RV-Archive.digest.vol-ry
May 13, 2006 - May 30, 2006
> RV-6, and in excellent condition.
>
> $125 US OBO plus shipping. ($228 new from Van's)
>
> Curt
> RV-6 C-GACR
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | panel installation - radio trays |
I am getting down to the little details on panel design and am wondering
about clearance between instruments and my radio stack. The "stack" is
only an SL-30 radio and a KT-76C transponder. I have the trasponder in
hand, but not the radio yet. (I guess it's about time I rodered it.)
I gather these are normally mounted in a some sort of framework that
attaches to the panel but I've never seen one of these. How close can I
realistically place an instrument to this support frame? Does any one
have any photos on their web site that I can look at?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: panel installation - radio trays |
On 05/13 7:26, sarg314 wrote:
> I am getting down to the little details on panel design and am wondering
> about clearance between instruments and my radio stack. The "stack" is
> only an SL-30 radio and a KT-76C transponder. I have the trasponder in
> hand, but not the radio yet. (I guess it's about time I rodered it.)
>
> I gather these are normally mounted in a some sort of framework that
> attaches to the panel but I've never seen one of these. How close can I
> realistically place an instrument to this support frame? Does any one
> have any photos on their web site that I can look at?
I used 3/4" al angle for the frame, behind and attached to the panel.
I suppose you could use 1/2" al angle too.
See pics and desc here. Look for entry dated 6/14/04
http://www.rv7-a.com/avionics.htm
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: panel installation - radio trays |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Tom,
Installing a radio stack is fairly straightforward. I used .032 aluminum angle
stock to tie the trays together and to the back of the panel. The two photographs
(of my Garmin 430 stack) should give you a fairly good idea of a typical
installation whether for 2 trays or 5 trays....the idea is about the same.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/3903/radiostack029bh.jpg
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/527/radiostack031zh.jpg
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 124 hours
.......I gather these are normally mounted in a some sort of framework that attaches
to the panel but I've never seen one of these. How close can I realistically
place an instrument to this support frame? Does any one have any photos.........I
can look at?..........Tom Sargent
]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34519#34519
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: panel installation - radio trays |
Check near the bottom of this page:
http://members.hopkinsville.net/bhester/FinishKitAssyPg2.htm
Please update your address book with my new email address:
bobbyhester(at)charter.net
Surfing the Web, Highspeed now, from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
sarg314 wrote:
>
>I am getting down to the little details on panel design and am wondering
>about clearance between instruments and my radio stack. The "stack" is
>only an SL-30 radio and a KT-76C transponder. I have the trasponder in
>hand, but not the radio yet. (I guess it's about time I rodered it.)
>
>I gather these are normally mounted in a some sort of framework that
>attaches to the panel but I've never seen one of these. How close can I
>realistically place an instrument to this support frame? Does any one
>have any photos on their web site that I can look at?
>
>
>Thanks,
>--
>Tom Sargent
>RV-6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Painter Feedback Sought |
I'd like to hear from anyone who has had a paint job done by Alan Woodson at
Brady Texas. I'm about to go down there to get my RV8A painted.
Dave Reel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: panel installation - radio trays |
Great photographs, guys. I think I get the idea. It looks like I'll
have to give the radios a 1/2 to 3/4 margine around the edge.
Thanks very much.
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JEllis9847(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: panel installation - radio trays |
Go to www.rvwiki.org and look at "Avionics Rack" to see how I mounted the
avionics in my 9-A. There are several pictures that might be helpful.
Jim Ellis
RV9-A, N155T
taxi testing, ready for first flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for reviews on the Lowrance AirMap 2000C |
Have you tried Lithium AA batteries
in the 2000C ? They might last quite a bit longer
in an emergancy power failure.
>The
> >only squawks
>are the batteries (4 aa) are For backup only
>as they only last
> >about
>an hour.
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
Quick question folks:
I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks close
by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that they
really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that I
want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could
probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC
machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in
my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Trying to get the wiring finished
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Painter Feedback Sought |
I had my plane done there and I am very satisfied. He has done
several others as a result of mine. Mine is the yellow and red RV6 that
is on his web-site and if you have any questions email me off list and I
will give you my phone number or email off list.
Dick Dial
N89DD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 9:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Painter Feedback Sought
I'd like to hear from anyone who has had a paint job done by Alan
Woodson at
Brady Texas. I'm about to go down there to get my RV8A painted.
Dave Reel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Handheld GPS batteries |
Find someone with >2300 mAh NiMH batteries to see how long
they last. You can get 2500 mAh AAs at Walmart now and with
a 15 minute charger (Energizer), you can recharge them quickly
and often
Ron Lee
> >The
> >only squawks
> >are the batteries (4 aa) are For backup only
> >as they only last
> >about
> >an hour.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Handheld GPS batteries |
In the current (June 2006) issue of Popular Science, pg. 22, they did a test
of batteries in a digital camera. Since the requirements are not the same as
for a GPS, these results may not translate well, but they are interesting.
Conventional alkaline batteries: 533 shots
Duracell Powerpix (Nickel Oxy Hydroxide): 920 shots
Panasonic Oxyride (Nickel Oxy Hydroxide): 990 shots
Energizer e2 Lithium: 3,107 shots
Although the lithium batteries cost twice as much, they were obviously the
best deal.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 11:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Handheld GPS batteries
Find someone with >2300 mAh NiMH batteries to see how long
they last. You can get 2500 mAh AAs at Walmart now and with
a 15 minute charger (Energizer), you can recharge them quickly
and often
Ron Lee
> >The
> >only squawks
> >are the batteries (4 aa) are For backup only
> >as they only last
> >about
> >an hour.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Reiche <charlieray(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: panel installation - radio trays |
As an avionics installer by trade, I would recommend placing like .060"
sheet between the trays when you design where the go, If you arent using a
avionics cooling fan like one from troll avionics.... I recommend leaving
that gap for some air flow.. you may think that a 1/8" gap between radios
is unsightly but they will last longer if they are allowed to breath,
especially in a non force-cooled installation. Position the trays with the
.060 sheet and then take it out when doing final assembly of your racks.
Never never never and never place forced cooling into a radio from something
like a NACA duct on the side of the airframe. I recently pulled a 210 apart
to install a Garmin GTX 330 and found that the 530 was being supplied
cooling air from outside the airplane via a ram air vent on the sidewall.
For S's and G's I took the cover off the 530 and looked inside, I found
pieces of grass and corrosion all over the thing that will lead to its early
demise. Cooling air has to be dry! And from inside the airplane.
Charlie
> Tom,
>
> Installing a radio stack is fairly straightforward. I used .032 aluminum
> angle stock to tie the trays together and to the back of the panel. The
> two photographs (of my Garmin 430 stack) should give you a fairly good
> idea of a typical installation whether for 2 trays or 5 trays....the idea
> is about the same.
> http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/3903/radiostack029bh.jpg
> http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/527/radiostack031zh.jpg
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 124 hours
>
>
> .......I gather these are normally mounted in a some sort of framework
> that attaches to the panel but I've never seen one of these. How close
> can I realistically place an instrument to this support frame? Does any
> one have any photos.........I can look at?..........Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed EI installation |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
>
> You need to rotate the prop (or flywheel) somewhat quickly to get it to
> fire. I suspect the issue you're seeing is that you're not moving it
> quickly enough. My experience with my Plasma II was that if you don't
> rotate the prop/flywheel quickly enough during the phase test, you won't see
> the coils firing.
>
> Otherwise, Klaus should be able to help you. Give him a call on the
> phone...contact info at the bottom of this page:
> http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/
>
> Where are you located? If you're anywhere near SoCal I could probably give
> you a hand.
Thanks for the offer Dan, except I am way out here in Minnesota. I think
you are right and affirmed by Alex that rotating the ring gear by hand won't
do it. I'll proceed and check everything as instructed and hopefully it
will fire up when finished.
Thanks
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JIM" <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inst panel hole cutting |
Dean,
An easy way to do it using "common tools" is to measure and make your own
template. Before you undertake several hours of measuring and layout you
might try contacting the technical or production department and ask them if
they have production drawings or 1:1 templates available. If not there are
several ways in which to transfer your demensions to your template. You can
either make the deminsions directly to a sheet of aluminum or draw it out on
vellum and trace it using carbon paper backing. Either way using a piece of
Al or very thin polycarbonate the same face size as your panel area will
allow you to position and size the unit along with allowing you to make all
your cuts and trial fit prior to actually cutting your panel. A good
adjustable protactor saves lots of time laying out the off angles used.
Just be sure you have the spacing in your sub. Oh BTW, a good machinist
don't need no stinking CNC! :)
Jim Duckett RV-7A N708JD
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 12:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting
>
>
> Quick question folks:
>
> I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
> monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks
> close
> by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that
> they
> really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that
> I
> want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That
> could
> probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
> problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
> outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
> making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
> from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
> VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
> only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it
> CNC
> machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
> looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
> the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
> suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
> Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it
> in
> my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Trying to get the wiring finished
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Handheld GPS batteries |
I would take this a step further and look at life cycle cost.
Assume Alkaline battery = $1 each (533 shots)
NiMH battery = $3.50 each (900 shots assumed)
e2 Lithium battery = $3.50 each 3107 shots)
Also assume only one battery is needed.
Cost per shot then is:
Alkaline = $1.00/533 = 0.187 cents/shot
e2 Lithium = $3.50/3107 = 0.113 cents/shot
Yes the Lithium is better than alkaline.
But wait, we have examined the NiMh which is at first glance
$3.50/900 = 0.389 cents/shot but since it can be recharged
hundreds of times (let's be conservative and only use 300) then
we are at 0.389/300 = 0.0013 cents/shot. Even adding in the
charger cost makes the NiMh much better.
Ron Lee
>In the current (June 2006) issue of Popular Science, pg. 22, they did a test
>of batteries in a digital camera. Since the requirements are not the same as
>for a GPS, these results may not translate well, but they are interesting.
>
>Conventional alkaline batteries: 533 shots
>Duracell Powerpix (Nickel Oxy Hydroxide): 920 shots
>Panasonic Oxyride (Nickel Oxy Hydroxide): 990 shots
>Energizer e2 Lithium: 3,107 shots
>
>Although the lithium batteries cost twice as much, they were obviously the
>best deal.
>
>Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Rotating the Tires |
I finished my condition inspection yesterday but deferred pulling the
wheels. A visual inspection indicated that the brakes are in good shape,
and the tires have plenty of tread left, but it soon will be time to
rotate the tires left to right again, and when I do that, I'll re-pack
the wheel bearings.
Anyway, the point is that whenever I do this, it seems to take forever.
You'd think it would be doable in a couple of hours, but for me it seems
to take a half day. Pulling the wheelpants, extracting the cotter pins
on the axle nuts, pulling loose the brake calipers, alternately jacking
up one side of the plane, then the other, removing a wheel and putting
the axle up on wood blocks. Then, it is time to let the air out of the
tubes, split the wheels, clean and pack the bearings, and reverse the
process. It takes forever... Which is why I deferred it yesterday. I
wanted to be done with the condition inspection, which turned out fine,
except for a broken Adel clamp on one of the exhaust hangars. Also, I
had my AI replace the mixture control thingie in the carburetor, because
it wasn't sealing well and it was getting difficult to stop the engine
with the mixture control.
Back to the reason for the post... Are there any masters of the tire
rotation task? If so, what are your suggestions, other than having
everything at hand when the time comes?
Suggestions appreciated.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
While I was doing my condition inspection, I did a little poking around
and discovered that it might *just* be possible to get a couple more
wires out into the right wing of N46KB to run the servo for a wing
leveler.
Which brings me back to the old issue of which of the two common wing
levelers is "best", which is a heck of a subjective issue.
I like the pseudo AH feature with the Tru-Track ADI, but then again, if
I got into a situation where I needed that feature, maybe it would be
best if I just turned on the wing leveler? On the other hand, the EZ
pilot seems to give the pilot more navigation information, but it
doesn't have provide any vertical navigation or the pseudo AH.
I guess the bottom line is that I'm leaning towards the EZ pilot, but
I'm easily swayed.
Thanks for any input.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inst panel hole cutting |
You should be able to do it like I did. I used a jig saw at first I
thought that idea was crazy, but it worked great! you cut it just a
little shy and file to the finish line. You can read about it on this page:
http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/FinishKitAssyPg3.html
Please update your address book with my new email address:
bobbyhester(at)charter.net
Surfing the Web, Highspeed now, from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
>Quick question folks:
>
>I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
>monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks close
>by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that they
>really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that I
>want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could
>probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
>problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
>outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
>making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
>from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
>VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
>only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC
>machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
>looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
>the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
>suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
>Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in
>my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Trying to get the wiring finished
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
What you want to do is find a friend that has AutoCAD and have him layout
your panel on the computer. Then send the autocad file to a laser cutter and
volla, instant perfect cutout panel.
Wayne at www.engravers.net can cut your panel for you from your autocad
file.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting
You should be able to do it like I did. I used a jig saw at first I
thought that idea was crazy, but it worked great! you cut it just a
little shy and file to the finish line. You can read about it on this page:
http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/FinishKitAssyPg3.html
Please update your address book with my new email address:
bobbyhester(at)charter.net
Surfing the Web, Highspeed now, from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
>Quick question folks:
>
>I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
>monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks close
>by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that
they
>really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that I
>want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could
>probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
>problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
>outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
>making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
>from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
>VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
>only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it
CNC
>machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
>looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
>the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
>suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
>Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in
>my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Trying to get the wiring finished
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inst panel hole cutting |
Jigsaw, files, hacksaw, drill -- worked fine for all of us "old-timers" who
built before laser cutters were in vogue. Its a bit of work but I doubt it'd
take less time than drawing on CAD.
Randall Henderson
> DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Quick question folks:
> >
> >I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
> >monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks
close
> >by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that
> they
> >really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that
I
> >want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That
could
> >probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
> >problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
> >outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
> >making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg
angle
> >from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
> >VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced
the
> >only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it
> CNC
> >machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
> >looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking
at
> >the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
> >suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of
the
> >Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it
in
> >my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
> >
> >Dean Psiropoulos
> >RV-6A N197DM
> >Trying to get the wiring finished
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotating the Tires |
Rotated mine today. It took about an hour and a half. Once you get the
system down it goes more quickly. Here are my "tips":
1. I use 3/8" long screws on the wheel pants instead of the 1/2" screws
called out on the plans. Shorter screws means fewer threads...means the
screws are in/out faster. Also saves a tiny bit of weight (whatever).
2. I use a 7/16" "ratcheting dogbone" wrench on the bolts that attach the
outsides of the wheel pants to the axle nut. This makes very quick work of
getting those bolts out and back in. You might be able to get a small
socket wrench on there, but I find the ratcheting dogbone is exactly what
the doctor ordered.
3. Remove the valve stem completely when working with tubes. When you said
"let the air out" in your email below, I wasn't sure how you were doing
that...so if you're not removing the valve stem, do that. Air is let out
very quickly (pretty much instantely...no need to hold the valve) and the
tubes are much easier to work with when scrunching 'em up to fit into the
tires.
4. This is general advice rather than a trick...DO NOT HANDLE A FULLY
INFLATED TIRE/WHEEL that is not held captive by the axle nut. While it's
extraordinarily unlikely, it HAS happened -- the wheel can "explode" by
virtue of the halves separating, becoming projectiles. I *ALWAYS* remove
the valve stem completely before loosening the axle nut. I re-inflate the
tires only after the wheel is on the axle with the axle nut ON. In your
email below it sounded like you removed the wheel from the axle and then let
the air out. Ask around among A&Ps or shops and you'll hear some real
horror stories. I met one guy personally who suffered a head injury when a
wheel separated.
Hope this helps...
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (904 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 6:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rotating the Tires
>
>
> I finished my condition inspection yesterday but deferred pulling the
> wheels. A visual inspection indicated that the brakes are in good shape,
> and the tires have plenty of tread left, but it soon will be time to
> rotate the tires left to right again, and when I do that, I'll re-pack
> the wheel bearings.
>
> Anyway, the point is that whenever I do this, it seems to take forever.
> You'd think it would be doable in a couple of hours, but for me it seems
> to take a half day. Pulling the wheelpants, extracting the cotter pins
> on the axle nuts, pulling loose the brake calipers, alternately jacking
> up one side of the plane, then the other, removing a wheel and putting
> the axle up on wood blocks. Then, it is time to let the air out of the
> tubes, split the wheels, clean and pack the bearings, and reverse the
> process. It takes forever... Which is why I deferred it yesterday. I
> wanted to be done with the condition inspection, which turned out fine,
> except for a broken Adel clamp on one of the exhaust hangars. Also, I
> had my AI replace the mixture control thingie in the carburetor, because
> it wasn't sealing well and it was getting difficult to stop the engine
> with the mixture control.
>
> Back to the reason for the post... Are there any masters of the tire
> rotation task? If so, what are your suggestions, other than having
> everything at hand when the time comes?
>
> Suggestions appreciated.
>
> KB
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
It took me a couple of weeks with autocad and my learning curve to layout my
very complex panel in my Glasair III. I can now do your average panel in
about an hour. When you throw in all the 3/4 ATI square, 45 degree corners,
VM 1000's and the other strange shaped stuff, it might take me 2 hours. When
I'm done, every thing fits, all the mounting holes line up. You might be
able to do it with a file, but you sure can tell when you look at the
finished product. If you're going to make layout mistakes, it's much easier
to fix the error on a computer screen than a sheet of aluminum.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of randall
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting
Jigsaw, files, hacksaw, drill -- worked fine for all of us "old-timers" who
built before laser cutters were in vogue. Its a bit of work but I doubt it'd
take less time than drawing on CAD.
Randall Henderson
> DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Quick question folks:
> >
> >I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
> >monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks
close
> >by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that
> they
> >really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that
I
> >want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That
could
> >probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
> >problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
> >outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
> >making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg
angle
> >from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
> >VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced
the
> >only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it
> CNC
> >machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
> >looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking
at
> >the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
> >suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of
the
> >Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it
in
> >my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
> >
> >Dean Psiropoulos
> >RV-6A N197DM
> >Trying to get the wiring finished
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed EI installation |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Doug.
Recommend you read this thread for gapping the direct crank pickup .
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t7688
Best,
Mike
Fellow Listers:
I am into a major project installing a dual Lightspeed Ignition system
in my
flying RV-4. It will be using the direct crank sensor installation.
This
project is just about done and I am beginning to do some preliminary
tests
are stated in the LSI manual. I have run a magnetic across the sensors
on
both systems on the direct crank sensor circuit board and the coils fire
fine across their terminals.
Here is my question. I have carefully measured the calculated clearance
between the sensors on the circuit board and the small magnets which are
installed in the ring gear (I had LSI install them so I assume they are
in
the correct position). I have been trying to see if I can get the
coils to
fire my temporarily positioning the starter ring gear and moving the
engine
through TDC. No luck in getting them to fire. Now I don't know if this
is
a valid test. I assume I am moving the ring gear fast enough through
the
sensor positions but it is hard to say.
For any of you that have installed the LSI system with the direct crank
sensor, did you have any issues like this?. Or did you put it together
and
it just ran??
Doug Weiler
N722DW, 290 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Idle mixture screw on MA-4-5 |
Mark,
When you turn the idle mixture screw counter clockwise, you are turning it
out. Be sure you do not turn it so far that there is no longer tension on
the spring. A friend did this trying to get that RPM increase on shut down
and had the engine quit on final because the idle mixture screw fill out
during a flight. Probably came out because of engine vibration during the
flight.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotating the Tires |
Sounds like what I do exactly, and it takes 4 hrs to do it right. I suppose
you could work faster, but likely make mistakes and add to future woes.
It's a pain. The last occasion for me I saved time by installing new tires
at the change instead of switching as tires were worn on the outside a bit
more than usual. Saving time = spending more. Relax and enjoy it.
Dick
At 09:20 PM 5/14/2006, you wrote:
>
>
>I finished my condition inspection yesterday but deferred pulling the
>wheels. A visual inspection indicated that the brakes are in good shape,
>and the tires have plenty of tread left, but it soon will be time to
>rotate the tires left to right again, and when I do that, I'll re-pack
>the wheel bearings.
>
>Anyway, the point is that whenever I do this, it seems to take forever.
>You'd think it would be doable in a couple of hours, but for me it seems
>to take a half day. Pulling the wheelpants, extracting the cotter pins
>on the axle nuts, pulling loose the brake calipers, alternately jacking
>up one side of the plane, then the other, removing a wheel and putting
>the axle up on wood blocks. Then, it is time to let the air out of the
>tubes, split the wheels, clean and pack the bearings, and reverse the
>process. It takes forever... Which is why I deferred it yesterday. I
>wanted to be done with the condition inspection, which turned out fine,
>except for a broken Adel clamp on one of the exhaust hangars. Also, I
>had my AI replace the mixture control thingie in the carburetor, because
>it wasn't sealing well and it was getting difficult to stop the engine
>with the mixture control.
>
>Back to the reason for the post... Are there any masters of the tire
>rotation task? If so, what are your suggestions, other than having
>everything at hand when the time comes?
>
>Suggestions appreciated.
>
>KB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rotary engine firewall package for 6, 7, or 9 for sale |
| From: | WALTER B KERR <jbker(at)juno.com> |
Sorry about the commercial, but believe this is the best spot to get a
plug in for my engine package!
Have decided to part my 9A out and build a LSA since medicals or getting
tougher as 70 is upon me.
Will sell the rotary and install a lycoming in the 9A before selling it.
Do not wish to have the double jeopardy of an alternative engine and
homebuilt combination if I sell it with the rotary.
The engine installation has had minimum problems once I got past a faulty
DPDT switch that was apparently backfeeding 12 volts to electronic
control and burning the chip which operates off of 5 volts. Flew the 40
hours off in minimum time and have about 10 hours on it since.
Fuel burn is not bad if leaned which the flight report in Sport Aviation
alludes to. That controller does not allow for leaning.
I have over $12K invested and will sell it for $8K. The gear reduction
and electronic controller are built by Tracy Crook at RWS inc, the engine
is a street ported 13B built by Bruce Turrentine, the engine mount is by
Fred Breese, and the prop is a Sensenich. You get the nose gear leg, dual
electronic fuel pumps, intake and exhaust manifolds, muffler, radiator
(Griffen custom aluminum), oil cooler, and many more items.
I have not pulled the engine yet, so you can come to Ft Pierce Fl and see
and hear it run until I start the conversion to the lycoming.
Bernie Kerr, 6A 450 hours and sold, 9A rotary with 50 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
I don't remember if this has been announced but the OSH 2006 Notam is now
available.
http://www.airventure.org/2006/flying/notam06.pdf
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | AD compliance documentation questions |
Folks,
I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a Lycoming SB leading
to an AD for this line.
After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance? I'm guessing
that it should go in my engine Log-Book.
Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the builder -
but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying yet. Is there
a specific text for the compliance?
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward
Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's an understatement!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
HI Dean-
RE: ...and needless to say, I'm convinced the
only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC
machined....
I have to agree here with the majority of the responses you've gotten so
far. It's really not a big deal to do the panel well. There should be
dimensional data for mounting your avionics available in your literature,
or at least on a web site. Lay it out right on your panel blank, use
common drills, unibits, and a saber saw with a metal cutting blade as
necessary. File carefully to a nice fit. Test fit your avionics as you
go. You will surprise yourself with how nice a job you can do.
Virtually all the metal working skills I have I learned building this
plane. All my avionics are face mounted, with only one bezel involved.
The results are pretty gratifying.
FWIW-
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
I've read with interest this string and thought I'd add my two cents
worth.
I found making the panel one of the more rewarding parts of the project
and did it with a few basic tools. At first I called a few local shops
with CNC machines and was shocked at the price just to do the hole for
my VM-1000. I decided to get creative with the metal template provided
with the VM-1000 and my trusty Craftsman router. First I mounted the
template and blank panel on a piece of 3/4" MDF. Then using a straight
cutting bit with a roller guide, made a very nice opening for the
VM-1000 indicator.
After laying out the panel full scale on 1/4" graph paper I did the
remaining holes with an instrument hole cutting punch.
http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?numberIHC318 Sure it cost
150 bucks but it's the right tool for the job, does both 3 1/8 and 2 1/4
holes. The only other tool needed was a mounting hole jig, 14 bucks.
http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?numberIHT250I (I'm a
self admitted tool junkie so needing a couple of tools along the way is
an excuse to buy one.) BTW I'm not partial to Cleaveland, Avery and
others have them as well.
A little file work to open holes for things like the Kollsman knob and
VS adjustment screw and that was it.
I've got pictures if anybody wants to see them off list.
Again, just my two cents worth but it worked for me.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles MO
RV-8, 45 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | AD compliance documentation questions |
Ralph,
If the plane isn't flying yet then nothing needs to be done. If the plane
is flying then a logbook entry would be in line. Because its experimental
you don't need any type of certificate. Simply enter that date, and brief
description of what you did, then sign it off and print your name.
AS you asked I will volunteer a brief description: " Complied with AD
??-??-?? by installing stainless steel oil line." Thats all that needed.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: lycomingengines-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
>rv6-list(at)matronics.com, RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions
>Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 10:11:34 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
>
>
>Folks,
>
>I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a Lycoming
>SB leading to an AD for this line.
>
>After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance?
>I'm guessing that it should go in my engine Log-Book.
>
>Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the
>builder - but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying
>yet. Is there a specific text for the compliance?
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward
>
>Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's
>an understatement!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
I managed to make decent looking square holes using an
ordinary power jig saw with a mettle cutting blade.
Drill holes at the corners,then use the jig saw to cut
close to finished size.Then finish with a flat file.
You can do the corners with a small file.
> I have a Dynon D-10 that I
>want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could
>probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
>problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
>outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
>making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
>from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
>VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
>only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC
>machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
>looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
>the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
>suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
>Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in
>my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
HI All-
I have an update on my glued canopy saga. Life has conspired to keep me
from working on my project, but the canopy is now glued on, cut, filleted,
and the edges are dressed. Along the way I came up with a few data points
I'd like to share. First though I'd like to thank those who've gone
before, especially Billy and Mickey. Thanks guys!
WRT the chemicals used, the cleaner does have a primer element to it. It
is very easy to use and the minimum purchase quantity is several times what
you will need. The primer itself is about double or more of what you need.
The primer forms a very smooth surface for the adhesive to bond to. This
is a fundamental requirement of the process. Somewhere out there in
cyberworld is a recommendation to scuff the primer if you can't get the
adhesive in place right away. This would be a large mistake, as would
adding another coat of primer. Per the manufacturer, the adhesive is to be
applied to the primer within 2 hours. Between 2 hours and about 3 days,
you can simply wash the primer with the cleaner, and it will re-soften it
adequately to apply the adhesive. Scuffing the primer will cause a
significantly weaker bond, as the adhesive won't flow into the 'tooth'. If
you were to scuff the primer, you should remove ALL the affected area and
start the process over with the cleaner. Adding a second coat of primer
would make an unacceptably thick, and therefore structurally weak, layer.
