'd rather find someone closer to home if possible (I'm in
Cedar Rapids, Iowa).
Please let me know off-list at czechsix(at)juno.com
Thanks!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D ready to roll....
Guys,
AIG wants me to get 1 hour of dual with a CFI in a -6A or -7A prior to
covering my first flight in my -8A. Anybody know of a CFI in the midwest
who could do this? The closest person I'm aware of is Ben Johnson in
Mesquite, TX. That's quite a ways to travel for an hour of dual and I'd
rather find someone closer to home if possible (I'm in Cedar Rapids,
Iowa).
Please let me know off-list at czechsix(at)juno.com
Thanks!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D ready to roll....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Transition training in a -6A or -7A near Iowa? |
>
> Try Tom Irlbeck
> http://www.mnwing.org/cgi-bin/WebObjects/mnwing.woa , look
> under Transition Training.
> I got quite a few hours from Tom. Great Guy. Former Top Gun
> Instructor.
>
> John L. Danielson
Tom is in FL until about the beginning of May. FYI, he has done something
around 30 first flights for RV guys around here.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 708 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on Lycoming 320 and
360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires that the
cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are over 800 than within 60 hours....
This could cost a fortune, who pays for this? I am a
recent aircraft owner for the first time and have not encountered this before.
I cant imagine that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some
kind of liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil" <phatphill(at)comcast.net> |
Looking for someone in the Snta Ana arer that can give Duel in a RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
>
> I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on
> Lycoming 320 and 360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires
> that the cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are
> over 800 than within 60 hours.... This could cost a fortune,
> who pays for this? I am a recent aircraft owner for the first
> time and have not encountered this before. I cant imagine
> that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some kind of
> liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
>
> - Matt
If you have the cylinders on an RV, compliance is not required. However,
most RVers will comply, and I understand that for four new cylinders the
price from ECI will be $1300 total. They aren't paying for the labor.
Welcome to an imperfect world.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 708 hours (lucky, at least for now, to have Millennium
cylinders)
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
At 06:56 PM 1/26/2006, you wrote:
>
>I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on Lycoming 320
>and 360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires that the
>cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are over 800 than within
>60 hours.... This could cost a fortune, who pays for this? I am a
>recent aircraft owner for the first time and have not encountered this
>before. I cant imagine that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some
>kind of liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
>
>- Matt
Before you get upset read the AD. It is probably on their website and
may not even apply to you.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
It is for a certified plane (Grumman). I guess that I dont have to comply until
it is at 800 hours, but it will still hurt the resell value if I
dont do it.
How often do people get AD's that cost them thousands of dollars on a whim? At
least with cars they are recalls and the manufacturer
picks up the cost of replacement...
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 20:06:31 -0600
Subject: RE: RV-List: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
>
>
>
>
> >
> > I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on
> > Lycoming 320 and 360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires
> > that the cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are
> > over 800 than within 60 hours.... This could cost a fortune,
> > who pays for this? I am a recent aircraft owner for the first
> > time and have not encountered this before. I cant imagine
> > that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some kind of
> > liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
> >
> > - Matt
>
> If you have the cylinders on an RV, compliance is not required.
> However,
> most RVers will comply, and I understand that for four new cylinders
> the
> price from ECI will be $1300 total. They aren't paying for the labor.
> Welcome to an imperfect world.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A N66AP 708 hours (lucky, at least for now, to have Millennium
> cylinders)
> Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B&C alternator clearance |
Chris,
I have the B&C alternator and have over 1200 hours with it. It works
perfect, no problem with clearance.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 4:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: B&C alternator clearance
>
> I currently have Vans 35amp alt. With a Gates 7355 belt (36-1/4") on an
> O-360 C/S. Somewhere between 3-3.5 g's the pulley makes contact with lower
> cowl.
> I tried the next size shorter belt 7350 (35-5/8") but it's too tight and
> holds the alternator against the Stainless oil line from the governor. I
> would buy a B&C L40 if I thought it would give more clearance, but would
> rather save the money if it wouldn't fit with the shorter belt.
> Does anyone have a B&C L40 on a O-360 with a constant speed prop, and
> using
> a 7350 (35-5/8") (890mm) belt? If I know this combination works I'll order
> the B&C.
>
> Chris Brooks
> RV6
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
They're paying $475 for labor, it's included in the $1350 exchange
price that they are charging me. The AD doesn't affect all ECi
cylinders, just the "Classic Cast". The replacements are "Titan" which
are a step up. They also pay shipping one way.
Dave
>If you have the cylinders on an RV, compliance is not required. However,
>most RVers will comply, and I understand that for four new cylinders the
>price from ECI will be $1300 total. They aren't paying for the labor.
>Welcome to an imperfect world.
>
>Alex Peterson
>RV6-A N66AP 708 hours (lucky, at least for now, to have Millennium
>cylinders)
>Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eddyfernan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
FYI.
This does not apply to the new ECI Titan cylinders that many kit builders including
myself purchased. Of course you can double check that with ECI .
Eddy Fernandez
RV-9a Finishing
ECI O-320
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Johnson <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on Lycoming 320 and
360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires that the
cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are over 800 than within 60
hours.... This could cost a fortune, who pays for this? I am a
recent aircraft owner for the first time and have not encountered this before.
I
cant imagine that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some
kind of liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
ECI will pay for a pro-rated labor reimbursement for removal & installation.
http://www.eci2fly.com/pdf/05-8.pdf
last paragraph.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alex Peterson [mailto:alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 9:07 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
>
> -->
>
>
>
> >
...They aren't paying for the labor.
> Welcome to an imperfect world.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A N66AP 708 hours (lucky, at least for now, to have Millennium
> cylinders)
> Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
First of all, determine whether the AD applies to the exact serial
number cylinders you have. Given your overhaul is so recent, it is very
unlikely, but get with your overhauler and be CERTAIN. It is the owner's
responsibility. An engine still under warranty is likely to get much
more consideration than the basic coverage mentioned in the AD.
Matt Johnson wrote:
>
> It is for a certified plane (Grumman). I guess that I dont have to comply until
it is at 800 hours, but it will still hurt the resell value if I
> dont do it.
>
> How often do people get AD's that cost them thousands of dollars on a whim? At
least with cars they are recalls and the manufacturer
> picks up the cost of replacement...
>
> - Matt
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 20:06:31 -0600
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on
>>> Lycoming 320 and 360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires
>>> that the cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are
>>> over 800 than within 60 hours.... This could cost a fortune,
>>> who pays for this? I am a recent aircraft owner for the first
>>> time and have not encountered this before. I cant imagine
>>> that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some kind of
>>> liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
>>>
>>> - Matt
>> If you have the cylinders on an RV, compliance is not required.
>> However,
>> most RVers will comply, and I understand that for four new cylinders
>> the
>> price from ECI will be $1300 total. They aren't paying for the labor.
>> Welcome to an imperfect world.
>>
>> Alex Peterson
>> RV6-A N66AP 708 hours (lucky, at least for now, to have Millennium
>> cylinders)
>> Maple Grove, MN
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | first real dimples |
Yes Dan, I used a pneumatic squeezer extensivly and had the same effect.
Just set a rivit in the dimple and it will show you if the dept is correct.
Use some scrap alum. sheet for practice when you go to a different thickness
to set the dimple depth. I think they say, your not building a swiss watch
here. Have fun. It will look great.
Jim Bowen
RV-8 QB
>From: Dan <dan(at)rdan.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: first real dimples
>Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 19:10:33 -0800 (PST)
>
>
>Ok I am just now setting my first real dimples in the HS spars and ribs,
> pneumatic squeezer, do I want to see the slight ring imprint also ,? or
>am I just a little deep ?
> How about when I get to the skin ??
> Thanks all,.,
>
> Dan Hatch
> -8 QB
> N728RV Reserved
>
> and gettin on a roll !
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
| From: | "N395V" <N395V(at)direcway.com> |
matt(at)n559rv.com wrote:
>
> How often do people get AD's that cost them thousands of dollars on a whim? At
least with cars they are recalls and the manufacturer
> picks up the cost of replacement.
Do a search on the 400 series Cessna wing spar AD.
$60,000 out of every owners pocket because Cessna did a theoretical study that
contains "confidential data not available to the public"
No reimbursement by Cessna, all out of the owners pocket. It affects so many planes
it will take Cessna 5 years to mfg all the kits.
--------
Milt
N395V
F1 Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7251#7251
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
Perhaps it's time for a class action suit against Cessna.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of N395V
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 8:07 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
matt(at)n559rv.com wrote:
>
> How often do people get AD's that cost them thousands of dollars on a
whim? At least with cars they are recalls and the manufacturer
> picks up the cost of replacement.
Do a search on the 400 series Cessna wing spar AD.
$60,000 out of every owners pocket because Cessna did a theoretical study
that contains "confidential data not available to the public"
No reimbursement by Cessna, all out of the owners pocket. It affects so
many planes it will take Cessna 5 years to mfg all the kits.
--------
Milt
N395V
F1 Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7251#7251
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Keep in mind that the longer you run the cylinders, the less ECI will
"discount" the replacement Titan cylinders.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 8:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
>
> I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on
> Lycoming 320 and 360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires
> that the cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are
> over 800 than within 60 hours.... This could cost a fortune,
> who pays for this? I am a recent aircraft owner for the first
> time and have not encountered this before. I cant imagine
> that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some kind of
> liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
>
> - Matt
If you have the cylinders on an RV, compliance is not required.
However,
most RVers will comply, and I understand that for four new cylinders the
price from ECI will be $1300 total. They aren't paying for the labor.
Welcome to an imperfect world.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 708 hours (lucky, at least for now, to have Millennium
cylinders)
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
First make sure you cylinders are the ones affected . . . I'm told that
"Classic Cast" cylinders haven't been made since 2001?? "Titan" cylinders
(post 2001) are not included in the AD. If you engine only has 40 hours on
it maybe they are ECi "Titan" cylinders?
Good Luck,
Bob
On 1/26/06, Matt Johnson wrote:
>
>
> I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on Lycoming 320
> and 360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires that the
> cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are over 800 than within
> 60 hours.... This could cost a fortune, who pays for this? I am a
> recent aircraft owner for the first time and have not encountered this
> before. I cant imagine that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some
> kind of liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
>
> - Matt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
Another point . . . these cylinders were "certified" by the FAA to "perform
equal to the original manufacturer's part" . . . shouldn't the FAA pick up
their share of the blame and cost?? Perhaps ECi doesn't agree with the
FAA's conclusion . . . it becomes a sticky situation?!
Regards,
Bob
On 1/27/06, Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>
> Perhaps it's time for a class action suit against Cessna.
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of N395V
> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 8:07 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
>
>
> matt(at)n559rv.com wrote:
> >
> > How often do people get AD's that cost them thousands of dollars on a
> whim? At least with cars they are recalls and the manufacturer
> > picks up the cost of replacement.
>
>
> Do a search on the 400 series Cessna wing spar AD.
>
> $60,000 out of every owners pocket because Cessna did a theoretical study
> that contains "confidential data not available to the public"
>
> No reimbursement by Cessna, all out of the owners pocket. It affects so
> many planes it will take Cessna 5 years to mfg all the kits.
>
> --------
> Milt
> N395V
> F1 Rocket
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D7251#7251
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
> Perhaps it's time for a class action suit against Cessna.
I believe that's exactly the reason Cessna stopped making single engined
airplanes in the 80's..............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
On Jan 27, 2006, at 8:12 AM, Bruce Gray wrote:
>
> Perhaps it's time for a class action suit against Cessna.
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
> (snip)
>
> Do a search on the 400 series Cessna wing spar AD.
>
> (snip)
C'mon Bruce. A lawsuit on planes that haven't been manufactured in
over 30 years? Should t-34 owners sue Beech for the wing spar ADs on
those airplanes? Small wonder that it's difficult to find honest
support for older airplanes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
| From: | "hemico" <mdasilva(at)ameritech.net> |
Here is an interesting article on Aviation Product Liability.
http://www.avweb.com/news/avlaw/181885-1.html
Bob C...There is a small section in the article that speaks to FAA certification.
Regards,
Skippy
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7309#7309
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <dan.beadle(at)inclinesoftworks.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
I am a C414A owner. I watched this AD progress through. The cost is
probably closer to $90K with real labor rates.
FORTUNATELY, like the eci AD, it only applies in certain situations - in my
case with 18000 airframe hours. I have 4500 hours on the airframe and fly
250 hours a year. With a little math... That is another 52 years of service
I can expect.
And, if I were convinced that it were a safety issue now, I would apply the
AD. $90K is only 15% of the value of the airplane. And it is far less than
the value of my life.
I am a little bit miffed that Cessna will not share the engineering data so
we can understand it - but that is probably the result of lawyers afraid
that the data will hang them.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Freeman
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 7:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
On Jan 27, 2006, at 8:12 AM, Bruce Gray wrote:
>
> Perhaps it's time for a class action suit against Cessna.
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
> (snip)
>
> Do a search on the 400 series Cessna wing spar AD.
>
> (snip)
C'mon Bruce. A lawsuit on planes that haven't been manufactured in
over 30 years? Should t-34 owners sue Beech for the wing spar ADs on
those airplanes? Small wonder that it's difficult to find honest
support for older airplanes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Johnson <rv(at)discursion.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
In my humble opinion, that is precisely the wrong answer. I watched the
Cessna 400 series wing spar AD unfold very closely, and at the core of
it, pretty much everyone agrees that Cessna's actions were the result of
trying to limit its exposure to liability suits. The only spar failures
recorded were in airframes that always flew fully loaded, low down in
the summer thermals, and with a light fuel load- precisely the
conditions which apply maximum stress to the wing spars. BUT, Cessna is
still on the liability hook for airplanes sold many years ago, because
they have supplied parts for them which resets the liability period for
another 17 years.
They are in an impossible situation with lawyers coming from all over
the place to take a piece. Damned if they don't take action on the
slightest indication of a problem, damned if they do because owners will
sue them for making them spend the money. My opinion? Stop class action
and liability suits on aircraft manufacturers, because that's the root
of the problem (and promote an understanding among all of mankind that
life has risks...the failure to accept this has created the litigious
business climate we have today). The Cessna 400 series wing is built
hell for stout, but that doesn't amount for shit in front of a jury.
Dave
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>Perhaps it's time for a class action suit against Cessna.
>
>Bruce
>www.glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of N395V
>Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 8:07 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
>
>
>matt(at)n559rv.com wrote:
>
>
>>How often do people get AD's that cost them thousands of dollars on a
>>
>>
>whim? At least with cars they are recalls and the manufacturer
>
>
>>picks up the cost of replacement.
>>
>>
>
>
>Do a search on the 400 series Cessna wing spar AD.
>
>$60,000 out of every owners pocket because Cessna did a theoretical study
>that contains "confidential data not available to the public"
>
>No reimbursement by Cessna, all out of the owners pocket. It affects so
>many planes it will take Cessna 5 years to mfg all the kits.
>
>--------
>Milt
>N395V
>F1 Rocket
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7251#7251
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
Dave, you are completely right IMHO but it shouldn't stop at aircraft
manufactures. There should be very strict criteria applied to class action
lawsuits as well.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Dave Johnson
Date: 01/27/06 10:25:44
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
In my humble opinion, that is precisely the wrong answer. I watched the
Cessna 400 series wing spar AD unfold very closely, and at the core of
it, pretty much everyone agrees that Cessna's actions were the result of
trying to limit its exposure to liability suits. The only spar failures
recorded were in airframes that always flew fully loaded, low down in
the summer thermals, and with a light fuel load- precisely the
conditions which apply maximum stress to the wing spars. BUT, Cessna is
still on the liability hook for airplanes sold many years ago, because
they have supplied parts for them which resets the liability period for
another 17 years.
They are in an impossible situation with lawyers coming from all over
the place to take a piece. Damned if they don't take action on the
slightest indication of a problem, damned if they do because owners will
sue them for making them spend the money. My opinion? Stop class action
and liability suits on aircraft manufacturers, because that's the root
of the problem (and promote an understanding among all of mankind that
life has risks...the failure to accept this has created the litigious
business climate we have today). The Cessna 400 series wing is built
hell for stout, but that doesn't amount for shit in front of a jury.
Dave
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>Perhaps it's time for a class action suit against Cessna.
>
>Bruce
>www.glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of N395V
>Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 8:07 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
>
>
>matt(at)n559rv.com wrote:
>
>
>>How often do people get AD's that cost them thousands of dollars on a
>>
>>
>whim? At least with cars they are recalls and the manufacturer
>
>
>>picks up the cost of replacement.
>>
>>
>
>
>Do a search on the 400 series Cessna wing spar AD.
>
>$60,000 out of every owners pocket because Cessna did a theoretical study
>that contains "confidential data not available to the public"
>
>No reimbursement by Cessna, all out of the owners pocket. It affects so
>many planes it will take Cessna 5 years to mfg all the kits.
>
>--------
>Milt
>N395V
>F1 Rocket
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D7251#7251
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Carlton <jcarlton3(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | VS skin attachment |
I'll research, but maybe a bit of help. Attaching the VS skin to the nose ribs
I have a little dimple occurring where the rib flange pushes against the
skin. I'm trying to match drill and it's leaving a pretty good dent. Any
ideas? Has this happened to other RV10 vertical stab builders?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Carlton <jcarlton3(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | dent in vertical stab skin |
thanks for the time guys but my research found the answer on Tim Olson's
site...thanks Tim and I KNEW there was an answer out there...just wish I
found it before I dented the skin...and I even read the rest of the plans but
didn't see the reference in the horizontal stab section...
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Advanced Flight Systems AF2500 Engine Monitor - Fuel Flow Sensor |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
I just got my fuel flow sensor for my AF2500 Engine Monitor and
I'm wondering on the best place/way to mount it.
