RV-Archive.digest.vol-rr
February 02, 2006 - February 22, 2006
>
=== message truncated ==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CYL high temp |
Kelly,
Actually, John Deakin suggests that 420F should be the
upper limit of CHT's, with the engine monitor alarm
set to 400F. 380F should be the cruise target
maximium.
See the text that I attached below...
Skylor Piper
RV-8QB Under Construction
--- Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> I'm not sure the basis of your temp recommendations.
> The best
> recommendations I know come from Advanced Pilot
> Seminars, where they
> have more data to back their recommendations than
> anyone. Oil okay.
> CHT, there is no minimum temp for max life, that is
> an OWT.
> Maximum for any flight phase, including climb should
> be 400F.\
> EGT, for normally aspirated, there is no maximum,
> especially none for
> maximum life, but much over 1500 is unlikely.
> Turbos, totally different,
> they do have TIT maximums. What matters is all
> cylinders peaking as
> close to each other, in terms of fuel flow, not
> temp. You are only
> looking for the peak on each cylinder, not an
> absolute temperature.
> You are totally incorrect about why #3 on an O-360
> or IO-360 runs
> hottest. Has very little to do with mixture, and if
> it were leanest, it
> would only be hottest on the rich side of peak,
> where you don't want to
> be anyway. #3 runs hottest because of the way
> Lycoming designed the head
> casting to have NO cooling fins on the back side of
> #3 (and front #2).
> If the baffling is tight against the cylinder head,
> it will run 30-50
> degrees hotter than if you leave a 1/8" to 1/4" gap
> for air to get through.
> KM
> A&P
>
Grads,
Some of you may be getting a little too concerned over
CHT "limits," and while that won't harm your engine,
it may not allow you to get all the power you want.
A very well-informed person wrote recently:
Oversimplified, TCM set a redline around 460 degrees
and knowledgeable folks at Ada Oklahoma, using highly
instrumented engines have determined that 380 is a
safer maximum.
Not quite true. We're running into this a lot, which
means we may have been "too successful."
460F is a common TCM redline for CHT, and 500F is
common for Lycomings. We have LOTS of data that
suggest engines that go to those temperatures for a
very short period of time suffer little or no harm
from that specific event in the short term, IF
PROMPTLY CONTROLLED and brought right back down. We
also have data that suggests that any engine that goes
beyond those CHTs for even a short period of time WILL
suffer damage, often catastrophic damage. George
Braly has put hundreds of hours of detonation on the
test-stand engines without hurting them, some of it
very, very ugly, without damage. The secret to that
is inducing the detonation, recording the data, then
getting OUT of the detonation before the CHTs exceed
the factory limits. Maybe this is what the factories
had in mind??
Engines operated often and/or for long periods just
barely within those factory limits probably suffer
long-term damage that greatly reduces TBO and
reliability. We think those limits are much too high
for those reasons. TCM and Lycoming obviously agree,
for they have verbiage in many of the manuals about
"Maximum recommended CHT," and similar, but the
numbers vary, sometimes even within the same manual!
Where to set "reasonable" limits? Where to run?
I have personally seen two engines that will do what
we call a "thermal runaway" when the CHT is
deliberately run up to the high 420s. My old IO-520
was like this, and I demonstrated it many, many times.
Set the power and mixture to run 425F, no problem.
Change the mixture slightly (lean it more if LOP,
enrich it if ROP), and the CHT comes right down. 427,
the same. Just above that, 428, 429, 430 or so, and
the CHT would not stabilize there, it would keep on
ticking up, degree by degree, very slowly increasing
in rate of increase. Tweak the mixture as for the
slightly lower CHTs, and there is no effect, it just
keeps on rising, very slowly at first, then faster.
All the data we have suggests that will continue right
on past the factory redline, and well into the 500+
range, with damage. It takes a LARGE change in
mixture or MP to stop this "runaway."
We think that's from the usual uneven cooling around
the cylinders. The hottest parts of the cylinder
weaken a bit somewhere north of 420F, and it goes very
slightly out of round. The piston remains round, and
that starts a "scuffing" on the narrow part of the
cylinder, increasing the friction, and the heat,
becoming a self-feeding event.
We've not seen that happen when the CHT is controlled
below 420, except when there is a clear cut case of
preignition.
This is the basis of the GAMI/TAT/APS "limit" of 420F
on all these engines. Some may run happily at higher
CHTs, and heck, some engines we don't know about may
not even do the runaway anywhere near 420F! But 420F
makes a pretty decent upper limit, above which we
strongly suggest the pilots DO SOMETHING RIGHT NOW TO
GET IT BACK DOWN.
We take that a step further, and say that if you never
want to run above 420F, then it's probably a good idea
to set the engine monitor to alarm at 400F, giving
lots of time to spot it, figure it out, then take
action.
Now, if you try and run 399 or a bit less, you'll have
constant nuisance warnings from the 400F alarm, and
you'll be come so accustomed to it, you'll sooner or
later stop paying attention to it, and you may not
even hear it when it blows for real. So finally, the
crux of the matter, we say that when you're
controlling the mixture for cruise, use 380F as a
TARGET (370 is fine, 399 is fine). It also happens to
be a CHT where we're comfortable with the ICP
(Internal Combustion Pressure) and thetaPP (the angle
at which peak pressure occurs) in most of these
engines. The big TIO-540, and the TSIO engines are on
the hairy edge there, but it's still a decent set of
numbers.
Trouble is, folks take that 380, figure it's "The
Limit," and start adding a buffer to it. Not our
intention, we've ALREADY put the "buffers" in place!
Never allow the CHT to exceed 420F.
Set your monitor to alarm at 400F
Use 380F as a "target" for "Go Fast Mode."
Oh, and while I'm at it, feel comfortable running
1650F on your TIT (if you have a turbo) all day long,
that one is very conservative already!
Best...
John Deakin
Fly-Bye-Knight Press http://www.flybyeknightpress.com
Advanced Pilot Seminars http://www.advancedpilot.com
Index to all columns:
http://www.avweb.com/news/columns/182146-1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross S" <rv7maker(at)hotmail.com> |
Dan,
I put one in a 7 and I used the vans 200 HP Angle valve firewall forward
kit. The exhause fit great. As far as climb goes, I had mine to 22,000
feet and it was still going strong.
-Ross
>From: "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle(at)hq.InclineSoftworks.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "dick martin" ,
>Subject: RV-List: IO390
>Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 21:29:51 -0800
>
>
>
>I am thinking about the IO390 for my RV8.
>
>
>Did you have any trouble adapting the IO390 to the RV8. Did the cowling
>fit as-is? What did you do for exhaust? What about ignition? I am
>thinking FADEC would be cool, but don't know the issues here. What
>real performance do you see in cruise with the ACI prop? (and
>conditions)
>
>
>Finally, what about insurance? Technically, the 390 is more HP than
>Vans recommends. Did your insurance carrier care? I live in Sierra
>Nevadas - so climb is always welcome. (We expect to have portable O2 in
>the plane most of the time).
>
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Dan Beadle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
Tell him where you got the engine Ross :)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ross S
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 2:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: IO390
Dan,
I put one in a 7 and I used the vans 200 HP Angle valve firewall forward
kit. The exhause fit great. As far as climb goes, I had mine to
22,000
feet and it was still going strong.
-Ross
>From: "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle(at)hq.InclineSoftworks.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "dick martin" ,
>Subject: RV-List: IO390
>Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 21:29:51 -0800
>
>
>
>I am thinking about the IO390 for my RV8.
>
>
>Did you have any trouble adapting the IO390 to the RV8. Did the
cowling
>fit as-is? What did you do for exhaust? What about ignition? I am
>thinking FADEC would be cool, but don't know the issues here. What
>real performance do you see in cruise with the ACI prop? (and
>conditions)
>
>
>Finally, what about insurance? Technically, the 390 is more HP than
>Vans recommends. Did your insurance carrier care? I live in Sierra
>Nevadas - so climb is always welcome. (We expect to have portable O2
in
>the plane most of the time).
>
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Dan Beadle
>
>
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how
to
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
How does the 390 compare to the 360 regarding RPM restrictions?
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 02/02/2006 12:22:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
BPA(at)bpaengines.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "BPA"
Tell him where you got the engine Ross :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
Limiting RPM restriction is the same at 2700 RPM full throttle. Check
out Marc Cooks AvWeb article he wrote about the engine. Pretty good
reading...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: IO390
How does the 390 compare to the 360 regarding RPM restrictions?
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 02/02/2006 12:22:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
BPA(at)bpaengines.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "BPA"
Tell him where you got the engine Ross :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
Randy,
My memory from RC days tells me that Monokote is made from Mylar.
Another thing.........As you probably know, when you shrink it the profile will
be that of a straight lines between two points. In other words, unless all points
on the perimeter of the Monokote are in the same flat plane the surface will
be a compound curve. The canopy skirts on an RV-3 do not appear to be a flat.
Think of what Monokote looks like on an unsheeted RC wing with the recessed
areas between the ribs.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
Asked a different way.
Is the 390 a counterweighted crankshaft engine?
Or, as a non-counterweighted crankshaft engine, are there mid range RPM
restrictions similar to the non-counterweighted crankshaft 360 engine?
Jim
In a message dated 02/02/2006 1:32:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
BPA(at)bpaengines.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "BPA"
Limiting RPM restriction is the same at 2700 RPM full throttle. Check
out Marc Cooks AvWeb article he wrote about the engine. Pretty good
reading...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> |
| Subject: | Build time, include helpers ? |
When I get assistant, bucking rivets ect, on the plane .
Do I include their time also in the build time ?
Thanks,
Dan
-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ADIZ, one more time with feeling |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
One more time. As tired as we are of the issue, we still need to make
our voice heard. Please consider one final submittal of you warmest
thoughts on the Washington ADIZ, which, after extension of the comment
period, is about to close.
http://www.aopa.org/adizalert/
Politicians respond to only two things; money and voters. Please don't
send them any more money but let them know we vote.
Chuck Jensen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
Yes, the IO-390 is counterweighted. Sorry I missed real question.
Allen
BPE, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: IO390
Asked a different way.
Is the 390 a counterweighted crankshaft engine?
Or, as a non-counterweighted crankshaft engine, are there mid range RPM
restrictions similar to the non-counterweighted crankshaft 360 engine?
Jim
In a message dated 02/02/2006 1:32:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
BPA(at)bpaengines.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "BPA"
Limiting RPM restriction is the same at 2700 RPM full throttle. Check
out Marc Cooks AvWeb article he wrote about the engine. Pretty good
reading...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Build time, include helpers ? |
Dan,
I don't know of any official requirement to record build time at all. A
"builder's log" is usually used as proof that an individual is the actual
builder and could take just about any form you like. As to recording
assistant time I would think it's your choice.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan" <dan(at)rdan.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: Build time, include helpers ?
>
> When I get assistant, bucking rivets ect, on the plane .
> Do I include their time also in the build time ?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan
> -8
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
Randy...
Monokote and all the other model coverings are polyester film or woven polyester
fiber. Polyester resin will stick to the film but will not bond to it. Definitely
use mold release. There are also clear films available that are used
as commercial masking film. Some of these I believe are Mylar.
Hope this helps...
Chris Stone
Newberg, OR
2x RV8
-----Original Message-----
>From: Randy Lervold <randy(at)romeolima.com>
>Sent: Feb 1, 2006 6:37 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch
>
>
>Guys, the Monokote idea might just work well, and I have a couple of rolls
>laying around. What is Monokote actually made of, and is there a chance that
>epoxy resin won't stick to it? Also, how well can you control what/where it
>adheres? And lastly, how tough is it to get off, the plexi in particular?
>
>Anyone have more experience with it?
>
>Randy
>
>
>>
>> Kyle,
>>
>> I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts to
>> expand on this.
>>
>> Monokote has a very glossy finish. The resin may
>> still stick to the Monokote. Use mold release wax on
>> the Monokote followed with PVA mold release. Spray
>> multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote. PVA
>> has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the wax.
>> Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading. When
>> finished, the the piece will pop off the Monokote much
>> easier.
>>
>> Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on Monokote.
>> Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is reactive
>> to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe the
>> surface clean. Obviously, use proper ventilation and
>> protective safety gear.
>>
>> BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol. Any good fiberglass
>> supplier will stock this item.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> --- Kyle Boatright wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the
>>> canopy and fuselage. My
>>> cardboard of preference (from making the empennage
>>> fairing years ago) comes
>>> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...
>>>
>>> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing tape,
>>> and volia, female
>>> mold...
>>>
>>> Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote or
>>> similar shrink film,
>>> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi
>>> and fuselage, and shrink
>>> the stuff into the shape you want. Might even work.
>>> (Note- put a layer of
>>> packing tape between the monokote and your canopy,
>>> or risk color
>>> transfer)...
>>>
>>> KB
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Build time, include helpers ? |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
FWIW, I haven't been. So far, everything I've had help with I *could*
do myself, though it'd be considerably more ackward in some cases
(bucking the HS middle nose ribs, for example).
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 11:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Build time, include helpers ?
When I get assistant, bucking rivets ect, on the plane .
Do I include their time also in the build time ?
Thanks,
Dan
-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <dan.beadle(at)inclinesoftworks.com> |
| Subject: | Build time, include helpers ? |
SO far, I have been able to buck everything myself. There are only a couple
places where I really needed an assistant - the biggest being supporting the
skins during dimpling (and, I know: I could have rearranged my bench to
support them for single person operation).
As for me, when I do have the help of an assistant, I include the time. I
figure we go 50% faster with two people but make 80% fewer mistakes. Bottom
line, I am about done with the empennage at 160 hours (including helpers).
Help accounted for about 30-40 hours of that time.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Folbrecht, Paul
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 7:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Build time, include helpers ?
FWIW, I haven't been. So far, everything I've had help with I *could*
do myself, though it'd be considerably more ackward in some cases
(bucking the HS middle nose ribs, for example).
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 11:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Build time, include helpers ?
When I get assistant, bucking rivets ect, on the plane .
Do I include their time also in the build time ?
Thanks,
Dan
-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Build time-photographic |
My build history is simply photographic. Many key photos have date attached
via Post-It note or chalk board with build number included. Some may show
myself or rivet-bucking daughter holding or using appropriate tool. All
unique or special features and building solutions are likewise so
documented.
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wings on their way! |
| From: | "smittysrv" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
Boy, am I excited! The wings will shipped the first part of next week. How many
warm bodies do I need to help lug the boxes into the garage (hangar)?
--------
Smittys RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=9361#9361
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
> Monokote and all the other model coverings are polyester film or woven
> polyester fiber. Polyester resin will stick to the film but will not bond
> to it. Definitely use mold release. There are also clear films available
> that are used as commercial masking film. Some of these I believe are
> Mylar.
>
> Hope this helps...
>
> Chris Stone
> Newberg, OR
> 2x RV8
Chris (or anyone), will epoxy stick to it? I'll be laying up with West
Systems.
Thanks,
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "REHughes" <hawk(at)digisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
Chris,
Just a note for people who might be contemplating using polyester resin for
their windshield and canopy fairings... there are many entries in the
archives warning of damage to the canopy plastic when in contact with even
tiny amounts of the polyester resin components, or even the fumes. It would
seem to be much safer to use epoxy based systems in these areas.
Hawkeye Hughes
Polson MT Skyote, RV-3
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Stone" <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch
>
> Randy...
>
> Monokote and all the other model coverings are polyester film or woven
> polyester fiber. Polyester resin will stick to the film but will not bond
> to it. Definitely use mold release. There are also clear films available
> that are used as commercial masking film. Some of these I believe are
> Mylar.
>
> Hope this helps...
>
> Chris Stone
> Newberg, OR
> 2x RV8
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Randy Lervold <randy(at)romeolima.com>
>>Sent: Feb 1, 2006 6:37 AM
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch
>>
>>
>>Guys, the Monokote idea might just work well, and I have a couple of rolls
>>laying around. What is Monokote actually made of, and is there a chance
>>that
>>epoxy resin won't stick to it? Also, how well can you control what/where
>>it
>>adheres? And lastly, how tough is it to get off, the plexi in particular?
>>
>>Anyone have more experience with it?
>>
>>Randy
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Kyle,
>>>
>>> I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts to
>>> expand on this.
>>>
>>> Monokote has a very glossy finish. The resin may
>>> still stick to the Monokote. Use mold release wax on
>>> the Monokote followed with PVA mold release. Spray
>>> multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote. PVA
>>> has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the wax.
>>> Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading. When
>>> finished, the the piece will pop off the Monokote much
>>> easier.
>>>
>>> Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on Monokote.
>>> Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is reactive
>>> to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe the
>>> surface clean. Obviously, use proper ventilation and
>>> protective safety gear.
>>>
>>> BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol. Any good fiberglass
>>> supplier will stock this item.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>>
>>> --- Kyle Boatright wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the
>>>> canopy and fuselage. My
>>>> cardboard of preference (from making the empennage
>>>> fairing years ago) comes
>>>> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...
>>>>
>>>> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing tape,
>>>> and volia, female
>>>> mold...
>>>>
>>>> Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote or
>>>> similar shrink film,
>>>> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi
>>>> and fuselage, and shrink
>>>> the stuff into the shape you want. Might even work.
>>>> (Note- put a layer of
>>>> packing tape between the monokote and your canopy,
>>>> or risk color
>>>> transfer)...
>>>>
>>>> KB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Polyester resins typical have styrene as a solvent carrier. Styrene
will melt plexiglass. Epoxies do not have styrene content.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of REHughes
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch
Chris,
Just a note for people who might be contemplating using polyester resin
for
their windshield and canopy fairings... there are many entries in the
archives warning of damage to the canopy plastic when in contact with
even
tiny amounts of the polyester resin components, or even the fumes. It
would
seem to be much safer to use epoxy based systems in these areas.
Hawkeye Hughes
Polson MT Skyote, RV-3
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Stone" <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch
>
> Randy...
>
> Monokote and all the other model coverings are polyester film or woven
> polyester fiber. Polyester resin will stick to the film but will not
bond
> to it. Definitely use mold release. There are also clear films
available
> that are used as commercial masking film. Some of these I believe are
> Mylar.
>
> Hope this helps...
>
> Chris Stone
> Newberg, OR
> 2x RV8
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Randy Lervold <randy(at)romeolima.com>
>>Sent: Feb 1, 2006 6:37 AM
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch
>>
>>
>>Guys, the Monokote idea might just work well, and I have a couple of
rolls
>>laying around. What is Monokote actually made of, and is there a
chance
>>that
>>epoxy resin won't stick to it? Also, how well can you control
what/where
>>it
>>adheres? And lastly, how tough is it to get off, the plexi in
particular?
>>
>>Anyone have more experience with it?
>>
>>Randy
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Kyle,
>>>
>>> I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts to
>>> expand on this.
>>>
>>> Monokote has a very glossy finish. The resin may
>>> still stick to the Monokote. Use mold release wax on
>>> the Monokote followed with PVA mold release. Spray
>>> multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote. PVA
>>> has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the wax.
>>> Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading. When
>>> finished, the the piece will pop off the Monokote much
>>> easier.
>>>
>>> Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on Monokote.
>>> Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is reactive
>>> to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe the
>>> surface clean. Obviously, use proper ventilation and
>>> protective safety gear.
>>>
>>> BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol. Any good fiberglass
>>> supplier will stock this item.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>>
>>> --- Kyle Boatright wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the
>>>> canopy and fuselage. My
>>>> cardboard of preference (from making the empennage
>>>> fairing years ago) comes
>>>> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...
>>>>
>>>> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing tape,
>>>> and volia, female
>>>> mold...
>>>>
>>>> Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote or
>>>> similar shrink film,
>>>> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi
>>>> and fuselage, and shrink
>>>> the stuff into the shape you want. Might even work.
>>>> (Note- put a layer of
>>>> packing tape between the monokote and your canopy,
>>>> or risk color
>>>> transfer)...
>>>>
>>>> KB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
Can anyone refer me to the guys who make the aviation
friendly survival kits I've seen at Oshkosh? I seem
to remember a great website that has many light weight
options.
Thanks.
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bert Murillo <bertrv6(at)gmail.com> |
Hello:
Would like to know, how to improve or what is necessary to do, so that
the Carb Heat in my rv6a, will work?
It does not show any drop on RPM, nor even after flying for 30 minutes...
I know when landing, is very hot inside.
I have not cover the gaps, that exist, on each side of the Hose tube's
base,
that is the small, square base, that one rivet to the top of the Air box..
this small
base is not sealed all around. Is hard to explain, but is the unit that
comes from
Van's.
I want to see at least 30 rpms drop... when applied heat.... Same as in my
old
Cherokee 140, same engine I have now 0320 150HP
Thanks,
Bert
do not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dsvs(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Survival Kit |
www.aeromedix.com has some nice survival kits. I'm not sure that these are the kits you have seem at OSH, but they are intended for use in AC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Hi Bert:
Try installing a new carbheat muff. I have one that I got from Wicks, part
number EC100-020, installed on my 6A. I am close to my first test flights,
but those who have installed this muff report improved carbheat perfomance.
It is very easy to install. Fits very well on the forward crossover pipe.
Hope this helps
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Getting very close
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Murillo" <bertrv6(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 5:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Carb heat
>
> Hello:
>
> Would like to know, how to improve or what is necessary to do, so that
> the Carb Heat in my rv6a, will work?
>
> It does not show any drop on RPM, nor even after flying for 30 minutes...
> I know when landing, is very hot inside.
>
> I have not cover the gaps, that exist, on each side of the Hose tube's
> base,
> that is the small, square base, that one rivet to the top of the Air
> box..
> this small
> base is not sealed all around. Is hard to explain, but is the unit that
> comes from
> Van's.
>
> I want to see at least 30 rpms drop... when applied heat.... Same as in
> my
> old
> Cherokee 140, same engine I have now 0320 150HP
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bert
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
Here is something else. Polyester hardens and appears
to cure, but it never fully cures. It is always
chemically active. With age, polyester will change
shape as it cures. Heat will accelerate this curing
and shape changing. I have used polyester in model
aircraft cowls and have noticed flared edges and once
flat surfaces are now wavy. I now only use epoxy for
any layup.
Dave Nellis
--- REHughes wrote:
>
>
> Chris,
> Just a note for people who might be contemplating
> using polyester resin for
> their windshield and canopy fairings... there are
> many entries in the
> archives warning of damage to the canopy plastic
> when in contact with even
> tiny amounts of the polyester resin components, or
> even the fumes. It would
> seem to be much safer to use epoxy based systems in
> these areas.
>
> Hawkeye Hughes
> Polson MT Skyote, RV-3
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Christopher Stone" <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 8:05 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from
> scratch
>
>
>
> >
> > Randy...
> >
> > Monokote and all the other model coverings are
> polyester film or woven
> > polyester fiber. Polyester resin will stick to
> the film but will not bond
> > to it. Definitely use mold release. There are
> also clear films available
> > that are used as commercial masking film. Some of
> these I believe are
> > Mylar.
> >
> > Hope this helps...
> >
> > Chris Stone
> > Newberg, OR
> > 2x RV8
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> >>From: Randy Lervold <randy(at)romeolima.com>
> >>Sent: Feb 1, 2006 6:37 AM
> >>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from
> scratch
> >>
>
> >>
> >>Guys, the Monokote idea might just work well, and
> I have a couple of rolls
> >>laying around. What is Monokote actually made of,
> and is there a chance
> >>that
> >>epoxy resin won't stick to it? Also, how well can
> you control what/where
> >>it
> >>adheres? And lastly, how tough is it to get off,
> the plexi in particular?
> >>
> >>Anyone have more experience with it?
> >>
> >>Randy
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
> >>>
> >>> Kyle,
> >>>
> >>> I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts
> to
> >>> expand on this.
> >>>
> >>> Monokote has a very glossy finish. The resin
> may
> >>> still stick to the Monokote. Use mold release
> wax on
> >>> the Monokote followed with PVA mold release.
> Spray
> >>> multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote.
> PVA
> >>> has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the
> wax.
> >>> Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading.
> When
> >>> finished, the the piece will pop off the
> Monokote much
> >>> easier.
> >>>
> >>> Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on
> Monokote.
> >>> Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is
> reactive
> >>> to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe
> the
> >>> surface clean. Obviously, use proper
> ventilation and
> >>> protective safety gear.
> >>>
> >>> BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol. Any good
> fiberglass
> >>> supplier will stock this item.
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --- Kyle Boatright
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between
> the
> >>>> canopy and fuselage. My
> >>>> cardboard of preference (from making the
> empennage
> >>>> fairing years ago) comes
> >>>> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...
> >>>>
> >>>> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing
> tape,
> >>>> and volia, female
> >>>> mold...
> >>>>
> >>>> Alternately, you could get yourself some
> Monokote or
> >>>> similar shrink film,
> >>>> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the
> plexi
> >>>> and fuselage, and shrink
> >>>> the stuff into the shape you want. Might even
> work.
> >>>> (Note- put a layer of
> >>>> packing tape between the monokote and your
> canopy,
> >>>> or risk color
> >>>> transfer)...
> >>>>
> >>>> KB
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
=== message truncated ==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
Phoey!!! Polyester will continue to shrink, vynalester will not, epoxy fumes
can kill you.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Nellis
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 11:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch
Here is something else. Polyester hardens and appears
to cure, but it never fully cures. It is always
chemically active. With age, polyester will change
shape as it cures. Heat will accelerate this curing
and shape changing. I have used polyester in model
aircraft cowls and have noticed flared edges and once
flat surfaces are now wavy. I now only use epoxy for
any layup.
Dave Nellis
--- REHughes wrote:
>
>
> Chris,
> Just a note for people who might be contemplating
> using polyester resin for
> their windshield and canopy fairings... there are
> many entries in the
> archives warning of damage to the canopy plastic
> when in contact with even
> tiny amounts of the polyester resin components, or
> even the fumes. It would
> seem to be much safer to use epoxy based systems in
> these areas.
>
> Hawkeye Hughes
> Polson MT Skyote, RV-3
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Christopher Stone" <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 8:05 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from
> scratch
>
>
>
> >
> > Randy...
> >
> > Monokote and all the other model coverings are
> polyester film or woven
> > polyester fiber. Polyester resin will stick to
> the film but will not bond
> > to it. Definitely use mold release. There are
> also clear films available
> > that are used as commercial masking film. Some of
> these I believe are
> > Mylar.
> >
> > Hope this helps...
