RV-Archive.digest.vol-rx

April 27, 2006 - May 13, 2006



      
      Jim Pleasants
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: Lawsuits against builders (Was AOPA hates
homebuilts?) -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 27, 2006
Subject: Re: Platenut Life
Hi Michael- I know this will start a storm of incandescent blowtorches from listers, but in MY experience, FWIW, I tapped every freakin' platenut on my plane and have never, I repeat NEVER experienced a single one of them loosening as a result- YMMV, but I must have installed 500 of the freakin' things (all floorboards, tanks, interior panels, wingroot fairings, baggage bulkhead etc.) and would do it again in a heartbeat. And by the way- my name is PHILLIPS and if there is ANY way I can avoid a PHILLIPS screw, it shall be done- I've used the torx fasteners from microfasterners.com with spectacular results, and you'll be glad you did the same- no gratuities from them, but I am in the torx camp and intend to stay there... (Pheeew! Do I get worked up sometimes or WHAT?!) I mean it- Mark Phillips - RV-6A N51PW, 300 hours and not a screw loose yet except maybe in the right seat! 8-) http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/ p.s. - I'd happily build an RV for you and every one of them suckers would have a nice sharp tap drilled mercilessly thru it! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 28, 2006
Subject: Re: Experimental Bill of Sale/Waiver
I wanted to at least get the text of my Bill of Sale that I used when selling my Kitfox back in 1997 out in this forum so that people can argue i ts merits and improve it as feasible. The previous .doc file I pasted from wa s soundly trounced by Matt's e-mail filter, so let's try pasting from a .txt file of it. I can send the original .doc file if any of you or your lawyers want i t as a basis for further development. Let's try to play nicely now. I know that anyone that puts forth any opinion on the list these days is due for a solid thrashing just for old ti mes sake, but just keep in mind that we're trying to be constructive here. I d on't care what any of you say anyway, so let the games begin ;o) -GV EXPERIMENTAL-AMATEUR BUILT AIRCRAFT SALES AGREEMENT THIS FORM SUPPLEMENTS, BUT DOES NOT REPLACE, FAA AC FORM 8050-2. THE FAA REGISTRATION-NUMBER OF THIS AIRCRAFT IS NXXXX. THIS AIRCRAFT WAS CONSTRUCTE D IN ACCORDANCE WITH PLANS SERIAL NUMBER XXXXX, AND IS A FACSIMILE OF AN AIRCRAFT KNOWN AS AN XX-XX. THE AIRCRAFT IS DESCRIBED IN GREATER DETAIL ON SHEET 2 OF THIS AGREEMENT. The experimental-amateur built aircraft being sold is not designed and/or built to meet any defined standards of airworthiness as are =E2=80=9CStandar d Aircraft=E2=80=9D. This aircraft does not have an FAA Form 317 Statement of Conformity on file, as there are no FAA approved data with which to conform. In the case of experimental-amateur built aircraft, the registered owner(s) is/are the experimenter(s). Most parts of this aircraft were not built in permane nt jigs and, as such, may not be directly interchangeable with like parts on other aircraft of the same facsimile. The original builder of this experimental aircraft may possess a repairman=E2=80=99s certificate for pur poses of maintaining and performing condition inspections on this aircraft only, although he/she may not be a professional mechanic nor possess an FAA A&P license. FAA records list the registered owner(s) as the manufacturer of an experimental-amateur built aircraft as the manufacturer and, as manufacturer, the registered owner(s) is/are free to make any modifications or changes to the design as they see fit, although notification of major alterations have and must be made to the FAA. This aircraft is an example of the builder/owner=E2=80=99s creative ability and was built for their education and recreation. Upon sale, the newly registered owner of this experimental-amateur built aircraft in fact will be considered its new manufacturer. As of the date of sale, the new owner becomes responsible for its aerodynamic and structural function and/or concept. The new owner is responsible for the performance, fit and/or purpose of eve ry part/piece on the aircraft. No warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, is made to the Purchaser or anyone else as to the merchantability or airworthiness of NXXXX. This experimental-amateur built aircraft is sold on an =E2=80=9CAS IS, WHER E-IS and WITH ALL FAULTS PRESENTLY INCORPORATED=E2=80=9D basis. Flying poses certain inherent risks that can result in serious injury or death. Any person who pilots or acts as passenger in this experimental aircraft do es so at his/her own risk. Because of the sale hereof and in receipt of other good and valuable consideration, the Purchaser/new Owner hereby Waives and Releases the seller(s) from any and all Demands, Claims of every kind, including but not limited to, Liability, Breach of Warranty or Negligence, which the Purchaser, owner , pilot, and/or passenger in this experimental aircraft may have. This Release and Waiver is binding on all Heirs, Person al Representatives and Assigns of the Purchaser, Subsequent Owners, Pilots and/or Passengers. As Purchaser/new Owner, I accept the terms of this Sales Agreement for the experimental-amateur built aircraft identified above and agree to be bound by the above stipulations. I agree that any subsequent sale of this aircra ft will be made with the same disclosures, agreements and assurances listed above as a minimum. Name of Purchaser/new Owner: Name of Purchaser/new Co-Owner: Purchaser=E2=80=99s Address: Co-Owner=E2=80=99s Address: Signature of Purchaser: Signature of Co-Owner: As Seller(s), on this XXth day of Month, XXXX in the County of XXXX, State of XX, I/We do hereby sell, grant, transfer, release and deliver all rights , title, interest, possession and responsibility for/to such experimental aircraft to the above Purchaser and acknowledge the receipt of a Cashier =E2=80=99s Check in the amount of $XXXX.00, payable to the Seller. No sales tax was collected pursuant to State Law and this becomes the responsibility of the Purchaser. Total Hours Engine and Airframe at time of sale XXX.X Name of Seller/Owner: Name of Seller/Co-Owner: Seller/Owner=E2=80=99s Address: Seller/Co-Owner=E2=80=99s Address: Signature of Seller/Owner: Signature of Co-Owner: Witness: Signature of Witness: This Bill of Sale is to be signed by all parties. The FAA dropped the requirement for notarizing in 1972. Seller retains the original and a copy is given to the Purchaser/new Owner. Seller sends a copy of the original document to the FAA along with Cancellation of Registration FAA AC FORM 8050-73. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2006
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Chopping up your plane for sale doesn't help.
> What benefit is there for the buyer in that. He's likely seen the > plane, knows it flies. Then you disassemble it and sell it to him. > Do you think that a) he'd still want to buy it knowing he has to put > it all back together (which he might not know how to do)and b) give > you the same price for it that he might have been thinking of giving > you? I'm pretty sure the answer to all your questions is "no". It seems like this important topic would be a good one for the RVWiki. http://www.rvwiki.org/ It comes up about every three months, and the discussion always goes the same way: 1) Someone asks if they need to think about getting sued if they sell their RV; 2) Several people say it has never happened, or is very rare; 3) Several people bring up John Denver's unfortunate crash; 4) Several people talk about various schemes for protecting assets; 5) Several people talk about sales contracts and no-harm clauses and waivers; 6) Several people talk about dismantling the aircraft as a way to avoid being sued; 7) Several people dismiss that idea as expanding the risk; 8) Finally, as is common with our legal system, everyone ends up confused, not really knowing if there is anything that can be done. So, they go back to flying, riveting, or surfing the web. I probably missed one or two important phases above, so feel free to interject your comments! After reading these several times over the past few years, here is what I have gotten out of the discussion. 1) The risk of getting sued is very low; 2) Best protection generally is to build as close as possible to the original design, and get lots of independent inspections; 3) No-harm liability waivers probably don't hurt, and probably won't help in court, but they may be enough to scare off potential suits by survivors or inexperienced lawyers; 4) If you're *not* "rich" (not sure how to define that), then the risk of getting sued is low, since the suing lawyer wants to get paid for their effort if they win; 5) If you *are* "rich", you should either buy a certified airplane, or if you do build an airplane, don't sell it. If you do, somehow protect your assets from lawsuits by consulting with a good attorney. 6) Liability insurance to help in the case of getting sued is available, but not cost-effective. Again, please feel free to make any comments or suggestions, and I'll be happy to slap this into the RVWiki for future reference. It really won't hurt my feelings at all if you tell me the above is all a bunch of Bravo Sierra, and I should go crawl under a rock. Best regards, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Mysterious Oil Leak
Date: Apr 28, 2006
Thanks for the info guys. I went to the airport & low & behold, there was some oil on the back of the triangular plate that forms the nose gear leg support box on the bottom of the engine mount. The back of the leg above the fairing was also oily and black. The fairing is unpainted & I couldn't see any oil on it when I shined a strong light on it. I didn't disassemble it to check because I've been having trouble getting the fairing to stay in position on the gear leg & didn't want to upset my latest attempt to secure it. I think it's quite likely the oil is being sucked down by gravity/airflow along the gear leg as you guys have said. No need to worry about anything rusting down there. Dave Reel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Platenut Life
Date: Apr 28, 2006
Having driven screws in and out of the same platenut many times, it seems to me that the platenut looses some of it's resistance once the first screw is driven but that it retains it's remaining resistance over time. I think the same rule applies here as is used with elastic stop nuts. If you can turn a screw all the way through the platenut to where the threads are coming out the other side by hand, it's too loose to provide security against loosening with vibration. You need to feel some drag from the platenut before the screw gets tight. I would never run a tap through a platenut as that destroys it's holding power. The type of head on the screw has nothing to do with the issue of platenut holding power which I believe was the main thrust of your post. I'd feel free to rivet them in place anytime. Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Medical in trouble
Date: Apr 28, 2006
Always hard to asses ones own ability to 'stay ahead of the airplane' since we can so easily lie to ourselves. This is no doubt 'Flame Bait' but one way I check my mental and physical reaction time is to use an appropriate video game. My favorite is Gran Turismo 4. I give myself a pass if I can compete at the highest level in the game. And if I could beat my grand kids at it, I'd probably be ready to take on Sean Tucker's job : ) BTW, Coffee has mental side effects. Should I ground myself every morning? Tracy Crook RV-4 1600 hrs of Hmmmm.... RV-8 almost ready for engine start ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Collins<mailto:bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 12:22 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: Medical in trouble > When dealing with medication, a lot of times what the FAA is looking is side effects. We all know, of course, how important it is to "stay ahead of" our machines. That's not easy sometimes with a clear head. Some of these meds are aimed directly at the brain and are intended to slow or change the signals it gets. It's very hard to stay ahead of a machine at that point. Even though we might feel "fine." The perfect solution? Meds with no side effects. But then they probably wouldn't work. -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D31003#31003 atronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D31003#31003> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ator?RV-List> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Medical in trouble
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: Apr 28, 2006
If I were to fly illegally, I guess the first thing I would do is pocket the insurance premiums. -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31325#31325 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Performance Problem Analysis
Date: Apr 28, 2006
From: "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle(at)hq.InclineSoftworks.com>
Dick, I am very interested in hearing your speed numbers. I am building RV8 with IO390, James Cowl and Plenum (per your suggestion) and A/C Prop. I am thinking the Grove landing gear for slippery legs. This configuration is very close to yours - what speeds are you getting. My target is 190K or better at 8,000' Dan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dick martin Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 6:25 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Performance Problem Analysis Dave, I have an RV8 with a James Cowl and plenum and a IO-390 engine. I believe that it contributes and average speed increase of 10 knots over a standard Vans cowl. I have over 1300 hours with this set up. I have also talked to as many others with this set up as possible, and the general consensus is the same as mine. Also, cooling problems are usually not a problem with this cowl. Dick Martin RV8 N233M the fast one ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Burden" <hootsnik(at)sbcglobal.net> Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 8:42 AM Subject: RV-List: Performance Problem Analysis > > Hello Listers, > > I am working through a performance issue and need some help. I need to > find some folks who have flying aircraft with the following combination of > features: > > Flying RV7a or 9a > Carburated 180 hp 0360 (Superior/ECI/Lyc) > Sam James Cowl/plenum/induction system > Fixed pitch propellor > > The intent is to compare some data and discuss any install challenges you > may have had to overcome with this, apparently rare combination. > > Please respond off list to: > > hootsnik(at)sbcglobal.net > > Thanks in advance for the help. > > Dave > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2006
From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Spelling lesson, entertainment only
On 23:44:13 2006-04-27 Chris W <3edcft6(at)cox.net> wrote: > Here > are some thoughts on the subject from those more knowledgeable about > it than I. The last one is extraordinarily well put. Ironically, your message and all of its attached quotes from learned folk were spelled perfectly... Even though neither you nor those learned folk seem to care about spelling! -Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: UFOBUCK(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 28, 2006
Subject: Re: Medical in trouble
In a message dated 04/28/2006 9:31:26 A.M. Central Daylight Time, mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch writes: Yes, I'm tea sipper Say it's not true !! Please !!! Your not a University of Texas Longhorn are you ?? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: Platenut Life
Date: Apr 28, 2006
If you prefer to preserve or at least extend the anti-vibration capability of plate nuts apply some Boelube to the screw threads when first installing them. Of course there are other products that work about the same. I just prefer this brand. Using Boelube on screw threads after they have been installed and removed without a thread prep material of some sort will also help. The Boelube acts as a cutting agent allowing the threads to polish or condition each other during installation, minimizing the galling of the similar materials. You will find that screws treated this way require much less force to install and breakage of the smaller size screws will be reduced if not avoided altogether. I obtained the "Boelube" product referred to above from Avery tools. The RV is all but done and I still have at least 3/4 of the little Boelube tube left for the next RV project?! Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 4:56 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Platenut Life > > Having driven screws in and out of the same platenut many times, it seems > to > me that the platenut looses some of it's resistance once the first screw > is > driven but that it retains it's remaining resistance over time. I think > the > same rule > applies here as is used with elastic stop nuts. If you can turn a screw > all > the way through the platenut to where the threads are coming out the other > side by hand, it's too loose to provide security against loosening with > vibration. You need to feel some drag from the platenut before the screw > gets tight. I would never run a tap through a platenut as that destroys > it's holding power. The type of head on the screw has nothing to do with > the issue of platenut holding power which I believe was the main thrust of > your post. I'd feel free to rivet them in place anytime. > > Dave Reel - RV8A > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2006
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Platenut Life
True, but any fastener smaller than a -3 is supposed to be non-structural anyway. I believe that the "structural" portion of fuel tank attachment comes from the "Z" brackets fastened to the wing spar, and the bracket between the root rib and the fuselage. The flush "skin" screws are simply to hold the skin down to the spar, & not for carrying structural loads. Skylor RV-8 Under Construction --- REHughes wrote: > Anyone considering using the Microfastener screws > should recognize that they > are AN507 style (non-structural with the threads all > the way to the > countersunk head, rather than the shanked structural > style of the AN509 > series.) Combine this with the effects of > employing Stainless vs. Alloy > Steel as the screw material, and the resultant > reduction in tensile > strength as compared to the plans called-out steel > AN509's is probably at > least 50%. > > If disruption of the .032 tank skin itself would be > expected to occur at a > much lower levels of stress, then this tradeoff in > screw structural strength > may be justifiable. I hope that some of the > structural engineers on the > List would comment on that. > > Hawkeye Hughes > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > Admin. > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 28, 2006
Subject: Re: Platenut Life
I sent an email to Microfasteners to inquire about the specs on the screws. Here is what they said: Our stainless steel 100 degree flat head torx drive screws are all intended to replace the cross recessed screws of NASM24693 covering non-structural screws. Their tensile strength is 85,000 psi minimum, same as the requirement for structural screws of NASM24694, so the tensile strength for 8-32 screws is 1190 lbs, minimum. We emphasize that these are not mil spec screws; first no testing has been done to verify that, apart from the different drive, they meet the requirements of either of the specs listed above, and second there is no mil spec covering these screws, to the best of our knowledge. Thanks for the inquiry. John Fleisher Micro Fasteners Interesting, eh? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "REHughes" <hawk(at)digisys.net>
Subject: Re: Platenut Life
Date: Apr 28, 2006
> > I sent an email to Microfasteners to inquire about the specs on the > screws. > Here is what they said: > Our stainless steel 100 degree flat head torx drive screws are all > intended > to replace the cross recessed screws of NASM24693 covering non-structural > screws. Their tensile strength is 85,000 psi minimum, same as the > requirement for structural screws of NASM24694, so the tensile strength > for > 8-32 screws is 1190 lbs, minimum. > > John Fleisher > Micro Fasteners > > Interesting, eh? To complete the comparison, the Alloy Steel An509 / MS24694 screws that Van's calls out are listed at 125,000 to 145,000 psi Hawkeye ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2006
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lawsuits against builders (Was AOPA hates homebuilts?)
>posted by: "Steve Glasgow" >Don't you dare shame me. >The idea of this forum is to make helpful suggestions about various >topics, not to shame people because they post a message you >personally do not agree with. >Steve Glasgow Well Steve I am sorry if I offended you sincerely, but come on 9/11! That just makes no sense and that is a sacred date, worth of respect, not to be mentioned casually. I actually agree with you. >"Just because something has never happened before doesn't mean >that it can't happen tomorrow. Witness 9/11." I am not sure what point you where trying to make? Again from legal precedence law suites against builders is zero to date. No one is saying that you can not be sued. Anything is possible, however what does that have anything to do with 9/11. If your attempted was to use an analogy to make the point, anything can happen, than hit by lighting or meteorite might be better than 9/11. Regarding homebuilt's they MEET NO STANDARDS of any kind and are not subject to product liability. They are Amateur, AMATEUR built. There is no PRODUCT Liability expressed or implied. You can change the name from RV-7, to "Death Trap-7; Model: Use at your OWN Risk." Attempt at humor but you know what I mean. There is a placard that tells all who fly in it, it DOES NOT meet STANDARDS. George --------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------- Blab-away for as little as 1/min. Make PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Szantho B. Szantho" <jszantho(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: 25 hour phase one
Date: Apr 28, 2006
Any of you guys know how I will be able to get the 25 hour "phase one" completed? Because of my medical problem I will not be able to fly it. Once this is done pilot friends will fly with me. Thanks for your friendship and help. John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 25 hour phase one
Date: Apr 29, 2006
John: I know of no requirement that the builder must fly the aircraft on its first flight or during the testing. You can designate anyone you like to do that. Dick Sipp RV10 40065 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Szantho B. Szantho" <jszantho(at)gmail.com> Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 12:02 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: 25 hour phase one > > Any of you guys know how I will be able to get the 25 hour "phase one" > completed? Because of my medical problem I will not be able to fly it. > Once > this is done pilot friends will fly with me. Thanks for your friendship > and > help. > > John > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Subject: Re: 25 hour phase one
Date: Apr 29, 2006
Anyone can fly the 25 hour flyoff. It need not be the builder, the pilot just cannot carry passengers. Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Szantho B. Szantho Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 12:02 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: 25 hour phase one Any of you guys know how I will be able to get the 25 hour "phase one" completed? Because of my medical problem I will not be able to fly it. Once this is done pilot friends will fly with me. Thanks for your friendship and help. John ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2006
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Lawsuits, Van's prices.
Hate to break it to ya George but....Vans has already been sued. The first production representative prototype RV-8 was being demonstrated to a potential customer (an ag pilot by profession) from California several years ago and the customer pulled the wings off of it (MY OPINION, not the NTSB finding, but seems logical considering how hard an ag pilot has to pull compared to how pitch sensitive the RVs are). This was N58RV, the yellow taildragger, actually the second RV-8 built by the factory. After the accident, the widow of the Van's employee who lost his life sued and Van's settled out of court for an undisclosed amount. This was 8-10 years ago now and Van's has continued to offer tremendous value even after suffering that AND the loss of the prototype RV-9A. I hope things havn't changed so much there that they are worried sick about litigation with every kit that goes out the door. That sort of worry by Cessna's insurance company ended up adding $50,000.00 to the base price of every Cessna in the 1980s before they stopped production of piston aircraft. Van's provides such value in their kits, it would be a shame if one of the last bastions of low priced kits had to double or triple what they have been getting for them just to satisfy lawyers or insurance companies. But then... a lot has changed in the 9 years since I started building Delta Mike, unfortunately it hasn't been for the better! Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Finishing the panel ________________________________ Message 2_________________________________ From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV-List: RE: Lawsuits against builders Conspiracy theorist unite. Could be? ALL I HAVE TO SAY IS, when the Lawsuits start, Van will start charging $45,000 for a kit, thanks to the idiots that are suing.................. George ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2006
From: Reuven Silberman <pilots2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 25 hour phase one
John, Where are you located? Reuven Silberman N7WT "Szantho B. Szantho" wrote: Any of you guys know how I will be able to get the 25 hour "phase one" completed? Because of my medical problem I will not be able to fly it. Once this is done pilot friends will fly with me. Thanks for your friendship and help. John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Apr 28, 2006
Subject: Re: Chopping up your plane for sale doesn't help.
"I thought the idea of taking it apart was to sell ALL of the parts to one person who then would obviously need to reassemble it." You couldn't offer me enough money to drill out all those rivets. Pete Cowper RV8 #81139 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com>
Subject: Re:Spelling lesson, entertainment onlyRe:Spelling lesson,
entertainment only
Date: Apr 29, 2006
Unbelivable, Ask a question about a problem and getmaybe 3 repys. pput up a crappy thing like this and get 30 replys, Come on guys! Charlie Heathco ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob 1" <rv3a.1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: World's best airplane battery
Date: Apr 29, 2006
> >Hi Bill, > >Sounds like Lithium Ion or Polymer to me. If it is, I would have >extreme concerns as to what the safety measures would be insure no >fire or explosion. Safety is not an issue. That is why they are so expensive. The specs are real. I have personally tested them myself. Would you pay $475 for such a battery? Bill Dube' *** NO *** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Szantho B. Szantho" <jszantho(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re:25 hour phase one
Date: Apr 29, 2006
Reuven, I live in Loveland, Colorado. John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mannan J. Thomason" <mannanj(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Platenut Life
Date: Apr 30, 2006
Gert: This happened to me. Had a batch of 200 that were over squeezed. Every one I tried would "cam out" and ruin the head of the screw. That's why I like the Torx head screws. Out of desperation, I ended up running a tap partially through all but couple of them. (Should have explained that in my earlier post.) Guess where the couple that I missed ended up. You're right, in the corners where you can't get a screwdriver square on them. They're a bitch to remove one eighth of a turn at a time with vise grips. For others out there reading this. In most aplications on these airplanes, the Microfastener SS 65,000 PSI strength is more than sufficient. In aplications that call for a shank on the screw vs. threaded all the way, then clearly the AN hardware is preferred. If you're new at building and don't have a lot of mechanical experience, when in doubt about a particular situation, consult someone knowledgeable and seek their advice. Get to know your EAA Technical Advisor Buy the local A&P or AI a cup of coffee or beer or even pay for their time and invite them over for a look at your project. Any advice you see on this website, or any other is worth exactly what you paid for it. $0.00 (Mine included, except for the seek competent help and advice.) Mannan Thomason RV-8 Engine running, looks like a real airplane! Flying soon. ----- Original Message ----- From: "gert" <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 1:18 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Platenut Life > > Bill > > I have had batches where even boelube did not work, they were plainly > over squeezed by a bit. I too have run a tap through several platenuts > depending on ease of access, structural function etc. E.g. i have used > plate nuts for my floor in my -8, i ran the tap at least partially in > the platenuts. actually i have a tap with a slightly longer taper, it > cleans the threads, but does not remove the squeeze all the way. > > gert. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Barrow" <bobbarrow10(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Platenut Life
Date: Apr 30, 2006
> I believe that the "structural" portion of fuel tank attachment comes >from the "Z" brackets fastened to the wing spar, and >the bracket between the root rib and the fuselage. >The flush "skin" screws are simply to hold the skin >down to the spar, & not for carrying structural loads. Why do you "believe" that. On what basis do you state that opinion. I would suggest to you that the tanks skins carry considerable load and that those loads will want to transfer to the spar by the most direct route...which will be primarily through the #8 skin screws. _________________________________________________________________ New year, new job there's more than 100,00 jobs at SEEK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Platenut Life
Date: Apr 30, 2006
On 30 Apr 2006, at 02:54, Mickey Coggins wrote: > >>> >>> I believe that the "structural" portion of fuel tank attachment >>> comes >>> from the "Z" brackets fastened to the wing spar, and >>> the bracket between the root rib and the fuselage. >>> The flush "skin" screws are simply to hold the skin >>> down to the spar, & not for carrying structural loads. >> >> Why do you "believe" that. On what basis do you state that >> opinion. I would >> suggest to you that the tanks skins carry considerable load and >> that those >> loads will want to transfer to the spar by the most direct >> route...which >> will be primarily through the #8 skin screws. > > Does the fact that the skin is dimpled help carry load, > or do the screws themselves carry the load? > > Won't the aluminium skin fail long before the "wimpy" SS screws? > > I recall someone doing a write-up on rivet strength in shear, > and one of the results was that a dimpled skin with a flush > rivet was much stronger than any other type of rivet, with > the conclusion that the dimpled skin was carrying load. > Perhaps someone else knows where to find that report. Bill Marvel's report is at: http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/rvlinks/marvelrivets.html I know there are a number of RVs flying with SS screws instead of AN hardware on the fuel tanks, and I haven't heard of any failures yet. But that is an experiment that I personally don't want to do. I'm reminded of an Australian P-3 that was subjected to a significant overstress. The aerodynamic loads were high enough that the wing leading edges came off the spar, destroying the ability of the wing to function, leading to a fatal accident. SS screws in the tank attachments may work just fine, until the day that there is an significant, inadvertent overstress. Then you could discover that the aircraft no longer has the hoped for 1.5 factor of safety, as the tanks come off well before the spar fails. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: First Flight
From: "B25Flyer" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Date: Apr 30, 2006
All, Ken Asbe, a police officer in Clear Lake, Iowa ordered a tail kit in 1989. He pounded the spar together in his basement. He raised a family, remodeled one house and built another, all the while slowly but surely pounding rivets. I have been working with him to get him current and a tailwheel endorsement. (no time for flying) The airplane was ready before he was and he asked me to fly it. On Wednesday night N851S broke ground and flew. The first flight was cut short by a plugged injector, but a few minutes work solved that and I flew it again for about 40 minutes. It has an IO-320 with a Bernie Warnke prop. It is an incredibly light airplane, 1020# I think, and my impression was of how wonderful "light" RV's fly. Ken is not on this list but you can send him congrats at N851S(at)yahoo.com Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31823#31823 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2006
From: Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: First Flight
Cc: N851S(at)yahoo.com Ken, Congratulations ! May your cross-countrys have strong tailwinds, and your landings be into the wind. Now speakin' as a brother of the badge, watch-out for those folks in ATC. They're always beatin' up cops about our "Adam, Boy, Charles" verses their "Alpha, Bravo, Charlies". And thank God you built a "Manly Plane" with the little wheel in back.... I'm gettin' awfully tired of seein' all those sissy nose draggers suckin' up our skies ! (asbestos britches on, fire at will :-) Chuck B25Flyer wrote: All, Ken Asbe, a police officer in Clear Lake, Iowa ordered a tail kit in 1989. He pounded the spar together in his basement. He raised a family, remodeled one house and built another, all the while slowly but surely pounding rivets. I have been working with him to get him current and a tailwheel endorsement. (no time for flying) The airplane was ready before he was and he asked me to fly it. On Wednesday night N851S broke ground and flew. The first flight was cut short by a plugged injector, but a few minutes work solved that and I flew it again for about 40 minutes. It has an IO-320 with a Bernie Warnke prop. It is an incredibly light airplane, 1020# I think, and my impression was of how wonderful "light" RV's fly. Ken is not on this list but you can send him congrats at N851S(at)yahoo.com Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31823#31823 --------------------------------- for 2/min or less. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2006
From: chaztuna(at)adelphia.net
Subject: RV-6A right elevator needed
Listers, My friend George Newman recently had damage done to his right elevator by a serviceman. He backed the plane into a steel post. George isn't computer saavy, so he asked me to post this request for him. He would like to buy a good, straight right side elevator for his flying RV-6A. Please contact him directly by phone at (954)942-5631 George is a yacht captain, so you may have to leave a message on his voice mail. Charlie Kuss ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2006
From: Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Wing tips
Don't know if this was discussed before or not....so, does anyone know if there are any significant benefits from installing RV7, RV8 style wingtips on an RV6, or 6A? For example lateral stability, speed, lift, reduction in stall speed, wing loading, maneuverability, etc. If any advantages do result what are the trade-offs? Thanks. Dick Seiders RV6A, 425hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: First Flight
From: "B25Flyer" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Date: Apr 30, 2006
I am sure glad to see that I have not lost my touch! I can start a $hit $torm without even trying!!!!! Yippee! Put the third wheel where ever you want, but if you want to sell your airplane to me when you are done with it, the little wheel will be in back Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31910#31910 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Wing tips
Date: Apr 30, 2006
When the sheared tips came out, it was thought they might offer slightly better performance in stability, stall speed, climb rate, and high altitude cruise due to the slightly higher aspect ratio. The improvements were small enough that they were hard to measure, although some of the people who were really into performance modifications claimed to have demonstrated the high altitude cruise improvement. There should be some additional information in the archives. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Seiders" <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 8:48 PM Subject: RV-List: Wing tips > > Don't know if this was discussed before or not....so, does anyone know if > there are any significant benefits from installing RV7, RV8 style > wingtips > on an RV6, or 6A? For example lateral stability, speed, lift, reduction in > stall speed, wing loading, maneuverability, etc. If any advantages do > result what are the trade-offs? > Thanks. > Dick Seiders RV6A, 425hrs. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV Sissies (Was: First Flight)
Date: Apr 30, 2006
From: "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com>
Finally a place I can contribute! Build what you want, fly what you want, paint it as you will, just don't expect an RV-10 to come in a tail dragger. Mentioned earlier was the Brazilian X-Wind video. I posted it on one of my sites some time ago. http://www.painttheweb.com/crosswind/ Robin RV-4 Sold RV-6A Flying RV-10(A) Shipping ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2006
From: jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Nosewheel Man
How's this for Manly - I fly what I WANT to fly. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2006
From: Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Platenut Life
Not to muddy the waters too much on this but the loading situation on the tank screws is surely a single shear situation with some clamping friction which "may" be enhanced by the dimpling of the underlying structure depending on the quality of the work. In other words, simple comparison of the tensile strength of the SS screw versus a steel screw are not the appropriate comparison in assessing this joint. Agree that greater tensile strength in the screws would allow more clamping friction to be generated when torquing the screws down and so, in theory, provide greater load ability. In a positive G pull up, the mass of the fuel in the tank will tend to rotate the tank LE downward putting the upper aft edge of the tank skin in tension. There is no clear rotation point but the lower skin should be in compression and there could be a skin failure due wrinkling before the screws become heavily stressed. The tank baffle (aft side of the tank) should at some point come into contact with the spar structure if the lower tank skin starts wrinkling which would make the strength in the lower screws irrelevant past this point. The outer end of the tank is supported by the tank skin lap to LE joint which will support some of the load as would the inboard tank support bracket that mates with the equivalent item on the fuselage. Not all RV models have this however. Just looking at the situation, my thoughts are that the screw spacing is driven as much by the need for a neat and tidy tank to wing join vice any loading consideration. The loading envelope involves a lot more positive G than negative G which would imply that the upper surface screws are more heavily stressed and there would/should be a need for more screws on the top of the tank than the bottom if the strength requirement was critical. AFAIK, most of the RV designs use the same spacing top and bottom which suggests that the tank to wing join may be simply a case of "intelligent overdesign". As Kevin notes, using something besides the tried and proven fasteners is getting into the nature of an experiment with serious consequences if it goes wrong. This is the sort of thing that calls for a ground static load test to destruction to see what fails first, etc. (just in case anyone has a spare set of wings they would want to sacrifice). Vans has done static load testing of some of the RV wing designs but the pictures I have seen do not look like they added any extra load to replicate the mass of the fuel in the tanks. That is, they were looking more at spar bending strength than tank to wing joint integrity. A final thought is that examination of RVs that have crashed with significant vertical velocity leading to a lot of positive G should indicate how and if the tanks separate from the wing structure. Has anyone seen such a crashed RV with anything to report? Jim Oke RV-3, RV-6A Wpg, MB Kevin Horton wrote: > >On 30 Apr 2006, at 02:54, Mickey Coggins wrote: > > > >> >> >> >>> >>> >>>> >>>>I believe that the "structural" portion of fuel tank attachment >>>>comes >>>>from the "Z" brackets fastened to the wing spar, and >>>>the bracket between the root rib and the fuselage. >>>>The flush "skin" screws are simply to hold the skin >>>>down to the spar, & not for carrying structural loads. >>>> >>>> >>>Why do you "believe" that. On what basis do you state that >>>opinion. I would >>>suggest to you that the tanks skins carry considerable load and >>>that those >>>loads will want to transfer to the spar by the most direct >>>route...which >>>will be primarily through the #8 skin screws. >>> >>> >>Does the fact that the skin is dimpled help carry load, >>or do the screws themselves carry the load? >> >>Won't the aluminium skin fail long before the "wimpy" SS screws? >> >>I recall someone doing a write-up on rivet strength in shear, >>and one of the results was that a dimpled skin with a flush >>rivet was much stronger than any other type of rivet, with >>the conclusion that the dimpled skin was carrying load. >>Perhaps someone else knows where to find that report. >> >> > >Bill Marvel's report is at: > >http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/rvlinks/marvelrivets.html > >I know there are a number of RVs flying with SS screws instead of AN >hardware on the fuel tanks, and I haven't heard of any failures yet. >But that is an experiment that I personally don't want to do. I'm >reminded of an Australian P-3 that was subjected to a significant >overstress. The aerodynamic loads were high enough that the wing >leading edges came off the spar, destroying the ability of the wing >to function, leading to a fatal accident. > >SS screws in the tank attachments may work just fine, until the day >that there is an significant, inadvertent overstress. Then you could >discover that the aircraft no longer has the hoped for 1.5 factor of >safety, as the tanks come off well before the spar fails. > >Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) >Ottawa, Canada >http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2006
From: Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Electric trim rigging
I have found the documentation on rigging the electrioc rudder trim thin. Are there any guidelines for a apoximate length for the trreadded rod? Is the servo in the retracted position? What is the normal angle of the trim tab at the servo retracted position? What is the stroke of the servo? Wiring diragram? Thanks Sherman Butler RV-7a Wings Idaho Falls --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Electric trim rigging
Date: May 01, 2006
What I did is retract the servo arm fully...mark that location on the arm (just trace a line on the arm up against the servo body). Then extend the arm fully. Mark that location on the arm. Measure halfway and mark that line on the arm. Retract the servo until the halfway line is on the body of the servo. The arm is now exactly in the middle of its range. Now rig the pushrod so that the trim tab is in trail with the elevator. That is how I rigged mine (RV-7), and I haven't had any problems in nearly 900 hours. No binding at either end of full travel. My 2 cents is to start there, and you can always tweak it one way or another after you fly to bias the range up or down. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (882 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sherman Butler" <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 6:35 AM Subject: RV-List: Electric trim rigging > > > I have found the documentation on rigging the electrioc rudder trim thin. > Are there any guidelines for a apoximate length for the trreadded rod? Is > the servo in the retracted position? What is the normal angle of the trim > tab at the servo retracted position? What is the stroke of the servo? > Wiring diragram? > Thanks > > > Sherman Butler > RV-7a Wings > Idaho Falls > > --------------------------------- > big. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: XCOM 760 radio
Date: May 01, 2006
Does anyone have experience (good, bad or indifferent) with the XCOM 760? Steve Soule N227RV RV-6A XCOM 760 radio

