RV-Archive.digest.vol-rv
March 29, 2006 - April 18, 2006
inadvertent spin.
As Einstein was reported to have said: " A mechanism should be as
simple as
practicable...but no simpler" (or words to that effect). In aviation
oversimplification can introduce risk...just look at Van's nose gear.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Ross" <dcr(at)fdltownhomes.com> |
| Subject: | O-360 motor mounts |
Guys: There is a guy advertising Lord motor mounts, complete set (4) for
$55,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LYCOMING-DINAFOCAL-MOTOR-MOUNTS-LORD-NOS_W0QQ
cmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ26437QQitemZ4621714953. These are 21/4 diameter and
the hard mounts. Question: Will these fit the motor mount supplied by Vans
for the O-360? What do you think? Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Oil filler / dipstick tube gasket or O-ring |
Fellow listers,
I'm starting my firewall foreward after getting a new CW crankshaft (per SB566).
I've got the engine on the mount and the mount on the fuse.
I was looking at the oil filler / dipstick tube...there's an O-ring at the top
to
seal the dipstick cap with the top of the tube. There's also room for another
O-ring
at the bottom of the tube to seal it with the crankcase. The O-ring at the top
is there - but not the one for the bottom. I've heard some say that a gasket goes
at the bottom.
Anyone know what it should be and what the correct part number is?????
The engine is an O360B1F6 with AFP inj and Lasar ign
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6A N822AR @ N06 firewall foreward.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LycomingEngines-List: Oil filler / dipstick tube gasket or |
O-ring
Thanks Dan!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dan Checkoway <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>Sent: Mar 29, 2006 2:37 PM
>To: lycomingengines-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: LycomingEngines-List: Oil filler / dipstick tube gasket or O-ring
>
>--> LycomingEngines-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
>
>It's in the Lycoming parts catalog. Lycoming p/n 72059.
>
>Spruce sells it for $1.05. Some people I've talked to about this just use
>high-temp RTV to seal it instead of using the "washer" style gasket. I used
>the 72059 gasket and still get a little bit of weepage.
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D (842 hours)
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 11:18 AM
>Subject: LycomingEngines-List: Oil filler / dipstick tube gasket or O-ring
>
>
>> --> LycomingEngines-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>>
>>
>> Fellow listers,
>>
>> I'm starting my firewall foreward after getting a new CW crankshaft (per
>> SB566). I've got the engine on the mount and the mount on the fuse.
>>
>> I was looking at the oil filler / dipstick tube...there's an O-ring at the
>> top to seal the dipstick cap with the top of the tube. There's also room
>> for another O-ring at the bottom of the tube to seal it with the
>> crankcase. The O-ring at the top is there - but not the one for the
>> bottom. I've heard some say that a gasket goes at the bottom.
>>
>> Anyone know what it should be and what the correct part number is?????
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ralph Capen
>> RV6A N822AR @ N06 firewall foreward.....
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil filler / dipstick tube gasket or O-ring |
It's in the Lycoming parts catalog. Lycoming p/n 72059.
Spruce sells it for $1.05. Some people I've talked to about this just use
high-temp RTV to seal it instead of using the "washer" style gasket. I used
the 72059 gasket and still get a little bit of weepage.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (842 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 11:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oil filler / dipstick tube gasket or O-ring
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I'm starting my firewall foreward after getting a new CW crankshaft (per
> SB566).
> I've got the engine on the mount and the mount on the fuse.
>
> I was looking at the oil filler / dipstick tube...there's an O-ring at the
> top to
> seal the dipstick cap with the top of the tube. There's also room for
> another O-ring
> at the bottom of the tube to seal it with the crankcase. The O-ring at
> the top
> is there - but not the one for the bottom. I've heard some say that a
> gasket goes
> at the bottom.
>
> Anyone know what it should be and what the correct part number is?????
>
> The engine is an O360B1F6 with AFP inj and Lasar ign
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> RV6A N822AR @ N06 firewall foreward.....
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Tip tanks and spins |
It depends on the mission. My son the aero engineer made this comment.
Dad,
The writer of this article does have some valid things to say. I think it imprudent
to say that even a little gas in the tip tanks could be fatal, given that
no information about the airplanes stability coefficients or moments of inertia
is provided. However, I do think that unless you have that data it would
be unwise to take too big of a chance. There are other interesting advantages
to putting more weight in the tips; one, roll stability (the aircrafts tendency
to be upset by air perturbations) can be enhanced. Two, the weight in the tips
could lower the stresses in the wing spar root (hence the airbus A340 hangs
its engines way out on the wing).
There is a way to measure estimates for the spin stability coefficients but its
not terribly easy.
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Empennage
Idaho Falls
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LycomingEngines-List: Oil filler / dipstick tube gasket |
or O-ring
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
The 72059 is the correct P/N. It is a fibrous gasket and will seep
(sometimes). A trick used is to apply a small amount of locktite 515 or
more commonly known as 'grape jelly'on both sides of the gasket before
installing the fill tube, and then grip the tube with both hands and
rotate to tighten only until the fill tube quits rotating. If a wrench
is used, be extremely careful not to apply too much force as the tube
has been known to crack (don't ask how I know)
Allen Barrett
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 1:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: LycomingEngines-List: Oil filler / dipstick tube
gasket or O-ring
Thanks Dan!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dan Checkoway <dan(at)rvproject.com>
>Sent: Mar 29, 2006 2:37 PM
>To: lycomingengines-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: LycomingEngines-List: Oil filler / dipstick tube gasket or
O-ring
>
>--> LycomingEngines-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
>
>It's in the Lycoming parts catalog. Lycoming p/n 72059.
>
>Spruce sells it for $1.05. Some people I've talked to about this just
use
>high-temp RTV to seal it instead of using the "washer" style gasket. I
used
>the 72059 gasket and still get a little bit of weepage.
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D (842 hours)
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 11:18 AM
>Subject: LycomingEngines-List: Oil filler / dipstick tube gasket or
O-ring
>
>
>> --> LycomingEngines-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>>
>>
>> Fellow listers,
>>
>> I'm starting my firewall foreward after getting a new CW crankshaft
(per
>> SB566). I've got the engine on the mount and the mount on the fuse.
>>
>> I was looking at the oil filler / dipstick tube...there's an O-ring
at the
>> top to seal the dipstick cap with the top of the tube. There's also
room
>> for another O-ring at the bottom of the tube to seal it with the
>> crankcase. The O-ring at the top is there - but not the one for the
>> bottom. I've heard some say that a gasket goes at the bottom.
>>
>> Anyone know what it should be and what the correct part number
is?????
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ralph Capen
>> RV6A N822AR @ N06 firewall foreward.....
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Barrow" <bobbarrow10(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip tanks (more) |
Hi Fred, I must correct your statement below. Jon Johanson does not exclude
aerobatics when his tip tanks are installed. You must be misreading his
instructions. He specifically says no aeros when there's fuel in the
tips....that's all.
Of course there's always the small possibility that one might end up in an
inadvertent spin without doing aeros. So on that basis I wouldn't want to be
flying around with any fuel in the tips unless I specifically needed it for
a mission. On that basis I see it as important to be able to control fuel
from migrating from the mains to the tips at all times.
I look forward to recieving your feedback on your current experiment.
>
>
> First off, Jon explicitly states no aerobatics in his instructions.
>He also states that the plane must be placarded against spins
>if there is ANY fuel in the tip tanks. That's enough to convince
>me to adhere to those instructions.
New year, new job there's more than 100,00 jobs at SEEK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Barrow" <bobbarrow10(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tip tanks and spins |
Jon Johanson reports that with standard Vans wing tips on his RV4 the plane
will recover from a spin by simply releasing all control inputs
(specifically rudder). With the tip tanks installed (and fully empty) the
aircraft requires positive spin recovery inputs to stop the spin (works
within 1/4 turn). So there is some information that is relevant. By adding
approx 6 lb of mass to each tip his RV went from requiring no spin recovery
inputs to requiring positive spin recovery inputs. It is still safe...but
different conditions apply.
This leads me to the conclusion that 6 lb of additional mass at the wing tip
of an RV can in fact make a real difference in terms of spin recovery
characteristics.
If just 1 gal of fuel remained in the tips that would increase the tip tank
mass by another 6 lb. Am I saying that would definitely, absolutely,
positively cause real spin recovery problems...no I am not. I'm just saying
that it *could*...and I don't intend going there to find out.
My goal will be to instal a tip tank system that ensures that I have zero
fuel in the tips when I do not require tip fuel for a mission (which will be
most of the time).
>
>
>It depends on the mission. My son the aero engineer made this comment.
> Dad,
> The writer of this article does have some valid things to say. I think
>it imprudent to say that even a little gas in the tip tanks could be fatal,
>given that no information about the airplanes stability coefficients or
>moments of inertia is provided.
Search for local singles online @ Lavalife - Click here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for an engine |
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>Unless you're real careful, the last place you want to buy an engine is at a
>salvage yard. Last time I talked with my insurance contacts the insurance
>carriers that he knew of, were requiring the total destruction on the
>aircraft that were totaled because of water emersion and lack to treatment
>after they were pulled from the flood. The salvage yard had to crush them
>with a bulldozer and certify that all parts would never be in the stream of
>commerce again. What a waste.
>
One of the major underwriters had over a dozen a/c listed on its auction
site last fall, all saying 'immersed in salt water due to Hurricane
Katrina'. No mention of any requirement to crush the fruits of your
winning bid. I certainly wouldn't trust an airframe that had been
submerged in salt water for several weeks, but I doubt that the
insurance companies care as long as they have a contract signed by the
purchaser stating that he's aware of the history of the plane. (I doubt
you could get them to insure it, though...)
As others will attest, lots of people get excellent engines from salvage
yards. It obviously carries some risk, but buying a used a/c is almost
as big a crap shoot, since you have no way of knowing its real history
unless you are familiar with the plane. Log books don't tell you any
more about an engine on a flying a/c than they do about a salvage
engine. The key, for me would be to buy from a reputable yard & get
everything in writing.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for an engine |
I got the crush requirement from 2 separate yard managers I talked to. The
reason is that once the salt water receded, there was a long time delay
before anyone could get to the submerged aircraft and rinse them with fresh
water. As a result all suffered major salt water corrosion and rust.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Looking for an engine
Bruce Gray wrote:
>
>Unless you're real careful, the last place you want to buy an engine is at
a
>salvage yard. Last time I talked with my insurance contacts the insurance
>carriers that he knew of, were requiring the total destruction on the
>aircraft that were totaled because of water emersion and lack to treatment
>after they were pulled from the flood. The salvage yard had to crush them
>with a bulldozer and certify that all parts would never be in the stream of
>commerce again. What a waste.
>
One of the major underwriters had over a dozen a/c listed on its auction
site last fall, all saying 'immersed in salt water due to Hurricane
Katrina'. No mention of any requirement to crush the fruits of your
winning bid. I certainly wouldn't trust an airframe that had been
submerged in salt water for several weeks, but I doubt that the
insurance companies care as long as they have a contract signed by the
purchaser stating that he's aware of the history of the plane. (I doubt
you could get them to insure it, though...)
As others will attest, lots of people get excellent engines from salvage
yards. It obviously carries some risk, but buying a used a/c is almost
as big a crap shoot, since you have no way of knowing its real history
unless you are familiar with the plane. Log books don't tell you any
more about an engine on a flying a/c than they do about a salvage
engine. The key, for me would be to buy from a reputable yard & get
everything in writing.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Fenstermacher <davidfenster(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip tanks and wing root stresses |
Randall - where were you in the 135? Anyway...
So you must remember a spin in a 37 was a wild ride "Low, Left, and Light".
Low entry (Non-aggressive stall)
Left entry (Had to do with the rotation of the engine)
Light weight (yes, LIGHT weight)
I have spun (in my younger and dumber days) civil AC. In comparison to
the 37, they were more of a spiral. Let loose of pro spin controls and
the thing stops. Unlike the 37 - if you do not provide anti-spin
controls in a definite sequence, the spin will continue or flip over to
inverted. With your head banging around the canopy. My point - if you
think about spinning an aircraft w/o knowing how to get out (not just
letting go of the stick) you are asking for trouble. Yes - in most
circumstances, letting go of pro-spin inputs will drop you out of the
spin. But - does anyone really know the inputs to get you out in an RV
if the crap hits the fan?
In the military we had BOLDFACE. Procedures which were committed to
memory. Spin recovery was one of them.
I would like to see a discussion of pro-spin inputs to get out.
I'll start:
Throttles--Idle
Rudder and Ailerons--Neutral
Stick--Abruptly full aft and hold
Rudder--Abruptly apply full Rudder opposite spin direction (opposite
turn needle) and hold
Stick--Abruptly full forward one turn after applying rudder
Controls--Neutral after spinning stops and recover from dive
The above is the 37 boldface. It is meant as a start. Chances are it
would work, but what do I know...
Let's start the flaming.
Randall Richter wrote:
>
> I gotta chime in here. I've flown KC-135s and C-130s, both of which are
> about 130' wide. You can put something like 62,000 lbs of fuel across the
> wings of the tanker and 44,000 in the wing of the Herc. For these types of
> acft, wing fuel distribution, loading and burn sequence is a factor. They're
> limited to 2.5g load factor for this and other reasons.
>
> When you're talking a roughly 10' wing with 120 lbs of fuel in each side
> (chock full), I'm thinking that sweating the burn sequence is a waste of
> brain cells. If you've got tips, burn mains down till they can take the tip
> quantity, then drain. Don't over-complicate your plumbing.
>
> This is all the thought I'll devote to this subject.
>
> Randy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Advanced Flight EFIS Price |
We have our Special Pricing for Sun-n-Fun
Dual Screen AF-3400 System Including the following:
1. AF-3400 EFIS
2. AF-3400 Engine Monitor
3. ALL Engine Probes and Sensors, Including Fuel Flow for 4 Cylinder
4. External Magnetometer
Our AHRS is based on certified boards and software.
&
You don't pay anything until the system is ready to ship.
Booth D-92 Price: $6,999
Upgrade any Screen to the AF-3500 for only $400 each.
6 Cylinder Upgrade $200
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Tip tanks and wing root stresses |
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tip tanks and wing root stresses
>.I gotta chime in here. I've flown KC-135s and C-130s, both of which are
>about 130' wide... ...when you're talking a roughly 10' wing with 120
lbs of fuel in each side
>(chock full), I'm thinking that sweating the burn sequence is a waste of
>brain cells...
Let's see, the Boeings I've flown burn the center first, as do the
Airbusses. On the other hand, the 45' Westwind I've flown burns... ah...
the center first. Hmmm. Well, at least the 36' Cessna 310 I've flown
burns the... ah.. inboards first.
>This is all the thought I'll devote to this subject.
How unfortunate.
For those who are interested, consider two chairs, a yardstick, and a roll
of quarters. Place the yardstick across the backs of the chairs. Now
place the roll of quarters on the middle of the yardstick and watch the
yardstick flex and fall between the chairs. Replace the yardstick, unroll
the quarters, and distribute them along the span of the yardstick. Watch
in amazement as the yardstick carries the load.
Now consider that the RV series was not designed with tip tanks.
The size of the aircraft is not relevant. Whatever it's size, it was
designed to do a particular job. Distributing the fuel towards the tips
decreases bending loads on the spar, which has a positive impact on both
the instantaneous load it can carry as well as it's fatigue life.
Operate your aircraft however you see fit, but physics is physics...
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip tanks and wing root stresses |
On 30 Mar 2006, at 05:05, Glen Matejcek wrote:
>
>
> Now consider that the RV series was not designed with tip tanks.
>
> The size of the aircraft is not relevant. Whatever it's size, it was
> designed to do a particular job. Distributing the fuel towards the
> tips
> decreases bending loads on the spar, which has a positive impact on
> both
> the instantaneous load it can carry as well as it's fatigue life.
>
> Operate your aircraft however you see fit, but physics is physics...
I certainly agree that burning the inboard fuel first will reduce
wing bending loads. That could be a significant issue if you wanted
to do aerobatics with fuel in the tip tanks. But everyone seems to
agree that aerobatics should only be done when the tip tanks are empty.
The tip tanks will only be filled for cross country flight, when the
load factors are low. In this case, the wing bending stress would
only seem to be a concern if you got into heavy turbulence. If you
get into heavy turbulence with fuel in the tip tanks, you should slow
down, well below Va, to reduce the loads on the tip tank to wing
attachment.
I don't see wing bending loads as a major issue, considering how
people will fly the aircraft when there is fuel in the tip tanks. If
the wing is designed to take 6gs without tip tanks, surely it can
easily handle a typical cruise flight load spectrum with fuel in the
tips. What am I missing?
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tip tanks and wing root stresses |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
You aren't missing a thing (as usual!) The change in root stresses that
tip tanks in an RV would produce (or reduce) are miniscule in the big
picture. I think Konrad was looking for more of a theoretical answer to
enhance his understanding of how wing loading works.
Dennis Glaeser
RV-7A Fuselage
------------------------------------------
I don't see wing bending loads as a major issue, considering how people
will fly the aircraft when there is fuel in the tip tanks. If the wing
is designed to take 6gs without tip tanks, surely it can easily handle a
typical cruise flight load spectrum with fuel in the tips.
What am I missing?
Kevin Horton
RV-8 (finishing kit)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Sun-N-Fun --- 3LF Gas Prices |
Yesterday we had to increase our fuel costs.
We are now at $3.20 for 100 LL.
We had to take on more fuel and this was because of a cost increase to
us. This price should be good into May.
Phil at Litchfield, IL 3LF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chopper 1" <mkellems(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun-N-Fun --- Gas Prices |
RV Sun-N-Fun pilots - FYI - Fueled yesterday3/29 @ Courtland,Al for $2.87
per gal. self serve 24hrs.
This is in north Alabama. Lawrence County Airport Manager is Robert McClung
256-637-6000
----- Original Message -----
>
> Yesterday we had to increase our fuel costs.
>
> We are now at $3.20 for 100 LL.
> Phil at Litchfield, IL 3LF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip tanks and wing root stresses |
On 2:05:17 2006-03-30 "Glen Matejcek" wrote:
> Now consider that the RV series was not designed with tip tanks.
This is irrelevant. The RV was designed to carry the fuel as (effectively)
a roll of quarters placed at the center of the span, since it was designed
with only inboard tanks.
Adding fuel further out merely decreases the load on the wing during
cruise. Burning the fuel from the wingtip first, you just return to the
stock configuration, which is fuel centered near the fuselage. So at no
point are you worse off than having just fuel in the inboard tanks.
> physics is physics...
Funny, that's what I was thinking... :)
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sun-N-Fun --- Gas Prices |
Any good fuel prices along the Gulf coast route (IH-10)? I'm going Houston to LAL.
Greg
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine compartment wiring |
Fellow listers,
I need to steal some more ideas for wiring in and around the engine. I am concerned
about routing the wiring and keeping it from flopping around. I'm thinking
a bunch of Adel clamps - but where/how attached/etc,
I have starter, alternators (both field and bus), CHTs, EGTs, oilpress, oiltemp,
fuelpress, sparkplugs, and more....
Pointers to web sites or pictures (off-list) of what you did, how you like it,
how well it works for maintenance would be greatly appreciated.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine compartment wiring |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Personally, I used Adel clamps for only heavy wire (starter, etc.) and larger bundles
of smaller wiring. Routing a couple of spark plug leads or a couple of
instrument leads, I use the double tie wrap attachment (one around the wires
and anchor point and one between).
Couple of things to consider. Try to keep fuel, oil and instrument leads separated/segregated.
Keep electrical power and fuel separated at all costs. Don't
forget to allow for movement of the engine in its mounts. Be aware of abrasion
at firewall and other penetrations. Don't let the leads rub on anything if
possible, especially something metal or abrasive. The vibration will eventually
wear through the insulation. Keep a little slack for future maintenance
(spark plug leads loose enough to actually remove). Keep them away from heat
as much as possible or use heat shields and/or insulation.
Finally, ask yourself "what if" very often. What if this wire is pulled, kinked,
rubbed, pinched? What if the cowling rubs on it when installed, will this
linkage rub or pinch. You get the picture. Do it right the first time and you'll
have a very reliable, safe machine for a long time.
I learned most of my techniques from an old A&P friend. I'm sure there are other
methods. Sorry, don't have any pics available. I'm sure others can help with
their suggestions.
2 cents
Bryan Jones -8
Houston
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25320#25320
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine compartment wiring |
Ralph,
I have a power-point that I down loaded from the FAA? It's overkill but
very informative.
I send you a copy . . . If anyone else would like a copy send me an email
off line.
Good Luck,
Bob C - in SE Iowa
flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com
On 3/30/06, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I need to steal some more ideas for wiring in and around the engine. I am
> concerned about routing the wiring and keeping it from flopping around. I'm
> thinking a bunch of Adel clamps - but where/how attached/etc,
>
> I have starter, alternators (both field and bus), CHTs, EGTs, oilpress,
> oiltemp, fuelpress, sparkplugs, and more....
>
> Pointers to web sites or pictures (off-list) of what you did, how you like
> it, how well it works for maintenance would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wgill10(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Engine compartment wiring |
Hello Bob,
Please email a copy my way. Thanks.
Bill
Lee's Summit, MO
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
>
> Ralph,
>
> I have a power-point that I down loaded from the FAA? It's overkill but
> very informative.
>
> I send you a copy . . . If anyone else would like a copy send me an email
> off line.
>
> Good Luck,
> Bob C - in SE Iowa
>
> flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com
>
>
> On 3/30/06, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
> >
> >
> > Fellow listers,
> >
> > I need to steal some more ideas for wiring in and around the engine. I am
> > concerned about routing the wiring and keeping it from flopping around. I'm
> > thinking a bunch of Adel clamps - but where/how attached/etc,
> >
> > I have starter, alternators (both field and bus), CHTs, EGTs, oilpress,
> > oiltemp, fuelpress, sparkplugs, and more....
> >
> > Pointers to web sites or pictures (off-list) of what you did, how you like
> > it, how well it works for maintenance would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Ralph Capen
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hello Bob,
Please email a copy my way. Thanks.
Bill
Lee's Summit, MO
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Bob C. " flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com
-- RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. "
Ralph,
I have a power-point that I down loaded from the FAA? It's overkill but
very informative.
I send you a copy . . . If anyone else would like a copy send me an email
off line.
Good Luck,
Bob C - in SE Iowa
flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com
On 3/30/06, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
-- RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
Fellow listers,
I need to steal some more ideas for wiring in and around the engine. I am
concerned about routing the wiri
ng and keeping it from flopping around. I'm
thinking a bunch of Adel clamps - but where/how attached/etc,
I have starter, alternators (both field and bus), CHTs, EGTs, oilpress,
oiltemp, fuelpress, sparkplugs, and more....
Pointers to web sites or pictures (off-list) of what you did, how you like
it, how well it works for maintenance would be greatly appreciated.
Ralph Capen
s page,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine compartment wiring |
better yet, download it here:
www.faa.gov/other_visit/aviation_industry/designees_delegations/training/der_present/la_may/media/Electrical%20Wiring.pdf
Bob C. wrote:
>
> Ralph,
>
> I have a power-point that I down loaded from the FAA? It's overkill but
> very informative.
>
> I send you a copy . . . If anyone else would like a copy send me an email
> off line.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-12 question |
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com wrote:
> Through January 2008 there is latitude because we can get it in under the
> "existing aircraft" category. But all these existing aircraft are supposed
> to be certificated prior to January 2008. After that there is a serious
> question. I think there will be some way to handle it but in what form I do
> not know at this time.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
Are you saying that after 2008 there will be no E-LSA?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25349#25349
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine compartment wiring |
I downloaded it - thanks
-----Original Message-----
>From: Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org>
>Sent: Mar 30, 2006 1:26 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine compartment wiring
>
>
>better yet, download it here:
>
>www.faa.gov/other_visit/aviation_industry/designees_delegations/training/der_present/la_may/media/Electrical%20Wiring.pdf
>
>
>Bob C. wrote:
>>
>> Ralph,
>>
>> I have a power-point that I down loaded from the FAA? It's overkill but
>> very informative.
>>
>> I send you a copy . . . If anyone else would like a copy send me an email
>> off line.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Engine compartment wiring |
Generally speaking, what I found worked best was two Adel clamps attached to each
other at each attach point. One goes around the nearest engine mount tube
and the other grips the wire(s), tubing or whatever. Worked well for me. In
the few locations that I used nylon wire ties I first slipped a short piece of
split hose over the engine mount tube to prevent abrasion.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 195 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I need to steal some more ideas for wiring in and around the engine. I am
> concerned about routing the wiring and keeping it from flopping around. I'm
> thinking a bunch of Adel clamps - but where/how attached/etc,
>
> I have starter, alternators (both field and bus), CHTs, EGTs, oilpress, oiltemp,
> fuelpress, sparkplugs, and more....
>
> Pointers to web sites or pictures (off-list) of what you did, how you like it,
> how well it works for maintenance would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Ralph Capen
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip tanks and wing root stresses |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>On 30 Mar 2006, at 05:05, Glen Matejcek wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>Now consider that the RV series was not designed with tip tanks.
>>
>>The size of the aircraft is not relevant. Whatever it's size, it was
>>designed to do a particular job. Distributing the fuel towards the
>>tips
>>decreases bending loads on the spar, which has a positive impact on
>>both
>>the instantaneous load it can carry as well as it's fatigue life.
>>
>>Operate your aircraft however you see fit, but physics is physics...
>>
>>
>
>I certainly agree that burning the inboard fuel first will reduce
>wing bending loads. That could be a significant issue if you wanted
>to do aerobatics with fuel in the tip tanks. But everyone seems to
>agree that aerobatics should only be done when the tip tanks are empty.
>
>The tip tanks will only be filled for cross country flight, when the
>load factors are low. In this case, the wing bending stress would
>only seem to be a concern if you got into heavy turbulence. If you
>get into heavy turbulence with fuel in the tip tanks, you should slow
>down, well below Va, to reduce the loads on the tip tank to wing
>attachment.
>
>I don't see wing bending loads as a major issue, considering how
>people will fly the aircraft when there is fuel in the tip tanks. If
>the wing is designed to take 6gs without tip tanks, surely it can
>easily handle a typical cruise flight load spectrum with fuel in the
>tips. What am I missing?
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
I don't see bending loads as an issue; I see roll & yaw authority when
low & slow in the pattern as the issue. In cruise configuration maybe it
makes sense to reduce control sensitivity a bit, but I want 'normal'
handling in the pattern. My concern is breaking a wing against the
ground after an inadvertent almost developed spin, not overloading it.
Aren't handling issues why most wing mounted aux tank systems say no acro?
I know Kevin knows about this, but for those who want to burn the
inboard tanks 1st, try this. Apply the roll of quarters trick to
control. Spread 'em out, tape them down, twirl the stick around your
body, & stop it as quickly as possible. Then try the same trick with
the whole roll at the outer end.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight EFIS Price |
Special pricing for a AOA wing kit? My empennagge is nearly competed and I will
be starting on the wing soon.