When applying the adhesive, I used perhaps 2 dozen latex gloves. This
helped me to keep the project (and myself!) pretty clean. My wife and I
had no trouble doing the installation by ourselves. It's really pretty
darn slick, and I just can't imagine drilling and using fasteners.
I used Billy's idea of scoring the primer from the inside with a screw to
locate the big cut, then re-marked it with masking tape on the outside. A
die grinder and cutting disc made pretty quick and easy work of the cut. I
did underestimate what the final kerf was going to be, but the gasket will
take care of that just fine.
Once the canopy was cut and removed from the plane, I prepped and finish
glued it. This involved back filling the areas where the spacers had been
and creating aesthetically pleasing fillets. In most places this is easily
done with a gloved finger. For the windscreen base, I used a four inch
diameter ceramic candy dish as a squeegee. It worked extremely well, was
very convenient to grip, and cleaned up easily.
The glue actually had to sit for 2 days before I was comfortable handling
it. After 2 weeks, it is a whole lot tougher.
To dress the 'big cut', I used 100 and then 220 grit self adhesive
sandpaper on both sides of a 1/2 x 1-1/2 x 6" sanding block. I closed the
canopy on the block and then sanded both sides of the cut at the same time.
This ensured that the two cut edges stayed parallel as I cleaned them up.
I final finished them with scotchbrite, and am quite pleased with the
results.
The way I did my installation, two tubes of adhesive was just about enough
to do the canopy, but not the skirt. That will require part of a third
tube. How to seal the leading edge of the skirt will take a little
thought, but shouldn't be too arduous.
As ever, FWIW!
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
Of the 11 holes in my panel, only 6 are round. The rest are 3 inch ATI,
(that's 3 inch square with 45 degree clipped corners), 1/3 ATI, rectulangar
(AOA), and my VM1000. Now you might be able to do a passing job by hand on
the big holes, but the real clincher is locating the instrument mounting
holes. If you're mounting with pan head screws you have some fudge factor to
oversize the hole if you're off a little bit. But all my instrument mounting
screws are countersunk. Which means I had to be dead nuts on. My Glasair III
has 5 metal sub panels that mount to a fiberglass frame. My cost to CNC all
the panels and holes was under $300 total. The cutter worked from my autocad
drawing, which I supplied.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Struyk
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 10:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting
I've read with interest this string and thought I'd add my two cents
worth.
I found making the panel one of the more rewarding parts of the project
and did it with a few basic tools. At first I called a few local shops
with CNC machines and was shocked at the price just to do the hole for
my VM-1000. I decided to get creative with the metal template provided
with the VM-1000 and my trusty Craftsman router. First I mounted the
template and blank panel on a piece of 3/4" MDF. Then using a straight
cutting bit with a roller guide, made a very nice opening for the
VM-1000 indicator.
After laying out the panel full scale on 1/4" graph paper I did the
remaining holes with an instrument hole cutting punch.
http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?numberIHC318 Sure it cost
150 bucks but it's the right tool for the job, does both 3 1/8 and 2 1/4
holes. The only other tool needed was a mounting hole jig, 14 bucks.
http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?numberIHT250I (I'm a
self admitted tool junkie so needing a couple of tools along the way is
an excuse to buy one.) BTW I'm not partial to Cleaveland, Avery and
others have them as well.
A little file work to open holes for things like the Kollsman knob and
VS adjustment screw and that was it.
I've got pictures if anybody wants to see them off list.
Again, just my two cents worth but it worked for me.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles MO
RV-8, 45 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | AD compliance documentation questions |
Mike,
Because we're not subject to AD's don't you think he should state he
complied with the SB rather than the AD?
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 10:54 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions
Ralph,
If the plane isn't flying yet then nothing needs to be done. If the plane
is flying then a logbook entry would be in line. Because its experimental
you don't need any type of certificate. Simply enter that date, and brief
description of what you did, then sign it off and print your name.
AS you asked I will volunteer a brief description: " Complied with AD
??-??-?? by installing stainless steel oil line." Thats all that needed.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: lycomingengines-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
>rv6-list(at)matronics.com, RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions
>Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 10:11:34 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
>
>
>Folks,
>
>I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a Lycoming
>SB leading to an AD for this line.
>
>After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance?
>I'm guessing that it should go in my engine Log-Book.
>
>Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the
>builder - but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying
>yet. Is there a specific text for the compliance?
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward
>
>Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's
>an understatement!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Instrument screws/nuts |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Folks,
I'm assuming that brass screws are what to use anywhere on the
panel (although all my instruments are "electronic" apart from
2 steam gauges - altimeter and ASI).
I see various brass screws in Spruce's catalog - but no brass
nuts and washers - do folks generally go with the cad plated
steel locknuts (AN365) ? Or is there a source of brass nuts
and washers ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inst panel hole cutting |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
That's the way I went - one tip - put masking tape 2 layers
thick anywhere the base plate of your jigsaw is going to
contact the panel - mine got scratched up a bit as the saw
travelled across the surface.
g
>
>
>
>
> I managed to make decent looking square holes using an
> ordinary power jig saw with a mettle cutting blade.
> Drill holes at the corners,then use the jig saw to cut
> close to finished size.Then finish with a flat file.
> You can do the corners with a small file.
>
>
>
> > I have a Dynon D-10 that I
> >want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could
> >probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
> >problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
> >outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
> >making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
> >from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
> >VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
> >only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC
> >machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
> >looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
> >the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
> >suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
> >Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in
> >my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
> >
> >Dean Psiropoulos
> >RV-6A N197DM
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: glued canopy |
On 8:15:42 2006-05-15 "Glen Matejcek" wrote:
> I have an update on my glued canopy saga. Life has conspired to keep
> me from working on my project, but the canopy is now glued on, cut,
> filleted, and the edges are dressed. Along the way I came up with a
> few data points I'd like to share. First though I'd like to thank
> those who've gone before, especially Billy and Mickey. Thanks guys!
Glen, i've added your post to the Gluing Your Canopy page on the Matronics
RV Wiki. You can find it here:
<http://wiki.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Gluing_Your_Canopy>
Feel free to edit if you'd like to add more info.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument screws/nuts |
On May 15, 2006, at 10:28 AM, Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm assuming that brass screws are what to use anywhere on the
> panel (although all my instruments are "electronic" apart from
> 2 steam gauges - altimeter and ASI).
>
> I see various brass screws in Spruce's catalog - but no brass
> nuts and washers - do folks generally go with the cad plated
> steel locknuts (AN365) ? Or is there a source of brass nuts
> and washers ?
>
Gerry-
The only reason to use the brass hardware is to avoid interference
with your compass. If you don't have a compass on your panel, don't
worry about it.
Stainless nuts and washers are widely available and mostly (but not
completely) non-magnetic. These are usually good enough for "gubmint"
work.
For items that won't be removed frequently, don't overlook soft
aluminum pop rivets. They are quick and cheap to install, and can be
drilled out more quickly than you can remove a typical threaded
fastener. I used them to mount my magnetometer rather than fool
around trying to find appropriate brass or nylon hardware.
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument screws/nuts |
Grasshoppers or threaded instruments
Denis Walsh
On May 15, 2006, at 9:28 AM, Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm assuming that brass screws are what to use anywhere on the
> panel (although all my instruments are "electronic" apart from
> 2 steam gauges - altimeter and ASI).
>
> I see various brass screws in Spruce's catalog - but no brass
> nuts and washers - do folks generally go with the cad plated
> steel locknuts (AN365) ? Or is there a source of brass nuts
> and washers ?
>
> __g__
>
> =========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rainey, Steven A CIV" <steven.rainey(at)navy.mil> |
Jim, can I get some info on this RV-4?? Where is it located, etc?? contact email
from the seller , etc?? thanks......... Steven at Steven.rainey(at)navy.mil
...........
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Cimino
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 13:51
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 for Sale
I am listing this for a friend of mine who has an RV-4 for sale. It has
an O-320-D1A with 310 TTAE bought new from Van's. It is VFR and is in
great shape. This is a very nice RV-4 that was built by a close friend
of mine who is a retired sheet metal fabricator. This was the 3rd RV
that he built and the workmanship is flawless. It is yellow and red.
My friend is asking $45,000 for it. If you are interested or have any
other questions you can contact Richard at rblakesl(at)ptd.net . Or I will
try to answer any questions I can for you.
Thanks,
Jim
Jim Cimino
N7TL
RV-8 S/N 80039
200+ Hours
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
Or maybe work from the back of the panel. But if you do, don't cut the notch
for the altimeter setting on the wrong corner. I hear someone did that.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting
That's the way I went - one tip - put masking tape 2 layers
thick anywhere the base plate of your jigsaw is going to
contact the panel - mine got scratched up a bit as the saw
travelled across the surface.
g
>
>
>
>
> I managed to make decent looking square holes using an
> ordinary power jig saw with a mettle cutting blade.
> Drill holes at the corners,then use the jig saw to cut
> close to finished size.Then finish with a flat file.
> You can do the corners with a small file.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotating the Tires |
Kyle,
I think rotating the tires is a lot of work for minimal returns. I decided
some time ago to get the best tires out there and leave them in place. I
found that the Goodyear Flight Custom II wear like iron. I have not rotated
them and they seem to wear fairly evenly...I use 30PSI....I can't recall
when I replaced them, must have been several years ago and many, many,
landings, and they still have deep even threads.
FWIW John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 7:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rotating the Tires
>
>
> I finished my condition inspection yesterday but deferred pulling the
> wheels. A visual inspection indicated that the brakes are in good shape,
> and the tires have plenty of tread left, but it soon will be time to
> rotate the tires left to right again, and when I do that, I'll re-pack
> the wheel bearings.
>
> Anyway, the point is that whenever I do this, it seems to take forever.
> You'd think it would be doable in a couple of hours, but for me it seems
> to take a half day. Pulling the wheelpants, extracting the cotter pins
> on the axle nuts, pulling loose the brake calipers, alternately jacking
> up one side of the plane, then the other, removing a wheel and putting
> the axle up on wood blocks. Then, it is time to let the air out of the
> tubes, split the wheels, clean and pack the bearings, and reverse the
> process. It takes forever... Which is why I deferred it yesterday. I
> wanted to be done with the condition inspection, which turned out fine,
> except for a broken Adel clamp on one of the exhaust hangars. Also, I
> had my AI replace the mixture control thingie in the carburetor, because
> it wasn't sealing well and it was getting difficult to stop the engine
> with the mixture control.
>
> Back to the reason for the post... Are there any masters of the tire
> rotation task? If so, what are your suggestions, other than having
> everything at hand when the time comes?
>
> Suggestions appreciated.
>
> KB
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Inst panel hole cutting |
Dean,
I have successfully used a router table to cut very clean and straight lines
on my panel. First, I cut with a hole saw, jig saw, or other means to get
close to the edge. Then with a small, .125" cutter in the router, and a fence
made from a piece of .063 alum angle one can progressively take small cuts out
to the edge you want. If you need smaller than .125 radius at the corners,
you can predrill those before routing. This method results in a finish
comparable to professional machining if you are careful, and it is relatively
fast
compared to filing, etc... You will need to devise a method to keep the fence
solidly in place while routing but easy to move. With mine, I simply use
clamps.
You will need a variable speed control. Harbor Freight. Cheap.
It is important to practice on a similar piece and learn the technique
first.
Did I mention this is inexpensive? Provide you already have router access,
of course.
Disclaimer and warning: Routers can be dangerous cutting aluminum, so take
small cuts, say .003, push work against cutter rotation, not with, or there
could be an ugly surprise. Wear eye protection and leather gloves. FWIW,
YMMV, etc.
Hope this helps
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
In a message dated 5/15/2006 12:04:44 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject:
Quick question folks:
I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks close
by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that they
really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that I
want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could
probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC
machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in
my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Trying to get the wiring finished
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inst panel hole cutting |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
dean.psiropoulos(at)veriz wrote:
> ......... The biggest
> problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display...... Those
of you who have VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm
convinced the only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to
have it CNC machined.
Dean,
I did not find the VM-1000 hole to be particularily difficult to fashion at all.
As my usual practice in approaching such things, I rough cut the hole open
as large as possible with a fiber cutoff wheel...the same one used to separate
the canopy bubble...then using various high speed rotary files in a standard
die grinder and a combination of smaller files and stones in a pencil grinder,
I think the VM-1000 opening came out just fine.
http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/7321/00001139tx.jpg
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34741#34741
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wesley T Robinson" <wesleyt(at)stanfordfurniture.com> |
| Subject: | EAA Chapter 731 Fly-in at Morganton-Lenoir, NC, May 20th |
Listers, EAA Chapter 731 is holding their Spring Fly-in at Morganton-Lenoir,
NC (KMRN) on May 20th.
Join us for food, fun, and flying!
Should be a great day with quite a few aircraft attending.
An award will be given to the best RV and to aircraft in other categories.
Check the club website for full details. www.eaa731.org
Wesley T Robinson
WR Consulting
EAA 731 Web/Newsletter Editor
RV-9A N224WR 150Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | AD compliance documentation questions |
You're choice, but as the AD calls out the SB I feel it would be better to
call out the AD. That way if any question should come up down the line you
are able to point right to the entry instead of having to explain that the
SB is called out in the AD and therefore the same.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions
>Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 11:19:15 -0400
>
>
>Mike,
>
>Because we're not subject to AD's don't you think he should state he
>complied with the SB rather than the AD?
>
>Bruce
>www.glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
>Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 10:54 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions
>
>
>Ralph,
>
>If the plane isn't flying yet then nothing needs to be done. If the plane
>is flying then a logbook entry would be in line. Because its experimental
>you don't need any type of certificate. Simply enter that date, and brief
>description of what you did, then sign it off and print your name.
>
>AS you asked I will volunteer a brief description: " Complied with AD
>??-??-?? by installing stainless steel oil line." Thats all that needed.
>
>Mike Robertson
>Das Fed
>
>
> >From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: lycomingengines-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
> >rv6-list(at)matronics.com, RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions
> >Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 10:11:34 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
> >
> >
> >Folks,
> >
> >I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a
>Lycoming
> >SB leading to an AD for this line.
> >
> >After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance?
> >I'm guessing that it should go in my engine Log-Book.
> >
> >Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the
> >builder - but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying
> >yet. Is there a specific text for the compliance?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Ralph Capen
> >RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward
> >
> >Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's
> >an understatement!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
There are several out there.
ECI makes a metal one that I saw at Oshkosh and it was several pounds ligher
than the one Lycoming sells.
This is ECI's experimental one:
http://www.eci2fly.com/exp/cis_flyer.pdf
http://www.eci2fly.com/exp/cis_tds.pdf
http://www.superflite.com/products.asp?p=115&SID=17&SN=Front%20Servo%20Sump
I thought that Raven Aircraft also had a 4 cylinder parallel valve version
but cannot find it anymore. Only the 540 version.
http://www.ravenaircraft.com/raven_012.htm
http://www.skydynamics.com/maxisump.html
http://users.adelphia.net/~aeroengine/Barrett.html
http://www.attawayair.com/eci_fi_system.htm
http://www.performanceengines.com/images/LineCard.pdf
I remember seeing a link to another one out there but cannot find it now.
Lets put this one in the archives for next time when we go looking for cold
air sumps.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,852 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)ashcreekwireless.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ryton sumps
Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 06:38:12 -0700
Yesterday, I joined the ranks of people who have broken their ryton
sumps during startup. 3 out of 4 ryton sumps on the field have now
broken at least once. I am not comfortable with that record, so am now
looking at alternatives for replacement.
Does anyone have feedback on what options are out there for a forward
facing sump?
Bob Brown
RV7A
last few things...oh, and a NEW INDUCTION SYSTEM!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument screws/nuts |
I just used some really cool stainless hex head screws
from home depot. Works great. I think the brass
screw thing is an old wives tale, personally...that is
unless you are using them screw in a compass.
Paul Besing
--- James Freeman wrote:
>
>
>
> On May 15, 2006, at 10:28 AM, Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> > Folks,
> >
> > I'm assuming that brass screws are what to use
> anywhere on the
> > panel (although all my instruments are
> "electronic" apart from
> > 2 steam gauges - altimeter and ASI).
> >
> > I see various brass screws in Spruce's catalog -
> but no brass
> > nuts and washers - do folks generally go with the
> cad plated
> > steel locknuts (AN365) ? Or is there a source of
> brass nuts
> > and washers ?
> >
>
> Gerry-
>
> The only reason to use the brass hardware is to
> avoid interference
> with your compass. If you don't have a compass on
> your panel, don't
> worry about it.
>
> Stainless nuts and washers are widely available and
> mostly (but not
> completely) non-magnetic. These are usually good
> enough for "gubmint"
> work.
>
> For items that won't be removed frequently, don't
> overlook soft
> aluminum pop rivets. They are quick and cheap to
> install, and can be
> drilled out more quickly than you can remove a
> typical threaded
> fastener. I used them to mount my magnetometer
> rather than fool
> around trying to find appropriate brass or nylon
> hardware.
>
> James Freeman
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
We also had a broken sump on the Superior XP-360. I don't even know if it is
a Ryton. It has been replaced but I am very leery of it now. Seems we were
running a bit lean at low power.
It back fired on start up. Our servo was a repaired unit so we got a new one
but not sure it is any different. Please give me some input if u are running
the same engine.
1. What is the fuel flow at take off power....we show 16.3 GPH.
2. What are the EGT's at some altitude at full rich.
3. What are the EGT's at that altitude after leaning on the rich side
Appreciate any and all info on this engine. We are not confident that things
are as they should be and concerned with causing damage.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
RV-7A N196VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD compliance documentation questions |
| From: | "N395V" <n395v(at)hughes.net> |
> That's kinda like saying there's no harm in letting the cops do a
> warrant-less search of your car for drugs if you don't use drugs
Actually I liken more to painting my house in a traditional color as opposed to
pink and purple to enhance curb appeal and resale value.
Were I purchasing an RV 8 or a Rocket I would like to know if the fuel pump AD
had been done or if any of the Crank SBs applied. Logbook notations to that effect
would help.
If the FAA checks your logbooks on a ramp check it's cuz you #1 had them with you
and #2 told them to look at them. Don't want them looked at don't carry them
in the plane.
Now as for the Gumn't keeping records on our phone calls, yep we failed to connect
the dots. Theyr'e probably also reading the e mail lists which those 9 black
robed distinguished idiots would probably also say is ok.
--------
Milt
N395V
F1 Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34835#34835
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD compliance documentation questions |
| From: | "Jekyll" <rcitjh(at)aol.com> |
ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne wrote:
> N395V wrote:
>
> That's kinda like saying there's no harm in letting the cops do a
> warrant-less search of your car for drugs if you don't use drugs. Or
> letting the Gummint have a record of all your phone calls & emails if
> you aren't a terrorist.
>
>
Oh, please! Missed the point. It is about taking the extra (and easy) step now
to avoid future arguements that may crop up in pre-sale negotiations or post-accident
legal or insurance coverage hassels. This is an "ounce of prevention"
being better than a "pound of cure".
Jekyll
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34866#34866
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
Guys,
Please post your messages concerning these sumps also on
_http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/_ (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/) . I am
sure the guys at Superior check that one so important they know what the
sentiment is out here. Last time I talked to them about these failures, they
assured me "It's never happened in flight." Cold comfort. They also said they're
working on a replacement, but not free to present owners unless you "have a
problem". These folks need to step up, communicate with their customers, and
schedule free replacements when available. Mine is still in the garage, but
90/90, so I hope they get off their duff. My .10.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
In a message dated 5/16/2006 12:06:17 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
From: DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ryton sumps
We also had a broken sump on the Superior XP-360. I don't even know if it
is
a Ryton. It has been replaced but I am very leery of it now. Seems we were
running a bit lean at low power.
It back fired on start up. Our servo was a repaired unit so we got a new
one
but not sure it is any different. Please give me some input if u are running
the same engine.
1. What is the fuel flow at take off power....we show 16.3 GPH.
2. What are the EGT's at some altitude at full rich.
3. What are the EGT's at that altitude after leaning on the rich side
Appreciate any and all info on this engine. We are not confident that
things
are as they should be and concerned with causing damage.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
RV-7A N196VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
Bob and Doug,
Superior has told me these incidents have only happened with electronic
ignitions. Is that what you guys have? Something about the "wasted spark"... Even
though I have mags, still makes me nervous as hell...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
In a message dated 5/16/2006 12:06:17 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)ashcreekwireless.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ryton sumps
Yesterday, I joined the ranks of people who have broken their ryton
sumps during startup. 3 out of 4 ryton sumps on the field have now
broken at least once. I am not comfortable with that record, so am now
looking at alternatives for replacement.
Does anyone have feedback on what options are out there for a forward
facing sump?
Bob Brown
RV7A
last few things...oh, and a NEW INDUCTION SYSTEM!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD compliance documentation questions |
| From: | "Jekyll" <rcitjh(at)aol.com> |
Milt:
Quite right. My quoting ability was a mouse click or two from my desired results.
Quotes inside quotes... something along the lines of riddles inside inigmas.
My appologies.
Jekyll
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34872#34872
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Linebaugh" <jefflinebaugh(at)earthlink.net> |
-------Original Message-------
From: Jeff Linebaugh
Date: 05/16/06 15:25:37
rv-list(at)matonics.com; v8-list(at)matronics.com; rv4-list(at)matronics.com;
RVSouthEast-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: F1 Rocket Panel For Sale
I have a new (never flown) F1 Rocket Panel for sale. The panel is comple
te
with all components installed, and pre-wired avionics harnesses. Please
e-mail me for more photos/details if interested.
Thanks
Jeff
Jeff Linebaugh
jeff@rocket-boys.com
F1 Rocket N240KT soon coming to...
Memphis, TN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
I don't believe this. How much ignitable fuel/air mixture can be there?
Plus the exhaust valve is likely open.
And it does not explain Doug's case were he has two mags.
Ron Lee
>What happens in the wasted spark ignition is that
>there are two sparks to a complete cycle. The first
>is at the top of the compression stroke. The second
>is at the top of the exhaust stroke and the opening of
>the intake valve. If the spark hits the fuel/air
>mixture at this point, a back fire occurs towards the
>carb or throttlebody and the ryton sump cannot contain
>the explosive condition, therefore, it disintegrates.
>
>Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | use tax in arizona |
Has any one registered their homebuilt in Arizona in the last 6 mo. or
12 months? I'd be interested in hearing your experience with the use
tax and the AZ Dept. of Revenue. Apparently their response is not very
consistent from one case to the next.
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AD compliance documentation questions |
Jekyll wrote:
>
>
>ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne wrote:
>
>
>>N395V wrote:
>>
>>That's kinda like saying there's no harm in letting the cops do a
>>warrant-less search of your car for drugs if you don't use drugs. Or
>>letting the Gummint have a record of all your phone calls & emails if
>>you aren't a terrorist.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Oh, please! Missed the point. It is about taking the extra (and easy) step now
to avoid future arguements that may crop up in pre-sale negotiations or post-accident
legal or insurance coverage hassels. This is an "ounce of prevention"
being better than a "pound of cure".
>
>Jekyll
>
The point is that AD's carry legal obligation. I believe that Das Fed
will tell you that an AD has never been issued on a homebuilt. Yet.
Remember the uproar just a few weeks ago over Van issuing a 'mandatory'
service bulletin? Do you really want something like that issued by the
Feds with the force of law?
I'm not questioning the wisdom of carrying out some particular
safety-related SB. I'm just saying that I don't want the Gummint
treating my homebuilt like a factory plane. Making logbook entries that
talk about complying with AD's are starting the slide down that slippery
slope.
(BTW, the dots were visible and connected; the people at the top just
refused to listen, just like they refused to listen to the CIA &
military prior to the current Iraq situation.)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
In any case, I personally do not like the idea of a poly/plastic media containing
my engines blood (oil). These engines are expensive! When I first saw the Ryton
sump it looked like a problem just waiting to happen. Just my .02 cents...
Darrell
Ron Lee wrote:
I don't believe this. How much ignitable fuel/air mixture can be there?
Plus the exhaust valve is likely open.
And it does not explain Doug's case were he has two mags.
Ron Lee
>What happens in the wasted spark ignition is that
>there are two sparks to a complete cycle. The first
>is at the top of the compression stroke. The second
>is at the top of the exhaust stroke and the opening of
>the intake valve. If the spark hits the fuel/air
>mixture at this point, a back fire occurs towards the
>carb or throttlebody and the ryton sump cannot contain
>the explosive condition, therefore, it disintegrates.
>
>Dave
---------------------------------
Blab-away for as little as 1/min. Make PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo! Messenger
with Voice.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: use tax in arizona |
No, it's not real consistent. I registered my RV-6A
back in '98 or so. I got a bill about 6 months later.
Told them it was just a pile of metal, and never
heard from them again.
Paul Besing
--- sarg314 wrote:
>
>
> Has any one registered their homebuilt in Arizona in
> the last 6 mo. or
> 12 months? I'd be interested in hearing your
> experience with the use
> tax and the AZ Dept. of Revenue. Apparently their
> response is not very
> consistent from one case to the next.
> --
> Tom Sargent
> RV-6A
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)ashcreekwireless.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ryton sumpsRyton sumps |
I've been on the phone all day researching this topic. Thanks for
pointing me in the right direction Gary.
Here's the deal:
If you want a "cold air sump", there seems to be 3 choices-
Ryton sump by Superior
Magnesium sump by ECI
Barrett Precision cold air sump
All the other metal sumps out there-
Aerosport Power
Aero Engines
Superflite
Are all copies of the Lycoming cast aluminum sump (not cold air sumps)
The Ryton sump (by Superior Engines) we've discussed before here, it
costs 1000 to 1300 dollars and will break when used with a wasted spark
electronic ignition system...if not sooner, then later. You might not
know it's broken unless you inspect it closely like I did. Superior
does not see the magnitude of the problem of the sumps it has in the
field, but is currently in a "redesign" of the Ryton sump to address the
wasted spark ignition issue. The new sump is expected out by October.
Based on other new product announcements, I wouldn't look for it a day
sooner.
The magnesium sump by ECI is just now becoming available and costs about
$2400 including the tubes. There are two of them out there on aircraft
so far. If you want to be #3, they should be ready to ship on May 22.
I was told I'd have to fab a support bracket for the Bendix or AFP servo
because that was "too much weight" out there for the induction portion
of the sump to hold unsupported. That bothered me. The flange for
mounting the fuel servo is also forward from where the Ryton sump flange
is, which will mean more extensive alteration of the air snorkel to get
it to fit.
I don't have the information on the Barrett Cold Sump system, but it is
the most expensive of the three. I'll post that here when I find it.
I guess that's it...
My choice will be the Superflight sump, when it's available in a few
weeks. It's a clone of the Lycoming forward facing sump, so it's not a
"cold air sump". I have made peace with that and decided if I get a
sump that WON'T BREAK, that will be more important than a few more
horsepower. All these clones of the Lycoming forward facing sump are
priced about the same at $2200.
I sure think there's a market out there for a well made cold air
induction system...but I don't think there's a good one at a reasonable
price that's available yet.