Does anyone have experience (good, bad or indifferent) with the XCOM 760?

Steve Soule
N227RV
RV-6A

________________________________________________________________________________
From: Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Subject: Re: RV Sissies (Was: First Flight)
Date: May 01, 2006
Jerry, I don't think it's a matter of fear. I'd love a tail wheel endorsement, but I've never been presented with the chance to earn one. Well, I *could* have taken time off when I was working on my instrument rating (the FBO had a Citabria for a while), but I stuck to the instrument rating at the time... I don't think it's fear. But someone from Van's once said: This is a get there kind of airplane. At the end of a long day, at dusk, landing at an unfamiliar field in a crosswind, you don't really want a challenging landing besides. When I heard that, that's when I decided to go for the -6A instead of the -6. Because I get what I want out of it -- a get there kind of airplane that's fun to fly. -Joe On Apr 30, 2006, at 10:09 PM, Jerry Springer wrote: > > Most nose weenies ;) now days are scared to death of a tailwheel > airplane. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2006
From: Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Electric trim rigging
Thanks Dan. Did you pull the servo manually or power it electricly? Dan Checkoway wrote: What I did is retract the servo arm fully...mark that location on the arm (just trace a line on the arm up against the servo body). Then extend the arm fully. Mark that location on the arm. Measure halfway and mark that line on the arm. Retract the servo until the halfway line is on the body of the servo. The arm is now exactly in the middle of its range. Now rig the pushrod so that the trim tab is in trail with the elevator. Sherman Butler RV-7a Wings Idaho Falls --------------------------------- for 2/min or less. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Electric trim rigging
Date: May 01, 2006
> Did you pull the servo manually or power it electricly? Believe it or not I used a 9V battery at the time. Didn't have my 12V handy and the little 9V worked just fine. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: RV Sissies (Was: First Flight)
Date: May 01, 2006
I was building all weekend so came late to this thread. LOL! Now this is much better entertainment than you get on TV or radio. Ok, that settles it. I'm heading down to Woodhaven, or whatever that woodworking store is called, and picking myself up a castering shop cart wheel, a big one. I'm going to build a mount for it, something that slants downward from the tail, then after landing and parking in the RV section of whatever air show, I'm mounting that wheel, along with a bag of shot in the rear to weight it down. Now with the plane safely angled in the right direction, I can brag about my ability to tap dance, spend an hour flying before heading home to make sure mamma is feeling satisfied, do some close hand holding with my buddies going to and from air shows, and generally feel good about my plane's manliness! I love it...... John Jessen 40328 (working on the RV-10 Tailcone and designing my fourth wheel) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2006
From: Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Electric trim rigging
You MUST power it to move it. If you pull it you will likely break some gear teeth! Dick Tasker Sherman Butler wrote: > >Thanks Dan. > Did you pull the servo manually or power it electricly? > >Dan Checkoway wrote: > >What I did is retract the servo arm fully...mark that location on the arm >(just trace a line on the arm up against the servo body). Then extend the >arm fully. Mark that location on the arm. Measure halfway and mark that >line on the arm. Retract the servo until the halfway line is on the body of >the servo. The arm is now exactly in the middle of its range. Now rig the >pushrod so that the trim tab is in trail with the elevator. > > >Sherman Butler >RV-7a Wings >Idaho Falls > >--------------------------------- for 2/min or less. > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2006
From: chaztuna(at)adelphia.net
Subject: Double belt pulley needed for ND alternator
Cc: gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com Listers, A friend of mine who is building a Cosy MK4, needs to install an extra fan belt to keep his water pump from slipping at high power (Mazda 13B engine). He needs to find a dual belt pulley for his Nippon Denso alternator. Does anyone know of a vehicle that used dual Vee belts with an ND alternator? How about a source for the pulley? Charlie Kuss ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2006
From: Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com>
Subject: Re: Electric trim rigging
We used a battery from a Makita 9.6 volt cordless drill. We just touched the leads to the contacts on the battery. Reverse the leads to reverse the direction of travel I believe. Mark Richard Tasker wrote: > > You MUST power it to move it. If you pull it you will likely break some > gear teeth! > > Dick Tasker > > Sherman Butler wrote: > > >> >> Thanks Dan. >> Did you pull the servo manually or power it electricly? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Brake Discs
Date: May 01, 2006
From: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com>
Anyone know a Cleveland or Rapco part number for the discs on an RV-6? Dw RV-6 925hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2006
From: chaztuna(at)adelphia.net
Subject: VA-168 Pressure Sender Manifold question
Listers, Could someone tell me the length of Vans VA-168 Manifold for mounting your various sending units? Charlie Kuss ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Discs
The ones I use on my RV6A Sissy plane are RA66-106 but get a confirming email from someone else. Ron Lee >Anyone know a Cleveland or Rapco part number for the discs on an RV-6? >Dw >RV-6 925hrs > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2006
From: chaztuna(at)adelphia.net
Subject: Re: Brake Discs
Cc: "Wentz, Don" Don, The Cleveland number is 164-01700. If you'd like to upgrade your brakes a bit, you can order a pair of 164-0990 discs. These are thicker than the stock units and will require that you make a spacer plate to be installed between the halves of your brake calipers. The spacer is to compensate for the additional thickness of these rotors. ACS and Wicks sell an "upgrade" kit for RV brakes which uses these rotors. They get $300 for the kit, which contains two 164-09900 rotors, two caliper spacers and 4 slightly longer caliper bolts. You can save money on the upgrade by making the spacers yourself and just buying the bolts. FYI the "upgrade" discs are slightly LESS expensive than the stock rotors. Go figure! Charlie Kuss ---- "Wentz wrote: > > Anyone know a Cleveland or Rapco part number for the discs on an RV-6? > Dw > RV-6 925hrs > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: VA-168 Pressure Sender Manifold question
I just installed this on Saturday - didn't measure it though...got pictures regardless.....if you haven't gotten an answer, I'll measure it over the weekend....... -----Original Message----- >From: chaztuna(at)adelphia.net >Sent: May 1, 2006 1:08 PM >To: RV List >Subject: RV-List: VA-168 Pressure Sender Manifold question > > >Listers, > Could someone tell me the length of Vans VA-168 Manifold for mounting your various sending units? >Charlie Kuss > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larygagnon(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 2006
Subject: Re: VA-168 Pressure Sender Manifold question
It measures 5 inches long, 3/4 inch wide and 1 inch tall. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2006
From: Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV Sissies (Was: First Flight)
Welcome John. I respectfully accept your inadequacies.... I understand Van did it for "sale" appeal. And I do admit I can't want until one of my friends gets done building their RV-10 so I can go flyin' with them. Just a heads-up; periodically, I like to run over and swat this RV-List/Hornets Nest and sit back whilst they get all lathered up. Hecka doodle, it's almost as much fun as taping a cat to my neighbor's front door and ringin' the bell. I usually don't even run, cuz' the cat gets un-stuck when they open the door, and I can't run straight when I'm laughin' & cryin' that hard. Take air, Chuck John Jessen wrote: I was building all weekend so came late to this thread. LOL! Now this is much better entertainment than you get on TV or radio. Ok, that settles it. I'm heading down to Woodhaven, or whatever that woodworking store is called, and picking myself up a castering shop cart wheel, a big one. I'm going to build a mount for it, something that slants downward from the tail, then after landing and parking in the RV section of whatever air show, I'm mounting that wheel, along with a bag of shot in the rear to weight it down. Now with the plane safely angled in the right direction, I can brag about my ability to tap dance, spend an hour flying before heading home to make sure mamma is feeling satisfied, do some close hand holding with my buddies going to and from air shows, and generally feel good about my plane's manliness! I love it...... John Jessen 40328 (working on the RV-10 Tailcone and designing my fourth wheel) --------------------------------- at 1¢/min. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Discs (Disregard previous post)
Disregard my part number. I gave you disk PADS, not the discs. Ron Lee Archive since the wrong info was in my previous post At 11:23 AM 5/31/2006, you wrote: > >The ones I use on my RV6A Sissy plane are RA66-106 >but get a confirming email from someone else. > >Ron Lee > > > >Anyone know a Cleveland or Rapco part number for the discs on an RV-6? > >Dw > >RV-6 925hrs > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: May 01, 2006
Subject: Re: RV Sissies (Was: First Flight)
We taildragger fans will have to concede that the delivery of the first Atomic Bomb was trusted to the nose-wheeled B-29. Of course by the end of the war there were so many women pilots that they may have had to begin moving the little wheels to the front of all aircraft . . . Pete Cowper RV-8 #81139 working on fuselage with tail spring proudly mounted. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV Sissies (Was: First Flight)
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 01, 2006
[quote...by the end of the war there were so many women pilots that they may have had to begin moving the little wheels to the front of all aircraft . . . Pete Cowper[/quote] While many among us continue to be eternally fixated on the proper position of that 3rd wheel (as if our opinion could ever change a single mind), it may be helpful to remember yet another insightful perspective, this one originating from our esteemed Navy brethern......"Flare to land, squat to pee!" [Shocked] Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32136#32136 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2006
From: jay pearlman <rv6jp(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: panel design
Does anyone know where to get low cost or no cost panel design software to try our ideas? --------------------------------- for 2/min or less. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2006
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: panel design
On 05/01 8:01, jay pearlman wrote: > Does anyone know where to get low cost or no cost panel design software to try our ideas? What I did was to print on my color printer the instruments that I though I wanted in the panel. I printed them life-sized. I got the pictures here and there from the internet, they're easy to find. Then arranged them as I liked on the actual full-sized panel. It's much better than a program since it's faster and it's full sized. When you are happy with your arrangement, take a few photos and send it off to you panel cutter or do it yourself. -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com Flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: panel design
Date: May 01, 2006
www.epanelbuilder.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2006
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: panel design
<http://xpanelsoftware.com/Index.htm> Free version in the "Free Products" section -- Larry Rosen RV-10 #356 http://lrosen.nerv10.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: panel design
Date: May 02, 2006
From: "George Neal E Capt HQ AU/XPRR" <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil>
Jay - I tried several different programs and finally settled on Xpanel www.xpanelsoftware.com It's packed with features and easy to learn. Neal RV-7 N8ZG (wiring) Does anyone know where to get low cost or no cost panel design software to try our ideas? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Firesleeving
Folks, >From what I've seen, most folks are not firesleeving their oil cooler feed/return/pressure lines nor their fuel pressure line which I'm OK with. Fuel feed/return lines I think need to be firesleeved..... I'm having a problem determining what size firesleeve to use. The ACS website has a table for their firesleeve parts which does not list the 303 hose that we're supposed to use. I'm getting ready to buy the stuff to build my fuel hoses - including the firesleeving. I'll be building an assembly that includes a pair of hoses and a fuel flow meter - I'm guessing that I'll need a larger chunk of firesleeve to go over the flow meter. Can anyone tell me what the correct size of Firesleeving is for a 303-4, 303-6, and Flowscan 201 fuel flow meter? Thanks, Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Preston Kavanagh" <pbk3(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: engine workshop at Mattituck
Date: May 02, 2006
This past Saturday, Mattituck hosted an engine building workshop at their Long Island facility. The trip, organized by Jim Simmons and Bob Spaulding of EAA chapter #27, allowed 40 of us to get the inside skinny on a lot of great information. The hardest part of this trip was getting up in time to catch the bus. Leaving my house at 3:15 a.m., in Cromwell I met up with friends and chapter memebers from throughout Connecticut. A second stop in New Haven, then a drive to New London, where we watched the sun come up as we got on a 6 am ferry. As the light increased and the coffee set in, I got to learn more about the various builders on the trip. I had thoguht of #27 as being very much an RV builder's chapter. I was surprised and pleased by the diversity of types and experience in the group - a Hatz Classic, EAA biplane, RV-6,7,8 a Taylorcraft rebuild and even a student pilot interested in all of it. By 8 am we were pretty tightly bonded, and at the Mattituck shop. We were treated like vistiing royalty - it became pretty clear that customer service has been Mattituck's success formula since 1946. As we walked in we got name badges and folders stuffed with checklists and flyers, and a very generous breakfast assortment. Chairs were organized in a semicircle, facing an engine stand, and behind that a long set of parts laid out in logical groups, with a tool chest at one side. The Mattituck people were introduced, and they thoughtfully covered both the agenda and the logistics of food and breaks during the day. It was obvious that they had done this before, and had put a lot of work into the organization of our day. All the big dogs turned out - including Mr. Parker Wickham, who founded the business when he came back from WWII (at the close of the day one gets a certificate - I got him to sign mine). The building was led by Mahlon Russell, A&P - IA. I was startled to learn that this one guy has worked for Superior, ECI and now Mattituck, setting the standards for the experimental engines each has brought to the market. I have worked alongside of a great local engine shop (Pine Mountain Aviation of Danbury, CT), and have done the workshops at OshKosh. This was better - we went beyond the what to the why, and got to talk about alternatives. The project was the TMX-360, and by the end of the day it was ready for the test cell. (Assembled without a second IA signing off, this particular engine is disassembed and re-used for the next demonstration.) Along the way, we learned about the process used to control the assembly of an engine, and the tricks of the trade that make it easy to do it right the first time. We learned about balancing and the subtle variations in dimensions that force compromises, and how to manage the risk of buying overhauled parts. It was a great intro to the innards of the 0-360, and a good display of a famous engine shop. And the swag! We walked out with tee shirts, folders of reference materials, and engine stickers to use the next time I want to pretend that a 60-year-old O-235 actually came off Bohannon's time-to-climb champion. We got a tour of a hidden gem of a car museum, a tour of the larger Mattituck overhaul facility, a lot of food, and a standing invitation to fly in to the gorgeus landing strip they own. It was a great day. Mattituck won't do this very often, but if you can pull together a group of 30-50 people they will find a way. If you are interested, I suggest you contact Michael Yousik at michael_yousik(at)teledyne.com. Preston Kavanagh RV-6a under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-List Digest: panel design
Date: May 02, 2006
From: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Cc: In all seriousness, swipe a bunch of minilla folder) from work, grab the ruler and your old circle compass (with the pencil piece in it) and a Spruce catalog. Go to the instrument pages in the Spruce catalog then cut yourself a bunch of 3 1/3 instrument and 2.25 circle/squares from the minilla folders and have fun with placement on a flat surface..use your imagination with your new cutouts. Why learn a piece of software just to use it once...some of the software packages are are not intuitive and the time spent learning them is a waste........... ....................................................................... ............ jay pearlman Subject: RV-List: panel design Does anyone know where to get low cost or no cost panel design software to try our ideas? --------------------------------- countries) for 2/min or less. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: OSH RV events update
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: May 02, 2006
After three weeks of surveying interest, I think it's safe to conclude there is almost no interest in the proposed RVers area at Camp Scholler during AirVenture. (http://home.comcast.net/~bcollinsrv7a/eaa/index.htm (http://home.comcast.net/~bcollinsrv7a/eaa/index.htm)). So I'm scrapping that idea as well as the week-long RVers hospitality tent idea. If anyone wants to camp near us, we'll be on 12th between Lindbergh and Elm. -0- Next up on the agenda, however, is the RV Family Reunion BBQ, scheduled for July 26th, 6 p.m. We're trying to round up a few volunteers. This is a really hard thing to pull off with one or two people, both from a time and money perspective, for even the simplest get-together. (It's usually two-three days of work,without going to the Flight line or show). So we're still looking for a few volunteers. Please see the duty roster at http://home.comcast.net/~bcollinsrv7a/eaa/2006bbq.html (http://home.comcast.net/~bcollinsrv7a/eaa/2006bbq.html). If we can get enough help, we'll go ahead with this year's version. -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32320#32320 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: engine timing at HWD
Date: May 02, 2006
Hi there - Does anyone out there know of a mechanic who could help me time an 0-320 later this week at HWD in the Bay Area? Thanks, Parker ____________________________________ F. Parker Thomas ShredFirst phone 510-433-0200 fax 510-217-5976 parker(at)shredfirst.biz www.shredfirst.biz ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject:
Date: May 02, 2006
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Vince Frazier 3965 Caborn Road Mount Vernon, IN 47620 812-464-1839 work 812-985-7309 home F-1H Rocket, N540VF http://vincesrocket.com/airplane%20junk.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List Digest: panel design
Date: May 02, 2006
> > In all seriousness, swipe a bunch of minilla folder) from > work, grab the ruler and your old circle compass (with the > pencil piece in it) and a Spruce catalog. Go to the > instrument pages in the Spruce catalog then cut yourself a > bunch of 3 1/3 instrument and 2.25 circle/squares from the > minilla folders and have fun with placement on a flat > surface..use your imagination with your new cutouts. Why > learn a piece of software just to use it once...some of the > software packages are are not intuitive and the time spent > learning them is a waste........... I agree with Phil - for something as important as panel design, lay it out and sit in your plane. Go through the various phases of flight, developing initial checklists. The panel layout should make sense from a startup, taxi, runup, takeoff, cruise, etc. point of view. Most overlook this. Think about finding the right switch at night (ever try that along a long line of switches)? CAD has its place, but more important is the general layout of the panel, and the sticky notes, or cardboard cutouts, as Phil discusses, is the best starting point. (In case you are tempted to light the torch, I spend many hours a week using CAD packages in my line of work, so it is not that I'm somehow "old fashioned". I just know what their limitations are.) Alex Peterson RV6-A N66AP 752 hours Maple Grove, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: What is the best way to determine speed improvements?
I have used 3-way GPS runs in the past. I have started using 4 way GPS runs. I tried using the Excel program on Kevin Horton's site and did not do very well. Both runs (yesterday and today) had a Standard Deviation of around 3. Point 2 below is the data in knots and today's is Point 3 (in MPH). The final TAS was identical in both cases which seems oddly coincidental. I use a GPS to average the speed for each directional run which I had hoped would smooth out piloting errors. Apparently it did not. I am curious how well others do on this and whether I should just go up and record the IAS under set conditions then redo it after making a change that may improve airspeed (such as Pressure recovery wheelpants). Ron Lee Point 2 Vwind Wind dir Vtrue Vg Track (kts) (deg) (kts) 148 352 14.7 336 161.8 160 252 12.1 308 166.8 176 166 19.2 307 161.7 175 84 20.8 326 166.6 ave 16.7 319.4 164.2 std dev 2.9 All these values are MPH Point 3 Vwind Wind dir Vtrue Vg Track (kts) (deg) (kts) 190 352 21.7 265 192.5 171 256 17.5 286 186.4 194 168 10.3 271 191.9 202 80 15.8 247 186.6 ave 16.3 267.5 189.3 std dev 3.3 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: What is the best way to determine speed improvements?
Date: May 02, 2006
On 2-May-06, at 7:37 PM, Ron Lee wrote: > > I have used 3-way GPS runs in the past. > > I have started using 4 way GPS runs. > > I tried using the Excel program on Kevin Horton's site and did not > do very well. Both runs (yesterday and today) had a Standard > Deviation > of around 3. > > Point 2 below is the data in knots and today's is Point 3 (in > MPH). The > final TAS > was identical in both cases which seems oddly coincidental. > > I use a GPS to average the speed for each directional run which I > had hoped > would smooth out piloting errors. Apparently it did not. > > I am curious how well others do on this and whether I should just > go up > and record the IAS under set conditions then redo it after making a > change > that may improve airspeed (such as Pressure recovery wheelpants). > > Ron Lee > > > Point 2 Vwind Wind dir Vtrue > Vg Track (kts) (deg) (kts) > 148 352 14.7 336 161.8 > 160 252 12.1 308 166.8 > 176 166 19.2 307 161.7 > 175 84 20.8 326 166.6 > ave 16.7 319.4 164.2 > std dev 2.9 > > > All these values are MPH > > Point 3 Vwind Wind dir Vtrue > Vg Track (kts) (deg) (kts) > 190 352 21.7 265 192.5 > 171 256 17.5 286 186.4 > 194 168 10.3 271 191.9 > 202 80 15.8 247 186.6 > ave 16.3 267.5 189.3 > std dev 3.3 > Ron, There are several possible explanations for the poor quality data: 1. The weather conditions may not have been good enough. You need really smooth air, and the wind direction and speed at the test altitude must be steady. 2. You made a mistake when copying down one or more of the numbers. This is easy to do. 3. You didn't fly as accurately as necessary. If you want good quality data, the flying must be very accurate. The altitude and IAS for each run must be exactly the same. You need to fly a constant heading long enough for the GPS to filter out any variations and provide a steady track and GS. The key to success - I find it extremely difficult to get good data unless I have someone with me to record the data. That lets me concentrate on flying the aircraft. If I have someone to record the data, I can normally get a std deviation of less than one knot, but I've been doing this sort of stuff for many years. Don't get discouraged. Practice makes perfect. Accurate performance testing takes a lot of work. As far as simply recording IAS. That can work, if you have developed a test procedure that gives a repeatable result. If you get the same IAS on several different flights, then you have an idea of what the performance is. Don't simply take IAS readings on one flight, and believe that they are guaranteed to be accurate. Good luck, ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Ohio Valley RVators Formation Clinic
Date: May 02, 2006
Thanks for the reports guys you have made me real homesick. Falcon/Kahuna, be thinking about how to incorporate at least a few of the bomber model RV10s into formations. There are already more than 30 flying and they are coming out of the garages at a good clip. 35th anniversary flight? Frogman Dick Sipp #40065 do not archieve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Scroggs" <rv4ross(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Firesleeving
Date: May 02, 2006
Ralph, According to the ACS catalog, page 122, the 303-4 hose uses AE102-9, the 303-6 uses AE102-12. Both firesleeve's use the 900591B-2C clamp. Don't think I've ever seen firesleeve on a flow meter/transducer. Ross Scroggs RV-4 #3911 Locust Grove, GA. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 9:38 AM Subject: RV-List: Firesleeving > > Folks, > >>From what I've seen, most folks are not firesleeving their oil cooler >>feed/return/pressure lines nor their fuel pressure line which I'm OK with. > > Fuel feed/return lines I think need to be firesleeved..... > > I'm having a problem determining what size firesleeve to use. The ACS > website has a table for their firesleeve parts which does not list the 303 > hose that we're supposed to use. > > I'm getting ready to buy the stuff to build my fuel hoses - including the > firesleeving. I'll be building an assembly that includes a pair of hoses > and a fuel flow meter - I'm guessing that I'll need a larger chunk of > firesleeve to go over the flow meter. > > Can anyone tell me what the correct size of Firesleeving is for a 303-4, > 303-6, and Flowscan 201 fuel flow meter? > > Thanks, > Ralph > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marc and Kathy" <marchudson(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Dents in the HS skin
Date: May 03, 2006
Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are suggestions on how to fix it? The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line. This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and only to the nose ribs. I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward about 1/8 of an inch. I'm confident that this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting. Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting? Has anyone else seen this? I could e-mail pictures if needed. Thanks for the help. Marc Hudson marcandkathy.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Firesleeving