We have our Special Pricing for Sun-n-Fun
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Empennage
Idaho Falls
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-Spin, was Tip Tanks |
>
>
>In the military we had BOLDFACE. Procedures which were committed to
>memory. Spin recovery was one of them.
>
>I would like to see a discussion of pro-spin inputs to get out.
I do spins in my RV6 almost every flight. I have placarded pro-spin
inputs to get out. I read them before every flight. Since each RV is
different I will not reiterate them for the RV6. They should be in your
builders manual. Yes I also have them memorized, but should for some
unexplainable reason I loose my memory during flight then, I can read all
about it.
As for the RV6 the pro-spin inputs in the builders manual work for upright
spins. I have not tried flat or inverted spins, or spins beyond two
revolutions.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices |
I received a "spring flyer" for some of Aircraft Tool Supply's offerings.
One item that caught my eye was Champion Oil Filters...pretty standard units ...
Aircraft Spruce lits them for $16.25 in my 2005 catalog, but ATS is offering
them for the
"Retail Price" of $33.90, but offering 20% reduction, so you can get all you need
for only $27.46 each.
Wow! what a deal !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices |
> "Retail Price" of $33.90, but offering 20% reduction, so you can get all
> you need for only $27.46 each.
http://www.rvproject.com/pricewatch.html (send me updates if you got 'em)
FWIW, I switched from Champion CH48110-1 to Kelly Aerospace ES48110 oil
filters and have been using them exclusively for a few hundred hours now --
and I plan to keep using them. $12.65/ea from Spruce. Saving a few bucks.
I did a photographic comparison of the Champion vs. Kelly oil filter
element. There are physical differences, particularly fewer pleats on the
Kelly. But nothing (imho) that's significant. I'm a cheapskate wherever I
don't feel there is a safety risk.
Photos toward the bottom of this page:
http://www.rvproject.com/20050613.html
Spruce used to sell another even cheaper oil filter, maybe Challenger? I
forget the name. It was like another 2 bucks cheaper than the Kelly. I
figured...baby steps.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (843 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Primer with injection system |
Is it really necessary?
How have some of you done it?
I'm thinking that there are two major possibilities:
Tee from the fuel selector valve to the boost pump (non pressurized side) to a
Cessna type pump-knob to three of the four cylinders (fourth for MP?).
Solenoid from pressurized side to single line with three outlets for three of the
four cylinders (fourth for MP?).
Pictures, descriptions, parts lists would be appreciated.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chaztuna(at)adelphia.net |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices |
Cc: Dan Checkoway
Dan,
You might want to reconsider that move. In 2004, Aviation Consumer did a comparison
of the Champion and Kelly oil filters (Volume XXXIV Number 9). The Kelly
has 20% less filtering area. Bottom line was they recommend spending the extra
money for the Champion. I can email you a scan of the article if you like.
Charlie Kuss
>
> > "Retail Price" of $33.90, but offering 20% reduction, so you can get all
> > you need for only $27.46 each.
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/pricewatch.html (send me updates if you got 'em)
>
> FWIW, I switched from Champion CH48110-1 to Kelly Aerospace ES48110 oil
> filters and have been using them exclusively for a few hundred hours now --
> and I plan to keep using them. $12.65/ea from Spruce. Saving a few bucks.
> I did a photographic comparison of the Champion vs. Kelly oil filter
> element. There are physical differences, particularly fewer pleats on the
> Kelly. But nothing (imho) that's significant. I'm a cheapskate wherever I
> don't feel there is a safety risk.
>
> Photos toward the bottom of this page:
> http://www.rvproject.com/20050613.html
>
> Spruce used to sell another even cheaper oil filter, maybe Challenger? I
> forget the name. It was like another 2 bucks cheaper than the Kelly. I
> figured...baby steps.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (843 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Primer with injection system |
On 30 Mar 2006, at 18:48, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>
> Is it really necessary?
>
> How have some of you done it?
>
> I'm thinking that there are two major possibilities:
>
> Tee from the fuel selector valve to the boost pump (non pressurized
> side) to a Cessna type pump-knob to three of the four cylinders
> (fourth for MP?).
>
> Solenoid from pressurized side to single line with three outlets
> for three of the four cylinders (fourth for MP?).
>
> Pictures, descriptions, parts lists would be appreciated.
>
> Ralph Capen
There is no need for a fuel primer if you have fuel injection. The
electric boost pump will pressurize the system. Then you put the
mixture to rich for a short period, which causes fuel to come out of
each injector nozzle, priming the engine. You put the mixture back
to lean when you have primed enough.
Forget about the primer.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Tip tanks and wing root stresses |
On 16:06:53 2006-03-30 Ron Lee wrote:
> If having weight at the end of the wing is so great and beneficial
> then why didn't Van's design it that way?
It's only great for a cross-country cruiser. For a light, sporty aircraft
like an RV, the extra weight out there robs you of roll rate and increases
your moment of inertia in spins. It's also more complex to build, and more
plumbing to install. I guess Van wanted to keep it simple.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Primer with injection system |
Imho, primer is a liability on an injected engine, rather than any sort of
benefit. The nice thing about injected engines, at least the Lycomings I'm
familiar with, is that you can prime the engine with the injection system.
You already have a direct means of feeding fuel to the cylinders. There is
no need (imho) for a dedicated priming system on an injected Lycoming. Just
more stuff to buy & more stuff to break.
It never gets old, how quickly my engine (IO-360-A1B6 + Slick IC + Plasma
II) fires up when cold. Cold starting an injected engine, particularly with
electronic ignition, don't blink, you might miss it! ;-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 3:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Primer with injection system
>
>
> Is it really necessary?
>
> How have some of you done it?
>
> I'm thinking that there are two major possibilities:
>
> Tee from the fuel selector valve to the boost pump (non pressurized side)
> to a Cessna type pump-knob to three of the four cylinders (fourth for
> MP?).
>
> Solenoid from pressurized side to single line with three outlets for three
> of the four cylinders (fourth for MP?).
>
> Pictures, descriptions, parts lists would be appreciated.
>
> Ralph Capen
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Primer with injection system |
Turn the boost pump on.....There is your prime.
Is it really necessary?
How have some of you done it?
I'm thinking that there are two major possibilities:
Tee from the fuel selector valve to the boost pump (non pressurized side) to a
Cessna type pump-knob to three of the four cylinders (fourth for MP?).
Solenoid from pressurized side to single line with three outlets for three of the
four cylinders (fourth for MP?).
Pictures, descriptions, parts lists would be appreciated.
Ralph Capen
Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
cell 858-395-5094
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine compartment wiring |
You may have seen this, but you can downloand a pdf of it off the web . . .
probably easier to deal with.
www.faa.gov/other_visit/aviation_industry/designees_delegations/training/der_present/la_may/media/Electrical%20Wiring.pdf
Good Luck,
Bob
On 3/30/06, wgill10(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
>
> Hello Bob,
>
> Please email a copy my way. Thanks.
>
> Bill
> Lee's Summit, MO
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
>
> >
> > Ralph,
> >
> > I have a power-point that I down loaded from the FAA? It's overkill but
> > very informative.
> >
> > I send you a copy . . . If anyone else would like a copy send me an
> email
> > off line.
> >
> > Good Luck,
> > Bob C - in SE Iowa
> >
> > flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com
> >
> >
> > On 3/30/06, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Fellow listers,
> > >
> > > I need to steal some more ideas for wiring in and around the engine. I
> am
> > > concerned about routing the wiring and keeping it from flopping
> around. I'm
> > > thinking a bunch of Adel clamps - but where/how attached/etc,
> > >
> > > I have starter, alternators (both field and bus), CHTs, EGTs,
> oilpress,
> > > oiltemp, fuelpress, sparkplugs, and more....
> > >
> > > Pointers to web sites or pictures (off-list) of what you did, how you
> like
> > > it, how well it works for maintenance would be greatly appreciated.
> > >
> > > Ralph Capen
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> Hello Bob,
>
> Please email a copy my way. Thanks.
>
> Bill
> Lee's Summit, MO
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "Bob C. " flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. "
>
> Ralph,
>
> I have a power-point that I down loaded from the FAA? It's overkill but
> very informative.
>
> I send you a copy . . . If anyone else would like a copy send me an email
> off line.
>
> Good Luck,
> Bob C - in SE Iowa
>
> flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com
>
>
> On 3/30/06, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I need to steal some more ideas for wiring in and around the engine. I am
> concerned about routing the wiri
> ng and keeping it from flopping around. I'm
> thinking a bunch of Adel clamps - but where/how attached/etc,
>
> I have starter, alternators (both field and bus), CHTs, EGTs, oilpress,
> oiltemp, fuelpress, sparkplugs, and more....
>
> Pointers to web sites or pictures (off-list) of what you did, how you like
> it, how well it works for maintenance would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Ralph Capen
>
>
> s page,
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine compartment wiring |
You may have seen this, but you can downloand a pdf of it off the web . . .
probably easier to deal with.
www.faa.gov/other_visit/aviation_industry/designees_delegations/training/der_present/la_may/media/Electrical%20Wiring.pdf
Good Luck,
Bob
On 3/30/06, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I need to steal some more ideas for wiring in and around the engine. I am
> concerned about routing the wiring and keeping it from flopping around. I'm
> thinking a bunch of Adel clamps - but where/how attached/etc,
>
> I have starter, alternators (both field and bus), CHTs, EGTs, oilpress,
> oiltemp, fuelpress, sparkplugs, and more....
>
> Pointers to web sites or pictures (off-list) of what you did, how you like
> it, how well it works for maintenance would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vinnfizz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Congratulations to Dan Checkoway |
I would like to congratulate Dan on becoming an Instructor for SportAir
Workshops in Corona, California (see link below). Having had the honor to be
invited for a flight with him in his RV-7 back in December, I can't begin to say
what an enjoyable experience it was to finally meet this guy in person after I
read along on his progress in building his RV-7 all documented in his
RVproject.com site for the last few years.
_http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/060330_sportair.html_
(http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/060330_sportair.html)
Ed Flow
RV-8 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices |
Guys,
I use Napa Gold 1068 filters, or Wix 51068. $5.96 at the local Napa. No
safety nut but who cares, if you torque it down it isn't going to come off
in flight. A few RV's in my area fly with these filters with no problems.
I can't remember exactly what the burst pressure on these filters is but its
somewhere in the 400 psi neighborhood. My oil analyses have come back good
with less than average metal content for an O-360. A big advantage of this
filter is that it has an anti-drainback valve, which keeps oil in the filter
when the engine is shut down so that the top end quickly gets oil during
start-up. When I cut these filters for inspection, I have measured 1/2 qt.
of oil out of them even after standing it up on its end. Why pay $18 for a
filter design that is 40 years old.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices |
Skygeek price:
<http://www.skygeek.com/ch48110-1.html> ChampionR CH48110-1 Oil Filter
<http://www.skygeek.com/ch48110-1.html> ChampionR CH48110-1 Oil Filter
$17.10
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices
> "Retail Price" of $33.90, but offering 20% reduction, so you can get
all
> you need for only $27.46 each.
http://www.rvproject.com/pricewatch.html (send me updates if you got
'em)
FWIW, I switched from Champion CH48110-1 to Kelly Aerospace ES48110 oil
filters and have been using them exclusively for a few hundred hours now
--
and I plan to keep using them. $12.65/ea from Spruce. Saving a few
bucks.
I did a photographic comparison of the Champion vs. Kelly oil filter
element. There are physical differences, particularly fewer pleats on
the
Kelly. But nothing (imho) that's significant. I'm a cheapskate
wherever I
don't feel there is a safety risk.
Photos toward the bottom of this page:
http://www.rvproject.com/20050613.html
Spruce used to sell another even cheaper oil filter, maybe Challenger?
I
forget the name. It was like another 2 bucks cheaper than the Kelly. I
figured...baby steps.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (843 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk> |
At long last the weather here in the UK gave us a chance last week to go fly
and have some fun and finally take some pictures of my new RV8 in the air.
Many thanks to Neil and Rob for all their help, to John Stahr for coming all
the way from Oregon, USA to England to paint my RV and all those on the list
that have helped along the way.
Pictures of my new gal are at :
http://futurshox.net/aerothumbviewer.php?itaken=148&start=9
Best Rgds, Nic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Throttle quadrant knobs |
Anybody know where to buy the round knobs for a throttle quadrant....any
color will do right about now.
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: XSEA airborne |
Great looking 8 Nic. Congradulations, and thanks for sharing that very nice
photo website.
Dick, RV6A 400+hrs
At 08:56 AM 3/31/2006, you wrote:
>
>At long last the weather here in the UK gave us a chance last week to go fly
>and have some fun and finally take some pictures of my new RV8 in the air.
>
>Many thanks to Neil and Rob for all their help, to John Stahr for coming all
>the way from Oregon, USA to England to paint my RV and all those on the list
>that have helped along the way.
>
>Pictures of my new gal are at :
>
>http://futurshox.net/aerothumbviewer.php?itaken=148&start=9
>
>Best Rgds, Nic
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jamie Painter <jamie(at)jpainter.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle quadrant knobs |
RGray67968(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Anybody know where to buy the round knobs for a throttle quadrant....any
>color will do right about now.
>
>Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
Rick:
Try US plastics. They have some ball knobs, multiple sizes and they
have brass inserts for attaching. They're only sold in black.
Try here: (your e-mail client will probably break up the link)
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=105&product%5Fid=8684
Jamie
RV-7A Canopy
http://rv.jpainter.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Wires out in the wing tips |
Well, I'm almost ready (after far too many years) to rivet wing
skins. I'm having a problem deciding about something. I haven't
done anything about making a path for any wires that I may need out
in the wing tips.
I have a landing light near each wing tip (the duckworks system), so
I know I'll need to run something for that. And of course, there will
be position and strobe lights out in the tips.
For these lights, can I just install a grommet in each rib? When I'm
ready to wire everything, I'd then run the wires through the
grommets, all bundled together?
I have no idea what size wires I'm going to need for these. Heck, I
don't even know if it's standard to run ground wires back to the
battery or if I'm supposed to ground to the airframe. One big
aluminum wire :-)
Should I anticipate any sort of wing tip antennas? I've heard from
some guys who have had wing tip antennas that they don't work very
well. Someone who talked at the MN Wing meeting a few weeks ago
about his fast airplane said he'd installed wing tip antennas and got
lousy reception, so he switched to belly-mounted, tapered antennas.
Is this all something that can wait until much later in the process?
I understand I only should rivet one set of skins (tops or bottoms)
at this time, doing the other sets much further in the process.
Would I be cursing myself if I waited on these wiring issues until then?
I know some guys have installed electrical conduit for their wires.
This seems like unnecessary weight, but maybe it's a better idea than
grommets.
As you can see, I really don't know what the best plan is for this.
Comments from those who have gone before are appreciated -- even if
you just want to say, "I did it this way, and I wouldn't do it that
way again."
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wires out in the wing tips |
Joe,
I just used snap bushings in each rib, no conduit. When you run the wires
use cable ties about every 4 to 6 inches in the rib bays between the ribs.
Use mil spec aircraft type wire. Van's wiring kit has tables for the wire
sizes for different amps and run lengths. Also, go to
http://www.aeroelectric.com for lots of ideas.
The only thing I would do differently would be to make larger holes for
larger snap bushings to begin with. I had to make up drill extensions out of
1/4
rod to adapt to a Unibit to enlarge some holes after the wings were on the
plane. Remember, you may want to put an autopilot servo in the wing. Mine is
in the bellcrank bay, but some swear by the wingtip location. I wouldn't
change my decision here! One trouble spot is where the wire transitions from
wing to fuselage. Before you put the wings on it would make things easier if
you plan a straight path here.
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A flying 146 hours
In a message dated 3/31/2006 9:31:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jpl(at)showpage.org writes:
I have a landing light near each wing tip (the duckworks system), so
I know I'll need to run something for that. And of course, there will
be position and strobe lights out in the tips.
For these lights, can I just install a grommet in each rib? When I'm
ready to wire everything, I'd then run the wires through the
grommets, all bundled together?
I have no idea what size wires I'm going to need for these. Heck, I
don't even know if it's standard to run ground wires back to the
battery or if I'm supposed to ground to the airframe. One big
aluminum wire :-)
Should I anticipate any sort of wing tip antennas? I've heard from
some guys who have had wing tip antennas that they don't work very
well. Someone who talked at the MN Wing meeting a few weeks ago
about his fast airplane said he'd installed wing tip antennas and got
lousy reception, so he switched to belly-mounted, tapered antennas.
Is this all something that can wait until much later in the process?
I understand I only should rivet one set of skins (tops or bottoms)
at this time, doing the other sets much further in the process.
Would I be cursing myself if I waited on these wiring issues until then?
I know some guys have installed electrical conduit for their wires.
This seems like unnecessary weight, but maybe it's a better idea than
grommets.
As you can see, I really don't know what the best plan is for this.
Comments from those who have gone before are appreciated -- even if
you just want to say, "I did it this way, and I wouldn't do it that
way again."
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight EFIS Price |
As of today we have a June delivery date.
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
Already in Sunny Florida......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS question |
Shirley Harding wrote:
>
>
> Has any one used the new Garmin iQue 3600A? Looks like a great
> product - I'd be interested to hear from any one who's using it.
> Also, can any one tell me how it differs from the GPS MAP 296 model?
> The iQue appears to be the better unit, yet here in Oz it's being
> sold at a cheaper price than the 296.
I have not used either unit so can't provide comparisons between the
two. I do recall when the iQue was first introduced there was
considerable discussion (this was on the Anywhere Map forum) about
whether or not the unit produced a NMEA data stream. Seems at that time
nobody had figured out a way to access NMEA data from the iQue. If you
intend to use the iQue with anything that requires NMEA (autopilot, etc)
be sure you research this matter to determine whether or not it will
work in your situation.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wires out in the wing tips |
Joe,
I forgot to mention: it is not necessary to run a ground wire to the wings
for the lights. Just ground the lights to a screw through the wing rib, etc.
For the autopilot, I ran a separate ground (shield). This is how Cessnas
and all the certificated airplanes that I know of do it.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Wires out in the wing tips |
Dan,
Thanks for your comments. They're very helpful.
-Joe
On Mar 31, 2006, at 9:24 AM, Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Joe,
>
> I forgot to mention: it is not necessary to run a ground wire to
> the wings
> for the lights. Just ground the lights to a screw through the wing
> rib, etc.
> For the autopilot, I ran a separate ground (shield). This is how
> Cessnas
> and all the certificated airplanes that I know of do it.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (flying)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle quadrant knobs |
Van's sells them. I'd be interested in replacing the
ones I have. I bought a throttle quadrant from Van's
and the knobs are wood that are painted. The
craftsmanship is pretty poor.
Alluminum maybe?
Paul Besing
--- Jamie Painter wrote:
>
>
> RGray67968(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> >Anybody know where to buy the round knobs for a
> throttle quadrant....any
> >color will do right about now.
> >
> >Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
>
> Rick:
>
> Try US plastics. They have some ball knobs,
> multiple sizes and they
> have brass inserts for attaching. They're only sold
> in black.
>
> Try here: (your e-mail client will probably break up
> the link)
>
>
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=105&product%5Fid=8684
>
> Jamie
>
> RV-7A Canopy
> http://rv.jpainter.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Performance Data |
The other day someone posted a request for run-up rpm, tach at lift off and after
a few hundred feet in the air, etc, and I just got this data, but the address
posted to send it to turned out a 'bounced' address.
If the person asking for the data will give another address I will re-send what
I noted.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 |
Has anyone put (or seen) an RV-8 Deluxe quadrant (the
cool black one from Van's) installed in an RV-4? Any
idea if it will fit well in the same location?
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Bartholomee" <RBartholomeee(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | problem with clogging a filter |
I use a full flow filter by ADC. It filters 100% of the oil unless the
bypass is activated at around 7-8 lbs of back pressure. A light comes on in
the cockpit to let you know the filter is dirty. I have never had this
happen in 50 hours of use except when breaking in my rebuilt engine with new
cylinders.
Roger @ MD43 1965 Cessna 150-E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices
Dan
It's your engine and airplane. I could understand saving on the
Kelly filter, if you were changing the oil and filter every 25 hours.
Changing the filter that often, I doubt that a 20% reduction in
filter area would make any difference. The problem with clogging a
filter, is that the bypass valve in the filter then opens. Once that
happens, the filter is effectively gone. The oil moves through the
system unfiltered.
< snip >
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
David,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rvlist"
>Subject: RV-List: N4032Q
>Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 08:04:23 -0500
>
>
>I completed the first flight in N4032Q, an RV8A, yesterday at HEF, Manassas
>Regional Airport. Dave Reel - RV8A - 1.2 hours
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | G McNutt <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices |
Hi Charlie
Educate me, - is filter clogging on a good engine something to actully
consider? I change filters at 50 hours and cut them open for inspection
and have observed that a good engine could probably go 10 or 20 times
longer before there would be any significant amount of contaminate
material to restrict flow through the oil filter pleats (high time 0-470
would block maybe 3% of pleats with carbon). I am also assuming that
when filter pleats are slowly clogging with microscopic size material
the filtering capability would actually increase up to the point where
the bypass valve opens. If the bypass is spring loaded it will crack
open as a function of pressure and only some oil will bypass while much
of it would still pass through the filter pleats up to the point where
they become fully clogged. What am I missing here??
George in Langley BC
--------------------------
Charlie Kuss wrote:
> It's your engine and airplane. I could understand saving on the
>Kelly filter, if you were changing the oil and filter every 25 hours.
>Changing the filter that often, I doubt that a 20% reduction in
>filter area would make any difference. The problem with clogging a
>filter, is that the bypass valve in the filter then opens. Once that
>happens, the filter is effectively gone. The oil moves through the
>system unfiltered.
> I see the same thing with auto manufacturers who specify full
>synthetic motor oil and 10,000 mile oil changes. The oil can go that
>distance. Often, however, the filter will clog much sooner. The
>benefit of using a superior oil is lost, if it's not being filtered
>the last 3-5 thousand miles of each oil change interval. I recommend
>that folks who use synthetic oil/long drain periods, change out the
>oil filter mid way through the extended drain period.
> 50 hours means 50 X 160 mph = 8000 miles. That's a long way to go
>without changing the oil filter.
>Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 |
> Has anyone put (or seen) an RV-8 Deluxe quadrant (the
> cool black one from Van's) installed in an RV-4? Any
> idea if it will fit well in the same location?
>
> Paul Besing
Should fit fine just like it did in my RV-3...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Cockpit/DSC_0609.jpg
Note that you will need to rivet some angle to the fuselage side so if your
bird is painted you'll need to deal with that.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Kitplanes, May, Peternel RV-9A |
For those of you who are not subscribed to Kitplanes, there is a very nice
article on Stan Peternel's flying RV-9A in the May issue.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Wires out in the wing tips |
I used grommets in each wing rib and wished several times during finishing that
I had used a plastic conduit or some of the flexible conduit that Van's sells.
It would have been much easier to add wires that I forgot about in the initial
installation.
If you do use grommets, be sure to run a continuous loop of strong cord through
them for use in pulling wires through. Keep it there until you are absolutely
certain that you won't need any more wires.
I used a single point ground at the firewall for everything else but I did ground
the lights and strobe power packs to the airframe at the wing tips. I have
had no ground loop issues to deal with so I'd do it that way again.
I have a VOR antenna (Bob Archer's in the right wing tip and it works fine. for
com I'm convinced an external antenna is best for RV's but that's just me.
Mine is belly mounted.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 195 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org>
>
> Well, I'm almost ready (after far too many years) to rivet wing
> skins. I'm having a problem deciding about something. I haven't
> done anything about making a path for any wires that I may need out
> in the wing tips.
>
> I have a landing light near each wing tip (the duckworks system), so
> I know I'll need to run something for that. And of course, there will
> be position and strobe lights out in the tips.
>
> For these lights, can I just install a grommet in each rib? When I'm
> ready to wire everything, I'd then run the wires through the
> grommets, all bundled together?
>
> I have no idea what size wires I'm going to need for these. Heck, I
> don't even know if it's standard to run ground wires back to the
> battery or if I'm supposed to ground to the airframe. One big
> aluminum wire :-)
>
> Should I anticipate any sort of wing tip antennas? I've heard from
> some guys who have had wing tip antennas that they don't work very
> well. Someone who talked at the MN Wing meeting a few weeks ago
> about his fast airplane said he'd installed wing tip antennas and got
> lousy reception, so he switched to belly-mounted, tapered antennas.
>
> Is this all something that can wait until much later in the process?
> I understand I only should rivet one set of skins (tops or bottoms)
> at this time, doing the other sets much further in the process.
> Would I be cursing myself if I waited on these wiring issues until then?
>
> I know some guys have installed electrical conduit for their wires.
> This seems like unnecessary weight, but maybe it's a better idea than
> grommets.
>
> As you can see, I really don't know what the best plan is for this.
> Comments from those who have gone before are appreciated -- even if
> you just want to say, "I did it this way, and I wouldn't do it that
> way again."
>
> -Joe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Wires out in the wing tips |
I used the flex conduit that Van's sells, works fine. I made the holes a
little larger than speced to ease installation and then used RTV to glue the
conduit in so vibration would not cut it. If you use conduit, make sure
that you put it in a place where it does not get in the way of bucking the
last skin. This skin is hard enough to install without any additional
issues. I also ran return wires for everything. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joseph Larson
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 6:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wires out in the wing tips
Well, I'm almost ready (after far too many years) to rivet wing
skins. I'm having a problem deciding about something. I haven't
done anything about making a path for any wires that I may need out
in the wing tips.
I have a landing light near each wing tip (the duckworks system), so
I know I'll need to run something for that. And of course, there will
be position and strobe lights out in the tips.
For these lights, can I just install a grommet in each rib? When I'm
ready to wire everything, I'd then run the wires through the
grommets, all bundled together?
I have no idea what size wires I'm going to need for these. Heck, I
don't even know if it's standard to run ground wires back to the
battery or if I'm supposed to ground to the airframe. One big
aluminum wire :-)
Should I anticipate any sort of wing tip antennas? I've heard from
some guys who have had wing tip antennas that they don't work very
well. Someone who talked at the MN Wing meeting a few weeks ago
about his fast airplane said he'd installed wing tip antennas and got
lousy reception, so he switched to belly-mounted, tapered antennas.
Is this all something that can wait until much later in the process?
I understand I only should rivet one set of skins (tops or bottoms)
at this time, doing the other sets much further in the process.
Would I be cursing myself if I waited on these wiring issues until then?
I know some guys have installed electrical conduit for their wires.
This seems like unnecessary weight, but maybe it's a better idea than
grommets.
As you can see, I really don't know what the best plan is for this.
Comments from those who have gone before are appreciated -- even if
you just want to say, "I did it this way, and I wouldn't do it that
way again."