For those of you who are running Ryton sumps, I encourage you to inspect
them very closely and very regularly. Like every time you fly. Two of
these sumps that have broken here have actually broken into pieces that
fell out onto the ground below the aircraft. The others have just
cracked. In the case of my sump, the engine still ran fine with the
cracked sump. Had we had the engine cowled, I would have had no reason
to uncowl it to inspect it before going flying. Had the lower part of
the sump (where the fuel servo mounts) broken off in flight, I am sure
it would have ruined my day.
bob
rv7a
last few things plus a new induction system
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Didn't Superior just sell the company off to a German company.
My experience in the past when a company has a massive design problem with their
product line, they end up selling it off to another company, who of course
does not support the old line. Both times in the past it was with electronic
items not engine parts. Is that an effort to avoid liability? I wounder it the
German company knew about this before they bought it?
Not saying this is Superior's reason for the buy out, but I see this time and
time again, a company sell off ownership preceded by some massive design or QC
screw up of a product or line of products.
I guess there is something to be said for certified parts that have stood the
test of time.
George RV-7
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AD compliance documentation questions |
We are experimental amateur built and don't have to meet any AD or is there any
log book entry or maintenance regulation. All we have to do is have a condition
inspection sign off in the last 12 months. Bottom line we have NO regulations
and our aircraft are not certified or need to meet any particular regulation
(unless noted in the operating limitations).
However from a common sense stand point and what I do is comply with AD's on
my engine. I was on the fence about changing the prop Gov oil line from aluminum
to a stainless steel part. If the aluminum is properly supported, chance of
failure is nil (by the fact for many decades, on many planes, flown many hours
with no problem). I ended up changing it because the parts where fairly cheap.
Ramp checks? Who has been ramped checked? I get checked about once a year, but
that is airline flying. In private flying or as a corporate or CFI pilot instructor,
never in 20 years of flying. The chance is your more likely to get ramped
from a law officer because you just did a buzz job or wants to know if you
paied the state sales / use tax on the plane.
We have great freedom lets not goof it up by doing dumb things. Right now the
FAA has a healthy we don't need to know and don't want to know, you are experimental,
RIGHT wink wink nod nod. Fact is the FAA has a hard enough time doing
their other jobs. This may be a hit on our collective ego's, but flying little
planes that mostly seat two people is not a priority. However as HOMEBUILTS
have progressed into 6 place pressurized turboprops that can fly in the flight
levels (well above FL180). The FAA has a hard time ignoring this since they are
mixing it up with the airline traffic. I predict (it already has happened)
there will be two classes of amateur homebuilt experimental, small and large (turbine).
I hope we can stay off the Fed's radar and continue to enjoy minimal government
oversight so we can continue to exercise judgment and self imposed (common
sense) practices. I think by and large most homebuilts are very airworthy and
flown safely. However if this changes things will change. Just do the prudent
thing, but don't be paranoid. No one really cares about your AD status (at this
time). It is experimental RIGHT?
George
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
While I was gone on Vacation I saw a question about the MA-4-5 carb idle
mixture setting, but was unable to respond do to receive only status.
In the August 2004 Light Plane Maintenance periodical, I found the
following:
"Some MA-4 series carbs have something of a strange glitch in that you
can attempt to richen the mixture with the screw, but a 25 RPM rise at
altitude is all you'll get. Often these engines will have no rise at all
at sea level. Not to worry. The MA-4 series will operate well despite
the strange behavior, and problems are few.
No not, however, back the idle mixture knob out so far that
holding-spring tension is lost. There have been reports of the valve
falling out in flight."
To bad I did not see this before I lost mine on my first flight. Oh
well. If you do loose the screw in flight, all is well till you land
and the engine idles slower than in flight. When this happens you are
calling for full rich, and the engine quits due to flooding.
The point is, for MA-4 series only, adjust the idle mixture screw till
the engine idles well on the ground and forget trying to get a rise when
shutting down. Mine has been trouble free for the last 300 hours.
Sometimes I see a slight rise when shutting down, but it seems to be
totally dependant on atmospheric pressure and temperature.
Steve Glasgow - Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Our Cold air system is available only on the IO-540. We designed and
build them as an experimental replacement for the Lycoming certified
cold air sump (which costs approx. $8500) for any model parallel or
angle head IO/AEIO-540.
We do not have a cold air sump for the 360 engines. We tested some many
years ago and found that there was no performance enhancement, so we
decided not to pursue.
The IO-540 Cold Air System sells for $3995 as a stand alone unit, $3495
with an engine purchase.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
Here's the deal:
If you want a "cold air sump", there seems to be 3 choices-
Ryton sump by Superior
Magnesium sump by ECI
Barrett Precision cold air sump
All the other metal sumps out there-
Aerosport Power
Aero Engines
Superflite
Are all copies of the Lycoming cast aluminum sump (not cold air sumps)
I don't have the information on the Barrett Cold Sump system, but it is
the most expensive of the three. I'll post that here when I find it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)rconnect.com> |
Guys,
Here is an item from E-Magair regarding composite sumps.
He indicates back-firing can fracture composite sumps. I
hope this info is of value. I have an Aerosport O-320 with a
Slick and a P-Mag...
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
RV-9A, baffle & cowling
----- Original Message -----
From: Brad Dement
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 5:49 PM
Subject: Service Update
Service Update
Run Mode Starting Delay:
Starting September, 2005 new production units (as well as units getting
firmware updates after this time) will have a Run Mode Starting Delay
("RMSD") feature that will prevent plug firing until the ignition sees
two (2) passes of the TDC index. At start up, this will help ventilate
the intake and exhaust chambers of accumulated vapor.
Normal RMSD Operation - RMSD will engage when a "normal" start up
sequence is followed. i.e. The ignition is powered ON WHILE the key (or
other p-lead switch) is in the OFF position. (Note: This is the same
sequence used for entering Set Up Mode). Pilots then turn ON
(unground) the p-lead switch and start the engine.
Bypassing the RMSD - The RMSD can be bypassed (fire on the first index
pass) simply by powering the ignition ON WHILE the key (or other p-lead
switch) is in the ON position. This will enable prop starting, if
needed. Keep in mind that bypassing RMSD will increase the possibility
of igniting fuel vapor (if present) on the "wasted" side of the spark -
see below. At the time of this writing, this is felt to be problematic
only for those customers using composite oil sumps. For them, bypassing
RMSD will risk damaging the sump.
Emulating RMSD - It is also possible to emulate the RMSD manually
(without the update) if you use toggle (or similar) switches instead of
a key type ignition switch. Keeping the ignition p-lead switches
grounded (OFF) for a few revolutions during engine start, will
accomplish the same thing. Those who elect to not get the RMSD update
might use this technique when performing hot starts. See below.
Background - Wasted spark systems avoid the weight, mechanical
complexity, and high altitude operating issues associated with
traditional ignition distributors. In a wasted spark system, plugs are
fired in pairs at A) the charged cylinder that's ready to ignite, as
well as B) the opposing cylinder during the exhaust stroke. This second
spark is not intended to ignite, hence the name "wasted spark".
However, when restarting an engine shortly after shut down (a hot
start), it is possible for fuel vapor to accumulate in the intake
manifold. This vapor can be ignited by what is normally the "wasted"
side of the spark during valve overlap. [Valve overlap is when intake
and exhaust valves are momentarily open at the same time.] Even so, in
the one controlled (test cell) instance where this was observed, the
event itself was rather unremarkable. It was heard only as a hard
"puff" prior to engine start. However, in the test cell instance, the
intake manifold channeled this "puff" to the sump, which was later
measured as a 15 to 20 psi pulse. This pulse cracked the light weight
composite sump installed on this particular engine. An identical
replacement sump did the same thing during a second hot start. When
replaced with a standard aluminum sump, the problem did not recur on any
subsequent (hot or cold) starts.
To date, we have no other reports of sump related issues. So it's
tempting (and maybe appropriate) to narrowly define this as the only
configuration (fuel injection with side entry composite sumps) at risk,
but we don't know that with certainty. Either way, we'd rather engage
such issues with solutions, rather than require customers avoid
innovative and exciting new products. So the Run Mode Starting Delay
will be incorporated as a standard feature. It is also available as an
upgrade (free of charge) to all customers getting a firmware update
after September 1, 2005. The RMSD update is not mandatory unless you
are using, or plan to use a composite sump. NOTE: RMSD is a new
feature, and we cannot guarantee it will, in all cases, prevent ignition
on the wasted spark side if conditions are just right. In which case, a
composite sump, if used, could be damaged.
We hope this update is in keeping with your expectations of E-MAG
customer service and support. As always, your questions and comments
are welcome and very much appreciated.
Brad Dement
E-MAG Ignitions
649 Boling Ranch Road
Azle, Texas 76020
(817) 448-0555
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
I guess if one is wired per the AeroElectric schematic for dual P-mags, that the
RMSD bypass can be accomplished by use of the Ignition Maintenance Mode switch
in conjunction with the progressive transfer toggles that control normal ignition
operation. I have the old firmware and the Nuckolls wiring, and love the
way it starts my Lycoming on the first or second blade. I'd hate to give that
up for a firmware upgrade (which I need for the stumble issue) and not having
a Ryton sump to fret over.
-Bill B
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe & Jan Connell <jconnell(at)rconnect.com>
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Ryton sumps
Guys,
Here is an item from E-Magair regarding composite sumps.
He indicates back-firing can fracture composite sumps. I
hope this info is of value. I have an Aerosport O-320 with a
Slick and a P-Mag...
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
RV-9A, baffle & cowling
----- Original Message -----
From: Brad Dement
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 5:49 PM
Subject: Service Update
Service Update
Run Mode Starting Delay:
Starting September, 2005 new production units (as well as units getting
firmware updates after this time) will have a Run Mode Starting Delay
("RMSD") feature that will prevent plug firing until the ignition sees
two (2) passes of the TDC index. At start up, this will help ventilate
the intake and exhaust chambers of accumulated vapor.
Normal RMSD Operation - RMSD will engage when a "normal" start up
sequence is followed. i.e. The ignition is powered ON WHILE the key (or
other p-lead switch) is in the OFF position. (Note: This is the same
sequence used for entering Set Up Mode). Pilots then turn ON
(unground) the p-lead switch and start the engine.
Bypassing the RMSD - The RMSD can be bypassed (fire on the first index
pass) simply by powering the ignition ON WHILE the key (or other p-lead
switch) is in the ON position. This will enable prop starting, if
needed. Keep in mind that bypassing RMSD will increase the possibility
of igniting fuel vapor (if present) on the "wasted" side of the spark -
see below. At the time of this writing, this is felt to be problematic
only for those customers using composite oil sumps. For them, bypassing
RMSD will risk damaging the sump.
Emulating RMSD - It is also possible to emulate the RMSD manually
(without the update) if you use toggle (or similar) switches instead of
a key type ignition switch. Keeping the ignition p-lead switches
grounded (OFF) for a few revolutions during engine start, will
accomplish the same thing. Those who elect to not get the RMSD update
might use this technique when performing hot starts. See below.
Background - Wasted spark systems avoid the weight, mechanical
complexity, and high altitude operating issues associated with
traditional ignition distributors. In a wasted spark system, plugs are
fired in pairs at A) the charged cylinder that's ready to ignite, as
well as B) the opposing cylinder during the exhaust stroke. This second
spark is not intended to ignite, hence the name "wasted spark".
However, when restarting an engine shortly after shut down (a hot
start), it is possible for fuel vapor to accumulate in the intake
manifold. This vapor can be ignited by what is normally the "wasted"
side of the spark during valve overlap. [Valve overlap is when intake
and exhaust valves are momentarily open at the same time.] Even so, in
the one controlled (test cell) instance where this was observed, the
event itself was rather unremarkable. It was heard only as a hard
"puff" prior to engine start. However, in the test cell instance, the
intake manifold channeled this "puff" to the sump, which was later
measured as a 15 to 20 psi pulse. This pulse cracked the light weight
composite sump installed on this particular engine. An identical
replacement sump did the same thing during a second hot start. When
replaced with a standard aluminum sump, the problem did not recur on any
subsequent (hot or cold) starts.
To date, we have no other reports of sump related issues. So it's
tempting (and maybe appropriate) to narrowly define this as the only
configuration (fuel injection with side entry composite sumps) at risk,
but we don't know that with certainty. Either way, we'd rather engage
such issues with solutions, rather than require customers avoid
innovative and exciting new products. So the Run Mode Starting Delay
will be incorporated as a standard feature. It is also available as an
upgrade (free of charge) to all customers getting a firmware update
after September 1, 2005. The RMSD update is not mandatory unless you
are using, or plan to use a composite sump. NOTE: RMSD is a new
feature, and we cannot guarantee it will, in all cases, prevent ignition
on the wasted spark side if conditions are just right. In which case, a
composite sump, if used, could be damaged.
We hope this update is in keeping with your expectations of E-MAG
customer service and support. As always, your questions and comments
are welcome and very much appreciated.
Brad Dement
E-MAG Ignitions
649 Boling Ranch Road
Azle, Texas 76020
(817) 448-0555
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Just as an FYI, I know many vendors don't like to come off as pushing
their products on the lists so I thought I would forward this.....
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: Rhonda Bewley [mailto:Rhonda(at)BPAENGINES.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 11:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Ryton sumps
Sure Michael:
Barrett's Cold Air system is a vacuum impregnated magnesium casting
which is durable and lightweight. The castings used to be made of
aluminum, but we switched them to magnesium for the weight savings. The
plenum box removes intake charge from hot oil bath, resulting in approx
15 bolt on hp in a parallel head engine. Aerobatic bosses are
integrally cast, resulting in no welds to crack. The system is complete
with hardware, fittings and gaskets, no additional parts to buy and may
be installed with the engine already mounted.
The Van's standard cowl on the RV-10 doesn't fit with our cold air
because the system has horizontal induction and the inlet air is in the
wrong location on the cowl.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rhonda Bewley
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 9:34 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Ryton sumps
Our Cold air system is available only on the IO-540. We designed and
build them as an experimental replacement for the Lycoming certified
cold air sump (which costs approx. $8500) for any model parallel or
angle head IO/AEIO-540.
We do not have a cold air sump for the 360 engines. We tested some many
years ago and found that there was no performance enhancement, so we
decided not to pursue.
The IO-540 Cold Air System sells for $3995 as a stand alone unit, $3495
with an engine purchase.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
Here's the deal:
If you want a "cold air sump", there seems to be 3 choices-
Ryton sump by Superior
Magnesium sump by ECI
Barrett Precision cold air sump
All the other metal sumps out there-
Aerosport Power
Aero Engines
Superflite
Are all copies of the Lycoming cast aluminum sump (not cold air sumps)
I don't have the information on the Barrett Cold Sump system, but it is
the most expensive of the three. I'll post that here when I find
it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)ashcreekwireless.com> |
we do have the Ryton composite sump. Superior tells us that ours was #
11 to break. We are running slick mags.
This is huge news.
Up to now everyone has been repeating the mantra that the problems with
the Superior ryton sump have only occurred while coupled with electronic
ignitions utilizing wasted spark technology. If one has failed with
mags, then I would think all those people running Lasar ignitions are
now also under the same shadow of risk. Doug, do you have additional
details like when/how the failure occurred? A photo posted somewhere
would be most enlightening.
For those of us in the same situation, I believe we should all write to
Tim Archer, president of Superior, as well as Frank Thielert, who just
bought Superior, and express our concerns for a rapid solution to this
issue. They should pull the sumps off the market now and inform all
owners of the possibility of failure and the need to inspect the
induction system at the end of each flight. At the same time they need
to recognize the need/market for a reliable, lightweight cold air
induction system. Come on guys, this isn't rocket science.
Since I have totally lost confidence in the Ryton sump (as it's
currently manufactured), the solution I have been forced into is to try
(and I mean try...since there are none currently available anywhere) and
purchase an aftermarket cast aluminum forward facing sump. I am told
the shortest lead time is several weeks, with no firm delivery date. At
the time I receive it, I'll then have to completely re-do the fiberglass
snorkel, the fuel lines and linkages to compensate for the different
geometry of the two sumps. Superior is apparently willing to cover
$1000 for reimbursement of my old sump. The new one will cost about
$2200, so besides the lost 100 hours or so of labor, I'll be out an
additional $1500 dollars or so.
bob brown
rv7a
last few things, and a new induction system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
A few letters to them might help....
A few other letters might help also......EAA, AOPA, FAA
-----Original Message-----
>From: Karen and Robert Brown <bkbrown(at)ashcreekwireless.com>
>Sent: May 17, 2006 1:25 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Ryton sumps
>
>
>we do have the Ryton composite sump. Superior tells us that ours was #
> 11 to break. We are running slick mags.
>
>This is huge news.
>
>Up to now everyone has been repeating the mantra that the problems with
>the Superior ryton sump have only occurred while coupled with electronic
>ignitions utilizing wasted spark technology. If one has failed with
>mags, then I would think all those people running Lasar ignitions are
>now also under the same shadow of risk. Doug, do you have additional
>details like when/how the failure occurred? A photo posted somewhere
>would be most enlightening.
>
>For those of us in the same situation, I believe we should all write to
>Tim Archer, president of Superior, as well as Frank Thielert, who just
>bought Superior, and express our concerns for a rapid solution to this
>issue. They should pull the sumps off the market now and inform all
>owners of the possibility of failure and the need to inspect the
>induction system at the end of each flight. At the same time they need
>to recognize the need/market for a reliable, lightweight cold air
>induction system. Come on guys, this isn't rocket science.
>
>Since I have totally lost confidence in the Ryton sump (as it's
>currently manufactured), the solution I have been forced into is to try
>(and I mean try...since there are none currently available anywhere) and
>purchase an aftermarket cast aluminum forward facing sump. I am told
>the shortest lead time is several weeks, with no firm delivery date. At
>the time I receive it, I'll then have to completely re-do the fiberglass
>snorkel, the fuel lines and linkages to compensate for the different
>geometry of the two sumps. Superior is apparently willing to cover
>$1000 for reimbursement of my old sump. The new one will cost about
>$2200, so besides the lost 100 hours or so of labor, I'll be out an
>additional $1500 dollars or so.
>
>bob brown
>rv7a
>last few things, and a new induction system.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ryton sumps Ryton sumps Another fix or Solution |
| From: | "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Cc: , , "Condon, Philip
M."
I made a forward facing sump out of a Lycoming magnesium casting from a
B1A sump. The Normal B1A sump has a rearward machined injector mount
and also has a rough cast area in the front that can be machined flat
and the studs mounted to mount a front injector. I spent 90 dollars at
a machine shop in my little 'berg where I live to machine the front
rough cast flat and thread the studs. I cut a plate from 1/4 inch
aluminum stock to make a plate for the rear hole. Works fine and when
you eye-ball the sump you can see where the cast areas are identical in
the front or rear. This is not a TSO/FAA/PMA/STC'ed mod, but as
experimental, works great. The magnesium is light too. Not the cold air
thing, but at least not subject to breakage either.
I have a spare, untouched sump (as described); When I looked into this
a few years ago. One salvage yard sent me one a few months after I
contacted them...... then they didn't have one initially. Wires got
crossed and the sent me one (with a bill for 750$). So, I wound up with
two, modified the one now on my airplane--hence the spare in the
garage. Maybe this is a solution for the Ryton folks........
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
I've been on the phone all day researching this topic. Thanks for
pointing me in the right direction Gary.
Here's the deal:
If you want a "cold air sump", there seems to be 3 choices-
Ryton sump by Superior
Magnesium sump by ECI
Barrett Precision cold air sump
All the other metal sumps out there-
Aerosport Power
Aero Engines
Superflite
Are all copies of the Lycoming cast aluminum sump (not cold air sumps)
The Ryton sump (by Superior Engines) we've discussed before here, it
costs 1000 to 1300 dollars and will break when used with a wasted spark
electronic ignition system...if not sooner, then later. You might not
know it's broken unless you inspect it closely like I did. Superior
does not see the magnitude of the problem of the sumps it has in the
field, but is currently in a "redesign" of the Ryton sump to address
the
wasted spark ignition issue. The new sump is expected out by October.
Based on other new product announcements, I wouldn't look for it a day
sooner.
.......................................................................
....
The magnesium sump by ECI is just now becoming available and costs
about
$2400 including the tubes. There are two of them out there on aircraft
so far. If you want to be #3, they should be ready to ship on May 22.
I was told I'd have to fab a support bracket for the Bendix or AFP
servo
because that was "too much weight" out there for the induction portion
of the sump to hold unsupported. That bothered me. The flange for
mounting the fuel servo is also forward from where the Ryton sump
flange
is, which will mean more extensive alteration of the air snorkel to get
it to fit.
I don't have the information on the Barrett Cold Sump system, but it is
the most expensive of the three. I'll post that here when I find it.
I guess that's it...
My choice will be the Superflight sump, when it's available in a few
weeks. It's a clone of the Lycoming forward facing sump, so it's not a
"cold air sump". I have made peace with that and decided if I get a
sump that WON'T BREAK, that will be more important than a few more
horsepower. All these clones of the Lycoming forward facing sump are
priced about the same at $2200.
I sure think there's a market out there for a well made cold air
induction system...but I don't think there's a good one at a reasonable
price that's available yet.
For those of you who are running Ryton sumps, I encourage you to
inspect
them very closely and very regularly. Like every time you fly. Two of
these sumps that have broken here have actually broken into pieces that
fell out onto the ground below the aircraft. The others have just
cracked. In the case of my sump, the engine still ran fine with the
cracked sump. Had we had the engine cowled, I would have had no reason
to uncowl it to inspect it before going flying. Had the lower part of
the sump (where the fuel servo mounts) broken off in flight, I am sure
it would have ruined my day.
bob
rv7a
last few things plus a new induction system
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
My partner (A&P) was starting the engine and it backfired and blew the
bottom out of the induction plenum. He called Superior and they told him it was
the 11th, but all the others were with electronic ignition. Supposed to be about
200 engines on service. Probably not likely to happen in flight but I don't
feel good about it.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob 1" <rv3a.1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum altitude to return to airport |
Any one have some data points about real (not simulated) 180 deg turn
to touchdown gliding performance?
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg., MB
Sorta, Jim.
The last guy I knew that survived a 180 emergency back to the airport did
not make it.
Although he survived, his aircraft was a near total and so was his
passenger's face.
Many surgeries needed before even a shadow of her good looks returned.
No shoulder harnesses installed.
FYI...
Normally, a 180 turn will just put an aircraft PARALLEL with the departure
runway.
More than likely you will need additional turning [and time] to line up....
and then a turn [and time] in the opposite direction to utilize the
departure runway.
Add in downwind speed and things can get very interesting.
I believe a decision to turn back to the airport is like the popularity of
the lottery.
There are always enough winners to keep the suckers coming.
Bob - over a half century of flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum altitude to return to airport |
Well I did the impossible turn and am here to tell about it . . . no
dings on the aircraft either . . . it was in an old wood wing Mooney
(Mk 20A) near gross, and of course it had the manual gear and flaps .
. . I don't recall how high I was but I know I wasn't anywhere near
500 ft AGL (Probaly 200-350 AGL?). . . . I did have the gear up it was
a cold winter day . . . the engine quit . . . I bent her around hard
and got her turned back over the (7,000 ft) runway . . . popped the
gear back out just before flare.
I was young and brave and highly skilled (had just finished my
commercial program) . . . I knew I shouldn't but thought I could and
did!
Don't take this as a recommendation . . . I wouldn't have made it in
most aircraft . . . It scared the hell out of me and god knows whether
my passengers ever flew again
Good Luck!
Bob in SE Iowa
On 5/17/06, Bob 1 wrote:
>
>
> Any one have some data points about real (not simulated) 180 deg turn
> to touchdown gliding performance?
>
> Jim Oke
> RV-6A
> Wpg., MB
>
>
> Sorta, Jim.
> The last guy I knew that survived a 180 emergency back to the airport did
> not make it.
> Although he survived, his aircraft was a near total and so was his
> passenger's face.
> Many surgeries needed before even a shadow of her good looks returned.
> No shoulder harnesses installed.
>
> FYI...
> Normally, a 180 turn will just put an aircraft PARALLEL with the departure
> runway.
> More than likely you will need additional turning [and time] to line up....
> and then a turn [and time] in the opposite direction to utilize the
> departure runway.
> Add in downwind speed and things can get very interesting.
>
> I believe a decision to turn back to the airport is like the popularity of
> the lottery.
> There are always enough winners to keep the suckers coming.
>
> Bob - over a half century of flight
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
>Didn't Superior just sell the company off to a German company.
>
> My experience in the past when a company has a massive design problem with their
product line, they end up selling it off to another company, who of course
does not support the old line. Both times in the past it was with electronic
items not engine parts. Is that an effort to avoid liability? I wounder it the
German company knew about this before they bought it?
>
> Not saying this is Superior's reason for the buy out, but I see this time and
time again, a company sell off ownership preceded by some massive design or
QC screw up of a product or line of products.
>
> I guess there is something to be said for certified parts that have stood the
test of time.
>
> George RV-7
>
Hmmm......I seem to remember a certain certified tractor...uh...I mean
a/c carb changing hands a few times over the last decade, followed
shortly by an AD each time. Probably just a coincidence or 2. Or 3.
:->
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Hangar question - Not RV related |
Hi Listers, Like others, this is such a great resource even non RV rela
ted
I am drawing plans for a hangar on my own property. While the RV will fi
t
in a much smaller hangar, it isn't prudent (IMHO) to build a hangar that
small. What is the basic size of a hangar such as the typical T-hangars
at
the local airport? Width, depth, and ceiling height
Thanks
Tim
RV-6 N616TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar question - Not RV related |
Hello Tim,
IMHO, no smaller than 38x40 but a 40x40 would be perfect. A 12' ceiling would
work just fine.
Darrell
Tim Bryan wrote:
Hi Listers, Like others, this is such a great resource even non RV rela
ted
I am drawing plans for a hangar on my own property. While the RV will fi
t
in a much smaller hangar, it isn't prudent (IMHO) to build a hangar that
small. What is the basic size of a hangar such as the typical T-hangars
at
the local airport? Width, depth, and ceiling height
Thanks
Tim
RV-6 N616TB
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar question - Not RV related |
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> Hi Listers, Like others, this is such a great resource even non RV rela
>ted
>
>
>I am drawing plans for a hangar on my own property. While the RV will fi
>t
>in a much smaller hangar, it isn't prudent (IMHO) to build a hangar that
>small. What is the basic size of a hangar such as the typical T-hangars
>at
>the local airport? Width, depth, and ceiling height
>
>
My friend and I are in the middle of building a new hangar to house our
RV-7's. The hangar is 32' x 56' with a 40' x 10' door. Inside ceiling
height is 13'. It works out pretty well with the RV's angled in. Each
can get in and out without moving the other. Of course we have only had
one in the hangar to check out how well it fits because the hangar isn't
finished and my RV-7A isn't finished either. I will post pictures
within the next couple of days. Hangar construction web page, now that
is different.