> >
> > Chris Stone
> > Newberg, OR
> > 2x RV8
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> >>From: Randy Lervold <randy(at)romeolima.com>
> >>Sent: Feb 1, 2006 6:37 AM
> >>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from
> scratch
> >>
>
> >>
> >>Guys, the Monokote idea might just work well, and
> I have a couple of rolls
> >>laying around. What is Monokote actually made of,
> and is there a chance
> >>that
> >>epoxy resin won't stick to it? Also, how well can
> you control what/where
> >>it
> >>adheres? And lastly, how tough is it to get off,
> the plexi in particular?
> >>
> >>Anyone have more experience with it?
> >>
> >>Randy
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
> >>>
> >>> Kyle,
> >>>
> >>> I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts
> to
> >>> expand on this.
> >>>
> >>> Monokote has a very glossy finish. The resin
> may
> >>> still stick to the Monokote. Use mold release
> wax on
> >>> the Monokote followed with PVA mold release.
> Spray
> >>> multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote.
> PVA
> >>> has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the
> wax.
> >>> Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading.
> When
> >>> finished, the the piece will pop off the
> Monokote much
> >>> easier.
> >>>
> >>> Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on
> Monokote.
> >>> Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is
> reactive
> >>> to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe
> the
> >>> surface clean. Obviously, use proper
> ventilation and
> >>> protective safety gear.
> >>>
> >>> BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol. Any good
> fiberglass
> >>> supplier will stock this item.
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> --- Kyle Boatright
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between
> the
> >>>> canopy and fuselage. My
> >>>> cardboard of preference (from making the
> empennage
> >>>> fairing years ago) comes
> >>>> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...
> >>>>
> >>>> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing
> tape,
> >>>> and volia, female
> >>>> mold...
> >>>>
> >>>> Alternately, you could get yourself some
> Monokote or
> >>>> similar shrink film,
> >>>> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the
> plexi
> >>>> and fuselage, and shrink
> >>>> the stuff into the shape you want. Might even
> work.
> >>>> (Note- put a layer of
> >>>> packing tape between the monokote and your
> canopy,
> >>>> or risk color
> >>>> transfer)...
> >>>>
> >>>> KB
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
=== message truncated ==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Wings on their way! |
It only took one warm body to unload and get mine into the garage. No big
deal, just don't drop it.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9 N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of smittysrv
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 10:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wings on their way!
Boy, am I excited! The wings will shipped the first part of next week. How
many warm bodies do I need to help lug the boxes into the garage (hangar)?
--------
Smittys RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=9361#9361
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Build time, include helpers ? |
When a kit airplane is reviewed by the FAA for compliance to the 51 percent rule,
it is not building time that qualifies it. It is the task to complete the airplane.
That is why credit is given for building the ribs (for example) when
only one rib is fabricated by the "builder" of the airplane.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
N118DE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ameri-King AK-450 ELT - Remote Battery Included? |
It is included, but must be changed periodically (I believe mine says
every five years). If you have it in an inaccessible or hard to reach
place you might want to rethink the location.
Dick Tasker
Tim Olson wrote:
>
>Can anyone tell me if the Lithium battery is included already in the
>remote on the AK-450 ELT?
>
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re. AK 450 Remote Battery |
Tim:
I didn't have to get a battery for the remote with my AK-450. Just the D
cells.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | firesleeved hoses and chafing |
I am making oil and fuel hoses for my RV-6A using steel braided teflon
hose. Is it OK for a firesleeved hose to touch another firesleeved
hose? How about a firesleeved hose touching the engine mount or the
firewall?
In other words is the firesleeve by itself good enough chafing
protection or should I anchor clamp the hoses down in such a way that
they can' touch anything?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sherwin williams GBP-988 question. |
| From: | David Karlsberg <claypride(at)hotmail.com> |
Okay so I have decided to prime the inside of my plane with GBP-988. I
started priming the inner parts of the HS and I noticed that sometimes the
GBP-988 goes on really smooth and on other surfaces goes on real rough and
comes out feeling like sand paper. I am using the aerosol cans, if that
matters. I am also cleaning every part with MEK but not scouring the parts
with a scotch bright pad. I figure it is best to keep the alcad.
1. Does it matter that some faces of the part is smooth and some is rough?
2. How much of this stuff do I use? I usually have to spray every part
twice to get all the pieces covered. I have already gone through a can just
on the HS.
3. Sometimes the the primer goes on lighter grey and sometimes it goes on
darker. What's up with that?
4. Am I supposed to shake the can before I spray?
Thanks,
David
PS. I know some of you guys are sensitive about priming questions. I
checked the archives couldn't find anything. Here is my white flag. No
war!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Mikus" <cflyer(at)sopris.net> |
I just recently got some seat heating elements for my RV8 and thought others may be interested in this info. These are called Step warmfloor and are a self regulating plastic element that run on 12 volts. They make many different elements. The ones i got are 3" wide and draw 12 watts per foot. I plan to put them under a thin layer of foam at the top of my cushions. Their website is www.warmfloor.com. No fine wires to break or short out and no failure modes that i know of. I used this material to heat an entire house a few years ago and these people are great to deal with. Have not installed this in seats yet, but do not anticipate any problems. Tony
RV8qb Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sherwin williams GBP-988 question. |
----- Original Message -----
Subject: RV-List: Sherwin williams GBP-988 question.
>
> Okay so I have decided to prime the inside of my plane with GBP-988. I
> started priming the inner parts of the HS and I noticed that sometimes the
> GBP-988 goes on really smooth and on other surfaces goes on real rough and
> comes out feeling like sand paper. I am using the aerosol cans, if that
> matters. I am also cleaning every part with MEK but not scouring the
> parts
> with a scotch bright pad. I figure it is best to keep the alcad.
>
> 1. Does it matter that some faces of the part is smooth and some is
> rough?
You should apply and get a uniform smooth surface. Maybe you need practice.
Do not apply heavy coats. Several light coats would be better than a heavy
one.
>
> 2. How much of this stuff do I use? I usually have to spray every part
> twice to get all the pieces covered. I have already gone through a can
> just
> on the HS.
With proper preparation, clean by using soap and water with a scotch brite
pad will not remove the alclad although it will look to be scuffed up. This
primer is self etching so scotch briting is not really needed but it will
not harm the alclad if you do not over scrub. Rinse and allow to dry
completely. Follow with a solvent like MEK or lacquer thinner applied with
clean rag and wear gloves to keep your skin oils off the metal and allow it
to dry completely. PLEASE be aware that this primer requires a top coat of
something to give corrosion protection. Using only the primer without a top
coat is not preventing corrosion. Please see the directions on the can. If
you prime your whole plane with this product, you will go through several 12
can cases. This stuff is easy to work with and can be safely used to
temporarily protect parts that you remove the alclad from due to grinding or
dent removal. Such a surface would normally be on the exterior and be
refinished by priming and final painting at completion of the plane or
assembled part.
>
> 3. Sometimes the the primer goes on lighter grey and sometimes it goes on
> darker. What's up with that?
>
Be sure to see next question and answer.
> 4. Am I supposed to shake the can before I spray?
>
You got to be kidding right? Yes, shake it. Respect recommended
temperatures. I think you are pulling a fast one with this question but I
answered it just in case...
>
> Thanks,
> David
>
Indiana Larry,
"Please use the information and opinions I express with responsibility, and
at your own risk."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | aileron trimming by squeezing question |
Listers,
Need to fix a slightly heavy right wing on a new
rocket. Please correct me if I am wrong here.
Seems one should squeeze the trailing edge
of the light wing. Correct???
Thank you, Stewart Bergner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron trimming by squeezing question |
That's correct, Stewart. Gently squeeze the trailing edge aileron of the
light wing. I simply used the pliers with the wide lips with some cloth to
prevent scratching the paint. I would squeeze a small amount and then move
it down the full length of the aileron doing the same. Then I repeated the
process. Did it three times. I didn't want to distort the metal by trying
to squeeze it down all the way in one location the first time. Did just a
little bit each location before moving the plyers.
I did it on my right wing (Left wing heavy) and it complete corrected the
problem. I suggest to do it in stages so that it's not over done.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <RVer273sb(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 7:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: aileron trimming by squeezing question
>
> Listers,
> Need to fix a slightly heavy right wing on a new
> rocket. Please correct me if I am wrong here.
> Seems one should squeeze the trailing edge
> of the light wing. Correct???
> Thank you, Stewart Bergner
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron trimming by squeezing question |
On 5 Feb 2006, at 07:59, RVer273sb(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Need to fix a slightly heavy right wing on a new
> rocket. Please correct me if I am wrong here.
> Seems one should squeeze the trailing edge
> of the light wing. Correct???
> Thank you, Stewart Bergner
Van's has a useful document on this subject. It should be read
before you do anything, as there may be other causes for the heavy
wing, and you ideally would attack the root cause, rather than just
treat the symptoms:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Heavy.pdf
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Sherwin williams GBP-988 question. |
On 17:59:14 2006-02-04 David Karlsberg wrote:
> 2. How much of this stuff do I use? I usually have to spray every
> part twice to get all the pieces covered. I have already gone
> through a can just on the HS.
I'm on my second rattle can, and i'm not finished the empennage yet. And
i'm not priming the skins (other than the lines where the ribs contact
them). Full coverage on ribs and non-alclad parts, though.
A Sherwin-Williams rep that used to be a member of our flying club told me
that the best way to apply it is to put on two or three very light coats to
obtain the best coverage and adhesion. Almost a "dusting" of paint each
time. It's worked fine so far, and I haven't had the problem that some
others seem to with the paint sometimes flaking off. Prepping with
Sher-Wil-Clean, which is the recommended prep for this paint.
> 4. Am I supposed to shake the can before I spray?
You're supposed to read the directions on the can, which say to shake it
for something like two minutes after the ball comes free from the bottom of
the can. Before spraying. I shake the can between sprays too, just to be
sure. If you haven't been shaking it at all, that's why you're getting
uneven colour and texture in your results.
For what it's worth, i'll be switching to Marhyde when I finish the SW can
i'm using now. The people who have used both seem to agree that Marhyde
provides a tougher, more durable finish. Not so important on the inside of
your airplane once it's finished, perhaps, but it might be while you're
handling the parts during assembly.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sherwin williams GBP-988 question. |
> For what it's worth, i'll be switching to Marhyde when I finish the SW can
> i'm using now. The people who have used both seem to agree that Marhyde
> provides a tougher, more durable finish. Not so important on the inside
> of
> your airplane once it's finished, perhaps, but it might be while you're
> handling the parts during assembly.
>
> -Rob
FWIW, I started with a can of Marhyde (I like their products BTW) to use
when I needed to spritz a part and didn't want to mix up some primer to
spray. I bought a can of GBP when I needed another can on advice from
others on the list and like it better. That said, I'd buy a can of Marhyde
if there was some reason I couldn't get the GBP...
Dave B
RV6
B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | aileron trimming by squeezing question |
Stewart,
Here's a link to Van's instructions:
http://vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Heavy.pdf
Terry
Listers,
Need to fix a slightly heavy right wing on a new
rocket. Please correct me if I am wrong here.
Seems one should squeeze the trailing edge
of the light wing. Correct???
Thank you, Stewart Bergner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Richard,
Thanks, that helps a lot. Did you place the trim high on the
rudder, low on the rudder? (seems like I have see them on the lower
section below the horz. stab) Did you place it perpendicular to the
horizon or running along the trailing edge?
Thanks,
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerald Richardson <gerric(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Garmin GMA 346 audio panel |
Does anyone have a copy of the Garmin GMA 347 audio panel
installation and operational manual.
Also what experiences have you had with it.
Any comments on the duplex telephone interface
Thanks
Gerald Richardson
Medicine Hat, Alberta
Canada
--
02/04/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sherwin williams GBP-988 question. |
> For what it's worth, i'll be switching to Marhyde when I finish the SW can
> i'm using now. The people who have used both seem to agree that Marhyde
> provides a tougher, more durable finish.
Having used both products I'd agree with this assessment. But I prefer SEM
to them both in terms of both the finish it leaves and its durability. To
those that apply the primer without first Scothbriting the surface, no
question it does NOT adhere as well. Dip your Scotchbrite pad in your
solvent of choice when scuffing and you degrease at the same time. Here's my
two cents worth...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm#Primer
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GMA 346 audio panel |
See if this link works:
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/Downloads/howtogetagarminmanual.htm
>Does anyone have a copy of the Garmin GMA 347 audio panel
>installation and operational manual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
Robin,
I can't look at it right now but, I believe that I put the wedge about
midway on the rudder. The trailing edge of the wedge is flush with the
trailing edge of the rudder. I think that the actual position along the
trailing edge of the rudder is not important. I placed it where it
looked ok to me.
Regards,
Richard
Robin Marks wrote:
>
>Richard,
> Thanks, that helps a lot. Did you place the trim high on the
>rudder, low on the rudder? (seems like I have see them on the lower
>section below the horz. stab) Did you place it perpendicular to the
>horizon or running along the trailing edge?
>
>Thanks,
>Robin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor Mills" <millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Can anyone tell me anything about the electric 3 blade MT props as sold by Eggenfellner
?
I would like to find the Model # and any comments would be great.
Thanks.
Trevor Mills 80605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
> Can anyone tell me anything about the electric 3 blade MT props as sold by Eggenfellner
?
>
> I would like to find the Model # and any comments would be great.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Trevor Mills 80605
Hi Trevor,
I've got one. Not flying yet. It's a MTV-7. I have an
article with links and photos here:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050604180346524
If you search for MT Propeller on my website, you'll
find a couple of other articles discussing the installation.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
Randy et al...
The short answer is yes... But again it will not form a molecular bond only superficial
adhesive bond. I would still recommend a mold release agent.
cs
-----Original Message-----
>From: Randy Lervold <randy(at)romeolima.com>
>Sent: Feb 3, 2006 8:33 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch
>
>
>> Monokote and all the other model coverings are polyester film or woven
>> polyester fiber. Polyester resin will stick to the film but will not bond
>> to it. Definitely use mold release. There are also clear films available
>> that are used as commercial masking film. Some of these I believe are
>> Mylar.
>>
>> Hope this helps...
>>
>> Chris Stone
>> Newberg, OR
>> 2x RV8
>
>Chris (or anyone), will epoxy stick to it? I'll be laying up with West
>Systems.
>
>Thanks,
>Randy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com> |
Hi List
I am looking for the stop-to-stop travel distance of the RV-8 flap motor,
does anyone have this info at their fingertips?
Many thanks
Kevin Shannon
HR II under const
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | al.herron(at)Aerojet.com (Herron, Al) |
| Subject: | Re: Wings on their way! |
These are quick-build wings? A couple of reasonably healthy individuals
should suffice. If you're not unpacking the wings right away, you might do
what I did and attach some casters to the long, skinny side of the box so
you can easily move it around the shop till you're ready to unpack it.
Re: RV-List: Wings on their way!
These are quick-build wings? A couple of reasonably healthy individuals should
suffice. If you're not unpacking the wings right away, you might do what I did
and attach some casters to the long, skinny side of the box so you can easily
move it around the shop till you're ready to unpack it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Need some scrap plexiglass |
I am finally getting around to repairing a portion of my canopy that broke
when the wind blew it down. Unfortunately, I have long since gotten rid of
all my scrap Plexiglas.
Does anyone have any extra you could send me? I will of course pay for
shipping.
I need a that is mostly flat as it is going in the rear corner of a tip up
RV-6. 10"x4" should do it. one piece would be best but I may have to make
do with a couple of smaller pieces.
Thanks,
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
The MTV-7-C/183-51 72" dia. MT propeller is used, as well as the
MTV-7-C/187-129 74" dia. MT propeller.
MT propellers are normally specifically matched to the
engine/airframe/aircraft performance specified as a complete assembly that bolts
onto the
engine/cowl being used.
The RV standard spinner diameter is 13" with a cowl space (distance from hub
mounting surface to the front of the cowl) of 1 1/2".
(Van specifies 2 1/4" less the spinner flange distance and spinner to cowl
distance, which is 1 1/2".)
For the RV-8 Sam James Cowl, there is a 3 7/8" cowl spacing with the
standard 13" dia. spinner. MT propeller provides a bolt on propeller assembly
to
fit this cowl without a propeller extension. There is NO aerobatic restriction
on this engine/propeller combination.
Please contact me off the list for specific MT propeller information.
_jim(at)lessdrag.com_ (mailto:jim(at)lessdrag.com)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 02/05/2006 11:44:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trevor Mills"
Can anyone tell me anything about the electric 3 blade MT props as sold by
Eggenfellner ?
I would like to find the Model # and any comments would be great.
Thanks.
Trevor Mills 80605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | vhimsl(at)adelphia.net |
| Subject: | Re: Seat heaters |
Shopko is unloading seat heated car seat cushions for around $15.00.
Been testing them in my car for past month and they work fine.
Put one on the Front seat of My RV8 and it fits ok.
My opinion is that it is that rarity in aviation...good and cheap.
For @ $10.00 more you can get one that massages. I passed on that one.
They're cheap enough you can tear one apart and see what makes it tick, use it
as is (recommended), or whatever. Also when it breaks, you just toss it without
having to tear apart your seats.
Another reason one may want to shy away from permanently embedded seat heaters
is that I find it pretty hard to get in and out of the RV-8 without stepping on
the seat. Over time, even if careful, this could shorten, maybe literally, the
life of the embedded heater.
Regards,
Vince H.
rv8432 VSB Finish - Get'r done mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Have you considered rear heat?
It works!
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/index.htm
There is a link in there for how I installed rear heat in the RV-8 using
a muff and duct tube. My wife loves me for this. Yours will too.
Enjoy,
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
vhimsl(at)adelphia.net
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Seat heaters
Shopko is unloading seat heated car seat cushions for around $15.00.
Been testing them in my car for past month and they work fine.
Put one on the Front seat of My RV8 and it fits ok.
My opinion is that it is that rarity in aviation...good and cheap.
For @ $10.00 more you can get one that massages. I passed on that one.
They're cheap enough you can tear one apart and see what makes it tick,
use it as is (recommended), or whatever. Also when it breaks, you just
toss it without having to tear apart your seats.
Another reason one may want to shy away from permanently embedded seat
heaters is that I find it pretty hard to get in and out of the RV-8
without stepping on the seat. Over time, even if careful, this could
shorten, maybe literally, the life of the embedded heater.
Regards,
Vince H.
rv8432 VSB Finish - Get'r done mode
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Kevin,
My -8 flap motor stop-to-stop (flap full up to fully extended) is five
inches (5.000" plus/minus 0.010")
Build Well
Jack
N8VZ should issue this month
From: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 flap motor
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 08:37:33 -0800
RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Shannon"
Hi List
I am looking for the stop-to-stop travel distance of the RV-8 flap motor,
does anyone have this info at their fingertips?
Many thanks
Kevin Shannon
HR II under const
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron trimming by squeezing question |
>>
>> Listers,
>> Need to fix a slightly heavy right wing on a new
>> rocket. Please correct me if I am wrong here.
>> Seems one should squeeze the trailing edge
>> of the light wing. Correct???
>> Thank you, Stewart Bergner
>
You are correct the fix is to squeeze the light wing's aileron.
I have done this successfully. AND I did this very carefully. What others
have said here on the list is very true.
First, check all other things per the Van's document/instructions to see if
anything major is at fault. Then if that does not give you resolution, very
very very gently squeeze the light wing's aileron all across the length of
it. I mean squeeze it so you do not even think you are doing anything. Go
out and fly. If the wing is still heavy, tighten the adjusting tool about
1/128th of an inch. Resqueeze. Test fly. Keep doing this until you find
the right amount of squeeze. After I corrected the problem, I cannot even
see that I changed the aileron one tiny bit. It is very very suttle.
Indiana Larry, RV7 SunSeeker 80+ hours flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Diehl" <diehldon(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron trimming by squeezing question
>
> My fix for a slightly heavy right wing was an aileron trim tab.
> The "tab" is a wooden wedge from the hardware store, intended to
> secure the head to a sledge hammer.
> I bonded it on using double back tape, test flew it, trimmed it for
> neutral roll, painted it then bonded it with a dab or epoxy.
> It's on the underside of the left aileron, unobtrusive and completely
> effective.
> Later I installed Van's aileron trim kit and think I should have done
> that first.
>
> BTW, my fix for a half-ball yaw caused by my imperfect installation
> of gear leg fairings was to align the fairings using washers stacked
> to 1/8 inch between the trailing edge of the fairings and the bracket
> on the fuselage.
>
> Don Diehl
> RV-4, N28EW
> Bremerton WA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Aileron Squeezing and bracket re-locating |
Basically you move the hinge when squeezing the TE is not enough. For me I had
a very heavy right wing. I did the squeeze thing and it helped but not enough.
I then saw Dan's web site and notice what he did and it imediately made sense.
I measured the aileron gap to top wing skin, with the aileron in a neutral position.
The right wing, from the cockpit, was good. the left wing, the inner
hinge was lower by about .050. I moved the hinge .030 and it helped greatly, need
to change ity to the full .050.
Scott how would you know that the aileron brackets are not installed exactly
the same or in the proper position?
Good question. I am not sure.
I went through the "use the wing rib shape cutout made of plywood to hold the
aileron and flap in position" exercise on my RV-6A and I submit that one simply
cannot be precise using such a method.
You are correct.
Do you have some method of precisely locating both the bracket to the
aileron and then the aileron to the wing?
I finished building 2 years ago and dont remember the details exactly. There
was no rocket sicence involved when I did it.....I think I just put them in place
thinking it would be right.......if had to do it over again I would just be
more careful.
Do you also have a method of doing this on a finished airplane?
On a finished airplane just like Dan's web site shows.
And how do you know how much performance you lose by squeezing versus relocating
the hinge hole?
I know of no performance loss or gain.
Is it significant enough to be worth doing one over the other? I had not heard
of the "move the aileron hinge up or down" method of doing this until recently,
has Van's changed their mind about using the squeeze method and now recommends
using the "move the bracket method" or is there a way of deciding which method
to use?
The only time you move the bracket is when the squeeze method wont work. Van's
for legal reason will never approve of people doing this.
Scott
---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Lumpkin <tlump51(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | WW 200RV Prop RPM Restriction? |
I am considering purchasing a Whirlwind 200RV prop to replace my Hartzell on
an IO360. I am looking for a weight reduction and elimination of the 2000 -
2250 RPM restriction. I talked to Whirlwind today and the rep mentioned that
the prop designer "recommends" avoiding 2250 - 2300 RPM and this is identified
in the owner's manual.
Those of you using this prop, how are you handling this recommendation?
Thanks
Ted
Flying RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WW 200RV Prop RPM Restriction? |
It is a non issue.
Here is how to fly with restriction.
Since I have been flying HC-C2YK/F7666-4's with the same restriction I can tell
you it is no big deal. Going thru it or momentarily dwelling in it is not a
problem, even for metal props. It is continuous operation that's a problem.
So for operation you just avoid that RPM range. Take off, climb and cruise should
be well above 2300 rpm. If you want to cruise at 2300 RPM fine. In the pattern
when you get it slowed down and go to high RPM, your RPM in the pattern
should be around 1900 rpm to 2100 rpm. I don't think 2250 RPM is going to get
in the way.
First to explain there is a little history that needs to be explained. This
should make you feel better.
I hear good things about the RV 200RV, but you have to remember its a small company.
When Hartzell did there extensive testing of their props on RV's using
modified engines, electronic ignition and Hi Comp pistons a few years ago, they
found stronger modes or more vibration modes to avoid. RPM restrictions are
nothing new. The HC-C2YK/F7444 has a restriction on 180hp engines for many years
going back to the 70's (like on the Piper Arrow with this engine/prop combo).
When Hartzell said, wait there are differnt vibration modes, that are more severe
with the stronger power pulse when EI, HC pistons are used, WW jumped on
the bandwagon and copied or echoed Hartzells restrictions for electronic ignition
and Hi Comp pistons. The posted on their web site that Hartzell gound XYZ
so they where imposing the same restriction. I am sure at that point (about 2
years ago) they only where copying and had no actual data of their own. The kind
of testing Hartzell does is very sophisticated, expensive and time consuming.
(Note: There is a good reason for going with a big prop company.)
No offense to WW but I suspect they still have not independently flight tested
their props with strain gages. I could be wrong, but the restriction on Hratzells
is due to theoretical metal fatigue life. Since the WW is composite it should
not be fatigue critical.
Flying in the restricted RPM region will not cause catastrophic problems, even
for metal props, but from a theoretical total fatigue life calculation you are
reducing the life, which originally was assumed for practical purpose to be
almost infinite. Infinite is a very large finite number that is essentially for
practical purposes forever. Remember we are talking low stress but lots and
lots of cycles.
You know the paper clip trick bend it enough it breaks. Well if you don't bend
the clip at all or very little, it never breaks. Same with the prop. You keep
the stress below a threshold the life goes up to 10 to the 99th power. Over
a critical stress you do "fatigue damage". Fatigue damage is cumulative and adds
up (miners rule).
Therefore Hartzell limits blade life on highly modified engines (experimental
aircraft) to some where around 8,000-10,000 flight hours even with RPM restrictions.
They make some very conservative assumptions to get this number. Since
that is a lot of flying, chances are the blades will need to be retired due wear
before time. Also you have to remember there are huge factors of safety or
margins of safety and conservatism on these numbers. In other words even at 8,000
hour Hartzell on a radical engine is still safe, may be for another 8,000
hours. If you don't have HC pistons and EI than the prop life is not an issue
at all. It is essentially infinite.
WW is conservative, however its a mystery why a composite prop would have restricted
RPM, at least from fatigue life standpoint, since composites are not subject
to fatigue like metal. (I have a aerospace structural background).
I got the feeling the WW was being conservative and coping what Hartzell was
restricting. I think that is still the case. The WW200RV should be better than
a metal prop in vibration and fatigue, so I also suspect the 2250-2300 RPM
restriction is conservative. Their thinking is, hey it does not effect normal
operation and since Hartzell suggest it, lets do the same. No doubt the power
pulses are critical there for any prop and I guess they don't want to abuse their
prop either.
However when it comes to Props conservative is GOOD. The restriction is there
for fatigue life on metal props. WHY WW has a restriction I don't know for sure.
You would have to ask them. May be they did test it. Otherwise I think they
are coping the Big Boy (Hartzell).
So don't worry about it.
Give use a report on your new prop.
George
From: Ted Lumpkin
Subject: RV-List: WW 200RV Prop RPM Restriction?
