RV-Archive.digest.vol-sk
November 22, 2006 - December 12, 2006
> self-etching primers and would like to know which ones folks have been using
> with success. We would like to find something that comes packaged in rattle
> cans for small jobs, but is also available by the gallon when we move to
> larger assemblies.
>
> P. A. Barker
> RV-9 (tail kit)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper) |
| Subject: | Re: Searching for a self-etching primer |
The owner of my local PPG store recommended the SEM Self-Etching Primer
in a rattle can for small parts. He said it will be fine to later spray
PPG primers and top coats over it.
Pete Cowper
RV-8 #81139
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Service Ceiling |
Can someone please provide the accepted service ceiling for an RV-8 with an
IO-360 and Sensenich metal prop. 'Shop checking my altimeter and
transponder in place says needs this altitude figure.
Thanks Much in Advance,
Jack
_________________________________________________________________
Get free, personalized commercial-free online radio with MSN Radio powered
by Pandora http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Service Ceiling |
>Can someone please provide the accepted service ceiling for an RV-8 with
>an IO-360 and Sensenich metal prop. 'Shop checking my altimeter and
>transponder in place says needs this altitude figure.
I would use 23,000' according to this link:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-8per.htm
180 HP and solo.
I never has anyone ask me the same for my plane.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Fuel line question (Dana) Now Steel fittings |
In a message dated 11/22/2006 3:00:15 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
flyadive(at)aol.com writes:
GAULING ... Some call it FRETTING
=======================================
Galling and fretting are, technically speaking, two different phenomena.
Galling is actually a friction weld, where the intimacy of two like materials
causes them to roughen locally and fuse together at the high pressure
interface. It can be broken up thru the use of certain lubricants (molydisulfide,
fittings).
Fretting is the result of micromotion or hammering together of two
non-intimate surfaces. This results in work hardening, surface removal exposing
fresh
surfaces to be degraded and ultimately micro-cracking.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 816hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Service Ceiling |
Better to tell the shop to use 20,000 ft. Otherwise you need an
altimeter certified higher, either 30 or 35K, which will cost you more.
No sense in doing it unless you intend to use it.
Ron Lee wrote:
>
>
>> Can someone please provide the accepted service ceiling for an RV-8
>> with an IO-360 and Sensenich metal prop. 'Shop checking my altimeter
>> and transponder in place says needs this altitude figure.
>
> I would use 23,000' according to this link:
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-8per.htm
>
> 180 HP and solo.
>
> I never has anyone ask me the same for my plane.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Service Ceiling |
We have always used a 20,000' altimeter.
Doug Preston
RV-7A N196VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Service Ceiling |
My recent xpdr check was done to 20K. They didn't ask me for that figure.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 11:21 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Service Ceiling
>
>
> Better to tell the shop to use 20,000 ft. Otherwise you need
> an altimeter certified higher, either 30 or 35K, which will
> cost you more.
> No sense in doing it unless you intend to use it.
> Ron Lee wrote:
> >
> >
> >> Can someone please provide the accepted service ceiling
> for an RV-8
> >> with an IO-360 and Sensenich metal prop. 'Shop checking
> my altimeter
> >> and transponder in place says needs this altitude figure.
> >
> > I would use 23,000' according to this link:
> >
> > http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-8per.htm
> >
> > 180 HP and solo.
> >
> > I never has anyone ask me the same for my plane.
> >
> > Ron Lee
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Day/night VFR requirements |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
What are the equipment requirements to operate day/night VFR ?
I may be being dense but I'm finding it hard to locate a
definitive list ...
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hedrick" <khedrick(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Day/night VFR requirements |
This is taken from- aopa.org
Keith Hedrick
Rv-6
Carlinville il
3LF
======================
Required Flight Instruments And Equipment
VFR Day: ATOMS LEFR
Memory Aid ATOMS Love Electrons Flying Round
AA Altimeter, airspeed indicator
TT Tachometer, temperature gauge
OO Oil temperature, oil pressure gauges
MM Magnetic compass, manifold pressure gauge
SS Seat belt, shoulder harness
L Landing gear position indicator (retractable-gear aircraft)
E Emergency locator transmitter
F Fuel quantity gauge for each tank
R Rotating beacon
VFR Night: Atoms LEFR + PLFA
Memory Aid ATOMS LEFR plus Pilots Love Flying Airplanes
P Position lights (green right wing, red left wing, white tail)
L Landing light (only if used for hire, not flight instruction)
F Fuses a spare set of each required type accessible to the pilot in
flight
A Anticollision light (red and/or white) rotating beacon
IFR: Above VFR instruments and equipment for either day or night, plus
RRSACAPD
Memory Aid Read Regulations So Aviation Credentials Always Produce
Dividends
R Two-way radio
R Gyroscopic rate of turn indicator (turn coordinator)
S Slip/skid indicator (inclinometer)
A Altimeter adjustable for barometric pressure
C Clock with digital or sweep hour, minutes, and seconds display
A Alternator or generator
P Gyroscopic pitch and bank indicator (attitude indicator)
D Gyroscopic direction indicator (heading indicator)
Flight Instruments By Group
Pitch Instruments
Altimeter
Airspeed indicator (ASI)
Attitude indicator (AI)
Vertical speed indicator (VSI)
Bank Instruments
Heading indicator (HI)
Attitude indicator (AI)
Turn coordinator
Power Instruments
Tachometer (RPM)
Manifold pressure (MP-aircraft with constant-speed propellers)
Airspeed indicator (ASI)
Flight Instruments By System
Pitot-Static Instruments
Pressure altimeter
Vertical speed indicator (VSI)
Airspeed indicator (ASI)
Gyroscopic (Vacuum) Instruments
Attitude indicator (AI)
Heading indicator (HI)
Gyroscopic (Electric) Instruments
Turn coordinator (many aircraft)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2006 1:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Day/night VFR requirements
What are the equipment requirements to operate day/night VFR ?
I may be being dense but I'm finding it hard to locate a
definitive list ...
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Day/night VFR requirements |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
On 11/23/06 1:53 PM, "Gerry Filby" wrote:
>
>
> What are the equipment requirements to operate day/night VFR ?
> I may be being dense but I'm finding it hard to locate a
> definitive list ...
Here is the list..
Doug Weiler
------------------------------
>From FAR 91.205:
(a) General. Except as provided in paragraphs (c)(3) and (e) of this
section, no person may operate a powered civil aircraft with a standard
category U.S. airworthiness certificate in any operation described in
paragraphs (b) through (f) of this section unless that aircraft contains the
instruments and equipment specified in those paragraphs (or FAA-approved
equivalents) for that type of operation, and those instruments and items of
equipment are in operable condition.
(b) Visual-flight rules (day). For VFR flight during the day, the following
instruments and equipment are required:
(1) Airspeed indicator.
(2) Altimeter.
(3) Magnetic direction indicator.
(4) Tachometer for each engine.
(5) Oil pressure gauge for each engine using pressure system.
(6) Temperature gauge for each liquid-cooled engine.
(7) Oil temperature gauge for each air-cooled engine.
(8) Manifold pressure gauge for each altitude engine.
(9) Fuel gauge indicating the quantity of fuel in each tank.
(10) Landing gear position indicator, if the aircraft has a retractable
landing gear.
(11) For small civil airplanes certificated after March 11, 1996, in
accordance with part 23 of this chapter, an approved aviation red or
aviation white anticollision light system. In the event of failure of any
light of the anticollision light system, operation of the aircraft may
continue to a location where repairs or replacement can be made.
(12) If the aircraft is operated for hire over water and beyond power-off
gliding distance from shore, approved flotation gear readily available to
each occupant and, unless the aircraft is operating under part 121 of this
subchapter, at least one pyrotechnic signaling device. As used in this
section, shore means that area of the land adjacent to the water which is
above the high water mark and excludes land areas which are intermittently
under water.
(13) An approved safety belt with an approved metal-to-metal latching device
for each occupant 2 years of age or older.
(14) For small civil airplanes manufactured after July 18, 1978, an approved
shoulder harness for each front seat. The shoulder harness must be designed
to protect the occupant from serious head injury when the occupant
experiences the ultimate inertia forces specified in 23.561(b)(2) of this
chapter. Each shoulder harness installed at a flight crewmember station must
permit the crewmember, when seated and with the safety belt and shoulder
harness fastened, to perform all functions necessary for flight operations.
For purposes of this paragraph
(i) The date of manufacture of an airplane is the date the inspection
acceptance records reflect that the airplane is complete and meets the
FAA-approved type design data; and
(ii) A front seat is a seat located at a flight crewmember station or any
seat located alongside such a seat.
(15) An emergency locator transmitter, if required by 91.207.
(16) For normal, utility, and acrobatic category airplanes with a seating
configuration, excluding pilot seats, of 9 or less, manufactured after
December 12, 1986, a shoulder harness for
(i) Each front seat that meets the requirements of 23.785 (g) and (h) of
this chapter in effect on December 12, 1985;
(ii) Each additional seat that meets the requirements of 23.785(g) of this
chapter in effect on December 12, 1985.
(17) For rotorcraft manufactured after September 16, 1992, a shoulder
harness for each seat that meets the requirements of 27.2 or 29.2 of this
chapter in effect on September 16, 1991.
(c) Visual flight rules (night). For VFR flight at night, the following
instruments and equipment are required:
(1) Instruments and equipment specified in paragraph (b) of this section.
(2) Approved position lights.
(3) An approved aviation red or aviation white anticollision light system on
all U.S.-registered civil aircraft. Anticollision light systems initially
installed after August 11, 1971, on aircraft for which a type certificate
was issued or applied for before August 11, 1971, must at least meet the
anticollision light standards of part 23, 25, 27, or 29 of this chapter, as
applicable, that were in effect on August 10, 1971, except that the color
may be either aviation red or aviation white. In the event of failure of any
light of the anticollision light system, operations with the aircraft may be
continued to a stop where repairs or replacement can be made.
(4) If the aircraft is operated for hire, one electric landing light.
(5) An adequate source of electrical energy for all installed electrical and
radio equipment.
(6) One spare set of fuses, or three spare fuses of each kind required, that
are accessible to the pilot in flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Day/night VFR requirements |
Check out FAR 91.205(b), (c), & (e). While the start says is is only applicable
to standard category aircraft, the operating limitations that will be issued
with the Special A/w cert will have a paragraph that says " Unless appropriately
equipped in accordance with 21.205 for night and/or IFR flight, the aircraft
is restricted to say VFR."
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
----------------------------------------
> Subject: RV-List: Day/night VFR requirements
> From: gerf(at)gerf.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2006 11:53:57 -0800
>
>
>
> What are the equipment requirements to operate day/night VFR ?
> I may be being dense but I'm finding it hard to locate a
> definitive list ...
>
> __g__
>
> ==========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Day/night VFR requirements |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Thanks all !!
(I get a mental block just looking at the cover of the FAR/AIM
..)
Follow up question ... in the the "R" in "ATOMS LEFR" - I don't
think I've ever seen a rotating beacon on an RV - do we have to
comply ?
g
>
>
> This is taken from- aopa.org
>
> Keith Hedrick
> Rv-6
> Carlinville il
> 3LF
> >
>
> Required Flight Instruments And Equipment
>
>
> VFR Day: ATOMS LEFR
> Memory Aid ATOMS Love Electrons Flying Round
>
> AA Altimeter, airspeed indicator
> TT Tachometer, temperature gauge
> OO Oil temperature, oil pressure gauges
> MM Magnetic compass, manifold pressure gauge
> SS Seat belt, shoulder harness
> L Landing gear position indicator (retractable-gear aircraft)
> E Emergency locator transmitter
> F Fuel quantity gauge for each tank
> R Rotating beacon
>
> VFR Night: Atoms LEFR + PLFA
> Memory Aid ATOMS LEFR plus Pilots Love Flying Airplanes
>
> P Position lights (green right wing, red left wing, white tail)
> L Landing light (only if used for hire, not flight instruction)
> F Fuses a spare set of each required type accessible to the pilot in
> flight
> A Anticollision light (red and/or white) rotating beacon
>
> IFR: Above VFR instruments and equipment for either day or night, plus
> RRSACAPD
> Memory Aid Read Regulations So Aviation Credentials Always Produce
> Dividends
>
> R Two-way radio
> R Gyroscopic rate of turn indicator (turn coordinator)
> S Slip/skid indicator (inclinometer)
> A Altimeter adjustable for barometric pressure
> C Clock with digital or sweep hour, minutes, and seconds display
> A Alternator or generator
> P Gyroscopic pitch and bank indicator (attitude indicator)
> D Gyroscopic direction indicator (heading indicator)
>
> Flight Instruments By Group
>
> Pitch Instruments
>
> Altimeter
> Airspeed indicator (ASI)
> Attitude indicator (AI)
> Vertical speed indicator (VSI)
>
> Bank Instruments
>
> Heading indicator (HI)
> Attitude indicator (AI)
> Turn coordinator
>
> Power Instruments
>
> Tachometer (RPM)
> Manifold pressure (MP-aircraft with constant-speed propellers)
> Airspeed indicator (ASI)
>
> Flight Instruments By System
>
> Pitot-Static Instruments
>
> Pressure altimeter
> Vertical speed indicator (VSI)
> Airspeed indicator (ASI)
>
> Gyroscopic (Vacuum) Instruments
>
> Attitude indicator (AI)
> Heading indicator (HI)
>
> Gyroscopic (Electric) Instruments
>
> Turn coordinator (many aircraft)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
> Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2006 1:54 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Day/night VFR requirements
>
>
>
> What are the equipment requirements to operate day/night VFR ?
> I may be being dense but I'm finding it hard to locate a
> definitive list ...
>
> __g__
>
> > Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _->
_-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _->
>
>
>
--
__g__
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | More Great List Comments - Please Make A Contribution! |
Dear Listers,
There's a little less than one week left for this year's List Fund Raiser. I thought
it would a great time to share a few more of the great comments I've been
receiving from Contributors regarding what the Lists mean to them. There are
some particularly poignant ones in this batch and I encourage you to have a
look at some of them.
Don't forget that once you make your Contribution, the Contribution Squelch kicks
in and you won't receive any future messages from me regarding the Fund Raiser
this year! This holds true for the Realtime and Digest distributions and
now also the HTML and TXT links included with the Digest! (Note that for technical
reasons, if someone replies to one of my contribution messages, the Squelch
will _not_ be activated, and you will still receive it. Contribution messages
will also still be found on the Forums site and the List Browse).
Please make your Contribution today to support these List services! Pick up a
great Gift too!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
============================= WLAS #2 ============================
Tackling my project without the List would be like
building on a deserted island. The List has made me
part of a learning (and laughing) community. -Larry W
Thank you for providing such a fantastic resource for us
Kolbers. I'm very happy to contribute towards keeping such a
wonderful resource available. -Geoff T
..you do a great service for the flying community by
providing this service. -John L
..solidly administered. -James C
A great source of information. -Ralph S
The Lists have likely saved a numbers of lives... -James F
..exceptional user service. -Larry W
Better than a magazine! -Aaron G
Thanks to your List I will be able to finish and fly
my project. Without the help of the great people on
your List I doubt it would have happened. -Ed G
I learn something on a too regular basis thanks to
these lists! -Ralph C
..valuable service. -John F
..a well administered service. -Stewart C
Great forum! -Ronald C
A great service! -Andy H
Been reading the lists since my first RV in 1999. Good
work and as necessary to me as a rivet. -Albert G
The lists are a great help. -Gary S
This resource has been critical to my building success
so far. -Timothy F
Great system and support! -Richard P
Very helpful in the building my CH 701. -Ralph S
Another year of entertainment and pleasure! -Larry B
A great resource for all of us. -Larry W
Another year of great service! Once again, the
information is worth more than I can ever contribute.
Thank you also for the "community" that the List fosters.
I cannot tell you the number of times that seeing an
friend's name come up has caused so many awesome memories
to come flooding back - along with the eager desire to
gather with these great guys again. I love hearing the
beginner's enthusiasm, the builder's progress, and the
flyer's success... -Robert B
Our list has great info and I love reading the
"Flame Posts! " -Stephen M
Great service! -James B
Excellent source of information. -David P
You provide a very valuable service to the aviation
community. -David H
The RV related lists have been a tremendous help in the
construction of my RV-7... -Norman R
Awesome list!! -John E
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Thank you for making it so easy to stay in touch
with my fellow RV-10 builders. -David J
I love the list and have been a reader for a long
time. -James V
Continues to be a great service! -George A
Awesome List server. -Deke M
Many of us would never finish our airplanes without
[the List]. With it, I'm getting close! -Ronald C
An excellent source of both information and
inspiration! -William R
Forums and format are easy to use. -Jack B
Great help with my kit building. -Ralph H
Super service. -Richard N
Still loving it. -Jared S
You have a fantastic web! -Harvey R
..a great service. -James M
Glad you are there... -David A
I get some great information on your list. -John P
Fantastic service. Couldn't have made it as far
as I have without it. -Stephen T
A great learning experience with my RV-6A. -Ron B
Great resources! -Jason H
Well done. Very valuable. -Jeffrey D
Great resource for the experimental aircraft
community. -Chris H
This List has been one of the most helpful tools in
building my RV-10, since I build alone, and do not
have any help readily available. Without the List,
I could not have embarked on building my RV-10. -Jim H
You run a great list there. -James H
Really like the Kolb List. -Don W
============================= WLAS #2 ============================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder bottom secrets? |
Fellow listers,
Are there any secrets to fitting the fiberglass rudder bottom cap? I'm cleaning
up a bunch of little things that I have been putting off and I have come to
this chunk of plastic.
Its not cut in a straight line although the bottom of the rudder is - that's one
issue. There does not appear to be a mold line to cut to either.
The other issue is cutting out the forward notch for the rudder throw arms. I've
seen this done a couple of different ways - the one that comes closest to what
I would like to do is cutting the horizontal line of the rudder arms forward
and putting in a few nutplates to screw it back together after it is installed.
I don't recall reading anything in the instructions on how this is to be accomplished
(OK - I'll read them again to be sure). I can make a template of the area
that it fits to - but how do you ensure that both sides are symmetrical?
Any explicit instructions or photos would be greatly appreciated.
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Aligning wings and a bunch of little things.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder bottom secrets? |
Richard,
I don't have any photos, but I will admit to one mistake I made which is
still visable on my airplane.