Thanks to Ross for the info.... Jerry's correct and the size they recommend for the flowmeter/transducer is -24 which ACS does not carry. Anyone got a foot of -24 kicking around? Either I was looking at the wrong page (likely) or ACS updated their website...... Ralph -----Original Message----- >From: Jerry Grimmonpre <jerry(at)mc.net> >Sent: May 3, 2006 12:19 AM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Firesleeving > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" > >AFP recommends firesleeve on the flow meter/transducer. >Jerry Grimmonpre' >RV8A Electrical > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Ross Scroggs" <rv4ross(at)charter.net> >To: ; ; > >Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 9:47 PM >Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Firesleeving > > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Ross Scroggs" >> >> Ralph, >> According to the ACS catalog, page 122, the 303-4 hose uses AE102-9, the >> 303-6 uses >> AE102-12. Both firesleeve's use the 900591B-2C clamp. >> Don't think I've ever seen firesleeve on a flow meter/transducer. >> >> Ross Scroggs >> RV-4 #3911 >> Locust Grove, GA. >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> >> To: ; ; >> >> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 9:38 AM >> Subject: RV-List: Firesleeving >> >> >>> >>> Folks, >>> >>>>From what I've seen, most folks are not firesleeving their oil cooler >>>>feed/return/pressure lines nor their fuel pressure line which I'm OK >>>>with. >>> >>> Fuel feed/return lines I think need to be firesleeved..... >>> >>> I'm having a problem determining what size firesleeve to use. The ACS >>> website has a table for their firesleeve parts which does not list the >>> 303 hose that we're supposed to use. >>> >>> I'm getting ready to buy the stuff to build my fuel hoses - including the >>> firesleeving. I'll be building an assembly that includes a pair of hoses >>> and a fuel flow meter - I'm guessing that I'll need a larger chunk of >>> firesleeve to go over the flow meter. >>> >>> Can anyone tell me what the correct size of Firesleeving is for a 303-4, >>> 303-6, and Flowscan 201 fuel flow meter? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Ralph >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> http://wiki.matronics.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Firesleeving
Date: May 03, 2006
> > > Thanks to Ross for the info.... > > Jerry's correct and the size they recommend for the > flowmeter/transducer is -24 which ACS does not carry. > > Anyone got a foot of -24 kicking around? > > Either I was looking at the wrong page (likely) or ACS > updated their website...... > > Ralph I have wrapped a couple things with "sheets" of firesleeve, made by cutting some -10 open, and treating the raw edges with red RTV. I wrap them using safety wire. Maybe not as good as a complete sleeve, but keeps the general heat down and would provide some protection in a fire. Alex Peterson RV6-A N66AP 752 hours (almost done with the Lightspeed install) Maple Grove, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: What is the best way to determine speed improvements?
Date: May 03, 2006
-----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 7:38 PM Subject: RV-List: What is the best way to determine speed improvements? I use a GPS to average the speed for each directional run which I had hoped would smooth out piloting errors. Apparently it did not. I am curious how well others do on this and whether I should just go up and record the IAS under set conditions then redo it after making a change that may improve airspeed (such as Pressure recovery wheelpants). Ron Lee Ron: Some things I learned when testing the RV-4: The atmosphere must be stable. If it is not, vertical motion in the atmosphere makes steady state conditions difficult to achieve. In the midwest during the warm months, just after dawn when under a large high pressure system can work well. As Kevin says, accurate flying is essential. Plus or minus 10' of altitude can be tolerated if the excursions have a long enough period. Data runs need to be held for a long time, several minutes at least. It's surprising how long it takes to get things really settled down. The lower the wind speed, the more likely is success because with significant wind, the likelyhood of vertical component increases. Temperatures can be clues to stability. If there are changes during a run there well may be shear present that will spoil data. A second person to record the data is important. I could never fly accurately enough when trying to write. A voice recording system could perhaps substitute for a copilot. A copilot can help with other things. Watching for traffic. Monitoring fuel state. Watching for any anomolies in aircraft operation. Once when doing a series of runs over western lake Erie I ran a tank dry. It was not a problem, but it screwed up the run. I was really intent on flying accuracy to the exclusion of other things. The above picture is not complete, however. Power needs to be considered and that will vary with altitude, temperature etc. So the GPS, in my opinion, can tell you some things, but without corrections for variations in power it is still difficult to understand what is really happening. A good textbook can help. "Aerodynamics for Naval Aviators" has some good material in it. Test flying is hard work but can be very rewarding. Keep at it. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2006
From: John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: Re: What is the best way to determine speed improvements?
Ron and Kevin I am assuming the program on Kevin's website is similar to the one I use from the Nat'l Test Pilot School. Sounds the same. I agree with Kevin, getting good data is not easy. I have run at least 100 4-legged GPS runs in the last 3 years testing 4 different props and numerous speed mods on my RV8. If the standard deviation is more than 1, I throw away the run. This is an indication that either I did not fly it right, did not wait long enough for the speed to settle down after the last turn, or the air 1) has vertical movement, or 2) the winds aloft are varying in direction or speed. Ron, as you know already, here in the mountains it is hard to find smooth steady winds. Especially on the front range where you are, the chance of having zero mountain wave in the spring is small. So, you really have to watch the winds aloft forecasts and choose your test days. Today, for example, I was going to test my latest cowl mod, but the winds are too strong, and showing variance in direction in my area (4-corners). Also, I always use my autopilot with altitude hold to fly the patterns. This gives me time to take data and watch for traffic. I used to test without an autopilot, and it is very hard, and probably dangerous because you run out of time to watch for traffic. It is also important to fly your tests at the same density altitude, rpm, fuel flow, weight, bug density on the wings, etc. to have data to compare. Even then, there will be some variations, so I always fly 3 different days, and 3 or 4 patterns each day, and take an average to assess each mod. Have fun...it is a lot of fun. John Kevin Horton wrote: > >On 2-May-06, at 7:37 PM, Ron Lee wrote: > > > >> >>I have used 3-way GPS runs in the past. >> >>I have started using 4 way GPS runs. >> >>I tried using the Excel program on Kevin Horton's site and did not >>do very well. Both runs (yesterday and today) had a Standard >>Deviation >>of around 3. >> >>Point 2 below is the data in knots and today's is Point 3 (in >>MPH). The >>final TAS >>was identical in both cases which seems oddly coincidental. >> >>I use a GPS to average the speed for each directional run which I >>had hoped >>would smooth out piloting errors. Apparently it did not. >> >>I am curious how well others do on this and whether I should just >>go up >>and record the IAS under set conditions then redo it after making a >>change >>that may improve airspeed (such as Pressure recovery wheelpants). >> >>Ron Lee >> >> >>Point 2 Vwind Wind dir Vtrue >>Vg Track (kts) (deg) (kts) >>148 352 14.7 336 161.8 >>160 252 12.1 308 166.8 >>176 166 19.2 307 161.7 >>175 84 20.8 326 166.6 >>ave 16.7 319.4 164.2 >>std dev 2.9 >> >> >> >>All these values are MPH >> >>Point 3 Vwind Wind dir Vtrue >>Vg Track (kts) (deg) (kts) >>190 352 21.7 265 192.5 >>171 256 17.5 286 186.4 >>194 168 10.3 271 191.9 >>202 80 15.8 247 186.6 >>ave 16.3 267.5 189.3 >>std dev 3.3 >> >> >> > >Ron, > >There are several possible explanations for the poor quality data: > >1. The weather conditions may not have been good enough. You need >really smooth air, and the wind direction and speed at the test >altitude must be steady. > >2. You made a mistake when copying down one or more of the numbers. >This is easy to do. > >3. You didn't fly as accurately as necessary. If you want good >quality data, the flying must be very accurate. The altitude and IAS >for each run must be exactly the same. You need to fly a constant >heading long enough for the GPS to filter out any variations and >provide a steady track and GS. > >The key to success - I find it extremely difficult to get good data >unless I have someone with me to record the data. That lets me >concentrate on flying the aircraft. If I have someone to record the >data, I can normally get a std deviation of less than one knot, but >I've been doing this sort of stuff for many years. > >Don't get discouraged. Practice makes perfect. Accurate performance >testing takes a lot of work. > >As far as simply recording IAS. That can work, if you have developed >a test procedure that gives a repeatable result. If you get the same >IAS on several different flights, then you have an idea of what the >performance is. Don't simply take IAS readings on one flight, and >believe that they are guaranteed to be accurate. > >Good luck, > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dents in the HS skin
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 03, 2006
marchudson(at)comcast.net wrote: > Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are suggestions > on how to fix it? The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line....... I'm confident that this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting........Has anyone else seen this?....... Marc, I addressed this fairly typical condition that can occur in one form or another. The heart of the problem is a gap that must be dealt with. I refer to you this recent thread with a fix I have frequently used with great success. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=6750 Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32541#32541 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Dents in the HS skin
Date: May 03, 2006
Yep. Got the same on my HS (RV-10). Mine are symmetrical, so looks purposeful. My luck. Not sure how it'll be filled. Good question. John Jessen (Tailcone) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marc and Kathy Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 6:07 AM Subject: RV-List: Dents in the HS skin Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are suggestions on how to fix it? The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line. This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and only to the nose ribs. I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward about 1/8 of an inch. I'm confident that this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting. Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting? Has anyone else seen this? I could e-mail pictures if needed. Thanks for the help. Marc Hudson marcandkathy.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Painting on the cheap
From: "Scooter" <yakk52(at)verizon.net>
Date: May 03, 2006
I'd like to get some advice on painting an aircraft. I'm actually from a neighboring forum (Yak-52) but those guys seem to have much more money than I do so a $9000 paint job doesn't seem to bother them much. I don't need a show quality paint job. Any advice would be appreciated. Brand, type paint and sprayer model. I've also got fabric surfaces and have heard varied advice on how to paint those. Thanks. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32588#32588 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2006
From: wfinnell(at)earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Dents in the HS skin
John, I am sorry; I dont have any advice for you. I am just starting on my HS and was wondering if you could send me the photos so I can see what I have to look forward to? Bill Finnell RV-8 Emp wfinnell(at)earthlink.net -----Original Message----- >From: Marc and Kathy <marchudson(at)comcast.net> >Sent: May 3, 2006 6:07 AM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Dents in the HS skin > > >Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are suggestions >on how to fix it? > > > >The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and produce >a dent in the skins on the rivet line. > >This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and only >to the nose ribs. > >I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward about 1/8 >of an inch. I'm confident that > >this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting. > > > >Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting? > > > >Has anyone else seen this? > > > >I could e-mail pictures if needed. > > > >Thanks for the help. > > > >Marc Hudson > >marcandkathy.com > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Painting on the cheap
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 03, 2006
Scooter wrote: > I'd like to get some advice on painting an aircraft..... I don't need a show quality paint job. Any advice would be appreciated. Brand, type paint and sprayer model. I've also got fabric surfaces and have heard varied advice on how to paint those. Thanks. There are any number of sources of information at your disposal. For some paint related queries, why not simply direct your questions towards a professionally recognized source? Many of my aircraft painting questions were (and are) professionally answered by contacting Deborah Akey toll free at (800) 357-3738. Debbie is Branch Manager at Aero Performance located in Hangar 10 at the St. Louis Downtown Parks Airport in Cahokia, Il. She and her staff are expert in providing the potential customer with correct information while discussing the recommended application procedures for the line of Sherwin-Williams Jet-Glo and Acry-Glo products they distribute. Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 123 hours Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32608#32608 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2006
Subject: Re: Painting on the cheap
From: "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com>
I bought the Sam Jones video, Aircraft Painting 101. It covers everything you need to know. Also, if you are suffering from insomnia, put this tape on. You will go right to sleep. http://www.buildersbooks.com/Painting101.htm?29,43 Smittys RV-9A http://SmittysRV.com > > > Scooter wrote: >> I'd like to get some advice on painting an aircraft..... I don't need a >> show quality paint job. Any advice would be appreciated. Brand, type >> paint and sprayer model. I've also got fabric surfaces and have heard >> varied advice on how to paint those. Thanks. > > > There are any number of sources of information at your disposal. For some > paint related queries, why not simply direct your questions towards a > professionally recognized source? > Many of my aircraft painting questions were (and are) professionally > answered by contacting Deborah Akey toll free at (800) 357-3738. Debbie > is Branch Manager at Aero Performance located in Hangar 10 at the St. > Louis Downtown Parks Airport in Cahokia, Il. She and her staff are expert > in providing the potential customer with correct information while > discussing the recommended application procedures for the line of > Sherwin-Williams Jet-Glo and Acry-Glo products they distribute. > > Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 123 hours > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32608#32608 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2006
Subject: Re: Dents in the HS skin
From: "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com>
Hi Marc, It looks like your RV-10 HS is very similar to my RV-9A HS. I had the same issue on the HS. It seems that when one side of the skin gets riveted to the rib, the opposite side will look distorted when riveted. I riveted the top skin to the rib first and then the bottom skin to the rib. The top looks good and the bottom is distorted. It's what on top that counts, I guess. Here's my entry about that situation: http://www.smittysrv.com/more_stuff.asp?ID=231 Smittys RV-9A http://SmittysRV.com > > John, > > I am sorry; I dont have any advice for you. I am just starting on my HS > and was wondering if you could send me the photos so I can see what I have > to look forward to? > > Bill Finnell RV-8 Emp > wfinnell(at)earthlink.net > > > -----Original Message----- >>From: Marc and Kathy <marchudson(at)comcast.net> >>Sent: May 3, 2006 6:07 AM >>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: RV-List: Dents in the HS skin >> >> >>Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are >> suggestions >>on how to fix it? >> >> >> >>The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and >> produce >>a dent in the skins on the rivet line. >> >>This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and >> only >>to the nose ribs. >> >>I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward about >> 1/8 >>of an inch. I'm confident that >> >>this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting. >> >> >> >>Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting? >> >> >> >>Has anyone else seen this? >> >> >> >>I could e-mail pictures if needed. >> >> >> >>Thanks for the help. >> >> >> >>Marc Hudson >> >>marcandkathy.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2006
From: "Scott Farner" <sfarner(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Alternator pulley and flywheel misalignment
Listers, I was installing the alternator (60 amp from Van's) on my IO-390 using the supplied bracket and noticed that the alternator pulley is offset about 5/16" forward of the flywheel. The bracket also overhangs the boss mount on the engine by about this amount, and there is the same deal on the bracket connecting the alternator to the starter. Here is a picture of what I am talking about: www.scottfarner.com/altflywheel.JPG Anybody run in to this problem and come up with a fix? Thanks, Scott Farner www.scottfarner.com RV-7A Engine ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV Sissies (Was: First Flight)
From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 03, 2006
First off, hello, I'm new to the list, actually a cross over from the kitfox list. I fly currently a kitfox IV speedster 912, TAILWHEEL airplane over 400 hours in type. I'm building an RV7A, WHAT!!! Sorry, I want my kids and wife to learn how to fly this airplane, I want to fly all over this wonderful country, I want affordable insurance, I want to see where I'm going on the ground. Did I mention, I'm no weenie. Did I mention the airforce fighter pilots are not weenies. They started making planes with a nose gear for the women pilots in the airforce. Ya right, that's why we have Capt malachowski flying no.3 in delta formation, 18 inches from another airplane, ya right, like to see you do this. I'm sure the wheel in the front doesn't matter, in fact it's tucked up inside during this time. I'm sure the nose wheel was put on military aircraft for a reason, oh, try for landing on a carrier. and many other reasons. I'm sure millions of dollars on one aircraft sums it up. sure I like my td kitfox, I let an rv8 pilot try to land my fox, I ended up taking over, he couldn't do it. I have landed my kitfox with over 12knt direct cross winds, but I cheated, went cross runway, did I wimp out, I don't think so, I still have an airplane to fly. Sure I'm going to get it for building an rv7a, but I don't care, it's my airplane, and it will be a pretty one, oh, is that being a weenie also, me calling my 7a pretty. don't know, don't care. Ain't this fun!!! :D kitfoxmike -------- kitfoxmike kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32635#32635 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2006
From: <erichweaver(at)cox.net>
Subject: alternator pulley and flywheel misalignment
Cc: RV-List Digest Server Scott: Hope I dont insult your intellignece here, but make sure the ring gear/prop flange is oriented on the mounting bushings correctly and is firmly pressed into place. One of the mounting bushings is slightly oversized, so it only fits correctly when you have the bushings in the correct hole. Took me awhile to realize that. Once I got it on correctly, I found the small index marks that indicate how they line up....Duhhhhh! . And then, voila! - my alternator pulley instantly came into the proper alignment. If you have already taken all this into account, you need someone smarter than me regards Erich Weaver ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Painting on the cheap
Date: May 03, 2006
This site is about auto painting but much info you can use for painting your airplane. http://www.paintucation.com/ Dale Ensing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 2006
Subject: formation clinic
Fellow listers, Are there any pilots interested in getting together to try and set up a clinic in the Denver CO. area? As you read Stu McCurdy will be here for the RMRFI flyin and If any are interested we could talk to him them. Stewart Bergner RV-4 colorado ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: Dents in the HS skin
Date: May 03, 2006
> Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are suggestions > on how to fix it? The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line....... I'm confident that this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting........Has anyone else seen this?....... There is a lot of info on the web about this. Randy Pflanzer has taken a lot of time to give us some of his tips on building. He has built several RV empennages (and several planes) and his website gives the techniques he uses: http://www.pflanzer-aviation.com/Hstab2.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2006
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator pulley and flywheel misalignment
Scott Farner wrote: > >Listers, > >I was installing the alternator (60 amp from Van's) on my IO-390 using the >supplied bracket and noticed that the alternator pulley is offset about >5/16" forward of the flywheel. The bracket also overhangs the boss mount on >the engine by about this amount, and there is the same deal on the bracket >connecting the alternator to the starter. > >Here is a picture of what I am talking about: > >www.scottfarner.com/altflywheel.JPG > >Anybody run in to this problem and come up with a fix? > >Thanks, > >Scott Farner >www.scottfarner.com >RV-7A Engine > > > > > On the IO 390 is the alternator mounted on the opposite side of what it is mounted on a O-360? I know that on my airplane the alternator is on the right side of the engine looking from cockpit. Maybe the difference? Or is your mount made for a IO-390? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator pulley and flywheel misalignment
Date: May 03, 2006
> On the IO 390 is the alternator mounted on the opposite side of what it > is mounted on a O-360? > I know that on my airplane the alternator is on the right side of the > engine looking from cockpit. > Maybe the difference? Or is your mount made for a IO-390? Looks like Scott's photo was from the bottom looking up. And to the previous poster, if the flywheel weren't engaged fully with the prop flange bushings, he would have the opposite problem. Scott, I wish I had some advice for you.other than...it looks like that alternator/bracket setup isn't gonna work (duh, sorry to state the obvious). FWIW, the B&C alternator & bracket worked out of the box on my IO-360-A1B6 (which I believe is the same external form factor as your case). On that setup the alternator goes on the "inside" of the bracket. http://rvimg.com/images/2003/20030720_alternator_in_place.jpg I assume you could fabricate a similar U bracket to work with your setup, but you may not be able to use the cross brace to the starter. Hopefully somebody out there who used Van's alternator on an angle valve engine can come up with something simple. Otherwise you could always just go with a tried and true B&C... ;-) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (888 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2006
From: Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dents in the HS skin
Marc I have similar results. I suspect that my rib flanges were too square and did not fit the skin taper properly. I re-did my VS ribs at a relaxed angle to fit the skin tapper closely and the results were improved. Marc and Kathy wrote: Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are suggestions on how to fix it? Sherman Butler RV-7a Wings Idaho Falls --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2006
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Firesleeving
Ralph, I wouldn't waste money buying "special" fire sleeve for the transducer. Take some fire sleeve, cut a a 8" long length & slit it lengthwise. Wrap it around the transducer, seal it and clamp it with the appropriate clamps. Charlie Kuss > >Thanks to Ross for the info.... > >Jerry's correct and the size they recommend for the >flowmeter/transducer is -24 which ACS does not carry. > >Anyone got a foot of -24 kicking around? > >Either I was looking at the wrong page (likely) or ACS updated their >website...... > >Ralph > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Jerry Grimmonpre <jerry(at)mc.net> > >Sent: May 3, 2006 12:19 AM > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Firesleeving > > > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" > > > >AFP recommends firesleeve on the flow meter/transducer. > >Jerry Grimmonpre' > >RV8A Electrical > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Ross Scroggs" <rv4ross(at)charter.net> > >To: ; ; > > > >Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 9:47 PM > >Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Firesleeving > > > > > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Ross Scroggs" > >> > >> Ralph, > >> According to the ACS catalog, page 122, the 303-4 hose uses > AE102-9, the > >> 303-6 uses > >> AE102-12. Both firesleeve's use the 900591B-2C clamp. > >> Don't think I've ever seen firesleeve on a flow meter/transducer. > >> > >> Ross Scroggs > >> RV-4 #3911 > >> Locust Grove, GA. > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> > >> To: ; ; > >> > >> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 9:38 AM > >> Subject: RV-List: Firesleeving > >> > >> > >>> > >>> Folks, > >>> > >>>>From what I've seen, most folks are not firesleeving their oil cooler > >>>>feed/return/pressure lines nor their fuel pressure line which I'm OK > >>>>with. > >>> > >>> Fuel feed/return lines I think need to be firesleeved..... > >>> > >>> I'm having a problem determining what size firesleeve to use. The ACS > >>> website has a table for their firesleeve parts which does not list the > >>> 303 hose that we're supposed to use. > >>> > >>> I'm getting ready to buy the stuff to build my fuel hoses - > including the > >>> firesleeving. I'll be building an assembly that includes a > pair of hoses > >>> and a fuel flow meter - I'm guessing that I'll need a larger chunk of > >>> firesleeve to go over the flow meter. > >>> > >>> Can anyone tell me what the correct size of Firesleeving is for a 303-4, > >>> 303-6, and Flowscan 201 fuel flow meter? > >>> > >>> Thanks, > >>> Ralph > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > >> http://wiki.matronics.com > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator pulley and flywheel misalignment
Date: May 03, 2006