(The sensor is an Electronics International Inc (Bend, Orgeon)
Model FT-60.)
I'm building a 9 (same fuse more-or-less as the 7). I'm
putting in an IO-320 from Aerosport. Plans have you run the
fuel feed line from the AFP high pressure pump below the tank
selector valve to the firewall between the center floor
stiffeners.
There's not a whole lot of room in there and the latest style
sensor is rectangular block of red anodized aluminum measuring
some 1.25 x 1.25 x 2". I believe the preferred method is to
mount it with the wires exiting the top - which means the
mounting bolts would be vertical.
Anyone out there have experience with this sensor ? Did you
locate it in the cabin floor tunnel forward of the pump ? Did
you bolt it to the floor, or glue it ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Advanced Flight Systems AF2500 Engine Monitor - Fuel Flow |
Sensor
Gerry,
I used double sided tape. Along with the fuel lines I think it will stay
put. I did have to build a "dog house" over the cut out in the tunnel
cover. Hope this helps.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Advanced Flight Systems AF2500 Engine Monitor - Fuel
Flow Sensor
I just got my fuel flow sensor for my AF2500 Engine Monitor and
I'm wondering on the best place/way to mount it.
(The sensor is an Electronics International Inc (Bend, Orgeon)
Model FT-60.)
I'm building a 9 (same fuse more-or-less as the 7). I'm
putting in an IO-320 from Aerosport. Plans have you run the
fuel feed line from the AFP high pressure pump below the tank
selector valve to the firewall between the center floor
stiffeners.
There's not a whole lot of room in there and the latest style
sensor is rectangular block of red anodized aluminum measuring
some 1.25 x 1.25 x 2". I believe the preferred method is to
mount it with the wires exiting the top - which means the
mounting bolts would be vertical.
Anyone out there have experience with this sensor ? Did you
locate it in the cabin floor tunnel forward of the pump ? Did
you bolt it to the floor, or glue it ?
__g__
=========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
What is easy way to determine which airports have autogas aka mogas for planning
XC stops?
Indiana Larry, RV7
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Check out www.airnav.com
Type in the airport identifier(s) that you need and it will list sevices at
each in regards to what fuel is available, as well as fairly current prices.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Getting close
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 9:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: mogas
>
> What is easy way to determine which airports have autogas aka mogas for
> planning XC stops?
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
Thank you everyone who has responded to my posts. These forums are very helpful
and provide a lot of insite and guidance...
Regarding these AD's it amazes me that the manufacturer is not liable. I have always
heard of the huge amounts of liability that
manufacturers take in the aviation field yet they are not held responsible for
these blantantly defective parts in most of the issued
AD's... very strange.
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "N395V" <N395V(at)direcway.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 05:07:12 -0800
Subject: RV-List: Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
>
>
> matt(at)n559rv.com wrote:
> >
> > How often do people get AD's that cost them thousands of dollars on a
> whim? At least with cars they are recalls and the manufacturer
> > picks up the cost of replacement.
>
>
>
> Do a search on the 400 series Cessna wing spar AD.
>
> $60,000 out of every owners pocket because Cessna did a theoretical
> study that contains "confidential data not available to the public"
>
> No reimbursement by Cessna, all out of the owners pocket. It affects
> so many planes it will take Cessna 5 years to mfg all the kits.
>
> --------
> Milt
> N395V
> F1 Rocket
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7251#7251
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight Systems AF2500 Engine Monitor - Fuel Flow |
Sensor
Here is where I mounted mine:
http://members.hopkinsville.net/bhester/Baffling.htm Click the picture
to view it bigger.
Can't tell you how well this we be yet. I got the idea from the RV6A
that Superior has on display at Sun-n-fun and Oshkosh.
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
>I just got my fuel flow sensor for my AF2500 Engine Monitor and
>I'm wondering on the best place/way to mount it.
>
>(The sensor is an Electronics International Inc (Bend, Orgeon)
>Model FT-60.)
>
>I'm building a 9 (same fuse more-or-less as the 7). I'm
>putting in an IO-320 from Aerosport. Plans have you run the
>fuel feed line from the AFP high pressure pump below the tank
>selector valve to the firewall between the center floor
>stiffeners.
>
>There's not a whole lot of room in there and the latest style
>sensor is rectangular block of red anodized aluminum measuring
>some 1.25 x 1.25 x 2". I believe the preferred method is to
>mount it with the wires exiting the top - which means the
>mounting bolts would be vertical.
>
>Anyone out there have experience with this sensor ? Did you
>locate it in the cabin floor tunnel forward of the pump ? Did
>you bolt it to the floor, or glue it ?
>
>__g__
>
>==========================================================
>Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
It will also let you say what type fuel you are looking for and show all
airports within so many miles of a specific airport. You should also
call ahead to insure the info is current. We use to have it but no
longer do. I think the info still says we do. I know two airports not
far from here that has it. Murray, KY and Springfeild, TN
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
Jeff Orear wrote:
>
>Check out www.airnav.com
>
>Type in the airport identifier(s) that you need and it will list sevices at
>each in regards to what fuel is available, as well as fairly current prices.
>
>Regards,
>
>Jeff Orear
>RV6A N782P (reserved)
>Getting close
>Peshtigo, WI
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
>To:
>Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 9:59 PM
>Subject: RV-List: mogas
>
>
>
>
>>
>>What is easy way to determine which airports have autogas aka mogas for
>>planning XC stops?
>>
>>Indiana Larry, RV7
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Larry, AirNav.Com has a Fuel Price program. You can use it several ways.
But, it also includes a function that enables you to input your departure
and arriving airport and specify either the fastest or cheapest route. You
can also specify some parameters such as max leg distance, etc. It will
then compute up to 10 routes and give you how much you would save (I presume
over the average price along the route) each route as well as the distance
of each route, etc.
Worth using, but as others have said, sometimes the fuel prices and
availability are not up todate so you should call ahead.
Ed A
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 10:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: mogas
>
> What is easy way to determine which airports have autogas aka mogas for
> planning XC stops?
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | FAA list of TIS (mode-s) broadcast sites as of 20 January 2006 |
Got this off another list I'm on. If you were wondering if Mode S was a
lost investment, this may help.
-----Original Message-----
From: pipercherokee(at)yahoogroups.com [mailto:pipercherokee(at)yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of paul k. sanchez
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 7:30 PM
Subject: [pipercherokee] FAA list of TIS (mode-s) broadcast sites as of 20
January 2006
Got this list from Rebecca Trexler (rebecca.trexler(at)faa.gov) at the FAA
public affairs office. It shows 115 broadcast sites (each 55 nm radius for
TIS) as of 20 January 2006. And still 97 broadcast sites after year 2012.
But without the Garmin GTX330 you can't get the TIS on your Garmin
MX20/GNS430/GNS480/GNS530 or Avidyne display.
Operational MODE-S Facilities Providing Traffic Information Service (mode-s)
Data as of January 20, 2006
RADAR ST FAC PRIMARY TIS
# FACILITY IDENT RDR TYPE REGION MEMO
1 ABILENE TX ABI ASR-8 ASW SEG 1
2 ALBANY NY ALB ASR-9 AEA
3 ALBUQUERQUE NM ABQ ASR-9 ASW
4 ANDREWS AFB MD ADW ASR-9 AEA
5 ATLANTA GA ATL ASR-9 ASO
6 ATLANTA 2 (LAWRENCEVILLE) GA LZU ASR-9 ASO
7 AUSTIN TX AUS ASR-9 ASW
8 BALTIMORE MD BWI ASR-9 AEA
9 BEALE (MARYSVILLE) CA BAB ASR-9 AWP
10 BILLINGS MT BIL ASR-7 ANM SEG 1
11 BIRMINGHAM AL BHM ASR-9 ASO
12 BISMARCK ND BIS ASR-8 AGL SEG 2
13 BOSTON MA BOS ASR-9 ANE
14 BRISTOL/JOHNSON/KINGSPORT TN TRI ASR-8 ASO SEG 2
15 BUFFALO NY BUF ASR-9 AEA
16 BURBANK CA BUR ASR-9 AWP
17 CAMP PENDLETON CA NFG ASR-9 AWP
18 CEDAR RAPIDS IA CID ASR-9 ACE
19 CHARLESTON SC CHS ASR-9 ASO
20 CHARLOTTE NC CLT ASR-9 ASO
21 CHESTER NH MHTT ASR-9 ANE
22 CHICAGO IL ORD ASR-9 AGL
23 CHICAGO (TINLEY PARK) IL QXM ASR-9 AGL
24 CLEVELAND OH CLE ASR-9 AGL
25 COLUMBUS OH CMH ASR-9 AGL
26 CORPUS CHRISTI TX CRP ASR-8 ASW SEG 1
27 COVINGTON/CINCINNATI KY CVG ASR-9 ASO
28 DAYTON OH DAY ASR-9 AGL
29 DAYTONA BEACH FL DAB ASR-9 ASO
30 DENVER CO DVX ASR-9 ANM
31 DENVER-2 (PLATTEVILLE) CO GXY ASR-9 ANM
32 DES MOINES IA DSM ASR-9 ACE
33 DETROIT "A" Site (Romulus) MI DTWA ASR-9 AGL
34 DETROIT "C" SITE (Northville/Pontiac) MI DTWC ASR-9 AGL
35 DFW - 1 TX DFW ASR-9 ASW
36 DFW - 2 (AIRFIELD WEST) TX QZB ASR-9 ASW
37 DFW - 3 (AZLE) TX PA2 ASR-9 ASW
38 DFW - 4 (SACHSE) TX MI2 ASR-9 ASW
39 DULUTH MN DLH ASR-8 AGL SEG 2
40 EL PASO TX ELP ASR-9 ASW
41 EVANSVILLE IN EVV ASR-8 AGL SEG 2
42 FARGO ND FAR ASR-7 AGL SEG 1
43 FAYETTEVILLE NC FAY ASR-8 ASO
44 FORT LAUDERDALE FL FLL ASR-9 ASO
45 FORT SMITH AR FSM ASR-8 ASW SEG 1
46 GAINESVILLE FL GNV ASR-9 ASO
47 GRAND RAPIDS MI GRR ASR-9 AGL
48 GREAT FALLS MT GTF ASR-8 ANM SEG 2
50 HONOLULU HI HNL ASR-9 AWP
51 HOUSTON INTERNATIONAL TX IAH ASR-9 ASW
52 HOUSTON/HOBBY TX HOU ASR-9 ASW
53 INDIANAPOLIS IN IND ASR-9 AGL
54 ISLIP NY ISP ASR-9 AEA
55 JACKSON MS JAN ASR-8 ASO SEG 2
56 JACKSONVILLE FL JAX ASR-9 ASO
57 JFK - NEW YORK NY JFK ASR-9 AEA
58 KANSAS CITY MO MCI ASR-9 ACE
59 LAKE CHARLES LA LCH ASR-8 ASW SEG 2
60 LAS VEGAS NV LAS ASR-9 AWP
61 LITTLE ROCK AR LIT ASR-8 ASW SEG 1
62 LONG BEACH CA LGB ASR-9 AWP
63 LOS ANGELES-1 CA LAX ASR-9 AWP
64 LOS ANGELES-2 CA LAXA ASR-9 AWP
65 LOUISVILLE KY SDF ASR-9 ASO
66 MADISON WI MSN ASR-9 AGL
67 MARTINSBURG WV MRB ASR-9 AEA
68 MEMPHIS TN MEM ASR-9 ASO
69 MIAMI FL MIA ASR-9 ASO
70 MILWAUKEE WI MKE ASR-9 AGL
71 MINNEAPOLIS MN MSP ASR-9 AGL
72 MOFFETT/SAN JOSE CA NUQ ASR-9 AWP
73 NASHVILLE TN BNA ASR-9 ASO
74 NEW ORLEANS LA MSY ASR-9 ASW
75 NEWARK NJ EWR ASR-9 AEA
76 NORFOLK VA ORF ASR-9 AEA
77 OAKLAND CA OAK ASR-9 AWP
78 OKLAHOMA CITY OK OKC ASR-9 ASW
79 OMAHA NE OFF ASR-9 ACE
80 ONTARIO CA ONT ASR-9 AWP
81 ORLANDO FL MCO ASR-9 ASO
82 PALM SPRINGS CA PSP ASR-9 AWP
83 PENSACOLA FL PNS ASR-8 ASO SEG 1
84 PHILADELPHIA PA PHL ASR-9 AEA
85 PHOENIX AZ PHX ASR-9 AWP
86 PITTSBURGH PA PIT ASR-9 AEA
87 PORTLAND OR PDX ASR-9 ANM
88 PORTLAND ME CUMB ASR-9 ANE
89 PROVIDENCE (COVENTRY) RI PVD ASR-9 ANE
90 RALEIGH/DURHAM NC RDU ASR-9 ASO
91 ROANOKE VA ROA ASR-8 AEA SEG 2
92 ROCHESTER NY ROC ASR-9 AEA
93 SACRAMENTO CA MCC ASR-9 AWP
94 SAINT LOUIS-2 MO STL2 ASR-9 ACE
95 SALT LAKE CITY UT SLC ASR-9 ANM
96 SAN ANTONIO TX SAT ASR-9 ASW
97 SAN DIEGO/MIRAMAR CA NKX ASR-9 AWP
98 SANTA BARBARA CA SBA ASR-8 AWP SEG 1
99 SARASOTA FL SRQ ASR-9 ASO
100 SCOTT AFB IL BLV ASR-9 AGL
101 SEATTLE WA SEAB ASR-9 ANM
102 SHREVEPORT (BOSSIER CITY) LA BAD ASR-9 ASW
103 SPOKANE WA GEG ASR-9 ANM
104 STEWART NY SWF ASR-9 AEA
105 SYRACUSE NY SYR ASR-9 AEA
106 TALLAHASSEE FL TLH ASR-8 ASO SEG 2
107 TAMPA FL TPA ASR-9 ASO
108 TUCSON AZ TUS ASR-9 AWP
109 TULSA OK TUL ASR-9 ASW
110 WASHINGTON DULLES VA IAD ASR-9 AEA
111 WASHINGTON REAGAN NATIONAL (DC) VA DCA ASR-9 AEA
112 WHITE PLAINS NY HPN ASR-9 AEA
113 WICHITA KS ICT ASR-9 ACE
114 WILMINGTON NC ILM ASR-8 ASO SEG 2
115 WINDSOR LOCKS CT BDL ASR-9 ANE
SEGMENT 1 SITES NOT PROVIDING TIS SERVICE
1 BANGOR ME COMMISSIONED ASR-11 (11/1/2004)
2 SPRINGFIELD MO COMMISSIONED ASR-11 (4/13/2005)
3 MACON GA MODE-S LEAPFROGGED TO FAY (6/15/2003)
4 MIDLAND TX NOT PRESENTLY OPERATING IN MODE-S
115 TOTAL OPERATIONAL MODE-S FACILITIES PROVIDING TIS SERVICE AS OF
1/20/2006
8 SEGMENT 1 REMAINING
10 SEGMENT 2
97 FACILITIES PROVIDING TIS SERVICE AFTER COMPLETION OF SEGMENTS 1 & 2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
Thanks Skippy,
An interesting article for all to read!
I actually made the comment somewhat "tongue-in-cheek" . . . I have a
1940 Piper J4-A that I have to hand prop . . . if I get hurt . . . who do I
sue . . . how long is long enough . . . there are financial and personal
risks when you mess with airplanes . . . It does seem to me the we pay a lot
for FAA Certification for less benefit than the cost . . . but there are few
guarantees that cover you after you get down the road a ways!
I'm lucky . . . my ECi cylinders (on my RV-8) are the more recent "Titan"
version and are unaffected by the AD . . . but who knows what tomorrow may
bring??
Thanks again,
Bob
On 1/27/06, hemico wrote:
>
>
> Here is an interesting article on Aviation Product Liability.
>
> http://www.avweb.com/news/avlaw/181885-1.html
>
> Bob C...There is a small section in the article that speaks to FAA
> certification.
>
> Regards,
> Skippy
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D7309#7309
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight Systems AF2500 Engine Monitor - Fuel Flow |
Sensor
I have an afp fuel pump in my 6 and think you would not even know if your
sending unit was mounted in front of it. You cant really get your foot in
there anyway.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 3:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: Advanced Flight Systems AF2500 Engine Monitor - Fuel Flow
Sensor
>
>
> I just got my fuel flow sensor for my AF2500 Engine Monitor and
> I'm wondering on the best place/way to mount it.
>
> (The sensor is an Electronics International Inc (Bend, Orgeon)
> Model FT-60.)
>
> I'm building a 9 (same fuse more-or-less as the 7). I'm
> putting in an IO-320 from Aerosport. Plans have you run the
> fuel feed line from the AFP high pressure pump below the tank
> selector valve to the firewall between the center floor
> stiffeners.
>
> There's not a whole lot of room in there and the latest style
> sensor is rectangular block of red anodized aluminum measuring
> some 1.25 x 1.25 x 2". I believe the preferred method is to
> mount it with the wires exiting the top - which means the
> mounting bolts would be vertical.
>
> Anyone out there have experience with this sensor ? Did you
> locate it in the cabin floor tunnel forward of the pump ? Did
> you bolt it to the floor, or glue it ?
>
> __g__
>
> =========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
I have not been able to find Mo-gas on trips, I just settle for 100LL Lean her
out and try to burn off the lead before you park it, Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Service variations - Intercom |
Over the period of nearly two years I have generally been very impressed
with the high level of service from Vans and other American suppliers.
Best of all was Hooker, who when told that I was in a rush to get my RV8
flying for its test programme, initially quoted me 10 days to make my
harness selection. However, they pulled out all the stops and made and
despatched my choice of harnesses so that they arrived here in England just
three days after the order was placed. Absolutely fantastic.