I am considering purchasing a Whirlwind 200RV prop to replace my Hartzell on
an IO360. I am looking for a weight reduction and elimination of the 2000 -
2250 RPM restriction. I talked to Whirlwind today and the rep mentioned that
the prop designer "recommends" avoiding 2250 - 2300 RPM and this is identified
in the owner's manual.
Those of you using this prop, how are you handling this recommendation?
Thanks
Ted
Flying RV4
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WW 200RV Prop RPM Restriction? |
George,
Good post regarding the prop restrictions. A couple additional thoughts:
Regarding fatigue life, what you said is true for alloys of steel, but not
for aluminum. Even at low stresses, the fatigue life is not practically
infinite. Aluminum and its alloys are somewhat unique in this regard. I
haven't a clue what it would be for a prop, I suspect that there would be a
huge variation based upon usage and knick history.
Regarding the question of why an rpm limitation would be imposed on a
composite prop, I was under the impression that the Hartzell limitation was
somewhat based upon the crankshaft's interaction with the prop. Others more
knowledgable can comment.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 712 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WPAerial(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV fuel per hour and heat |
I have been following van's rvaitor article on economy flying. 1950 rpm's,
airspeed 120 mpr, and leaning. getting great fuel / hour. always under 5 g/h
with the best 4.42 g/h.
now i hear little jabs about i will burn up my O-320 which has a fixed pitch
79" prop.
what should i think about this?
Also My oil temp has always run cold. i have a door over the oil cooler. is
there away of telling if the veratherm is working properly, without buying a
new one?
jerry wilken
albany oregon
rv6a n699wp
390 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Anyone live at Stellar Airpark?? |
I am looking for someone who currently lives at Stellar Airpark, if you do please
email me off list I have a few questions. Thanks.
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [RV7A] Anyone live at Stellar Airpark?? |
Hi Matt,
I live at Stellar. Feel free to call me.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ (p19)
RV-7 N717EE
480-204-0662
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Johnson
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com ; rv7a(at)yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 11:55 AM
Subject: [RV7A] Anyone live at Stellar Airpark??
I am looking for someone who currently lives at Stellar Airpark, if you do please
email me off list I have a few questions. Thanks.
- Matt
The RV Aircraft Builders Group
SPONSORED LINKS Plane tickets Charter plane Aviation school
Aviation headset
a.. Visit your group "RV7A" on the web.
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV7A-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV fuel per hour and heat |
Hi Jerry,
I usually run my O-320 powered RV6 at 2250 rpm with a Sensenich 79" prop and
get great economy as well as good speed -
like around 6 US gals per hour at 135 kts.. I too have been told to be
aware of burning up the engine, most notably the exhaust valves, as well as
glazing the bores. I don't really see how, as my CHT's are all around
310-315 deg F, and the engine is producing approx 55% power. I know we
didn't build our RVs to go slow, but it is relative, and the fuel savings
are nice.
Cheers
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Lumpkin <tlump51(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Typo - WW 200RV Prop RPM Restriction? |
Thanks for all your input on this issue. I made a typo in my original post. The
WW 200RV recommended restriction is 2050 - 2300, not 2250 - 2300. I'm flying
with a Hartzell now so I can fly around the restriction, I just would feel
more comfortable not having to.
In the specs section on the WW website it clearly states, "restrictions: none".
It's a little disappointing to read that then have the rep tell you the owners
manual states otherwise.
Ted
Ted Lumpkin wrote:
I am considering purchasing a Whirlwind 200RV prop to replace my Hartzell on an
IO360. I am looking for a weight reduction and elimination of the 2000 - 2250
RPM restriction. I talked to Whirlwind today and the rep mentioned that the prop
designer "recommends" avoiding 2250 - 2300 RPM and this is identified in the
owner's manual.
Those of you using this prop, how are you handling this recommendation?
Thanks
Ted
Flying RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV fuel per hour and heat |
Mike Kraus wrote:
>
>Or you can do what I did. Remove it, put it in some real hot water
>(like boiling or slightly less than boiling) and see if it moves. You
>can measure the end of it. Put it in cold water and it will shrink...
>Worked great for me.
>
>By the way, O-320's run real cold most of the time. My RV-4 runs real
>cold all the time, in the summer I have a 3/4" hole going to the oil
>cooler and I just get to 190F. In the winter I block it off completely
>and it still won't get to 180F
>-Mike
>
I'm always interested in how those low numbers are achieved. What fuel
flow, rpm & mp are you running to get those temps, & what's your cht? Is
yours rated at 150 or 160 hp? Oil cooler on firewall, back cyl baffle,
or ?? Speed?
Inquiring minds (having owned several O-320's that ran hotter than that)
want to know.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
Hey Mickey, Charlie, Barefoot Billy et al-
After a bunch of setbacks, interruptions, sidetrack, and minor crises, I'm
finally back at it with my -8. Today I cut my (new Todd's) canopy to fit
the fuselage. I've read about all I can find on the glued canopy subject.
Standing back and admiring how much the project looks like a plane when the
canopy is in place, I had an idea. Suppose I were to put a few dabs of
SikaFlex on the roll bar and canopy bow, carefully set the canopy in place
with adequate and competent help, and then add dabs of glue around the
periphery of the canopy once it was clamped to the spacers. Once it was
cured, I could cut the canopy from the windscreen and go to work on the
full-up glue job and filleting. What do you guys think? Am I missing
something here, or wouldn't this approach simplify the whole rigging aspect
of independently gluing separate pieces of plastic to separate structures
and hoping that they line up well?
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for Lycoming parts on-line |
Where can one buy Lycoming Parts on line? Did a Google search and not much
luck finding an outfit that can cross-reference old part numbers to new and
has a web site that you can order from.
It looks like I have to do it the old fashioned way, pick up the phone, and
call.
I did find what I was looking for. (Studs to mount a mag.) Want spares in
case I break one when I install my new P-Mags.
It appears that there is a lack of new Lycoming part vendors on the
internet. Wonder is it has anything to do with UnApproved Parts getting
into the system.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,839 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Osburn" <flyby41(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for Lycoming parts on-line |
Gary,
I don't know about "online" but when I needed a bunch of new
engine parts a few years ago these guys seemed to be very knowledgeable and
had the best prices I could find at the time. I experienced all around good
service as well. Sorry I can't remember the name of the fellow I usually
talked to. They seemed to be willing to negotiate on some stuff like
cylinders at least. Premium Aircraft Parts
800-932-2129
> [Original Message]
> From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Date: 2/8/2006 8:29:04 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Looking for Lycoming parts on-line
>
>
> Where can one buy Lycoming Parts on line? Did a Google search and not
much
> luck finding an outfit that can cross-reference old part numbers to new
and
> has a web site that you can order from.
>
> It looks like I have to do it the old fashioned way, pick up the phone,
and
> call.
>
> I did find what I was looking for. (Studs to mount a mag.) Want spares
in
> case I break one when I install my new P-Mags.
>
> It appears that there is a lack of new Lycoming part vendors on the
> internet. Wonder is it has anything to do with UnApproved Parts getting
> into the system.
>
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,839 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Lycoming parts on-line |
Gary,
Have you tried Sacramento Sky Ranch? http://www.sacskyranch.com/
<http://www.sacskyranch.com/>
Click on Lycoming on the left side and then search for "stud". It gives
part # description and price for a lot of studs.
I've never bought from them, but it looks like they have almost any part
you'll need.
Dave
RV6 Flyer wrote:
>
>
>Where can one buy Lycoming Parts on line? Did a Google search and not much
>luck finding an outfit that can cross-reference old part numbers to new and
>has a web site that you can order from.
>
>It looks like I have to do it the old fashioned way, pick up the phone, and
>call.
>
>I did find what I was looking for. (Studs to mount a mag.) Want spares in
>case I break one when I install my new P-Mags.
>
>It appears that there is a lack of new Lycoming part vendors on the
>internet. Wonder is it has anything to do with UnApproved Parts getting
>into the system.
>
>
>Gary A. Sobek
>"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>1,839 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Lycoming parts on-line |
In a message dated 2/8/2006 8:25:30 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com writes:
Where can one buy Lycoming Parts on line? Did a Google search and not much
luck finding an outfit that can cross-reference old part numbers to new and
has a web site that you can order from.
It looks like I have to do it the old fashioned way, pick up the phone, and
call.
I did find what I was looking for. (Studs to mount a mag.) Want spares in
case I break one when I install my new P-Mags.
It appears that there is a lack of new Lycoming part vendors on the
internet. Wonder is it has anything to do with UnApproved Parts getting
into the system.
=============================
Gary-
When I needed the short stud when I had my flirtation with the P-Mags last
year, I got them from Sacramento Skyranch. You can have the ones I got.
The only issue here is that you don't always know which P/N stud you
actually need. You may need to get an oversized (pitch diameter) stud if you
can't
develop the required torque at the required engagement in the accessory case.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: glueing canopy |
> ... Suppose I were to put a few dabs of
> SikaFlex on the roll bar and canopy bow, carefully set the canopy in place
> with adequate and competent help, and then add dabs of glue around the
> periphery of the canopy once it was clamped to the spacers. Once it was
> cured, I could cut the canopy from the windscreen and go to work on the
> full-up glue job and filleting. What do you guys think? ...
When I was gluing on my canopy, I didn't have the F-821PP skin riveted
on, so your idea didn't occur to me. I did try to put some glue on
the canopy frame and set the canopy down on it, and it was a mess.
I didn't properly anticipate the exact locations on the frame where
the canopy would touch. Along the side, the location changes about
90 degrees from front to back. I ended up with a lot of glue in
places I didn't want it, so I had to have much larger fillets of
Sikaflex that I really needed.
I have done some test fitting of the windscreen to see how it will
line up, and I don't anticipate any real troubles, if that is
your major concern.
On my next canopy, here's how I'll do it:
Clamp the canopy to the frame, and use a bit of Sikaflex to
glue it on - don't try to do too much until the canopy is
glued to the frame. Once glued, then you can take your time
and run some pretty beads along the edges. I'd try to put
the glue on the bottom, not the top. You might need a very
small fillet on the top just for cosmetics. The initial
gluing step would require about 30 dabs of glue around
the frame.
Good luck!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KellyM <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Lycoming parts on-line |
In addition to Sac Sky Ranch
www.aircraft-specialties.com
www.premiumaircraftparts.com
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 2/8/2006 8:25:30 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
> Where can one buy Lycoming Parts on line? Did a Google search and not much
> luck finding an outfit that can cross-reference old part numbers to new and
> has a web site that you can order from.
>
> I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
Are you talking about installing the canopy in one piece then cutting the
wind screen loose from the sliding section? If I understand the process you
are describing it sound reasonable. But this is coming from someone that
has not gotten to this point in the building process.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9 N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
Hey Mickey, Charlie, Barefoot Billy et al-
After a bunch of setbacks, interruptions, sidetrack, and minor crises, I'm
finally back at it with my -8. Today I cut my (new Todd's) canopy to fit
the fuselage. I've read about all I can find on the glued canopy subject.
Standing back and admiring how much the project looks like a plane when the
canopy is in place, I had an idea. Suppose I were to put a few dabs of
SikaFlex on the roll bar and canopy bow, carefully set the canopy in place
with adequate and competent help, and then add dabs of glue around the
periphery of the canopy once it was clamped to the spacers. Once it was
cured, I could cut the canopy from the windscreen and go to work on the
full-up glue job and filleting. What do you guys think? Am I missing
something here, or wouldn't this approach simplify the whole rigging aspect
of independently gluing separate pieces of plastic to separate structures
and hoping that they line up well?
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "czechsix(at)juno.com" <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | O-360/CS full power fuel flow |
Guys,
For those of you with a 180 HP O-360, CS prop, and fuel flowmeter.....can anybody
tell me what fuel flow they see at full takeoff power / 2700 rpm / mixture
rich? The Lycoming manual shows about 15 gph at full power, but the engine break-in
documentation that came from Aerosport Power shows something like 22 gph
at max power. That's a pretty big discrepancy. Curious if anybody can verify
one number or the other...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D, FAA inspection tomorrow with first flight as soon as the wx cooperates....
Guys,
For those of you with a 180 HP O-360, CS prop, and fuel flowmeter.....can anybody
tell me what fuel flow they see at full takeoff power / 2700 rpm / mixture
rich? The Lycoming manual shows about 15 gph at full power, but the engine break-in
documentation that came from Aerosport Power shows something like 22 gph
at max power. That's a pretty big discrepancy. Curious if anybody can verify
one number or the other...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D, FAA inspection tomorrow with first flight as soon as the wx cooperates....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360/CS full power fuel flow |
I like to keep records on these numbers myself. EAA published an extensive test
(including fuel flow numbers) on different exhaust systems and the test horse
was the IO - 360. The max power fuel flow was always in the neighborhood of
20 - 21 GPH. The 180 HP O - 360 would burn proportionally less (about 18 - 19
GPH at max power) but 15 GPH at 180 HP is somewhat optimistic I think. Running
the engine rich during break-in would easily put it in the 22 GPH area.
My Mazda rotary makes about 200 HP at 7000 rpm and burns about 20 GPH. What a
coincidence!
The BSFC of most any piston (or rotary) engine improves when tested at less than
max power. It takes less than half the fuel to make half the HP, especially
when leaning the mixture aggressively.
Tracy Crook
----- Original Message -----
From: czechsix(at)juno.com<mailto:czechsix(at)juno.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 9:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: O-360/CS full power fuel flow
Guys,
For those of you with a 180 HP O-360, CS prop, and fuel flowmeter.....can anybody
tell me what fuel flow they see at full takeoff power / 2700 rpm / mixture
rich? The Lycoming manual shows about 15 gph at full power, but the engine
break-in documentation that came from Aerosport Power shows something like 22
gph at max power. That's a pretty big discrepancy. Curious if anybody can verify
one number or the other...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D, FAA inspection tomorrow with first flight as soon as the wx cooperates....
Guys,
For those of you with a 180 HP O-360, CS prop, and fuel flowmeter.....can anybody
tell me what fuel flow they see at full takeoff power / 2700 rpm / mixture
rich? The Lycoming manual shows about 15 gph at full power, but the engine break-in
documentation that came from Aerosport Power shows something like 22 gph
at max power. That's a pretty big discrepancy. Curious if anybody can verify
one number or the other...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D, FAA inspection tomorrow with first flight as soon as the wx cooperates....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: O-360/CS full power fuel flow |
In a message dated 2/9/2006 6:11:28 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
For those of you with a 180 HP O-360, CS prop, and fuel flowmeter.....can
anybody tell me what fuel flow they see at full takeoff power / 2700 rpm /
mixture rich? The Lycoming manual shows about 15 gph at full power
======================================================
15-16 gph is what I see routinely at take off at my field on my 0-360 c/s
WFO at 400 ft MSL. 8.2-8.4 gph is what I see leaned out at 65%.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360/CS full power fuel flow |
On 9 Feb 2006, at 14:06, czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Guys,
> For those of you with a 180 HP O-360, CS prop, and fuel
> flowmeter.....can anybody tell me what fuel flow they see at full
> takeoff power / 2700 rpm / mixture rich? The Lycoming manual shows
> about 15 gph at full power, but the engine break-in documentation
> that came from Aerosport Power shows something like 22 gph at max
> power. That's a pretty big discrepancy. Curious if anybody can
> verify one number or the other...
Mark,
If you are looking at Figure 3-34 in the Lycoming Operator's Manual,
it is labelled "Minimum Allowable Fuel Flow". There is nothing wrong
with having a higher fuel flow than that, as long as the engine runs
smoothly.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360/CS full power fuel flow |
The numbers I gave are from memory from about a year ago, they were posted by Mahlon
from Mattituc. Maybe I am off a gallon on the low side but I think close.
Again you want real answers from someone who has run hundreds of engines on
the dyno, then post this question on the Lycoming list and Mahlon will answer
it with real numbers.
I like to keep records on these numbers myself. EAA published an extensive test
(including fuel flow numbers) on different exhaust systems and the test horse
was the IO - 360. The max power fuel flow was always in the neighborhood of 20
- 21 GPH. The 180 HP O - 360 would burn proportionally less (about 18 - 19 GPH
at max power) but 15 GPH at 180 HP is somewhat optimistic I think. Running
the engine rich during break-in would easily put it in the 22 GPH area.
My Mazda rotary makes about 200 HP at 7000 rpm and burns about 20 GPH. What a coincidence!
The BSFC of most any piston (or rotary) engine improves when tested at less than
max power. It takes less than half the fuel to make half the HP, especially
when leaning the mixture aggressively.
Tracy Crook
----- Original Message -----
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 9:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: O-360/CS full power fuel flow
Guys,
For those of you with a 180 HP O-360, CS prop, and fuel flowmeter.....can anybody
tell me what fuel flow they see at full takeoff power / 2700 rpm / mixture
rich? The Lycoming manual shows about 15 gph at full power, but the engine break-in
documentation that came from Aerosport Power shows something like 22 gph
at max power. That's a pretty big discrepancy. Curious if anybody can verify
one number or the other...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D, FAA inspection tomorrow with first flight as soon as the wx cooperates....
Guys,
For those of you with a 180 HP O-360, CS prop, and fuel flowmeter.....can anybody
tell me what fuel flow they see at full takeoff power / 2700 rpm / mixture
rich? The Lycoming manual shows about 15 gph at full power, but the engine break-in
documentation that came from Aerosport Power shows something like 22 gph
at max power. That's a pretty big discrepancy. Curious if anybody can verify
one number or the other...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D, FAA inspection tomorrow with first flight as soon as the wx cooperates....
Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
cell 858-395-5094
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360/CS full power fuel flow |
> For those of you with a 180 HP O-360, CS prop, and fuel flowmeter.....can
> anybody tell me what fuel flow they see at full takeoff power / 2700 rpm /
> mixture rich? The Lycoming manual shows about 15 gph at full power, but
> the engine break-in documentation that came from Aerosport Power shows
> something like 22 gph at max power.
16-17 gph for mine. Almost always read 16.5 when taking off from near sea
level. I would imagine jetting could change this figure when running at full
rich mixture. If someone is burning 19-20 gph their main jets may be too
large.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WW 200RV Prop RPM Restriction? Hartzell WW MT |
First I'll say I the Hartzell Blended Airfoil is the best value and the
fastest constant speed prop you can put on. I think WW and MT
make good products and will be lighter than the Hartzell. MT claims
no restriction but they are VERY vague about it. I have seen nothing
in writing or that they have tested it on modified engines. However
with a wood core blade I suspect that they are OK at least with a
stock engine since wood is such a good dampener.
Alex you are right the stress level for Al fatigue damage can be lower
than steel, but steel can be horrible, depending on type of steel and
heat treat.
Yes fatigue life is not really infinite for an aluminum prop, but I meant
it's so long that for practical service it represents such a long
calendar period it is considered infinite. Large jets are good for 20
years of economical service with 24/7 severe service with a factor of
2, or 40 years. Boeing's stand is with proper maintenance and
inspection an airframe can go forever. However the FAA and aging
fleet initiative makes inspections so expensive and intrusive (x-ray,
eddy current, ultra sound and mass dis assembly) that it becomes too
expensive to continue to fly it commercial. However a used B707 is
built like a tank, and if only operated with low use private purposes
makes an awesome large business Jet (John Travolta). These B707
are over 40 year old and built for stout. The freight companies are
thrashing 40 year old DCV-8's nightly. They just keep replacing
parts. On the other hand an old fire bomber (C130A) lost a wing and
recently in the news the Chalks Airlines Grumman lost a wing,
which is a dramatic and tragic reminder of what metal fatigue is.
In the past people modified metal props off of slow factory planes for
their fast homebuilt. They would cut them down, re-pitch them. The
vibratory stresses where so great that they broke in a few 100 hours
(I think at the 2/3 span).
Alex, yes I do think the interaction of crank and prop vibration is the
issue, but it's a prop restriction not a crank restriction. If Lycoming
wanted a life limited crank they could save some lbs, but they have
such an overbuilt piece of steel that stresses are below that critical
level, where damage is nil. As it's now you can rebuild a Lycoming
almost infinitely. They mandatory replacement parts are the highly
loaded rod nuts and studs, for example. However you can weld up a
7000 hr cracked cylinder or use a 10,000 crank and go fly.
They have S-N charts, stress-cycle charts. Higher the stress the less
the cycles. Makes sense. Than there is stress concentration (sharp
corners) and how the stress cycles, such as is it from zero to positive
or tension-compression and back, which does far grater damage. If
you keep a part in compression you can improve the fatigue life. I
made a living doing fatigue life analysis on large aluminum transport
jet airframes. I can tell you a sharp nick on a prop is critical. The prop
mid to tip area is critical, where the cross section is thinner. The root
has details that are critical, where the fillet radiuses are in the mount
flange area in the hub. To counter act stress they add material (lower
stress), use good details (smooth surfaces, big radius lower stress
concentration) and treat the material to shoot penning in some cases
to add residual compression to the material.
My point is props are designed for a very very long fatigue life time.
Although not really infinite, it's so long, for all practical purposes the
prop will be dimensionally and physically worn down or is scrap for
other reasons, like corrosion, before the fatigue life is reached. When
you bring your Hartzell in and the P-shop says you are .001 under
the min thickness at the second station from the tip, you are cooked.
I have one of those "scraped" props on my RV. I called and the
reason they specify a min dimension is not fatigue or stress but just a
somewhat arbitrary dimension as a cutoff based more on loss of
performance than fatigue. Some big props that start life at 6 inch
chord can be trimmed down to say 5 inches they just say that is
enough for performance reasons. Some times they do find cracks;
micro cracks that if left could cause a failure. That is why there is
limited time between overhauls recommend. Crack growth rate is
another part of fatigue analysis. You assume a crack and calculate if
it will grow to be critical before the next inspection cycle. The time
limited aspect is for corrosion, which is the killer of most old props
left out in the weather.
Hartzell has recognized after a period of time some parts of
old designs where not unlimited life and need to be restricted, thus
the dreaded AD. In the past they made hubs and clamps with steel.
We are talking 1940's, 50's design that have not been made in a 1/2
century. They have limited life, repeated inspections and some
stress relieving process that must be done every overhaul (which
period is now shorter), such a shot penning. Shot penning puts a
residual compressive stress in the outer surface which can help
fatigue life.
The compact hub like the HC-C2YK and the later BA airfoil are
derivatives of a design that has millions of hours and been improved
since the 60's. Even a HC-C2YK has been improved and a new
Hartzell with the same part number is nothing like the one make in
1969. They continually improve them so it's a mature design and well
tested. That is why you find the NEW BA airfoil has NO RPM
restrictions!
"SUPERIOR XP-360 RESTRICTIONS:
Hartzell Propeller Model HC-C2YR-1BFP/F7496 (BA prop) is
vibrationally approved when mounted on Superior Air Parts model O-
360-B1A2 and IO-360-B1A2 engines rated at 180HP at 2700 RPM
with magneto ignition and installed in Van's Model RV-6A and similar
single engine tractor aircraft. There are no operating restrictions."
http://www.hartzellprop.com/kitplane/index_kitplane.htm
With HC pistons, EI and FADEC there are restrictions but they single
power point restriction (one MP/RPM) for the new Hartzell BA prop,
but they are not a range of RPM's as with the classic HC-
C2YK/F7666.
George
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
George,
Good post regarding the prop restrictions. A couple additional
thoughts: Regarding fatigue life, what you said is true for alloys of
steel, but
not for aluminum. Even at low stresses, the fatigue life is not
practically infinite.
Alex Peterson RV6-A N66AP 712 hours
Maple Grove, MN
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Supposedly MT makes a prop without an RPM restriction.
Ron Lee
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <dan.beadle(at)inclinesoftworks.com> |
| Subject: | O-360/CS full power fuel flow |
These numbers seem about right. Rule of thumb is about 10HP / Gallon when
at best power (100 degrees rich). Varies by engine type, but generally
within 10%
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of scott bilinski
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 8:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-360/CS full power fuel flow
The numbers I gave are from memory from about a year ago, they were posted
by Mahlon from Mattituc. Maybe I am off a gallon on the low side but I think
close. Again you want real answers from someone who has run hundreds of
engines on the dyno, then post this question on the Lycoming list and Mahlon
will answer it with real numbers.
Crook"
I like to keep records on these numbers myself. EAA published an extensive
test (including fuel flow numbers) on different exhaust systems and the test
horse was the IO - 360. The max power fuel flow was always in the
neighborhood of 20 - 21 GPH. The 180 HP O - 360 would burn proportionally
less (about 18 - 19 GPH at max power) but 15 GPH at 180 HP is somewhat
optimistic I think. Running the engine rich during break-in would easily put
it in the 22 GPH area.
My Mazda rotary makes about 200 HP at 7000 rpm and burns about 20 GPH. What
a coincidence!
The BSFC of most any piston (or rotary) engine improves when tested at less
than max power. It takes less than half the fuel to make half the HP,
especially when leaning the mixture aggressively.
Tracy Crook
----- Original Message -----
From: czechsix(at)juno.com
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 9:06 AM
Subject: RV-List: O-360/CS full power fuel flow
Guys,
For those of you with a 180 HP O-360, CS prop, and fuel flowmeter.....can
anybody tell me what fuel flow they see at full takeoff power / 2700 rpm /
mixture rich? The Lycoming manual shows about 15 gph at full power, but the
engine break-in documentation that came from Aerosport Power shows something
like 22 gph at max power. That's a pretty big discrepancy. Curious if
anybody can verify one number or the other...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D, FAA inspection tomorrow with first flight as soon as the wx
cooperates....
Guys,
For those of you with a 180 HP O-360, CS prop, and fuel flowmeter.....can
anybody tell me what fuel flow they see at full takeoff power / 2700 rpm /
mixture rich? The Lycoming manual shows about 15 gph at full power, but the
engine break-in documentation that came from Aerosport Power shows something
like 22 gph at max power. That's a pretty big discrepancy. Curious if
anybody can verify one number or the other...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D, FAA inspection tomorrow with first flight as soon as the wx
cooperates....
Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
cell 858-395-5094
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV fuel per hour and heat (Low power cruise) |
As long as the engine is in normal limits as Lycoming recommends. Off the top of
my head 280 CHT, Oil Temp 190/180 min. There is not truth to doing damage as
long as you get it hot enough. Sure you need to check it makes full power, but
that happens every takeoff. I am not a fan of babying it on take-off but that
would be the next step in fuel saving. Do you need 2000 fpm climb?
Check Lycomings key reprints. They address this.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/keyReprints/operation/lowPowerLowRPM.html
Here is the other operational articles that has good info on power settings.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation.html
So what do you all think about de-rated takeoffs? I guess if the runway is long
and there are no obstacles, but I tend to want to get as high as fast as possible.