I had the same concerns that you do, so I just trimmed until it looked right.
But, when I assembled the whole airplane it is obvious that the rudder
bottom sticks about 1/4 inch lower than it should. So my advice is to wait to
fit
it after you have the vertical stab on the fuselage.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A Flying since July '04
In a message dated 11/24/2006 8:10:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
Fellow listers,
Are there any secrets to fitting the fiberglass rudder bottom cap? I'm
cleaning up a bunch of little things that I have been putting off and I have come
to this chunk of plastic.
Its not cut in a straight line although the bottom of the rudder is - that's
one issue. There does not appear to be a mold line to cut to either.
The other issue is cutting out the forward notch for the rudder throw arms.
I've seen this done a couple of different ways - the one that comes closest to
what I would like to do is cutting the horizontal line of the rudder arms
forward and putting in a few nutplates to screw it back together after it is
installed.
I don't recall reading anything in the instructions on how this is to be
accomplished (OK - I'll read them again to be sure). I can make a template of
the
area that it fits to - but how do you ensure that both sides are symmetrical?
Any explicit instructions or photos would be greatly appreciated.
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Aligning wings and a bunch of little things.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder bottom secrets? |
My VS is on so I'll hopefully not have it sticking out the bottom....Thanks,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
>Sent: Nov 24, 2006 9:10 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder bottom secrets?
>
>Richard,
>
>I don't have any photos, but I will admit to one mistake I made which is
>still visable on my airplane.
>
>I had the same concerns that you do, so I just trimmed until it looked right.
> But, when I assembled the whole airplane it is obvious that the rudder
>bottom sticks about 1/4 inch lower than it should. So my advice is to wait to
fit
>it after you have the vertical stab on the fuselage.
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A Flying since July '04
>
>
>In a message dated 11/24/2006 8:10:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
>Fellow listers,
>
>Are there any secrets to fitting the fiberglass rudder bottom cap? I'm
>cleaning up a bunch of little things that I have been putting off and I have come
>to this chunk of plastic.
>
>Its not cut in a straight line although the bottom of the rudder is - that's
>one issue. There does not appear to be a mold line to cut to either.
>The other issue is cutting out the forward notch for the rudder throw arms.
>I've seen this done a couple of different ways - the one that comes closest to
>what I would like to do is cutting the horizontal line of the rudder arms
>forward and putting in a few nutplates to screw it back together after it is
>installed.
>
>I don't recall reading anything in the instructions on how this is to be
>accomplished (OK - I'll read them again to be sure). I can make a template of
the
>area that it fits to - but how do you ensure that both sides are symmetrical?
>
>Any explicit instructions or photos would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Aligning wings and a bunch of little things.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder bottom secrets? |
Here's a link to a short tutorial I found on the internet about attaching
the rudder bottom. It doesn't mention how much of the rudder top to cut off.
On my RV-9A the rudder fiberglass bottom actually has a faint line on the
service to indicate where to cut the flanges off. I had to hold it up to the
light to see the line.
http://www.cafes.net/leo/RV-6/R-Fairing/R-Fairing.html
Have a goodun!
Smitty's RV-9A
http://SmittysRV.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
"RV7 Yahoo list"
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 7:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder bottom secrets?
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> Are there any secrets to fitting the fiberglass rudder bottom cap? I'm
> cleaning up a bunch of little things that I have been putting off and I
> have come to this chunk of plastic.
>
> Its not cut in a straight line although the bottom of the rudder is -
> that's one issue. There does not appear to be a mold line to cut to
> either.
> The other issue is cutting out the forward notch for the rudder throw
> arms. I've seen this done a couple of different ways - the one that comes
> closest to what I would like to do is cutting the horizontal line of the
> rudder arms forward and putting in a few nutplates to screw it back
> together after it is installed.
>
> I don't recall reading anything in the instructions on how this is to be
> accomplished (OK - I'll read them again to be sure). I can make a
> template of the area that it fits to - but how do you ensure that both
> sides are symmetrical?
>
> Any explicit instructions or photos would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Aligning wings and a bunch of little things.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder bottom secrets? |
Smitty,
The tutorial you've pointed me to also has a reference to a RVator article that
I will check out.
I'll look for the line again on my bottom part.
Stuff like this makes my donation worth it!
Thanks,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Smitty <smitty(at)smittysrv.com>
>Sent: Nov 24, 2006 10:13 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder bottom secrets?
>
>
>Here's a link to a short tutorial I found on the internet about attaching
>the rudder bottom. It doesn't mention how much of the rudder top to cut off.
>On my RV-9A the rudder fiberglass bottom actually has a faint line on the
>service to indicate where to cut the flanges off. I had to hold it up to the
>light to see the line.
>
>http://www.cafes.net/leo/RV-6/R-Fairing/R-Fairing.html
>
>Have a goodun!
>Smitty's RV-9A
>http://SmittysRV.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>To: "rv-list" ; "RV6 list" ;
>"RV7 Yahoo list"
>Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 7:08 AM
>Subject: RV-List: Rudder bottom secrets?
>
>
>>
>> Fellow listers,
>>
>> Are there any secrets to fitting the fiberglass rudder bottom cap? I'm
>> cleaning up a bunch of little things that I have been putting off and I
>> have come to this chunk of plastic.
>>
>> Its not cut in a straight line although the bottom of the rudder is -
>> that's one issue. There does not appear to be a mold line to cut to
>> either.
>> The other issue is cutting out the forward notch for the rudder throw
>> arms. I've seen this done a couple of different ways - the one that comes
>> closest to what I would like to do is cutting the horizontal line of the
>> rudder arms forward and putting in a few nutplates to screw it back
>> together after it is installed.
>>
>> I don't recall reading anything in the instructions on how this is to be
>> accomplished (OK - I'll read them again to be sure). I can make a
>> template of the area that it fits to - but how do you ensure that both
>> sides are symmetrical?
>>
>> Any explicit instructions or photos would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Ralph Capen
>> RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Aligning wings and a bunch of little things.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Service Ceiling |
Thanks all responding. Found out the reason shop asked for altitude is
their (FAA?) form lists altitudes in 2000 ft increments (at least around
20,000 ft.). So, they suggested use 22,000 ft. ceiling for my -8.
Thanks Again, Jack
>From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 Service Ceiling
>Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2006 11:07:52 -0500
>
>
>My recent xpdr check was done to 20K. They didn't ask me for that figure.
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 11:21 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Service Ceiling
> >
> >
> > Better to tell the shop to use 20,000 ft. Otherwise you need
> > an altimeter certified higher, either 30 or 35K, which will
> > cost you more.
> > No sense in doing it unless you intend to use it.
> > Ron Lee wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >> Can someone please provide the accepted service ceiling
> > for an RV-8
> > >> with an IO-360 and Sensenich metal prop. 'Shop checking
> > my altimeter
> > >> and transponder in place says needs this altitude figure.
> > >
> > > I would use 23,000' according to this link:
> > >
> > > http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/rv-8per.htm
> > >
> > > 180 HP and solo.
> > >
> > > I never has anyone ask me the same for my plane.
> > >
> > > Ron Lee
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Photoshare, and much much more:
> >
> >
> >
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get free, personalized commercial-free online radio with MSN Radio powered
by Pandora http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Day/night VFR requirements |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
One, two, or three strobe lights fulfill this requirement.
Doug Weiler
On 11/23/06 10:38 PM, "Gerry Filby" wrote:
>
>
> Thanks all !!
>
> (I get a mental block just looking at the cover of the FAR/AIM
> ..)
>
> Follow up question ... in the the "R" in "ATOMS LEFR" - I don't
> think I've ever seen a rotating beacon on an RV - do we have to
> comply ?
>
> g
>
>>
>>
>> This is taken from- aopa.org
>>
>> Keith Hedrick
>> Rv-6
>> Carlinville il
>> 3LF
>>>
>>
>> Required Flight Instruments And Equipment
>>
>>
>> VFR Day: ATOMS LEFR
>> Memory Aid ATOMS Love Electrons Flying Round
>>
>> AA Altimeter, airspeed indicator
>> TT Tachometer, temperature gauge
>> OO Oil temperature, oil pressure gauges
>> MM Magnetic compass, manifold pressure gauge
>> SS Seat belt, shoulder harness
>> L Landing gear position indicator (retractable-gear aircraft)
>> E Emergency locator transmitter
>> F Fuel quantity gauge for each tank
>> R Rotating beacon
>>
>> VFR Night: Atoms LEFR + PLFA
>> Memory Aid ATOMS LEFR plus Pilots Love Flying Airplanes
>>
>> P Position lights (green right wing, red left wing, white tail)
>> L Landing light (only if used for hire, not flight instruction)
>> F Fuses a spare set of each required type accessible to the pilot in
>> flight
>> A Anticollision light (red and/or white) rotating beacon
>>
>> IFR: Above VFR instruments and equipment for either day or night, plus
>> RRSACAPD
>> Memory Aid Read Regulations So Aviation Credentials Always Produce
>> Dividends
>>
>> R Two-way radio
>> R Gyroscopic rate of turn indicator (turn coordinator)
>> S Slip/skid indicator (inclinometer)
>> A Altimeter adjustable for barometric pressure
>> C Clock with digital or sweep hour, minutes, and seconds display
>> A Alternator or generator
>> P Gyroscopic pitch and bank indicator (attitude indicator)
>> D Gyroscopic direction indicator (heading indicator)
>>
>> Flight Instruments By Group
>>
>> Pitch Instruments
>>
>> Altimeter
>> Airspeed indicator (ASI)
>> Attitude indicator (AI)
>> Vertical speed indicator (VSI)
>>
>> Bank Instruments
>>
>> Heading indicator (HI)
>> Attitude indicator (AI)
>> Turn coordinator
>>
>> Power Instruments
>>
>> Tachometer (RPM)
>> Manifold pressure (MP-aircraft with constant-speed propellers)
>> Airspeed indicator (ASI)
>>
>> Flight Instruments By System
>>
>> Pitot-Static Instruments
>>
>> Pressure altimeter
>> Vertical speed indicator (VSI)
>> Airspeed indicator (ASI)
>>
>> Gyroscopic (Vacuum) Instruments
>>
>> Attitude indicator (AI)
>> Heading indicator (HI)
>>
>> Gyroscopic (Electric) Instruments
>>
>> Turn coordinator (many aircraft)
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
>> Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2006 1:54 PM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Day/night VFR requirements
>>
>>
>>
>> What are the equipment requirements to operate day/night VFR ?
>> I may be being dense but I'm finding it hard to locate a
>> definitive list ...
>>
>> __g__
>>
>>> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _->
>> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _-> _->
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | travelliing to Ottawa |
I will be visiting in the Ottawa area from this coming Thursday Nov. 30
until Dec 9.
I will have time to sight see and visit in and around the Ottawa area.
If any aircraft homebuilders want to share and compare notes and pictures,
coffee, etc. please advise as to contact information.
Thanks,
Jim in Kelowna - Finished RV6-A waiting for the paperwork to be returned
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: travelliing to Ottawa |
Hi Jim:
I don't live in Ottawa but, I have visited my daughter there a few times.
Just wanted to suggest that you save at least an afternoon for the Aviation
Museaum. A very pleasant way to spend an afternoon.
Tailwinds, Terry.
RV-6A, fuselage in jig.
P.S. If you happen to be driving to Ottawa you can always stop here in Sault
Ste Marie for a visit.
----- Original Message -----
>
> I will be visiting in the Ottawa area from this coming Thursday Nov. 30
> until Dec 9.
> I will have time to sight see and visit in and around the Ottawa area.
> If any aircraft homebuilders want to share and compare notes and pictures,
> coffee, etc. please advise as to contact information.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim in Kelowna - Finished RV6-A waiting for the paperwork to be returned
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Searching for a self-etching primer |
Harry, did you scuff the SEM surface first? I've used SEM on all interior
parts and then scuffed it with Scotchbrite fairly thoroughly when it came
time to paint. I'm not flying yet so I don't know if I'll have an adhesion
problem but not so far.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 4:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Searching for a self-etching primer
>
> SEM self etching primer is good but a word of caution is in order. If you
> plan to apply a finish coat over the SEM you must first lay on a coat of
> regular primer that is compatible with the finish. If you skip this step
> you will find that the finish coat doesen't adhere well to the SEM and the
> top coat will eventually start to peel in places, usually the most visible
> and obvious places. Don't bother asking me how I learned this.
> --
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6 N16CX, 291 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Jim-
If you like Cajun food, check out Big Daddy's at the south end of the
business district on Elgin (?) street. Wonderful food, great city!
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder bottom secrets? |
Hey Smitty, Did your have a faint line for the forward notch, because my
fiberglass bottom looks like it does.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder bottom secrets?
>
> Smitty,
>
> The tutorial you've pointed me to also has a reference to a RVator article
> that I will check out.
>
> I'll look for the line again on my bottom part.
>
> Stuff like this makes my donation worth it!
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Smitty <smitty(at)smittysrv.com>
>>Sent: Nov 24, 2006 10:13 AM
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder bottom secrets?
>>
>>
>>Here's a link to a short tutorial I found on the internet about attaching
>>the rudder bottom. It doesn't mention how much of the rudder top to cut
>>off.
>>On my RV-9A the rudder fiberglass bottom actually has a faint line on the
>>service to indicate where to cut the flanges off. I had to hold it up to
>>the
>>light to see the line.
>>
>>http://www.cafes.net/leo/RV-6/R-Fairing/R-Fairing.html
>>
>>Have a goodun!
>>Smitty's RV-9A
>>http://SmittysRV.com
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>>To: "rv-list" ; "RV6 list"
>>;
>>"RV7 Yahoo list"
>>Sent: Friday, November 24, 2006 7:08 AM
>>Subject: RV-List: Rudder bottom secrets?
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Fellow listers,
>>>
>>> Are there any secrets to fitting the fiberglass rudder bottom cap? I'm
>>> cleaning up a bunch of little things that I have been putting off and I
>>> have come to this chunk of plastic.
>>>
>>> Its not cut in a straight line although the bottom of the rudder is -
>>> that's one issue. There does not appear to be a mold line to cut to
>>> either.
>>> The other issue is cutting out the forward notch for the rudder throw
>>> arms. I've seen this done a couple of different ways - the one that
>>> comes
>>> closest to what I would like to do is cutting the horizontal line of the
>>> rudder arms forward and putting in a few nutplates to screw it back
>>> together after it is installed.
>>>
>>> I don't recall reading anything in the instructions on how this is to be
>>> accomplished (OK - I'll read them again to be sure). I can make a
>>> template of the area that it fits to - but how do you ensure that both
>>> sides are symmetrical?
>>>
>>> Any explicit instructions or photos would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Ralph Capen
>>> RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Aligning wings and a bunch of little things.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> 11/24/2006
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill shook <billshook2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Airmap 1000 reviews? |
I would appreciate any views on the airmap 1000 unit from those who have experience
with
them. All of the reviews I find online are glowing but those can be misleading
at
times. Thanks for any thoughts you might have.
Bill
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again) |
Once again, I discovered a broken exhaust component on my 160 HP -6.
Previously, I've broken the little crimped brake lines that Vetterman
provides as part of the system. I've also broken the little 1" or so
aluminum angles that you use as part of the assembly that ties the pipes
together.
Today was another failure of the little aluminum angles. The only
problem it caused was a slight rise in CHT, probably because part of the
air outlet was blocked, and obviously, there was nothing keeping the
pipes from moving laterally.
Anyway, I think I'm going to get two more of the heavy duty exhaust
clamps from Vetterman and use them, a couple of bolts, and a piece of
welding hose instead of the 2 aluminum angles, 2 pieces of brake line,
and 4 bolts that keep the pipes from moving laterally.
Anyone got a better idea? Three failures in 430 hours tells me that
this system needs to be reworked.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again) |
Yep, use a piece of 6061T6 bar, .250" thick, .750" wide, maybe 6" or so long
to tie the pipes together. I kept breaking those angles early on and
followed the "when in doubt build it stout" rule and haven't had any
problems in 600 or so hours since. Once I tied the pipes together solidly
then the other hangers quit breaking. There's still enough "give" to allow
for thermal expansion or movement.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On 11/25/06, Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> Once again, I discovered a broken exhaust component on my 160 HP -6.
> Previously, I've broken the little crimped brake lines that Vetterman
> provides as part of the system. I've also broken the little 1" or so
> aluminum angles that you use as part of the assembly that ties the pipes
> together.
>
> Today was another failure of the little aluminum angles. The only problem
> it caused was a slight rise in CHT, probably because part of the air outlet
> was blocked, and obviously, there was nothing keeping the pipes from moving
> laterally.
>
> Anyway, I think I'm going to get two more of the heavy duty exhaust clamps
> from Vetterman and use them, a couple of bolts, and a piece of welding hose
> instead of the 2 aluminum angles, 2 pieces of brake line, and 4 bolts that
> keep the pipes from moving laterally.
>
> Anyone got a better idea? Three failures in 430 hours tells me that this
> system needs to be reworked.
>
> KB
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again) |
Quick question....are your hangers still mounted to the engine mount? If so
I'm afraid you'll probably still continue to break them (as many of us
experienced repeatedly). You need to make sure the hangers go up to the
engine case instead of the mount. If you're already doing that, then I
don't know exactly what the deal is....
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 7:43 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again)
Once again, I discovered a broken exhaust component on my 160 HP -6.
Previously, I've broken the little crimped brake lines that Vetterman
provides as part of the system. I've also broken the little 1" or so
aluminum angles that you use as part of the assembly that ties the pipes
together.
Today was another failure of the little aluminum angles. The only problem
it caused was a slight rise in CHT, probably because part of the air outlet
was blocked, and obviously, there was nothing keeping the pipes from moving
laterally.
Anyway, I think I'm going to get two more of the heavy duty exhaust clamps
from Vetterman and use them, a couple of bolts, and a piece of welding hose
instead of the 2 aluminum angles, 2 pieces of brake line, and 4 bolts that
keep the pipes from moving laterally.
Anyone got a better idea? Three failures in 430 hours tells me that this
system needs to be reworked.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again) |
I had the same problem early on, after about 80 hours or so.....so I
made my own hangars and they have been working perfectly now for nearly
300 hours...
http://www.rv8a.com/engine/engine3.htm
look toward the bottom of the page for details and photos...
