RV-Archive.digest.vol-si
October 15, 2006 - November 02, 2006
Ask yourself, should you have to accept restrictions on your legitimate
activities because of someone else's irrational fear? I'm with George
(Washington that is), it's ludicrous. sad, ludicrous and very Orwellian.
The Declaration of Independence claimed, among other things, that people
should be allowed to go about their lives unencumbered with restrictions
imposed by a non-representative government - can you say FAA? It also says:
"That whenever any Form of Government becomes destructive of these ends, it
is the Right of the People to alter or to abolish it, and to institute new
Government, laying its foundation on such principles and organizing its
powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to effect their
Safety and Happiness."
Why do we allow the FAA - or any other non-elected government institution -
to dole out "privileges" that our forefathers considered inalienable rights?
Because we, as a society (no offense to your Mr Jensen) are afraid. afraid
of our birthright. Afraid of "unrestricted freedom." The largesse of our
hard-working forefathers has allowed us to become ignorant, lazy and
apathetic - much like sheep protected from the wolves by the shepherd.
A free, law-abiding society can never be truly ruled by any government.
Those in power know this. A government's only power over its people is the
power to punish. Bureaucrats know this instinctively. They know the only way
they'll have the power to punish is to make laws that are punishable. So
maybe not on purpose, maybe not by design, but over a slow evolution, our
government continues to make laws, regulations, rules and restrictions and
creates a nation of punishable criminals. Can we remember them all?
Remember, ignorance of the law isn't a proper defense. Can you say IRS? And
what about the laws we disregard on a regular basis? How many of you exceed
the speed limit? Use twice the recommended fertilizer on the lawn? Take
twice the dosage of Motrin when you have a particularly bad headache?
How much do we compromise before we say enough?
Please accept this as a criticism of society as a whole and not a tirade
against you personally Chuck. Your comment sparked a deeply held personal
belief that we as a nation have taken a wrong turn somewhere along the line.
If we're to get back on track we'll have to act soon because I fear the
point of no return is fast approaching.
Mark Sletten
Legacy FG N828LM
http://www.legacyfgbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cirrus & journalists |
This new political group is great, just to bad it is listed as an RV-List.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: catto 3-blade prop |
In a message dated 10/13/2006 10:40:54 PM Central Daylight Time, rv6(at)cox.net
writes:
I have a 3-blade Catto on my 0-320(150hp) RV6.
>>>
Howdy Jerry- what did he pitch your prop at? He labelled mine a 66x66 and it
will turn 2850 down low (2500')- I usually see about 2200 static and on
initial climb-out.
Mark E3D 150hp -6A, 360 hours
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cirruss Accident question |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Mark Sletten wrote:
Chuck Jensen wrote:
Finally, lest we confuse rights with privilege, we should remind
ourselves that flying is a privilege granted by the majority since
it
has been determined, when controlled by rules and regulations, to
be of
minimal harm to the commonweal. We live in a great country
because (for
the most part) most activities are permitted unless they are shown
to be
harmful and detrimental to individuals, groups or society as a
whole.
In many other countries, the starting point is everything is
prohibited
unless by birth or gun, one gains the power to do it.
And yet in your own words Chuck, you describe a nation, ours, where
activities are "permitted." The idea that any activity must pass public
review before it's "allowed" is the first step down the slippery slope
we as a nation find ourselves - amid the bureaucracy that rules all our
lives today.
In fact, it is not the "public" that grants us the privilege to fly; it
is the Federal Aviation Administration - whose members aren't elected by
anyone. Indeed, as we all know, the vast "majority" you say granted our
flying privileges hasn't a clue what or how the FAA goes about its
bureaucratic duties.
The FAA is not 'elected' but they are appointed by elected officials
which is consistent with virtually every branch of government and must
be so. There are millions of federal government employees, yet a few
hundred, at most, are actually elected. These elected individuals are
to speak and act on our behalf, so the FAA is not directly elected, but
they draw their power and authority from the elected officials that are
elected, so the FAA isn't illegitimate any more than the local medical
examiner, high school principal, head of your state highway commission
or the head of Homeland Security.
I don't mean to beat up on you Chuck - this is a societal problem (in my
opinion) that's been developing for decades. The "public" has become so
dependant on its - our - government to tell it when, how, why, where and
who may or may not do what, it's forgotten - in fact fears - what it
means to act and think freely and independently.
People may be blinded by beliefs and strongly held beliefs that are not
always based on fact, but I don't know that fear is causing people to
speak out. I've not noticed any reticence on this forum. You and I can
speak unkindly of the FAA without fear of a knock on the door (....for
the most part).
I don't believe myself either a purist or realist - I try not to be any
"ist" if possible. But no one with open eyes can fail to see we, as a
nation, HAVE given up rights in the name of security. We HAVE
compromised to feel safer. I ask, safer from what?
The first time we agreed a nameless, baseless, ignorant, seemingly
inarguable fear, a bogeyman, is sound basis to restrict ANY activity, we
gave up the ideal - the very bedrock at the foundation of our nation -
of individual liberty; liberty and freedom to pursue happiness without
undue hassle by people, organizations, agencies and governments over
whom we have no control.
The terrorists who've been attacking this nation for years understand
something very clearly we as a free, comfortable and relatively safe
society seem to have forgotten; once released from the depths of
ignorant imagination, irrational fear is a powerful motivator. One feels
motivated to do... something... anything... the classic fight or flight
response. Our military efforts in the Middle East notwithstanding, I say
we here at home have chosen to run away and hide. Rather than stand up,
face our fears and acknowledge we can't protect everyone all the time,
we are trying to do just that.
Without commenting on those making spurious claims of having 'made us
safe since 9/11', I believe the real reason for our safety is that very
openness and freedom of our society that makes penetrating and operating
in our society very difficult for those with bad intentions. After
9/11, I was concerned that our wide ranging freedoms would enable
terrorist to treat us like setting pigeons. Instead, our tolerance,
inclusiveness and receptiveness to new ideas and thoughts have left few
small, isolated islands from which ideologs can operate without
discovery. I can safely assure you that Homeland Security and the
billions of dollars frittered away in its name is not what has made us
safe....WE are what has made us safe. Yes, someday attach(s) will
occur, but they will be news because of their infrequency.
It's a hard habit to break... and one our government has engaged in for
a long time. Helmet laws... seatbelt laws... any law you can think of
that protects you from yourself is indicative of the problem. To argue
against any "safety" law seems crazy and "out there," but I would love
to've been there had someone told General George Washington, one of the
best horsemen of his time, he had to wear a helmet while galloping over
the hills and thru the dales on one of his beloved fox hunts. What's
changed between now and then? Can we not allow people to choose their
own level of risk?
Ah, yes, the helmet laws. The arguments are rampant about and
individuals right to go ride a motorcycle, an estimably dangerous
activity, without infringement on ones freedom by having to wear a
helmet. The second round of the argument is 'if I want to scramble my
brains is an accident, its my business." The problem is, it's not just
YOUR business. When inarguable statistics show that the number and
severity of head injuries escalate when helmets are not worn, then it
becomes societies problem. The same statistics show that a relatively
high fraction of motorcyclists that don't wear helmets also don't carry
insurance, so when one's brains are scrambled, it is left to society to
pick up the tab for hundreds of thousands, even millions of dollars of
medical costs for vegetable care. At that point, society/government
gains a right, even obligation to say, 'if you are going to ride a
motorcycle, known to be dangerous and cause serious head injuries, then
you must wear a helmet that will mitigate, if not prevent such
injuries.' And, even if the cyclist does have insurance to cover his
medical costs, by not wearing a helmet (a minor infringement) and
increasing the cost of his post-accident care, then he causes my
premiums to increase. So, when an individual asserts a right to not
have to wear a helmet, I would like to know what he is going to do to
protect my rights to not have to pay for his extra medical costs? I'm
not interested in banning motorcycles, so the compromise I'm willing to
make is, if you'll wear a helmet required by law, I'll help pay for
care. In the interest of full disclosure, I've owned three motorcycles.
I enjoyed the heck out of them but with the wisdom gained with age, came
to the conclusion that the pleasure gain did not compensate for the
risk--in other words, I became a chicken.
I don't argue there should be no restriction on activities that could
result in harm to another; automobiles, tractor-trailers, boats,
airplanes - they all have the potential to harm others not involved in
their operation. But I say before we started writing laws we already had
a system in place to deal with those situations where an operator might
have acted negligently... the courts. The courts forced each and every
one of us to exercise the RESPONSIBILITY inherent in our FREEDOM to
restrict our own activities.
Our focus as a nation has changed though. Instead of allowing the
pursuit of happiness and using the courts to punish those who act
stupidly and negligently, we seek to restrict "dangerous" activity
BEFORE any one is injured in the name of SAFETY. And this despite the
fact that aircraft, boats, automobiles and even the three-wheeled ATVs
now banned in our country can all be operated with relatively low risk
to others - even if the risk is high the operator - so long as the
operator understands his or her responsibility. Instead, we now count on
the government to protect us. When something goes wrong, it's someone
else's fault - and now the courts are relegated to determining if the
manufacturer of a product or device successfully deduced, in advance,
every possible asinine and irresponsible way its product might be used.