Steve Eberhart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar question - Not RV related |
Thanks to all for the answers. This is about what I was thinking. My 1
70
was about 37' wingspan if I remember right.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Darrell Reiley
Date: 05/17/06 15:38:53
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar question - Not RV related
>
Hello Tim,
IMHO, no smaller than 38x40 but a 40x40 would be perfect. A 12' ceiling
would work just fine.
Darrell
Tim Bryan wrote:
Hi Listers, Like others, this is such a great resource even non RV rela
ted
I am drawing plans for a hangar on my own property. While the RV will fi
t
in a much smaller hangar, it isn't prudent (IMHO) to build a hangar that
small. What is the basic size of a hangar such as the typical T-hangars
at
the local airport? Width, depth, and ceiling height
Thanks
Tim
RV-6 N616TB
---------------------------------
e
big.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar question - Not RV related |
Tim ours is 3000sft. 50 wide 60 deep. Holds 3 rv's comfortably, but could
do 4 with a little care.
Dick
At 07:23 PM 5/17/2006, you wrote:
>
> Thanks to all for the answers. This is about what I was thinking. My 1
>70
>was about 37' wingspan if I remember right.
>Tim
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: Darrell Reiley
>Date: 05/17/06 15:38:53
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar question - Not RV related
>
> >
>
>Hello Tim,
>
> IMHO, no smaller than 38x40 but a 40x40 would be perfect. A 12' ceiling
>would work just fine.
>
> Darrell
>
>
>Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>Hi Listers, Like others, this is such a great resource even non RV rela
>
>ted
>
>
>I am drawing plans for a hangar on my own property. While the RV will fi
>
>t
>in a much smaller hangar, it isn't prudent (IMHO) to build a hangar that
>small. What is the basic size of a hangar such as the typical T-hangars
>
>at
>the local airport? Width, depth, and ceiling height
>
>Thanks
>Tim
>RV-6 N616TB
>
>
>---------------------------------
>e
>big.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar question - Not RV related |
When it comes to hangers, no matter how big you make it, it will be "too small"
in a year.
Mine is 46' wide by 38' deep. I wanted a minimum 40' door to accomodate my C172
I owned when I built the hanger. That width is good for many single engine
GA aircraft. The depth was a matter of how much hanger I could afford to build.
After owning this hanger for three years, I wish it was larger.
Craig
Eastover Air Ranch, Fayetteville, NC
RV8A ........ working on the canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar question - Not RV related |
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> Hi Listers, Like others, this is such a great resource even non RV rela
>ted
>
>
>I am drawing plans for a hangar on my own property. While the RV will fi
>t
>in a much smaller hangar, it isn't prudent (IMHO) to build a hangar that
>small. What is the basic size of a hangar such as the typical T-hangars
>at
>the local airport? Width, depth, and ceiling height
>
>Thanks
>Tim
>RV-6 N616TB
>
Most of the hangars on the airpark where I live are ~50x50 with 12'
eaves & 12' tall x 45' bifold doors. I've seen 4 Globe Swifts & a
Stinson 108 in a 50x52 hangar. (Careful fitting to do that.)
If you are building on agricultural land & want to save money, find the
chicken farmers in your area & ask them who builds their houses
(chicken, that is). For us, the chicken house builder was waaay cheaper
than any other option, except maybe do-it-yourself. Just about any
desirable width; length from here to eternity. The guy we used erects
the trusses on footing pads (no slab needed) so you can let the ground
dry out & get well packed with vehicle traffic before pouring the slab.
The interior & exterior can be as fancy as you desire after the roof is
up & the slab is poured.
I added a 30' wide 'lean-to' shop to my hangar, using metal purlins from
a metal building supplier. 12' at the original eave, 8' at the new eave
& I can taxi an RV into the shop. (~10' height at the prop location).
Anything taller is pretty much wasted (for RV's) unless you go up to at
least 14' eaves so you can add a mezzanine.
A 12' tall bi-fold door is just barely tall enough to accept something
like a Baron or big antique Biplane. Something like a Hydro-swing
one-piece door will add almost 2' to the usable opening.
My shop addition has 2" foam under the roof/in the walls & is at least
15 degrees cooler in the summer than the original hangar. I regret not
insulating under the slab when I had it poured.
I've probably told you more than you ever wanted to know; time to stop.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
We had a club 172 quit on final due to the idle
mixture needle departing the aircraft. Fortunately,
the pilot was over the fence when he pulled the
throttle to idle. That is when it quit. His landing
was uneventful other than having to be pushed off the
runway.
Dave
--- Steve Glasgow wrote:
>
>
> While I was gone on Vacation I saw a question about
> the MA-4-5 carb idle
> mixture setting, but was unable to respond do to
> receive only status.
>
> In the August 2004 Light Plane Maintenance
> periodical, I found the
> following:
>
> "Some MA-4 series carbs have something of a strange
> glitch in that you
> can attempt to richen the mixture with the screw,
> but a 25 RPM rise at
> altitude is all you'll get. Often these engines will
> have no rise at all
> at sea level. Not to worry. The MA-4 series will
> operate well despite
> the strange behavior, and problems are few.
>
> No not, however, back the idle mixture knob out so
> far that
> holding-spring tension is lost. There have been
> reports of the valve
> falling out in flight."
>
> To bad I did not see this before I lost mine on my
> first flight. Oh
> well. If you do loose the screw in flight, all is
> well till you land
> and the engine idles slower than in flight. When
> this happens you are
> calling for full rich, and the engine quits due to
> flooding.
>
> The point is, for MA-4 series only, adjust the idle
> mixture screw till
> the engine idles well on the ground and forget
> trying to get a rise when
> shutting down. Mine has been trouble free for the
> last 300 hours.
> Sometimes I see a slight rise when shutting down,
> but it seems to be
> totally dependant on atmospheric pressure and
> temperature.
>
> Steve Glasgow - Cappy
> N123SG RV-8
> Cappy's Toy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar question - Not RV related |
Start by checking the local building codes for hangars.Especially if you are
in an airpark. Some places have limits on the foot print and the maximum
height.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: not rv related |
| From: | "Jekyll" <rcitjh(at)aol.com> |
That's Indian Springs air field, not Indian Hills.
I saw Blue Man Group in Vegas. I've attended many concerts, shows plays and etc.
in my life, all over the world but I'VE NEVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE THIS ACT. It
will blow your mind!
It is clean, family fun. Well, it's not actually clean except that there's no vulgarity
or not-ready-for-prime-time language. Lots of paint flying around but
they don't get it on the audience.
Jekyll
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35154#35154
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)BPAENGINES.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 8:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Ryton sumps
>
> Regardless of what type of ignition source you have, or, which sump you
snip
Allen,
so why then don't any other sumps give the same problem as the Ryton?
regardless of make as you said in your post.
The method of using the electric boost pump is described method by Lycoming
to start their injected series of engines.
I'm somewhat confused by your post.
MJR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar question - Not RV related |
>From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
>
>I am drawing plans for a hangar on my own property.
>While the RV will fit in a much smaller hangar, it isn't
>prudent (IMHO) to build a hangar that small. What is
>the basic size of a hangar such as the typical T-hangars
>at the local airport? Width, depth, and ceiling height
>
>Thanks Tim RV-6 N616TB
Tim build it as large as you can afford and have room for.
Don't copy a T-hanger. I don't have dimensions but consider
the largest plane you may ever put it to it. The tallest planes
are Amphibian / Float planes. Consider a large twin like an
Aerostar or Navajo.
My plans (shelved for now) where for a hanger about 40 wide
by 50 feet (dream hanger 100 feet deep). In the back was a
shop and garage plus room for more than one plane. Don't
forget about height. You want to may be leave room for an
aircraft lift. http://www.armaerospace.com/
You forgot to mention MONEY. So build the biggest thing
you can. You will not regreat having too much room.
George
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar question - Not RV related |
>Don't know what a T-Hanger size is, but built it a little bigger then
>what you need whilst at it. You will never have to much room.
Except when you are trying to heat or cool it. In July and August it is
way too hot to work in, and then in Jan and Feb it is way to cold to work
in. If you have never tried heating a 50' X 50' uninsulated metal building
then you are in for a real surprise. A 250,000 BTU barn heater works great
if you are standing next to it!
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Childers <cowboy286(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | 0-320 E2D $10,500 |
0-320-E2D For Sale $10,500 removing from my 68 Cessna Cardinal for HP upgrade.
3,000 TT, 1056 SMOH, 560 STOH, new cam, main and rod bearings, and oil pump gears
130 hrs ago for oil pump repair. includes vacuume pump, starter and alternator,
price is outright NO core. Contact cowboy286(at)sbcglobal.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
Because the Ryton sump is the non metal. All others, at least that I
know about, are either aluminum or magnesium mostly. When an engine
backfires, there is a flame front. Continuing to crank the engine puts
the flame out. Except of course with the Ryton sump.
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RAS
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 1:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ryton sumps
----- Original Message -----
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)BPAENGINES.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 8:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Ryton sumps
>
> Regardless of what type of ignition source you have, or, which sump
you
snip
Allen,
so why then don't any other sumps give the same problem as the Ryton?
regardless of make as you said in your post.
The method of using the electric boost pump is described method by
Lycoming
to start their injected series of engines.
I'm somewhat confused by your post.
MJR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar question - Not RV related |
Tell 'em about your parachute trick, Bob ;-)
And be advised Stormy's fly-in is June 24th this year, and the LWB gang is all
invited for lunch.
-Bill B
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar question - Not RV related
>Don't know what a T-Hanger size is, but built it a little bigger then
>what you need whilst at it. You will never have to much room.
Except when you are trying to heat or cool it. In July and August it is
way too hot to work in, and then in Jan and Feb it is way to cold to work
in. If you have never tried heating a 50' X 50' uninsulated metal building
then you are in for a real surprise. A 250,000 BTU barn heater works great
if you are standing next to it!
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Ryton:Sniffle Valve |
... and be sure to test that sniffle valve before install. My first one from
Superior leaked air in the "closed" position.
Jerry Cochran
In a message dated 5/18/2006 12:04:59 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
Subject: RE: RV-List: Ryton sumps
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
Regardless of what type of ignition source you have, or, which sump you
have be it a Ryton, ECI, Lycoming, or Happy Joes from Kokamoe, if the
electric boost pump is used to prime the engine, you are getting fuel in
the intake plenum, plane (only spelling I know :)and simple! That is the
reason for the drain (sniffle valve). It is important that the sniffle
valve be located in the LOWEST spot on the induction part of the system,
with the plane at it's natural resting attitude. You have to realize
that if the pump is turned on say for 5 seconds, you have to wait until
you are confident that any excess fuel in the plenum has drained before
you crank the engine. This is in my opinion the cause of the Ryton
issue.
Allen Barrett
BPE, Inc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karen and
Robert Brown
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ryton sumps
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Childers <cowboy286(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | 0-320-E2D $10,500 |
0-320 E2D $10,500 Forgot to list mags and carb are also with it. Will be complete
with mags, carb, starter, alternator, and Vac Pump cowboy286(at)sbcglobal.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hangar question - Not RV related |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Bob,
That's why they make radiant heaters. Heat only the object(s) you're
aiming at, not the 'hole dern building.
Chuck Jensen
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
> Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 8:57 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar question - Not RV related
>
>
>
> >Don't know what a T-Hanger size is, but built it a little bigger then
> >what you need whilst at it. You will never have to much room.
>
> Except when you are trying to heat or cool it. In July and August it
is
> way too hot to work in, and then in Jan and Feb it is way to cold to
work
> in. If you have never tried heating a 50' X 50' uninsulated metal
> building
> then you are in for a real surprise. A 250,000 BTU barn heater works
> great
> if you are standing next to it!
>
> Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
I want to get a light weight canopy cover to travel with for my RV 4.
Anyone have a favorite one that they would recommend?
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
I don't know if this is considered light weight, but I have a Bruce's
Custom Cover for my RV-4 and love it.
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 Flying
RV-10 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PGLong(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 5:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy cover
I want to get a light weight canopy cover to travel with for my RV 4.
Anyone have a favorite one that they would recommend?
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy cover |
http://kennoncovers.com
These guys made a cover for my RV6 and it is great....and they were great to
work with.
tony marshall
rv6
polson, mt
----- Original Message -----
From: <PGLong(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 3:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy cover
>
> I want to get a light weight canopy cover to travel with for my RV 4.
> Anyone have a favorite one that they would recommend?
>
> Pat Long
> PGLong(at)aol.com
> N120PL
> RV4
> Bay City, Michigan
> 3CM
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy cover |
Hi Pat,
I have a canopy cover for my -6A that I bought from Van's. It is very
light weight and is more suitable for occasional use such as traelling.
I would want something heaver for continuous use if my plane were tied
down all the time. I am very happy with mine for my limited outdoor use.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
PGLong(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I want to get a light weight canopy cover to travel with for my RV 4.
>Anyone have a favorite one that they would recommend?
>
>Pat Long
>PGLong(at)aol.com
>N120PL
>RV4
>Bay City, Michigan
>3CM
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hangar Question - More Info |
| From: | Jack Haviland <jgh2(at)charter.net> |
> I was kinda thinking of the T-hangar
> sizes. Are they sized to accomodate most typical planes?
Tim,
A "typical" commercially built T-hangar intended for factory built single
engine aircraft is on the order 35' deep with a clear door opening 42' wide
and 12' high. Some or all of the major metal hangar building companies
have charts listing the height, width and depth of a wide variety of
aircraft. Check their websites e.g. FullFab and Erect-a-Tube.
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Heinrich Gerhardt" <hgerhardt(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | wing walk anti-slip |
Has anyone ever tried to use 3M rocker panel spray rock chip guard like
this:
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs66STLKCO
rrrrQ- for wing walk anti-slip? You'd have to use it between primer and top
coat, so it isn't something you can add after the plane is painted. This is
the same stuff that European cars have used for years on their rockers and
lower fenders for rock chip protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chopper 2" <mkellems(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy cover |
> I bought one from Van's for the -4 and then got one for the -3 as well --
> they are perfect for traveling. Grey in color - fit exact and lightweight
> nylon (I think) with a carry bag total weight is about 3lbs. About $150 I
> believe. Mike Kellems
>
>
> I want to get a light weight canopy cover to travel with for my RV 4.
> Anyone have a favorite one that they would recommend?
>
> Pat Long
> PGLong(at)aol.com
> N120PL
> RV4
> Bay City, Michigan
> 3CM
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> --
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | wing walk anti-slip |
We used urethane bed liner material from the body shop that was tintable to
any color. It can be color matched to any factory formula color. We actually
removed the old paint on aggregate type and messed the paint up underneath.
Then I masked off and scuffed the area, rolled on some bedliner and
walahhh....Was tough as nails and wasn't topcoated with paint to chip off.
Actually I used this stuff on the sillplates and on the canopy. Wherever
ther was going to be a fair amount of wear and tear....
steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Heinrich Gerhardt
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 9:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: wing walk anti-slip
Has anyone ever tried to use 3M rocker panel spray rock chip guard like
this:
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs66STLKCO
rrrrQ- for wing walk anti-slip? You'd have to use it between primer and top
coat, so it isn't something you can add after the plane is painted. This is
the same stuff that European cars have used for years on their rockers and
lower fenders for rock chip protection.
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I also have Van's cover on the RV-8. I consider it perfect for the
occasional use during overnight trips.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chopper 2 [mailto:mkellems(at)bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 9:54 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy cover
>
>
> > I bought one from Van's for the -4 and then got one for the
> -3 as well
> > -- they are perfect for traveling. Grey in color - fit exact and
> > lightweight nylon (I think) with a carry bag total weight is about
> > 3lbs. About $150 I believe. Mike Kellems
> >
> >
> > I want to get a light weight canopy cover to travel with
> for my RV 4.
> > Anyone have a favorite one that they would recommend?
> >
> > Pat Long
> > PGLong(at)aol.com
> > N120PL
> > RV4
> > Bay City, Michigan
> > 3CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: wing walk anti-slip |
In a message dated 05/18/2006 8:34:03 PM Central Daylight Time,
hgerhardt(at)earthlink.net writes:
wing walk anti-slip?
Just as a suggestion, here's what I did on my plane and it has really worked
out nicely- 1 year and 4 months since application and it still looks & works
great-
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5276
Thanks, George- good tip!
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell" <caldwel(at)ictransnet.com> |
Has any one in central or South FL glued their canopy. I am about ready
to start my RV-7 canopy and I would like to check out a glue job.
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy cover |
The cover from Bruce's Custom for the 6A weighs - are you ready - five pounds.
It's nice, but a bit heavy for those max baggage weight camping trips to OSH.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Canopy cover
I also have Van's cover on the RV-8. I consider it perfect for the
occasional use during overnight trips.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chopper 2 [mailto:mkellems(at)bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2006 9:54 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy cover
>
>
> > I bought one from Van's for the -4 and then got one for the
> -3 as well
> > -- they are perfect for traveling. Grey in color - fit exact and
> > lightweight nylon (I think) with a carry bag total weight is about
> > 3lbs. About $150 I believe. Mike Kellems
> >
> >
> > I want to get a light weight canopy cover to travel with
> for my RV 4.
> > Anyone have a favorite one that they would recommend?
> >
> > Pat Long
> > PGLong(at)aol.com
> > N120PL
> > RV4
> > Bay City, Michigan
> > 3CM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Roger,
I have glued my canopy on my RV9-A. I'm just finishing the
slider with a fiberglass rear skirt. I'll be leaving the windshild
untill I get my engine mounted and wired. You can come and see it any
weekend. Let me know.
Jim Nelson
St. Petersburg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Heinrich Gerhardt" <hgerhardt(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing walk anti-slip |
Thanks! That's just what I'm looking for.
Heinrich Gerhardt
RV-6 ready for paint
>In a message dated 05/18/2006 8:34:03 PM Central Daylight Time,
>hgerhardt(at)earthlink.net writes:
>wing walk anti-slip?
>Just as a suggestion, here's what I did on my plane and it has really
>worked out nicely- 1 year and 4 months since application and it still looks
& >works great-
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5276
Thanks, George- good tip!
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <dan.beadle(at)inclinesoftworks.com> |
| Subject: | Sealing tank inspection covers |
Did you use light or medium weight Titeseal?
Are there other areas that make sense to use this product?
Thanks
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Dudley
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 3:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Sealing tank inspection covers
FWIW
If you haven't yet sealed your inspection plates onto your tanks or
don't like using Pro Seal on your inspection plates, the following may
be of interest to you.
I originally sealed my tanks about four years ago. I've been flying for
a year with about 75 hours on my RV-6A.
I used the cork gaskets that were supplied with the wing kit. In the
assembly process, I coated the seal area of inboard rib surface with
Titeseal (that I purchased from ACS) and placed the cork gasket on the
coated surface. I then coated inside mating surface of the inspection
plate with the Titeseal and placed it on the gasket. I then inserted the
screws and torqued them a moderate amount that resulted in a small
compression of the gasket and extrusion of the Titeseal from the edges
and around the screws. The original pressure test of the tanks showed no
leaks around the inspection plate. After assembling the plane and
filling the tanks, there were no fuel leaks around the plates.
During the last few days, I removed the tanks to do the recent Service
Bulletin. After removing the screws from the inspection plates, they
lifted off without any effort. I then cleaned the old Tite-Seal from
both the plate and the inboard rib with acetone. After doing the work
for the SB, I then repeated the above procedures of Titeseal coating and
assembly. The tanks are re-installed and filled with fuel with no leaks.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AD compliance documentation questions |
George,
While I certainly support your opinion you do have something slightly wrong
in your opening statement where you say that nothing needs to be entered in
your logbook except the yearly condition inspection.
If you will look at your aircraft's Operating Limitations the very first
paragraph should have something to the sound that you must obey the
operating rules of FAR 91 and all additional limitations herein.
FAR 91.407(a) states that "no person may opeate any aircraft that has
undergone maintenance.....unless(1) approved for return to service by an
authorized person (in this case the owner is acceptable); and (2) The
maintenance record entry required by 43.9 or 43.11, as applicable, of this
chapter has been made.
Logbook entries for any maintenance are, therefore, required. Sorry. But
compliance with AD are optional.
Mike Robertson
>From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: AD compliance documentation questions
>Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 03:51:02 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>We are experimental amateur built and don't have to meet any AD or is there
>any log book entry or maintenance regulation. All we have to do is have a
>condition inspection sign off in the last 12 months. Bottom line we have NO
>regulations and our aircraft are not certified or need to meet any
>particular regulation (unless noted in the operating limitations).
>
> However from a common sense stand point and what I do is comply with
>AD's on my engine. I was on the fence about changing the prop Gov oil line
>from aluminum to a stainless steel part. If the aluminum is properly
>supported, chance of failure is nil (by the fact for many decades, on many
>planes, flown many hours with no problem). I ended up changing it because
>the parts where fairly cheap.
>
> Ramp checks? Who has been ramped checked? I get checked about once a
>year, but that is airline flying. In private flying or as a corporate or
>CFI pilot instructor, never in 20 years of flying. The chance is your more
>likely to get ramped from a law officer because you just did a buzz job or
>wants to know if you paied the state sales / use tax on the plane.
>
> We have great freedom lets not goof it up by doing dumb things. Right
>now the FAA has a healthy we don't need to know and don't want to know, you
>are experimental, RIGHT wink wink nod nod. Fact is the FAA has a hard
>enough time doing their other jobs. This may be a hit on our collective
>ego's, but flying little planes that mostly seat two people is not a
>priority. However as HOMEBUILTS have progressed into 6 place pressurized
>turboprops that can fly in the flight levels (well above FL180). The FAA
>has a hard time ignoring this since they are mixing it up with the airline
>traffic. I predict (it already has happened) there will be two classes of
>amateur homebuilt experimental, small and large (turbine).
>
> I hope we can stay off the Fed's radar and continue to enjoy minimal
>government oversight so we can continue to exercise judgment and self
>imposed (common sense) practices. I think by and large most homebuilts are
>very airworthy and flown safely. However if this changes things will
>change. Just do the prudent thing, but don't be paranoid. No one really
>cares about your AD status (at this time). It is experimental RIGHT?
>
> George
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Lyc -320 E2A/E2d differences |
I have gotten conflickting info re differences, Mags being one, and Carb
being the other so far. Can anyone say if I can for sure change my E2A
for an E2D without a problem? Charlie Heathco Send email direct is good
cheathco(at)cox.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sealing tank inspection covers |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
dan.beadle(at)inclinesoft wrote:
> Did you use light or medium weight Titeseal? Are there other areas that make
sense to use this product?
> Thanks Dan--
I too can echo Richard Dudley's experience and leak free success using Titeseal.
In my case, I used MEDIUM WEIGHT Titeseal with the cork gaskets. At the time,
I merely followed a suggestion offered in an Orndorff construction video.
In the video, George cautioned about the potential consequences of using proseal
on those fuel tank access covers. I was much inclined to agree since I worked
with proseal daily for too many years and know well...even intimately...how
tenacious its properties can be. Even in a highly skilled production environment
there sometimes arises a need to rework an assembly after the proseal has
set up and it is never fun to separate the parts, clean and prepare anew.
I have not used Titeseal in any other application. A pity they don't sell the
stuff in a much smaller container appropriately sized for the RV builder.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 126 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35486#35486
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing tank inspection covers |
Dan,
To be sure of the answer to your question, I'll have to check my Tite
Seal can at my hangar. I don't remember which I used. I plan to go to
the hangar tomorrow and I'll check and let you know.
I haven't used the Tite Seal anywhere else on the plane. For pipe
threads I have used Seal Lube, another material that is immune to fuel
and oil.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
Dan Beadle wrote:
>
>Did you use light or medium weight Titeseal?
>
>Are there other areas that make sense to use this product?
>
>Thanks
>Dan
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Dudley
>Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 3:04 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Sealing tank inspection covers
>
>
>FWIW
>
>If you haven't yet sealed your inspection plates onto your tanks or
>don't like using Pro Seal on your inspection plates, the following may
>be of interest to you.
>
>I originally sealed my tanks about four years ago. I've been flying for
>a year with about 75 hours on my RV-6A.
>I used the cork gaskets that were supplied with the wing kit. In the
>assembly process, I coated the seal area of inboard rib surface with
>Titeseal (that I purchased from ACS) and placed the cork gasket on the
>coated surface. I then coated inside mating surface of the inspection
>plate with the Titeseal and placed it on the gasket. I then inserted the
>screws and torqued them a moderate amount that resulted in a small
>compression of the gasket and extrusion of the Titeseal from the edges
>and around the screws. The original pressure test of the tanks showed no
>leaks around the inspection plate. After assembling the plane and
>filling the tanks, there were no fuel leaks around the plates.
>
>During the last few days, I removed the tanks to do the recent Service
>Bulletin. After removing the screws from the inspection plates, they
>lifted off without any effort. I then cleaned the old Tite-Seal from
>both the plate and the inboard rib with acetone. After doing the work
>for the SB, I then repeated the above procedures of Titeseal coating and
>assembly. The tanks are re-installed and filled with fuel with no leaks.
>
>Regards,
>
>Richard Dudley
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RaNDY Frost" <jamesrfrost(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey: I'm interested in both planes for different reasons.
Randy Frost
678-859-1861
>From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "RV-LIST"
>Subject: RV-List: RV-4 for Sale
>Date: Fri, 12 May 2006 16:51:08 -0400
>
>
>I am listing this for a friend of mine who has an RV-4 for sale. It has
>an O-320-D1A with 310 TTAE bought new from Van's. It is VFR and is in
>great shape. This is a very nice RV-4 that was built by a close friend
>of mine who is a retired sheet metal fabricator. This was the 3rd RV
>that he built and the workmanship is flawless. It is yellow and red.
>My friend is asking $45,000 for it. If you are interested or have any
>other questions you can contact Richard at rblakesl(at)ptd.net . Or I will
>try to answer any questions I can for you.
>Thanks,
>Jim
>
>Jim Cimino
>N7TL
>RV-8 S/N 80039
>200+ Hours
>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing walk anti-slip |
Hey hot dog you goin to fly up tomarrow for our wings weekend?
I got another toy for the panel :-)
http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/FWFfinishing.htm
Please update your address book with my new email address:
bobbyhester(at)charter.net
Surfing the Web, Highspeed now, from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>>From The PossumWorks in TN
>Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
After another couple of landings this week with noticable shimmy, I've
decided I'm tired enough of this problem to actually do something about
it.
Here are the four issues I usally see when the subject of shimmy comes
up:
- Wheelpant balance. I balanced 'em before the first flight, so I
have no idea if the balancing helped or hurt.
- Gear leg stiffeners. Don't have 'em.
- Wheel/tire balance. I have noticed that the gear seems more
shimmy resistant on new tires. This may be a roundness or a balance
issue.
- Air pressure - I keep it at 22-24 lbs, so reducing it more isn't
practical.
My plan is to:
1) Balance the wheels and see if this helps.
2) If not...New tires (balanced). This should take roundness out of
the equation.
3) If that doesn't work, I guess I'll pull off the gear leg fairings
and add wood stiffeners.