ON the other hand a Cessna C150 is crawling up at 500 fpm all the time.
George
From: "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au>
Hi Jerry,
I usually run my O-320 powered RV6 at 2250 rpm with a Sensenich 79"
prop and get great economy as well as good speed -
like around 6 US gals per hour at 135 kts.. I too have been told to be
aware of burning up the engine, most notably the exhaust valves, as
well as glazing the bores. I don't really see how, as my CHT's are all around
310-315 deg F, and the engine is producing approx 55% power. I know we
didn't build our RVs to go slow, but it is relative, and the fuel
savings are nice. Cheers Martin in Oz
---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
The posting by linn Walters regarding operation of the Varatherm reminded me of
a recent experience with an initial run of a engine that I think is worth passing
along to the those who have not yet run their engines
.
When we did the first start of the engine on a rather cold day we saw no oil leaks
in the engine area. In a subsequent engine start, within a half hour, suddenly
there was oil leaking on the back side of the engine. After shutting it down
we discovered the leak was from the oil line returning the oil from the oil
cooler to the engine. It appears the oil leak only appeared after the Varatherm
opened and there was oil pressure in the return line. A oil pressure check
was made as soon as the engine was first started the first time so I don't think
it was the oil pressure finally coming up,
The point here is to be sure the engine gets sufficiently warm to open the Varatherm
when doing the leak testing on a new engine. Other wise there maybe a leak
you are not aware of when making that first flight.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
EAA TC & FA
PS I would be interested in hearing from engine experts if my analysis is wrong.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Governor for Whirlwind Prop |
For you users of Whirlwind props, what governor are you using?
WW recommends the Jihostroj P920 which sells for approx $1,250. Van
sells the MT P860-4 governor (also made by Jihostroj) for $1050.
Will Van's MT governor work on a WW 150-151 prop which requires a
pressure of 450-475 PSI? Do MT props require the same high pressure to
operate?
Any fit problems with either governor?
Thanks,
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
You are correct Dale in that an oil line leak from the cooler would not
be found until the Vernatherm opens. The vernatherm is supposed to open
(53E22144)which is the current Lycoming vernatherm when oil temp reaches
187-189 F. Not to be alarmed but when the vernatherm opens there will be
a slight drop in pressure, usually 3-5 lbs.
Allen Barrett
BPE, Inc.
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Ensing
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Varnatherm
The posting by linn Walters regarding operation of the Varatherm
reminded me of a recent experience with an initial run of a engine that
I think is worth passing along to the those who have not yet run their
engines
.
When we did the first start of the engine on a rather cold day we saw no
oil leaks in the engine area. In a subsequent engine start, within a
half hour, suddenly there was oil leaking on the back side of the
engine. After shutting it down we discovered the leak was from the oil
line returning the oil from the oil cooler to the engine. It appears the
oil leak only appeared after the Varatherm opened and there was oil
pressure in the return line. A oil pressure check was made as soon as
the engine was first started the first time so I don't think it was the
oil pressure finally coming up,
The point here is to be sure the engine gets sufficiently warm to open
the Varatherm when doing the leak testing on a new engine. Other wise
there maybe a leak you are not aware of when making that first flight.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
EAA TC & FA
PS I would be interested in hearing from engine experts if my analysis
is wrong.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Hartzell WW MT - my MT comments |
For my engine combination (their actual statement was O360 - 180 hp or greater),
MT recommended that I install the F6 counterweighted crankshaft (now going back
for AD) and they told me there were no limitations with this recommended combination.
I am using AFP injection, Lasar ignition, and 9.2 pistons in an Aerosport built
engine.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV fuel per hour and heat (Low power cruise) |
> Do you need 2000 fpm climb?
Why not? Your first article discussed ways to save fuel. One way
is to cut flying. I don't intend to fly 300 hours this year. But I will
cruise at normal speeds when I do. And I buy gas where it is
cheaper.
>
So what do you all think about de-rated takeoffs? I guess if the
runway is long and there are no obstacles, but I tend to want to get
as high as fast as possible.
I agree. Get up to cruising altitude. Full Throttle for a few minutes
is not going to cost that much gas. Personally, if you are worried
about that amount either sell the plane or cut back a few hours.
It is like buying a Yugo to save gas. Not me. I prefer large pieces
of metal around me when I drive and if I have to pay more for gas,
so be it. Safety is the higher priority.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV fuel per hour and heat (Low power cruise) |
> So what do you all think about de-rated takeoffs? I guess if the
runway is long and there are no obstacles, but I tend to want to get as
high as fast as possible. ON the other hand a Cessna C150 is crawling up
at 500 fpm all the time.
George
George,
De-rated takeoffs at low elevations are probably a bad idea because the
carburetor (and I think fuel injection systems also) run richer at full
throttle than when slightly retarded to increase the detonation margin.
You run the risk of operating too lean and closer to the detonation
margin when at higher than 75% power and low fuel flow. If you were to
use a power setting below 75%, perhaps that would be a non issue.
At higher altitude airports, your takeoff power is automatically
de-rated by lower air pressure and you may have to lean to achieve
maximum available power. Because you're operating below 75% at anything
above around 7500' density altitude (and normally aspirated), it's
harder to make it detonate by leaning.
I like the idea of maximum terrain clearance as soon as possible for
purposes of having more time in case of power failure. This calls for
full available power for takeoff and initial climb. Power can be reduced
when you feel you're high enough to have viable engine out options. YMMV
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Governor for Whirlwind Prop |
> WW recommends the Jihostroj P920 which sells for approx $1,250. Van
> sells the MT P860-4 governor (also made by Jihostroj) for $1050.
>
> Will Van's MT governor work on a WW 150-151 prop which requires a
> pressure of 450-475 PSI? Do MT props require the same high pressure to
> operate?
Due to a smaller piston in the hub the WW 150-151 require the governor
pressure to be in the 425 psi range rather than the 325-350 range. WW buys
the Jihostroj governors specially modified for the higher pressure,
therefore the MT version won't work for the WW 150-151.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Lycoming parts on-line (RV6 Flyer) |
ECI
http://www.eci2fly.com/
I think some one mentioned sacramento sky ranch already. G
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: gluing canopy |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
One thing to be sure to do if you glue in multiple steps is to re-do the
prep steps each time, and be sure to apply the primer and glue within
the timeframes specified. I spoke to a builder who did a bunch of
testing on the glue joints. He tested parts where they waited much
longer than specified between priming and gluing, and the joint strength
definitely suffers. Done properly, he verified that the glue joint is
stronger than the Plexiglas, but he said following the instructions is
paramount.
Dennis Glaeser
7A Fuselage (lots of riveting to do before I get to glue :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Governor for Whirlwind Prop |
Are you saying that the modified Jihostroj P920 governor is the only
governor that operates the Whirlwind 150-151 propeller?
BTW, Jihostroj made the P-4xx series governor for MT Propeller.
The P-8xx series governor number became necessary to differentiate a newly
certified manufacturer for an identical performing governor.
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 02/09/2006 12:15:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
randy(at)romeolima.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold"
> WW recommends the Jihostroj P920 which sells for approx $1,250. Van
> sells the MT P860-4 governor (also made by Jihostroj) for $1050.
>
> Will Van's MT governor work on a WW 150-151 prop which requires a
> pressure of 450-475 PSI? Do MT props require the same high pressure to
> operate?
Due to a smaller piston in the hub the WW 150-151 require the governor
pressure to be in the 425 psi range rather than the 325-350 range. WW buys
the Jihostroj governors specially modified for the higher pressure,
therefore the MT version won't work for the WW 150-151.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Governor for Whirlwind Prop |
> Are you saying that the modified Jihostroj P920 governor is the only
> governor that operates the Whirlwind 150-151 propeller?
Yes, as far as I know. Check with WW to be sure...
www.whirlwindaviation.com
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "13brv3" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net> |
I'm glad this came up, because I've never quite understood how this little gizmo
worked. Now that I think I understand it, I'm left with another puzzle.
Why do people go to the trouble to block off part of their oil cooler in the winter?
If this thermostat only opens when the temp is too high, then it will barely
be putting any oil through the cooler anyway.
Color me confused...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11138#11138
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Well....some of us that live up in the great north not only have to close
off our oil coolers, but I also put Duct Tape over about 30% of my cowl
inlets.
I flew last weekend when it was only 12 degrees outside and to get the oil
temp above 120 I have to have the cooler not only blocked off, but taped on
the front and the cowl inlets also partially closed. Even then I barely got
it above 180.
Also, some of us have lyc's with no VERNATHERM (not only has this entire
thread been archived, but it's been archived with the incorrect
spelling....just wondering why nobody changed the subject line already)?!?!
Cheers,
Stein.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of 13brv3
>Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 5:43 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Varnatherm
>
>
>I'm glad this came up, because I've never quite understood how
>this little gizmo worked. Now that I think I understand it, I'm
>left with another puzzle.
>
>Why do people go to the trouble to block off part of their oil
>cooler in the winter? If this thermostat only opens when the temp
>is too high, then it will barely be putting any oil through the
>cooler anyway.
>
>Color me confused...
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11138#11138
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | O-360/CS full power fuel flow |
>
> Guys,
> For those of you with a 180 HP O-360, CS prop, and fuel
> flowmeter.....can anybody tell me what fuel flow they see at
> full takeoff power / 2700 rpm / mixture rich? The Lycoming
> manual shows about 15 gph at full power, but the engine
> break-in documentation that came from Aerosport Power shows
> something like 22 gph at max power. That's a pretty big
> discrepancy. Curious if anybody can verify one number or the other...
> Thanks,
> --Mark Navratil
Mark, the 22 sounds quite high. Mine runs at about 16 or so at 1000msl, and
many others have reported similar results in past threads on this subject.
Don Rivera (designer of the Airflow Performance system) has indicated to me
that 17 or so is correct for a 180hp at sea level (I'll have to note the
flow next time I'm at sea level, which will be Sun-n-Fun in April).
There are some extremely good articles about engine management written by
John Deakin on www.avweb.com. They are not necessarily easy reading, so
plan on spending some serious time studying them.
The one number I've not been able to directly find yet is the specific fuel
consumption desired for a full throttle sea level condition. Clearly, at
this full rich setting, excess fuel is desired to modify the combustion to
eliminate detonation and to run cooler. My 16 gph at 1000msl would work out
to be about .57 lb/hp/hr (sfc, specific fuel consumption). Best power is
around .51, while best economy is around .4. 22gph would be .73 lb/hp/hr.
Does anyone know the desired sfc for full throttle, sea level power?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 712 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron bearings |
Has anybody change the bearings in there aileron brackets? The ones on my
-6A are in need of replacement. Seem like I have seen a tool similar to a
c-clamp in an old RVator but can't put my hands on it. I searched the
archive to no avail. i will be doing my annual in the near future and would
like to take care of this.
Scott Frierson
N162RV
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
> Why do people go to the trouble to block off part of their oil cooler in the
winter? If this thermostat only opens when the temp is too high, then it will
barely be putting any oil through the cooler anyway.olor me confused...
Some production airplanes including Warriors and Cherokees use a bolt-on winterization
plate to completely block off the frontal area of the oil cooler for winter
operations. In fact the 0-320 equipped 1974 Piper Warrior's oil cooler
is mounted exactly the same way my plans mounted cooler is and it has a permanently
mounted back plate installed!
The baffle mounted oil cooler supporting my 0-320 would barely attain degrees in the hottest of summer weather. Through trial and error experimentation, I eventually blocked off the entire back side of the oil cooler with a plate. This finally brought the temp up to 180-185 degrees. Even so, when winter arrived, the oil temp barely rose to 130 degrees so I blocked off the frontal area of the cooler like the aforementioned production planes. Then when a brief winter temperature inversion occurred around here, I had to remove it to keep from generating too hot oil temperatures. This is precisely why I brought the oil cooler vent/shutter from Van's. http://tinyurl.com/9xh9k Adjustable from the cockpit, this device should put an end to constant tweaking of the oil cooler to compensate for seasonal (or daily) weather changes.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 108 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11201#11201
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald L. Erickson" <dle(at)joplin.com> |
I am looking at graghical read out EIS systems. Does anyone have thoughts about
the Auracle by Xerion. It looked nice at Oshgosh last year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: gluing canopy
>Are you talking about installing the canopy in one piece then cutting the
>wind screen loose from the sliding section?
Yup- I'm currently pausing to contemplate all the ways I can screw this
up, and will hopefully come up with an idea or two that will simplify the
process.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VernathermRe: Varnatherm |
"There should be no reason to cover your oil cooler if you have a vernatherm."
Jeff,
It was explained to me that there is a small flow of oil thru the cooler even
when the vernatherm is closed. This is to prevent the oil in the cooler from congealing
which would not allow the oil to flow thru the cooler when the vernatherm
does open. Partially closing off the cooler helps the non-congealing flow
to do its job and subsequently helps keep the oil temp up when there is a flow
thru the cooler.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron bearings |
I had to change mine. I used a C clamp and a couple of sockets. Worked
fine. I'll bet a bunch of old RVs have locked ail bearings. I talked to
Vans and they told me that after having numerous seizures, they changed
their bearing supplier.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
265 hours
Chicago/Louisville
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 6:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron bearings
>
> Has anybody change the bearings in there aileron brackets? The ones on my
> -6A are in need of replacement. Seem like I have seen a tool similar to a
> c-clamp in an old RVator but can't put my hands on it. I searched the
> archive to no avail. i will be doing my annual in the near future and
> would
> like to take care of this.
>
> Scott Frierson
> N162RV
> Flying
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Vernatherm mystery unveiled |
Alright, someone explained how this works and why. He replied off list so
I'll remove his identity.
Here goes:
There is always oil pressure in both the return line from the cooler and
inlet to the cooler line weather the oil is cold or hot. There is only
full flow through the cooler when the oil is hot. When the oil is cold the
oil is ported is such a way that there is the same oil pressure going down
the return line as what is going down the in line to the cooler. Thus no
flow. When the vernatherm expands it changes the routing so that all the
oil goes through the cooler and then back to the engine instead of down
both lines. When the oil is cold there is actually a very small flow
through the cooler even though the vernatherm is open. This is done by
design, they do that so that when it is very cold the oil won't congeal in
the cooler because if there was no flow, the stagnant oil would "freeze" in
the cooler effectively blocking the cooler and preventing its use once the
vernatherm called for cooling. This is why when it is cold out and we can't
get any real oil temp, blocking the airflow over the cooler will help run
the oil a bit warmer then without the block installed because we blocked
the cooling air attacking the non congealing flow through the cooler.
Not trying to start an argument just trying to set you straight.
No argument here. Thanks for the reply.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
265 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mitchell Goodrich" <mgoodrich(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
HI Donald,
I am very impressed with Xerion Auracele also. I've been to the factory and
spent quite a
bit of time with the unit out in the direct sun. Its the brightest and
clearest screen
ever seen. Perfect for a full canopy like my EZE. If you want a direct phone
number to the
technical gura, let me know. I call him quite often.
Xerion will be at Sun n Fun this year with a large booth just outside the
Aircraft Spruce
Hall. Hear they will have many demo units and a plane in the booth with the
unit installed.
Mitchell Goodrich
VEZE 60P
813-356-9758
hiflier68(at)yahoo.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald L. Erickson
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 9:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: EIS
I am looking at graghical read out EIS systems. Does anyone have thoughts
about the Auracle by Xerion. It looked nice at Oshgosh last year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
The Vernatherm does not block flow to the cooler, it's an oil cooler
BYPASS valve. It's in parallel with the cooler, so when it's open the
oil goes whichever direction is easiest. When it's closed (hot oil) it
forces the oil through the cooler. So, oil is always able to go to the
cooler and some always does, hence the reason for blocking the air to
the cooler.
Dave -6, So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
13brv3 wrote:
>
>I'm glad this came up, because I've never quite understood how this little gizmo
worked. Now that I think I understand it, I'm left with another puzzle.
>
>Why do people go to the trouble to block off part of their oil cooler in the winter?
If this thermostat only opens when the temp is too high, then it will
barely be putting any oil through the cooler anyway.
>
>Color me confused...
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11138#11138
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | To/From Avionics Question |
| From: | n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net |
Can someone tell me what the "+To" and "+From" wires from a nav radio
actually do? What data do they send?
I have them on my SL30 and it would seem like it sends data that states
you are TO or FROM a VOR, but I have the same outputs on my GX60 which is
a IFR certified GPS/Comm and I would not expect it on that unit if they
were relating to a VOR.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Mike Kraus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Video's For Sale |
EAA From the Ground Up Vol 2 and 4.
Orndorff RV- 8 Finishing Kit.
Ornforff RV 6/8 Empennage Part 1 and Part 2.
All 5 for $40 plus shipping.
Steve Glasgow
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
704-362-0005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dsvs(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: To/From Avionics Question |
The wires just drive the the to/from flag on the indicator. The gps will provide
virtual vor so the info is used in the same way . The actual info is derived
from which side of the vor you are compared with the selected radial. Hope
that helps
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net
>
>
> Can someone tell me what the "+To" and "+From" wires from a nav radio
> actually do? What data do they send?
>
> I have them on my SL30 and it would seem like it sends data that states
> you are TO or FROM a VOR, but I have the same outputs on my GX60 which is
> a IFR certified GPS/Comm and I would not expect it on that unit if they
> were relating to a VOR.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> -Mike Kraus
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Lowrance GPS Tecnical Help |
I recently purchased an older used Lowrance GPS, it's the 5 channel
"Airmap" predecessor to the Airmap 300. It is 8 years old but in like
new condition with little obvious signs of use. The computer and
database functions work fine but (and its a big but) the GPS will not
lock on to give a position.
Lowrance sort of understandably declines to support stuff that is this
old. So does anyone know of a source for Lowrance repairs or upgrades or
of a web site with advice of keeping older Lowrance equipment going? I
am thinking of opening the case to reseat the connectors, etc.
Thanks to anyone who can assist. It's a nice unit and would be a shame
to just toss it in the trash.
(I realize this is not hard RV stuff but I did buy the GPS to use in my
-6A so it is relevant to RV flight ops.)
Jim Oke
RV-6A C-GKGZ
Wpg., MB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lowrance GPS Tecnical Help |
Jim,
I have one of those Lowarnce models and it works just fine....have it
connected to the Nav Aid wing leveler to fly a flight plan, tho' I now use
an AnywhereMap with a modern PDA, but keep the Lowarnce as back up...I found
that the antenna placement is fairly fussy on the Lowrance...if everything
else is OK, try moving the antenna to various locations...if you still have
the "flip up" cover- antenna connected, you might try removing it and using
the remote feature to let the antenna get a better view of the sky.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lowrance GPS Technical Help |
First off it probably does not know where it is or the correct time.
If you can verify that the date/time is correct then see if there is a
way to set your approximate position. There should be a screen
that shows the positions of the GPS satellites. If you can compare
yours with a GPS receiver that is working properly you can see how
bad the almanac is.
Have it on in an area with a good view of the sky and leave it on
It could take 20 minutes or more initially.
Exactly what model is it.
Ron Lee
At 04:17 PM 2/10/2006, you wrote:
>
>I recently purchased an older used Lowrance GPS, it's the 5 channel
>"Airmap" predecessor to the Airmap 300. It is 8 years old but in like
>new condition with little obvious signs of use. The computer and
>database functions work fine but (and its a big but) the GPS will not
>lock on to give a position.
>
>Lowrance sort of understandably declines to support stuff that is this
>old. So does anyone know of a source for Lowrance repairs or upgrades or
>of a web site with advice of keeping older Lowrance equipment going? I
>am thinking of opening the case to reseat the connectors, etc.
>
>Thanks to anyone who can assist. It's a nice unit and would be a shame
>to just toss it in the trash.
>
>(I realize this is not hard RV stuff but I did buy the GPS to use in my
>-6A so it is relevant to RV flight ops.)
>
>Jim Oke
>RV-6A C-GKGZ
>Wpg., MB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
Hi gang,
The current explanations of the vernatherm have been the best in several
years. This subject always comes up in cold weather, and several of our
listers really do know how it works. Todays posts from Jeff Dowling and
Dave Bristol seem to explain the operation of the v/t properly and concisely.
I would like to add a bit of information if I may. I don't remember the RV
type of the original posters question, but if it was an RV-4 ...... What
else can I say. Every RV-4 wants to run at ~ 120 -130 deg. in the winter.
On a miserable, hot summer day, we are lucky to see 195-200 deg. The very
tight cowling on the -4 is overkill to the cooler, and the explanation
about the bypassing of the oil seems to explain and confirm why the --4's
oil temp is so low. I have had several RV-4's and have seen and performed
several experiments. My current -4 has its cooler mounted to the rear
baffle, and has a controllable flap on the rear(exhaust side) of the
cooler. This has never, never worked well. In fact, it doesn't work at all.
Because at normal flying speed, the air pressure entering the intake side
of the cooler is so strong, it pushes the flap open a millimeter or two.
This is enough to over-cool the oil. HOWEVER, on both my -4's the solution
that always works is to partially or completely cover over the intake side
of the cooler.
PS Thanks Jeff and Dave.
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for Lycoming parts on-line |
I just finished an IO-540 rebuild a few weeks ago. I used
http://www.aircraft-specialties.com/ to do my crank
balancing/certification and inspection of steel parts. I found that
their on-line catalog is about the best available, but A.E.R.O. had very
slightly better overall prices for new and used engine parts, and
noticably better in-stock status for the parts I needed.
A.E.R.O. is at http://www.a-e-r-o.com. I worked with Jesse at the
Granite City office.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
RV6 Flyer wrote:
>
>
> Where can one buy Lycoming Parts on line? Did a Google search and not much
> luck finding an outfit that can cross-reference old part numbers to new and
> has a web site that you can order from.
>
> It looks like I have to do it the old fashioned way, pick up the phone, and
> call.
>
> I did find what I was looking for. (Studs to mount a mag.) Want spares in
> case I break one when I install my new P-Mags.
>
> It appears that there is a lack of new Lycoming part vendors on the
> internet. Wonder is it has anything to do with UnApproved Parts getting
> into the system.
>
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,839 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone know of a good place |
Any chance you were a F-4G jock or EWO? I worked ECM on the Wild Weasels at George
AFB, CA 1978-82. I built and now fly a W-10 Wittman Tailwind, Ona Airpark
WV (12V). Not sure where you are flying from, but KPMH at Portsmouth OH is a favorite
spot for our locals.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Aircraft/avionics wiring schematic software |
Listers,
I am beginning work on the electrical system and avionics for an RV-7.
As a result, I'm looking for information regarding what software
packages are available to develop schematics and any feedback pertaining
to use would also be helpful.
Best regards,
Bill Gill
Lee's Summit, MO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft/avionics wiring schematic software |
In a message dated 2/11/2006 7:39:35 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
wgill10(at)comcast.net writes:
I am beginning work on the electrical system and avionics for an RV-7.
As a result, I'm looking for information regarding what software
packages are available to develop schematics and any feedback pertaining
to use would also be helpful.
===========================================
The Nuckolls stuff was done in AutoCAD and so is mine. If you choose this
way, I will be happy to give you a file of mine.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lowrance GPS Tecnical Help |
Lowrance will giv you up to $225 towards a new unit that you can buy from a
discounter such as Flight Essentials.com
Ollie
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lowrance GPS Tecnical Help
>
> Jim,
>
> I have one of those Lowarnce models and it works just fine....have it
> connected to the Nav Aid wing leveler to fly a flight plan, tho' I now use
> an AnywhereMap with a modern PDA, but keep the Lowarnce as back up...I
> found
> that the antenna placement is fairly fussy on the Lowrance...if everything
> else is OK, try moving the antenna to various locations...if you still
> have
> the "flip up" cover- antenna connected, you might try removing it and
> using
> the remote feature to let the antenna get a better view of the sky.
>
> John
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
> To:
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lowrance GPS Tecnical Help |
www.flightessentials.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lowrance GPS Tecnical Help
>
> Lowrance will giv you up to $225 towards a new unit that you can buy from
> a
> discounter such as Flight Essentials.com
> Ollie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 6:59 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lowrance GPS Tecnical Help
>
>
>>
>> Jim,
>>
>> I have one of those Lowarnce models and it works just fine....have it
>> connected to the Nav Aid wing leveler to fly a flight plan, tho' I now
>> use
>> an AnywhereMap with a modern PDA, but keep the Lowarnce as back up...I
>> found
>> that the antenna placement is fairly fussy on the Lowrance...if
>> everything
>> else is OK, try moving the antenna to various locations...if you still
>> have
>> the "flip up" cover- antenna connected, you might try removing it and
>> using
>> the remote feature to let the antenna get a better view of the sky.
>>
>> John
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
>> To:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Aircraft/avionics wiring schematic software |
Yes, I'm interested in the CAD file. Thanks.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Vanremog(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft/avionics wiring schematic software
In a message dated 2/11/2006 7:39:35 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
wgill10(at)comcast.net writes:
I am beginning work on the electrical system and avionics for an RV-7.
As a result, I'm looking for information regarding what software
packages are available to develop schematics and any feedback
pertaining
to use would also be helpful.
===========================================
The Nuckolls stuff was done in AutoCAD and so is mine. If you choose
this
way, I will be happy to give you a file of mine.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | How cheep can we get? (engine pre-heat) |
Howdy all- every now & again I have a brain fart that I'd just like to share-
pretty darn attractrive, eh?
go:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/?q=tips/tricks
Whut the heck from The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How cheep can we get? (engine pre-heat) |
Interesting set up indeed! I have been using a simular process, only I use a Heat
gun which puts out about 3 times the heat, and poke it in same place, takes
just a few min and can feel the warm air comming out the front. Charlie H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "REHughes" <hawk(at)digisys.net> |
| Subject: | Hooker Harness Group Buy |
I may have missed some pertinent messages, but I wanted to be sure that the RV-List
members knew about a group buy from Hooker Harnesses. This was put together
by Wade Lively (an RV-8 builder) over on Doug Reeves VAF site.
http://www.vansairforce.net/
On the left side of the VAF Home Page, go down to 'Today's Posts' under the FORUMS
section, and pull up the thread titled "Group Discount on 5-Point Hooker Harnesses'
to get all the information.
The pricing is very attractive. The offer is strictly limited to RV/Rocket owners
and builders.
The deadline for responding to Wade is Noon Feb 18. Be sure and read the whole
thread to make sure you are receiving the latest information.
Hawkeye Hughes
Skyote, RV-3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <neal(at)appaero.com> |
| Subject: | Parking Brake Valve |
Gentlemen -
I have a Matco PV-1 Parking Brake Valve from Van's that I have decided
not to use.