It's called Tort. Why do we do this?
In most instances, restricting activities before one is injured is based
on an established pattern that those who have have already engaged in
that activity were often injured. This is the well accepted safety
measure of learning from other's mistakes so we don't have to repeat
them. This is a prized behavior in the individual (and why we take
extensive pilot training and read articles like "Never Again")--there is
no reason that government shouldn't exhibit the same behavior wherein
they discourage people from engaging in unnecessarily dangerous
behavior.
Ask yourself, should you have to accept restrictions on your legitimate
activities because of someone else's irrational fear? I'm with George
(Washington that is), it's ludicrous... sad, ludicrous and very
Orwellian.
The Declaration of Independence claimed, among other things, that people
should be allowed to go about their lives unencumbered with restrictions
imposed by a non-representative government - can you say FAA? It also
says: "That whenever any Form of Government becomes destructive of these
ends, it is the Right of the People to alter or to abolish it, and to
institute new Government, laying its foundation on such principles and
organizing its powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to
effect their Safety and Happiness."
Yes, but as discussed, FAA is representative government, even if they
don't always represent us in the fashion we think reasonable. As far as
altering or abolishing government when it becomes destructive, that
system is already in place....it's called elections. Just because
elections don't always come out the way that we think they should,
doesn't mean that they don't work. My election finger is already itchy
and the 7th is still three weeks away!
Why do we allow the FAA - or any other non-elected government
institution - to dole out "privileges" that our forefathers considered
inalienable rights? Because we, as a society (no offense to your Mr
Jensen) are afraid... afraid of our birthright. Afraid of "unrestricted
freedom." The largesse of our hard-working forefathers has allowed us to
become ignorant, lazy and apathetic - much like sheep protected from the
wolves by the shepherd.
Mark, you can be sure that I'm not offended. There are probably times I
should be, but I'm not. The exchange of ideas and perspectives are
never offending. Nor am I afraid of 'unrestricted freedom', though I
have great reservations about other exercising their birthright,
especially if owning a car, driving it, operating it in a wild manner
and driving 85 mph through a school zone (all restricted by government)
is considered one of those birthrights. Where does birthright and
unrestricted freedom end and common sense and responsibility
begin...that is what each individual and our government has to
continually sort out. It's never easy and never ending, but claims of
unlimited, unrestricted rights are unworkable--very attractive to the
ear, but somewhat less attractive if put to practice.
A free, law-abiding society can never be truly ruled by any government.
Those in power know this. A government's only power over its people is
the power to punish. Bureaucrats know this instinctively. They know the
only way they'll have the power to punish is to make laws that are
punishable. So maybe not on purpose, maybe not by design, but over a
slow evolution, our government continues to make laws, regulations,
rules and restrictions and creates a nation of punishable criminals. Can
we remember them all? Remember, ignorance of the law isn't a proper
defense. Can you say IRS? And what about the laws we disregard on a
regular basis? How many of you exceed the speed limit? Use twice the
recommended fertilizer on the lawn? Take twice the dosage of Motrin when
you have a particularly bad headache?
Your reference to a 'law abiding society can never be ruled by
government' is an interesting observation, particularly so when it was
the Government that made the laws that are abided by in the first place.
Rhetorically, how can we be free is we are abiding by the laws made by
government? Are not those laws abridging our freedom? In short, the
answer is yes, but it is a necessary compromise for an ordered, safe,
free society. Government just happens to be the arbiter in the middle
of all of our individual rights.
How much do we compromise before we say enough?
We compromise by allowing an ineffectual ADIZ around DC, but we say
'enough' when they try to make it permanent, knowing that future change
of something that is temporary is always possible, but once
permanent....well it's permanent, so that's when we through down the
gauntlet.
Please accept this as a criticism of society as a whole and not a tirade
against you personally Chuck. Your comment sparked a deeply held
personal belief that we as a nation have taken a wrong turn somewhere
along the line. If we're to get back on track we'll have to act soon
because I fear the point of no return is fast approaching.
Mark, no personal criticism perceived. I share your concern that some
wrong turns have been taken and I intend to grab the steering wheel on
the 7th, but the greatness of this country is we are constantly turning.
Despite continual predictions of our imminent 'going to hell in a hand
basket', we still seem to be doing pretty well, at least in comparisons
to most others.
Despite the viewpoints I've espoused, please know that I am NOT a fan of
government..big, small or otherwise. I simply view it as a necessary
evil that requires constant monitoring to see that it does it's job
properly. As a recent comedic movie trailer states, 'politicians are
like baby diapers...they both need to be changed regularly...and for the
same reason.'
Chuck Jensen
Mark Sletten
Legacy FG N828LM
http://www.legacyfgbuilder.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: catto 3-blade prop |
I bought this Catto prop from another RV'er who had it on a 160hp 0-320
and it is pitched at 64x70.
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: catto 3-blade prop
In a message dated 10/13/2006 10:40:54 PM Central Daylight Time,
rv6(at)cox.net writes:
I have a 3-blade Catto on my 0-320(150hp) RV6.
>>>
Howdy Jerry- what did he pitch your prop at? He labelled mine a 66x66
and it will turn 2850 down low (2500')- I usually see about 2200 static
and on initial climb-out.
Mark E3D 150hp -6A, 360 hours
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
I'm looking for a video camera to mount on my airplane. This one is for sale
at a local motorcycle shop, and looks like a good choice.
http://www.twenty20camera.com/motorcyclecamera.php
I'm interested in hearing from anyone with experience doing this sort of thing.
Is this a good choice of camera, or are there better options? This camera has
a resolution of 400 lines, which sounds reasonable for NTSC video, but that's
purely a layman's opinion. Am I going to get "TV quality" video from this
camera?
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve <steve(at)theagile.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cirrus & journalists |
Jerry Springer wrote:
>This new political group is great, just to bad it is listed as an RV-List.
>
>Jerry
I was just thinking about joining a politico list -- maybe they'd
actually have something about RV there. :-)
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jrlewismail-rv(at)yahoo.com |
I am selling my RV-7 due to a divorce settlement.=0AThe specifics are liste
d below.=0AI will gladly answer any questions anyone may have.=0AI bought t
his kit new in Dec 2002 and have almost completed it.=0AThis is a Quick Bui
ld RV-7 taildragger with a slider canopy.=0AIt includes ALL Van's kits part
s (emp,fuse, wing, and finish) as well as much more.=0AThe cowl is for a st
andard 150-180 hp Lyc.=0AI do not have an engine, accessories, or prop.=0A
Info on my plane:=0ARV-7 w/ slider = QB complete with all kit parts=0ABu
ild Status: Ready for engine/prop/ panel / canopy install=0AEquipment / Av
ionics: (Will permit IFR flight with 3 times redundancy!)=0A- Fuel tank fl
op tubes for inverted flight=0A- Strobes=0A- 2 axis Auto-Pilot W/ Vertical
Speed Hold & GPS Track (servos installed)=0A- Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS
=0A- RMI Engine Monitor=0A- RMI Encoder w/independent compass system=0A- Dy
non EFIS=0A- Dual Pitot static systems=0A- Landing light=0A- Taxi Light=0A-
Electric Aileron and Elevator Trim=0A- Custom stick grips enable trim, aut
o-pilot, and nav control=0A- Electric Flaps=0A- EMI Fuel Monitor System=0A-
Wingtip comm./nav antennas=0A- Aviation grade wiring installed=0AI am a pr
ofessional pilot (USAF) and was building this for myself.=0AThe build quali
ty is EXCELLENT.=0AOver $60K invested (not including any build time).=0AI w
ill sell for $45K cash (no trades or notes).=0AInterested persons may conta
ct me directly at the following email:=0A jrlewismail-rv(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: catto 3-blade prop |
Curt:
I think you have the right prop. Craig recommends the 3-blade for
the O-360 because it has better harmonics than the 2-blade - on the
O-360. On the O-320 the 2-blade's harmonics are just fine. If I had an
O-320, I'd have gotten the 2-blade also. (It's significantly cheaper!)
Curt Reimer wrote:
> I admit the 3 blade looks very cool but I went with the Catto 2 blade
> for (theoretically at least) slightly higher cruise efficiency. I have
> been running the Catto on my O-320 powered RV-6 for about 12 hours now
> and I'm very pleased with the performance. I asked for mine to be
> pitched for 2700 RPM at 8000', 75% power and it is bang-on. Solo climb
> is 1500+ fpm, which is better than any of the Sensenich numbers I have
> seen.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | RV's: Difficult to Fly? Nonsense !! |
Forget about all this stuff. Just go fly an RV. If I can
do it most others can as well with reasonable time in
type.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Video Camera |
| From: | David Karlsberg <claypride(at)hotmail.com> |
NTSC has 480 lines of resolution. Most of the cameras these days are
recording higher than that. Also... Those little CMOS sensors aren't the
best. Won't be broadcast quality but may work for your needs. Also don't
forget you will need to buy another video camera (or deck) to use as a
recorder.