I ran into the same problem last week with my RV 7A with a superior io 360. I cut a spacer out of 1/4" aluminum stock to fill the gap --- it worked just fine. Check the length of the bolt to make sure you have enough threads for a good grip -- you may need to get a longer bolt -- mine fit fine. I note that others have made a double bend (an "S") in the brace to accommodate the gap. Dave@ RAL On May 3, 2006, at 3:11 PM, Scott Farner wrote: > > Listers, > > I was installing the alternator (60 amp from Van's) on my IO-390 > using the > supplied bracket and noticed that the alternator pulley is offset > about > 5/16" forward of the flywheel. The bracket also overhangs the boss > mount on > the engine by about this amount, and there is the same deal on the > bracket > connecting the alternator to the starter. > > Here is a picture of what I am talking about: > > www.scottfarner.com/altflywheel.JPG > > Anybody run in to this problem and come up with a fix? > > Thanks, > > Scott Farner > www.scottfarner.com > RV-7A Engine > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Firesleeving
Date: May 03, 2006
Is anyone firesleeving the aluminum lines on the engine side of the firewall? -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 8:18 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Firesleeving Ralph, I wouldn't waste money buying "special" fire sleeve for the transducer. Take some fire sleeve, cut a a 8" long length & slit it lengthwise. Wrap it around the transducer, seal it and clamp it with the appropriate clamps. Charlie Kuss > >Thanks to Ross for the info.... > >Jerry's correct and the size they recommend for the >flowmeter/transducer is -24 which ACS does not carry. > >Anyone got a foot of -24 kicking around? > >Either I was looking at the wrong page (likely) or ACS updated their >website...... > >Ralph > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Jerry Grimmonpre <jerry(at)mc.net> > >Sent: May 3, 2006 12:19 AM > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Firesleeving > > > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" > > > >AFP recommends firesleeve on the flow meter/transducer. > >Jerry Grimmonpre' > >RV8A Electrical > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Ross Scroggs" <rv4ross(at)charter.net> > >To: ; ; > > > >Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 9:47 PM > >Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Firesleeving > > > > > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Ross Scroggs" > >> > >> Ralph, > >> According to the ACS catalog, page 122, the 303-4 hose uses > AE102-9, the > >> 303-6 uses > >> AE102-12. Both firesleeve's use the 900591B-2C clamp. > >> Don't think I've ever seen firesleeve on a flow meter/transducer. > >> > >> Ross Scroggs > >> RV-4 #3911 > >> Locust Grove, GA. > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> > >> To: ; ; > >> > >> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 9:38 AM > >> Subject: RV-List: Firesleeving > >> > >> > >>> > >>> > >>> Folks, > >>> > >>>>From what I've seen, most folks are not firesleeving their oil cooler > >>>>feed/return/pressure lines nor their fuel pressure line which I'm OK > >>>>with. > >>> > >>> Fuel feed/return lines I think need to be firesleeved..... > >>> > >>> I'm having a problem determining what size firesleeve to use. The ACS > >>> website has a table for their firesleeve parts which does not list the > >>> 303 hose that we're supposed to use. > >>> > >>> I'm getting ready to buy the stuff to build my fuel hoses - > including the > >>> firesleeving. I'll be building an assembly that includes a > pair of hoses > >>> and a fuel flow meter - I'm guessing that I'll need a larger chunk of > >>> firesleeve to go over the flow meter. > >>> > >>> Can anyone tell me what the correct size of Firesleeving is for a > >>> 303-4, > >>> 303-6, and Flowscan 201 fuel flow meter? > >>> > >>> Thanks, > >>> Ralph > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > >> http://wiki.matronics.com > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 2006
Subject: Re: Sissies Kit Fox Pilots
In a message dated 5/3/2006 5:46:55 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com writes: Sure I'm going to get it for building an rv7a, but I don't care, it's my airplane, and it will be a pretty one, oh, is that being a weenie also, me calling my 7a pretty. don't know, don't care. Ain't this fun!!! :D ============================================ I wasn't always a nose gear weenie and flew my old Kitfox Model 1 TD (N89GV) with Rotax 532 for 450 hours back in the early to mid '90s, before I sold it to finish construction of my current 6A. I also flew it unaccompanied to OSH '92 from California and back (58 hours RT), flying and landing in all kinds of conditions. Many I met along the way that were flying the bigger iron couldn't believe I was crossing the country in that little thing. You'll love your RV even more, I guarantee it. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 780hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2006
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: Firesleeving
On 05/03 9:08, Bill VonDane wrote: > Is anyone firesleeving the aluminum lines on the engine side of the > firewall? Heck, I even firesleeve my electrical runs, and my throttle, prop and mixture cables firewall forward. It may be overkill but then again it may be underkill. :) -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com Flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator pulley and flywheel misalignment
Date: May 03, 2006
Scott: I just took another look at your picture. I thought you were referring to the gap and not the misalignment. It looks like your ring gear is pushed all the way on and sets inside of the alt pulley. I just looked at mine. Your 60 amp alt looks a bit different than mine and protrudes further forward from the mounting boss. You might want to give Vans a call. Sorry dave On May 3, 2006, at 8:13 PM, Dave Cudney wrote: > > I ran into the same problem last week with my RV 7A with a superior > io 360. > I cut a spacer out of 1/4" aluminum stock to fill the gap --- it > worked just fine. Check > the length of the bolt to make sure you have enough threads for a > good grip -- > you may need to get a longer bolt -- mine fit fine. I note that > others have made a > double bend (an "S") in the brace to accommodate the gap. > > Dave@ RAL > > On May 3, 2006, at 3:11 PM, Scott Farner wrote: > > >> >> Listers, >> >> I was installing the alternator (60 amp from Van's) on my IO-390 >> using the >> supplied bracket and noticed that the alternator pulley is offset >> about >> 5/16" forward of the flywheel. The bracket also overhangs the boss >> mount on >> the engine by about this amount, and there is the same deal on the >> bracket >> connecting the alternator to the starter. >> >> Here is a picture of what I am talking about: >> >> www.scottfarner.com/altflywheel.JPG >> >> Anybody run in to this problem and come up with a fix? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Scott Farner >> www.scottfarner.com >> RV-7A Engine >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2006
From: "Scott Farner" <sfarner(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Alternator pulley and flywheel misalignment SOLVED
Hey guys, Thanks for all of the responses. I came up with a low cost (well, zero cost since I had all of the materials) solution that only took an hour or so to finish. Basically, what I did was flip Van's alternator bracket around and fabricat e a new bolt mount from some angle stock. I put together the procedures on my web site for reference. www.scottfarner.com/showpage.asp?date=3D5/3/2006 Scott On 5/3/06, Dave Cudney wrote: > > > Scott: > > I just took another look at your picture. I thought you were > referring to the > gap and not the misalignment. It looks like your ring gear is > pushed all the way on and sets inside of the alt pulley. I just > looked at mine. > Your 60 amp alt looks a bit different than mine and protrudes further > forward from > the mounting boss. You might want to give Vans a call. > > Sorry > dave > > On May 3, 2006, at 8:13 PM, Dave Cudney wrote: > > > > > I ran into the same problem last week with my RV 7A with a superior > > io 360. > > I cut a spacer out of 1/4" aluminum stock to fill the gap --- it > > worked just fine. Check > > the length of the bolt to make sure you have enough threads for a > > good grip -- > > you may need to get a longer bolt -- mine fit fine. I note that > > others have made a > > double bend (an "S") in the brace to accommodate the gap. > > > > Dave@ RAL > > > > On May 3, 2006, at 3:11 PM, Scott Farner wrote: > > > > > >> > >> Listers, > >> > >> I was installing the alternator (60 amp from Van's) on my IO-390 > >> using the > >> supplied bracket and noticed that the alternator pulley is offset > >> about > >> 5/16" forward of the flywheel. The bracket also overhangs the boss > >> mount on > >> the engine by about this amount, and there is the same deal on the > >> bracket > >> connecting the alternator to the starter. > >> > >> Here is a picture of what I am talking about: > >> > >> www.scottfarner.com/altflywheel.JPG > >> > >> Anybody run in to this problem and come up with a fix? > >> > >> Thanks, > >> > >> Scott Farner > >> www.scottfarner.com > >> RV-7A Engine > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: Firesleeving
Date: May 04, 2006
----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 10:08 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Firesleeving > > Is anyone firesleeving the aluminum lines on the engine side of the > firewall? > > -Bill > > Yes I have. Think of having a fire on engine side of FW. What would I not want to melt/burn through in the 3-4 minutes it takes to get back to firma eartha. The only down side to over firesleeving is it will collect oil over time. Therefore it should be replaced ever so often to get rid of the torch material. Larry in Indiana ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2006
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Updated Bag Content LIst needed
Listers, Does anyone have a copy of the BAG CONTENT LIST which comes with the empennage kit? Mine is from 1997. I did a quick search of Vans site, but couldn't find it on line. Charlie Kuss ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Oil dip stick housing length
>I need to know the oil dip stick "housing" length to fit under the 7 cowl. >As noted, this is for an O-360 A1A. I'm going by the salvage yard today and >the guys has probably 10-12 different lengths. Dana I hurried. Did not stop to eat breakfast first. Sure am hungry now. But then I am a sissy pilot. On my RV-6A and O-360A type engine I measure my dipstick housing to be 6.25 " long. The Dipstick adds about 0.75" to overall system length. From the bottom of the dipstick housing to the cowl is around 14.5". My housing is too short and I have to use a funnel to add oil. If I were to replace it, here is my reasoning: 14.5" available distance minus 0.5" measuring uncertainty minus 0.75" for the dipstick minus 1" for clearance equals 12.25" dipstick housing length. You could probably go as low as around 11" and still add oil without any funnel/oil can extension and 2" (about 10" long) and use one of those 3" On/OFF screw on extensions. Hopefully others will have time to critique my thinking. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2006
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Updated Bag Content LIst needed
Hey Charlie, Look here http://www.vansairforce.net/PartsBags/partsbags.htm Darrell Charlie Kuss wrote: Listers, Does anyone have a copy of the BAG CONTENT LIST which comes with the empennage kit? Mine is from 1997. I did a quick search of Vans site, but couldn't find it on line. Charlie Kuss --------------------------------- Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone calls to 30+ countries for just 2/min with ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 2006
Subject: Re: Oil dip stick housing length
In a message dated 5/4/06 8:20:02 AM Central Daylight Time, ronlee(at)pcisys.net writes: > >I need to know the oil dip stick "housing" length to fit under the 7 cowl. > >As noted, this is for an O-360 A1A. I'm going by the salvage yard today > and > >the guys has probably 10-12 different lengths. >>>> If you wind up with too short a tube, here's one way to ease stick removal & replacement: http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5311 Still need a funnel, but this puppy only gets one quart between 40 hr changes, so it ain't too bad. Don't forget to calibrate your stick on initial fill-up regardless of what stick/tube combination you wind up with... >From The PossumWorks in TN Mark Phillips ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sissies Kit Fox Pilots
From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 04, 2006
sissy kitfox pilots, I hope you are kidding :D , how did I come up with weenie, only thing I could come up with for opposite of manly without offending anybody. [Question] by the way this sissy kitfox pilot flies out of a class c airspace and generally during busy time, dodging 757's , 737's and dash 8's. No sissy in anybodies book [Shocked] I truelly believe that all pilots should get a tail wheel endorsement. I watch many times when people in tri gear land and it does amaze me how many will be crooked when setting down. Just last week I witnessed a mooney make 5 touchdowns and then went sideways throwing more smoke than a 737, luckly he got it straightened out. Then a couple days later a 210 used all 9000 ft. to land bouncing all the way down, the tower replied by saying, is there any problems I need to know about. Sure both pilots might just be a little rusty from the winter. I think this whole thread is fun. It brings out the joking that I feel is lost in flying. Most people take things so serious, and clam up when really expressing feelings for procedures. kitfoxmike -------- kitfoxmike kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32755#32755 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2006
From: "Scott Farner" <sfarner(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Alternator pulley and flywheel misalignment SOLVED
Hey guys, Thanks for all of the responses. I came up with a low cost (well, zero cost since I had all of the materials) solution that only took an hour or so to finish. Basically, what I did was flip Van's alternator bracket around and fabricat e a new bolt mount from some angle stock. I put together the procedures on my web site for reference. www.scottfarner.com/showpage.asp?date=3D5/3/2006 Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael" <cubflyr(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Removing the prop (spool)
Date: May 04, 2006
Sometimes I wished I smoked. Then, when something was just beyond my present state of thinking, I could just sit back, roll a cigarette and let a solution appear out of the smoke. But I don't smoke. SO: a question to the list: removing the prop. Actually just the spool from the flange as the prop can stay attached (it's alternator belt changing time). The spool is pretty well wedged onto the crankshaft prop flange. I can think of ways to get it off but they all sound scary, including using the flange bolts with a brass rod between them and the ends of the prop bolts, and pushing the spool off as the bolts are inched out, going round and round. Sounds like it might put too much stress on the prop flange "nuts". Any ideas? Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2006
From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 39 Msgs - 05/03/06
Hi Bill- >Is anyone firesleeving the aluminum lines on the engine side of the >firewall? > >-Bill Yup- I've firesleeved all the fluid lines, save the already-installed prop oil line. If nothing else, firesleeving the Al lines should help with vapor lock issues. That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it! GM Glen Matejcek ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2006
From: "Scott Farner" <sfarner(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator pulley and flywheel misalignment SOLVED
Sorry, link should have been www.scottfarner.com/showpage.asp?date=3D5/3/2006 Scott On 5/4/06, Scott Farner wrote: > > > Hey guys, > > Thanks for all of the responses. I came up with a low cost (well, zero > cost > since I had all of the materials) solution that only took an hour or so t o > finish. > > Basically, what I did was flip Van's alternator bracket around and > fabricat=3D > e > a new bolt mount from some angle stock. > > I put together the procedures on my web site for reference. > > www.scottfarner.com/showpage.asp?date=3D3D5/3/2006 > > Scott > > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2006
From: Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator pulley and flywheel misalignment SOLVED
How about: http://www.scottfarner.com/showpage.asp?date=5/3/2006 (hopefully no "3D") Dick Tasker Scott Farner wrote: > >Sorry, link should have been > >www.scottfarner.com/showpage.asp?date=3D5/3/2006 > >Scott > > >On 5/4/06, Scott Farner wrote: > > >> >>Hey guys, >> >>Thanks for all of the responses. I came up with a low cost (well, zero >>cost >>since I had all of the materials) solution that only took an hour or so t >> >> >o > > >>finish. >> >>Basically, what I did was flip Van's alternator bracket around and >>fabricat=3D >>e >>a new bolt mount from some angle stock. >> >>I put together the procedures on my web site for reference. >> >>www.scottfarner.com/showpage.asp?date=3D3D5/3/2006 >> >>Scott >> >> >> >> >> >> >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Ross" <dcr(at)fdltownhomes.com>
Subject: RV-9A Battery Location
Date: May 04, 2006
Guys: Anyone out there with a -9A and O-360 w/ fixed pitched prop, where did you locate your battery? I expect to use the Odyssey 680 and I want to reinforce the floor where the battery will be while the canoe is easily accessible. Dan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com>
Subject: Tri gear VS tail dragger
Date: May 04, 2006
Well, I took 2 lessons in a Chief, my head was jambed against the ceiling and the plane had a 120 hp engine and with trim pulled full aft, I was pulling the yoke into my chest on every landing. I said the hell with it, Im buying a tri gear. I have friends who destroyed a tail dragger trying to learn. I have gotten Tweetybird down in swinging 90 deg x-wind gusting from 22 to 30k. At the time I had about 10 hrs in her, Wind had come up out of nowere. I would have nerver tried the stupid across the runway landing that was resently bragged about. Its got to be a load of crapp! I will admitt, I was scarred shitless, but did suck up a lot of seat. I pranged her on I admit, lucky the prop didnt dig in. I got my Pvt in 66 in Cherokee 140 in OKC Will Rogers, so knew about wind at the time. I stayed out for 35 yrs, so was sorta green, but the old training kicked in. Im sure many of you can relate. Charlie Heatho. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2006
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Tri gear VS tail dragger
Hey Charlie: I'll bite, what is this all about. I gather you are going to buy a Trike. I feel you are justifying you decision. If you are more comfortable in a trike, than that is cool. However is it necessary to bash a conventional gear plane to justify your decision. The items you mention as reasons are not relevant or clear, to me at least. What does your friend have to do with it? What does a Chief and trim have to do with it? Not all planes fly like a Chief, which I have no time in, but have time in about 8 taildraggers including a Cub and over 1000 hours in RV's, plus 11,000 hrs in "Trikes" Your Chief experience just sounded weird to me? You mention yoke full back. Comment? It takes what it takes. Don't you land with the stick back in a RV-A? Not full but back. You want to land nose up. The landing attitude at touch down between a RV and RV-A are very similar (identical?), nose up at least slightly. Some RV's are nose heavy and need full nose-up trim landing. I'm not sure what you mean about across the runway landing? I am guessing you are talking about landing width wise on a runway? Well I fly for the airlines and 150 ft width is common. I am not sure I would try 150 ft in my RV, even in a stiff wind. However most GA runways are only 20-100 feet wide. Even more sporty. Either find a different runway or go to another airport if the X-wind is that bad. It sounds like you where out of flying for a while and you learned in 1966 in a Trike. There is nothing wrong with a Trike and if you want one than build it or buy it. Just not sure what this is about. You said you landed a TweetyBird in 22-30 kt direct cross winds. That is pretty good. What is a tweetybird? I have had my RV in about 20 kts X wind component in gusty conditions. However you'll start dragging stuff at 25-30kts, unless you crab and use a combo part side slip and kick it straight from a slight crab. It does not matter Taildragger or Trike, a RV is a RV and has the same X-wind component. If anyone has some reason (Aerodynamics or Physics) that a Trike or Taildragger should be more or less capable X-wind wise I would love to hear it. In my experience landing in strong X-winds in a RV-4 there was no control problem. In fact with tail wheel steering I think it is easier to taxi a RV in wind than a RV-A because of the swivel nose wheel and need to drag bakes. However Charles go buy that Trike and enjoy. Don't worry about it, but leave my beloved Tail Draggers alone they are fine for me. :-) Cheers George ATP/CFI >From: "charles heathco" <cheathco(at)junct.com> > >Well, I took 2 lessons in a Chief, my head was jambed against the >ceiling and the plane had a 120 hp engine and with trim pulled full >aft, I was pulling the yoke into my chest on every landing. I said the hell >with it, Im buying a tri gear. I have friends who destroyed a tail >dragger trying to learn. I have gotten Tweetybird down in swinging 90 >deg x-wind gusting from 22 to 30k. At the time I had about 10 hrs in >her, Wind had come up out of nowere. I would have nerver tried the >stupid across the runway landing that was resently bragged about. Its >got to be a load of crapp! I will admitt, I was scarred shitless, but >did suck up a lot of seat. I pranged her on I admit, lucky the prop >didnt dig in. I got my Pvt in 66 in Cherokee 140 in OKC Will Rogers, so >knew about wind at the time. I stayed out for 35 yrs, so was sorta >green, but the old training kicked in. Im sure many of you can relate. > >Charlie Heatho. --------------------------------- Blab-away for as little as 1/min. Make PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "NEIL HENDERSON" <neil459(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Flying without a Joy Stick
Date: May 05, 2006
RVatiors My RV9-A was being landed from the RH seat. You can imagine the horror when the joy stick came out of it's socket at the most critical moment, just as we were rounding out. I'll leave the result to your imagination surfice it to say we were very lucky to walk away without a scratch. I'd only recently compleated repairing a wing following a bird strike and after only 6 hours in the air it's now grounded again for at least 6 months. I've come to the conclusion that maybe aviatation and I don't mix . I think I'll pack it in and take up stamp collecting. Clearly it would make sense for anyone flying a 7 or 9 to ensure that their stick is securely fixed particularly if it's being used during a critical flight phase. Neil Henderson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2006
From: gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Flying without a Joy Stick
Holy Smokes, Neil Sorry to hear about your misfortune, but I am darn happy you are here to tell us about it!!! Gert NEIL HENDERSON wrote: > > RVatiors > > My RV9-A was being landed from the RH seat. You can imagine the horror > when the joy stick came out of it's socket at the most critical moment, > just as we were rounding out. I'll leave the result to your imagination > surfice it to say we were very lucky to walk away without a scratch. > I'd only recently compleated repairing a wing following a bird strike > and after only 6 hours in the air it's now grounded again for at least 6 > months. I've come to the conclusion that maybe aviatation and I don't > mix . I think I'll pack it in and take up stamp collecting. > > Clearly it would make sense for anyone flying a 7 or 9 to ensure that > their stick is securely fixed particularly if it's being used during a > critical flight phase. > > > Neil Henderson > > > > > > > > -- ------------------------------------------------------------------- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. -------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Rebel's Bluff fly-in
Date: May 05, 2006
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Guys, Don't forget the Rebel's Bluff RV and Rocket fly-in tomorrow (Saturday, May 6) near Mount Vernon, MO just west of Springfield, MO Contact Les Featherston at Morocketman(at)aol.com or 417-466-3340 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Flying without a Joy Stick
>My RV9-A was being landed from the RH seat. You can imagine the horror >when the joy stick came out of it's socket at the most critical moment, >just as we were rounding out. Please clarify. In my 6A there is a clevis pin secured by a lock pin. If those are not in properly what you described could happen. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Garmin GNS430 / GI106A wiring diagrams
From: Bruce Uvanni <buvanni(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: May 05, 2006
I'm look for the wiring diagrams for the Garmin GNS430 (GPS NAV/COM) and GI 106A (course indicator) Neither one is on the Garmin web site. Anyone out there know where to get a copy of these??? BRUCE A. UVANNI BUVANNI(at)US.IBM.COM RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Garmin GNS430 / GI106A wiring diagrams
Date: May 05, 2006
Bruce, The Aeroelectric Connection web site has a number of wiring and pin out diagrams. Good luck, Steve Soule -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Uvanni Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 11:18 AM Subject: RV-List: Garmin GNS430 / GI106A wiring diagrams I'm look for the wiring diagrams for the Garmin GNS430 (GPS NAV/COM) and GI 106A (course indicator) Neither one is on the Garmin web site. Anyone out there know where to get a copy of these??? BRUCE A. UVANNI BUVANNI(at)US.IBM.COM RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Garmin GNS430 / GI106A wiring diagrams
Date: May 05, 2006
You can also download the manuals from Mid Continent (who doesn't treat them as double secret) directly from their website....at least for the indicators. It's the same as the MD-200-306. Also, just be somewhat carefull of people who have them stored on their websites, etc.. Some of them are current, but some of them are not. Many of them floating around electronically are 3+ years old. Like I said, some of them are still current, but some are not. Things like the GTX-330 have changed a bit in the past year. Cheers, Stein. >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Uvanni >Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 10:18 AM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Garmin GNS430 / GI106A wiring diagrams > > >I'm look for the wiring diagrams for the Garmin GNS430 (GPS NAV/COM) and >GI 106A (course indicator) >Neither one is on the Garmin web site. Anyone out there know where to get >a copy of these??? > > >BRUCE A. UVANNI BUVANNI(at)US.IBM.COM >RV6A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tri gear VS tail dragger
From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com>
Date: May 05, 2006
First off, what's a chief??? :? If it's small like my kitfox than I guess maybe you need a bigger aircraft, like lets say a maule. I've flown a maule and it's much easier to handle and it's big inside over my kitfox. I've pondered over tail wheel or tri, I have the solution for me. Keep the fox and have an rv7a. When I want to get wild and crazy, I'll take up the kitfox. If I want to get wild and crazy, I'll take up the rv7a. I don't think it matters any. I'm sure each one will have its own tickle spot. Of course what will probably happen is I'll put floats on the fox and enjoy that world as well. I don't think any certain airplane much matters as long as YOU are enjoying what you have. One thing for certain, DON'T own an aircraft that somebody else wants, own what YOU want. [Wink] kitfoxmike -------- kitfoxmike kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33067#33067 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Barrow" <bobbarrow10(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 39 Msgs - 05/03/06