New, in the box, never been mounted.
$110 delivered.
Neal (at) appaero (dot) com
244 Andrews Street
Maxwell AFB, AL 36113
Home - 334-262-8993
Cell - 334-546-2033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | How cheep can we get? (engine pre-heat) |
Mark,
I thought I was cheap, but you got me there. We used to use 2 100W trouble
lites stuffed inside the cowling on all the time winters in OR, and they keep
temp right at 60+. Don't use the ones with the plastic guard, however, they
DO melt... This winter I had an extra oil-filled radiator not using, so
planted that baby on a shop creeper, and the height works out perfectly, easy
to
roll in and out of just behind the ex pipes. At the lowest setting it's using
about 300W and keeps inside cowling toasty with a blanket on top. No waiting
for warmup when flying time arrives, either... I do feel bad about the the
$300/mo hangar having to absorb the power bill...
Jerry
... in sunny Oregon
Subject: RV-List: How cheep can we get? (engine pre-heat)
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Howdy all- every now & again I have a brain fart that I'd just like to
share-
pretty darn attractrive, eh?
go:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/?q=tips/tricks
Whut the heck from The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jan <jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Operating angle - RV6 Electric Trim |
Hi,
If I understand all the different things I have read about the Electric Trim
kit for the RV6 ... The operating angles are less due to the limited travel
by the MAC 8A servo ... I am currently busy laying it all out... So before I
commit myself to the installation ...
I would like to hear first hand from anyone who does fly with the electric
trim kit (with the servo in the elevator) ... What angles are needed to
operate safely ??
When you did cut the hole in the spar for the rod at the back of the servo
...You must have got quite close to one of the rivets used to secure the
elevator horn to the spar ... How close ??
Appreciate any feedback on this.
Jan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <3edcft6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How cheep can we get? (engine pre-heat) |
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
>I liked the AC idea also- all I'm missing is the
>compressor/evaporator/condensor & environmentally responsible freon
>
I thought the RV's already had AC, just open the vents, open the
throttle, and pull back on the stick for 10 min or so and it should
start to cool off just fine :)
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jimmy Hill" <hillstw(at)jhill.biz> |
In changing computers I have lost the excellent weather site that one of you RV'ers
developed. (the one which shows current weather along any selected route)
Could someone please give me the site again?
Thanks.
Jimmy RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mannan J. Thomason" <mannanj(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: weather site |
www.rvproject,com/wx/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimmy Hill" <hillstw(at)jhill.biz>
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: weather site
>
> In changing computers I have lost the excellent weather site that one of
> you RV'ers developed. (the one which shows current weather along any
> selected route)
>
> Could someone please give me the site again?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jimmy RV8A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mannan J. Thomason" <mannanj(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: weather site |
Oops, typed a comma "stead' of a dot
www.rvproject.com/wx/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mannan J. Thomason" <mannanj(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: weather site
>
> www.rvproject,com/wx/
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jimmy Hill" <hillstw(at)jhill.biz>
> To: "rv-list"
> Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 6:04 PM
> Subject: RV-List: weather site
>
>
>>
>> In changing computers I have lost the excellent weather site that one of
>> you RV'ers developed. (the one which shows current weather along any
>> selected route)
>>
>> Could someone please give me the site again?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Jimmy RV8A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Operating angle - RV6 Electric Trim |
Jan,
I have the MAC 8A servo in the elevator and don't remember having any
problems with the installation. It works as advertised. I have not had
any troubles with it at all and have never run out of trim authority.
It's an RV6 with O-360 and Hartzell CS, which moves the CG forward and
will affect the trim.
Dave -6 So Cal (85 deg today, no preheaters here!)
Jan wrote:
>
>Hi,
>
>If I understand all the different things I have read about the Electric Trim
>kit for the RV6 ... The operating angles are less due to the limited travel
>by the MAC 8A servo ... I am currently busy laying it all out... So before I
>commit myself to the installation ...
>
>I would like to hear first hand from anyone who does fly with the electric
>trim kit (with the servo in the elevator) ... What angles are needed to
>operate safely ??
>
>When you did cut the hole in the spar for the rod at the back of the servo
>...You must have got quite close to one of the rivets used to secure the
>elevator horn to the spar ... How close ??
>
>Appreciate any feedback on this.
>
>Jan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | FOR SALE: Blue Mountain EFIS/One |
I'm posting this for a friend...
New ***Blue Mountain EFIS/One*** for sale.
Save over $1000!!! Details here:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=34256
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How cheep can we get? (engine pre-heat) |
Keep in mind that heat guns and hair driers can make sparks...
Dave
charles heathco wrote:
>
>Interesting set up indeed! I have been using a simular process, only I use a Heat
gun which puts out about 3 times the heat, and poke it in same place, takes
just a few min and can feel the warm air comming out the front. Charlie H
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Operating angle - RV6 Electric Trim |
Jan,
I agree with Dave - the Matronics' servo has worked well since our 1st
flight in 2001.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Operating angle - RV6 Electric Trim
>Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 17:46:02 -0800
>
>
>Jan,
>
>I have the MAC 8A servo in the elevator and don't remember having any
>problems with the installation. It works as advertised. I have not had
>any troubles with it at all and have never run out of trim authority.
>It's an RV6 with O-360 and Hartzell CS, which moves the CG forward and
>will affect the trim.
>
>Dave -6 So Cal (85 deg today, no preheaters here!)
>
>
>Jan wrote:
>
> >
> >Hi,
> >
> >If I understand all the different things I have read about the Electric
>Trim
> >kit for the RV6 ... The operating angles are less due to the limited
>travel
> >by the MAC 8A servo ... I am currently busy laying it all out... So
>before I
> >commit myself to the installation ...
> >
> >I would like to hear first hand from anyone who does fly with the
>electric
> >trim kit (with the servo in the elevator) ... What angles are needed to
> >operate safely ??
> >
> >When you did cut the hole in the spar for the rod at the back of the
>servo
> >...You must have got quite close to one of the rivets used to secure the
> >elevator horn to the spar ... How close ??
> >
> >Appreciate any feedback on this.
> >
> >Jan
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft/avionics wiring schematic software |
I used the Express SCH software for circuit documentation. It is free,
easy to learn and works well. Here is the URL:.
http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/Free_schematic_software.htm
Leland
In a message dated 2/11/2006 7:39:35 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
wgill10(at)comcast.net writes:
I am beginning work on the electrical system and avionics for an RV-7.
As a result, I'm looking for information regarding what software
packages are available to develop schematics and any feedback
pertaining
to use would also be helpful.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Governor for Whirlwind Prop |
Thanks Randy,
Finally got hold of the WW folks who said the same thing as you did.
Ordered a new Jihostroj from them.
Interestingly, the folks at Van's insisted their MT governor should
work.
Thanks for the reply.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-----------------------------------------------------
> From: "Randy Lervold"
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor for Whirlwind Prop
>
>
> > WW recommends the Jihostroj P920 which sells for approx $1,250. Van
> > sells the MT P860-4 governor (also made by Jihostroj) for $1050.
> >
> > Will Van's MT governor work on a WW 150-151 prop which requires a
> > pressure of 450-475 PSI? Do MT props require the same high pressure to
> > operate?
>
> Due to a smaller piston in the hub the WW 150-151 require the governor
> pressure to be in the 425 psi range rather than the 325-350 range. WW buys
> the Jihostroj governors specially modified for the higher pressure,
> therefore the MT version won't work for the WW 150-151.
>
> Randy Lervold
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Another Source For AHRS for RVs? |
Those still looking for a solid state AHRS unit might want to pay a
visit to <http://www.stratomaster.uk.com/>.
Click on "products" then the "maxi-singles" item. Quite a wide line of
instruments from AHRS with or without heading, digital altimeters,
airspeeds, engine instruments, engine monitors and the like.
Can any PFA members comment on the quality, utility, etc. of this
company's offerings?
Jim Oke
RV-3 & -6A
Wpg., MB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sanding canopy plexy edges |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Got my feet wet with the canopy cutting this weekend. I'm sure
my hand will get steadier with the cutoff wheel as I get
experience, but my edges are quite rough. Sanding them smooth
by hand is beyond tedious - it will take me the rest of the year.
Is it OK to use an electrical orbital sander ? I'm a bit
worried that the orbital motion might crack or chip the plexy.
Would it be better to use a belt sander ? What have others used ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Sanding canopy plexy edges |
I did mine with a belt sander. Worked fine.
Terry
Got my feet wet with the canopy cutting this weekend. I'm sure
my hand will get steadier with the cutoff wheel as I get
experience, but my edges are quite rough. Sanding them smooth
by hand is beyond tedious - it will take me the rest of the year.
Is it OK to use an electrical orbital sander ? I'm a bit
worried that the orbital motion might crack or chip the plexy.
Would it be better to use a belt sander ? What have others used ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Sanding canopy plexy edges |
>
> I did mine with a belt sander. Worked fine.
>
> Terry
There needs to be a caution here. If the edge is heated a bit too much, it
will attempt to expand, and since it is now softer, it will relieve itself
to a low stress condition. As the edge cools, it will be put into tension
as it "hardens" and tries to shrink. This tension will remain permanently
in the edge, potentially a bad thing.
However you finish the edge, make sure it is not getting warm to the touch.
Plexi has a very large coefficient of thermal expansion.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 714 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sanding canopy plexy edges |
I used a hand block. Start with 60 grit and work finer. Dosent take that
long if your inital was pretty straight.
Dave Leonard
On 2/13/06, Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
> Got my feet wet with the canopy cutting this weekend. I'm sure
> my hand will get steadier with the cutoff wheel as I get
> experience, but my edges are quite rough. Sanding them smooth
> by hand is beyond tedious - it will take me the rest of the year.
>
> Is it OK to use an electrical orbital sander ? I'm a bit
> worried that the orbital motion might crack or chip the plexy.
> Would it be better to use a belt sander ? What have others used ?
>
> __g__
>
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Gold" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
e-book downloads are now available on Builder's Bookstore.
Builder's Bookstore gives you a choice of receiving books either as
traditional paper books shipped by UPS or mail, or as an instant internet
download into your computer.
This new feature will be a great benefit to international customers who no
longer have to pay huge shipping costs or wait weeks for their orders. Our
e-Book formats are full size, full color .pdf documents. Download times
average 5 minutes for a 200 page book over a medium speed non-dialup
connection. Successful downloads and image quality is guaranteed.
A Free sample download of Aircraft Propeller Maintenance is available on
this page.
http://www.buildersbooks.com/all_about_ebooks.htm
Try it and see if you like receiving books in this way.
Items currently available as e-books are:
24 Years of the RVator
Aeroelectric Connection
Construction of Steel Tube Fuselages
How to Paint Your Own Airplane
Composite Basics & How To Cover an Aircraft will be available in 2-3 days,
with many more coming in the next few weeks.
Andy Gold
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
970 887-2207
--always on the edge of customer service and today's technology
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | i39 Flyin Feb. 25th. Let's push 100 again |
OK, the final plans are underway for this years flyin. As attendees from
the last two flyin's can attest, this is just a down home hangout kinda
flyin. No vendors, no forum, no tickets to buy, no stucture at all, just a
ton of RV's (we've pushed 100 the last two years) along with the biggest
hits (plural) two Hooters girls with 1000 wings. Again, the lunch is free,
donations accepted and please tip (money only) the Hooters Girls. We will
have free coffee and donuts to start the day off, again free but donations
accepted. Start time is light thirty, close is dark thirty.
For those who fly in, watch the army depot on the east side of i39. If you
drive in (yes, people actually drive in from as far away an Michigan), get
off on exit 77, make a right then a right between the BP and Shelll, then
follow the signs.
We are once again looking forward to a wonderful formation flight
demonstation from FFI cardholding members of TeamRV and OVRVators. Look for
another Oshkosh quality demonstation.
AnywhereMap is again the lead sponsor. We will once again be giving away
the entire system, no hardware, at the end of the flyin. Van's also is
donating along with Cleaveland Tool, Avery Tool. I will post additional
door prize donations as they hit the door.
Put is on your calander, I'm looking forward to another great flyin.
My cell is 859 625-2844, home is 859 369-7582.
Comfort Suites
859 624-0770
Next to Cracker Barrel
Hampton Inn
859 626-1002
Next to Bob Evans
Holiday Inn Express & Suites
859 624-4088
Walking distance Bob Evans
Best Western
859 623-9220
Same as above
Jameson Inn
859 623-0063
Bob Evans shares parking lot
La Quinta
859 623-9121
Near Cracker Barrel
Ramada Limited
859 626-8676
Same as above
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sanding canopy plexy edges |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
gerf(at)gerf.com wrote:
> Sanding them smooth by hand is beyond tedious - it will take me the rest of
the year......What have others used ?
>
Gerry,
I used this specially designed hand tool to "scrape" the edges of the plexiglass smooth and renders an almost polished like quality with not too much effort in a relatively short amount of time. Any remaining scratches on the edge surface can then (if required) be easily blended out with 600 (or finer) grit paper. I think you just may find this tool to be a real timesaver. http://tinyurl.com/7aozs
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=12047#12047
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sanding canopy plexy edges |
For what it's worth I used a Vixen file to smooth away the cutting marks and
then used a sanding block and progressively finer grit sandpaper to finish
the job.
Steve Soule
N227RV RV-6A 390 hours
-----Original Message-----
Gerry,
I used this specially designed hand tool to "scrape" the edges of the
plexiglass smooth and renders an almost polished like quality with not too
much effort in a relatively short amount of time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NEW BLUE MOUNTAIN EFIS LITE G4 |
| From: | "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com> |
I just received my March issue of Kitplanes and saw the Blue Mountain Avionics
ad. It appears that the Lite and Lite Plus will have 3-D terrain at the same
price as the G3. I immediately went to their website but didn't find any information
on the new models. Does anyone know of any online information on the
G4?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sanding canopy plexy edges |
I used a standard 1" paint scraper, but with the edge ground flat so the barb formed
by the grinding process does a nice job of shaving off the rough edges.
Use a scrap piece of plexi to test it. The result I got was that looking straight
into the shaved edge, it is nice and translucent. Worked great!
Henry Hore, -6A, C-GELS (Tip-up, Sold)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Spamblocker problem - Matt please read |
On 5:51:34 2006-02-14 "Alex Peterson" wrote:
> Very recently, my earthlink spamblocker began blocking messages sent
> to me from the matronics lists, but only those that I post to the
> lists. Everyone else's gets through no problem.
> ...
> Is anyone else having this problem? Any ideas Matt?
How about setting a rule in your email program that saves a copy into your
"RV-List" folder when you send it? That way you get a copy stored locally,
and you can let your spam filter do whatever it wants to with the other
copy.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sanding canopy plexy edges |
I used a standard 1" paint scraper, but with the scraping edge ground flat so that
a barb is formed that will do the scraping function. Use a piece of scrap
plexi to test it. On my Tip-up, all the finished edges were translucent when looking
straight into them.-Worked great!
Henry Hore, -6A, C-GELS (Sold, for med. reasons).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin 296/396 plug |
The cigarette lighter adapter plug for my Garmin 296 pulled apart. This
is the connector that plugs into the Garmin. Has anyone else had this
problem and solved it shy of buying a new $30 adapter from Garmin? The
plug fits pretty tightly and I fear that a new plug would just pull
apart again.
Leland
RV9A
73 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 296/396 plug |
Yes, mine came apart too. Garmin gave me another one, gratis.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
831-722-9141
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Leland
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 9:39 AM
Subject: SPAM: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 plug
The cigarette lighter adapter plug for my Garmin 296 pulled apart. This is
the connector that plugs into the Garmin. Has anyone else had this problem
and solved it shy of buying a new $30 adapter from Garmin? The plug fits
pretty tightly and I fear that a new plug would just pull apart again.
Leland
RV9A
73 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sanding canopy plexy edges |
Gerry,
A process that worked will for me, with out the danger of getting the plexi too
warm, was to use a scraper. I made a scraper with a curved working edge from
a piece of .040 aluminum. The metal edges in the working area are left rather
sharp and the scraper is pulled along the edge of the plexi. Found this to remove
material faster than block sanding. Takes a little practice to get the right
technique.The curved edge vs. a flat edge was used to give the plexi a more
finished edge. Final finish was with sanding.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin 296/396 plug |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
It has only happened to me TWICE!
I contacted Garmin re: the very poor design and they have had problems
with many customers. I think they sent me a free replacement and I think
I also purchased one on ebay at a discount.
The solution to this is to grab very close to the body with enough
pressure and be focused on what you are doing with a light wiggle and
direct pull. This will extend the life of the plug but will not solve
the problem. It is just a poor design.
Robin
RV-6A 250 hours, 2 Garmin cords (so far)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin 296/396 plug |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
My low tech solution is never take the plug out, or at least as
rarely as possible :)
g
>
>
> It has only happened to me TWICE!
> I contacted Garmin re: the very poor design and they have had problems
> with many customers. I think they sent me a free replacement and I think
> I also purchased one on ebay at a discount.
> The solution to this is to grab very close to the body with enough
> pressure and be focused on what you are doing with a light wiggle and
> direct pull. This will extend the life of the plug but will not solve
> the problem. It is just a poor design.
>
> Robin
> RV-6A 250 hours, 2 Garmin cords (so far)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NEW BLUE MOUNTAIN EFIS LITE G4 |
| From: | "N395V" <N395V(at)direcway.com> |
Look Here
--------
Milt
N395V
F1 Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=12179#12179
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: i39 Flyin Feb. 25th. Let's push 100 again |
Dana,
Where is the fly in?
Dick Marti
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 6:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: i39 Flyin Feb. 25th. Let's push 100 again
>
> OK, the final plans are underway for this years flyin. As attendees from
> the last two flyin's can attest, this is just a down home hangout kinda
> flyin. No vendors, no forum, no tickets to buy, no stucture at all, just
> a
> ton of RV's (we've pushed 100 the last two years) along with the biggest
> hits (plural) two Hooters girls with 1000 wings. Again, the lunch is
> free,
> donations accepted and please tip (money only) the Hooters Girls. We will
> have free coffee and donuts to start the day off, again free but donations
> accepted. Start time is light thirty, close is dark thirty.
>
> For those who fly in, watch the army depot on the east side of i39. If
> you
> drive in (yes, people actually drive in from as far away an Michigan), get
> off on exit 77, make a right then a right between the BP and Shelll, then
> follow the signs.
>
> We are once again looking forward to a wonderful formation flight
> demonstation from FFI cardholding members of TeamRV and OVRVators. Look
> for
> another Oshkosh quality demonstation.
>
> AnywhereMap is again the lead sponsor. We will once again be giving away
> the entire system, no hardware, at the end of the flyin. Van's also is
> donating along with Cleaveland Tool, Avery Tool. I will post additional
> door prize donations as they hit the door.
>
> Put is on your calander, I'm looking forward to another great flyin.
>
> My cell is 859 625-2844, home is 859 369-7582.
>
>
> Comfort Suites
> 859 624-0770
> Next to Cracker Barrel
>
> Hampton Inn
> 859 626-1002
> Next to Bob Evans
>
> Holiday Inn Express & Suites
> 859 624-4088
> Walking distance Bob Evans
>
>
> Best Western
> 859 623-9220
> Same as above
>
> Jameson Inn
> 859 623-0063
> Bob Evans shares parking lot
>
> La Quinta
> 859 623-9121
> Near Cracker Barrel
>
> Ramada Limited
> 859 626-8676
> Same as above
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
Cc: "Steve Eberhart"
| Subject: | Re: i39 Flyin Feb. 25th. Let's push 100 again |
Steve Eberhart and I plan to be there if weather permits safe travel. Will
arrive early. Wheelpants are set low and need a smooth parking spot. Get
the hooter girls warmed up. Tell Elaine we are coming. Get the whole
airport ready. We might bring some others from our EAA 21 group along too.
Dana, if you can just get the things right with the man controlling the
weather -- and -- and the hooter girls. AND We want some krispy kreme
donuts too. Sure, we will chip in something to help you keep from loosing
your shirt. Lets just pray for good weather.
Indiana Larry, RV7 SunSeeker 85+ hours flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 6:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: i39 Flyin Feb. 25th. Let's push 100 again
>
> OK, the final plans are underway for this years flyin. As attendees from
> the last two flyin's can attest, this is just a down home hangout kinda
> flyin. No vendors, no forum, no tickets to buy, no stucture at all, just
> a
> ton of RV's (we've pushed 100 the last two years) along with the biggest
> hits (plural) two Hooters girls with 1000 wings. Again, the lunch is
> free,
> donations accepted and please tip (money only) the Hooters Girls. We will
> have free coffee and donuts to start the day off, again free but donations
> accepted. Start time is light thirty, close is dark thirty.
snip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: i39 Flyin Feb. 25th. Let's push 100 again |
Dick, look on the subject line:-) i39 Richmond/Madison Co. Hope to see all
here.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>From: "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: i39 Flyin Feb. 25th. Let's push 100 again
>Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 20:58:21 -0600
>
>
>Dana,
>
>Where is the fly in?
>
>Dick Marti
>RV8 N233M
>the fast one
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 6:05 AM
>Subject: RV-List: i39 Flyin Feb. 25th. Let's push 100 again
>
>
> >
> > OK, the final plans are underway for this years flyin. As attendees
>from
> > the last two flyin's can attest, this is just a down home hangout kinda
> > flyin. No vendors, no forum, no tickets to buy, no stucture at all,
>just
> > a
> > ton of RV's (we've pushed 100 the last two years) along with the biggest
> > hits (plural) two Hooters girls with 1000 wings. Again, the lunch is
> > free,
> > donations accepted and please tip (money only) the Hooters Girls. We
>will
> > have free coffee and donuts to start the day off, again free but
>donations
> > accepted. Start time is light thirty, close is dark thirty.
> >
> > For those who fly in, watch the army depot on the east side of i39. If
> > you
> > drive in (yes, people actually drive in from as far away an Michigan),
>get
> > off on exit 77, make a right then a right between the BP and Shelll,
>then
> > follow the signs.
> >
> > We are once again looking forward to a wonderful formation flight
> > demonstation from FFI cardholding members of TeamRV and OVRVators. Look
> > for
> > another Oshkosh quality demonstation.
> >
> > AnywhereMap is again the lead sponsor. We will once again be giving
>away
> > the entire system, no hardware, at the end of the flyin. Van's also is
> > donating along with Cleaveland Tool, Avery Tool. I will post additional
> > door prize donations as they hit the door.
> >
> > Put is on your calander, I'm looking forward to another great flyin.
> >
> > My cell is 859 625-2844, home is 859 369-7582.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Comfort Suites
> > 859 624-0770
> > Next to Cracker Barrel
> >
> > Hampton Inn
> > 859 626-1002
> > Next to Bob Evans
> >
> > Holiday Inn Express & Suites
> > 859 624-4088
> > Walking distance Bob Evans
> >
> >
> > Best Western
> > 859 623-9220
> > Same as above
> >
> > Jameson Inn
> > 859 623-0063
> > Bob Evans shares parking lot
> >
> > La Quinta
> > 859 623-9121
> > Near Cracker Barrel
> >
> > Ramada Limited
> > 859 626-8676
> > Same as above
> >
> >
> > Dana Overall
> > Richmond, KY i39
> > RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor Mills" <millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au> |
I have started to build my own tip tanks and would like to know how/what/where
of tank vents. or maybe what the Van's ones have got ?
Thanks
Trevor Mills 80605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | i39 Flyin Feb. 25th. Let's push 100 again |
>From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
>
>
>OK, now we are getting close. What state?
>
>Terry
OK Terry, this is turning into something like "Where's Waldo":-)
Let's go here i39......... http://www.airnav.com/airport/I39 tranlates into
Richmond, Kentucky, 20 miles south of Lexington, KY pretty much smack dab in
the middle of a two hour flight from something like 27-28 states. Sorry,
couldn't resist:-) Comon' down, over, up or whatever.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
IIRC, the tiptank vents for the tanks that Vans sells (Johannsen made them for
Vans) were integrated in to the inboard wall of the tanks just forward of the
fuel cap and stuck out the bottom about 1/2" with a forward facing angle cut to
pressurize the vents...made of 1/4" alum tube.
I have a set and have plumbed them into the existing wing tanks.
Contact me directly, and I can get you some photos......
-----Original Message-----
>From: Trevor Mills <millstrj(at)ozemail.com.au>
>Sent: Feb 15, 2006 6:18 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Tip Tanks
>
>
>I have started to build my own tip tanks and would like to know how/what/where
of tank vents. or maybe what the Van's ones have got ?
>
>Thanks
>
>Trevor Mills 80605
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Electric Attitude Gyro |
For Sale: Electric Attitude Gyro
One Ray Allen RCA26AK-4 rebuilt by Kelly Manufacturing Company 1/10/2006. I
have all documentation and it is under warrantee till 1/10/2007.
$1,200 or best offer.
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
704-362-0005
willfly(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Electric Attitude Gyro |
For Sale: Electric Attitude Gyro
One Ray Allen RCA26AK-4 rebuilt by Kelly Manufacturing Company 1/10/2006. I have
all documentation and it is under warrantee till 1/10/2007.
$1,200 or best offer.
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
704-362-0005
willfly(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale: Electric Attitude Gyro |
guess I should have read Electric!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Steve Glasgow <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
>Sent: Feb 15, 2006 8:53 AM
>To: RV-List Digest Server
>Subject: RV-List: For Sale: Electric Attitude Gyro
>
>
>For Sale: Electric Attitude Gyro
>
>
>One Ray Allen RCA26AK-4 rebuilt by Kelly Manufacturing Company 1/10/2006. I
>have all documentation and it is under warrantee till 1/10/2007.
>
>
>$1,200 or best offer.
>
>
>Steve Glasgow-Cappy
>N123SG RV-8
>Cappy's Toy
>704-362-0005
>willfly(at)carolina.rr.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale: Electric Attitude Gyro |
Is it Electric?
Is it lighted?
Is it set up for 8 degree panel tilt?
-----Original Message-----
>From: Steve Glasgow <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
>Sent: Feb 15, 2006 8:53 AM
>To: RV-List Digest Server
>Subject: RV-List: For Sale: Electric Attitude Gyro
>
>
>For Sale: Electric Attitude Gyro
>
>
>One Ray Allen RCA26AK-4 rebuilt by Kelly Manufacturing Company 1/10/2006. I
>have all documentation and it is under warrantee till 1/10/2007.
>
>
>$1,200 or best offer.