On 10/15/06 12:08 PM, "Tedd McHenry" wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a video camera to mount on my airplane. This one is for sale
> at a local motorcycle shop, and looks like a good choice.
>
> http://www.twenty20camera.com/motorcyclecamera.php
>
> I'm interested in hearing from anyone with experience doing this sort of
> thing.
> Is this a good choice of camera, or are there better options? This camera has
> a resolution of 400 lines, which sounds reasonable for NTSC video, but that's
> purely a layman's opinion. Am I going to get "TV quality" video from this
> camera?
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC, Canada
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <3edcft6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Video Camera |
Tedd McHenry wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a video camera to mount on my airplane. This one is for sale
> at a local motorcycle shop, and looks like a good choice.
>
> http://www.twenty20camera.com/motorcyclecamera.php
>
> I'm interested in hearing from anyone with experience doing this sort of thing.
> Is this a good choice of camera, or are there better options? This camera has
> a resolution of 400 lines, which sounds reasonable for NTSC video, but that's
> purely a layman's opinion. Am I going to get "TV quality" video from this
> camera?
>
Seems like a bit of a rip off to me. It is basically what the security
camera people call a bullet camera. They also include a mount, a
voltage regulator, and a microphone. You can get an line level output
mic for only $10. Since you already have an intercom in the plane, I
don't know why you would want one. You can make a voltage regulator for
a few dollars. Last but not least you can get just as good or better
camera for around $150 or less. If you don't want to bother with a
regulator for the plane, just use an 8 cell battery pack. AA NiMh or
NiCd will both last plenty long. The cameras normally come with a
mount, but it probably wouldn't hold up under the vibration in the
plane, it would be best to make your own.
You can get these cameras in a lot of places just be sure you are
getting a good one. As that site you linked to points out there are
some pretty crappy cameras out there. I recommend looking for one with
the Sony EX view electronics in it. They have 480 lines Color or 600
for the B&W versions. Just google for bullet camera and Sony EX view.
Should find a lot. You can get them in a wide range of lens sizes too.
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
"Protect your digital freedom and privacy, eliminate DRM,
learn more at http://www.defectivebydesign.org/what_is_drm"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Trim control module flap switch |
I purchased a trim control module from F1 Rocket Boy because I'd heard that
electric elevator trim on RVs was too sensitive in the pattern and not
sensitive enough in cruise (or is it vice versa). In any case, if you
install a switch that is actuated by the flaps, then the unit will
automatically change the trim motor speed to match aircraft configuration.
Since I have manual flaps on my RV-6 this may fall on deaf ears (seems like
everyone has electric flaps in the RV world) but I'll ask it anyway.
If you have one of these trim rate changers and you utilized some sort of
switch that is actuated by the lowering the flaps how did you set it up?
Did you set it up to activate the switch when the flaps were fully extended
or only partially? How and where did you mount the switch? Any info would
be appreciated. Those that installed and AOA system from Advanced Flight
Systems (formerly Proprietary Software Systems) have to do the same thing
with their flap actuated switch so you folks with this AOA may also be able
to help me here (same criteria apply for mounting the AOA flap actuated
switch as the trim changer). Any photos and guidance on the install would
be much appreciated. Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Down to that last 1% of the 90% to-go and very excited about 1st flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trim control module flap switch |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Dean
I am using the AOA, as well as Aircraft Extra's relay deck to accomplish
what you are talking about. Aircraft Extra's has the diagram for
installing this and it is downloadable from their website, hope this
helps.
http://www.aircraftextras.com/FPS-Plus-Mech.htm
Dan Lloyd
RV10E
40289 (N289DT)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DEAN
PSIROPOULOS
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 1:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Trim control module flap switch
I purchased a trim control module from F1 Rocket Boy because I'd heard
that
electric elevator trim on RVs was too sensitive in the pattern and not
sensitive enough in cruise (or is it vice versa). In any case, if you
install a switch that is actuated by the flaps, then the unit will
automatically change the trim motor speed to match aircraft
configuration.
Since I have manual flaps on my RV-6 this may fall on deaf ears (seems
like
everyone has electric flaps in the RV world) but I'll ask it anyway.
If you have one of these trim rate changers and you utilized some sort
of
switch that is actuated by the lowering the flaps how did you set it up?
Did you set it up to activate the switch when the flaps were fully
extended
or only partially? How and where did you mount the switch? Any info
would
be appreciated. Those that installed and AOA system from Advanced
Flight
Systems (formerly Proprietary Software Systems) have to do the same
thing
with their flap actuated switch so you folks with this AOA may also be
able
to help me here (same criteria apply for mounting the AOA flap actuated
switch as the trim changer). Any photos and guidance on the install
would
be much appreciated. Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Down to that last 1% of the 90% to-go and very excited about 1st flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Lukasczyk" <Lukasczyk(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Video Camera |
Hi Tedd
I did a few tests with those tiny cameras and was always a little disappointed
with the picture-quality they provided. They are quite easy to mount anywhere
on the plane, though.
If you want TV-quality, there is another option. By a small video-camera and build
a mount. I tested my mount at 160 knots and the rudder input to compensate
that additional drag is barely noticeable.
There is a picture:
http://www.rv-4.de/gallerie/Detail1_img/KHF.jpg
Another picture of my cockpit mount:
http://www.rv-4.de/gallerie/Detail1_img/KHC_seite.jpg
Several test-videos
http://www.rv-4.de/videos.htm
Thomas, rv-4, germany
--
GMX DSL-Flatrate 0,- Euro* - berall, wo DSL verfgbar ist!
NEU: Jetzt bis zu 16.000 kBit/s! http://www.gmx.net/de/go/dsl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV's: Difficult to Fly? Nonsense !! |
In a message dated 10/15/2006 10:36:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net writes:
I'm thinking of organizing a national RV Builder's Motivation Day, and mate
builders with willing "former" builders (aka: RV pilots). Think that's
something folks would support?
Bob
-----------------------
SURE!
I am both and it would be interesting, fun and educational.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cirruss Accident question |
In a message dated 10/15/2006 5:28:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
terry(at)tcwatson.com writes:
Certainly we can see it in certified vs. experimental aviation, but it
applies across the board =93 food, housing, drugs, and all the other a
reas where a
regulated economy freezes innovation at the last (hopefully) good idea befor
e the
bureaucracy decided to save us from ourselves. The flaw in their argument
that is fatal to the great innovations that we will never see is that we are
as
reckless, ignorant, or just plain stupid as they are, or more generously, as
they think we are.
But be aware that there are some on this list that some on this list that
think plastic airplanes ought to be outlawed. (Just kidding
I hope!)
Terry
=================
Good points Terry:
It was just PLAIN OLD STUPIDITY. And one thing that we all should realize i
s
"You cannot legislate common sense". If we could we would get rid of 95% of
the politicians throughout our government. Yet, our common sense does not
prevail ... We keep electing these big mouth idiots like Chuck Shulmer and
Weiner. SOooo who are the stupid ones now?
As for your last statement ... We are NOT too far away; In, NJ we have
Lautenberg he has been anti aviation ALL of his two lives in the Senate. An
d incase
you haven't been keeping up with politics and the EPA, by 2010 they (Senate
&
EPA) have deemed (passed a law) ALL GAS will have ethanol ... ALL meaning
AvGas also. How do you think that is going to affect the GA industry?
As a side note - Take a look at the number of APs, NJ use to have and how
many now, only 25 to 30 years later, we lost about 65% ... Now look at how m
any
pop-up sunburn communities NJ has now. And where were they built? We use t
o
be know as "The Garden State". Now we are "Urban Sprawl", Highest Taxes in
the
Nation, Highest Car Insurance in the Nation and probably the Highest
Corruption in the Nation.
Sorry to get political, but politicians have learned how to fight ... Attack
the small guy who as they see it ... Has money to burn.
We do not have the size, power or money as say the NRA. We are the small
unorganized guy.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <3edcft6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Video Camera |
Thomas Lukasczyk wrote:
> Hi Tedd
>
> I did a few tests with those tiny cameras and was always a little disappointed
with the picture-quality they provided.
You need to be careful which one you buy. Some are much better than
others, most are complete junk. Look for one that has the high
resolution, 480 lines, like the Sony EX View.
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
"Protect your digital freedom and privacy, eliminate DRM,
learn more at http://www.defectivebydesign.org/what_is_drm"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Cirruss Accident question |
You guys should have been recycled back to beer cans a long time ago. I
know
of no plastic airplanes. (yes.. I'm kidding also)
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Cirruss Accident question
In a message dated 10/15/2006 5:28:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
terry(at)tcwatson.com writes:
Certainly we can see it in certified vs. experimental aviation, but it
applies across the board - food, housing, drugs, and all the other areas
where a regulated economy freezes innovation at the last (hopefully)
good
idea before the bureaucracy decided to save us from ourselves. The flaw
in
their argument that is fatal to the great innovations that we will never
see
is that we are as reckless, ignorant, or just plain stupid as they are,
or
more generously, as they think we are.
But be aware that there are some on this list that some on this list
that
think plastic airplanes ought to be outlawed. (Just kidding..I hope!)