-Bill VonDane
www.rv8a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 6:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again)
Once again, I discovered a broken exhaust component on my 160 HP -6.
Previously, I've broken the little crimped brake lines that Vetterman
provides as part of the system. I've also broken the little 1" or so
aluminum angles that you use as part of the assembly that ties the pipes
together.
Today was another failure of the little aluminum angles. The only
problem it caused was a slight rise in CHT, probably because part of the
air outlet was blocked, and obviously, there was nothing keeping the
pipes from moving laterally.
Anyway, I think I'm going to get two more of the heavy duty exhaust
clamps from Vetterman and use them, a couple of bolts, and a piece of
welding hose instead of the 2 aluminum angles, 2 pieces of brake line,
and 4 bolts that keep the pipes from moving laterally.
Anyone got a better idea? Three failures in 430 hours tells me that
this system needs to be reworked.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again) |
I suggest to get in touch with Vetterman. He may have a better way of
supporting the exhaust pipes since your install. Two years ago I
installed mine using the Vetterman exhaust instructions / parts supplied
from order through Vans and all the support brackets attach to the
engine and nothing touches or attaches to the engine mount. That could
be your problem. I haven't had any problems in over 150 hours. Larry
in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 7:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again)
Once again, I discovered a broken exhaust component on my 160 HP -6.
Previously, I've broken the little crimped brake lines that Vetterman
provides as part of the system. I've also broken the little 1" or so
aluminum angles that you use as part of the assembly that ties the pipes
together.
Today was another failure of the little aluminum angles. The only
problem it caused was a slight rise in CHT, probably because part of the
air outlet was blocked, and obviously, there was nothing keeping the
pipes from moving laterally.
Anyway, I think I'm going to get two more of the heavy duty exhaust
clamps from Vetterman and use them, a couple of bolts, and a piece of
welding hose instead of the 2 aluminum angles, 2 pieces of brake line,
and 4 bolts that keep the pipes from moving laterally.
Anyone got a better idea? Three failures in 430 hours tells me that
this system needs to be reworked.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again) |
Larry Vetterman has a new exhaust hanger scheme which I have installed
in my 6A (not flying yet). It uses 2 edel clamps which attach to an
engine mount tube and support a piece of 1/8 aluminum plate. A rubber
automotive exhaust support hangs from that and the stainless steel
exhaust clamp hangs from the rubber support. It helped a lot with a
clearance problem I had with the exhaust pipes.
It's flying on a few planes now. Larry thinks it may be superior.
Having installed his standard method first, I think it is too, but only
time will tell.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | apply for registration |
I have a registration number reserved, but haven't taken the next step -
actually applying for the registration number. I'm having a hard time
estimating how long it is going to take to get the plane finished. My
best guess is 3 to 6 months.
Suppose I apply for and get the registration complete in 90 days (FAA
says 90 - 120, though I've heard some guys claim it took them 6
months). Does the FAA care if 3 months goes by after they give me the
number before I actually get my airworthyness certificate?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | apply for registration |
My aircraft was registered two years before I applied for the airworthiness
certificate.
The People's Republic of California wanted me to pay PROPERTY TAX on it once
it was registered but they accepted incomplete till it flew. The only extra
work was writing the letter to the tax man that it was not an airplane yet.
I did notify them that it was an airplane a few days after it made its first
flight. I am not sure if the FEDs care other than it is registered when you
get your airworthiness inspection. You need your 8150-3 "hard card"
registration back from OK City and in your possesion for that.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,972 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
----Original Message Follows----
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: apply for registration
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 22:09:17 -0700
I have a registration number reserved, but haven't taken the next step -
actually applying for the registration number. I'm having a hard time
estimating how long it is going to take to get the plane finished. My best
guess is 3 to 6 months.
Suppose I apply for and get the registration complete in 90 days (FAA says
90 - 120, though I've heard some guys claim it took them 6 months). Does
the FAA care if 3 months goes by after they give me the number before I
actually get my airworthyness certificate?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
_________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: apply for registration |
I've had my Registration for a couple of years now - no complaints from the
FAA - but it does trigger potential action from your local tax
collector........
YMMV
Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 12:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: apply for registration
>
> I have a registration number reserved, but haven't taken the next step -
> actually applying for the registration number. I'm having a hard time
> estimating how long it is going to take to get the plane finished. My
> best guess is 3 to 6 months.
> Suppose I apply for and get the registration complete in 90 days (FAA says
> 90 - 120, though I've heard some guys claim it took them 6 months). Does
> the FAA care if 3 months goes by after they give me the number before I
> actually get my airworthyness certificate?
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | apply for registration |
You can register it now if you want and still be fine. However, make sure
you put everything on the registration correctly as your airworthiness must
match it exactly. If you move, start the process to change your address and
get a new registration right away. The address must match also.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sarg314
> Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 11:09 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: apply for registration
>
>
> I have a registration number reserved, but haven't taken the next step -
> actually applying for the registration number. I'm having a hard time
> estimating how long it is going to take to get the plane finished. My
> best guess is 3 to 6 months.
>
> Suppose I apply for and get the registration complete in 90 days (FAA
> says 90 - 120, though I've heard some guys claim it took them 6
> months). Does the FAA care if 3 months goes by after they give me the
> number before I actually get my airworthyness certificate?
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | apply for registration |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
I just went through this, and gave myself plenty of time to correct any
mistakes. They do not care how much time is between registration and the
issuance of an airworthiness certificate. What the registration does is
kick off the local tax guy trying to collect on your airplane, so this
is why many delay as long as possible. The website says upto 6 weeks for
processing, but I got mine back in 3 weeks. I used the homebuilders
video and followed the steps they used, highly recommended. But the
easy/cheap way to get the video is to make the donation to the list, as
we all should each year because they are such a valuable resource, and
then get the free gift, which happened to be the registration video.
Dan
N289DT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sarg314
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 12:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: apply for registration
I have a registration number reserved, but haven't taken the next step -
actually applying for the registration number. I'm having a hard time
estimating how long it is going to take to get the plane finished. My
best guess is 3 to 6 months.
Suppose I apply for and get the registration complete in 90 days (FAA
says 90 - 120, though I've heard some guys claim it took them 6
months). Does the FAA care if 3 months goes by after they give me the
number before I actually get my airworthyness certificate?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Gold" <andygold(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again) |
My hanger system broke too several times. Typically the adel clamp that
attached the crimped aluminum rod to the engine mount cracked. This
happened even through I kept things as loose as possible to absorb the
vibration. So far I solved it by making the system even more flexible.
I cut the aluminum tube in half and then rejoined them with a piece of
rubber fuel line held together with small hose clamps. It seems very
loose and the exaust tips easily sway back and forth by about an inch or
two. But they are securely hung from the mount and don't fail anymore.
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 6:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again)
Once again, I discovered a broken exhaust component on my 160 HP -6.
Previously, I've broken the little crimped brake lines that Vetterman
provides as part of the system. I've also broken the little 1" or so
aluminum angles that you use as part of the assembly that ties the pipes
together.
Today was another failure of the little aluminum angles. The only
problem it caused was a slight rise in CHT, probably because part of the
air outlet was blocked, and obviously, there was nothing keeping the
pipes from moving laterally.
Anyway, I think I'm going to get two more of the heavy duty exhaust
clamps from Vetterman and use them, a couple of bolts, and a piece of
welding hose instead of the 2 aluminum angles, 2 pieces of brake line,
and 4 bolts that keep the pipes from moving laterally.
Anyone got a better idea? Three failures in 430 hours tells me that
this system needs to be reworked.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Gold" <andygold(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | oil and fuel hose maintenance? |
Is there a routine time (in years or hours) that flexible oil and fuel
lines should be replaced, for no reason other than that they have
reached a certain age?
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again) |
Consider that the engine is vibrating and particularly at shut down it
shakes like some describe as a wet dog drying itself.
If the exhaust is attached to the engine mount without lots and lots of
give, consider what the exhaust and engine mount are doing to each
other. Something has got to give. Whatever, Can't be good for the
exhaust.
I hope you can begin to see the idea why the new Vetterman exhaust
brackets attaches the exhaust to the engine and not on the engine mount.
They want the exhaust pipes to move with the engine and not conflict
with the engine mount.
I suggest contacting Vetterman or Vans for the latest method and
attaching brackets. Indiana Larry, RV7, +150 Hrs TMX-O360
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Gold
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again)
My hanger system broke too several times. Typically the adel clamp
that attached the crimped aluminum rod to the engine mount cracked.
This happened even through I kept things as loose as possible to absorb
the vibration. So far I solved it by making the system even more
flexible. I cut the aluminum tube in half and then rejoined them with a
piece of rubber fuel line held together with small hose clamps. It
seems very loose and the exaust tips easily sway back and forth by about
an inch or two. But they are securely hung from the mount and don't
fail anymore.
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 6:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again)
Once again, I discovered a broken exhaust component on my 160 HP -6.
Previously, I've broken the little crimped brake lines that Vetterman
provides as part of the system. I've also broken the little 1" or so
aluminum angles that you use as part of the assembly that ties the pipes
together.
Today was another failure of the little aluminum angles. The only
problem it caused was a slight rise in CHT, probably because part of the
air outlet was blocked, and obviously, there was nothing keeping the
pipes from moving laterally.
Anyway, I think I'm going to get two more of the heavy duty exhaust
clamps from Vetterman and use them, a couple of bolts, and a piece of
welding hose instead of the 2 aluminum angles, 2 pieces of brake line,
and 4 bolts that keep the pipes from moving laterally.
Anyone got a better idea? Three failures in 430 hours tells me that
this system needs to be reworked.
KB
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again) |
I hung my exhaust pipes from firewall with a piece of rubber cut from an old
tire betweeeen two short lengths of stainless steel. Same arrangement as
Christen Eagle has. No problems in 100 hours since change.
Ollie 6A Central FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again)
>
> Larry Vetterman has a new exhaust hanger scheme which I have installed in
> my 6A (not flying yet). It uses 2 edel clamps which attach to an engine
> mount tube and support a piece of 1/8 aluminum plate. A rubber automotive
> exhaust support hangs from that and the stainless steel exhaust clamp
> hangs from the rubber support. It helped a lot with a clearance problem I
> had with the exhaust pipes.
> It's flying on a few planes now. Larry thinks it may be superior. Having
> installed his standard method first, I think it is too, but only time will
> tell. --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil and fuel hose maintenance? |
Andy Gold wrote:
> Is there a routine time (in years or hours) that flexible oil and
> fuel lines should be replaced, for no reason other than that they
> have reached a certain age?
>
> Andy
Andy,
I recall this topic coming up some time ago and someone said they had
read "five years in service or seven years on the shelf". I don't know
where these numbers are documented (can't find it on the Aeroquip site)
but I found the following on the Sacramento Sky Ranch site:
http://www.sacskyranch.com/h_life.htm
I replaced the oil and fuel hoses on my RV-6 last year (six years in
service) but the old hoses looked to be in perfect condition. Guess this
is an area where common sense should rule.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> |
| Subject: | Quick Build Fuselage Primer? |
I'm just starting on my -8 QB Fuselage. I know it has a Wash Primer on the interior.
How good is it?
Should I and if I do a primer on it how much prep do I need to do? I guess I
should determine now if I am going to prime before I start running stuff like
the rudder cables are the first thing to do !
Thanks,
Dan
-8
Snohomish WA
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Broken Exhaust Hangar (Again) |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Searching for a self-etching primer |
Randy,
Yes, I scrubbed all my parts with Simple Green, thoroughly rinsed and scuffed
them with Scotch Brite before applying the SEM primer. After discovering the
finish coat peeling problem I went back to the local distributor for SEM and one
of the old hands there told me that I should have used an intermediate primer
over the SEM etching primer. The peeling hasn't happened everywhere (so far),
only in places where it really shows up. Fortunately I used a top coat that
is pretty close to the color of the SEM or it could be worse.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 291 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
>
> Harry, did you scuff the SEM surface first? I've used SEM on all interior
> parts and then scuffed it with Scotchbrite fairly thoroughly when it came
> time to paint. I'm not flying yet so I don't know if I'll have an adhesion
> problem but not so far.
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-3.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <HCRV6(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2006 4:23 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Searching for a self-etching primer
>
> >
> > SEM self etching primer is good but a word of caution is in order. If you
> > plan to apply a finish coat over the SEM you must first lay on a coat of
> > regular primer that is compatible with the finish. If you skip this step
> > you will find that the finish coat doesen't adhere well to the SEM and the
> > top coat will eventually start to peel in places, usually the most visible
> > and obvious places. Don't bother asking me how I learned this.
> > --
> > Harry Crosby
> > RV-6 N16CX, 291 hours
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Searching for a self-etching primer |
>Yes, I scrubbed all my parts with Simple Green, thoroughly rinsed and
>scuffed them with Scotch Brite before applying the SEM primer. After
>discovering the finish coat peeling problem I went back to the local
>distributor for SEM and one of the old hands there told me that I should
>have used an intermediate primer over the SEM etching primer. The peeling
>hasn't happened everywhere (so far), only in places where it really shows
>up. Fortunately I used a top coat that is pretty close to the color of
>the SEM or it could be worse.
I have heard (unverified) that Simple Green is not good for Aluminum.
There may be a formulation that is so ask around
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List of Contributors Coming Soon - Make Sure You're Listed! |
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st I post
a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their
appreciation for the Lists.
As a number of people have pointed out in their Contribution comments, the List
seems at least as valuable of a building/flying/recreating tool as a typical
your magazine subscription! And how interactive is a magazine, after all? :-)
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by droping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
USA
(Please include your email address on the check!)
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: hose options, was oil and fuel hose maintenance |
Hi Andy et al-
The folks at Earl's indicate that their hoses should last a lifetime, as
long as they don't suffer mechanical damage and are reasonably protected
from heat. All the $higher$ end fittings and hoses are reusable, and the
fittings swivel to reduce stresses and installation hassles. The up front
costs are similar to Aeroquip, but unlike Aeroquip the hoses don't require
any special tools or talent to fabricate, and they should never have to be
replaced. The only caveat I can think of is that if one installed the
Teflon lined hose on the brake caliper, the lining could melt if you got
the brake hot enough. I'm not sure if that's possible without a fire,
though-
FWIW-
Andy Gold wrote:
> Is there a routine time (in years or hours) that flexible oil and
> fuel lines should be replaced, for no reason other than that they
> have reached a certain age?
>
> Andy
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: hose options, was oil and fuel hose maintenance |
Standard industry practice is to replace hoses at overhaul time.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,972 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
----Original Message Follows----
Andy Gold wrote:
> Is there a routine time (in years or hours) that flexible oil and
> fuel lines should be replaced, for no reason other than that they
> have reached a certain age?
>
> Andy
_________________________________________________________________
View Athletes Collections with Live Search
http://sportmaps.live.com/index.html?source=hmemailtaglinenov06&FORM=MGAC01
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Searching for a self-etching primer |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
The original formulation of Simple Green is definitely NOT good for
aluminum. If it gets in a crack, crevice, overlap joint or other
hideouts, it is highly corrosive. The Air Force has a ban on Simple
Green for use with aircraft. Within the last few months, Simple Green
has brought out an 'aircraft formulation' of the product, which
supposedly will not aggressively corrode aluminum. An excellent cleaner
but use with care and Read-the-Label to make sure you are using the
correct one. Note: Even the old formulation, when used on open sections
of aluminum and thoroughly wiped away, will cause no problem, but rivet
heads and seams are impossible to remove all the SG.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2006 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Searching for a self-etching primer
>Yes, I scrubbed all my parts with Simple Green, thoroughly rinsed and
>scuffed them with Scotch Brite before applying the SEM primer. After
>discovering the finish coat peeling problem I went back to the local
>distributor for SEM and one of the old hands there told me that I
should
>have used an intermediate primer over the SEM etching primer. The
peeling
>hasn't happened everywhere (so far), only in places where it really
shows
>up. Fortunately I used a top coat that is pretty close to the color of
>the SEM or it could be worse.
I have heard (unverified) that Simple Green is not good for Aluminum.
There may be a formulation that is so ask around
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop gov. question |
Dana,
On my McCauley governor, if I loosen all 6 allen head screws, the inner part
can be set at any angle. You can put the bracket on any one of six ways. I
don't know if that applies to all governors, or not.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A IO-360-A!A
In a message dated 11/27/2006 8:46:24 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bo124rs(at)hotmail.com writes:
Doing my final firewall forward wrapup and have this question. I need to
reorient the prop gov arm for an RV install. It looks I only need to go one
hole clockwise. Right to the point. How do I do it? Any gremlins?
http://rvflying.tripod.com/gov.jpg
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: apply for registration |
Tom,
I had the same concerns but the federales popped mine back in less than two
weeks. But I'd send it to them right away anyhow. No reason whatsoever to
wait.
Of course, YMMV
Jerry Cochran
In a message dated 11/26/2006 12:02:33 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: apply for registration
I have a registration number reserved, but haven't taken the next step -
actually applying for the registration number. I'm having a hard time
estimating how long it is going to take to get the plane finished. My
best guess is 3 to 6 months.
Suppose I apply for and get the registration complete in 90 days (FAA
says 90 - 120, though I've heard some guys claim it took them 6
months). Does the FAA care if 3 months goes by after they give me the
number before I actually get my airworthyness certificate?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ivo welch <ivowel(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | truemap and motion m1300 outdoor tablet PC |
dear RV-ers.
About 3 years ago, I purchased a license for truemap software. It was
never used. It cost $595, and I presume that because it was never
activated, the folks there will be kind enough to transfer this to
anyone who wants to use it. (if not, I will take it back and refund the
money.) I also purchased a Motion M1300 tablet PC, *with outdoor
display*. the m1300 is almost the same thing as what they now sell as
their LE 1600 tablet, though the latter has bluetood tech, and a
fingerprint reader. the outdoor display is a *big* deal. w/o it, they
are cheap. the tablet was also barely used, plus I have some
accessories, like the extra keyboard---because I never ended up using
the truemap software. finally, I have two USB GPS receivers. (they
make sense, because a wireless consumes more power.)
alas, I don't need the system any more. I may list it on ebay in a week
or so. if you would like to purchase it, please drop me an email.
not the smartest purchase I ever made...
regards,
/ivo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Who is "Matt Dralle" & What Are "The Lists"? [Please Read] |
Dear Listers,
Who is Matt Dralle and what exactly are these Lists? Well, I've been working in
the information technology industry for over 20 years primarily in computer
networking design and implementation. I have also done extensive work in web
development and CGI design during this period.