4) If *that* doesn't work, I'll remove the wheel pants and related
hardware. If that helps, I'll try a new set of wheel pants without
balancing 'em.
Anyone got a better plan? I'm all ears on this one.
By the way, how do you balance aircraft wheels? I don't remember any
suggestions on this.
Thanks in advance,
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Balancing |
I already posted about this a few months ago.
Check for tire roundness and then balance the wheel/tire
assembly. Also applies to nosegear.
My A&P has a balancing tool. Balance with motorcycle lead weights.
Previous post may have been Nose wheel shimmy topic.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Wings w/e screw-up |
Oh shit- is that tomorrow! Damn- I'm flying down to Orlando to talk to a guy
about building a -7A for him (do ya hate me?). Will update address- hmmm-
that's odd- I already got ya as bobbyhester(at)charter.net (?)
I remember you going over your engine/prop decisions- what did ya wind up
with & why? I also know another guy named Dan Garrett who is building a -7. He
is agonizing over what to buy for his panel- wants "occasional" IFR
capability. Looking at your panel you have the Dynon, Garmin audio panel, xpndr,
SL30(?) and 296(?) Do you feel this is enough for his requirements- in other words,
would you think just adding a 430 would make this good to go for his needs?
Maybe even lose the SL30 if 430 was on board. Nice panel, by the way!
so when ya gonna fire the puppy up? Brooks & I need more Middle TN formation
flyers- HURRY! You heard Tommy Walker has is Phase I done? Saw him at MBT
for b'fast Sat & his -6A REALLY came out nice!!
Take 'er e-z & gitrdun!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Balancing |
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2006 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel Balancing
>
> Kyle, you need to define shimmy, and where it's from. I think that
> technically, the nosewheel (or tailwheel) can have shimmy, but the mains
> cannot. Shimmy is the rapid back/forth movement of a wheel located
> behind a pivot point. Like a shopping cart. Another vibration can come
> from the Whitman - style main gear, which I call 'walking' for lack of a
> better term.
My issue is the mains on a tailwheel -6. You can get several different
movements on the mains. You can get a fore/aft walking thing going, but the
gear can also get into a wiggle about the vertical axis where the wheel goes
from toe-in to toe-out. Beyond that, the gear can also flex in and out.
There are plenty of movement options to go around! The gear leg stiffeners
probably best address the fore/aft movement, but that's a guess.
The only times I get a shimmy (or whatever we want to define it as) is on
landing or in seriously high speed taxi. Obviously, I don't know the exact
speed where it begins, but I'd guess 30 mph +/-. Once it starts, the shimmy
will continue down to almost walking speed. It is strange that I don't have
this problem accelerating for takeoff, but I don't...
>
> OK, what to do about shimmy. The pivot axis needs to be as vertical as
> possible. As the top of the pivot axis moves forward, the more prone to
> shimmy the wheel becomes. The second thing is the drag on the nosewheel
> fork. My Grumman has a castering nosewheel, and shimmy prevention is
> due to the pressure on the belleville washers. Belleville washers are
> cupped and you can nest and stack them for more drag as the spindle nut
> is tightened.
>
> As for the 'walking' of the mains .... well, the only knowledge I have
> is what's been on the list .... stiffeners on the gear legs.
> Personally, I hate the Whitman gear. Watching the wheels lurch fore
> and aft is just plain painful from an aesthetic point of view. Just my
> opinion. I'd much rather have a spring gear on my -10. Blasphemy, I
> know, but I'm going to consider it. Call it an experiment. But I
> digress. I can see 'walking' occurring from bent discs and/or dragging
> brakes or even bad bearings ...... but I don't think tire balance or
> fairings contributes to either 'malfunction'.
>
> Here's what I'd do. Go fly. Just after liftoff, see if the vibration
> goes away. If not, stomp on the brakes and see if it goes away. If it
> goes away, then you have an unbalanced tire on the mains. That leaves
> the nosewheel. Have someone watch you as you takeoff and land .....
> they'll be able to spot the shimmy or the walking. Work from there.
>
> As for balancing, jack the tire off the ground and loosen the axle nut a
> little. Spin the tire a couple of times and see if one place
> consistently ends up on the bottom. Aviation wheel weights are stick-on
> ...... cut an inch or so and stick it on the inside of the rim on the
> high side. Trim or add weight until the tire stops on a random spot.
> That's all there is to it.
> Linn
Thanks for the response...
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Balancing |
Kyle, here was the first post: http://tinyurl.com/zqt2r
And this: http://tinyurl.com/ku5uh
To check for out of round just spin it with a stick or suitable object
close to the tire (front or back). Look for even distance between the
stick and the tire as it rotates. It is obvious if significantly out of round.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JEllis9847(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Glueing Canopy |
Roger,
You can see the glued tip-up canopy on my 9-A at the Sarasota-Bradenton
airport (SRQ) in Sarasota, FL almost anytime.
To see pictures go to:
_http://wiki.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Gluing_Your_Canopy_
(http://wiki.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Gluing_Your_Canopy)
Scroll down to my name.
Jim Ellis
RV9-A tip-up,
ready for first flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Sealing tank inspection covers |
Dan,
I used the medium Teteseal to do my inspection covers originally and
used it again to do the SB. It is easy to use, and easy to remove when
access is required and no leaks. I have done the SB on covers which
were installed with Proseal and cannot recommend that route. What a
pain!
Ron Schreck
RV-8 "Miss Izzy"
Gold Hill Airpark, NC
> Did you use light or medium weight Titeseal?
> Are there other areas that make sense to use this product?
>Thanks
>Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wing walk anti-slip |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Mickey,
Have you explored "expercraft.com". I use the web site and its
free I got my build on their site. It fairly easy to use and pictures
are easy to attach on each daily entry.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A (90599)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sealing tank inspection covers |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Bob Collins wrote:
> Since my tanks won't be filled for a couple of years (at least, at thisrate),
is there any problem with using Titeseal now. Is there anyproblem,for example,
with cork drying out and affcting it, etc. etc.?-
The Titeseal is not likely to dry out. My tanks went empty for well over 2-1/2
years before the introduction of fuel. I found that over time, excess Titeseal
would slowly run down the tank sides. I simply wiped the excess ooze away.
The Titeseal that remains and oozes from the perimeter of the cork gaskets continues
to be "gooey" to the touch and will probably remain so. My guess...and
this is only a guess.....Titeseal applied to the cork gaskets now will keep them
soft and flexible indefinitely and there exists much less chance of the cork
drying out over time as opposed to shelving them exposed to the open air for
several years. Of course, stowing the cork gaskets in an airtight ziplock bag
over the long term would probably accomplish the same thing.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 126 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35571#35571
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> |
| Subject: | how mant rivet's are there ? |
So, About how many rivet's are there in an RV ??
Dan
-8
Elevators
Snohomish WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Cordner" <davcor(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | how mant rivet's are there ? |
the story I tell is 15 - 18,000 and you touch each hole about 10 times...
Dave
RV7 - N898DC (rsvd)
Rear fuse (706-712) riveting today
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 12:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: how mant rivet's are there ?
So, About how many rivet's are there in an RV ??
Dan
-8
Elevators
Snohomish WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing tank inspection covers |
Hi Dan,
I used the light version of Titeseal. However, if I were to do it again,
I would use the Medium. The light is low enough viscosity that any
excess creeps down the root rib and across the bottom surface of the
tank. I found the material had run into the sump valve. So, for several
weeks, I had to remove the valve and clean a small amount Tite Seal
material from it. I would expect that the viscoity of the medium would
reduce that tendency. At this time, I am finding no sign of the
material on the sump valves.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
Dan Beadle wrote:
>
>Did you use light or medium weight Titeseal?
>
>Are there other areas that make sense to use this product?
>
>Thanks
>Dan
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Dudley
>Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 3:04 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Sealing tank inspection covers
>
>
>FWIW
>
>If you haven't yet sealed your inspection plates onto your tanks or
>don't like using Pro Seal on your inspection plates, the following may
>be of interest to you.
>
>I originally sealed my tanks about four years ago. I've been flying for
>a year with about 75 hours on my RV-6A.
>I used the cork gaskets that were supplied with the wing kit. In the
>assembly process, I coated the seal area of inboard rib surface with
>Titeseal (that I purchased from ACS) and placed the cork gasket on the
>coated surface. I then coated inside mating surface of the inspection
>plate with the Titeseal and placed it on the gasket. I then inserted the
>screws and torqued them a moderate amount that resulted in a small
>compression of the gasket and extrusion of the Titeseal from the edges
>and around the screws. The original pressure test of the tanks showed no
>leaks around the inspection plate. After assembling the plane and
>filling the tanks, there were no fuel leaks around the plates.
>
>During the last few days, I removed the tanks to do the recent Service
>Bulletin. After removing the screws from the inspection plates, they
>lifted off without any effort. I then cleaned the old Tite-Seal from
>both the plate and the inboard rib with acetone. After doing the work
>for the SB, I then repeated the above procedures of Titeseal coating and
>assembly. The tanks are re-installed and filled with fuel with no leaks.
>
>Regards,
>
>Richard Dudley
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 for Sale |
Here is the info for the Archer with a picture and below is contact info ro
the RV-4, you can contact Rich for details and pictures of the -4.
John's Archer and the equipment list:
KX170B, KX175B, KT78 Transponder, KR86 ADF, KMA20 Audio,
Apollo 604 Loran, 4 Place Intercom, DME, EGT/CHT.
2410 TT, 410 SMOH
If you want to give him a call, here is his cell number:
570-350-4178
RV-4 Contact Rich at rblakes(at)ptd.net
Let me know if you get the info.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "RaNDY Frost" <jamesrfrost(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2006 9:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-4 for Sale
>
> Hey: I'm interested in both planes for different reasons.
>
> Randy Frost
>
> 678-859-1861
>
>
>>From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net>
>>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: "RV-LIST"
>>Subject: RV-List: RV-4 for Sale
>>Date: Fri, 12 May 2006 16:51:08 -0400
>>
>>
>>I am listing this for a friend of mine who has an RV-4 for sale. It has
>>an O-320-D1A with 310 TTAE bought new from Van's. It is VFR and is in
>>great shape. This is a very nice RV-4 that was built by a close friend
>>of mine who is a retired sheet metal fabricator. This was the 3rd RV
>>that he built and the workmanship is flawless. It is yellow and red.
>>My friend is asking $45,000 for it. If you are interested or have any
>>other questions you can contact Richard at rblakesl(at)ptd.net . Or I will
>>try to answer any questions I can for you.
>>Thanks,
>>Jim
>>
>>Jim Cimino
>>N7TL
>>RV-8 S/N 80039
>>200+ Hours
>>http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Linman" <joplin1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | HARMON ROCKET II FOR SALE |
I just placed this ad in Barnstormers.
HARMON ROCKET II =95 PRICE SLASHED =95 I must sell this beautiful Harmon
Rocket II because of my age and related health problems. Cruise with
your Van RV buddies or climb at 3000 fpm and accelerate out to 230 MPH
when you are in a hurry. Gets excellent MPG at economy cruise 210 to 220
miles per hour. Light fast, mini fighter with 290 HP IO-540 Lycoming,
525 hrs, 2-blade Hartzell 95 hrs SOH, King KLX135A Gps/Comm, KY97A
Transceiver, KT76A Transponder, Rocky Mountain Instrument Monitor and
Encoder, Full Gyros, Navaid auto pilot couples to GPS, Whelen Strobes,
Dual Landing Lights, Oxygen for two people and more. Click this URL for
photos and details:
http://www.myplaneonline.com/N76HR.html
Contact John P. Linman - located Grants Pass, OR USA =95 Telephone:
541-218-8393 =95 Posted May 20, 2006 =95 Recommend This Ad to a Friend
=95 Send a Message
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Rotorway Exec 90 helicopter for sale |
Listers,
A friend has asked that I let you know about a Rotorway Exec 90 kit
built helicopter for sale. The owner/builder of the helicopter died
in a motorcycle accident 3 years ago. His widow has decided to sell
off all his toys, including this helicopter. The kit was finished and
flown about 3.5 to 4 years ago.
It is currently partially disassembled. The tail boom and
instrument panel are apart. For more information please contact
Cindy at (954)648-6569
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin 296 features? |
I have a Garmin 296 and a SL30 Nav/Com.
I have read that the 296 can set the com freqs automatically on the
SL30. If so can someone give me the direction for hooking this up and
making it work?
I also heard that it can be hooked up to the Garmin audio panel and give
verbal terrain avoidance warning. How does that get hooked up?
Anybody have links to these directions or any more info about these
features?
--
Please update your address book with my new email address:
bobbyhester(at)charter.net
Surfing the Web, Highspeed now, from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296 features? |
There is a serial output (two actually) that you need
to hook up. You need a special garmin cable that
plugs into the power port on the back and has loose
wires coming out. That is for the connection to the
SL30. The audio warning is done by a 1/8" stereo jack
that is on the back lower corner of the unit. You can
wire that to an unswitched audio on your audio panel,
or if your audio panel has a 1/8" input jack, you can
just get a 1/8" to 1/8" cable and plug that in.
I found the terrain feature kind of annoying because
it tells you to "pull up" even if you are landing at
your destination airport! She get's quite frustrated
and says "pull up, pull up!" in an ever increasing
urgency in her voice!
Paul Besing
--- Bobby Hester wrote:
>
>
> I have a Garmin 296 and a SL30 Nav/Com.
> I have read that the 296 can set the com freqs
> automatically on the
> SL30. If so can someone give me the direction for
> hooking this up and
> making it work?
>
> I also heard that it can be hooked up to the Garmin
> audio panel and give
> verbal terrain avoidance warning. How does that get
> hooked up?
>
> Anybody have links to these directions or any more
> info about these
> features?
>
> --
> Please update your address book with my new email
> address:
> bobbyhester(at)charter.net
> Surfing the Web, Highspeed now, from Hopkinsville,
> KY
> Visit my web site at:
> http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296 features? |
Paul,
I think you are describing the 396. Mr. Hester's question was regarding the
296 which does not have features.
Dale Ensing
There is a serial output (two actually) that you need
to hook up. You need a special garmin cable that
plugs into the power port on the back and has loose
wires coming out. That is for the connection to the
SL30. The audio warning is done by a 1/8" stereo jack
that is on the back lower corner of the unit. You can
wire that to an unswitched audio on your audio panel,
or if your audio panel has a 1/8" input jack, you can
just get a 1/8" to 1/8" cable and plug that in.
Paul Besing
--- Bobby Hester wrote:
>
> I have a Garmin 296 and a SL30 Nav/Com.
> I have read that the 296 can set the com freqs
> automatically on the
> SL30. >
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 296 features? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296 features?
>
> Paul,
> I think you are describing the 396. Mr. Hester's question was regarding
the
> 296 which does not have features.
> Dale Ensing
>
> There is a serial output (two actually) that you need
> to hook up. You need a special garmin cable that
> plugs into the power port on the back and has loose
> wires coming out. That is for the connection to the
> SL30. The audio warning is done by a 1/8" stereo jack
> that is on the back lower corner of the unit. You can
> wire that to an unswitched audio on your audio panel,
> or if your audio panel has a 1/8" input jack, you can
> just get a 1/8" to 1/8" cable and plug that in.
>
> Paul Besing
>
> --- Bobby Hester wrote:
> >
> > I have a Garmin 296 and a SL30 Nav/Com.
> > I have read that the 296 can set the com freqs
> > automatically on the
> > SL30. >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296 features? |
It's the same unit, except for the XM radio and
weather. The cable is still required.
Paul Besing
--- Dale Ensing wrote:
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 9:05 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296 features?
>
>
>
> >
> > Paul,
> > I think you are describing the 396. Mr. Hester's
> question was regarding
> the
> > 296 which does not have features.
> > Dale Ensing
> >
> > There is a serial output (two actually) that you
> need
> > to hook up. You need a special garmin cable that
> > plugs into the power port on the back and has
> loose
> > wires coming out. That is for the connection to
> the
> > SL30. The audio warning is done by a 1/8" stereo
> jack
> > that is on the back lower corner of the unit. You
> can
> > wire that to an unswitched audio on your audio
> panel,
> > or if your audio panel has a 1/8" input jack, you
> can
> > just get a 1/8" to 1/8" cable and plug that in.
> >
> > Paul Besing
> >
> > --- Bobby Hester wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a Garmin 296 and a SL30 Nav/Com.
> > > I have read that the 296 can set the com freqs
> > > automatically on the
> > > SL30. >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296 features? |
Paul Besing said
"It's the same unit, except for the XM radio and
weather. The cable is still required."
Yes, but the 296 does not have the 1/8" stereo out put. At least mine
doesn't.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Problem |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Flying a photo flight, your buddy was probably at a reduced power setting which
could make the icing more probable. If the ice cleared up while decending through
4000' or so, then I would imagine he flew into warmer and/or dryer air.
I used to have a link to a handy-dandy carb ice chart which plotted % power, RH
and OAT. As I recall, the most severe icing occurred in the 70-75-F range (at
high humidity and reduced power of course). But showed moderate icing could
occur as low as 40-50 F and up to 90 F when near 100% RH.
I'd bet your friend iced up the carburetor.
2 cents
Bryan Jones -8
Houston, Texas
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35774#35774
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Low RPM Harmful ? |
At our EAA Chapter meeting the gossip turned to cruise rpm settings. One
pilot, who I had thought was fairly knowledgeable, said that low rpm
settings (say 2000 or so) for an extended time would harm the valves.
I can't see his logic and didn't have the opportunity at the meeting to
question him further about his statement. My relatively uninformed view
is that his idea isn't on track.
Opinions from engine experts would be welcome.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics BBS Forums |
Hello Listers,
I just wanted to send out a reminder to all of the Listers regarding the new-ish
BBS (Bulletin Board System) Forums that are available at Matronics for the Email
Lists. The BBS Forums give you Web-based access into the same email content
that is generated by the Email Lists. When an email message is posted to
any of the email lists, a copy of the message is also copied to the respective
List forum section on in the BBS Forums. By the same token, when a message is
posted within the BBS Forum interface context, it will also be posted to the
respective email list.
Basically, the BBS Forums give you yet another method of accessing the Matronics
Email List content. Some people prefer email, some prefer web forums; now you
can have it either way or both with the Matronics Lists!
You'll have to register for a login/password on the BBS Forum to _post_ from the
BBS, but you can view message content without registering for an account. To
Register for an account, look for the link at the top of the main BBS Forum
page entitled "Register". Click on it and follow the instructions. Site Administrator
approval will be required (to keep spammers out), but I will try to
get these approved in less than 24 hours.
If you haven't yet taken a look at the Matronics Email List content over on the
BBS Forum, surf on over and take a peek. Its pretty cool. The URL is:
http://forums.matronics.com
I want to stress that the BBS Forums are simply an adjunct to the existing Matronics
Email Lists; another way of viewing and interacting with the Matronics List
content. If you like Email, great. If you like Web Forums, great. If you
like both, great. Its up to you how you view and create your content.
You will also find a URL link at the bottom of this email called Matronics List
Features Navigator. You can click on this link at any time to find URL links
to all of the other great features available on the Matronics site like the Archive
Search Engine, List Browse, List Download, FAQs, Wiki, and lots more.
There is a specific Navigator for each Email List and the link for this specific
List is shown below.
Thanks for all the great list participation and support; it is greatly appreciated!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low RPM Harmful ? |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com wrote:
> At our EAA Chapter meeting the gossip turned to cruise rpm settings. One
> pilot, who I had thought was fairly knowledgeable, said that low rpm
> settings (say 2000 or so) for an extended time would harm the valves.
>
> I can't see his logic and didn't have the opportunity at the meeting to
> question him further about his statement. My relatively uninformed view
> is that his idea isn't on track.
>
> Opinions from engine experts would be welcome.
I'm not an expert, but I would think he had it reversed. Higher RPM will cause
greater dynamic loads on the valve train and other moving parts. Valves contact
the seat when the cylinder is under compression, transferring very little
load anywhere except the inside of the cylinder.
Lower rpm would be easier on the moving parts, but the cumbustion chamber will
see higher pressures longer. This results in higher cylinder pressure and greater
blowby (if sealing is an issue).
2 cents
Bryan
Houston
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35901#35901
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296 features? |
Oh...my fault. I thought it did. Make sense, since
the 296 doesn't have XM, there isn't a need for the
1/8" output.
Paul Besing
--- Dale Ensing wrote:
>
>
> Paul Besing said
> "It's the same unit, except for the XM radio and
> weather. The cable is still required."
>
> Yes, but the 296 does not have the 1/8" stereo out
> put. At least mine
> doesn't.
> Dale Ensing
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Reiche <charlieray(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 296 features? |
The audio for the 296 for audio beeps and boops and warnings, if it has them
should also live in the data cord that you would use to get "Aviation"
position data or VHF freq data. Check on the tag that comes with the cable.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: RV-List: Garmin 296 features?
>
> Oh...my fault. I thought it did. Make sense, since
> the 296 doesn't have XM, there isn't a need for the
> 1/8" output.
>
> Paul Besing
>
> --- Dale Ensing wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Paul Besing said
>> "It's the same unit, except for the XM radio and
>> weather. The cable is still required."
>>
>> Yes, but the 296 does not have the 1/8" stereo out
>> put. At least mine
>> doesn't.
>> Dale Ensing
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> FAQ,
>>
>>
>> Admin.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com> |
| Subject: | New Lycoming Engine Installation |
Has anyone drained the Preservative Oil from their new Lycoming engine
AFTER installion of the engine on the airframe? The Service Instruction
No 1472 says to do it PRIOR to installing the engine, but it is not
possible to install the engine and then run it within 6 months of
installation. Any tips?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Lycoming Engine Installation |
Yep, I drained my preservative oil right before my first engine run. The
engine had long since been installed on the airplane.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (912 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 7:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: New Lycoming Engine Installation
>
> Has anyone drained the Preservative Oil from their new Lycoming engine
> AFTER installion of the engine on the airframe? The Service Instruction
> No 1472 says to do it PRIOR to installing the engine, but it is not
> possible to install the engine and then run it within 6 months of
> installation. Any tips?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [RV Builders] Garmin 296 features? |
I'm thinking it should go somthing like this:
Garmin cable on GPS: Garmin GMA340:
Black = Ground
Yellow = Port 1 In From my SL30 not
sure what pin yet
Brown = Voice + ADF In Pin #7 Connector J1
Green = Port 2 In From my autopilot
(later) not sure what pin yet
Red = DC Power
Blue = Port 1 Out To my SL30 not sure
what pin yet
White = Alarm Not sure
Orange = Voice - ADF Return Pin #8
Connector J1
Violete = Port 2 Out To my autopilot
(later) not sure what pin yet
This was just a quick look over I'll study it some more then varify with
Garmin.
My new email address: bobbyhester(at)charter.net
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A N857BH SB wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
Bobby Hester wrote:
> When I get time I'm going to sit down and figure out exaclly what pin
> goes to what.
> I looked at the Garmin cable that I have installed and here are the wires:
> Black = Ground
> Yellow = Port 1 In
> Brown = Voice +
> Green = Port 2 In
> Red = DC Power
> Blue = Port 1 Out
> White = Alarm
> Orange = Voice -
> Violete = Port 2 Out
>
>My new email address: bobbyhester(at)charter.net
>Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
>Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>RV7A N857BH SB wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
>
>
>
> Dave Figgins wrote:
>
>> I have the 396 hooked to my audio panel, I use the audio output on
>> the back of the 396 with a short mini jack cable to the aux input of
>> my PM2000 audio panel. Seems to work fine for terrain warnings but
>> have not figured out how to get other warning tones through the
>> intercom (fuel timer etc). According to Garmin all the audio outputs
>> go through this jack. You can get a cable from Garmin that has the
>> wires free to enable you to hard wire power audio and serial in/out.
>> Dave
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> From: RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com [mailto:RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
>> Bobby Hester
>> Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2006 7:26 PM
>> To: RV-List; RV7A
>> Subject: [RV Builders] Garmin 296 features?
>>
>> I have a Garmin 296 and a SL30 Nav/Com.
>> I have read that the 296 can set the com freqs automatically on the
>> SL30. If so can someone give me the direction for hooking this up and
>> making it work?
>>
>> I also heard that it can be hooked up to the Garmin audio panel and give
>> verbal terrain avoidance warning. How does that get hooked up?
>>
>> Anybody have links to these directions or any more info about these
>> features?
>>
>> --
>> Please update your address book with my new email address:
>> bobbyhester(at)charter.net
>> Surfing the Web, Highspeed now, from Hopkinsville, KY
>> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
>
>
> The RV Aircraft Builders Group
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Family reunion
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Family+reunion&w1=Family+reunion&w2=Aviation+school&w3=Plane+tickets&w4=Charter+plane&w5=Aviation+headset&c=5&s=101&.sig=saH-2YDdiNlrMxaQLxLrfQ>
> Aviation school
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Aviation+school&w1=Family+reunion&w2=Aviation+school&w3=Plane+tickets&w4=Charter+plane&w5=Aviation+headset&c=5&s=101&.sig=cjWB8GRwKv5Uz5jKzlcPDw>
> Plane tickets
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Plane+tickets&w1=Family+reunion&w2=Aviation+school&w3=Plane+tickets&w4=Charter+plane&w5=Aviation+headset&c=5&s=101&.sig=bI7w_J2BWUncI7wuOyb8iw>
>
> Charter plane
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Charter+plane&w1=Family+reunion&w2=Aviation+school&w3=Plane+tickets&w4=Charter+plane&w5=Aviation+headset&c=5&s=101&.sig=Vr2y7jdOh-aD-lYP1YW3Eg>
> Aviation headset
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Aviation+headset&w1=Family+reunion&w2=Aviation+school&w3=Plane+tickets&w4=Charter+plane&w5=Aviation+headset&c=5&s=101&.sig=qfyQdo1ehHCPdcZQoKzEFQ>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
> * Visit your group "RV7A <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7A>" on
> the web.
>
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>
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> Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Lycoming Engine Installation |
On 05/22 7:42, Dan Checkoway wrote:
> Yep, I drained my preservative oil right before my first engine run. The
> engine had long since been installed on the airplane.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (912 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
Ditto. Make sure to pull the plugs and get them good and clean.
Lots of, uh, stuff in there. :)
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Low RPM Harmful ? |
If all else fails, read the manual.
For the engine side of the system:
Figure 3-17 & 3-19 are similar for the IO-540-C & -D engines.
Minimum RPM & Maximum MP continuous power settings are 1800 RPM @ 25" MP to
2200 RPM @ 29" MP.
For the propeller side of the system:
MT Propeller engineering says these engine power settings are acceptable
with the RV-10 MT Propeller.
Does anyone know what is acceptable for the RV-10 Hartzell propeller?
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 05/22/2006 9:24:59 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Fasching"
At our EAA Chapter meeting the gossip turned to cruise rpm settings. One
pilot, who I had thought was fairly knowledgeable, said that low rpm
settings (say 2000 or so) for an extended time would harm the valves.
I can't see his logic and didn't have the opportunity at the meeting to
question him further about his statement. My relatively uninformed view
is that his idea isn't on track.