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trim control module flap switch |
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
>
> I purchased a trim control module from F1 Rocket Boy because I'd heard that
> electric elevator trim on RVs was too sensitive in the pattern and not
> sensitive enough in cruise (or is it vice versa). In any case, if you
> install a switch that is actuated by the flaps, then the unit will
> automatically change the trim motor speed to match aircraft configuration.
> Since I have manual flaps on my RV-6 this may fall on deaf ears (seems like
> everyone has electric flaps in the RV world) but I'll ask it anyway.
>
> If you have one of these trim rate changers and you utilized some sort of
> switch that is actuated by the lowering the flaps how did you set it up?
> Did you set it up to activate the switch when the flaps were fully extended
> or only partially? How and where did you mount the switch? Any info would
> be appreciated. Those that installed and AOA system from Advanced Flight
> Systems (formerly Proprietary Software Systems) have to do the same thing
> with their flap actuated switch so you folks with this AOA may also be able
> to help me here (same criteria apply for mounting the AOA flap actuated
> switch as the trim changer). Any photos and guidance on the install would
> be much appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Down to that last 1% of the 90% to-go and very excited about 1st flight.
Don't you need just a simple microswitch to detect the flap deployment?
Attached photo is not mine so apologies to rightful owner, I pulled it
from my good ideas collection folder.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trim control module flap switch |
Dean,
I know this doesn't answer your original question, but here is my take on it.
It is true that the trim motor runs a little too fast for cruise flight, but
I quit trimming for landings. I just apply the (not too great) stick back
pressure it takes to do the landing and that way it stays trimmed for takeoff
and cruise. At this time I don't have a trim indicator, so this works fine
for me. KISS.
BTW, I bought the Trim Control Module but haven't installed it yet. I
thought I was buying a module that would hold altitude in cruise, so I haven't
decided what to do with the module.
Just my $.02.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 10/16/2006 5:15:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
>
> I purchased a trim control module from F1 Rocket Boy because I'd heard that
> electric elevator trim on RVs was too sensitive in the pattern and not
> sensitive enough in cruise (or is it vice versa). In any case, if you
> install a switch that is actuated by the flaps, then the unit will
> automatically change the trim motor speed to match aircraft configuration.
> Since I have manual flaps on my RV-6 this may fall on deaf ears (seems like
> everyone has electric flaps in the RV world) but I'll ask it anyway.
>
> If you have one of these trim rate changers and you utilized some sort of
> switch that is actuated by the lowering the flaps how did you set it up?
> Did you set it up to activate the switch when the flaps were fully extended
> or only partially? How and where did you mount the switch? Any info
would
> be appreciated. Those that installed and AOA system from Advanced Flight
> Systems (formerly Proprietary Software Systems) have to do the same thing
> with their flap actuated switch so you folks with this AOA may also be able
> to help me here (same criteria apply for mounting the AOA flap actuated
> switch as the trim changer). Any photos and guidance on the install would
> be much appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Down to that last 1% of the 90% to-go and very excited about 1st flight.
Don't you need just a simple microswitch to detect the flap deployment?
Attached photo is not mine so apologies to rightful owner, I pulled it
from my good ideas collection folder.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jrlewismail-rv(at)yahoo.com |
| Subject: | Question on posting |
Someone please tell me the trick to posting a message that does not end up
scrambled with extra characters. I have posted several notes and each gets
trashed. What am I doing wrong?=0A=0AR,=0A=0AJRL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | 1st time engine start |
I'm hoping to start my XP O-360 engine for the first time Wedensday. I
remember some discussion a while back about ground runs. This is a new
engine and I know that when I fly it I should fly it fast til the rings
seat and oil consumption stabilizes. I think someone said that during
the inital ground runs that you should keep the cylinder temps below a
certain temp untill it flys. So what is that temp?
--
------
Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck <chuck515tigger(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question on posting |
JRL,
Well first of all, it has to be about primers, nosewheels/tailwheels, or completely
OFF -SUBJECT and absolutely unrelated to building RV's or the list just
can NOT recognize it as a normal thread. :-)
Chuck
jrlewismail-rv(at)yahoo.com wrote:
Someone please tell me the trick to posting a message that does not end
up scrambled with extra characters. I have posted several notes and each gets
trashed. What am I doing wrong?
R,
JRL
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glaesers" <glaesers(at)wideopenwest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question on posting |
Your email program is probably sending HTML. Find the setting that tells it
to send plain text and see what happens. I use Outlook and that setting is
under the Format menu item.
Dennis Glaeser
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------
Subject: Question on posting
From: jrlewismail-rv(at)yahoo.com
Date: Mon Oct 16 - 5:18 PM
Someone please tell me the trick to posting a message that does not end up
scrambled with extra characters. I have posted several notes and each gets
trashed. What am I doing wrong?=0A=0AR,=0A=0AJRL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bushings vs. Conduit for wing wiring/QB wing stands |
In a message dated 10/16/06 9:36:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
paul.folbrecht(at)veribox.net writes:
> I bought Van's conduit, but now I am rethinking this. Any real
> reason to prefer the conduit to using bushings? The latter requires
> only enlarging existing holes while the conduit requires new 3/4"
> holes in each rib.
========================
Paul:
It is really a no-brainer ... Go with the CONDUIT.
How are you going to fish the wires through the bushings?
You must have very long,very skinny arms. :-)
No problems with hanging wires.
No problems with chaffing.
No problems running a second or third pair of wires for wing-tip mounted
antenna or landing lights or Nav lights or Strobes.
OR DOING ANY TYPE OF ELECTRICAL REPAIR
CAN-DU-IT
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 1st time engine start |
In a message dated 10/16/06 8:50:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bobbyhester(at)charter.net writes:
> I'm hoping to start my XP O-360 engine for the first time Wedensday. I
> remember some discussion a while back about ground runs. This is a new
> engine and I know that when I fly it I should fly it fast til the rings
> seat and oil consumption stabilizes. I think someone said that during
> the inital ground runs that you should keep the cylinder temps below a
> certain temp untill it flys. So what is that temp?
=====================================
Below 450 Deg F as per Lycoming. But I'm sure with the weather getting
colder you should be able to keep it around 400 Deg F during cruse. REMEMBER ...
If the oil temp increases KEEP the Throttle Pushed IN. Slowing the engine down
only causes you to pitch up adding induced drag and makes the engine work
harder with LESS cooling air being forced in. I know, I know, it is a hard thing
to do when human nature says reduce power.
Keep the ground run to a minimum. Just long enough to verify that you have
proper Idle RPM and mixture will do a full cut off and the prop pitch function
(if installed). Then plan your start up, taxi and take off to keep everything
to a minimum. Don't get stuck behind a student!
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rver273sb(at)aol.com |
UNSUBSCRIBE
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Bushings vs. Conduit for wing wiring/QB wing stands |
It's easier to pull wires as opposed to pushing them whether it's bushings
or conduit. Run a heavy string through whatever you use when you are
building. Later, use the same string to pull in wires when you need them.
(Pull in a new string also. You never know if a new wire will be needed.)
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
In a message dated 10/16/06 9:36:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
paul.folbrecht(at)veribox.net writes:
> I bought Van's conduit, but now I am rethinking this. Any real
> reason to prefer the conduit to using bushings? The latter requires
> only enlarging existing holes while the conduit requires new 3/4"
> holes in each rib.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1st time engine start |
I just completed a piston swap in my 0320 to change from 150 to 160 HP. I was advised
to keep the cylinder head temps at 200 or less until the all important
first flight. When I did make the first flight I climbed to 5500 and ran full
throttle for 5 minutes, 23" map for 5 minutes then 22" for an hour. I did what
i need to do to keep the cylinder temps below 400. My cylinder temps dropped
30 degrees 20 minutes into the flight indicating that the rings had seated to
the freshly honed cylinders. These are plain steel cylinders and you should expect
to see the same thing happen, but it could take several hours with hardened
barrels.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
www.carbonfibercomposites.net
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bushings vs. Conduit for wing wiring/QB wing stands |
In a message dated 10/17/2006 4:28:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com writes:
About 15 years ago, I asked Van at the Merced fly-in the same question. Van
told me that the conduit was too heavy for him.
====================
Wow, I knew Van was weight conscious but how heavy is a piece of thin wall
plastic tubing? The 3/4" is a bit large, all you need is 1/2" or what ever
would fit into the existing holes and I would guess the weight for both wings
would be just about 2 Lbs.
Then again, 15 years ago is a long time back. Back then Van was a purest and
did not have the QB Kits.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 22 Msgs - 10/16/06 |
Hi Paul-
I'd go with the conduit. Once the wing is closed up, adding wires, or even
removing ones that are clamped snugly, would be problematic. With a
conduit, you just leave a fish line in place, and you can easily add or
remove wires at your convenience.
As to working on the wings, I just put that rubbery non-skid carpet
underlayment on my work table and put the wing on top of that. It cushions
the wing and keeps it from scooting around while you work on it. No
bracketry or jigging is ever in the way. I'd use that technique again in a
heartbeat.
> From: Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht(at)veribox.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Bushings vs. Conduit for wing wiring/QB wing stands
>
>
> I bought Van's conduit, but now I am rethinking this. Any real
> reason to prefer the conduit to using bushings?