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV-10 IO-540 Motor Mounts |
I traded for a small hole set of IO-540 Motor Mounts from a Rocket builder who
didn't need them. He needed the big hole set.
If anybody needs a set of small hole IO-540 Motor Mounts, make me an offer.
Russ Daves
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 51 Msgs - 03/30/06 |
Hi Kevin-
>I don't see wing bending loads as a major issue, considering how
>people will fly the aircraft when there is fuel in the tip tanks. If
>the wing is designed to take 6gs without tip tanks, surely it can
>easily handle a typical cruise flight load spectrum with fuel in the
>tips. What am I missing?
>
>
I concur with all you have written. However, aside from the instantaneous loading
the wing experiences, there is also the issue of fatigue. Reducing the bending
moments that the center section experiences will increase it's fatigue life.
In all likelihood, and given the way most aspects of RV's are overbuilt, this is
a moot point. Then again we won't know for sure until it's to late. I seem
to recall spar issues cropping up with older -3's that resulted in a mod. Likewise
Be-18's, T-34's, T-6's. Yes, those are all old military aircraft that have
been ridden hard and put away wet. Then again, that's just what they were
designed for. Given that I plan on operating my aircraft for a looong time,
and that to my knowledge RV wings weren't designed for tip tanks, I think considering
the long term effects of operating with tip fuel is in order. As such,
and all other things being equal, using the inboards first can't hurt and might
help.
Regardz-
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
Weekend so probably not the best time to ask, but who is going to sun and fun?
Chas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices |
George,
If you are finding very little material in your filter, than by all
means use it up to 50 hours. One thing to bear in mind though. When
you loosen the filter, almost all the oil and most of the foreign
debris drain out of the filter, so your inspection may or may not be
accurate, regarding how much material was actually in the filter. I
suspect that aircraft oil filters do not have the ability to filter
down to 25 microns like automotive filters do. With the larger
clearances on our engines, super fine filtration is not as critical.
If the filter doesn't have to stop these smaller particles, it will
obviously take longer to clog.
Clogging is a relative term. The back pressure of the oil
(especially if you use straight weight oil and the oil is cold, such
as on initial start up) will open the bypass valve at much less than
fully clogged. At what percentage point this would occur, I don't
know. Is Doug Rosendahl still on this list? Doug is a petroleum
engineer and could answer these questions better.
If the bypass valve opens, a great deal of the oil will pass
through unfiltered. Path of least resistance, ya know.
Charlie
>
>
>Hi Charlie
>
>Educate me, - is filter clogging on a good engine something to actully
>consider? I change filters at 50 hours and cut them open for inspection
>and have observed that a good engine could probably go 10 or 20 times
>longer before there would be any significant amount of contaminate
>material to restrict flow through the oil filter pleats (high time 0-470
>would block maybe 3% of pleats with carbon). I am also assuming that
>when filter pleats are slowly clogging with microscopic size material
>the filtering capability would actually increase up to the point where
>the bypass valve opens. If the bypass is spring loaded it will crack
>open as a function of pressure and only some oil will bypass while much
>of it would still pass through the filter pleats up to the point where
>they become fully clogged. What am I missing here??
>
>George in Langley BC
>--------------------------
>
>Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> > It's your engine and airplane. I could understand saving on the
> >Kelly filter, if you were changing the oil and filter every 25 hours.
> >Changing the filter that often, I doubt that a 20% reduction in
> >filter area would make any difference. The problem with clogging a
> >filter, is that the bypass valve in the filter then opens. Once that
> >happens, the filter is effectively gone. The oil moves through the
> >system unfiltered.
> > I see the same thing with auto manufacturers who specify full
> >synthetic motor oil and 10,000 mile oil changes. The oil can go that
> >distance. Often, however, the filter will clog much sooner. The
> >benefit of using a superior oil is lost, if it's not being filtered
> >the last 3-5 thousand miles of each oil change interval. I recommend
> >that folks who use synthetic oil/long drain periods, change out the
> >oil filter mid way through the extended drain period.
> > 50 hours means 50 X 160 mph = 8000 miles. That's a long way to go
> >without changing the oil filter.
> >Charlie
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-12 question |
ELSA isn't going to go away but the sub-qualifications under ELA that covers
existing aircraft may change. We will just have to wait and see how it goes
and how to manage/manipulate it.
Mike Robertson
>From: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-12 question
>Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 10:39:40 -0800
>
>
>mrobert569(at)hotmail.com wrote:
> > Through January 2008 there is latitude because we can get it in under
>the
> > "existing aircraft" category. But all these existing aircraft are
>supposed
> > to be certificated prior to January 2008. After that there is a serious
> > question. I think there will be some way to handle it but in what form
>I do
> > not know at this time.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> >
> >
>
>Are you saying that after 2008 there will be no E-LSA?
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25349#25349
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle quadrant knobs |
In a message dated 3/31/2006 5:14:23 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
RGray67968(at)aol.com writes:
Anybody know where to buy the round knobs for a throttle quadrant....any
color will do right about now.
===================
I would guess that Carr-Lane, McMaster-Carr or MSC would carry these.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 777hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Communication Loss |
On my second test flight yesterday, The control tower's transmission during my
initial climb was so weak I could just barely tell someone had transmitted. I
was climbing with the tower at my back and at a pretty steep angle due to other
problems. Except during this climb phase, I heard the tower loud and clear.
I'm theorizing that my comm antenna, which is mounted beneath the left wing/fuselage
joint so that about a half foot of the bent antenna protrudes behind
the left flap on my RV8A, was blocked by the wing/fuselage from receiving the
tower's signal. So, I have two questions.
First, have others had this sort of problem? If so, what was the remedy?
Second, how do you feel about limiting the pitch and roll angles during departure/arrival
to mitigate such a problem?
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Chas,
I'm flying in on Sunday and plan to be there throughout the week. I'm doing
a forum on "Panel and Cockpit Design" on Tue/Wed/Thur @ 9 am.
I also plan to be at the Wed "RV-List" get together at Aces Cafe at 5 pm
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: S & N Fun
>Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 21:35:21 -0600
>
>
>Weekend so probably not the best time to ask, but who is going to sun and
>fun? Chas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin hand held GPS |
FWIW
The fix for a problem others may encounter.........
Today, when I attempted to remove the remote antenna from my Garmin 295, so that
I could update the data base, the BNC connector rotating slide would not turn
to release the antenna. It appeared to be jammed somehow. The antenna connector
sits in a recess on the back of the GPS body but I could see that the rotating
slide was tight up against the case mounted portion. It did not allow the
rotating slide to be pushed inward to rotate and disengage. The whole connector
assemble also seemed to be too loose in the GPS body which added to the frustration
but was the clue to the solution.The problem turned out to be the ring
nut that holds the mounted portion of the BNC connector in the GPS body. The
ring nut had backed off and was now tight up against the rotating slider and
not allowing it to slide inward.
The fix.......The ring nut has two slots, 180 degrees apart, on its outer edge
. I was able to get a very small screwdriver into the slots and turn the ring
nut tight against the case body thus allowing the slider sleeve to be pushed in
and rotated.
Dale Ensing
RV6A N118DE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn(at)gmail.com> |
I am about to pick up my JJ tip tanks from Vans but have the wings finished & plumbed
for them. I have copied the installation of a RV6 owner in Australia who
has successfully used this system. The only vent in the system is in the tip
tank. The dihedral of the wing along with the 1 -2 psi from the forward facing
vent pressurise the tip which forces fuel from the tips into the outboard leading
edge tank, this in turn feeds the inboard leading edge tanks. Andair check
valves prevent any back flow & most of the time you are flying with the aux
tanks empty. As soon as there is space in the mains fuel is drawn into them using
a combination of negative pressure from the fuel pump, dihedral & + pressure
from the fuel vent. Simple, effective, no pumps to go wrong & completely automatic.
Thats what I am hoping anyway. My only concern is that a blocked vent
will cut of fuel, but that will happen in the standard system. One thing I am
considering is whether to run an aux vent feed to the tips from the HP side
of the plenum or the warm side of the cowling as any ice build up on the vent
will spoil my day. I have written up the install of the ob leading edge tanks
if anyone wants it. Oh by the way Ken Scott saw what I was doing a few months
back & thought the idea of o/b l/e tanks are a bad idea.
hth Stephen
N570Z
Fuse almost finished
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25772#25772
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)mcleodusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Communication Loss |
Dave, My antenna is mounted just off center below the pilot seat, and I have
had no trouble in turns or climb out or even on the ground behind hangers. I
would suspect it is some other problem? My antenna is a bent whip. Mark Rose
N137MR 44Hrs. RV8A Hope this will help.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 3:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Communication Loss
>
> On my second test flight yesterday, The control tower's transmission
> during my initial climb was so weak I could just barely tell someone had
> transmitted. I was climbing with the tower at my back and at a pretty
> steep angle due to other problems. Except during this climb phase, I
> heard the tower loud and clear. I'm theorizing that my comm antenna,
> which is mounted beneath the left wing/fuselage joint so that about a half
> foot of the bent antenna protrudes behind the left flap on my RV8A, was
> blocked by the wing/fuselage from receiving the tower's signal. So, I
> have two questions.
>
> First, have others had this sort of problem? If so, what was the remedy?
>
> Second, how do you feel about limiting the pitch and roll angles during
> departure/arrival to mitigate such a problem?
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper) |
Cc: jpl(at)showpage.org
| Subject: | Re: Wires out in the wingtips |
I ran some white frosted tubing from Orchard Supply Hardware Store that
is intended for refrigerator water supply or some such. It is 5/8"
diameter and fairly rigid but can be easily bent. I used snap grommets,
but had to ream them out to make the hose slip through easily. I think
the snap grommets are 3/4 with an "alleged" 5/8 inner diameter.
I followed someone's post that it is better to run the wiring conduit
closer to the upper skin to make riveting on the lower skin later on
easier. After the upper skin is riveted, the hose can be threaded
through the wing ribs. It will be out of the way of the later more
limited access lower skin riveting. The plastic/vinyl or poly-whatever
substance tubing is sturdy enough that it will not sag down in hot
weather and interfere with the aileron controls.
I like the semi-flexible tubing better than the rigid pvc sprinkler pipe
some have used. A string with a rag tied to it will shoot right through
the tubing with a vacuum cleaner held to the other end for fishing wires
later on. I left a string in each conduit tube with a metal washer tied
to each end when I stored my wings away.
Pete Cowper
RV8 #81139
Visalia, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Wanted - oil dip stick. |
I am searching for an oil dip stick, Lycoming calls this a "Gage assy., oil
level" in my parts book. I've been advised there are two styles of these,
one with a small diameter screw in top and one that is a larger diameter. I
am in need of the style with the smaller diameter top. I would think that
engine re-builders might have one laying around from a parted out engine
that I may be serviceable Anyone know of a possible source for a used one of
these?
Marty RV-6A completing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Communication Loss |
Dave,
The same thing happened to me on about my second flight too. Turned out
to be the coax came loose at the antenna. I hadn't twisted it enough to
"lock". It has worked flawlessly since.
Tom Barnes -6 200+ hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 5:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Communication Loss
>
> On my second test flight yesterday, The control tower's transmission
during my initial climb was so weak I could just barely tell someone had
transmitted. I was climbing with the tower at my back and at a pretty steep
angle due to other problems. Except during this climb phase, I heard the
tower loud and clear. I'm theorizing that my comm antenna, which is mounted
beneath the left wing/fuselage joint so that about a half foot of the bent
antenna protrudes behind the left flap on my RV8A, was blocked by the
wing/fuselage from receiving the tower's signal. So, I have two questions.
>
> First, have others had this sort of problem? If so, what was the remedy?
>
> Second, how do you feel about limiting the pitch and roll angles during
departure/arrival to mitigate such a problem?
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Email List Wiki! |
Dear Listers,
I have added a new feature to the Email List Forums at Matronics called a Wiki. What's "Wiki" you ask? A Wiki is a website. You go to it and browse just like you would any other web site. The difference is, you can change it. You can put anything you want on this web site without having to be a web designer or even being the owner. You can write a new page just like writing an email message on the BBS. You don't need to send it off to anyone to install on the site. It is kind of like a Blog (weblog) in which anyone can post. Here is a great page on where the term Wiki came from and what it means in the context of a website: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki
So on to the new Matronics Email List Wiki... I've created this site for anyone
from any of the Email Lists to use. I envision that there are a great many
things that can be added to this new Wiki since there are always new and interesting
tidbits of useful information traversing the Lists.
Off the main Matronics Email List Wiki page, you will find a link called "Community
Portal". Here you will find more links to stubs for all the various Lists
found at Matronics (and a few other links). Brian Lloyd and others from the
Yak-List have already begun adding content in a number of areas. Bob Nuckolls
of AeroElectric fame has added a great article on "Ageing Aircraft".
I have discussed the new Matronics Email List Wiki with Tedd McHenry and Dwight Frye of the RV Wiki Site and they have decided to merge their site over onto the new Matronics Wiki server giving everyone a single source for information on RV building and flying! This migration will begin today and you should be able to find all of the content currently found at www.rvwiki.org moved over to the Matronics Wiki within a few days.
To make edits to the Matronics Wiki, you will need to have a login account on the
Matronics Wiki and I have disabled anonymous edits. This protects the Wiki
site from automated spam engines and other nuisances that could compromise the
data at the site.
Signing up for an account is fast and easy and begins by clicking on the "create
an account or log in" link in the upper right hand corner of any page. Note
that you do not have to have a login or be logged in to view any of the content.
The Matronics Email List Wiki is YOUR Wiki! It is only as useful as the content
found within. The concept of the Wiki is that the people the use it and update
it. If you've got an interesting procedure for doing something, MAKE A WIKI
PAGE ON IT! You can even upload pictures. Saw something interesting at a
flyin? MAKE A WIKI PAGE ON IT! Don't be shy, this is YOUR site to share information
with others with similar interests.
Here is a users guide on using the Wiki implemented at Matronics: http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents This gives a lot of great information on how to get started editing pages.
And finally, here is the URL for the Matronics Email List Wiki:
http://wiki.matronics.com
Brian Lloyd has written an excellent introduction to Wikis on the front page.
I encourage you to read it over, then drill into the "Community Portal" and HAVE
FUN!!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted - oil dip stick. |
In a message dated 4/1/2006 1:38:54 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
emrath(at)comcast.net writes:
I would think that
engine re-builders might have one laying around from a parted out engine
that I may be serviceable Anyone know of a possible source for a used one of
these?
=========================================
Faeth Aircraft salvage would be a reasonable choice.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 777hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
I have a quick question, I have steel aeroquip hose fittings on my engine
oil in and out fittings and
wanted to know if the aluminum hose fittings will work ok with the steel
fittings.. and also steel on the
oil cooler 7 row vans type.. or will this cause problems ? they are both the
same brand and degree..
just one is half is steel and the hose fitting is aluminum.. any ideas ?
Danny..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Danny,
No known problem mixing al and steel oil fittings as long as your respect
torque limits... my humble opinion. You may be thinking of dissimilar metal
problems mating copper and aluminum in electrical circuits.
Jack, N-8VZ
>From: "Sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: aeroquip
>Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2006 17:18:35 -0600
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Barrow" <bobbarrow10(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Stephen, I would imagine that if you fully fill your inboard tank(s) and
you have no vent in them then the fuel will have nowhere to go when it
expands while the plane is sitting out in the sun. If it is stopped from
going back to the tips by an Andair one-way valve the expansion could quite
probably do serious damage to your inboard tank(s). The way to overcome this
would be to eliminate the one-way valve..but I do not recommend that either
as it might allow fuel to run back to the tips in flight. I think you might
need a vent in the inboard tank(s). I'd put it where the plans say....plenty
of warm air to keep it ice free in that location so it would probably be a
safer bet than one vent out on the tip.
>From: "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn(at)gmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Tip tanks
>Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2006 08:50:24 -0800
>
>
>I am about to pick up my JJ tip tanks from Vans but have the wings finished
>& plumbed for them. I have copied the installation of a RV6 owner in
>Australia who has successfully used this system. The only vent in the
>system is in the tip tank. The dihedral of the wing along with the 1 -2 psi
>from the forward facing vent pressurise the tip which forces fuel from the
>tips into the outboard leading edge tank, this in turn feeds the inboard
>leading edge tanks. Andair check valves prevent any back flow & most of the
>time you are flying with the aux tanks empty. As soon as there is space in
>the mains fuel is drawn into them using a combination of negative pressure
>from the fuel pump, dihedral & + pressure from the fuel vent. Simple,
>effective, no pumps to go wrong & completely automatic. Thats what I am
>hoping anyway. My only concern is that a blocked vent will cut of fuel, but
>that will happen in the standard system. One thing I am considering is
>whether to run an aux vent feed to !
> the tips from the HP side of the plenum or the warm side of the cowling
>as any ice build up on the vent will spoil my day. I have written up the
>install of the ob leading edge tanks if anyone wants it. Oh by the way Ken
>Scott saw what I was doing a few months back & thought the idea of o/b l/e
>tanks are a bad idea.
>
>hth Stephen
>N570Z
>Fuse almost finished
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25772#25772
>
>
New year, new job there's more than 100,00 jobs at SEEK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Barrow" <bobbarrow10(at)hotmail.com> |
I contacted Vans 18 months ago and they said then that they were no longer
selling the Jon Johanson tip tanks. They said they had decided to stop
selling them because they had not tested them. So I am very surprised that
you are getting them from Vans now. Perhaps you are buying them directly
from Jon but they are being trans-shipped via Vans. Would you please advise.
>From: "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn(at)gmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Tip tanks
>Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2006 08:50:24 -0800
>
>
>I am about to pick up my JJ tip tanks from Vans but have the wings finished
>& plumbed for them. I have copied the installation of a RV6 owner in
>Australia who has successfully used this system. The only vent in the
>system is in the tip tank. The dihedral of the wing along with the 1 -2 psi
>from the forward facing vent pressurise the tip which forces fuel from the
>tips into the outboard leading edge tank, this in turn feeds the inboard
>leading edge tanks. Andair check valves prevent any back flow & most of the
>time you are flying with the aux tanks empty. As soon as there is space in
>the mains fuel is drawn into them using a combination of negative pressure
>from the fuel pump, dihedral & + pressure from the fuel vent. Simple,
>effective, no pumps to go wrong & completely automatic. Thats what I am
>hoping anyway. My only concern is that a blocked vent will cut of fuel, but
>that will happen in the standard system. One thing I am considering is
>whether to run an aux vent feed to !
> the tips from the HP side of the plenum or the warm side of the cowling
>as any ice build up on the vent will spoil my day. I have written up the
>install of the ob leading edge tanks if anyone wants it. Oh by the way Ken
>Scott saw what I was doing a few months back & thought the idea of o/b l/e
>tanks are a bad idea.
>
>hth Stephen
>N570Z
>Fuse almost finished
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25772#25772
>
>
Want 1c text 24/7? Click here for details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wires out in the wingtips |
Pete Cowper wrote:
>
>I ran some white frosted tubing from Orchard Supply Hardware Store that
>is intended for refrigerator water supply or some such. It is 5/8"
>diameter and fairly rigid but can be easily bent. I used snap grommets,
>but had to ream them out to make the hose slip through easily. I think
>the snap grommets are 3/4 with an "alleged" 5/8 inner diameter.
>
>I followed someone's post that it is better to run the wiring conduit
>closer to the upper skin to make riveting on the lower skin later on
>easier. After the upper skin is riveted, the hose can be threaded
>through the wing ribs. It will be out of the way of the later more
>limited access lower skin riveting. The plastic/vinyl or poly-whatever
>substance tubing is sturdy enough that it will not sag down in hot
>weather and interfere with the aileron controls.
>
>I like the semi-flexible tubing better than the rigid pvc sprinkler pipe
>some have used. A string with a rag tied to it will shoot right through
>the tubing with a vacuum cleaner held to the other end for fishing wires
>later on. I left a string in each conduit tube with a metal washer tied
>to each end when I stored my wings away.
>
>Pete Cowper
>RV8 #81139
>Visalia, CA
>
The best (meaning lightest) & cheapest (~$1 each) idea I've seen was
posted by someone else recently. Use the plastic snap-on covers for
shower curtain rods. Wally World or other 3rd world aviation supply
outlet. They are a little over an inch in dia with a slit down the
entire length. With a 3/4" hole, you just squeeze 'em down slightly &
slide 'em in. Barely measurable loss in dia, also.
I ended up just using 3/4" snap bushings. I wanted a spare path for
future expansion. I weighed the bushings vs. the tubes & it was
something like 2 grams vs. 6 grams & I didn't want the extra weight. :-)
Another idea someone mentioned was the clear tubes used as safety covers
for fluorescent lights. Also good, but heavier (still much lighter than
any kind of regular tubing intended to carry liquids or pressure).
Again, very thin wall so not much loss of wire capacity.
Whatever you use, don't forget the string (twice as long as the wing).
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted - oil dip stick. |
I see them on Ebay all the time...
Darrell
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 4/1/2006 1:38:54 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
emrath(at)comcast.net writes:
I would think that
engine re-builders might have one laying around from a parted out engine
that I may be serviceable Anyone know of a possible source for a used one of
these?
=========================================
Faeth Aircraft salvage would be a reasonable choice.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 777hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices |
Well for me I change oil and filter every 25 hrs, very cheep insurance. I have
a 2200 hr 0-320 and its tighter than dicks hat band. Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Mine has worked ok so far. Same setup.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sportypilot [mailto:sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 6:19 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: aeroquip
>
>
> I have a quick question, I have steel aeroquip hose fittings
> on my engine oil in and out fittings and wanted to know if
> the aluminum hose fittings will work ok with the steel
> fittings.. and also steel on the oil cooler 7 row vans type..
> or will this cause problems ? they are both the same brand
> and degree..
> just one is half is steel and the hose fitting is aluminum..
> any ideas ?
>
>
>
> Danny..
>
>
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn(at)gmail.com> |
G'day Bob, the problem with having a vent in the mains is that it cancels out the
+ pressure from the tip vent. The alt vent I was thinking about would be plumbed
into the tip tank via a valve in the cockpit, haven't made up my mind yet
but will have to decide soon as am about to close up the wings. You are right
about Vans no longer stocking Jons tanks, I am picking them up from Vans but
that is only the shipping point, thought that would be easier & I am there so
often picking up parts I have screwed up.
As for the earlier comnent asking why KS thought the o/b l/e tanks were a bad idea,
he didn't really say, just muttered darkly & asked me why I didn't just fit
a ferry tank. I told him that I preferred to have the fuel out on the wing
& wanted the space in the cabin for life raft etc. Anyway he shook his head &
walked off. KK also had a look but said nothing, I can understand their position,
lawyer paranoia reigns supreme here, but I'm Australian I don't go in for
that BS, they aren't to know that though. you pays your money.....
Stephen
N570Z
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25924#25924
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mannan J. Thomason" <mannanj(at)alltel.net> |
Have you looked into the way it's done on a Bonanza, Piper Commanche or
similar single engine plane with tip tanks? Why re-invent the wheel when you
can "go to school" on certified products with years of imperical testing.
I'm sure that fuel selector valves, etc. are available.
"Shine" Mannan Thomason
RV-8 N1 61RL "Thursday's Child" Painfully close to flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 10:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Tip tanks
>
> G'day Bob, the problem with having a vent in the mains is that it cancels
> out the + pressure from the tip vent. The alt vent I was thinking about
> would be plumbed into the tip tank via a valve in the cockpit, haven't
> made up my mind yet but will have to decide soon as am about to close up
> the wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 4/1/2006 3:26:31 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com writes:
I have a quick question, I have steel aeroquip hose fittings on my engine
oil in and out fittings and
wanted to know if the aluminum hose fittings will work ok with the steel
fittings.. and also steel on the
oil cooler 7 row vans type.. or will this cause problems ? they are both the
same brand and degree..
just one is half is steel and the hose fitting is aluminum.. any ideas ?
==============================
I used stainless nipple fittings on the engine and aluminum fittings on the
AQP hoses. A light coating of Fuelube on just the sealing facets and threads
probably couldn't hurt (unless you reduce the friction so much that the
fitting vibrates loose) and it may eliminate the galling that can occur even when
using aluminum pipe threads into aluminum.
Once again, the theory is generally to avoid dissimilar metals combinations
that are farthest apart on the galvanic table and keep them dry. It is
possible that, with new fittings, the anodizing may have some galvanic blocking
effect, effectively breaking up the galvanic couple between any dissimilar
parent metals.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 777hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 |
Hi Paul,
I installed the RV-8 throttle quadrant in my -4 and it looks great and works
well with one exception; the knobs on the prop and mixture controls protrude
more than the standard -4 knobs and reduce stick travel slightly. My knee
contacts the knobs and the stick touches my knee... It is most noticeable
when doing aileron rolls to the left. I have on my "to do" list to modify
the lever arms to locate the knobs for these levers to be flush with the
throttle quadrant body.
Good luck
Dean Pichon
Bolton, MA
----Original Message Follows----
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 09:30:05 -0800 (PST)
Has anyone put (or seen) an RV-8 Deluxe quadrant (the
cool black one from Van's) installed in an RV-4? Any
idea if it will fit well in the same location?
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
If you don't mind me asking, what does Jon charge for his tip tank set up?
Darrell
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Clark" <bacstabber(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued them with
my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen or tighten.
On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound but only got a bending of
the handle at the head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches
in general or is this just how the CDI works?
My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they really? They
seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If they do need to be
replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these nuts.
Thank you for your help...
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
Hello Jack,
Replace the stripped hardware. If able, use a small cut-off wheel in a
dremel or die grinder.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack Clark
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365
I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued
them with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't
loosen or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound
but only got a bending of the handle at the head. First question...is
this normal for click torque wrenches in general or is this just how the
CDI works?
My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they
really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If
they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these
nuts.
Thank you for your help...
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
On 2 Apr 2006, at 10:25, Jack Clark wrote:
>
> I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over
> torqued them with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts
> that I can't loosen or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a
> loud "Click" sound but only got a bending of the handle at the
> head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches in
> general or is this just how the CDI works?
>
> My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do
> they really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off
> anyway. If they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how
> to remove these nuts.
Jack,
The bolts were also over torqued, and there is no way to know how
strong they are now. If the tie down fails during a wind storm, your
aircraft could be significantly damaged. Replace the bolts and nuts.
I have no experience on removing stripped nuts, so I can't offer any
good ideas there.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn(at)gmail.com> |
G'day Darrell, Jon charges $3200 which is bloody expensive, still as long as he
spends it on aeroplanes & doesn't waste it who am I to comment. Actually I have
now met Jon a few times & he has been real helpful over the years so I feel
if there is anyway I can assist him then am happy to do so.
"Shine" I have talked to owners of certified planes but do not know the specifics
of how the Mooney et all work, do you have any experience you can share?
ta Stephen
N570Z Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26120#26120
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
I don't know how much room you have to work with, but
you could try a nut cracker. Very inexpensive tool
that screws a wedge against the nut and brakes it on
one side.