I started the Matronics Email Lists back in 1990 with about 30 fellow RV builders
from around the world. Since that time, I have added 63 other kinds of aircraft
related Lists to the line up and numerous other List related services such
as the Forums, Wiki, Archives and Search Engine just to name a few.
For flexibility and reliability, I have chosen to run all of my own servers here
locally. Other List-related systems include a 1 Gigabit, fully switched network
infrastructure, a commercial-grade Netscreen firewall, a Barracuda spam filter,
a local T1 Internet router, and a commercial-grade business T1 Internet
connection with full static addressing.
The computer servers found here include a brand new, quad-processor Xeon Linux
server for List web services, a dual-processor Xeon Linux system dedicated to
the email processing List functions, and another P4 Linux system serving as a
remote storage disk farm for the archives, databases, and for an on-line hard
drive-based backup system with 3.2 Terra Bytes of storage, soon to be upgraded
to over 6 Terra Bytes! This entire system is protected by three large, commercial-grade
uninterrupted power supply (UPS) systems that assure the Lists are
available even during a local power outage! Speaking of power, imagine how much
electricity it takes to run all of these systems. One month this Summer,
I had a staggering $1368 bill for electricity alone!
I recently upgraded all of the computer racking infrastructure including new power
feeds and dedicated air conditioning for the room that serves as the Computer
Center for the Matronics Email Lists. This year I added another rack to house
the new MONSTER quad-processor web system that didn't quite fit into the
first rack! Here's a composite photo of the List Computer Center before the addition
of the second rack:
http://www.matronics.com/MattDralle-ListComputerCenter.jpg
As you can see, I take running these Lists very seriously and I am dedicated to
providing an always-on, 24x7x365 experience for each and every Lister.
But building and running this system isn't cheap. As I've stated before, I don't
support any of these systems with commercial advertising on the Lists. It
is supported 100% through List member Contributions! That means you... and you...
and YOU!
To that end, I hold a List Fund Raiser each November and ask that members make
a small Contribution to support the continued operation and upgrade of this ever-expanding
system. Its solely YOUR Contributions that keeps it running!
Please make a Contribution today to support these Lists!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
USA
(Please include your email address on the check!)
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Dana,
I saw that you got your answer multiple times on the list. The
mechanism isn't as I expected it so I thought I'd expand a bit - the
screws on the outside with safety wire simply hold down the outer ring
which serves as a clamp. The arm and center part of the mechanism
rotate under the holddown ring.
Cut the safety wire, loosen the screws just a little and rotate the arm
as necessary.
Bob #40105
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 8:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Prop gov. question
>
> Doing my final firewall forward wrapup and have this question. I need
to
> reorient the prop gov arm for an RV install. It looks I only need to
go
> one
> hole clockwise. Right to the point. How do I do it? Any gremlins?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Baffle rubber height |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
I have cut my metal baffles to the proper height but I can not find where
the dimension is given for the rubber flex portion. How much should I
leave above the metal portion. How much extra should be present after the
rubber touches the cowling. I've seen some pix of some that had lots of
material such that the rubber was sagging even when the cowl was off.
Just a bit confused and need some help---HELP!
Jim Nelson
RV9-A
(trying to finish the FWF)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lapsley R & Sandra E Caldwell <lrsecaldwell(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Short (Low Profile) Avionics |
I just starting the instrumrent panel for and RV-7. I have laid oit
cutouts for D100 and EMS120. Little space remains for radio stacks.
What are the shortest audio panels, txpdrs, and Nav/Coms?
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffle rubber height |
Jim,
If I remember correctly I started out with four inches on the baffle seals
on my O-360/6A. The seals overlap the metal by about one inch. From there I
adjusted the width of the seals if required to get the best fit to the cowl.
As you have observed you do not want too much seal material so that it hangs
away from the cowl.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 7:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Baffle rubber height
>
> I have cut my metal baffles to the proper height but I can not find where
> the dimension is given for the rubber flex portion. How much should I
> leave above the metal portion. How much extra should be present after the
> rubber touches the cowling. I've seen some pix of some that had lots of
> material such that the rubber was sagging even when the cowl was off.
> Just a bit confused and need some help---HELP!
>
>
> Jim Nelson
> RV9-A
> (trying to finish the FWF)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Short (Low Profile) Avionics |
Roger
Are you a tip up or slider canopy.
On my 7A tip up I cut the ribs at the sub panel and moved them outboard
...as I remember about 3 inches. This will accomadate my Garmin Stack.
Frank @ SGu and SLC....wiring/fiberglass......$$$$$$$$$
>From: Lapsley R & Sandra E Caldwell <lrsecaldwell(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Short (Low Profile) Avionics
>Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 19:35:20 -0500
>
>
>
>I just starting the instrumrent panel for and RV-7. I have laid oit
>cutouts for D100 and EMS120. Little space remains for radio stacks.
>
>What are the shortest audio panels, txpdrs, and Nav/Coms?
>
>Roger
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get FREE company branded e-mail accounts and business Web site from
Microsoft Office Live
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Labelling the trim wheel position ... |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
I have the manual trim in my RV-9 and I was about to label the
panel "Nose-Up/Nose-Down" and realized I've never actually
looked at which way it works.
Is this right ... deflecting the trim tab down, relative to the
plane of the elevator, will force the elevator up thus lowering
the tail, thus raising the nose. In summary - trim tab down,
nose up ? Or is it the reverse ...
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Labelling the trim wheel position ... |
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>I have the manual trim in my RV-9 and I was about to label the
>panel "Nose-Up/Nose-Down" and realized I've never actually
>looked at which way it works.
>
>Is this right ... deflecting the trim tab down, relative to the
>plane of the elevator, will force the elevator up thus lowering
>the tail, thus raising the nose. In summary - trim tab down,
>nose up ?
>
Correct, trim down nose up
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few Days Left; Trailing Last Year... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few more days left of this year's List Fund Raiser! Response
has been very good, but we are behind last year in the number of people that have
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Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser.
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Short (Low Profile) Avionics |
Howdy Roger-
>Little space remains for radio stacks.
>What are the shortest audio panels, txpdrs, and Nav/Coms?
>
>Roger
You might consider Becker face mounted coms and xpdr, as well as a PSE
audio panel. They aren't thin rectangles, but they do take up very little
acreage in a square pattern. The VAL all in one VOR/LOC/GS/MB unit puts
the radio behind the indicator, saving more acreage. You can make a tall,
narrow stack with these, among other configurations. Using these radios
I've been able to build a redundant, IFR panel for my -8 with panel space
left over.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | re: baffle rubber height |
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
I posted this same question on the Vans Airforce forum a few days ago. The
responses I got indicated the seal material should stick up about 1.5
inches upon completion. Im not passing judgement either way, but 1.5
inches is quite a bit different than 4 inches.
Dale, could you tell us how far your seal extended above the baffles
AFTER final trimming? No sense in wasting more material than necessary,
and from what I hear, its not like Van's gives you a surplus to work with.
thanks,
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Short (Low Profile) Avionics |
Roger,
The shortest audio panel is no audio panel at all. I bundled all my
audio sources together, with 100 ohm resistors to prevent backfeeding
them, into the intercom. I control the volume of each at the individual
unit. I also split the com 1 audio to a failsafe headset jack in case
the intercom should fail. I have a switch to determine which com radio
transmits when the PTT is pushed. It works great. I think Van refers to
this setup as the poor man's audio panel.
The SL-30 from Garmin is 1.3" tall, IIRC. It is a very capable Nav/Com
which is supported by the Dynon equipment for HSI display. That would
allow you to get by without a Nav head if you want to save the space and
expense of a
3 1/8" round instrument. The SL-30 allows you to monitor the backup com
frequency which is almost like having a second com. It also displays the
bearing to the backup VOR (if tuned and receiving a signal) so it's
almost like having 2 Navs.
There are several 2 1/4" round transponders available, but the SL-70 has
been discontinued, unfortunately.
Another option would be to remake your panel with the oversize panel
from Van's. It's only about $40.
A note on the Dynons. I don't know if redundancy is important to you,
but if you go with the D-180 and a D100, you would have redundant flight
instruments and could save the space of backup steam gauges.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lapsley R &
Sandra E Caldwell
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 4:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: Short (Low Profile) Avionics
I just starting the instrumrent panel for and RV-7. I have laid oit
cutouts for D100 and EMS120. Little space remains for radio stacks.
What are the shortest audio panels, txpdrs, and Nav/Coms?
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
What is the best way to size the bushing to 1/4" to receive the AN4 bolt
on the RV9 bell crank for the aileron. I think this should be done with
my drill press, however, it is hard to keep the bushing straight, please
let me know what you think and how you did it. Thanks.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
I would use a lathe. There should be someone nearby that would be glad to
help you, does not have to be an airplane builder. Or a machine shop would
not charge much.
Dale
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Fogarty at
Lakes & Leisure Realty
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 1:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Bell Crank Brass Bushing
What is the best way to size the bushing to 1/4" to receive the AN4 bolt on
the RV9 bell crank for the aileron. I think this should be done with my
drill press, however, it is hard to keep the bushing straight, please let me
know what you think and how you did it. Thanks.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
Use a reamer in a hand held drill, with lubricant at very low speed. You
can clamp it in a vise with padded jaws. Reams are available at
Cleaveland, Brown, Avery and machine tool dealers.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Fogarty at
Lakes & Leisure Realty
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 10:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Bell Crank Brass Bushing
What is the best way to size the bushing to 1/4" to receive the AN4 bolt
on the RV9 bell crank for the aileron. I think this should be done with
my drill press, however, it is hard to keep the bushing straight, please
let me know what you think and how you did it. Thanks.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wernerworld" <russ(at)wernerworld.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid Autopilot for sale |
Just posted to Ebay:
Navaid AP-1 Autopilot
Ebay Item number: 150065454154
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wernerworld" <russ(at)wernerworld.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid Autopilot for sale - SOLD |
Sold!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: baffle rubber height |
>
>I posted this same question on the Vans Airforce forum a few days ago. The
>responses I got indicated the seal material should stick up about 1.5
>inches upon completion. Im not passing judgement either way, but 1.5
>inches is quite a bit different than 4 inches.
On my RV-6A, O-360 the baffle material extends up about 1 & 1/8 inch on the
sides and front and 1.5 inches on the back.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: baffle rubber height |
Sorry guys, I can't give you a final after triming dimension as mine is not
the same in all location. 4 inches was the STARTING dimension. As I said,
the rubber seals overlap the metal baffle by about 1 inch which leaves 3
inches. From there I trimed to fit. For example, in the corners near the
firewall I used waxed lacing cord to "sew" the corners together after
forming a curve in the corner of the baffle seals to meet the cowl. Here I
probably used the full three inches remaining. In other places, such as
around the front ramps in the top cowl, they are less then 1.5 inches.I did
do more triming after the flying for a few hours when I could see better how
the seals were seating against the cowl.
You can start out with less than 4 inches. You just have less to play with
in the final fit..
I did use Van's baffle kit and had material remaining when I was finished.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: <Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 12:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: re: baffle rubber height
>
>
> I posted this same question on the Vans Airforce forum a few days ago.
> The
> responses I got indicated the seal material should stick up about 1.5
> inches upon completion. Im not passing judgement either way, but 1.5
> inches is quite a bit different than 4 inches.
>
> Dale, could you tell us how far your seal extended above the baffles
> AFTER final trimming? No sense in wasting more material than necessary,
> and from what I hear, its not like Van's gives you a surplus to work with.
>
> thanks,
>
> Erich Weaver
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BusinessBroker(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: re: baffle rubber height |
In a message dated 11/29/2006 5:08:35 P.M. Central Standard Time,
densing(at)carolina.rr.com writes:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
PLEASE how do I get off your list. Some how, I got registered and continue
to receive. ow do I opt out???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | re: baffle rubber height |
I've done 3 sets of baffles (RV-4, RV-7, RV-10) cut them all 3" wide
with about 1.25" below the baffle top and 1.75" above the baffle top.
If you go much thicker, I can't imagine you'd have enough material.
Van's has it calculated down to the square inch it seems.....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 12:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: re: baffle rubber height
I posted this same question on the Vans Airforce forum a few days ago.
The responses I got indicated the seal material should stick up about
1.5 inches upon completion. Im not passing judgement either way, but
1.5 inches is quite a bit different than 4 inches.
Dale, could you tell us how far your seal extended above the baffles
AFTER final trimming? No sense in wasting more material than
necessary, and from what I hear, its not like Van's gives you a surplus
to work with.
thanks,
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Auto Pilot adjustment |
Hi Listers,
When I installed the servo for my auto pilot (trio), I thought I had
neutralized the stick and the servo. When I activate the unit during flight
the stick is moved to the left more than I would let it go. I realize now
that I need to adjust the rod, but how does one get the stick in a neutral
(as in flight) position? Is this going to be a trial and error situation?
For those that have done this, how is the best way to get the servo
connected. I would like to think I can engage it in level flight with the
heading set to my current heading and it will not try to turn me right away?
I at least think it should not more bank me more than a degree or two for
variation in the heading.
Thanks for any help
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
Hi Jim
I tried using a reamer in my drill press. Mucked it up pretty well. I went
to my riveting buddy who is an amateur machinist. We used the reamer on a
metal lath. Very slick and perfectly round. However, that was sort of
overkill. The bolt really just needs to be down the bushing, fairly centrally.
The actual bearing surface is the outside of the bushing against the inside of
the bellcrank. So, having a perfectly reamed interior is not really crucial.
What is crucial is that you don't scrape up the exterior of the bushing
while trying to hold it still to ream the interior.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Fuselage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
I've used a standard reamer backing it thru the bushing, shaft end first,
then chuck up to something you can turn at hand speed as you back ream the
bushing.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 822hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Last "Official" Day Of The List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
Well, its November 30th and that means three things...
1) Today I am now officially 43 years old... (arg...)
2) It marks that last "official" day of the List Fund Raiser!
3) Its the last day I will be bugging everyone for a whole year! :-)
If you use the Lists and enjoy the content and the no-advertising, no-spam, and
no-censorship way in which they're run, please make a Contribution today to support
their continued operation and upkeep. Your $20 or $30 goes a long way
to further the List operation and keep the bills paid.
I will be posting the List of Contributors next week, so make sure your name is
on it! :-)
Thank you to everyone that has made a Contribution so far this year! It is greatly
appreciated.
List Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Pilot adjustment |
Tim, as I recall if you set the servo arm to the desired position it
will be stick neutral. What I found is that my trio does not work
well with a Bendix GPS (89B). Trio told me there might be a problem
with that gps so took their advice and use the course setting vs. gps.
GPS , in my case causes ap to hunt for the signal which creates a
wandering from left to right, and back. Course setting works
perfectly, and you can adjust 1 degree at a time to allow for wind
diection effect. I have used course settings on 200 mile legs and
made only several adjustments depending on winds.
Dick RV6A
At 10:48 PM 11/29/2006, you wrote:
>
>Hi Listers,
>
>When I installed the servo for my auto pilot (trio), I thought I had
>neutralized the stick and the servo. When I activate the unit during flight
>the stick is moved to the left more than I would let it go. I realize now
>that I need to adjust the rod, but how does one get the stick in a neutral
>(as in flight) position? Is this going to be a trial and error situation?
>For those that have done this, how is the best way to get the servo
>connected. I would like to think I can engage it in level flight with the
>heading set to my current heading and it will not try to turn me right away?
>I at least think it should not more bank me more than a degree or two for
>variation in the heading.
>Thanks for any help
>Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I am thinking of replacing my turn coordinator and Digitrak with a TruTrak
ADI pilot. I love my DigiTrak and have had GREAT service from TruTrak but I
have not spoken to anyone who has actually installed and used the ADI pilot
so I am looking for anyone with real experience.
Thanks
John Furey
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
Umm,
although it sounds like you answered your question Tim here are some
guidelines to rigging.
Set the stick to neutral by having the aircraft in the leveled condition,
and use an analog or digital level to get it straight up on roll axis and,
if I remember right, five degrees top forward in the pitch axis for
RV-6s(look it up or invent it for your aircraft).
Lock it in place.
Put the controls in the neutral condition and lock in place.
Put any bell cranks, including the trio servo, in the neutral condition and
lock in place.
Then adjust all push rods, cables etc. to correctly fit.
If the plane then doesn't fly in level it means the fixed surfaces are not
correct, or that there is a force upsetting the neutral condition of the
control surfaces as in the trailing edge issue with the ailerons or an
unbalanced fuel load causing the ailerons to need to be something other than
neutral to stay level.
But that all said it matters not to your question. If your trio ez pilot
display head is attached anywhere close to square to the aircraft along the
roll axis (level in the panel) it won't care where neutral is. It will just
move the ailerons to where the plane stops turning. As well, if you are
skidding (ball not centered) this will put the plane at an angle to counter
the turning being caused by yaw which is also known as the auto-slip feature
for those few of us with in-cockpit adjustable rudder trim.
However there is a place in the setup to tell it where neutral is by
adjusting it electronically until the ailerons are in the location you
happen to know as causing level flight. (For me this happens to be when the
ailerons are equal with the flaps and wing tips and the fuel load is equal,
and this should be true for most aircraft, at least those that have flaps,
wing tips, ailerons and fuel)
But, from what a little birdie told me the other day, you'ld be amazed at
how many never actually adjust this centered value because the unit works
fine without it being adjusted. I went and set mine to something other than
the default center of 7500 just in case that birdie ever checks to see if I
properly calibrated the unit prior to test flying. (This of course also
takes into account the belief that I wouldn't be believed if I were to say
that my plane is built so hot damn accurately, therefore I don't need no
stinking calibration.)
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
I saw that someone had recommended keeping the fuel tank vent in the wing
root by winding a couple turns of the tubing and exiting the lower
intersection fairing thereby not having to enter the cockpit and do all that
plumbing. Anyone with experience on this???
Thanks
John Furey
RV7 QB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
Hi Jim,
When I did mine (it's been a few years) I initially put
the bushing material in the drill press (hand tighten only.)
I had marked the approximate length with the Sharpie pen.