>
> About the wing stand that Van's has on the plans: certainly this is
> not needed for QB wings. I am wondering what is the best way to work
> on the wings in general:
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Question on posting |
Might be using Word for your e-mail editor. Word uses things like "smartie
quotes" which regular html can't figure out. Question marks, apostrophes,
quotation marks, colons, sem-colons.
As with everything else, it's Bill Gates' fault. (g)
Bob
St. Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jrlewismail-rv(at)yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2006 7:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Question on posting
Someone please tell me the trick to posting a message that does not end up
scrambled with extra characters. I have posted several notes and each gets
trashed. What am I doing wrong?
R,
JRL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glennpaulwilkinson" <gpww(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | FS: MicroMonitor, Air Vents and Transponder |
Rocky Mt. MicroMonitor
includes 2 backup batteries and all manuals
2nd digit of CHT is dim but readable, factory says can be fixed in the
field.
$650.00 OBO
Aluminum Air Vents
eyeball type, full swivel, clear anodized, also includes 2 new hose
flanges. Spruce sell for 176.50 ea.
Asking $150.00
Terra TRT 250 Transponder w/ Terra AT-3000 Blind Encoder
Set for $500.00 OBO
Glenn Wilkinson
gpww(at)alltel.net
478-452-6813 wk
478-453-3297 hw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing skin oil-canning |
Doug:
How about rivetting a stiffener to the underside of the skin right
across the middle of the square. A piece of that real light 0.025
"angle" that's used to stiffen the elevators and rudder would probably
do it. An extra line of 5 or 6 rivets won't be noticed.
Doug Fischer wrote:
> I just finished riveting on the top LH wing skins and I noticed one of
> the
> "squares" was indented and would "oil can" when pushed from the inside.
> The square is bounded by two ribs (the fourth and fifth from the tip),
> the
> forward spar, and the "J"stringer. It is the fourth bay inboard from the
> tip (RV-9). All other skin "squares" are tight/neutral. Any ideas
> (other
> than drilling out every rivet in the skin) to address this issue? I was
> thinking of drilling out the rivets around the square to allow the
> skin to
> average out between three squares and re-rivet. Just wanted to see if
> anyone else has run into this problem and worked out a solution. Other
> than this the skin is perfect (well, pretty good at least). Thanks in
> advance for the help!
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Wing skin oil-canning |
Mine had oil canned a bit but once I had all the skins on it worked fine,''
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sarg314
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 10:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing skin oil-canning
Doug:
How about rivetting a stiffener to the underside of the skin right
across the middle of the square. A piece of that real light 0.025 "angle"
that's used to stiffen the elevators and rudder would probably do it. An
extra line of 5 or 6 rivets won't be noticed.
Doug Fischer wrote:
> I just finished riveting on the top LH wing skins and I noticed one of
> the "squares" was indented and would "oil can" when pushed from the
> inside.
> The square is bounded by two ribs (the fourth and fifth from the tip),
> the forward spar, and the "J"stringer. It is the fourth bay inboard
> from the tip (RV-9). All other skin "squares" are tight/neutral. Any
> ideas (other than drilling out every rivet in the skin) to address
> this issue? I was thinking of drilling out the rivets around the
> square to allow the skin to average out between three squares and
> re-rivet. Just wanted to see if anyone else has run into this problem
> and worked out a solution. Other than this the skin is perfect (well,
> pretty good at least). Thanks in advance for the help!
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing skin oil-canning |
In a message dated 10/17/2006 8:23:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dfischer(at)iserv.net writes:
I just finished riveting on the top LH wing skins and I noticed one of the
"squares" was indented and would "oil can" when pushed from the inside.
The square is bounded by two ribs (the fourth and fifth from the tip), the
forward spar, and the "J"stringer. It is the fourth bay inboard from the
tip (RV-9). All other skin "squares" are tight/neutral. Any ideas (other
than drilling out every rivet in the skin) to address this issue? I was
thinking of drilling out the rivets around the square to allow the skin to
average out between three squares and re-rivet. Just wanted to see if
anyone else has run into this problem and worked out a solution. Other
than this the skin is perfect (well, pretty good at least). Thanks in
advance for the help!
==============================
IMO, this case screams out for a very light aluminum angle bonded to the
underside of the skin using one of the 3M structural acrylic adhesive tapes
others have discussed on this list in the past for attaching rudder and aileron
stiffeners.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 813hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing skin oil-canning |
| From: | dfischer(at)iserv.net |
Van's had a similar answer although their suggestion was proseal as the
adhesive. I think I'll go that route. I have proseal left over from the
tanks. It's purely cosmetic but bugging me because it's just one square
out of all the rest. Thanks to all for the help!
Doug Fischer
Jenison, MI
9A Wings
>
> IMO, this case screams out for a very light aluminum angle bonded to the
> underside of the skin using one of the 3M structural acrylic adhesive
> tapes
> others have discussed on this list in the past for attaching rudder and
> aileron
> stiffeners.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 813hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "L Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller6(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Thomas,
Nice videos! I have a couple of questions:
How do you activate the camera when it is mounted on the wing?
How far out did you mount the wing camera? From the picture it looks like that
the mounting bracket is removable.
With your mount on the inside of the canopy, how much interference do you get from
the prop and reflection of the canopy?
Lothar, Denver -6A 666 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Timing Lightspeed |
I have a Lightspeed ignition on
an O-360
Lightspeed says it has to be timed by using
a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
the flywheel.
The problem is that the front baffle is in the way.
Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
flywheel attached!!
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Brown" <cptbuzz(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Airpark Property |
Does anyone know of any airpark property for sale in the concord,
charlotte, lake norman areas? please respond offline to
sbrown2(at)ginncompany.com
Cheers!
Scott Brown
Visit www.cptbuzz.com for the Best Tasting Hot Sauce on the Planet!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Brandes" <matthew(at)n523rv.com> |
| Subject: | RE: catto 3-blade prop |
I too have a 3-blade Catto prop (66x72) on my O-320 RV-9A. It is a nice
looking prop and very smooth. With 145 hours on it, I have a lot of
nicks on the back side of the prop showing white through. I noticed on
Mel Asberry's RV-6 with the Catto prop has no nicks at all and he flies
off a gravel runway. I'm not sure if he has changed paints or just put
it on too thin for my prop but I'll have to repaint the back side at
some point.
As for delivery, this is where Craig really drops the ball. He is a
helluva nice guy but has no sense at all about scheduling. I ordered on
January 19, 20'05 and was told about 16 weeks. It was December 17th
before the prop arrived and I had to bug the hell out of him to get it.
I did give him a grace period in the summer since I knew he was busy.
I'd still recommend Craig's props but always tell people to order a year
in advance!
Matthew
RV-9A :: N523RV
www.n523rv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathleen Evans" <ke2(at)rv7.us> |
| Subject: | RE: Ignition & FI |
After 18 months of no progress, I'm finally back to building (almost). I
have decided on FADEC for spark and fuel, but not getting any response from
the Aerosance people. Is anyone having similar problems? Is anyone getting
good service from them? Finally, do any of you have experience with Eagle
EMS? I know it's not tuned to each cylinder, but it is FADEC-like. I'm
looking at FADEC for an RV-7/XP-360 combination.
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us <http://www.rv7.us/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Lukasczyk" <Lukasczyk(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | re: Video Camera |
Hello Lothar
@How do you activate the camera when it is mounted on the wing?
It is actually a problem I have not been able to solve yet. Tape-recorders will
not stay on stanby forever. They do switch off automaticly after a couple of
minutes. That prevents the rotating video-head from damaging the videotape when
it is not moving. The infrared remote control that comes with the camera has
some trouble in bright sunlight as well. Some cameras have a wired remote or
there is one available. I got one of these but I still have to make a longer wire.
Right now, I start the camera on the ground during preflight. That gives
you an hour.....
@How far out did you mount the wing camera? From the picture it looks like that
the mounting bracket is removable.
Since the RVs do only have a small wingspan and it requires a wide-angle lens to
have at least half of your plane on the video, I mounted it as far out as possible.
Just half an inch away from the wingtips.
The bracket itself is removable. It will stay on the wing with a one layer of strong
duct-tape.
@With your mount on the inside of the canopy, how much interference do you get
from
the prop and reflection of the canopy?
A lot. The reflecion of the canopy is the worst by far though. It depends on the
direction of the sunlight and the time of the day but sometimes there few useable
minutes of video on the tape. I thought about getting a polariser
but I have no idea how much it actually improves things here.
Thomas, rv-4, germany
--
GMX DSL-Flatrate 0,- Euro* - berall, wo DSL verfgbar ist!
NEU: Jetzt bis zu 16.000 kBit/s! http://www.gmx.net/de/go/dsl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Ignition & FI |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Kathleen:
We have talked to the Aerosance guys about FADEC for some Legacy
engines. They always refer us to TCM, and TCM always refers us back to
Aerosance. Ref the EAGLE system by Precision, they were supposed to
roll the system out by the end of September. I'm now hearing that it
will be the beginning of the year before the bugs are worked out. The
system lists for $7900, about $3000 more than standard mags and fuel
injection at today's price.
