RV-Archive.digest.vol-se

August 10, 2006 - August 26, 2006



      >>> which may
      >>> have also led to him not identifying which was the next in line.
      >>>
      >>> The bottom line there is that if he was following the wrong plane  and 
      >>> didn't
      >>> know about the RV than nothing outside like walkers or radios  could 
      >>> have
      >>> fixed that as they would not know that he didn't know until he ran  into 
      >>> it.
      >>>
      >>> Which is pretty much what happens in most mid air collisions ie  neither
      >>> pilot has identified the other's presence and relative location  until 
      >>> it's
      >>> too late.
      >>>
      >>> As has already been said, a lot of S/A and a little prayer... AKA  head 
      >>> on a
      >>> swivel at all times on any airport.
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Flying to Canada from US (and back)
Date: Aug 10, 2006
Jeff, Same here as Kevin...haven't been asked for my radio station license or restricted radiotelephone operator's permit (only flew to Canada once, Mexico several times). But I do have 'em to be "safe." Something you DO need to carry is a "Standardised Validation of a Special Airworthiness Certificate-Experimental" aboard your U.S. built homebuilt airplane. Doesn't need to be signed or anything, just print it out and carry it with your aircraft docs. See the bottom of this page: http://www.faa.gov/aircraft/gen_av/ultralights/sfa/ ...and here's a direct link: http://www.faa.gov/aircraft/gen_av/ultralights/sfa/media/tcauth.pdf Gotta love how easy it is flying to Canada! I hope to fly to BC one of these years. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1030 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 12:33 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > I have flown across the border hundreds of times, and no one has ever > asked to see my radio operators permit, nor the one for the aircraft. > They are much more worried about what type of food you might have along, > drugs, alcohol, guns, etc. Don't waste your time or money on the radio > permits. > > Kevin Horton > Ottawa, Canada > > > On 10 Aug 2006, at 14:34, Jeff Dowling wrote: > >> >> >> Im planning on making my first international leg with my rv this wknd. >> I checked out aopa's site and was surprised to find I needed a stinkin' >> radio operators permit for me and the plane. 155 bucks down the drain. >> Then another 25 for a customs decal. Add the fee for air traffic >> control, which I dont know how it will be charged, and its costing a lot >> more than I thought. Oh well, Ive heard the fishing is ok. >> >> Any suggestions from anyone familiar with this type of flying? Im >> planning on landing in Ontario at Dryden and plan to call customs 24 >> hours in advance. No idea where to clear in MN yet. >> >> Shemp/Jeff Dowling >> RV-6A, N915JD >> 295 hours >> Chicago/Louisville >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> >> To: >> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 12:46 PM >> Subject: RV-List: TBM >> >> >>> >>> Thanks Gert, >>> >>> It sounds like the TBM just missed seeing the smaller plane in the >>> horizon >>> of stuff. >>> >>> I might be painting my rudder day glo orange just because... >>> >>> It also sounds like there was initially a large gap between the TBM and >>> the >>> rest of the traffic when it first approached the north end of Papa >>> which may >>> have also led to him not identifying which was the next in line. >>> >>> The bottom line there is that if he was following the wrong plane and >>> didn't >>> know about the RV than nothing outside like walkers or radios could >>> have >>> fixed that as they would not know that he didn't know until he ran into >>> it. >>> >>> Which is pretty much what happens in most mid air collisions ie neither >>> pilot has identified the other's presence and relative location until >>> it's >>> too late. >>> >>> As has already been said, a lot of S/A and a little prayer... AKA head >>> on a >>> swivel at all times on any airport. >>> >>> >>> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Vertical Card Compass in RV Panel Vertical Card Compass
in RV Panel
Date: Aug 10, 2006
On 10 Aug 2006, at 08:14, L Klingmuller wrote: > Oh yes, GPS have made compass obsolete but then again it is > required and you may find out the GPS does not work. The compass isn't obsolete if ATC asks you to fly a particular heading. They often give specific headings to various aircraft to ensure separation between them. This works as long as all the aircraft are actually flying heading. But, if there is a strong wind, there may be a large difference between heading and track. If one aircraft is flying heading, and another one is flying track, then separation may be compromised. I do agree that if you are navigating somewhere, track info is extremely useful, and heading info is much less useful. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2006
From: gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: io360-a1b
Hi Folks can anybody tell me the difference between the 06A19956 and STD2217 oil seals, both are 7/8" i.d. x 1-1/2" o.d. x 5/16" wide. according to the parts book, my vacuum pump adapter should have the 06A19956 seal, but has the STD2217 seal and it needs replacing, also, in the parts book, page 2-4 of the parts manual, it shows steel ring #3 to sit on top of the drive gear, under the tail of #16. However on page 5-4 of the overhaul manual as well as on page 1-23 of the limits and torque supplement, it shows the steel ring under the snapring holding the shaft in place. I looked at two adapters, and wouldn't u know, one had the ring on top and one had the ring at the bottom. Anybody knows the correct placement?? any input greatly appreciated. Thanks Gert -- ------------------------------------------------------------------- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. -------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Flying to Canada from US (and back)
Date: Aug 10, 2006
I fly between Niagara falls and Toronto and can tell you I've also never had to show anyone a radio license. The Canadian immigration are great to deal with. I simply arrive at a port of entry, then from the fbo call customs and they will ask questions and possibly visit you if they feel the need. The problem is coming home. Once I was threatened with incarceration for opening the aircraft canopy before the customs agent said it was ok.....plus he was already pissed for me being 10 minutes early. I think Part of my punishment was to sit and bake in the sun...but dont despair, my marine experience has been exactly the same. So I know they're not singling out flyboys and flygirls. Steve d 40205 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 3:34 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) I have flown across the border hundreds of times, and no one has ever asked to see my radio operators permit, nor the one for the aircraft. They are much more worried about what type of food you might have along, drugs, alcohol, guns, etc. Don't waste your time or money on the radio permits. Kevin Horton Ottawa, Canada -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
Subject: Capella and other LSA's
Date: Aug 11, 2006
John, I went to the Czech republic last month to fly the new Sportcruiser which also has a rotax 912S. It is an excellent LSA, with great vis, cruise and amazing shortfield. It looks very clean too, and I cant see anyone building an RV12 when they can buy a ready built performer like this. In fact it with the cost of fuel in Europe I think there will be a lot of RV's for sale in the near future (a number of places in France were without AVGAS last week !).. Your friend may want to have a trial flight. Rgds, Nic From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> Subject: RV-List: Capella I have a friend that needs to go to LSA. He has come across a Capella with a Rotax912 that fits his price, anyone have information or opinions about this plane? Thanks John RV7 in process ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Flying to Canada from US (and back)
Date: Aug 11, 2006
The procedures for Canada Customs are here: http://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/E/pub/cp/rc4341/rc4341-e.html You need to call them before leaving the US (1-888-226-7277 at least two hours before your arrival time). Then after landing, if there is no Customs officer there to meet you, call them again. No one can leave the aircraft, except the pilot if he has to leave to make that phone call. Quite often they will not come out to meet the aircraft, and will simply give you a clearance number once you phone them after arrival in Canada. Also, due to US TSA requirements, you need to in communication with an ATC agency, and have a discrete transponder code when crossing the border. This can be accomplished by either being on an IFR flight plan, or being on flight following as you approach the border. You must be on a flight plan to cross the border. You also need to know that there are a few procedural differences in Canada. For example, circuit joining procedures are a bit different. A 45 to downwind is not on the list of approved entry procedures, so other traffic won't be looking for you if you do that entry. Instead, there is a midfield downwind entry, where you cross the field and join mid downwind. Kevin Horton On 10 Aug 2006, at 23:47, Steven DiNieri wrote: > > > I fly between Niagara falls and Toronto and can tell you I've also > never had > to show anyone a radio license. The Canadian immigration are great > to deal > with. I simply arrive at a port of entry, then from the fbo call > customs and > they will ask questions and possibly visit you if they feel the > need. The > problem is coming home. Once I was threatened with incarceration > for opening > the aircraft canopy before the customs agent said it was > ok.....plus he was > already pissed for me being 10 minutes early. I think Part of my > punishment > was to sit and bake in the sun...but dont despair, my marine > experience has > been exactly the same. So I know they're not singling out flyboys and > flygirls. > Steve d > 40205 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton > Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 3:34 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > > I have flown across the border hundreds of times, and no one has ever > asked to see my radio operators permit, nor the one for the > aircraft. They are much more worried about what type of food you > might have along, drugs, alcohol, guns, etc. Don't waste your time > or money on the radio permits. > > Kevin Horton > Ottawa, Canada > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2006
From: Gilbert Bibeau <gilbert.bibeau(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 08/10/06
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gilbert Bibeau T.P. t.450-623-5577 f. 450-623-4459 c. 514-996-5615 Construction Desormeaux et Bibeau inc. gilbert.bibeau(at)videotron.ca ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV-List Digest Server" <rv-list(at)matronics.com> Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 2:57 AM Subject: RV-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 08/10/06 > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2006-08-10.html > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2006-08-10.txt > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Thu 08/10/06: 14 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 05:16 AM - Re: Vertical Card Compass in RV Panel Vertical Card > Compass in RV Panel (L Klingmuller) > 2. 06:06 AM - Capella (John Furey) > 3. 06:40 AM - Re: Vertical Card Compass in RV Panel (SCOTT SPENCER) > 4. 10:23 AM - Re: LSE Plugs... (Bob J.) > 5. 10:47 AM - TBM (Wheeler North) > 6. 11:36 AM - Flying to Canada from US (and back) (Jeff Dowling) > 7. 12:33 PM - Re: Flying to Canada from US (and back) (Lloyd, Daniel > R.) > 8. 12:34 PM - Re: Flying to Canada from US (and back) (Kevin Horton) > 9. 01:00 PM - Re: Capella (George Tyler) > 10. 01:20 PM - Re: Flying to Canada from US (and back) (Randy Lervold) > 11. 03:12 PM - Re: Flying to Canada from US (and back) (Dan Checkoway) > 12. 05:11 PM - Re: Vertical Card Compass in RV Panel Vertical Card > Compass in RV Panel (Kevin Horton) > 13. 08:27 PM - io360-a1b (gert) > 14. 08:48 PM - Re: Flying to Canada from US (and back) (Steven > DiNieri) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "L Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller6(at)earthlink.net> > Subject: re: RV-List: Vertical Card Compass in RV Panel Vertical Card > Compass > in RV Panel > > In my tip up 6A I had it in the panel next the six pack. Did not work at > all. > So I moved it to the glareschield. Still debating if I should replace it > with > a regular whisky compass as it still not what it should be. Oh yes, GPS > have > made compass obsolete but then again it is required and you may find out > the > GPS does not work. > Lothar > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> > Subject: RV-List: Capella > > I have a friend that needs to go to LSA. He has come across a Capella with > a > Rotax912 that fits his price, anyone have information or opinions about > this > plane? > Thanks > John > 2 RV6A completed > RV7 in process > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > From: SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net> > Subject: RV-List: Re: Vertical Card Compass in RV Panel > > The issue with vertical card compasses when mounted in a panel is > two-fold. First, > they are more sensitive to local magnetic fields. Second, and much worse > is > that they use a BIG magnet on a needle bearing and no damping fluid. They > will > just spin around in circles under certain resonant vibrations. They are > horribly > affected by vibration. It also wears out the pivot bearings very fast. > This > is why the manufacturers of these devices provide very soft and cushioned > mounts for them -for out of the panel applications only. > > I tried on in a panel myself a few years back -even talked to the > manufacturer > about it... It just plain didn't work for the above reasons. > > Scott > N4ZW > > ________________________________ Message 4 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: LSE Plugs... > > Useful link for deciphering NGK spark plug numbers... > > http://www.kaila.net/tl125/tl125ngkcode.html > > Regards, > Bob Japundza > RV-6 flying F1 under const. > > ________________________________ Message 5 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> > Subject: RV-List: TBM > > > Thanks Gert, > > It sounds like the TBM just missed seeing the smaller plane in the horizon > of stuff. > > I might be painting my rudder day glo orange just because... > > It also sounds like there was initially a large gap between the TBM and > the > rest of the traffic when it first approached the north end of Papa which > may > have also led to him not identifying which was the next in line. > > The bottom line there is that if he was following the wrong plane and > didn't > know about the RV than nothing outside like walkers or radios could have > fixed that as they would not know that he didn't know until he ran into > it. > > Which is pretty much what happens in most mid air collisions ie neither > pilot has identified the other's presence and relative location until it's > too late. > > As has already been said, a lot of S/A and a little prayer... AKA head on > a > swivel at all times on any airport. > > > ________________________________ Message 6 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> > Subject: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > > > Im planning on making my first international leg with my rv this wknd. I > checked out aopa's site and was surprised to find I needed a stinkin' > radio > operators permit for me and the plane. 155 bucks down the drain. Then > another 25 for a customs decal. Add the fee for air traffic control, > which > I dont know how it will be charged, and its costing a lot more than I > thought. Oh well, Ive heard the fishing is ok. > > Any suggestions from anyone familiar with this type of flying? Im > planning > on landing in Ontario at Dryden and plan to call customs 24 hours in > advance. No idea where to clear in MN yet. > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling > RV-6A, N915JD > 295 hours > Chicago/Louisville > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> > Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 12:46 PM > Subject: RV-List: TBM > > >> >> Thanks Gert, >> >> It sounds like the TBM just missed seeing the smaller plane in the >> horizon >> of stuff. >> >> I might be painting my rudder day glo orange just because... >> >> It also sounds like there was initially a large gap between the TBM and >> the >> rest of the traffic when it first approached the north end of Papa which >> may >> have also led to him not identifying which was the next in line. >> >> The bottom line there is that if he was following the wrong plane and >> didn't >> know about the RV than nothing outside like walkers or radios could have >> fixed that as they would not know that he didn't know until he ran into >> it. >> >> Which is pretty much what happens in most mid air collisions ie neither >> pilot has identified the other's presence and relative location until >> it's >> too late. >> >> As has already been said, a lot of S/A and a little prayer... AKA head on >> a >> swivel at all times on any airport. >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 7 > _____________________________________ > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> > > > Since you are near us in Chicago, you should join the Ohio Valley > Rvators. We have more than 50 RV's flying, weekend get togethers, have a > great formation team, and yearly clinic. We now have over 400 members > and growing. Rick Gray runs the group and a bunch of them have made this > trip several times and should be able to help you with what exactly you > do and do not need. Takes just a few minutes to join, great group of > guys and great resources for international travel. > Hope this helps. > Dan > 40269 (N289DT) > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling > Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 2:34 PM > Subject: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > > > Im planning on making my first international leg with my rv this wknd. > I > checked out aopa's site and was surprised to find I needed a stinkin' > radio > operators permit for me and the plane. 155 bucks down the drain. Then > another 25 for a customs decal. Add the fee for air traffic control, > which > I dont know how it will be charged, and its costing a lot more than I > thought. Oh well, Ive heard the fishing is ok. > > Any suggestions from anyone familiar with this type of flying? Im > planning > on landing in Ontario at Dryden and plan to call customs 24 hours in > advance. No idea where to clear in MN yet. > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling > RV-6A, N915JD > 295 hours > Chicago/Louisville > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> > Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 12:46 PM > Subject: RV-List: TBM > > >> >> Thanks Gert, >> >> It sounds like the TBM just missed seeing the smaller plane in the > horizon >> of stuff. >> >> I might be painting my rudder day glo orange just because... >> >> It also sounds like there was initially a large gap between the TBM > and >> the >> rest of the traffic when it first approached the north end of Papa > which >> may >> have also led to him not identifying which was the next in line. >> >> The bottom line there is that if he was following the wrong plane and >> didn't >> know about the RV than nothing outside like walkers or radios could > have >> fixed that as they would not know that he didn't know until he ran > into >> it. >> >> Which is pretty much what happens in most mid air collisions ie > neither >> pilot has identified the other's presence and relative location until > it's >> too late. >> >> As has already been said, a lot of S/A and a little prayer... AKA head > on >> a >> swivel at all times on any airport. >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 8 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > > I have flown across the border hundreds of times, and no one has ever > asked to see my radio operators permit, nor the one for the > aircraft. They are much more worried about what type of food you > might have along, drugs, alcohol, guns, etc. Don't waste your time > or money on the radio permits. > > Kevin Horton > Ottawa, Canada > > > On 10 Aug 2006, at 14:34, Jeff Dowling wrote: > >> >> >> Im planning on making my first international leg with my rv this >> wknd. I checked out aopa's site and was surprised to find I needed >> a stinkin' radio operators permit for me and the plane. 155 bucks >> down the drain. Then another 25 for a customs decal. Add the fee >> for air traffic control, which I dont know how it will be charged, >> and its costing a lot more than I thought. Oh well, Ive heard the >> fishing is ok. >> >> Any suggestions from anyone familiar with this type of flying? Im >> planning on landing in Ontario at Dryden and plan to call customs >> 24 hours in advance. No idea where to clear in MN yet. >> >> Shemp/Jeff Dowling >> RV-6A, N915JD >> 295 hours >> Chicago/Louisville >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> >> To: >> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 12:46 PM >> Subject: RV-List: TBM >> >> >>> >>> Thanks Gert, >>> >>> It sounds like the TBM just missed seeing the smaller plane in the >>> horizon >>> of stuff. >>> >>> I might be painting my rudder day glo orange just because... >>> >>> It also sounds like there was initially a large gap between the >>> TBM and the >>> rest of the traffic when it first approached the north end of Papa >>> which may >>> have also led to him not identifying which was the next in line. >>> >>> The bottom line there is that if he was following the wrong plane >>> and didn't >>> know about the RV than nothing outside like walkers or radios >>> could have >>> fixed that as they would not know that he didn't know until he ran >>> into it. >>> >>> Which is pretty much what happens in most mid air collisions ie >>> neither >>> pilot has identified the other's presence and relative location >>> until it's >>> too late. >>> >>> As has already been said, a lot of S/A and a little prayer... AKA >>> head on a >>> swivel at all times on any airport. >>> >>> >>> > > > ________________________________ Message 9 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "George Tyler" <gptyler(at)metrocast.net> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Capella > > I built and flew one, It was a fun plane, great in the summer with the > doors off. Flew about 90-105 mph. I got rid of it when I got my RV-6, > but lots of times I wish I still had it for those low and slow days. > Although I had no trouble with the manufacturer or the kit, I think he > did have problems with timely deliveries that caused more than a few > customer complaints. I am not even sure if they are still in business. > George > ----- Original Message ----- > From: John Furey > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 9:07 AM > Subject: RV-List: Capella > > > I have a friend that needs to go to LSA. He has come across a Capella > with a Rotax912 that fits his price, anyone have information or opinions > about this plane? > Thanks > John > 2 RV6A completed > RV7 in process > > ________________________________ Message 10 > ____________________________________ > > > From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > > I've been across the border a few times and like Kevin, was never asked > for > it. Our chapter has a good guide to flying to Canada although some of the > data applies to us out west... > http://www.edt.com/homewing/international/index.html > > Randy Lervold > www.rv-3.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com> > Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 12:33 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > >> >> I have flown across the border hundreds of times, and no one has ever >> asked to see my radio operators permit, nor the one for the aircraft. >> They are much more worried about what type of food you might have along, >> drugs, alcohol, guns, etc. Don't waste your time or money on the radio >> permits. >> >> Kevin Horton >> Ottawa, Canada >> >> >> On 10 Aug 2006, at 14:34, Jeff Dowling wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> Im planning on making my first international leg with my rv this wknd. >>> I checked out aopa's site and was surprised to find I needed a stinkin' >>> radio operators permit for me and the plane. 155 bucks down the drain. >>> Then another 25 for a customs decal. Add the fee for air traffic >>> control, which I dont know how it will be charged, and its costing a >>> lot >>> more than I thought. Oh well, Ive heard the fishing is ok. >>> >>> Any suggestions from anyone familiar with this type of flying? Im >>> planning on landing in Ontario at Dryden and plan to call customs 24 >>> hours in advance. No idea where to clear in MN yet. >>> >>> Shemp/Jeff Dowling >>> RV-6A, N915JD >>> 295 hours >>> Chicago/Louisville >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> >>> To: >>> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 12:46 PM >>> Subject: RV-List: TBM >>> >>> >>>> >>>> Thanks Gert, >>>> >>>> It sounds like the TBM just missed seeing the smaller plane in the >>>> horizon >>>> of stuff. >>>> >>>> I might be painting my rudder day glo orange just because... >>>> >>>> It also sounds like there was initially a large gap between the TBM >>>> and >>>> the >>>> rest of the traffic when it first approached the north end of Papa >>>> which may >>>> have also led to him not identifying which was the next in line. >>>> >>>> The bottom line there is that if he was following the wrong plane and >>>> didn't >>>> know about the RV than nothing outside like walkers or radios could >>>> have >>>> fixed that as they would not know that he didn't know until he ran >>>> into >>>> it. >>>> >>>> Which is pretty much what happens in most mid air collisions ie >>>> neither >>>> pilot has identified the other's presence and relative location until >>>> it's >>>> too late. >>>> >>>> As has already been said, a lot of S/A and a little prayer... AKA head >>>> on a >>>> swivel at all times on any airport. >>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 11 > ____________________________________ > > > From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > > Jeff, > > Same here as Kevin...haven't been asked for my radio station license or > restricted radiotelephone operator's permit (only flew to Canada once, > Mexico several times). But I do have 'em to be "safe." > > Something you DO need to carry is a "Standardised Validation of a Special > Airworthiness Certificate-Experimental" aboard your U.S. built homebuilt > airplane. Doesn't need to be signed or anything, just print it out and > carry it with your aircraft docs. See the bottom of this page: > > http://www.faa.gov/aircraft/gen_av/ultralights/sfa/ > > ...and here's a direct link: > > http://www.faa.gov/aircraft/gen_av/ultralights/sfa/media/tcauth.pdf > > Gotta love how easy it is flying to Canada! I hope to fly to BC one of > these years. > > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D (1030 hours) > http://www.rvproject.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com> > Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 12:33 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > >> >> I have flown across the border hundreds of times, and no one has ever >> asked to see my radio operators permit, nor the one for the aircraft. >> They are much more worried about what type of food you might have along, >> drugs, alcohol, guns, etc. Don't waste your time or money on the radio >> permits. >> >> Kevin Horton >> Ottawa, Canada >> >> >> On 10 Aug 2006, at 14:34, Jeff Dowling wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> Im planning on making my first international leg with my rv this wknd. >>> I checked out aopa's site and was surprised to find I needed a stinkin' >>> radio operators permit for me and the plane. 155 bucks down the drain. >>> Then another 25 for a customs decal. Add the fee for air traffic >>> control, which I dont know how it will be charged, and its costing a >>> lot >>> more than I thought. Oh well, Ive heard the fishing is ok. >>> >>> Any suggestions from anyone familiar with this type of flying? Im >>> planning on landing in Ontario at Dryden and plan to call customs 24 >>> hours in advance. No idea where to clear in MN yet. >>> >>> Shemp/Jeff Dowling >>> RV-6A, N915JD >>> 295 hours >>> Chicago/Louisville >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> >>> To: >>> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 12:46 PM >>> Subject: RV-List: TBM >>> >>> >>>> >>>> Thanks Gert, >>>> >>>> It sounds like the TBM just missed seeing the smaller plane in the >>>> horizon >>>> of stuff. >>>> >>>> I might be painting my rudder day glo orange just because... >>>> >>>> It also sounds like there was initially a large gap between the TBM >>>> and >>>> the >>>> rest of the traffic when it first approached the north end of Papa >>>> which may >>>> have also led to him not identifying which was the next in line. >>>> >>>> The bottom line there is that if he was following the wrong plane and >>>> didn't >>>> know about the RV than nothing outside like walkers or radios could >>>> have >>>> fixed that as they would not know that he didn't know until he ran >>>> into >>>> it. >>>> >>>> Which is pretty much what happens in most mid air collisions ie >>>> neither >>>> pilot has identified the other's presence and relative location until >>>> it's >>>> too late. >>>> >>>> As has already been said, a lot of S/A and a little prayer... AKA head >>>> on a >>>> swivel at all times on any airport. >>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 12 > ____________________________________ > > > From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Vertical Card Compass in RV Panel Vertical Card > Compass > in RV Panel > > > On 10 Aug 2006, at 08:14, L Klingmuller wrote: > >> Oh yes, GPS have made compass obsolete but then again it is >> required and you may find out the GPS does not work. > > The compass isn't obsolete if ATC asks you to fly a particular > heading. They often give specific headings to various aircraft to > ensure separation between them. This works as long as all the > aircraft are actually flying heading. But, if there is a strong > wind, there may be a large difference between heading and track. If > one aircraft is flying heading, and another one is flying track, then > separation may be compromised. > > I do agree that if you are navigating somewhere, track info is > extremely useful, and heading info is much less useful. > > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) > Ottawa, Canada > http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 > > > ________________________________ Message 13 > ____________________________________ > > > From: gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net> > Subject: RV-List: io360-a1b > > > Hi Folks > > can anybody tell me the difference between the 06A19956 and STD2217 oil > seals, both are 7/8" i.d. x 1-1/2" o.d. x 5/16" wide. > according to the parts book, my vacuum pump adapter should have the > 06A19956 seal, but has the STD2217 seal and it needs replacing, > > > also, in the parts book, page 2-4 of the parts manual, it shows steel > ring #3 to sit on top of the drive gear, under the tail of #16. However > on page 5-4 of the overhaul manual as well as on page 1-23 of the limits > and torque supplement, it shows the steel ring under the snapring > holding the shaft in place. I looked at two adapters, and wouldn't u > know, one had the ring on top and one had the ring at the bottom. > Anybody knows the correct placement?? > > any input greatly appreciated. > > > Thanks > > > Gert > > -- > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, > any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 > US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > ________________________________ Message 14 > ____________________________________ > > > From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > > I fly between Niagara falls and Toronto and can tell you I've also never > had > to show anyone a radio license. The Canadian immigration are great to deal > with. I simply arrive at a port of entry, then from the fbo call customs > and > they will ask questions and possibly visit you if they feel the need. The > problem is coming home. Once I was threatened with incarceration for > opening > the aircraft canopy before the customs agent said it was ok.....plus he > was > already pissed for me being 10 minutes early. I think Part of my > punishment > was to sit and bake in the sun...but dont despair, my marine experience > has > been exactly the same. So I know they're not singling out flyboys and > flygirls. > Steve d > 40205 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton > Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 3:34 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > > I have flown across the border hundreds of times, and no one has ever > asked to see my radio operators permit, nor the one for the > aircraft. They are much more worried about what type of food you > might have along, drugs, alcohol, guns, etc. Don't waste your time > or money on the radio permits. > > Kevin Horton > Ottawa, Canada > > > -- > > > -- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: io360-a1b
Date: Aug 11, 2006
From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
The 06A19956 part number is the superceding p/n for STD-2217 according to the Lycoming Parts History manual. Probably no difference other than who the vendor is that was used to produce the part number, or a process change in how the seal was manufactured. Rhonda -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gert Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 10:07 PM Subject: RV-List: io360-a1b Hi Folks can anybody tell me the difference between the 06A19956 and STD2217 oil seals, both are 7/8" i.d. x 1-1/2" o.d. x 5/16" wide. according to the parts book, my vacuum pump adapter should have the 06A19956 seal, but has the STD2217 seal and it needs replacing, also, in the parts book, page 2-4 of the parts manual, it shows steel ring #3 to sit on top of the drive gear, under the tail of #16. However on page 5-4 of the overhaul manual as well as on page 1-23 of the limits and torque supplement, it shows the steel ring under the snapring holding the shaft in place. I looked at two adapters, and wouldn't u know, one had the ring on top and one had the ring at the bottom. Anybody knows the correct placement?? any input greatly appreciated. Thanks Gert -- ------------------------------------------------------------------- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. -------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Flying to Canada from US (and back)
Date: Aug 11, 2006