The drill was run at a slow speed and the Sharpie mark
was visible as it turned. I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off
wheel (one of those with a fiberglass mesh imbedded to keep
the wheel from coming apart. Once this was done I lowered
the bushing onto some emery paper to square and polish the
end.
If the bolt would not fit in the bushing I would use a de-burring tool
to make sure there was no ridge at either end. The bushing was placed
in a padded vise and a reamer was slowly run through the bushing.
I used a reamer on the bellcrank to insure the hole was true
after is was welded and powder-coated. If the bronze bushing
was tight I would put a bolt through the bushing and mount
the bolt in the drill press chuck (hand tighten.) I'd run the
drill a little faster and use some emery paper to as a tool to
remove a bit from the gushing. I could do a trial fit with the
bellcrank
while the bushing was still in the drill press...
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
RV-9A FAB and carb fitting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
On 11/30 12:13, John Furey wrote:
> I saw that someone had recommended keeping the fuel tank vent in the wing
> root by winding a couple turns of the tubing and exiting the lower
> intersection fairing thereby not having to enter the cockpit and do all
> that plumbing. Anyone with experience on this???
I believe this is commonly done on Rockets. You might check that
list if you don't get info here.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
http://www.evorocket.com - Building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Removing white plastic -- any new news? |
Gentlemen;
I've trolled through the archives for ideas how to remove
the white plastic from aluminum. A heat gun works if I
carefully score the plastic in 1" - 2" wide strips with a razor;
heat the skin with a heat gun; and slowly pull the plastic.
I've tried a towel soaked with mineral spirits and applied
overnight. There is a bit of separation around the edges
of the plastic from the aluminum. The plastic is too brittle
to pull up. Yet in one area the plastic cleanly separated from
the aluminum. I can take a new single edge razor and
shave off the plastic but leave fine scratches over the whole
area. The razor is nearly parallel to the to the skin when
I do this. The scratching is minor but I can see and feel it.
(It might be equivalent to the scuffing before painting or a
little deeper.
I haven't pursued the Jasco graffiti remover product - I suspect
it could be pretty messy.
Do you have any newer ideas?
Joe Connell
RV-9A FAB and Carb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hangerq" <gilbey(at)earthlink.net> |
john.i did what you are talking about also a friend did the same in his
6,i have a 6a and he has the 6,we both used three turns or coils in the
wing root,large coils,to just where they will fit inside the root with
fairing covering them,ty them together with nyon tys and secure them to
keep viberation down,drill a hole in the wing fairing and run the drain
out the bottom, no problem with this so far with either of us,ymmv for
whats its worth,
frank goggio rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Torqueing AN-818 flare fittings |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
I've found the torque limits table in AC43.13 for setting the
torque on AN818 flare nuts. There are 2 section one for
aluminum tubing and one for steel.
Lets take the example of the oil lines from the oil cooler to
the engine in the RV-9 firewall forward kit. They supply
aluminum 45 degree pipe-to-flare fittings for the oil cooler
and what I think are steel hoses to connect to the engine.
Where the hose connects to the 45 degree fitting on the oil
cooler should I use the chart for aluminum or steel ?
Similarly my firewall bulkhead fittings for the fuel lines are
aluminum, but the ends of the Stratoflex hoses are steel -
which torque chart governs - the alum or steel ?
(I just know someone is going to say "Change all the alum
fittings for steel ones and use the steel table" :-/)
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Torqueing AN-818 flare fittings |
In my opinion (and practice) you want to torque to the lower of the 2
possible values when you have mixed steel and aluminum. This is because one
of the 2 halves of the nut/fitting has aluminum threads, and you don't want
to overstress them by using steel torque values
Example - steel nuts on Teflon oil lines, aluminum oil cooler thermostat:
http://brian76.mystarband.net/engineOct06.htm#oct31
brian
RV-7A working on Eggenfellner engine & related components
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 2:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Torqueing AN-818 flare fittings
I've found the torque limits table in AC43.13 for setting the
torque on AN818 flare nuts. There are 2 section one for
aluminum tubing and one for steel.
Lets take the example of the oil lines from the oil cooler to
the engine in the RV-9 firewall forward kit. They supply
aluminum 45 degree pipe-to-flare fittings for the oil cooler
and what I think are steel hoses to connect to the engine.
Where the hose connects to the 45 degree fitting on the oil
cooler should I use the chart for aluminum or steel ?
Similarly my firewall bulkhead fittings for the fuel lines are
aluminum, but the ends of the Stratoflex hoses are steel -
which torque chart governs - the alum or steel ?
(I just know someone is going to say "Change all the alum
fittings for steel ones and use the steel table" :-/)
__g__
=========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
--
5:07 AM
--
5:07 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
I probably shouldn't admit this but I just used a hand drill to ream out the bushing.
And I held it with a pair of pliars after wrapping it with a cloth. I don't
think I got it perfectly centered.. it took a little work to get the bolt
to slip in nicely. And afterwards I cleaned up the outside by running it on the
Scotchbrite Wheel (fine). I'm sure the ways suggested would yield a perfect
result, but I've seen nothing in the operation of the bellcrank as installed
to indicate I've created any sort of problem doing it via the fast method. Of
course, the plane isn't flying yet.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
http://home.comcast.net/~rvnewsletter/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78236#78236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brad Oliver <brad(at)rv7factory.com> |
| Subject: | Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
I haven't done this yet, so I should probably just keep my head down and
my mouth shut, but it is a slow day at work. ;-) Here is what I am
*thinking* of doing when the time comes, which should be very soon. It
may seem convoluted, but it should only take a few minutes. Please,
somebody tell me I am crazy, or shoot holes in my proposed method. ;-)
1. On the the drill press, drill a small (3" square or so) scrap piece
of wood with drill bit that is equal to or slightly smaller than the OD
of the bushing. If you have a drill press vise, this step may not be
necessary.
2. Cut the wood in half bisecting the circle you just drilled
3. Insert bushing between pieces of wood and clamp (in drilled hole).
Cutting the wood in half should have removed enough material to allow
you to clamp the bushing so it won't move, if not, sand away some of
the wood along where you just cut to allow it to clamp the bushing.
4. Locate a drill bit that is equal to the ID of the bushing, and insert
it into the drill press (hopefully it is a common size).
5. Put the clamped bushing assembly onto drill press table and crank
down the bit (while drill press is off) into the bushing to center the
clamped bushing assembly on the drill bit, then while the bit is
holding the assembly centered, clamp the the assembly to the table.
6. Release the handle and remove the bit, then insert the appropriate
reamer and ream away. Theoretically, the reamer should be centered
perfectly (I hope).
If someone is brave enough to try this before I get to it, please let me
know how it works out. :-)
Cheers,
Brad Oliver
RV-7 | Livermore, CA
www.RV7Factory.com
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: RV-List: Bell Crank Brass Bushing
> From: "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty(at)tds.net>
> Date: Wed, November 29, 2006 10:25 am
> To:
>
>
> What is the best way to size the bushing to 1/4" to receive the AN4 bolt on the
RV9 bell crank for the aileron. I think this should be done with my drill
press, however, it is hard to keep the bushing straight, please let me know what
you think and how you did it. Thanks.
>
> Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
It is worth getting this right - because you follow a very
similar process in the fuselage kit for the control stick
bushing. I goofed mine up trying to use a regular drill bit in
drill press. The upshot is that my control stick wobbles
around like a p**** in a bucket. Needless to say I'll be
re-doing the bushing shortly.
I think the idea behind the reamer in an hand drill is that the
existing hole in the bushing will "guide" the reamer into a
coaxial position, I think :)
g
>
>
> I probably shouldn't admit this but I just used a hand drill to
> ream out the bushing. And I held it with a pair of pliars after
> wrapping it with a cloth. I don't think I got it perfectly
> centered.. it took a little work to get the bolt to slip in
> nicely. And afterwards I cleaned up the outside by running it
> on the Scotchbrite Wheel (fine). I'm sure the ways suggested
> would yield a perfect result, but I've seen nothing in the
> operation of the bellcrank as installed to indicate I've
> created any sort of problem doing it via the fast method. Of
> course, the plane isn't flying yet.
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
> http://home.comcast.net/~rvnewsletter/
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78236#78236
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
Hi Wheeler,
Thanks for the comments. I found in the Trio manual where I could adjust it
on the ground and then fine tune it in flight. That would be most
beneficial. Part of my problem is I do still have a heavy left wing and
according to Van's I should not fix it until after I have had somebody in
the right seat. I have yet to fly off my 40 hours and so can't do that yet.
I would be reluctant to squeeze my aileron until I have added weight in the
right seat with equal fuel. I ferried my plane from Oregon to Texas and
would have really enjoyed having the auto pilot working.
I was trying to think ahead on this deal and out thought myself I think. I
couldn't wrap my mind around how I was going to duplicate the stick position
once on the ground, but didn't realize (or remember) that I could fine
adjust within the setup of the Trio.
Thanks again for the input, appreciated
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:10 AM
> To: 'rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: stick rigging
>
>
> Umm,
>
> although it sounds like you answered your question Tim here are some
> guidelines to rigging.
>
> Set the stick to neutral by having the aircraft in the leveled condition,
> and use an analog or digital level to get it straight up on roll axis and,
> if I remember right, five degrees top forward in the pitch axis for
> RV-6s(look it up or invent it for your aircraft).
>
> Lock it in place.
>
> Put the controls in the neutral condition and lock in place.
>
> Put any bell cranks, including the trio servo, in the neutral condition
> and
> lock in place.
>
> Then adjust all push rods, cables etc. to correctly fit.
>
> If the plane then doesn't fly in level it means the fixed surfaces are not
> correct, or that there is a force upsetting the neutral condition of the
> control surfaces as in the trailing edge issue with the ailerons or an
> unbalanced fuel load causing the ailerons to need to be something other
> than
> neutral to stay level.
>
> But that all said it matters not to your question. If your trio ez pilot
> display head is attached anywhere close to square to the aircraft along
> the
> roll axis (level in the panel) it won't care where neutral is. It will
> just
> move the ailerons to where the plane stops turning. As well, if you are
> skidding (ball not centered) this will put the plane at an angle to
> counter
> the turning being caused by yaw which is also known as the auto-slip
> feature
> for those few of us with in-cockpit adjustable rudder trim.
>
> However there is a place in the setup to tell it where neutral is by
> adjusting it electronically until the ailerons are in the location you
> happen to know as causing level flight. (For me this happens to be when
> the
> ailerons are equal with the flaps and wing tips and the fuel load is
> equal,
> and this should be true for most aircraft, at least those that have flaps,
> wing tips, ailerons and fuel)
>
> But, from what a little birdie told me the other day, you'ld be amazed at
> how many never actually adjust this centered value because the unit works
> fine without it being adjusted. I went and set mine to something other
> than
> the default center of 7500 just in case that birdie ever checks to see if
> I
> properly calibrated the unit prior to test flying. (This of course also
> takes into account the belief that I wouldn't be believed if I were to say
> that my plane is built so hot damn accurately, therefore I don't need no
> stinking calibration.)
>
> W
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
In making a change in the design of the vent as described, I wonder if
that would be an issue with insurance coverage or with a future buyer of
the plane if it came to be a problem contributor and it wasn't disclosed
beforehand? I just did not see the present design being a problem
with installing it per the plans and the revision does not appear to
improve the performance, so what is the purpose of changing Van's
design?
----- Original Message -----
From: hangerq
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vents
john.i did what you are talking about also a friend did the same in
his 6,i have a 6a and he has the 6,we both used three turns or coils in
the wing root,large coils,to just where they will fit inside the root
with fairing covering them,ty them together with nyon tys and secure
them to keep viberation down,drill a hole in the wing fairing and run
the drain out the bottom, no problem with this so far with either of
us,ymmv for whats its worth,
frank goggio rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
Sure, but I guess my point is, what is right? Like I said, I did it a quick way
at the time -- I didn't have a drill press, nor a set of reamers -- and it came
out OK and the control stick bushings came out the same way. As near as I can
tell, there's no binding that's occurring, the bolt fits in snugly, but fits
and everything seems OK. I'd certainly be interested in how others - especially
old-timers - have approached this part.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
http://rvhotline.expercraft.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78267#78267
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <jmsears(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
>> Sure, but I guess my point is, what is right? Like I said, I did it a
>> quick way at the time -- I didn't have a drill press, nor a set of
>> reamers -- and it came out OK and the control stick bushings came out the
>> same way. As near as I can tell, there's no binding that's occurring, the
>> bolt fits in snugly, but fits and everything seems OK. I'd certainly be
>> interested in how others - especially old-timers - have approached this
>> part.<<
I didn't have a lathe or reamers, either. I put mine in a vice, started
with a bit that just barely cut metal, and increased bits in size by a
little on each drill pass until the hole was just big enough for the bolt to
pass through nicely. My process took several passes per bushing. I also
drilled out the weldment to allow the bushing to fit inside that. So far,
I've done this on three RVs with no problems.
Now, to add another twist, so to speak. My IA buddy told me the preferred
method for the bushing is to make the bushing stationary in the weldment and
allow the assembly to rotate around the bolt. That way, the bolt wears out
instead of the weldment. That's what I did in my first RV. I did the more
popular method of letting the bushing rotate in the last two. Which is
better, I have no idea. It will probably take more than my lifetime to
prove either out. Both work smoothly; and, I guess that's the main thing.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Fuselage on hold due to pure laziness.)
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: stick rigging |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 4:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: stick rigging
>
> Hi Wheeler,
>
> SNIP Part of my problem is I do still have a heavy left wing and
> according to Van's I should not fix it until after I have had somebody in
> the right seat. I have yet to fly off my 40 hours and so can't do that
> yet.
SNIP>
> Thanks again for the input, appreciated
> Tim
>
Tim, while in the 40 hour flight testing you could securely strap in a
couple or three 60 lb. bags of sand in the co-pilot seat. You can use the
sand later in the baggage area to test that dimension for max. gross weight.
It is common to have a heavy left wing. It should go away as you burn fuel
from the left wing and it becomes lighter. If you do squeeze the aileron
after trying all the other things first, do the squeezing ever so lightly
and test fly it over and over squeezing, flying, squeezing, flying, etc. It
is easy to over do the squeeze and have a heavy right wing. The perfect
balance is ever so delicate. Larry in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
Once the policy is written, you're covered as long as you didn't
intentionally misrepresent your aircraft. There are variations from
Van's standards on every aircraft, whether the variations are gross
weight limits, an extra rivet here or there, or (heaven forbid) another
solution to the fuel vent installation.
As far as liability goes, as the builder, you have the risk of being
sued if the airplane ever crashes, regardless of whether the airplane
was built exactly to plan or not.
As long as the system works, and it is up to the builder to determine if
it works, the liability and insurance problems are no better or worse
than with any other RV.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: LarryRobertHelming
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vents
In making a change in the design of the vent as described, I wonder if
that would be an issue with insurance coverage or with a future buyer of
the plane if it came to be a problem contributor and it wasn't disclosed
beforehand? I just did not see the present design being a problem
with installing it per the plans and the revision does not appear to
improve the performance, so what is the purpose of changing Van's
design?
----- Original Message -----
From: hangerq
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vents
john.i did what you are talking about also a friend did the same in
his 6,i have a 6a and he has the 6,we both used three turns or coils in
the wing root,large coils,to just where they will fit inside the root
with fairing covering them,ty them together with nyon tys and secure
them to keep viberation down,drill a hole in the wing fairing and run
the drain out the bottom, no problem with this so far with either of
us,ymmv for whats its worth,
frank goggio rv6a
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Hoover <hooverra(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
Brad,
I have used your method many times prior to owning a lathe with one
variation. Make the block longer about 4 x 1.5 x 3/4, cut the slot first
and then clamp the slot closed. Now drill your hole = to the bushing OD,
now when you un-clamp the block the bushing will fit and can be clamped
tight. If the saw kerf is too wide just clamp it partially closed
prior to drilling (a piece of thin cardboard helps). Now proceed as you
describe.
Good luck.
Ralph Hoover
RV7A (wiring)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
Well, if it works then it works. My question would be how to keep fuel out
of the vent line. With the stock design, if you bank steep or do aerobatics
will fuel enter the vent and then run back to the tank because of the height
in the vent? With coils could you get fuel in the coil and have it not run
back thereby blocking the vent? Just a question, but sounds like a
reasonable thing to do. Fuel inside is almost unavoidable with the valve
design.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of hangerq
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel vents
john.i did what you are talking about also a friend did the same in his 6,i
have a 6a and he has the 6,we both used three turns or coils in the wing
root,large coils,to just where they will fit inside the root with fairing
covering them,ty them together with nyon tys and secure them to keep
viberation down,drill a hole in the wing fairing and run the drain out the
bottom, no problem with this so far with either of us,ymmv for whats its
worth,
frank goggio rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Ellis <rv8builder(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
I too, used a hand drill to ream out the bushings. Except, I hand held the bushing
while wearing a leather glove. The bushings ended up looking decent considering
the crude method!
Dale Ellis, building a RV-8 and 2 bids, one check-ride and 91 days from retirement
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Collins <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Nov 30, 2006 3:13 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing
>
>
>I probably shouldn't admit this but I just used a hand drill to ream out the bushing.
And I held it with a pair of pliars after wrapping it with a cloth. I
don't think I got it perfectly centered.. it took a little work to get the bolt
to slip in nicely. And afterwards I cleaned up the outside by running it on
the Scotchbrite Wheel (fine). I'm sure the ways suggested would yield a perfect
result, but I've seen nothing in the operation of the bellcrank as installed
to indicate I've created any sort of problem doing it via the fast method.
Of course, the plane isn't flying yet.
>
>--------
>Bob Collins
>St. Paul, Minn.
>RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
>http://home.comcast.net/~rvnewsletter/
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78236#78236
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glaesers" <glaesers(at)wideopenwest.com> |
Remember that the engine is (hopefully) constantly drawing fuel from the
tank, and the air to replace the fuel comes in through the vent. So as long
as the engine is running, there is a constant flow of air into the tank
through the vent.
Fuel doesn't flow out the vent from the unused tank even during maneuvers
because it is (again, hopefully) sealed and there is no air coming in to
allow the fuel to flow out the vent - similar to dipping a tube into liquid,
then holding your finger over the end and pulling it out.