Hope this information is helpful to you. Best of luck.
Rhonda
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kathleen Evans
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 8:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
After 18 months of no progress, I'm finally back to building (almost).
I have decided on FADEC for spark and fuel, but not getting any response
from the Aerosance people. Is anyone having similar problems? Is
anyone getting good service from them? Finally, do any of you have
experience with Eagle EMS? I know it's not tuned to each cylinder, but
it is FADEC-like. I'm looking at FADEC for an RV-7/XP-360
combination...
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us <http://www.rv7.us/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shemp <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Closing gap in Flap Actuator to Fuselage interface |
I remember seeing someone using one of those foam paint brushes to seal
that gap. Havent tried it yet though.
Shemp
FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 10/12/06 1:27:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> matthew(at)n523rv.com writes:
>
>
>> My thought was to take some baffle material as you suggested, cut out an
>> appropriate sized hole with a slit somewhere to slip it over the flap tube
>> and then just glue it or pop rivet it in place. Let me know if you come up
>> with a better idea.
>>
>>
>> Matthew
>>
> =====================
> Matt:
>
> After spending two years asking question, plugging holes and making diverters
> in the hopes of curing the CO problem that many if not al lRV-6's have ... I
> have finally come up with a solution. It works and it is cheep, yet I have
> not solved the UGLY part of the problem.
> The solution was two curved down exhaust pipes from a local auto shop. They
> are held on with 'U' Clamps and a hunk of safety wire. The only good thing I
> can say about this is there is ZERO CO in the cabin.
>
> I have tried making bellow boots to cover the flap rod, adding a rear facing
> scupper scoop back by the tail, all sorts of diverters in different positions
> and sizes, extra cowl flaps, the hole punched exhaust tips, lowering and
> raising the exhaust pipes. NOTHING worked. Except the two curved down exhaust
> pipes. They give the sound of POWER and maybe even a bit of real useful power
> also.
>
> Barry
> "Chop'd Liver"
> RV-6
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Ignition & FI |
>
>. I=92m looking at FADEC for an RV-7/XP-360 combination=85
I must be too old-fashioned and resistant to change but I
am not enamored with FADEC. Seems like a costly option.
Have you considered things like the P-Mag?
Obviously you can do whatever you wish and my opinion
(perhaps not well-informed at that) should not dissuade
you from doing whatever you want. But given X amount to
spend on an aircraft, I would think that going with some
new glass panel with terrain avoidance, great mapping, weather
etc offers more to the flying experience and safety than FADEC.
Oh yea, big screen glass too!
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
I don't know why the timing light has to be behind the engine. Just
hold it up where it's flash can be seen on the back of the flywheel.
Obviously, more caution is required the closer you get to that spinning
prop. Worked for me.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>
>
>
> I have a Lightspeed ignition on
> an O-360
> Lightspeed says it has to be timed by using
> a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
> the flywheel.
> The problem is that the front baffle is in the way.
> Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
> The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
> flywheel attached!!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Ignition & FI |
And the Eagle system has FIXED ignition timing, hardly state of the art,
or even modern!
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: Rhonda Bewley
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 7:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
Kathleen:
We have talked to the Aerosance guys about FADEC for some Legacy
engines. They always refer us to TCM, and TCM always refers us back to
Aerosance. Ref the EAGLE system by Precision, they were supposed to
roll the system out by the end of September. I'm now hearing that it
will be the beginning of the year before the bugs are worked out. The
system lists for $7900, about $3000 more than standard mags and fuel
injection at today's price.
Hope this information is helpful to you. Best of luck.
Rhonda
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kathleen Evans
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 8:30 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
After 18 months of no progress, I'm finally back to building (almost).
I have decided on FADEC for spark and fuel, but not getting any
response from the Aerosance people. Is anyone having similar problems?
Is anyone getting good service from them? Finally, do any of you have
experience with Eagle EMS? I know it's not tuned to each cylinder, but
it is FADEC-like. I'm looking at FADEC for an RV-7/XP-360 combination.
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Reiche <charlieray(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
Are you suggesting that you are timing your engine using a timing light and
while running? If so, you're nuts.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing Lightspeed
>
> I don't know why the timing light has to be behind the engine. Just hold
> it up where it's flash can be seen on the back of the flywheel.
> Obviously, more caution is required the closer you get to that spinning
> prop. Worked for me.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
> George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a Lightspeed ignition on
>> an O-360
>> Lightspeed says it has to be timed by using
>> a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
>> the flywheel.
>> The problem is that the front baffle is in the way.
>> Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
>> The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
>> flywheel attached!!
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Reiche <charlieray(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Ignition & FI |
magnetos are fixed timing except for the impulse coupling mode.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Lervold
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
And the Eagle system has FIXED ignition timing, hardly state of the art, or even
modern!
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: Rhonda Bewley
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 7:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
Kathleen:
We have talked to the Aerosance guys about FADEC for some Legacy engines.
They always refer us to TCM, and TCM always refers us back to Aerosance. Ref
the EAGLE system by Precision, they were supposed to roll the system out by the
end of September. I'm now hearing that it will be the beginning of the year
before the bugs are worked out. The system lists for $7900, about $3000 more
than standard mags and fuel injection at today's price.
Hope this information is helpful to you. Best of luck.
Rhonda
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kathleen Evans
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 8:30 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
After 18 months of no progress, I'm finally back to building (almost). I have
decided on FADEC for spark and fuel, but not getting any response from the
Aerosance people. Is anyone having similar problems? Is anyone getting good
service from them? Finally, do any of you have experience with Eagle EMS? I
know it's not tuned to each cylinder, but it is FADEC-like. I'm looking at FADEC
for an RV-7/XP-360 combination.
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
It'd be pretty stupid to try to get a timing light to work with the
engine stopped.
Nobody would try to adjust the timing with the engine running, you
simply check it. If it's not quite right then stop the engine, make
an adjustment and retry. This is the suggested method in the
Lightspeed documentation.
You don't stand any closer to the prop than the firewall. If you
don't feel comfortable doing that then don't do it, but I assure you
that I am not nuts.
Phil
On Oct 19, 2006, at 18:20, Charles Reiche wrote:
>
>
> Are you suggesting that you are timing your engine using a timing
> light and while running? If so, you're nuts.
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Birkelbach"
>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 2:02 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing Lightspeed
>
>
>>
>> I don't know why the timing light has to be behind the engine.
>> Just hold it up where it's flash can be seen on the back of the
>> flywheel. Obviously, more caution is required the closer you get
>> to that spinning prop. Worked for me.
>>
>> Godspeed,
>>
>> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
>> RV-7 N727WB
>> http://www.myrv7.com
>>
>>
>>
>> George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a Lightspeed ignition on
>>> an O-360
>>> Lightspeed says it has to be timed by
>>> using
>>> a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
>>> the flywheel.
>>> The problem is that the front baffle is in
>>> the way.
>>> Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
>>> The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
>>> flywheel attached!!
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
The baffles should not be hard to remove. I just took mine off with the
prop and fly wheel in place, they came right off.
------
Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>
>
>
> I have a Lightspeed ignition on
> an O-360
> Lightspeed says it has to be timed by using
> a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
> the flywheel.
> The problem is that the front baffle is in the way.
> Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
> The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
> flywheel attached!!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
What's nuts about it. I do it all the time. I've also located induction leaks with
a can of starting fluid with the engine at idle. I know some have used a vacuum
and soap solution but the other way is easier and quicker in my opinion.
If you have a Plasma system and ever have a backfire in the induction system
with the throttle closed, you'll probably be looking for a blown gasket. You
know the prop is there, just stay away from it. Timing the mags using a timing
light is much more accurate. It's true Dynamic timing!!! Also the light speed
is best timed with a timing light per the manual. You might be surprised what
you see and here standing right beside your engine, cowling off and engine running.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
www.carbonfibercomposites.net
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
I mounted a pointer on the forward side of the front baffle. The pointer can
be set at the case center line very close to the back of the flywheel. It
can be swung away, lock screwed and safety wired when not in use.
This provides an easy and accurate way to set the timing. Reducces
parallelex problems. The back of the flywheel has it's timing mark
highlighted so that when the pointer and the mark meet the timing is right.
I can make pictures available.
Jim in Kelowna, First engine run done. GIIG is alive and ready to fly
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bobbyhester(at)charter.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing Lightspeed
>
> The baffles should not be hard to remove. I just took mine off with the
> prop and fly wheel in place, they came right off.
>
> ------
> Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
>
>
> George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a Lightspeed ignition on
>> an O-360
>> Lightspeed says it has to be timed by using
>> a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
>> the flywheel.
>> The problem is that the front baffle is in the way.
>> Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
>> The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
>> flywheel attached!!
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Ignition & FI |
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kathleen Evans
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 8:30 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
>
> After 18 months of no progress, Im finally back to building (almost).
> I have decided on FADEC for spark and fuel, but not getting any
> response from the Aerosance people. Is anyone having similar problems?