Just saw this, as well. Not sure if it was already referenced. CROSSING THE BORDER: CHECKLIST FOR FLIGHTS TO CANADA If you've already made a trip or two to Canada but need a refresher before you begin your next trip, AOPA and the Canadian Owners and Pilots Association offer a quick-reference checklist. The checklist details what personal and aircraft documentation is needed to make the trip, along with tips for your arrival to and departure from Canada. Plus the list can be printed on one page so that you can keep it handy during the trip. Check list is here: http://www.aopa.org/members/pic/intl/canada/briefing.html#checklist John Jessen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 2:53 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) The procedures for Canada Customs are here: http://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/E/pub/cp/rc4341/rc4341-e.html You need to call them before leaving the US (1-888-226-7277 at least two hours before your arrival time). Then after landing, if there is no Customs officer there to meet you, call them again. No one can leave the aircraft, except the pilot if he has to leave to make that phone call. Quite often they will not come out to meet the aircraft, and will simply give you a clearance number once you phone them after arrival in Canada. Also, due to US TSA requirements, you need to in communication with an ATC agency, and have a discrete transponder code when crossing the border. This can be accomplished by either being on an IFR flight plan, or being on flight following as you approach the border. You must be on a flight plan to cross the border. You also need to know that there are a few procedural differences in Canada. For example, circuit joining procedures are a bit different. A 45 to downwind is not on the list of approved entry procedures, so other traffic won't be looking for you if you do that entry. Instead, there is a midfield downwind entry, where you cross the field and join mid downwind. Kevin Horton On 10 Aug 2006, at 23:47, Steven DiNieri wrote: > > > I fly between Niagara falls and Toronto and can tell you I've also > never had to show anyone a radio license. The Canadian immigration are > great to deal with. I simply arrive at a port of entry, then from the > fbo call customs and they will ask questions and possibly visit you if > they feel the need. The problem is coming home. Once I was threatened > with incarceration for opening the aircraft canopy before the customs > agent said it was ok.....plus he was already pissed for me being 10 > minutes early. I think Part of my punishment was to sit and bake in > the sun...but don't despair, my marine experience has been exactly the > same. So I know they're not singling out flyboys and flygirls. > Steve d > 40205 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton > Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 3:34 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > > I have flown across the border hundreds of times, and no one has ever > asked to see my radio operators permit, nor the one for the aircraft. > They are much more worried about what type of food you might have > along, drugs, alcohol, guns, etc. Don't waste your time or money on > the radio permits. > > Kevin Horton > Ottawa, Canada > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Flying to Canada from US (and back)
Date: Aug 11, 2006
Wow, they really must be easy going. I was shown by my instructor 10 or so years ago, how to cross over the border, and it didnt include calling ahead. I really should learn the current regs. But I haven't received any slack for showing up unannounced...YET... although I always file a vfr flight plan. And I suppose it has an eta they may use, also the Toronto center controllers are talking to us most of the way, so I think they must know I'm coming. Thanks for the link, now I'll have to change my evil ways.... Steve 40205 The procedures for Canada Customs are here: http://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/E/pub/cp/rc4341/rc4341-e.html You need to call them before leaving the US (1-888-226-7277 at least two hours before your arrival time). Then after landing, if there is no Customs officer there to meet you, call them again. No one can leave the aircraft, except the pilot if he has to leave to make that phone call. Quite often they will not come out to meet the aircraft, and will simply give you a clearance number once you phone them after arrival in Canada. Also, due to US TSA requirements, you need to in communication with an ATC agency, and have a discrete transponder code when crossing the border. This can be accomplished by either being on an IFR flight plan, or being on flight following as you approach the border. You must be on a flight plan to cross the border. You also need to know that there are a few procedural differences in Canada. For example, circuit joining procedures are a bit different. A 45 to downwind is not on the list of approved entry procedures, so other traffic won't be looking for you if you do that entry. Instead, there is a midfield downwind entry, where you cross the field and join mid downwind. Kevin Horton On 10 Aug 2006, at 23:47, Steven DiNieri wrote: > > > I fly between Niagara falls and Toronto and can tell you I've also > never had > to show anyone a radio license. The Canadian immigration are great > to deal > with. I simply arrive at a port of entry, then from the fbo call > customs and > they will ask questions and possibly visit you if they feel the > need. The > problem is coming home. Once I was threatened with incarceration > for opening > the aircraft canopy before the customs agent said it was > ok.....plus he was > already pissed for me being 10 minutes early. I think Part of my > punishment > was to sit and bake in the sun...but dont despair, my marine > experience has > been exactly the same. So I know they're not singling out flyboys and > flygirls. > Steve d > 40205 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton > Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 3:34 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > > I have flown across the border hundreds of times, and no one has ever > asked to see my radio operators permit, nor the one for the > aircraft. They are much more worried about what type of food you > might have along, drugs, alcohol, guns, etc. Don't waste your time > or money on the radio permits. > > Kevin Horton > Ottawa, Canada > -- -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com>
Subject: Re: Max Altitude in an RV
Date: Aug 11, 2006
On Aug 11, 2006, at 7:38 AM, Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote: > Oh Kevin, > > I forgot to ask, where does one find these classes of records. I > have scoured the internet with no luck. > > Thanks > > Mike http://www.fai.org/ Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying Previous glider world record holder http://records.fai.org/gliding/ history.asp?id1=DW&id2=1&id3=19 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2006
Subject: Painter/Fiberglasser wanted
From: sjhdcl(at)kingston.net
I'm looking for a professional painter for my RV-7A. Not only am I looking for a painter but someone who is willing to put a little elbow grease into the fiberglass and provide a show quality job. I'm will have little opportunity to fly my aircraft between Nov 2006 and Feb 2007 and therefore was wondering if anybody knew someone that could paint the airplane during this time. My number one choice would be GLO Custom but I beleive the timing would be too tight for them. Any other suggestions? The airplane is currently near Toronto but I'm willing to fly it anywhere in Canada/US. Steve RV7A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2006
From: "James Clark" <jclarkmail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Max Altitude in an RV
Yup ... That's what I was trying to remember Mike. Also see: http://www.naa.aero/ for US only I think. James On 8/11/06, Larry Pardue wrote: > > > On Aug 11, 2006, at 7:38 AM, Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote: > > > Oh Kevin, > > > > I forgot to ask, where does one find these classes of records. I > > have scoured the internet with no luck. > > > > Thanks > > > > Mike > http://www.fai.org/ > > Larry Pardue > Carlsbad, NM > > RV-6 N441LP Flying > Previous glider world record holder http://records.fai.org/gliding/ > history.asp?id1=DW&id2=1&id3=19 > > -- This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at james(at)nextupventures.com . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Fitton" <fitton(at)cox.net>
Subject: COMMON SENSE
Date: Aug 11, 2006
The Sad Passing of Common Sense. Today we mourn the passing of a beloved old friend, Common Sense, who has been with us for many years. No one knows for sure how old he was since his birth records were long ago lost in bureaucratic red tape. He will be remembered as having cultivated such valuable lessons as knowing when to come in out of the rain, why the early bird gets the worm, life isn't always fair, and maybe it was my fault. Common Sense lived by simple, sound financial policies (don't spend more than you earn) and reliable parenting strategies (adults, not children, are in charge). His health began to deteriorate rapidly when well intentioned but overbearing regulations were set in place. Reports of a six-year-old boy charged with sexual harassment for kissing a classmate; teens suspended from school for using mouthwash after lunch; and a teacher fired for reprimanding an unruly student, only worsened his condition. Common Sense lost ground when parents attacked teachers for doing the job they themselves failed to do in disciplining their unruly children. It declined even further when schools were required to get parental consent to administer Panadol, sun lotion or a sticky plaster to a student but could not inform the parents when a student became pregnant and wanted to have an abortion. Common Sense lost the will to live as the Ten Commandments became contraband; churches became businesses; and criminals received better treatment than their victims. Common Sense took a beating when you couldn't defend yourself from a burglar in your own home with the burglar suing you for assault. Common Sense finally gave up the will to live after a woman failed to realize that a steaming cup of coffee was hot. She spilled a little in her lap and was promptly awarded a huge settlement. Common Sense was preceded in death by his parents, Truth and Trust; by his wife, Discretion; by his daughter, Responsibility; and by his son, Reason. He is survived by three stepbrothers: I Know My Rights, Someone Else is to Blame, and I'm A Victim. Not many attended his funeral because so few realized he was gone. If you still remember him, pass this on. If not, join the majority and do nothing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2006
From: Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Hotshots and Rules
In reference to all of the editorials on the Oshkosh accident, I would like to change the subject slightly. Many people have expressed concern for the pilot of the TBM accident aircraft at Oshkosh. Since I don't know him, I might say he may have been like a lot of other hotshot pilots I have met. Big airplane has the right of way, if you are in a smaller airplane you better get out of the way before you are run over. Many people want more rules and if Air Adventure was run by the Army, then the rules would end up like: no more than 3 aircraft on the taxiway at a time, 3 minute separation between takeoffs and mandatory wingwalkers for all aircraft. When you tell the Army that is unworkable, their answer would be, then don't come to Oshkosh! Rules sometimes make sense, but when the rule is designed to overcome a poor attitude and lack of good judgement then they become obnoxious. No one has yet made a rule for those who refuse to follow them and I know some pilots that are quite proud of their ability to violate the rules and get away with it. In my opinion the culprit of this accident was a "poor attitude." Poor attitude towards safety, rights of others and the generally acceptable rules and procedures. I believe we have enough rules that if followed would have prevented the accident. As my Uncle a long time USAF Pilot and Wing Safety Officer once told me, "the rules are written in blood! Those who do not follow them will rewrite them." I think the TBM pilot just rewrote one. Bob RV 6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com>
Subject: Syrian Factory Built RV-6A?
Date: Aug 11, 2006
http://www.aii-co.com/en/ava202.asp Why haven't I heard about this? Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://n5lp.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Hotshots and Rules
From: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 11, 2006
interesting read, and I can understand how somebody can jump to the conclusion that the TBM pilot was a hot heat. Personally I don't think so, but then again I'm not the one to judge that. I come across peope every day that have the perverbial hot head mentality. I am currently flying a little fly in the sky as compaired to the other aircraft I'm in contact with every day, literally every day because I fly every day generally. About 4 weeks ago I was doing touch and goes by myself, usually with the wife on my daily flies, and on final for the flight a Cessna Citation was on final and I of course work things out so he landed and I followed right behind, high and long on the landing. After I was down I put the fox away and went to pick up the wife at the FBO, she was flabergasted by the pilot of the Citation, seems he got the red carpet treatment, literally, my wife said the guy in the FBO said that they had to be prepaired to wipe this guys feet off and clean his airplane inside and out right on the spot. They are instructed never to speak to this guy unless spoken to first and when doing so you can't look in his eyes. Wow! is all I could say to myself. I don't like to make judgement on anybody, but people like this do bother me. I had somebody on the freeway two days ago in a fancy car and suit. He tried to pull in front of me, I said to myself, hay you rich son of a gun, who do you think you are? Then I thought hey wait a minute I make over 300k a year, hay buddy get in line. The reality is, you don't know who might be in that little airplane, could be the biggest jerk, or a nice guy. Same goes for the guy in that big airplane, could be the biggest jerk, or a nice guy. -------- kitfoxmike kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike rv7 wingkit reserved 287RV Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=54140#54140 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2006
From: "James Clark" <jclarkmail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Syrian Factory Built RV-6A?
Max level speed at Sea Level = 140kts????? (Must be without wheel pants). Looks like a 6A but then why would they do wind tunnel tests? Hmmmm. Interesting. James On 8/11/06, Larry Pardue wrote: > > > http://www.aii-co.com/en/ava202.asp > > Why haven't I heard about this? > > Larry Pardue > Carlsbad, NM > > RV-6 N441LP Flying > http://n5lp.net > > -- This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at james(at)nextupventures.com . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2006
From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Syrian Factory Built RV-6A?
On 10:26:14 2006-08-11 "James Clark" wrote: > Max level speed at Sea Level = 140kts????? (Must be without wheel > pants). > > Looks like a 6A but then why would they do wind tunnel tests? Hmmmm. Not sure if they are identical or not, but the ones built for the Nigerian Air Force had differences from the stock -6A. I think longer wings was one of the differences. Was it still aerobatic? With the change in configuration, maybe they wanted to confirm the design themselves before allowing it to be produced? If it's a certified airplane in (wherever it's built), maybe the wind tunnel tests were part of that certification. -Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Syrian Factory Built RV-6A?
Date: Aug 11, 2006
Sure looks like an RV-6A to me. Big question is Has Van's heard about it?! Dale ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 11:53 AM Subject: RV-List: Syrian Factory Built RV-6A? > > http://www.aii-co.com/en/ava202.asp > > Why haven't I heard about this? > > Larry Pardue > Carlsbad, NM > > RV-6 N441LP Flying > http://n5lp.net > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Doble" <mark(at)stratologic.net>
Subject: Re: Flying to Canada from US (and back)
Date: Aug 11, 2006
i'm planning on flying to Tornonto in the next month... Anyone that has flown the Canadian border a few times..... have you ever been asked for proof of $100,000 liability insurance? thanks, Mark. ps. not looking for any insurance recommendations....thanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2006
From: "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Syrian Factory Built RV-6A?
It has a 9 (28') wingspan but smaller tanks. Dave Dale Ensing wrote: > >Sure looks like an RV-6A to me. Big question is Has Van's heard about it?! >Dale > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> >To: >Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 11:53 AM >Subject: RV-List: Syrian Factory Built RV-6A? > > > > >> >>http://www.aii-co.com/en/ava202.asp >> >>Why haven't I heard about this? >> >>Larry Pardue >>Carlsbad, NM >> >>RV-6 N441LP Flying >>http://n5lp.net >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 11, 2006
Subject: Re: Ammeter question
In a message dated 8/11/06 4:41:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bertrv6(at)highstream.net writes: > Hi: > > All you experts in electrical....here is the question.. > when I turn the master switch, if I load any of the switches, such > as Taxi lights or Strobes anything at all, the Ammeter, shows Charge.. > that is needle goes to Positive...should be to discharge, negative. > > UP to last week,, everything was fine....since First flight.... > > It does same when Running engine... everything else seems to be fine/.. > > What say you....I should check...how to correct this. > > Thanks > > > Bert ======================== Bert: I'm guessing here but I would say that last week you had the same problem but you missed it. Sounds like the problem is the ammeter is installed backwards. If it isn't they you are missing something or not telling us the entire story. Engine OFF Master ON Lights ON AMMETER should show a DISCHARGE Turn the Lights OFF Start the engine Turn LIGHTS ON AMMETER should show a CHARGE Gots to ax a dumb question ... The Ammeter does show in BOTH directions ... charge and discharge? I know dumb, but had the same question asked about a meter that ONLY showed CHARGED direction. Barry "Chop'd Liver" "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third time." Yamashiada ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dorante(at)juno.com" <dorante(at)juno.com>
Date: Aug 12, 2006
Subject: Re: Ammeter question
Bert: In order to diagnose your problem, it would be very helpful to measure system voltage. Put a voltmeter across the battery. A fully charged batter should measure 12.0 - 12.5 VDC. Without the engine running, and some load, the voltage should start to drop. After starting the engine, the voltage should go up to 13.5 to 14.5VDC. This is the output voltage of the alternator (regulated). Increase the load on the electrical system by turning on landing lights, and other large loads, and the voltage should not change, maybe a slight drop. I have had problems with automotive ammeters. Some use a shunt resistor, and others pass the BATT wire through a coil. The latter type I have found to be troublesome because they require a straight length of wire going through the coil. I have found two very useful, inexpensive tools for troubleshooting charging system problems. First, a voltage/charging indicator using 3 LED's that plugs into a cigarette lighter. Radio Shack used to sell these for about $10. The good thing about this is that you do not have to be near the prop to record voltage. Second, a DC clamp on ammeter that can be placed on a battery cable. This ammeter is not real accurate, but it will show current direction and magnitude. I got mine from Sears years ago. When I finish my RV-6A, I will have only a Voltmeter in the panel. Voltage is a much better indicator of battery health and charging system operation than an ammeter. IMHO, ammeters are almost useless. Hope this helps. Tom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 11, 2006
Subject: Re: Painter/Fiberglasser wanted
In a message dated 08/11/2006 9:25:01 AM Central Daylight Time, sjhdcl(at)kingston.net writes: I'm looking for a professional painter for my RV-7A. http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5270 Still very pleased 1-1/2 yrs later. Mark Phillips http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com>
Subject: Syrian Factory Built RV-6A?
Date: Aug 11, 2006
Well, the 101 looks pretty familiar, and so does the 303, which they at least credit with the Polish manufacturer. My question; how big a market is there in Iran? Pat Kelley - RV-6A - in hangar now! Gear on and fitting wings. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Pardue Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 8:53 AM Subject: RV-List: Syrian Factory Built RV-6A? http://www.aii-co.com/en/ava202.asp Why haven't I heard about this? Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://n5lp.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Effect of paint on weight & balance
Date: Aug 12, 2006
I reweighed my RV8A today because I thought the paint job might make a significant change. Not only did the aircraft seem faster after being painted but the pitch control forces seemed lighter when flying single pilot. In previous posts, I have reported a significant increase in cruise speed when moving the moment arm aft, probably due to reduced pitch stability drag. Thinking about it, I realized that a lot more of the surface area of the aircraft is behind the balance point near the wing spar than in front of it, so it would make sense that the empty aircraft moment arm would be further aft once it was painted. Here are the actual numbers: Weight unpainted: 1051 Weight painted: 1077 Paint weight added: 26 lb Unpainted CG: 77.46 Painted CG: 78.53 inches aft of datum If you haven't weighed your airplane since painting and have occasion to load it near the aft limit, beware! You might loose pitch control. Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Effect of paint on weight & balance
Date: Aug 12, 2006
Using the same CALIBRATED scales: Unpainted: 1086 Painted: 1094 Weight gain from paint equal 8 pounds. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,932 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com ----Original Message Follows---- From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> Subject: RV-List: Effect of paint on weight & balance Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 08:01:22 -0400 --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" I reweighed my RV8A today because I thought the paint job might make a significant change. Not only did the aircraft seem faster after being painted but the pitch control forces seemed lighter when flying single pilot. In previous posts, I have reported a significant increase in cruise speed when moving the moment arm aft, probably due to reduced pitch stability drag. Thinking about it, I realized that a lot more of the surface area of the aircraft is behind the balance point near the wing spar than in front of it, so it would make sense that the empty aircraft moment arm would be further aft once it was painted. Here are the actual numbers: Weight unpainted: 1051 Weight painted: 1077 Paint weight added: 26 lb Unpainted CG: 77.46 Painted CG: 78.53 inches aft of datum If you haven't weighed your airplane since painting and have occasion to load it near the aft limit, beware! You might loose pitch control. Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2006
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Painter/Fiberglasser wanted
I used West to do my tail fairing. It also makes a dry micro which sands very well. But an RC modeller/varieze builder I know recommended I try the MGS stuff from Aircraft Spruce. It has better high temp tolerance than most epoxies and, since it has a fast and a slow catalyst which can be mixed together, you can adjust the working time over a broad range. This is useful in a hot climate. I made my cooling plenum from it. It also has a pretty low viscosity when you mix it and seems to wet out the cloth very well. My main point: It seems much, much stronger than West, especially when warm. Not good for making dry micro filler because it is so tough that it is too hard to sand. I finished my cowling with it and now use it on everything. I keep some West around to use to make filler. Dave Nellis wrote: >Epoxy will be more resiliant in all enviroments. >Check out West System Epoxy. You will get an >education. > >Dave > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Effect of paint on weight & balance
Date: Aug 12, 2006
On 12 Aug 2006, at 08:01, DAVID REEL wrote: > > Weight unpainted: 1051 > Weight painted: 1077 > Paint weight added: 26 lb > > Unpainted CG: 77.46 > Painted CG: 78.53 inches aft of datum > These numbers suggest that the average arm of the added weight would be about 122.8", which is about 3.5" aft of the nominal passenger position. Given that most of the large surface area of the wing is ahead of this, I would have expected the average arm of the added paint to be a bit further ahead. Could it be that one of the weighings had an error? Either a scale error, a levelling error, or a calculation error? Or, have other things been added to the aircraft since the first weighing? Were the same scales used for both weighings? Have the scales been calibrated? If not, is it possible that a different scale was used on the nose gear for the two weighings? Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Effect of paint on weight & balance
Date: Aug 12, 2006
On 12 Aug 2006, at 11:28, Kevin Horton wrote: > > On 12 Aug 2006, at 08:01, DAVID REEL wrote: > >> >> Weight unpainted: 1051 >> Weight painted: 1077 >> Paint weight added: 26 lb >> >> Unpainted CG: 77.46 >> Painted CG: 78.53 inches aft of datum >> > > These numbers suggest that the average arm of the added weight > would be about 122.8", which is about 3.5" aft of the nominal > passenger position. Given that most of the large surface area of > the wing is ahead of this, I would have expected the average arm of > the added paint to be a bit further ahead. > > Could it be that one of the weighings had an error? Either a scale > error, a levelling error, or a calculation error? Or, have other > things been added to the aircraft since the first weighing? Were > the same scales used for both weighings? Have the scales been > calibrated? If not, is it possible that a different scale was used > on the nose gear for the two weighings? > > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) > Ottawa, Canada > http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 > Typo - that should have been 121.8" arm for the added paint. But it still looks strange. Kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2006
From: gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: io360-a1b
Thanks Rhonda any resolution on the correct position of the steel ring in the governor drive adapter?? Gert Rhonda Bewley wrote: > > The 06A19956 part number is the superceding p/n for STD-2217 according > to the Lycoming Parts History manual. Probably no difference other than > who the vendor is that was used to produce the part number, or a process > change in how the seal was manufactured. > > Rhonda > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gert > Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 10:07 PM > To: rv-list; RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com > Subject: RV-List: io360-a1b > > > Hi Folks > > can anybody tell me the difference between the 06A19956 and STD2217 oil > seals, both are 7/8" i.d. x 1-1/2" o.d. x 5/16" wide. > according to the parts book, my vacuum pump adapter should have the > 06A19956 seal, but has the STD2217 seal and it needs replacing, > > > also, in the parts book, page 2-4 of the parts manual, it shows steel > ring #3 to sit on top of the drive gear, under the tail of #16. However > on page 5-4 of the overhaul manual as well as on page 1-23 of the limits > > and torque supplement, it shows the steel ring under the snapring > holding the shaft in place. I looked at two adapters, and wouldn't u > know, one had the ring on top and one had the ring at the bottom. > Anybody knows the correct placement?? > > any input greatly appreciated. > > > Thanks > > > Gert > > -- ------------------------------------------------------------------- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. -------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Effect of paint on weight & balance
Date: Aug 12, 2006
I noticed the same thing, and my paint weighed the same 26#. The paint shop did the second weighing -- different scales, personnel, etc. Yours is a light plane. http://www.rvproject.com/wab/wab.jsp?id' - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: DAVID REEL [mailto:dreel(at)cox.net] > Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 8:01 AM > To: rvlist > Subject: RV-List: Effect of paint on weight & balance > > > I reweighed my RV8A today because I thought the paint job > might make a significant change. Not only did the aircraft > seem faster after being painted but the pitch control forces > seemed lighter when flying single pilot. In previous posts, > I have reported a significant increase in cruise speed when > moving the moment arm aft, probably due to reduced pitch > stability drag. Thinking about it, I realized that a lot > more of the surface area of the aircraft is behind the > balance point near the wing spar than in front of it, so it > would make sense that the empty aircraft moment arm would be > further aft once it was painted. Here are the actual numbers: > > Weight unpainted: 1051 > Weight painted: 1077 > Paint weight added: 26 lb > > Unpainted CG: 77.46 > Painted CG: 78.53 inches aft of datum > > If you haven't weighed your airplane since painting and have > occasion to load it near the aft limit, beware! You might > loose pitch control. > > Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Effect of paint on weight & balance
Date: Aug 12, 2006
Larry, Just curious - what is your empty weight and CG, and how much did the empty CG move aft with the paint job? Kevin On 12 Aug 2006, at 14:57, Larry Bowen wrote: > > I noticed the same thing, and my paint weighed the same 26#. The > paint shop > did the second weighing -- different scales, personnel, etc. > > Yours is a light plane. > > http://www.rvproject.com/wab/wab.jsp?id' > > - > Larry Bowen > Larry(at)BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: DAVID REEL [mailto:dreel(at)cox.net] >> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 8:01 AM >> To: rvlist >> Subject: RV-List: Effect of paint on weight & balance >> >> >> I reweighed my RV8A today because I thought the paint job >> might make a significant change. Not only did the aircraft >> seem faster after being painted but the pitch control forces >> seemed lighter when flying single pilot. In previous posts, >> I have reported a significant increase in cruise speed when >> moving the moment arm aft, probably due to reduced pitch >> stability drag. Thinking about it, I realized that a lot >> more of the surface area of the aircraft is behind the >> balance point near the wing spar than in front of it, so it >> would make sense that the empty aircraft moment arm would be >> further aft once it was painted. Here are the actual numbers: >> >> Weight unpainted: 1051 >> Weight painted: 1077 >> Paint weight added: 26 lb >> >> Unpainted CG: 77.46 >> Painted CG: 78.53 inches aft of datum >> >> If you haven't weighed your airplane since painting and have >> occasion to load it near the aft limit, beware! You might >> loose pitch control. >> >> Dave Reel - RV8A > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Painter/Fiberglasser wanted
Date: Aug 12, 2006
Where is the painter located in Alabama please? And the name of company? Thanks Dale Ensing do not archieve ----- Original Message ----- From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 10:37 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Painter/Fiberglasser wanted In a message dated 08/11/2006 9:25:01 AM Central Daylight Time, sjhdcl(at)kingston.net writes: I'm looking for a professional painter for my RV-7A. http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=527 0 Still very pleased 1-1/2 yrs later. Mark Phillips http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: LSE Plugs...
Date: Aug 12, 2006
Bill, I am not where I can verify the number, but I think that I am using Denso last numbers are 27 ESRU ( ask Klaus). More expensive but perform better. Dick Martin RV8 N233M the fast one ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 8:44 PM Subject: RV-List: LSE Plugs... > > What are you all using for plug with your LSE systems? They came with > Denso > W24EMR-C plugs, but was wondering if anyone is using anything different... > > Thanks... > -Bill VonDane > RV-8A ~ www.rv8a.com > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net
Subject: Effect of paint on weight & balance
Date: Aug 13, 2006
FWIW, using the same calibrated electronic scales my RV-6 gained 17 pounds with paint (Jet Glo, not clear coated.) -- Harry Crosby RV-6 N16CX, 250hours -------------- Original message -------------- From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> > > > Using the same CALIBRATED scales: > > Unpainted: 1086 > Painted: 1094 > > Weight gain from paint equal 8 pounds. > > Gary A. Sobek > "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, > 1,932 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA > http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com > > > > ----Original Message Follows---- > From: "DAVID REEL" > Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > To: "rvlist" > Subject: RV-List: Effect of paint on weight & balance > Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 08:01:22 -0400 > > > I reweighed my RV8A today because I thought the paint job might make a > significant change. Not only did the aircraft seem faster after being > painted but the pitch control forces seemed lighter when flying single > pilot. In previous posts, I have reported a significant increase in cruise > speed when moving the moment arm aft, probably due to reduced pitch > stability drag. Thinking about it, I realized that a lot more of the > surface area of the aircraft is behind the balance point near the wing spar > than in front of it, so it would make sense that the empty aircraft moment > arm would be further aft once it was painted. Here are the actual numbers: > > Weight unpainted: 1051 > Weight painted: 1077 > Paint weight added: 26 lb > > Unpainted CG: 77.46 > Painted CG: 78.53 inches aft of datum > > If you haven't weighed your airplane since painting and have occasion to > load it near the aft limit, beware! You might loose pitch control. > > Dave Reel - RV8A > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
FWIW,  using the same calibrated electronic scales my RV-6 gained 17 pounds with paint (Jet Glo, not clear coated.)