At the other end of the scale, Aircraft Spruce.
I recently ordered a new Sigtronics 200S intercom and face plate from ACS
and asked for special delivery. I was told that the goods would be
despatched by the end of the week in question. A week after that I was
concerned that the intercom had been mislaid in transit so I rang to get a
tracking number. After five international calls and several emails I was
told that the goods would take up to another few weeks as Spruce would have
to place a minimum order of 3,000 dollars with Sigtronics. They didn't have
the courtesy to let me know the situation and left me completely in the
lurch - the worst service in the last two years of building my RV.
I don't think that I can place the order directly with Sigtronics - so I am
at a loss as I urgently need a suitable 2 place intercom with a face plate
that will fit a 21/4" hole in my existing panel - any suggestions please ?
Thanks, Nic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
> I have not been able to find Mo-gas on trips, I just settle for 100LL
> Lean her out and try to burn off the lead before you park it, Charlie
> Heathco
If you normally run mogas but you have to run 100LL when
mogas is not available, you could put a little "lead scavenger"
in with the 100LL. Here's a good one:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/Decalin.php
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mauri Morin" <maurv8(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Service variations - Intercom |
Nic
Check out Chief Aircraft and the P S Enigineering PMA4000. I've always had
good service from Chief here in the US
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/
Mauri
RV-8 fuse
---- Original Message -----
From: "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 10:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Service variations - Intercom
>
> Over the period of nearly two years I have generally been very impressed
> with the high level of service from Vans and other American suppliers.
>
> Best of all was Hooker, who when told that I was in a rush to get my RV8
> flying for its test programme, initially quoted me 10 days to make my
> harness selection. However, they pulled out all the stops and made and
> despatched my choice of harnesses so that they arrived here in England
> just
> three days after the order was placed. Absolutely fantastic.
>
> At the other end of the scale, Aircraft Spruce.
>
> I recently ordered a new Sigtronics 200S intercom and face plate from ACS
> and asked for special delivery. I was told that the goods would be
> despatched by the end of the week in question. A week after that I was
> concerned that the intercom had been mislaid in transit so I rang to get a
> tracking number. After five international calls and several emails I was
> told that the goods would take up to another few weeks as Spruce would
> have
> to place a minimum order of 3,000 dollars with Sigtronics. They didn't
> have
> the courtesy to let me know the situation and left me completely in the
> lurch - the worst service in the last two years of building my RV.
>
> I don't think that I can place the order directly with Sigtronics - so I
> am
> at a loss as I urgently need a suitable 2 place intercom with a face plate
> that will fit a 21/4" hole in my existing panel - any suggestions please ?
>
> Thanks, Nic
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Service variations - Intercom |
Nic wrote:
>At the other end of the scale, Aircraft Spruce.
>
>I recently ordered a new Sigtronics 200S intercom and face plate from ACS
>and asked for special delivery. I was told that the goods would be
>despatched by the end of the week in question. A week after that I was
>concerned that the intercom had been mislaid in transit so I rang to get a
>tracking number. After five international calls and several emails I was
>told that the goods would take up to another few weeks as Spruce would have
>to place a minimum order of 3,000 dollars with Sigtronics. They didn't have
>the courtesy to let me know the situation and left me completely in the
>lurch - the worst service in the last two years of building my RV.
>
>I don't think that I can place the order directly with Sigtronics - so I am
>at a loss as I urgently need a suitable 2 place intercom with a face plate
>that will fit a 21/4" hole in my existing panel - any suggestions please ?
>
>Thanks, Nic
>
>
>
Typical service from ACS "IMO" in my dealings with them.
do not archve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chaztuna(at)adelphia.net |
| Subject: | Re: Service variations - Intercom |
Cc: Nic
Nic,
Check out Flightcom's 403d unit. Both of these units are stereo intercoms. See
http://www.flightcom.net/pdf/English/prodsheet_403d%20Stereo%20Panel%20Mount.pdf
http://www.flightcom.net/intercoms/403d-intercom.php
or the less expensive 403
http://www.flightcom.net/intercoms/403-intercom.php
http://www.flightcom.net/pdf/English/prodsheet_403%20Panel%20Mount.pdf
There are many excellent vendors for these units here in the States. Two good ones
on the East Coast I've had good luck with are:
http://www.gulf-coast-avionics.com/detail.asp?id=4540
http://www.tropicaero.com/intercoms.asp
Both the above vendors stock a complete line of both Sigtronics and Flightcom.
Both stand behind their products. When I purchased my 403d, I got a great deal
from
http://www.affordablepanels.com/
Good luck
Charlie Kuss
---- Nic wrote:
>
> Over the period of nearly two years I have generally been very impressed
> with the high level of service from Vans and other American suppliers.
>
> Best of all was Hooker, who when told that I was in a rush to get my RV8
> flying for its test programme, initially quoted me 10 days to make my
> harness selection. However, they pulled out all the stops and made and
> despatched my choice of harnesses so that they arrived here in England just
> three days after the order was placed. Absolutely fantastic.
>
> At the other end of the scale, Aircraft Spruce.
>
> I recently ordered a new Sigtronics 200S intercom and face plate from ACS
> and asked for special delivery. I was told that the goods would be
> despatched by the end of the week in question. A week after that I was
> concerned that the intercom had been mislaid in transit so I rang to get a
> tracking number. After five international calls and several emails I was
> told that the goods would take up to another few weeks as Spruce would have
> to place a minimum order of 3,000 dollars with Sigtronics. They didn't have
> the courtesy to let me know the situation and left me completely in the
> lurch - the worst service in the last two years of building my RV.
>
> I don't think that I can place the order directly with Sigtronics - so I am
> at a loss as I urgently need a suitable 2 place intercom with a face plate
> that will fit a 21/4" hole in my existing panel - any suggestions please ?
>
> Thanks, Nic
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Drilled the wrong hole in my hs help |
| From: | David Karlsberg <claypride(at)hotmail.com> |
Somehow when I read "Drill all rib attach holes to #30" I drilled the holes
on top of the flange of HS-702 (that connect HS-708) too. My skin
(HS-601PP) is drilled to #40. The plan says use a "AN26AD3-4 to HS-601PP to
HS-702 to HS708" This can't be right! Any suggestions on how I can fix
this dilemma?
Thanks in advance.
David Karlsberg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Drilled the wrong hole in my hs help |
If I under stand your problem correctly, you can use "oops" rivets (AD4 size shank
and AD3 size head). Lots of sources, including Avery and I think Van's has
them in the catalog now.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 170 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: David Karlsberg <claypride(at)hotmail.com>
>
> Somehow when I read "Drill all rib attach holes to #30" I drilled the holes
> on top of the flange of HS-702 (that connect HS-708) too. My skin
> (HS-601PP) is drilled to #40. The plan says use a "AN26AD3-4 to HS-601PP to
> HS-702 to HS708" This can't be right! Any suggestions on how I can fix
> this dilemma?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> David Karlsberg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Service variations - Intercom |
> Typical service from ACS "IMO" in my dealings with them.
>
Lest you forget, ACS monitors this list for folks who talk down ACS. I've
gotten notes from Mr. Jim, himself, trying to win my business back. They
don't want this kind of negative advertising; but, they don't seem to change
enough to prevent it. I quit buying from ACS, some time ago, because of the
poor service. Being the biggest does not mean the bestest. Now, I use
Wicks for most of my hardware and other suppliers for other things.
Amazingly, I've not found anything I need that I can't find somewhere else.
Well, I do like their catalog.
Jim Sears in KY
do not archve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilled the wrong hole in my hs help |
----- Original Message -----
From: David Karlsberg
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Drilled the wrong hole in my hs help
I'm not familiar with these exact parts, but assuming it's just a flange, and edge
distances are okay,
they make the "cheater" rivets which fit in the #30 hole but have the smaller head
size of the AN26AD3
rivets. You can buy a small kit, that contains various cheater rivet sizes. There
is a structural limitation to these
rivets due to the smaller head, so it's something to keep in mind, as I don't know
how many holes you need to fix.
Somehow when I read "Drill all rib attach holes to #30" I drilled the holes
on top of the flange of HS-702 (that connect HS-708) too. My skin
(HS-601PP) is drilled to #40. The plan says use a "AN26AD3-4 to HS-601PP to
HS-702 to HS708" This can't be right! Any suggestions on how I can fix
this dilemma?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Michael Kosta ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Michael Kosta
Lists: RV-List,RV4-List,RV8-List
Subject: RV-4 panel and radio console
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/mikel@dimensional.com.01.28.2006/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter11(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Cc: "RV-list"
Someone else asked about scratching the canopy:
. . . If visor is down in front of you, then a piece of soft leather or
similar on top of helmet protects canopy.
. . . If visor is up, then it will contact canopy - so, one might want to
put a bit (1 foot square or diameter) of "cling plastic" on canopy above
where your head will be. Lots of folks already have sun barriers above
them, which would protect the plexi.
Brian, my helmet simply has a snap on each side for attaching the elastic
strap on the visor. I can unsnap the clear and snap on the colored visor
when needed. I use the clear most of the time, for bird protection, with
sunglasses underneath when needed, so don't really need the tinted visor.
In combat in 1967 up "north" in Package 6, one day I told myself the visor
was bulletproof - I no longer suffered anxiety rolling in on a heavily
defended tgt. Prior to that I worried a bit about a 37 or 57mm in the face.
Piece of cake after I put on my bullet proof visor. Now the biggest threat
is buzzards, snow geese, and other large "mm" birds. Visor is real
protection in event of a birdstrike, not just make believe.
I just had 3M tinted window film (thin sheet of plastic) on my windows on
the Gulf Coast last summer - makes the windows rather "hurricane proof".
The website tells of a company putting these films on windows of a mobile
home "office" at some petro-chemical plant construction site - 3 days or so
later, there was a big explosion - trailer was blown over on its side but
windows were intact.
. . . I'm going to consider experimenting with that stuff on the front part
of my RV-6 tip-up canopy for bird resistance.
Hey, we are on the "Lectric list" - Sorry for being "off topic". Will Cc:
the RV list.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Lloyd" <brian-yak(at)lloyd.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: helmet (was: Why use starter contactor
(fire))
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd
>
>
> Mickey Coggins wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
>>
>>
>> Brian Lloyd wrote:
>>> 8. you can paint stuff on it to look really cool or really stupid
>>> depending on who's looking.
>>
>> Now you're talkin'! :-) It sounds like you've got a nice
>> helmet. Which brand/model do you use? I've seen a lot of
>> nice ones on the web, but I never wanted to buy one without
>> trying it on. I really can't recall any helmets on sale
>> at the last few SNFs or OSH, but perhaps I overlooked them.
>
> I bought mine at Flight Suits, Ltd. (http://www.flightsuits.com/) They
> usually have a booth at OSH. I don't know about SnF.
>
> I have an HGU-33 with a single visor. (I wish I had the dual visor.)
>
> The trick is to get Flight Suits to provide the helmet, earspeakers, and
> mic wiring. Get the helmet fit-kit from Oregon Aero. Their approach to
> the liner and earspeakers is quieter and more comfortable. I can wear my
> helmet literally all day long and never feel uncomfortable.
>
> Get the super-duper noise-canceling mic from Sigtronics.
>
>
> --
> Brian Lloyd 2243 Cattle Dr.
> brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
> +1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fly n Low" <flynlow(at)usaviator.net> |
My helmet is made out of soft leather. I don't get it.
Bud Silvers
RV - 8 finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Carter
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 3:24 PM
Cc: RV-list
Subject: RV-List: helmet issues
Someone else asked about scratching the canopy:
. . . If visor is down in front of you, then a piece of soft leather or
similar on top of helmet protects canopy.
. . . If visor is up, then it will contact canopy - so, one might want to
put a bit (1 foot square or diameter) of "cling plastic" on canopy above
where your head will be. Lots of folks already have sun barriers above
them, which would protect the plexi.
Brian, my helmet simply has a snap on each side for attaching the elastic
strap on the visor. I can unsnap the clear and snap on the colored visor
when needed. I use the clear most of the time, for bird protection, with
sunglasses underneath when needed, so don't really need the tinted visor.
In combat in 1967 up "north" in Package 6, one day I told myself the visor
was bulletproof - I no longer suffered anxiety rolling in on a heavily
defended tgt. Prior to that I worried a bit about a 37 or 57mm in the face.
Piece of cake after I put on my bullet proof visor. Now the biggest threat
is buzzards, snow geese, and other large "mm" birds. Visor is real
protection in event of a birdstrike, not just make believe.
I just had 3M tinted window film (thin sheet of plastic) on my windows on
the Gulf Coast last summer - makes the windows rather "hurricane proof".
The website tells of a company putting these films on windows of a mobile
home "office" at some petro-chemical plant construction site - 3 days or so
later, there was a big explosion - trailer was blown over on its side but
windows were intact.
. . . I'm going to consider experimenting with that stuff on the front part
of my RV-6 tip-up canopy for bird resistance.
Hey, we are on the "Lectric list" - Sorry for being "off topic". Will Cc:
the RV list.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Lloyd" <brian-yak(at)lloyd.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: helmet (was: Why use starter contactor
(fire))
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Lloyd
>
>
> Mickey Coggins wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
>>
>>
>> Brian Lloyd wrote:
>>> 8. you can paint stuff on it to look really cool or really stupid
>>> depending on who's looking.
>>
>> Now you're talkin'! :-) It sounds like you've got a nice
>> helmet. Which brand/model do you use? I've seen a lot of
>> nice ones on the web, but I never wanted to buy one without
>> trying it on. I really can't recall any helmets on sale
>> at the last few SNFs or OSH, but perhaps I overlooked them.
>
> I bought mine at Flight Suits, Ltd. (http://www.flightsuits.com/) They
> usually have a booth at OSH. I don't know about SnF.
>
> I have an HGU-33 with a single visor. (I wish I had the dual visor.)
>
> The trick is to get Flight Suits to provide the helmet, earspeakers, and
> mic wiring. Get the helmet fit-kit from Oregon Aero. Their approach to
> the liner and earspeakers is quieter and more comfortable. I can wear my
> helmet literally all day long and never feel uncomfortable.
>
> Get the super-duper noise-canceling mic from Sigtronics.
>
>
> --
> Brian Lloyd 2243 Cattle Dr.
> brian-yak at lloyd dot com Folsom, CA 95630
> +1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilled the wrong hole in my hs help |
David Karlsberg wrote:
>
>Somehow when I read "Drill all rib attach holes to #30" I drilled the holes
>on top of the flange of HS-702 (that connect HS-708) too. My skin
>(HS-601PP) is drilled to #40. The plan says use a "AN26AD3-4 to HS-601PP to
>HS-702 to HS708" This can't be right! Any suggestions on how I can fix
>this dilemma?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>
>David Karlsberg
>
Aren't the HS-702 flanges dimpled? (I hate the numbers on the
instructions with no name; I've got really short memory with part #'s.)
Assuming adequate edge distance & dimples on everything, the simplest
thing to do is drill the skin #30, dimple, & use an426ad4-4 rivets. Buck
carefully on the thin skin, but it should work fine; some of the older
designs use ad4's for skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> |
| Subject: | 1st rivet's confussion |
Just wanted to check, I ready to rivet the HS spar to the stiffners and brackets,
do the Rivets go from foward to aft, spar to stiffner, thin to thick , shop head
on the (thicker) stiffner, (aft)
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1st rivet's confussion |
Yuo are correct. The general rule for riveting is that the shop head
goes on the thicker material, unless the plans indicate otherwise.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 1st rivet's confussion |
Hi Dan,
Riveting the shop head on the (thicker) stiffer structure is the preferred
way to go. Putting the shop head on the thicker material avoids or reduces
local area distortion that might occur on the thinner material, You might
occasionally find it won't work out that way due to assembly stages or
access with the rivet gun or bucking bar.
The forward, aft, top and bottom orientation consideration is used more in
reference to nuts and bolts etc. Supposedly if the nut or lock pin, clip
etc, falls away, the bolt will remain in place a while attempting to do it's
job. {[;-?
Are ya Havin fun yet?
Jim in Kelowna - Putting the wings on the 6a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan" <dan(at)rdan.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 6:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: 1st rivet's confussion
>
> Just wanted to check, I ready to rivet the HS spar to the stiffners and
> brackets,
> do the Rivets go from foward to aft, spar to stiffner, thin to thick ,
> shop head on the (thicker) stiffner, (aft)
> Thanks
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Service variations - Intercom |
Yes I agree that Hooker is great. However I can see the problem ACS has,
if it is not in stock then they have to order it, not good for us. On the
other hand I have ordered stuff from Van's and had to wait over six months
to get it (aerobatic motor mounts).
Sunday night I ordered some parts from ACS and I received them Wedensday
USPS. I don't know how they could get much quicker, unless I paid the
overnight freight. Last order from Van's was 10 days, which is
significantly faster than the 17 days when I was building.
I ordered my intercom from Stark Avionics, and had him make the wiring
harness for my radios. Of course custom building a wiring harness takes
some time. I wired the rest of my aircraft, but I am sure glad I had the
intercom harness built by someone else.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
At 11:43 AM 1/28/06, you wrote:
>
>Over the period of nearly two years I have generally been very impressed
>with the high level of service from Vans and other American suppliers.
>
>Best of all was Hooker, who when told that I was in a rush to get my RV8
>flying for its test programme, initially quoted me 10 days to make my
>harness selection. However, they pulled out all the stops and made and
>despatched my choice of harnesses so that they arrived here in England just
>three days after the order was placed. Absolutely fantastic.
>
>At the other end of the scale, Aircraft Spruce.