Date: May 06, 2006
> My aluminum lines stop at the firewall fitting. I presume that you're only talking about fuel lines here...not oil lines. _________________________________________________________________ New year, new job there's more than 100,00 jobs at SEEK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Barrow" <bobbarrow10(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Firesleeving
Date: May 06, 2006
Hi there Walter, you're setting a good example. I note that many RV builders do not firesleeve the oil lines between the engine and the oil cooler...that's just slack (or uneducated) ...and dangerous. You said you firesleeved everything....but I'll bet you didn't....I'll bet you didn't firesleeve the aluminium oil lines that run from the cylinder heads back to the sump. I've never seen those done. > > >On 05/03 9:08, Bill VonDane wrote: > > > Is anyone firesleeving the aluminum lines on the engine side of the > > firewall? > >Heck, I even firesleeve my electrical runs, and my throttle, prop >and mixture cables firewall forward. It may be overkill but then again >it may be underkill. :) _________________________________________________________________ Play Music Trivia for your chance to win 2 VIP tickets to the 2006 Splendour in the Grass festival at Byron Bay. Go now! http://ninemsn.com.au/share/redir/adTrack.asp?mode=click&clientID=690&referral=hotmailtagline&URL=http://competitions.ninemsn.com.au/treasurehunt/hunt15.asp ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2006
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: Firesleeving
On 05/06 12:37, Bob Barrow wrote: > Hi there Walter, you're setting a good example. I note that many RV builders > do not firesleeve the oil lines between the engine and the oil > cooler...that's just slack (or uneducated) ...and dangerous. > > You said you firesleeved everything....but I'll bet you didn't....I'll bet > you didn't firesleeve the aluminium oil lines that run from the cylinder > heads back to the sump. I've never seen those done. Your right, I didn't firesleeve those lines. I don't have the specs handy on those lines but if memory serves me those are some beefy little suckers. I'll check tomorrow to what they are exactly. I'm thinking that they probably really don't need the added protection, but I may be wrong... Good catch. -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com Flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2006
From: bertrv6(at)highstream.net
Subject: Re: Platenut Life
Quoting Fiveonepw(at)aol.com: > > Hi Michael- > > I know this will start a storm of incandescent blowtorches from listers, but > in MY experience, FWIW, I tapped every freakin' platenut on my plane and have > never, I repeat NEVER experienced a single one of them loosening as a result- > YMMV, but I must have installed 500 of the freakin' things (all floorboards, > tanks, interior panels, wingroot fairings, baggage bulkhead etc.) and would > do > it again in a heartbeat. > > And by the way- my name is PHILLIPS and if there is ANY way I can avoid a > PHILLIPS screw, it shall be done- I've used the torx fasteners from > microfasterners.com with spectacular results, and you'll be glad you did the > same- no > gratuities from them, but I am in the torx camp and intend to stay there... > > (Pheeew! Do I get worked up sometimes or WHAT?!) > > I mean it- > Mark Phillips - RV-6A N51PW, 300 hours and not a screw loose yet except maybe > in the right seat! 8-) http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/ > > p.s. - I'd happily build an RV for you and every one of them suckers would > have a nice sharp tap drilled mercilessly thru it! > > > What is freaking? my dictionary must be from last generation? Nut-plates, a necessity in our rv's// bert > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Tri gear VS tail dragger
Date: May 06, 2006
Ahhhh-my age really shows when there are people on here that don't know what a Chief is. Ollie 6A Central Fl. ----- Original Message ----- From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 5:26 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: Tri gear VS tail dragger > > First off, what's a chief??? :? If it's small like my kitfox than I > guess maybe you need a bigger aircraft, like lets say a maule. I've flown > a maule and it's much easier to handle and it's big inside over my kitfox. > I've pondered over tail wheel or tri, I have the solution for me. Keep > the fox and have an rv7a. When I want to get wild and crazy, I'll take up > the kitfox. If I want to get wild and crazy, I'll take up the rv7a. I > don't think it matters any. I'm sure each one will have its own tickle > spot. Of course what will probably happen is I'll put floats on the fox > and enjoy that world as well. I don't think any certain airplane much > matters as long as YOU are enjoying what you have. One thing for certain, > DON'T own an aircraft that somebody else wants, own what YOU want. [Wink] > > kitfoxmike > > -------- > kitfoxmike > kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster > http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33067#33067 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Tri gear VS tail dragger
Date: May 06, 2006
Don't worry about your age Ollie. Everyone (well, almost) knows that it's an Aeronca Chief, big brother to a Champ. Ken -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oliver Washburn Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 9:32 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Tri gear VS tail dragger Ahhhh-my age really shows when there are people on here that don't know what a Chief is. Ollie 6A Central Fl. ----- Original Message ----- From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 5:26 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: Tri gear VS tail dragger > > First off, what's a chief??? :? If it's small like my kitfox than I > guess maybe you need a bigger aircraft, like lets say a maule. I've flown > a maule and it's much easier to handle and it's big inside over my kitfox. > I've pondered over tail wheel or tri, I have the solution for me. Keep > the fox and have an rv7a. When I want to get wild and crazy, I'll take up > the kitfox. If I want to get wild and crazy, I'll take up the rv7a. I > don't think it matters any. I'm sure each one will have its own tickle > spot. Of course what will probably happen is I'll put floats on the fox > and enjoy that world as well. I don't think any certain airplane much > matters as long as YOU are enjoying what you have. One thing for certain, > DON'T own an aircraft that somebody else wants, own what YOU want. [Wink] > > kitfoxmike > > -------- > kitfoxmike > kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster > http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33067#33067 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2006
Subject: Want a head start on an RV7A
From: bryan hooks <bryanhooks(at)comcast.net>
Due to personal reasons, I must sell my pride and joy. I have 4 slow, careful years invested in this kit - it is much more complete than a quick-build kit. Its on the gear and ready for engine and avionics. Canopy is 95% complete (all plexi work is done) and aft-top fuselage skins are still clecoed in place for easy access. Wings are complete, but not attached. Included with this kit is $4000 worth of options and upgrades from the basic kit, to include the leather interior/side walls, AOA system, heated pitot, custom instrument panel, etc. If you know of someone considering a quick-build kit, please let them know to contact me off-list. Ill make someone a very good deal. RV7A tip up Electric aileron and elevator trim Dual brakes Dual steps Capacitive fuel sending units in both tanks Inverted fuel pickups in both tanks Airflow performance high pressure fuel pump Extended instrument panel to allow room for dual GRT EFIS Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attack system AOA Sport Graetz GA1000 Heated Pitot tube and chrome mounting bracket Leading Edge Landing Lights from Ductworks Fairings-ETC gear leg/wheel pant intersection fairings Engine mount, cowl, and spinner for 180hp IO360 Constant Speed from Superior Super Sound Proofing for cockpit floor, sides, firewall, and aft fuselage. Clasic Aero Deluxe Leather Seats, Stick Boots, and Side Panels (includes baggage area sides). This is the best looking interior Ive found anywhere! Thanks, Bryan Hooks RV7A slowbuild Knoxville, TN bryanhooks(at)comcast.net 865-806-4334 -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Testing 1 2 3
This is a test, please ignore.... Matt Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Testing a b c
This is a test, please ignore.... Matt Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: One More Test...
Sorry, debugging a new input filter... Matt Dralle Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2006
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: One More Test...
Works. --- Matt Dralle wrote: > > > > Sorry, debugging a new input filter... > > Matt Dralle > > > > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | > CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | > dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products > For Aircraft > > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > Admin. > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2006
Subject: Idle mixture screw on MA-4-5
From: Mark E Navratil <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Guys, I'm getting almost no RPM rise when I pull the mixture to idle cutoff at shutdown, and occasionally get some hesitation when I apply full throttle for a go-around. Which probably means my idle mixture setting is too lean. I don't have a manual for the MA-4-5 carb on my O-360 so I'm wondering if anybody remembers which way I turn the screw to make it richer? Thanks, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D flying 36.4 hours now, almost done with test phase! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net>
Subject: Aux RV-7/8 Fuel Tanks
Date: May 07, 2006
Listers, Anybody out there added more fuel capacity to an RV-7 or RV-8 leading edge? I'm picking up an RV-7 wing & Tail kit that already has the tanks completed, but want additional fuel in the leading edge. Has anybody done this? If so, I'd be interested in pictures of what you did.... Fred Stucklen RV-6A N926RV Third offender! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: Idle mixture screw on MA-4-5
Date: May 07, 2006
Turn the screw out (counter clockwise) to enrich. Randy Lervold > > Guys, I'm getting almost no RPM rise when I pull the mixture to idle > cutoff at shutdown, and occasionally get some hesitation when I apply > full throttle for a go-around. Which probably means my idle mixture > setting is too lean. I don't have a manual for the MA-4-5 carb on my > O-360 so I'm wondering if anybody remembers which way I turn the screw to > make it richer? > > Thanks, > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A N2D flying 36.4 hours now, almost done with test phase! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Idle mixture screw on MA-4-5
Date: May 07, 2006
counterclockwise ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark E Navratil<mailto:czechsix(at)juno.com> To: RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com ; rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2006 10:18 AM Subject: RV-List: Idle mixture screw on MA-4-5 > Guys, I'm getting almost no RPM rise when I pull the mixture to idle cutoff at shutdown, and occasionally get some hesitation when I apply full throttle for a go-around. Which probably means my idle mixture setting is too lean. I don't have a manual for the MA-4-5 carb on my O-360 so I'm wondering if anybody remembers which way I turn the screw to make it richer? Thanks, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D flying 36.4 hours now, almost done with test phase! http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ator?RV-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Aux RV-7/8 Fuel Tanks
Date: May 07, 2006
Fred, SafeAir1 has extended range tanks that fit inside the rib lightening holes..... Ralph ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net> Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2006 11:46 AM Subject: RV-List: Aux RV-7/8 Fuel Tanks > > Listers, > > Anybody out there added more fuel capacity to an RV-7 or RV-8 leading > edge? I'm picking up an RV-7 wing & Tail kit that already has the tanks > completed, but want additional fuel in the leading edge. Has anybody > done this? If so, I'd be interested in pictures of what you did.... > > Fred Stucklen > RV-6A N926RV > Third offender! > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rvbuilder1(at)aol.com
Date: May 07, 2006
Subject: Lyc 0290G
Anyone know about converting a Lyc 0290G for aircraft use ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "sheldon barrett" <sheldonb(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Lyc 0290G
Date: May 07, 2006
I have one for sale... needs the conversion to be completed and then overhauled and put together... Also have the complete story and conversion manual for this project... Sheldon Barrett RV6A ----- Original Message ----- From: <Rvbuilder1(at)aol.com> Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2006 1:46 PM Subject: RV-List: Lyc 0290G > > Anyone know about converting a Lyc 0290G for aircraft use > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net>
Cc: "'RV-List'"
Subject: Re: Aux RV-7/8 Fuel Tanks
Date: May 07, 2006
Ralf, I've seen their Web site. What I was looking for was a modification of the outboard leading edge skins to hold another 10-20 Gals per side.... Fred Stucklen replyto=000801c6720a$75777400$0a00a8c0@CAPENFAMILY.ORG
> > Fred, SafeAir1 has extended range tanks that fit inside the rib lightening holes..... Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2006
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Aux RV-7/8 Fuel Tanks
Fred Stucklen wrote: > >Ralf, > > I've seen their Web site. What I was looking for was a modification of >the outboard leading edge skins to hold another 10-20 Gals per side.... > >Fred Stucklen > I've done a leading edge tank mod to mine; haven't flown yet. I'll try to send pics if you want. You're welcome to call tomorrow if you want & I'll describe what I did. Charlie 601-879-9596 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Interpreting Aileron Position
Date: May 08, 2006
I'm getting nearer the solution to trimming up my RV8A's roll tendencies. After a long conversation with Rick McBride, who has an RV8 hangered near me, I now believe that changing pushrod lengths in the aileron control system will not affect roll tendency. It will just affect how closely to the neutral trail position the ailerons balance in-flight. This affects drag, but since the up (or down) force on both ailerons is the same, otherwise they wouldn't balance, there cannot be any contribution to roll. Somehow, in all the discussion of trailing edge squeezing, I forgot that you can just make a temporary trim tab and try it. I was delaying making any change because I thought of it as permanent. But, I went back to read Vans instruction book & now am trying various lengths of trim tab. One useful observation in the instructions was that unless the trim tab exceeds 6 inches in length, the rest of the airplane is not seriously out of trim. So I tried a wedge 3" wide, 1/4" high, and 1.5 inches long. Voila! trim was now within range of the manual trim system to correct. What a relief & how much more enjoyable to fly with fingertip control. The aileron position in flight still looks backward, as though it's trying to roll the airplane left when in fact a right roll correction is being input by the trim tab, but I'm much less worried about serious structural misalignment now so I've relegated explaning that to the far back burner. Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2006
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Interpreting Aileron Position
Dave, glad to hear you are getting the aileron trim sorted out. I am curious about something; during our flight back from Sun-N-Fun, I talked to a pilot flying near the Florida panhandle who had a new RV-8 "toy" and in the course of our chat we briefly discussed roll trim. Was that you? :-) If in our area, don't hesitate to jump to north Alabama sometime and share a fly-in breakfast with us. Best regards, Sam Buchanan Tennessee Valley RV Builders Group http://www.tvrvbg.org ==================== DAVID REEL wrote: > > I'm getting nearer the solution to trimming up my RV8A's roll tendencies. > After a long conversation with Rick McBride, who has an RV8 hangered near > me, I now believe that changing pushrod lengths in the aileron control > system will not affect roll tendency. It will just affect how closely to > the neutral trail position the ailerons balance in-flight. This affects > drag, but since the up (or down) force on both ailerons is the same, > otherwise they wouldn't balance, there cannot be any contribution to roll. > > Somehow, in all the discussion of trailing edge squeezing, I forgot that you > can just make a temporary trim tab and try it. I was delaying making any > change because I thought of it as permanent. But, I went back to read Vans > instruction book & now am trying various lengths of trim tab. One useful > observation in the instructions was that unless the trim tab exceeds 6 > inches in length, the rest of the airplane is not seriously out of trim. So > I tried a wedge 3" wide, 1/4" high, and 1.5 inches long. Voila! trim was > now within range of the manual trim system to correct. What a relief & how > much more enjoyable to fly with fingertip control. The aileron position in > flight still looks backward, as though it's trying to roll the airplane left > when in fact a right roll correction is being input by the trim tab, but I'm > much less worried about serious structural misalignment now so I've > relegated explaning that to the far back burner. > > Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: ground power jack
From: Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com
Date: May 08, 2006
Anybody gone to the trouble of installing a ground power jack on their RV? I have the materials to do this, as outlined at http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grndpwr.pdf but havent made up my mind. Not quite sure where to mount it / how to access it, and its kind of an ugly fixture to have showing on the outside. Has anyone done any spiffy access doors for one of these? Did you put it on the cowling or back on the aluminum skin? regards, Erich Weaver ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2006
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: ground power jack
Erich, I used Bob Nuckolls suggestions for jack modification, installation and circuitry per the article you cited. I sent a photo of the jack installation to Photo Share. The location of the jack is a my compromise to keep the heavy cable short. Others have placed the jack farther away from the front of the aircraft for safety reasons. To date, I have not used the connection for engine start. It is especially handy for running the electrical system on the ground to save the battery and for charging the battery. I have a battery charger that I use for the power source. I connect it to the mating plug when I want to charge the battery or run the electrical system. I don't have a close-up photo of the jack area after painting. I find it unobtrusive after painting. You can judge whether it is obtrusive before painting. Regards, Richard Dudley -6A flying Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com wrote: > >Anybody gone to the trouble of installing a ground power jack on their RV? >I have the materials to do this, as outlined at > >http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grndpwr.pdf > >but havent made up my mind. Not quite sure where to mount it / how to >access it, and its kind of an ugly fixture to have showing on the outside. >Has anyone done any spiffy access doors for one of these? Did you put it >on the cowling or back on the aluminum skin? > >regards, > >Erich Weaver > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Date: May 08, 2006
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant !
Where? Rollie & Rod 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant !
From: "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick(at)cox.net>
Date: May 08, 2006
Hi John, I have removed tanks from two rvs that were made in the 80s to comply with this SB and/or put new senders in. Both tanks initially seemed to be "welded on but I was able to get them out by using a wedge between the front fuselage attach bracket on the fuselage and the attach bracket on the tank. I had to pound the wedge in between the brackets but it popped all four tanks out from the spar without a problem. I wonder if something like this would work for you? On one of the tanks I pulled off the fuel pickup tube was about one inch from the bottom of the tank so I didnt have as much usable fuel in there as I thought. Regards, Tom Velvick RV-4 N53KT RV-4 N7053L Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33501#33501 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: throttle bracket for superior io 360
Date: May 08, 2006
I have a Superior XP+ io360 with a composite sump and forward facing Precision EX injection. The throttle bracket that comes with Vans firewall foreword kit. will not work. The Composite sump mounting points are spaced differently and are angled. Has anyone out there encountered this problem and what has been the solution thanks RV 7A N554DL dave ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2006
From: danbergeronham(at)aol.com
Subject: Ground Power Jack
Erich: I too am at the stage in fuselage construction where I've been thinking about placement of the ground power jack. I suppose, like so many other things w/ airplanes, it's a compromise, in this case among length of cable, size of cable, weight and safety. I have definitely decided not to place it anywhere forward of the wing leading edge for safety reasons. That leaves the side or bottom of the fuse further aft. Jacks are not terribly attractive and unless you're real clever w/ sheet aluminum (and I'm not) and can fabricate a neat looking, unobtrusive access panel for the side of the fuse, I guess I'd put it on the bottom somewhere near the trailing edge of the wing. I'm leaning in that direction. Of course that means a bit of voltage drop or a heavier cable (the compromise thing) and going down on your hands and knees every time you want to use it; but then how often is that going to happen? Probably only when the airplane is parked in the snow, wet grass or mud. Happy building, Dan Bergeron Chicopee, MA RV-7A (fuse completion targeted for Christmas 06) N-307TB (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Ground Power Jack
Date: May 08, 2006
Another alternative is to wire a Battery Tender type trickle charger to the battery and secure the plug near the oil door. It wouldn't provide a instant jump to a dead battery, but after 30 minutes you would have enough umph to crank (personal experience). It also provides juice when working on avionics for extended periods. No other special connectors needed, just an extension cord. I keep the tender plug in my travel tool kit. - Larry Bowen, RV-8 180 Hrs. Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: danbergeronham(at)aol.com [mailto:danbergeronham(at)aol.com] > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 7:39 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Ground Power Jack > > > Erich: > > I too am at the stage in fuselage construction where I've > been thinking about placement of the ground power jack. I > suppose, like so many other things w/ airplanes, it's a > compromise, in this case among length of cable, size of > cable, weight and safety. I have definitely decided not to > place it anywhere forward of the wing leading edge for safety > reasons. That leaves the side or bottom of the fuse further > aft. Jacks are not terribly attractive and unless you're > real clever w/ sheet aluminum (and I'm not) and can fabricate > a neat looking, unobtrusive access panel for the side of the > fuse, I guess I'd put it on the bottom somewhere near the > trailing edge of the wing. I'm leaning in that direction. > Of course that means a bit of voltage drop or a heavier cable > (the compromise thing) and going down on your hands and knees > every time you want to use it; but then how often is that > going to happen? Probably only when the airplane is parked > in the snow, wet grass or mud. > > Happy building, > > Dan Bergeron > Chicopee, MA > RV-7A (fuse completion targeted for Christmas 06) N-307TB (Reserved) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Subject: Ground Power Jack
Date: May 09, 2006
I did a hybrid. I bought the piper ground power jacks and in the end decided not to put then in as they were just massive, heavy. But I have my battery in the back (RV8) and my battery tender maintenance connector was not going to work out like it would have if the battery was on the firewall and one could get access through the oil service door. So I bought a heavy duty 12 volt all weather, spring loaded door cigarette style power plug and mounted it on the bottom of the fuse in the bay just behind the battery. I modified the battery tender output chords to use a cigarrete ligher style plug and now I plug my battery tender in all the time at the hangar and can still close and lock the canopy. Odyssey battery stays in top form this way. -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> > > Another alternative is to wire a Battery Tender type trickle charger to the > battery and secure the plug near the oil door. It wouldn't provide a > instant jump to a dead battery, but after 30 minutes you would have enough > umph to crank (personal experience). It also provides juice when working on > avionics for extended periods. No other special connectors needed, just an > extension cord. I keep the tender plug in my travel tool kit. > > - > Larry Bowen, RV-8 180 Hrs. > Larry(at)BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: danbergeronham(at)aol.com [mailto:danbergeronham(at)aol.com] > > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 7:39 PM > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV-List: Ground Power Jack > > > > > > Erich: > > > > I too am at the stage in fuselage construction where I've > > been thinking about placement of the ground power jack. I > > suppose, like so many other things w/ airplanes, it's a > > compromise, in this case among length of cable, size of > > cable, weight and safety. I have definitely decided not to > > place it anywhere forward of the wing leading edge for safety > > reasons. That leaves the side or bottom of the fuse further > > aft. Jacks are not terribly attractive and unless you're > > real clever w/ sheet aluminum (and I'm not) and can fabricate > > a neat looking, unobtrusive access panel for the side of the > > fuse, I guess I'd put it on the bottom somewhere near the > > trailing edge of the wing. I'm leaning in that direction. > > Of course that means a bit of voltage drop or a heavier cable > > (the compromise thing) and going down on your hands and knees > > every time you want to use it; but then how often is that > > going to happen? Probably only when the airplane is parked > > in the snow, wet grass or mud. > > > > Happy building, > > > > Dan Bergeron > > Chicopee, MA > > RV-7A (fuse completion targeted for Christmas 06) N-307TB (Reserved) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
I did a hybrid.  I bought the piper ground power jacks and in the end decided not to put then in as they were just massive, heavy.  But I have my battery in the back (RV8) and my battery tender maintenance connector was not going to work out like it would have if the battery was on the firewall and one could get access through the oil service door.
 