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 250hours
 
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com> <BR><BR>> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <RV6_FLYER@HOTMAIL.COM><BR>> <BR>> <BR>> Using the same CALIBRATED scales: <BR>> <BR>> Unpainted: 1086 <BR>> Painted: 1094 <BR>> <BR>> Weight gain from paint equal 8 pounds. <BR>> <BR>> Gary A. Sobek <BR>> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, <BR>> 1,932 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA <BR>> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> ----Original Message Follows---- <BR>> From: "DAVID REEL" <DREEL@COX.NET><BR>> Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com <BR>> To: "rvlist" <RV-LIST@MATRONICS.COM><BR>> Subject: RV-List: Effect of paint on weight & balance <BR>> Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2006 08:01:22 -0400 <BR>> <BR>> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <DREE L@COX. NET>
>
> I reweighed my RV8A today because I thought the paint job might make a
> significant change. Not only did the aircraft seem faster after being
> painted but the pitch control forces seemed lighter when flying single
> pilot. In previous posts, I have reported a significant increase in cruise
> speed when moving the moment arm aft, probably due to reduced pitch
> stability drag. Thinking about it, I realized that a lot more of the
> surface area of the aircraft is behind the balance point near the wing spar
> than in front of it, so it would make sense that the empty aircraft moment
> arm would be further aft once it was painted. Here are the actual numbers:
>
> Weight unpainted: 1051
> Weight painted: 1077
> Paint weight added: 26 lb
>
> Unpainted CG: 77.46
> Painted CG: 78.53 inches aft of datum
>
> If you haven't weighed your airplane since o avai ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Effect of paint on weight & balance
Date: Aug 12, 2006
Before paint: 1106 and 77.08. After paint: 1130 and 79.11. That's obviously a 24 pound gain after paint, not 26 as I said before. Mine is a PPG base-coat/clear coat. Cheers, - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Kevin Horton [mailto:khorton01(at)rogers.com] > Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 3:33 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Effect of paint on weight & balance > > > Larry, > > Just curious - what is your empty weight and CG, and how much > did the empty CG move aft with the paint job? > > Kevin > > On 12 Aug 2006, at 14:57, Larry Bowen wrote: > > > > > I noticed the same thing, and my paint weighed the same 26#. The > > paint shop did the second weighing -- different scales, personnel, > > etc. > > > > Yours is a light plane. > > > > http://www.rvproject.com/wab/wab.jsp?id' > > > > - > > Larry Bowen > > Larry(at)BowenAero.com > > http://BowenAero.com > > > > > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: DAVID REEL [mailto:dreel(at)cox.net] > >> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 8:01 AM > >> To: rvlist > >> Subject: RV-List: Effect of paint on weight & balance > >> > >> > >> I reweighed my RV8A today because I thought the paint job > might make > >> a significant change. Not only did the aircraft seem faster after > >> being painted but the pitch control forces seemed lighter > when flying > >> single pilot. In previous posts, I have reported a significant > >> increase in cruise speed when moving the moment arm aft, > probably due > >> to reduced pitch stability drag. Thinking about it, I > realized that > >> a lot more of the surface area of the aircraft is behind > the balance > >> point near the wing spar than in front of it, so it would > make sense > >> that the empty aircraft moment arm would be further aft > once it was > >> painted. Here are the actual numbers: > >> > >> Weight unpainted: 1051 > >> Weight painted: 1077 > >> Paint weight added: 26 lb > >> > >> Unpainted CG: 77.46 > >> Painted CG: 78.53 inches aft of datum > >> > >> If you haven't weighed your airplane since painting and > have occasion > >> to load it near the aft limit, beware! You might loose pitch > >> control. > >> > >> Dave Reel - RV8A > > > > > > > > Photoshare, and much much more: > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net>
Subject: RE: Effect of paint on weight & balance
Date: Aug 13, 2006
Both weights were taken with the same set of certified digital scales borrowed from my local EAA chapter. Same procedure was used in each case though 5 months intervened. I believe the results to be quite accurate. It's good to see that Larry got similar results. I had bare metal & fiberglass surfaces in the initial weight. Alan Woodson's Texas Aero Color provided pinhole filling and all the rest. I'm quite satisfied with the paint job & enjoyed working with Alan, but I envy you guys with 8 lb paint jobs. Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2006
From: "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Ammeter question
Bert, The battery can't cause this kind of problem. If you're using a "standard" type of ammeter with an internal or external shunt, it almost has to be a wiring error. Maybe you just didn't notice it before. Dave B. -6 So Cal Eaa Technical Counselor bertrv6(at)highstream.net wrote: >> This is my surprise too...I got other e mails, some suggest that >> >> >the battery is the problem,, I do not know why this would be.. >I will keep checking around, is a challenging mistery... > >thanks > >bert > > >>>>Hi: >>>> >>>>All you experts in electrical....here is the question.. >>>>when I turn the master switch, if I load any of the switches, such >>>>as Taxi lights or Strobes anything at all, the Ammeter, shows Charge.. >>>>that is needle goes to Positive...should be to discharge, negative. >>>> >>>>UP to last week,, everything was fine....since First flight.... >>>> >>>>It does same when Running engine... everything else seems to be fine/.. >>>> >>>>What say you....I should check...how to correct this. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
Subject: SLA's and the SportCruiser
Date: Aug 13, 2006
Jim, I don't have a "bad taste" in my mouth for my RV8, it is in fact an award winner and featured this month on the cover of our main flying monthly. See : http://www.loop.aero I aim to fly over a hundred passengers to convert them this year (I am nearly half way). However, the RV8 design has some flaws, and talking to RV8 owners in Sweden last weekend at an RV fly-in, some pilots have even gone to the extent of modifying the wing fuselage interface, as well as basic things like pilot ergonomics and undercarriage, no design is perfect. In some areas the RV8 excels in others it is poor. The analysis of my RV8 also pertains to my view of SLA's, they have limitations on pilot weight and load, they are not as fast, but they also have a number of benefits, not least of which is operating costs, which will be an increasingly important factor in years to come (even in the US). The jury has yet to convene on the RV12, but based on looks I don't think I will be head of the queue. You say ... > ........ If you own your own RV in England, that says you're pretty > well off. Your statement that started this discussion hinted at that and > made me cringe because it seemed a bit arrogant. To be fair, I've known > other Englishers who were a tad arrogant, to me. Jim, you are making assumptions here that are way off the mark ... but I like your sense of humour. As to list eligibility, I suggest that pilots that have a broad flying interest in terms of type and geography can bring a different perspective to what would otherwise be a rather uniform RV grin. The sun is finally appearing from behind the clouds and rain and it is time to go and fly. Rgds, Nic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Effect of paint on weight & balance
Date: Aug 13, 2006
Very strange. Before paint moment = 1106 * 77.08 = 85,250.48 After paint moment = 1130 * 79.11 = 89,394.3 A moment change of 4,143.82 for a weight change of 24 lb implies an arm of 172.66" for the added paint. There is no way the centre of the paint is that far aft (well aft of the rear baggage compartment), so one of the weighings must be wrong. Be careful on your weighings guys. Kevin Horton On 12 Aug 2006, at 22:40, Larry Bowen wrote: > > Before paint: 1106 and 77.08. > After paint: 1130 and 79.11. > > That's obviously a 24 pound gain after paint, not 26 as I said > before. Mine > is a PPG base-coat/clear coat. > > Cheers, > > - > Larry Bowen > Larry(at)BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Kevin Horton [mailto:khorton01(at)rogers.com] >> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 3:33 PM >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Effect of paint on weight & balance >> >> >> Larry, >> >> Just curious - what is your empty weight and CG, and how much >> did the empty CG move aft with the paint job? >> >> Kevin >> >> On 12 Aug 2006, at 14:57, Larry Bowen wrote: >> >>> >>> I noticed the same thing, and my paint weighed the same 26#. The >>> paint shop did the second weighing -- different scales, personnel, >>> etc. >>> >>> Yours is a light plane. >>> >>> http://www.rvproject.com/wab/wab.jsp?id' >>> >>> - >>> Larry Bowen >>> Larry(at)BowenAero.com >>> http://BowenAero.com >>> >>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: DAVID REEL [mailto:dreel(at)cox.net] >>>> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 8:01 AM >>>> To: rvlist >>>> Subject: RV-List: Effect of paint on weight & balance >>>> >>>> >>>> I reweighed my RV8A today because I thought the paint job >> might make >>>> a significant change. Not only did the aircraft seem faster after >>>> being painted but the pitch control forces seemed lighter >> when flying >>>> single pilot. In previous posts, I have reported a significant >>>> increase in cruise speed when moving the moment arm aft, >> probably due >>>> to reduced pitch stability drag. Thinking about it, I >> realized that >>>> a lot more of the surface area of the aircraft is behind >> the balance >>>> point near the wing spar than in front of it, so it would >> make sense >>>> that the empty aircraft moment arm would be further aft >> once it was >>>> painted. Here are the actual numbers: >>>> >>>> Weight unpainted: 1051 >>>> Weight painted: 1077 >>>> Paint weight added: 26 lb >>>> >>>> Unpainted CG: 77.46 >>>> Painted CG: 78.53 inches aft of datum >>>> >>>> If you haven't weighed your airplane since painting and >> have occasion >>>> to load it near the aft limit, beware! You might loose pitch >>>> control. >>>> >>>> Dave Reel - RV8A >>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2006
Subject: Re: Effect of paint on weight & balance
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Sounds like *perhaps* the second group of wieghers left the tail down, despite my explicit directions to raise it. Sigh. Not surprising. The virtual averages for RV-8's here reinforce what you are saying: http://www.rvproject.com/wab/index.jsp Thanks for pointing it out. -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com Kevin Horton wrote: > > Very strange. > > Before paint moment = 1106 * 77.08 = 85,250.48 > After paint moment = 1130 * 79.11 = 89,394.3 > > A moment change of 4,143.82 for a weight change of 24 lb implies an > arm of 172.66" for the added paint. There is no way the centre of > the paint is that far aft (well aft of the rear baggage compartment), > so one of the weighings must be wrong. > > Be careful on your weighings guys. > > Kevin Horton > > > On 12 Aug 2006, at 22:40, Larry Bowen wrote: > >> >> Before paint: 1106 and 77.08. >> After paint: 1130 and 79.11. >> >> That's obviously a 24 pound gain after paint, not 26 as I said >> before. Mine >> is a PPG base-coat/clear coat. >> >> Cheers, >> >> - >> Larry Bowen >> Larry(at)BowenAero.com >> http://BowenAero.com >> >> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Kevin Horton [mailto:khorton01(at)rogers.com] >>> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 3:33 PM >>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Effect of paint on weight & balance >>> >>> >>> Larry, >>> >>> Just curious - what is your empty weight and CG, and how much >>> did the empty CG move aft with the paint job? >>> >>> Kevin >>> >>> On 12 Aug 2006, at 14:57, Larry Bowen wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> I noticed the same thing, and my paint weighed the same 26#. The >>>> paint shop did the second weighing -- different scales, personnel, >>>> etc. >>>> >>>> Yours is a light plane. >>>> >>>> http://www.rvproject.com/wab/wab.jsp?id' >>>> >>>> - >>>> Larry Bowen >>>> Larry(at)BowenAero.com >>>> http://BowenAero.com >>>> >>>> >>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>> From: DAVID REEL [mailto:dreel(at)cox.net] >>>>> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 8:01 AM >>>>> To: rvlist >>>>> Subject: RV-List: Effect of paint on weight & balance >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I reweighed my RV8A today because I thought the paint job >>> might make >>>>> a significant change. Not only did the aircraft seem faster after >>>>> being painted but the pitch control forces seemed lighter >>> when flying >>>>> single pilot. In previous posts, I have reported a significant >>>>> increase in cruise speed when moving the moment arm aft, >>> probably due >>>>> to reduced pitch stability drag. Thinking about it, I >>> realized that >>>>> a lot more of the surface area of the aircraft is behind >>> the balance >>>>> point near the wing spar than in front of it, so it would >>> make sense >>>>> that the empty aircraft moment arm would be further aft >>> once it was >>>>> painted. Here are the actual numbers: >>>>> >>>>> Weight unpainted: 1051 >>>>> Weight painted: 1077 >>>>> Paint weight added: 26 lb >>>>> >>>>> Unpainted CG: 77.46 >>>>> Painted CG: 78.53 inches aft of datum >>>>> >>>>> If you haven't weighed your airplane since painting and >>> have occasion >>>>> to load it near the aft limit, beware! You might loose pitch >>>>> control. >>>>> >>>>> Dave Reel - RV8A >>>> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2006
From: bertrv6(at)highstream.net
Subject: Re: Ammeter question
Quoting "D.Bristol" : > Bert, > > The battery can't cause this kind of problem. If you're using a > "standard" type of ammeter with an internal or external shunt, it almost > has to be a wiring error. Maybe you just didn't notice it before. > > Dave B. -6 So Cal > Eaa Technical Counselor > > Thanks Dave: Everything was working fine, since first flight, I will let you know when the A &P come over to check.. If was working before. Is only 2 wires to the ammeter a + land -..if you reverse them, tha is it for the gauge. I will bes ruined... So that is not the problem... Bert > bertrv6(at)highstream.net wrote: > > >> This is my surprise too...I got other e mails, some suggest that > >> > >> > >the battery is the problem,, I do not know why this would be.. > >I will keep checking around, is a challenging mistery... > > > >thanks > > > >bert > > > > > >>>>Hi: > >>>> > >>>>All you experts in electrical....here is the question.. > >>>>when I turn the master switch, if I load any of the switches, such > >>>>as Taxi lights or Strobes anything at all, the Ammeter, shows Charge.. > >>>>that is needle goes to Positive...should be to discharge, negative. > >>>> > >>>>UP to last week,, everything was fine....since First flight.... > >>>> > >>>>It does same when Running engine... everything else seems to be fine/.. > >>>> > >>>>What say you....I should check...how to correct this. > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dorante(at)juno.com" <dorante(at)juno.com>
Date: Aug 13, 2006
Subject: Re: Ammeter question
Bert: In your email, you said "Is only 2 wires to the ammeter a + land -..if you reverse them, tha is it for the gauge. I will bes ruined..." Reversing the wires on the ammeter will not ruin it. It will only make the ammeter indicate backwards. A full current ammeter is wired in-line with the main load wire from the battery. All current going into or out of the battery must go through this wire,except the starter motor, which is wired in parallel. The ammeter would be overloaded trying to measure the hundreds of amps of starter current. I have seen some charging circuits that have the ammeter leads connecting to the voltage regulator. This is used so that full current is not going through the ammeter. If this is the case in your RV, the regulator could be at fault. I recommended in an earlier email checking system voltage, with and without engine running. If you were able to do this, how were your readings? I hope the A&P can help you. Let's us know how your problem was solved. TOM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2006
From: "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Ammeter question
Reversing the wires to the gauge (or the shunt) will not harm it, it will just read backwards. Dave bertrv6(at)highstream.net wrote: > >Quoting "D.Bristol" : > > > >>Bert, >> >>The battery can't cause this kind of problem. If you're using a >>"standard" type of ammeter with an internal or external shunt, it almost >>has to be a wiring error. Maybe you just didn't notice it before. >> >>Dave B. -6 So Cal >>Eaa Technical Counselor >> >>Thanks Dave: >> >> > >Everything was working fine, since first flight, I will let you know when >the A &P come over to check.. If was working before. Is only 2 wires to >the ammeter a + land -..if you reverse them, tha is it for the gauge. I will >bes ruined... > >So that is not the problem... > >Bert > > > > >>bertrv6(at)highstream.net wrote: >> >> >> >>>> This is my surprise too...I got other e mails, some suggest that >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>the battery is the problem,, I do not know why this would be.. >>>I will keep checking around, is a challenging mistery... >>> >>>thanks >>> >>>bert >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>>>>Hi: >>>>>> >>>>>>All you experts in electrical....here is the question.. >>>>>>when I turn the master switch, if I load any of the switches, such >>>>>>as Taxi lights or Strobes anything at all, the Ammeter, shows Charge.. >>>>>>that is needle goes to Positive...should be to discharge, negative. >>>>>> >>>>>>UP to last week,, everything was fine....since First flight.... >>>>>> >>>>>>It does same when Running engine... everything else seems to be fine/.. >>>>>> >>>>>>What say you....I should check...how to correct this. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
Subject: amp gauge
Date: Aug 13, 2006
It sounds like the shunt is wired backwards. And that won't matter if it's digital or a d'arsonval movement. Does the unit have an internal shunt or external shunt? If the big fat wires go to the gauge it has an internal shunt. If so reverse them. If it's external then reverse the small wires going from the shunt to the gauge. A shunt/gauge wired in the battery to buss line is called an Amp Meter and reads in plus for battery charging, and in minus for battery discharging. In this case the entire system load should be no more than 80% of the generator's continuous rated capacity. The extra 20% is for battery charging. If the shunt gauge is wired into the line between the generator and the buss it is properly called a Load Meter and only reads in the plus for any generator output, and you can have the system total load equal to the max continuous load rating of the generator. This is because you can see what the total output of the generator is using this type of gauge installation including that which is charging the battery. In this discussion "generator" includes alternators, it specifically assumes we are talking about max continuous rated output, which many automotive alternator ratings do not comply with. (Some of you may argue this, but I've tested many automotive alternators on the bench and they often over heat at their rated output eventually, their aircraft cousins don't) And it assumes you wish to be in compliance with the certified standards, which in this case do make a lot of sense even though it is not required. And if one wants to use an amp gauge(reads + & -) for both one can install two shunts and use a DPDT toggle switch to feed either shunt to the one amp gauge(in Load Meter mode it just uses the plus side). I usually leave mine in Load Meter mode, but it is occasionally nice to see what the battery is doing particularly right after start. W ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2006
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Effect of paint on weight & balance
Well I can't certify the W&B measurement, but paint will move the CG aft quite a bit. Look at how much surface area is aft of the CG. Most of the paint is aft. The centroid of the paint if you will will be at or aft the baggage area. The aft fuselage and tail is a lot of area. Forward of the CG there's not that much paint. I agree that 2" shift is a lot. G >From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Effect of paint on weight & balance > >posted by: Kevin Horton > >Very strange. > >Before paint moment = 1106 * 77.08 = 85,250.48 >After paint moment = 1130 * 79.11 = 89,394.3 > >A moment change of 4,143.82 for a weight change of 24 lb implies an >arm of 172.66" for the added paint. There is no way the centre of >the paint is that far aft (well aft of the rear baggage compartment), >so one of the weightings must be wrong. --------------------------------- Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: wing fillets
Date: Aug 14, 2006
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Actually Chuck, you've got the drag part backwards. It goes against intuition but in theory, a non-filleted 90 deg intersection is the lowest drag. The RV is close enough to 90 deg that the fillet will increase drag. The F4U Corsair used it - bent wing and round fuselage gave them a perfect 90 deg intersection - no fillets needed. Van and Chance Vought knew what they were doing. Flight characteristic changes with fillets are a different thing and could be good or bad. Greg Young > > I assumed Nic's reference to the wing/fuselage design > deficiency was due to the 90 degree intersection, which is > well understood to be 'draggy' and not as efficient as a > faired/filleted one. But the fillet negatively impacts > flight characteristics? Any further info on that or was it > just a recollection to that effect? > > Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gordon or marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: wing fillets
Date: Aug 14, 2006
-----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 4:12 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: wing fillets I'll be....not the first, and certainly not the last thing that I've had backwards. I have no idea where I came up with the belief that a fillet would reduce drag over a 90 degree intersection--probably the same place that a lot of people come up with their 'aeronautical' ideas. Chuck Jensen > Actually Chuck, you've got the drag part backwards. It goes > against intuition but in theory, a non-filleted 90 deg > intersection is the lowest drag. The RV is close enough to 90 > deg that the fillet will increase drag. The F4U Corsair used > it - bent wing and round fuselage gave them a perfect 90 deg > intersection - no fillets needed. Van and Chance Vought knew > what they were doing. Flight characteristic changes with > fillets are a different thing and could be good or bad. Chuck: If drag at max speed is all you are concerned about, the fillet is not needed. A good seal is important however. Where the fillet may be expected to help is at higher angles of attack, i.e. near and at the stall. Lower stall speeds should result. I think that the earlier discussion about buffeting relates to the RV-8's reported tail shake a few knots above the stall, thought to be a result of disturbed flow from the wing root/landing gear shank area. Several builders addressed this with fillets, local flow control devices, etc. and reportedly made a difference but perhaps at the expense of stall warning. At least one -8 builder told me he didn't recommend others do what he did because of the above. I guess he thought most people were not as skilled as he. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gordon or marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com>
Subject: Re: Request for updates: E-Mags
Date: Aug 14, 2006
If anyone on the list has recent experience with E-Mags/P-Mags and is willing to share their observations, good and bad, I would appreciate hearing from you. If you would be willing to talk to my engine builder that would be great also. I am currently trying to decide whether to use them with a regular fuel injection system or to wait for the development of the Precision Eagle system. In either case G & N will set the system up in their test cell but currently they have little info on the E-Mag and really would like me to use the Eagle. The installed weight of the Eagle will be higher by about the weight of the backup battery chosen and the cost will be greater by a grand or a little more. The Eagle has a lot of boxes. Thanks a lot. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: J2j3h4(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 14, 2006
Subject: Engine for sale
Since I have been informed that I cannot pass my medical, I am forced to abandon my RV 7 project and have an engine for sale. It is a Lycoming 0-320 (no suffix - this is apparently one of the earliest) complete with mags, carb, alternator, & starter (no flywheel/starter ring). It has a hollow crankshaft to allow the use of a constant-speed prop. I have the logs for the engine. In the log book, the designation TC #274 follows the model number. The serial no. is 3876-27. It is the 150 HP version and can run on auto gas. The first log entry was 5/14/56. The engine was removed from a Piper-20-150 on 6/1/93 for replacement by a larger engine and has been in storage ever since. At the time of its removal it had 1995 hours SMOH and 4399 total hours. It is located at Ellington Airport (LUG) near Lewisburg, TN. Based on similar engines I have seen advertised, I am asking $6500 and will provide free shipping at this price, but will consider reasonable offers. Jim Hasper ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "don wentz" <dasduck(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Request for updates: E-Mags
Date: Aug 14, 2006
Gordon, I had a very early emag and it had the 'occasional miss' issue. After a year I sent it in to get 'updated' to fix that issue. They said the unit was 'too old' to update, and sent me a brand new unit, free of charge! It was easier to install, has a better connector setup, and doesn't miss. I'm very happy with my emag so far. Dw RV-6 930hrs -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gordon or marge Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 4:47 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: Request for updates: E-Mags If anyone on the list has recent experience with E-Mags/P-Mags and is willing to share their observations, good and bad, I would appreciate hearing from you. If you would be willing to talk to my engine builder that would be great also. I am currently trying to decide whether to use them with a regular fuel injection system or to wait for the development of the Precision Eagle system. In either case G & N will set the system up in their test cell but currently they have little info on the E-Mag and really would like me to use the Eagle. The installed weight of the Eagle will be higher by about the weight of the backup battery chosen and the cost will be greater by a grand or a little more. The Eagle has a lot of boxes. Thanks a lot. Gordon Comfort N363GC -- -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2006
From: "JACK LOCKAMY" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net>
Subject: =?utf-8?Q?[PHISHING]: Camarillo Airshow?