Fuel can not 'block' the vent, it just flows in or out depending on the
relative pressure inside the tank vs. outside air pressure. The loops in
the Rocket style vent are there so that, under normal circumstances, there
is not enough fuel in the line to over-fill it, and spill fuel overboard.
Dennis Glaeser
RV-7A - wiring my panel, waiting for my Eggenfeller H6 - wings have the
Rocket style vents installed.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------
From: Tim Bryan (n616tb(at)btsapps.com)
Well, if it works then it works. My question would be how to keep fuel out
of the vent line. With the stock design, if you bank steep or do aerobatics
will fuel enter the vent and then run back to the tank because of the height
in the vent? With coils could you get fuel in the coil and have it not run
back thereby blocking the vent? Just a question, but sounds like a
reasonable thing to do. Fuel inside is almost unavoidable with the valve
design.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing white plastic -- any new news? |
After soaking in meneral spirits overnight I still had to use a plastic
spatula in some areas.
The mineral spirits makes the difference between impossible, and
feasible to scrape it off.
If you scrape some strips then soak again overnight the mineral spirits
has a better chance of getting under the plastic.
Finn
Joe & Jan Connell wrote:
> Gentlemen;
>
> I've trolled through the archives for ideas how to remove
> the white plastic from aluminum. A heat gun works if I
> carefully score the plastic in 1" - 2" wide strips with a razor;
> heat the skin with a heat gun; and slowly pull the plastic.
>
> I've tried a towel soaked with mineral spirits and applied
> overnight. There is a bit of separation around the edges
> of the plastic from the aluminum. The plastic is too brittle
> to pull up. Yet in one area the plastic cleanly separated from
> the aluminum. I can take a new single edge razor and
> shave off the plastic but leave fine scratches over the whole
> area. The razor is nearly parallel to the to the skin when
> I do this. The scratching is minor but I can see and feel it.
> (It might be equivalent to the scuffing before painting or a
> little deeper.
>
> I haven't pursued the Jasco graffiti remover product - I suspect
> it could be pretty messy.
>
> Do you have any newer ideas?
>
> Joe Connell
> RV-9A FAB and Carb
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Gray" <rickgray(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Fuel vents |
Yo' Crossfire,
This is the vent line you're talking about....Randy Planzer did this on
his F1 Rocket....pic from his site:
http://tinyurl.com/yj3v5d
Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/
----- Original Message -----
From: glaesers
To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Fuel vents
Remember that the engine is (hopefully) constantly drawing fuel from
the
tank, and the air to replace the fuel comes in through the vent. So
as long
as the engine is running, there is a constant flow of air into the
tank
through the vent.
Fuel doesn't flow out the vent from the unused tank even during
maneuvers
because it is (again, hopefully) sealed and there is no air coming in
to
allow the fuel to flow out the vent - similar to dipping a tube into
liquid,
then holding your finger over the end and pulling it out.
Fuel can not 'block' the vent, it just flows in or out depending on
the
relative pressure inside the tank vs. outside air pressure. The loops
in
the Rocket style vent are there so that, under normal circumstances,
there
is not enough fuel in the line to over-fill it, and spill fuel
overboard.
Dennis Glaeser
RV-7A - wiring my panel, waiting for my Eggenfeller H6 - wings have
the
Rocket style vents installed.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
-----------------------
From: Tim Bryan (n616tb(at)btsapps.com)
Well, if it works then it works. My question would be how to keep
fuel out
of the vent line. With the stock design, if you bank steep or do
aerobatics
will fuel enter the vent and then run back to the tank because of the
height
in the vent? With coils could you get fuel in the coil and have it
not run
back thereby blocking the vent? Just a question, but sounds like a
reasonable thing to do. Fuel inside is almost unavoidable with the
valve
design.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Fuel vents |
Rick, That looks like a great idea! I have had problems on hot days with
the vents on my RV6-A spitting fuel. Wonder if the loops of line in the
wing root area would allow more expansion before starting to
spit....spit?
Tom in Ohio (10G)
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Gray
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Fuel vents
Yo' Crossfire,
This is the vent line you're talking about....Randy Planzer did this
on his F1 Rocket....pic from his site:
http://tinyurl.com/yj3v5d
Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/
----- Original Message -----
From: glaesers
To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Fuel vents
Remember that the engine is (hopefully) constantly drawing fuel from
the
tank, and the air to replace the fuel comes in through the vent. So
as long
as the engine is running, there is a constant flow of air into the
tank
through the vent.
Fuel doesn't flow out the vent from the unused tank even during
maneuvers
because it is (again, hopefully) sealed and there is no air coming
in to
allow the fuel to flow out the vent - similar to dipping a tube into
liquid,
then holding your finger over the end and pulling it out.
Fuel can not 'block' the vent, it just flows in or out depending on
the
relative pressure inside the tank vs. outside air pressure. The
loops in
the Rocket style vent are there so that, under normal circumstances,
there
is not enough fuel in the line to over-fill it, and spill fuel
overboard.
Dennis Glaeser
RV-7A - wiring my panel, waiting for my Eggenfeller H6 - wings have
the
Rocket style vents installed.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
-----------------------
From: Tim Bryan (n616tb(at)btsapps.com)
Well, if it works then it works. My question would be how to keep
fuel out
of the vent line. With the stock design, if you bank steep or do
aerobatics
will fuel enter the vent and then run back to the tank because of
the height
in the vent? With coils could you get fuel in the coil and have it
not run
back thereby blocking the vent? Just a question, but sounds like a
reasonable thing to do. Fuel inside is almost unavoidable with the
-- Please Support Your Lists This Month (And Get the Annual link Free *
AeroElectric http://www.matronics.com/c Thank you for your generous bsp;
-Matt Dralle, List nbsp; Navigator
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | bell crank bushing ailerons |
Thanks for all the great advise on my question on the bell crank brass
bushing. I did get the first one that I reamed out with the 1/4" bit on
my drill press to work just fine. I used two plastic blocks in the
drill press vise to hold the bushing so I would not damage the shaft.
Time will tell if I go to a machine shop to do the second bushing or
just use Brad's method on the drill press after drilling and forming my
plastic blocks.
Hey, thanks for all your help. It would be nice if the bushing came
from Van's ready for the 1/4" bolt, but this is all about learning the
building process and understanding all the parts in the plane.
Jim Fogarty
RV9a Breezy Point, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
I saw this under $100 12 volt back-up monitor for cars at Costco that might
work for filling in the blind spot when taxiing a tail wheel aircraft. The
link is to the product at WallMart. I saw it at Costco for $90 ($89.99 in
Costco language). http://tinyurl.com/yz5wqu
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
John,
We have the ADI and Pictoral Pilot (AP) installed.
Very pleased with the performance and Trutrak's support.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: ADI Pilot
>Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 12:08:25 -0500
>
>I am thinking of replacing my turn coordinator and Digitrak with a TruTrak
>ADI pilot. I love my DigiTrak and have had GREAT service from TruTrak but I
>have not spoken to anyone who has actually installed and used the ADI pilot
>so I am looking for anyone with real experience.
>Thanks
>John Furey
>RV6A
_________________________________________________________________
Stay up-to-date with your friends through the Windows Live Spaces friends
list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
Paul, you surprise me. This caught my attention because of the dead-serious
discussion after the RV-6 and its passenger were chopped up (the passenger
died) at Oshkosh this year by a warbird where the pilot of the warbird was
unaware that the RV-6 was in front of him. There was a discussion of how to
implement a video camera to cover the blind spot. This seemed to me to be a
useful addition to that discussion. I'm sure you will now agree this is a
long ways from an attempt to be funny.
Terry
Uhh......I sure hope someone who is taxiing a tailwheel airplane (or any
airplane for that matter) isn't looking at a tv monitor! Maybe this is a
joke?
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bell crank bushing ailerons |
I used a piece of split hose to hold the bushing and put the thing in a
vice and hold it. Sprayed inside with some silicone and ran a 1/4"
drill bit through it from a hand held drill a couple of times. Blew it
out with compressed air, shot it with some spray silicone and it has
worked fine. Larry in Indiana
Subject: RV-List: bell crank bushing ailerons
Thanks for all the great advise on my question on the bell crank brass
bushing. I did get the first one that I reamed out with the 1/4" bit on
my drill press to work just fine. I used two plastic blocks in the
drill press vise to hold the bushing so I would not damage the shaft.
Time will tell if I go to a machine shop to do the second bushing or
just use Brad's method on the drill press after drilling and forming my
plastic blocks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
Point well taken Jeff. None the less however, is this point -- I would
like to of been the RV6 that ALMOST got run over at Oshkosh but I got out of
the way of the guy who was following too close because I had the camera
pointed to the rear. Anyone know if a recorder can be hooked up to the
camera.
Larry in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
>
> I disagree with this and agree with Paul. Having anther cockpit gizmo,
> keeping one's attention inside in the cockpit instead of where it should
> be, will cause more ground mishaps, not fewer.
>
> Jeff >>
>> Something like this could have prevented the tragic accident at OSH this
>> summer.
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wasn't it revealed that the Avenger pilot wasn't doing
S-turns that would have given him forward visibility?
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV Builder's Hotline (free!)
http://rvhotline.expercraft.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78523#78523
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Bell Crank Brass Bushing |
To ream out the inside of the brass bushings , Insert the
reamer backwards through the bushing , then insert the reamer in the drill
chuck, pull the reamer through the bushing backwards.
I probably shouldn't admit this but I just used a hand drill to ream out the bushing.
And I held it with a pair of pliars after wrapping it with a cloth. I don't
think I got it perfectly centered.. it took a little work to get the bolt
to slip in nicely. And afterwards I cleaned up the outside by running it on the
Scotchbrite Wheel (fine). I'm sure the ways suggested would yield a perfect
result, but I've seen nothing in the operation of the bellcrank as installed
to indicate I've created any sort of problem doing it via the fast method. Of
course, the plane isn't flying yet.
--------
Bob Collins
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | SA tube bending article |
A year or two ago there was a nice article in Sport Aviation on how to
properly use a lever-type tubing bender. Anyone know which issue this was
in or would possibly have a pdf copy?
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
On 16:43 2006-12-01 Jerry Springer wrote:
> I just believe a simple system to see the blind spots would be
> beneficial. Maybe some type of proximity sensor with a warning sound
> would work as well.
What's wrong with S-turning on the taxiway in the first place? Unless the
taxiway is so narrow that your wheels are each running on their respective
edges of the pavement, there's always room to S-turn. And in an RV, even
an RV with a steerable tailwheel, it's soooo easy to do.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
Fine, everybody S turn. :-) Close to 20 years I have been flying with
RV's, I see very few of them do S turns.
Also trying to be as understanding as possible here I don't understand
how someone can let a large aircraft get so close behind them
as to chew up their aircraft but as we know it happens.
Jerry
do not arhcive
Rob Prior wrote:
>
>On 16:43 2006-12-01 Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
>>I just believe a simple system to see the blind spots would be
>>beneficial. Maybe some type of proximity sensor with a warning sound
>>would work as well.
>>
>>
>
>What's wrong with S-turning on the taxiway in the first place? Unless the
>taxiway is so narrow that your wheels are each running on their respective
>edges of the pavement, there's always room to S-turn. And in an RV, even
>an RV with a steerable tailwheel, it's soooo easy to do.
>
>-Rob
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Chase needed for 1st flight of RV-8 at FTG this Sunday |
| From: | "Puckett, Gregory [DENTK]" <Greg.Puckett(at)united.com> |
Hello everyone,
I'm finally ready to fly my RV-8 from Front Range Airport on the next very low
wind/good weather day. That day could be this coming Sunday if the forecast is
correct and the light flurries forecast for Saturday turn out to be just that
and the runways are dry Sunday.
My current plan for the first flight is to fly three or so closed traffic patterns
over the airport and if all engine indications, control responses, ... are
acceptable, fly east to the closest emergency landing airport available that
will allow a high enough altitude to comfortably perform some slow flight with
flaps and perform airspeed indicator/installation error validation at approach
speed before the return to landing at FTG. Ideally I'd have someone flying chase
for the departure from the airport portion on this flight to visually inspect
for any leaking fluids and to give a quick comparison of our airspeed indicators
at approach speed.
Anyone on the list available/willing to perform this?
I'd feel comfortable validating the airspeed indications using just the GPS ground
speed in the pattern if I know the wind is very low but the chase with a little
slow flight would be my first choice.
Please let me know off list.
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
N881GP
p.s. I can't say enough about how worthwhile the transition training I experienced
with Mike Seager this week was. It was worth every penny and then some.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chase needed for 1st flight of RV-8 at FTG this Sunday |
On 1 Dec 2006, at 20:41, Puckett, Gregory [DENTK] wrote:
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm finally ready to fly my RV-8 from Front Range Airport on the
> next very low wind/good weather day. That day could be this coming
> Sunday if the forecast is correct and the light flurries forecast
> for Saturday turn out to be just that and the runways are dry Sunday.
>
> My current plan for the first flight is to fly three or so closed
> traffic patterns over the airport and if all engine indications,
> control responses, ... are acceptable, fly east to the closest
> emergency landing airport available that will allow a high enough
> altitude to comfortably perform some slow flight with flaps and
> perform airspeed indicator/installation error validation at
> approach speed before the return to landing at FTG. Ideally I'd
> have someone flying chase for the departure from the airport
> portion on this flight to visually inspect for any leaking fluids
> and to give a quick comparison of our airspeed indicators at
> approach speed.
>
> Anyone on the list available/willing to perform this?
>
> I'd feel comfortable validating the airspeed indications using just
> the GPS ground speed in the pattern if I know the wind is very low
> but the chase with a little slow flight would be my first choice.
Be careful out there. There is nothing wrong with a chase aircraft,
if both pilots are experienced formation pilots, and the chase pilot
fully understands his duties, and how to be sure he is always in a
safe place. But, if you are missing one of those things having a
chase aircraft may increase the risk of an accident. Mid air
collisions are bad news.
I'm not sure what you believe you are gaining by having chase check
your airspeed. Are you worried about being closer to the stall than
you think you are? Knowing how accurate your airspeed is only helps
you if you also know what your stall speed is. But, if you do a slow
flight exercise at a known IAS, add a suitable margin for your
approach speed, do a simulated approach and flare at altitude, then
you have covered off the airspeed accuracy issue. Also, how do you
know your chase aircraft has an accurate airspeed indication. I'll
bet you there are a bunch of RVs flying with 10 kt airspeed errors,
and the pilots don't know it.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
I just installed one on my pick up. If I had spent the $98 a month ago it
would have saved me more that that. The small blind spot behind the truck
counseled a small car. The hole that I punched in the small cars front
bumper with the trailer hitch, when I backed up cost me $765. The monitor
is mounted eye level with the left rear view mirror and is part of my scan
when I back up now. Having a camera looking into a blind spot no matter how
small could save more than a few dollars. I see no problem with having
someway of checking directly in front of the plane just before taxing.
There might be a tie down rope laying there that you forgot about, sucking
that into the prop might give you a bad day.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9 N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
I agree. I might be able to buy the argument for a camera, but not in an
RV. I can't imagine another airplane that I couldn't see from inside my
RV-7.
Phil
On Dec 1, 2006, at 7:57 PM, Paul Besing wrote:
Sorry, but I just can't see it...especially in an RV. The visibility is
pretty darn good in any tailwheel RV. The blind spot is very small
actually. Unlike alot of tailwheel airplanes, you can almsot see over the
nose on a tailwheel RV.
Paul Besing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
Wow-
Move over primer!
Let me just say that the fellow who flew the H-1 replica said the fwd vis
unit installed on that plane was a godsend. Unfortunately, it couldn't
keep the engine running-
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Porter" <december29(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
Glen,
I LOVE IT!!! Move over primer, ha ha. I say weigh the benefits, think
about it, and use it if it makes sense. These are experimental right? (
that said, I'm built straight to plans). Since I'm the slowest -8 builder,
I feel qualified to comment. This list has SO much good stuff on it, I
really appreciate everyone's expertise. But over like the last two years it
has become a vent for some, to really lay others low. I don't know why that
is?
All I know is we all selected a great airframe. If a guy wants to fly it
on floats, or to Alaska, or over the in-laws to prove something, or at
night, or in the weather, or upside down, it's okay................jeesh.
I've spent my entire life in aviation. I love flying airplanes for
whatever reason, (I think I know mine). I don't know why others fly, but
if they get the same joy I get from hanging around the airport, flying in
the sun, talking about women and perfecting their craft then in the words of
"Stripes" (an epic film worthy of an Oscar, ha,ha), "Lighten up, Francis".
Flames are for afterburners. Thankfully, Van didn't listen to people who
said building his own airplane was stupid...........
My two cents,
John
#80002
----- Original Message -----
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 9:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots
>
> Wow-
>
> Move over primer!
>
> Let me just say that the fellow who flew the H-1 replica said the fwd vis
> unit installed on that plane was a godsend. Unfortunately, it couldn't
> keep the engine running-
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
| Subject: | Long legged passenger |
One of long legged buddies asked me if he was going to fit in my RV when I
get it built. Since I haven't gotten that far yet I didn't know what to tell
him. How "adjustable" are the seats and/or rudder pedals?
Thanks!
Smitty
http://SmittysRV.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
I understand where Paul is coming from, a camera
and monitor in the cockpit of a RV is gimmicky and not
needed. RV's have good fwd vis if you sit high and
pay attention.
I know its easy to take an emotional stand to justify
putting cameras in a RV from the accident, but lets
face it a TBM is a BIG PLANE and could have avoided
hitting the RV with proper technique (meaning leaving
a large gap so they could see the little plane.) WE
HAVE the pilot aility to fly and taxi safely with out a
camera. Camera adds weight and no doubt drag, not
thanks but its fun to think about but not practical or
needed. George RV-4/RV-7
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Settle <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Hanging Elevators |
Gentlemen,
I'm doing the initial fit of the elevators to the horizontal on my -8. The instructions
say to ensure the elevators swing freely with no interference... Both
elevators' counterbalance arms extend forward into the horizontal skins 15/16"
and I cannot figure out why. I have rechecked the rod bearing centerline
measurement to the spar and have exactly 13/16" as per the plans. I saw on Dan's
site that he had to trim the right skin to allow the right elevator to swing,
so I am tempted to do the same. However, I'm concerned that if mine are
too far forward that I won't be able to get the elevators to balance. Any insight
would be appreciated.