>
>I recently ordered a new Sigtronics 200S intercom and face plate from ACS
>and asked for special delivery. I was told that the goods would be
>despatched by the end of the week in question. A week after that I was
>concerned that the intercom had been mislaid in transit so I rang to get a
>tracking number. After five international calls and several emails I was
>told that the goods would take up to another few weeks as Spruce would have
>to place a minimum order of 3,000 dollars with Sigtronics. They didn't have
>the courtesy to let me know the situation and left me completely in the
>lurch - the worst service in the last two years of building my RV.
>
>I don't think that I can place the order directly with Sigtronics - so I am
>at a loss as I urgently need a suitable 2 place intercom with a face plate
>that will fit a 21/4" hole in my existing panel - any suggestions please ?
>
>Thanks, Nic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilled the wrong hole in my hs help |
David,
Just rivet it up with 4-4s. Work carefully and you will be fine. I have
a second hand RV-7 empanage kit and the whole Vertical stab was drilled
with #30. I took my time and only had to drill out a couple.
MG
David Karlsberg wrote:
>
> Somehow when I read "Drill all rib attach holes to #30" I drilled the holes
> on top of the flange of HS-702 (that connect HS-708) too. My skin
> (HS-601PP) is drilled to #40. The plan says use a "AN26AD3-4 to HS-601PP to
> HS-702 to HS708" This can't be right! Any suggestions on how I can fix
> this dilemma?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> David Karlsberg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | SL-30 side tone problem |
Anybody have any ideas about what's going on? My avionics have worked like a charm
until about two flight hours ago. The side tone on my SL-30 went from normal,
to incredibly loud. It still transmits and receives well, but the side tone
is so loud, it's uncomfortable. It's installed as the second Nav/Com, number
one is a 300XL, it works great.
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S
St. Charles, MO
18.8 Hrs (still grinnin')
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dennis(at)drrv7.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilled the wrong hole in my hs help |
A new builder myself, I have found it very useful to read through the steps several
times before committing a drill to anything. Analyzing the drawings over
and over as well. As a rule of thumb, skin attachments are USUALLY drilled to
#40 (unless otherwise specified). If you are not 100% sure about something, re-read
the step while looking closely at the plans over and over until you convince
yourself that you ARE 100% sure what you are about to do is correct. If you
still are not sure, ask for help BEFORE drilling. It will save you time and
$ later on down the line.
Dennis Roberts RV7 N35DR (reserved) Emp nearly complete / awaiting wing shipment
Dennis(at)DRRV7.com
http://www.DRRV7.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: 1st rivet's confussion |
On 18:55:04 2006-01-28 Jeff Point wrote:
> Yuo are correct. The general rule for riveting is that the shop head
> goes on the thicker material, unless the plans indicate otherwise.
In this location, however, many people (myself included) opted to put the
factory head on the stiffener side, since it's the side that will be
visible (sort of) when the airplane is complete. The reason for putting
the factory head on the thinner side is that when you form the shop head,
you're more likely to stretch/deform the thinner material. In this case,
it seems the thinner material doesn't stretch significantly when setting
the rivet on that side. So the joint is equally strong either way.
The builder's manual for my -7 says that while the norm is to put the
factory head on the thinner material side, there have been no problems with
putting the factory head on the thicker material side in this location.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
There are already lots of opinions and answers for the questions you bring
up in your post below. I suggest you check the archives and get the best
thought of hundreds who have gone before you. If after doing that you still
have questions, I am sure you will get lots of answers if any questions
still remain. http://www.matronics.com/search/
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
>
> There are several blank articles on the RV Wiki frequently-asked-questions
> page
> that are crying out to have something added. If you have any knowledge or
> interest in any of these areas, please feel free to start an article.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
My read is that he wants concise writeups on those subjects for all to
use, not advice on random subjects for himself. The wiki will be much
more useful than this list for 'how-to' questions, because a searcher
won't have to wade through literally 10's of thousands of messages to
find an answer. Even using the search engine on the list, you still must
read through dozens or even hundreds of 'me too', 'I agree', posts
written about totally different subjects but with the wrong subject
line, etc to get an answer.
Wiki's are great tools once they are populated with data. Go prowl
around Wikipedia & pick just about any subject of interest to see how
useful they can be.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page
For instance, here's the entry for Van's Aircraft:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Van%27s_Aircraft
See something that's incorrect? Register, then log in & correct it.
Charlie
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
>There are already lots of opinions and answers for the questions you bring
>up in your post below. I suggest you check the archives and get the best
>thought of hundreds who have gone before you. If after doing that you still
>have questions, I am sure you will get lots of answers if any questions
>still remain. http://www.matronics.com/search/
>
>Indiana Larry
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
>
>>
>>There are several blank articles on the RV Wiki frequently-asked-questions
>>page
>>that are crying out to have something added. If you have any knowledge or
>>interest in any of these areas, please feel free to start an article.
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Six New Email Lists / Forums At Matronics! |
Dear Listers,
Its my pleasure to announce the addition of six new Email List / Forums to the
aviation line up at Matronics! These new lists support all the usual features
you've come to know and love from the Matronics Email List including full integration
with the All New Web BBS Forums Site!! The new Lists include:
LycomingEngines-List Textron/Lycoming Engines
RotaxEngines-List Rotax Engine for Aircraft
M14PEngines-List Vendenyev M14P Radial Engine
MurphyMoose-List Murphy Moose Aircraft
Allegro-List Allegro 2000, a Czech-built, Rotax-powered Aircraft
Falco-List Sequoia Aircraft's Falco Experimental
To sign up for any or all of the new Lists, surf over to the Matronics Email List
Subscription Form and follow the instructions:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Don't forget to check out the All New Web BBS Forum now available along with all
of the usual message and archive viewing tools at the Matronics Email Lists
site. Surf over to the following URL for information on the BBS Forum:
http://forums.matronics.com
Enjoy the new Lists!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SL-30 side tone problem |
Are both radios on the same freq? Sometimes this will cause all kinds of
wacky results.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 8:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: SL-30 side tone problem
>
> Anybody have any ideas about what's going on? My avionics have worked like
> a charm until about two flight hours ago. The side tone on my SL-30 went
> from normal, to incredibly loud. It still transmits and receives well, but
> the side tone is so loud, it's uncomfortable. It's installed as the second
> Nav/Com, number one is a 300XL, it works great.
>
> Steve Struyk
> RV-8, N842S
> St. Charles, MO
> 18.8 Hrs (still grinnin')
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Service variations |
Bob - I don't have an issue with items that are on backorder, I do however
think that suppliers have a duty to stick to their promises. In this case
ACS promised fast track delivery on the items I ordered, and only when they
didn't arrive ten days later and I chased them did they finally admit that
the goods would not be despatched for weeks to come.
Had I known this from the outset it would have saved me numerous overseas
calls and I would have ordered from an outlet that had the goods ready to
ship.
Many thanks for all the help to source an alternative intercom, Now I just
need to know which is the best two place 2 1/4" intercom with music input
that is available off the shelf at any reasonable price.
Rgds, Nic
> Sunday night I ordered some parts from ACS and I received them Wedensday
> USPS. I don't know how they could get much quicker, unless I paid the
> overnight freight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Service variations - Intercom |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Service variations - Intercom
Hi Nic-
I agree that ACS has the greatest catalog and also agree with all the
negatives that have been offered up. To add one, I had occasion to require
a special order part. I was unable to determine from the catalog if Spruce
could help, so I called for guidance. The ACS employee on the other end
assured me that they could have it special made. When the part arrived, it
was the wrong thing. When I called again, the agent I got was rather short
and condescending about my having ordered the wrong item.
On the other hand, Wicks has sent me the wrong item twice, but they are
always pleasant to deal with. Also, since I only live one state away, an
order placed in the morning will generally arrive the following afternoon
with their regular shipping rates. Not much to complain about there.
WRT the intercom issue, I believe that PS Engineering's PMA 4000 can be had
with a face plate for a std instrument hole.
>
>At the other end of the scale, Aircraft Spruce... ...I am
>at a loss as I urgently need a suitable 2 place intercom with a face plate
>that will fit a 21/4" hole in my existing panel - any suggestions please ?
>
>Thanks, Nic
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
| Subject: | Yahoo RV Lists are going bye-bye |
So long to a good friend. The Yahoo RV lists are going to be decommisioned
on February 15, 2006. I have long been a member, looking forward to reading
about the trials, tribulations and joys of the RV world. These messages from
on high (altitude that is) brought joy and meaning to my life in a time when
work was not much fun. They, and the Matronics list are the reason that I'm
building my very own RV today.
I find it sad that personal gain is the motive for their demise.
Smitty's RV-9A
http://SmittysRV.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Service variations |
Nic,
I would suggest that in future, when dealing with ACS, you do your
ordering off of their web site. Their site will show you whether the item
in question is in stock (and at which of their two warehouses) or on back
order. I've also found that often the web site price is slightly lower (5%)
than the listed paper catalog price. I really like using the web site to
order from them.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Bob - I don't have an issue with items that are on backorder, I do however
>think that suppliers have a duty to stick to their promises. In this case
>ACS promised fast track delivery on the items I ordered, and only when they
>didn't arrive ten days later and I chased them did they finally admit that
>the goods would not be despatched for weeks to come.
>
>Had I known this from the outset it would have saved me numerous overseas
>calls and I would have ordered from an outlet that had the goods ready to
>ship.
>
>Many thanks for all the help to source an alternative intercom, Now I just
>need to know which is the best two place 2 1/4" intercom with music input
>that is available off the shelf at any reasonable price.
>
>Rgds, Nic
>
> > Sunday night I ordered some parts from ACS and I received them Wedensday
> > USPS. I don't know how they could get much quicker, unless I paid the
> > overnight freight.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Yahoo RV Lists are going bye-bye |
Why ?
Bill S
7a
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Smitty
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 6:36 AM
Subject: RV-List: Yahoo RV Lists are going bye-bye
So long to a good friend. The Yahoo RV lists are going to be decommisioned
on February 15, 2006. I have long been a member, looking forward to reading
about the trials, tribulations and joys of the RV world. These messages from
on high (altitude that is) brought joy and meaning to my life in a time when
work was not much fun. They, and the Matronics list are the reason that I'm
building my very own RV today.
I find it sad that personal gain is the motive for their demise.
Smitty's RV-9A
http://SmittysRV.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Yahoo RV Lists are going bye-bye |
| From: | "smittysrv" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
Hi Linn,
I prefer the Yahoo email groups because of the fast and direct response I get to
my office email box. I get to read everybodys submissions as they happen. I
don't want to have to go a website to search read for submissions. The Yahoo email
messages "come to you". I have learned a lot from reading submissions that
sometimes don't necessarly apply to me in my current construction phase.
For those of us who don't have DSL, the amount of time it takes to pull in all
of advertisement images on the forum website takes forever. I have given up a
long time ago trying to find anything on the forum website for this reason.
I recently posted an email message to the Yahoo RV email and got over 15 responses,
as compare the "1" I got from the forum website. When I post an email to
the Yahoo RV email group, it goes directly to the other builders email boxes,
a few minutes after it is posted.
It is clear to me that I am being forced to go a forum website that is jammed full
of advertisements.
Smitty
--------
Smittys RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8101#8101
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Yahoo RV Lists are going bye-bye |
| From: | "smittysrv" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
I'm not talking about the Matronics email list. My concern is about the loss of
the Yahoo email list and being incouraged to go the Van's Air Force Forum website.
Smitty
--------
Smittys RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8116#8116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV9 <rv9(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Yahoo RV Lists are going bye-bye |
More than a year ago when Doug Reeves threatened to shut down the Yahoo lists I
initiated four RV related Yahoo lists of my own to take their place if and when
he really shut down the originals. I, like many others, prefer an Email list that's
moderated. The sorry thing is that the archives will die when Doug pulls the
plug. A number of people found these lists on their own and subscribed but there
hasn't been a lot of activity because of the small subscriber base.
If you would like to move over to the new Yahoo lists, here are the Email
addresses to subscribe :
RV-7-subscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
RV-10-subscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
RV-9-subscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
vans-airforce-subscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
We can also create additional YAHOO groups if desired.
--
Best regards,
Steve Mottin
Granbury, Texas
mailto:rv9(at)charter.net
P.S. I also subscribe to and like the Matronics lists, but sometimes their
unmoderated nature can lead to some really off-topic posts.
Monday, January 30, 2006, 7:55:00 AM, you wrote:
s> Hi Linn,
s> I prefer the Yahoo email groups because of the fast and direct response I get
to my office email box. I get to read everybodys submissions as they happen.
I don't want to have to go a website to
s> search read for submissions. The Yahoo email messages "come to you". I have
learned a lot from reading submissions that sometimes don't necessarly apply to
me in my current construction phase.
s> For those of us who don't have DSL, the amount of time it takes to pull in all
of advertisement images on the forum website takes forever. I have given up
a long time ago trying to find anything
s> on the forum website for this reason.
s> I recently posted an email message to the Yahoo RV email and got over 15 responses,
as compare the "1" I got from the forum website. When I post an email
to the Yahoo RV email group, it goes
s> directly to the other builders email boxes, a few minutes after it is posted.
s> It is clear to me that I am being forced to go a forum website that is jammed
full of advertisements.
s> Smitty
s> --------
s> Smittys RV-9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tailgummer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 1st rivet's confussion |
One thing to keep in mind is that if you ever needed to drill out and
replace a rivet, it is way easier and more accurate (less likely to enlarge or
mess
up a hole) if you have access to the manufactured head.
John D'Onofrio RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com> |
Many thanks to all who provided feedback in helping me identify my engine
problem. I finally had time of the past weekend to try some of the many
suggestions. And as most of you who responded guessed, it was an induction
leak.
I connected the discharge side of a shop vac to the bottom of the carb
intake, duct taped it up the best I could and turn the vac on. Then began
spraying soapy water around the induction components.
I immediately began to see bubbles forming at the right rear induction tube
near the engine. Turns out that the steel tube that inserts into the
aluminum cast oil pan was loose and leaking.
Again, many thanks to everyone who helped point me to the problem.
Jimmy Ayres
RV6A - flying
RV7A - building
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Yahoo RV Lists are going bye-bye |
| From: | "smittysrv" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
Clearly the loss of the Yahoo RV Email Groups will be a great shot in the arm for
the Matronics Email List. I can see that Matronics system will become (if not
already) the number one source of immediate info for RV builders. The Vans
Air Force website is still a great place to go for the latest stories and pictures,
but their forum will never surpass Matronics.
--------
Smittys RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8133#8133
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Yahoo RV Lists are going bye-bye |
| From: | "smittysrv" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
Good point Michael! I hadn't thought of that. The loss of the Yahoo RV email archives
will indeed be bad. I gone there many times when in dire need of information
about certain building processes. Putting builders in a bind, in the name
of advertising revenues.
--------
Smittys RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8142#8142
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Glass as it comes or all at once at the end? |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
I am close to finishing up my HS and will be doing so this week. I have
got to wondering about whether I should do the tips when it's done or
just wait and do all of them at the end.
I lean towards the latter because I'm afraid of fiberglass, and,
seriously, it seems to make more sense to do it all at once (though I
guess that is going to mean several weeks of hell all at once).
Are there any good reasons I should do the tail tips earlier?
Paul
9A QB #1176
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Glass as it comes or all at once at the end? |
In a message dated 1/30/06 9:29:35 AM Central Standard Time,
PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com writes:
> Are there any good reasons I should do the tail tips earlier?
>>>
Hi Paul-
I waited til the end and glad I did. It gave me a lot more time to look at
other planes and decide how I wanted to attach them- actually changed my mind a
couple of times before committing to final arrangement. Doing all at same
time probably will save some time, and your materials/skills will be fresher.
You WILL have to deal with that cowling & the gear legs eventually!
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glass as it comes or all at once at the end? |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
It's really personal choice. No technical or building issues either
way. I got my tail F/G started while waiting for my wings to arrive.
Did the same with the wing tips, waiting for the fuselage. None of it
is done because the new stuff arrived, but at least some of the work is
done.
Dennis Glaeser
7A Fuselage
| Subject: | Low Time IO-360 A1A |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
One of our customers is replacing his low-time (300 hours since new)
IO-360-A1A with one of our IO-390s and asked me to send a message to let
the list know that his engine is for sale. I don't know any other
details about the engine He is located in France. His name is
Christophe Jacquard with Corsair Warbird, Ltd.. He can be reached by
fax at +33 03 80 35 69 19 for additional information if you are
interested.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Anglin" <n144hr(at)earthlink.net> |
I think you missed the point Larry. He is asking for people to make contributions
to the Wiki pages. I have used them, made contributions, and find them very
helpful. Go to the site and see what is being developed there. When many
people have contributed and this site is a wealth of information the archives
on Matronics sites will have cobwebs from lack of use. As far as I am concerned
the Wiki pages are the new wave of fingertip info. I avoid the list archives
like the plague because it takes forever to browse your way through a hundred
hits to find the right info. That is why there are so many redundant questions
on the list. Don't misunderstand me - the list is a great place (it would
be better without the usenet mentality I see here a lot) and I have been lurking
here since it first started and it has helped me a lot. I just think the
Wiki will be a good source of information without the encumbrances of email
articles that a person has no interest in.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
I hate to have to post this.
As the title says, I have a slight gap in two ribs - one on each side.
It is at least wide enough to get a piece of paper under. I have not
yet installed the rear spar so I could drill these out and re-rivet.
Something tells me that I really ought to. Is it something I would need
to worry about? Is it a strength issue?