------------------------------------------------------------------------ --------------------------- Panda Titanium 2006 Antivirus + Antispyware has detected that this emai l could be spoofed Take maximum precautions, as spoofed emails could be the sign of a fraud attempt. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ --------------------------- Just a reminder, if you need a weekend destination... The Camarillo (KCM A) Air Show is this weekend......Aug. 19 & 20th. http://www.camarilloairshow.com/ Jack Lockamy Camarillo, CA ww.jacklockamy.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------ --------------------------- Panda Titanium 2006 Antivirus + Antispyware has detected that this emai l could be spoofed Take maximum precautions, as spoofed emails could be the sign of a fraud attempt. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ --------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: io360-a1b
Date: Aug 15, 2006
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
The governor drive shaft has a thrust surface, therefore the 'steel ring' which is actually a thrust washer installs between the housing and retaining ring. The picture in some of the parts catalogs that show the ring directly under the gear end of the drive shaft is a typo. Allen Barrett BPE, Inc. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gert Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 12:42 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: io360-a1b Thanks Rhonda any resolution on the correct position of the steel ring in the governor drive adapter?? Gert Rhonda Bewley wrote: > > The 06A19956 part number is the superceding p/n for STD-2217 according > to the Lycoming Parts History manual. Probably no difference other than > who the vendor is that was used to produce the part number, or a process > change in how the seal was manufactured. > > Rhonda > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gert > Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 10:07 PM > To: rv-list; RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com > Subject: RV-List: io360-a1b > > > Hi Folks > > can anybody tell me the difference between the 06A19956 and STD2217 oil > seals, both are 7/8" i.d. x 1-1/2" o.d. x 5/16" wide. > according to the parts book, my vacuum pump adapter should have the > 06A19956 seal, but has the STD2217 seal and it needs replacing, > > > also, in the parts book, page 2-4 of the parts manual, it shows steel > ring #3 to sit on top of the drive gear, under the tail of #16. However > on page 5-4 of the overhaul manual as well as on page 1-23 of the limits > > and torque supplement, it shows the steel ring under the snapring > holding the shaft in place. I looked at two adapters, and wouldn't u > know, one had the ring on top and one had the ring at the bottom. > Anybody knows the correct placement?? > > any input greatly appreciated. > > > Thanks > > > Gert > > -- ------------------------------------------------------------------- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. -------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jan <jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Cabe exit for the MAC servo - Elevator RV6
Date: Aug 15, 2006
Can anyone recommend the best cable exit for the MAC servo on a RV6. I have seen people using the original hole in the main spar E602 (which was for the manual cable) ... and I have seen people drilling a new hole in the small side spar E609. In the Elevator horn - close to the tube... Appreciate advice on this. Best regards Jan RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2006
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: wing fillets
I don't think anyone did formal analysis of the wing fillet or wrote and article. I know cafe foundation did not do a report. If any SA article was printed I don't recall any detail analysis or comparison. However I do know a RV'er who tried it and went back to stock wing-body faring because he found no measurable change in performance. One thing no one mentioned is when you install one of these big wing junction fairings you introduce a bunch of small detail. You end up with another edge along the fuselage and extra fasteners. Usually made of fiberglass, the aftermarket fairings have more thickness at the edge where the fairing laps over the wing and fuselage. The stock aluminum fairing is very thin and has no edge lapped up onto the fuselage. Just from the above EDGE FACTOR" what ever gain you get will likely be negated buy extra drag from the installation. If you have a custom wing to side of body fairing you may be able to feather all edges making this less of an issue, at the expense of extra work and possible body fillers. I hear the theories about the wing is near 90 degrees and the Corsair F4U and other comments, which may be true, but until you do wind tunnel work or better flight test, you don't know. A well designed and installed (no draggy details) wing root fillet fairing could improve "intersection drag". I say COULD, but like all things in aerospace design there are trade-offs, compromises and the famous no free lunch rule. Gain verses extra weight and more details? Even if perfectly executed, it's likely this modification will produce only small benefit. The off the shelf fairings are too small (radius wise) and have poor installation details. The fairing should blend right into the mating surfaces of the wing and fuselage with no edge or protruding fasteners. The plan flat stock Van's set up provides a light weight, simple, least attach hardware and holes. As far as drag it is pretty good and if you could improve it in any way with a swoopy fillet, wing root to body junction faring, it would be hard to measure. Often fiberglass fairings start to warp and gap after time, especially a big wing body fairing with long straight edges. I had the ORIGINAL fillet wing/body faring on my RV-4, which had a wrap-around fiberglass wing leading edge cuff. The remainder of the fairing was made with aluminum sheet fillet on top, flat aluminum on bottom. As with Van's designs, it was pretty darn good. Again you still need fasteners in the fuselage. It was OK, but I replace it with the newer style flat faring; it was just cleaner looking. I did not do a before after because I made several changes at the same time. George RV-4/RV-7 --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jim-bean(at)att.net
Subject: Wandering Compass
Date: Aug 15, 2006
all, I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel mount, not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin 430 is about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels so the main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop be magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error rather than swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk? Confused Jim Bean N99JA 37 hours. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: canopy care
Date: Aug 15, 2006
Hi All- I've been searching the archives with squat for success, so I'll toss this out to the list. I find myself using various solvents in some proximity to my canopy on occasion. Can anyone post a simple list that describes the relative hazard factor for various fluids, like: acetone, toluene, MEK are instant disaster; alcohol, gasoline, naptha are damaging over time, water is fine? TIA, fellas- glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Cabe exit for the MAC servo - Elevator RV6
Date: Aug 15, 2006
Jan, I used the original hole on my -6A and it has worked well. Just takes a little work to get the wire bundle protected properly and adjusted for correct length. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jan" <jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:06 PM Subject: RV-List: Cabe exit for the MAC servo - Elevator RV6 > > Can anyone recommend the best cable exit for the MAC servo on a RV6. I have > seen people using the original hole in the main spar E602 (which was for the > manual cable) ... and I have seen people drilling a new hole in the small > side spar E609. In the Elevator horn - close to the tube... > > Appreciate advice on this. > > Best regards > > Jan > RV6 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Wandering Compass
Date: Aug 15, 2006
I have never seen a panel mounted compass that works in an RV. Mine would never swing east, no matter what.... The only one I have ever seen work is above panel mount. -Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim-bean(at)att.net Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 7:33 PM Subject: RV-List: Wandering Compass all, I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel mount, not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin 430 is about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels so the main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop be magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error rather than swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk? Confused Jim Bean N99JA 37 hours. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2006
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: canopy care
Kerosene is ok, it will clean off tape goo with out hurting it. My new email address: bobbyhester(at)charter.net Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ RV7A N857BH SB wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-) glen matejcek wrote: > Hi All- > > I've been searching the archives with squat for success, so I'll toss > this out to the list. I find myself using various solvents in some > proximity to my canopy on occasion. Can anyone post a simple list > that describes the relative hazard factor for various fluids, like: > acetone, toluene, MEK are instant disaster; alcohol, gasoline, naptha > are damaging over time, water is fine? > > TIA, fellas- > > glen matejcek > aerobubba(at)earthlink.net > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: canopy care
>I've been searching the archives with squat for success, so I'll toss this >out to the list. I find myself using various solvents in some proximity >to my canopy on occasion. Can anyone post a simple list that describes >the relative hazard factor for various fluids, like: acetone, toluene, >MEK are instant disaster; alcohol, gasoline, naptha are damaging over >time, water is fine? > What a coincidence. Todays Light Plane Maintenance covers this very topic. Assuming acrylic window: Ammonia is bad as are aromatic solvents (MEK, acetone, lacquer thinner, gasoline paint stripper. Safest solvents are 100% mineral spirits (odorless is best), kerosene. Try to find a copy (Sep 2006) for all the details. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2006
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wandering Compass
My whiskey compass would swing crazily in response to control stick movements on the ground.. the pax stick was magnetized and too near the compass. A switch to aluminum tube for the right stick corrected this. I have no clue why Van supplies steel for this part when aluminum seems plenty robust for the task and is lighter and nonmagnetic. I plan to replace the pilot's stick with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing - haven't bothered to look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the pounds take care of themselves... -Stormy On 8/15/06, jim-bean(at)att.net wrote: > > > all, > I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel > mount, > not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries > substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin > 430 is > about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels so > the > main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop be > magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error rather > than > swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk? > Confused > Jim Bean > N99JA 37 hours. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 15, 2006
Subject: Re: canopy care
In a message dated 8/15/2006 4:57:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, aerobubba(at)earthlink.net writes: I've been searching the archives with squat for success, so I'll toss this out to the list. I find myself using various solvents in some proximity to my canopy on occasion. Can anyone post a simple list that describes the relative hazard factor for various fluids, like: acetone, toluene, MEK are instant disaster; alcohol, gasoline, naptha are damaging over time, water is fine? ================================ If I recall my materials science, there is a rating called a Kauri Butanol Factor (sp) that is a good relative rating of solvency for purposes of dissolving resins and such. Just guessing, I would imagine that a solvency list for Acrylic would go something like this, from worst to best: MEK, Methylene Chloride, Ethyl Ether, Acetone, other Ketones, TCE, TCA, Gasoline and other Benzenes, Freons, Alcohols, Naphtha (white gas), Terpenes (Turpentine, d-Limonene and similar), Water. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 804hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 16, 2006
Subject: Re: Wandering Compass
In a message dated 8/15/06 7:38:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jim-bean(at)att.net writes: > all, > I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel > mount, not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries > substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin 430 > is about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels so > the main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop be > magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error rather > than swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk? > Confused > Jim Bean > N99JA 37 hours. ================== Jim: The Chinese invented the compass, except way back then it was a South seeking instead of North. Maybe it is trying to revert back to its ancestry? A simple check for electromagnetic fields can be done by starting the engine, then shut off the Master and ALL circuits. Then one item at a time turn it on observe the compass and then turn it off. Did the compass ever work correctly in the installation? Does the "swings" maintain a constant error? Have you ever adjusted the "Swing" of the compass? Get a Good Boy Scout Compass and work it around the panel while going through the power ON / Off steps. It will POINT to the problem area. Barry "Chop'd Liver" "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third time." Yamashiada ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wandering Compass
From: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Date: Aug 16, 2006
Jim, See if you can get hold of 'growler' I think they are commonly used for demagnetising starter armatures (SnapOn tools?). Plug it into the mains and wave it over all the steel parts. This will make a huge difference to the compass performance. It might be a good idea to remove the compass (and any other magnetically sensitive items) before degaussing the steel. Doug Gray > > all, > I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel mount, > not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries > substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin 430 is > about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels so the > main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop be > magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error rather than > swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk? > Confused > Jim Bean > N99JA 37 hours. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 16, 2006
Subject: Re: Aluminum Control Stick -- was Wandering Compass
Stormy, I'd strongly suggest just demagnetizing both sticks and stay with the 4130 steel sticks. Even though RV's are pretty light on the controls, doing high rate rolls requires considerable stick force. Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/16/2006 2:21:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, sportav8r(at)gmail.com writes: My whiskey compass would swing crazily in response to control stick movements on the ground.. the pax stick was magnetized and too near the compass. A switch to aluminum tube for the right stick corrected this. I have no clue why Van supplies steel for this part when aluminum seems plenty robust for the task and is lighter and nonmagnetic. I plan to replace the pilot's stick with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing - haven't bothered to look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the pounds take care of themselves... -Stormy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2006
From: "Randy Hooper" <krhooper(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wandering Compass
An easy way to check for magnetized items is to use a non magnetized steel sewing needle suspended by a thread near all steel parts. If you need to remove a magnetic field, a Weller pistol type soldering gun will do the trick. Just pull the trigger and hold it near the object. It is best to make sure the needle is demagnetized before starting and after it touches any magnetic item. Randy Hooper On 8/16/06, Doug Gray wrote: > > > Jim, > > See if you can get hold of 'growler' I think they are commonly used for > demagnetising starter armatures (SnapOn tools?). Plug it into the mains > and wave it over all the steel parts. This will make a huge difference > to the compass performance. > > It might be a good idea to remove the compass (and any other > magnetically sensitive items) before degaussing the steel. > > Doug Gray > > > > > all, > > I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel > mount, > > not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries > > substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin > 430 is > > about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels > so the > > main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop > be > > magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error > rather than > > swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk? > > Confused > > Jim Bean > > N99JA 37 hours. > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2006
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wandering Compass
My compass gave me fits at frirst, due to magnetism in the pax side joystick. Replacing that piece with aluminum tube cured the compass' tendency to follow the joystick left and right. Not sure why the joysticks aren't aluminum anyhow; seems amply strong for the task and certainly lighter and nonmagnetic. What sort of control forces was Van engineering for when he did that, I wonder? -Stormy On 8/16/06, FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 8/15/06 7:38:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > jim-bean(at)att.net > writes: > > > all, > > I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel > > mount, not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that > carries > > substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A > Garmin > 430 > > is about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side > panels > so > > the main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover > hoop > be > > magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error > rather > > than swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk? > > Confused > > Jim Bean > > N99JA 37 hours. > ================== > Jim: > > The Chinese invented the compass, except way back then it was a South > seeking > instead of North. Maybe it is trying to revert back to its ancestry? > > A simple check for electromagnetic fields can be done by starting the > engine, > then shut off the Master and ALL circuits. Then one item at a time turn > it > on observe the compass and then turn it off. > > Did the compass ever work correctly in the installation? > > Does the "swings" maintain a constant error? > > Have you ever adjusted the "Swing" of the compass? > > Get a Good Boy Scout Compass and work it around the panel while going > through > the power ON / Off steps. It will POINT to the problem area. > > Barry > "Chop'd Liver" > > "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the > third > time." > Yamashiada > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2006
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Control Stick -- was Wandering Compass
Dan: I do the high-rate rolls you speak of, to the point where max deflection gives a pronounced aileron stall buffet, and the control forces involved (in a -6, anyway) are far less than what would begin to flex a 7/8" x .049 aluminum tube. I have no actual numbers, but no actual worries, either. At this point, only my pax-side tube is aluminum, but i believe I will one day replace my stick as well, for the weight savings. -Stormy On 8/16/06, Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Stormy, > > I'd strongly suggest just demagnetizing both sticks and stay with the 4130 > steel sticks. Even though RV's are pretty light on the controls, doing high > rate rolls requires considerable stick force. > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A > > > In a message dated 8/16/2006 2:21:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > sportav8r(at)gmail.com writes: > > My whiskey compass would swing crazily in response to control stick > movements on the ground.. the pax stick was magnetized and too near the > compass. A switch to aluminum tube for the right stick corrected this. I > have no clue why Van supplies steel for this part when aluminum seems plenty > robust for the task and is lighter and nonmagnetic. I plan to replace the > pilot's stick with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing - > haven't bothered to look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the pounds > take care of themselves... > > -Stormy > > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: canopy care
Date: Aug 16, 2006
Man, I love the way this list can work! Thanks to all- glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass
Date: Aug 16, 2006
Hi Stormy- RE: I plan to replace the > pilot's stick with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing - > haven't bothered to look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the pounds > take care of themselves... Take a look at http://www.aedmotorsport.com/ They seem to have just about any aluminum or steel that a homebuilder could want. They are on the NW side of Indy, and used to cater to aviation, but switched to the racing crowd. They will still supply aviators without batting an eye, though. glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Wandering Compass
Date: Aug 16, 2006
It might be acceptable to replace the passenger stick with an aluminum one, but I would be hesitant to do this for the pilot's stick. An aluminum pilot's stick might be OK for normal flight conditions, but there have been cases on RVs, and other aircraft, where something jams the controls. In this case, the pilot may need to exert a very high force on the stick to overcome the jam. If the stick bends or breaks before the jam is overcome, then this leads to an accident. Kevin Horton On 16-Aug-06, at 7:53 AM, Bill Boyd wrote: > My compass gave me fits at frirst, due to magnetism in the pax side > joystick. Replacing that piece with aluminum tube cured the > compass' tendency to follow the joystick left and right. Not sure > why the joysticks aren't aluminum anyhow; seems amply strong for > the task and certainly lighter and nonmagnetic. What sort of > control forces was Van engineering for when he did that, I wonder? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2006
From: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Wandering Compass
My guess it's more a point of ease of fabrication. I mean the weldment at the bottom. Now you have too go and make it complicated, splitting the thing into two: steel weldment at the bottom and alu stick at the top :) Finn Bill Boyd wrote: > My compass gave me fits at frirst, due to magnetism in the pax side > joystick. Replacing that piece with aluminum tube cured the compass' > tendency to follow the joystick left and right. Not sure why the > joysticks aren't aluminum anyhow; seems amply strong for the task and > certainly lighter and nonmagnetic. What sort of control forces was > Van engineering for when he did that, I wonder? > > -Stormy > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2006
From: "Robert E. Newhall II" <renewhall2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale
I have a lighted, analog Van's 2 1/4" EGT gauge (p/n: IE VEGT1600) for sale (replaced it with a digital one recently). Gauge is like new, no scratches. Probe and wire exension included (Well-worn but it works). $40 (price include shipping). (New parts from Vans would be $45+95+37=$177) Bob Newhall Boulder, CO RV 7, flying 250hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2006
From: "Robert E. Newhall II" <renewhall2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale
I have a lighted, analog Van's 2 1/4" EGT gauge (p/n: IE VEGT1600) for sale (replaced it with a digital one recently). Gauge is like new, no scratches. Probe and wire exension included (Well-worn but it works). $40 (price include shipping). (New parts from Vans would be $45+95+37=$177) Bob Newhall Boulder, CO RV 7, flying 250hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2006
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RE: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass
Thanks, Glen. Good supplier to know about. Wonder if GV has added them to the Yeller Pages? -Stormy On 8/16/06, glen matejcek wrote: > > > Hi Stormy- > > RE: I plan to replace the > > pilot's stick with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing - > > haven't bothered to look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the > pounds > > take care of themselves... > > Take a look at http://www.aedmotorsport.com/ They seem to have just > about > any aluminum or steel that a homebuilder could want. They are on the NW > side of Indy, and used to cater to aviation, but switched to the racing > crowd. They will still supply aviators without batting an eye, though. > > glen matejcek > aerobubba(at)earthlink.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2006
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wandering Compass
Good thought, Kevin. My guess is something else in the "drive train" like a bellcrank would give way first, but that's purest speculation on my part. I have no desire to test the elevator or aileron linkages to failure just to see what gives first. The hardest force I've ever held on the controls in flight was the time my trim control deck left me stuck with inop elevator trim in the landing config and I was in takeoff and cruise mode. Fought that for 20 minutes with about 15 lbs?? of forward stick force before I gave up and returned to land and fix it at home rather that press on to the destination. There are no standard flight maneuvers I can think of that call for anywhere near that force in an RV. My arms were like jell-o when I landed, from isotonic muscle fatigue. Since I was using a stgeel joystick, I suppose that proves nothing to the present point ;-) -Stormy On 8/16/06, Kevin Horton wrote: > > > It might be acceptable to replace the passenger stick with an > aluminum one, but I would be hesitant to do this for the pilot's > stick. An aluminum pilot's stick might be OK for normal flight > conditions, but there have been cases on RVs, and other aircraft, > where something jams the controls. In this case, the pilot may need > to exert a very high force on the stick to overcome the jam. If the > stick bends or breaks before the jam is overcome, then this leads to > an accident. > > Kevin Horton > > > On 16-Aug-06, at 7:53 AM, Bill Boyd wrote: > > > My compass gave me fits at frirst, due to magnetism in the pax side > > joystick. Replacing that piece with aluminum tube cured the > > compass' tendency to follow the joystick left and right. Not sure > > why the joysticks aren't aluminum anyhow; seems amply strong for > > the task and certainly lighter and nonmagnetic. What sort of > > control forces was Van engineering for when he did that, I wonder? > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Looking for AN816-4-6D
From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Date: Aug 16, 2006
I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks lists them - any leads on where I can get it ? __g__ ========================================================== Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com Tel: 415 203 9177 ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2006
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RE: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass
The cheapest supplier of raw material around is Dillsburg Aero in PA. They are the cheapest by FAR. I buy from AED since they are local to me when I'm in a pinch for something, but they are much more expensive. http://www.airbum.com/articles/ArticleDillsburgAero.html Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D
Date: Aug 16, 2006
Maybe try http://www.bonacoinc.com. They've done some hoses for me and stock some wacky fittings. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1034 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 10:59 AM Subject: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D > > > I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer > between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The > hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I > think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks > lists them - any leads on where I can get it ? > > __g__ > > ========================================================= > Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com > Tel: 415 203 9177 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D
From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Date: Aug 16, 2006
Thx, but unfortunately no go ... Looks like an AN912-2D bushing combined with an AN816-4-4D nipple is the only way to go ... g > > > Maybe try http://www.bonacoinc.com. They've done some hoses for me and > stock some wacky fittings. > > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D (1034 hours) > http://www.rvproject.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 10:59 AM > Subject: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D > > > > > > > > I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer > > between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The > > hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I > > think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks > > lists them - any leads on where I can get it ? > > > > __g__ > > > > ========================================================= > > Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com > > Tel: 415 203 9177 > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- __g__ ========================================================== Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com Tel: 415 203 9177 ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JhnstnIII(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 16, 2006
Subject: Tail lifting during full power static test
Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness certificate application it requires the builder to state that "the powerplant installation has undergone at least one hour of ground operation at various speeds from idle to full power. . . ." Yesterday during the first full power static test holding brakes and with the stick full aft the tail came up on me. Because I was approaching full power gradually (being nervous about just this sort of possibility) I was able to quickly close the throttle before the prop hit the ground. Aircraft has an 0-360 and constant speed prop. Aircraft was light with just me aboard and a few gallons of fuel. Aircraft was recently weighed and empty CG was a few inches aft of forward limit. I was able to complete the test by tying down the tail securely. It is still not a pleasant test to do. Tonight checking the archives I see this characteristic has been reported previously (in 1999) for both the RV-6 and the RV-8 with constant speed props. Thought I would mention it again for anyone out there about to do this test. Be very careful. LeRoy Johnston in Ohio. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Looking for AN816-4-6D
Date: Aug 16, 2006
Gerry, Not in aluminum, but plated steel is available: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3250 3250-06-04S 3/8 NPT Male to 4AN Male Steel Adapter $2.99 In Stock Chris Heitman -----Original Message----- I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks lists them - any leads on where I can get it ? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2006
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D
At 01:59 PM 8/16/2006, you wrote: > > >I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer >between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The >hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I >think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks >lists them - any leads on where I can get it ? > >__g__ Gerry, I'm a bit confused by your question. By definition, an AN816 fitting is AN male tubing (flare) on one end and male pipe thread (NPT) on the other. You have an AN4 hose, so you need #4 tube fitting on one end. What do you mean by #6 pipe fitting? Pipe fitting is either 1/16", 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" NPT or NPT. Do you need 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT? Charlie Kuss PS, Why would a fuel line for an RV only be AN4? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2006
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D
Gerry, the best way to deal with this IMO is to make a 90 deg. fitting by welding a 1/8" NPT pipe nipple to a 1/4" NPT pipe nipple as shown in the attached image. I occasionally fly this F1, it has the AFS system and the fuel flow readings are rock-solid. The flow transducer was moved here from a different location in the center tunnel near the boost pump. The flow transducer did not work well near the boost pump. Note that a small bracket was made to support the flowscan transducer. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On 8/16/06, Gerry Filby wrote: > > > I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer > between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The > hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I > think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks > lists them - any leads on where I can get it ? > > __g__ > > ========================================================= > Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com > Tel: 415 203 9177 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tail lifting during full power static test
Date: Aug 17, 2006
From: "Lockamy, Jack L" <jack.lockamy(at)navy.mil>
Why not be safe and ensure the tail is TIED DOWN and SECURE while doing this type of full-power run-up(s) test? Surely there is a place on the airport you could find a well anchored tiedown. I know of two cases at our airport where the tail came up (RV-6s) and both guys ended up buying new props and paying for an engine tiedown prior to first flight. Unbelievable.... but it still continues to happen. Doesn't have to... but it does! Amazing... Jack ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Flying to Canada from US (and back)
Date: Aug 17, 2006
I just got back from Ontario. Canadian customs was a snap. No one was at the airport so I called canpass and got a number and went on my way. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 300+ hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Doble" <mark(at)stratologic.net> Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 1:43 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying to Canada from US (and back) > > i'm planning on flying to Tornonto in the next month... > > Anyone that has flown the Canadian border a few times..... > > have you ever been asked for proof of $100,000 liability insurance? > > thanks, > > Mark. > > ps. not looking for any insurance recommendations....thanks. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tail lifting during full power static test
From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Date: Aug 17, 2006
Did you're engine supplier not run your engine in the test stand before delivering it to you ? It should be marked in the log book, I think. I.E. do you really need to run it for a whole hour ? Aerosport ran my engine for a total of 45 mins before it was delivered - so apart from a short short "shake down" run and some taxi tests - its next run will be the wild blue yonder. g > Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness > certificate > application it requires the builder to state that "the powerplant > installation has undergone at least one hour of ground > operation at various speeds from > idle to full power. . . ." Yesterday during the first full > power static test > holding brakes and with the stick full aft the tail came up on > me. Because > I was approaching full power gradually (being nervous about > just this sort of > possibility) I was able to quickly close the throttle before > the prop hit > the ground. > > Aircraft has an 0-360 and constant speed prop. Aircraft was > light with just > me aboard and a few gallons of fuel. Aircraft was recently > weighed and > empty CG was a few inches aft of forward limit. > > I was able to complete the test by tying down the tail > securely. It is > still not a pleasant test to do. > > Tonight checking the archives I see this characteristic has > been reported > previously (in 1999) for both the RV-6 and the RV-8 with > constant speed props. > > Thought I would mention it again for anyone out there about to > do this test. > Be very careful. > > LeRoy Johnston in Ohio. > -- __g__ ========================================================== Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com Tel: 415 203 9177 ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Tail lifting during full power static test
Date: Aug 17, 2006
Re: RV-List: Tail lifting during full power static testI want to back what Kabong & Jack L. have said. Do we need to circulate that horrible Lancair engine run video again? (no) A lot of bad things can happen when an engine is running, especially if precautions haven't been taken. I've seen videos of RV first engine runs where the plane isn't even chocked, let alone tied down. Can't believe people actually do these things. To me, a not-fully-secured engine start is analogous to CFIT. Pilot error for sure, and it coulda been avoided. For most of us, first engine run is at the end of a 2-10+ year journey. Why risk throwing ANY of that hard work away, or risk somebody getting hurt, or risk somebody else's hard work getting damaged? Don't answer that question. Just be safe. FWIW, my RV-7 tail was tied down securely for my engine runs, and the tail still "hopped" when I did full power runs because my mains were chocked. There is no way to know beforehand whether or not it will do this. -7, or -8, or Rocket, or whatever, regardless of the powerplant. Just be safe. Not that I want to make light of any of this, but see the attached photo to see what can happen if the plane is not secured well enough for that first engine run. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Lockamy, Jack L To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 8:05 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tail lifting during full power static test Why not be safe and ensure the tail is TIED DOWN and SECURE while doing this type of full-power run-up(s) test? Surely there is a place on the airport you could find a well anchored tiedown. I know of two cases at our airport where the tail came up (RV-6s) and both guys ended up buying new props and paying for an engine tiedown prior to first flight. Unbelievable.... but it still continues to happen. Doesn't have to... but it does! Amazing... Jack ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2006
From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Tail lifting during full power static test
Re: RV-List: Tail lifting during full power static testDuring the first runup tests & subsequent "conditional inspection" ground run ups we anchor it down & I drape my 230# self over the tail of HRII N561FS so that Tom is not setting in a pogo stick. IF you don't remove your eyeglasses, not to worry, the prop blast with do it for you. As for end of the runway runups we DO NOT cycle the prop as part of pre-flight. N561FS has more than enough umph to get rolling & take off even if the prop is in cruise. Tom kinda likes the extra kick in the pants during the take off roll (Kinda like the AB on an F-4) when he cycles up the prop during the roll. Runup the engine, cycle the prop with brakes locked = Varooom, big bite of air, ding, ding, thud....followed by a long silence...KABONG Do Not Archive. ----- Original Message ----- From: Lockamy, Jack L To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 8:05 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tail lifting during full power static test Why not be safe and ensure the tail is TIED DOWN and SECURE while doing this type of full-power run-up(s) test? Surely there is a place on the airport you could find a well anchored tiedown. I know of two cases at our airport where the tail came up (RV-6s) and both guys ended up buying new props and paying for an engine tiedown prior to first flight. Unbelievable.... but it still continues to happen. Doesn't have to... but it does! Amazing... Jack ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net>
Subject: Re: Tail lifting during full power static test
Date: Aug 17, 2006
Re: RV-List: Tail lifting during full power static testWhat is a safe method for tying down the tail on RV4, RV8. Please cover ALL details if known. Many thanks ... Jerry Grimmonpre' RV4 flying RV8A wires ----- Original Message ----- From: Lockamy, Jack L To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 10:05 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tail lifting during full power static test Why not be safe and ensure the tail is TIED DOWN and SECURE while doing this type of full-power run-up(s) test? Surely there is a place on the airport you could find a well anchored tiedown. I know of two cases at our airport where the tail came up (RV-6s) and both guys ended up buying new props and paying for an engine tiedown prior to first flight. Unbelievable.... but it still continues to happen. Doesn't have to... but it does! Amazing... Jack ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2006
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Battery to firewall
bertrv6(at)highstream.net wrote: > > > > Hello: > > I am thinking of getting rid, of the concord battery, on my rv6a, > and install an Odyssey one; on the fire wall, like the new Rv's. > > Is just to hard to get underneath, the panel, when one needs to serve > the battery. > > Has any one done this,, pro's and conn's ? I do not think the C.G would > change that much? > > I think I have the room for it.. > > > Thanks, > > Bert > > rv6a Here ya go, Bert: http://thervjournal.com/battery.htm I have been very happy with the firewall-mounted battery on my RV-6. I didn't reweigh the plane but considering the new battery is lighter than the Concord I suspect the mod had very little impact on CG. I couldn't detect any difference in flight characteristics after the move. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 17, 2006
Subject: Re: Battery to firewall
Bert, We did that and have noticed no adverse effects at all. One advantage is the fact that you can get to the new location with a battery charger and even with a jumper cable if you locate the battery near the oil inspection door as we did. We replaced the Odesy battery after 4 years but only because we wanted too. It worked well for us. Rollie & Rod RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Morocketman(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 17, 2006
Subject: Re: Tail lifting during full power static test
I had flown my Harmon Rocket II with IO-540 (260hp) for about half of the 25 hour flyoff time when I decided to start experimenting with what might happen when I was able to take a passenger along. I put a spare tire and wheel from my boat (estimated 20 lbs) in the baggage compartment. The airplane was sooooooooo much easier to maintain directional control on the ground, and just felt better all around. By the way, my tail weight is 43 lbs which is way more than John Harmon likes. I very seldom fly solo now, but when I do, and when I think of it, I put a collapsible 5 gallon water jug in the pit. Not being a math whiz I think it must weigh about 40 lbs plus the tare weight of the jug. When I pickup a passenger, I just dump the water. Not environmentally correct I suppose (creating oasis' is all the wrong places), but it really improves the airplanes manners. I do exercise the prop at 1700 rpm, and wonder what the consequences of not doing so might be. My airplane doesn't seem to be prone to lifting the tail, but I am wary. Be particularly careful with braking on cement or asphalt runways/taxiways or you can send her up on her nose. I had a scare on the first or second flight. Les Featherston N206KT "Airgasm" has 281 hours, and flew just great today. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: Anti Aviation Bill in Jacksonville
Date: Aug 17, 2006
I want to thank everyone that has helped me with this battle and sent emails of support. I really appreciate it. A lot of people have asked how they can help. I have set up a legal defence fund at http://www.jaxairplane.com/contribute.htm. EAA is trying to get the ordinance changed, but they can't directly help me with my upcoming court case. I would appreciate it if you could pass the link around to any other homebuilders you know and contribute if you can. Thanks. Brian Kraut brian(at)jaxairplane.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JhnstnIII(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 17, 2006
Subject: Re: Tail lifting during full power static test
"Did you're engine supplier not run your engine in the test stand before delivering it to you ? It should be marked in the log book, I think. I.E. do you really need to run it for a whole hour ? Aerosport ran my engine for a total of 45 mins before it was delivered - so apart from a short short "shake down" run and some taxi tests - its next run will be the wild blue yonder." It was run at the factory, but now it is installed in a new airplane with new fuel lines, engine mount, exhaust system, etc. I would not have felt comfortable signing the form without running it in its current installation and knowing it would go to full power in takeoff/climb attitude. Re the question of how to tie down the tail securely, all I can say is I used an airport tie down that looked solidly anchored with a rope in good condition. I tied it around the tail spring with three loops and two half hitches. I also added about 60 pounds to the baggage compartment. I would not want anyone hanging on the fuselage as some have mentioned. That sounds like asking for trouble. LeRoy Johnston in Ohio. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PSPRV6A(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 17, 2006
Subject: Re: Aluminum control stick option
I lightened the passenger side steel contol stick about 35% by tapering the OD with a lathe. Easy to do in my shop with a good lathe, I would not trust it to anyone else! A way to save a number of ounces. You don't have to be crazy to be an engineer, but it does help! Bulding RV6A with son Eric, done soon. Paul S. Petersen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PSPRV6A(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 17, 2006
Subject: Re: Aluminum control stick option
I lightened the passenger side steel contol stick about 35% by tapering the OD with a lathe. Easy to do in my shop with a good lathe, I would not trust it to anyone else! A way to save a number of ounces. You don't have to be crazy to be an engineer, but it does help! Bulding RV6A with son Eric, done soon. Paul S. Petersen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List Digest: 28 Msgs - 08/16/06
Date: Aug 17, 2006
Hi Gerry- A quick google of the part number yielded http://www.3rsales.com/fasteners.htm glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net > Subject: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D > From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> > I think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks > lists them - any leads on where I can get it ? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Canopy care question
Date: Aug 18, 2006
RE: I have some drops of epoxy, around the lower end of the canopy... ...How can one remove these? ...without >damaging the plexi glass.. > >Thanks, > >Bert >rv6a Hi Bert- First, is the epoxy low enough that the skirt will cover it? If so, a little damage will be out of sight. Also, We had a change in plans laying up my one-piece canopy skirt. We switched from the original plan of using PVA as a release agent to using a wax. We spaced and didn't wax the line between two rows of tape, and a little epoxy got down to the plex. As this plex wasn't scuffed to improve adhesion, a little force applied parallel to the surface of the plex with a finger nail generally makes it pop right off. For the rare case where that is inadequate, or I suddenly have visions of epoxy splinters under my nails, I use the SIDE of a dental pick to apply the force. No damage occurs. As ever, YMMV, and I hope this helps- glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Anti Aviation Bill in Jacksonville
Date: Aug 18, 2006
Hi Brian- > I would appreciate it if you could pass the link around to any other >homebuilders you know and contribute if you can. Thanks. > >Brian Kraut > >brian(at)jaxairplane.com I've sent the link and your note to our chapter newsletter editor. glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doc Custer" <ddcuster@wmv-co.us>
Subject: Re: Anti Aviation Bill in Jacksonville
Date: Aug 18, 2006
I will include your email in EAA Chapter 1422 September newsletter (I am the editor). Will that be soon enough? do no archive Doc Custer ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 8:54 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Anti Aviation Bill in Jacksonville > > I want to thank everyone that has helped me with this battle and sent > emails > of support. I really appreciate it. > > A lot of people have asked how they can help. I have set up a legal > defence > fund at http://www.jaxairplane.com/contribute.htm. EAA is trying to get > the > ordinance changed, but they can't directly help me with my upcoming court > case. I would appreciate it if you could pass the link around to any > other > homebuilders you know and contribute if you can. Thanks. > > Brian Kraut > > brian(at)jaxairplane.com > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Bingelis Books
Hi Listers, I have the four Classic Bingelis books: Engines, Sportplane Construction Techniques, Firewall Forward and The Sportplane Builder. They are in mint condition. They sell for about $20 each or $80 for the set. You can have the set for $50. Please contact me offline. Regards, Richard Dudley -6A flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: davcor(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Bingelis Books
Date: Aug 18, 2006
Richard, I'll take the set if you still have 'em Dave Cordner davcor(at)comcast.net RV7 - Fuse... -------------- Original message -------------- From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> > > Hi Listers, > > I have the four Classic Bingelis books: Engines, Sportplane Construction > Techniques, Firewall Forward and The Sportplane Builder. They are in > mint condition. They sell for about $20 each or $80 for the set. You can > have the set for $50. > Please contact me offline. > > Regards, > > Richard Dudley > -6A flying > > > > > >
Richard,
I'll take the set if you still have 'em
 
Dave Cordner
 
RV7 - Fuse...