> Is anyone getting good service from them? Finally, do any of you have
> experience with Eagle EMS? I know its not tuned to each cylinder, but
> it is FADEC-like. Im looking at FADEC for an RV-7/XP-360 combination
>
> Kathleen Evans
>
How much work are you willing to do to get something FADEC-like? (Almost
nothing out there is really FullAuthorityDEC.) Tracy Crook (Real World
Solutions) makes a dual-computer, redundant fuel/ignition controller
that can work on a Lyc, but you'd have to install injector bungs on the
intakes & develop your own plumbing to the injectors. It uses automotive
style timed injection with high pressure pumps requiring a fuel return
line to the tank.
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/
These guys:
http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
make billet injector bungs you can use to mount the injectors. They also
make an injector/ignition controller adaptable to Lycs.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
Charles,
I'm with Phil on this. Using a timing light is the ultimate for
timing accuracy. I generally sit on the right wing while checking the
timing with the engine running. This works well when done in low
light, such as at dusk. As Phil mentions, adjustments are made with
the engine off.
Charlie Kuss
>
>It'd be pretty stupid to try to get a timing light to work with the
>engine stopped.
>
>Nobody would try to adjust the timing with the engine running, you
>simply check it. If it's not quite right then stop the engine, make
>an adjustment and retry. This is the suggested method in the
>Lightspeed documentation.
>
>You don't stand any closer to the prop than the firewall. If you
>don't feel comfortable doing that then don't do it, but I assure you
>that I am not nuts.
>
>Phil
>
>On Oct 19, 2006, at 18:20, Charles Reiche wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>Are you suggesting that you are timing your engine using a timing
>>light and while running? If so, you're nuts.
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Birkelbach"
>>
>>To:
>>Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 2:02 PM
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing Lightspeed
>>
>>
>>>
>>>I don't know why the timing light has to be behind the engine.
>>>Just hold it up where it's flash can be seen on the back of the
>>>flywheel. Obviously, more caution is required the closer you get
>>>to that spinning prop. Worked for me.
>>>
>>>Godspeed,
>>>
>>>Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
>>>RV-7 N727WB
>>>http://www.myrv7.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>George Inman 204 287 8334 wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have a Lightspeed ignition on
>>>>an O-360
>>>> Lightspeed says it has to be timed by
>>>>using
>>>>a timing light from behind the engine shining forward onto
>>>>the flywheel.
>>>> The problem is that the front baffle is in
>>>>the way.
>>>>Do I have to remove the baffle or did someone find a better way?
>>>> The baffle is difficult to remove especialy with the prop and
>>>>flywheel attached!!
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Timing Lightspeed |
Brian,
Using a flammable fluid to locate induction leaks is a time honored
technique among auto mechanics. However, I would like to suggest that
aerosol carburetor cleaner or aerosol throttle body cleaner is a
better choice. The ether in starting fluid is HIGHLY volatile and
poses the threat of detonation. Carb and throttle body cleaners are safer.
Charlie Kuss
>What's nuts about it. I do it all the time. I've also located
>induction leaks with a can of starting fluid with the engine at
>idle. I know some have used a vacuum and soap solution but the other
>way is easier and quicker in my opinion. If you have a
>Plasma system and ever have a backfire in the induction system with
>the throttle closed, you'll probably be looking for a blown gasket.
>You know the prop is there, just stay away from it. Timing the mags
>using a timing light is much more accurate. It's true Dynamic
>timing!!! Also the light speed is best timed with a timing light per
>the manual. You might be surprised what you see and here standing
>right beside your engine, cowling off and engine running.
>
>BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
>CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
>101 Caroline Circle
>Hurricane, WV 25526
>www.carbonfibercomposites.net
>304-562-6800 home
>304-395-4932 cell
>
>How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
>
>
><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
><http://www.matronics.com/contribution>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | I need the pinout for Garmin GTX 327 |
Hi,
Actually, I just need power and ground pin numbers.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I need the pinout for Garmin GTX 327 |
Hi Hal,
I could send your the whole pin-out, if you need it.
The power and ground for DB-25 are:
Power Input (+11 to +33): 15
Power Ground: 13
Power Ground: 25
14VDC/5 VC Panel Lighting Input: 24
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A flying
Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Actually, I just need power and ground pin numbers.
>
> hal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I need the pinout for Garmin GTX 327 |
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
Hal,
Pin 15 Power In 14/28V
Pin 13 Power Ground
Pin 25 Signal Ground
Pin 23 28V Panel Lighting In
Pin 24 14V/5V Panel Lighting In
Pin 1 Avionics Master On (Input) (Tie to Pin 15 for auto power up)
I strongly recommend you drop an email to Garmin tech support and ask
for a copy of the install manual. I can send a copy but my edition (Rev
L June 2006) has so many errors, it's no wonder they require it be
supplied with a pre-built harness.
There is no such thing as a simple question!
Doug Gray
>
> Hi,
>
> Actually, I just need power and ground pin numbers.
>
> hal
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I need the pinout for Garmin GTX 327 |
On 20 Oct 2006, at 16:37, Hal Kempthorne wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Actually, I just need power and ground pin numbers.
>
From the install manual, rev J, dated May 2003:
Power - pin 15
Ground - pins 13 & 25
Panel lighting input - pin 24 (assuming a 14v system)
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "don wentz" <dasduck(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Ignition & FI |
Kathleen,
I agree with Ron.
I personally know of 2 aircraft with Fadecs. One has fallen from the
sky at
least twice, the other is not working well.
I fly with that one fairly often, and one time on a very long cross
country.
With 800 hr mags I consistently get much better fuel economy than the
fadec
as well.
I now have an E-mag on the right and a 950 hr Slick Mag on the left,
both
are working well.
Fadec and other systems may be a thing of the future, but that future
isn=92t
here yet.
As always, if your goal is to =91experiment=92 and help =91blaze the
trail=92 for
the rest of us, then go for it.
Otherwise, spend your $$ on something else.
Don
RV-6 950hrs
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
. I=92m looking at FADEC for an RV-7/XP-360 combination=85
I must be too old-fashioned and resistant to change but I
am not enamored with FADEC. Seems like a costly option.
Have you considered things like the P-Mag?
Obviously you can do whatever you wish and my opinion
(perhaps not well-informed at that) should not dissuade
you from doing whatever you want. But given X amount to
spend on an aircraft, I would think that going with some
new glass panel with terrain avoidance, great mapping, weather
etc offers more to the flying experience and safety than FADEC.
Oh yea, big screen glass too!
Ron Lee
10/20/2006
--
10/20/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kenneth hill" <khill5(at)indy.rr.com> |
| Subject: | FAA seat belt requirement |
The FAA inspected my RV-9A yesterday and all went well, thank you very
much. I now have a legal airplane and am preparing for the phase 1
flyoff. However, the inspector said my seat belts, the 4 point style
from Van's, were not TSO'd and therefore not legal for me to use. He
said I would have to change them to a TSO'd brand before I could fly the
plane. Has anyone else run into this? I talked to Van's and their
opinion was "it is an experimental and therefore the non-FAA PMA
seatbelts are acceptable." Do I make the government happy and maybe
avoid problems down the road by changing them or continue with what I
have installed?
Ken Hill
Plainfield, IN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | FAA seat belt requirement |
Continue with what you have. I had a couple of these things on my
inspection also, but being experimental means we can use what we want.
There are a few thousand airplanes flying with those seatbelts including
mine.
Tim
RV-6 N616TB
Repositioned to Texas
24 hours and counting
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kenneth hill
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 5:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirement
The FAA inspected my RV-9A yesterday and all went well, thank you very much.
I now have a legal airplane and am preparing for the phase 1 flyoff.
However, the inspector said my seat belts, the 4 point style from Van's,
were not TSO'd and therefore not legal for me to use. He said I would have
to change them to a TSO'd brand before I could fly the plane. Has anyone
else run into this? I talked to Van's and their opinion was "it is an
experimental and therefore the non-FAA PMA seatbelts are acceptable." Do I
make the government happy and maybe avoid problems down the road by changing
them or continue with what I have installed?
Ken Hill
Plainfield, IN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA seat belt requirement |
Below is a post from the AeroElectric-List. It mostly addresses
requirements for VFR and IFR operations, but towards the bottom it
addresses seat belts. How hard you try to convince the FAA that in your
choice.
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by:
10/09/2006
Hello Rob, The FAA has a back hand way of applying FAR Sec 91.205 to
Amateur Built Experimental Aircraft (ABEA) and it takes a little
research and careful reading of different documents to sort out what
applies when.
First, if you are operating the ABEA day VFR then none, I repeat NONE,
of 91.205 applies to the instrumentation or equippage of that aircraft.
(See Note 1 below).
Hard to believe isn't it, but that is true because as you noted 91.205
applies to aircraft with standard category US airworthiness certificates
and not to our ABEA's that instead receive special airworthiness
certificates. (This is what permits very simple ABEA's like a Woody
Pusher or Breezy to fly legally day VFR with nothing in the way of
91.205 instruments or equipment if the builder / pilot chooses to do so).
Second, the instant that you start operating that ABEA at night or under
IFR then 91.205 comes into play, not to the entire extent (See Note 2
below) that it does for aircraft with standard airworthiness
certificates, but compliance with 91.205 for ABEA's does become
extensive. Why is that?