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
On Mon Jan 30 13:18:56 2006, Mickey Coggins wrote :
>One question - who "owns" the site, the contributions,
>and what are the long term plans for it? You're not
>going to trick us all into fleshing out the site, and
>then you get to make millions on google ads? :-)
This is an excellent question, and as one of the "owners" I'll jump
in and give my answer. At the moment I, technically, "own" the RV
Wiki in as much as I pay for the hosting, have registered the domain
name, and try and keep the technical end of things working. Tedd is,
in my opinion, the other "owner" as he has taken on the awesome task
of being RV-Wiki content shepherd and prime evangelist.
Long term plans (and it is my belief that Tedd and I are completely
in sync on this) are to simply grow it as best we can. No Google ads.
No "premium access" games where you pay a fee for the "good stuff".
No tricks. The intent is to strive to create a value repository of
information ... one complimentary to all the existing forums and
mailing lists. It is *different*, and as such does not replace any
of them, but simply adds new value to the options builders have for
getting needed/useful information.
Because of this we actually have some concern about our ability to
support the site ... and may, eventually, have to solicit for some
donations. We aren't there yet, and hope to not be for some time to
come. Until there is enough value to make it *worth* people donating
then it really isn't an issue. :) Don't get me wrong, there is some
good stuff there already. I'm, personally, very impressed. But it is
clearly in the early stages and has a long way to go. So you may well
see a PayPal link show up on the RV Wiki one day, but it will be an
optional and voluntary donation link, not a sign-up-to-access sort of
link.
Finally, I believe that the REAL answer to your question is that
*every* *single* *contributor* "owns" the RV-Wiki. Yes this is a very
idealistic viewpoint. Yes, it asks that you trust to our good intentions.
I ask that you give us the benefit of the doubt, contribute, and give
us the opportunity to show that your trust is well placed.
-- Dwight
PS: I think I will let this one be archived, as I think the question is
very valid, and the answer important. I could be wrong, of course. :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Hee hee, one of the assumptions of a "Wiki" is that you can
reach a general consensus on a topic, that might prove
difficult :D
Its an admirable effort though - I had a conversation with
another builder on just this topic - sometimes its really hard
to search for answers to your question - what keywords would I
use.
I for one will make an effort to contribute - when I have time
off from my build :)
g
>
>
> My read is that he wants concise writeups on those subjects for all to
> use, not advice on random subjects for himself. The wiki will be much
> more useful than this list for 'how-to' questions, because a searcher
> won't have to wade through literally 10's of thousands of messages to
> find an answer. Even using the search engine on the list, you
> still must
> read through dozens or even hundreds of 'me too', 'I agree', posts
> written about totally different subjects but with the wrong subject
> line, etc to get an answer.
>
> Wiki's are great tools once they are populated with data. Go prowl
> around Wikipedia & pick just about any subject of interest to see how
> useful they can be.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page
>
> For instance, here's the entry for Van's Aircraft:
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Van%27s_Aircraft
>
> See something that's incorrect? Register, then log in & correct it.
>
> Charlie
>
> LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
> >
> >There are already lots of opinions and answers for the questions you bring
> >up in your post below. I suggest you check the archives and get the best
> >thought of hundreds who have gone before you. If after doing that you still
> >have questions, I am sure you will get lots of answers if any questions
> >still remain. http://www.matronics.com/search/
> >
> >Indiana Larry
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>There are several blank articles on the RV Wiki frequently-asked-questions
> >>page
> >>that are crying out to have something added. If you have any knowledge or
> >>interest in any of these areas, please feel free to start an article.
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AYRES, JIMMY L" <JAYRES(at)entergy.com> |
| Subject: | O320 to O360 conversion |
I have an RV6A with on O320 which I am currently flying. I am rebuilding an O360
which I plan to use in an RV7A that I am building. I have heard that the break-in
for a rebuilt engine is to run it full throttle for several hours initially.
Unfortunately, that is not the way I want to break in my newly built RV7A
on the first few flights.
A friend suggested putting the O360 on my currently flying RV6A to break it in
since it is already flying and I am familiar with it. Seems like a good idea
to me.
My question is:
Can this be done without modifying my existing cowl on the RV6A?
Does anyone out have any experience with changing over from an O320 to and O360?
Jimmy Ayres
RV6A - flying
RV7A - building
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O320 to O360 conversion |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Sounds like almost as much hassle as finding a test stand and breaking it in on
the ground. Ever consider this option?
Bryan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8234#8234
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
To clarify, this is the front-flange of the main rib to front-spar joint
on a 9A HS.
________________________________
From: Folbrecht, Paul
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 1:06 PM
Subject: Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint
I hate to have to post this.
As the title says, I have a slight gap in two ribs - one on each side.
It is at least wide enough to get a piece of paper under. I have not
yet installed the rear spar so I could drill these out and re-rivet.
Something tells me that I really ought to. Is it something I would need
to worry about? Is it a strength issue?
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | O320 to O360 conversion |
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
Jimmy,
The cowling I wouldn't think would need modification, but the engine
baffling would as the 0-360 is wider than the 0-320.
Engine break-in does not have to be done at full throttle, but rather at
high MP settings. 25-26 square is ideal as long as temps and pressures
are normal. It does require a (few hours) but not several hours at a
time. (unless your lucky)
Hope this helps,
Allen Barrett
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AYRES, JIMMY L
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: O320 to O360 conversion
I have an RV6A with on O320 which I am currently flying. I am
rebuilding an O360 which I plan to use in an RV7A that I am building. I
have heard that the break-in for a rebuilt engine is to run it full
throttle for several hours initially. Unfortunately, that is not the
way I want to break in my newly built RV7A on the first few flights.
A friend suggested putting the O360 on my currently flying RV6A to break
it in since it is already flying and I am familiar with it. Seems like
a good idea to me.
My question is:
Can this be done without modifying my existing cowl on the RV6A?
Does anyone out have any experience with changing over from an O320 to
and O360?
Jimmy Ayres
RV6A - flying
RV7A - building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O320 to O360 conversion |
I have never read that the eng should be run wide open to break in. However
they do want you to run at high power settings for the first few hours.
Ollie
----- Original Message -----
From: "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: O320 to O360 conversion
>
> Sounds like almost as much hassle as finding a test stand and breaking it
> in on the ground. Ever consider this option?
>
> Bryan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8234#8234
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint |
Paul,
Only a sheet of paper? On my 8a HS and VS, the rib lengths were off so
badly, that I couldn't maintain edge distance on the front spar flanges.
(My kit was not matched hole remember) I had to cut the front flanges off
the affected ribs and make "scab" flanges to get everything to line up
correctly. It wasn't the only place this was necessary on my kit. It sounds
like your mis-alignment is slight however. If interested, I can email you
photos of how to modify a rib using the scab flange method.
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>I hate to have to post this.
>
>
>As the title says, I have a slight gap in two ribs - one on each side.
>It is at least wide enough to get a piece of paper under. I have not
>yet installed the rear spar so I could drill these out and re-rivet.
>Something tells me that I really ought to. Is it something I would need
>to worry about? Is it a strength issue?
>
>
>Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "c.ennis" <c.ennis(at)insightbb.com> |
Jim,
I agree and I couldn't have said it better.
Flying an RV-6A in Kentucky
Charlie Ennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
Fiberglass gurus,
After trying to get the metal skirt to fit on my RV-3 I'm giving up -- I'm
convinced God just didn't intend aluminum to be used for compound curves,
fiberglass on the other hand is perfectly suited for that. No worries with
laying it up and such (West Systems and 9 oz crowfoot e-glass), but what I'd
appreciate some ideas on are how to craft a molding surface. I will pop
rivet my tipover plexi bubble to the frame in every other hole, which I will
later drill out, so there won't need to be an clecos and thus I can layup
onto the plexi. But what do I use to create a form from the plexi down to
the fuselage, or to bridge the gap along the sides? This is way too much
area for the traditional modeling clay we use for intersection fairings.
If I use any sort of tape it will create an uneven layup and require lots of
sanding and filling, something I'd rather avoid. I was thinking of using
expandable foam around the front and rear sections (won't work on the sides)
and then sculpting it. Seems like I heard that the cans of foam you can buy
at Home Depot aren't good because they contain formaldehyde, not sure why
that's bad though.
Spruce has Poly-Cell 100 Polyurethane Foam
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/polycel.php
and Liquid "X30" Foam
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/x30foam.php
Anyone had an experience with either of these? When using foam, do you lay
up directly on it, or coat it with something first?
And lastly, what would be a good way to create a surface on the sides?
Here's a pic of what I'm dealing with...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Gallery/DSC_0899.jpg
Thanks!
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC Simulators |
I'm looking to purchase a flight simulator program for my PC to refresh my
skills before spending big bucks on actual training. I have seen some
information on MSFS 2004, Flight Factory RV-7/7A, X-Plane, & Elite. Any
feedback on software and the best stick, throttle/prop/mixture, rudder
controls would be appreciated.
Scott Diffenbaugh
diff(at)foothill.net
RV-7A about ready to fly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the canopy and fuselage. My
cardboard of preference (from making the empennage fairing years ago) comes
from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...
Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing tape, and volia, female
mold...
Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote or similar shrink film,
cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi and fuselage, and shrink
the stuff into the shape you want. Might even work. (Note- put a layer of
packing tape between the monokote and your canopy, or risk color
transfer)...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 6:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch
>
> Fiberglass gurus,
>
> After trying to get the metal skirt to fit on my RV-3 I'm giving up -- I'm
> convinced God just didn't intend aluminum to be used for compound curves,
> fiberglass on the other hand is perfectly suited for that. No worries with
> laying it up and such (West Systems and 9 oz crowfoot e-glass), but what
> I'd
> appreciate some ideas on are how to craft a molding surface. I will pop
> rivet my tipover plexi bubble to the frame in every other hole, which I
> will
> later drill out, so there won't need to be an clecos and thus I can layup
> onto the plexi. But what do I use to create a form from the plexi down to
> the fuselage, or to bridge the gap along the sides? This is way too much
> area for the traditional modeling clay we use for intersection fairings.
>
> If I use any sort of tape it will create an uneven layup and require lots
> of
> sanding and filling, something I'd rather avoid. I was thinking of using
> expandable foam around the front and rear sections (won't work on the
> sides)
> and then sculpting it. Seems like I heard that the cans of foam you can
> buy
> at Home Depot aren't good because they contain formaldehyde, not sure why
> that's bad though.
> Spruce has Poly-Cell 100 Polyurethane Foam
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/polycel.php
> and Liquid "X30" Foam
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/x30foam.php
>
> Anyone had an experience with either of these? When using foam, do you lay
> up directly on it, or coat it with something first?
>
> And lastly, what would be a good way to create a surface on the sides?
> Here's a pic of what I'm dealing with...
> http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Gallery/DSC_0899.jpg
>
> Thanks!
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-3.com
> www.rv-8.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Burns" <burnsm(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Glass as it comes or all at once at the end? |
Paul,
I did my "tail tips" while I was waiting on the wing kit.
I'm glad I did. It's a bunch of work already done.
The "doing it all at once" idea sounds logical but I don't think it has any
real merit. It doesn't really take that long to get set up, and I didn't
think it was all that messy either. Jump in!
If you have more of the kit there to work on it really won't make any
difference. It's all got to get done.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Folbrecht, Paul
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:26 AM
Subject: RV-List: Glass as it comes or all at once at the end?
I am close to finishing up my HS and will be doing so this week. I have
got to wondering about whether I should do the tips when it's done or
just wait and do all of them at the end.
I lean towards the latter because I'm afraid of fiberglass, and,
seriously, it seems to make more sense to do it all at once (though I
guess that is going to mean several weeks of hell all at once).
Are there any good reasons I should do the tail tips earlier?
Paul
9A QB #1176
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
On Jan 30, 2006, at 5:21 PM, Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> Fiberglass gurus,
>
> (snip)
Umm not really a fiberglass guru, but I think I can help here.
> Spruce has Poly-Cell 100 Polyurethane Foam
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/polycel.php
> and Liquid "X30" Foam
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/x30foam.php
>
> Anyone had an experience with either of these? When using foam, do
> you lay
> up directly on it, or coat it with something first?
I recently helped someone do a _lot_ of fiberglass work on an RV-8,
and the X30 foam completely rocks. We mixed it in small cups ( like
you would have next to a drinking fountain) by filling each cup about
40%, and pouring back and forth until the foam started to kick off,
then pouring it onto the work surface. In 10 minutes it's ready to
file or sand, or even add more foam. It's not possible to make a
mistake you can't fix in 15 minutes. The foam is kind of porous, so
we covered it with strips of carefully laid duct tape as a release
after getting the surface we wanted.
This is the method I'm planning to use to redo my tail fairing, which
has "bumps" between the fasteners.
The local EZ guys seemed to approve of our method, although they did
seem somewhat amused by our slow pace...
James Freeman
>
> And lastly, what would be a good way to create a surface on the sides?
> Here's a pic of what I'm dealing with...
> http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Gallery/DSC_0899.jpg
>
> Thanks!
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-3.com
> www.rv-8.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
>
> Fiberglass gurus,
Well, that I'm not. Is it possible to simply drape a single, lightweight
strip across the gap? Let it cure and then build on that? One might have
to go along every so often and give it a nip or tuck as it cures, but it
might work. Pay attention to the bias of the weave, I'm not sure what would
be best in this case.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 712 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint |
If memory serves me the 2 inboard ribs are canted to the outside and require
the fabrication of .040 shims (HS-909) to fill the gap
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9 N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Folbrecht, Paul
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 2:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint
To clarify, this is the front-flange of the main rib to front-spar joint
on a 9A HS.
________________________________
From: Folbrecht, Paul
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 1:06 PM
Subject: Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint
I hate to have to post this.
As the title says, I have a slight gap in two ribs - one on each side.
It is at least wide enough to get a piece of paper under. I have not
yet installed the rear spar so I could drill these out and re-rivet.
Something tells me that I really ought to. Is it something I would need
to worry about? Is it a strength issue?
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
Some builder made a form out of his wife's panty hose and stretched the
material over the gear leg to create fairings. A release agent would have
to be used where you don't want the stuff to grab.
My 1 cent worth ...
Jerry Grimmonpre'
Is it possible to simply drape a single, lightweight
> strip across the gap? Let it cure and then build on that? One might have
> to go along every so often and give it a nip or tuck as it cures, but it
> might work. Pay attention to the bias of the weave, I'm not sure what
> would
> be best in this case.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: O320 to O360 conversion |
Usually a prolonged full power run is the last gasp before pulling the jugs
on an engine that consumes to much oil after overhaul.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oliver Washburn
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: O320 to O360 conversion
I have never read that the eng should be run wide open to break in. However
they do want you to run at high power settings for the first few hours.
Ollie
----- Original Message -----
From: "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: O320 to O360 conversion
>
> Sounds like almost as much hassle as finding a test stand and breaking it
> in on the ground. Ever consider this option?
>
> Bryan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8234#8234
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder questions |
1. I saw a very well done RV 7 this weekend with a trim wedge mounted on the
side of the rudder. Has anyone used an adjustable trim tab? It would be easy
to slip in while building the rudder.
2. Has anyone had experience with 3M polyurethane adhesive? I am thinking about
using it on the trailing edged assembly.
Sherman Butler
RV 7a Empennage
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Empennage
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | nut plate revets |
Is mounting nut plates with NAS-1097 rivets (oops) and acceptable practice?
It seems as if it would be easier in some locations, such as the trim plate.
Sherman Butler
RV 7a Empennage
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Empennage
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint |
Some of the other replies reference a fit problem but I read it that the
parts fit and that you had a small gap after riveting. If that's the case,
yes, you should drill them out and rivet again. Squeezing is the best
method there; I found that driven rivets tended to gap where the parts were
fairly flexible, unless I clamped near the hole, which made driving rivets
more difficult. Where those rib flanges are, there aren't enough clecos or
other structure to keep things from flexing and separating while you rivet.
This will be true on all remaining structure - wing ribs and fuselage
bulkheads.
The preceding refers to a gap at the rivet. It the gap is between rivets,
there is some fitment issue in the structure. I'd have a tech counselor
look at it and advise you.
Pat Kelley - RV-6A - Cabin floors in, working on passenger seat.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Folbrecht, Paul
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 1:16 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint
To clarify, this is the front-flange of the main rib to front-spar joint
on a 9A HS.
________________________________
From: Folbrecht, Paul
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 1:06 PM
Subject: Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint
I hate to have to post this.
As the title says, I have a slight gap in two ribs - one on each side.
It is at least wide enough to get a piece of paper under. I have not
yet installed the rear spar so I could drill these out and re-rivet.
Something tells me that I really ought to. Is it something I would need
to worry about? Is it a strength issue?
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nut plate revets |
Sherman,
The main purpose of a nutplate rivet is to hold the nut(plate) so you
can get a screw in it . . . the rivet is not usually structural. So I
would use what ever works in a given situation unless you perceive
that the rivet is doing something more than just holding the nutplate.
I generally try to use the rivet that is called out . . . but I would
rather have a good "blind rivet" than a bad driven one!
You talk about Oops rivets . . . which is just another form of driven
rivet in my shop and are used mainly when you have missdrilled
something and ended up to a over sized hole?
Good Luck,
Bob in SE Iowa
On 1/30/06, Sherman Butler wrote:
>
>
> Is mounting nut plates with NAS-1097 rivets (oops) and acceptable practice?
It seems as if it would be easier in some locations, such as the trim plate.
>
> Sherman Butler
> RV 7a Empennage
>
>
> Sherman Butler
> RV-7a Empennage
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Request for Kitplanes Magazine: Avionics Shops for Hazard Avoidance |
Installation
Hello all,
I'm working on an article for Kitplanes Magazine about the various products
for hazard avoidance (traffic, terrain and weather), and would like to hear
from anyone who's had this installed in their RV (or other homebuilt, if you
have more than an RV). In particular, I'd like to hear your experiences in
what you learned in the process, what you wish you had known at the outset,
how your experiences with the gear has been and whether it's met your
expectations. I would like to focus on the products that are not dug-in
certified gear, but rather designed and engineered for experimental
aircraft.