 

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Electric Flaps option
Ok listers, here is my questions. I have been building my -6 for 16 years now but finalizing the assembly a t the airport now. I am pretty close but finding the need to change/ updat e some things. The tailwheel which I previously posted about needed to be changed to full swivel. It did take me some time to mess with this, but I will be happier. The flaps is the next question. I was pretty set on having manual flaps, but beings I put a quadrant in I would like to eventually after flying ha ve a arm rest in the center. Unfortunately the manual flaps make this difficult. After flying with Mike Seager using the electric flaps, I figured it wasn't so bad. So, here's my questions: Is changing the flaps to electric easier using the existing weldment? What would be the disadvantages to using it? How does the replacement weldment mount in the aircraft? I understand the RV-10 has an electric switch that is position controlled , Could I use this? In the trainer we just held the switch down for 4 seco nds to get half flaps. This has always been my complaint about electric flap s. I don't want to hold a switch for a count. Sounds like the RV-10 has a f ix for this. How big a job am I looking at to change this over? I am trying to figure out weather to go ahead and do it now or get flying first. Don't want to o many more delays. Thanks as always for any input Tim Bryan RV-6 N616TB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps option
Tim, The weldment is a different one for electric. It will get in the way of a future armrest too. I'm relocating the 'electric' actuator arm to the right side - next to the flap arm and will put the motor over there too (been done before - check the archives) to make room for my arm rest / entry foot step. Van's has a switch which allows for nice operation...down once for 10, again for 20 again for full, up once to retract. Ralph RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall foreward - then wings/flaps...... >-----Original Message----- >From: Tim Bryan >Sent: Aug 18, 2006 12:19 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Electric Flaps option > > >Ok listers, here is my questions. > >I have been building my -6 for 16 years now butfinalizing the assembly at the airport now. I am pretty close but finding the need to change/ update some things. The tailwheel which I previously posted about needed to be changed to full swivel. It did take me some time to mess with this, but I will be happier. > >The flaps is the next question. I was pretty set on having manual flaps, but beings I put a quadrant in I would like to eventually after flying have a arm rest in the center. Unfortunately the manual flaps make this difficult. After flying with Mike Seager using the electric flaps, I figured it wasn't so bad. So, here's my questions: > >Is changing the flaps to electric easier using the existing weldment? >What would be the disadvantages to using it? >How does the replacement weldment mount in the aircraft? >I understand the RV-10 has an electric switch that is position controlled, Could I use this? In the trainer we just held the switch down for 4 seconds to get half flaps. This has always been my complaint about electric flaps. I don't want to hold a switch for a count. Sounds like the RV-10 has a fix for this. >How big a job am I looking at to change this over? I am trying to figure out weather to go ahead and do it now or get flying first. Don't want too many more delays. > >Thanks as always for any input >Tim Bryan >RV-6 >N616TB > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps option
Hi Ralph, Thanks for the comments. I am not sure how the electric gets in the way for an armrest. I thought only the flap handle (manual) needing to move up o r down would be in the way. What am I missing? Also Van's catalog shows t wo different conversion kits. One which uses the existing weldment and anot her kit with the original weldment used for electric. I am not sure which wa y would be the best or how the other type mounts. I love that switch idea, hope I could use that. Tim The weldment is a different one for electric. It will get in the way of a future armrest too. I'm relocating the 'electric' actuator arm to the right side - next to th e flap arm and will put the motor over there too (been done before - check the archives) to make room for my arm rest / entry foot step. Van's has a switch which allows for nice operation...down once for 10, ag ain for 20 again for full, up once to retract. Ralph RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall foreward - then wings/flaps...... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps option
Tim Bryan wrote: > The flaps is the next question. I was pretty set on having manual flaps, > but beings I put a quadrant in I would like to eventually after flying have > a arm rest in the center. Unfortunately the manual flaps make this > difficult. After flying with Mike Seager using the electric flaps, I > figured it wasn't so bad. So, here's my questions: > Is changing the flaps to electric easier using the existing weldment? > > What would be the disadvantages to using it? > > How does the replacement weldment mount in the aircraft? > > I understand the RV-10 has an electric switch that is position controlled, > Could I use this? In the trainer we just held the switch down for 4 seconds > to get half flaps. This has always been my complaint about electric flaps. > I don't want to hold a switch for a count. Sounds like the RV-10 has a fix > for this. > > How big a job am I looking at to change this over? I am trying to figure > out weather to go ahead and do it now or get flying first. Don't want too > many more delays. Here is a link to notes on the manual to electric flap conversion in my RV-6: http://thervjournal.com/fuse7.html#flaps If you can weld or have access to someone that can, the manual torque tube can be readily modified. Otherwise, it would be easier to buy the arm from Vans. In my opinion the conversion is one of the best mods you can make to your RV-6 (full-swivel tailwheel was a good one, too). Total shop time for the mode was about 18 hrs. I find it easier to make a quick glance over the shoulder to check flap deployment rather than counting. Electric flap operation quickly becomes intuitive as you sense the impact of flaps on the airplane attitude/speed and the whole "counting" thing becomes moot. I suggest you make the mod now while you are in building mode and so you can get accustomed to electric flaps from the get-go. Go for it! Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps option
Sam did this a few years ago and write it up on his website: http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/fuse7.html#flaps The device used in the 10 to position the flaps is available from Vans for all other RVs as well: http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1155923952-384-594&browse=electrical&product=fps Jeff Point RV-6 flying RV-8 preview plans in hand... Milwaukee >* >* > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps option
Sam, Pictures are worth a lot. Thanks for directing me there. The one thing I notice is the flap tube is now mounted on the back side the side mounts. Does this require any reworking of the mount area? Also is the modified weldment the same thing as the weldment if purchased from Vans? Thanks for the help. Tim -------Original Message------- >>Here is a link to notes on the manual to electric flap conversion in my >>RV-6: >>http://thervjournal.com/fuse7.html#flaps >>If you can weld or have access to someone that can, the manual torque >>tube can be readily modified. Otherwise, it would be easier to buy the >>arm from Vans. >>In my opinion the conversion is one of the best mods you can make to >>your RV-6 (full-swivel tailwheel was a good one, too). Total shop time >>for the mode was about 18 hrs. I find it easier to make a quick glance >>over the shoulder to check flap deployment rather than counting. >>Electric flap operation quickly becomes intuitive as you sense the >>impact of flaps on the airplane attitude/speed and the whole "counting" >>thing becomes moot. I suggest you make the mod now while you are in >>building mode and so you can get accustomed to electric flaps from the >>get-go. >>Go for it! >>Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps option
Tim, You should be able to use the switch if you're using electric flaps - there's a part that attaches to the flap motor. I don't know about using a manula actuator for electric operation...I do remember that I bought my QB with elec flaps and there were a few parts that stick out forward into the 'armrest' area. I'll try to remember my elec flap instructions this weekend and zap them to you so you can see what you're getting into. I agree with Sam do it now - I would also suggest looking at how it operates to determine what impact it will have on your armrest. IMHO it's easier to get an elec flap weldment than search out a welder - although I'll have to do that for my mod regardless. Ralph -----Original Message----- >From: Tim Bryan <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> >Sent: Aug 18, 2006 1:28 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Electric Flaps option > >Hi Ralph, > > > >Thanks for the comments. I am not sure how the electric gets in the way for >an armrest. I thought only the flap handle (manual) needing to move up or >down would be in the way. What am I missing? Also Van's catalog shows two >different conversion kits. One which uses the existing weldment and another >kit with the original weldment used for electric. I am not sure which way >would be the best or how the other type mounts. > > >I love that switch idea, hope I could use that. > > > >Tim > > > > > > > > >The weldment is a different one for electric. It will get in the way of a >future armrest too. > >I'm relocating the 'electric' actuator arm to the right side - next to the >flap arm and will put the motor over there too (been done before - check the >archives) to make room for my arm rest / entry foot step. > >Van's has a switch which allows for nice operation...down once for 10, again >for 20 again for full, up once to retract. > > > >Ralph > >RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall foreward - then wings/flaps...... > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps option
Tim Bryan wrote: > Sam, > > > > Pictures are worth a lot. Thanks for directing me there. The one > thing I notice is the flap tube is now mounted on the back side the > side mounts. Does this require any reworking of the mount area? Also > is the modified weldment the same thing as the weldment if purchased > from Vans? Tim, it's been several years since I did the mod so some of the details have escaped me. I don't recall anything more than just moving the tube blocks to the backside of the bulkhead. Seems I used the same bolt holes. The modified torque tube will end up being the same as a new electric tube. The entire process is well documented in the instructions that come with the kit and the welding required is simple, just a matter of welding on new ends for the rod end bearings after you shorten the arms. My hangar-mate has electric flaps in his RV-6A and also has an armrest. Seems to me the only reason some might move the motor to the side of the plane is so the storage compartment in the armrest could be bigger. I considered putting the motor on the side but decided it wasn't worth the effort of modding the mod. :-) Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Bingelis Books]
Hi RV Listers, If anyone else is interested in the Bingelis books, I have sold mine to the first responder. However, I am forwarding an e-mail from Doug Gardner who says he also has the books for sale. Please contact him directly, if you are interested in his Bingelis books. Best regards, Richard Dudey -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Bingelis Books Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:16:12 GMT From: Douglas P. Gardner <seabearfl(at)netzero.net> Hi Rickard, I can't seem to be able to post to the RV list, but I also have a like new set of Tony's books I'll sell for $50.00 + shipping. If you have requests for another set, would you sent them this email. Thanks Richard Doug Gardner RV-8A FLYING 11.4 Hrs Palm Harbor, Florida 34683 (727) 784-2600 Fax (727) 785-4767 Email : seabearfl(at)netzero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Denver
Date: Aug 18, 2006
Any RVers in the Denver area? Im planning of flying my RV8 to Centennial Airport arriving September 13 and need advice on possible temporary hangar space and/or tie down. Please contact off list. Thanks Steve Glasgow-Cappy N123SG RV-8 Cappy's Toy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 18, 2006
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps option
In a message dated 8/18/06 12:25:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time, flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com writes: > I would like to eventually after flying have > a arm rest in the center. ====================================== Tim: The simple answer is DO NOT INSTAL A CENTER ARM REST! 1 - There is not enough room. 2 - It will be in the way when you Need to work under the panel ... And you WILL need to work under the panel. 3 - Unless you and your copilot are 100 Lbs each There is not enough room. Yo already will be bumping elbows and maybe even butts. 4 - The RV-6 does not need an arm rest, your legs are your arm rests. 5 - I have always preferred MANUAL FLAPS but both RV-6's I fly have electric flaps. They are acceptable. But, I still prefer Manual. Why? I lost all electric and could not deploy the flaps. When was the last time you practiced a ZERO FLAP landing? Did you hit the numbers? How long did it take you to stop? I read the spec sheet too and seen what they say about how SLOW the stall speed is. I was also taught by a CFII/ATP that has 2000 Hours in RV-6's. His answer was: "You want to fly 5 Kts over Stall on approach? Not with Me or My Plane! 80 Kts over the fence!" The RV-6 is not the most stable of planes at slow speeds and the flaps do make it MUCH better on the final approach. And before you guys light your flame throwers. I have about 250 Hours in RV-6's, just don't expect them to fly like a C-150. My comments are REAL and you have to keep it real if you don't want to bend any metal. Barry "Chop'd Liver" "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third time." Yamashiada ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
Subject: Electric Flaps option
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Hi Tim, The electric flaps are the way to go. I would use "aircraftextras.com" flap controller if I was to do it again. I have the three position system from Van's but it is a locked in system. The other system is variable and you can set it where you want and how you want. I spent a bit of time getting the fixed system to be "right". I would have liked a simpler system and I think aircraft extras has that option. Jim Nelson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps option
FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com wrote: > >In a message dated 8/18/06 12:25:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com writes: > > > >>I would like to eventually after flying have >> a arm rest in the center. >> >> >====================================== >Tim: > >The simple answer is DO NOT INSTAL A CENTER ARM REST! > >1 - There is not enough room. >2 - It will be in the way when you Need to work under the panel ... And you >WILL need to work under the panel. >3 - Unless you and your copilot are 100 Lbs each There is not enough room. >Yo already will be bumping elbows and maybe even butts. >4 - The RV-6 does not need an arm rest, your legs are your arm rests. >5 - I have always preferred MANUAL FLAPS but both RV-6's I fly have electric >flaps. They are acceptable. But, I still prefer Manual. >Why? I lost all electric and could not deploy the flaps. >When was the last time you practiced a ZERO FLAP landing? >Did you hit the numbers? >How long did it take you to stop? >I read the spec sheet too and seen what they say about how SLOW the stall >speed is. I was also taught by a CFII/ATP that has 2000 Hours in RV-6's. His >answer was: "You want to fly 5 Kts over Stall on approach? Not with Me or My >Plane! 80 Kts over the fence!" >The RV-6 is not the most stable of planes at slow speeds and the flaps do >make it MUCH better on the final approach. >And before you guys light your flame throwers. I have about 250 Hours in >RV-6's, just don't expect them to fly like a C-150. My comments are REAL and you >have to keep it real if you don't want to bend any metal. > And practicing '80 kts over the fence', don't expect to live if you have an engine failure & have to land off-airport. Please name the cfii so we'll know who to avoid. ;-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps option
FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 8/18/06 12:25:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com writes: > >> I would like to eventually after flying have >> a arm rest in the center. > ====================================== > Tim: > > The simple answer is DO NOT INSTAL A CENTER ARM REST! Well....don't know how simple my answers will be but I'll interject some differing opinions. > 1 - There is not enough room. Guess this is sorta subjective. The several armrests I have seen in RV's are only about three inches wide (the width of the space between seat cushions, and the pilots I polled seemed quite happy with the armrests. My hangarmate put an armrest in his RV-6A and its still there after ~800 flight hours. > 2 - It will be in the way when you Need to work under the panel ... And you > WILL need to work under the panel. This situation is resolved by making the armrest easily removable. > 3 - Unless you and your copilot are 100 Lbs each There is not enough room. > Yo already will be bumping elbows and maybe even butts. One rationalization I have heard for the armrest to *prevent* bumping posteriors. ;-) > 4 - The RV-6 does not need an arm rest, your legs are your arm rests. Tim wants an armrest because he has a throttle quadrant and wants to brace his arm. Even though I don't have an armrest in my plane, if I didn't have the cupholders between the seats I might have an armrest with a little map pocket in it. > 5 - I have always preferred MANUAL FLAPS but both RV-6's I fly have electric > flaps. They are acceptable. But, I still prefer Manual. Some folks do. > Why? I lost all electric and could not deploy the flaps. > When was the last time you practiced a ZERO FLAP landing? Quite often, matter of fact. > Did you hit the numbers? Usually no, but then I hardly ever do hit the numbers. ;-) > How long did it take you to stop? Kinda a moot point on a 6000' runway. But I guess if the engine stopped running and the battery fell out of the plane just before a forced landing in a little cow pasture, I would probably be wishing I had manual flaps. But I find electric flaps to be quite satisfactory for the frequent short, grass field landings I make. By the way, the flaps on my plane are connected with a fused lead directly to the battery so the flaps are available even if the master has been turned off. > I read the spec sheet too and seen what they say about how SLOW the stall > speed is. I was also taught by a CFII/ATP that has 2000 Hours in RV-6's. His > answer was: "You want to fly 5 Kts over Stall on approach? Not with Me or My > Plane! 80 Kts over the fence!" Speaking of hitting the numbers or stopping in a short distance, it just ain't gonna happen if you try landing an RV-6 after arriving at the runway carrying 80 kts.... > The RV-6 is not the most stable of planes at slow speeds and the flaps do > make it MUCH better on the final approach. Hmmmmm, guess this one will depend on pilot experience and preferences, too. > And before you guys light your flame throwers. I have about 250 Hours in > RV-6's, just don't expect them to fly like a C-150. My comments are REAL and you > have to keep it real if you don't want to bend any metal. I certainly have no intentions of tossing any flames, just offering a different viewpoint. Its been so long since I flew a C150 I've forgotten how they fly, but after nearly 800 hrs in my RV-6, I do have some opinions on how *my* particular plane lands at various speeds and configurations. Since my plane stalls at ~50kts indicated (but I'm usually looking more at the LRI), I find "coming over the fence" at 70kts with the speed steadily decreasing to 55-60kts at touchdown works very nicely when the wind isn't gusting. Any faster and the plane won't three-point without skipping and a wheel landing is more apt to bounce as well. When the tail drops and the wing incidence goes positive any faster than 65 kts, the stubby little wings think they are being called upon to fly! Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Denver
>Any RVer's in the Denver area? I'm planning of flying my RV8 to Centennial >Airport arriving September 13 and need advice on possible temporary hangar >space and/or tie down. In case you are not used to high altitude flying here are a few suggestions. 1) Fly your normal airspeeds on approach. There may actually be some delta as altitude changes but the point is that your groundspeed will be higher than you are used to for the same indicated airspeed. Do not use groundspeed to determine flare. 2) Lean the engine during runup according to your engine manufacturer. 3) Be aware of the Denver Class B airspace altitudes. 4) If you want to go to Leadville to get your highest airport certificate let me know. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps option
From: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Date: Aug 19, 2006
My kit was delivered with manual flap option and during the building I have converted it to electric. Modifying the torque tube assembly was no big deal. Just cut the three tubes and have a welder fit the three steel 'brackets' in place. It seemed a bit stupid to scrap the entire manual weldment for the sake of three welds. Of course you do need to find a capable aircraft welder to do the job. I have found several jobs that needed to be done along the way so it is good to know who to turn to. BTW are your rudder pedals modified according to the Vans AD? If not then get these welded at the same time. Doug Gray > > Hi Tim, > The electric flaps are the way to go. I would use > "aircraftextras.com" flap controller if I was to do it again. I have the > three position system from Van's but it is a locked in system. The other > system is variable and you can set it where you want and how you want. I > spent a bit of time getting the fixed system to be "right". I would have > liked a simpler system and I think aircraft extras has that option. > > Jim Nelson > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps option
From: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Date: Aug 19, 2006
> And practicing '80 kts over the fence', don't expect to live if you have > an engine failure & have to land off-airport. > > Please name the cfii so we'll know who to avoid. ;-) At 80kts over the fence it's a wonder you can hit the numbers on the far end of the runway. Perhaps the fence is a mile downwind. I thought the rule of thumb was approach safety speed is 1.3 times stall IAS in the landing configuration. I guess it is possible that the ASI errors are so bad that IAS at flapless stall is >60kts. Doug Gray ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Certification details, was tail lifting...
Date: Aug 19, 2006
Hi Gerry and list- RE: >"Did you're engine supplier not run your engine in the test >stand before delivering it to you ? It should be marked in the >log book, I think. I.E. do you really need to run it for a >whole hour ? Aerosport ran my engine for a total of 45 mins >before it was delivered - so apart from a short short "shake >down" run and some taxi tests - its next run will be the wild >blue yonder." > Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness > certificate > application it requires the builder to state that "the powerplant > installation has undergone at least one hour of ground > operation at various speeds from > idle to full power. . . ." I have a couple observations / questions- first, my recollection of the procedure is that, yes, the "engine installation" has to be run for an hour. This would indicate that the test cell time does not contribute to meeting this requirement. However, I just went through my airworthiness cert ap, and my copy only references the fact that the aircraft was "inspected and is airworthy and is eligible for the airworthiness certificate requested". Am I missing something, or has the form been changed? My copy is dated 10-04. Has the engine run provision been dropped, or is it relocated somewhere else? glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2006
From: "Jeff Linebaugh" <jefflinebaugh(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Tail lifting during full power static test
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 19, 2006
Subject: Re: Electric flaps option
I have considered going back to manual flaps after having two flap motor failures in the first 300 hours... Luckily, both happened close to home. First was with flaps up, so I got to make an unrehearsed no flaps landing, which was a non-event. The second was flaps down, refused to retract after landing, also at home base. I could imagine being someplace and flying along at 90 knots C-150 style for an hour or three... So I became somewhat of an expert on flap motor cleaning/replacement. To Van's credit, they replaced the motor second time around, no troubles since... (fingers crossed),,, Jerry Cochran Wilsonville, OR RV6a ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Electric flaps option
At 10:35 AM 8/19/2006, you wrote: >I have considered going back to manual flaps after having two flap motor >failures in the first 300 hours... Luckily, both happened close to home. >First was with flaps up, so I got to make an unrehearsed no flaps landing, >which was a non-event. The second was flaps down, refused to retract after >landing, also at home base. I could imagine being someplace and flying >along at 90 knots C-150 style for an hour or three... I was flying with a guy during his test phase (in my plane) and he had a problem with the electric flaps unable to retract up after a touch n go. We landed and found the problem. Can't remember the cause. May have been a blown fuse. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2006
From: Jim Peoples <jp_rv2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-7 or RV-9 ?
I could use some feedback from the list on whether to build an RV7 with a 160 HP engine; or an RV9 with a 160 HP engine. With the RV7 i would be at the bottom of the engine list but able to move up... with the RV9 i would be at the top. are there any other significant differences or issues that i should be looking at to make this choice? thx in adv. jp --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?