>
>
>Steve Glasgow-Cappy
>N123SG RV-8
>Cappy's Toy
>704-362-0005
>willfly(at)carolina.rr.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | vernatherm success |
I have a friend who has been fighting high oil temps since day one. He has
relocated the oil cooler, and checked the operation of the vernatherm by
heating it in boiling water and checking the seat. Nothing has seemed to
helped the situation. I am wondering if there is anyone out there who cured
their oil temp woes by replacing the vernatherm. The one he has seems to
operate correctly, but who knows if it may be getting stuck. I'm just
trying to get an idea of the success rate of lowering oil temps by simply
replacing the vernatherm.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | vernatherm or vernitherm success |
Bob:
Not sure of the spelling. Found both when I did an internet search so I am
adding both ways of spelling to the subject.
I know of one airplane that replacing the vernatherm fixed the problem.
Try this link for story and photos of good vrs bad vernitherm :
http://www.rvproject.com/20050409.html
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,839 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: vernatherm success
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 09:30:17 -0500
I have a friend who has been fighting high oil temps since day one. He has
relocated the oil cooler, and checked the operation of the vernatherm by
heating it in boiling water and checking the seat. Nothing has seemed to
helped the situation. I am wondering if there is anyone out there who cured
their oil temp woes by replacing the vernatherm. The one he has seems to
operate correctly, but who knows if it may be getting stuck. I'm just
trying to get an idea of the success rate of lowering oil temps by simply
replacing the vernatherm.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Spamblocker problem - Matt please read |
On 19:08:54 2006-02-14 "Alex Peterson" wrote:
> > How about setting a rule in your email program that saves a
> > copy into your "RV-List" folder when you send it? That way
> > you get a copy stored locally, and you can let your spam
> > filter do whatever it wants to with the other copy.
>
> Rob, these are getting snagged at the Earthlink server, not my
> outlook.
Yes, I know... The thought was to have Outlook just save a copy of what
you've sent to the list, *before* it leaves your computer. We're all
getting the posts to the 'list, it's just earthlink that's being silly and
preventing them getting back to you.
My solution was to keep a copy before earthlink sees it, and then let
earthlink do whatever it wants to when it comes back from the 'list.
I know, it shouldn't have to work that way, but it might be easier than
getting Earthlink to change how they block email... :)
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vernatherm or vernitherm success |
Thanks Gary, that was exactly what I was looking for.
Regards,
Bob
On 2/15/06, RV6 Flyer wrote:
>
>
> Bob:
>
> Not sure of the spelling. Found both when I did an internet search so I
> am
> adding both ways of spelling to the subject.
>
> I know of one airplane that replacing the vernatherm fixed the problem.
>
> Try this link for story and photos of good vrs bad vernitherm :
> http://www.rvproject.com/20050409.html
>
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,839 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vernatherm success |
At 07:30 AM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
>
>I have a friend who has been fighting high oil temps since day one. He has
>relocated the oil cooler, and checked the operation of the vernatherm by
>heating it in boiling water and checking the seat. Nothing has seemed to
>helped the situation. I am wondering if there is anyone out there who cured
>their oil temp woes by replacing the vernatherm.
I have no vernatherm but fought high oil temps. I solved it by reducing
cabin heat hose clutter, opening the bottom cowl to let air out better
and adding cowl louvers. Best recollection is that it dropped the oil temp
40 deg F or so.
http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/Cowl_Louver_Small.jpg
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: Garmin 296/396 plug |
Great input. I just called Garmin and they are sending me a warranty replacement
Cigarette Lighter Adapter. They even offered to send it 2-day air. Garmin is
working on the problem and I may possibly receive one with an improved plug.
Leland
Yes, mine came apart too. Garmin gave me another one, gratis.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
831-722-9141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
A Google search turned up this website for the company that makes the
Vernatherm, there's some good info there.
http://www.rostravernatherm.com/index.htm
Also, some good high temp troubleshooting information at Sacramento Sky
Ranch:
http://www.sacskyranch.com/eng18.htm
Dave B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jared davis <jsd41(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | ELT MOUNTING ARROW |
Lister's
I received my ACK E-01 ELT today to be installed in my RV6-A. The installation
manual said the ELT need to be mounted with the arrow on the case pointed in
the direction of flight.
I know I have seen many of them mounted vertical (the arrow pointed up). Can
it be mounted vertical???
Thanks
Jerry Davis Glen Carbon.Ill (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | ELT MOUNTING ARROW |
Not unless you plan on crashing upside down. Arrow forward is necessary to
orientate the G- switch in the proper way.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jared davis
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 7:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: ELT MOUNTING ARROW
Lister's
I received my ACK E-01 ELT today to be installed in my RV6-A. The
installation manual said the ELT need to be mounted with the arrow on the
case pointed in the direction of flight.
I know I have seen many of them mounted vertical (the arrow pointed up).
Can it be mounted vertical???
Thanks
Jerry Davis Glen Carbon.Ill (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: ELT MOUNTING ARROW |
The arrow on the ELT indicates the direction in which the ELT will respond to a
rapid deceleration, i.e., a crash. If you plan to have all crashes belly first
than point the arrow up, otherwise it might be better to follow the manufacturers
directions. Just a suggestion.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 181 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Jared davis <jsd41(at)sbcglobal.net>
>
> Lister's
> I received my ACK E-01 ELT today to be installed in my RV6-A. The
> installation manual said the ELT need to be mounted with the arrow on the case
> pointed in the direction of flight.
> I know I have seen many of them mounted vertical (the arrow pointed up). Can
> it be mounted vertical???
> Thanks
> Jerry Davis Glen Carbon.Ill (almost done)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT MOUNTING ARROW |
It can be mounted any way you like, but it will only WORK if the arrow
is forward. :-)
Dave
Jared davis wrote:
>
>Lister's
> I received my ACK E-01 ELT today to be installed in my RV6-A. The installation
manual said the ELT need to be mounted with the arrow on the case pointed
in the direction of flight.
> I know I have seen many of them mounted vertical (the arrow pointed up). Can
it be mounted vertical???
> Thanks
> Jerry Davis Glen Carbon.Ill (almost done)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | G McNutt <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT MOUNTING ARROW |
HI Jarard
Just mounted mine, my understanding is that ELT longitudnal axis must be
aligned with direction of flight to ensure that the "G" switch operates
properly, note that on a helicopter the ELT is tilted down 45 degrees.
If you mount your ELT vertically it probably would not activate. Cirrus
aircraft have similiar problem when they descend vertically under their
parachute with a horizontally mounted ELT, they require manual ELT
activation on descent (wonder if I would remember that).
George in Langley BC
Jared davis wrote:
>
>Lister's
> I received my ACK E-01 ELT today to be installed in my RV6-A. The installation
manual said the ELT need to be mounted with the arrow on the case pointed
in the direction of flight.
> I know I have seen many of them mounted vertical (the arrow pointed up). Can
it be mounted vertical???
> Thanks
> Jerry Davis Glen Carbon.Ill (almost done)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | ELT MOUNTING ARROW |
It MUST be mounted with the ARROW pointing in the direction of FLIGHT.
You are required to do an ELT inspection once a year. Read FAR 91.207(d).
The inspection of the installation is part of the REQUIRED once a year
check.
You MUST also do the inspection and test the "G" switch per FAR 91.207(d).
All inspections must be recorded. If you get RAMP CHECKED and the FAA ASI
from the FSDO asks to see the record, you will be required to produce it.
If you have a LOG entry that the inspection has been done and it is not
MOUNTED CORRECTLY, there will be a VIOLATION for falsifying records.
Gary A. Sobek
FAA DAR Function Code 46
EAA TC
FAA A&P
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,839 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Jared davis <jsd41(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: ELT MOUNTING ARROW
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 16:11:56 -0800 (PST)
Lister's
I received my ACK E-01 ELT today to be installed in my RV6-A. The
installation manual said the ELT need to be mounted with the arrow on the
case pointed in the direction of flight.
I know I have seen many of them mounted vertical (the arrow pointed up).
Can it be mounted vertical???
Thanks
Jerry Davis Glen Carbon.Ill (almost done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ELT MOUNTING ARROW |
In a message dated 2/15/2006 4:36:39 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
HCRV6(at)comcast.net writes:
The arrow on the ELT indicates the direction in which the ELT will respond
to a rapid deceleration, i.e., a crash
======================================
It probably bears mentioning here that it is quite common for ELTs to NOT
activate during crashes even when mounted properly and the aircraft crashed
properly. One might be wise to include in their checklist a manual activation
of the ELT the instant you declare an emergency.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ELT MOUNTING ARROW |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
If trying [WHOOP] to talk to [WHOOP] ATC on the same freq, [WHOOP] it
would be a little distracting, no [WHOOP]?
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Vanremog(at)aol.com said:
>
>
> In a message dated 2/15/2006 4:36:39 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> HCRV6(at)comcast.net writes:
>
> The arrow on the ELT indicates the direction in which the ELT will
> respond
> to a rapid deceleration, i.e., a crash
>
>
> ======================================
>
> It probably bears mentioning here that it is quite common for ELTs to NOT
> activate during crashes even when mounted properly and the aircraft
> crashed
> properly. One might be wise to include in their checklist a manual
> activation
> of the ELT the instant you declare an emergency.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Defog fans |
I installed two small (2-1/4") computer fans on the glare shield of my
slider equipped 6a.
I mounted the fans on approximately 3-1/2" x 3" rectangles of .032 aluminium
sheet material. The squares have small tabs bent on the front edge that slip
into and under the slightly smaller dimensioned glare shield fan openings. A
6-32 plate nut at the rear edge of the opening allows the fans to be held in
place with one screw each. Remove screw, tilt up the fan and lift it out. A
short wire with an insulated spade connection allows for disconnection. Some
screen material over the fan opening makes them look good and should keep
junk out of the fans. A small switch on the panel handles the small current
required
As described below no ducting etc. needed. This aircraft has yet to fly so
actual defog performance is as yet an unknown.
Pictures available on request.
I think this would be somewhat harder to do with the tip up canopy.
Jim in Kelowna
>
> Someone requested photos of defog fans. Not much to see. Attached to glare
> shield...no ducts, just cabin air sucked under panel.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerald Richardson <gerric(at)shaw.ca> |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Jewell
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 22:31
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7 Defog fans
I installed two small (2-1/4") computer fans on the glare shield of my
slider equipped 6a.
I mounted the fans on approximately 3-1/2" x 3" rectangles of .032
aluminium
sheet material. The squares have small tabs bent on the front edge that
slip
into and under the slightly smaller dimensioned glare shield fan
openings. A
6-32 plate nut at the rear edge of the opening allows the fans to be
held in
place with one screw each. Remove screw, tilt up the fan and lift it
out. A
short wire with an insulated spade connection allows for disconnection.
Some
screen material over the fan opening makes them look good and should
keep
junk out of the fans. A small switch on the panel handles the small
current
required
As described below no ducting etc. needed. This aircraft has yet to fly
so
actual defog performance is as yet an unknown.
Pictures available on request.
I think this would be somewhat harder to do with the tip up canopy.
Jim in Kelowna
>
> Someone requested photos of defog fans. Not much to see. Attached to
> glare shield...no ducts, just cabin air sucked under panel.
>
--
02/16/2006
--
02/16/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vern W." <highflight1(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Defog fans |
Using a defogger is something I've given thought to, but am not sure how
necessary it really is.
I'd like to hear from frequent flyers who have NO defogging installed and
get some reports about them ever wishing they had them.
Vern W.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
Cc:
| Subject: | Virus protection |
Hope everyone has good virus prot updating. I have had a new update downloaded
from Norton last 6 morn in a row, ( 2 on wed) Usual is 2 per wk on average. Be
alert. Chas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
Cc:
| Subject: | Virus protection |
Hope everyone has good virus prot updating. I have had a new update downloaded
from Norton last 6 morn in a row, ( 2 on wed) Usual is 2 per wk on average. Be
alert. Chas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> Using a defogger is something I've given thought to, but am
> not sure how necessary it really is.
>
> I'd like to hear from frequent flyers who have NO defogging
> installed and get some reports about them ever wishing they had them.
>
> Vern W.
Vern, I am not sure why you only wanted those without fans to answer...mine
doesn't have fans until I turn them on:
) The need depends upon the
temperature and whether or not there are two people on board. If the OAT is
at or below about 10F, and the ground ops time is more than 5 minutes, you
will have a frosted up windscreen. Noticably faster with two on board. It
will clear up after several minutes in flight. There have been takeoffs
that I would not have been able to make without the fans. Both fans are
directed at the pilot's side, and the copilot's side has been completely
obscured. So, the necessity is totally dependent upon the OAT that you plan
to taxi in. Another option is to keep the canopy cracked open while
taxiing, something I've not found comfortable at all. Most GA pilots do not
fly when the temps are in the 10F and below range, based upon my
observations.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 714 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Defog fans |
I put 2 computer cooling fans in my RV9A. Here in the damp Seattle area it
does help to defrost the windshield. Another great benefit is that it draws
warm air off the radio stack to keep the radios cool. I run the fans all the
time for the radio cooling.
Kim Nicholas
Auburn, WA
RV9A 77 hours!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin handheld |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
lyleedda(at)telus.net wrote:
> .... opinions on choosing a Garmin 196 or a color 296, for any of you who may
own or use either of these..... I want to know is how many users feel the cost
and color diffference would affect your choice?.....I imagine the functions
are about the same, are they not ?
> Austin.
I am pleased with the upgrade I made to the 296 from the quite capable 196 which
I happily owned for 3 years or so, but it took significant Garmin discounting
(prior to its 396 debut) for me to opt for the change. The surface display
area and the intuitive user operations are pretty much the same between the units.
The redraw rate is a bit faster in the 296 but as a practical matter, that
doesn't mean a whole lot. However, the clear and sharp color display is much
more sexy and appealing. But more important than the pretty colors is the nifty
terrain avoidance feature. This is where the color display is essential and
really comes into its potentially lifesaving own. I have intentionally aimed
my airplane directly towards an obstruction, usually a communications tower
straight ahead and watch the 296 unerrringly warn of its presence. Climbing or
decending towards the conflict object (or elevated terrain) produces a yellow
background on the display which indicates marginal clearance and turns to red
to indicate a sure collision if a course (or altitude) correction is not made.
One page shows this avoidance feature exclusively. However, Garmin convieniently
thought to include its terrain warning feature as a "pop up' window on
the main moving map page if a potential conflict suddenly arises. For my purposes,
battery life is a non-issue since I keep it plugged into my RV's 12V power
receptacle. In practice, I find myself referring to the 296 much more often
than the permanently installed 430's display. The only thing I actually preferred
in the 196 to the 296 is its vertical navigation function. The 296 will
guide you down well enough but is programmed to shut down the guidance several
miles from the destination target. My guess is Garmin rethought the function
and altered it to better discourage a pilot from being tempted to shoot a casual
and highly illegal approach! As a bonus and as the photo illustrates, I
have a handy place to hang my headsets too. All in all, I am well pleased with
the 296!
but unl
ike my less than satisfying experience in the past, I will not be sucked into purchasing
the optional automotive kit like I did with the 196. But that is as
they say, another story.
http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/4584/pairofgarmins412au.jpg
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=12934#12934
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Herron, Al" <Al.Herron(at)Aerojet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Defog fans |
I've placed a similar fan to circulate air around my avionics stacks to try
to provide a little cooling. I've yet to wire up and test the avionics, and
I'm concerned about electrical noise from the fan motor. Does anyone have
any experience with a similar setup?
Al Herron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Inspection plates |
Anyone installing clear (plexi?) inspection covers / plates instead of
aluminum?
John Jessen
~328
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
Just wanted to let you know that Vic has been shipping the carbon fiber
fairings for the fuel drains, fuel vents and aileron hinges for Rv's &
Rockets and they are beautiful. For full details and pictures contact him at
vjs406(at)yahoo.com
John Furey
RV6A gone
F1 in process
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection plates |
John Jessen wrote:
>
>Anyone installing clear (plexi?) inspection covers / plates instead of
>aluminum?
>
>John Jessen
> ~328
>
I believe that Van says the AL covers are structural (note the number of
screws). You might want to give them a call before you do it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Defog fans |
> > I'd like to hear from frequent flyers who have NO defogging
> > installed and get some reports about them ever wishing they had them.
Okay that's me.
I built a "defroster vent" into the glareshield with a duct routed to it.
The tube goes down and just kind of hangs there next to where the heat inlet
is thru the firewall. Seemed like a good idea at the time but in fact it
doesn't do a damn thing. In the winter I get fogged plexi fairly often and
sometimes it stays fogged once I get flying unless I open the cold air
vents.
I keep meaning to either 1) plumb the SCAT tube so the heat inlet blows more
directly into the glareshield duct or 2) put a fan in there. But 5 years and
750 hrs after first flight I can't seem to get around to it... too many
other fun things to do (like go flying!)
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin handheld |
The 196 had a software update last year which gives it the same terrain
functions, ie. depicts the towers and their heights and warns you when
you're about to smack one.
Jeff Point
RV-6 w/ 196
Milwaukee
Tony Marshall wrote:
>The 296 has a 'terrain' feature that would be nice, and the screen is very
>nice.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vern W." <highflight1(at)GMAIL.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Defog fans |
Thanks Randall, that kind of says it all. If you've been "meaning" to
install a defog system, but haven't in over 750 hours of flying, then I
think when it comes right down to it, a defogger simply that much of an
importance.
A soft rag tucked into a side pocket seems to be plenty good for the purpose
for those times when called for.
Vern W.
On 2/18/06, randall wrote:
>
>
> Okay that's me.
>
>
> I keep meaning to either 1) plumb the SCAT tube so the heat inlet blows
> more
> directly into the glareshield duct or 2) put a fan in there. But 5 years
> and
> 750 hrs after first flight I can't seem to get around to it... too many
> other fun things to do (like go flying!)
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
IMHO I would only get the color unit. I find the 296 to be the most
useful device in my cockpit (other than the urine bottle) and being that
I am so dependant on it I prefer the better image definition you get
with the color display. Also keep in mind that if you ever choose to
upgrade by selling your color unit you will get more for the 296 than
the 196 to the actual cost is less than the purchase price difference
between the two units. I have found (personally) that when I go with the
cheaper "value" purchase I always wish I had purchased the upgraded
version. A friend of mine has a saying that "the most expensive thing he
ever did was try and save money."
Note the above is only my opinion and part of the reason I am known as
the great justifier! I can justify just about anything to myself.
Robin
RV-6A 250 hours (Pivot Panel Mounted 296)
RV-4 Sold (Air Gizmo Mounted 296) http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-4/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Right off, I freely submit I barely understand the complexities involved but just
the same, I'll throw this thought out there and maybe glean some useful insights
from those more knowledgable.
I would love to own a Garmin 396. I could buy one sure...but....I am loathe to
commit to an ongoing monthly subscription for the primary reason for buying one......XM
weather services. To me, a on-going $50 per month service fee is not
an insignificant commitment. Beside, I just don't like elective monthly payments
period.
I keep reading reports that XM radio is in serious financial trouble and is generally
falling short of its goals. Is XM satellite weather subject to the same
financial pressures as XM satellite radio? Cutting to the chase: Within the
framework of our capitalistic system, it is reasonable to suppose that XM technology
is here to stay BUT at some point a structural reorganization will likely
occur within the XM industry. If so, is there any likelyhood that monthly
subscription services for XM weather services relevant to the 386 (and its eventual
successor) will trend downward like so many other hi-tech consumer products?
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=13105#13105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin handheld |
Hi Austin,
You can buy a used 296 on ebay because lots of folk are going to the 396,
which run around $1000, and sell your 196 for about $500, that's what I did.
Got a nice clean unit and like it much better. Redraws faster, easier to read
because of the color, and I like the terrain feature a lot, for those pesky
radio towers when the ceiling is down.
A feature I like is the 8 hour ( tested it) battery life. We haven't
bothered to wire it to the ship yet, just take it home keep it charged up. For
ease
of use, I think these beat the certified panel mounts. HTH...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
From: "lyle" <lyleedda(at)telus.net>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin handheld
Hi Listers,
I would like to ask for your opinions on choosing a Garmin
196 or a color 296, for any of you who may own or use either of these.
I do realize the difference in cost and color, but what I want to know is
how many
users feel the cost and color diffference would affect your choice ?
I sense that the display of the 196 appears larger, but is that just how the
promo photos appear ?
I imagine the functions are about the same, are they not ?
Anyway, I guess it mostly comes down to whether the extra cost of color is
worth
it ?
Many thanks for any who care to add to this.
Austin.
do not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> Thanks Randall, that kind of says it all. If you've been
> "meaning" to install a defog system, but haven't in over 750
> hours of flying, then I think when it comes right down to it,
> a defogger simply that much of an importance.
>
> A soft rag tucked into a side pocket seems to be plenty good
> for the purpose for those times when called for.
>
>
> Vern W.
Vern, there are people who don't ever use the heaters in their cars either,
as they live in warm climates. To repeat my previous post, if you taxi in
OAT's at or below about 10F, you will either need to leave the canopy
cracked open or have some sort of defrost system. A rag will not clear
frost. Everything depends on the temperatures where you live or plan to
fly.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 712 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Ditto what alex said. Up here in the frozen north (where it's currently a
whopping FOUR degrees outside) a defroster is a MUST. You'll quickly find
that in temperatures like this that the light "film" that people think of on
their windshields up here becomes literally a layer of frost and ice that
really sucks to try and scrape off (not wipe, but scrape). I hate having
the canopy craked with it's 10 degrees out (but sometimes just have to) so
my little muffin fans at least keep an open circle in front of the pilot and
co-pilot...although some days my little "portholes of defrosted window"
aren't very large until the plane gets moving!
Just my 2 cents...but then again everyone laughs at my "winterization kit"
which consits of varying widths (currently 2 strips) of duct tape across my
air inlets :)
Cheers,
Stein.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
>Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 12:19 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-7 Defog fans
>
>Vern, there are people who don't ever use the heaters in their cars either,
>as they live in warm climates. To repeat my previous post, if you taxi in
>OAT's at or below about 10F, you will either need to leave the canopy
>cracked open or have some sort of defrost system. A rag will not clear
>frost. Everything depends on the temperatures where you live or plan to
>fly.
>
>Alex Peterson
>RV6-A N66AP 712 hours
>Maple Grove, MN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron" <brown_rj(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | F-904H Center Section Side Plate |
I think my right 904H might have been drilled backward. It appears on dwg 23 coordinates
3.5, and C, that the top of the spar flange has a bevel on the front
flange. The 904H has this same bevel. My left side matches the dwg, but the
right has the bevel on the aft flange of the spar. I matched up the bevels not
paying attention to the orientation and matched drilled. Now I notice the spacer
will not come out of the slot between the two spars. If I flip the 904H over,
the slot works fine, and all is well. The issue now is the hole spacing.
the front is supposed to have 24 holes and the rear flange 25 according to dwg
16. I can't simply drill new holes as they will elongate the current ones, any
ideas, thoughts? The left side is correct.. spar flange serial numbers and orientation
marks from vans is correct..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Finishing Van's intersection fairings (RV-6) |
Listers,
I have Van's top and bottom intersection fairings and f/g legs and I have them
cleco'd in place. They went on with very little distortion. I plan to attach
them with screws and nutplates rather than bonding permanently to the wheel
covers. The plans call for laying up two layers of glass over the intersection
fairings.
It seems to me that it would be okay to lay up the extra layers on the bench rather
than on the airplane where I would have to deal with clecos. The only consideration
I can think of - lies in the amount of distortion. QUESTION: Is
this how others are doing it (on the bench)?
Thanks for any input.
Tom Barnes -6 190+ hrs
Buffalo Grove, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: i39 Flyin Feb. 25th. Let's push 100 again |
| From: | "deuskid" <empire.john(at)gmail.com> |
newbie looking to hitch a ride from So. Il [Belleville IL/St Louis area]. I'd
like to drive to your place and help with gas if you have an empty seat.
my phone no. is 314.807.0027
thanks
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=13157#13157
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: i39 Flyin Feb. 25th. Let's push 100 again |
| From: | "deuskid" <empire.john(at)gmail.com> |
newbie from Belleville IL looking to hitch a ride for gas to the fly in.
my phone # is 314.807.0027 if you have an empty seat and are within striking distance
to the St Louis area so I could drive and meet up with you at your location.
Thanks
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=13156#13156
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <dan.beadle(at)inclinesoftworks.com> |
XM did report a higher than expected loss this week. BUT
They have the most subscribers. Their true fixed costs - the costs of
satellites - are not going up while subscribers have doubled. They seem to
be in the early, easy spending stages. They will likely start to watch
pennies as they mature, but in this kind of play, it is all about
subscribers. They have plenty of content to keep attracting subscribers.
Right now, there are only 5 million. But the target population is 300
million. And some people will have multiple subscriptions - for Garmins,
boom boxes, etc., as well as cars.
I just committed to $6K upgrade to my MX-20 to put the weather on the panel
in my C414.
The RV8 will get a G396 ---- and another subscription.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 9:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: XM and the 386
Right off, I freely submit I barely understand the complexities involved but
just the same, I'll throw this thought out there and maybe glean some useful
insights from those more knowledgable.
I would love to own a Garmin 396. I could buy one sure...but....I am loathe
to commit to an ongoing monthly subscription for the primary reason for
buying one......XM weather services. To me, a on-going $50 per month
service fee is not an insignificant commitment. Beside, I just don't like
elective monthly payments period.
I keep reading reports that XM radio is in serious financial trouble and is
generally falling short of its goals. Is XM satellite weather subject to
the same financial pressures as XM satellite radio? Cutting to the chase:
Within the framework of our capitalistic system, it is reasonable to suppose
that XM technology is here to stay BUT at some point a structural
reorganization will likely occur within the XM industry. If so, is there
any likelyhood that monthly subscription services for XM weather services
relevant to the 386 (and its eventual successor) will trend downward like so
many other hi-tech consumer products?
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=13105#13105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | OAT Sensor problem |
I recently installed an OAT sensor in the outboard inspection panel under the
left wing of my 8A and hooked it up to my EIS engine monitor. I was surprised
to see the indicated temp was twice what the ambient temp in my hangar was.
Any ideas for the reason for this and a fix?
Walt Shipley RV-8A flying, RV-8 still under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT Sensor problem |
I don't have the manual handy, but I'd guess the settings for that input
are off. You might want to look them up and double check.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OAT Sensor problem |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
On 2/18/06 5:52 PM, "rveighta" wrote:
>
> I recently installed an OAT sensor in the outboard inspection panel under the
> left wing of my 8A and hooked it up to my EIS engine monitor. I was surprised
> to see the indicated temp was twice what the ambient temp in my hangar was.