So I bought a heavy duty 12 volt all weather, spring loaded door cigarette style power plug and mounted it on the bottom of the fuse in the bay just behind the battery.  I modified the battery tender output chords to use a cigarrete ligher style plug and now I plug my battery tender in all the time at the hangar and can still close and lock the canopy.
 
Odyssey battery stays in top form this way.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com> <BR><BR>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <LARRY@BOWENAERO.COM><BR>> <BR>> Another alternative is to wire a Battery Tender type trickle charger to the <BR>> battery and secure the plug near the oil door. It wouldn't provide a <BR>> instant jump to a dead battery, but after 30 minutes you would have enough <BR>> umph to crank (personal experience). It also provides juice when working on <BR>> avionics for extended periods. No other special connectors needed, just an <BR>> extension cord. I keep the tender plug in my travel tool kit. <BR>> <BR>> - <BR>> Larry Bowen, RV-8 180 Hrs. <BR>> Larry@BowenAero.com <BR>> http://BowenAero.com <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> > -----Original Message----- <BR>> > From: danbergeronham@aol.com [mailto: danber geronham(at)aol.com]
> > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 7:39 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Ground Power Jack
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: danbergeronham(at)aol.com
> >
> > Erich:
> >
> > I too am at the stage in fuselage construction where I've
> > been thinking about placement of the ground power jack. I
> > suppose, like so many other things w/ airplanes, it's a
> > compromise, in this case among length of cable, size of
> > cable, weight and safety. I have definitely decided not to
> > place it anywhere forward of the wing leading edge for safety
> > reasons. That leaves the side or bottom of the fuse further
> > aft. Jacks are not terribly attractive and unless you're
> > real clever w/ sheet aluminum (and I'm not) and can fabricate
> > a neat looking, unobtrusive acc ess pa ===== ;
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tailgummer(at)aol.com
Date: May 08, 2006
Subject: Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360
Dave, you may wish to visit the precision website (precisionairmotive dot com) and see some installation photos, or call Paul Kalgren there. Paul is a wealth of information. Have you also discussed this with Superior? I'm sure they'd help as well. John D'Onofrio RV8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mts.net>
Subject: Re: ground power jack
Date: May 08, 2006
I agonized over this, as with so many other building decisions, and decided it wasn't worth it to install a ground power jack. If you install one you have buy it, do the extra work, and then carry around a pound or so of useless weight for the life of the plane. I've flown my plane through three Canadian winters without a starting problem. That's in an unheated hangar at -30F with preheat prior to starting and a number of sub-freezing parking ramps at distant airports with NO preheat. It helps to have a good quality battery, and to change it often. I hope my new PC680 does as well as my old Concorde 25RG-XC that I just retired. One trick to avoid the dreaded left-the-master-on is to always leave your strobe switch in the on position as a "master power warning". Never left my master on once since I started doing that (thanks Doug Rozendahl). Also gets people's attention at start up. But okay, what if? If the time ever comes that I have a dead battery, and I'm sure it will, I can bear pulling off the battery cover to gain access. Or I can slow charge the battery through my accessory jack. In my tool bag I carry a 12V cigar lighter plug with short wires attached so that I can hook up a battery charger. The plug weighs maybe an ounce. The battery charger I'll borrow or buy, or even hook up jumper cables to a car and slow charge it off the car battery. There are multiple ways to revive your plane in a pinch. To paraphrase Henry Ford, parts left off the airplane cost nothing, weigh nothing and don't cause future service problems. If you are going to invest time and aircraft weight to cover for some rare contingency, at least make it an airborne contingency. Curt RV-6 C-GACR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
Subject: idle air fuel
Date: May 08, 2006
<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>> M, The plate the screw is in often has cool little indicator arrows.... hesitation is more likely the accelerator pump or mild MAP leak or dirty plug, the idle circuit is off during anything above 1/8 throttle. W ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: ground power jack
My plane just has a HOT lead to the battery positive (ground is the frame). Just hook up to the wire that hangs down at the lower cowl opening and the frame. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2006
Subject: [ Richard Dudley ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Richard Dudley Lists: AeroElectric-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List,RV-List Subject: Groundpower jack http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rhdudley1@bellsouth.net.05.08.2006/index.html ---------------------------------------------------------- o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: ground power jack
Date: May 09, 2006
Hi Erich- Re: Anybody gone to the trouble of installing a ground power jack on their RV? I assume from your note that you have a fwd bat installation. Mine are aft on my -8 so this may well not help you, but I put a ground power receptacle on the belly just aft of the bulkhead aft of the rear bat installation. The mounting bracket I made is attached to the skin as well as the bulkhead. When it will be used I will need to get on my knees to plug it in, but I won't have any college kid ramper in close prox to the prop to pull it out. With the available space between the wing and the prop, and the presence of the main gear (TD), I couldn't conscience putting the receptacle fwd. FWIW- Glen Matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Electroair failure record?
Date: May 09, 2006
Good morning, I installed the Electoair system recently and it has run smoothly, 12 hours to date. Was just told by an A&P that it has the potential to misfire at cruise speed and destroy the engine. Has anyone heard of this happening, or of a weakness in the design that might cause such an event? I have heard of misfire problems during startup due to voltage dropping below 8 volts at the controller, but I don't have that problem. I searched the list archives and Google and found no mention of cruise speed failure or potential failure. Thanks and have a great week, Dale RV6A 605 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Firewall Oil cooler location
Fellow builders, I would like to use Vans stock location for my firewall mounted oil cooler - in order that I can use their prefabbed lines. I'm gonna need to build a couple regardless but they will be -6 instead of the oil cooler -8 lines. I have Vans firewall foreward documentation but don't recall seeing a location called out. I'm using an Aerosport built O360 so the stock engine locations are available. Anyone out there used Vans oil cooler hoses with their called out location? Please give me a leader on their documentation. Thanks, Ralph Capen RV6A QB N822AR @ N06 working on firewall foreward ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Crankcase breather vent fitting
Fellow builders, I bought the FF705 and CV9816 breather parts from Vans for venting my Aerosport built O360. Come to find out that the vent fitting on my engine is 5/8" instead of the 3/4" one that the CV9816 is called for. The good news is that the vent fitting on my engine is a 45 degree fitting already pointed aft - so I don't want to change it out. Anyone out there using the 45 degree 5/8" fitting? How did you build up the hoses? Does it work OK? Thanks, Ralph RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 - working on firewall foreward ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Electroair failure record?
Date: May 09, 2006
I've got 375 hours on my Electroair/0-320 with none of what your A& P suggests. In 10 years of following this list and other similar forums, I don't remember a single reported instance of a cruise misfire causing engine problems. I would ask him about the basis for his comments. Unless he does a lot of work on Experimentals, his experience with the Electroair ignition system is probably very limited. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 7:37 AM Subject: RV-List: Electroair failure record? > > Good morning, > I installed the Electoair system recently and it has run smoothly, 12 > hours to date. Was just told by an A&P that it has the potential to > misfire at cruise speed and destroy the engine. Has anyone heard of this > happening, or of a weakness in the design that might cause such an > event? I have heard of misfire problems during startup due to voltage > dropping below 8 volts at the controller, but I don't have that problem. > I searched the list archives and Google and found no mention of cruise > speed failure or potential failure. > > Thanks and have a great week, > Dale > RV6A 605 hours > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2006
From: "James Clark" <jclarkmail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Electroair failure record?
After 689.9 hours with one on an O-320 I have not had this occur nor have I heard of it. You can get backfire during cranking (as I have and you have) if the batter y voltage goes down below 8 volts or so as you say. James On 5/9/06, Dale Walter wrote: > > > Good morning, > I installed the Electoair system recently and it has run smoothly, 12 > hours to date. Was just told by an A&P that it has the potential to > misfire at cruise speed and destroy the engine. Has anyone heard of this > happening, or of a weakness in the design that might cause such an > event? I have heard of misfire problems during startup due to voltage > dropping below 8 volts at the controller, but I don't have that problem. > I searched the list archives and Google and found no mention of cruise > speed failure or potential failure. > > Thanks and have a great week, > Dale > RV6A 605 hours > > > > -- This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at james(at)nextupventures.com . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2006
Subject: Re: Electroair failure record?
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Mine stumbled in flight on two occasions due to intermittent wiring failure. Search my website for "ignition" for more details. -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 7:37 AM > Subject: RV-List: Electroair failure record? > > >> >> Good morning, >> I installed the Electoair system recently and it has run smoothly, 12 >> hours to date. Was just told by an A&P that it has the potential to >> misfire at cruise speed and destroy the engine. Has anyone heard of this >> >> happening, or of a weakness in the design that might cause such an >> event? I have heard of misfire problems during startup due to voltage >> dropping below 8 volts at the controller, but I don't have that problem. >> I searched the list archives and Google and found no mention of cruise >> speed failure or potential failure. >> >> Thanks and have a great week, >> Dale >> RV6A 605 hours >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360
Date: May 09, 2006
I'll give them a call this morning. thanks dave On May 8, 2006, at 5:55 PM, Tailgummer(at)aol.com wrote: > > Dave, > you may wish to visit the precision website (precisionairmotive > dot com) > and see some installation photos, or call Paul Kalgren there. Paul > is a > wealth of information. Have you also discussed this with > Superior? I'm sure > they'd help as well. > > John D'Onofrio RV8 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: NWFC 2006
Date: May 09, 2006
RVers, Just a reminder that the date for the 1st Annual Northwest Formation Clinic is approaching... June 30th - July 2nd. Full details on our web site... http://www.romeolima.com/FormationClinic/ A few notes: -We have a block of rooms reserved at the hotel where we'll hold ground school, but the block expires June 1st. The hotel is FULL otherwise so lodging could be an issue if rooms are not reserved by that date. -We need Instructor Pilots (IPs), anyone holding an FFI card or IP qualified -- we need you! -Based on the number of IPs we may have to limit the roster so sign up now if you're interested. Again, full info is on our web site, but if there are any other specific questions just let us know, contact info is on the site. Hope to see you there! Randy Lervold & Mike Wilson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: SS prop governor line
Anyone out there have photos of a stainless steel prop governor line installed on their O360? Getting ready to do the same thing and wanna see how it should look when I'm done. Thanks, Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Proseal for Sale
Date: May 09, 2006
If you want to do the fuel tank pickup tube coupling nut safety wiring modification, I have a quart of proseal from Van's just received Saturday and unopened. I will not be doing the change because of peculiar circumstances, so the $39.35 Van's price is yours for 50% plus shipping ($18.15 plus either UPS or mail - your choice.) John at Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Stuck screws
Date: May 09, 2006
Attn: Ron and William: Your suggestions on removing screw bodies that had their heads already drilled out because they were "frozen" worked just fine. I started with a #51 bit and went up three or four sizes till I got up to 3/32nds and then a Craftsman "easy out" - a sort-of reverse cutting bit - easily rotated the stubs out with no damage to the nut plates behind them, thanks fellowsl John at Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Proseal for Sale
I'll take it..... -----Original Message----- >From: John Fasching <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> >Sent: May 9, 2006 2:07 PM >To: RV List >Subject: RV-List: Proseal for Sale > > >If you want to do the fuel tank pickup tube coupling nut safety wiring >modification, I have a quart of proseal from Van's just received >Saturday and unopened. I will not be doing the change because of >peculiar circumstances, so the $39.35 Van's price is yours for 50% plus >shipping ($18.15 plus either UPS or mail - your choice.) > >John at Salida, CO > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2006
Subject: Re: Proseal for Sale
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
John, I'll take the pro seal. How do you want the payment?. You can use my UPS number if possible or ship regular UPS.. Jim Nelson RV9Jim(at)Juno.co, ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2006
Subject: Re: Proseal for Sale
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
John, Who was first??? Jim Nelson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Proseal for Sale
Date: May 09, 2006
I replied off-line and guess I beat you guys by a couple minutes. John Jessen RV-10 40328 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James H Nelson Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 4:29 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Proseal for Sale John, Who was first??? Jim Nelson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date: May 09, 2006
Subject: Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360
Hi Dave, If you go here: _http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/_ (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/) , and on the left side under Photos, you will find a "Misc." file. Inside it are a bunch of pix of a throttle bracket I made of steel. It is some 4130 I got from the scrap heap at Van's, measures .055 thick. Any sheet metal shop might have it, or if not, I'd be happy to mail you a piece. HTH Jerry Cochran Wilsonville, OR From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> Subject: RV-List: throttle bracket for superior io 360 I have a Superior XP+ io360 with a composite sump and forward facing Precision EX injection. The throttle bracket that comes with Vans firewall foreword kit. will not work. The Composite sump mounting points are spaced differently and are angled. Has anyone out there encountered this problem and what has been the solution thanks RV 7A N554DL dave ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mkejrj(at)comcast.net
Cc: Dave Cudney
Subject: Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360
Date: May 09, 2006
Dave, I had the same problem installing Superior's engine in my RV8. I fabricated an aluminum bracket which I bolted onto the composite sump and used it as the termination point for the throttle cable. If desired I will mail you my shop drawing of my bracket...Let me know your "snail mail" address if interested.The drawing is the end result of several days of cut and fit and may save you some time. Dick Jordan RV8A ,N888BZ -------------- Original message -------------- From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> > > I have a Superior XP+ io360 with a composite sump and forward facing > Precision EX injection. > The throttle bracket that comes with Vans firewall foreword kit. will > not work. > The Composite sump mounting points are spaced differently and are > angled. > Has anyone out there encountered this problem and what has been the > solution > > thanks > RV 7A N554DL > dave > > > > > > > > > > > >
Dave,
  I had the same problem installing Superior's engine in my RV8. I fabricated an aluminum bracket which I bolted onto the composite sump and used it as the termination point for the throttle cable.
 
  If desired I will mail you my shop drawing of my bracket...Let me know your "snail mail" address if interested.The drawing is the end result of several days of cut and fit and may save you some time.
 
  Dick Jordan
  RV8A ,N888BZ
 
script ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360
Date: May 09, 2006
Jerry: I went by Aircraft Spruce and Harbor Freight today. I got some 4130 (.063) and a 4 inch vice break. I've never tried this before -- should be interesting. Hope to come up with something that looks sorta like your pictures. Thanks dave On May 9, 2006, at 2:42 PM, Jerry2DT(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Hi Dave, > > If you go here: _http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/_ > (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/) , and on the left > side under Photos, you will > find a "Misc." file. Inside it are a bunch of pix of a throttle > bracket I made > of steel. It is some 4130 I got from the scrap heap at Van's, > measures .055 > thick. Any sheet metal shop might have it, or if not, I'd be happy > to mail > you a piece. HTH > > Jerry Cochran > Wilsonville, OR > > From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> > Subject: RV-List: throttle bracket for superior io 360 > > > I have a Superior XP+ io360 with a composite sump and forward facing > Precision EX injection. > The throttle bracket that comes with Vans firewall foreword kit. will > not work. > The Composite sump mounting points are spaced differently and are > angled. > Has anyone out there encountered this problem and what has been the > solution > > thanks > RV 7A N554DL > dave > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2006
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Return Tee
I'm plumbing in a new fuel selector, and instead of having my fuel return (older simmons injection that has a fuel return) return to the tank, was thinking of plumbing in a tee in the line just before the fuel pump. This is because the fuel return is currently going to one tank, and makes fuel management a chore. Any reason why I shouldn't do this? Cavatation, etc? Paul Besing __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360
Date: May 09, 2006
Dick: I bought some 0.063" 4130 sheet steel and a vice break to bend it today. I thought I would give fabrication a try. But I would be very interested in your drawings. I called Superior today and talked to Fred in their tech support. He sent me some pictures that are the same as those listed on the XP-360 Forum. There were also some pictures of a Vans throttle bracket where they gave the stock bracket an extra bend. My snail mail address is: Dave Cudney 4996 Cherryhill drive Riverside, CA 92507 Thanks dave On May 9, 2006, at 4:48 PM, mkejrj(at)comcast.net wrote: > > Dave, > I had the same problem installing Superior's engine in my RV8. I > fabricated an aluminum bracket which I bolted onto the composite > sump and used it as the termination point for the throttle cable. > > If desired I will mail you my shop drawing of my bracket...Let me > know your "snail mail" address if interested.The drawing is the end > result of several days of cut and fit and may save you some time. > > Dick Jordan > RV8A ,N888BZ > > -------------- Original message -------------- > From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> > > >> >> I have a Superior XP+ io360 with a composite sump and forward facing >> Precision EX injection. >> The throttle bracket that comes with Vans firewall foreword kit. will >> not work. >> The Composite sump mounting points are spaced differently and are >> angled. >> Has anyone out there encountered this problem and what has been the >> solution >> >> thanks >> RV 7A N554DL >> dave >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >
Dave,
>
  I had the same problem installing Superior's engine in > my RV8. I fabricated an aluminum bracket which I bolted onto > the composite sump and used it as the termination point for the > throttle cable.
>
 
>
  If desired I will mail you my shop drawing of my > bracket...Let me know your "snail mail" address if interested.The > drawing is the end result of several days of cut and fit and may > save you some time.
>
 
>
  Dick Jordan
>
  RV8A ,N888BZ
>
 
> script > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2006
From: William Scaringe <bscaringe(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: For Sale: Rivet Sets & Supplies, Countersink Cutters, On Top
IFR Sim Software Please see the following items that I posted on Ebay: Rivet Sets, Flat Mushroom, AND 8" Rivet Set Extension http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7618555210 Countersink Cutter Set, 100 degree, 21 pcs http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7618545474 Deburring Bits, Debur Tools, Weldon and Two Sided http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7618564676 2 rolls Rivet Tape, Riveting Gages, Cleco Pliers http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7618538146 On Top IFR Simulator and Instrument Rating Training Course http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4639363699 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Subject: Fuel Return Tee
Date: May 10, 2006
Andair has a more elegant solution, a double valve fuel selector. It switches the return line to the tank from which you are drawing. Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Besing Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 11:32 PM Subject: RV-List: Fuel Return Tee I'm plumbing in a new fuel selector, and instead of having my fuel return (older simmons injection that has a fuel return) return to the tank, was thinking of plumbing in a tee in the line just before the fuel pump. This is because the fuel return is currently going to one tank, and makes fuel management a chore. Any reason why I shouldn't do this? Cavatation, etc? Paul Besing __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Fuel Return Tee
Date: May 09, 2006
This is the method that's being used in the RV-10. The fuel is returned to a T installed in the line between the fuel selector valve and the fuel filter. Albert Gardner RV-10 #422 -----Original Message----- Subject: RV-List: Fuel Return Tee I'm plumbing in a new fuel selector, and instead of having my fuel return (older simmons injection that has a fuel return) return to the tank, was thinking of plumbing in a tee in the line just before the fuel pump. This is because the fuel return is currently going to one tank, and makes fuel management a chore. Any reason why I shouldn't do this? Cavatation, etc? Paul Besing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2006
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Return Tee
Vapor Lock Assuming this is a continuous full time re-circulation. Fuel gets heated as it circulates through the fuel injection components up front. It needs to go to the tank to cool. It can get hot enough that the boost pump doesn't create enough pressure to overcome the vaporization. I'm not familiar with the Simmons injection you mentioned. This is a typical question/problem for alternate engine installations. These typically have a constant volume or high pressure pump that has a high recirc volume through the pressure regulator. In this case we have to use something like the Andair Duplex (six port) fuel valve so the recirc goes to the tank it came out of. This valve eliminates the fuel management issue you talked about. The valve is unfortunately very expensive at over $300. http://www.andair.co.uk/system/index.html Mike Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR 13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2 At 20:31 2006-05-09, you wrote: > >I'm plumbing in a new fuel selector, and instead of >having my fuel return (older simmons injection that >has a fuel return) return to the tank, was thinking of >plumbing in a tee in the line just before the fuel >pump. This is because the fuel return is currently >going to one tank, and makes fuel management a chore. > >Any reason why I shouldn't do this? Cavatation, etc? > >Paul Besing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2006
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Return Tee
Yeah, I saw that, very pricey, and I only have one line plumbed to one tank. I'd have to spend the $400 on the selector, remove the right tank, take the sender bracket off, plumb a return line to the tank, etc, etc. I thought it was much easier just to plumb the return back into the system, instead of the tank it comes from. Paul Besing --- Bruce Gray wrote: > > > Andair has a more elegant solution, a double valve > fuel selector. It > switches the return line to the tank from which you > are drawing. > > Bruce > www.glasair.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On > Behalf Of Paul Besing > Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 11:32 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Return Tee > > > > > I'm plumbing in a new fuel selector, and instead of > having my fuel return (older simmons injection that > has a fuel return) return to the tank, was thinking > of > plumbing in a tee in the line just before the fuel > pump. This is because the fuel return is currently > going to one tank, and makes fuel management a > chore. > > Any reason why I shouldn't do this? Cavatation, etc? > > Paul Besing > > > __________________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > Admin. > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Fuel Return Tee
Date: May 09, 2006
I think this will link to a picture of the assembly out of the plane. Builder is Larry Rosen. http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/Fuel_lines/slides/2006-02-27 -fuel-27.html Albert Gardner RV-10 #422 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2006
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Return Tee
It's only about 1 GPH that returns..wouldn't 1 GPH mixing with 9 GPH cool enough? --- Michael McGee wrote: > > > Vapor Lock > Assuming this is a continuous full time > re-circulation. Fuel gets > heated as it circulates through the fuel injection > components up > front. It needs to go to the tank to cool. It can > get hot enough > that the boost pump doesn't create enough pressure > to overcome the > vaporization. > > I'm not familiar with the Simmons injection you > mentioned. This is a > typical question/problem for alternate engine > installations. These > typically have a constant volume or high pressure > pump that has a > high recirc volume through the pressure regulator. > In this case we > have to use something like the Andair Duplex (six > port) fuel valve so > the recirc goes to the tank it came out of. This > valve eliminates > the fuel management issue you talked about. The > valve is > unfortunately very expensive at over > $300. http://www.andair.co.uk/system/index.html > > Mike > Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR > 13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2 > > > At 20:31 2006-05-09, you wrote: > > > > >I'm plumbing in a new fuel selector, and instead of > >having my fuel return (older simmons injection that > >has a fuel return) return to the tank, was thinking > of > >plumbing in a tee in the line just before the fuel > >pump. This is because the fuel return is currently > >going to one tank, and makes fuel management a > chore. > > > >Any reason why I shouldn't do this? Cavatation, > etc? > > > >Paul Besing > > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > Admin. > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2006
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Return Tee
Yes, but depending on how much fuel is consumed on each trip around the circuit the fuel may get very hot and then you have the makings of a vapor lock problem. If you don't want to replumb it to return fuel back to the source tank, any chance you can add a small header tank? That would allow more volume of fuel to dissipate any heat from the pass through the fuel circuit. On the other hand, if a significant portion of the pumped fuel is consumed each time around the circuit, it may be no problem at all. My $0.02. I have one of the $300 Andair fuel valves ;-) . Dick Tasker Paul Besing wrote: > >Yeah, I saw that, very pricey, and I only have one >line plumbed to one tank. I'd have to spend the $400 >on the selector, remove the right tank, take the >sender bracket off, plumb a return line to the tank, >etc, etc. I thought it was much easier just to plumb >the return back into the system, instead of the tank >it comes from. > >Paul Besing > >--- Bruce Gray wrote: > > > >> >> >>Andair has a more elegant solution, a double valve >>fuel selector. It >>switches the return line to the tank from which you >>are drawing. >> >>Bruce >>www.glasair.org >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On >>Behalf Of Paul Besing >>Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 11:32 PM >>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: RV-List: Fuel Return Tee >> >> >> >> >>I'm plumbing in a new fuel selector, and instead of >>having my fuel return (older simmons injection that >>has a fuel return) return to the tank, was thinking >>of >>plumbing in a tee in the line just before the fuel >>pump. This is because the fuel return is currently >>going to one tank, and makes fuel management a >>chore. >> >>Any reason why I shouldn't do this? Cavatation, etc? >> >>Paul Besing >> >> >>__________________________________________________ >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>browse >>Subscriptions page, >>FAQ, >> >> >>Admin. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >__________________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > -- Please Note: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced. -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Subject: Fuel Return Tee
Date: May 10, 2006
The most critical time for vapor lock is after you rotate on takeoff after a long time at idle power. There's only 2 ways to reduce the possibility of vapor lock, decrease the temperature of the fuel or raise the pressure in the fuel line. We also have to consider the different locations where vapor lock can occur. The most common is the low/suction side of the engine driven fuel pump. If the fuel or pump temperature is at it's vapor point, the pressure drop at the fuel pump will vaporize it and no more pumping. That's the condition the electric fuel pump is likely to correct. The next most likely is the fuel servo, this is already seeing the high pressure of the engine pump, so turning on the electric pump is not likely to have much beneficial effect. Your best choice here is, a thermal brake between your servo and the engine induction housing (fiberglass/wood gasket/spacer) or cooling the servo case with fuel flow. This condition is what the fuel return line is designed to cure. If the engine is already at full power the extra 1 gph of a return line will have little effect. So the return line can only be beneficial from a preventative standpoint. It's designed to cool the servo during long taxi periods at idle power. There might be some benefit to running the engine at mid power levels after a long taxi before takeoff on hot days for 3-5 minutes to cool the servo with fuel if you don't have a return line. Vapor lock in the feed line from the servo to the spider is only an issue for hot starts. Some FI systems have a purge line on the distribution spider to solve this issue. One other area of concern is that our diaphragm type of engine fuel pumps have a failure mode that will block the fuel line and not allow fuel to reach the servo even with the electric pump operational. Some builders have installed a second faucet type pump with check valve and plumbed to a T right at the main inlet of the fuel servo. This pump is always left on. Gear driven fuel pumps (Lear-Romec) don't have this failure mode Bruce www.glasair.org ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2006
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Fuel Return Tee
> I'm plumbing in a new fuel selector, and instead of > having my fuel return (older simmons injection that > has a fuel return) return to the tank, was thinking of > plumbing in a tee in the line just before the fuel > pump. This is because the fuel return is currently > going to one tank, and makes fuel management a chore. > > Any reason why I shouldn't do this? Cavatation, etc? Paul, Clearly the best way is the Andair valve that directs the return to the same tank as the source. If that's off the table, I would just make sure that after you fill up, you select the tank that has the return line. After burning a few gallons, then you should be ok to switch tanks, keeping in mind the tank without the return will empty a bit more quickly. I would not return the hot, possibly vapor laden fuel to the intake of the fuel pump, since as you suggested, cavitation and then vapor lock can happen. I've read somewhere that fuel issues are one of the leading cause of accidents in the first 10 hours of flight in experimental aircraft, so this is an area where I feel it is worth a lot of extra effort to make it bulletproof. I know that fuel delivery on my Subaru powered RV8 has been the single largest time sink for me. -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mkejrj(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360
Date: May 10, 2006
Dave, The drawings are on their way. Best wishes, Dick Jordan -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> > > Dick: > > I bought some 0.063" 4130 sheet steel and a vice break to bend it today. > I thought I would give fabrication a try. But I would be very > interested in your > drawings. I called Superior today and talked to Fred in their tech > support. > He sent me some pictures that are the same as those listed on the > XP-360 Forum. > There were also some pictures of a Vans throttle bracket where they > gave the > stock bracket an extra bend. > My snail mail address is: > > Dave Cudney > 4996 Cherryhill drive > Riverside, CA 92507 > > Thanks > dave > > On May 9, 2006, at 4:48 PM, mkejrj(at)comcast.net wrote: > > > > > Dave, > > I had the same problem installing Superior's engine in my RV8. I > > fabricated an aluminum bracket which I bolted onto the composite > > sump and used it as the termination point for the throttle cable. > > > > If desired I will mail you my shop drawing of my bracket...Let me > > know your "snail mail" address if interested.The drawing is the end > > result of several days of cut and fit and may save you some time. > > > > Dick Jordan > > RV8A ,N888BZ > > > > -------------- Original message -------------- > > From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> > > > > > >> > >> I have a Superior XP+ io360 with a composite sump and forward facing > >> Precision EX injection. > >> The throttle bracket that comes with Vans firewall foreword kit. will > >> not work. > >> The Composite sump mounting points are spaced differently and are > >> angled. > >> Has anyone out there encountered this problem and what has been the > >> solution > >> > >> thanks > >> RV 7A N554DL > >> dave > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > >
Dave,
> >
  I had the same problem installing Superior's engine in > > my RV8. I fabricated an aluminum bracket which I bolted onto > > the composite sump and used it as the termination point for the > > throttle cable.
> >
 
> >
  If desired I will mail you my shop drawing of my > > bracket...Let me know your "snail mail" address if interested.The > > drawing is the end result of several days of cut and fit and may > > save you some time.
> >
 
> >
  Dick Jordan
> >
  RV8A ,N888BZ
> >
 
> > script > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCPower.com>
Subject: Re: ElectroAir failure record?
Date: May 10, 2006
I've put 208 hrs on the ElectroAir unit in my first RV-6A, and 480 Hrs on a dual ElectroAir setup on my second RV. Except for a rash of pickup/sensor problems, both installation never missed a beat... Jeff Rose found that the 1/4" sensor unit in the original units were having manufacturing QC issues. He's since changed those parts to a 1/2" sealed unit. this is the type that I now have in the dual ElectroAir install ion on my second RV-6A. they have worked flawlessly. I have found that when a sensor fails, the engine will miss, but it is because the ignition system went off-line, not because it fired the plugs at the wrong time. (Same type of failure you would get when a Mag fails...) As others have stated, I would press your A/P for more basis as to why he thinks there is a problem... One of the better aspects of the ElectroAir system is the higher voltage output. This is primarily due to the size of the coils. Compare these to those found in the E/P Mags.... Could this be one of the reasons why the E/P Mags installations are running Hot? Fred Stucklen RV-6A N926RV 480 Hrs Multiple Offender! Mine stumbled in flight on two occasions due to intermittent wiring failure. Search my website for "ignition" for more details. -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com <http://bowenaero.com/> http://BowenAero.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dale Walter" < <mailto:dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> > To: < rv-list(at)matronics.com> > Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 7:37 AM > Subject: RV-List: Electroair failure record? > > dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> >> >> Good morning, >> I installed the Electoair system recently and it has run smoothly, 12 >> hours to date. Was just told by an A&P that it has the potential to >> misfire at cruise speed and destroy the engine. Has anyone heard of this >> >> happening, or of a weakness in the design that might cause such an >> event? I have heard of misfire problems during startup due to voltage >> dropping below 8 volts at the controller, but I don't have that problem. >> I searched the list archives and Google and found no mention of cruise >> speed failure or potential failure. >> >> Thanks and have a great week, >> Dale >> RV6A 605 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_Delsol?= <michele.delsol(at)microsigma.fr>
Subject: Interpreting Aileron Position
Date: May 10, 2006
A little late as I am catching up on my mail but have you checked your wings for twist? If they are twisted ever so slightly in opposite directions, one wing's twist will accentuate the other wing's twist then that may be the problem. Michele RV8 - Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach Sent: mardi 25 avril 2006 19:46 Subject: Re: RV-List: Interpreting Aileron Position My heavy left wing seems to be caused by a little twist in the flap, so you might want to check that I also don't have much faith in either digital levels or the wing template. Make sure the tooling holes in the wing ribs and aileron ribs are lined up. That's the way we do it on the -7's and since the wing is the same it should work on your -8 too. And just in case nobody mentioned this... try it without the trim hooked up. :-) If I had to guess I think the aileron is trying to tell you that your airplane is straight and the aileron trim is off. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB http://www.myrv7.com DAVID REEL wrote: > >I have a feeling my ailerons are trying to tell me something significant about my heavy left wing condition but I'm having trouble getting it. So, here goes. In level flight, I'm applying full right manual aileron trim to stay level with the left tank empty. On the ground, I've established a visual picture of the neutral trail position of the ailerons relative to the wingtips by measurement with a digital level. So, when I look in the air, I expect to see the left aileron displaced down from neutral and the right aileron displaced up. What I actually see is the reverse situation. The left aileron is displaced up and the right down. What does this mean? > >I've checked wing incidence, trimmed up the yaw, set the flaps to neutral trail, and found no vertical displacement errors in the ailerons themselves where they attach to the wing spar using the wing template. So, according to Van's instructions posted on their web site, I'm at the trailing edge squeezing stage. Could there be some other factor that would account for the unexpectedly reversed in-flight position? Something that should be corrected before squeezing? Or should I just follow Van's advice and squeeze til it flys level? > >Dave Reel - RV8A > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Beadle" <dan.beadle(at)inclinesoftworks.com>
Subject: Fuel Return Tee
Date: May 10, 2006
I checked prices - these are over $500. Very nice. Seems like the best solution. Recirculating warm fuel thru a T doesn't seem like a great solution for cooling servo to get a Hot Start to work. On my C414, they are very difficult to start on a warm Nevada day after shutting down for 15-60 minutes. Exchanging warm fuel from the servo for "cold" fuel from the tanks seems the way to go. Looking at the specs for the Andair valve, it says it is suitable for 200HP engines. They don't have a flow rate spec'ed. I am going with a 210. Is there enough margin there? What size fuel lines are you guys using for IO390s? Thanks Dan Beadle -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael McGee Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 9:14 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Return Tee Vapor Lock Assuming this is a continuous full time re-circulation. Fuel gets heated as it circulates through the fuel injection components up front. It needs to go to the tank to cool. It can get hot enough that the boost pump doesn't create enough pressure to overcome the vaporization. I'm not familiar with the Simmons injection you mentioned. This is a typical question/problem for alternate engine installations. These typically have a constant volume or high pressure pump that has a high recirc volume through the pressure regulator. In this case we have to use something like the Andair Duplex (six port) fuel valve so the recirc goes to the tank it came out of. This valve eliminates the fuel management issue you talked about. The valve is unfortunately very expensive at over $300. http://www.andair.co.uk/system/index.html Mike Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR 13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2 At 20:31 2006-05-09, you wrote: > >I'm plumbing in a new fuel selector, and instead of >having my fuel return (older simmons injection that >has a fuel return) return to the tank, was thinking of >plumbing in a tee in the line just before the fuel >pump. This is because the fuel return is currently >going to one tank, and makes fuel management a chore. > >Any reason why I shouldn't do this? Cavatation, etc? > >Paul Besing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360
Date: May 10, 2006
I just installed a home made bracket on my engine and used 1/8" steel. The 2 previous brackets that I purchased were made of the same material. No idea if this thickness is required but I wasnt going to take a chance. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 265 hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Cudney" <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 10:44 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: throttle bracket for superior io 360 > > Dick: > > I bought some 0.063" 4130 sheet steel and a vice break to bend it today. > I thought I would give fabrication a try. But I would be very > interested in your > drawings. I called Superior today and talked to Fred in their tech > support. > He sent me some pictures that are the same as those listed on the > XP-360 Forum. > There were also some pictures of a Vans throttle bracket where they > gave the > stock bracket an extra bend. > My snail mail address is: > > Dave Cudney > 4996 Cherryhill drive > Riverside, CA 92507 > > Thanks > dave > > On May 9, 2006, at 4:48 PM, mkejrj(at)comcast.net wrote: > >> >> Dave, >> I had the same problem installing Superior's engine in my RV8. I >> fabricated an aluminum bracket which I bolted onto the composite >> sump and used it as the termination point for the throttle cable. >> >> If desired I will mail you my shop drawing of my bracket...Let me >> know your "snail mail" address if interested.The drawing is the end >> result of several days of cut and fit and may save you some time. >> >> Dick Jordan >> RV8A ,N888BZ >> >> -------------- Original message -------------- >> From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> >> >> >>> >>> I have a Superior XP+ io360 with a composite sump and forward facing >>> Precision EX injection. >>> The throttle bracket that comes with Vans firewall foreword kit. will >>> not work. >>> The Composite sump mounting points are spaced differently and are >>> angled. >>> Has anyone out there encountered this problem and what has been the >>> solution >>> >>> thanks >>> RV 7A N554DL >>> dave >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >>
Dave,
>>
  I had the same problem installing Superior's engine in >> my RV8. I fabricated an aluminum bracket which I bolted onto >> the composite sump and used it as the termination point for the >> throttle cable.
>>
 