Date: Aug 19, 2006
160 hp will power either aircraft just fine. The question is whether you want to trade the more docile behavior of the -9 for the ability to do aerobatics in the -7. That's what it all boils down to. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Peoples To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 2:05 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-7 or RV-9 ? I could use some feedback from the list on whether to build an RV7 with a 160 HP engine; or an RV9 with a 160 HP engine. With the RV7 i would be at the bottom of the engine list but able to move up... with the RV9 i would be at the top. are there any other significant differences or issues that i should be looking at to make this choice? thx in adv. jp ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2006
Subject: [ Alf Olav Frog ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Alf Olav Frog Lists: RV-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV9-List Subject: Prevent Water Behind Panel http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/alfolavf@online.no.08.19.2006/index.html ---------------------------------------------------------- o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2006
Subject: [ Bobby Hargrave ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Bobby Hargrave Lists: RV-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List Subject: Sticky Exhaust Valve http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/bphargrave@worldnet.att.net.1.08.19.2006/index.html ---------------------------------------------------------- o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2006
Subject: [ Bobby Hargrave ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Bobby Hargrave Lists: RV-List,RV4-List,RV8-List Subject: Canopy Skirt http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/bphargrave@worldnet.att.net.2.08.19.2006/index.html ---------------------------------------------------------- o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2006
From: bertrv6(at)highstream.net
Subject: Re: Battery to firewall
Quoting Rquinn1(at)aol.com: > Bert, We did that and have noticed no adverse effects at all. One advantage > is the fact that you can get to the new location with a battery charger and > even with a jumper cable if you locate the battery near the oil inspection > door > as we did. > We replaced the Odesy battery after 4 years but only because we wanted too. > It worked well for us. > Rollie & Rod > RV6A > > Thanks good to hear Bert rv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 19, 2006
Subject: Re: NAV AID QUESTION
Bert, Do you have the switch in the right hand position -- Wing Leveler? Center is off -- servo out of gear. Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/19/2006 6:13:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, bertrv6(at)highstream.net writes: --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6(at)highstream.net HI; I FINALLY CONNECTED MY NAV AID.. THAST IS BRACKET TO CONTROL STICK AND PLUG, AND WIRE..ALL FINISHED. BUT NOW....I SHOULD BE ABLE TO MOVE ALERONS, BY TURNING THE KNOB ON THE AID UNIT... IT DOES NOT... NOTHING HAPPENS...I KNOW POWER IS GOING TO THE SERVO, BECAUSE I SAW THE CRANK MOVING WHEN I WAS CENTERED IT,... IT IS FRUSTRATING, I KNOW I AM DOING OR DID SOMETHING WRONG, CHANCES ARE THE UNIT IS OK... WHAT IS THE SUGGESTIONS OF THOSE, WITH THE NAV WING LEVELER UNIT/ ANY ONE HAD SAME TROUBLE/ THANKS BERT RV6A do not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Where to put garmin GPS
Date: Aug 19, 2006
I buzzed down to Aircraft Spruce today and took my first really good look at a Garmin 396. I realize I'm the last person in the world to look at one, but I figure that the farther away I stay from more expensive toys, the better on my bank account. One of the neat things about dropping in on Aircraft Spruce on a not so busy day was that they said "Take the GPS, go outside with it, drive around with it if you want." I said "Can I take it for a flight?" and they said "Sure, just have it back by closing time." I'm not sure if they meant that, but it was nice to take the unit outside the store and run through the features for a few minutes. There is simply no way to do that at an airshow. I was very impressed. The menus and features are easy to figure out without relying on a manual, and the resolution is awesome. Anyway, the question I had after giving the thing a good once over is "Where would I put one?". I have a Lowrance Airmap 100, which I usually just rest on my leg, but I don't think the Garmin will work that way. So, side by side RV'ers, where do you put your Garmin GPS? I'm not really interested in putting it on the glareshield, and I've already spent all of my panel space... Now that I've ruled out most of the obvious places, what are your suggestions? Kyle Boatright 2001 RV-6 400+ hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2006
From: Jim Peoples <jp_rv2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?
Thanks for the feedback... i know it is all common sense and i've heard most of it before... but is has helped me clarify my decision to hear back from you guys... who would know any better than this group? Onward and upward. jp --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2006
Subject: Where to put garmin GPS
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Kyle, I am putting my GPS on the mount provided my Airmap 500. It will be bolted to the left side "P/N F704K upright cap strip" that goes from the spar up to my roll bar. I have put K1000 nuts behind it so I can mount anything I want in that area. Since it is an area that is fastened by the blind rivets, you could just drill them out and put in at least three blind nuts for max holding power. I'm also putting in three blind nuts on the co-pilots cap strip for any thing else I may want to hook up in that area. The mount provided by Lowrance is very flexible. I would thin that Garmin would have something similar. Jim Nelson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Where to put garmin GPS
Date: Aug 19, 2006
I built a new instrument panel and installed it right under the Dynon D180..... EFIS, Engine Monitor, GPS, Weather, XM satellite radio, all in two instruments.... -Mike Kraus RV-4 Flying with a new instrument panel..... -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 9:32 PM Subject: RV-List: Where to put garmin GPS I buzzed down to Aircraft Spruce today and took my first really good look at a Garmin 396. I realize I'm the last person in the world to look at one, but I figure that the farther away I stay from more expensive toys, the better on my bank account. One of the neat things about dropping in on Aircraft Spruce on a not so busy day was that they said "Take the GPS, go outside with it, drive around with it if you want." I said "Can I take it for a flight?" and they said "Sure, just have it back by closing time." I'm not sure if they meant that, but it was nice to take the unit outside the store and run through the features for a few minutes. There is simply no way to do that at an airshow. I was very impressed. The menus and features are easy to figure out without relying on a manual, and the resolution is awesome. Anyway, the question I had after giving the thing a good once over is "Where would I put one?". I have a Lowrance Airmap 100, which I usually just rest on my leg, but I don't think the Garmin will work that way. So, side by side RV'ers, where do you put your Garmin GPS? I'm not really interested in putting it on the glareshield, and I've already spent all of my panel space... Now that I've ruled out most of the obvious places, what are your suggestions? Kyle Boatright 2001 RV-6 400+ hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Certification details, was tail lifting...
Date: Aug 20, 2006
On an Application for Airworthiness (FAA Form 8130-6 http://forms.faa.gov/redirect.asp?fnumber=8130-6&url=forms/faa8130-6d.pdf&hit=19), only sections I, II, and III need filed out by the Applicant for an Experimental Amateur Built Aircraft. Where are you finding a requirement to run the engine 1 hour? I just completed my recurrent training on 24 July 2006. I know of NO requirement for a one hour engine run before your airworthiness inspection. Gary A. Sobek DAR Function Code 46 (Amateur Built Experimental Aircraft) "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,936 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://www.rvdar.com ----Original Message Follows---- From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: RE: Certification details, was tail lifting... Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 10:28:19 -0400 Hi Gerry and list- RE: >"Did you're engine supplier not run your engine in the test >stand before delivering it to you ? It should be marked in the >log book, I think. I.E. do you really need to run it for a >whole hour ? Aerosport ran my engine for a total of 45 mins >before it was delivered - so apart from a short short "shake >down" run and some taxi tests - its next run will be the wild >blue yonder." > Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness > certificate > application it requires the builder to state that "the powerplant > installation has undergone at least one hour of ground > operation at various speeds from > idle to full power. . . ." I have a couple observations / questions- first, my recollection of the procedure is that, yes, the "engine installation" has to be run for an hour. This would indicate that the test cell time does not contribute to meeting this requirement. However, I just went through my airworthiness cert ap, and my copy only references the fact that the aircraft was "inspected and is airworthy and is eligible for the airworthiness certificate requested". Am I missing something, or has the form been changed? My copy is dated 10-04. Has the engine run provision been dropped, or is it relocated somewhere else? glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 20, 2006
Subject: Re: Electric Flaps option
In a message dated 8/19/06 10:10:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com writes: > I got to ask of any. What are the best speeds for landing? > start the approach, slow to ? > maintain this till final > Then on final slow to ? over the fence? > Assuming tail wheel and constant speed rv-6 > > Tim ======================================== Tim: Landing can NOT be taught on line. But, for the RV-6 w/C/S Prop that I fly I use 80 Kts (90 MPH) on final. As for slowing down ... We are talking RV-6 here not gliders, so when the power is cut she will drop like a rock ... Maybe not Magnetite, more like Glenna. Slowing down is easy too, just set up for a three point landing. NOT YOU NOSE DRAGGER TYPES! Just a PS here ... I have been asked by ATC to keep up the speed while on a practice ILS because there was a jet on approach; did that at 105 Kts. Still had no problem slowing down, C/S Prop helped but so does pitch. Who said BREAKS? I don't need no stinking breaks! For all the nay-sayers about too much speed - I would recommend, just for S&G's do some ILS work at both 1.3 x Stall (too slow) and 80 Kts (90 MPH) and then one about 90 Kts (100 MPH) and then you tell me which gave you the best all around approach. Barry "Chop'd Liver" "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third time." Yamashiada ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Where to put garmin GPS
From: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Date: Aug 20, 2006
I am planning to add a bracket to the 'pillar' (F-304e) using several of the pop rivet holes. I may replace some of the pop rivets with nut plates and #8 screws, this would give more options. Doug Gray > I buzzed down to Aircraft Spruce today and took my first really good > look at a Garmin 396. I realize I'm the last person in the world to > look at one, but I figure that the farther away I stay from more > expensive toys, the better on my bank account. One of the neat things > about dropping in on Aircraft Spruce on a not so busy day was that > they said "Take the GPS, go outside with it, drive around with it if > you want." I said "Can I take it for a flight?" and they said "Sure, > just have it back by closing time." I'm not sure if they meant that, > but it was nice to take the unit outside the store and run through the > features for a few minutes. There is simply no way to do that at an > airshow. > > I was very impressed. The menus and features are easy to figure out > without relying on a manual, and the resolution is awesome. > > Anyway, the question I had after giving the thing a good once over is > "Where would I put one?". I have a Lowrance Airmap 100, which I > usually just rest on my leg, but I don't think the Garmin will work > that way. > > So, side by side RV'ers, where do you put your Garmin GPS? I'm not > really interested in putting it on the glareshield, and I've already > spent all of my panel space... > > Now that I've ruled out most of the obvious places, what are your > suggestions? > > Kyle Boatright > 2001 RV-6 > 400+ hours > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 20, 2006
Subject: Re: Where to put garmin GPS
Kyle, The GPS is the instrument that you will look at the most, next to your flight instruments and engine gauges. Also, it is a device that you need to be able to be able to see and reach to enter data, like your radio or transponder. You may want to reconsider and devote some premium panel space to it. I have my Garmin 295 mounted in the center of the panel on top of the radio stack as high up under the glareshield as I could get it. Both I and my "navigator" can see and reach it. I cut the hole in the panel to fit it, and made the bracket that holds it, but the new ready-made plastic mount would be just as good if not better. I know that may not be much help if you are not willing to redo your panel a little. Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/19/2006 9:36:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, kboatright1(at)comcast.net writes: So, side by side RV'ers, where do you put your Garmin GPS? I'm not really interested in putting it on the glareshield, and I've already spent all of my panel space... Now that I've ruled out most of the obvious places, what are your suggestions? Kyle Boatright 2001 RV-6 400+ hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Where to put garmin GPS
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 20, 2006
[quote="kboatright1(at)comcast.ne"]....."Where would I put one?". I have a Lowrance Airmap 100, which I usually just rest on my leg, but I don't think the Garmin will work that way. So, side by side RV'ers, where do you put your Garmin GPS? I'm not really interested in putting it on the glareshield, and I've already spent all of my panel space... Now that I've ruled out most of the obvious places, what are your suggestions? Kyle Boatright 2001 RV-6 400+ hours > [b] Kyle, You do not indicate what canopy configuration you have but I mounted my handheld GPS on a simple plate that picks up two existing holes on the roll ball base to sill attachment. The GPS is affixed to the plate by the tape Garmin provided. The holding power of that tape is tenacious. This arrrangement serves also double duty as a place to hang my headset. http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/855/img00011140hp0.jpg Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 162 hours Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55861#55861 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2006
From: Dan <dan(at)rdan.com>
Subject: Where to put garmin GPS
I use the 296 in my Cherokee, with no panel space I did not like the yoke mount, it was too close to me to read without glasses so I got a "Ram Mount" and am building a bracket to place it in a mid panel location without blocking any critical instruments, Dan Snohomish -8 tail Mike Kraus wrote: I built a new instrument panel and installed it right under the Dynon D180..... EFIS, Engine Monitor, GPS, Weather, XM satellite radio, all in two instruments.... -Mike Kraus RV-4 Flying with a new instrument panel..... -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 9:32 PM Subject: RV-List: Where to put garmin GPS I buzzed down to Aircraft Spruce today and took my first really good look at a Garmin 396. I realize I'm the last person in the world to look at one, but I figure that the farther away I stay from more expensive toys, the better on my bank account. One of the neat things about dropping in on Aircraft Spruce on a not so busy day was that they said "Take the GPS, go outside with it, drive around with it if you want." I said "Can I take it for a flight?" and they said "Sure, just have it back by closing time." I'm not sure if they meant that, but it was nice to take the unit outside the store and run through the features for a few minutes. There is simply no way to do that at an airshow. I was very impressed. The menus and features are easy to figure out without relying on a manual, and the resolution is awesome. Anyway, the question I had after giving the thing a good once over is "Where would I put one?". I have a Lowrance Airmap 100, which I usually just rest on my leg, but I don't think the Garmin will work that way. So, side by side RV'ers, where do you put your Garmin GPS? I'm not really interested in putting it on the glareshield, and I've already spent all of my panel space... Now that I've ruled out most of the obvious places, what are your suggestions? Kyle Boatright 2001 RV-6 400+ hours com/Navigator?RV-List ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2006
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Garmin dimensions in CAD
Does anyone have a drawing of the outline of the Garmin 196-296-396 in .dxf, .dwg, .igs, etc. format? I'm doing a panel layout in SolidWorks and am wondering if anyone has the an outtne drawing to make a hole in the panel. If not I will take my gps over to a friends machine shop and have them digitize the outline with their CMM machine. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2006
Subject: Tire Pressures
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Now that the bird is on its own feet, what pressures should they be for my 9A? Mains seem to keep the pressure but the nose has lost some pressure. Refilled it to 32#. ?? Jim Nelson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: jacksonville airplane ordinance
Date: Aug 20, 2006
Here is a good story in the local paper for those that are following this. http://www.jacksonville.com/tu-online/stories/082006/met_4469159.shtml Brian Kraut www.jaxairplane.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Where to put garmin GPS
Date: Aug 20, 2006
Very happy with Garmin 296 in RV-6A slider mounted above the radio stack which is centered in the panel. Top of 296 is just below glare shield overhang. Because the slider has a center longitunal former that is the center support for mounting the panel, it precludes recessing the GPS in the panel at top center. The 296 is surface mounted with an adapter plate using Garmin's bracket. Turns out this works very well because it allows for a slight angle toward the pilot (which can be adjusted) yet the co-pilot can still see it. Also, it puts the 296 a little bit closer which makes it easier to see and to reach the push buttons while flying. One other strange thing. I am using the remote Garmin GPS antenna mounted on the glare shield. When the remote antenna is placed right behind the GPS it will not work. The stub antenna mounted on the GPS works but the remote antenna in the same place does not. Antenna works fine placed forward near windshield and to right of center support. Dale Ensing > So, side by side RV'ers, where do you put your Garmin GPS? I'm not really interested in putting it on the glareshield, and I've already spent all of my panel space... > > Now that I've ruled out most of the obvious places, what are your suggestions? > > Kyle Boatright > 2001 RV-6 > 400+ hours > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 20, 2006
Subject: Re: Where to put garmin GPS
Kyle, Until we redid our panel, we used a "Ram Mount" which kind of put it out on a pedestal with ball joints, lets the copilot view it, etc... They must have a hundred different combos, so something like that could work. _http://www.ram-mount.com/_ (http://www.ram-mount.com/) HTH, Jerry Cochran In a message dated 8/20/2006 12:01:25 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes: From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> Subject: RV-List: Where to put garmin GPS So, side by side RV'ers, where do you put your Garmin GPS? I'm not really interested in putting it on the glareshield, and I've already spent all of my panel space... Now that I've ruled out most of the obvious places, what are your suggestions? Kyle Boatright 2001 RV-6 400+ hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "L Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller6(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Where to put garmin GPS
Date: Aug 20, 2006
Do you have a tip-up or slider?? For two years I had my Garmin 195 loose on my lap/between the seats. Finally I got off my butt and bought a RAM mount( see page 469, Aircraft Spruce). Mounted this versatile/adjustable unit with a couple of screws/ bolts on the left upright spar and cockpit channel. Works great and I like the fact that I can adjust the GPS for any light conditions. Also, can take the GPS home for flight planing, dreaming where to fly next etc. If needed, I can take picture the next time I go to the airport. Lothar, -6A Tip-up, 650 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-4 W&B?
Date: Aug 20, 2006
List, I'm looking for info on W&B for the RV-4. Any thing to watch out for? A W&B file would be great! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "hangerq" <gilbey(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-9 for sale
Date: Aug 20, 2006
listers,posting this for a friend not on the list,he has a beautiful rv9A,that has approx 90 hours on it for sale,I think he wants to be a repeat offender,everything in the plane is new,it has a new 160 lyc engine,with a fixed pitch prop,the panel has a Kx155 with vor head,kt76c transponder/encoder,garmin 155 GPS,the panel was professionally done,he has a console between the seats with a throttle quadrant mounted on it,he is asking $107K,i am sure i am not telling all,i have flown beside this airplane with my 6A with 180 lyc with a CS prop,its fast,he can keep up with me,if any one is interested he can contact by phone at this number,910-818 2820 his name is Bobby Ostendorf, the airplane is at the Fayetteville airport, fayetteville NC frank goggio RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Where to put garmin GPS
Date: Aug 20, 2006
________________________________________________________________________________
From: JhnstnIII(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 20, 2006
Subject: Re: RE: Certification details, was tail lifting...
Gary et al--The form I am looking at does not have form number on it. Perhpas it was cooked up by our local FSDO. It's really more of a checklist of items accomplished. LeRoy Johnston in Ohio. On an Application for Airworthiness (FAA Form 8130-6 http://forms.faa.gov/redirect.asp?fnumber=8130-6&url=forms/faa8130-6d.pdf&hit 19), only sections I, II, and III need filed out by the Applicant for an Experimental Amateur Built Aircraft. Where are you finding a requirement to run the engine 1 hour? I just completed my recurrent training on 24 July 2006. I know of NO requirement for a one hour engine run before your airworthiness inspection. Gary A. Sobek DAR Function Code 46 (Amateur Built Experimental Aircraft) "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,936 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://www.rvdar.com ----Original Message Follows---- From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: RE: Certification details, was tail lifting... Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 10:28:19 -0400 Hi Gerry and list- RE: >"Did you're engine supplier not run your engine in the test >stand before delivering it to you ? It should be marked in the >log book, I think. I.E. do you really need to run it for a >whole hour ? Aerosport ran my engine for a total of 45 mins >before it was delivered - so apart from a short short "shake >down" run and some taxi tests - its next run will be the wild >blue yonder." > Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness > certificate > application it requires the builder to state that "the powerplant > installation has undergone at least one hour of ground > operation at various speeds from > idle to full power. . . ." I have a couple observations / questions- first, my recollection of the procedure is that, yes, the "engine installation" has to be run for an hour. This would indicate that the test cell time does not contribute to meeting this requirement. However, I just went through my airworthiness cert ap, and my copy only references the fact that the aircraft was "inspected and is airworthy and is eligible for the airworthiness certificate requested". Am I missing something, or has the form been changed? My copy is dated 10-04. Has the engine run provision been dropped, or is it relocated somewhere else? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Where to put garmin GPS
Date: Aug 20, 2006
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Certification details, was tail lifting...
Date: Aug 21, 2006
Gary, You are correct. There is no requirement to run it for one hour.....but... ....you could look at it the same way as looking at AD's. There is no requ irement for AD's to be accomplished but no ASI or DAR will (or should) sign off an amateur-built aircraft on initial ceretification unless AD's are do ne. Mike Robertson > From: rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RE: RV-L ist: RE: Certification details, was tail lifting...> Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 tmail.com>> > On an Application for Airworthiness (FAA Form 8130-6 > http:/ /forms.faa.gov/redirect.asp?fnumber=8130-6&url=forms/faa8130-6d.pdf&hit =19), > only sections I, II, and III need filed out by the Applicant for an > Experimental Amateur Built Aircraft.> > Where are you finding a requir ement to run the engine 1 hour? I just > completed my recurrent training o n 24 July 2006. I know of NO requirement > for a one hour engine run befor e your airworthiness inspection.> > Gary A. Sobek> DAR Function Code 46 (Am ateur Built Experimental Aircraft)> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, > 1,936 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA> http://www.rvdar.com> > > > ----Origina l Message Follows----> From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>> Rep ly-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com> To: "RV-List Digest Server" > Subject: RV-List: RE: Certification details, was tail lifting...> D n matejcek" > > Hi Gerry and list-> > RE:> > >"Di d you're engine supplier not run your engine in the test> >stand before de livering it to you ? It should be marked in the> >log book, I think. I.E. do you really need to run it for a> >whole hour ? Aerosport ran my engine for a total of 45 mins> >before it was delivered - so apart from a short s hort "shake> >down" run and some taxi tests - its next run will be the wil d> >blue yonder."> > > Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness> > certificate> > application it requires the builder to s tate that "the powerplant> > installation has undergone at least one hour of ground> > operation at various speeds from> > idle to full power. . . ."> > I have a couple observations / questions- first, my recollection of the> procedure is that, yes, the "engine installation" has to be run for an > hour. This would indicate that the test cell time does not contribute to > meeting this requirement. However, I just went through my airworthiness> cert ap, and my copy only references the fact that the aircraft was> "insp ected and is airworthy and is eligible for the airworthiness> certificate r equested". Am I missing something, or has the form been> changed? My copy is dated 10-04. Has the engine run provision been> dropped, or is it relo =======> > > _________________________________________________________________ Try Live.com: where your online world comes together - with news, sports, w eather, and much more. http://www.live.com/getstarted ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Where to put garmin GPS
Date: Aug 21, 2006
I have the airmap 2000c and put it in the lower left corner of the glare shield with the provided suction clamp. It really works well there. I didnt think I would like it there but I was wrong. Oh yeah, its 2300 dollars cheaper, but no weather capability. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 300+ hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim(at)juno.com> Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:09 PM Subject: RV-List: Where to put garmin GPS > > Kyle, > I am putting my GPS on the mount provided my Airmap 500. It will > be bolted to the left side "P/N F704K upright cap strip" that goes from > the spar up to my roll bar. I have put K1000 nuts behind it so I can > mount anything I want in that area. Since it is an area that is fastened > by the blind rivets, you could just drill them out and put in at least > three blind nuts for max holding power. I'm also putting in three blind > nuts on the co-pilots cap strip for any thing else I may want to hook up > in that area. The mount provided by Lowrance is very flexible. I would > thin that Garmin would have something similar. > > Jim Nelson > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net>
Subject: Re: Tire Pressures
Date: Aug 21, 2006
Harbor Freight has a convenient fixture for inflating through the wheelpant. http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=tire+inflator 41891-0VGA Central Pneumatic Professional TIRE INFLATOR/GAUGE $9.99 This dude has a rubber covered gauge, 15" tube, push-on feature with rubber seal and a button-to-bleed-off over pressure. Grind off the hold-on clip and discarded that dumb thing. Smooth up the remaining knob and the piece fits a 3/4" hole. Mark the tire for the linning up the valve stem ... you're good to go. $4.99 when on sale. Regards ... Jerry Grimmonpre' RV4 Flying RV8A Wires > > > Re: the PITA of filling tires with wheel pants installed. We have bought a > valve stem extender (about 6" long and thin) this is easy to screw onto to > the wheel valve stem and then you can check the tire pressure and fill if > required from outside the wheel pant. > > Chuck Rowbotham > RV- > 8A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 21, 2006
Subject: Re: Tire Pressures
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Hi Linn, Thanks for the return. Several people have given pressures but I think that your idea has much merit. Your right that when the pants are on it is very difficult to measure the pressure. So I think I will try your method. Jim Nelson (damn -- the web is so smart) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 21, 2006
Subject: Re: Tire Pressures
Jim, About 36 psi is a good number for the mains. For the -9A I would try 30 psi in the nose wheel. I use 32 in the nose wheel, but if I had a smaller engine, I would use less. With too much pressure it might tend to shimmy. Dan Hopper RV-7A 200 hp In a message dated 8/21/2006 10:57:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, crowbotham(at)hotmail.com writes: >James H Nelson wrote: > >>--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson >> >>Now that the bird is on its own feet, what pressures should they be for >>my 9A? Mains seem to keep the pressure but the nose has lost some >>pressure. Refilled it to 32#. ?? >> >>Jim Nelson >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 21, 2006
From: Jim Peoples <jp_rv2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?
I got alot of good responses and i appreciate it! After a week of comparing, analyzing, forecasting... I came to the conclusion that i do not know what my requirements may be in 3 yrs, or whether i will want to be doing aerobatics, get an ifr rating, etc. My ultimate, dream aircraft at this point would be an RV-7 with plenty of horsepower and a constant-speed prop... something that would be capable of going in any direction i may want to grow over the next 5 - 10 years. So I have to go for the RV-7! If i am going to spend countless hours in my shop working on this I need to be working on my dream-plane, not something i settled for because i didn't have confidence about my future finances. There will doubtless be compromises as this aircraft becomes a reality, but they won't be engineered into the airframe. thx again, jp (soon-to-b-drivin-rivets) --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 21, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Valve Stem Extender
>Re: the PITA of filling tires with wheel pants installed. We have bought a >valve stem extender (about 6" long and thin) this is easy to screw onto to >the wheel valve stem and then you can check the tire pressure and fill if >required from outside the wheel pant. > >Chuck Rowbotham Where did you find this Chuck? I had to make one using shorter valve stem extenders connected with locktite. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernie & Margo" <ekells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Tire Pressures
Date: Aug 21, 2006
Charles, Linn & Others: You can get a fairly flexible valve stem extender at any camper sales outfit if not at an auto store. Being flexible is a big advantage over rigid. I also bought several stubby chromed valve stem caps. I welded a steel rod to a fitting from my scrap bucket. Now I can fill air and install the valve stem cap thru the little access hole in the wheel pants. Simple. > > > Re: the PITA of filling tires with wheel pants installed. We have bought a > valve stem extender (about 6" long and thin) this is easy to screw onto to > the wheel valve stem and then you can check the tire pressure and fill if > required from outside the wheel pant. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Valve Stem Extender
Date: Aug 21, 2006
Cleveland Tools has a 5 inch extender. see http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/searchprods.asp Or, go to auto parts store and buy a flexible extender that is intended for inner wheel on a dual wheel arranagement. It's about 7 or 8 inches and easier to use because it allows for a bit of mis-alignment of wheel to port in wheel fairing. Dale Ensing > >Re: the PITA of filling tires with wheel pants installed. We have bought a > >valve stem extender (about 6" long and thin) this is easy to screw onto to > >the wheel valve stem and then you can check the tire pressure and fill if > >required from outside the wheel pant. > > > >Chuck Rowbotham > > > Where did you find this Chuck? I had to make one using shorter valve stem > extenders connected with locktite. > > Ron Lee > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 21, 2006
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?