Opinions from engine experts would be welcome.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Who is this guy? |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Terrific low level flying. Does anybody know who the pilot is?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ij1qWr99qLE
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 128 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35956#35956
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Who is this guy? |
It was called treetop flyer when I saw it a few weeks back and put it out on
the list for others to see. All I know is he's wearing a UW huskies cap.
Probably someone out here in the west.
jim bowen
lake yapps, wa.
>From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Who is this guy?
>Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 22:43:13 -0700
>
>
>Terrific low level flying. Does anybody know who the pilot is?
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ij1qWr99qLE
>
>Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 128 hours
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35956#35956
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Brown" <cptbuzz(at)adelphia.net> |
Guys,
I am selling my RV4. I have it listed on ebay now, item number
4643128671. If you or anyone you know is interested, please email me.
Thanks!
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low RPM Harmful ? |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Bryan,
Intuition is a strong force....that's often wrong. While the argument
of engine life v. operating will not be settled soon, primarily because
there is no one single answer, Aviation Consumer did a 'study' of the
issue and canvassed many of the engine builders and over haulers and
looked at, in detail, peak cylinder pressures and other issues of
running at high v. low rpm.
In short, the consensus was running at higher rpm and higher hp output
equated well with engine life for a variety of reasons, but upper most
among them was stress on the engine. The worst power configuration was
low rpm, high power output. As rpm went up, stress was reduced. The
cylinder wear from more linear feet of piston travel was also
counter-intuitive. The cylinder wear was more a function of peak
pressures, which were lower at higher rpm; hence higher rpm operations
reduced cylinder wear.
We always need to remember, 'for every complex question, there is a
simple answer---that's wrong.'
Chuck Jensen
I slept at a Holiday Inn last night.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bdjones1965
> Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 5:44 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Low RPM Harmful ?
>
>
>
> n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com wrote:
> > At our EAA Chapter meeting the gossip turned to cruise rpm settings.
One
> > pilot, who I had thought was fairly knowledgeable, said that low rpm
> > settings (say 2000 or so) for an extended time would harm the
valves.
> >
> > I can't see his logic and didn't have the opportunity at the meeting
to
> > question him further about his statement. My relatively uninformed
view
> > is that his idea isn't on track.
> >
> > Opinions from engine experts would be welcome.
>
> I'm not an expert, but I would think he had it reversed. Higher RPM
will
> cause greater dynamic loads on the valve train and other moving parts.
> Valves contact the seat when the cylinder is under compression,
> transferring very little load anywhere except the inside of the
cylinder.
>
> Lower rpm would be easier on the moving parts, but the cumbustion
chamber
> will see higher pressures longer. This results in higher cylinder
> pressure and greater blowby (if sealing is an issue).
>
> 2 cents
>
> Bryan
> Houston
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35901#35901
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV: Low RPM Harmful ? |
Great question. With gas prices what they are flying at low power is
a great idea. The idea of saving wear on the engine not so much.
I am no expert but Lycoming is, and here is a key reprint (article)
from Lycomings Flyer publication.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/keyReprints/operation/lowPowerLowRPM.html
Bottom line engine parameters should be within limits (for my O360A1A):
CHT: 280-400F*
Oil Temp: 185-210F*
*(These are all personal limits, 190F OT is what I like to see; much lower
than this you are not buring off the water from conbustion fully and it stays
in your crank case. 300F CHT is as cold as I like to see. Below that you
can get more lead deposits.)
See your manual for proper limits.
also
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/keyReprints/operation/leaningEngines.html
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/keyReprints/operation/properLeaning.html
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/keyReprints/operation/powerSettings.html
You also have to watch prop limits. In my case I have a no 2000-2500rpm
continuous ops stay out range. I could fly at 1950 rpm but that is not
quite enough get up an go for me. However is I was circling and going for
endurance I could go 1900 RPM. IT is all about percent power. For my
RV-7 the best L/D is down in the 100mph range, so for a real slow flight
of say 120-140 mph it does not take much power. The gas burn is very
low. I think more in percent power and not RPM alone. Bottom line
RPM is part of the power equation and thus ECON. I don't worry about
wear. A Lyc can be flown at 2,700 rpm all day. The reason is GAS.
Cheers George
>From: "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
>
>At our EAA Chapter meeting the gossip turned to cruise rpm settings.
>One pilot, who I had thought was fairly knowledgeable, said that low rpm
>settings (say 2000 or so) for an extended time would harm the valves.
>
>I can't see his logic and didn't have the opportunity at the meeting to
>question him further about his statement. My relatively uninformed view
>is that his idea isn't on track.
>
>Opinions from engine experts would be welcome.
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
Go to this site
http://www.tc.gc.ca/CivilAviation/publications/tp14371/AIR/2-1.htm#2-3
scroll down to the carb ice chart and compare it to the temp and dew
point on that day.
>All, I have a friend who was recently flying a photo shoot at 9500' in a Cessna
>when the engine began running rough. He quickly pulled carb heat and
>the engine began running normally, but as soon as he pushed in the carb heat
>control, the engine began running rough again.
>
>As he descended to around 4000' feet, the engine began running fine without
>using carb heat. Disassembly of the carb has revealed no problem. Any ideas
>about what could be the cause? Carb Ice, maybe?
>
>Walt Shipley
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
Can someone scan a copy of Van's Crotch Strap Instructions for an RV7A (pdf) to
me to review?
Darrell
---------------------------------
with Voice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 26 Msgs - 05/22/06 Carb ice |
One of the best carb ice detectors is EGT. Carbureted Lycomings will
develop small amounts of ice under surprisingly clear conditions. The first
symptom if you are cruising fully leaned will be a small drop in EGT, no change
in
power. If EGT recovers to normal lean cruise temp after a SHORT application
of carb heat, you had a trace of ice. This is common on those perfect clear
mornings. 25 years of flying the same Cessna with the 0-320 E2D engine gave
lots of familiarity with this. Paul S. Petersen, RV6A building, flying
soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vern W." <highflight1(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low RPM Harmful ? |
All engines are engineered to operate at peak levels for their
designed purpose. Operating at anything other than at those peak levels
(over OR under) introduces various non-desireable effects on the engine.
RPM, if operated within the engines limits (even at upper limits) is not a
"stressor" to the engine. Operating at low RPMs and at high torque loads is
.
When I was a "kid" (20 years old), I rode with a couple of friends quite a
bit and they typically "lugged" their Harleys along at 12 or 14 hundred RPM
s
while I always let my Sportster "sing" along at 2500 to 2800 RPM's and I
never had any mechanical failures nor carbon build up like my friends did.
In fact, that 1970 Sportster I bought new back then is still in my garage
waiting to be taken for another ride :-)
I think the best way to make a Lycoming last beyond it's 2000 hours is to
run it at 2500 to 2700 all day long and change oil every 25 hours.
But maybe that's just me.
Vern
RV7-A
On 5/23/06, Chuck Jensen wrote:
>
>
> Bryan,
>
> Intuition is a strong force....that's often wrong. While the argument
> of engine life v. operating will not be settled soon, primarily because
> there is no one single answer, Aviation Consumer did a 'study' of the
> issue and canvassed many of the engine builders and over haulers and
> looked at, in detail, peak cylinder pressures and other issues of
> running at high v. low rpm.
>
> In short, the consensus was running at higher rpm and higher hp output
> equated well with engine life for a variety of reasons, but upper most
> among them was stress on the engine. The worst power configuration was
> low rpm, high power output. As rpm went up, stress was reduced. The
> cylinder wear from more linear feet of piston travel was also
> counter-intuitive. The cylinder wear was more a function of peak
> pressures, which were lower at higher rpm; hence higher rpm operations
> reduced cylinder wear.
>
> We always need to remember, 'for every complex question, there is a
> simple answer---that's wrong.'
>
> Chuck Jensen
> I slept at a Holiday Inn last night.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bdjones1965
> > Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 5:44 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Re: Low RPM Harmful ?
> >
> >
> >
> > n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com wrote:
> > > At our EAA Chapter meeting the gossip turned to cruise rpm settings.
> One
> > > pilot, who I had thought was fairly knowledgeable, said that low rpm
> > > settings (say 2000 or so) for an extended time would harm the
> valves.
> > >
> > > I can't see his logic and didn't have the opportunity at the meeting
> to
> > > question him further about his statement. My relatively uninformed
> view
> > > is that his idea isn't on track.
> > >
> > > Opinions from engine experts would be welcome.
> >
> > I'm not an expert, but I would think he had it reversed. Higher RPM
> will
> > cause greater dynamic loads on the valve train and other moving parts.
> > Valves contact the seat when the cylinder is under compression,
> > transferring very little load anywhere except the inside of the
> cylinder.
> >
> > Lower rpm would be easier on the moving parts, but the cumbustion
> chamber
> > will see higher pressures longer. This results in higher cylinder
> > pressure and greater blowby (if sealing is an issue).
> >
> > 2 cents
> >
> > Bryan
> > Houston
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35901#35901
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
=======================
=========
=======================
=========
=======================
=========
=======================
=========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low RPM Harmful ? |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
highflight1(at)gmail.com wrote:
> All engines are engineered to operate at peak levels for their
> designed purpose. Operating at anything other than at those peak levels
> (over OR under) introduces various non-desireable effects on the engine.
>
> RPM, if operated within the engines limits (even at upper limits) is not a
> "stressor" to the engine. Operating at low RPMs and at high torque loads is
Excellent discussion topic.
But a couple of points to make:
1. RPM certainly is a factor to a mechanical device. That's why there's a red
line.
2. The are many factors in recip engine life/wear. Some involve *driving* components
(pistons, rods, crank...), and some involve *driven* components (valve
train, accessory devices...). To say low rpm ops cause the most damage is not
absolute, any more than saying high rpm ops will cause the most damage.
Personally, these (Lycomings) have such short stroke already, I don't feel too
comfortable with extended low rpm ops. Aside from OEM limits, I don't like operating
below 2300 or oversquare in any instance. 95 % of my time is spent 2350
to 2400 rpm. General - yes. But it's just my thing.
another 2 cents
Bryan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=36046#36046
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-9 Gear legs interfere with lower firewall |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Apparently this is well documented in the community but not at
all by Vans. Installing the eninge mount on my RV-9
(taildragger) I noticed that the gear mounting tybes interfere
with the lower flange of the firewall. I trimmed the firewall
back as others have, but even so I had to start eating into the
lower firewall stiffener angle to get enough clearance for the
gear leg.
I have about 1/16" clearance between the aft side of the leg
and the lower firewall angle - is that enough ? I can see that
the legs have to flex, but I'm thinking the movement this close
to the mounting tube should be minimal.
Is 16th enough clearance ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bertrv6(at)highstream.net |
| Subject: | Re: New Lycoming Engine Installation |
Quoting dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com:
>
> Has anyone drained the Preservative Oil from their new Lycoming engine
> AFTER installion of the engine on the airframe? The Service Instruction
> No 1472 says to do it PRIOR to installing the engine, but it is not
> possible to install the engine and then run it within 6 months of
> installation. Any tips?
>
> I left it in, until engine was installed and connected..
bert
rv6a flying>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bertrv6(at)highstream.net |
| Subject: | Who is this guy? |
Quoting JAMES BOWEN :
>
> It was called treetop flyer when I saw it a few weeks back and put it out on
> the list for others to see. All I know is he's wearing a UW huskies cap.
> Probably someone out here in the west.
>
> jim bowen
> lake yapps, wa.
>
> JIm: I am trying to see the video, but starts for a second or so, and then
stops..
What I do to see the complete video? what key to push?
Thanks,\\
Bert
> >From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Who is this guy?
> >Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 22:43:13 -0700
> >
> >
> >Terrific low level flying. Does anybody know who the pilot is?
> >
> >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ij1qWr99qLE
> >
> >Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 128 hours
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Read this topic online here:
> >
> >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35956#35956
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low RPM Harmful ? |
So you are telling me that the way I have been operating my engine for the
past 8.75 years is not good for it and it will not make it past 1,000 hours?
I typically cruse at full throttle 2,300 RPM. If I can run over square, I
do. One of my favorite power settings is 2,100 RPM 22 inches MAP with a 6
GPH fuel burn.
My engine has over 5,000 hours since new and over 1,850 in the RV.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,850 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
highflight1(at)gmail.com wrote:
> All engines are engineered to operate at peak levels for their
> designed purpose. Operating at anything other than at those peak levels
> (over OR under) introduces various non-desireable effects on the engine.
>
> RPM, if operated within the engines limits (even at upper limits) is not
a
> "stressor" to the engine. Operating at low RPMs and at high torque loads
is
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Who is this guy? |
Bert, here is the link that I had to the treetop flyer. Just klick on the
link and it should play.
http://www.experimentalpilots.com/anrr.wmv
I hope this works for you.
Jim Bowen
>From: bertrv6(at)highstream.net
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Who is this guy?
>Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 18:59:13 -0400
>
>
>Quoting JAMES BOWEN :
>
> >
> > It was called treetop flyer when I saw it a few weeks back and put it
>out on
> > the list for others to see. All I know is he's wearing a UW huskies cap.
> > Probably someone out here in the west.
> >
> > jim bowen
> > lake yapps, wa.
> >
> > JIm: I am trying to see the video, but starts for a second or so, and
>then
>stops..
>
> What I do to see the complete video? what key to push?
>
>Thanks,\\
>
>Bert
>
>
> > >From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: RV-List: Who is this guy?
> > >Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 22:43:13 -0700
> > >
> > >
> > >Terrific low level flying. Does anybody know who the pilot is?
> > >
> > >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ij1qWr99qLE
> > >
> > >Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 128 hours
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Read this topic online here:
> > >
> > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=35956#35956
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Harker" <dpharker(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | AFP Booster Pump and Filter on Firewall |
Working on my 7A fuselage and have the AFP BP/Filter installed per plans.
Seems like too much plumbing inside the cockpit to me. Thinking of placing
the pump and filter on the front of the firewall. Anybody done this or have
a suggested location? Thanks
Don Harker
Gurnee IL
7A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AFP Booster Pump and Filter on Firewall |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
All the instructions I've seen from AFP say DON'T put it on the
hot side of the firewall. I think heat is the major issue. If
you do put it on the firewall side you will need to install a
shield around it and cool it with a blast tube.
g
>
>
>
>
> Working on my 7A fuselage and have the AFP BP/Filter installed
> per plans.
> Seems like too much plumbing inside the cockpit to me.
> Thinking of placing
> the pump and filter on the front of the firewall. Anybody done
> this or have
> a suggested location? Thanks
>
> Don Harker
> Gurnee IL
> 7A fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AFP Booster Pump and Filter on Firewall |
Mine is in the lower right corner of the firewall. I put a cover over
the top of it and installed a blast tube just in case. It fit very
nicely behind the landing gear (-6). I've never had a problem with it
and it's easy to service the filter.
Dave
Donald Harker wrote:
>
>
>Working on my 7A fuselage and have the AFP BP/Filter installed per plans.
>Seems like too much plumbing inside the cockpit to me. Thinking of placing
>the pump and filter on the front of the firewall. Anybody done this or have
>a suggested location? Thanks
>
>Don Harker
>Gurnee IL
>7A fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AFP Booster Pump and Filter on Firewall |
| From: | "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com> |
I initially had my AFP boost pump and filter forward of the firewall and
had nothing but problems with hot fuel.
After the -7 came out with the pump and filter location near the fuel
selector, I moved mine there and it has worked much better, no more
dead-stick landings due to hot fuel. Kind of a nice thing ;-).
A carefully constructed sealed box with plenty of cool air should work,
assuming you're able to fit it in without restricting access to other
areas under the cowl.
Dw
RV-6 925hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Harker
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 6:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: AFP Booster Pump and Filter on Firewall
-->
Working on my 7A fuselage and have the AFP BP/Filter installed per
plans.
Seems like too much plumbing inside the cockpit to me. Thinking of
placing the pump and filter on the front of the firewall. Anybody done
this or have a suggested location? Thanks
Don Harker
Gurnee IL
7A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael" <cubflyr(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Low-level river flying |
Oh, my. Just some observations from an "old salt":
First of all: cool video. I may have had less head and more scenery going
by, but that's just me. Who and where: probably Washington state somewhere;
Husky hat and the area/weather. Doubt seriously Rio Grand. That's just the
song, "Tree Top Flyer". Written and sung here by Stephen Stills of CSN/Y
fame. About running drugs. Doesn't matter who the pilot is but he seems to
know his skills and airplane. He is flying here near the edge of his
envelope. The RV-4 looks older from what I can see.
Flying points: low level flight is very cool but your situational awareness
needs to be WAY up. At 160 kts things happen in a big hurry; there is not
much room for error. High G turns low down can make for a difficult day if
things don't go right. This pilot obviously has done this before and on this
stretch of river before, I would imagine. Some of his turns were a bit more
than 45 degrees; they had to be to get around stuff. You have to be familiar
with low-level flight to begin with. Things change quickly when you're in
the slot. A slight breeze coming off a ridge is not a bid deal if you have
more than 50 feet to play with but can make you go where you hadn't planned
if you are in the river bottom.
I learned to fly from a pipeline patrol pilot so most of my early hours were
50 to 100 fee off the ground. In a Cub, not fast flying RV. Low level flying
takes PRACTICE, as does everything else done in an airplane. This pilot
seems to be familiar with low-level. His military hair cut may or may not be
a give-away. Problems with low-level: there are rules against flying close
to people or people-made objects; to practice, you have to fly low-level but
you can get progressively lower as you get better. Things still happen
quickly.
Newbie's: don't try this at home. River running has several problems and
most of them are power lines. Not to mention trees and ridges. And radio
stations love to put antennas in river bottoms. You occasionally meet
another airplane coming the other way. Ask me how I know. If you have a
low-level route, you need to be familiar with it and know it from altitude
FIRST before going down on the deck. Find a flat area way out somewhere
with no obstructions or people. Fly it at altitude first. Did I mention
that? And you won't see the power lines until it is just a little too late
if you are down low and coming on them quickly. Or even slowly. And
sometimes you have to go under them to get past them. Another story. The
lines are difficult to see; you look for the power poles: they are much
easier to see. The roll in the video for his turn around: low level
aerobatics can end poorly. Don't split-S out of a roll: there isn't enough
room to recover down low.
Know your airplane. Know your area. Maintain HIGH situational awareness.
(This pilot even gets momentarily distracted before making his return run.)
Know your own limitations. Don't show off; it isn't necessary in an
airplane. Don't do this the first time with someone in the back seat. (Hey:
I saw this cool video: let's go fly the river!) Watch for power poles. You
can go under a power line if there is no where else to be but you should
have done that under controlled conditions the first time, too, and
shouldn't be in the situation that calls for that in the first place.
This reminds me of watching a snow boarding video and thinking how easy that
looks, then trying it yourself. Ouch.
Be careful out there.
IMHO, YMMV
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | AFP Booster Pump and Filter on Firewall |
I ordered the -7 boost pump/filter mount for my -6A - I like the way it finishes
up.....much better than finding a place myself......
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com>
>Sent: May 24, 2006 10:58 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: AFP Booster Pump and Filter on Firewall
>
>
>I initially had my AFP boost pump and filter forward of the firewall and
>had nothing but problems with hot fuel.
>
>After the -7 came out with the pump and filter location near the fuel
>selector, I moved mine there and it has worked much better, no more
>dead-stick landings due to hot fuel. Kind of a nice thing ;-).
>
>A carefully constructed sealed box with plenty of cool air should work,
>assuming you're able to fit it in without restricting access to other
>areas under the cowl.
>Dw
>RV-6 925hrs
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Harker
>Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 6:20 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: AFP Booster Pump and Filter on Firewall
>
>-->
>
>
>Working on my 7A fuselage and have the AFP BP/Filter installed per
>plans.
>Seems like too much plumbing inside the cockpit to me. Thinking of
>placing the pump and filter on the front of the firewall. Anybody done
>this or have a suggested location? Thanks
>
>Don Harker
>Gurnee IL
>7A fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AFP Booster Pump and Filter on Firewall |
I modified my 6 to put this where the plans state and it really is no
problem.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
265 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: AFP Booster Pump and Filter on Firewall
>
>
> All the instructions I've seen from AFP say DON'T put it on the
> hot side of the firewall. I think heat is the major issue. If
> you do put it on the firewall side you will need to install a
> shield around it and cool it with a blast tube.
>
> g
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Working on my 7A fuselage and have the AFP BP/Filter installed
>> per plans.
>> Seems like too much plumbing inside the cockpit to me.
>> Thinking of placing
>> the pump and filter on the front of the firewall. Anybody done
>> this or have
>> a suggested location? Thanks
>>
>> Don Harker
>> Gurnee IL
>> 7A fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> __g__
>
> =======================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Who is this guy? |
On 05/24 11:14, Chris W wrote:
>
> JAMES BOWEN wrote:
>
> >
> >Bert, here is the link that I had to the treetop flyer. Just klick on the
> >link and it should play.
> >
> >http://www.experimentalpilots.com/anrr.wmv
> >
> >
>
> That link gives a file not found error, I saw the video from the other
> link but you can't download the file and save it from that other page.
> Does anyone have copy of the video I can put on my computer? You never
> know when that other site will go down and the video will be gone for good.
http://rv7-a.com/videos.htm
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
Flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AFP Booster Pump and Filter on Firewall |
I have my AFP fuel pump on the front of the firewall
on my RV-4. 6 years and 1450 hrs later I have not
had a single problem. The filter is in the tunnel.
Pump is mounted to a plate that is adel clamped
to the engine mount lower tubes. I have a 1in scat
tube to it for cooling.
Stewart, RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Who is this guy? |
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm going to try and do a post to everybody here. First, what's wrong with a 45
25ft off the ground, I've done them many of times in the Fox. Haven't done one
in the rv because I ain't flying one, but I think that could be doable also
with a lot of practice. Flying in this video is very doable without military
training, u just need to fly over the area first at a higher altitude and get
use to the terrain and then fly lower and lower until you know it like the back
of your hand. As far as the computer, I've own so many that I finally have
a nice high speed, the hook up, once you experience the dsl you will never know
how you got along with dial up. The cell phone, I hate it, but I found out
a long time ago, if you don't have one on a road test(auto repair) the vehicle
that you have will break down on ya and you have to walk back to the shop.
Most the time I turn mine off. After all if you do get a call it's generally
a bad call and depressing, so I don't let that happen. It's mainly for calling
out on.
Lastely, in the northwest there is a river that is called the spokane river and
runs up to lake roosevelt, fort spokane. This is a cool gorge with river, the
flight at 20 ft. off the water is just breathtaking.
--------
kitfoxmike
kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=36252#36252
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low-level river flying |
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
very good info. To add just a bit, I would suggest doing a mountain flying seminar.
Golden rule when doing this kind of flying is slow down, way down, your
turn radius is shorted on slow flight and raised as you go faster, hence the
statement low and slow. flying low opens up a new world. I myself call anything
over 1000agl nose bleed altitude. One last note, I will not go down close
to the ground if there is turbulance below 1000 ft agl and if the winds are up
any. Also if you are the person that has to watch your guages when landing,
think again, you don't know your airplane. When you can land without any help
from the guages and rely on your own insticts than you can give it a try. Generally
this is called flying out the window.
--------
kitfoxmike
kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=36259#36259
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AFP Booster Pump and Filter on Firewall |
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
I can relate to the desire to avoid all the plumbing. Rather than do all
the aluminum tube bending, I used various AN fittings (Earls Performance
or similar) for the AFP pump (on the cool side of the firewall) to make the
turns along with an appropriate flexible hose. Ok, the cost of the
fittings did add up. It was easy to put together after that though, and I
avoided prolonged bouts of cussing that I am prone to.
Something to consider anyway
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AFP Booster Pump and Filter on Firewall |
About using AN fittings in the fuel system, I ran across this note in the
Airflow Performance installation manual:
Apendix A, page A-20, Rev. A. photo:
"Care must be taken to avoid the use of 90 degree fittings on the suction
side of the fuel pump on high horse power applications. The more correct way
would be to use a straight bulkhead fitting and a full flow 90 degree hose
end to eliminate flow pressure drop."
A retired mechanical engineer friend told me that way back when he was in
school, his hydraulics instructor told him that three elbows is equal to a
plug. It was meant to be tongue-in-cheek, but the idea was that elbows
reduce flow in a way that bent tubing does not. Of course it will all depend
on tubing size, horsepower, and a few other considerations, but this is why
I went through a lot of tubing to get the bends right for the fuel valve and
boost pump. I also used a wing root mounted Andair gascolator with my AFP
system, which probably wasn't a good idea in hindsight. I did talk to AFP
about it and he thought it was a wasted effort, but acceptable.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Baffles finished!
I can relate to the desire to avoid all the plumbing. Rather than do all
the aluminum tube bending, I used various AN fittings (Earls Performance
or similar) for the AFP pump (on the cool side of the firewall) to make the
turns along with an appropriate flexible hose. Ok, the cost of the
fittings did add up. It was easy to put together after that though, and I
avoided prolonged bouts of cussing that I am prone to.
Something to consider anyway
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
Excessive RPM or Pressure will catastrophically destroy any engine
eventually. But if you had to choose one over the other I would go for RPM
to get HP as that causes more cooling for the HP gained.
That said most Lycs and Continentals are rated for continuous HP at what's
listed in the TC. But there's no requirement or correlation to that power
setting and the suggested TBO.
Generally TBOs are based upon an average of 75% power with variations in RPM
throughout the testing. That doesn't mean the engine can't operate
continuously at max power, it just means that if you do this it probably
won't make TBO.
That said, changing the oil a lot and flying a lot are the two best things
you can do for your engine life as both remove or prevent moisture. Moisture
causes micro pits which does the most of anything to wear out your engine.
And that is straight out of about nine different aviation engine
manufacturer and aviation oil manufacturer reps mouths over the years.
So, go fly further or more often at 75% power for the same cost as flying
less at 100% power and have more fun making sure your engine doesn't wear
out.
It's kinda like a sale, spend money to save money....
;{)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Low-level river flying |
One more point to consider about power lines. They are "Structures" so
legally you have to be 500 feet from them.
I love the low flying and as a Highway Patrol Pilot in the California pilot
I have done a lot of it. As stated above - you can go under the power lines
, BUT learn under the high part of the span . > I didn't say that !!!
Bob Olds
RV-4 , N1191X
Charleston, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Who is this guy? |
Sorry about that. I tried the link right before I added it to the email I
sent it with. It was ok at that time. Your right, now it's gone.
Jim Bowen
>From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Who is this guy?
>Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 12:49:19 -0400
>
>
>On 05/24 11:14, Chris W wrote:
>
> >
> > JAMES BOWEN wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >Bert, here is the link that I had to the treetop flyer. Just klick on
>the
> > >link and it should play.
> > >
> > >http://www.experimentalpilots.com/anrr.wmv
> > >
> > >
> >
> > That link gives a file not found error, I saw the video from the other
> > link but you can't download the file and save it from that other page.
> > Does anyone have copy of the video I can put on my computer? You never
> > know when that other site will go down and the video will be gone for
>good.