Good luck,
Rick
--- Jack Clark wrote:
>
>
> I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down
> because I over torqued them with my new torque
> wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen
> or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud
> "Click" sound but only got a bending of the handle
> at the head. First question...is this normal for
> click torque wrenches in general or is this just how
> the CDI works?
>
> My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be
> replaced but do they really? They seem to be secure
> and don't want to come off anyway. If they do need
> to be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove
> these nuts.
>
> Thank you for your help...
>
> Jack
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
I'd replace the nuts and bolts. Your torque wrench did exactly what
mine does, and I expect that's normal. The click over of the head is
very subtle and you have to be paying attention or you'll miss it.
PJ
Jack Clark wrote:
>
> I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued them with
my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen or tighten.
On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound but only got a bending
of the handle at the head. First question...is this normal for click torque
wrenches in general or is this just how the CDI works?
>
> My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they really?
They seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If they do need to
be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these nuts.
>
> Thank you for your help...
>
> Jack
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation |
A brake rivet tool has been on my list for some time and yesterday my safety wire
twisters broke, so I'll be buying both of these tools at SnF.
Any recommendations on the twisters and brake tool other than to buy from Avery
or Cleveland (who won't be at Snf)?
By the way, right before my twisters broke, they became very stiff - they didn't
rotate well at all. In hindsight, I imagine the internal threads were stripping.
In any case, I was having to pull pretty hard on them to get them to twist
at all. Then, they suddenly released all the way to the stop. When they hit
the stop, the jaws lost grip. This was followed very quickly with me slamming
the twisters into my knee, which has a minor cut and is nicely bruised today.
The lesson here (and one I have to re-learn from time to time) is that if you're
having to use an unusual amount of force to make a tool work, you're putting
yourself at risk of an injury when the tool breaks or slips...
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
Seconding what Kevin said (since I didn't get the original post - that seems
to happen a lot; probably getting stripped by my ISP's spam filter), you
have actually stretched the bolt and weakened it, so it needs replacing as
well as the nut. As such, you don't have to be gentle with the bolt. A
nut-splitter will work, or careful work with a cutoff wheel (don't go
through the washer under the nut and into the structure). You may find that
the nut will still 'grab' the non-stripped threads behind it, allowing you
to simply un-bolt it, so I'd try that first if you already haven't. And,
yes, that is normal for click wrenches; I find that feel is a better
indicator than sound. No one told me how they worked and I was expecting
them to ratchet freely past torque; I just about twisted the bolt apart. ;)
Patrick Kelley - RV-6a - cabin details ongoing...
-----Original Message-----
On 2 Apr 2006, at 10:25, Jack Clark wrote:
>
> I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over
> torqued them with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts
> that I can't loosen or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a
> loud "Click" sound but only got a bending of the handle at the
> head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches in
> general or is this just how the CDI works?
>
> My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do
> they really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off
> anyway. If they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how
> to remove these nuts.
Jack,
The bolts were also over torqued, and there is no way to know how
strong they are now. If the tie down fails during a wind storm, your
aircraft could be significantly damaged. Replace the bolts and nuts.
I have no experience on removing stripped nuts, so I can't offer any
good ideas there.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 |
>
> I installed the RV-8 throttle quadrant in my -4 and it looks great and
> works
> well with one exception; the knobs on the prop and mixture controls
> protrude
> more than the standard -4 knobs and reduce stick travel slightly. My knee
> contacts the knobs and the stick touches my knee... It is most noticeable
> when doing aileron rolls to the left. I have on my "to do" list to modify
> the lever arms to locate the knobs for these levers to be flush with the
> throttle quadrant body.
>
> Good luck
> Dean Pichon
> Bolton, MA
I have some photos available of my RV-4 throttle quadrant on Flickr. Try
this link and you should be able to view them. If not, contact me directly
and I can email them.
Doug Weiler
N722DW
http://www.flickr.com/photos/n722dw/sets/72057594096959221/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William M Costello" <wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Bill Costello email address change |
Please change my email address from
wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net
to
wmcenterprises(at)comcast.net
The Earthlink address will be good for a short while longer, but not for
long.
Thanks,
Bill Costello
WMC Enterprises, Inc.
1358 W Fillmore Street Unit B
Chicago, IL 60607-4807
312-492-7407
Cell: 312-320-0018
FAX: 312-492-7408
wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
Use vice grips to get the nut off if there is room and replace nuts and
bolts.
Paul
RV8 Finish kit,
Buying avionics at Sun and Fun
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Clark" <bacstabber(at)cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365
>
> I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued them
> with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen or
> tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound but only got
> a bending of the handle at the head. First question...is this normal for
> click torque wrenches in general or is this just how the CDI works?
>
> My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they
> really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If
> they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these
> nuts.
>
> Thank you for your help...
>
> Jack
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Bartholomee" <RBartholomeee(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation |
When you buy the brake rivet tool get the one that uses a screw to set the
rivet and not the one like I bought that you use a hammer. You will save
the extra money for the non-hammer type by not cracking linings.
Roger @ MD43
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 2:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation
A brake rivet tool has been on my list for some time and yesterday my safety
wire twisters broke, so I'll be buying both of these tools at SnF.
Any recommendations on the twisters and brake tool other than to buy from
Avery or Cleveland (who won't be at Snf)?
By the way, right before my twisters broke, they became very stiff - they
didn't rotate well at all. In hindsight, I imagine the internal threads were
stripping. In any case, I was having to pull pretty hard on them to get them
to twist at all. Then, they suddenly released all the way to the stop. When
they hit the stop, the jaws lost grip. This was followed very quickly with
me slamming the twisters into my knee, which has a minor cut and is nicely
bruised today.
The lesson here (and one I have to re-learn from time to time) is that if
you're having to use an unusual amount of force to make a tool work, you're
putting yourself at risk of an injury when the tool breaks or slips...
KB
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net> |
I agree. Having a check valve between the two tanks with no other
way to vent the pressure from the main tank (when in the hot sun) will
cause bad things to happen to your tanks.
I've just spent the last weekend modifying my JJ tanks such that the
tip tank is the ONLY vent. I have removed the check valve and replaced
it with a union. The main tank vent has been capped off. Main tank
expansion is handled by allowing the fuel to move to the tip tank. Fuel
flow is not restricted to the engine (can still get 30GPH), and there is
no fuel pressure loss to the engine (can't see any difference from just
running on the original main tank with vent...). Because of the position
of the main tank outside rib feed point (from the tip tank), there is no
way to completely empty the main tank into the tip. And as log as one
always selects the fullest tank for tankoff, the chances of loosing fuel
pressure on takeoff are extremely remote.
I have also tested, on the ground with jacks, and in the air, for
abnormal tilt conditions that I thought would have caused flow from the
main tanks to the tip tanks. After 3 hours at a 30* bank angle (big
jacks!) there wasn't an appreciable amount of additional fuel in the tip
tanks unless I loosened the main tank caps and let in air. The pickup
did un-port as expected, but this happens even in Vans original design.
(Never slip into the selected tank!) The tip tanks drain into the mains
as expected while in flight.... With a single vent system, there is
never the possibility of different tank vent pressures while in flight.
The ONLY issue I have with this approach is tank vent problems in
icing conditions. Van selected the belly behind the warm cowl air for a
reason. Vents out on the wing tips will definitely ice up in even slight
icing conditions. Having both tanks vented this way means one must stay
away from ALL icing conditions (you should anyways). But for now, during
the Spring and into the summer months, it should be OK. (I fly a lot of
hard IFR, and occasionally do get traces of ice during the winter
months, so I need a more robust venting method...)
So, later this summer, I'm going to remove the main tanks again, and
run a 1/4" aluminum line between the tip tank vent (put in a "T") and
the original main tank vent (another "T"). In this manner, both tanks
vents will be at exactly the same pressure, allowing only gravity to
move the fuel from the tip tanks to the main tanks. I'll also reinstall
the check valve between the tip tank and the main tank...... Just
because JJ wanted it that way.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
From: "Bob Barrow" <bobbarrow10(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tip tanks
Hi Stephen, I would imagine that if you fully fill your inboard
tank(s) and
you have no vent in them then the fuel will have nowhere to go
when it
expands while the plane is sitting out in the sun. If it is
stopped from
going back to the tips by an Andair one-way valve the expansion
could quite
probably do serious damage to your inboard tank(s). The way to
overcome this
would be to eliminate the one-way valve..but I do not recommend
that either
as it might allow fuel to run back to the tips in flight. I think
you might
need a vent in the inboard tank(s). I'd put it where the plans
say....plenty
of warm air to keep it ice free in that location so it would
probably be a
safer bet than one vent out on the tip.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Polenske" <Rv8tor(at)centurytel.net> |
I have had a sleep study completed on me, and have been diagnosed with
sleep apnea. I have a Bi-PAP machine. I can't get used to it. I've
tried it on and off for 6 months. I also have sinus problems so it is
hard for me to breath through my nose anyway (I've had 3 operations on
my nose), that makes using the Bi-PAP machine even harder, you must
breath through your nose. I've also been told that operations for
sleep apnea are only about 40% to 60% successful with a chance for
some really bad side affects.
I work 60-80 hours a week every week, and I never fall asleep during
the day. Sure I'm tired but who wouldn't be with those hours.
Has anyone gone through this with the FAA and got your medical back
with a Special Issuance?
What is required, and what is the cost?
I could use some advice on who to talk to and, the steps to take.
Right now my medical is just expired.
I'm literally sick to my stomach that my flying days could be over,
and may never fly my RV-8.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
Jack Clark wrote:
>
>I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued them with
my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen or tighten.
On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound but only got a bending
of the handle at the head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches
in general or is this just how the CDI works?
>
>My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they really?
They seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If they do need to
be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these nuts.
>
>Thank you for your help...
>
>Jack
>
Can you get a large pair of 'dykes' (diagonal cutters) to the
intersection between the nut & washer? If so, you should be able to
squeeze & apply force outward on the nut while turning the nut. Use your
3rd hand to hold the head of the bolt. :-) Goal is to get the nut to
bite on good threads & start unscrewing.
If that fails you might try cutting the bolt even with the nut & then
drill the bolt like drilling out a rivet, but with a slightly larger bit
instead of smaller. The washer will buy you a small safety margin to
keep the bit away from the structure.
Torque wrench issues: If you've never used a torque wrench before, you
will be shocked at the small amount of force needed to torque nuts under
3/8" dia. I'll bet the wrench clicked before you even thought you had
snugged the nut.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation |
Avery tools makes a brake rivet set which is designed to be used with a
rivet squeezer. They work very well, and at $17 a set, are cheaper than
a conventional brake rivet tool. I'm forever loaning mine out.
I assume Avery will be at SnF.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Gene,
I empathize with your situation. Just Friday I got my medical back after it
was discovered that I had indications of a possible problem when I tried to
get my medical renewed in December. My problem was not the same as yours,
but there may be some similarities in what you will go through to get it
resolved.
One of the first things I did was go to the AOPA members only section and
read their discussion of the medical problem that they thought I might have.
It was a total disqualifier, so I actually ended up undergoing surgery to
prove that I didn't have it. Anyway, here is the reference to the AOPA page
about Sleep Apnea: http://www.aopa.org/members/files/medical/apnea.html
Good luck with it.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
I don't quite understand why sleep apnea would endanger your flight medical?
Is sleep apnea listed as a disqualification for a medical? You are not
taking any medication to control it, are you, and the only time you are in
any physical danger is while you are asleep.
Bob
I have had a sleep study completed on me, and have been diagnosed with
sleep apnea. I have a Bi-PAP machine. I can't get used to it. I've
tried it on and off for 6 months. I also have sinus problems so it is
hard for me to breath through my nose anyway (I've had 3 operations on
my nose), that makes using the Bi-PAP machine even harder, you must
breath through your nose. I've also been told that operations for
sleep apnea are only about 40% to 60% successful with a chance for
some really bad side affects.
I work 60-80 hours a week every week, and I never fall asleep during
the day. Sure I'm tired but who wouldn't be with those hours.
Has anyone gone through this with the FAA and got your medical back
with a Special Issuance?
What is required, and what is the cost?
I could use some advice on who to talk to and, the steps to take.
Right now my medical is just expired.
I'm literally sick to my stomach that my flying days could be over,
and may never fly my RV-8.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Bolt Torque |
Hi -
Does anyone know what the torque should be on prop bolts for a composite
Aymar Demuth (I'm sure I spelled that wrong) prop? Also for the bolts
holding the 4 inch prop extension to the crank.
Many thanks,
Parker
____________________________________
F. Parker Thomas
ShredFirst
phone 510-433-0200
fax 510-217-5976
parker(at)shredfirst.biz
www.shredfirst.biz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "N395V" <N395V(at)direcway.com> |
> the only time you are in
> any physical danger is while you are asleep.
Not quite true.
Sleep apnea has profound effects on the brain and heart depending on severity and
duration. Even mild sleep apnea degrades mental performance and decision making
therefore placing the pilot and everyone on the ground under his flightpath
in danger.
Sleep apnea does its major physical harm over 20-30 years and the consequences
at that point are deadly,disabling and irreversible.
The proper course at this point is treatment and resolution of the problem, then
worry about tne medical and flying. The CPAP machine is essential in the treatment
and if persistently used he will get used to it and feel better for it.
He also needs to be under the chronic care of a physician who specializes in this
long term. He is correct surgery is not very useful.
Just do not delude yourself into thinking it is only a loss of sleep. This is a
serious medical problem.
--------
Milt
N395V
F1 Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26229#26229
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh(at)oceanbroadband.net> |
| Subject: | First flight - VH ASF |
Listers, I am delighted to tell you that RV6 VH ASF took to the sky for the first
time yesterday, 2nd April. She has a Superior 0360 engine, turning a wooden
prop, and weighs 934 lbs without paint or gear fairings.
At full power she climbs like a rat up a drainpipe, and is quite docile to stall.
Thanks to all of you who have helped me over the last 7 years, with advice, information
and encouragement. It's been frustrating at times - but now it is definitely
all worthwhile!
Shirley Harding
RV6 VH ASF
Flying!!!! 1.7 hours
Perth
Western Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rvlist(at)rv9a.deru.com> |
Bob Perkinson wrote:
> I don't quite understand why sleep apnea would endanger your flight medical?
> Is sleep apnea listed as a disqualification for a medical? You are not
In even not so severe cases, a person with sleep apnea can fall asleep
during the day while acting as a PIC or a controller. Or as a driver of
a car.
A friend of mine wrapped his car around a lightpole a couple of years
ago after he fell asleep at the wheel. He woke up wondering how & why
he was in a wreck. Fortunately, he walked away uninjured. He was
diagnosed with sleep apnea and since then has been doing much better
with CPAP therapy.
It's definitely a serious condition, regardless of whether medication is
involved or not. However, it is not disqualifying as long as there is
effective treatment.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
N194TC - 2.5L Egg Subaru powered RV9a
http://rv9a.deru.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Bolt Torque |
>Does anyone know what the torque should be on prop bolts for a composite
>Aymar Demuth (I'm sure I spelled that wrong) prop? Also for the bolts
>holding the 4 inch prop extension to the crank.
I am using 26 ft-lbs for the prop bolts on my Aymar Demuth prop. I do not
know if it is solid wood or wood/fiberglass.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Clark" <bacstabber(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
Thanks to everyone that has helped me with their reply. I decided to use the Dremel
to cut the nut. I left a small amount of nut in place to help avoid damaging
the spar during cutting. The remaining nut was easily separated from the
bolt.
Now in my next adventure in plane building, I will learn about replacement hardware
purchasing...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Kaluza" <charleskaluza(at)verizon.net> |
I don't quite understand why sleep apnea would endanger your flight medical?
Is sleep apnea listed as a disqualification for a medical? You are not
taking any medication to control it, are you, and the only time you are in
any physical danger is while you are asleep.
The problem is the associated daytime sleepiness, big problem with over the road
truck drivers. One study showed a small percentage of truck drivers are clinically
asleep while driving 75,000 pounds at 60 MPH.
Adequate treatment should allow you to regain your medical but you may need a test
called a "Maintenance of wakefulness test". They put you in a room and dim
the lights to see if you can stay awake. Boring but proof that your ability
to stay awake is adequate. Show up for the test well rested and do not cheat
by using stimulants because they will probably do a drug screen.
CPAP and BiPAP are the standards of therapy but you need to make sure your nose
is working. Weight loss and surgery are good options. Staged surgery has been
shown to be as effective as CPAP but entails more pain and money.
I'm mostly retired now but have been able to get most pilots with OSA healthy
enough to get their medical back. OSA is a significant factor in people dying
young...if you have it, get it treated.
Charlie Kaluza
Nose Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Bolt Torque |
Ron, I think it is all wood. I called them to get torque but do not remember
it now. U can probably find them on internet.
R U going to SnF? We will be there Wed. - Sat.
Doug
C-205-873-2955
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | First flight - VH ASF |
Shirley,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh(at)oceanbroadband.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv list"
>Subject: RV-List: First flight - VH ASF
>Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2006 21:31:01 +0800
>>
>Listers, I am delighted to tell you that RV6 VH ASF took to the sky for
>the first time yesterday, 2nd April.
>
>Shirley Harding
>RV6 VH ASF
>Flying!!!! 1.7 hours
>Perth
>Western Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> |
Anybody know a faster way to get a MT Prop?
Van's (MTs) wait time is currently 16 weeks.
Looking for 2 blade, hydraulic. MTV15B/183-109
Steve
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight - VH ASF |
Shirley,
CONGRATULATIONS !!!
... and may you always have strong tail winds enroute, and gentle heads on final.
Chuck
Shirley Harding wrote:
Listers, I am delighted to tell you that RV6 VH ASF took to the sky for the first
time yesterday, 2nd April. She has a Superior 0360 engine, turning a wooden
prop, and weighs 934 lbs without paint or gear fairings.
At full power she climbs like a rat up a drainpipe, and is quite docile to stall.
Thanks to all of you who have helped me over the last 7 years, with advice, information
and encouragement. It's been frustrating at times - but now it is definitely
all worthwhile!
Shirley Harding
RV6 VH ASF
Flying!!!! 1.7 hours
Perth
Western Australia
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Bolt Torque |
Where did you get the recommendation for 26 ft-lbs? When my Aymar/Demuth
prop was new, it came packaged with a recommended torque of 18 ft-lbs. I
used permanant marker to write that figure in a visible location on the
spinner backplate, so I never forget...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 11:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Bolt Torque
>
>
>>Does anyone know what the torque should be on prop bolts for a composite
>>Aymar Demuth (I'm sure I spelled that wrong) prop? Also for the bolts
>>holding the 4 inch prop extension to the crank.
>
> I am using 26 ft-lbs for the prop bolts on my Aymar Demuth prop. I do not
> know if it is solid wood or wood/fiberglass.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
Jeff,
I'll probably need to get my Nomex underwear back out, but I was faced with
this same problem. What I do now is taxi the plane into the hangar, and use
the tow bar and gravity to get it back out. That's been working very well.
That may not work for you, depending on the type of hangar you have.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A Flying -- 150 hours
In a message dated 4/3/2006 1:47:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net writes:
Im moving into a hangar with a pretty steep ramp at the entrance, requiring
some means of towing. Im wondering if the tail tie down is strong enough to
be used to pull the plane in.
Im also considering buying an old junky mower to push it in but then I'll
have to come up with some king of tow bar.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
265 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <erichweaver(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | prop governor control |
Greetings.
Dumb-ass question of the week:
Which way does the prop governor cable work? That is, when you pull the control
knob out, does the pitch on the propellor increase or decrease?
Im installing the MT governor from Vans. It looks like I will have to cut the
exquisitely twisted safety wire on teh unit to allow me to rotate the case around
and point the control arm up. If I dont do this, the Vans support bracket
wont fit. The control arm on the governor is spring loaded, presumably so that
when my cable falls off, the prop pitch goes to the minimum value, allowing
full power and a safe return to earth. Given that, with the control arm positioned
upward, I will have to pull on the cable knob to increase the prop pitch.
Is that how its supposed to be?
Still lost in a fixed-pitch world,
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: prop governor control |
Erich,
The prop cable does not control pitch directly, but RPM. Pushing the knob
in causes more RPM, pulling the knob out reduces RPM. So that means that
pulling on the cable increases pitch. But, its better to think in terms of RPM.
Dan
RV-7A 200hp constant speed prop -- flying 150 hrs
In a message dated 4/3/2006 6:51:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
erichweaver(at)cox.net writes:
Greetings.
Dumb-ass question of the week:
Which way does the prop governor cable work? That is, when you pull the
control knob out, does the pitch on the propellor increase or decrease?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: First flight - VH ASF |
Congratulations Shirley, you're gonna love it. And I gotta ask what did you leave
out to achieve a weight of 934 pounds with an O-360, WOW!
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 195 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com>
>
> Shirley,
>
> CONGRATULATIONS !!!
>
> ... and may you always have strong tail winds enroute, and gentle heads on
> final.
>
> Chuck
>
> Shirley Harding wrote:
>
> Listers, I am delighted to tell you that RV6 VH ASF took to the sky for the
> first time yesterday, 2nd April. She has a Superior 0360 engine, turning a
> wooden prop, and weighs 934 lbs without paint or gear fairings.
>
> At full power she climbs like a rat up a drainpipe, and is quite docile to
> stall.
>
> Thanks to all of you who have helped me over the last 7 years, with advice,
> information and encouragement. It's been frustrating at times - but now it is
> definitely all worthwhile!
>
> Shirley Harding
> RV6 VH ASF
> Flying!!!! 1.7 hours
> Perth
> Western Australia
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | prop governor control |
Erich,
The way to think about it is that you are actually controlling RPM, not
pitch, although indirectly pitch will also be changed. So, full forward is
maximum RPM, pulling the knob out decreases RPM. As long as you don't move
the control, the RPM should stay constant, although the pitch may change as
you increase or decrease airspeed.
The MT governor should have come from Vans clocked properly for an RV, but
it can also be re-clocked if necessary. You may have to call Vans or go to
the MT web site to get the instructions on how to re-clock the control.
Basically, you want the cable to be 90 degrees to the governor lever at
mid-range in governor movement. Check to see that you have the support
bracket oriented properly.
And the answer to your question is "yes": pulling the control cable aft
will decrease RPM and increase pitch and the lever is spring-loaded to the
max RPM position.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of erichweaver(at)cox.net
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 7:47 PM
Subject: RV-List: prop governor control
Greetings.
Dumb-ass question of the week:
Which way does the prop governor cable work? That is, when you pull the
control knob out, does the pitch on the propellor increase or decrease?
Im installing the MT governor from Vans. It looks like I will have to cut
the exquisitely twisted safety wire on teh unit to allow me to rotate the
case around and point the control arm up. If I dont do this, the Vans
support bracket wont fit. The control arm on the governor is spring loaded,
presumably so that when my cable falls off, the prop pitch goes to the
minimum value, allowing full power and a safe return to earth. Given that,
with the control arm positioned upward, I will have to pull on the cable
knob to increase the prop pitch. Is that how its supposed to be?
Still lost in a fixed-pitch world,
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
Jack:
It would also be a good idea to check the calibration on your torque wrench. The
first one I bought when I was starting my RV-6 turned out to be over 100% in
error in the 20 to 25 inch pound range for AN-3's (25 in lbs setting was actually
60 in lbs). Suffice to say that that one went back to seller accompanied
by a very nasty letter. BTW, the seller was NOT Avery or Cleveland.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 195 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Jack Clark" <bacstabber(at)cox.net>
>
> Thanks to everyone that has helped me with their reply. I decided to use the
> Dremel to cut the nut. I left a small amount of nut in place to help avoid
> damaging the spar during cutting. The remaining nut was easily separated from
> the bolt.
>
> Now in my next adventure in plane building, I will learn about replacement
> hardware purchasing...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | prop governor control |
The MT governors DO NOT come from Van's clocked
properly. I had to reclock mine as well.
Consider it an excercise in safety wire practice...
--- Pat Hatch wrote:
>
>
> Erich,
>
> The way to think about it is that you are actually
> controlling RPM, not
> pitch, although indirectly pitch will also be
> changed. So, full forward is
> maximum RPM, pulling the knob out decreases RPM. As
> long as you don't move
> the control, the RPM should stay constant, although
> the pitch may change as
> you increase or decrease airspeed.
>
> The MT governor should have come from Vans clocked
> properly for an RV, but
> it can also be re-clocked if necessary. You may
> have to call Vans or go to
> the MT web site to get the instructions on how to
> re-clock the control.
> Basically, you want the cable to be 90 degrees to
> the governor lever at
> mid-range in governor movement. Check to see that
> you have the support
> bracket oriented properly.
>
> And the answer to your question is "yes": pulling
> the control cable aft
> will decrease RPM and increase pitch and the lever
> is spring-loaded to the
> max RPM position.
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-6
> RV-7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of erichweaver(at)cox.net
> Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 7:47 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: prop governor control
>
>
> Greetings.
>
> Dumb-ass question of the week:
>
> Which way does the prop governor cable work? That
> is, when you pull the
> control knob out, does the pitch on the propellor
> increase or decrease?
>
> Im installing the MT governor from Vans. It looks
> like I will have to cut
> the exquisitely twisted safety wire on teh unit to
> allow me to rotate the
> case around and point the control arm up. If I dont
> do this, the Vans
> support bracket wont fit. The control arm on the
> governor is spring loaded,
> presumably so that when my cable falls off, the prop
> pitch goes to the
> minimum value, allowing full power and a safe return
> to earth. Given that,
> with the control arm positioned upward, I will have
> to pull on the cable
> knob to increase the prop pitch. Is that how its
> supposed to be?
>
> Still lost in a fixed-pitch world,
>
> Erich Weaver
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Walrath" <der_Jagdflieger(at)prodigy.net> |
Jeff, running it in under power works but so does pulling it
in with a relatively inexpensive 12 volt boat trailer winch
(hooked to an old battery removed from the plane) hooked
to a cheap battery charger that is on a timer to run for
30 minutes to top off the battery after running the winch.
It pulls my RV-6A with an 1/8" cable hooked to the tail
tie-down into the hanger up a slight grade and over a
1-1/2" tall angle iron mounted on the hangar floor as the
support track for the Horton Stackdoors. The 12 volt
winch is turned on and off by a 30-foot long piece of
extension cord with a pushbutton switch at the end letting
me steer the nosewheel with the tow bar as the plane
is pulled backward into the hangar.
This scheme has worked for me at two residential
airparks over the last 25 years.
Howard Walrath
RV-6A N55HW Flying 460 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: towing 6a
Jeff,
I'll probably need to get my Nomex underwear back out, but I was faced with
this same problem. What I do now is taxi the plane into the hangar, and use
the tow bar and gravity to get it back out. That's been working very well.
That may not work for you, depending on the type of hangar you have.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A Flying -- 150 hours
In a message dated 4/3/2006 1:47:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net writes:
Im moving into a hangar with a pretty steep ramp at the entrance, requiring
some means of towing. Im wondering if the tail tie down is strong enough to
be used to pull the plane in.