In addition, I would like to talk to a few avionics shops who have some
solid experience in these installations in experiementals, so if you have a
shop that you felt did a good job, that would be great.
For the sake of the list traffic, I may be contacted off-list at (de-spammed
email to follow):
Coryemberson (at) earthlink (dot) net
Also, congratulations to Dan Checkoway, chosen by SportAir workshops to
teach RV Assembly classes on the west coast. Attaboy, Dan! Your "Build Your
Skills: Metal" series in Kitplanes has been excellent! (And yes, I lifted
this from the latest issue's "Around the Patch"!)
Thanks very much!
Best,
Cory Emberson
Contributing Editor
Kitplanes Magazine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: nut plate revets |
In a message dated 1/30/2006 7:32:33 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com writes:
Is mounting nut plates with NAS-1097 rivets (oops) and acceptable practice?
It seems as if it would be easier in some locations, such as the trim plate.
=========================================
Absolutely. These rivets were almost made for this application.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 771hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nut plate revets |
Yes, 1097 rivets are acceptable and IMHO invaluable for installing
nutplates. The rivets only hold the nutplate in place, thetorque of the
screw in the nutplate provides the structural stuff. You could hold the
nutplate in place with dried bubblegum if you wanted to.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O320 to O360 conversion |
Hi,
I've not seen the origin on this tread, Lycoming's break in procedure tells
you to keep ground running to a minimum, use 75% power and for 5 min every
hour full throttle, and of course avoid shock cooling. Run the engine on
Straight 80 until such time oil consumption is established.
Re: the subject line, it is possible since the cast for the crankcase is the
same, however, everything else has to be changed, including the crank. The
cam is the same though in a lot of cases. A good project if you have nothing
better to do with your time and money :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 2:48 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: O320 to O360 conversion
>
> Usually a prolonged full power run is the last gasp before pulling the
> jugs
> on an engine that consumes to much oil after overhaul.
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oliver Washburn
> Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:27 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: O320 to O360 conversion
>
>
> I have never read that the eng should be run wide open to break in.
> However
> they do want you to run at high power settings for the first few hours.
> Ollie
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:14 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Re: O320 to O360 conversion
>
>
>>
>> Sounds like almost as much hassle as finding a test stand and breaking it
>> in on the ground. Ever consider this option?
>>
>> Bryan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8234#8234
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder questions |
The proseal in the traling edge is only there to assist novice builders in
the novice nuisance of double flush riveting. It can be build without
proseal. There are 3M adhesives for aerospace use more commonly used in the
composites structures. I'm not 100% about the numbers, but 3512 I think is
the fast drying and 2266 the slow one. I is quite a few years that I used
these adhesives. The slow one is in a Boeing material spec for the filler of
the Rudder on the 737 Classic and 737X.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherman Butler" <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 3:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder questions
>
> 1. I saw a very well done RV 7 this weekend with a trim wedge mounted on
> the side of the rudder. Has anyone used an adjustable trim tab? It
> would be easy to slip in while building the rudder.
>
>
> 2. Has anyone had experience with 3M polyurethane adhesive? I am
> thinking about using it on the trailing edged assembly.
>
> Sherman Butler
> RV 7a Empennage
>
>
> Sherman Butler
> RV-7a Empennage
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nut plate revets |
> Is mounting nut plates with NAS-1097 rivets (oops) and acceptable
practice? It seems as if it would be easier in some locations, such as the
trim plate.
>
You've gotten some good answers on this; but, let me throw in something.
Whatever you use to install nut plates, plate nuts, anchor nuts (official
name), make sure it's somthing that has enough strength to hold up for a
long time. You don't want your fasteners to give up at some point down the
line when you accidentally put too much torque on the anchor nut; so,
bubblegum may not work well enough. :-). Anchor nuts are used in places
where one can't get to them easily. Changing one out, or replacing the
rivets that hold them in place, can be a real task that you don't want. The
oops rivet may work; but, remember that tiny head may cause you problems
later if it decides to pull out. I'm not saying it will. I'm being
conservative. I've seen anchor nuts come loose on at least one side. It
became a task getting the anchor nut back in place well enough for the screw
to thread in without cross threading. I don't want that to happen if it's
buried deeply inside the structure where I'd have to disassemble a bunch of
stuff to get to it to fix it.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
RV-7A #70317
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder questions |
Jim,
Sounds like a craftsman. Actually I was thinking about a ground adjustable trim
tab. On my Grumman the exposed edge of 0.16 was about 6" X 1.25" on the
rudder and ailerons.
sears(at)searnet.com wrote:
> 1. I saw a very well done RV 7 this weekend with a trim wedge mounted
on the
> side of the rudder. Has anyone used an adjustable trim tab? It would be
easy to
> slip in while building the rudder.
A fellow I know has a trim tab mounted in the rudder of his RV-3 and will do
it for his RV-7. May have already done it. If I remember, the horn for the
tab is also hidden. He does very nice work. If you're close to Louisville,
KY, he may show it to you.
His name is Chuck Brietigam at brietigam(at)earthlink.net, if this address is
still good. His workmanship is beautiful.
.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
RV-7A #70317 (Putting lights in leading edges.)
EAA Tech Counselor
Sherman Butler
Idaho Falls
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Empennage
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: nut plate revets |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Is mounting nut plates with NAS-1097 rivets (oops) and acceptable practice?
It seems as if it would be easier in some locations, such as the trim plate.
-------
Sherman,
Absolutely. For nut plate application the NAS1097 is the fastener of choice. In
fact, you will surely compromise hole quality by attempting to machine countersink
thin material such as .025 to accept a kit supplied 426 rivet! The NAS
1097 is available in just about every length that the ubiquitious NAS426 is,
but the longer lengths can be hard to find. The rivet has long been used in the
production environment. No matter, the RV design only requires the smaller
lengths. I don't know for sure, but my guess is Van's coined the quaint little
term "oops" rivet to paint a word picture in the mind of a newbie in an attempt
to better describe one of the NAS1097AD4's potential qualities to a new builder
faced with a botched and oversized hole to fill. Actually the NAS1097 is
a far more utilitarian fastener than just serving in that capacity. Curiously,
Van's own people use the 1097 AD3 rivet to install nutplates/platenuts (the
term is interchangeable) but its application is never explained in the builders
manual. Van's stocks a few lengths of the NAS1097AD3. You will find the -3.5
to be by far the most commonly used length. Not found in the accessory catalog,
you have to refer to "the list" to find them. I have used the 1097 in many
places on the airframe, including a pattern on the canopy side skirts, rudder
cable fairing attachment, etc....wherever material thickness and the job
warrants their welcomed use. The oft misunderstood NAS1097....its not just an
"oops" rivet. Order your stash today!
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8391#8391
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint |
Hi Paul-
Re: "I hate to have to post this. As the title says, I have a slight
gap... ...It is at least wide enough to get a piece of paper under. I have
not
>yet installed the rear spar... ...Is it something I would need
>to worry about? Is it a strength issue?"
>
>Paul
If I understand your situation correctly, I would say that yes, those
should be re-done. I believe that structural members such as the ones in
question here should definitely be in full contact. I'd be concerned that
the rivets in question would loosen pretty quickly in service. In any
case, I'd also suggest that correcting the issue now will prevent sleepless
nights in the future.
I believe that the phenomena you have encountered here is generally caused
by not holding the bucking bar sufficiently tight to the rivet during
bucking. This allows the bucking bar to 'chatter' against the rivet, which
can cause the gap between the parts. You may wonder how I know this....
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <mchamberlain(at)runbox.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
Hi all,
Just wondering how many of you ordered/intend to order the Van's
firewall forward kit? I'm trying to decide if that is the best way to
go, or if it is better to just purchase the parts as needed. For those
of you who have used it; did you use everything in there? Or did some
items go to waste? How much other stuff did you need to purchase on top
of this for the firewall forward?
Thanks in advance for any help,
Mark
Fuselage - Finish kit arriving this week.
http://websites.expercraft.com/markc/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Porter" <december29(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
Mark,
I didn't use the firewall forward for two reasons. I had purchased a
"firewall forward" off a 2000 Decathlon and had a lot of duplication had I
gone with the Vans stuff. That said, I have spent a lot of time just
locating stuff so it doesn't conflict. I purchased some drawings to help
with firewall penetrations. If I had it to do over again, and didn't have
inverted systems, (ie standard Lycoming) I would have bought vans FWF and
been flying already. It has been the slowest part for me, and I'm one slow
builder, ha, ha. Have fun.
John Porter
#80002 (slowest -8 build of all time)
> Hi all,
>
> Just wondering how many of you ordered/intend to order the Van's
> firewall forward kit? >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
It seems that I overstated the case. I posted from the office, without
the parts in sight, after having thought about this "gap" for several
hours. It turns out that there is full contact where the rivets are and
the gaps are only between rivets, for whatever reason. I probably
should have clamped to prevent this (I had clecos in two of the three
holes when riveting but no clamps) but I don't think it's a concern.
Come to think of it, if the rib had been offset any significant amount,
the skin-to-rib rivets would not likely have fit without redrilling, and
they did.
So, again, I'm afraid this was 90% my newbie-perfectionism and my
overactive imagination at work. I apologize for not looking at things
more carefully before posting.
Thanks.
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glen Matejcek
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint
Hi Paul-
Re: "I hate to have to post this. As the title says, I have a slight
gap... ...It is at least wide enough to get a piece of paper under. I
have
not
>yet installed the rear spar... ...Is it something I would need
>to worry about? Is it a strength issue?"
>
>Paul
If I understand your situation correctly, I would say that yes, those
should be re-done. I believe that structural members such as the ones
in
question here should definitely be in full contact. I'd be concerned
that
the rivets in question would loosen pretty quickly in service. In any
case, I'd also suggest that correcting the issue now will prevent
sleepless
nights in the future.
I believe that the phenomena you have encountered here is generally
caused
by not holding the bucking bar sufficiently tight to the rivet during
bucking. This allows the bucking bar to 'chatter' against the rivet,
which
can cause the gap between the parts. You may wonder how I know this....
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | land of enchantment |
Hi all,
I am going to visit a friend in Las Cruces NM soon, can anyone recommend
some interesting places to go in a rented Skyhawk?
I live on the Olympic Peninsula, haven't seen the sun in months!
Kevin Shannon
HR-II under const
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
Kyle,
I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts to
expand on this.
Monokote has a very glossy finish. The resin may
still stick to the Monokote. Use mold release wax on
the Monokote followed with PVA mold release. Spray
multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote. PVA
has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the wax.
Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading. When
finished, the the piece will pop off the Monokote much
easier.
Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on Monokote.
Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is reactive
to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe the
surface clean. Obviously, use proper ventilation and
protective safety gear.
BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol. Any good fiberglass
supplier will stock this item.
Dave
--- Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
>
> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the
> canopy and fuselage. My
> cardboard of preference (from making the empennage
> fairing years ago) comes
> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...
>
> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing tape,
> and volia, female
> mold...
>
> Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote or
> similar shrink film,
> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi
> and fuselage, and shrink
> the stuff into the shape you want. Might even work.
> (Note- put a layer of
> packing tape between the monokote and your canopy,
> or risk color
> transfer)...
>
> KB
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 6:21 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from
> scratch
>
>
>
> >
> > Fiberglass gurus,
> >
> > After trying to get the metal skirt to fit on my
> RV-3 I'm giving up -- I'm
> > convinced God just didn't intend aluminum to be
> used for compound curves,
> > fiberglass on the other hand is perfectly suited
> for that. No worries with
> > laying it up and such (West Systems and 9 oz
> crowfoot e-glass), but what
> > I'd
> > appreciate some ideas on are how to craft a
> molding surface. I will pop
> > rivet my tipover plexi bubble to the frame in
> every other hole, which I
> > will
> > later drill out, so there won't need to be an
> clecos and thus I can layup
> > onto the plexi. But what do I use to create a form
> from the plexi down to
> > the fuselage, or to bridge the gap along the
> sides? This is way too much
> > area for the traditional modeling clay we use for
> intersection fairings.
> >
> > If I use any sort of tape it will create an uneven
> layup and require lots
> > of
> > sanding and filling, something I'd rather avoid. I
> was thinking of using
> > expandable foam around the front and rear sections
> (won't work on the
> > sides)
> > and then sculpting it. Seems like I heard that the
> cans of foam you can
> > buy
> > at Home Depot aren't good because they contain
> formaldehyde, not sure why
> > that's bad though.
> > Spruce has Poly-Cell 100 Polyurethane Foam
> >
>
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/polycel.php
> > and Liquid "X30" Foam
> >
>
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/x30foam.php
> >
> > Anyone had an experience with either of these?
> When using foam, do you lay
> > up directly on it, or coat it with something
> first?
> >
> > And lastly, what would be a good way to create a
> surface on the sides?
> > Here's a pic of what I'm dealing with...
> >
>
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Gallery/DSC_0899.jpg
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Randy Lervold
> > www.rv-3.com
> > www.rv-8.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
Call Van's and have them fax you the inventory list for the FWF kit for your
particular engine+intake. You can then pick and choose what you want
omitted or included. Or just use it for a reference to do your own
shopping.
I had a handful of items that I didn't end up using -- particularly hoses
that didn't quite work with my setup. The more *bone stock* your setup is,
the more applicable the FWF kit is, and vice versa.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (802 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Porter" <december29(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Firewall Forward Kit
>
> Mark,
> I didn't use the firewall forward for two reasons. I had purchased a
> "firewall forward" off a 2000 Decathlon and had a lot of duplication had I
> gone with the Vans stuff. That said, I have spent a lot of time just
> locating stuff so it doesn't conflict. I purchased some drawings to help
> with firewall penetrations. If I had it to do over again, and didn't have
> inverted systems, (ie standard Lycoming) I would have bought vans FWF and
> been flying already. It has been the slowest part for me, and I'm one
> slow
> builder, ha, ha. Have fun.
>
> John Porter
> #80002 (slowest -8 build of all time)
>
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Just wondering how many of you ordered/intend to order the Van's
>> firewall forward kit? >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
What have others done to hang their headsets on to keep them out of the way?
I keep mine plugged in and ready to go so would like to come up with
something that won't hinder climbing into and out of my RV-4.
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
Mark,
I would strongly recommend the firewall forward kit. Otherwise you are going
to spend an inordinate amount of time figuring out what to order (hoses,
clamps, special bolts, washers, etc, etc.) There will still be enough of
that to do anyway. In some cases you could order the individual kits, such
as the Filtered Air Box kit or the Baffle kit, but it is much easier to just
get the Firewall Forward kit.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Baffling
Seattle
Hi all,
Just wondering how many of you ordered/intend to order the Van's
firewall forward kit? I'm trying to decide if that is the best way to
go, or if it is better to just purchase the parts as needed. For those
of you who have used it; did you use everything in there? Or did some
items go to waste? How much other stuff did you need to purchase on top
of this for the firewall forward?
Thanks in advance for any help,
Mark
Fuselage - Finish kit arriving this week.
http://websites.expercraft.com/markc/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
I purchased it. Had some duplication, but made it up in lots of time saved.
I'd definetly recommend purchasing it.
Chuck Weyant
RV9A Slowbuild
140 Hours now and loving it!
>
> Call Van's and have them fax you the inventory list for the FWF kit for
> your
> particular engine+intake. You can then pick and choose what you want
> omitted or included. Or just use it for a reference to do your own
> shopping.
>
> I had a handful of items that I didn't end up using -- particularly hoses
> that didn't quite work with my setup. The more *bone stock* your setup
> is,
> the more applicable the FWF kit is, and vice versa.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (802 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Headset Hanger |
I've got a photo of a stolen idea for a 6(A) slider.
Don't know how it might apply to a 4 though.
Zap me offline.....
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: PGLong(at)aol.com
>Sent: Jan 31, 2006 11:24 AM
>To: Rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Headset Hanger
>
>
>What have others done to hang their headsets on to keep them out of the way?
>I keep mine plugged in and ready to go so would like to come up with
>something that won't hinder climbing into and out of my RV-4.
>
>Pat Long
>PGLong(at)aol.com
>N120PL
>RV4
>Bay City, Michigan
>3CM
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larygagnon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
I've been using Van's firewall forward kit and wiring kit in a 6A under
construction. We decided to use the RV7A configuration with the Odyssey battery
installation and so far everything lines up the way it's supposed to. You
have to put things where Van's tells you to so all the brackets, cables and hoses
work but just make sure you're using the correct plan sheet and firewall
penetration chart for your configuration. We are not using the vertical panel
from the panel to the floor and that means the mixture cable and manual trim
cable are in a different position and one is too short and one is too long. We
just deleted the cables from the package and will order them later when their
length is determined. I haven't found the need to order any extra parts yet
but I'm sure when I get into the wiring there will be bit's and pieces
necessary. All the big stuff is there, baffle kit, alternator and mounting kit,
airbox,
motor mounts with bolts, plumbing, things I had to make multiple orders from
Van's and Spruce to get are all here so there is no excuse for not making
progress on the project. Good luck.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 N6LG 90 hours
RV6A finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Hollister AWOS??? |
I was in Los Banos last night and a local pilot gave me a phone number for Hollister
AWOS. Now that I am home I wanted to get that phone
number again and cannot find anything on the web about Hollister having an AWOS,
let alone a phone number to get to it. Does anyone
know what the phone number is to call Hollister AWOS?
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hollister AWOS??? |
I think the Hollister AWOS phone number is 1-831-724-8794. Don't know for
sure, I just googled it.
Bill King
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 12:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Hollister AWOS???