>
>http://rv7-a.com/videos.htm
>
>--
>Walter Tondu
>http://www.rv7-a.com
>Flying!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
I have been using Panel Planner and have not been happy with it. It has
a lot of trouble with drawing text strings correctly and in the right
place. It probably reflects my particular experience with computer cad
software, but I also don't much like the user interface either.
epanelbuilder looks interesting since it claims to be cross paltform
compatible: I could use it with my Linux system and could thus stop
using the acursed Windows, as panel planner is the only thing I ever use
Windows for anyway.
So.... Can any one advise me if epanelplanner actually works? Is it
quirky? Can I get a useful output form from it (like autocad or some
such)? Can I get printouts of x-y coordinates of things? Does it mangle
text?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking For Airport Home - Columbia, SC |
| From: | "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com> |
My wife and I are moving to the Columbia, SC area in July and would like to buy
a house near an airport or grass strip. Does anyone have any suggestions or
leads? We would prefer to live on the northwest side of town. We've already
been looking at Whiteplains Plantation, but it looks like prices in that residential
airpark have soared in the last few years.
Thanks for any ideas.
Daniel Snow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Clark" <jclarkmail(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking For Airport Home - Columbia, SC |
Yes prices have gone up over time at Whiteplains. Probably in part due to
the fact that it is almost full now.
There is no (known) airpark on the NW (Lake area) part of town. I live in
that area an wish there was one. :-)
Whiteplains is the closest airpark. There is one to the south called
"Do-Little Field". It is a grass strip and is a bit farther away.
Good luck in your move! Keep in touch with us at EAA242.
James
On 5/25/06, Snow, Daniel A. wrote:
>
>
> My wife and I are moving to the Columbia, SC area in July and would like
> to buy a house near an airport or grass strip. Does anyone have any
> suggestions or leads? We would prefer to live on the northwest side of
> town. We've already been looking at Whiteplains Plantation, but it looks
> like prices in that residential airpark have soared in the last few years
.
>
> Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Daniel Snow
>
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
>
--
This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
james(at)nextupventures.com .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark & Lisa" <marknlisa(at)hometel.com> |
| Subject: | Helicopter Pilots |
Shouldn't you have said, "Helicopters we don't have to worry about his
though... whopwhopwhopwhopwhopwhop...?"
Paul Besing said:
> Helicopters we don't have to worry about this
> though...nanananananana...
Mark Sletten
Legacy FG N828LM
http://www.legacyfgbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Heavy Wing Experiment |
I tried eliminating my heavy left wing by increasing the angle of incidence
of the left wingtip. The theory was advanced by Scott Risan that a change
out at the tip has lots of leverage to affect roll trim. This contradicted
a theory advanced by Gus Funnel that wingtips contribute nothing to lift so
changes will not affect roll trim. Anyway, I went ahead and split the
trailing edge of the wingtip and drilled out the rivets holding the aft
wingtip rib in place. Then I flexed the now limp trailing edge 1/2" further
down. Happily thinking this would solve my problem, maybe even be way too
much, I removed the aileron trim tab I had been using to avoid large roll
corrections opposite to my original problem, secured everything with duct
tape and a couple of rivets & went flying. Bottom line: No change. Gus
wins.
Dave Reel - RV8A now having it's aileron trailing edge squeezed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder |
Tom...
The ePanel Builder does not output CAD or coordinates at all... As you
said, Panel Planner does not do this very well because in general it is a
very hard thing to do automatically...
The difference with the ePanel Builder is that once you have figured out the
final design you really want, you work with one of our partners to get your
CAD work done. This way there is a human involved in the final layout and
CAD work and you can be absolutely sure it is right... The ePanel Builder
has a collaboration tool that allows you and the CAD guy to work on the
panel online...together...at the same time to ensure you both know exactly
what the final product should be... Furthermore you can take it to the next
level and have your panel build for using the same collaboration tools...
The goal was to try to illuminate the errors and problems associated with
the Panel Planner, and the only way I see to do that is put a human back
into the mix... If you use ePanel Builder to design your panel and then one
of our partners to either have your CAD work done, or your panel built for
you, you can be sure it will be exactly what you want...
By the way, I am working on getting all of the pricing updated on all the
products in the next couple of weeks...
-Bill VonDane
www.epanelbuilder.com
www.creativair.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 11:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: epanelbuilder
I have been using Panel Planner and have not been happy with it. It has
a lot of trouble with drawing text strings correctly and in the right
place. It probably reflects my particular experience with computer cad
software, but I also don't much like the user interface either.
epanelbuilder looks interesting since it claims to be cross paltform
compatible: I could use it with my Linux system and could thus stop
using the acursed Windows, as panel planner is the only thing I ever use
Windows for anyway.
So.... Can any one advise me if epanelplanner actually works? Is it
quirky? Can I get a useful output form from it (like autocad or some
such)? Can I get printouts of x-y coordinates of things? Does it mangle
text?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low-level river flying |
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
Gummi,
So true, I responded so fast that I left out the need to maintain va and above
on turns. When I went through a mountain flying seminar and did the flight instruction
I got the fella that had over 20,000 hrs. way cool, we did all kinds
of stuff in the mountains, one of which was to try a high speed turn and a turn
at va. Really inlightening, we were in a small area and it was very appearent
that the high speed turn was not going to make it.
--------
kitfoxmike
kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=36373#36373
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low-level river flying |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Now this is flying!! Quite a few bayous and a few rivers in my part of the country
that work nicely for this type of flying. As for speed, slow is not what
you want when flying like this. Too fast reduces reaction time. Too slow, the
maneuverability is reduced and proximity to stall too close. 120-140 mph depending
on the nature of the turns.
Reminds me of an old Cub flying expression. Accidents experience while flying
slow will only barely kill you.
Please hold the warnings. I know the FARs, I know my plane and I know the geography.
I also know power lines are strung across, sometimes not easily seen.
I never fly down a river or bayou cold. I know the area and where the obstacles
are. If boats or people are on present, I'll pull up well clear.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=36378#36378
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: epanelbuilder |
Agreed, Bill. When I did both of my panels, Steve
Davis cut them for me, and I had Panel Planner the
first time around. He flat out told me to not send
him the CAD files, because they would have to be re
worked anyway.
A screen shot or printout from epanelbuilder should be
all that is needed for a competent panel cutter to do
the job...they have most of the databases of the
instrument demensions already, so it's just a matter
of taking the instruments you selected out of their
library of instruments and getting them placed
correctly. (Ok, not that simple, but you get the
idea)
Anyway, I wouldn't trust any program to output a CAD
file to cut a nice piece of metal without some sort of
human interface...too many variables there. Just have
them build it from the layout tool which epanelbuilder
was designed to do.
For those of you that would like to see my new panel
cut by Steve Davis, go to www.mykitlog.com/pbesing and
click on the panel cutting.
Paul Besing
--- Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>
> Tom...
>
> The ePanel Builder does not output CAD or
> coordinates at all... As you
> said, Panel Planner does not do this very well
> because in general it is a
> very hard thing to do automatically...
>
> The difference with the ePanel Builder is that once
> you have figured out the
> final design you really want, you work with one of
> our partners to get your
> CAD work done. This way there is a human involved
> in the final layout and
> CAD work and you can be absolutely sure it is
> right... The ePanel Builder
> has a collaboration tool that allows you and the CAD
> guy to work on the
> panel online...together...at the same time to ensure
> you both know exactly
> what the final product should be... Furthermore you
> can take it to the next
> level and have your panel build for using the same
> collaboration tools...
>
> The goal was to try to illuminate the errors and
> problems associated with
> the Panel Planner, and the only way I see to do that
> is put a human back
> into the mix... If you use ePanel Builder to design
> your panel and then one
> of our partners to either have your CAD work done,
> or your panel built for
> you, you can be sure it will be exactly what you
> want...
>
> By the way, I am working on getting all of the
> pricing updated on all the
> products in the next couple of weeks...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> www.epanelbuilder.com
> www.creativair.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 11:06 PM
> Subject: RV-List: epanelbuilder
>
>
>
>
> I have been using Panel Planner and have not been
> happy with it. It has
> a lot of trouble with drawing text strings correctly
> and in the right
> place. It probably reflects my particular
> experience with computer cad
> software, but I also don't much like the user
> interface either.
>
> epanelbuilder looks interesting since it claims to
> be cross paltform
> compatible: I could use it with my Linux system and
> could thus stop
> using the acursed Windows, as panel planner is the
> only thing I ever use
> Windows for anyway.
>
> So.... Can any one advise me if epanelplanner
> actually works? Is it
> quirky? Can I get a useful output form from it
> (like autocad or some
> such)? Can I get printouts of x-y coordinates of
> things? Does it mangle
> text?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
Ahh..thanks for mentioning power lines, Bob...a helo
pilot's worst nightmare, literally. I've had dreams
at night where I'm underneath a whole network of wires
and can't get out! Wake up in a cold sweat realizing
it was just a dream.
Yes, wires, wires, wires. I didn't mention it because
I take it for granted because I am ALWAYS looking for
them. Heck, we call out wires when they are passing
below us by 500 feet. If you don't look for them all
the time, sometimes they are hard to spot, depending
on the angle that you are to them. I have flown
through some canyons that had wires stretched
accrossed them. I knew they were there, but couldn't
see them until I got just about on top of them.
The more I think of this thread, I think that it would
be a shame for someone to think, "Hey, this low level
flight sounds cool". Yes, it is really cool. But
very dangerous if you aren't completely situationally
aware. I do it alot...in the day and at night, with a
little green picture strapped to one eye. And let me
tell you, I never get comfortable. As soon as I get
100% comfortable with that type of flying, that's when
I quit because my confidence level has exceeded my
abilities.
To re post what others have said...be careful out
there...this post could be a dangerous thing to some
people if not taken seriously.
And one other thing...the 500 foot thing...don't
forget there is an FAA catch all that is mentioned
just before the 500 foot thing..."Anywere that a power
unit were to fail that you could make a safe landing
without due hazard to persons or propety on the
surface". That's a blanket statement, and could mean
5,000 feet. If your engine quits, and you land into a
fence, the FAA can get you for this catch all, even if
you were 500 feet from any structure.
Paul Besing
--- Oldsfolks(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> One more point to consider about power lines. They
> are "Structures" so
> legally you have to be 500 feet from them.
> I love the low flying and as a Highway Patrol Pilot
> in the California pilot
> I have done a lot of it. As stated above - you can
> go under the power lines
> , BUT learn under the high part of the span . > I
> didn't say that !!!
>
> Bob Olds
> RV-4 , N1191X
> Charleston, Arkansas
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low-level river flying |
| From: | "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com> |
always keep a safe margine, all this has made me think and come to think about
it, most of this flying and meneuvering is covered in private pilot training,
at least it was for me. ground reference meneuvers and steep turns, etc. Most
of the low flying is just the same but closer to the ground and next to trees.
My advice is if you can't maintain exactly the altitude you are flying or
can't do ground reference meneuvers than grab an instructor and go fly. If we
are strickly talking rv's here and you have been not flying while building your
machine, and your moving from a cessna to the rv, my advice is get some instruction
in an rv before flying the rv at any altitude or circumstance.
--------
kitfoxmike
kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=36386#36386
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low-level river flying |
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
I have no desire for that type of flight. I'm sure it is a rush, but I equate it
with the guys going down the freeway on their crotch rockets at 90 mph doing
wheelies. It's a thrill until one mistake or something unexpected happens and
you're pretty much dead. To each his own, but my life is worth more than a cheap
thrill.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=36387#36387
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Helicopter Pilots |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Rotor heads always say nanananana! Much grins low leveling in a
chopper, just takes a good visual recon all the way down to flight level
10'. Skids in the trees-----
Jim Nelson
(CW4 rotor head retired)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <joplin1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low-level river flying |
This has been a great review on Maximum Performance Flying. Top
performers like Bob Hoover nibble at the edges of the envelope so often
that if becomes second nature. But you need to be perfectly coordinated
as you approach that critical AOA (i.e. no skid or slip), or the
airplane will bite you in the butt and snap roll ... not a good outcome
close to the ground. The rate at which you apply back pressure on the
stick is just as important. Too quick and you will tend to overshoot
that optimum AOA. Too slow and your turn radius will increase.
Back to that terrific video. We all love to get down in the weeds, but
it's a roll of the dice. You won't see wires and you won't see ducks
coming around the bend in time to avoid them! The Koreans and
Vietnamese put juicy targets down in narrow canyons. A friend of mine
hit a cable dead center with an F-80 but was able to limp home. It
ripped back through the gun bay and thankfully snapped before it reached
his cockpit. If he had been turning, it would have grabbed a wing. If
he had been a foot lower, it would have taken off his head and vertical
stab.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Gummo
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Low-level river flying
I hate too but I have to disagree but slow is not the way to decrease
your
turn radius. As an Air to Air and Air to Ground Instructor (F-4G) in
the
military, there is a magic speed for turning your aircraft. We called
it
"corner velocity" or Va (I am not very good with V speeds in the
military we
used names for the various speeds). It is the min speed that you can
pull
the max G. Therefore, as you increase your speed from the stall speed
toward the Va speed several things happen: your available G INCREASES,
your
rate of turn (degrees/sec) INCREASES, your stall margin INCREASES and
your
turn radius DECREASES. Now this only works if you use ALL the
AVAILABLE G.
Here is where AOA indicator helps alot. For my plane with a 60 Knot
Indicated Stall speed (no flap at gross weight),
my corner velocity is 147 knots indicated at 6 G's. (NOTE: all speeds
are
indicated, not true)
I have equations and tables but my email program won't put them into a
message for the RV-List.
So email me directly and I will send you a word doc attachment with
the
info.
Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
Wild Weasel #1573
USAF, Major Retired
F-4G Instructor Pilot
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Andair Fuel Selector For Sale |
| From: | "DanBish" <danbish(at)norwalktucson.com> |
Hi All,
Sorry to butt in.... but I've got an Andair fuel selector up for auction on eBay
for anyone that's interested - model #FS20x5-F. It's a 3-valve version for 3/8"
tubing, with 1/4"npt female inputs. Brand new, never used. Details on site.
I've got to order one that will fit in the smaller console of the Europa I'm
building. I'm told this one is just right for an RV or similar build. They go
for $220 and the current bid price is $96.
Just put the auction number, 4643331420, in the search field and it'll take you
right there.
Thanks,
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=36394#36394
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low RPM Harmful Re: Engine Life |
Engine life if based on DIS-USE. Engines flown everyday, hard, medium or soft will
make TBO and have less maintenance issues. Engines that SIT collect dust and
RUST will not make TBO no matter how much you BABY IT. Don't baby your engine.
There are so so so many factors besides RPM that control the life of an engine.
I recommend the book by sacramento sky ranch, Lyc engineering manual. I
am not saying I fly at 2,700 rpm all day, in fact I throttle/prop back to 25 square
for climb. I have been told by many to leave it WOT full high RPM from take
off to climb and let the altitude take care of MAP. Its a habit to go 25"
and than maintain that with the throttle as long as possible. RPM wise 2,700 is
just more noise. HOWEVER if you are trying to get to altitude faster WOT & RPM
makes sense. Obviously for cruise if you have a C/S prop lower RPM is just
less noise and actually better efficiency from the props aerodynamic stand point
(more efficency).
Low RPM is NOT harmful if the Temps and Pressures are in the green, period. There
is a practical limit on how low you can go RPM wise and still make headway.
At altitude you may need the RPM to make power and airspeed. A side benifit
is lower RPM increases prop efficency, which means more of the HP your engine
makes gets turned into thrust. As far as low RPM and MAP that is a differnt
topic.........
Yes you can run OVER square. Just look at FAA APPROVED flight manuals for Lycoming
powered planes. You see plenty of over square power settings. Over square
is a throw back to some radial engines.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/keyReprints/operation/powerSettings.html
AND SECOND
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/keyReprints/operation/oldWivesTales.html
(second old wives tail)
One caveat is this chart is 65% POWER. Keep it simple get a manual for your engine
and follow it. Using higher MAP and lower RPM has advantages.
I usually fly at altitude so M.P. is usually lower anyway. However when given
the opportunity of two combos of RPM/MAP which produce the same power, one being
OVER SQUARE. I'll pick over square.
Every time I take off I am over square, 2700/29".
Just give lycoming a call and they can reassure you. They have run engines on
test stands for 10's of thousands of hours like this.
There is no need to get with all up with the urban legend, rumor, fear and prejudice
about it. The data is out there.
Cheers George
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
| Subject: | low speed low alt |
The other major factor with low speed is Murphy.
That SOB will wait until you are flat out of energy before he turns your
engine off.
At all times you should be able to do a no engine pull up to 500 ft agl (or
whatever min you like) so you can see a spot to crash into. If the turns are
too tight to maintain this speed then don't go into the slot in that
section.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi folks,
I am finishing up my fuel tanks and ran into a couple of questions. The
vent line comes out of the inboard rib with a 90 degree turn. Which way should
that angle face? I saw one picture on (Dan Checkaway's site?) that had it
facing forward and slightly down, paralleling the curvature of the leading
edge. I asked Van's and they were pretty vague. Thoughts? I am a little
unclear as to where that eventually gets attached.
Is anyone putting proseal along the course of the vent line where it passes
through the ribs? I couldn't see any overwhelming reason to do so, unless it
would reduce rattle or chaffing.
When you put the fittings connecting the vent tube, fuel pickup, etc
together, there are pictures of folks prosealing the outside. Do you also put
the
proseal in the threads as a thread lock? How tight does one make these
connections. I am not sure if there is a torque spec. If so, how do you measure
it? I would think just good and tight with proseal as a thread locker (and
safety-wired on the fuel pickup).
I am also finished with the leading edges and was thinking about riveting
them on. Any reason that I need to have the tanks completely done before I do
that?
Thanks in advance for the usual good advice.
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Wings (tanks)
San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Plumbing |
> I am finishing up my fuel tanks and ran into a couple of questions. The
> vent line comes out of the inboard rib with a 90 degree turn. Which way
> should
> that angle face? I saw one picture on (Dan Checkaway's site?) that had
> it
> facing forward and slightly down, paralleling the curvature of the
> leading
> edge. I asked Van's and they were pretty vague. Thoughts? I am a
> little
> unclear as to where that eventually gets attached.
Use an angle that won't make it difficult to connect the thing. It's vague
because there's no hard and fast requirement for anything specific.
Literally, don't sweat it! As long as it's not pointed up at the flange of
the root rib & skin, you won't have an issue.
> Is anyone putting proseal along the course of the vent line where it
> passes
> through the ribs? I couldn't see any overwhelming reason to do so, unless
> it
> would reduce rattle or chaffing.
No, I didn't. If you ever needed to get the vent tube out for some reason,
you'd be shooting yourself in the foot. That said, I don't see any reason
why you'd need to get it out.
> When you put the fittings connecting the vent tube, fuel pickup, etc
> together, there are pictures of folks prosealing the outside. Do you also
> put the
> proseal in the threads as a thread lock? How tight does one make these
> connections. I am not sure if there is a torque spec. If so, how do you
> measure
> it? I would think just good and tight with proseal as a thread locker
> (and
> safety-wired on the fuel pickup).
I didn't use any proseal on any threads that I can recall. I did proseal
all over the bulkhead nuts on bulkhead fittings, and did make a fillet
around every pass-through where something passed through exterior surfaces.
Put it this way...now that the fuel tank SB has reared its can-o-worms head,
if you had completed a tank and had used proseal on the threads, you would
be HATIN' it. Just my 2 cents. It's bad enough (good enough?) with proseal
AROUND the fitting, let alone in the threads. Imho.
> I am also finished with the leading edges and was thinking about riveting
> them on. Any reason that I need to have the tanks completely done before
> I do
> that?
Not that I'm aware of.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (914 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael" <cubflyr(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Bolt torque for prop extension |
I had to replace my alternator belt after almost 1000 hours (it was still
good but how long do you trust a rubber tree?) and, of course, had to remove
the starter ring. For the life of me I can't find the torque for the bolts
that secure the prop extension spool to the engine. As I remember, it is
25ft/lb but would like to know for sure.
Thanks!!
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
967 hours; not enough......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
There was a notice in the latest RV-ator about George Goff's RV-6A first
flight. He's in Missouri City, TX. Does any one know how I can contact
George? I want to ask him about his prop. He's never posted to the list,
apparently because I couldn't find him in the archives.
Thanks,
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Landoll Balancer |
Decided to put one of Mark Landoll's 12 pound weights on my RV-4 with an
0-320. Tried to contact him at _landollskydoll2001(at)yahoo.com_
(mailto:landollskydoll2001(at)yahoo.com) where I have in the past. No joy. Anyone have a
different email address for him or have one of these critters for sale?
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
This was live on the internet so it can't be a secret...
RV White Pages: ENTIRE LIST (100 Person Increments) ...(2040) listings ... Missouri City. Goff,George V. 281.499.8822. 6A. FL. N626DD ...www.vansairforce.net/db/RVWPcode/rvwp_100.asp?offset=1700 - 103k - Cached - More from this site - Save
Untitled Document
... RV White Pages: Last Name A-G (100 Person Increments) ...(739) listings ...
Missouri City. Goff,George V. 281.499.8822. 6A. FL. N626DD ...
www.vansairforce.net/db/RVWPcode/rvwp_A-G.asp?offset=600 - 104k - Cached - More from this site - Save
sarg314 wrote:
There was a notice in the latest RV-ator about George Goff's RV-6A first
flight. He's in Missouri City, TX. Does any one know how I can contact
George? I want to ask him about his prop. He's never posted to the list,
apparently because I couldn't find him in the archives.
Thanks,
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
---------------------------------
with Voice.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Thrills |
>I have no desire for that type of flight. I'm sure it is a rush, but I
>equate it with the guys going down the freeway on their crotch rockets at
>90 mph doing wheelies. It's a thrill until one mistake or something
>unexpected happens and you're pretty much dead. To each his own, but my
>life is worth more than a cheap thrill.
Yep, that is why my airshow specialty and trademark is a low speed high
altitude pass. I don't even have to do it inverted, at 10,000 feet AGL
spectators can't tell the difference!
I have never flown in a canyon below the treetops at 160KTS, and I promise
I won't do it again.
On the other hand my American Idol, Patty Wagstaff, says she loves to fly
low level aerobatics, and never misses an opportunity to do it.
Regardless, I do not consider flying my RV a cheap thrill, on a Whitewater
River Raft Guides salary, flying is not cheap!!!! As a professional guide,
I get paid to perform what some may call a "Thrill". And based upon my
salary, yep, it is cheap!
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Thrills |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
[quote="panamared3(at)brier.net"]
> I have no desire for that type of flight. I'm sure it is a rush, but I
> equate it with the guys going down the freeway on their crotch rockets at
> 90 mph doing wheelies. It's a thrill until one mistake or something
> unexpected happens and you're pretty much dead. To each his own, but my life
is worth more than a cheap thrill.
>
I didn't want to respond, but since someone else already did, what the heck.
Some would say those who fly "home-made airplanes" are seeking a cheap thrill!
Each and every pilot has different comfort and ability levels. Please don't judge
those of us who fly more aggresively, and I won't judge those of you who fly
the way you do.
Bryan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=36663#36663
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: > RE: Re: Low-level river flying |
If something on your helicopter hasn't broken --- It's about to !!!
There are no antique helicopter shows !!
Bob Olds
RV-4 , N1191X
Charleston, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Cruise Prop O320 |
Anyone using a Sensenich 70CM()S9-0-81 Cruise Prop with an O320/160 hp
on an RV 7 0r RV 9?
Darrell
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Cruise Prop O320 |
Darrel,
I asked the same qeustion and awhile back and this was the response I got
from a guy that was running an 79" on a 160hp 6A.
"I recently upgraded my 150hp motor to 160hp and have about 30 hours
since the rebuild. I started out with the 150hp prop (77") as I was only
turning 2150 on take off and 2470 cruise. However, that went up to 2350
on take off and well over 2650 cruise (could not use full throttle as
the prop is limited to 2600 rpm). I now have about 10 hours on the 79"
prop. I was measuring some numbers the other day - I can pull about 2630
at 5500' giving about 150 kt indicated (around 170 kt true), although
that is 30 rpm over the limit. At 2470 I get 137 kt indicated (around
155 true). I am thinking about getting an extra inch of pitch added to
the prop, but might stay where I am.
On climb I'm getting over 1000 fpm at about 1000 ft on a hot Texas day
(low 90s) at about 1500lbs - my CHTs get hot quickly so I can't sustain
that for very long. On the runway I am now getting 2300 rpm, so am
loathe to increase the pitch more as at 2150 the climb rate was really
poor (sometimes less than 500 fpm). However I might go for an additional
inch of pitch (to 80"), I would have thought 81" would really be a
cruise prop and not yield very good climb performance. I think I am
ready to sacrifice a couple of knots of cruise speed for better climb."
I resently put the 80" on my 160HP 6A and this is the results I am
experiencing as noted in an earlier posting..
"I recently put a new 80 pitch Sensenich propeller on my 160HP RV6A. I made
a cross country trip and here are my initial results. At 8500 at
approximately 60 degrees F, I was indicating 158 mph, 2530 rpms at WOT and
1680 lbs. After doing the math that wound up being 185 mph TAS and the
ground speed according to my GPS was 195 mph which would be about right as
there should have been a slight 5-8 knot tail wind component according to
Dans web sites wind calculator. After climbing to 9500 the results were
still 158 mph indicated, 58deg F, 2500 rpm at WOT which works out to 188 mph
TAS, 197 mph GPS ground speed. Again with the expected tail winds this was
right on. This is the first time I have been able to fly at WOT and the CHTs
and the EGTs were much more uniform.
All in all the new prop is doing exactly as advertised. Note: These are not
super picky test pilot figures, just what was noted during a flight from a
fly-in with my lovely bride taking notes"
Hope this helps
Scott
RV6A
160hp
>From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV-List
>Subject: RV-List: Cruise Prop O320
>Date: Sat, 27 May 2006 09:35:48 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Anyone using a Sensenich 70CM()S9-0-81 Cruise Prop with an O320/160 hp
>on an RV 7 0r RV 9?
>
>Darrell
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lowell lemay" <llemay1(at)austin.rr.com> |
Problem: Have a nice RV-7 whose brakes heat up on landing with a no
brake rollout and braking used only to stop at the hangar. Very hard to
move by pulling on the prop on level ground for about 10 minutes. Then
all is well and it rolls freely. Have 88 hours on the airplane and
brake pads show no abnormal wear. Any suggestions??
llemay1(at)austin.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
Sounds like you might have some air in the brake lines. Try and bleed them and
you want to do this from the bottom up.
Darrell
lowell lemay wrote:
Problem: Have a nice RV-7 whose brakes heat up on landing with a no
brake rollout and braking used only to stop at the hangar. Very hard to
move by pulling on the prop on level ground for about 10 minutes. Then
all is well and it rolls freely. Have 88 hours on the airplane and
brake pads show no abnormal wear. Any suggestions??
llemay1(at)austin.rr.com
---------------------------------
better.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
Idea #1 -- may have to add a "return spring" on your master cylinders.