Im also considering buying an old junky mower to push it in but then I'll
have to come up with some king of tow bar.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
265 hours
Chicago/Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <3edcft6(at)cox.net> |
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>What I do now is taxi the plane into the hangar, . . .
>
>
I'm with you on this one and if I ever get around to building my RV I
will do almost the same thing. If the prop pitch would reverse, I would
back it in(I hate backing out, much more than backing in), but I plan on
getting in the plane in the hanger and taxi it out. And yes you can be
110% sure there will be nothing the prop wash can send flying around the
hangar
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Ross" <dcr(at)fdltownhomes.com> |
I know a fella who uses a garage door opener to pull his C-185 by the tail
into his T-hanger. He pushes the remote and the door opener winds up the =BC=94
rope until reaches the limit switch stop. He guides it in by the tail
moving it left and right as needed using a painted strip on the floor. Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Had sufficient request for this info so am sending to the list.
Fabricating TOW BAR for RV nose wheel.
Bill of materials
6 feet - .125" wall x 1" square steel tubing
2 ea. - 3/16" thick x 10" x 2" steel flat plate
2 ea. - 5/16" X 3" bolts
4 ea. - 5/16" nuts
2 ea. - 1/4" x 2" bolts
1 ea. - 1/4" lock nut & washers
1 ea. - 1/2" OD steel tubing about 10" long
1 ea. - 1 7/8" ball coupler and mounting hardware
1.) From the square steel tubing, cut 2 one foot long pieces. These two pieces
will be the side arms of the towbar. The remaining 4 feet will be the tongue.
2.) Before welding, using a drill press, drill 5/16" holes one inch from an end
of both short pieces of the steel tubing. The holes must go thru both sides
of the tubing. In the long piece of tubing, drill a 1/2" hole about
28" from one end.
3.) One of the short pieces and the long piece of tubing are now welded between
the steel plates. The long piece is centered on the 10" length and is perpendicular
to the plates. The 1/2" holes in the long piece must be parallel to
the plates and 28" from the plates.
The short piece is at one end of the plates, perpendicular to the plates and
is in the opposite direction of the long piece. The end with the 5/16" hole
is opposite to the steel plates with the holes parallel to the steel plates.
4.) The remaining short piece of tubing is now placed between the plates on the
opposite end from the short piece that is welded in place. It must be clamped
in place for drilling with the 5/16" holes aligned with the mating holes
on the other short arm. It would be best to use a 5/16" rod, about a foot
long, running thru both arms to align the holes. Something similar may
work as well but these holes are for the engagement pins that insert into the
Allen head cap screws on the nose wheel fork so they must align well.
When every thing is squared up, drill a 1/4" hole thru the plates and the short
arm for the 1/4" bolt that will be the pivot and allow the arm to swing
out for engagement of the nose wheel fork. This hole must be placed so that
an adjacent 1/4 hole can be drilled that will be for the 1/4" locking
pin that is dropped into place after engagement with the nose wheel fork.
5.) A 5/16" nut is welded at the hole on the out side of each arm. This is done
with the 5/16" bolt thru the square steel tube and threaded into the nut. The
head of the bolt is cut off and the cut end is finished. The bolt
quality must be good enough to not bend when it is engaged into the Allen head
cap screw as all of the force in towing will be a bending moment on the
bolt. A second 5/16" nut is threaded on to the protruding threaded end of each
bolt to act as a jam nut when the proper spacing is attained
for the width of the nose fork.
6.) A piece of 1/2" OD round steel tubing is welded into the hole that is about
midway up the long tongue. This is a hand pull handle and is really optional
but I find it very convenient sometime when the towbar is not hooked to the
tractor.
7.) Holes are drilled in the end of the tongue and the ball coupler is mounted.
Notes:
The spacing and length of the arms on my towbar may not fit your nose wheel set
up . I have Van's older style nose wheel fairing - not the pressure recovery
type. On mine tThe inside dimension between the arms is 8" and the engagement
pins are 6" when the arm is in the closed position.
The square steel tubing could be a little lighter weight. I used what I had and
is probably overkill. Perhaps 3/4"square or may be 1" with a thinner wall thickness
would also work ok.
To help give an idea how it looks.
______________________
l_l_ _______________ l _ l This arm is fixed.
l l l
l _ l_________________________________________________
l _ l_________________________________________________l
l l
__l ________________l _ l
l_ l________________ l__ l This arm pivots.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-4 For Sale in Indiana |
Dennis Shirley has his very nice RV-4 listed for sale on Barnstormers.com.
He and his plane are well know in this part of the country. This is a fine
airplane that he built himself and finished in, I believe, 1994, and has flown
regularly since then. His failing hearing is forcing him to give up cross
country flying because he can't hear ATC well enough any more. He says if he
can't go places, he doesn't enjoy flying that much. He really has mixed
feelings about parting with the airplane, but says that he has to let it go.
I
think that what he is asking is extremely reasonable. Denny is a good friend
of mine, and I think that this will make someone a great airplane. Check the
ad and give him a call if you're looking for a ready to enjoy RV-4.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A Flying 150 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | Re: instrument panel water jet cutting |
Any particular reason you want water jet cutting? NC (numerically
controlled) routing is also used to cut instrument panels. The 1/8 inch
diameter router bit used can not cut as tight a corner as a water jet,
so some filing may be required for tighter corners. Avionics panel
shops should be familiar with this. Other than that, the cut panel
should come out the same. The avionics shops I talked to use NC routers.
My panel is at an avionics shop (as I type this) to be cut, painted,
engraved and matte finish epoxy clear coated. Contact me off list if
you want to know my experience so far.
Steve
RV-6A
Mickey Coggins wrote:
> Anyone have some suggestions for instrument panel
> water jet cutting? I've tried experimentalair.com
> but I'm not getting any response. Perhaps I'm being
> too impatient. Stein's focusing on complete panels,
> as is affordable panels.
>
> Thanks for any pointers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Re: instrument panel water jet cutting |
I think he was asking about water jet cutting as that's what's used
at experimentailair.com. This site has what appears to be pretty
reasonable prices for designing and cutting your panel, so I can see
the attraction.
-Joe
RV-6A. Well, I think I'm about halfway through the "V" so far :-)
On Apr 4, 2006, at 1:45 PM, Steve Allison wrote:
>
> Any particular reason you want water jet cutting? NC (numerically
> controlled) routing is also used to cut instrument panels. The 1/8
> inch
> diameter router bit used can not cut as tight a corner as a water jet,
> so some filing may be required for tighter corners. Avionics panel
> shops should be familiar with this. Other than that, the cut panel
> should come out the same. The avionics shops I talked to use NC
> routers.
>
> My panel is at an avionics shop (as I type this) to be cut, painted,
> engraved and matte finish epoxy clear coated. Contact me off list if
> you want to know my experience so far.
>
>
> Steve
> RV-6A
>
>
> Mickey Coggins wrote:
>> Anyone have some suggestions for instrument panel
>> water jet cutting? I've tried experimentalair.com
>> but I'm not getting any response. Perhaps I'm being
>> too impatient. Stein's focusing on complete panels,
>> as is affordable panels.
>>
>> Thanks for any pointers.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | instrument panel water jet cutting |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Experimental Air is owned by Ross Schlotthauer who built an RV-7. I
left him a voice mail and will be happy to pass on his phone number as
soon as I get the go ahead from him.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Larson
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: instrument panel water jet cutting
I think he was asking about water jet cutting as that's what's used
at experimentailair.com. This site has what appears to be pretty
reasonable prices for designing and cutting your panel, so I can see
the attraction.
-Joe
RV-6A. Well, I think I'm about halfway through the "V" so far :-)
On Apr 4, 2006, at 1:45 PM, Steve Allison wrote:
>
> Any particular reason you want water jet cutting? NC (numerically
> controlled) routing is also used to cut instrument panels. The 1/8
> inch
> diameter router bit used can not cut as tight a corner as a water jet,
> so some filing may be required for tighter corners. Avionics panel
> shops should be familiar with this. Other than that, the cut panel
> should come out the same. The avionics shops I talked to use NC
> routers.
>
> My panel is at an avionics shop (as I type this) to be cut, painted,
> engraved and matte finish epoxy clear coated. Contact me off list if
> you want to know my experience so far.
>
>
> Steve
> RV-6A
>
>
> Mickey Coggins wrote:
>> Anyone have some suggestions for instrument panel
>> water jet cutting? I've tried experimentalair.com
>> but I'm not getting any response. Perhaps I'm being
>> too impatient. Stein's focusing on complete panels,
>> as is affordable panels.
>>
>> Thanks for any pointers.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: experimental aircraft registration information |
The EAA kept records a few years ago and published stats in Sport Aviation. They
probably still do. Give them a call!!!
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
www.carbonfibercomposites.net
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
We have a electric winch bolted to the floor in the back of the hangar for our
Bellanca Viking. It's great when its cold and icey or if your alone with the tires
a little low.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
www.carbonfibercomposites.net
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: RV tow bar |
Dale Ensing wrote:
>
>
>Had sufficient request for this info so am sending to the list.
>
>
>Fabricating TOW BAR for RV nose wheel.
>
>Bill of materials
>6 feet - .125" wall x 1" square steel tubing
>2 ea. - 3/16" thick x 10" x 2" steel flat plate
>2 ea. - 5/16" X 3" bolts
>4 ea. - 5/16" nuts
>2 ea. - 1/4" x 2" bolts
>1 ea. - 1/4" lock nut & washers
>1 ea. - 1/2" OD steel tubing about 10" long
>1 ea. - 1 7/8" ball coupler and mounting hardware
>
>1.) From the square steel tubing, cut 2 one foot long pieces. These two pieces
will be the side arms of the towbar. The remaining 4 feet will be the tongue.
>
>2.) Before welding, using a drill press, drill 5/16" holes one inch from an
end of both short pieces of the steel tubing. The holes must go thru both sides
of the tubing. In the long piece of tubing, drill a 1/2" hole about
28" from one end.
>
>3.) One of the short pieces and the long piece of tubing are now welded between
the steel plates. The long piece is centered on the 10" length and is perpendicular
to the plates. The 1/2" holes in the long piece must be parallel
to the plates and 28" from the plates.
> The short piece is at one end of the plates, perpendicular to the plates
and is in the opposite direction of the long piece. The end with the 5/16" hole
is opposite to the steel plates with the holes parallel to the steel plates.
>
>4.) The remaining short piece of tubing is now placed between the plates on the
opposite end from the short piece that is welded in place. It must be clamped
in place for drilling with the 5/16" holes aligned with the mating
holes on the other short arm. It would be best to use a 5/16" rod, about a foot
long, running thru both arms to align the holes. Something similar may
work as well but these holes are for the engagement pins that insert into the
Allen head cap screws on the nose wheel fork so they must align well.
When every thing is squared up, drill a 1/4" hole thru the plates and the short
arm for the 1/4" bolt that will be the pivot and allow the arm to swing
out for engagement of the nose wheel fork. This hole must be placed so that
an adjacent 1/4 hole can be drilled that will be for the 1/4" locking
pin that is dropped into place after engagement with the nose wheel fork.
>
>5.) A 5/16" nut is welded at the hole on the out side of each arm. This is done
with the 5/16" bolt thru the square steel tube and threaded into the nut. The
head of the bolt is cut off and the cut end is finished. The bolt
quality must be good enough to not bend when it is engaged into the Allen
head cap screw as all of the force in towing will be a bending moment on
the bolt. A second 5/16" nut is threaded on to the protruding threaded end of
each bolt to act as a jam nut when the proper spacing is attained
for the width of the nose fork.
>
>6.) A piece of 1/2" OD round steel tubing is welded into the hole that is about
midway up the long tongue. This is a hand pull handle and is really optional
but I find it very convenient sometime when the towbar is not hooked to the
tractor.
>
>7.) Holes are drilled in the end of the tongue and the ball coupler is mounted.
>
>Notes:
>The spacing and length of the arms on my towbar may not fit your nose wheel set
up . I have Van's older style nose wheel fairing - not the pressure recovery
type. On mine tThe inside dimension between the arms is 8" and the engagement
pins are 6" when the arm is in the closed position.
>The square steel tubing could be a little lighter weight. I used what I had and
is probably overkill. Perhaps 3/4"square or may be 1" with a thinner wall thickness
would also work ok.
>
>To help give an idea how it looks.
>______________________
>l_l_ _______________ l _ l This arm is fixed.
> l l l
> l _ l_________________________________________________
> l _ l_________________________________________________l
> l l
>__l ________________l _ l
>l_ l________________ l__ l This arm pivots.
>
Hey Dale, why not put this on Matt's new wiki?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Sneed <n242ds(at)cox.net> |
Can someone please give me the part number or the spruce part number
for brake pads for my rv-6?
thanks a bunch,
Jason
n242ds(at)cox.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
If you want the 4-pad Rapco lining kit for the 66-106 style pad, it's
06-00651.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/rapco_brklinig.php
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (847 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Sneed" <n242ds(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 9:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: brake pads
>
> Can someone please give me the part number or the spruce part number
> for brake pads for my rv-6?
>
> thanks a bunch,
>
> Jason
>
> n242ds(at)cox.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: instrument panel water jet cutting |
There is a gentlemen in Nashville TN that cut mine for me. Lee Moore, who's
email is "Jet@south-tech.us" or call him at (615) 847-8226. He was very
helpful. I started with my own Turbo Cad file and he spiffed it up, cut a
piece of scrap for fit up and then we cut the real deal. I actually had him
make three pieces, a frame that will be permanently mounted in the RV and
then two panels, left and right, leaving a center cutout for my radios.
Very accurate cutting, with no metal burning as in a laser cut. He can
punch holes in 1.5" thick steel. It is worth a visit if you have not seen
this live.
Marty in Nashville TN, RV-6A panel mounting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Flamini" <flamini2(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6 Chicago area for sale |
For sale RV-6 tilt-up in Chicago area;
Approx 300hrs TT
150hp not H2AD major OH at 0hrs
Warnake wood prop
Com, Transponder, GPS, Gyros, Intercom
Perfect rivits, no bondo
$50,000 firm
You guys know the parts cost this much, you get 5 years labor for free!
Call Paul at 708-534-3042 after 6pm
see the photo section of;
http://home.comcast.net/~flamini2/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--delay-5-SiteID-2735304.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chaztuna(at)adelphia.net |
| Subject: | RV nosewheel wanted & RV8 parts for sale |
I have the following parts for sale. I have listed the current New Price from Vans
for each item. I will sell any or all of these for 60% of the listed price.
Prices shown are each. All parts will be at Sun N Fun from today till late Sunday.
If interested please call Charlie at (561)212-7785 or inquire at the Sheet
Metal Workshop Friday or Saturday afternoon.
1 F-802A-L Fwd Landing Gear Bulkhead $23.03
1 F-802A-R $23.03
1 F-802B-L Aft $22.86
1 F-802B-R Aft $22.86
1 F-802C-L Gear box web $13.27
1 F-802C-R $13.27
2 F-802D Gear box skin plates $17.90
1 F-802KPP Gear box Z angle forward $11.27
1 F-802LPP Aft $12.86
1 F-802MPP-L Floor rib $3.53
1 F-802MPP-R $3.53
1 F-802NPP Landing gear box upper brace forward $17.40
1 F-802TPP $16.58
2 F-802S Landing gear box spacer Plates $5.01
1 F-806BPP Rear spar attach bulkhead $21.54
2 F-811 Fuselage Bulkhead $23.71
2 F-812 Fuselage Bulkhead $12.69
1 F-836PP-L Exhaust ramp rib $3.55
1 F-836PP-R $3.55
1 F-844-L Aux Longeron $15.46
1 F-844-R $15.46
2 F-845PP Lower longeron gussets $1.35
2 F-846 Longeron gussets $1.69
1 F-851PP-L Fwd Belly skin $16.61
1 F-851PP-R $16.61
1F-861PPR Plate Landing gear cover $4.16
1F-861PPL Plate $4.16
1 F-864APP Throttle console $7.37
1 F-864BPP Throttle console top $3.77
1 F-865PP Right console $7.97
1 F-878PP-L Angle Mid Cabin Brace $8.78
1 F-878PP-R $8.78
1 F-880BPP-L Fwd Seat Ramp Rib $3.69
1 F-880BPP-R $3.69
2 F-881PP Plates Mid Cabin Cover $5.52
2 W-802PP Top Inner Wing Main Skins $49.35
2 W-803PP Top Outer Wing Main Skins (0.025") $60.00
1 W-804PP-L Bottom Inner Wing Main Skin (0.032") $57.73
1 W-804PP-R $57.73
1 W-805PP-L Bottom Outer Wing Main Skin (0.025") $64.20
1 W-805PP-R " " " " " "
$64.20
Wanted to buy
RV 6A, 7A or 8A nosewheel & related parts
Actual shipping charges to be added to parts not purchased at Sun N' Fun.
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clive Whittfield" <cazw(at)ihug.co.nz> |
| Subject: | RV6 Control column |
Listers
Trying to set up the control columns per the instructions and refering to DWG 41
I find that I cannot get the sticks parallel while maintaining the stated measurements.
The 19 inch bolt centre measurement for the end bearings on the F-665
seems a little too long. With everything in place tops of the control sticks
slope slightly inward ie the distance between the tops of the stick is about
an inch less than down near the pivot points. I have wound the rod end bearings
in as far as they can go, and have double checked all measurements making
sure the weldments are correctly manufactured etc, and all seem to be correct.
The easy fix would appear to simply shorten the F-655 to suit, but am reluctant
to commit to that option without some advice first.
Has anyone else struck this or am I missing something?
Clive Whittfield
New Zealand
RV6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Control column |
Clive,
I would make the sticks parallel to your liking by shortening the rod.
Cutting it shorter if needed also. Mine are parallel and I have no idea
what the length of the rod is.
IMHO
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Clive Whittfield
Date: 04/07/06 01:58:11
Subject: RV-List: RV6 Control column
Listers
Trying to set up the control columns per the instructions and refering to
DWG 41 I find that I cannot get the sticks parallel while maintaining the
stated measurements. The 19 inch bolt centre measurement for the end
bearings on the F-665 seems a little too long. With everything in place
tops of the control sticks slope slightly inward ie the distance between the
tops of the stick is about an inch less than down near the pivot points. I
have wound the rod end bearings in as far as they can go, and have double
checked all measurements making sure the weldments are correctly
manufactured etc, and all seem to be correct. The easy fix would appear to
simply shorten the F-655 to suit, but am reluctant to commit to that option
without some advice first.
Has anyone else struck this or am I missing something?
Clive Whittfield
New Zealand
RV6 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Control column |
Check where the sticks attach to the brackets that mount to the spar. You can
change washers inboard or outboard to modify the angle of the dangle. Actually,
you should first check that the spar attach brackets are correctly mounted......
After setting mine up it came out parallel - but I don't have enough threads left
to turn either heim joint a full turn inboard...that tells me that they're
close right out of the box.
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: Tim Bryan <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
>Sent: Apr 7, 2006 11:03 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 Control column
>
>
>Clive,
>
>I would make the sticks parallel to your liking by shortening the rod.
>Cutting it shorter if needed also. Mine are parallel and I have no idea
>what the length of the rod is.
>
>IMHO
>Tim
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: Clive Whittfield
>Date: 04/07/06 01:58:11
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV6 Control column
>
>
>Listers
>
>Trying to set up the control columns per the instructions and refering to
>DWG 41 I find that I cannot get the sticks parallel while maintaining the
>stated measurements. The 19 inch bolt centre measurement for the end
>bearings on the F-665 seems a little too long. With everything in place
>tops of the control sticks slope slightly inward ie the distance between the
>tops of the stick is about an inch less than down near the pivot points. I
>have wound the rod end bearings in as far as they can go, and have double
>checked all measurements making sure the weldments are correctly
>manufactured etc, and all seem to be correct. The easy fix would appear to
>simply shorten the F-655 to suit, but am reluctant to commit to that option
>without some advice first.
>
>Has anyone else struck this or am I missing something?
>
>Clive Whittfield
>New Zealand
>RV6 Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-12 question |
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com wrote:
> ELSA isn't going to go away but the sub-qualifications under ELA that covers
> existing aircraft may change. We will just have to wait and see how it goes
> and how to manage/manipulate it.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
Actually, I think the "existing aircraft" qualification applies to ultralights
that have not been previously certified, so they can get the E-LSA certification
before 2008. It absolutely does not effect the rules that apply to other aircraft.
If someone buys an RV-12, they will have a choice to certify it either
as E-LSA or experimental, amateur built. In either case, it can be flown by a
sport pilot because it meets the definition of a LSA. The definition of an LSA
is based upon certain performance parameters, weight, and number of seats etc.
It is not in any way defined by the certification it receives, ie - standard,
E-LSA, S-LSA, or experimental, amateur built.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26868#26868
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Control column |
Clive,
I had the same problem. My fix was to trim the F-655 ends and tap the
rod end holes deeper. Do what you need to make the control columns
parallel.
Steve
RV-6A
Clive Whittfield wrote:
> Trying to set up the control columns per the instructions and refering to DWG
41 I find that I cannot get the sticks parallel while maintaining the stated
measurements. The 19 inch bolt centre measurement for the end bearings on the
F-665 seems a little too long. With everything in place tops of the control
sticks slope slightly inward ie the distance between the tops of the stick is
about an inch less than down near the pivot points. I have wound the rod end
bearings in as far as they can go, and have double checked all measurements making
sure the weldments are correctly manufactured etc, and all seem to be correct.
The easy fix would appear to simply shorten the F-655 to suit, but am reluctant
to commit to that option without some advice first.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Control column |
Clive,
I had the same issue and solved it the same way Steve did as described below.
Do what you have to do to make it right.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 198 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org>
>
> Clive,
>
> I had the same problem. My fix was to trim the F-655 ends and tap the
> rod end holes deeper. Do what you need to make the control columns
> parallel.
>
> Steve
> RV-6A
>
>
>
> Clive Whittfield wrote:
> > Trying to set up the control columns per the instructions and refering to DWG
> 41 I find that I cannot get the sticks parallel while maintaining the stated
> measurements. The 19 inch bolt centre measurement for the end bearings on the
> F-665 seems a little too long. With everything in place tops of the control
> sticks slope slightly inward ie the distance between the tops of the stick is
> about an inch less than down near the pivot points. I have wound the rod end
> bearings in as far as they can go, and have double checked all measurements
> making sure the weldments are correctly manufactured etc, and all seem to be
> correct. The easy fix would appear to simply shorten the F-655 to suit, but
am
> reluctant to commit to that option without some advice first.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
I have a VERY heavy left wing on my RV8A. Full aileron trim doesn't begin to correct
it. I measured the flap angles and found the left flap to be 1 degree
more up than the right flap. I also checked the wing incidence and found them
to be within 1/10 of a degree of each other. So, I'm contemplating cranking
the left flap down 1 degree and fly to test. However, I thought I'd ask if you
thought that was too big a change to make all at once from your testing experience
and in addition whether a single degree would be likely to make a big difference.
A related question is how can I tell whether the flaps are in neutral trail more
accurately than with the wing template. Maybe I should be raising the right
flap? With the wing at 0 degrees incidence, it would seem that neutral trail
on the flap would be a specific number of degrees as measured, say, across the
top of the flap. Do you know of such a number? I've never seen anything like
this on the list but I bet Vans design computer could spit this right out.
This would make it much easier to set the flap angle.
Dave Reel - RV8A - 3 hrs & a tired right arm.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dsvs(at)comcast.net |
To set the flaps you need to first set the ailerons at 0 degrees relative to each
other. Do this by setting a straight edge along the tooling holes of the outboard
wing rib and align that with the trailing edge of the aileron. Do this
fon both wings independently. After the ailerons are set leave the straight
edge attached to one wing and set the ailerons to neutral (in alignment). The
flaps in the up position should align with the ailerons at this time. Another
thing to look at is that the flaps and alireons are not at an angle to the
wing inboard to outboard. Hope this helps. Don
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
>
> I have a VERY heavy left wing on my RV8A. Full aileron trim doesn't begin to
> correct it. I measured the flap angles and found the left flap to be 1 degree
> more up than the right flap. I also checked the wing incidence and found them
> to be within 1/10 of a degree of each other. So, I'm contemplating cranking
the
> left flap down 1 degree and fly to test. However, I thought I'd ask if you
> thought that was too big a change to make all at once from your testing
> experience and in addition whether a single degree would be likely to make a
big
> difference.
>
> A related question is how can I tell whether the flaps are in neutral trail more
> accurately than with the wing template. Maybe I should be raising the right
> flap? With the wing at 0 degrees incidence, it would seem that neutral trail
on
> the flap would be a specific number of degrees as measured, say, across the top
T
> of the flap. Do you know of such a number? I've never seen anything like this
> on the list but I bet Vans design computer could spit this right out. This
> would make it much easier to set the flap angle.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A - 3 hrs & a tired right arm.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Control column |
Steve, I had to do the same thing on my RV6-A.
Tom in
Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Allison" <stevea(at)svpal.org>
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 Control column
>
> Clive,
>
> I had the same problem. My fix was to trim the F-655 ends and tap the
> rod end holes deeper. Do what you need to make the control columns
> parallel.
>
> Steve
> RV-6A
>
>
> Clive Whittfield wrote:
>> Trying to set up the control columns per the instructions and refering to
>> DWG 41 I find that I cannot get the sticks parallel while maintaining the
>> stated measurements. The 19 inch bolt centre measurement for the end
>> bearings on the F-665 seems a little too long. With everything in place
>> tops of the control sticks slope slightly inward ie the distance between
>> the tops of the stick is about an inch less than down near the pivot
>> points. I have wound the rod end bearings in as far as they can go, and
>> have double checked all measurements making sure the weldments are
>> correctly manufactured etc, and all seem to be correct. The easy fix
>> would appear to simply shorten the F-655 to suit, but am reluctant to
>> commit to that option without some advice first.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Another thing to look for is the height of the aileron relative to the
wing. Despite my best efforts, my left flap was 3/16 or so low at the
outboard end. The ailerons can be set to the proper angle and still
cause a heavy wing. A new aileron hinge and about an hour of worked
cleared it right up.
Van's has a good write-up on the heavy wing problem.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Heavy.pdf
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
Hey did anyone notice that your can get a new Moony s the same performance as our
planes for only $495k? Chas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
| Subject: | Tight turns, how to keep from climbing |
Well, when I first got her I was suprised to find that my 6a would climb at about
500'm in a tight turn without me noticing it ( lots of cherokee time previous
which you gotta haul her back in a tight turn.) Still after a about 110 hrs
in her, if im flying along and see something I want to circle over, I pull a
heavy turn and next thing I know Im climbing 500' min. Anybody have a fool proof
method of automaticly setting the stick to prevennt this? (I was once know
as a very presicion pilot)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Any have a IO-360 with a Dualmag setup? |
If so and you have a CS setup up, I have a couple of prop governor questions.