I have to agree with Dan Checkoway. The RV7 with 42 gallons of fuel capacity compared to the 36 gallons with the RV9 must be considered, and the RV7 has less limitations in flight. You'll see us out there looping and rolling and want to join in on the fun... ;-) Darrell --- Jim Peoples wrote: > I got alot of good responses and i appreciate it! > > After a week of comparing, analyzing, > forecasting... I came to the conclusion that i do > not know what my requirements may be in 3 yrs, or > whether i will want to be doing aerobatics, get an > ifr rating, etc. > > My ultimate, dream aircraft at this point would be > an RV-7 with plenty of horsepower and a > constant-speed prop... something that would be > capable of going in any direction i may want to grow > over the next 5 - 10 years. > > So I have to go for the RV-7! If i am going to > spend countless hours in my shop working on this I > need to be working on my dream-plane, not something > i settled for because i didn't have confidence about > my future finances. > > There will doubtless be compromises as this > aircraft becomes a reality, but they won't be > engineered into the airframe. > > thx again, > jp > (soon-to-b-drivin-rivets) > > > --------------------------------- Darrell Reiley RV7A "Reiley Rocket" N622DR Reserved CenTex_RV_Aircraft-owner(at)yahoogroups.com __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 21, 2006
From: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Adel clamps on engine bolts
Standard Adel clamps have a hole that's only big enough for an AN3 bolt, but I need to install some clamps to hold wiring in/around the engine using the AN4 case/sump bolts. Are there special clamps with a 1/4" hole in them, or can I just enlarge the hole in a standard clamp? Thanks. -Geoff RV-8 --------------------------------- Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2006
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Adel clamps on engine bolts
Just enlarge to 1/4 inch. They are especially useful for securing the run of alternator wires under cyls 2 and 4. Use a unibit if you have one, a drill bit will tend to grab the clamp and twist it. Jeff Point RV-6 flying RV-8 preview plans in hand... Milwaukee >* >* > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 22, 2006
Subject: Re: Adel clamps on engine bolts
In a message dated 8/21/2006 10:33:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, hellothaimassage(at)yahoo.com writes: Standard Adel clamps have a hole that's only big enough for an AN3 bolt, but I need to install some clamps to hold wiring in/around the engine using the AN4 case/sump bolts. Are there special clamps with a 1/4" hole in them, or can I just enlarge the hole in a standard clamp? ================================================ McMaster-Carr has lots of cushioned steel clamps with 1/4" clearance holes. They refer to them as Rubber-Cushioned Steel Loop Straps. I would recommend the Silicone cushioned Type 304 Stainless steel ones. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 805hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2006
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Fuel System PIAs
I've been fighting with finalizing my fuel lines firewall forward and having a tough time of it, I'm sure someone can help so the particulars are: RV-6A with tricycle gear (motor mount tubes that provide support to the nose gear mount interfere with certain items in the carburetor area). Mattituck 360 with standard (updraft, ie carburetor) sump. Mattituck installed Airflow Performance fuel injection (updraft servo that mounts on the bottom of the sump) with fuel return valve. Issues include: 1) A flexible fire sleeved fuel line runs from the fuel return valve (mounted right next to the flow divider on top of the engine) straight down between the right side cylinders through a rubber grommet in the inter-cylinder baffles. Where it comes out of the inter-cylinder baffles, if it were to go straight down then around to the servo, it would be right between the crossover pipe of the exhaust and the side of the sump with literally no clearance between the two (ie. It would be squeezed between the exhaust pipe and sump, not a good thing in my book, even with fire-sleeve). But....if I bend the flexible line so it does a 90 degree turn out of the inter-cylinder baffle(toward the rear)above the intake tubes, it looks like a pretty tight bend and I worry about pinching off the flow. Any ideas? 2) Fuel line to the outlet of the mechanical pump. I bought Van's FWF kit which contained an elbow fitting that threads into the outlet of the fuel pump (also contains a tapped hole for the fuel sensor restrictor fitting). Problem is if the fitting is installed with the elbow pointing down, it points right in line with one of the motor mount tubes that supports the nose gear mount, no way the fuel line to the servo will connect to it that way!! Is there a 45 degree fitting or should I try to turn this one aft and see if things work that way? 3) Mechanical fuel pump bypass. An A&P friend was looking at my AFP fuel system and the pump they provide and seemed to think I need to tee the fuel line around the mechanical pump with a check valve so as not to damage the mechanical pump when the electric pump is operating. First I've heard of this but maybe I missed something somewhere. Do I need to make a bypass for the mechanical pump when using the AFP electric fuel pump or can I just run the output of the electric pump directly into the mechanical pump? 4) VM1000 flowscan fuel flow sensor. Looks to me like I'm going to end up mounting it on one of the motor mount tubes with adel clamps and long lines (~2 to 2.5 feet each) between the servo and sensor and the sensor and flow divider. I know Don Rivera of AFP recommends this method but I'm wondering if 4-5 feet of line between the flow divider and servo will cause any problems? Also has anyone done this any other way (ie mounted the flowscan sensor between an updraft servo and flow divider in a more efficient manner, without using long hoses)? Pictures of your finished and working set-up would be most appreciated, this thing has really been bugging me! And, come to think of it as has trying to get the throttle and mixture control cables to hook up, any suggestions here would also be appreciated as Van's standard (carburetor)control cables aren't quite right either! Thanks. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Pullin my hair out (what's left of it) in Florida ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel System PIAs
Date: Aug 22, 2006
> 1) A flexible fire sleeved fuel line runs from the fuel return valve > (mounted right next to the flow divider on top of the engine) straight > down > between the right side cylinders through a rubber grommet in the > inter-cylinder baffles. Where it comes out of the inter-cylinder baffles, > if > it were to go straight down then around to the servo, it would be right > between the crossover pipe of the exhaust and the side of the sump with > literally no clearance between the two (ie. It would be squeezed between > the exhaust pipe and sump, not a good thing in my book, even with > fire-sleeve). But....if I bend the flexible line so it does a 90 degree > turn out of the inter-cylinder baffle(toward the rear)above the intake > tubes, it looks like a pretty tight bend and I worry about pinching off > the > flow. Any ideas? I can speak to this item, at least. I ran my purge return hose straight aft through rear baffle wall, then to the connection on the lower firewall. Photos here: http://www.rvproject.com/20031101.html )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1042 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 22, 2006
Subject: Re: Fuel System PIAs
In a message dated 08/22/2006 2:15:02 AM Central Daylight Time, dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net writes: 2) Fuel line to the outlet of the mechanical pump. I bought Van's FWF kit which contained an elbow fitting that threads into the outlet of the fuel pump (also contains a tapped hole for the fuel sensor restrictor fitting). Problem is if the fitting is installed with the elbow pointing down, it points right in line with one of the motor mount tubes that supports the nose gear mount, no way the fuel line to the servo will connect to it that way!! Is there a 45 degree fitting or should I try to turn this one aft and see if things work that way? >>>> You might not want to replace that new fuel pump, but these pumps are available with the inlet/outlet locations reversed. Since mine was old anyway, I did the following at the suggestion of another builder: http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5457 Perhaps the pump could be exchanged? Really slick workaround for carbureted nosedraggers... Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
Subject: Sun
Date: Aug 22, 2006
Mike, just had a chat with the Trio boys, rev three (climb to altitude) is awesome but the altitude set only has screen data for numerical entries. They are now making a special one for you with the word "sun" encoded for to fly at max altitude attainable. W PS, if you call them make sure that you tell Chuck that Jerry is right. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: fuel system PIAs
From: Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com
Date: Aug 22, 2006
Dean: I have a similar set up as yours, but on a 7A (Aerosport power IO-360B1B (vertical induction, standard sump, AFP fuel injection with purge). With respect to your question #1, I believe you are concerned with the fuel supply line between the servo and purge valve, and NOT the fuel return line that Dan has indicated in his reply, correct? >From memory, I believe I was able to make the tight turn under the inter-cyclinder baffle with no kinking - I certainly dont remember any concerns about being too close to the exhaust. I hope to go to the hangar this evening and I will double check and get back to you. Not sure if the engine mount is different between the 6A and 7A. If so, that may explain why you are having this difficulty while I did not. Cant speak on the fuel pump issue - Its my understanding that people are plumbing the AFP boost pump in series with the engine fuel pump. If thats not the case, somebody get on my case in a hurry. regards, Erich Weaver ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 22, 2006
Subject: Starting Washers and Spacers
I just put my control sticks back in today and came up with a slick way of getting those tiny little washers in place while I got the bolts thru them. This would apply to the aileron hinges too. Just take an AN-3 bolt (or hardware store 10-32 bolt) that has enough unthreaded length and cut it to the dimension of the inside of where the washers go. This makes a spacer to hold everything on while you slide it all into place. In the case of the control sticks on my RV-7A that length is 9/16 inch. Just slide the stack of washer, rod end, washer (which should add up to the length of the spacer) in until you see the spacer through the hole and push the bolt in, which pushes the spacer out. Then use the same spacer again on the other side. I'm sure I'm not the first to stumble on to this trick, but it sure worked better using needle nose pliers, duct tape, safety wire, and all the other things I've tried before. Regards, Dan Hopper RV-7A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2006
From: bertrv6(at)highstream.net
Subject: Re: Starting Washers and Spacers
Quoting Hopperdhh(at)aol.com: > > I just put my control sticks back in today and came up with a slick way of > getting those tiny little washers in place while I got the bolts thru them. > This would apply to the aileron hinges too. > > Just take an AN-3 bolt (or hardware store 10-32 bolt) that has enough > unthreaded length and cut it to the dimension of the inside of where the > washers > go. This makes a spacer to hold everything on while you slide it all into > place. In the case of the control sticks on my RV-7A that length is 9/16 > inch. > > Just slide the stack of washer, rod end, washer (which should add up to the > length of the spacer) in until you see the spacer through the hole and push > the bolt in, which pushes the spacer out. Then use the same spacer again on > the other side. > > I'm sure I'm not the first to stumble on to this trick, but it sure worked > better using needle nose pliers, duct tape, safety wire, and all the other > things I've tried before. > > Regards, > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A > > Dan: ood Idea. I did used regular masking tape, to hold washer,just touching the shaft of the bolt, then push the bolt thru, and gently pull ]the tape off.. any how is a pain either way..some told me they used regular 3m? glue?? Bert rv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larygagnon(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 22, 2006
Subject: Alternate cowl fasteners
A question for those of you that used an alternate method of securing the upper cowl. I'm planning a strip of . 040 extending an inch forward of the firewall and a three inch spacing for whatever fastener I end up using. Is .040 enough? Three inches to close? I used the hinge method on my first project and found the reduced size pin allows the cowl to lift slightly in flight. Thanks in advance for any input. Larry Gagnon RV6 N6LG 0360/Slider RV6A 0360/Tip-up 80% ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Starting Washers and Spacers
Date: Aug 22, 2006
Great idea Dan.thanks. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 5:59 PM Subject: RV-List: Starting Washers and Spacers I just put my control sticks back in today and came up with a slick way of getting those tiny little washers in place while I got the bolts thru them. This would apply to the aileron hinges too. Just take an AN-3 bolt (or hardware store 10-32 bolt) that has enough unthreaded length and cut it to the dimension of the inside of where the washers go. This makes a spacer to hold everything on while you slide it all into place. In the case of the control sticks on my RV-7A that length is 9/16 inch. Just slide the stack of washer, rod end, washer (which should add up to the length of the spacer) in until you see the spacer through the hole and push the bolt in, which pushes the spacer out. Then use the same spacer again on the other side. I'm sure I'm not the first to stumble on to this trick, but it sure worked better using needle nose pliers, duct tape, safety wire, and all the other things I've tried before. Regards, Dan Hopper RV-7A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: Alternate cowl fasteners
Date: Aug 22, 2006
Having done two installations now I recommend you use .063" aluminum instead of .040. Randy Lervold www.rv-3.com www.rv-8.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Larygagnon(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 6:43 PM Subject: RV-List: Alternate cowl fasteners A question for those of you that used an alternate method of securing the upper cowl. I'm planning a strip of . 040 extending an inch forward of the firewall and a three inch spacing for whatever fastener I end up using. Is .040 enough? Three inches to close? I used the hinge method on my first project and found the reduced size pin allows the cowl to lift slightly in flight. Thanks in advance for any input. Larry Gagnon RV6 N6LG 0360/Slider RV6A 0360/Tip-up 80% ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)speedyquick.net>
Subject: Dynon OAT probe location?
Date: Aug 22, 2006
I've finally decided to add a remote compass to my Dynon EFIS, and while I've seen several great ideas for mounting the compass, where do I locate that huge OAT probe? I'd prefer to not have that thing hanging out in the wind, but I'm not sure what to do with it. I'm planning on mounting the compass behind the baggage wall near the top in a 6A, any ideas are greatly appreciated. Ed Bundy -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2006
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC
bertrv6(at)highstream.net wrote: > HI; I AM PLANNING TO BUY THE ALTRAC' UNIT...HOPE IT IS EASIER TO INSTALL > THAN THE NAV AID...ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A BETTER INSTALLATION/ > > PRO'S AND CON'S / > > THANKS > > BERT RV6A Here ya go, Bert: http://thervjournal.com/altrak.htm The AlTrak is a good unit. However, for a system with more features check out the EZ-1 and EZ-2 pitch autopilots from Trio: http://thervjournal.com/EZ-2.htm Whichever system you use, you will be spoiled very quickly! :-) Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com>
Subject: -6A Engine Mount Clearance
Date: Aug 22, 2006
I've installed my engine mount on the firewall and attached the gear leg. The problem is, with the bolt head closest to the firewall, it touches the firewall. The other way around, I can't get the nut in there; it's too thick. Have any of you -6A, -7A, or -9A builders run into this? If so, what was the solution? Spacers between the mount and firewall? Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - In the hanger and wheels installed (not final) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Adel clamps on engine bolts
Date: Aug 21, 2006
FWIW, I used a unibit and enlarged a few MS21919 holes to 1/4". Same thing, mounted 'em on a few of the bolts around the sump. Hasn't fallen out of the sky yet. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1042 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Geoff Evans To: RV List Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:29 PM Subject: RV-List: Adel clamps on engine bolts Standard Adel clamps have a hole that's only big enough for an AN3 bolt, but I need to install some clamps to hold wiring in/around the engine using the AN4 case/sump bolts. Are there special clamps with a 1/4" hole in them, or can I just enlarge the hole in a standard clamp? Thanks. -Geoff RV-8 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance
Date: Aug 22, 2006
knock a dent /drill a hole in the firewall if its for the front gear leg, the firewall forward kit comes with a button to fill that new void you just made.. I just dented mine.. didn't go through the ss.. ----- Original Message ----- From: Patrick Kelley To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:40 PM Subject: RV-List: -6A Engine Mount Clearance I've installed my engine mount on the firewall and attached the gear leg. The problem is, with the bolt head closest to the firewall, it touches the firewall. The other way around, I can't get the nut in there; it's too thick. Have any of you -6A, -7A, or -9A builders run into this? If so, what was the solution? Spacers between the mount and firewall? Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - In the hanger and wheels installed (not final) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2006
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Dynon OAT probe location?
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/Dynon.htm As for the OAT probe, I put mine in the fairing between the lower HS and the fuse. I don't have a pic but it is easy to figure out. Jeff Point RV-6 flying RV-8 preview plans Milwaukee > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Alternate cowl fasteners
Date: Aug 23, 2006
I have 10 #6 screws across the top cowl at the firewall and the installation has held up very well over 5+ years and 400+ hours. I used a 0.063 strip, but that's what I had at the time. 0.040 should be fine. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: Larygagnon(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 9:43 PM Subject: RV-List: Alternate cowl fasteners A question for those of you that used an alternate method of securing the upper cowl. I'm planning a strip of . 040 extending an inch forward of the firewall and a three inch spacing for whatever fastener I end up using. Is .040 enough? Three inches to close? I used the hinge method on my first project and found the reduced size pin allows the cowl to lift slightly in flight. Thanks in advance for any input. Larry Gagnon RV6 N6LG 0360/Slider RV6A 0360/Tip-up 80% ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 23, 2006
Subject: Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance
Patrick, I would say let it touch, or force the firewall back a little if its only 1/16 inch or so. You will want to make a hole to enable you to get the bolt out should you ever need to remove the gear leg. Why would you need to remove the gear le g? Sometimes the hole becomes sloppy (elongates), or you may bend the gear leg like I did! The bolt on the -7 is inserted from the back side of the firew all through this hole and the all-metal locknut is installed on the front (top) side. My plans say a 3/4 inch hole one place and a 1 inch hole another place. Th e plug that came with my kit was 7/8, I believe. Anyway, it was a poor fit into the 3/4 inch hole, but I got it in there. What I did the second time around was to sight down the bolt hole to locate the firewall hole, then remove the mount and used a unibit to drill the hol e. You can get any size plug at hardware stores, or in the plumbing departmen t of the big stores. Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/22/2006 11:43:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, webmaster(at)flion.com writes: I=99ve installed my engine mount on the firewall and attached the gea r leg. The problem is, with the bolt head closest to the firewall, it touches the firewall. The other way around, I can=99t get the nut in there; it =99s too thick. Have any of you -6A, -7A, or -9A builders run into this? If so, what was the solution? Spacers between the mount and firewall? Patrick Kelley =93 RV-6A =93 In the hanger and wheels installed (not final) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Alternate cowl fasteners
Date: Aug 23, 2006
I copied the installation method shown in the plans with the camlocs. Great product. I used 063 but trimmed it so it had a saw tooth shape. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 295 hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: Larygagnon(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 8:43 PM Subject: RV-List: Alternate cowl fasteners A question for those of you that used an alternate method of securing the upper cowl. I'm planning a strip of . 040 extending an inch forward of the firewall and a three inch spacing for whatever fastener I end up using. Is .040 enough? Three inches to close? I used the hinge method on my first project and found the reduced size pin allows the cowl to lift slightly in flight. Thanks in advance for any input. Larry Gagnon RV6 N6LG 0360/Slider RV6A 0360/Tip-up 80% ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2006
From: Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: Dynon OAT probe location?
I don't remember how long that wire was that came with the probe but you might be able to reach the bulkhead just forward of the VS and put it in that bulkhead so that it's facing aft under the emp fairing. I have mine there and it works okay. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB http://www.myrv7.com Ed Bundy wrote: > > I've finally decided to add a remote compass to my Dynon EFIS, and while > I've seen several great ideas for mounting the compass, where do I locate > that huge OAT probe? I'd prefer to not have that thing hanging out in the > wind, but I'm not sure what to do with it. > > I'm planning on mounting the compass behind the baggage wall near the top in > a 6A, any ideas are greatly appreciated. > > Ed Bundy > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2006
From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: Alternate cowl fasteners
>I used 063 but trimmed it so it had a saw tooth shape.< I second the trimming part. If you don't trim it back between the fasten ers the metal will tend to have an upward curve to it causing the cowl to si t up higher. Tim, Rv-6 -------Original Message------- From: Jeff Dowling Date: 08/23/06 07:31:45 Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate cowl fasteners I copied the installation method shown in the plans with the camlocs. Gr eat product. I used 063 but trimmed it so it had a saw tooth shape. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 295 hours Chicago/Louisville ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2006
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV7 Replacement Flap Push Rod (Response)
Van's Response: Darrell, Some of our customers have chosen to purchase the RV-9 flap push rods to use on their RV-6/7/8 aircraft, part number VA-256 $12.00 each -threaded hex rod. In order to use those you would have to enlarge the hole where the pushrod goes thru the fuselage. Also, as this piece was intended for the RV-9= larger flap, it will be too long. So when you trim the hex rod down, you would trim a little off each end. If you trim it all off one side, you may cut off all the threads. This modification doesn't hurt anything of course (as long as the rod is installed correctly), but it isn't necessary. We are, of course, always happy to sell more parts! :) Jessica V JUST FYI... Darrell Reiley RV7A "Reiley Rocket" N622DR Reserved CenTex_RV_Aircraft-owner(at)yahoogroups.com __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Alternate cowl fasteners
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 23, 2006
Larygagnon(at)aol.com wrote: > A question for those of you that used an alternate method of securing the upper cowl. I'm planning a strip of . 040 extending an inch forward of the firewall and a three inch spacing for whatever fastener I end up using. Is .040 enough? Three inches to close?........... Larry, I sheared a width of aluminum off a 4' piece of .050 stock. To maintain adequate e.d. on the upper cowl screw holes, I believe the width of that strap is going to come in something greater than one inch. It's more like 2 inches or better. My strap nests against the radius of the firewall completely around its overall 4' length and in doing so, the edge of the strap has to be radiused and trimmed here and there to conform to the radius of the firewall. In doing so, that edge of the strap will not end up perfectly straight. I suggest you initially cut your material considerably wider than you anticipate. You can always trim it back later as required. Your planned material thickness and hole spacing seem about right to me. Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 162 Hours http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/6199/firewall7edited40ki7.jpg Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56717#56717 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JEllis9847(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 23, 2006
Subject: Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance
Another way to attach the nose strut is with a tapered pin. You will still need a hole in the firewall if you want to remove the strut for repairs or replacement in the future. See: _http://www.rvwiki.org/index.php?title=Nose_Gear_Strut_ (http://www.rvwiki.org/index.php?title=Nose_Gear_Strut) This is for a 9-A but I think it is similar to a 6-A. Jim Ellis RV9-A, N155T Flying 12 hours (Yippee!) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance
From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Date: Aug 23, 2006
>From the wiki my understanding is that this can help with nose wheel shimmy induced by movement in this joint. Is this the same thing at issue with tail dragger main gear shimmy ? I've heard that the solution is to deflate the main tires to around 22 lbs to dampen the shimmy. If the source of the problem is the same, the taper pin might be better solution than deflating the tires. g > Another way to attach the nose strut is with a tapered pin. > You will still > need a hole in the firewall if you want to remove the strut for > repairs or > replacement in the future. > > See: > > _http://www.rvwiki.org/index.php?title=Nose_Gear_Strut_ > ( ) > > This is for a 9-A but I think it is similar to a 6-A. > > Jim Ellis > RV9-A, N155T > Flying 12 hours (Yippee!) > -- __g__ ========================================================== Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com Tel: 415 203 9177 ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: insufficient seat recline
From: Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com
Date: Aug 23, 2006
I am not quite comfortable with the existing maximum seat recline on my -7 A. Its actually more comfortable for me to take out the seat back cushion and use the bare aluminum frame alone so that I can lean back an extra couple of inches. Effective, but pretty ugly. Has anyone modified the crossbar that limits the recline to allow a few more inches ? thanks Erich Weaver ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2006
From: "Clyde Rosenvall" <clyderosenvall(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blue Mountain Autopilot
Time: 4:21 PM MT From: clyderosenvall(at)gmail.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Pilot I have a new auto pilot that can be used with any Blue Mountain EFIS. It has been installed in my RV-8 but only on long enough to test it, mybe 15 minutes. I have the bracketts that I made to install it. If anyone has a need for it please contact me off line. rotary RV-8 130 hrs Thanks; Clyde ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2006
From: Cory Emberson <bootless(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Anyone Ever Use a Smoke Hood? (Magazine Feedback)
Hello all - I'm finishing up a piece for Aviation Consumer about smoke escape hoods, and would like to get your experiences, if any, in actually using an escape hood. Of course, use in an aircraft would be most germane, but if you've used one to escape a structure fire of any sort, that would also be very helpful. My (non-spam) email is: bootless ((at)) earthlink ((dot)) com. Thanks very much! best, Cory Emberson > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2006
From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: insufficient seat recline
Erich, Is moving the pedals forward and then using a more forward seat hinge a g ood option? This would give you more incline. Sounds like moving the seat b ack brace would be a bigger issue. Tim -------Original Message------- From: Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com Date: 08/23/06 14:22:38 Subject: RV-List: insufficient seat recline I am not quite comfortable with the existing maximum seat recline on my -7 A. Its actually more comfortable for me to take out the seat back cushio n and use the bare aluminum frame alone so that I can lean back an extra couple of inches. Effective, but pretty ugly. Has anyone modified the crossbar that limits the recline to allow a few more inches ? thanks Erich Weaver ========== ========== ========== ========== ========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2006
From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: RV-6 Manual Flaps control rod length
Hi Listers, The plans call for the F659 rod to be 3 1/2" long. With this length, my handle will not go in the top notch of the F658A flap anchor. Has it bee n everyones experience the 659 rod needs to be shorter? Thanks Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6 Manual Flaps control rod length
Date: Aug 23, 2006
If things are aligned properly, one particular length should work in each of your flap notches. What the right length is, well, that depends on all of the other pieces in the flap assembly. It has been a long time since I built the flap control handle and assorted parts, but I remember having to remake the flap anchor (that's the curved piece with the notches in it, right?) because it didn't make an even-radius arc segment around the pivot point for the flap handle. That caused binding problems in the slot in the handle, and probably meant that one flap notch worked well, and another didn't. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Bryan To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 9:28 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Manual Flaps control rod length Hi Listers, The plans call for the F659 rod to be 3 1/2" long. With this length, my handle will not go in the top notch of the F658A flap anchor. Has it been everyones experience the 659 rod needs to be shorter? Thanks Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Price on Altrak unit
Date: Aug 23, 2006
Bert, Try steinair.com or starkavionics.com I have heard good things about both of them. Terry Hi: Any place besides, well known suppliers, such as Spruce, Wicks, Van/'s etc/ that have best price on this unit? I heard about E-bay. but also I have heard, bad things on this.. do not have any idea how it works, can you loose your money? Suggestions? Bert rv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com>
Subject: -6A Engine Mount Clearance
Date: Aug 23, 2006
Thanks for all the responses. I happened to need to call Van's to order some parts and asked about it and was told that since about 5 years ago the plans call for a hole to be drilled. That's what I get for an old fuselage kit and a new finish kit. All better now. I have a 7/7A preview plans set and, sure enough, there it is. Thanks again for all the advice. Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - wings on, plumbing continuing. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV7 Replacement Flap Push Rod (Response)
Date: Aug 23, 2006
I'm fairly certain I didn't have to trim the hex pushrod for use on my RV-8. The rod end bearing must have compensated for any length difference. - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Darrell Reiley [mailto:lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com] > Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 11:21 AM > To: RV-List > Subject: RV-List: RV7 Replacement Flap Push Rod (Response) > > --> > > Van's Response: > > Darrell, > Some of our customers have chosen to purchase the > RV-9 flap push rods to use on their RV-6/7/8 aircraft, part > number VA-256 $12.00 each -threaded hex rod. In order to use > those you would have to enlarge the hole where the pushrod > goes thru the fuselage. Also, as this piece was intended for > the RV-9= larger flap, it will be too long. So when you trim > the hex rod down, you would trim a little off each end. If > you trim it all off one side, you may cut off all the threads. > > This modification doesn't hurt anything of course (as > long as the rod is installed correctly), but it isn't necessary. > > We are, of course, always happy to sell more parts! > :) > > Jessica V > > JUST FYI... > > > Darrell Reiley > RV7A "Reiley Rocket" > N622DR Reserved > > CenTex_RV_Aircraft-owner(at)yahoogroups.com > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Photoshare, and much much more: > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9
>One last comment I will share from the same engineer at Van's I spoke with >that day. He said, "it has been their experience that an >RV-7/7A Lycoming 0-320 160 HP is the BEST engine/airframe >combination...". I've flown both a 180 HP RV-7A and my 160 HP model and >the only difference I can tell is climb in the 160 HP airplane is about >200 FPM on average less than the 180 HP. Oh.. and I burn about .5 to 1.0 >gallons less per hour... thus extending my cross-country range. I fly >4.0-4.5 hour cross country legs and always have an hour or better reserve >when I land. > >Sorry Ron... I know you are an advocate for 180-HP or better in the >RV-7/7A but I venture to same more of us live and fly from airports >at/near mean sea level than 7KFT in the mountains... I've flown my RV-7A >from airports at 9KFT density altitude... no problem! > >Jack Lockamy Insert friendly smiley as appropriate. Nice try Jack. I flew from 00V to east of Albuquerque and back non-stop and had about an hours worth of fuel left. I would need to find the flight log to give you the exact amount. The flight duration was about 4.4 hours. And that was starting with six gallons LESS than a RV 7(A). Actually I will say that I had 46 minutes of fuel remaining. Thusly therefor I don't buy the argument that a 180 HP burns more fuel than a 160 HP all other things being the same. That comment is based upon going the same speed versus same percentage power setting. But given all that people will do whatever they wish. Thanks for the lead on the flexible valve stem extender. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Price on Altrak unit
From: "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Aug 23, 2006
Check out: http://www.affordablepanels.com/trutrak_autopilots.htm Fabian seems to have decent discounts on some of these items. -------- RV-7A N777TY (res) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56871#56871 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Weight Budget Managment Template
Date: Aug 24, 2006
Hi All, Has anyone made an Excel template for managing a weight budget (not weight and balance) that they are willing to share. I'm looking for something that can be configured as an indented bill of materials (BOM), and will sum weights for assemblies and sub-assemblies. Any help or recommendation would be appreciated. Thanks, Dean RV-4 Bolton, MA _________________________________________________________________ Get the new Windows Live Messenger! http://imagine-msn.com/messenger/launch80/default.aspx?locale=en-us&source=wlmailtagline ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 24, 2006
Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
In a message dated 8/24/2006 7:47:25 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, KBelue@drs-tem.com writes: In my experience, an RV-x with 160hp and an RV-x with 180hp flying together at the same speed (both with the same prop: fixed pitch or CS, and both with the same induction: carb. or FI) consume almost exactly the same amount of fuel. The only variance seems to be the amount one might be able to lean over the other. If they both fly @ 75% power, the 180hp uses more fuel, but is going faster (~10 mph). Kevin D. Belue RV-6A 700hrs. RV-10 finish I would think that the lower weight would give an advantage to the O-320 powered ship. Dan Hopper RV-7A 200 HP wishing it were lighter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2006
From: "Steve Sampson" <ssamps(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Attaching floors with nutplates.