Wonder if there's not enough springback built into the master cylinder.
Heard of that in a few cases, solved with a return spring. Get down in
there by the pedals, push 'em, and see if you need to pull them back for the
master cylinder pushrod to come back out, or if they stay "stuck in."
Both sides or just one side? If it's both sides, I'd be inclined to say
it's gotta be the springback thing.
Idea #2 -- could be gunk between the piston & caliper? If the pedals and
master cylinder pushrods are springing back just fine, then I'd drain the
fluid from the brakes and remove the pistons from the calipers. Could be
that there's some crud in there causing the piston to stick. Probably not,
but worth checking if nothing else pans out.
Just a couple of guesses. Best of luck. See you up at SQI & OSH for
formation?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (920 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "lowell lemay" <llemay1(at)austin.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 4:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: BRAKES
>
> Problem: Have a nice RV-7 whose brakes heat up on landing with a no
> brake rollout and braking used only to stop at the hangar. Very hard to
> move by pulling on the prop on level ground for about 10 minutes. Then
> all is well and it rolls freely. Have 88 hours on the airplane and
> brake pads show no abnormal wear. Any suggestions??
>
> llemay1(at)austin.rr.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
They are supposed to run at 0 clearance.
Perhaps the linings are a little thicker than
usual. It's not uncommon to add shims between
the anvil and the puck housing. As linings wear
you can remove the shims.
Stewart RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
One other possiblity. The bolts that the brake patals pivot on may be to
tight. I know of at least one person who had this problem. They need to be
rather loose, that is why they are locked with cotter pins. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lowell lemay
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 4:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: BRAKES
Problem: Have a nice RV-7 whose brakes heat up on landing with a no
brake rollout and braking used only to stop at the hangar. Very hard to
move by pulling on the prop on level ground for about 10 minutes. Then
all is well and it rolls freely. Have 88 hours on the airplane and
brake pads show no abnormal wear. Any suggestions??
llemay1(at)austin.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael" <cubflyr(at)comcast.net> |
Is this airplane new to you? There is an ancient issue with "old" return
springs on the master cylinders. The "old" ones were too short and new
replacements were sent to you from Van's for free. Was this done? It may be
in the log books but probably not. Search the archives. There are certain
lengths the correct and incorrect springs are. This measurement can be done
with the springs in place, as I recall. Having brakes that work is a nice
thing.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Reiche <charlieray(at)optonline.net> |
Check a few things here.
bleed the system up from the bottom.
take brakes off the mount and see if the way your hose or line runs to the
caliper causes it to jam sideways in the slide pins. (loosen line and
tighten it so there is no sideload when you slide the caliper in the
mounting holes.)
polish slide pins with scotchbrite.
These are parker brakes right?
we havent even gotten to the fuselage yet, but im a mechanic.
Charles
----- Original Message -----
From: "lowell lemay" <llemay1(at)austin.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 7:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: BRAKES
>
> Problem: Have a nice RV-7 whose brakes heat up on landing with a no
> brake rollout and braking used only to stop at the hangar. Very hard to
> move by pulling on the prop on level ground for about 10 minutes. Then
> all is well and it rolls freely. Have 88 hours on the airplane and
> brake pads show no abnormal wear. Any suggestions??
>
> llemay1(at)austin.rr.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
Charles,
I had forgotten about this issue of the caliper binding on the slide pins due
to the brake fluid line side-load pressure. I had that happen on an RV7A about
9 months ago. The brakes did heat up a little from this condition while in taxi
mode. I believe we were dealing with the left brake. A quick dis-assembly,
cleanup and reassembly with a very light film of brake caliper pin grease and
we were done. We did go ahead and bleed both brakes at the same time since we
had a little grime on our hands.
Darrell
Charles Reiche wrote:
Check a few things here.
bleed the system up from the bottom.
take brakes off the mount and see if the way your hose or line runs to the
caliper causes it to jam sideways in the slide pins. (loosen line and
tighten it so there is no side-load when you slide the caliper in the
mounting holes.)
polish slide pins with scotchbrite.
These are parker brakes right?
we havent even gotten to the fuselage yet, but im a mechanic.
Charles
----- Original Message -----
From: "lowell lemay"
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2006 7:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: BRAKES
>
> Problem: Have a nice RV-7 whose brakes heat up on landing with a no
> brake rollout and braking used only to stop at the hangar. Very hard to
> move by pulling on the prop on level ground for about 10 minutes. Then
> all is well and it rolls freely. Have 88 hours on the airplane and
> brake pads show no abnormal wear. Any suggestions??
>
> llemay1(at)austin.rr.com
>
>
>
---------------------------------
better.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
Most likely is the pedal rocker pivots are too stiff and the small
compensating valve spring in the master cyl can't open, thereby pushing the
pedal back that last bit. (These are NOT the pedal swing pivots which allow
for rudder movement) After a bit they either bleed down, or the system cools
and reduces fluid pressure.
Check by getting the brakes to the stiff condition then pull back on the
tops of the pedals to force them fully back and see if that loosens the
brakes. (This also assumes the pedal rocker action has enough swing
clearence to let the master cyls fully extend.)
If this is the case the best fix is to loosen those pivots some as another
spring is something that could break/jam/whatever at the wrong time.
Air in the line would not cause this as the compensating port allows for air
or fluid to return immediately. Is also not likely to be gunk in the caliper
as that would probably not get better after a few minutes. The same would
also be true for the too tight pins that retain the floating calipers.
The one other option is the matco style parking brake valve could be not
fully opening both poppets thereby acting like one way check valves, if one
is installed. If the above test doesn't make it better remove the pants and
get them stiff, then open the bleeder for a tad and see if they loosen. This
will tell you if the P brake is holding the pressure on. (you could also try
working the P-brake valve when they are stiff and see if that suddenly
loosens them.)
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Two New Email Lists at Matronics and Wiki Reminder! |
Dear Listers,
I have added two new email Lists to the Matronics Line up today. These include
a Continental engine List and a Lightning aircraft List:
==========
continental-list(at)matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Continental-List
Everything related to the Continental aircraft engine. Sky's the limit on discussions
here.
==========
==========
lightning-list(at)matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Lightning-List
This is an exciting new design from Arion Aircraft LLC in Shelbyville Tennessee. Pete Krotje has a very nice web site on the aircraft that can be found here: http://www.arionaircraft.com/
==========
Also, if you haven't checked out the new Matronics Aircraft Wiki, swing by and
have a look. Remember, a Wiki is only as good as the content that the members
put into it. Have a look over some of the sections, and if you've got some interesting
or useful, please add it to the Wiki! Its all about YOU! :-) The
URL for the Matronics Wiki is:
http://wiki.matronics.com
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Patterson" <kbob(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RE: 81" pitch on O-320 |
I'll throw in my 2 cents, and some numbers, since I'm running a 6A with 81"
pitch.
Couple of specs: 9.2:1 CR, carb & Emag on a fresh O-320 rated 175HP @
2700RPM.
My performance is nearly identical to the 79" below on the O-320 160 HP,
except slightly higher speeds in cruise (~160kts or 195 MPH).
It runs about 2150 at WOT static runup, 2300 on takeoff, 2450-2500 at cruise
over 8000', 2600 in WOT 200-300 FPM descents.
In other words, it never exceeds the RPM limit except at lower altitude runs
(<8000') or diving.
Climb is 1000-1500 depending on wt. & density altitude. This is all done in
Phoenix where D.A. is about 3000'+ & solo I'm at 1500 FPM climb.
In return I get 7 GPH fuel burns, which is great economy, and even EGT's &
CHT's when WOT. I prefer WOT operation.
I would not change the prop unless I needed more climb rate, but have not
used a short runway where it is critical.
With this setup, a 3000' long runway is fine at 5000' DA & gross weight.
This combo returns about 750 FPM climb.
YMMV,
Kelly Patterson
N716K RV-6A PHX, AZ
61 hrs
>From: "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Cruise Prop O320
>
>
>Darrel,
>I asked the same qeustion and awhile back and this was the
>response I got
>from a guy that was running an 79" on a 160hp 6A.
>
>
>"I recently upgraded my 150hp motor to 160hp and have about 30
>hours since the rebuild. I started out with the 150hp prop
>(77") as I was only turning 2150 on take off and 2470 cruise.
>However, that went up to 2350 on take off and well over 2650
>cruise (could not use full throttle as the prop is limited to
>2600 rpm). I now have about 10 hours on the 79" prop. I was
>measuring some numbers the other day - I can pull about 2630
>at 5500' giving about 150 kt indicated (around 170 kt true),
>although that is 30 rpm over the limit. At 2470 I get 137 kt
>indicated (around 155 true). I am thinking about getting an
>extra inch of pitch added to the prop, but might stay where I am.
>
>On climb I'm getting over 1000 fpm at about 1000 ft on a hot
>Texas day (low 90s) at about 1500lbs - my CHTs get hot quickly
>so I can't sustain that for very long. On the runway I am now
>getting 2300 rpm, so am loathe to increase the pitch more as
>at 2150 the climb rate was really poor (sometimes less than
>500 fpm). However I might go for an additional inch of pitch
>(to 80"), I would have thought 81" would really be a cruise
>prop and not yield very good climb performance. I think I am
>ready to sacrifice a couple of knots of cruise speed for better climb."
>
>I resently put the 80" on my 160HP 6A and this is the results I am
>experiencing as noted in an earlier posting..
>
>"I recently put a new 80 pitch Sensenich propeller on my 160HP
>RV6A. I made a cross country trip and here are my initial
>results. At 8500 at approximately 60 degrees F, I was
>indicating 158 mph, 2530 rpms at WOT and 1680 lbs. After doing
>the math that wound up being 185 mph TAS and the ground speed
>according to my GPS was 195 mph which would be about right as
>there should have been a slight 5-8 knot tail wind component
>according to Dans web sites wind calculator. After climbing to
>9500 the results were still 158 mph indicated, 58deg F, 2500
>rpm at WOT which works out to 188 mph TAS, 197 mph GPS ground
>speed. Again with the expected tail winds this was right on.
>This is the first time I have been able to fly at WOT and the
>CHTs and the EGTs were much more uniform. All in all the new
>prop is doing exactly as advertised. Note: These are not super
>picky test pilot figures, just what was noted during a flight
>from a fly-in with my lovely bride taking notes"
>
>Hope this helps
>Scott
>RV6A
>160hp
>
>>
>>Anyone using a Sensenich 70CM()S9-0-81 Cruise Prop with an
>O320/160 hp
>>on an RV 7 0r RV 9?
>>
>>Darrell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marc Jones" <mjflying(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | New Aymar-Demuth prop for sale |
I have a new in the box Aymar-Demuth prop for sell. Also have the
spinner kit and extension. Was to be mounted on a 0-320-D2J RV-6. If
interested please contact me off the list at mjflying(at)comcast.net
Marc
RV-6
N589M
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Line Firewall Penetration Location |
| From: | "Jekyll" <rcitjh(at)aol.com> |
Dwight:
IO-360 firewall penetration location IS DIFFERENT from the O-360 location. Drawing
OP-32 shows the correct location and the parts list. The drawing comes with
the FWF.
Jekyll
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=37372#37372
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Hangar For Sale at KCNO (Chino, CA) |
My hangarmate (RV-7A builder) Linas is selling one of his hangars at Chino,
CA (KCNO). Here's the deal...
Port-A-Port Executive II hangar large enough for a twin engine aircraft.
Price $15,000. Contact number 949-436-1792.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | How to add 15kt to cruise speed by adding weight |
I've been exploring the CG range in flight testing of my RV8A and have found
an unanticipated cruise speed effect. At 85.9 inches, I was getting 155kias
with 2300rpm, 23 in mp, 5,500 ft, and 42 degrees F outside. At 79.6 inches,
I got 142kias with 2300rpm, 23 in mp, 4,500 ft, and 64 degrees F outside.
My whiz wheel gives true airspeeds of roughly 169kt and 154kt. Quite an
improvement just by adding some weight in back. Yes, the fast flight was
with a little bit higher weight!
There's lots of discussion of speed improvements in the archives, but
nothing related to CG location that I could find and certainly nothing so
easy to get and of this magnitude. So, my question to everyone is have you
had similar experience? Do you know anywhere this has been quantified or
further detailed? After all, I'm just comparing two test flights here, but
theoretically, I'd guess the decrease in drag due to decreased pitch
stability requirements as the CG moves aft would explain the speed increase.
Excited!
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to add 15kt to cruise speed by adding weight |
Have you tried simply altering the CG and not the weight?
I think I remember reading somewhere that the shifted CG changes stabilized AOA
thereby changing drag characteristics.
Geek - not aerodynamicist...and I stayed at a Marriot this weekend instead of a
Holiday Inn!
-----Original Message-----
>From: DAVID REEL <dreel(at)cox.net>
>Sent: May 30, 2006 10:47 AM
>To: rvlist
>Subject: RV-List: How to add 15kt to cruise speed by adding weight
>
>
>I've been exploring the CG range in flight testing of my RV8A and have found
>an unanticipated cruise speed effect. At 85.9 inches, I was getting 155kias
>with 2300rpm, 23 in mp, 5,500 ft, and 42 degrees F outside. At 79.6 inches,
>I got 142kias with 2300rpm, 23 in mp, 4,500 ft, and 64 degrees F outside.
>My whiz wheel gives true airspeeds of roughly 169kt and 154kt. Quite an
>improvement just by adding some weight in back. Yes, the fast flight was
>with a little bit higher weight!
>
>There's lots of discussion of speed improvements in the archives, but
>nothing related to CG location that I could find and certainly nothing so
>easy to get and of this magnitude. So, my question to everyone is have you
>had similar experience? Do you know anywhere this has been quantified or
>further detailed? After all, I'm just comparing two test flights here, but
>theoretically, I'd guess the decrease in drag due to decreased pitch
>stability requirements as the CG moves aft would explain the speed increase.
>
>Excited!
>
>Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Line Firewall Penetration Location |
| From: | "Jekyll" <rcitjh(at)aol.com> |
Dwight:
If you are to the point of doing your fuel line passthrough, you are to the point
of needing your FWF. It comes with the parts you install on the FW behind the
engine such as the heater valve, the master and battery relays and the battery/battery
box to name a few.
The engine driven fuel pump is in the same location but you need a different fuel
line to accommodate the location. You said you are using a vertical induction
IO so, you will be getting O-360 finishing and FWF kits. Email or call Vans
for the full list of the FWF parts to allow you to add and delete parts as necessary
to adapt the O-360 for a vertical induction IO-360.
You need to delete the gascolator, gascolator bracket. Substitute certain fule
lines and throttle cable and throttle bracket.
Jekyll
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=37390#37390
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | How to add 15kt to cruise speed by adding weight |
>
> I've been exploring the CG range in flight testing of my RV8A
> and have found an unanticipated cruise speed effect. At 85.9
> inches, I was getting 155kias with 2300rpm, 23 in mp, 5,500
> ft, and 42 degrees F outside. At 79.6 inches, I got 142kias
> with 2300rpm, 23 in mp, 4,500 ft, and 64 degrees F outside.
> My whiz wheel gives true airspeeds of roughly 169kt and
> 154kt. Quite an improvement just by adding some weight in
> back. Yes, the fast flight was with a little bit higher weight!
>
> There's lots of discussion of speed improvements in the
> archives, but nothing related to CG location that I could
> find and certainly nothing so easy to get and of this
> magnitude. So, my question to everyone is have you had
> similar experience? Do you know anywhere this has been
> quantified or further detailed? After all, I'm just
> comparing two test flights here, but theoretically, I'd guess
> the decrease in drag due to decreased pitch stability
> requirements as the CG moves aft would explain the speed increase.
>
> Excited!
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
Dave,
What were the fuel burns during those two runs? One cannot state that the
power was the same, only that the MAP and RPM were the same. You can vary
airspeed greatly with mixture.
A more aft cg is more efficient, but not that much. (The tail doesn't have
to generate as much downward lift.)
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 755 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar For Sale at KCNO (Chino, CA) |
Sorry for the confusion, but the hangar has been taken off the market.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to add 15kt to cruise speed by adding weight |
David,
That is true in my Bonanza as well, although I have never tried to quantify it.
Less drag from less elevator (ruddivator) down force.
The Bonanza experts warn of CG change with fuel burn moving the CG aft and the
possibility of elevator sensitivity during the landing flare resulting in over
correction.
Did you notice increased elevator sensitivity?
DAVID REEL wrote:
I've been exploring the CG range in flight testing of my RV8A and have found
an unanticipated cruise speed effect. At 85.9 inches, I was getting 155kias
with 2300rpm, 23 in mp, 5,500 ft, and 42 degrees F outside. At 79.6 inches,
I got 142kias with 2300rpm, 23 in mp, 4,500 ft, and 64 degrees F outside.
My whiz wheel gives true airspeeds of roughly 169kt and 154kt. Quite an
improvement just by adding some weight in back. Yes, the fast flight was
with a little bit higher weight!
There's lots of discussion of speed improvements in the archives, but
nothing related to CG location that I could find and certainly nothing so
easy to get and of this magnitude. So, my question to everyone is have you
had similar experience? Do you know anywhere this has been quantified or
further detailed? After all, I'm just comparing two test flights here, but
theoretically, I'd guess the decrease in drag due to decreased pitch
stability requirements as the CG moves aft would explain the speed increase.
Excited!
Dave Reel - RV8A
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Wings
Idaho Falls
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
I have a mono flightcom 403 that has alwqys had a slight echo, and it
has a static discharge sound every so often. I want to upgrad and am
thinking Sigtronics steri might be a good choice. Would like coments,
and also will I have to change headst jacks? Charlie H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Beadle" <dan.beadle(at)inclinesoftworks.com> |
| Subject: | How to add 15kt to cruise speed by adding weight |
This is basic aerodynamics. To get stability (AKA, hard to flare), you move
the CG forward. Think Lawn Dart. In this mode, the tail actually pulls
down, not up. This results in the wing needing to produce more lift (weight
+ the tails negative lift so that total lift = weight).
If you move the CG back, you have less and less down-lift on the tail,
letting the wing work less, thus getting less induced drag. Faster.
A heavier airplane, with the same CG, should fly slower than the same plane,
same CG, when it is lighter. The reason is the heavier airplane must have a
higher angle of attack to produce the needed additional lift. That means
more induced drag.
The CG limits are set to give reasonable handling. The forward CG is
limited by the ability to flare.
The Aft CG is limited by the need for positive stability. If we moved the CG
back to where the tail was lifting, we would have no stability. In the
normal range, as the plane slows from the trimmed AS, the wing and the tail
both lose some lift. But the tail is now lifting less in the downward
direction, letting the nose fall down a bit and resume the trimmed AS.
If we move too far back, we lose the stability feature making the airplane
difficult or impossible to fly.
Rule of thumb: smooth air, load for aft CG (within limits). Rough air,
keep a more forward CG.
So your data does make sense. (But the faster/heavier combination is
probably just due to aft CG.)
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sherman Butler
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to add 15kt to cruise speed by adding weight
David,
That is true in my Bonanza as well, although I have never tried to
quantify it. Less drag from less elevator (ruddivator) down force.
The Bonanza experts warn of CG change with fuel burn moving the CG aft and
the possibility of elevator sensitivity during the landing flare resulting
in over correction.
Did you notice increased elevator sensitivity?
DAVID REEL wrote:
I've been exploring the CG range in flight testing of my RV8A and have found
an unanticipated cruise speed effect. At 85.9 inches, I was getting 155kias
with 2300rpm, 23 in mp, 5,500 ft, and 42 degrees F outside. At 79.6 inches,
I got 142kias with 2300rpm, 23 in mp, 4,500 ft, and 64 degrees F outside.
My whiz wheel gives true airspeeds of roughly 169kt and 154kt. Quite an
improvement just by adding some weight in back. Yes, the fast flight was
with a little bit higher weight!
There's lots of discussion of speed improvements in the archives, but
nothing related to CG location that I could find and certainly nothing so
easy to get and of this magnitude. So, my question to everyone is have you
had similar experience? Do you know anywhere this has been quantified or
further detailed? After all, I'm just comparing two test flights here, but
theoretically, I'd guess the decrease in drag due to decreased pitch
stability requirements as the CG moves aft would explain the speed increase.
Excited!
Dave Reel - RV8A
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Wings
Idaho Falls
---------------------------------
Voice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hanging my IO-320 - lower mount spacer |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Has anyone else had this experience ?
I hung my engine this weekend - but I think it needs to come
off again. Vans supplies 2 large diameter AN7 washers in the
engine mount bolt kit that are to shim the forward faces of the
lower engine mounts off the engine so that the mount clears a
"step" in the engine casing. The "step" is the mounting flange
for the oil sump.
All's well on the right lower mount, but on the lower left its
as if the shim isn't thick enough, or more to the point, the
flange on the engine protrudes too much. Consequence is that
mount doesn't sit flush on the engine - its slightly at an
angle with the top part of the mount making contact and the
lower part interfering with the oil sump flange.
Is this a common problem or am I breaking new ground here :) I
guess the obvious solution is to pull the engine and grind off
the flange on the oil sump mount. I'm more than a little
hesitant about doing surgery on my engine.
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Tracking... |
> I am looking for some software that I can download GPS track info to
> that will display it on a map to show where I have been... Anyone
> know = of such a thing?
I download the tracks from my Garmin GPS into the Garmin MapSource program.
It requires that you have purchased some MapSource data from Garmin, of
course, so you have a map to overlay it on, but I have most of North
America so it works for me.
I experimented with downloading the track and converting it to an XML file
that I could read into a website and overlay on a Google map... It worked
very well, but I found that the performance seriously bogged down beyond
about 50 points in the GPS track. It works great for tracking yourself if
you're jogging or hiking, but not so good when you fly across country.
Here's a website showing how it works for runners. I wanted to do the same
thing for pilots, but the API can't handle the large number of points in a
typical flight track.
<http://www.favoriterun.com/>
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to add 15kt to cruise speed by adding weight |
Hi Dave,
I discovered the same effect in my RV-6A which is a bit nose heavy. Best
top speed was when I had the baggage compartment load to the max with
camping gear and full wing tanks. I suspect you are correct in that the aft
CG results in less down component from the horizonal stabilizer resulting in
less drag. The wing incident may also be a bit more optimum (less) also
resulting in less drag. As best I could determine my speed increase was
between 8-10 MPH.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 10:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: How to add 15kt to cruise speed by adding weight
>
> I've been exploring the CG range in flight testing of my RV8A and have
> found
> an unanticipated cruise speed effect. At 85.9 inches, I was getting
> 155kias
> with 2300rpm, 23 in mp, 5,500 ft, and 42 degrees F outside. At 79.6
> inches,
> I got 142kias with 2300rpm, 23 in mp, 4,500 ft, and 64 degrees F outside.
> My whiz wheel gives true airspeeds of roughly 169kt and 154kt. Quite an
> improvement just by adding some weight in back. Yes, the fast flight was
> with a little bit higher weight!
>
> There's lots of discussion of speed improvements in the archives, but
> nothing related to CG location that I could find and certainly nothing so
> easy to get and of this magnitude. So, my question to everyone is have
> you
> had similar experience? Do you know anywhere this has been quantified or
> further detailed? After all, I'm just comparing two test flights here,
> but
> theoretically, I'd guess the decrease in drag due to decreased pitch
> stability requirements as the CG moves aft would explain the speed
> increase.
>
> Excited!
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
PS Engineering all the way...can't beat the quality or
customer service...not too much more expensive, but
the audio quality is far superior, IMHO...I've had
both sigtronics and PS Engineering...there's a reason
that sigtronics sells "budget quality" headsets and
avionics.
Spend the extra money on PS Engineering in my opinion.
Paul Besing
--- Charles Heathco wrote:
>
>
> I have a mono flightcom 403 that has alwqys had a
> slight echo, and it
> has a static discharge sound every so often. I want
> to upgrad and am
> thinking Sigtronics steri might be a good choice.
> Would like coments,
> and also will I have to change headst jacks? Charlie
> H
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | mixture cable flexing |
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
I have an io-360 with the AFP fuel controller mounted below the sump
(vertical induction). AFP supplies nice, heavy duty brackets with the fuel
controller for mounting the mixture and throttle cables. However, with the
mixture cable in particular, the distance between the firewall pass-through
point and the point where the cable attaches to the bracket is very short
- maybe 4 inches. This short distance doesnt allow any room for curving
the cable and allowing it to flex during engine shaking etc, especially
since the eyeball socket at the firewall cable does not allow the cable to
slip in and out at all. Do folks generally build-in a little flex in the
mixture and throttle cables forward of the firewall, or is it pretty much a
straight shot from the firewall to the rod-end bearing? Dont I have a
legitimate concern with respect to the need for cable flexing?
thanks for any insights
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick McCraw" <rick(at)n608ef.us> |
| Subject: | How to add 15kt to cruise speed by adding weight |
I like Dan's explanation, but will add a bit more.
Specifically, we require the CG to be forward of the center of lift (CL) in
order to have a stable aircraft (and one whose nose drops when the wing is
stalled). The closer the CG gets to the CL, the less induced drag, but the
less stable the plane will be. If the CG should go aft of the CL, all bets
are off in terms of controllability.
Another e-mail commented on Bonanzas and how their CG moves with fuel burn.
Whether the CG moves aft with fuel burn should depend on the CG of the tank
and its fuel relative to the CG of the plane. I fly an A-36 Bonanza, and
when weight is up (hence, realistically, with a CG farther aft than when
lightly loaded), I have indeed noticed greater pitch sensitivity after a
long flight. When I plan flights at higher weights, I check my loading by
calculating CG for zero fuel, just to be on the safe side. For extra
margin), I try to land with fuller tanks, too.
Rick
A-36, RV-7 in process
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Beadle
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:38 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: How to add 15kt to cruise speed by adding weight
This is basic aerodynamics. To get stability (AKA, hard to flare), you move
the CG forward. Think Lawn Dart. In this mode, the tail actually pulls
down, not up. This results in the wing needing to produce more lift (weight
+ the tails negative lift so that total lift = weight).
If you move the CG back, you have less and less down-lift on the tail,
letting the wing work less, thus getting less induced drag. Faster.
A heavier airplane, with the same CG, should fly slower than the same plane,
same CG, when it is lighter. The reason is the heavier airplane must have a
higher angle of attack to produce the needed additional lift. That means
more induced drag.
The CG limits are set to give reasonable handling. The forward CG is
limited by the ability to flare.
The Aft CG is limited by the need for positive stability. If we moved the CG
back to where the tail was lifting, we would have no stability. In the
normal range, as the plane slows from the trimmed AS, the wing and the tail
both lose some lift. But the tail is now lifting less in the downward
direction, letting the nose fall down a bit and resume the trimmed AS.
If we move too far back, we lose the stability feature making the airplane
difficult or impossible to fly.
Rule of thumb: smooth air, load for aft CG (within limits). Rough air,
keep a more forward CG.
So your data does make sense. (But the faster/heavier combination is
probably just due to aft CG.)
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to add 15kt to cruise speed by adding weight |
| From: | "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
May 13, 2006 - May 30, 2006
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ry