>>
  If desired I will mail you my shop drawing of my >> bracket...Let me know your "snail mail" address if interested.The >> drawing is the end result of several days of cut and fit and may >> save you some time.
>>
 
>>
  Dick Jordan
>>
  RV8A ,N888BZ
>>
 
>> script >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date: May 10, 2006
Subject: Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360
Id be real cautious about making a throttle bracket of aluminum. Steel will absorb vibration and stress much better. That is a critical piece because if it breaks, you have no throttle control, that's why Van's are steel. Just my .02, YMMV, etc... Jerry Cochran Cc: Dave Cudney Subject: Re: RV-List: throttle bracket for superior io 360 Dave, I had the same problem installing Superior's engine in my RV8. I fabricated an aluminum bracket which I bolted onto the composite sump and used it as the termination point for the throttle cable. If desired I will mail you my shop drawing of my bracket...Let me know your "snail mail" address if interested.The drawing is the end result of several days of cut and fit and may save you some time. Dick Jordan RV8A ,N888BZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2006
Subject: miniature switch
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
I have used a miniature toggle switch that was (on-none-on) that locked in each position. You unlocked it by lifting the operator and then moving the position of the switch to either up or down. These worked great for mag kill switches but now I need one for a power switch. Does anyone have an extra switch laying around they want to sell. I have two mini switches that are push "on" but will not serve me. Jim Nelson RV9Jim(at)Juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Barrow" <bobbarrow10(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: ElectroAir failure record?
Date: May 11, 2006
> > One of the better aspects of the ElectroAir system is the higher >voltage output. This is primarily due to the size of the coils. Compare >these to those found in the E/P Mags.... Could this be one of the >reasons why the E/P Mags installations are running Hot? May I please enquire as to why you say that the E/P MAG systems are "running hot". What, specifically, is the source of that information. _________________________________________________________________ New year, new job there's more than 100,00 jobs at SEEK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360
Date: May 10, 2006
I measured the ones from Vans and they were 0.063 and seemed plenty strong. But there is nothing wrong about going for more strength. I just don't have the tools to bend 0.125 and do a good job of it. dave On May 10, 2006, at 9:33 AM, Jeff Dowling wrote: > > > I just installed a home made bracket on my engine and used 1/8" > steel. The > 2 previous brackets that I purchased were made of the same > material. No > idea if this thickness is required but I wasnt going to take a chance. > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling > RV-6A, N915JD > 265 hours > Chicago/Louisville > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dave Cudney" <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 10:44 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: throttle bracket for superior io 360 > > >> >> Dick: >> >> I bought some 0.063" 4130 sheet steel and a vice break to bend it >> today. >> I thought I would give fabrication a try. But I would be very >> interested in your >> drawings. I called Superior today and talked to Fred in their tech >> support. >> He sent me some pictures that are the same as those listed on the >> XP-360 Forum. >> There were also some pictures of a Vans throttle bracket where they >> gave the >> stock bracket an extra bend. >> My snail mail address is: >> >> Dave Cudney >> 4996 Cherryhill drive >> Riverside, CA 92507 >> >> Thanks >> dave >> >> On May 9, 2006, at 4:48 PM, mkejrj(at)comcast.net wrote: >> >> >>> >>> Dave, >>> I had the same problem installing Superior's engine in my RV8. I >>> fabricated an aluminum bracket which I bolted onto the composite >>> sump and used it as the termination point for the throttle cable. >>> >>> If desired I will mail you my shop drawing of my bracket...Let me >>> know your "snail mail" address if interested.The drawing is the end >>> result of several days of cut and fit and may save you some time. >>> >>> Dick Jordan >>> RV8A ,N888BZ >>> >>> -------------- Original message -------------- >>> From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> >>> >>> >>> >>>> >>>> I have a Superior XP+ io360 with a composite sump and forward >>>> facing >>>> Precision EX injection. >>>> The throttle bracket that comes with Vans firewall foreword kit. >>>> will >>>> not work. >>>> The Composite sump mounting points are spaced differently and are >>>> angled. >>>> Has anyone out there encountered this problem and what has been the >>>> solution >>>> >>>> thanks >>>> RV 7A N554DL >>>> dave >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>>
Dave,
>>>
  I had the same problem installing Superior's engine in >>> my RV8. I fabricated an aluminum bracket which I bolted onto >>> the composite sump and used it as the termination point for the >>> throttle cable.
>>>
 
>>>
  If desired I will mail you my shop drawing of my >>> bracket...Let me know your "snail mail" address if interested.The >>> drawing is the end result of several days of cut and fit and may >>> save you some time.
>>>
 
>>>
  Dick Jordan
>>>
  RV8A ,N888BZ
>>>
 
>>> script >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2006
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: ElectroAir failure record?
On 05/11 7:53, Bob Barrow wrote: > > > > One of the better aspects of the ElectroAir system is the higher > >voltage output. This is primarily due to the size of the coils. Compare > >these to those found in the E/P Mags.... Could this be one of the > >reasons why the E/P Mags installations are running Hot? > > > May I please enquire as to why you say that the E/P MAG systems are "running > hot". What, specifically, is the source of that information. My p-mags are running about 20-30 degrees LESS than the LASAR system I removed, but I am also not running them at maximum advance per the factory, until I get a firmware upgrade. -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com Flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Performance Problem Analysis
Date: May 10, 2006
Tracy Saylor, who's got a very fast 6, modified an old style Van's cowl with inlet rings from Dave Anders and a homemade plenum. He was having heat problems which he tried to solve with a cowl flap. That didn't help so he took it off and the increased exit area with the flap removed was just the ticket. I guess this principle would be: 1.a - less inlet area + extra outlet area makes for reduced pressure under the engine and more efficient air movement = less cooling drag and improved cooling. One could also try an extractor lip on the bottom of the cowl to help the air exit better. Look at the CAF foundation reports. Pax, Ed Holyoke -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 8:57 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Performance Problem Analysis On 22 Apr 2006, at 10:41, lucky wrote: > > WRT James cowl, is it basically just the differently shaped air > inlets and their inlet area that make the difference? What's the > diameter of the openings? In other words, if one took Van's cowl > and redid the openings would that theoretically lower drag?? > > Or is there a fundamental difference in the air outlet area on the > bottom too? > > Anyone ever take a side by side photos and otherwise do a > meaningful compare? > > Just curious and looking for rainy day projects.... Lucky, As I understand it, the performance increase comes from three places: 1. The cowl comes with a plenum chamber, which means more of the air that comes in the inlets actually cools the engine. Baffles leak, so you need to bring in extra air to allow for that leakage. The fact that the plenum chamber has less leakage means less air is needed, so the inlets are smaller. The less air you bring in the inlets, the less cooling drag there is. 2. The contour of the inlet is designed to try to have laminar flow as the air expands, which results in the least amount of drag, and the greatest amount of pressure once the air has expanded. 3. The inlet shape is round. Round inlets have the smallest circumference for a given area, so there is less frictional drag along the walls of the inlet. Any frictional drag results in some pressure loss in the cooling air, which reduces the cooling effectiveness, and means you probably need a bit more air to get the same amount of cooling. This is probably a very minor effect. I believe you could achieve most of the performance increase by having a plenum chamber that has a good seal at the inlet, and reducing the size of the inlets. Many people add plenum chambers, but I believe most of them don't have a good seal at the inlet, so there is quite a bit of leakage there. I also believe that most people don't reduce the size of the inlets. If you don't reduce the size of the inlets, you won't realize any performance increase. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Date: May 10, 2006
Subject: Re: Performance Problem Analysis
It does pay to look very closely at Tracy Saylor's RV-6, and notice what is NOT there. If I remember correctly, Tracy has 4 individual exhaust pipes pointing aft that end just behind the carburetor inside the cowl. I believe the installation is still this way. However, things keep changing on Tracy's RV-6. :-) Regards, Jim Ayers In a message dated 05/10/2006 6:23:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time, bicyclop(at)pacbell.net writes: --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" Tracy Saylor, who's got a very fast 6, modified an old style Van's cowl with inlet rings from Dave Anders and a homemade plenum. He was having heat problems which he tried to solve with a cowl flap. That didn't help so he took it off and the increased exit area with the flap removed was just the ticket. I guess this principle would be: 1.a - less inlet area + extra outlet area makes for reduced pressure under the engine and more efficient air movement = less cooling drag and improved cooling. One could also try an extractor lip on the bottom of the cowl to help the air exit better. Look at the CAF foundation reports. Pax, Ed Holyoke ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2006
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Oil Sample Results
Has anyone ever got negative results on an oil sample? I never have...there's a remark that says everything is normal on everyone I've ever got. I know the reason some of us do it, don't need that lesson, but do you REALLY need to spend the $17/oil change? __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Sample Results
Date: May 10, 2006
> Has anyone ever got negative results on an oil sample? Not "negative" per se, but a warning did come up once: http://rvimg.com/images/2006/20060211_oil_analysis.jpg Nickel was high one time. Hasn't come up since. > lesson, but do you REALLY need to spend the $17/oil change? Not imho, but I do spend $9 every 100 tach hours or so. Found a deal on AOA kits for $88 for 10x kits when buying them directly from Staveley Services. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (898 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Performance Problem Analysis
Date: May 10, 2006
Yup. He started out with longer pipes and cut 'em off a little at a time. He said that each time he shortened them, he got a little faster. The exhaust gas is helping to accelerate the cooling air exiting the cowl or the cooling air is helping to extract the exhaust. Either way, it's helping him go faster. Pax, Ed Holyoke -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LessDragProd(at)aol.com Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 8:18 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Performance Problem Analysis It does pay to look very closely at Tracy Saylor's RV-6, and notice what is NOT there. If I remember correctly, Tracy has 4 individual exhaust pipes pointing aft that end just behind the carburetor inside the cowl. I believe the installation is still this way. However, things keep changing on Tracy's RV-6. :-) Regards, Jim Ayers In a message dated 05/10/2006 6:23:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time, bicyclop(at)pacbell.net writes: --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" Tracy Saylor, who's got a very fast 6, modified an old style Van's cowl with inlet rings from Dave Anders and a homemade plenum. He was having heat problems which he tried to solve with a cowl flap. That didn't help so he took it off and the increased exit area with the flap removed was just the ticket. I guess this principle would be: 1.a - less inlet area + extra outlet area makes for reduced pressure under the engine and more efficient air movement = less cooling drag and improved cooling. One could also try an extractor lip on the bottom of the cowl to help the air exit better. Look at the CAFE foundation reports. Pax, Ed Holyoke ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Oil Sample Results
Date: May 11, 2006
> Not "negative" per se, but a warning did come up once: > http://rvimg.com/images/2006/20060211_oil_analysis.jpg > Nickel was high one time. Hasn't come up since. > > > lesson, but do you REALLY need to spend the $17/oil change? > > Not imho, but I do spend $9 every 100 tach hours or so. > Found a deal on AOA kits for $88 for 10x kits when buying > them directly from Staveley Services. > > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D (898 hours) > http://www.rvproject.com Dan, those numbers are amazingly low. It shows about 30 hours on the oil each time you samples, is that correct? Anyway, my oil change time is 50 hobbs hours, and I usually have analysis numbers about twice yours. When I spoke with an engine expert, he said that my numbers were about half of what he usually sees. So, you should make it to about 8000 hours before needing an overhaul, or about two more years:^) I once had an anomalous set of readings, and did more or less determine that it was likely diesel engine oil that was actually analyzed instead of mine. I like the price of yours better, as I've been paying about $13 for Shell Analysis, which is now just Analysts, Inc. I don't know if it is important, but they do look for more materials: zinc, tin, titanium, boron, sodium, potassium, molybdenum, phosphorus, calcium, barium, antimony and vanadium. Also, I get water content, viscosity, fuel content and TAN, total acid content. I do analyses at every oil change, which is 50 hobbs hours. You want them to be boring, but if the engine is munching itself, I want to know sooner rather than later. The analysis costs about 1% as much as fuel per hour. Alex Peterson RV6-A N66AP 752 hours Maple Grove, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2006
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Sample Results
Paul, I had an incidend that made me a believer. We had a 235 Cherokee. I did oil analysis at every oil change just because I thought it was a good idea. My co-owner was away with the airplane when I received a phone call from the lab for the latest analysis. They called to tell me that one element ( I don't remember which) was abnormally high and it suggested a broken ring. I tracked down my co-owner to tell him the results. He had a mechanic do a bore scope check of all cylinders and found scoring on one cylider wall. With much thought and consultation, he decided that it would be safe to fly the plane home. When the cylinder was removed, there was a broken ring and a scored cylinder. It required replacing piston and cylinder. The engine had only about 700 hours on it since new. Without the oil analysis, I'm not sure that we would have discovered that we had a broken ring. Also not sure what the long term implications would be running with a broke ring. That experience reinforced my general belief that oil analysis is a good idea. I now do it at every oil change even if the time on the oil is less than 50 hours. Every owner can decide for himself whether and how often. Richard Dudley -6A flying Paul Besing wrote: > >Has anyone ever got negative results on an oil sample? > I never have...there's a remark that says everything >is normal on everyone I've ever got. > >I know the reason some of us do it, don't need that >lesson, but do you REALLY need to spend the $17/oil change? > >__________________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360
Date: May 11, 2006
Oops, I said 1/8", should have been 1/16". Sorry. That would be a pretty tough bracket. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 265 hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Cudney" <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 5:01 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: throttle bracket for superior io 360 > > I measured the ones from Vans and they were 0.063 and seemed plenty > strong. > But there is nothing wrong about going for more strength. I just > don't have the tools > to bend 0.125 and do a good job of it. > > dave > > On May 10, 2006, at 9:33 AM, Jeff Dowling wrote: > >> >> >> I just installed a home made bracket on my engine and used 1/8" >> steel. The >> 2 previous brackets that I purchased were made of the same >> material. No >> idea if this thickness is required but I wasnt going to take a chance. >> >> Shemp/Jeff Dowling >> RV-6A, N915JD >> 265 hours >> Chicago/Louisville >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Dave Cudney" <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> >> To: >> Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 10:44 PM >> Subject: Re: RV-List: throttle bracket for superior io 360 >> >> >> >>> >>> Dick: >>> >>> I bought some 0.063" 4130 sheet steel and a vice break to bend it >>> today. >>> I thought I would give fabrication a try. But I would be very >>> interested in your >>> drawings. I called Superior today and talked to Fred in their tech >>> support. >>> He sent me some pictures that are the same as those listed on the >>> XP-360 Forum. >>> There were also some pictures of a Vans throttle bracket where they >>> gave the >>> stock bracket an extra bend. >>> My snail mail address is: >>> >>> Dave Cudney >>> 4996 Cherryhill drive >>> Riverside, CA 92507 >>> >>> Thanks >>> dave >>> >>> On May 9, 2006, at 4:48 PM, mkejrj(at)comcast.net wrote: >>> >>> >>>> >>>> Dave, >>>> I had the same problem installing Superior's engine in my RV8. I >>>> fabricated an aluminum bracket which I bolted onto the composite >>>> sump and used it as the termination point for the throttle cable. >>>> >>>> If desired I will mail you my shop drawing of my bracket...Let me >>>> know your "snail mail" address if interested.The drawing is the end >>>> result of several days of cut and fit and may save you some time. >>>> >>>> Dick Jordan >>>> RV8A ,N888BZ >>>> >>>> -------------- Original message -------------- >>>> From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> >>>>> I have a Superior XP+ io360 with a composite sump and forward >>>>> facing >>>>> Precision EX injection. >>>>> The throttle bracket that comes with Vans firewall foreword kit. >>>>> will >>>>> not work. >>>>> The Composite sump mounting points are spaced differently and are >>>>> angled. >>>>> Has anyone out there encountered this problem and what has been the >>>>> solution >>>>> >>>>> thanks >>>>> RV 7A N554DL >>>>> dave >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>>
Dave,
>>>>
  I had the same problem installing Superior's engine in >>>> my RV8. I fabricated an aluminum bracket which I bolted onto >>>> the composite sump and used it as the termination point for the >>>> throttle cable.
>>>>
 
>>>>
  If desired I will mail you my shop drawing of my >>>> bracket...Let me know your "snail mail" address if interested.The >>>> drawing is the end result of several days of cut and fit and may >>>> save you some time.
>>>>
 
>>>>
  Dick Jordan
>>>>
  RV8A ,N888BZ
>>>>
 
>>>> script >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Sample Results
Date: May 11, 2006
> Dan, I run mine well lean of peak also, and have for 750 hours. I suspect > some of the difference is number of hours between changes. Gotcha. Yeah, I do oil changes somewhere between 25-30 tach hours. I change the filter every other oil change. Those oil analyses of mine were mixed...some were taken during the first "half" of the filter's life, some were taken at the filter change. You run electronic ignition as well, right? I believe EI contributes to a cleaner burn and helps leave less for the oil to take on. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (900 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2006
From: sportav8r(at)aol.com
Subject: FAB and carb wear, '98 FP O-320 RV-6A
Checking some incidental things after the fuel tank SB was done (unusable fuel quantity and flow rates from each tank) I discovered how much havoc the engine vibes have been wreaking on FWF stuff since my last good look in there. The carb heat flapper in the FAB has broken a hinge eyelet, the hinge has cracked away from one side of the FAB fiberglass sidewall, the flap itself, which used to lie flush inside a slightly smaller hot air intake hole, has fretted its way all the way through the aluminum FAB top so that in the full-open position it actually leaks induction air out the top of the FAB. Most distressing to me was the realization that the vibration-motion of the FAB against the lower cowl intake scoop had caused the carb halves to fret and loosen considerably on their gasket, even though the 4 screws holding the upper and lower carb halves remain firmly safetied in their original positions. The FAB and lower carb body to which it is bolted can be rocked easily left- to-right with trivial pressure on the air inlet portion of the FAB. I had noted the abrupt appearance of gel-coat cracks in the cowling around all the front openings since my prop was balanced 2 years ago, and now this... The prop and engine are much smoother-running than ever, but fatigue/wear seems to be escalating. Probably a coincidental observation on an airframe that is starting to show its 580 hours, but curious just the same. Maybe I can blame this on the P-mags ;-) ...not. I'm curious whether anyone else has experienced this thing with their carb and FAB gradually coming apart in pieces. -Stormy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: FAB and carb wear, '98 FP O-320 RV-6A
Yes indeed Stormy. At my condition inspection in January, I had to replace the carb heat hinge in its entirety and reinforce the top of the FAB where it expands outboard to accommodate the air filter. And there had been repairs in that area before I got the plane. RV-6A. O-360, over 1000 hours, FP prop, one LSE ignition Ron Lee At 01:24 PM 5/11/2006, you wrote: > >Checking some incidental things after the fuel tank SB was done (unusable >fuel quantity and flow rates from each tank) I discovered how much havoc >the engine vibes have been wreaking on FWF stuff since my last good look >in there. The carb heat flapper in the FAB has broken a hinge eyelet, the >hinge has cracked away from one side of the FAB fiberglass sidewall, the >flap itself, which used to lie flush inside a slightly smaller hot air >intake hole, has fretted its way all the way through the aluminum FAB top >so that in the full-open position it actually leaks induction air out the >top of the FAB. Most distressing to me was the realization that the >vibration-motion of the FAB against the lower cowl intake scoop had caused >the carb halves to fret and loosen considerably on their gasket, even >though the 4 screws holding the upper and lower carb halves remain firmly >safetied in their original positions. The FAB and lower carb body to >which it is bolted can be rocked easily left- > to-right with trivial pressure on the air inlet portion of the FAB. > >I had noted the abrupt appearance of gel-coat cracks in the cowling around >all the front openings since my prop was balanced 2 years ago, and now >this... The prop and engine are much smoother-running than ever, but >fatigue/wear seems to be escalating. Probably a coincidental observation >on an airframe that is starting to show its 580 hours, but curious just >the same. Maybe I can blame this on the P-mags ;-) ...not. > >I'm curious whether anyone else has experienced this thing with their carb >and FAB gradually coming apart in pieces. > >-Stormy > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Tail Wheel Woes
Date: May 11, 2006
Hi all, I had an incident last week that really got my attention. Upon landing, when I lowered my RV-8's tail wheel to the runway the tail popped back up suddenly and when it came down again the airplane made a sudden 20-degree left turn off the runway. My neighbor was watching and he said he saw the tail wheel spinning around 360 degrees (on the vertical axis) after it bounced the first time. Post-incident autopsy revealed that the spring-loaded pin that locks the tail wheel was stuck in the retracted position. I removed the pin, polished it and carefully filed the pin hole and lubricated the assembly. It works fine, for now, but I am concerned that the airplane veered so suddenly just because the tail wheel was apparently unlocked at touchdown. I would assume that air loads would fix it in the trail position and once contacting the runway that the castor would do the same. I'm a little gun-shy now since I can't explain why the airplane reacted as it did. I would feel a bit better if others have had similar problems and I would be really excited if someone has a solution to my problem. What say you? Ron Schreck RV--8 "Miss Izzy" Gold Hill Airpark, NC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Subject: Re: Tail Wheel Woes
Date: May 11, 2006
sort of... without know how it affected them, the woodruff key is well known in these parts to get "stuck" if you don't take all the edges off and make sure there are no burs. So I had more than one local RV builder tell me to take care of that problem before first flight. In that sense, you are not alone. -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)alltel.net> > > Hi all, > > I had an incident last week that really got my attention. Upon landing, > when I lowered my RV-8's tail wheel to the runway the tail popped back > up suddenly and when it came down again the airplane made a sudden > 20-degree left turn off the runway. My neighbor was watching and he > said he saw the tail wheel spinning around 360 degrees (on the vertical > axis) after it bounced the first time. Post-incident autopsy revealed > that the spring-loaded pin that locks the tail wheel was stuck in the > retracted position. I removed the pin, polished it and carefully filed > the pin hole and lubricated the assembly. It works fine, for now, but I > am concerned that the airplane veered so suddenly just because the tail > wheel was apparently unlocked at touchdown. I would assume that air > loads would fix it in the trail position and once contacting the runway > that the castor would do the same. I'm a little gun-shy now since I > can't explain why the airplane reacted as it did. I would feel a bit > better if others have had similar problems and I would be really excited > if someone has a solution to my problem. What say you? > > Ron Schreck > RV--8 "Miss Izzy" > Gold Hill Airpark, NC > > > > > > > > > > > > >
sort of...
 
without know how it affected them, the woodruff key is well known in these parts to get "stuck" if you don't take all the edges off and make sure there are no burs.  So I had more than one local RV builder tell me to take care of that problem before first flight. In that sense, you are not alone.
 

> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck"
>
> Hi all,
>
> I had an incident last week that really got my attention. Upon landing,
> when I lowered my RV-8's tail wheel to the runway the tail popped back
> up suddenly and when it came down again the airplane made a sudden
> 20-degree left turn off the runway. My neighbor was watching and he
> said he saw the tail wheel spinning around 360 degrees (on the vertical
> axis) after it bounced the first time. Post-incident autopsy revealed
> that the spring-loaded pin that locks the tail wheel was stuck in the
> retracted position. I removed the pin, polished it and carefully filed
> the pin hole and lubricated the assembly . It w wse, C ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Date: May 11, 2006
Subject: Re: Tail Wheel Woes
>From the early RV-3 days, the tail wheel does NOT position itself "in trail". I have an RV-3 with a locking/full swivel tail wheel. I place the tail wheel lever in the locked position as I am turning onto the runway. When I have lined up on the runway, I kick the rudder both directions to confirm the tail wheel is locked. Just a little history. Don't know if this helps you. Regards, Jim Ayers In a message dated 05/11/2006 2:17:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ronschreck(at)alltel.net writes: Hi all, (Stuff Cut) I would assume that air loads would fix it in the trail position and once contacting the runway that the castor would do the same. I'm a little gun-shy now since I can't explain why the airplane reacted as it did. I would feel a bit better if others have had similar problems and I would be really excited if someone has a solution to my problem. What say you? Ron Schreck RV--8 "Miss Izzy" Gold Hill Airpark, NC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JVanLaak(at)aol.com
Date: May 11, 2006
Subject: Electro-air failures
List, I had one Electroair system on a previous RV-6 built in the mid-90s. It was a beautiful installation (I was not the builder) and worked beautifully most of the time. Then I had a series of incidents when during high climb in cool weather the engine would begin a severe knock and vibration together with a loss of power. Naturally I would retard the throttle until the knocking stopped, usually about 20 inches or so. I went through many steps trying to find the source of the problem. Timing, plugs, ignition unit, wires, valves, etc. etc. After I found a loose plug where the primer goes into one of the cylinders (causing it to go lean when the cylinder heated up quickly) the problem seemed licked. The plane was sold in the early summer to take care of college expenses for my daughter and the new owner was thrilled with the plane. But when the cool weather came back he started to have the problem I just described on an intermittent basis. I felt bad that I had sold a problem to him but he loved the airplane so much he could not be angry. He eventually figured out that the manifold pressure sensor had some kind of an intermittent failure mode that was causing the problem and its replacement has removed the problem. Bottom line is I liked the system very much but this intermittent problem severely impacted the value of the airplane. The step I could have taken but did not was to replace the system totally or with a mag. Jim Flying RV-6 N79RL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2006
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Tru Trak Digitrak Issues
Anyone have issues with TruTrak lately? It took about 6 weeks to get mine after begging and pleading they send it to me. Finally I said, "I at least need the servo since my whole airplane insides are removed and would like to install it." They said fine, but then said the got one together to send me. They don't keep finished autopilots on the shelf, I'm told. John Stark is who I purchased it from and he said 2-4 weeks is typical, but mine was more like 6. Not a big deal if you are building your airplane, but when you are planning trips and planning a new instrument panel install on a finished airplane, delivery time become an issue. Then, when it showed up in the mail, the darn buttons that have the arched arrows are installed backwards. So now I have to send the darn thing back and not fly with it on a trip this weekend like I had planned. Not good so far...after reading the Trio website, I'm thinking I should have gone Trio. (not to start a trio/trutrak war, by any means) Paul Besing __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2006
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Subject: We lost Scott Crossfield today
> With embedded CBs about, unless you have onboard weather of some sort, > VFR is really the only sane option That's sort of true. But if you can fly IFR in VMC (e.g., on top of a stratus layer) where you can see the CB or CVD cells, that's still "sane." (Accepting, for the purpose of argument, that you consider IFR in a single-engine airplane sane in the first place.) There is the possibility that you can't get ATC to clear you to deviate from your routing to steer around CBs (been there, due to radio failure). But in theory there's nothing wrong with it. Tedd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: We lost Scott Crossfield today
Date: May 11, 2006
On 11-May-06, at 8:54 PM, Tedd McHenry wrote: > >> With embedded CBs about, unless you have onboard weather of some >> sort, >> VFR is really the only sane option > > That's sort of true. But if you can fly IFR in VMC (e.g., on top > of a stratus > layer) where you can see the CB or CVD cells, that's still > "sane." (Accepting, > for the purpose of argument, that you consider IFR in a single- > engine airplane > sane in the first place.) > > There is the possibility that you can't get ATC to clear you to > deviate from > your routing to steer around CBs (been there, due to radio > failure). But in > theory there's nothing wrong with it. Radio working or not, there is nothing ATC can say that would convince me to knowingly go into a CB. I'll take my chances with conflicting traffic by declaring an emergency and violating my clearance, if I have to. If I can't get them on the radio, I'll deviate and tell them about it later. They aren't flying the airplane, I am. Kevin Horton RV-8 (Finishing Kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Subject: We lost Scott Crossfield today
Date: May 11, 2006
It's surprising what squawking 7700 will do. Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 9:37 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: We lost Scott Crossfield today On 11-May-06, at 8:54 PM, Tedd McHenry wrote: > >> With embedded CBs about, unless you have onboard weather of some >> sort, >> VFR is really the only sane option > > That's sort of true. But if you can fly IFR in VMC (e.g., on top > of a stratus > layer) where you can see the CB or CVD cells, that's still > "sane." (Accepting, > for the purpose of argument, that you consider IFR in a single- > engine airplane > sane in the first place.) > > There is the possibility that you can't get ATC to clear you to > deviate from > your routing to steer around CBs (been there, due to radio > failure). But in > theory there's nothing wrong with it. Radio working or not, there is nothing ATC can say that would convince me to knowingly go into a CB. I'll take my chances with conflicting traffic by declaring an emergency and violating my clearance, if I have to. If I can't get them on the radio, I'll deviate and tell them about it later. They aren't flying the airplane, I am. Kevin Horton RV-8 (Finishing Kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Date: May 11, 2006
Subject: Re: Tru Trak Digitrak Issues
I gave had some positive & negative response from TruTrak. When a servo went bad they quickly sent one and then I returned the failed unit. I bought the ADI last June and have yet to receive the backup battery. They keep telling me it will be shipped soon. I asked about returning the ADI for refund & was told I could get a credit toward some other product. NOT A HAPPY CAMPER!!! Doug Preston RV-7 N731RV RV-7A N196VA RV-10 40372 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Tail Wheel Woes
Date: May 12, 2006
After some 200+ hours my tail wheel suddenly stopped locking. when I disassembled it I found that the spindle had started to gall at the top and a fine sliver of metal had worked its way into the slot for the locking pin, very effectively jamming the pin in the retracted position. After some careful filing and polishing of the spindle, the pin and the slot, and two tries, I think I have got it working properly again. I'm certain the original problem was caused by lack of lubrication at the top of the spindle. As was reported several years ago on this list, just shooting grease into the zirk fitting on the housing does not guarantee that grease will get to the top of the spindle where it is really needed. from now on I will disassemble and grease the spindle and locking pin at every 25 hour oil change. For those tailwheel builders our there I suggest that you disassemble the locking mechanism and carefully smooth all the edges and corners of the locking pin and grease it well before reassembling it. Harry Crosby RV-6 N16CX, 209 hours -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)alltel.net> > > Hi all, > > I had an incident last week that really got my attention. Upon landing, > when I lowered my RV-8's tail wheel to the runway the tail popped back > up suddenly and when it came down again the airplane made a sudden > 20-degree left turn off the runway. My neighbor was watching and he > said he saw the tail wheel spinning around 360 degrees (on the vertical > axis) after it bounced the first time. Post-incident autopsy revealed > that the spring-loaded pin that locks the tail wheel was stuck in the > retracted position. I removed the pin, polished it and carefully filed > the pin hole and lubricated the assembly. It works fine, for now, but I > am concerned that the airplane veered so suddenly just because the tail > wheel was apparently unlocked at touchdown. I would assume that air > loads would fix it in the trail position and once contacting the runway > that the castor would do the same. I'm a little gun-shy now since I > can't explain why the airplane reacted as it did. I would feel a bit > better if others have had similar problems and I would be really excited > if someone has a solution to my problem. What say you? > > Ron Schreck > RV--8 "Miss Izzy" > Gold Hill Airpark, NC > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
Subject: Tail Wheel Woes ...
Date: May 12, 2006
Ron, Same problem here with the tailwheel doing it's own merry dance, which very very nearly spoilt my day with a strong cross-wind and severely reduced directional control . The woodruff key was stuck in. Just shows how a ten pence item can cause chaos - I think with an item of this nature which has a history of going wrong - there should be a design or parts change or perhaps just better manufacturing QC. I have ordered a new tailwheel from Doug Bell, and I am hopeful that this problem will be a thing of the past, and in the meantime it is a priority part of my pre-flight. Rgds, Nic >Hi all, >I had an incident last week that really got my attention. Upon landing, >when I lowered my RV-8's tail wheel to the runway the tail popped back >up suddenly and when it came down again the airplane made a sudden 20-degree left turn off the runway ....... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Tail Wheel Woes ...
Date: May 12, 2006
> The woodruff key was stuck in. Just shows how a ten pence item can cause > chaos - I think with an item of this nature which has a history of going > wrong - there should be a design or parts change or perhaps just better > manufacturing QC. > > I have ordered a new tailwheel from Doug Bell, and I am hopeful that this > problem will be a thing of the past, and in the meantime it is a priority > part of my pre-flight. Nic, The problem you saw would have occurred with Doug Bell's tailwheel fork as well -- and while Doug's tailwheel fork is very nice (I have one), it's not a cure-all. It has the identical key/shaft design as Van's fork...in fact you use Van's key with it. We ought to do "regular maintenance" on our tailwheels regardless of tailwheel/fork type. FWIW, I completely disassemble, clean, rebuild, and lube my tailwheel/fork every 75-100 hours or so, with at least one interim lube through the zerk fitting (more often if I've taxied through puddles or flown through rain). The key gets particular attention and I usually do have to smooth out the burrs that are forming, even if it hadn't caused a problem yet. If you pay close attention you can "feel" the symptom coming on over time and avoid it. That said, imho all taildragger pilots need to be prepared for the scenario where they have no tailwheel steering on landing. The plane flies just fine, and you should have rudder authority down to a speed at which differential braking is used (yet another reason to keep your brakes in tip-top shape). This may sound funny, but if the key ever sticks and you lose steering, my 2 cents is to *take advantage* of that opportunity to practice handling it -- before you fix it. Maybe not a takeoff/landing if you're not confident about that, but at least taxi around a bit and get the feel for using only rudder & brakes. That way you're better prepared if and when it bites you. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (901 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2006
From: Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: FAB and carb wear, '98 FP O-320 RV-6A
Bill Yes, at each annual I need to do something to fix the FAB, mainly where the control cable attaches to the alt air door, I have replace it twice. Also the the plate that mounts the FAB to the Carb has been replace due to serious cracks. Bob >I'm curious whether anyone else has experienced this thing with their carb >and FAB gradually coming apart in pieces. > >-Stormy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2006
From: sportav8r(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Tru Trak Digitrak Issues
I "went Trio," have had some issues which they were extremely quick and helpful with, and now have but one regret: eventual compatibility with GRT EFIS for coupled approach capability (specifically the glideslope portion) seems far off in the future and doubtful at best. My Trio system may be reluctantly for sale later this year, as I make the transition to glass panel and IFR capability. But I cannot say enough good things about the performance vs. price and the customer care at Trio. -Stormy -----Original Message----- From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV-List: Tru Trak Digitrak Issues Anyone have issues with TruTrak lately? It took about 6 weeks to get mine after begging and pleading they send it to me. Finally I said, "I at least need the servo since my whole airplane insides are removed and would like to install it." They said fine, but then said the got one together to send me. They don't keep finished autopilots on the shelf, I'm told. John Stark is who I purchased it from and he said 2-4 weeks is typical, but mine was more like 6. Not a big deal if you are building your airplane, but when you are planning trips and planning a new instrument panel install on a finished airplane, delivery time become an issue. Then, when it showed up in the mail, the darn buttons that have the arched arrows are installed backwards. So now I have to send the darn thing back and not fly with it on a trip this weekend like I had planned. Not good so far...after reading the Trio website, I'm thinking I should have gone Trio. (not to start a trio/trutrak war, by any means) Paul Besing __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "frank goggio" <fgoggio(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: steps breaking on tri gear rvs
Date: May 12, 2006
guys,dont get on the list much,but read a lot of whats on here, dont recall anything about the steps on the nose gear models breaking,a friend has a new 9a with 68 hrs on it, was under it checking the bottom,wipeing it off,happened to look up at the step on the drivers side from the bottom and it was cracked,half way round right at the weld,you had to look close to see it but its there, going to have to remove the step from the plane and reweld it,it was the tube itself,not the weld,he stated that he checked with vans and they were aware of this problem,this is the first i had heard of this,has anyone else had this problem?,if you drive a nose gear with the steps,you might check yours the next time out before it breaks on you and dumps you in the dirt.just thought that i would pass this on, it might save someome from getting hurt getting out of the plane, now i got to go check mine, frank goggio fayeteville nc rv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2006
From: Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Tail Wheel SB?
This sounds like maybe a Mandatory Emergency (before the next flight) SB that should be issued by Van's? Everyone that does not have this problem should have to feel the pain (I personally would make this mandatory for nosewheel RVs as well, they have it much too easy as it is). Just like the fuel tank SB, billions of lives could be saved!?! Bob >The woodruff key was stuck in. Just shows how a ten pence item can cause >chaos - I think with an item of this nature which has a history of going >wrong - there should be a design or parts change or perhaps just better >manufacturing QC. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: steps breaking on tri gear rvs
Haven't installed mine yet - guess I'll check the welds first...... Thanks for the heads-up! -----Original Message----- >From: frank goggio <fgoggio(at)nc.rr.com> >Sent: May 12, 2006 2:02 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: steps breaking on tri gear rvs > > >guys,dont get on the list much,but read a lot of whats on here, dont recall >anything about the steps on the nose gear models breaking,a friend has a new >9a with 68 hrs on it, was under it checking the bottom,wipeing it >off,happened to look up at the step on the drivers side from the bottom and >it was cracked,half way round right at the weld,you had to look close to see >it but its there, going to have to remove the step from the plane and reweld >it,it was the tube itself,not the weld,he stated that he checked with vans >and they were aware of this problem,this is the first i had heard of >this,has anyone else had this problem?,if you drive a nose gear with the >steps,you might check yours the next time out before it breaks on you and >dumps you in the dirt.just thought that i would pass this on, it might save >someome from getting hurt getting out of the plane, now i got to go check >mine, > >frank goggio >fayeteville nc >rv6a > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: steps breaking on tri gear rvs
Date: May 12, 2006
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net>
I had mine welded in place. Mine cracked at the weld joint, underneath, at the tube to plate. A good tig welder(not me) hardly blistered the nearby paint and no one could tell. Best, Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of frank goggio Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 2:03 PM Subject: RV-List: steps breaking on tri gear rvs guys,dont get on the list much,but read a lot of whats on here, dont recall anything about the steps on the nose gear models breaking,a friend has a new 9a with 68 hrs on it, was under it checking the bottom,wipeing it off,happened to look up at the step on the drivers side from the bottom and it was cracked,half way round right at the weld,you had to look close to see it but its there, going to have to remove the step from the plane and reweld it,it was the tube itself,not the weld,he stated that he checked with vans and they were aware of this problem,this is the first i had heard of this,has anyone else had this problem?,if you drive a nose gear with the steps,you might check yours the next time out before it breaks on you and dumps you in the dirt.just thought that i would pass this on, it might save someome from getting hurt getting out of the plane, now i got to go check mine, frank goggio fayeteville nc rv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2006
From: sportav8r(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: steps breaking on tri gear rvs
My suggested fix, if it cracks: bend it back & forth till it breaks off, then fill with Bondo and paint over. Do without from then on. I have a Van's mother-in-law step for the pax, but it is a luxury, and probably costs a knot or two, hangin' out in the breeze. When I get too old to mount my "steed" without a step, it's time to hang up the spurs... -Stormy -----Original Message----- From: Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) <mstewart(at)iss.net> Subject: RE: RV-List: steps breaking on tri gear rvs I had mine welded in place. Mine cracked at the weld joint, underneath, at the tube to plate. A good tig welder(not me) hardly blistered the nearby paint and no one could tell. Best, Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of frank goggio Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 2:03 PM Subject: RV-List: steps breaking on tri gear rvs guys,dont get on the list much,but read a lot of whats on here, dont recall anything about the steps on the nose gear models breaking,a friend has a new 9a with 68 hrs on it, was under it checking the bottom,wipeing it off,happened to look up at the step on the drivers side from the bottom and it was cracked,half way round right at the weld,you had to look close to see it but its there, going to have to remove the step from the plane and reweld it,it was the tube itself,not the weld,he stated that he checked with vans and they were aware of this problem,this is the first i had heard of this,has anyone else had this problem?,if you drive a nose gear with the steps,you might check yours the next time out before it breaks on you and dumps you in the dirt.just thought that i would pass this on, it might save someome from getting hurt getting out of the plane, now i got to go check mine, frank goggio fayeteville nc rv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net>
Subject: RV-4 for Sale
Date: May 12, 2006
I am listing this for a friend of mine who has an RV-4 for sale. It has an O-320-D1A with 310 TTAE bought new from Van's. It is VFR and is in great shape. This is a very nice RV-4 that was built by a close friend of mine who is a retired sheet metal fabricator. This was the 3rd RV that he built and the workmanship is flawless. It is yellow and red. My friend is asking $45,000 for it. If you are interested or have any other questions you can contact Richard at rblakesl(at)ptd.net . Or I will try to answer any questions I can for you. Thanks, Jim Jim Cimino N7TL RV-8 S/N 80039 200+ Hours http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net>
Subject: Archer for Sale
Date: May 12, 2006
A good friend of mine is selling his 1976 Archer. This plane is in great shape with low time and very low time on the engine. It has been hangered all it's life. It is IFR and would be a great aircraft for someone looking to haul four people or build time and get ratings. I have flown this plane many times and have no complaints. If you know anyone, drop me an e-mail and I will put you in touch with the owner. He is asking $65,000 for it. Thanks, Jim Jim Cimino N7TL RV-8 S/N 80039 200+ Hours http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net>
Subject: Wrong e-mail for the RV-4 for sale
Date: May 12, 2006
Correction on Richard's e-mail address, it is: rblakes(at)ptd.net Thanks, Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 4:51 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-4 for Sale > > I am listing this for a friend of mine who has an RV-4 for sale. It has > an O-320-D1A with 310 TTAE bought new from Van's. It is VFR and is in > great shape. This is a very nice RV-4 that was built by a close friend > of mine who is a retired sheet metal fabricator. This was the 3rd RV > that he built and the workmanship is flawless. It is yellow and red. > My friend is asking $45,000 for it. If you are interested or have any > other questions you can contact Richard at rblakesl(at)ptd.net . Or I will > try to answer any questions I can for you. > Thanks, > Jim > > Jim Cimino > N7TL > RV-8 S/N 80039 > 200+ Hours > http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2006
Subject: Lightspeed EI installation
From: Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
Fellow Listers: I am into a major project installing a dual Lightspeed Ignition system in my flying RV-4. It will be using the direct crank sensor installation. This project is just about done and I am beginning to do some preliminary tests are stated in the LSI manual. I have run a magnetic across the sensors on both systems on the direct crank sensor circuit board and the coils fire fine across their terminals. Here is my question. I have carefully measured the calculated clearance between the sensors on the circuit board and the small magnets which are installed in the ring gear (I had LSI install them so I assume they are in the correct position). I have been trying to see if I can get the coils to fire my temporarily positioning the starter ring gear and moving the engine through TDC. No luck in getting them to fire. Now I don't know if this is a valid test. I assume I am moving the ring gear fast enough through the sensor positions but it is hard to say. For any of you that have installed the LSI system with the direct crank sensor, did you have any issues like this?. Or did you put it together and it just ran?? Doug Weiler N722DW, 290 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Lightspeed EI installation
Date: May 12, 2006
> SNIP > Here is my question. I have carefully measured the > calculated clearance between the sensors on the circuit board > and the small magnets which are installed in the ring gear (I > had LSI install them so I assume they are in > the correct position). I have been trying to see if I can > get the coils to > fire my temporarily positioning the starter ring gear and > moving the engine through TDC. No luck in getting them to > fire. Now I don't know if this is a valid test. I assume I > am moving the ring gear fast enough through the sensor > positions but it is hard to say. > > For any of you that have installed the LSI system with the > direct crank sensor, did you have any issues like this?. Or > did you put it together and it just ran?? > > Doug Weiler > N722DW, 290 hours Doug, are you moving the ring gear back and forth? The sensor needs to see two magnets within .5 seconds in order to fire. Alex Peterson RV6-A N66AP 752 hours, with my own magnet issues with the Lightspeed installation Maple Grove, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Lightspeed EI installation
Date: May 12, 2006
You need to rotate the prop (or flywheel) somewhat quickly to get it to fire. I suspect the issue you're seeing is that you're not moving it quickly enough. My experience with my Plasma II was that if you don't rotate the prop/flywheel quickly enough during the phase test, you won't see the coils firing. Otherwise, Klaus should be able to help you. Give him a call on the phone...contact info at the bottom of this page: http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/ Where are you located? If you're anywhere near SoCal I could probably give you a hand. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (901 hours on a Plasma II) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)mnwing.org> Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 5:45 PM Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed EI installation > > Fellow Listers: > > I am into a major project installing a dual Lightspeed Ignition system in > my > flying RV-4. It will be using the direct crank sensor installation. This > project is just about done and I am beginning to do some preliminary tests > are stated in the LSI manual. I have run a magnetic across the sensors on > both systems on the direct crank sensor circuit board and the coils fire > fine across their terminals. > > Here is my question. I have carefully measured the calculated clearance > between the sensors on the circuit board and the small magnets which are > installed in the ring gear (I had LSI install them so I assume they are in > the correct position). I have been trying to see if I can get the coils > to > fire my temporarily positioning the starter ring gear and moving the > engine > through TDC. No luck in getting them to fire. Now I don't know if this > is > a valid test. I assume I am moving the ring gear fast enough through the > sensor positions but it is hard to say. > > For any of you that have installed the LSI system with the direct crank > sensor, did you have any issues like this?. Or did you put it together > and > it just ran?? > > Doug Weiler > N722DW, 290 hours > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Subject: Looking for an O-320E2A
Date: May 12, 2006
Logs reconstructed on the high side but my 6a is running with a 2200hr per log engine, runs like a top, not a single leak, and nothing found in oil filter. Unlike most, I change oil AND filter at 25 hrs. Cant see running new oil tru a dirty filter as some folks do. I would run her till she shows signs of trouble, but shaking fingers has me spooked a little. Looks like an OH, will cost more than I can buy a good engine for. And of course, I could take Tweetybird in for an OH, and horror of horrors, that reasonable cost could get out of hand as they found crank out of tollerance, probably cam as well. If I were gambling I would choose a cert rebuilt over having mine donw for that reasonm. I have seen engines in $12k range with near zero time, but never get a reply, guess they went. I had a buddy that had 2500 on his O-360 in his Grumman 5A when he sold it, also have a freind than got 3200 out of his O-320 in a C model. Any Help? Charlie Heathco ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
Subject: Tail Wheel Woes
Date: May 13, 2006
Dan, Thanks for your feedback on the Bell tailwheel (mine has yet to rrive) - it sounds as though I will need to be vigilant on the maintenance. In several yeas I have never once had this problem with my Pitts S1, which can be a handful in strong conditions and is fitted with a Maule TW. I agree about tailwheel steering awareness - in this case I had a v. strong crosswind and managed to control the roll out until the rudder became ineffective, however the crosswind was far too strong for differential braking without additional power and blew the plane towards the edge of the runway - and therein lies the problem, as in order to keep her straight (I had no passenger in the back) the tail lifted and I am sure you know the scenario. I shutdown, had a cup of tea, and then got a guy to ride in the back to the hangar, where we stripped the TW and found the problem, and now all is well. Anyway, my point is that the Vans tailwheel design or manufacturing should be improved. In extreme conditions, it can cause pilots severe damage to the aircraft, if it fails, as it regularly does without special attention. In my opinion it is not safe (others have obviously had the same problems). I think you will agree that a pilot that has spent several years building an RV8, shouldn't have to find out the hard way, that a new tailwheel with zero hours has a problem which "could" cause the aircraft to end up off the runway. Rgds, Nic >The problem you saw would have occurred with Doug Bell's tailwheel fork as >well -- and while Doug's tailwheel fork is very nice (I have one), it's not >a cure-all. It has the identical key/shaft design as Van's fork...in fact >you use Van's key with it. >That said, imho all taildragger pilots need to be prepared for the scenario >where they have no tailwheel steering on landing. The plane flies just >fine, and you should have rudder authority down to a speed at which >differential braking is used (yet another reason to keep your brakes in >tip-top shape). This may sound funny, but if the key ever sticks and you >lose steering, my 2 cents is to *take advantage* of that opportunity to >practice handling it -- before you fix it. Maybe not a takeoff/landing if >you're not confident about that, but at least taxi around a bit and get the >feel for using only rudder & brakes. That way you're better prepared if and >when it bites you. Dan, RV-7 N714D (901 hours) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date: May 13, 2006
Subject: Re: Looking for an O-320E2A
Charlie, You might be able to buy a new Superior XP360 and sell your core for a net of close to the cost of an overhaul or less.... Just a thought. Jerry Cochran Wilsonville, OR In a message dated 5/13/2006 12:05:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes: From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> Subject: RV-List: Looking for an O-320E2A Logs reconstructed on the high side but my 6a is running with a 2200hr per log engine, runs like a top, not a single leak, and nothing found in oil filter. Unlike most, I change oil AND filter at 25 hrs. Cant see running new oil tru a dirty filter as some folks do. I would run her till she shows signs of trouble, but shaking fingers has me spooked a little. Looks like an OH, will cost more than I can buy a good engine for. And of course, I could take Tweetybird in for an OH, and horror of horrors, that reasonable cost could get out of hand as they found crank out of tollerance, probably cam as well. If I were gambling I would choose a cert rebuilt over having mine donw for that reasonm. I have seen engines in $12k range with near zero time, but never get a reply, guess they went. I had a buddy that had 2500 on his O-360 in his Grumman 5A when he sold it, also have a freind than got 3200 out of his O-320 in a C model. Any Help? Charlie Heathco ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mts.net>
Subject: For Sale: G-Meter
Date: May 13, 2006
Hi listers, I'm selling a Falcon 2 1/4" G-meter, GM510-2, used 3 years in my RV-6, and in excellent condition. $125 US OBO plus shipping. ($228 new from Van's) Curt RV-6 C-GACR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2006
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: For Sale: G-Meter
Curt Reimer wrote: > >Hi listers, I'm selling a Falcon 2 1/4" G-meter, GM510-2, used 3 years in my >RV-6, and in excellent condition. > >$125 US OBO plus shipping. ($228 new from Van's) > >Curt >RV-6 C-GACR > sold, if still available. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mts.net>
Subject: Re: For Sale: G-Meter
Date: May 13, 2006
The G-Meter has been sold. thanks, Curt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mts.net> Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 6:41 PM Subject: RV-List: For Sale: G-Meter > > Hi listers, I'm selling a Falcon 2 1/4" G-meter, GM510-2, used 3 years in > my


April 27, 2006 - May 13, 2006

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