Please email me off line.
thanks
lucky
If so and you have a CS setup up, I have a couple of prop governor questions.
Please email me off line.
thanks
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Fenstermacher <davidfenster(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | switching from slow build to QB |
I have the wings on my slooooo 8 almost done.
I am thinking of switching to the quick build fuse.
I realize you have to send the center section back...
Anyone done this - and what was your experience?
Were there any "issues" from doing this. I wanna get this thing done!
Thanks,
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Tight turns, how to keep from climbing |
Practice , practice , practice. That's what it is all about - flying !!!
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com> |
Sure.... but the quality and structural integrity ain't half as good !
charles heathco wrote:
Hey did anyone notice that your can get a new Moony s the same performance as our
planes for only $495k? Chas
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Johnson" <matt(at)n559rv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: switching from slow build to QB |
I did this. There were no issues but the lead time was 9 months and the actual
time from when I ordered until it was on my door was
almost a year...
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: David Fenstermacher <davidfenster(at)comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2006 22:49:51 -0400
Subject: RV-List: switching from slow build to QB
>
>
> I have the wings on my slooooo 8 almost done.
> I am thinking of switching to the quick build fuse.
>
> I realize you have to send the center section back...
> Anyone done this - and what was your experience?
> Were there any "issues" from doing this. I wanna get this thing done!
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
On 7 Apr 2006, at 16:51, DAVID REEL wrote:
>
> I have a VERY heavy left wing on my RV8A. Full aileron trim
> doesn't begin to correct it. I measured the flap angles and found
> the left flap to be 1 degree more up than the right flap. I also
> checked the wing incidence and found them to be within 1/10 of a
> degree of each other. So, I'm contemplating cranking the left flap
> down 1 degree and fly to test. However, I thought I'd ask if you
> thought that was too big a change to make all at once from your
> testing experience and in addition whether a single degree would be
> likely to make a big difference.
I believe one degree of flap assymetry could make a significant
difference. I would have no concern about making that whole change
at once, as you have more than enough aileron authority to counter
the effect of a one degree flap change.
>
> A related question is how can I tell whether the flaps are in
> neutral trail more accurately than with the wing template. Maybe I
> should be raising the right flap? With the wing at 0 degrees
> incidence, it would seem that neutral trail on the flap would be a
> specific number of degrees as measured, say, across the top of the
> flap. Do you know of such a number? I've never seen anything like
> this on the list but I bet Vans design computer could spit this
> right out. This would make it much easier to set the flap angle.
I don't have any advice on the best way to measure flap angle. But,
from a performance point of view, it is better to err on the side of
having the retracted position too high than to have it too low.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Vans VA-186 Oil cooler box assy |
Fellow listers,
Has anyone out there used this thing for their oil cooler? It is supposed to be
for the 20006A or 8604R oil cooler. I got this thing - no photos/instructions
and it doesn't look right to do what I think its supposed to do.
Any help would be appreciated,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | switching from slow build to QB |
> -->
>
> I have the wings on my slooooo 8 almost done.
> I am thinking of switching to the quick build fuse.
>
> I realize you have to send the center section back...
> Anyone done this - and what was your experience?
> Were there any "issues" from doing this. I wanna get this thing done!
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
Dave,
Building these planes is remarkably similar to mountain climbing - one can
see a lot of "false summits" along the way. I truly don't want to
discourage you, but when building a slow build, the work is perhaps 40% done
when the airframe is complete to the point of a quickbuild (this percentage
was higher with the old, non prepunched kits). The visual progress slows a
lot at that point. What is important is to force yourself to think of the
whole project as a series of small, palatable projects. E.g., "I'm building
an aileron", or, "I'm building a canopy". I think one of the easiest
mistakes, and the cause of much discouragement, is to think too far ahead.
Have live discussions with those who have been there before, I suspect they
will all agree with my assessment/recommendations (I was given the same good
advice when building mine).
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 740 hours, and stuck in FL with yet another failed LASAR mag.
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
----- Original Message ----- >
> I have a VERY heavy left wing on my RV8A. Full aileron trim doesn't begin
> to correct it. I measured the flap angles and found the left flap to be 1
> degree more up than the right flap. I also checked the wing incidence and
> found them to be within 1/10 of a degree of each other. So, I'm
> contemplating cranking the left flap down 1 degree and fly to test.
> However, I thought I'd ask if you thought that was too big a change to
> make all at once from your testing experience and in addition whether a
> single degree would be likely to make a big difference.
>
> A related question is how can I tell whether the flaps are in neutral
> trail more accurately than with the wing template. Maybe I should be
> raising the right flap? With the wing at 0 degrees incidence, it would
> seem that neutral trail on the flap would be a specific number of degrees
> as measured, say, across the top of the flap. Do you know of such a
> number? I've never seen anything like this on the list but I bet Vans
> design computer could spit this right out. This would make it much easier
> to set the flap angle.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A - 3 hrs & a tired right arm.
>
>
Vans has an excellent document on how to fix a heavy wing. Get from their
web site. Check it out in the order they recommend. Only consider
squeezing the aileron after the other things have been checked and fixed if
necessary. I takes only a very minor difference to cause this heavy or
light condition. I worked on mine for months before finally squeezing the
light aileron and the amount I squeezed it could not even been detected. It
was very, very slight. Also: Check Dan Checkoway's website for his
solution which involved an aileron bracket placement adjustment. Indiana
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: switching from slow build to QB |
For me the wings were slow and not as much fun. The fuselage provides a lot
more satisfaction with a lot less work. Enjoy it and watch it take shape
rather quickly. You can build it up the quick build stage rather quickly
Then the tedious part comes.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: David Fenstermacher
Date: 04/07/06 19:55:15
Subject: RV-List: switching from slow build to QB
net>
I have the wings on my slooooo 8 almost done.
I am thinking of switching to the quick build fuse.
I realize you have to send the center section back...
Anyone done this - and what was your experience?
Were there any "issues" from doing this. I wanna get this thing done!
Thanks,
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
Cc:
| Subject: | noise levels in the 10 |
I have been researching sound deadening techniques for my RV 10 project and was
interested to know if anybody has measured cabin noise with a DB meter. Obviously
I am most interested in the 10 but would love to hear of the other models
as well. It would be really great if somebody has measured before and after sound
proofing their plane. Pretty hard on the 10 because of the double floors....you
have to install the soundproof materials before pop riveting down the floor
panels. If anybody is going to Vans for a test ride anytime soon maybe we
could get a sound level from one of their planes to use as a baseline. Vans builds
their planes as light as possible so they will be as loud as you can get.
Just for fun I looked up the sound levels in the Cirrus SR20....95 dBA in cruise.
Much louder than I would have expected.
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
Dave,
I had a lot of trouble with my -4 after bird damage and repair to my main
gearleg fairing. A heavy wing condition was ultimately cured by carefully
re-adjusting my gear leg fairings. One clue to my problem was that when the
aircraft was held in a level condition, the skid ball was off by a couple
of diameters. I just thought I might add a few more complications to your
problem solving.
Louis
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: noise levels in the 10 |
I recently checked the sound levels in my RV-6. I was careful to note the levels
at approximately ear level and position because I noted a couple of Db difference
from low in the cabin to closer to the canopy(lowder as you get nearer
the canopy level). I measured 97-98 Db in full throttle climb and 95Db in cruise.
I have sound proofing under the front floor carpet and foam padded leather
upholstery in the forward cabin side panels, otherwise no other sound proofing.
I am surprised that the the Cirrus is apparently as loud as the RV-6.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 198 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
>
> I have been researching sound deadening techniques for my RV 10 project and was
> interested to know if anybody has measured cabin noise with a DB meter.
> Obviously I am most interested in the 10 but would love to hear of the other
> models as well. It would be really great if somebody has measured before and
> after sound proofing their plane. Pretty hard on the 10 because of the double
> floors....you have to install the soundproof materials before pop riveting down
> the floor panels. If anybody is going to Vans for a test ride anytime soon maybe
> we could get a sound level from one of their planes to use as a baseline. Vans
> builds their planes as light as possible so they will be as loud as you can get.
> Just for fun I looked up the sound levels in the Cirrus SR20....95 dBA in
> cruise. Much louder than I would have expected.
> Evan Johnson
> www.evansaviationproducts.com
> (530)247-0375
> (530)351-1776 cell
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
| Subject: | Re: switching from slow build to QB |
Dave,
I did it. I'm building a -7 and had slow-build wings, but late in the game
decided to go with a QB fuselage. The -only- issue is that there is a lot
of lead time ... so make the decision as early as you can. If you are about
done with your wings, you may have to exercise some patience.
Call Van's and they'll tell you exactly what to do (and, yes, you do need
to send your center section back ... I never unwrapped mine from the plastic
bundle and it all went back untouched by me). Worked like a charm for me,
and I'm glad I went that route.
-- Dwight
On Fri Apr 7 22:49:51 2006, David Fenstermacher wrote :
>I have the wings on my slooooo 8 almost done.
>I am thinking of switching to the quick build fuse.
>
>I realize you have to send the center section back...
>Anyone done this - and what was your experience?
>Were there any "issues" from doing this. I wanna get this thing done!
>
>Thanks,
>Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> |
I had a heavy rt wing on my 6a when I bought her, my friend Mike took a look at
her and said that the wing had been built with a slope that couldnt be corected,
so I pulled the left flap up a bit and the rt one down a bit, took care of
it. When I had my cherokke, i had same problem, and did the same thing, Charles
Heahco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <billdube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | World's best airplane battery |
I am considering producing state-of-the art, very lightweight, ultra
long life, starting batteries for experimental aircraft. They won't
be cheap to make, however. I'd like to get some feedback as to the
market for these before I put a big effort into this.
Here are the specs:
14 volts
480 cranking amps
8.8 amp-hours
2.7 pounds (Yes, really just 2.7 pounds.)
10 year warrantee (prorated)
Completely sealed battery
Safer than lead acid or NiCad
Built-in electronic monitoring system warns of over-voltage,
under-voltage, over heating, or internal battery fault.
That is all the good news. The downside is that they will cost about
$475. I'm not sure how many folks would want a 10 year battery (at
least) that weighs about 1/3 as much as an "ordinary" battery, but
costs four times as much.
The specs above are real. I have personally tested these batteries
and they do, indeed, perform this well, so that is not an issue. I
know I can make these. I'm going to make one for myself. The question
is, will folks buy them if I more of them?
Let me know if you think you would be interested in such a high-tech
battery at this cost.
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Wing conduit material |
I found 3/4 inch 6061-T6 .058 wall tubing for $1.XX at foot. Would this be suitable
for wing conduit material? Would this provide some electrical shielding?
Sherman Butler
.
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Empennage
Idaho Falls
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing conduit material |
6061 is conductive. If a wire breaks and touches the conduit it will spark.
Try something a little less conductive like PVC, ordinary conduit.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherman Butler" <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 11:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing conduit material
>
> I found 3/4 inch 6061-T6 .058 wall tubing for $1.XX at foot. Would this
> be suitable for wing conduit material? Would this provide some electrical
> shielding?
>
> Sherman Butler
>
>
> .
>
>
> Sherman Butler
> RV-7a Empennage
> Idaho Falls
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing conduit material |
Don't know about anybody else, but for conduit, I wouldn't want a material
that conducts or corrodes. I'm personally a fan of plastic or PVC. FWIW, I
used the black conduit that Van's sells. http://tinyurl.com/pubwa It's as
close to "weightless" as conduit gets, and it's less than 30 cents per foot.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherman Butler" <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 3:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing conduit material
>
> I found 3/4 inch 6061-T6 .058 wall tubing for $1.XX at foot. Would this
> be suitable for wing conduit material? Would this provide some electrical
> shielding?
>
> Sherman Butler
>
>
> .
>
>
> Sherman Butler
> RV-7a Empennage
> Idaho Falls
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Need owner histories for a Kitplanes article |
Folks -
For an upcoming Kitplanes article, I'm doing a story on RV
maintenance history, things that a second owner might want to be
aware of, etc. Please email me your phone number and I'll give you a
call -- that works lots better than Q&A email.
thanks
Ed Wischmeyer
RV-4 third owner
RV-10 builder
www.greatusermanuals.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
Hi Bill,
Sounds like Lithium Ion or Polymer to me. If it is, I would have extreme concerns
as to what the safety measures would be insure no fire or explosion.
Being heavy into RC with several LiPo powered electrics and helicopters, I can
tell you these batteries are nowhere near safe. I only charge these batteries
when I'm monitoring them. Additionally, I charge them in a deal called a "battery
bunker" which is like a small SWAT team containment can in the event of over
heating and/or explosion.
I have had 2 friends have their vechicles burn to the ground while charging these
batteries. They cannot handle ANY over charging at all. One exploded when only
being charged at .5 its rated amperage. Normal charge is 1:1.
I commend your ingenuity but this may be a tough sell. Maybe after you put one
in your plane and fly it a few hundred hours they may gain some acceptance. In
the mean time $475 equates to 7 Odyssey batteries.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
RV-7 N717EE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Chicago area for sale |
What airport?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Flamini" <flamini2(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 9:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Chicago area for sale
>
> For sale RV-6 tilt-up in Chicago area;
> Approx 300hrs TT
> 150hp not H2AD major OH at 0hrs
> Warnake wood prop
> Com, Transponder, GPS, Gyros, Intercom
> Perfect rivits, no bondo
> $50,000 firm
> You guys know the parts cost this much, you get 5 years labor for free!
> Call Paul at 708-534-3042 after 6pm
> see the photo section of;
> http://home.comcast.net/~flamini2/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--delay-5-SiteID-2735304.html
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing conduit material |
Wires on high vibration machinery are often replaced
due to vibration wear.
Something to consider. When your engine is running,
even though you may think it is running smooth, there
is vibration. The wires inside the metal conduit will
also vibrate and ever so slightly and abrade till they
wear through. This will happen in the air more often
than not. Use PVC conduit or the flexible tubing that
looks like shop vac hose. I would rather replace a
worn conduit than worn and shorted wires. I have been
an electrician for 28 years, so I feel somewhat
qualified to answer your question.
--- Sherman Butler wrote:
>
>
> I found 3/4 inch 6061-T6 .058 wall tubing for $1.XX
> at foot. Would this be suitable for wing conduit
> material? Would this provide some electrical
> shielding?
>
> Sherman Butler
>
>
> .
>
>
>
> Sherman Butler
> RV-7a Empennage
> Idaho Falls
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need owner histories for a Kitplanes article |
I cant stress enough how important it is to get the builder to show you ALL
deviations from the plans. As a second owner it is often very hard to find
them, but the builder knows every detail of the airframe. For example I just
built a set of new fuel tanks for a very nice RV4 that is being rebuilt
after an accident. Problem is the original builder put RV6 tanks on his bird
for extra fuel and the current owner did not know. So the nice shiny new
tanks are about 8" short. This one worked out well as we were lucky enough
to have another builder need the same tanks at the same time so they got
drop shipped to him instead. Now my client will have to wait as I order new
parts and build new tanks....if nothing else this is costing a lot of down
time. On top of all this, these kind of changes are certainly not approved
by Vans. Now I know everybody has their own comfort limits as far as changes
go, but as a second owner you will not be tuned into the airplane anatomy as
the original builder is. You need to know where even the smallest changes
are even to begin to draw your lines. My advice is at the very least, find
somebody who you trust and who has built the same airplane to go with you
for your pre-buy inspection.
Cheers...
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Wischmeyer" <edwisch(at)cableone.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 6:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: Need owner histories for a Kitplanes article
>
> Folks -
>
> For an upcoming Kitplanes article, I'm doing a story on RV
> maintenance history, things that a second owner might want to be
> aware of, etc. Please email me your phone number and I'll give you a
> call -- that works lots better than Q&A email.
>
> thanks
>
>
> Ed Wischmeyer
> RV-4 third owner
> RV-10 builder
> www.greatusermanuals.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
Bill, I've got several aircraft that I would put them in " if " they were SAFE
and you could keep the price under $500. I echo others' concern on the technology
being safe.
Chuck
"BillDube(at)killacycle.com" wrote:
I am considering producing state-of-the art, very lightweight, ultra
long life, starting batteries for experimental aircraft. They won't
be cheap to make, however. I'd like to get some feedback as to the
market for these before I put a big effort into this.
Here are the specs:
14 volts
480 cranking amps
8.8 amp-hours
2.7 pounds (Yes, really just 2.7 pounds.)
10 year warrantee (prorated)
Completely sealed battery
Safer than lead acid or NiCad
Built-in electronic monitoring system warns of over-voltage,
under-voltage, over heating, or internal battery fault.
That is all the good news. The downside is that they will cost about
$475. I'm not sure how many folks would want a 10 year battery (at
least) that weighs about 1/3 as much as an "ordinary" battery, but
costs four times as much.
The specs above are real. I have personally tested these batteries
and they do, indeed, perform this well, so that is not an issue. I
know I can make these. I'm going to make one for myself. The question
is, will folks buy them if I more of them?
Let me know if you think you would be interested in such a high-tech
battery at this cost.
Bill Dube'
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
Hmm yes, there is a video clip at
http://www.helihobby.com/videos/*LithiumBattery*.*wmv* showing the
effects of an overcharged Lithium Ion battery. Now i believe this
battery was intentionally overcharged, but.... the pyro at the end is
still impressive.
As a forensics person i have seen my share of Li-Ion batteries which
caused fire or harm, plenty recalls for especially aftermarket camera
and cellphone batteries going around.
Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> Sounds like Lithium Ion or Polymer to me. If it is, I would have extreme concerns
as to what the safety measures would be insure no fire or explosion.
>
> Being heavy into RC with several LiPo powered electrics and helicopters, I can
tell you these batteries are nowhere near safe. I only charge these batteries
when I'm monitoring them. Additionally, I charge them in a deal called a "battery
bunker" which is like a small SWAT team containment can in the event of
over heating and/or explosion.
>
> I have had 2 friends have their vechicles burn to the ground while charging these
batteries. They cannot handle ANY over charging at all. One exploded when
only being charged at .5 its rated amperage. Normal charge is 1:1.
>
> I commend your ingenuity but this may be a tough sell. Maybe after you put one
in your plane and fly it a few hundred hours they may gain some acceptance.
In the mean time $475 equates to 7 Odyssey batteries.
>
> Darwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
> RV-7 N717EE
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
Hmmm somehow asterixes sneaked in the correct URL is
http://www.helihobby.com/videos/LithiumBattery.wmv
Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> Sounds like Lithium Ion or Polymer to me. If it is, I would have extreme concerns
as to what the safety measures would be insure no fire or explosion.
>
> Being heavy into RC with several LiPo powered electrics and helicopters, I can
tell you these batteries are nowhere near safe. I only charge these batteries
when I'm monitoring them. Additionally, I charge them in a deal called a "battery
bunker" which is like a small SWAT team containment can in the event of
over heating and/or explosion.
>
> I have had 2 friends have their vechicles burn to the ground while charging these
batteries. They cannot handle ANY over charging at all. One exploded when
only being charged at .5 its rated amperage. Normal charge is 1:1.
>
> I commend your ingenuity but this may be a tough sell. Maybe after you put one
in your plane and fly it a few hundred hours they may gain some acceptance.
In the mean time $475 equates to 7 Odyssey batteries.
>
> Darwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
> RV-7 N717EE
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <billdube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
At 08:36 AM 4/9/2006, you wrote:
>
>Hi Bill,
>
>Sounds like Lithium Ion or Polymer to me. If it is, I would have
>extreme concerns as to what the safety measures would be insure no
>fire or explosion.
Safety is not an issue. That is why they are so expensive.
The specs are real. I have personally tested them myself.
Would you pay $475 for such a battery?
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <billdube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
At 11:26 PM 4/8/2006, you wrote:
>
>I find your claims a bit hard to believe.
Here's what I do for my other hobby:
http://www.killacycle.com
These batteries are the latest and best available. I have
been working directly with the manufacturer.
Forget everything you know about batteries. For the moment,
consider these are made of "Krell metal". :-)
<http://www.umich.edu/~umfandsf/film/promise/forbidden-krell-tech.html>
The specs are a fact. I'm just interested in whether folks
would be willing to pay $475 for such a battery.
Bill Dube'
> The only battery chemistry, I
>know of, that can put that many watt hours in that light of a package
>are lithium polymer. The price sounds about right for a lithium polymer
>battery that size too. I don't know for sure if you can pull that many
>amps from a lithium polymer battery, but I do know they are no where
>near as safe as SLA or NiCads.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <billdube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
At 01:17 AM 4/9/2006, you wrote:
>
> > 14 volts
> > 480 cranking amps
> > 8.8 amp-hours
> > 2.7 pounds (Yes, really just 2.7 pounds.)
> > 10 year warrantee (prorated)
> > Completely sealed battery
> > Safer than lead acid or NiCad
> > Built-in electronic monitoring system warns of over-voltage,
> > under-voltage, over heating, or internal battery fault.
>
>Bill,
>
>You didn't mention size or shape. I'm building an auto
>conversion, so for me the main issues are amp-hours,
>size, weight, and degradation. Not sure if degradation
>is the right term, but what I mean is - will the battery
>still have 8.8 amp-hours in 2 years when I need it?
>In 7 years?
>Also, a way to know exactly how much juice is left in
>the battery at any particular moment would be great
>for my application. It's as important as a fuel gauge
>when the alternator fails.
The internal electronics will tell you when you are near the
end of the capacity. You could test the capacity using that feature
during your annual, for example, to track the battery performance.
If you want a actual battery fuel gauge, it would be extra.
It isn't hard to do, but it requires a lot more electronic hardware.
You can buy one commercially for your present battery if you want to.
They are called a Link-10. Boats, RVs (the other kind), fork lifts,
and electric cars use them.
http://www.energyoutfitters.com/default.htm?http://www.energyoutfitters.com/products/p_m_electronics/xantrex_link10.shtm
They are pricey, but work very well. They are very
lightweight. I plan to install one in my RV (since I have an
electronic ignition and EFI.)
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BillDube(at)killacycle.com" <billdube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
Forget all you knew about batteries. These are not what you are familiar with.
They meet the specs and are safe.
Would you pay $475 for such a battery?
Bill Dube'
At 10:07 AM 4/9/2006, you wrote:
>
>Hmmm somehow asterixes sneaked in the correct URL is
>http://www.helihobby.com/videos/LithiumBattery.wmv
>
>Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
> >
> > Hi Bill,
> >
> > Sounds like Lithium Ion or Polymer to me. If it is, I would have
> extreme concerns as to what the safety measures would be insure no
> fire or explosion.
> >
> > Being heavy into RC with several LiPo powered electrics and
> helicopters, I can tell you these batteries are nowhere near safe.
> I only charge these batteries when I'm monitoring them.
> Additionally, I charge them in a deal called a "battery bunker"
> which is like a small SWAT team containment can in the event of
> over heating and/or explosion.
> >
> > I have had 2 friends have their vechicles burn to the ground
> while charging these batteries. They cannot handle ANY over
> charging at all. One exploded when only being charged at .5 its
> rated amperage. Normal charge is 1:1.
> >
> > I commend your ingenuity but this may be a tough sell. Maybe
> after you put one in your plane and fly it a few hundred hours they
> may gain some acceptance. In the mean time $475 equates to 7 Odyssey batteries.
> >
> > Darwin N. Barrie
> > Chandler AZ
> > RV-7 N717EE
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>--
>
>
>is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
BillDube(at)killacycle.com wrote:
> If it does everything I say it does, would you pay $475 for
> one? Yes or no? I'm not requesting a commitment or any money. Just
> tell me if you would honestly consider buying one if I prove they
> really are as good as I say they are.
No.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing conduit material |
Sherman ...
Yesterday I picked up 3 lengths of fluorescent light protective
polycarbonate tubes, 8' long, 1 1/4" OD at Menard's. $3.29 each I'm
placing two of these under the floor of an 8A to carry cable and wires.
They are clear plastic, very thin wall. Not installed yet, but I think they
can be slit, length wise, then squeezed together so as to fit through 3/4"
snap bushings. By simply overlapping the slit edges, then gluing the
overlap, the tube will have a stiff back to it, at the top to the tube.
Wires can exit the tube at any point through drilled holes with rubber
grommets. Of course drill before pulling wires. Glue the tube to the snap
bushings. 8' will get you from the wing spar center section to past the
rear baggage on the 8A. These may work in the wing, as well, by using a
telescope overlap to reach the wing tip. Spot with glue to firm up the
overlap.
My 2 cents ...
Jerry Grimmonpre'
>
> I found 3/4 inch 6061-T6 .058 wall tubing for $1.XX at foot. Would this
> be suitable for wing conduit material? Would this provide some electrical
> shielding?
>
> Sherman Butler
>
>
> .
>
>
> Sherman Butler
> RV-7a Empennage
> Idaho Falls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | NASM47196 (rivet specs) |
Apparently MIL-R-47196A (mil spec on rivet shop heads, etc.) has been
canceled and superseded by NASM47196. I have a copy of MIL-R-47196A that I
stole from Gil Alexander (http://www.rvproject.com/MIL-R-47196A_MI.pdf) but
I'm in search of a copy of NASM47196.
If anybody has a copy of NASM47196 that you are willing to share, can you
email it to me? (dan rvproject com)
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (858 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Fenstermacher <davidfenster(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NASM47196 (rivet specs) |
You know anything about this?
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> Apparently MIL-R-47196A (mil spec on rivet shop heads, etc.) has been
> canceled and superseded by NASM47196. I have a copy of MIL-R-47196A that I
> stole from Gil Alexander (http://www.rvproject.com/MIL-R-47196A_MI.pdf) but
> I'm in search of a copy of NASM47196.
>
> If anybody has a copy of NASM47196 that you are willing to share, can you
> email it to me? (dan rvproject com)
>
> Thanks,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (858 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
When I open this link, I get a text file and my puter
locks up. Anybody else have this problem?
Dave
--- gert wrote:
>
>
> Hmmm somehow asterixes sneaked in the correct URL is
>
> http://www.helihobby.com/videos/LithiumBattery.wmv
>
> Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Bill,
> >
> > Sounds like Lithium Ion or Polymer to me. If it
> is, I would have extreme concerns as to what the
> safety measures would be insure no fire or
> explosion.
> >
> > Being heavy into RC with several LiPo powered
> electrics and helicopters, I can tell you these
> batteries are nowhere near safe. I only charge these
> batteries when I'm monitoring them. Additionally, I
> charge them in a deal called a "battery bunker"
> which is like a small SWAT team containment can in
> the event of over heating and/or explosion.
> >
> > I have had 2 friends have their vechicles burn to
> the ground while charging these batteries. They
> cannot handle ANY over charging at all. One exploded
> when only being charged at .5 its rated amperage.
> Normal charge is 1:1.
> >
> > I commend your ingenuity but this may be a tough
> sell. Maybe after you put one in your plane and fly
> it a few hundred hours they may gain some
> acceptance. In the mean time $475 equates to 7
> Odyssey batteries.