>
> I was in Los Banos last night and a local pilot gave me a phone number for
> Hollister AWOS. Now that I am home I wanted to get that phone
> number again and cannot find anything on the web about Hollister having an
> AWOS, let alone a phone number to get to it. Does anyone
> know what the phone number is to call Hollister AWOS?
>
> - Matt
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joelrhaynes(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | No safety wire hole for oil temp probe |
The oil temp probe supplied with my engine monitor (Dynon EMS D10) has no hole
drilled for attaching safety wire. This seems unusual to me. I'm wondering if
I should attempt to drill a hole myself or perhaps just acquire a new temp probe.
Any thoughts.
Joel Haynes
Bozeman, MT
7A Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joelrhaynes(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: PC Simulators |
I have purchased several version of MS Flight Simulator through the years and I
still do not like it. However, I have found OnTop version 8 from ASA to be a
great IFR trainer. Don't expect great graphics out the window because it's an
IFR trainer. But the panel graphics are great and you can configure the panel
in many different ways for a variety of aircraft. It has all the VORs, NDBs,
airports, etc. It flies like a real airplane.
Joel Haynes
Bozeman, MT
7A Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Flight sim for RV??? |
Try the Flight Factory RV-7/7A. You can probably tweak it to match your
aircraft's performance.
Pat Kelley - RV-6A - working on seats
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 6:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flight sim for RV???
This may have been asked before but I can't find anything in the
archives....
Does anyone have an RV (I fly an RV9A) for the Microsoft Flight Sim?
Thanks -
Kim Nicholas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marty Helller" <marty_away(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hollister AWOS??? try anyAWOS.com |
Have you tried www.anyawos.com? Phone is 877-269 2967. According to the
phone message, the service becomes subscription only on 6 Feb.....
Marty
RV-7
Still hoping to tip the canoe someday....
>From: "William King" <bill@kane-king.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Hollister AWOS???
>Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 13:33:31 -0500
>
>
>I think the Hollister AWOS phone number is 1-831-724-8794. Don't know for
>sure, I just googled it.
>
>Bill King
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
>To: ; ;
>
>Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 12:59 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Hollister AWOS???
>
>
> >
> > I was in Los Banos last night and a local pilot gave me a phone number
>for
> > Hollister AWOS. Now that I am home I wanted to get that phone
> > number again and cannot find anything on the web about Hollister having
>an
> > AWOS, let alone a phone number to get to it. Does anyone
> > know what the phone number is to call Hollister AWOS?
> >
> > - Matt
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)cebridge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight sim for RV??? |
Pat,
Try this link. http://www.surclaro.com/downloads_c23_10_dateD.html You
might have to join up but its free and there are a lot of files and
information to download. There are some other files you might want to go
with this that allow you to tweek it into a fair model. if you do let me
know. There is also an RV-6 on this site.
Do Not Arcive
Have Fun
John D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flight sim for RV???
>
> Try the Flight Factory RV-7/7A. You can probably tweak it to match your
> aircraft's performance.
>
> Pat Kelley - RV-6A - working on seats
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Knicholas2(at)aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 6:06 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Flight sim for RV???
>
>
> This may have been asked before but I can't find anything in the
> archives....
>
> Does anyone have an RV (I fly an RV9A) for the Microsoft Flight Sim?
>
> Thanks -
> Kim Nicholas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Listers,
For years I have just lived with the fact that #3 CHT is always higher than the
rest. I have flown my RV-8 for 950 hours with #3 CHT running 15* higher than
the rest, after I put the temp riser in front of #1. Then, awhile back someone
mentioned putting a washer between the #3 cylinder and the back baffle where
the screw holds the baffle to #3. Well, I put a 1/8" washer there and sure
enough, #3 CHT came down 15* and now all four CHTs are with 4* of one another.
Thanks to whomever made the suggestion. So #3 CHT does not have to be higher
than the rest!!! Another myth busted.
Stu McCurdy
RV-8 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
Just goes to show how important a engine monitor is. Otherwise you really dont
know what your engine is doing.
Is there anyone out there who thought their engine was running great, then put
in a engine monitor and realized just how bad the temps were? Care to share
with us?
sturdy(at)att.net wrote:
Listers,
For years I have just lived with the fact that #3 CHT is always higher than the
rest. I have flown my RV-8 for 950 hours with #3 CHT running 15* higher than
the rest, after I put the temp riser in front of #1. Then, awhile back someone
mentioned putting a washer between the #3 cylinder and the back baffle where
the screw holds the baffle to #3. Well, I put a 1/8" washer there and sure enough,
#3 CHT came down 15* and now all four CHTs are with 4* of one another. Thanks
to whomever made the suggestion. So #3 CHT does not have to be higher than
the rest!!! Another myth busted.
Stu McCurdy
RV-8 Flying
Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
cell 858-395-5094
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: PC Simulators |
----- Original Message -----
From: joelrhaynes(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 5:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fwd: PC Simulators
When it comes to MS Flight Simulator, there are many 3rd party add-on aircraft,
both freeware and payware, that are designed and programmed by people with many
years experience. And some of these designers range from private GA airplane
owners to 767 Captains. The end result is also a simulated plane that fly's
like a plane, as well as panels that look very real.
Personally, I prefer MS to On Top, because of the realistic topography mesh that's
available for the areas I fly in the Mt. West. I like simulated airports
that are located within the surrounding topography, as they are in real life.
It's like flying there, before you actually do. You can get a good idea of the
airport layout including taxiways beforehand.
I have purchased several version of MS Flight Simulator through the years and I
still do not like it. However, I have found OnTop version 8 from ASA to be a
great IFR trainer. Don't expect great graphics out the window because it's an
IFR trainer. But the panel graphics are great and you can configure the panel
in many different ways for a variety of aircraft. It has all the VORs, NDBs,
airports, etc. It flies like a real airplane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Scaringe <bscaringe(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Tools For Sale: 2X Rivet Gun, 5000 rpm 3/8 Air Drill, Rivet Cutter |
Hi Builders, my divorce sale continues with these high quality tools on eBay:
U.S. Air Tool 2X Rivet Gun
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7586776693
Rockwell 5000 rpm 3/8 Air Drill
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7586774967
Heavy Duty Rivet Cutter
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7586771504
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hollister AWOS??? try anyAWOS.com |
Yeah, I had tried anyAWOS, they did not have it. I just got it though from another
pilot who called the airport. Thanks for the
suggestion. I guess it is pretty new and not registered with anything yet but you
can call it.
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Marty Helller" <marty_away(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2006 01:43:33 +0000
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hollister AWOS??? try anyAWOS.com
>
> Have you tried www.anyawos.com? Phone is 877-269 2967. According to
> the
> phone message, the service becomes subscription only on 6 Feb.....
>
> Marty
> RV-7
> Still hoping to tip the canoe someday....
>
>
> >From: "William King" <bill@kane-king.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Hollister AWOS???
> >Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 13:33:31 -0500
> >
> >
> >I think the Hollister AWOS phone number is 1-831-724-8794. Don't know
> for
> >sure, I just googled it.
> >
> >Bill King
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
> >To: ; ;
> >
> >Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 12:59 PM
> >Subject: RV-List: Hollister AWOS???
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I was in Los Banos last night and a local pilot gave me a phone
> number
> >for
> > > Hollister AWOS. Now that I am home I wanted to get that phone
> > > number again and cannot find anything on the web about Hollister
> having
> >an
> > > AWOS, let alone a phone number to get to it. Does anyone
> > > know what the phone number is to call Hollister AWOS?
> > >
> > > - Matt
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | EIS Settings / Pages |
Speaking of engine monitors... I have been doing some tweaking on my EIS
and have created a spreadsheet I use for figuring out the settings and
getting down on paper before transferring them to the EIS and have put a
copy on my web site if anyone wants to download it:
http://www.rv8a.com/downloads/
Anyway, I am interested in how people have their EIS configured,
specifically;
What are you displaying on your custom pages?
What limits do you have set?
Moreover, What limits do you have set for:
MAX EGT SPAN
MAX EGT INC
MAX EGT DEC
MAX C RATE
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
www.rv8a.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <mchamberlain(at)runbox.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
Thanks for all the great information on this folks!
It sounds like this is the way to go, especially at the speed I'm
building at, with this I will have most of what I need when I need it
and won't be waiting for another shipment every five minutes. Van's is
pretty good when it comes to returning stuff (usually) so I'm guessing
they'll let me return anything I don't use anyway.
Thanks again,
Mark - 234C (res)
http://websites.expercraft.com/markc/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
I've got them all in a handy spreadsheet. Email me OFFLINE if you want
a copy sent to you.
The spreadsheet is set up for an IO-540, but most, if not all, of the
settings are applicable to RV engines. The only thing I can think of
that doesn't apply is the %power chart and the fuel inj stuff if you're
carbureted.
Vince
F-1H Rocket, N540VF
http://vincesrocket.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Headset Hanger |
Pat, I saw a clever idea at S&F last year. Van's display model had a small
bent pc 025 alum riveted to the mid level angle brace to left of pilot's
knee. This creates a "hook" to hang the headsets on. Put one on each side
of my RV6A last year. Works just fine. They are out of the way until you
are ready for them. Don't know if this is adaptable to RV4, but worth a look.
Dick
At 11:24 AM 1/31/2006, you wrote:
>
>What have others done to hang their headsets on to keep them out of the way?
>I keep mine plugged in and ready to go so would like to come up with
>something that won't hinder climbing into and out of my RV-4.
>
>Pat Long
>PGLong(at)aol.com
>N120PL
>RV4
>Bay City, Michigan
>3CM
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Anglin" <n144hr(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
I bought Van's RV8 wiring kit for $200 + - and used it on my HR II. It was perfect,
saved time and headaches, and had to be less expensive than buying too
much of everything. If his FWF kit is as good you can't miss. I have been dealing
with Van since I started my RV6 in 1989, and the cadre he has now are nothing
short of phenomenal in their engineering. Take this for what it's worth
but if I were in your shoes I would buy it.
jim
HR II N144HR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Morrow" <DanFM01(at)butter.toast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hollister AWOS??? |
The "Pilot's Guide to California Airports" lists the Hollister AWOS number
as 831-636-4394. I tried it and it works.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 9:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Hollister AWOS???
>
> I was in Los Banos last night and a local pilot gave me a phone number for
> Hollister AWOS. Now that I am home I wanted to get that phone
> number again and cannot find anything on the web about Hollister having an
> AWOS, let alone a phone number to get to it. Does anyone
> know what the phone number is to call Hollister AWOS?
>
> - Matt
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lancenewman" <lancenewman(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CYL high temp |
Those temps sound reasonable to me. Frankly, I would wait until the seasonal
temps begin to heat up a bit and see how the airplane flies leaned back at
altitude. Remember that temps will come down as your altitude increases.
Your well below the recommended temp for maximum service life.
I'm flying an RV6 with a new 0320 D1A and an 80 pitch Sensenich FP. I'm
running about 374F at 65% cruise and 392F flat out. My climb temp is 428F
full throttle. Oil temp 176-194F. This is at 3000' and below. At 8000' and
above subract about 3-5 percent from those numbers. Here is the complete
list of CHT problems in case you don't want to read all the way through this
message before troubleshooting.
1. Spark plugs of improper heat rating
2. Cooling baffles, missing, broken or bent. Be sure you have the lycoming
baffles between the cylinders. Not just the baffling kit that came from
Van's.
3. Partially plugged fuel nozzle
4. Fuel lines of improper I.D. Should be .085 to .090 for lycoming engines.
Primer lines must have restrictor fittings.
5. Engine improperly timed.
6. Engine running too lean. Look for carbon deposits in the combustion
chamber, if there are none, the engine is being run continually too lean.
7. Improper rigging of mixture control. Ensure full travel capability.
8. Exhaust gas leak into the cylinder. Look for burned paint or white
deposits.
9. Loose or bad CHT leads. Only use bayonette style. Spark plug ring style
are junk.
Temps to remember
Oil Temp - 160F to 245F . At least 180 deg F to ensure vaporization of
moisture out of the oil.
CHT- Minimum in flight 150F. Cruise range 350-435F ( not to exceed 400F
for maximum service life)
EGT- 1200-1600F. (1400F for maximum service life)
Probe calibration
Forget about having to buy expensive thermometers to calibrate your probes.
Just emerse the probes in boiling water and look for consistancy around 212
deg F. If you have all 4 monitored, try swapping around to look for a change
in readings. Once you feel comfortable that your monitoring is accurate to
within 10 deg F or so you can begin to look for ways to bring the temps
down. The most common sources of problems lie in Mixture control and baffle
efficiency. Lets attack them one at a time
Mixture Questions
Which is your hottest cylinder, should be #3 or #4. The leanest running
cylinder is going to be the hottest. My experience is that #3 usually runs a
little leaner than the rest and therefore hotter. If you have carb heat, try
cracking it slightly to enrich the mixture and see if the temp comes down.
If this works, you might go with it. If your still worried, we will move on.
If your engine is running a bit lean at cruise rpm, the only way you can
improve this would be to bore out the jets by a tiny amount. This would be
the last option after you try all else. The mixture dial on the carb is only
for idle mixuture adjustment and will have no effect on cruise mixture.
Baffling Questions
Have you tried to tape vortex generators on the baffling just forward of the
entry to cyl 1 and 2. They will increase airflow past 1 and 2 and feed more
air back to 3 and 4. The comments about keeping the cylinder fins clean and
clear are good ones as well. You can also adjust the air exit velocity by
playing with your safety wire length under the baffles. If you want to get
real inventive, you can change the air exit velocity from the coweling by
cutting away about 1/4" at a time from the trailing edge of the scoop.
The biggest breakthrough I found was to put fiberglass boxes above the air
entry ports into the coweling using those funny looking layups that Van's
sends you with the finish kit. Pop rivet and glass those in and seal off the
open ends with more layups so that air can't circulate unterneath them.
Frankly, I would wait until the seasonal temps begin to heat up a bit and
see how the airplane flies leaned back at altitude. Remember that temps will
come down as your altitude increases.
Happy Landings
----- Original Message -----
From: "lowell lemay" <llemay1(at)austin.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 12:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: CYL high temp
>
> Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp on a new
> Mattituck O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have plugged most
> holes..placed horizontal flanges on top inside of plenum near the split in
> the cyl heads, and cut off 1 inch across the middle bottom of the under
> cowling. Started with over 425 on # 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them
> down to about 380 with 55 F OAT. Will need more room when it gets
> hot...........Now have 40 hours and consider it broken in...Lowell
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <dan.beadle(at)inclinesoftworks.com> |
I am not flying the same engine, but the oil temps look great.
The CHT seems a little high on climb out - I shoot for 400 degrees max,
using cowl flaps. One engine runs 375 (gages have been calibrated
recently). Generally, cooler is better for CHT. Oil Temp should get to 180
or so to boil off moisture in it.
So your temps all sound pretty "Normal"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lancenewman
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: CYL high temp
Those temps sound reasonable to me. Frankly, I would wait until the seasonal
temps begin to heat up a bit and see how the airplane flies leaned back at
altitude. Remember that temps will come down as your altitude increases.
Your well below the recommended temp for maximum service life.
I'm flying an RV6 with a new 0320 D1A and an 80 pitch Sensenich FP. I'm
running about 374F at 65% cruise and 392F flat out. My climb temp is 428F
full throttle. Oil temp 176-194F. This is at 3000' and below. At 8000' and
above subract about 3-5 percent from those numbers. Here is the complete
list of CHT problems in case you don't want to read all the way through this
message before troubleshooting.
1. Spark plugs of improper heat rating
2. Cooling baffles, missing, broken or bent. Be sure you have the lycoming
baffles between the cylinders. Not just the baffling kit that came from
Van's.
3. Partially plugged fuel nozzle
4. Fuel lines of improper I.D. Should be .085 to .090 for lycoming engines.
Primer lines must have restrictor fittings.
5. Engine improperly timed.
6. Engine running too lean. Look for carbon deposits in the combustion
chamber, if there are none, the engine is being run continually too lean.
7. Improper rigging of mixture control. Ensure full travel capability.
8. Exhaust gas leak into the cylinder. Look for burned paint or white
deposits.
9. Loose or bad CHT leads. Only use bayonette style. Spark plug ring style
are junk.
Temps to remember
Oil Temp - 160F to 245F . At least 180 deg F to ensure vaporization of
moisture out of the oil.
CHT- Minimum in flight 150F. Cruise range 350-435F ( not to exceed 400F
for maximum service life)
EGT- 1200-1600F. (1400F for maximum service life)
Probe calibration
Forget about having to buy expensive thermometers to calibrate your probes.
Just emerse the probes in boiling water and look for consistancy around 212
deg F. If you have all 4 monitored, try swapping around to look for a change
in readings. Once you feel comfortable that your monitoring is accurate to
within 10 deg F or so you can begin to look for ways to bring the temps
down. The most common sources of problems lie in Mixture control and baffle
efficiency. Lets attack them one at a time
Mixture Questions
Which is your hottest cylinder, should be #3 or #4. The leanest running
cylinder is going to be the hottest. My experience is that #3 usually runs a
little leaner than the rest and therefore hotter. If you have carb heat, try
cracking it slightly to enrich the mixture and see if the temp comes down.
If this works, you might go with it. If your still worried, we will move on.
If your engine is running a bit lean at cruise rpm, the only way you can
improve this would be to bore out the jets by a tiny amount. This would be
the last option after you try all else. The mixture dial on the carb is only
for idle mixuture adjustment and will have no effect on cruise mixture.
Baffling Questions
Have you tried to tape vortex generators on the baffling just forward of the
entry to cyl 1 and 2. They will increase airflow past 1 and 2 and feed more
air back to 3 and 4. The comments about keeping the cylinder fins clean and
clear are good ones as well. You can also adjust the air exit velocity by
playing with your safety wire length under the baffles. If you want to get
real inventive, you can change the air exit velocity from the coweling by
cutting away about 1/4" at a time from the trailing edge of the scoop.