Bill Settle
Winston-Salem, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Settle <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanging Elevators |
Please disregard this... I think I found the answer on dwg 3. Thanks anyway.
Bill Settle.
>
> From: Bill Settle <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net>
> Date: 2006/12/02 Sat PM 03:56:14 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Hanging Elevators
>
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I'm doing the initial fit of the elevators to the horizontal on my -8. The instructions
say to ensure the elevators swing freely with no interference...
Both elevators' counterbalance arms extend forward into the horizontal skins 15/16"
and I cannot figure out why. I have rechecked the rod bearing centerline
measurement to the spar and have exactly 13/16" as per the plans. I saw on
Dan's site that he had to trim the right skin to allow the right elevator to
swing, so I am tempted to do the same. However, I'm concerned that if mine are
too far forward that I won't be able to get the elevators to balance. Any insight
would be appreciated.
>
> Bill Settle
> Winston-Salem, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
Hi Listers,
I have mentioned about my high CHT's and got lots of replies. I am working
on the front area around the inlets and upper ramps based on those replies.
However, I found something else to be addressed. At the back side of
cylinder #3 right next to the case where the back baffle is. There is a
hole that goes straight down not where the fins are but where the #3
cylinder is bolted to the case. It looks like there is a tab on the bottom
of the rear baffle metal that was to be bent up. I can't bend this now
because it contacts the case and much work to remove the whole thing for
trimming.
There is another hole on the other side next to cylinder #2. It looks like
it might be too big to just use silicone in there, what are other options?
What have others done in this area?
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6
0-360 A1A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Gray" <rickgray(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Fuel vents |
I dunno but I'm planning on trying it!
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Fuel vents
Rick, That looks like a great idea! I have had problems on hot days
with the vents on my RV6-A spitting fuel. Wonder if the loops of line in
the wing root area would allow more expansion before starting to
spit....spit?
Tom in Ohio (10G)
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Gray
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2006 7:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Fuel vents
Yo' Crossfire,
This is the vent line you're talking about....Randy Planzer did this
on his F1 Rocket....pic from his site:
http://tinyurl.com/yj3v5d
Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/
----- Original Message -----
From: glaesers
To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Fuel vents
Remember that the engine is (hopefully) constantly drawing fuel
from the
tank, and the air to replace the fuel comes in through the vent.
So as long
as the engine is running, there is a constant flow of air into the
tank
through the vent.
Fuel doesn't flow out the vent from the unused tank even during
maneuvers
because it is (again, hopefully) sealed and there is no air coming
in to
allow the fuel to flow out the vent - similar to dipping a tube
into liquid,
then holding your finger over the end and pulling it out.
Fuel can not 'block' the vent, it just flows in or out depending
on the
relative pressure inside the tank vs. outside air pressure. The
loops in
the Rocket style vent are there so that, under normal
circumstances, there
is not enough fuel in the line to over-fill it, and spill fuel
overboard.
Dennis Glaeser
RV-7A - wiring my panel, waiting for my Eggenfeller H6 - wings
have the
Rocket style vents installed.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
-----------------------
From: Tim Bryan (n616tb(at)btsapps.com)
Well, if it works then it works. My question would be how to keep
fuel out
of the vent line. With the stock design, if you bank steep or do
aerobatics
will fuel enter the vent and then run back to the tank because of
the height
in the vent? With coils could you get fuel in the coil and have
it not run
back thereby blocking the vent? Just a question, but sounds like
a
reasonable thing to do. Fuel inside is almost unavoidable with
the -- Please Support Your Lists This Month (And Get the Annual link
Free * AeroElectric http://www.matronics.com/c Thank you for your
generous bsp; -Matt Dralle, List nbsp;
Navigator
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
====================
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Long legged passenger |
Smitty,
What model are you building?
Charlie Kuss
---- Smitty wrote:
>
> One of long legged buddies asked me if he was going to fit in my RV when I
> get it built. Since I haven't gotten that far yet I didn't know what to tell
> him. How "adjustable" are the seats and/or rudder pedals?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Smitty
> http://SmittysRV.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>
>Hi Listers,
>
>I have mentioned about my high CHT's and got lots of replies. I am working
>on the front area around the inlets and upper ramps based on those replies.
>However, I found something else to be addressed. At the back side of
>cylinder #3 right next to the case where the back baffle is. There is a
>hole that goes straight down not where the fins are but where the #3
>cylinder is bolted to the case. It looks like there is a tab on the bottom
>of the rear baffle metal that was to be bent up. I can't bend this now
>because it contacts the case and much work to remove the whole thing for
>trimming.
>
>There is another hole on the other side next to cylinder #2. It looks like
>it might be too big to just use silicone in there, what are other options?
>What have others done in this area?
>
>Thanks
>Tim Bryan
>RV-6
>0-360 A1A
>
Can you cut an oversize 'doubler' that will extend far enough to fill
the gap? Pop rivet to the existing baffle material.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Long legged passenger |
I had someone 6'3 in my RV-6 for a 6 hour out and back trip in one day. He
didn't have any problems.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 10:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Long legged passenger
>
> Smitty,
> What model are you building?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> ---- Smitty wrote:
>>
>> One of long legged buddies asked me if he was going to fit in my RV when
>> I
>> get it built. Since I haven't gotten that far yet I didn't know what to
>> tell
>> him. How "adjustable" are the seats and/or rudder pedals?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Smitty
>> http://SmittysRV.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
Fill all those gaps with red RTV.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
http://www.evorocket.com - Building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
Hi Charlie,
It is almost impossible to get to this spot without removing stuff. I
suspect it would have been difficult to do when building the baffles in the
first place, but would have been possible. I would like to just squirt some
silicone in there, but I think the opening is too big for it to stay put.
Possibly I could get some duct tape on the bottom of it, fill it with
silicone and removing the tape after it sets up.
I was wondering if it made sense to stuff something in there to close it up
but feel it is a little too hokey for me. Surely I am not alone on this.
Maybe this hole is insignificant with regards to cooling, but it is the
biggest hole in my upper pressure area. With cylinder head temps well above
400 degrees in the winter, I need to find something to change.
Thanks
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 10:33 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: plugging hole at rear of cylinders
>
>
> Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Hi Listers,
> >
> >I have mentioned about my high CHT's and got lots of replies. I am
> working
> >on the front area around the inlets and upper ramps based on those
> replies.
> >However, I found something else to be addressed. At the back side of
> >cylinder #3 right next to the case where the back baffle is. There is a
> >hole that goes straight down not where the fins are but where the #3
> >cylinder is bolted to the case. It looks like there is a tab on the
> bottom
> >of the rear baffle metal that was to be bent up. I can't bend this now
> >because it contacts the case and much work to remove the whole thing for
> >trimming.
> >
> >There is another hole on the other side next to cylinder #2. It looks
> like
> >it might be too big to just use silicone in there, what are other
> options?
> >What have others done in this area?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Tim Bryan
> >RV-6
> >0-360 A1A
> >
>
> Can you cut an oversize 'doubler' that will extend far enough to fill
> the gap? Pop rivet to the existing baffle material.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wesley T Robinson" <wesleyt(at)stanfordfurniture.com> |
| Subject: | Long legged passenger |
I have an RV-9A and am 6'6" and have done six straight with no problems.
Wesley T Robinson
WR Consulting
www.wtrconsulting.net
EAA 731 Web/Newsletter Editor
'The Red Baron' RV-9A N224WR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Long legged passenger
-->
I had someone 6'3 in my RV-6 for a 6 hour out and back trip in one day. He
didn't have any problems.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 10:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Long legged passenger
>
> Smitty,
> What model are you building?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> ---- Smitty wrote:
>>
>> One of long legged buddies asked me if he was going to fit in my RV when
>> I
>> get it built. Since I haven't gotten that far yet I didn't know what to
>> tell
>> him. How "adjustable" are the seats and/or rudder pedals?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Smitty
>> http://SmittysRV.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Hanging Elevators |
Hi;
The "notch" for the elevator balance horns which is cut in the
horizontal stab skins is intentionally made undersize so some "trim to
fit" is necessary to provide clearance for the counterbalance weights.
Having said this, a full 15/16" overlap seems rather excessive. Are
your elevator counterbalance horns per the plans? The forward dimension
is larger controlled by the E-713 skin pieces. I hope I am not pointing
out the obvious but the counterbalance weights do nest inside the skins
and are not bolted on the front of the E-713 skins.
The attached photo is of an RV-6 which uses a similar elevator
counterbalance arm arrangement and shows the typical "trim needed"
situation.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A C-GKGZ
Bill Settle wrote:
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> I'm doing the initial fit of the elevators to the horizontal on my -8. The instructions
say to ensure the elevators swing freely with no interference...
Both elevators' counterbalance arms extend forward into the horizontal skins 15/16"
and I cannot figure out why. I have rechecked the rod bearing centerline
measurement to the spar and have exactly 13/16" as per the plans. I saw on
Dan's site that he had to trim the right skin to allow the right elevator to
swing, so I am tempted to do the same. However, I'm concerned that if mine are
too far forward that I won't be able to get the elevators to balance. Any insight
would be appreciated.
>
> Bill Settle
> Winston-Salem, NC
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
Dear Tim: Sorry I don't have an answer for an easier fix. The correct long
term fix -- as painful and time consuming as it may seem to be -- is to
remove the baffling, make the bend(s) to eliminate the hole so you can get
good cooling and put it back together. Probably a day's or two task at
most. Filling a large hole with RTV or some other non metal material will
be subject to deterioration over time with the heat and vibration going on
in the engine area.
Best wishes. Indiana Larry.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 9:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: plugging hole at rear of cylinders
>
> Hi Charlie,
>
> It is almost impossible to get to this spot without removing stuff. I
> suspect it would have been difficult to do when building the baffles in
> the
> first place, but would have been possible. I would like to just squirt
> some
> silicone in there, but I think the opening is too big for it to stay put.
> Possibly I could get some duct tape on the bottom of it, fill it with
> silicone and removing the tape after it sets up.
>
> I was wondering if it made sense to stuff something in there to close it
> up
> but feel it is a little too hokey for me. Surely I am not alone on this.
> Maybe this hole is insignificant with regards to cooling, but it is the
> biggest hole in my upper pressure area. With cylinder head temps well
> above
> 400 degrees in the winter, I need to find something to change.
>
> Thanks
> Tim
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hey Walter
There is a new high temp RTV from Permatex. Its Grey in color
and matches my primer on my baffles. It has the same high temp rating of
the red stuff. This way it doesn't look bad when you apply it around the
gaps. It blends in nicely. Check your auto supply store as they have a
grey and a black and I believe they both are now high temp. The "Ultra
Grey" (p/n 82194 or 599BR) is rated for 625 deg F.
I found the gap on my #3 cyl. before I RTV'd it in place. I
tried to look around every nook and cranny to fine out where air could
bypass. I also found out the spacer / bolt that holds the rear baffle on
the #4 cyl side also had to be RTV'd. I however had it done when I found
that area. So I got our a long stemmed flat screw driver and put little
dabs of RTV on it and placed it down in the area to fill it up and stop
as much gap as I could.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A FWF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Tim,
Also don't forget to close off the area under the "upper" fiber
glass inserts that we glass in on the upper cowl. Air can bypass from
the pressure area over into the low pressure area of the cowl.
Jim Nelson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
>
> Also don't forget to close off the area under the "upper" fiber
>glass inserts that we glass in on the upper cowl. Air can bypass from
>the pressure area over into the low pressure area of the cowl.
I checked this on mine (RV-6A, O-360)and see no way that air can move from
the high
pressure to low pressure side.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Plugging hole at rear of cylinders |
I think this depends on exactly how you do the baffle seals at the front of
the engine. With mine it was obvious that it was going to be a huge leak of
pressure, so I glassed off one end of the inserts. I then looked at a
friends very similar setup, but he did the seals differently and sealing the
ends of the insert wasn't necessary.
Terry
RV-8A Aerosport Power O-360-B1B 180 hp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Plugging hole at rear of cylinders
>
> Also don't forget to close off the area under the "upper" fiber
>glass inserts that we glass in on the upper cowl. Air can bypass from
>the pressure area over into the low pressure area of the cowl.
I checked this on mine (RV-6A, O-360)and see no way that air can move from
the high
pressure to low pressure side.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Clear glop/jelly appearing in your fuel system ?? |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
.. this was a recent thread about a clear gelatinous substance
appearing someone's fuel filters ?? Did you ever figure out
what it was ?
Today I was calibrating the fuel gauges on my RV-9, endless
pouring of 2 gallon increments ... etc, you know the drill.
And then I started to notice this clear jelly deposit
collecting around the the stem of the funnel .. very strange
.. if you put a chunk of it to one side it would gradually
evaporate ... I can only imagine that its some part of the fuel
that evaporates at a different rate ... ?
This fuel came straight from the self-serve tank at KHAF.
Did you ever figure out what the deal was ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
Mickey, Dan, anyone else who is interested:
I did buy and install the little video camera & screen from Costco for
$90.00. I put it on my pickup as a back-up assist. The quality seems just
fine, and installation was especially easy, except for the crimp-on wire
taps that cut my truck's wiring and I had to take the gizmos off and solder
things back together.
The camera is in a plastic bracket that doubles as the top or bottom half of
a license plate frame. The wire comes out of that and hooks into the back-up
light circuit for the vehicle, so the camera is only powered when the
back-up lights are, or typically when the vehicle is in reverse. The wire is
also the broadcast antenna for the camera so it has a tag on it telling you
not to cut it off shorter than the location of the tag.
The receiver has a cigarette lighter plug or a hard wired cord; both are in
the box. There is a swivel holder for the screen and Velcro self-stick pads
to fasten either the swivel holder or the screen by itself to the vehicle.
It works on the same frequency as some cordless phones. I think I picked up
a stores security camera picture on the screen at one intersection I went
through tonight. I doubt that this would be a problem for anyone. I just
hadn't turned off the screen to see if it would pick up anything. It did.
I measured the little molded plastic box that the screen is mounted in but
forgot to write the dimensions down. If anyone needs it, I can go measure it
again and write it down this time. I think it was 3+" wide by 2+" tall by
7/8" thick; very light weight. The specs say the screen is 1-1/2". A bigger
screen in a smaller box would be better, of course, but this isn't bad, and
it's a clean design. You won't want to mount it too far away from your eyes.
The one concern I would have for it as the forward vision for a tail wheel
aircraft is that the camera lens is quite wide angle. This is great for a
back-up assist, but it might be too wide-angle for that blind spot some of
us are worried about. It would be very hard to judge distance by looking at
the screen, but I doubt if you would want to use it for that much precision
anyway.
The screen is in color and the image is quite clear but distorted as through
a fish-eye lens. Interference from other electronics MIGHT be a problem; I
don't know. As for it causing problems with your avionics, just turning off
the camera and receiver would be easy and should solve that. The whole
system must weigh much less than a pound; it's quite light but I didn't
weigh it.
One very helpful feature of the receiver is that you have four possibilities
for the picture; right side up mirror image; right side up straight image;
upside down mirror image, or upside down not mirrored. You sequence through
the four settings with the only control button besides the power button.
This means that you could either install it as a back-up assist as I did and
set it so it reads like you were looking in a mirror, or as a forward view
enhancer without having to mentally interpolate what you are seeing.
I'm sure some will find lots of uses for this gadget or variations of the
concept. If this one serves your purpose, it is a well thought out and
manufactured system for an attractive price.
For the record: Manufacturer is VR3, model number is VRBCS300W. Costco has
it for $90; Wal-Mart for about $100. On line it's advertised for up to $170.
Terry
> I think I have convinced myself to buy one for my pickup. Gee, it even
> says it's made for RV's!
Terry, Please let us know how it works. It sounds like an excellent
safety enhancer.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Mather" <peter(at)mather.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel injector plumbing |
Hi all
I've converted an IO-320-B1A from rear induction to standard updraft with a
change of sump to fit my RV9A. My question relates to the fuel plumbing
between the main Bendix RSA-5AD1 fuel injector and the fuel divider on top
of the engine. This is a 1/4" pipe on the IO-320. The obvious routing is
between the numbers 2 and 4 cylinders against the crankcase. If this is OK I
can use the Vans VA-133 oil pressure hose and add a fire proof sleeve.
Otherwise I'm going to need a very long hose to route some other way.
I'd be interested how this works on a standard updraft IO-360/320, how the
fuel pipe is routed, and how it is supported and protected through the
baffle between the cylinders
Thanks
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Superior Engine Delays |
| From: | "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com> |
If anyone is experiencing delays from Superior on an O/IO-320, I would
like to hear from you offline.
Thanks
Daniel Snow
RV-9A, Electrical
Daniel.snow(at)wancdf.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel injector plumbing |
In a message dated 12/4/2006 6:54:44 AM Eastern Standard Time,
peter(at)mather.com writes:
Hi all
I've converted an IO-320-B1A from rear induction to standard updraft with a
change of sump to fit my RV9A. My question relates to the fuel plumbing
between the main Bendix RSA-5AD1 fuel injector and the fuel divider on top
of the engine. This is a 1/4" pipe on the IO-320. The obvious routing is
between the numbers 2 and 4 cylinders against the crankcase. If this is OK I
can use the Vans VA-133 oil pressure hose and add a fire proof sleeve.
Otherwise I'm going to need a very long hose to route some other way.
I'd be interested how this works on a standard updraft IO-360/320, how the
fuel pipe is routed, and how it is supported and protected through the
baffle between the cylinders
Thanks
Peter
Peter,
I have been using the Vans VA-133 hose for the fuel line on my IO-360 200 Hp
engine.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A about 180 hours since July '04
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
I don't believe I need anything on my -4 except my eyeballs and some shallow
S-turns... but watch closely to see how they handled this problem in WWII on
big taildraggers like the P-47 when taxiing in tight quarters (it's a cool video
-you won't be sorry you viewed it).
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=4368250464023128830&pr=goog-sl
I personally think similar procedures should be used at OSH and other fly-ins
with warbirds and other large taildraggers.
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Still Grinning - First flight of N881GP |
| From: | "Puckett, Gregory [DENTK]" <Greg.Puckett(at)united.com> |
Listers,
After 10 years of building, I flew my RV-8 sn 80081 for the first time yesterday.
I followed Kevin H. and others suggestion about not having a chase and split the
day in to two flight.