> >
> > Darwin N. Barrie
> > Chandler AZ
> > RV-7 N717EE
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the
> amount of $500
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Trotter <ptrotter(at)acm.org> |
| Subject: | Re: NASM47196 (rivet specs) |
Dan,
I doubt that the document contents have changed. I think that they just
changed the name of the standards organization.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 10:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: NASM47196 (rivet specs)
>
> Apparently MIL-R-47196A (mil spec on rivet shop heads, etc.) has been
> canceled and superseded by NASM47196. I have a copy of MIL-R-47196A that
> I
> stole from Gil Alexander (http://www.rvproject.com/MIL-R-47196A_MI.pdf)
> but
> I'm in search of a copy of NASM47196.
>
> If anybody has a copy of NASM47196 that you are willing to share, can you
> email it to me? (dan rvproject com)
>
> Thanks,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (858 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | World's best airplane battery |
Same thing here. I had to pull the plug!
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Nellis
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 10:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: World's best airplane battery
When I open this link, I get a text file and my puter
locks up. Anybody else have this problem?
Dave
--- gert wrote:
>
>
> Hmmm somehow asterixes sneaked in the correct URL is
>
> http://www.helihobby.com/videos/LithiumBattery.wmv
>
> Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Bill,
> >
> > Sounds like Lithium Ion or Polymer to me. If it
> is, I would have extreme concerns as to what the
> safety measures would be insure no fire or
> explosion.
> >
> > Being heavy into RC with several LiPo powered
> electrics and helicopters, I can tell you these
> batteries are nowhere near safe. I only charge these
> batteries when I'm monitoring them. Additionally, I
> charge them in a deal called a "battery bunker"
> which is like a small SWAT team containment can in
> the event of over heating and/or explosion.
> >
> > I have had 2 friends have their vechicles burn to
> the ground while charging these batteries. They
> cannot handle ANY over charging at all. One exploded
> when only being charged at .5 its rated amperage.
> Normal charge is 1:1.
> >
> > I commend your ingenuity but this may be a tough
> sell. Maybe after you put one in your plane and fly
> it a few hundred hours they may gain some
> acceptance. In the mean time $475 equates to 7
> Odyssey batteries.
> >
> > Darwin N. Barrie
> > Chandler AZ
> > RV-7 N717EE
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the
> amount of $500
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NASM47196 (rivet specs) |
In a message dated 4/9/2006 7:45:55 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dan(at)rvproject.com writes:
Apparently MIL-R-47196A (mil spec on rivet shop heads, etc.) has been
canceled and superseded by NASM47196. I have a copy of MIL-R-47196A that I
stole from Gil Alexander (http://www.rvproject.com/MIL-R-47196A_MI.pdf) but
I'm in search of a copy of NASM47196.
If anybody has a copy of NASM47196 that you are willing to share, can you
email it to me?
==========================================
I deal with this stuff everyday and I don't like it
Sadly, when the military transitioned many of these specifications to the
private sector, they allowed the new custodian (NASM) to charge for electronic
or hard copies of them. I don't know if NASM can claim copyright
infringement if these get scanned and posted to a free website, but If anyone
knows the
story of why this was done in this day and age I would very much like to
know. These specs were developed with taxpayer dollars and I very much resent
their availability being restricted in this way.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 780hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flamini2 <flamini2(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Chicago area for sale |
*RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" >
What airport?
Jeff, It's at C56 the old Sanger Airport about 25nm South of MDW (Midway Chicago).
The airport was sold to Bult Corp. and will be closed 7/1/06 for new runway and
hangers
and the land is also being fought over by the third Chicago Airport people.
The registration is N405PP.
The owner, Paul Pressler is the builder and a true metal craftsman, you should
see his tools!
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Flamini" <flamini2(at)comcast.net <mailto:flamini2(at)comcast.net?subject=Re:%20RV-6%20Chicago%20area%20for%20sale&replyto=01a801c65be4$d89fa4d0$b055d946@Shemp>>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 9:03 PM
Subject: RV-6 Chicago area for sale
>
> For sale RV-6 tilt-up in Chicago area;
> Approx 300hrs TT
> 150hp not H2AD major OH at 0hrs
> Warnake wood prop
> Com, Transponder, GPS, Gyros, Intercom
> Perfect rivits, no bondo
> $50,000 firm
> You guys know the parts cost this much, you get 5 years labor for free!
> Call Paul at 708-534-3042 after 6pm
> see the photo section of;
> http://home.comcast.net/~flamini2/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--delay-5-SiteID-2735304.html
>*
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
| From: | "sonex293" <sonex293(at)nc.rr.com> |
Try opening in Internet Explorer or download the file. I had the same problem
in Mozilla Firefox.
-
Michael
truflite(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> When I open this link, I get a text file and my puter
> locks up. Anybody else have this problem?
>
> Dave
>
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27330#27330
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wires out in the wing tips |
In a message dated 3/31/06 8:31:51 AM Central Standard Time, jpl(at)showpage.org
writes:
> I haven't
> done anything about making a path for any wires that I may need out
> in the wing tips.
I used 5/8" CPVC water pipe through holes about 2" in front of the spar and
about 1" from the top skin, held in place by a bead of E-6000 adhesive (GOOP)
at the tip rib. This has worked out extremely well as it took all of maybe 1
minute to feed the wires out to the tips. Easy to add/remove wires later as
well. Another advantage is that the conduit can be easily slid into the wing at
final assembly instead of being in the way for riveting etc. If you have
already attached the ribs, you could make a simple jig keyed off of the large
holes in the rib or possibly the tooling holes to drill the conduit holes in the
same position. I drilled mine before assembly as shown here:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4868
Click on the foto for a better view.
Mark Phillips -6A N51PW - 295 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
You may recall I have reported having a VERY heavy left wing on my RV8A & was wondering
if a full degree of flap deflection was too much to try at once & how
to tell if the flaps are really in neutral trail position. So, today I flew
again with the 1 degree additional deflection cranked into the left flap. This
removed about half the heaviness. Now the situation is that with full right
roll trim and 15 gallons more fuel in the right tank than the left, the ailerons
are near neutral. So, there is still some work to do.
To decide to lower the left flap rather than raise the right, I measured the angle
between the wing chord line and the top surface of the flap on the plane and
on the wing template drawing provided by Vans. From the drawing, neutral trail
is with the flap top surface 10 degrees positive to the chord, the wing bottom
surface 7 degrees negative to the chord. Armed with this info, I used my
digital level and Vans incidence setting procedure to find that the wing chord
was at 4.6 degrees up as the plane sits on the gear. The right flap was at
14.6 degrees when full up and the left flap at 13.6 degrees so I lowered the
left flap into neutral trail.
Thanks for all the responses. I have the info on heavy wings from Van's web site
and am working through the problem.
Dave Reel - RV8A 4.5 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Blake <jblake43(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: would like to buy |
Jim Blake wrote:
>
>
>>> I have several items for trade or sale. I will be at Lakeland on Thursday
or Friday and will bring any of the items if you have interest. Please contact
me at jblake43(at)bellsouth.net or 954-658-3035. Jim Blake
>>>
>>>
> 1- engine mount with gear legs for RV-6 , new. $500.00
> 1- Cato 68 x 73 prop with spinner, backplate and bolts , used, from
> RV-6 150hp. $450.00
> 1- Stebra 68 x 72 prop with spinner, backplate and bolts, used, from
> RV-6 150hp. $350.00
> 2- 4" prop spacers, spool type, for above props. $100.00 and $75.00
>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> If you have up graded your panel and have Van's gauges for sale or trade please
contact me at jblake43(at)bellsouth.net.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Blake <jblake43(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: would like to buy |
>
>> Please pardon my earlier email. It was my intent to only send the following:
>> If you have up graded your panel and have Van's gauges for sale or trade please
contact me at jblake43(at)bellsouth.net.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS: Bendix/King KT-79 digital transponder |
| From: | "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com> |
For sale: Bendix King KT-79 digital, solid state transponder. High serial number,
and cosmetically at least 9/10. Comes with mounting tray, coax pigtail, and
installation manual. Connector is not included.
If you were thinking about a Garmin 320, this would be a nice upgrade to a digital
unit (and you save some money!!)
Features:
Digital, flat-pack ATC transponder
Simultaneous display of encoded altitude and ATC code
Push button selection of VFR code
Solid-state
250 watts peak nominal
Operates from 11 to 33 Volts
See more info about this model at:
http://www.seaerospace.com/king/kt79.htm
Photos of actual unit at:
http://www.vitez.net/kt79/
Price: $1095 + s/h
CONUS buyers only. Sold as-is.
Call me at 704-724-7305 or email vitez(at)carolina.rr.com with any questions.
Thanks!
Radomir
--------
RV-7A
N777TY (res)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27521#27521
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: P-MagsP-Mags |
I have the Emag and Pmag set up. 55 hours now. My Pmag cut off point is 680 rpm.
Don't know where you get the 900 rpm figure.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
Bill, sign me up! For several.
John Huft
one flying all electric airplane, and another under construction.
BillDube(at)killacycle.com wrote:
>
> I am considering producing state-of-the art, very lightweight, ultra
>long life, starting batteries for experimental aircraft. They won't
>be cheap to make, however. I'd like to get some feedback as to the
>market for these before I put a big effort into this.
>
> Here are the specs:
>
>14 volts
>480 cranking amps
>8.8 amp-hours
>2.7 pounds (Yes, really just 2.7 pounds.)
>10 year warrantee (prorated)
>Completely sealed battery
>Safer than lead acid or NiCad
>Built-in electronic monitoring system warns of over-voltage,
>under-voltage, over heating, or internal battery fault.
>
> That is all the good news. The downside is that they will cost about
>$475. I'm not sure how many folks would want a 10 year battery (at
>least) that weighs about 1/3 as much as an "ordinary" battery, but
>costs four times as much.
>
> The specs above are real. I have personally tested these batteries
>and they do, indeed, perform this well, so that is not an issue. I
>know I can make these. I'm going to make one for myself. The question
>is, will folks buy them if I more of them?
>
> Let me know if you think you would be interested in such a high-tech
>battery at this cost.
>
> Bill Dube'
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Clark" <jclarkmail(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Congrats to Mark at the "Possum Works"!!! |
Mucho CONGRATS (!!!) Mark.
* BEST METAL*
N51PW 2004 PHILLIPS/VANS RV-6A MARK A. PHILLIPS
COLUMBIA, TN 38401
And in the spirit of th e"Possum Works" vernacular ....
I jes **KNEW** yewd be gitt'n sup 'in!
James
... mighty proud to have had you flying "off my wing"
--
This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
james(at)nextupventures.com .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
| Subject: | Electronic ignition conversion |
Fellow Listers:
I am considering converting my RV-4 from a magneto ignition system to a dual
Lightspeed EI system. Do any of you know whether making this conversion is
considered a major airframe change which would require an additional flight
test period (I think it is 5 hours on my airworthiness certificate, which I
do not have with me at the moment).
Thanks
Doug Weiler
RV-5, N722DW, 280 hours TT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic ignition conversion |
On 11 Apr 2006, at 19:22, Doug Weiler wrote:
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I am considering converting my RV-4 from a magneto ignition system
> to a dual
> Lightspeed EI system. Do any of you know whether making this
> conversion is
> considered a major airframe change which would require an
> additional flight
> test period (I think it is 5 hours on my airworthiness certificate,
> which I
> do not have with me at the moment).
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> RV-5, N722DW, 280 hours TT
>
>
Major and minor mods are defined in FAR 21.93:
Sec. 21.93
Classification of changes in type design.
(a) In addition to changes in type design specified in paragraph (b)
of this section, changes in type design are classified as minor and
major. A "minor change" is one that has no appreciable effect on the
weight, balance, structural strength, reliability, operational
characteristics, or other characteristics affecting the airworthiness
of the product. All other changes are "major changes" (except as
provided in paragraph (b) of this section).
The change in ignition system would be a major mod in the type-
certificated world in which I work. No question about it.
I think a simple way to think about it is to ask yourself the
following question: If this mod is not done correctly, could it
affect safety?
If the answer is yes, then you should put the aircraft back into the
flight test phase, and do some proper testing to confirm everything
is working properly.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jay pearlman <rv6jp(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
What is the cycle lifetime - full discharge to full charge?
jp
Bill, sign me up! For several.
John Huft
one flying all electric airplane, and another under construction.
BillDube(at)killacycle.com wrote:
>
> I am considering producing state-of-the art, very lightweight, ultra
>long life, starting batteries for experimental aircraft. They won't
>be cheap to make, however. I'd like to get some feedback as to the
>market for these before I put a big effort into this.
>
> Here are the specs:
>
>14 volts
>480 cranking amps
>8.8 amp-hours
>2.7 pounds (Yes, really just 2.7 pounds.)
>10 year warrantee (prorated)
>Completely sealed battery
>Safer than lead acid or NiCad
>Built-in electronic monitoring system warns of over-voltage,
>under-voltage, over heating, or internal battery fault.
>
> That is all the good news. The downside is that they will cost about
>$475. I'm not sure how many folks would want a 10 year battery (at
>least) that weighs about 1/3 as much as an "ordinary" battery, but
>costs four times as much.
>
> The specs above are real. I have personally tested these batteries
>and they do, indeed, perform this well, so that is not an issue. I
>know I can make these. I'm going to make one for myself. The question
>is, will folks buy them if I more of them?
>
> Let me know if you think you would be interested in such a high-tech
>battery at this cost.
>
> Bill Dube'
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <william.p.dube(at)noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: World's best airplane battery |
The cycle life is discharge rate dependent. It is at least 1000 100% DOD
cycles for 10C discharge. For 1 C discharge, it is over 2000 cycles.
This is retaining 80% capacity. If 50% capacity is acceptable, the cycle
life is much much longer.
Bill D.
jay pearlman wrote:
>
>What is the cycle lifetime - full discharge to full charge?
> jp
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: P-MagsP-Mags |
>From actual testing on the ground, of course. Reproducible with 100% repeatability,
and confirmed by lots of other users. You got a good one ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Darwin N. Barrie <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: P-MagsP-Mags
I have the Emag and Pmag set up. 55 hours now. My Pmag cut off point is 680 rpm.
Don't know where you get the 900 rpm figure.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Electronic ignition conversion |
In this case it is considered a major change and requires a minimum of five
hours of flight testing. Check your aircraft's operating limitations to be
sure to do exactly what it says to do for a major change.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Electronic ignition conversion
>Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 18:22:21 -0500
>
>
>Fellow Listers:
>
>I am considering converting my RV-4 from a magneto ignition system to a
>dual
>Lightspeed EI system. Do any of you know whether making this conversion is
>considered a major airframe change which would require an additional flight
>test period (I think it is 5 hours on my airworthiness certificate, which I
>do not have with me at the moment).
>
>Thanks
>
>Doug Weiler
>RV-5, N722DW, 280 hours TT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: P-Mags P-Mags |
On 12 Apr 2006, at 10:34, Darrell Reiley wrote:
>
>
> I would send the P-Mags back to the manufacture for a 100% full
> replacement as the 900 rpm range is unacceptable!
>
Does it really matter if the P-Mag can't handle an electrical power
loss at idle on the ground?
What is idle rpm in flight at typical airspeeds? What would the
operational consequences be to having to keep the engine at 1,000 rpm
minimum in flight, if the electrical system had failed?
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Congrats to Mark at the |
Way to go Mark, first the Lindy award and now this!!!! It just keeps
getting better doesn't it. So what ya gona do for an encore?
Marty
Subject: Congrats to Mark at the "Possum Works"!!!
Mucho CONGRATS (!!!) Mark.
* BEST METAL*
N51PW 2004 PHILLIPS/VANS RV-6A MARK A. PHILLIPS
COLUMBIA, TN 38401
And in the spirit of th e"Possum Works" vernacular ....
I jes **KNEW** yewd be gitt'n sup 'in!
James
... mighty proud to have had you flying "off my wing"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Congrats to Mark at the |
In a message dated 04/12/2006 7:27:42 PM Central Standard Time,
emrath(at)comcast.net writes:
So what ya gona do for an encore?
>>>>>
Give ya a couple of Tech Counselor inspections then get a picture of YOUR
plane departing MQY!!!
Let me know when yer ready....
THANKS!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_Delsol?= <michele.delsol(at)microsigma.fr> |
PMag minimum RPM has been discussed in the past. The consensus seems to have
been that the whirlwind effect would maintain the propeller spinning above
700 RPM, which means that the PMags should put out power. Now, if the PMag
is not generating its own power above 700 RPM then it is not up to specs.
This is another issue which should definitely be taken up with eMagair and
is probably a case by case issue.
Michele - RV8 Fuselage - going the dual PMag route.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Sent: jeudi 13 avril 2006 00:07
Subject: Re: RV-List: P-Mags P-Mags
On 12 Apr 2006, at 10:34, Darrell Reiley wrote:
>
>
> I would send the P-Mags back to the manufacture for a 100% full
> replacement as the 900 rpm range is unacceptable!
>
Does it really matter if the P-Mag can't handle an electrical power
loss at idle on the ground?
What is idle rpm in flight at typical airspeeds? What would the
operational consequences be to having to keep the engine at 1,000 rpm
minimum in flight, if the electrical system had failed?
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Barrow" <bobbarrow10(at)hotmail.com> |
On their website EMAG is vague about the RPM required for providing
sufficient power to run the EI. For instance on the PMAG page they say:
"produces its own power at 700 RPM and above". However on the FAQ page they
say: "will operate at 700 to 800 RPM".
Personally I'd be getting worried if it took 900 RPM to keep the EI
operating because that might be getting very close to the edge if you pulled
the throttle fully at slow speed on final. If there was cessation of ship's
power for any reason then the engine could quit...and it would not start
again. At altitude you might be able to push the nose over and get the RPMs
up but at lower levels this would not be an option.
I'm inclined to agree with Michele and Darrell on this one....900 RPM is
over EMAGs specifications and may produce a quite slender safety margin (if
any at all).
>From: Michle Delsol <michele.delsol(at)microsigma.fr>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: P-Mags P-Mags
>Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 07:16:54 +0200
>
>
>
>PMag minimum RPM has been discussed in the past. The consensus seems to
>have
>been that the whirlwind effect would maintain the propeller spinning above
>700 RPM, which means that the PMags should put out power. Now, if the PMag
>is not generating its own power above 700 RPM then it is not up to specs.
>This is another issue which should definitely be taken up with eMagair and
>is probably a case by case issue.
>
>Michele - RV8 Fuselage - going the dual PMag route.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
>Sent: jeudi 13 avril 2006 00:07
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: P-Mags P-Mags
>
>
>On 12 Apr 2006, at 10:34, Darrell Reiley wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I would send the P-Mags back to the manufacture for a 100% full
> > replacement as the 900 rpm range is unacceptable!
> >
>
>Does it really matter if the P-Mag can't handle an electrical power
>loss at idle on the ground?
>
>What is idle rpm in flight at typical airspeeds? What would the
>operational consequences be to having to keep the engine at 1,000 rpm
>minimum in flight, if the electrical system had failed?
>
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
Test drive new cars from the comfort of your desk at carpoint.com.au
http://secure-au.imrworldwide.com/cgi-bin/a/ci_450304/et_2/cg_801459/pi_1004813/ai_833884
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_Delsol?= <michele.delsol(at)microsigma.fr> |
One solution I am considering is to have a small back up rechargeable
battery just for the PMags - sort of a redundant electrical system which
would automatically turn on if current feeding the PMag were to fail.
Warning lights would tell me if the redundant system was low voltage wise,
another light would light up if the PMags were not getting their power form
the main electrical system. This should pretty well take care of just about
all risks of not getting power into the PMag.
Michle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Barrow
Sent: jeudi 13 avril 2006 10:52
Subject: RE: RV-List: P-Mags P-Mags
On their website EMAG is vague about the RPM required for providing
sufficient power to run the EI. For instance on the PMAG page they say:
"produces its own power at 700 RPM and above". However on the FAQ page they
say: "will operate at 700 to 800 RPM".
Personally I'd be getting worried if it took 900 RPM to keep the EI
operating because that might be getting very close to the edge if you pulled
the throttle fully at slow speed on final. If there was cessation of ship's
power for any reason then the engine could quit...and it would not start
again. At altitude you might be able to push the nose over and get the RPMs
up but at lower levels this would not be an option.
I'm inclined to agree with Michele and Darrell on this one....900 RPM is
over EMAGs specifications and may produce a quite slender safety margin (if
any at all).
>From: Michle Delsol <michele.delsol(at)microsigma.fr>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: P-Mags P-Mags
>Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 07:16:54 +0200
>
>
>
>PMag minimum RPM has been discussed in the past. The consensus seems to
>have
>been that the whirlwind effect would maintain the propeller spinning above
>700 RPM, which means that the PMags should put out power. Now, if the PMag
>is not generating its own power above 700 RPM then it is not up to specs.
>This is another issue which should definitely be taken up with eMagair and
>is probably a case by case issue.
>
>Michele - RV8 Fuselage - going the dual PMag route.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
>Sent: jeudi 13 avril 2006 00:07
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: P-Mags P-Mags
>
>
>On 12 Apr 2006, at 10:34, Darrell Reiley wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I would send the P-Mags back to the manufacture for a 100% full
> > replacement as the 900 rpm range is unacceptable!
> >
>
>Does it really matter if the P-Mag can't handle an electrical power
>loss at idle on the ground?
>
>What is idle rpm in flight at typical airspeeds? What would the
>operational consequences be to having to keep the engine at 1,000 rpm
>minimum in flight, if the electrical system had failed?
>
>
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
Test drive new cars from the comfort of your desk at carpoint.com.au
http://secure-au.imrworldwide.com/cgi-bin/a/ci_450304/et_2/cg_801459/pi_1004
813/ai_833884
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
If that becomes a safety issue, I intend to add to my pre-landing check
list: "Ignition" to battery", "boost pump on" ect. You start it that
way and leave it on until I take the active. Another way would be to tie
it to the boost pump switch. That way, any time you are on the ground or
getting ready to land, boost pump on also turns on the battery feed to
the "P" mags. BTW, I have two "P" ignitions units on my engine. I have
not flown yet but later this year. Now that it is noted, I may wire it
so either way I set the switches, I will have battery power to the "P"
ign. unit. That way I won't have to "add" to do something else. Just
trying to follow the KISS principal.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Is An RV Hard To Fly? |
DO NOT ARCHINE
I have always been able to get my bi-annual rides in my own RV6A, so instead of
pushing a clunky 172 around, I was always able to "instruct" the instructor
in how an airplane should work. They were always impressed (by the airplane,
not necessarily my flying skills.)
If an instructor won't use my plane, I won't "use" him for the bi-annual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
I've had a left yaw in the amount of one ball width but have now corrected it.
For those of you that might also encounter this problem and want to know how
much of a trim tab it takes to correct this much yaw, the answer is a wedge 12
inches long, 1/4 inch high at the trailing edge, and 1 1/2 inches to it's 0 height
knife edged leading edge. I placed it half way up the rudder. For now
this has just been duct taped in place.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arnold de Brie" <Arnold(at)paperchip.nl> |
| Subject: | FW: RV7 cushion foam |
_____
From: Arnold de Brie [mailto:Arnold(at)paperchip.nl]
Sent: donderdag 13 april 2006 16:58
Subject: RV7 cushion foam
Hello
I have a set of Van's RV 7 foam for sale.
It is already at Classic Aero Designs
If someone is interested, contact me off-line
Arnold de Brie
arnold(at)paperchip.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Is An RV Hard To Fly? |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Interesting response to your RV. In these parts, an RV will always get a second
look and prompt some questions at the airports I visit (in central & south Texas).
I can appreciate the renters. Used to be one myself. Besides, wouldn't
have many "targets" without them!! ;)
Have heard some say they wouldn't fly in a "homemade" plane, but they are obviously
generalizing. But - a man's gotta know his limitations. In years (way)
past, most were scratch built and of lower quality (IMO). Have passed on instructing
in 2 planes, and consider myself a pretty competent homemade plane pilot/instructor.
Reason for keeping a dead-serious wary eye happened at my old home field where
a cfi was giving transition training to a new home built plane owner. Both ended
up dead (IMO) because the plane was underpowered/heavily loaded, runway too
short and the cfi wasn't familiar enough with the plane. I also believe it
may have been an instance where the very strong, large student overpowered a comparably
much smaller cfi.
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 010601X01049&key=1
I can appreciate someone having and sticking to their limitations.
2 cents
Bryan Jones -8, CFII/MEI
Houston
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28353#28353
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
I thought I had this problem too at one time. I realigned my landing leg
fairings just a wee bit and the need for the rudder tab went away. I had it
a little out of being exactly correct to start with. Your mileage may vary.
Larry in Indiana, RV7 95 hours.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 10:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder trim
>
> I've had a left yaw in the amount of one ball width but have now corrected
> it. For those of you that might also encounter this problem and want to
> know how much of a trim tab it takes to correct this much yaw, the answer
> is a wedge 12 inches long, 1/4 inch high at the trailing edge, and 1 1/2
> inches to it's 0 height knife edged leading edge. I placed it half way up
> the rudder. For now this has just been duct taped in place.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Fellow Rver's
Very pleased to report the first flight of RV6A serial number 25171 on Wednesday,
April 12, 2006. Don Stewart was at the controls. Recent flights show 173mph
true airspeed with an O320-E2D, Catto three blade, and no gear or wheel fairings.
Empty weight came in at 1016lbs with no paint or interior.
Panel includes Dynon EFIS, RMI engine monitor, Lowrance Airmap 1000 panel mounted,
Icom A200 com, Narco AT150 transponder, PMA4000 audio panel, Navaid wingleveler,
LRI. Night VFR.
This has been a very pleasurable journey over 8.5 years of building. Special thanks
go to Don Stewart, Everett Anderson, Garry Anderson, Ron Busch and all the
other airport rats in Menominee Michigan. Also big thanks to my wife for understanding
that this has been a long time dream of mine.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Flying!
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Excellent! Maybe I'll see you around MI someday. My wife's from around there.
Fly a safe Phase 1.
Lucky
N188R
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
>
> Fellow Rver's
>
> Very pleased to report the first flight of RV6A serial number 25171 on
> Wednesday, April 12, 2006. Don Stewart was at the controls. Recent flights
> show 173mph true airspeed with an O320-E2D, Catto three blade, and no gear or
> wheel fairings. Empty weight came in at 1016lbs with no paint or interior.
>
> Panel includes Dynon EFIS, RMI engine monitor, Lowrance Airmap 1000 panel
> mounted, Icom A200 com, Narco AT150 transponder, PMA4000 audio panel, Navaid
> wingleveler, LRI. Night VFR.
>
> This has been a very pleasurable journey over 8.5 years of building. Special
> thanks go to Don Stewart, Everett Anderson, Garry Anderson, Ron Busch and all
> the other airport rats in Menominee Michigan. Also big thanks to my wife for
> understanding that this has been a long time dream of mine.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P
> Flying!