The biggest breakthrough I found was to put fiberglass boxes above the air
entry ports into the coweling using those funny looking layups that Van's
sends you with the finish kit. Pop rivet and glass those in and seal off the
open ends with more layups so that air can't circulate unterneath them.
Frankly, I would wait until the seasonal temps begin to heat up a bit and
see how the airplane flies leaned back at altitude. Remember that temps will
come down as your altitude increases.
Happy Landings
----- Original Message -----
From: "lowell lemay" <llemay1(at)austin.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 12:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: CYL high temp
>
> Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp on a new
> Mattituck O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have plugged most
> holes..placed horizontal flanges on top inside of plenum near the split in
> the cyl heads, and cut off 1 inch across the middle bottom of the under
> cowling. Started with over 425 on # 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them
> down to about 380 with 55 F OAT. Will need more room when it gets
> hot...........Now have 40 hours and consider it broken in...Lowell
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
Guys, the Monokote idea might just work well, and I have a couple of rolls
laying around. What is Monokote actually made of, and is there a chance that
epoxy resin won't stick to it? Also, how well can you control what/where it
adheres? And lastly, how tough is it to get off, the plexi in particular?
Anyone have more experience with it?
Randy
>
> Kyle,
>
> I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts to
> expand on this.
>
> Monokote has a very glossy finish. The resin may
> still stick to the Monokote. Use mold release wax on
> the Monokote followed with PVA mold release. Spray
> multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote. PVA
> has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the wax.
> Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading. When
> finished, the the piece will pop off the Monokote much
> easier.
>
> Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on Monokote.
> Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is reactive
> to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe the
> surface clean. Obviously, use proper ventilation and
> protective safety gear.
>
> BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol. Any good fiberglass
> supplier will stock this item.
>
> Dave
>
>
> --- Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the
>> canopy and fuselage. My
>> cardboard of preference (from making the empennage
>> fairing years ago) comes
>> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...
>>
>> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing tape,
>> and volia, female
>> mold...
>>
>> Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote or
>> similar shrink film,
>> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi
>> and fuselage, and shrink
>> the stuff into the shape you want. Might even work.
>> (Note- put a layer of
>> packing tape between the monokote and your canopy,
>> or risk color
>> transfer)...
>>
>> KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
Randy,
Monokote is a plastic film used to cover model
aircraft. It is heatshrinkable and has a heat
activated adhesive which is also the pigment.
First off, DO NOT adhere Monokote to plexi!!!!! I
have just started my project and I am not totally
familiar with the canopy area. After reading the
posts regarding this, I was thinking that their was an
area on the fuselage at the canopy that was used as a
mold. I would only attach Monokote to bare metal or
to a surface that is NOT reactive to acetone or dope
thinner. Do not under any circumstances use acetone
or dope thinner on plexi.
If Monokote is the way you want to go, consider the
following. Buy a Monokote iron from a hobby shop,
about $20. Follow the directions therein. When
attaching, only seal the edges down. When shrinking
the rest, do not press down on the iron. Let the
weight of the iron do the work. Shrink the Monokote
till all wrinkles are gone. Make your layups with
suitable mold release products.
Upon removal, you will find some of the Monokote will
have adhered to sealed edge areas and quite possibly
the center as well. Use acetone or dope thinner in a
clean rag with proper ventilation and safety equipment
to remove the adhered Monokote.
You will find the inside of your lamination to be
glass smooth which I would lightly sand to break the
glaze. Use
your favorite adhesive to attach the skirt to
the canopy.
I have used Monokote to cover model aircraft for 30
years and for mold making because it makes a smooth
surface without a great deal of work.
One last thought, if you put Monokote on the plexi,
only put it on the area that would be under the skirt.
To remove it from the plexi, use a small orbital
sander with a fine grit paper. I am guessing that you
would need to rough this surface up anyways. I
re-iterate, do not use solvents on the plexi.
Dave
--- Randy Lervold wrote:
>
>
> Guys, the Monokote idea might just work well, and I
> have a couple of rolls
> laying around. What is Monokote actually made of,
> and is there a chance that
> epoxy resin won't stick to it? Also, how well can
> you control what/where it
> adheres? And lastly, how tough is it to get off, the
> plexi in particular?
>
> Anyone have more experience with it?
>
> Randy
>
>
>
>
> >
> > Kyle,
> >
> > I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts to
> > expand on this.
> >
> > Monokote has a very glossy finish. The resin may
> > still stick to the Monokote. Use mold release wax
> on
> > the Monokote followed with PVA mold release.
> Spray
> > multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote.
> PVA
> > has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the
> wax.
> > Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading.
> When
> > finished, the the piece will pop off the Monokote
> much
> > easier.
> >
> > Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on
> Monokote.
> > Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is
> reactive
> > to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe the
> > surface clean. Obviously, use proper ventilation
> and
> > protective safety gear.
> >
> > BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol. Any good
> fiberglass
> > supplier will stock this item.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> > --- Kyle Boatright
> wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the
> >> canopy and fuselage. My
> >> cardboard of preference (from making the
> empennage
> >> fairing years ago) comes
> >> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...
> >>
> >> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing
> tape,
> >> and volia, female
> >> mold...
> >>
> >> Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote
> or
> >> similar shrink film,
> >> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi
> >> and fuselage, and shrink
> >> the stuff into the shape you want. Might even
> work.
> >> (Note- put a layer of
> >> packing tape between the monokote and your
> canopy,
> >> or risk color
> >> transfer)...
> >>
> >> KB
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
I clecoed on the rear spar of the HS and noticed a bit of gap between the skin
and the spar, even at the clecos, with clecos in every other hole. I figured
I had countersunk enough and so took it apart and went a bit deeper. (I tested
the cage on a peice of scrap again and it seemed very good, with a dimple on
another scrap peice the same thickness as the skin fitting nicely.)
Clecod it back together and in most places there is really no gap, but not quite
everywhere. I was careful to countersink the full depth on each hole - so that
no more metal was coming off. I test drove a couple rivets at the places
with the gaps and found that it remained. It's enough to insert a peice of paper
about 1/8", but no more.
The thing is, I'm afraid to really go any deeper with the cage because it was very
near the point where the hole would be enlarged.
I took a look at my QB wings and noticed that the TE skin has no gap - except near
the edges, where I *can* get a piece of paper in there a bit.
Again, the paper goes in about 1/8" - maybe halfway to where the rivet is. I think
the irregularities (some areas tigher than others) are due more to small
variations in alignment than differences in the countersinking.
Is this normal, or Ok? If you've built a HS lately, did you notice this? Am I
being a bit anal or am I right to wonder about this? Should I risk countersinking
a bit deeper, on the areas with a bit of gap?
Paul
9A QB #1176
P.S. I *did* end up completely drilling out and bending one of those problem ribs
of earlier in the week. I'm much happier with the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin |
You should not be using a counter-sink on the rear spar. These parts are
thin enough to dimple.
Don
RV7
Wiring Instrument Panel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Folbrecht, Paul
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 5:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin
I clecoed on the rear spar of the HS and noticed a bit of gap between the
skin and the spar, even at the clecos, with clecos in every other hole. I
figured I had countersunk enough and so took it apart and went a bit deeper.
(I tested the cage on a peice of scrap again and it seemed very good, with a
dimple on another scrap peice the same thickness as the skin fitting
nicely.)
Clecod it back together and in most places there is really no gap, but not
quite everywhere. I was careful to countersink the full depth on each
hole - so that no more metal was coming off. I test drove a couple rivets
at the places with the gaps and found that it remained. It's enough to
insert a peice of paper about 1/8", but no more.
The thing is, I'm afraid to really go any deeper with the cage because it
was very near the point where the hole would be enlarged.
I took a look at my QB wings and noticed that the TE skin has no gap -
except near the edges, where I *can* get a piece of paper in there a bit.
Again, the paper goes in about 1/8" - maybe halfway to where the rivet is.
I think the irregularities (some areas tigher than others) are due more to
small variations in alignment than differences in the countersinking.
Is this normal, or Ok? If you've built a HS lately, did you notice this?
Am I being a bit anal or am I right to wonder about this? Should I risk
countersinking a bit deeper, on the areas with a bit of gap?
Paul
9A QB #1176
P.S. I *did* end up completely drilling out and bending one of those problem
ribs of earlier in the week. I'm much happier with the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | cablecraft good customer service |
I just received a shipment of 3 control cables from Cablecraft today.
When I was handed the box - sort of a big pizza box- it was clear that
there was a big crease across the middle of it. UPS had bent it, I
guess. Anyway, one of the cables had the threaded rod at the end badly
bent. I called Cablecraft and they immediately offered to rush me a
replacement even though it wasn't their fault. The stuff is shipped
F.O.B. Cablecraft, so I should be the one going after UPS. This is a
$225 cable. They don't even want me to ship the damaged cable back to them!
I'm impressed.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle(at)hq.InclineSoftworks.com> |
I am thinking about the IO390 for my RV8.
Did you have any trouble adapting the IO390 to the RV8. Did the cowling
fit as-is? What did you do for exhaust? What about ignition? I am
thinking FADEC would be cool, but don't know the issues here. What
real performance do you see in cruise with the ACI prop? (and
conditions)
Finally, what about insurance? Technically, the 390 is more HP than
Vans recommends. Did your insurance carrier care? I live in Sierra
Nevadas - so climb is always welcome. (We expect to have portable O2 in
the plane most of the time).
Thanks
Dan Beadle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | South Lakeland Home Owners Fly-in |
X-49 South Lakeland Airport will have its annual Super Bowl Saturday
Home Owners Flyin this Saturday. All are welcome to fly or drive in.
The activity will be centered around the FBO building on the South
end of the airport. B-fast and lunch will be avalible from the local
shriners and all proceeds go to a great cause. Just a good time
seeing old friends and making new ones.....
Runway 14/32 aprox 4000 feet grass. X-49
Sponsored by EAA Chapter 149UL
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
I don't know the thickness, but it's pretty thick, and the manual does
specify countersinking...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DonVS
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 7:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin
You should not be using a counter-sink on the rear spar. These parts
are
thin enough to dimple.
Don
RV7
Wiring Instrument Panel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Folbrecht, Paul
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 5:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin
I clecoed on the rear spar of the HS and noticed a bit of gap between
the
skin and the spar, even at the clecos, with clecos in every other hole.
I
figured I had countersunk enough and so took it apart and went a bit
deeper.
(I tested the cage on a peice of scrap again and it seemed very good,
with a
dimple on another scrap peice the same thickness as the skin fitting
nicely.)
Clecod it back together and in most places there is really no gap, but
not
quite everywhere. I was careful to countersink the full depth on each
hole - so that no more metal was coming off. I test drove a couple
rivets
at the places with the gaps and found that it remained. It's enough to
insert a peice of paper about 1/8", but no more.
The thing is, I'm afraid to really go any deeper with the cage because
it
was very near the point where the hole would be enlarged.
I took a look at my QB wings and noticed that the TE skin has no gap -
except near the edges, where I *can* get a piece of paper in there a
bit.
Again, the paper goes in about 1/8" - maybe halfway to where the rivet
is.
I think the irregularities (some areas tigher than others) are due more
to
small variations in alignment than differences in the countersinking.
Is this normal, or Ok? If you've built a HS lately, did you notice
this?
Am I being a bit anal or am I right to wonder about this? Should I risk
countersinking a bit deeper, on the areas with a bit of gap?
Paul
9A QB #1176
P.S. I *did* end up completely drilling out and bending one of those
problem
ribs of earlier in the week. I'm much happier with the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dsvs(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin |
OK. Sorry about that . On thye 7 the manual says dimple.
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com>
>
>
> I don't know the thickness, but it's pretty thick, and the manual does
> specify countersinking...
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DonVS
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 7:56 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin
>
>
> You should not be using a counter-sink on the rear spar. These parts
> are
> thin enough to dimple.
>
> Don
> RV7
> Wiring Instrument Panel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Folbrecht, Paul
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 5:33 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin
>
>
>
>
> I clecoed on the rear spar of the HS and noticed a bit of gap between
> the
> skin and the spar, even at the clecos, with clecos in every other hole.
> I
> figured I had countersunk enough and so took it apart and went a bit
> deeper.
> (I tested the cage on a peice of scrap again and it seemed very good,
> with a
> dimple on another scrap peice the same thickness as the skin fitting
> nicely.)
>
> Clecod it back together and in most places there is really no gap, but
> not
> quite everywhere. I was careful to countersink the full depth on each
> hole - so that no more metal was coming off. I test drove a couple
> rivets
> at the places with the gaps and found that it remained. It's enough to
> insert a peice of paper about 1/8", but no more.
>
> The thing is, I'm afraid to really go any deeper with the cage because
> it
> was very near the point where the hole would be enlarged.
>
> I took a look at my QB wings and noticed that the TE skin has no gap -
> except near the edges, where I *can* get a piece of paper in there a
> bit.
>
> Again, the paper goes in about 1/8" - maybe halfway to where the rivet
> is.
> I think the irregularities (some areas tigher than others) are due more
> to
> small variations in alignment than differences in the countersinking.
>
> Is this normal, or Ok? If you've built a HS lately, did you notice
> this?
> Am I being a bit anal or am I right to wonder about this? Should I risk
> countersinking a bit deeper, on the areas with a bit of gap?
>
> Paul
> 9A QB #1176
>
> P.S. I *did* end up completely drilling out and bending one of those
> problem
> ribs of earlier in the week. I'm much happier with the
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
One suggestion for Monokote:
Top Flight makes clear Monokote that doesn't have any
pigment in the adhesive (at least they did 20 years
ago, when I was really into models). This way, if any
adhesive gets onto the plexi, at least it's clear and
won't be very visible...
I know for a fact that Aerovironment uses Monokote or
similar coverings to cover some of their molds that
they shape from foam, so this concept should work just
fine.
Skylor
RV-8QB
Under Construction
--- Dave Nellis wrote:
>
>
> Randy,
>
> Monokote is a plastic film used to cover model
> aircraft. It is heatshrinkable and has a heat
> activated adhesive which is also the pigment.
>
> First off, DO NOT adhere Monokote to plexi!!!!! I
> have just started my project and I am not totally
> familiar with the canopy area. After reading the
> posts regarding this, I was thinking that their was
> an
> area on the fuselage at the canopy that was used as
> a
> mold. I would only attach Monokote to bare metal or
> to a surface that is NOT reactive to acetone or dope
> thinner. Do not under any circumstances use acetone
> or dope thinner on plexi.
>
> If Monokote is the way you want to go, consider the
> following. Buy a Monokote iron from a hobby shop,
> about $20. Follow the directions therein. When
> attaching, only seal the edges down. When shrinking
> the rest, do not press down on the iron. Let the
> weight of the iron do the work. Shrink the Monokote
> till all wrinkles are gone. Make your layups with
> suitable mold release products.
>
> Upon removal, you will find some of the Monokote
> will
> have adhered to sealed edge areas and quite possibly
> the center as well. Use acetone or dope thinner in
> a
> clean rag with proper ventilation and safety
> equipment
> to remove the adhered Monokote.
>
> You will find the inside of your lamination to be
> glass smooth which I would lightly sand to break the
> glaze. Use
>
> your favorite adhesive to attach the skirt to
> the canopy.
>
> I have used Monokote to cover model aircraft for 30
> years and for mold making because it makes a smooth
> surface without a great deal of work.
>
> One last thought, if you put Monokote on the plexi,
> only put it on the area that would be under the
> skirt.
> To remove it from the plexi, use a small orbital
> sander with a fine grit paper. I am guessing that
> you
> would need to rough this surface up anyways. I
> re-iterate, do not use solvents on the plexi.
>
> Dave
>
>
> --- Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Guys, the Monokote idea might just work well, and
> I
> > have a couple of rolls
> > laying around. What is Monokote actually made of,
> > and is there a chance that
> > epoxy resin won't stick to it? Also, how well can
> > you control what/where it
> > adheres? And lastly, how tough is it to get off,
> the
> > plexi in particular?
> >
> > Anyone have more experience with it?
> >
> > Randy
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Kyle,
> > >
> > > I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts
> to
> > > expand on this.
> > >
> > > Monokote has a very glossy finish. The resin
> may
> > > still stick to the Monokote. Use mold release
> wax
> > on
> > > the Monokote followed with PVA mold release.
> > Spray
> > > multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote.
> > PVA
> > > has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the
> > wax.
> > > Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading.
>
> > When
> > > finished, the the piece will pop off the
> Monokote
> > much
> > > easier.
> > >
> > > Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on
> > Monokote.
> > > Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is
> > reactive
> > > to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe
> the
> > > surface clean. Obviously, use proper
> ventilation
> > and
> > > protective safety gear.
> > >
> > > BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol. Any good
> > fiberglass
> > > supplier will stock this item.
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > >
> > > --- Kyle Boatright
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between
> the
> > >> canopy and fuselage. My
> > >> cardboard of preference (from making the
> > empennage
> > >> fairing years ago) comes
> > >> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...
> > >>
> > >> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing
> > tape,
> > >> and volia, female
> > >> mold...
> > >>
> > >> Alternately, you could get yourself some
> Monokote
> > or
> > >> similar shrink film,
> > >> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the
> plexi
> > >> and fuselage, and shrink
> > >> the stuff into the shape you want. Might even
> > work.
> > >> (Note- put a layer of
> > >> packing tape between the monokote and your
> > canopy,
> > >> or risk color
> > >> transfer)...
> > >>
> > >> KB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> > Admin.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
January 22, 2006 - February 02, 2006
RV-Archive.digest.vol-rq