Is it OK to substitute nutplanes and #6 screws for LP4-3 rivets when installing the floors? Thanks, Steve. RV4 #4478 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Beadle" <dan.beadle(at)inclinesoftworks.com>
Subject: Attaching floors with nutplates.
Date: Aug 24, 2006
I did this in my RV8. I wanted access for future plumbing and wiring. In the RV8, the forward floors are screwed, the rest riveted. The rivet pattern is much closer, so I figure that using screws will do the job. I did us #8's though (same as in the front floor). They are 1/3 larger, but nearly twice as strong. I also screwed in the floor of the rear baggage area for the same reason. Dan _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Sampson Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 10:36 AM Subject: RV-List: Attaching floors with nutplates. Is it OK to substitute nutplanes and #6 screws for LP4-3 rivets when installing the floors? Thanks, Steve. RV4 #4478 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2006
From: Steve Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>
Subject: Re: Attaching floors with nutplates.
Steve Sampson wrote: > Is it OK to substitute nutplanes and #6 screws for LP4-3 rivets when > installing the floors? Thanks, Steve. RV4 #4478 I am using #8 screws and nut plates for the floor and baggage area side panels. Sure hope there isn't a problem with using screws. Steve Eberhart RV-7A, flipping the canoe this weekend. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Attaching floors with nutplates.
I used countersunk #8's for consistency - glad I used the nutplates! Pictures zap me direct...... -----Original Message----- >From: Steve Sampson <ssamps(at)gmail.com> >Sent: Aug 24, 2006 1:35 PM >To: rv-list >Subject: RV-List: Attaching floors with nutplates. > >Is it OK to substitute nutplanes and #6 screws for LP4-3 rivets when >installing the floors? Thanks, Steve. RV4 #4478 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2006
From: <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Attaching floors with nutplates.
---- Steve Eberhart wrote: > > Steve Sampson wrote: > > > Is it OK to substitute nutplanes and #6 screws for LP4-3 rivets when > > installing the floors? Thanks, Steve. RV4 #4478 > > I am using #8 screws and nut plates for the floor and baggage area side > panels. Sure hope there isn't a problem with using screws. > > Steve Eberhart > RV-7A, flipping the canoe this weekend. Steve, Early on in my 8A project, my RV guru warned me to avoid using screw/nutplate combinations smaller than #8. He said that in certified aircraft, the incidence of broken or seized hardware went WAY up, below #8 size. I even upsized the #6 tailcone access screws to #8 for that reason. One tip when using flush #8 screws, use a #17 rather than a #19 drill bit in any sheet aluminum which will require a #8 dimple. This is because the aluminum is distorted a considerable amount with #8 and larger flush screws. You are very likely to get lots of micro cracks (which will spread over time) if you use the smaller #19 bit. The extra hole size stress relieves the hole during dimpling. Test this out on a piece of scrap. Check the dimple around the #19 hole with a Jeweler's loop or magnifying glass. Charlie Kuss ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Attaching floors with nutplates.
Date: Aug 24, 2006
I would consider using torx screws . I hate removing those #8 phillip heads. Same with the seat panels and baggage panels. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 295 hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Sampson To: rv-list Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 12:35 PM Subject: RV-List: Attaching floors with nutplates. Is it OK to substitute nutplanes and #6 screws for LP4-3 rivets when installing the floors? Thanks, Steve. RV4 #4478 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2006
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Trio Avionics Autopilot Install Website
bertrv6(at)highstream.net wrote: >> DANA: I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT IS THE PRICE OF THAT SYSTEM, IN > COMPARISON, WITH THE ALTRAK UNIT// > > BERT > RV6A Everything you need to know about Trio Avionics's systems: http://www.trioavionics.com Jerry, Chuck or Sid (the Trio) will be happy to talk to you as well. Phone number is on the website. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2006
From: rv6(at)grandecom.net
Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
Quoting Hopperdhh(at)aol.com: Well said. > > In a message dated 8/24/2006 7:47:25 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > KBelue@drs-tem.com writes: > > In my experience, an RV-x with 160hp and an RV-x with 180hp flying together > at the same speed (both with the same prop: fixed pitch or CS, and both with > the same induction: carb. or FI) consume almost exactly the same amount of > fuel. The only variance seems to be the amount one might be able to lean > over > the other. If they both fly @ 75% power, the 180hp uses more fuel, but is > going faster (~10 mph). > > Kevin D. Belue > RV-6A 700hrs. > RV-10 finish > > > I would think that the lower weight would give an advantage to the O-320 > powered ship. > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A 200 HP wishing it were lighter > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2006
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
I will agree 100%, a 320 platform with a few accessory mods would be the perfect power plant for the RV7. Use Dan Checkoways leaning rules, a 320 with FI & EI will be the efficient performer. Darrell --- rv6(at)grandecom.net wrote: > > Quoting Hopperdhh(at)aol.com: > > Well said. > > > > > > In a message dated 8/24/2006 7:47:25 A.M. Eastern > Daylight Time, > > KBelue@drs-tem.com writes: > > > > In my experience, an RV-x with 160hp and an RV-x > with 180hp flying together > > at the same speed (both with the same prop: fixed > pitch or CS, and both with > > the same induction: carb. or FI) consume almost > exactly the same amount of > > fuel. The only variance seems to be the amount > one might be able to lean > > over > > the other. If they both fly @ 75% power, the > 180hp uses more fuel, but is > > going faster (~10 mph). > > > > Kevin D. Belue > > RV-6A 700hrs. > > RV-10 finish > > > > > > > > > > I would think that the lower weight would give an > advantage to the O-320 > > powered ship. > > > > Dan Hopper > > RV-7A 200 HP wishing it were lighter > > > > > > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > Web Forums! > > > Admin. > > > > > __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
Date: Aug 24, 2006
On 24 Aug 2006, at 10:49, Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 8/24/2006 7:47:25 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > KBelue@drs-tem.com writes: > In my experience, an RV-x with 160hp and an RV-x with 180hp flying > together at the same speed (both with the same prop: fixed pitch or > CS, and both with the same induction: carb. or FI) consume almost > exactly the same amount of fuel. The only variance seems to be the > amount one might be able to lean over the other. If they both fly @ > 75% power, the 180hp uses more fuel, but is going faster (~10 mph). > > > Kevin D. Belue > > RV-6A 700hrs. > > RV-10 finish > > > I would think that the lower weight would give an advantage to the > O-320 powered ship. > The speed change for a 10 to 20 lb weight reduction is negligible, as the vast majority of the drag at cruise speeds is profile drag, and it does not vary with weight. The induced drag, which does vary with the square of weight, is less than 15% of the total drag at typical cruise speeds (data from the CAFE Foundation APR on the RV-6A) . The CAFE foundation data suggests that it would take about a 100 lb weight reduction to realize a 1 mph speed increase, assuming everything else was equal. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Attaching floors with nutplates.
Date: Aug 24, 2006
Steve: I used nut plates on the floors of my 4 and was very glad I did. I removed the floors at each annual and once when a passenger got sick in the airplane. You would not believe how much stuff collects on the skins below the floors; dirt, moisture, etc. It's nice to be able to clean it out now and then. Dick Sipp ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Sampson To: rv-list Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 1:35 PM Subject: RV-List: Attaching floors with nutplates. Is it OK to substitute nutplanes and #6 screws for LP4-3 rivets when installing the floors? Thanks, Steve. RV4 #4478 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2006
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC
bertrv6(at)highstream.net wrote: >> >> Here ya go, Bert: >> >> http://thervjournal.com/altrak.htm >> >> The AlTrak is a good unit. However, for a system with more features >> check out the EZ-1 and EZ-2 pitch autopilots from Trio: >> >> http://thervjournal.com/EZ-2.htm >> >> Whichever system you use, you will be spoiled very quickly! :-) >> >> Sam Buchanan >> > > > SAM; I HAVE A QUESTION, ON YOUR WEB PAGE, I SEE ON YOUR INSTALLATION > FOR THE ALTRAK,,,THERE ARE TWO UNITS... BUT THEN ON THE > ADVERTISING, FOR ALTRAK, THEY SHOW ONLY ONE THING... > > THEY TALK ALSO ABOUT SERVO...WHAT DO YOU GET WHEN YOU BUY > ALTRAK, DO ONE GET EVERYTHING, LIKE YOU HAVE SHOWN ON YOUR > PLANE// > OR IS SOMETHING ELSE.. > > CAN ONE BUY JUST ONE UNIT, OR IS PART OF THE WHOLE THING.. > > SORRY ABOUT MY CONFUSION... AlTrak ships with servo, control unit, switch, some hardware, documentation, and bracket. Trio EZ-2 ships with servo, control unit, rotary encoder, LCD annunciator, complete hardware kit, documentation, and bracket. You may also be seeing in the photos the superb Trio EZ-Pilot which is a GPS-slaved autopilot. It ships with with or without servo (is also compatible with Navaid servo), control head, bracket, documentation, and hardware. Once again, a call to the manufacturers will answer all your questions. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC
Date: Aug 24, 2006
One good thing I can say about the NavAid is that it will work as a wing leveler whereas the Trio won't do anything without GPS Input although I may be wrong about this. Also, the NavAid is better than nothing even though the Trio is a far superior device. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2006
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC
Albert Gardner wrote: > > One good thing I can say about the NavAid is that it will work as a wing > leveler whereas the Trio won't do anything without GPS Input although I may > be wrong about this. The part of the statement about the Navaid is correct, but not the part about the Trio. The EZ-Pilot works quite well as a wing leveler without GPS but is superb with GPS data. Since GPS is so reliable, this is probably a moot point. Also, the NavAid is better than nothing even though the > Trio is a far superior device. I certainly agree with this point. :-) Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net
Subject: Unusual ring gear tooth wear
Date: Aug 25, 2006
Engine Gurus, I have about 255 hours total time on my factory new O-360A1A and have noticed that the wear pattern on the flywheel ring gear looks as if the starter gear is engaging only about the top 1/16 inch or less of each ring gear tooth. Also it looks as if the teeth on the ring gear are wearing slightly rounded, with slightly more wear on the aft part. The engine was delivered from Van's with a Sky-Tec starter that otherwise seems to work great and really spins up the engine on startup. Can anyone comment on this type of ring gear wear pattern as to whether it is normal or do I have a problem developing? Also, it possible that my starter could have the wrong tooth size for the ring gear and have been operating reasonably well for this many hours? Appreciate any thoughts on this. -- Harry Crosby RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours
Engine Gurus,
 
I have about 255 hours total time on my factory new O-360A1A and have noticed that the wear pattern on the flywheel ring gear looks as if the starter gear is engaging only about the top 1/16 inch or less of each ring gear tooth.  Also it looks as if the teeth on the ring gear are wearing slightly rounded, with slightly more wear on the aft part.  The engine was delivered from Van's with a Sky-Tec starter that otherwise seems to work great and really spins up the engine on startup. 
 
Can anyone comment on this type of ring gear wear pattern as to whether it is normal or do I have a problem developing?  Also, it possible that my starter could have the wrong tooth size for the ring gear and have been operating reasonably well for this many hours?
 
Appreciate any thoughts on this.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel System PIAs
From: "Don" <airflow2(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Aug 25, 2006
You have a lot of questions here. First with out seeing your installation with the exhaust system installed I dont know about this interference problem with the metered fuel hose. But if you e-mailed me a picture Im sure we could resolve this problem easily. You might require a different hose than the one you have. So if you have additional questions on this give me a call. The mechanical fuel pump outlet problem is a new one. Or at least no one has called me on this problem yet. Theres no problem with repositioning the fuel outlet fitting on the pump so the hose will not interfere with the engine mount. There should be enough hose to do that. There again, a special hose might be needed for your application. There is no need to connect the boost pump and engine driven pump in parallel. This only creates more plumbing, connections and additional check valves in the system. Hook the boost pump and engine driven pump in series. Theres no problem with this installation and its done on most certified installations. Keep the metered fuel lines short as possible. I have done installations where the hoses support the Flowscan unit. Theres no need to run the hoses back to the engine mount or fire wall then up to the purge valve inlet. We have done installations where the hose coming out of the fuel control is 3-4 inches long, attaches to the Flowscan unit and the hose goes directly to the purge valve inlet. The hoses support the Flowscan unit. We firesleeve the Flowscan unit after the hoses are connected. This has worked well so far. I have probably done this at least 6 times this way. If you have specific questions about your Airflow Performance fuel injection system, please dont hesitate to give us a call or e-mail. Don airflow2(at)bellsouth.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57204#57204 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doc Custer" <ddcuster@wmv-co.us>
Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
Date: Aug 25, 2006
The 7 is a heavy plane -- stressed for aerobatics. The 9 is much lighter and has a modern wing while the 7 uses an old NACA airfoil. The 9 is thus more efficient: Less weight, better wing. Still -- it all depends on the mission. Ask the guys at Vans who fly long distance cross country which plane they would rather take. I did. The agreement was unanimous -- take the 9 for cross country. If you want to be upside down go with the 7. Simple. Just look at Van's design goals with both the 7 and the 9. Van's designs are very successful based on which mission is going to be flown. If you get a plane designed for one mission and fly it on different missions regularly you are not going to be as satisfied as the guy who flies the plane on the mission for which it was designed. Doc ----- Original Message ----- From: <rv6(at)grandecom.net> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 4:42 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ? > > Quoting Hopperdhh(at)aol.com: > > Well said. > > >> >> In a message dated 8/24/2006 7:47:25 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, >> KBelue@drs-tem.com writes: >> >> In my experience, an RV-x with 160hp and an RV-x with 180hp flying >> together >> at the same speed (both with the same prop: fixed pitch or CS, and both >> with >> the same induction: carb. or FI) consume almost exactly the same amount >> of >> fuel. The only variance seems to be the amount one might be able to lean >> over >> the other. If they both fly @ 75% power, the 180hp uses more fuel, but >> is >> going faster (~10 mph). >> >> Kevin D. Belue >> RV-6A 700hrs. >> RV-10 finish >> >> >> >> >> I would think that the lower weight would give an advantage to the O-320 >> powered ship. >> >> Dan Hopper >> RV-7A 200 HP wishing it were lighter >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2006
From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
On 6:59:10 2006-08-25 "Doc Custer" <ddcuster@wmv-co.us> wrote: > > The 7 is a heavy plane -- stressed for aerobatics. The 9 is much > lighter and has a modern wing while the 7 uses an old NACA airfoil. > The 9 is thus more efficient: Less weight, better wing. >From the Van's website: RV-9 Empty Weight 1015 - 1057 lbs Gross Weight 1600 - 1750 lbs RV-7 Empty Weight 1061 - 1114 lbs Gross Weight 1800 lbs I don't think it's safe to say that the -7 is a "heavy" plane compared to the -9. AFter all, it uses the same fuselage, and probably the same gear and engine mount. The only difference is the horizontal stab and the wing. Beyond that, your choice of engine and avionics will determine your empty weight more than your choice of airframe. > If you want to be upside down go with the 7. That was my criteria. :) -Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2006
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual ring gear tooth wear
This is a problem I've seen with Sky-Tec starters on at least three occasions, not enough ring gear engagement. If you call them of course it won't be their fault. Once you can't get the thing to crank over the first compression, then they'll blame the engine manufacturer, then your wiring, your battery, your solenoid, your mother, etc. I used to poo-poo B&C's because of the cost until I did some horsetrading and got one on a trade. Now without question I believe that it is the best starter, with the new Sky-Tec high-torque starter in close second. They're both about the same price ($550). The B&C is geared slightly taller which helps it overcome the first compression stroke with ease, just a little bit better (but slower) than the high-torque inline starter from Sky-Tec, but not by much. A friend and I did testing on his F1 of three different starters (Sky-Tec Flyweight, my B&C, and the Sky-Tec high torque model). The Flyweight's planetary gearing (which is plastic!) can only be rebuilt by them; as far as cranking performance goes it was in dead-last place. One big advantage of the B&C is that it is rebuildable by your local starter shop. I rebuilt the used one I got to like new condition for $38.00. BTW the better two of the three starters fully engaged the ring gear. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On 8/25/06, HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote: > > Engine Gurus, > > I have about 255 hours total time on my factory new O-360A1A and have > noticed that the wear pattern on the flywheel ring gear looks as if the > starter gear is engaging only about the top 1/16 inch or less of each ring > gear tooth. Also it looks as if the teeth on the ring gear are wearing > slightly rounded, with slightly more wear on the aft part. The engine was > delivered from Van's with a Sky-Tec starter that otherwise seems to work > great and really spins up the engine on startup. > > Can anyone comment on this type of ring gear wear pattern as to whether it > is normal or do I have a problem developing? Also, it possible that my > starter could have the wrong tooth size for the ring gear and have been > operating reasonably well for this many hours? > > Appreciate any thoughts on this. > -- > Harry Crosby > RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
Subject: Matching Paint
Date: Aug 25, 2006
I had my RV6 painted by James Barnhart at Air Colors, Urbana, OH in November 2004. He did a pretty good job, but unfortunately went out of business and disappeared with no forwarding address in October 2005. At the time he painted my plane, I had picked out the colors I wanted from the Sherwin Williams chart, and gave him those numbers. He asked if he could use PPG, could match my colors, and he preferred their system. I said okay, but unfortunately he never provided the PPG paint spec numbers back to me in either the contract or the final invoice. I never thought about it at the time. I recently asked a buddy who has painted autos professionally for years if he could touch up a few scratches now on my plane. He contacted PPG who said they didn't have a direct cross reference to the SW colors, apparently having a larger number of color tints that SW. They remembered James and the "great records" he kept and couldn't understand why I didn't have the specs for my plane. So here I am. If anyone knows where James Barnhart has surfaced in the country and can get a message to him, I'm not trying to hold him to the warranty, but I really need the paint specs for my plane. If anyone else has an idea on how to match it without buying eight different gallons of paint, I would appreciate it. Duane Bentley RV6 N515DB 190 hrs and flying well West Chester, OH ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 25, 2006
Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
Doc, Pretty sure the -7 and -9 have exactly the same fuselage, except for where the wing brackets are for mounting the front of the wing, and possibly some other very small differences. The reason the -9 is not aerobatic is mainly because of the longer wings, and possibly because of a weaker horizontal stab. Weights are about the same for a given powerplant. I was referring earlier to the engine being lighter. Can't speak too much about how the -9 is to fly. I have a friend who has one, but I haven't flown it from the left seat, and not much from the right seat. But, I sure do like my -7A for any mission, except aerial photography. I can't imagine a better 2 place airplane. Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/25/2006 10:02:21 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ddcuster@wmv-co.us writes: --> RV-List message posted by: "Doc Custer" <ddcuster@wmv-co.us> The 7 is a heavy plane -- stressed for aerobatics. The 9 is much lighter and has a modern wing while the 7 uses an old NACA airfoil. The 9 is thus more efficient: Less weight, better wing. Still -- it all depends on the mission. Ask the guys at Vans who fly long distance cross country which plane they would rather take. I did. The agreement was unanimous -- take the 9 for cross country. If you want to be upside down go with the 7. Simple. Just look at Van's design goals with both the 7 and the 9. Van's designs are very successful based on which mission is going to be flown. If you get a plane designed for one mission and fly it on different missions regularly you are not going to be as satisfied as the guy who flies the plane on the mission for which it was designed. Doc ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 25, 2006
Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
In a message dated 8/24/2006 8:47:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, khorton01(at)rogers.com writes: I would think that the lower weight would give an advantage to the O-320 powered ship. The speed change for a 10 to 20 lb weight reduction is negligible, as the vast majority of the drag at cruise speeds is profile drag, and it does not vary with weight. The induced drag, which does vary with the square of weight, is less than 15% of the total drag at typical cruise speeds (data from the CAFE Foundation APR on the RV-6A) . The CAFE foundation data suggests that it would take about a 100 lb weight reduction to realize a 1 mph speed increase, assuming everything else was equal. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada Kevin, The weight difference between a plane with a 200 HP angle valve IO-360 with a constant speed prop and a O-320 with a wood prop would probably be close to 100 pounds. I'm glad to hear that even 100 pounds is not too significant. I would still like to experience a really light RV-7A. Too bad it is soooooo much work to change engines! Dan Hopper RV-7A 200 HP ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Matching Paint
Date: Aug 25, 2006
Not much of a problem if you're close to town. DuPont and PPG both make a device, I think DuPont's is called Chroma-Vision that you carry out to the car and it analyzes the paint color and then creates a formula to match that color. Call any place that specializes in automotive paint finishes and you should be fine. Look for a DuPont or PPG distributor. They will have to go to the plane to match it up unless you can bring a panel or something similar to their place of business. Let me know if you need more info. They will probably expect that you buy the paint from them ;-) Bill S 7a wiring/engine _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duane Bentley Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 5:24 PM Subject: RV-List: Matching Paint I had my RV6 painted by James Barnhart at Air Colors, Urbana, OH in November 2004. He did a pretty good job, but unfortunately went out of business and disappeared with no forwarding address in October 2005. At the time he painted my plane, I had picked out the colors I wanted from the Sherwin Williams chart, and gave him those numbers. He asked if he could use PPG, could match my colors, and he preferred their system. I said okay, but unfortunately he never provided the PPG paint spec numbers back to me in either the contract or the final invoice. I never thought about it at the time. I recently asked a buddy who has painted autos professionally for years if he could touch up a few scratches now on my plane. He contacted PPG who said they didn't have a direct cross reference to the SW colors, apparently having a larger number of color tints that SW. They remembered James and the "great records" he kept and couldn't understand why I didn't have the specs for my plane. So here I am. If anyone knows where James Barnhart has surfaced in the country and can get a message to him, I'm not trying to hold him to the warranty, but I really need the paint specs for my plane. If anyone else has an idea on how to match it without buying eight different gallons of paint, I would appreciate it. Duane Bentley RV6 N515DB 190 hrs and flying well West Chester, OH ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Matching Paint
Date: Aug 25, 2006
This is a link for a little more information on the color match system. Should be able to match the PPG with DuPont if you can't find a PPG distributor. http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/color/daf/doc/chvis n_prod_guide.html Bill S _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 7:46 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Matching Paint Not much of a problem if you're close to town. DuPont and PPG both make a device, I think DuPont's is called Chroma-Vision that you carry out to the car and it analyzes the paint color and then creates a formula to match that color. Call any place that specializes in automotive paint finishes and you should be fine. Look for a DuPont or PPG distributor. They will have to go to the plane to match it up unless you can bring a panel or something similar to their place of business. Let me know if you need more info. They will probably expect that you buy the paint from them ;-) Bill S 7a wiring/engine _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duane Bentley Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 5:24 PM Subject: RV-List: Matching Paint I had my RV6 painted by James Barnhart at Air Colors, Urbana, OH in November 2004. He did a pretty good job, but unfortunately went out of business and disappeared with no forwarding address in October 2005. At the time he painted my plane, I had picked out the colors I wanted from the Sherwin Williams chart, and gave him those numbers. He asked if he could use PPG, could match my colors, and he preferred their system. I said okay, but unfortunately he never provided the PPG paint spec numbers back to me in either the contract or the final invoice. I never thought about it at the time. I recently asked a buddy who has painted autos professionally for years if he could touch up a few scratches now on my plane. He contacted PPG who said they didn't have a direct cross reference to the SW colors, apparently having a larger number of color tints that SW. They remembered James and the "great records" he kept and couldn't understand why I didn't have the specs for my plane. So here I am. If anyone knows where James Barnhart has surfaced in the country and can get a message to him, I'm not trying to hold him to the warranty, but I really need the paint specs for my plane. If anyone else has an idea on how to match it without buying eight different gallons of paint, I would appreciate it. Duane Bentley RV6 N515DB 190 hrs and flying well West Chester, OH com/Navigator?RV-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pam & Tom Brink" <purchhome@gen-aircraft-hardware.com>
Subject: Adel clamps on engine bolts
Date: Aug 25, 2006
The MS21333 clamps can be had in with several sizes of mounting holes. see http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/ms21333.pdf for reference. Tom Brink RV6 s/n 25416 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2006
From: John Goldsmith <jgold4747(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fit of front edge of rear tip-up canopy window to front window
I finally got around to positioning the rear (tip-up) canopy window of my RV-7A (skin clecoed around it in the back), and I find that, with the outer (lowest) edges just touching the front canopy window, there is about a 1/4" gap between the window pieces at the top center. I had not expected to have to trim the front edge of the rear canopy piece after making the big cut, anticipating that it would follow the front canopy piece evenly along the roll bar. Have others found the need to trim the front edge of the rear piece, taking off about 1/4" at the edges, and very little in the center? John Goldsmith RV-7A quickbuild finish kit --------------------------------- Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fit of front edge of rear tip-up canopy window to front window
Date: Aug 25, 2006
Yes, the rear window typically requires trimming as you mentioned.1/4" sounds about right. Just do a little at a time. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Goldsmith Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 9:49 PM Subject: RV-List: Fit of front edge of rear tip-up canopy window to front window I finally got around to positioning the rear (tip-up) canopy window of my RV-7A (skin clecoed around it in the back), and I find that, with the outer (lowest) edges just touching the front canopy window, there is about a 1/4" gap between the window pieces at the top center. I had not expected to have to trim the front edge of the rear canopy piece after making the "big cut," anticipating that it would follow the front canopy piece evenly along the roll bar. Have others found the need to trim the front edge of the rear piece, taking off about 1/4" at the edges, and very little in the center? John Goldsmith RV-7A quickbuild finish kit Get on board. You're <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=40791/*http:/advision.webevents.yahoo.com/ma ilbeta> invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Unusual ring gear tooth wear
Date: Aug 26, 2006
Thanks Bob, I appreciate the info. -- Harry Crosby RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> This is a problem I've seen with Sky-Tec starters on at least three occasions, not enough ring gear engagement. If you call them of course it won't be their fault. Once you can't get the thing to crank over the first compression, then they'll blame the engine manufacturer, then your wiring, your battery, your solenoid, your mother, etc. I used to poo-poo B&C's because of the cost until I did some horsetrading and got one on a trade. Now without question I believe that it is the best starter, with the new Sky-Tec high-torque starter in close second. They're both about the same price ($550). The B&C is geared slightly taller which helps it overcome the first compression stroke with ease, just a little bit better (but slower) than the high-torque inline starter from Sky-Tec, but not by much. A friend and I did testing on his F1 of three different starters (Sky-Tec Flyweight, my B&C, and the Sky-Tec high torque model). The Flyweight's planetary gearing (which is plastic!) can on ly be rebuilt by them; as far as cranking performance goes it was in dead-last place. One big advantage of the B&C is that it is rebuildable by your local starter shop. I rebuilt the used one I got to like new condition for $38.00. BTW the better two of the three starters fully engaged the ring gear. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On 8/25/06, HCRV6(at)comcast.net < HCRV6(at)comcast.net> wrote: Engine Gurus, I have about 255 hours total time on my factory new O-360A1A and have noticed that the wear pattern on the flywheel ring gear looks as if the starter gear is engaging only about the top 1/16 inch or less of each ring gear tooth. Also it looks as if the teeth on the ring gear are wearing slightly rounded, with slightly more wear on the aft part. The engine was delivered from Van's with a Sky-Tec starter that otherwise seems to work great and really spins up the engine on startup.


August 10, 2006 - August 26, 2006

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