>
> Any ideas for the reason for this and a fix?
>
> Walt Shipley RV-8A flying, RV-8 still under construction
>
I hope you wired this with the proper thermocouple type wire. That will
make a big, big difference.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, N722DW
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT Sensor problem |
----- Original Message -----
>
> I recently installed an OAT sensor in the outboard inspection panel under
> the
> left wing of my 8A and hooked it up to my EIS engine monitor. I was
> surprised
> to see the indicated temp was twice what the ambient temp in my hangar
> was.
>
> Any ideas for the reason for this and a fix?
>
> Walt Shipley RV-8A flying, RV-8 still under construction
((((((((())))))))))))
I installed mine by the inboard inspection plate of right wing.
Be sure you have oriented your sensor/guage by setting it in freezing water
and setting that temp. display to either 32 F or 0 C and have set it in
boiling water and set that resulting measurement to 212 F or 100 C?
I did that with my ACS2002 and it gives excellent indications of
temperatures; If otherwise, I suggest you contact your sensor supplier.
Indiana Larry, RV7 SunSeeker 85+ hours flying, AFS ACS2002
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vernatherm success |
Ron,
I too have been fighting high oil temps with an IO-360 in an RV-8A. Can you
put me in contact with your source for louvers?
Vince Welch
>From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: vernatherm success
>Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 10:03:20 -0700
>
>
>At 07:30 AM 2/15/2006, you wrote:
> >
> >I have a friend who has been fighting high oil temps since day one. He
>has
> >relocated the oil cooler, and checked the operation of the vernatherm by
> >heating it in boiling water and checking the seat. Nothing has seemed to
> >helped the situation. I am wondering if there is anyone out there who
>cured
> >their oil temp woes by replacing the vernatherm.
>
>
>I have no vernatherm but fought high oil temps. I solved it by reducing
>cabin heat hose clutter, opening the bottom cowl to let air out better
>and adding cowl louvers. Best recollection is that it dropped the oil temp
>40 deg F or so.
>
>http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/Cowl_Louver_Small.jpg
>
>Ron Lee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: P/N KM610-64 Camloc Flush Button Latch |
Quite some time back someone on the RV-List asked about these push button
latches. I recently did some research and realized that I had listed an
incorrect P/N in my reply and that error is forever ensconced in the archives.
My
bad.
These latches are much nicer than the commonly available Hartwell latches
IMO, as they won't pop you on the thumb some cold morning when checking the oil.
For those of you looking to use this really cool latch, they are apparently
still available from a number of Cessna parts outlets and may be found on the
web by simply Googling P/N KM610-64.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: P/N KM610-64 Camloc Flush Button Latch |
how many of these are needed for the oil door ?
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 10:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: P/N KM610-64 Camloc Flush Button Latch
>
> Quite some time back someone on the RV-List asked about these push button
> latches. I recently did some research and realized that I had listed an
> incorrect P/N in my reply and that error is forever ensconced in the
> archives. My
> bad.
>
> These latches are much nicer than the commonly available Hartwell latches
> IMO, as they won't pop you on the thumb some cold morning when checking
> the oil.
>
> For those of you looking to use this really cool latch, they are
> apparently
> still available from a number of Cessna parts outlets and may be found on
> the
> web by simply Googling P/N KM610-64.
>
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JIM ETCHEVERRY" <ETCHY1(at)comcast.net> |
Does anyone have a 7a fuselage stand they want to get ride of? Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: P/N KM610-64 Camloc Flush Button Latch |
In a message dated 2/18/2006 10:52:27 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com writes:
how many of these are needed for the oil door ?
===============================
One would be sufficient, but in the spirit of redundancy, I have two of
these latches on the oil access door. I use only one latch on the gascolator
drain access door on the lower cowling.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: P/N KM610-64 Camloc Flush Button Latch |
I found them for 20.00 each is that about right ? , I was planning on adding
to the tube and have the gasolator drain stick out just a little without
a door for it.. whats others doing on that ?
Danny..
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 1:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: P/N KM610-64 Camloc Flush Button Latch
>
>
> In a message dated 2/18/2006 10:52:27 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com writes:
>
> how many of these are needed for the oil door ?
>
>
> ===============================
>
> One would be sufficient, but in the spirit of redundancy, I have two of
> these latches on the oil access door. I use only one latch on the
> gascolator
> drain access door on the lower cowling.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: P/N KM610-64 Camloc Flush Button Latch |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com wrote:
> how many of these are needed for the oil door ?Danny..---
I never did care for the dominant look produced by Hartwell latches contained in
such a small area like the cowl oil door and I surely was not going to install
those kit supplied wingy things on it either! Looking for ideas, I would
cruise the RV line at Oshkosh endlessly and never did see an RV with the KM610-64's
installed. It was only when I spotted a student checking the oil on a rental
172 that I finally had my inspiration. I'd like to think I was the first
person to install these nifty latches on the RV oil door but apparently not.
Oh well.
I installed these KM610-64's a few years back, ordered and purchased from my (then)
FBO out of a C-172 parts catalog for a mind bending $30.00 each. A few weeks
later, I came across the same new latchs from a vendor in the Flymart at
Airventure for $7.50 each. I think it was B&B Aviation Parts. Anyway, when I
loudly complained to my FBO about the ripoff, he cut the price in half...to $15
each. As the photo's illustrate, I installed two of the camlocks on the oil
door. I also bonded the cutout cowl waste material onto the back of the oil door
the stiffen it considerably. They work great.
http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/2166/oildoor01403wn.jpg
http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/9172/oildoor04409tb.jpg
http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/6949/oildoor05400wd.jpg
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=13284#13284
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: P/N KM610-64 Camloc Flush Button Latch |
The only trouble with these latches is the contact area to the cowling is
very small and the latch will wear at the point of contact, so will the
aluminum piece they ride up against.. I've replaced these a couple of times
on our club C-172's, and have tig welded them back into shape also.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying, F1 under const.
On 2/19/06, Sportypilot wrote:
>
>
> I found them for 20.00 each is that about right ? , I was planning on
> adding
> to the tube and have the gasolator drain stick out just a little without
> a door for it.. whats others doing on that ?
>
>
> Danny..
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 1:14 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: P/N KM610-64 Camloc Flush Button Latch
>
>
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 2/18/2006 10:52:27 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> > sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com writes:
> >
> > how many of these are needed for the oil door ?
> >
> >
> >
> > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> >
> > One would be sufficient, but in the spirit of redundancy, I have two of
> > these latches on the oil access door. I use only one latch on the
> > gascolator
> > drain access door on the lower cowling.
> >
> > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Cowl Louvers (was vernatherm success) |
>I too have been fighting high oil temps with an IO-360 in an RV-8A. Can you
>put me in contact with your source for louvers?
>
>Vince Welch
I had them made locally using Home Depot aluminum by a guy who
does it for race cars. Another source is at this link:
http://www.attawayair.com/rv6a.htm
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuselage stand |
JIM ETCHEVERRY wrote:
>
>Does anyone have a 7a fuselage stand they want to get ride of? Jim
>
Are you asking about a dolly to plug into the gear sockets, or a
construction jig?
If you're looking for a 'jig', Van recommends 2 sawhorses to build the
fuse on. Likely to be cheaper to go to a local building supply than pay
shipping on them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Alternative Nav. Lights |
I viewed some LED nav. lights with strobe system a new company has been
working on and for the life of me can't find it anywhere. Some one point me
in the right direction.
TIA,
Bruce G.
RV8 Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Walrath" <der_Jagdflieger(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XM and the 386 |
Charlie, I presume you are aware that your "friend"
is violating both FCC and FAA regulations as well
as the restrictions of his service provider when he
operates his cellular phone in an aircraft that is
not on the ground.
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie England
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: XM and the 386
The most likely solution (since the FAA won't 'do the right thing' &
simply lease a transponder channel to supply us an avgas-tax supported
feed) is coming in the next few years with broadband wireless, like 3G &
WiMax. As those technologies spread, we will be able to use the same
service for home broadband internet & to get info via a cellphone-like
interface to a data screen (PDA or PDA/phone combo, computer, etc) in
the plane.
A friend is already getting in-flight weather with his PDA/phone. If you're
flying anywhere near an interstate highway (most of the time you are), you
can do this stuff now.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Nav. Lights |
At 09:54 AM 2/19/2006, you wrote:
>
>I viewed some LED nav. lights with strobe system a new company has been
>working on and for the life of me can't find it anywhere. Some one point me
>in the right direction.
Is this it?
http://www.creativair.com/cva/
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XM and the 386 |
These aren't, technically, cell phones. You might be able to make a case
for violating some archaic FAA rule, but those much more authority to
speak than me say that the new technology is not restricted to ground
use under FCC rules.
My point is that new technology will soon render the XM issue mute.
Charlie
Howard Walrath wrote:
>
>Charlie, I presume you are aware that your "friend"
>is violating both FCC and FAA regulations as well
>as the restrictions of his service provider when he
>operates his cellular phone in an aircraft that is
>not on the ground.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Charlie England
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 8:46 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: XM and the 386
>
>
>The most likely solution (since the FAA won't 'do the right thing' &
>simply lease a transponder channel to supply us an avgas-tax supported
>feed) is coming in the next few years with broadband wireless, like 3G &
>WiMax. As those technologies spread, we will be able to use the same
>service for home broadband internet & to get info via a cellphone-like
>interface to a data screen (PDA or PDA/phone combo, computer, etc) in
>the plane.
>
>A friend is already getting in-flight weather with his PDA/phone. If you're
>flying anywhere near an interstate highway (most of the time you are), you
>can do this stuff now.
>
>Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N2D First Flight |
| From: | Mark E Navratil <czechsix(at)juno.com> |
Guys, most if not all of you have already seen my first flight report on
Doug Reeves' or Van's websites, just in case anybody hasn't I thought I'd
copy it to the various Lists I've followed over the past 6 years. Wish I
could remember the names of everybody who has answered questions I have
had, or posted information I have found invaluable during the contruction
of N2D. I often find myself wondering how people built airplanes before
the internet! Thanks for all your help and hope to see many of you in
the air and at fly-ins around the country in the months/years ahead.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finally flying...
----
Well folks, N2D is now officially an AIR-plane. The FAA signed me off
Friday Feb 10th and on Wed morning (Feb 15) I woke up to calm winds and I
said to myself, it's time to go flying. I get out to the airport, push
it out of the hangar, do a careful preflight, and can't think of any
excuse not to go. Don my nomex flight suit and helmet and strap myself
in. "Clear Prop!" Engine lights off and the plane comes alive with a
brief shudder and rumble as the vibration ripples through the aluminum
airframe. Taxi out to the end of the East Tees and dial up ground
control: "Cedar Rapids Ground, RV November Two Delta, Experimental...."
Feels good to say that. Tell them I'm ready to do first flight and want
to depart Three-One and circle the airport to 4000'. No problemo. After
the run-up I call Tower and they give me "Position and Hold Three-One,
regional jet landing Niner."
I move out onto the runway, line up with the centerline and wait. I
haven't really been apprehensive about flying this bird but as I sit
there for a few moments, it sorta hits me that I am about to take off in
an airplane that has never flown before....that arrived as boxes of parts
and I assembled in my garage. I think to myself, ya know, this is a
little bit crazy... My thoughts are interrupted by the Tower calling out
"RV Two
Delta, cleared for takeoff." I take a deep breath and push the throttle
forward very slowly. I don't bother looking much at the airspeed, since
I
don't know if it will be accurate. I just wait until it has that 'ready
to fly' feeling and pull back gently on the stick. And up we go. I
realize I
still don't have full power in so I open it up all the way and feel the
constant-speed prop bite in and lunge skyward. Now I am just hanging on
for dear life and hoping nothing bad happens until I can get a little
altitude and catch my breath.
Well, nothing bad happens and eventually my brain catches up with the
airplane. Before I know it I am pushing the nose over at 4K.' My CHT's
are getting a bit high from the climb but nothing out of limits. I
wiggle the stick side-to-side a bit. The wings rock back and forth
briskly in perfect synch with the stick. Gotta love that fighter-like
control response. Flies like an RV....
I circle lazily above the airport for a while, adjusting my oil temp
control and keeping a close eye on all the engine vital signs.
Everything looking good. I peer down on the poor schmucks in the
regional jets landing below me and try not to feel smug. Ok, back to the
task at hand....need to do a few stalls just to see if my airspeed is
working right at low speeds. I head northwest out over the open
farmland. After some more maneuvers I pull the power back slowly to
idle....nose coming up....watching the ASI. Slight buffet and clean
break at 50 kts with flaps
up. Try another one with full flaps...breaks right at 45 kts.
Beautiful. Power back in to 24-squared....gotta run it hard for proper
break-in. I
glance at the flight timer and am surprised to see that an hour has gone
by already.
Time to head back to the aerodrome. I check my six for enemy fighters
and, seeing none, key the mic and tell Cedar Rapids I am ready to return.
They come back with "Wind 040 at 9, left base for runway niner, cleared
to land." I run through my landing checklist. Grip the stick a bit
tighter. Realize that I'm getting close to the field and am still way too
high. Pull the power back to idle and feel the deceleration as the
constant-speed prop and short stubby wings do their thing....get 'er
slowed down enough to throw out the flaps, turn final, add a touch of
power back in to maintain 70 kts and arrest the high sink rate. A bit of
turbulence tossing me around. Nearing the ground now...power all the way
off....flare....and
touchdown. Whew! Not a greaser but not bad either. Big relief as I
roll down the runway, all in one piece...
Taxi up to my hangar, shut her down and just sit there for a while
letting it all soak in. Quiet satisfaction. Engine making that tick,
tick, tick
sound as it cools. Lovely airplane aroma of heat, oil and avgas.
Nobody's around for picture taking, back-slapping or champagne but that
is fine.
Some guy changing a light bulb outside the hangar comes by and says "nice
airplane!". I don't tell him I have just completed its first
flight....just smile and say "thanks."
Speaking of thanks, I owe a huge debt of gratitude to the following:
God, for blessing me with the freedom and resources to make this
dream come true.
My patient and supportive wife Kathleen--and my kids--who have
sacrificed a lot to allow me to do this project.
Alan Kritzman for all his help, encouragement (prodding?) and
camaraderie.
Jerry Esquenazi (T-6A IP at Moody AFB) and Karl Heidrich
(Wright-Patt AFB) for going out of their way to help me duplicate the
beautiful paint scheme on the T-6A.
Everett Coleman for kindly donating his way-cool short N-number to
me.
Everybody at Vans Aircraft for the great design and support.
Countless others--too many to name--from EAA Chapter 33 and the
sport aviation community who have shared their time, hardware, advice and
lessons-learned, resulting in a much better airplane than I could have
built without them!
Hope I can get lots of good flying wx in the weeks/months ahead....I have
38.7 hours to go before I can get out of my test area...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A (s/n 80583) N2D, 1.3 hours flying!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vern W." <highflight1(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Nav. Lights |
This might also be what you're looking for:
http://www.thorllc.net/LEDSTROBE.htm
I already have the Creative Air Nav LED's, but I need a tail nav/strobe
light to finish the system. Unfortunately, Thor won't sell just the tail
nav/strobe light by itself and will only sell as a complete light set.
Vern W.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Nav. Lights |
CreativeAir has been out for awhile. This company just hit the market
with-in the year. They have a triangular Tail/Stobe and showed a couple
photo's of the nav instulation.
Thanks for your help.
Bruce G.
>From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternative Nav. Lights
>Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 10:36:01 -0700
>
>
>At 09:54 AM 2/19/2006, you wrote:
> >
> >I viewed some LED nav. lights with strobe system a new company has been
> >working on and for the life of me can't find it anywhere. Some one point
>me
> >in the right direction.
>
>Is this it?
>
>http://www.creativair.com/cva/
>
>Ron Lee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Nav. Lights |
That the ticket! These are the guys I saw a while back.
I'm liking these LED low maintenance approach with minimal voltage draw on
the elec. system.
Thanks for your help guys,
Bruce Gray
RV8 Fuse
>From: "Vern W." <highflight1(at)gmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternative Nav. Lights
>Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 15:33:33 -0600
>
>
>This might also be what you're looking for:
>http://www.thorllc.net/LEDSTROBE.htm
>
>I already have the Creative Air Nav LED's, but I need a tail nav/strobe
>light to finish the system. Unfortunately, Thor won't sell just the tail
>nav/strobe light by itself and will only sell as a complete light set.
>
>Vern W.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com> |
| Subject: | Re: XM and the 386 |
AFAICT, it's only the 900MHz phones that are against FAA regulations. Most
current phones don't use the 900MHz bands.
On Sunday February 19 2006 11:57, Howard Walrath wrote:
>
>
> Charlie, I presume you are aware that your "friend"
> is violating both FCC and FAA regulations as well
> as the restrictions of his service provider when he
> operates his cellular phone in an aircraft that is
> not on the ground.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N2D First Flight |
Congradulations !!!
Dan
-8 Rudder
Mark E Navratil wrote:
Guys, most if not all of you have already seen my first flight report on
Doug Reeves' or Van's websites, just in case anybody hasn't I thought I'd
copy it to the various Lists I've followed over the past 6 years. Wish I
could remember the names of everybody who has answered questions I have
had, or posted information I have found invaluable during the contruction
of N2D. I often find myself wondering how people built airplanes before
the internet! Thanks for all your help and hope to see many of you in
the air and at fly-ins around the country in the months/years ahead.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finally flying...
----
Well folks, N2D is now officially an AIR-plane. The FAA signed me off
Friday Feb 10th and on Wed morning (Feb 15) I woke up to calm winds and I
said to myself, it's time to go flying. I get out to the airport, push
it out of the hangar, do a careful preflight, and can't think of any
excuse not to go. Don my nomex flight suit and helmet and strap myself
in. "Clear Prop!" Engine lights off and the plane comes alive with a
brief shudder and rumble as the vibration ripples through the aluminum
airframe. Taxi out to the end of the East Tees and dial up ground
control: "Cedar Rapids Ground, RV November Two Delta, Experimental...."
Feels good to say that. Tell them I'm ready to do first flight and want
to depart Three-One and circle the airport to 4000'. No problemo. After
the run-up I call Tower and they give me "Position and Hold Three-One,
regional jet landing Niner."
I move out onto the runway, line up with the centerline and wait. I
haven't really been apprehensive about flying this bird but as I sit
there for a few moments, it sorta hits me that I am about to take off in
an airplane that has never flown before....that arrived as boxes of parts
and I assembled in my garage. I think to myself, ya know, this is a
little bit crazy... My thoughts are interrupted by the Tower calling out
"RV Two
Delta, cleared for takeoff." I take a deep breath and push the throttle
forward very slowly. I don't bother looking much at the airspeed, since
I
don't know if it will be accurate. I just wait until it has that 'ready
to fly' feeling and pull back gently on the stick. And up we go. I
realize I
still don't have full power in so I open it up all the way and feel the
constant-speed prop bite in and lunge skyward. Now I am just hanging on
for dear life and hoping nothing bad happens until I can get a little
altitude and catch my breath.
Well, nothing bad happens and eventually my brain catches up with the
airplane. Before I know it I am pushing the nose over at 4K.' My CHT's
are getting a bit high from the climb but nothing out of limits. I
wiggle the stick side-to-side a bit. The wings rock back and forth
briskly in perfect synch with the stick. Gotta love that fighter-like
control response. Flies like an RV....
I circle lazily above the airport for a while, adjusting my oil temp
control and keeping a close eye on all the engine vital signs.
Everything looking good. I peer down on the poor schmucks in the
regional jets landing below me and try not to feel smug. Ok, back to the
task at hand....need to do a few stalls just to see if my airspeed is
working right at low speeds. I head northwest out over the open
farmland. After some more maneuvers I pull the power back slowly to
idle....nose coming up....watching the ASI. Slight buffet and clean
break at 50 kts with flaps
up. Try another one with full flaps...breaks right at 45 kts.
Beautiful. Power back in to 24-squared....gotta run it hard for proper
break-in. I
glance at the flight timer and am surprised to see that an hour has gone
by already.
Time to head back to the aerodrome. I check my six for enemy fighters
and, seeing none, key the mic and tell Cedar Rapids I am ready to return.
They come back with "Wind 040 at 9, left base for runway niner, cleared
to land." I run through my landing checklist. Grip the stick a bit
tighter. Realize that I'm getting close to the field and am still way too
high. Pull the power back to idle and feel the deceleration as the
constant-speed prop and short stubby wings do their thing....get 'er
slowed down enough to throw out the flaps, turn final, add a touch of
power back in to maintain 70 kts and arrest the high sink rate. A bit of
turbulence tossing me around. Nearing the ground now...power all the way
off....flare....and
touchdown. Whew! Not a greaser but not bad either. Big relief as I
roll down the runway, all in one piece...
Taxi up to my hangar, shut her down and just sit there for a while
letting it all soak in. Quiet satisfaction. Engine making that tick,
tick, tick
sound as it cools. Lovely airplane aroma of heat, oil and avgas.
Nobody's around for picture taking, back-slapping or champagne but that
is fine.
Some guy changing a light bulb outside the hangar comes by and says "nice
airplane!". I don't tell him I have just completed its first
flight....just smile and say "thanks."
Speaking of thanks, I owe a huge debt of gratitude to the following:
God, for blessing me with the freedom and resources to make this
dream come true.
My patient and supportive wife Kathleen--and my kids--who have
sacrificed a lot to allow me to do this project.
Alan Kritzman for all his help, encouragement (prodding?) and
camaraderie.
Jerry Esquenazi (T-6A IP at Moody AFB) and Karl Heidrich
(Wright-Patt AFB) for going out of their way to help me duplicate the
beautiful paint scheme on the T-6A.
Everett Coleman for kindly donating his way-cool short N-number to
me.
Everybody at Vans Aircraft for the great design and support.
Countless others--too many to name--from EAA Chapter 33 and the
sport aviation community who have shared their time, hardware, advice and
lessons-learned, resulting in a much better airplane than I could have
built without them!
Hope I can get lots of good flying wx in the weeks/months ahead....I have
38.7 hours to go before I can get out of my test area...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A (s/n 80583) N2D, 1.3 hours flying!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: XM and the 386 |
In a message dated 2/19/2006 10:31:38 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
ceengland(at)bellsouth.net writes:
My point is that new technology will soon render the XM issue mute.
And also moot.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | N2D First Flight |
Mark,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Mark E Navratil <czechsix(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com, aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com,
>rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: N2D First Flight
>Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 15:20:47 -0600
>
>
>Well folks, N2D is now officially an AIR-plane.
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A (s/n 80583) N2D, 1.3 hours flying!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N2D First Flight |
Mark, you have a way with words, enjoyed your first flight report, Congrats! Charlie
Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net> Camloc Flush Button Latch |
| Subject: | Re: P/N KM610-64 Camloc Flush Button LatchP/N KM610-64 Camloc |
Flush Button Latch
I installed the Camlock Flush Button Latch on my now flying RV-7A. Works great
with just one button as long as you stiffen the door.
Scroll down near the bottom of this page and you will see four (4) close-up photos
of how I installed mine:
http://www.jacklockamy.com/RV-7A.html
I purchased three or four of these camlocks at a fly-mart one year while at Sun-N-Fun
for about $5 each. (I have sold the remaining flush locks to other friends
building RVs.... sorry.)
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
N174JL RV-7A 140 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: P/N KM610-64 Camloc Flush Button Latch |
To solve the problem of 'wear' where the camlock contacts the fiberglass cowling,
I installed a small strip of stainless steel (1" x 1/2" x .030) under the cowling
lip and attached with a couple of flush rivets.
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerns25(at)netscape.net |
| Subject: | Re: N2D First Flight |
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: N2D First Flight
Mark,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Mark E Navratil <czechsix(at)juno.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com, aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com,
>rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: N2D First Flight
>Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 15:20:47 -0600
>
>
>Well folks, N2D is now officially an AIR-plane.
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A (s/n 80583) N2D, 1.3 hours flying!!
>
>
Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
http://mail.netscape.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Cockpit Light Bulb |
I just wanted to find out if anyone knows a source for a 12 volt # 313
bulb. I have a cockpit map light from a F-100 I acquired many years
ago and I thought I would check to see if I can rig it up in my RV.
Aircraft Spruce has the 313 but it only lists it in a 28 volt version.
Maybe there is a substitute that will work in 12 volt.
Ed O'Connor/ RV-8 N-366RV/ awaiting first flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAR Safety question. |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
The safety pilot can log the time as 'second-in-command', for the time
that the 'pilot-in-command' is under the hood in VFR conditions. This is
because during that time you are a required crewmember.
Now keep in mind that 'second-in-command' time doesn't count toward most
things for which you log your time, like additional ratings, insurance,
..., because those require PIC time. There is value in logging that
time to prove that there was a safety pilot on-board. Just be careful
that both pilot's logbooks are in synch (PIC vs. SIC).
Dennis Glaeser
CFII
Maybe someone here can answer this question. A buddy and I fly as IFR
safety pilot for each other for training. As safety pilot, can I log the
flight time? If so, in what capacity? Pilot in command?? Even the local
FAA gurus cannot agree on this one.
Thanks.
Kim Nicholas RV9A Auburn, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Light Bulb |
> I just wanted to find out if anyone knows a source for a 12 volt # 313
> bulb. I have a cockpit map light from a F-100 I acquired many years
> ago and I thought I would check to see if I can rig it up in my RV.
> Aircraft Spruce has the 313 but it only lists it in a 28 volt version.
> Maybe there is a substitute that will work in 12 volt.
> Ed O'Connor/ RV-8 N-366RV/ awaiting first flight.
Hi Ed,
Start here for bulb information:
http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/313~ac%7cdelco.html
A 313 is 28 volts by definition. You should be able to find a 12 volt bulb
that will work. It will have a different part number of course. If you
don't want to try and figure out the bulb for yourself, call Bulbman and ask
them for help...
Good luck,
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Light Bulb |
Ed,
A #313 is a 28V lamp, there is no 14V version. However a #1893 should be
pretty close to the same output and they are both size T-1 3/4. The 1893
won't be quite as bright.
Any decent electronics store should have them (probably not R.S.) or
Mouser Electronics has them
http://www.mouser.com/
Dave
Ed OConnor wrote:
>
>I just wanted to find out if anyone knows a source for a 12 volt # 313
>bulb. I have a cockpit map light from a F-100 I acquired many years
>ago and I thought I would check to see if I can rig it up in my RV.