It is because each ABEA has been issued a special airworthiness
certificate that includes a set of Operating Limitations that contain
these words "After completion of Phase I flight testing, unless
appropriately equipped for night and/or instrument flight in accordance
with 91.205, this aircraft is to be operated under VFR, day only."
The intent and interpretation by the FAA of that sentence is that if the
ABEA is operating VFR at night then paragraphs 91.205 (b) and (c) must
be complied with. If the ABEA is operating under IFR then paragraphs
91.205 (b), (c), and (d) must be complied with. (I suppose that some sea
lawyer could argue that for day IFR one would not have to comply with
91.205 (c) (1) and thereby not comply with 91.205 (b), but that is not
the way that the FAA interprets the word "appropriately" in that
sentence in the Operating Limitations.)
Because this subject is a bit convoluted I have put together a table
that lays the information out in fairly compact reference form. I will
send you a copy of this table attached to a separate email. If anyone
else would like a copy just email me. This table was also published on
page 50 of the June 2006 issue of Kitplanes magazine.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
OC -- The best investment we will ever make is in gathering knowledge
Note 1: While 91.205 (b) (15) may not apply that does not excuse an ABEA
from complying with 91.207 regarding ELT's.
Note 2: Certain sub paragraphs of 91.205 refer to needing "approved"
items. This issue becomes a bit fuzzy because since there are no
certification criteria published for ABEA how can one determine whether
an item is "approved" or not for installation in an ABEA?
A commonly taken position both by many builders and by FAA and DAR
initial airworthiness inspectors of ABEA's is that if the item can
affect operations by other aircraft as well as the ABEA, such as
exterior lighting for example, then an item which has been approved for
installation on standard airworthiness certified aircraft will be
required on the ABEA.
On the other hand arguments have been successfully made that if the item
affects only the internal functioning of the ABEA, such as seat belts
and shoulder harnesses for example, then these items do not have to be
"approved" (by a TSO marking for example). I have been involved in a few
of these discussions and, with the aid of communication from FAA
headquarters, have forced the inspector to back off the TSO marking
requirement for both seat belts and shoulder harness which were already
purchased and installed by the builder. I do not recommend letting it
get to that point though. Instead I recommend coordinating with the
inspector before the belts are purchased to determine his individual
requirements.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob" <punchy(at)frontiernet.net>
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2006 1:07 PM
Subject: FAA Part 91.205
OC,
I was wondering if you could clearify FAA Part 91.205 for me. As I
understand this FAR it applies to powered civil aircraft with a standard
category U.S. airworthiness certificate. Is our experimental airworthiness
certificate under this catagory? It requires a manifold pressure gauge for
each altitude engine. It does not require a CHT or EGT. This does not
seem right for experimental aircraft. I would much rather have a CHT and
EGT than a manifold pressure gauge although I have all three on my KIS. I
was also wondering if my VFR day only plane needs to have a strobe and nav
lights?
Maybe you could enlighten me.
Thanks,
Rob
kenneth hill wrote:
> The FAA inspected my RV-9A yesterday and all went well, thank you very
> much. I now have a legal airplane and am preparing for the phase 1
> flyoff. However, the inspector said my seat belts, the 4 point style
> from Van's, were not TSO'd and therefore not legal for me to use. He
> said I would have to change them to a TSO'd brand before I could fly
> the plane. Has anyone else run into this? I talked to Van's and
> their opinion was "it is an experimental and therefore the non-FAA PMA
> seatbelts are acceptable." Do I make the government happy and maybe
> avoid problems down the road by changing them or continue with what I
> have installed?
>
> Ken Hill
> Plainfield, IN.
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Porter" <december29(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA seat belt requirement |
Yep,
I have the same concerns as mine hasn't been inspected yet. I
purchased two sets of 5 pt harnesses from Simpson that are super strong
and certified for NASCAR. I'm hoping to not have a problem, I guess it
depends on the inspector.
John
80002
----- Original Message -----
From: kenneth hill
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirement
The FAA inspected my RV-9A yesterday and all went well, thank you very
much. I now have a legal airplane and am preparing for the phase 1
flyoff. However, the inspector said my seat belts, the 4 point style
from Van's, were not TSO'd and therefore not legal for me to use. He
said I would have to change them to a TSO'd brand before I could fly the
plane. Has anyone else run into this? I talked to Van's and their
opinion was "it is an experimental and therefore the non-FAA PMA
seatbelts are acceptable." Do I make the government happy and maybe
avoid problems down the road by changing them or continue with what I
have installed?
Ken Hill
Plainfield, IN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | FAA seat belt requirement |
It does depend on the inspector. Mine never said a word about my seat
belts. Other things he did say, some of which I changed and some I didn't.
Bottom line is once completed and inspected, if he didn't *require* you to
change something before signing you off, then you make the choice. It
sounds like Ken has a completed inspection. If this is so and you are happy
with your installation then I say just go start flying and have fun. It
sounds like Larry provided good info also for backing to your plan.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Porter
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 5:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirement
Yep,
I have the same concerns as mine hasn't been inspected yet. I purchased
two sets of 5 pt harnesses from Simpson that are super strong and certified
for NASCAR. I'm hoping to not have a problem, I guess it depends on the
inspector.
John
80002
----- Original Message -----
From: kenneth hill <mailto:khill5(at)indy.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: FAA seat belt requirement
The FAA inspected my RV-9A yesterday and all went well, thank you very much.
I now have a legal airplane and am preparing for the phase 1 flyoff.
However, the inspector said my seat belts, the 4 point style from Van's,
were not TSO'd and therefore not legal for me to use. He said I would have
to change them to a TSO'd brand before I could fly the plane. Has anyone
else run into this? I talked to Van's and their opinion was "it is an
experimental and therefore the non-FAA PMA seatbelts are acceptable." Do I
make the government happy and maybe avoid problems down the road by changing
them or continue with what I have installed?
Ken Hill
Plainfield, IN.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gordon or marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Ignition & FI |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rhonda Bewley
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
Ref the EAGLE system by Precision, they were supposed to roll the system
out by the end of September. I'm now hearing that it will be the beginning
of the year before the bugs are worked out. The system lists for $7900,
about $3000 more than standard mags and fuel injection at today's price.
.
Rhonda
Rhonda: Could you amplify on the above comment a bit, please? I have been
waiting for the Eagle system hoping it would work out. Their Oshkosh
presense was not too impressive. If it is going to be months before they
have their problems solved with no real certainty they are truly solved,
then my backup plan (have ordered E-mag/P-mag combo) should be allowed to
proceed. Thank you.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <lors01(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Ignition & FI |
I'll second that Don. I'll match my engine tuning skills against any of
the existing FADEC systems. That's why the EFI system I use has a
manual mixture control and in-cockpit adjustable ignition timing.
Many of the so-called FADEC systems are not actually "FA" (Full
Authority) in that they have a direct mechanical link between the
throttle quadrant and the throttle butterfly valve. To have any chance
of being better at engine management than a human being, a fly-by-wire
arrangement is necessary. This of course adds yet another failure mode
but that's the trade-off.
Tracy Crook
Rotary powered RV-4, 1600+ hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: don wentz<mailto:dasduck(at)comcast.net>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 9:13 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
Kathleen,
I agree with Ron.
I personally know of 2 aircraft with Fadecs. One has fallen from the
sky at least twice, the other is not working well.
I fly with that one fairly often, and one time on a very long cross
country.
With 800 hr mags I consistently get much better fuel economy than the
fadec as well.
I now have an E-mag on the right and a 950 hr Slick Mag on the left,
both are working well.
Fadec and other systems may be a thing of the future, but that future
isn=92t here yet.
As always, if your goal is to =91experiment=92 and help =91blaze the
trail=92 for the rest of us, then go for it.
Otherwise, spend your $$ on something else.
Don
RV-6 950hrs
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2006 8:05 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Ignition & FI
. I=92m looking at FADEC for an RV-7/XP-360 combination=85
I must be too old-fashioned and resistant to change but I
am not enamored with FADEC. Seems like a costly option.
Have you considered things like the P-Mag?
Obviously you can do whatever you wish and my opinion
(perhaps not well-informed at that) should not dissuade
you from doing whatever you want. But given X amount to
spend on an aircraft, I would think that going with some
new glass panel with terrain avoidance, great mapping, weather
etc offers more to the flying experience and safety than FADEC.
Oh yea, big screen glass too!
Ron Lee
-- Date: 10/20/2006
--
10/20/2006
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
ator?RV-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
on>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "c172.58(at)juno.com" <c172.58(at)juno.com> |
Can anyone tell me if you make the F-704L straps out of four of the six
pieces of AS3-063x0.0625x3 included in Bag 1982 or do you just make them
out of misc. stock? Any idea what those pieces are for otherwise? Tha
nks.
________________________________________________________________________
Can anyone tell me if you make the F-704L straps out of four of th
e six pieces of AS3-063x0.0625x3 included in Bag 1982 or do you just mak
e them out of misc. stock? Any idea what those pieces are for othe
rwise? Thanks.
______________________
__________________________________________________
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