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Excellent! Maybe I'll see you around MI someday. My wife's from around there.
Fly a safe Phase 1.
Lucky
N188R
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Jeff Orear" jorear(at)new.rr.com
-- RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear"
Fellow Rver's
Very pleased to report the first flight of RV6A serial number 25171 on
Wednesday, April 12, 2006. Don Stewart was at the controls. Recent flights
show 173mph true airspeed with an O320-E2D, Catto three blade, and no gear or
wheel fairings. Empty weight came in at 1016lbs with no paint or interior.
Panel includes Dynon EFIS, RMI engine monitor, Lowrance Airmap 1000 panel
mounted, Icom A200 com, Narco AT150 transponder, PMA4000 audio panel, Navaid
wingleveler, LRI. Night VFR.
This has been a very pleasurable journey over 8.5 years of building. Special
thanks go to Don Stewart, Evere
tt And
erson, Garry Anderson, Ron Busch and all
the other airport rats in Menominee Michigan. Also big thanks to my wife for
understanding that this has been a long time dream of mine.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Flying!
Peshtigo, WI
wiki.m
atronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Is an RV Hard To Fly ? |
Jerry2Dt from rainy Oregon...
To archive this you would actually have to also remove the D.N.A.-Line at the bottom
of the original post!
Subject: RV-List: Re: Is an RV Hard To Fly ?
What a well written and thought out reflection! Therefore... Please do archive!
Jerry from rainy Oregon...
From: "lyle" <lyleedda(at)telus.net>
Subject: RV-List: Is an RV Hard To Fly ?
Well, just the opposite, I have found.
When I was abuilding my RV, I used to sponge up any magazine stories and
pictures
about RVs ever since RV6
Ol' Blue came on line. Even pilot reports in ( egad ) ! English mags.
After only a half hour checkout, I was getting along just fine with
my RV albeit with a couple of less than text book landings.
The other day though, I had to get checked out in a 172 and this really
underlined
what a sweet bird the RV really is.
I had never before, ever, been on final with only 300 feet altitude left
and holding 2200 rpm in a STRONG wind to get down.
See, the instructor wanted those big barn door flaps hanging out full
travel each and every time we went around so it felt like somebody had thrown
the anchor out and we were two miles out with little ground speed and with me
not wanting to sink below the 65 mph he liked to see on final, it was a lot
of work, going round and round, smokin' ( for a 172 ) downwind, crabbing on
base,
and in low gear on final, wings going this way and that, and naturally, if
the attitude was not just so, UP we would float and plop now and then as only
about two landings were greasers without any noises......to go around again,
she wanted to run for the right edge of the runway and lift off was good in
that
wind, although we did get some good closeup looks at cars and drivers on the
way.
Old habits die hard and climbing at 100 which is good for an RV only
gets me a couple of hundred of climb in the 172 until instructor fellow
suggests
pulling nose higher.
I did lots of things wrong....turning too soon , bank too much, fly over
houses, try to slow down too soon, damn flaps...
An Rv does all the good things you expect it to do WHEN you want to do
them.....adjusting to a 172 on a very turbulent day was not a good start.
I don't think I was a good ambassador for grey haired guys. He did not think
today was a good day for me to do a few solo circuits.....maybe next time..
Funny thing I notice about the rental guys is that they don't ask anything
about RVs. Don't even walk over on the ramp to gee whiz when an RV is
parked....I
think the office types warn them off us free spirit homebuilt people...no
use in hanging with the wrong crowd....
Nowadays the rental outfits check you out very thoroughly...licence,
medical, currency
slip, RADIO LICENCE, can you believe it ?...photocopy of logbook, drivers
licence, passport, certificate of circumcision...on and on...questions about
what types you have flown..when...but when RV comes up, it is almost like it
doesn't count...ain't professional i guess.
Not one has ever asked about the speeds, landings, crosswind behaviour,
climbout......FUN
FACTOR .....or asked to sit in one.....
If I was in my twenties and hanging around the ramp when something different
came in, I would be there like a shot, but then by this time, I was probably
affected by all those times I purposely stood in the slipstream of all those
radial engines when they burped to life and cleared their throats of oil
smoke and gas and a bit of ramp dust.
Mind you, I do like a 172 or almost anything that flies and won't scare you
( like a Seawind ), or that old Pietenpol that used to be here locally, the
one with grass up to her legs, and the big honkin Kinner that looked like she
would like to play lawn dart. That one I would never even want to sit in
especially
when the pal I knew told me he only flies " the old whore " once in a
while for the owner who had very little liking to do so himself.
I ain't real picky..flyin' is flyin' and if it takes longer to get there,
then
I can most likely take time to map read since I never did have a wing leveler
in the RV, and map reading had to be done quickly...ain't it all a hoot
?.....sure
beats bingo !
Old Grey,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | WTB: Set of good Magneto's |
Dear valued Listers,
(specifically the one's that converted to dual Electronic Ignition's),
I am looking for a set of either brand new-, or low time mags for sale (Slick or
Bendix)?
So, if anyone has a set at a reasonable price, then please let me know, preferably
offline.
Thanks, Konrad
klwerner(at)comcast.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | firewall eyeball pass through hole |
There are 2 types of firewall eyeball pass thru for control cables. One
mounts with 6 small screws, the other uses just the single large hole.
Can some one tell me what size hole the latter type requires? Van's web
page says 1.115", but that's such an odd size I suspect it's a misprint.
If not, what did you use the make the hole? How much over size can the
hole be and still be usable?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall eyeball pass through hole |
> There are 2 types of firewall eyeball pass thru for control cables. One
> mounts with 6 small screws, the other uses just the single large hole.
> Can some one tell me what size hole the latter type requires? Van's web
> page says 1.115", but that's such an odd size I suspect it's a misprint.
> If not, what did you use the make the hole? How much over size can the
> hole be and still be usable?
Tom,
It is an odd size, but it matches up with a standard electrician's
conduit punch. I've included some of the sizes I could easily
find.
* 3/4" Conduit Punch, Hole Size: 1.115"
* 1" Conduit Punch, Hole Size: 1.362"
* 1-1/4" Conduit Die: Hole Size: 1.701"
* 1-1/2" Conduit Die:, Hole Size: 1.951"
* 2" Conduit Punch: Size: 2-3/8 2.416"
You can find these on eBay, or try to borrow one. They are
kind of expensive.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall eyeball pass through hole |
Tom,
I got some of these coming - I'll let you know next weekend...after they
arrive and are installed......
Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: firewall eyeball pass through hole
>
> There are 2 types of firewall eyeball pass thru for control cables. One
> mounts with 6 small screws, the other uses just the single large hole.
> Can some one tell me what size hole the latter type requires? Van's web
> page says 1.115", but that's such an odd size I suspect it's a misprint.
> If not, what did you use the make the hole? How much over size can the
> hole be and still be usable?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Patterson" <kbob(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV 1st flight |
Congrats Jeff!
Now you know what it takes to build a 'classic' RV.
Not one of those snap together prepunched units ;-)
Now the fun begins - learning how to maintain and fly an RV.
Good luck in Phase one!
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A N716K
PHX, AZ
39.2 hours (0.8 hours from Phase 2)
>From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
>Subject: RV-List: First flight
>
>
>Fellow Rver's
>
>Very pleased to report the first flight of RV6A serial number
>25171 on Wednesday, April 12, 2006. Don Stewart was at the
>controls. Recent flights show 173mph true airspeed with an
>O320-E2D, Catto three blade, and no gear or wheel fairings.
>Empty weight came in at 1016lbs with no paint or interior.
>
>Panel includes Dynon EFIS, RMI engine monitor, Lowrance Airmap
>1000 panel mounted, Icom A200 com, Narco AT150 transponder,
>PMA4000 audio panel, Navaid wingleveler, LRI. Night VFR.
>
>This has been a very pleasurable journey over 8.5 years of
>building. Special thanks go to Don Stewart, Everett Anderson,
>Garry Anderson, Ron Busch and all the other airport rats in
>Menominee Michigan. Also big thanks to my wife for
>understanding that this has been a long time dream of mine.
>
>Regards,
>
>Jeff Orear
>RV6A N782P
>Flying!
>Peshtigo, WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Jeff,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: First flight
>Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 12:47:19 -0500
>
>
>Fellow Rver's
>
>Very pleased to report the first flight of RV6A serial number 25171 on
>Wednesday, April 12, 2006.
>
>Jeff Orear
>RV6A N782P
>Flying!
>Peshtigo, WI
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall eyeball pass through hole |
Mickey:
I was hoping to hear an answer like that, thanks. We've got lots of
those at work. I can probably borrow one for a weekend.
Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
>
>
>>There are 2 types of firewall eyeball pass thru for control cables. One
>>mounts with 6 small screws, the other uses just the single large hole.
>>Can some one tell me what size hole the latter type requires? Van's web
>>page says 1.115", but that's such an odd size I suspect it's a misprint.
>>If not, what did you use the make the hole? How much over size can the
>>hole be and still be usable?
>>
>>
>
>Tom,
>
>It is an odd size, but it matches up with a standard electrician's
>conduit punch. I've included some of the sizes I could easily
>find.
>
>Mickey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
On Apr 14, 2006, at 12:47 PM, Jeff Orear wrote:
>
> Fellow Rver's
>
> Very pleased to report the first flight of RV6A serial number 25171
> on Wednesday, April 12, 2006. Don Stewart was at the controls.
> Recent flights show 173mph true airspeed with an O320-E2D, Catto
> three blade, and no gear or wheel fairings. Empty weight came in
> at 1016lbs with no paint or interior.
>
Jeff, this is welcome news!
Fly safe and have fun.
I have a pretty good handle on the performance flight testing if you
want advice or help running numbers, but the definitive source is
Kevin Horton's site.
I expect a visit in 40 hours or so, I'll buy the ribs (I'll even buy
the beer this time).
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: firewall eyeball pass through hole |
| From: | "Jekyll" <rcitjh(at)aol.com> |
Per the instructions in the the TTP-125 eyeball from Vans: Punch a hole with a
thin wall 3/4 conduit punch (1.115).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28582#28582
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Mounting Lasar unit |
Folks,
I'm getting ready to put my Lasar computer on the firewall (where I've seen them
before in pictures). for those of you that have this ignition system, are you
putting some backing plates to spread the load out - or just nutplating it
in?
Thanks,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall eyeball pass through hole |
Tom,
Mine came in today's mail - and they say 1.115"!
Now I gotta figure out how to make the hole too!
Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: firewall eyeball pass through hole
>
> There are 2 types of firewall eyeball pass thru for control cables. One
> mounts with 6 small screws, the other uses just the single large hole.
> Can some one tell me what size hole the latter type requires? Van's web
> page says 1.115", but that's such an odd size I suspect it's a misprint.
> If not, what did you use the make the hole? How much over size can the
> hole be and still be usable?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Loaded RV-4 For Sale |
| From: | "B25Flyer" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
All,
I finally succummed to Rocket Fever and bought Mark Fredrick's Rocket, Ole' 84.
The net result is, I have an exceptional example of an RV-4 for sale.
1994 160 C/S 850 Snew AF & Eng Air Flow Perf, Christen Inv Oil, Inv Fuel, 1- Lightspeed,
1 Mag, Dynon D-10, KX155 w/GS, Rnav Star 5000 GPS, Terra digital X-ponder,
Navaid, AlTrak, Infinity stick grip, etc etc etc.....
I have flown this airplane 550 hours in 3 years all over the country in all sorts
of weather. Solo, it will run 170 kts TAS down low and 152 kts at 17,000 ft
on 5.2 gph. Almost 30 NMPG!!!!
The builder was a machinist and it shows. It took me a full year to get it away
from him. I kept looking at other airplanes and, if you have done that, you
know that good airplanes are very hard to find.
If you want to haggle the price is $75,000. If you want to buy the airplane it
is $65,000. It is worth that. The bonus is, if you buy it, I promise I will
never pass you in the Rocket. The rest of you are fair game, Check Six!!!!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
641-425-5432
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28716#28716
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/66mn_158.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Clark" <jclarkmail(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Loaded RV-4 For Sale |
Congrats Doug!!
I spoke to Mark at SnF and he told me you had "done the deed".
The skies of Iowa will be even safer now. :-)
James
On 4/16/06, B25Flyer wrote:
>
>
> All,
>
> I finally succummed to Rocket Fever and bought Mark Fredrick's Rocket,
> Ole' 84. The net result is, I have an exceptional example of an RV-4 for
> sale.
>
> 1994 160 C/S 850 Snew AF & Eng Air Flow Perf, Christen Inv Oil, Inv Fuel,
> 1- Lightspeed, 1 Mag, Dynon D-10, KX155 w/GS, Rnav Star 5000 GPS, Terra
> digital X-ponder, Navaid, AlTrak, Infinity stick grip, etc etc etc.....
>
> I have flown this airplane 550 hours in 3 years all over the country in
> all sorts of weather. Solo, it will run 170 kts TAS down low and 152 kts at
> 17,000 ft on 5.2 gph. Almost 30 NMPG!!!!
>
> The builder was a machinist and it shows. It took me a full year to get
> it away from him. I kept looking at other airplanes and, if you have done
> that, you know that good airplanes are very hard to find.
>
> If you want to haggle the price is $75,000. If you want to buy the
> airplane it is $65,000. It is worth that. The bonus is, if you buy it, I
> promise I will never pass you in the Rocket. The rest of you are fair game,
> Check Six!!!!
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> dougr(at)petroblend.com
> 641-425-5432
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D28716#28716
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/66mn_158.jpg
>
>
--
This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
james(at)nextupventures.com .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Lasar unit |
Ralph,
I mounted my Lasar computer, centered on the firewall near the top with no backing
plate and it works great. I did use some over size washers on the back side.
By the way I like the system a lot, always starts easy, back-up mags and no
extra batteries needed.
Rich Crosley
RV-8, N948RC, 150 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Lasar unit |
Ralph,
I installed my LASAR black box on the right side (sort of behind cylinder
#3) and positioned it so that one of the mounting bolts went thru the
diagonal firewall angle brace. This makes for nice ridget mounting. It also
made for a neat clean hook up for the MAP line from cyl. #3.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: < Re: Is an RV Hard to Fly |
Oh, the good old days !!
My first BFR after my RV-4 was finished was done in the new RV-4 , with the
instructor in back with throttle quadrant and stick.
The second time he said," They say I have to fly with you but they don't say
how. YOU get in the back" !! He was a professional air show performer ,
so you know how that went - I got instruction !!
Love the RV-4
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Wood" <brywd(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I too had a heavy wing on my 9A and went through all kinds of efforts to solve
it. Like you I started with the flaps and it was not the answer! In order to
get anywhere near the point of balancing the control force out I had turned the
rod end bearings 10 full turns making a flap that drooped noticably more down
than the other. The nines flaps are much bigger than the eights and should
have more effect, but not enough to fix anything.
Next I tried off setting the ailerons. On the first attempt it didn't work because
the ailerons just return to trail and the stick is leaned over a little bit.
But then the idea hit of only adjusting one aileron and this did fix the
problem if only in a draggy way. My thought was like this, whether it is real
or not. Again this adjustment did fix the heavy wing. Think of the bell crank
as a cam that is off set with the aileron moving up having close to twice the
travel as the opposite aileron moving down or close to twice the leverage.
With this in mind I adjusted the aileron on the light wing down in 1/2 turn increments
on the rod end bearing and test flew in between. This worked by deflecting
the heavy side aileron down slightly in flight and getting rid of the
heavy wing. The result was an aileron that was down in flight though. What I
found was that if you look at the heavy wing in flight before adjusting this
way you can see how much you are deflecting the aileron down to fly level. Use
this as a guage when setting the opposite aileron down. After adjusting it
down return the light side up to neutral and clamp it. At this point look at
the heavy side and see if the aileron is deflected down the amount or close to
it that you saw in flight.
Lastly I got tired of this droopy aileron and pulled the ailerons and removed the
brackets from the ailerons them selves. I slotted the holes and re-installed
everything. Here is where the real magic happened. By raising and lowering
the ailerons you can fine tune and your plane will fly hands off with both ailerons
neutral. This will take patience but will be worth it. A 1/16" movement
on the outboard of the aileron had dramatically more effect than 10 full turns
on the flap rod end bearing. Amazing!
Good Luck,
--------
Bryan Wood
9A Flyin' the Flag
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28869#28869
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Day Trip: Antelope Canyon, Page Arizona |
Last week I made a stop at Antelope Canyon which is a slot canyon
15 minutes southeast of Page Arizona. The swirls and different views
at every turn are beautiful. So yesterday I flew from Meadow Lake (00V)
to Page (PGA) to photograph both Upper and Lower Antelope Canyon.
The trip out was at 16,500' and took 3 hours due to some headwinds.
I was late leaving but fortunately I gained an hour since Page is on
standard time. I drove out Hwy 98 towards the power plant and turned
right into the parking lot for the Upper canyon and made a reservation for
noon to get the light rays. The $6 Navajo park fee was good for all day
and both canyons. Then I drove across the road to the lower canyon.
The good thing about the lower canyon is that you can do it unguided and
the $15 fee is good for four fours versus one hour at the upper canyon.
The lower canyon requires more adventurous spirit since it involves some
steep steps, and areas that you can't even put a foot on sand between the two
walls. Regardless it is worth doing first since you can get your technique
down before you do the upper canyon. Since the slot canyon opening
is wider than the upper canyon, I am guessing that the best time is before
or after noon. The following links are three examples of the pics I took
yesterday.
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/Lower16Apr06_14Small.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/Lower16Apr06_79Small.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/Lower16Apr06_91Small.jpg
The upper canyon, also known as Corkscrew, has a few pics (perhaps
not my best) below. One does show the light rays that are likely best
just around noon. We did not get there until 12:50 standard time and it
was too late. These are from last Monday:
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/AntelopeCanyon39Small.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/AntelopeCanyon103Small.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/AntelopeCanyon183Small.jpg
These are from yesterday:
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/Upper16Apr06_19Small.jpg
http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/Upper16Apr06_28Small.jpg
Photo tips
1) Tripod
2) Cable release or camera timer
3) Expect exposures for ISO 200 and F/2.8 to be around 3 seconds.
It can be less from bright areas and much higher for darker areas.
Bracket exposures.
4) Wide angle lens. My camera is supposedly 35 mm equivalent.
The trip back was at 17,500' and ground speed 220-230 mph much of
the trip (great tailwind!).
There are groups that will do better photo tours. The one I used Monday
was at www.antelopecanyon.com
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | RV7 accident at Hicks Airport yesterday |
Yesterday at Hicks Airport, Ft. Worth, I see that PARKS, THOMAS W JR crashed on
takeoff. Substantial damage to the plane but none to him. The latter being
great news. What the heck happened?
Yesterday at Hicks Airport, Ft. Worth, I see that PARKS, THOMAS W JR crashed on
takeoff. Substantial damage to the plane but none to him. The latter being great
news. What the heck happened?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV7 accident at Hicks Airport yesterday |
That's where Bob Avery has his business. Bet he would know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <erichweaver(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | aircraft registration timing |
Greetings
Im at the point in construction of my RV-7A where I need to starting thinking about
registration and the DAR signoff. I have been delaying registration since
I know it will trigger a request for tax money from the state (California).
EAA says to allow 3-6 months for registration paperwork to go through the system.
What kind of time frame have others experienced?
thanks
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aircraft registration timing |
erichweaver(at)cox.net wrote:
>
> Greetings
>
> Im at the point in construction of my RV-7A where I need to starting
> thinking about registration and the DAR signoff. I have been
> delaying registration since I know it will trigger a request for tax
> money from the state (California). EAA says to allow 3-6 months for
> registration paperwork to go through the system. What kind of time
> frame have others experienced?
I'm not familiar with Kalifornyah aircraft tax laws, but in 'Bama
putting off aircraft registration will just increase the interest and
penalties for not making timely sales and use tax payments.
It's much better to pay taxes as the project is purchased in order to
avoid the tax, interest, and penalties just as you are finishing up the
project.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <erichweaver(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | firewall eyeball pass through hole |
I did three of these last weekend on my RV-7A using one of the larger Irwin unibits
that I was able to get off e-bay for about $23. The unibit made it through
the stainless firewall ok on the first hole, but the 2nd and 3rd holes were
tougher and I had to go slow with some short breaks to keep the temperature
down as the holes got big. Another thing you can do in a pinch, is use a slightly
undersized unibit (Costco in my area had them for up to 1 inch diameter)
if thats all thats available locally and finish it off by grinding with a Dremel.
A circle template is usefull to guide your grinding in this case.
You might be able to oversize your hole slightly, but not very much, as there really
isnt that much overlap by the eyeball fitting.
Good luck
erich weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aircraft registration timing |
Mine took about 4-5 weeks. I paid my sales (use tax) each year that I
purchased my kits and engine. Once you register it does trigger the
start of property tax for each year.
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
erichweaver(at)cox.net wrote:
>
>Greetings
>
>Im at the point in construction of my RV-7A where I need to starting thinking
about registration and the DAR signoff. I have been delaying registration since
I know it will trigger a request for tax money from the state (California).
EAA says to allow 3-6 months for registration paperwork to go through the system.
What kind of time frame have others experienced?
>
>thanks
>
>Erich Weaver
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "davercook" <davercook(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aircraft registration timing |
Applied for Feb.6 received it Mar. 17
Dave Cook RV-6 Finished 815DC
----- Original Message -----
From: <erichweaver(at)cox.net>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 6:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: aircraft registration timing
>
> Greetings
>
> Im at the point in construction of my RV-7A where I need to starting
thinking about registration and the DAR signoff. I have been delaying
registration since I know it will trigger a request for tax money from the
state (California). EAA says to allow 3-6 months for registration paperwork
to go through the system. What kind of time frame have others experienced?
>
> thanks
>
> Erich Weaver
>
>
--
----------------------------------------
Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Ross" <dcr(at)fdltownhomes.com> |
| Subject: | Request for info |
Guys: I am looking for a glass panel for my in-progress -9A. I am
interested in three models, the GRT EFIS Horizon I with EIS 4000, The
Advanced Flight Systems AF 3500 Combo, and the Dynon FlightDEK-D180. Anyone
have any experience with these units, good or bad? Also, I committed for an
autopilot today, I need the servos before closing the wings, the True Track
Digitflight IIVS. Any thoughts? Thanks, Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OT - AOPA donation-solicitation phone calls |
Have been a member of AOPA for 20 years and do not remember ever getting a
phone solicitation from them. Is this a scam?
Dale Ensing
do not achieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OT - AOPA donation-solicitation phone calls |
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
I usually don't take calls for donations but I make it clear in my house that the
exeption is the Air Safety Foundation. What they provide us -- free -- is massively
helpful, all designed to keep us from killing ourselves.
If you still don't want to be insulted by someone trying to keep you from dying,
then all you have to do is tell them to add your phone number to their Do Not
Call List. And they will do so, courteously and efficiently, the same way they
deliver their great service to us.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29100#29100
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OT - AOPA donation-solicitation phone calls |
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
Agreed.
Minnesota adopted a do-not-call orginance a few years ago so the ASF calls automatically
stopped. Instead they send a letter and a free calendar and some mailing
labels. So I send 'em a check. No calls or pushing telemarketers (and, yeah,
they probably have decided to outsource their telemarketing, which saves
them money, no doubt, but I think increases the complaints).
anyway, I try to send them money and gently remind them not to waste it on calendars
and mailing labels. (g)
B
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29121#29121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OT - AOPA donation-solicitation phone calls |
At 04:18 AM 4/18/2006 Tuesday, you wrote:
>
>
>Have been a member of AOPA for 20 years and do not remember ever getting a
>phone solicitation from them. Is this a scam?
>Dale Ensing
>do not achieve
No, I don't think it is. I got a "reminder call" last year too and it was legit.
They are pretty persistent, that's for sure. Its a good cause, though, if
you value your right to fly in the US.
Matt
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Throttle, Prop, and Mixture cable slack |
Fellow listers,
I'm working on my firewall foreward and since I had already made some decisions
before the firewall foreward kit was available, I can't use the stock locations
for my throttle and mixture cables. The prop cable went in to the stock location
nicely with the one hole eyeball fitting.
There seems to be just a little slack in that cable - just enough to allow flexibility
to keep it out of the way.
How much should I have? Upon measuring the cables that I got for the throttle
and mixture after putting them in where I could, I have 6" too much throttle cable
and 7" too much mixture cable. These are straight shot from the panel/console
to the eyeball passthrough the firewall. on the firewall side, I have sufficient
'Lycoming wet dog shake room'. I'm thinking on the aft side of the
firewall, I don't need much wiggle room other than to avoid stuff that could get
in the way and wear the cable.
Your thoughts please,
Ralph
RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 - fun firewall foreward!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7 accident at Hicks Airport yesterday |
Try this...
http://www.dfw.com/mld/startelegram/news/local/14360560.htm
Darrell
lucky wrote:
Yesterday at Hicks Airport, Ft. Worth, I see that PARKS, THOMAS W JR crashed on
takeoff. Substantial damage to the plane but none to him. The latter being great
news. What the heck happened?
Yesterday at Hicks Airport, Ft. Worth, I see that PARKS, THOMAS W JR crashed on
takeoff. Substantial damage to the plane but none to him. The latter being great
news. What the heck happened?
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jimmy Hill" <jimmy(at)jhill.biz> |
Fellow RV'ers:
My son and I plan a flight in our 8A this weekend from Okla. up to the Dakotas,
and surrounding areas.
Would appreciate knowing of any RV friendly locations--good sightseeing, possibly
airport camping spots, etc.
Thanks.
Jimmy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Transducer-Injected |
First question, where's a good place to put this in
the stream of fuel? I'm not too savvy on injected
engines.
While talking with Electronics International today, I
was told that since there is a return of unused fuel,
I'll need TWO transducers and a little box that
computes the unused fuel. This adds about $300 to the
price of my fuel flow, and am wondering if it's worth
it now. Thoughts?
Paul Besing
RV-4
N73DD
Arizona (For Now)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Transducer-Injected |
>
> First question, where's a good place to put this in the
> stream of fuel? I'm not too savvy on injected engines.
>
> While talking with Electronics International today, I was
> told that since there is a return of unused fuel, I'll need
> TWO transducers and a little box that computes the unused
> fuel. This adds about $300 to the price of my fuel flow, and
> am wondering if it's worth it now. Thoughts?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-4
> N73DD
> Arizona (For Now)
Paul, put it in the line between the servo and flow divider. You'll have to
add a hose, and you may need to bring those lines back to the firewall.
For others paying attention, not all fuel injection systems have this return
line (Airflow Performance, for one), making the installation as simple as a
carb with respect to fuel lines.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 751 hours, ripping out the Lasar system this weekend.
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer-Injected |
In the metered fuel line between the servo and flow divider is about as
ideal a spot as any imho.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 6:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Flow Transducer-Injected
March 29, 2006 - April 18, 2006
RV-Archive.digest.vol-rv