>Aircraft Spruce has the 313 but it only lists it in a 28 volt version.
>Maybe there is a substitute that will work in 12 volt.
>Ed O'Connor/ RV-8 N-366RV/ awaiting first flight.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAR Safety question. |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
Please note that both pilots can NOT log PIC for the same time! (legally
anyway :-) As noted in the link that Dan provided, the pilots can agree
on who is PIC during what times, regardless of who is 'manipulating the
controls'.
The safety pilot MUST be appropriately rated for the aircraft being
flown. For instance, you can not have a student pilot act as a safety
pilot, or a pilot rated only for single-engine can't be a safety pilot
on a multi-engine aircraft.
Dennis Glaeser
---------------------------------------------------
It's my understanding that *both* pilots can log PIC time when one is
under
the hood (simulated instrument conditions, not actual), as long as the
safety pilot is rated for the given category & class, and type if a type
rating is required. Any private pilot can act as safety pilot in any
airplane regardless of type, but he can only log it as PIC if
appropriately
rated and endorsed.
---snip--------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAR Safety question. |
Dennis, It was a little qirky the way it was written, but it did say you
could both log the time if the safety pilot was PIC and properly rated. The
legality of PIC was the issue. If the safety pilot is PIC then he is
responsible if there was a violation, or accident, etc.
I read it twice, and thought as you did at first.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Glaeser, Dennis A
Date: 02/20/06 09:41:14
Subject: RV-List: Re: FAR Safety question.
Please note that both pilots can NOT log PIC for the same time! (legally
anyway :-) As noted in the link that Dan provided, the pilots can agree
on who is PIC during what times, regardless of who is 'manipulating the
controls'.
The safety pilot MUST be appropriately rated for the aircraft being
flown. For instance, you can not have a student pilot act as a safety
pilot, or a pilot rated only for single-engine can't be a safety pilot
on a multi-engine aircraft.
Dennis Glaeser
---------------------------------------------------
It's my understanding that *both* pilots can log PIC time when one is
under
the hood (simulated instrument conditions, not actual), as long as the
safety pilot is rated for the given category & class, and type if a type
rating is required. Any private pilot can act as safety pilot in any
airplane regardless of type, but he can only log it as PIC if
appropriately
rated and endorsed.
---snip--------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Another good experience with GRT |
At the risk of repeating myself, the folks at Grand Rapids Technology, the EIS
and now MFD people, are definitely among the greatest to work with. My EIS 4000
has worked flawlessly for the first 180 hours, but the carb air temp probe
suddenly went bonkers last week. After checking the wiring I called and explained
the problem to Sandy and gave her my CC number to send me a new probe. The
upshot is a new probe is in the mail and there is NO charge.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 181 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAR Safety question. |
Nope. Go to AOPA website members section under FAQ. Logging time as PIC
and being PIC are two unrelated items.
linn Walters wrote:
>
> Hmmm. I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination (nor do I play
> one on TV :-P ) but I believe that in order to log PIC time, you must be
> the sole manipulator of the controls and have a valid pilot's license.
> As for logging the flight time, if you're not a licensed instructor I
> guess you're just like a passenger keeping an eye out for bandits. I
> don't know why an FAA 'guru' can't answer that question though. Kinda
> perpetuates the general opinion of the FAA, doesn't it??? Do not
> archive in case the FAA's reading this!!! :-)
>
> Just my thoughts. YMMV.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KellyM <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAR Safety question. |
Nope, not true. If safety pilot IS PIC, and pilot under the hood is sole
manipulator of the controls, both can log PIC time.
Glaeser, Dennis A wrote:
>
> Please note that both pilots can NOT log PIC for the same time! (legally
> anyway :-) As noted in the link that Dan provided, the pilots can agree
> on who is PIC during what times, regardless of who is 'manipulating the
> controls'.
>
> The safety pilot MUST be appropriately rated for the aircraft being
> flown. For instance, you can not have a student pilot act as a safety
> pilot, or a pilot rated only for single-engine can't be a safety pilot
> on a multi-engine aircraft.
>
> Dennis Glaeser
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Opinions on antenae in VS |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
I'm about to close up my VS and need to decide if there's anything I want to put
in there.
I know I don't want a strobe there but have been thinking about antenae. However,
since it looks like my 9A will be light up front (320 with Catto prop and
RG batt), and I didn't do the "optional" lightening holes in the VS spar, I think
I want to avoid any unneccessary weight in the VS at all. Many people seem
to do the nav & com in the wingtips which seems to work well.
So, those are my thoughts now, but if someone would like to tell me differently
I would like to hear it. Thank you.
Paul
9A QB #1176
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Re: FAR Safety question. |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
Regarding Safety Pilots, I've always taught that only one pilot can log
PIC at a time. The other one can log SIC when the PIC is under the
hood.
The article indicates that 'if the pilots agree' that the safety pilot
is PIC, then that pilot can log PIC, and that the other pilot, who is
manipulating the controls, can also log PIC (since that is the
definition in the FARs). I think that is stretching the rule to justify
double logging PIC time. In case of a violation or accident, that
'agreement' would be meaningless IMHO (I'm not a lawyer or with the
FAA).
My first question when someone asks me about this is: why is it so
important to log PIC time when you are a safety pilot? Are you trying
to qualify for a rating, meet some insurance requirement, get a flying
job, or what? Back when you had to have 200 hrs to get an instrument
rating, that was a motivation to get as much PIC time quickly as
possible. Now it that not really an issue.
Dennis
---------------------
Dennis,
It was a little qirky the way it was written, but it did say you could
both log the time if the safety pilot was PIC and properly rated. The
legality of PIC was the issue. If the safety pilot is PIC then he is
responsible if there was a violation, or accident, etc. I read it twice,
and thought as you did at first.
Tim
---------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: Opinions on antenae in VS |
a bullet (aka lipstick or spy) camera in the vertical stab fiberglass tip is a
cool option. You'll want to make the fiberglass tip removable and as an option
you might want to run some wire or string down between the two forward tooling
holes you will have to open up to pass the stab cam cables through. No big
deal. Just makes life a teensy bit easier later on.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com>
>
>
> I'm about to close up my VS and need to decide if there's anything I want to
put
> in there.
>
> I know I don't want a strobe there but have been thinking about antenae.
> However, since it looks like my 9A will be light up front (320 with Catto prop
> and RG batt), and I didn't do the "optional" lightening holes in the VS spar,
I
> think I want to avoid any unneccessary weight in the VS at all. Many people
> seem to do the nav & com in the wingtips which seems to work well.
>
> So, those are my thoughts now, but if someone would like to tell me differently
> I would like to hear it. Thank you.
>
> Paul
> 9A QB #1176
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
a bullet (aka lipstick or spy)camera in the vertical stab fiberglass tip is a cool
option. You'll want to make the fiberglass tip removable and as an option
you might want to run some wire or string down between the two forward tooling
holes you will have to open up to pass the stab cam cables through. No big deal.
Just makes life a teensy bit easier later on.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Folbrecht, Paul" PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com
-- RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul"
I'm about to close up my VS and need to decide if there's anything I want to put
in there.
I know I don't want a strobe there but have been thinking about antenae.
However, since it looks like my 9A will be light up front (320 with Catto prop
and RG batt), and I didn't do the "optional" lightening holes in the VS spar,
I
think I want to avoid any unneccessary weight in the VS at all. Many people
seem to do the nav com in the wingtips which seems to work well.
So, those are my thoughts now, but if someone would like to tell me differently
I would like to hear i
t. Thank you.
Paul
9A QB #1176
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Re: FAR Safety question. |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
The AOPA FAQ reads very similar to the article Dan noted. Looks like
I'm out-voted, as long as the safety pilot agrees to be responsible for
the flight (one of the ways to be PIC). If you want/need the PIC time -
go for it. The reality is that there is no way to dispute it anyway.
It's important to know the correct way to explain things - with
references like the AOPA - if a situation ever comes up that requires
it. Good discussion!
Dennis
Nope. Go to AOPA website members section under FAQ. Logging time as PIC
and being PIC are two unrelated items.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JIM ETCHEVERRY" <ETCHY1(at)comcast.net> |
The fuselage stand I am talking about attaches to the firewall and tailend. It
hold the fuselage before the gear is put on and you can rotate the fuselage 360
if you want. Anybody have one they are done with and want to sell it? Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Opinions on antenae in VS |
> Many people seem to do the nav & com in the wingtips which seems to work
> well.
I am not sure I have heard of people happy with wingtip comm antenna.
VOR yes.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey Guys,
N327W made it on Doug Reeve's site (www.vansairforce.net) as RV Of The Week
this week!!!!
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Light Bulb |
Ed, find out what the wattage is for the 313, Go to the aviation
section of your local auto parts store and see if you can find a 12V
bulb with the same base, wattage, and physical size (if the present bulb
is a tight fit). You might be able to find a table on the I'net that
will list all the bulbs and their specs. There is no #313 bulb in 12V
because the number is for a 28V bulb.
Ed OConnor wrote:
>
>I just wanted to find out if anyone knows a source for a 12 volt # 313
>bulb. I have a cockpit map light from a F-100 I acquired many years
>ago and I thought I would check to see if I can rig it up in my RV.
>Aircraft Spruce has the 313 but it only lists it in a 28 volt version.
>Maybe there is a substitute that will work in 12 volt.
>Ed O'Connor/ RV-8 N-366RV/ awaiting first flight.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Help on Holes in Fuse for Brake Lines... |
I was drilling the holes for the landing gear and the brake lines as per the template
on DWG 34A for the RV-7A. It says to enlarge the pilot
hole for the brake line as per DWG 28. DWG 28 says to drill it to 5/8" for the
brake line. The problem is that 5/8" seems waay to big for the
hardware called out on DWG 36A (AN837-4D 45 deg. Elbow). I already drilled the
hole to 5/8" per the plans and there is a lot of wiggle
room. Are the plans wrong on this or am I missing something???
P.S. I noticed that on another fitting (the fuel vent) it calls out 7/16" hole
in the fuse skin which seems correct...
- Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Opinions on antenae in VS |
My VS on my -10 will have a cats whisker VOR/ILS/GS antenna on the top of
it.
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
#40137
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Opinions on antenae in VS
>
>
>> Many people seem to do the nav & com in the wingtips which seems to work
>> well.
>
> I am not sure I have heard of people happy with wingtip comm antenna.
> VOR yes.
>
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Brand new Red Dragon Pre Heater for sale |
FYI...on Ebay....
Preheater, RED DRAGON LT2-12 MH-200 Brand New
Item number: 4614781236
Thanks
Dave Mc.
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Louvers (was vernatherm success) |
Vince,
I had the same problem 5 years ago when I finished my RV8 with 200 hp
lycoming. Before you cut your cowl, try the following:
Install a Niagara/Harrison 10 row oil cooler on the rear baffle behind
cylinder 4 as high as cowl clearance will permit. Tilt it back
approximately 25 degrees or more if clearance from engine mount will allow.
When making pie shaped supports, use 040 or 050 4130 steel instead of
aluminum. The brackets if made from aluminum will crack in a few hours of
operation. I have enjoyed normal oil temps in all weather conditions since
installing this mod.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 7:16 AM
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Louvers (was vernatherm success)
>
>
>>I too have been fighting high oil temps with an IO-360 in an RV-8A. Can
>>you
>>put me in contact with your source for louvers?
>>
>>Vince Welch
>
>
> I had them made locally using Home Depot aluminum by a guy who
> does it for race cars. Another source is at this link:
>
> http://www.attawayair.com/rv6a.htm
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Farner" <sfarner(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help on Holes in Fuse for Brake Lines... |
Matt,
I believe that the elbow is not attached to the skin, but rather the landing
gear mount, where the elbow fitting is inserted up the hole on the mount
with the nut on top.
The fuel vent fitting you mentioned is directly attached to the skin.
Scott
www.scottfarner.com
RV-7A Finish
On 2/20/06, Matt Johnson wrote:
>
>
> I was drilling the holes for the landing gear and the brake lines as per
> the template on DWG 34A for the RV-7A. It says to enlarge the pilot
> hole for the brake line as per DWG 28. DWG 28 says to drill it to 5/8" for
> the brake line. The problem is that 5/8" seems waay to big for the
> hardware called out on DWG 36A (AN837-4D 45 deg. Elbow). I already drilled
> the hole to 5/8" per the plans and there is a lot of wiggle
> room. Are the plans wrong on this or am I missing something???
>
> P.S. I noticed that on another fitting (the fuel vent) it calls out 7/16"
> hole in the fuse skin which seems correct...
>
> - Matt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | FS: uEncoder, g-meter |
I'm re-doing my panel yet again before even flying the plane, so...
FOR SALE: installed in panel but never used, repacked in original
packaging...
Rocky Mountain Instruments microEncoder
-More info at http://www.rkymtn.com/
-Fully assembled and tested, all current updates & software
-GREAT support from RMI is transferrable, just give them the serial num.
-Kit is $879, sell for $600 including shipping (continental US)
Wultrad G-Meter CA 5
-2.25" Panel mount, unlit
-$210 new, sell for $150 including shipping (continental US)
Picture of both installed in panel...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Panel/DSC_0627.jpg
Contact: Randy Lervold, 360-882-8728 or randy(at)romeolima.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | G McNutt <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Opinions on antenae in VS |
Folbrecht, Paul wrote:
>I'm about to close up my VS and need to decide if there's anything I want to put
in there.
>
>Paul
>
>You'll want to make the H/S fiberglass tip removable and open up the two forward
tooling holes and put snap bushings in them, then you can add anything you
want at a later date.
>
>
George in Langley BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help on Holes in Fuse for Brake Lines... |
Thanks Scott. I would have never guessed that on my own and I looked at the plans
many times. Thank God for these forums.
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Scott Farner" <sfarner(at)gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 19:37:35 -0800
Subject: Re: RV-List: Help on Holes in Fuse for Brake Lines...
>
> Matt,
>
> I believe that the elbow is not attached to the skin, but rather the
> landing
> gear mount, where the elbow fitting is inserted up the hole on the
> mount
> with the nut on top.
>
> The fuel vent fitting you mentioned is directly attached to the skin.
>
> Scott
> www.scottfarner.com
> RV-7A Finish
>
>
> On 2/20/06, Matt Johnson wrote:
> >
> >
> > I was drilling the holes for the landing gear and the brake lines as
> per
> > the template on DWG 34A for the RV-7A. It says to enlarge the pilot
> > hole for the brake line as per DWG 28. DWG 28 says to drill it to
> 5/8" for
> > the brake line. The problem is that 5/8" seems waay to big for the
> > hardware called out on DWG 36A (AN837-4D 45 deg. Elbow). I already
> drilled
> > the hole to 5/8" per the plans and there is a lot of wiggle
> > room. Are the plans wrong on this or am I missing something???
> >
> > P.S. I noticed that on another fitting (the fuel vent) it calls out
> 7/16"
> > hole in the fuse skin which seems correct...
> >
> > - Matt
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Opinions on antenae in VS |
I have acquired an active helical GPS antenna I plan to put under the VS radome.
See:
http://www.sarantel.com/products/#s
Doug Gray
Folbrecht, Paul wrote:
>
> I'm about to close up my VS and need to decide if there's anything I want to
put in there.
>
> I know I don't want a strobe there but have been thinking about antenae. However,
since it looks like my 9A will be light up front (320 with Catto prop and
RG batt), and I didn't do the "optional" lightening holes in the VS spar, I
think I want to avoid any unneccessary weight in the VS at all. Many people seem
to do the nav & com in the wingtips which seems to work well.
>
> So, those are my thoughts now, but if someone would like to tell me differently
I would like to hear it. Thank you.
>
> Paul
> 9A QB #1176
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Light Bulb |
Hi,
In the Newark catalog they list the followin numbers as 14 VDC lamps with the
same base, T3 1/4:
756
1813
1815
1893
Hope this helps, might find some in auto parts.
Paul
QB RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAR Safety question. |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Both pilots can indeed log the time PIC (only when under the hood) if the safety
pilot agrees to be the acting pilot in command. Done it many, many times building
those multi PIC hours back when I was pursuing the flying career dream.
Some may scoff at the concept, but it's very legal and no different than taking
advantage of an allowable tax deduction.
Bryan Jones - MEI, CFII
Houston, Texas
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=13755#13755
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | pitot tube group buy |
Ok fellow builders, I have had several inquiries about whether or not I would discount
my pitot tube kits for a group buy. Since I am currently participating
in the Hooker harness group buy I can hardly say no. So heres the deal...I will
discount the kit by 25% for a group buy of 10 or more, limited to the stock
on hand. Anybody interested should just call or email me directly and add your
name to the list. As soon as I hit the 10 mark I will ship them out. Those interested
can have a look at the kits at the following link:
http://www.evansaviationproducts.com/Other%20Products.htm
Cheers...
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530) 351-1776 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Opinions on antenae in VS |
| From: | "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht(at)starkinvestments.com> |
Have to ask - why not hide it?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Opinions on antenae in VS
My VS on my -10 will have a cats whisker VOR/ILS/GS antenna on the top
of
it.
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
#40137
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Opinions on antenae in VS
>
>
>> Many people seem to do the nav & com in the wingtips which seems to
work
>> well.
>
> I am not sure I have heard of people happy with wingtip comm antenna.
> VOR yes.
>
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kelby alexander <n41va(at)blazemail.com> |
| Subject: | Remember Von Alexander? |
Hey guys, I was just wondering if you guys remember Von Alexander. He died in the
Rv-8 that me (his son) and him built. It crashed in July of 1999 on its way
home from the Arlington Airshow. I know he really LOVED this list and the help
that everybody gave him. If you remember him, I would love to hear your thoughts
about him and our RV-8 if you had a chance to see it.
Also I had another idea that I wanted your guy's feedback on. I thought about having
a "Fly in Lunch" at the Independence Oregon Airport in memory of my dad.
Maybe around the 10th of July (when the accident occured). Would anybody be up
to flying their rv's and join in on it? Just a thought.
THANKS!
Kelby L Alexander
Fight the power! BlazeMail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remember Von Alexander? |
kelby alexander wrote:
>
>
>
> Hey guys, I was just wondering if you guys remember Von Alexander. He
> died in the Rv-8 that me (his son) and him built. It crashed in July
> of 1999 on its way home from the Arlington Airshow. I know he really
> LOVED this list and the help that everybody gave him. If you remember
> him, I would love to hear your thoughts about him and our RV-8 if you
> had a chance to see it.
Hi Kelby,
I remember with fondness your Dad's enthusiasm for his RV-8 and his
eagerness to associate with this list. I was building my RV-6 while your
-8 was coming together and recall many of the construction issues we all
worked through at that time. I never had an opportunity to see your
plane since we live on opposite sides of the country, but the RV-8 photo
was on my website for several years.
I hope the years since the accident have enhanced the great memories you
have of your father and the project you shared. I wish you and your
family the very best.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remember Von Alexander? |
Kelby:
I remember Von. I offered to pick him up in Green Bay and get him to
Oshkosh one year....obviously before he had the 8 done.
He was always very helpful on the RV list, which was much appreciated.
A flyin in his memory sure sounds like a great idea. I am sure the guys out
on the left coast will be interested.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "kelby alexander" <n41va(at)blazemail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: Remember Von Alexander?
>
>
> Hey guys, I was just wondering if you guys remember Von Alexander. He died
> in the Rv-8 that me (his son) and him built. It crashed in July of 1999 on
> its way home from the Arlington Airshow. I know he really LOVED this list
> and the help that everybody gave him. If you remember him, I would love to
> hear your thoughts about him and our RV-8 if you had a chance to see it.
>
>
> Also I had another idea that I wanted your guy's feedback on. I thought
> about having a "Fly in Lunch" at the Independence Oregon Airport in memory
> of my dad. Maybe around the 10th of July (when the accident occured).
> Would anybody be up to flying their rv's and join in on it? Just a
> thought.
>
>
> THANKS!
>
>
> Kelby L Alexander
>
>
> Fight the power! BlazeMail.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Remember Von Alexander? |
In a message dated 2/21/2006 7:55:18 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
n41va(at)blazemail.com writes:
Hey guys, I was just wondering if you guys remember Von Alexander. He died
in the Rv-8 that me (his son) and him built. It crashed in July of 1999 on its
way home from the Arlington Airshow. I know he really LOVED this list and
the help that everybody gave him. If you remember him, I would love to hear
your thoughts about him and our RV-8 if you had a chance to see it.
======================================
Kelby-
I didn't know your dad personally, but knew of him and also his tragic
misfortune. I think of him when I run over the few RV mishaps in my mind from
time to time. The loss of every RV pilot hits very close to home.
Flying RV's is so much fun that we often forget that it can also be
dangerous when something goes wrong. I won't be in you area in July, but send
all of
my good wishes to you and your family.
Gary VanRemortel (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley,
CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Remember Von Alexander? |
Hello Kelby,
Of course I remember your Dad, although I had just met him at the Scappoose
fly-in a month or so before his accident. I also remember him well from this
RV list. If you haven't already, to the Matronics website (see the bottom of
any RV list message, including this one) and search with your Dad's name. It
will bring back memories of the questions and thoughts he had while you and
he were building. And it reminds me, at least, of the fine man that he was.
Of course you know that, but you should know that many of us who knew him or
only or primarily through the list know that too.
Your idea of a fly-in lunch sounds like a good one, but I STILL won't be
flying by then.
Thanks for checking back in on the RV list.
Terry
RV-8A #80729 baffles
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kelby alexander
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 7:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: Remember Von Alexander?
Hey guys, I was just wondering if you guys remember Von Alexander. He died
in the Rv-8 that me (his son) and him built. It crashed in July of 1999 on
its way home from the Arlington Airshow. I know he really LOVED this list
and the help that everybody gave him. If you remember him, I would love to
hear your thoughts about him and our RV-8 if you had a chance to see it.
Also I had another idea that I wanted your guy's feedback on. I thought
about having a "Fly in Lunch" at the Independence Oregon Airport in memory
of my dad. Maybe around the 10th of July (when the accident occured). Would
anybody be up to flying their rv's and join in on it? Just a thought.
THANKS!
Kelby L Alexander
Fight the power! BlazeMail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remember Von Alexander? |
kelby alexander wrote:
>
>
>Hey guys, I was just wondering if you guys remember Von Alexander. He died in
the Rv-8 that me (his son) and him built. It crashed in July of 1999 on its way
home from the Arlington Airshow. I know he really LOVED this list and the help
that everybody gave him. If you remember him, I would love to hear your thoughts
about him and our RV-8 if you had a chance to see it.
>
>
>
Hi Kelby,
I met your dad at the Twin Oaks flyin breakfast and had some good
conversations with him. He was a fine person and
I think of him often and the great loss we all experienced. The day he
left Arlington he came over to where my wife and
I were camped with our RV-6 to say good bye, little did we realize it
would be the last good bye. It is hard to believe
that happened in 1999 it still seems like yesterday. If a fly in event
in your dads memory becomes a reality I would love to attend.
I see that July 10th is a Monday so would probably be difficult for
working people to attend and the week before that is the
Arlington fly in. Maybe you could contact the local EAA 105 and builders
group and do something at the Arlington flyin.
I know the local builders group always has some type of get together there.
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "NEIL HENDERSON" <neil459(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Replacment Canopy |
Listers
I need to source a replacement canopy for an RV7. I've just taken over a quick
build project and the original builder has made such a bodge job that I need to
start again. I'll be ordering the metal parts from Vans but I seem to recall
a thread about a year back on a less expensive source for the plexey. I've tried
looking in the archives without success. Can anyone point me in the right
direction?
Neil Henderson RV9 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kelby alexander <n41va(at)blazemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remember Von Alexander? |
Wow thats hard to think about isnt it? You know that was pretty much the only time
in 16 years I didnt fly with my dad. I woke up that morning with an invitation
to go surfing or go with my dad to Arlignton. I decided without a doubt to
go to the airshow but my dad wouldnt let me, he told me I would be too hot in
the back of the -8. So he made me go surfing but he promised on his way home
he would do a couple fly by's at the beach we were at. When he never came over,
I knew something was wrong.
Having something for him at Arlington is a great idea, or even a "fly in" in June
would be great. I just want to make sure that we can have a good turn out.
Im am going to be starting an RV-8 of my own (as soon as I save up the money,
hopefully this summer) in his memory. So if anybody has any old tools they would
like to donate or sell me or a portion of a hanger to work in ( I will be in
the Salem Oregon area) Please drop me an email. I hope to be able to start on
the tail kit in a few months. I am 23 so money isnt easy to come by, but I think
I can do it over time. So be prepared for a TON of questions. I am going
to dedicate it to my Father and every other RV pilot that we have lost over the
years. I will keep in touch with you guys about a fly in, if you all would be
up to it!?
Thanks for your time and kind words, its so nice to know my Dad had a good reputation
with you guys and I hope I can follow in his footsteps and be friends with
you guys as well. He ALWAYS had only good things to say about this list. And
when it was midnight and we were totally stuck on something, he would always
say, forget it tonight, Ill just ask the guys on the RV list, they will know
the answer. I look forward to meeting as many of you guys as possible over the
years.
--- Jerry Springer jsflyrv(at)comcast.net wrote:
From: Jerry Springer jsflyrv(at)comcast.net
Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 21:33:44 -0800
Subject: Re: RV-List: Remember Von Alexander?
-- RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer jsflyrv(at)comcast.net
kelby alexander wrote:
-- RV-List message posted by: kelby alexander n41va(at)blazemail.com
Hey guys, I was just wondering if you guys remember Von Alexander. He died in the
Rv-8 that me (his son) and him built. It crashed in July of 1999 on its way
home from the Arlington Airshow. I know he really LOVED this list and the help
that everybody gave him. If you remember him, I would love to hear your thoughts
about him and our RV-8 if you had a chance to see it.
Hi Kelby,
I met your dad at the Twin Oaks flyin breakfast and had some good
conversations with him. He was a fine person and
I think of him often and the great loss we all experienced. The day he
left Arlington he came over to where my wife and
I were camped with our RV-6 to say good bye, little did we realize it
would be the last good bye. It is hard to believe
that happened in 1999 it still seems like yesterday. If a fly in event
in your dads memory becomes a reality I would love to attend.
I see that July 10th is a Monday so would probably be difficult for
working people to attend and the week before that is the
Arlington fly in. Maybe you could contact the local EAA 105 and builders
group and do something at the Arlington flyin.
I know the local builders group always has some type of get together there.
February 02, 2006 - February 22, 2006
RV-Archive.digest.vol-rr