The first flight was just several times around the pattern at altitude ending in
a perfect landing and back to the hangar to check for leaks/things where they
should not be. The flight itself was absolutely wonderful. The aircraft flew
hands off and all engine parameters were as expected. I did find one small oil
leak when the cowl was removed. It was due to overtighning of one valve cover
that split the silicone gasket. Luckily I found one available at FTG on a Sunday
and fixed the leak. Now I was ready for a second flight.
The second flight was off to the east to get away from the DEN class B, gain some
altitude and I performed some slow flight, power off stalls, A/P tests...
While on my way back, I got a "ding, check engine analyzer" in my headset and
discovered the #1 CHT had dropped to below 150deg (the lower limit I had programmed).
The EGTs were normal, no unusual vibrations, and engine seeemed to be
making full power ...It must be a gauge problem. Finally as I was watching the
gauge, I saw the indication jump from 125 to 295 (the same as the other cyliders)
several times. Now at least I knew for sure it was a gauge problem. I returned
to FTG and called it a very good day.
Keep building everyone, it's worth every hour and penny you put into it.
Thanks to everyone on the list that has answered all of my stupid question over
the years.
Greg Puckett (flying, wooo hoooo!!!!)
Elizabeth, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Forward vision for tail wheel pilots |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Forward vision for tail wheel pilots
I used a Sony Super HAD CCD color bullet camera (VC-805) from Circuit
Specialists. It works perfectly. It's not a wide angle camera like the
backup cameras. It's been installed for well over a year and hasn't
missed a beat.
A little more info for those who want it: scroll down to the FLIR
section.
http://www.vincesrocket.com/Additions%20after%2010-27-04.htm
It's not for everyone, but I like it and use it whenever I'm at an
unfamiliar or busy airport. Or just to keep up with my nosedragging RV
buddies on the taxiway.
YMMV
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Still Grinning - First flight of N881GP |
Congrats Greg,
Well done, Enjoy!
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Puckett, Gregory [DENTK]
> Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 8:34 AM
> To: Puckett, Gregory [DENTK]; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Still Grinning - First flight of N881GP
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> After 10 years of building, I flew my RV-8 sn 80081 for the first time
> yesterday.
>
> I followed Kevin H. and others suggestion about not having a chase and
> split the day in to two flight.
>
> The first flight was just several times around the pattern at altitude
> ending in a perfect landing and back to the hangar to check for
> leaks/things where they should not be. The flight itself was absolutely
> wonderful. The aircraft flew hands off and all engine parameters were as
> expected. I did find one small oil leak when the cowl was removed. It was
> due to overtighning of one valve cover that split the silicone gasket.
> Luckily I found one available at FTG on a Sunday and fixed the leak. Now I
> was ready for a second flight.
>
> The second flight was off to the east to get away from the DEN class B,
> gain some altitude and I performed some slow flight, power off stalls, A/P
> tests... While on my way back, I got a "ding, check engine analyzer" in
> my headset and discovered the #1 CHT had dropped to below 150deg (the
> lower limit I had programmed). The EGTs were normal, no unusual
> vibrations, and engine seeemed to be making full power ...It must be a
> gauge problem. Finally as I was watching the gauge, I saw the indication
> jump from 125 to 295 (the same as the other cyliders) several times. Now
> at least I knew for sure it was a gauge problem. I returned to FTG and
> called it a very good day.
>
> Keep building everyone, it's worth every hour and penny you put into it.
>
> Thanks to everyone on the list that has answered all of my stupid question
> over the years.
>
> Greg Puckett (flying, wooo hoooo!!!!)
> Elizabeth, CO
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: Still Grinning - First flight of N881GP |
Way to go! Congrats. I get a number 1 cylinder temp drop that's not in line with
the other cylinders too withoug and EGT change. It happens at lower power
settings. Never have figured it out. So much more fun to fly than tweak/debug.
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Puckett, Gregory [DENTK]" <Greg.Puckett(at)united.com>
>
>
> Listers,
>
> After 10 years of building, I flew my RV-8 sn 80081 for the first time
> yesterday.
>
> I followed Kevin H. and others suggestion about not having a chase and split
the
> day in to two flight.
>
> The first flight was just several times around the pattern at altitude ending
in
> a perfect landing and back to the hangar to check for leaks/things where they
> should not be. The flight itself was absolutely wonderful. The aircraft flew
> hands off and all engine parameters were as expected. I did find one small oil
> leak when the cowl was removed. It was due to overtighning of one valve cover
> that split the silicone gasket. Luckily I found one available at FTG on a Sunday
> and fixed the leak. Now I was ready for a second flight.
>
> The second flight was off to the east to get away from the DEN class B, gain
> some altitude and I performed some slow flight, power off stalls, A/P tests...
> While on my way back, I got a "ding, check engine analyzer" in my headset and
> discovered the #1 CHT had dropped to below 150deg (the lower limit I had
> programmed). The EGTs were normal, no unusual vibrations, and engine seeemed
to
> be making full power ...It must be a gauge problem. Finally as I was watching
> the gauge, I saw the indication jump from 125 to 295 (the same as the other
> cyliders) several times. Now at least I knew for sure it was a gauge problem.
I
> returned to FTG and called it a very good day.
>
> Keep building everyone, it's worth every hour and penny you put into it.
>
> Thanks to everyone on the list that has answered all of my stupid question over
> the years.
>
> Greg Puckett (flying, wooo hoooo!!!!)
> Elizabeth, CO
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Way to go! Congrats. I get a number 1 cylinder temp drop that's
not in line with the other cylinders too withoug and EGT change.
It happens at lower power settings. Never have figured it out. So
much more fun to fly than tweak/debug.
Lucky
> --> RV-List message
posted by: "Puckett, Gregory [DENTK]"
>
>
> Listers,
>
> After 10 years of building, I flew
my RV-8 sn 80081 for the first time
> yesterday.
>
> I followed
Kevin H. and others suggestion about not having a chase and split the
> day in to two flight.
>
> The first flight was just several
times around the pattern at altitude ending in
> a perfect landing
and back to the hangar to check for leaks/things where they
> should not
be. The flight itself was absolutely wonderful. The aircraft flew
>
hands off and all engine parameters were as expected. I did find one small oil
> leak when the cowl was removed. It was due
to ove
rtighning of one valve cover
> that split the silicone gasket. Luckily I
found one available at FTG on a Sunday
> and fixed the leak. Now I was
ready for a second flight.
>
> The second flight was off to the
east to get away from the DEN class B, gain
> some altitude and I performed
some slow flight, power off stalls, A/P tests...
> While on my way
back, I got a "ding, check engine analyzer" in my headset and
> discovered
the #1 CHT had dropped to below 150deg (the lower limit I had
> programmed).
The EGTs were normal, no unusual vibrations, and engine seeemed to
> be making full power ...It must be a gauge problem. Finally as I was
watching
> the gauge, I saw the indication jump from 125 to 295 (the same
as the other
> cyliders) several times. Now at least I knew for sure
it was a gauge problem. I
> returned to FTG and called it a very good
day.
>
> Keep building everyone, it's
worth
tp://w
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Still Grinning - First flight of N881GP |
Congratulations, Greg!!!!!
Richard Dudley
-6A flying
Puckett, Gregory [DENTK] wrote:
>
>Listers,
>
>After 10 years of building, I flew my RV-8 sn 80081 for the first time yesterday.
>
>I followed Kevin H. and others suggestion about not having a chase and split the
day in to two flight.
>
>The first flight was just several times around the pattern at altitude ending
in a perfect landing and back to the hangar to check for leaks/things where they
should not be. The flight itself was absolutely wonderful. The aircraft flew
hands off and all engine parameters were as expected. I did find one small oil
leak when the cowl was removed. It was due to overtighning of one valve cover
that split the silicone gasket. Luckily I found one available at FTG on a Sunday
and fixed the leak. Now I was ready for a second flight.
>
>The second flight was off to the east to get away from the DEN class B, gain some
altitude and I performed some slow flight, power off stalls, A/P tests...
While on my way back, I got a "ding, check engine analyzer" in my headset and
discovered the #1 CHT had dropped to below 150deg (the lower limit I had programmed).
The EGTs were normal, no unusual vibrations, and engine seeemed to be
making full power ...It must be a gauge problem. Finally as I was watching the
gauge, I saw the indication jump from 125 to 295 (the same as the other cyliders)
several times. Now at least I knew for sure it was a gauge problem. I returned
to FTG and called it a very good day.
>
>Keep building everyone, it's worth every hour and penny you put into it.
>
>Thanks to everyone on the list that has answered all of my stupid question over
the years.
>
>Greg Puckett (flying, wooo hoooo!!!!)
>Elizabeth, CO
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Medema" <doug.medema(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Long legged passenger |
I'm 6'6" with long legs and I fit in my RV-6A quite well.
However, I did make some changes to make it more pleasant:
1) I raised the canopy (slider) 1 inch at the roll bar.
2) I moved the cross-brace behind the top of the seats back
1-1/2"
3) I made sure the most aft hinge on the seat bottom was as
far back as possible.
4) I raised the rudder pedals 1" which allows me to get my
feet underneath them
which helps more than you might think!
5) I put the battery on the engine side of the firewall
which frees up some foot
space which also helps.
6) I have fairly thin seat cushions both on the bottom and
back of the seat.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
--
Date: 12/3/2006 4:36 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Still Grinning - First flight of N881GP |
Congratulations! It must be the best of feelings, indeed!
John Jessen
#40328
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Puckett, Gregory
[DENTK]
Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 9:34 AM
Subject: RV-List: Still Grinning - First flight of N881GP
-->
Listers,
After 10 years of building, I flew my RV-8 sn 80081 for the first time
yesterday.
I followed Kevin H. and others suggestion about not having a chase and split
the day in to two flight.
The first flight was just several times around the pattern at altitude
ending in a perfect landing and back to the hangar to check for leaks/things
where they should not be. The flight itself was absolutely wonderful. The
aircraft flew hands off and all engine parameters were as expected. I did
find one small oil leak when the cowl was removed. It was due to
overtighning of one valve cover that split the silicone gasket. Luckily I
found one available at FTG on a Sunday and fixed the leak. Now I was ready
for a second flight.
The second flight was off to the east to get away from the DEN class B, gain
some altitude and I performed some slow flight, power off stalls, A/P
tests... While on my way back, I got a "ding, check engine analyzer" in my
headset and discovered the #1 CHT had dropped to below 150deg (the lower
limit I had programmed). The EGTs were normal, no unusual vibrations, and
engine seeemed to be making full power ...It must be a gauge problem.
Finally as I was watching the gauge, I saw the indication jump from 125 to
295 (the same as the other cyliders) several times. Now at least I knew for
sure it was a gauge problem. I returned to FTG and called it a very good
day.
Keep building everyone, it's worth every hour and penny you put into it.
Thanks to everyone on the list that has answered all of my stupid question
over the years.
Greg Puckett (flying, wooo hoooo!!!!)
Elizabeth, CO
--
7:18 AM
--
7:18 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FAB inlet scoop - rivet the connection fabric ? |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Is it the common practice to use pop-rivets to secure the
baffle fabric around the end of the Filtered Air Box inlet where
it connects to the cowl scoop ?
Seems to me that the shop heads on the rivets are going to
induce a lot of turbulence in the intake - or am I getting a
little obsessive here ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAB inlet scoop - rivet the connection fabric ? |
I doubt if the air coming off the back of the prop is very smooth to
begin with. I've got the pop rivets in mine and I haven't noticed any
turbulence. :-)
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
Gerry Filby wrote:
>
>
> Is it the common practice to use pop-rivets to secure the
> baffle fabric around the end of the Filtered Air Box inlet where
> it connects to the cowl scoop ?
>
> Seems to me that the shop heads on the rivets are going to
> induce a lot of turbulence in the intake - or am I getting a
> little obsessive here ?
>
> __g__
>
> ==========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | laser etched labeling |
A couple of months ago I described a panel labelling method that is used
by my employer frequently to label dark anodized aluminum panels for
rack mount electronics. Basically the device is an X-Y plotter with a
0.003" wide laser spot instead of a pen. It explodes the dark anodized
layer off the aluminum exposing the bare aluminum beneath. Looks good
and is VERY tough and permanent. I decided to have my panel labelled
that way. Trophy shops and machine shops often have these laser etching
machines.
I had a lot of bad luck along the way getting the job done (see below),
but I finally got it and have attached a fairly hi-res close-up. I
think it looks terrific. Cost is by the area of the rectangle that
encloses all the labels. At $0.50/sq in. I paid about $250 which,
frankly, was more than I was expecting.
Problems:
The trophy shop that does all the work for my employer is competent but
was very busy. They kept it for 3 weeks and then told me that their
laser plotter had become erratic and they didn't want to do any one of a
kind panels till they got their new plotter delivered in Jan.
Second person I took it to kept it 1 week and then had a serious medical
problem and gave it back to me untouched.
Third outfit was another local trophy shop but they were unaccustomed to
making panels. They kept it 3 weeks, and actually plotted it, but they
botched the job. I had to have it re-anodized (which the guy did for
free in 2 days.)
In desperation I called the first trophy shop again. Fortunately, the
plotter operator there told me she was leaving that shop and going to
work for a local machine shop. Another 2 week's delay and finally it
got done. She did a great job.
So, if you decide to do this,
1- have them make up a sample plot on a piece of scrap to see if you
like it, and
2- take it to a shop that is used to labeling panels, not soccer trophys
for 10 year olds.
It took 9 weeks and I became so desperate I found myself working on,
gasp, fiberglass! Ugh!
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Loretz <rv8(at)loretz.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Still Grinning - First flight of N881GP |
Congratulations Greg!
John
RV8 - Centennial, CO
On Dec 4, 2006, at 7:34 AM, Puckett, Gregory [DENTK] wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> After 10 years of building, I flew my RV-8 sn 80081 for the first
> time yesterday.
>
> I followed Kevin H. and others suggestion about not having a chase
> and split the day in to two flight.
>
> The first flight was just several times around the pattern at
> altitude ending in a perfect landing and back to the hangar to
> check for leaks/things where they should not be. The flight itself
> was absolutely wonderful. The aircraft flew hands off and all
> engine parameters were as expected. I did find one small oil leak
> when the cowl was removed. It was due to overtighning of one valve
> cover that split the silicone gasket. Luckily I found one available
> at FTG on a Sunday and fixed the leak. Now I was ready for a second
> flight.
>
> The second flight was off to the east to get away from the DEN
> class B, gain some altitude and I performed some slow flight, power
> off stalls, A/P tests... While on my way back, I got a "ding,
> check engine analyzer" in my headset and discovered the #1 CHT had
> dropped to below 150deg (the lower limit I had programmed). The
> EGTs were normal, no unusual vibrations, and engine seeemed to be
> making full power ...It must be a gauge problem. Finally as I was
> watching the gauge, I saw the indication jump from 125 to 295 (the
> same as the other cyliders) several times. Now at least I knew for
> sure it was a gauge problem. I returned to FTG and called it a very
> good day.
>
> Keep building everyone, it's worth every hour and penny you put
> into it.
>
> Thanks to everyone on the list that has answered all of my stupid
> question over the years.
>
> Greg Puckett (flying, wooo hoooo!!!!)
> Elizabeth, CO
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Superior Engine Delays |
Superior has had one delay after another on their forward facing sump for the
injected engines. They are on the third try and that one was supposed to have
been ready last Sept. Then Oct...Nov...Dec... One thing I find troubling is
that they turned over their response to the Sales Dept., rather than
engineering. Getting info out of them is like pulling teeth on a stubborn mule.
I take
note that they have plenty of engineering staff to develop their 400 HP racing
engine, but not to take care of the cracking sump problem...
Sorry for the vent, but you asked...
Jerry Cochran
In a message dated 12/5/2006 12:00:35 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
If anyone is experiencing delays from Superior on an O/IO-320, I would
like to hear from you offline.
Thanks
Daniel Snow
RV-9A, Electrical
Daniel.snow(at)wancdf.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ? |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
Anyone else have experience with the Safeair1 pitot/static
plumbing kits ? I had my pitot/static/transponder check this
morning ... the pitot/static has a "massive leak" :-/ I think
I may not have installed the "quick" connectors properly,
waiting for a call back from Safeair ...
Have others had problems with these gizmos before ?
(Transponder is just fine - thanks Garmin. Someone else on the
field wasn't so lucky with their King transponder - brand new,
dead as a dodo.)
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ? |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
The tubing and connectors SafeAir use are from the trucking
environment. They are actually SAE air brake lines and quick connect
fittings used on semi's and other vehicles. It is extremely unlikely
that you would have a leak of any magnitude without something else
wrong.
Those types of quick connect fittings can sometimes seem like they are
in but really aren't. A quick way to be sure is to put a line about 1/4
to 1/2 inch back after you cut the tubing to size. Once you push the
tube in it becomes very easy to tell if it is seated all the way in.
Another way to tell is by feel as it should slide in fairly easily and
then you will have some resistance for another 1/8th inch as it slides
passed the o-ring before it bottoms out.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ?
Safeair gave me a prompt call back ... apparently its kinda hard to
install them incorrectly so long as you get the tubing cut nice and
square and fully seated in the fitting. I'll investigate tonight ...
g
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Still Grinning - First flight of N881GP |
On 4 Dec 2006, at 11:29, someone wrote:
> Fly off your hours so you can do Meadow Lake RVers style breakfast
> flights. http://tinyurl.com/y78c8s
>
Got to jump in here - the flight test phase should be a lot more than
simply "flying off the hours". The whole point of the flight test
phase is to test the aircraft, engine, avionics, other systems to
determine if they work properly, and if not, correct the problems.
It is also the time for the builder to learn the major things that
the aircraft has to teach him.
Builders should be determining how the aircraft handles at various
weights and CGs. They should determine stall speeds, and stall
characteristics, at various weights and CGs. They should determine
how to properly lean the aircraft, and then see what the cruise fuel
flow and speed is at various power settings and altitudes. Determine
the optimum take off and landing techniques and speeds, and then
determine the take off and landing performance. Determine the errors
in the airspeed system. Confirm proper functioning of the avionics.
Etc, etc, etc. It is not just flying off the hours.
For a whole bunch more about what should be in a flight test program,
read FAA AC 90-89A Amateur-Built Aircraft and Ultralight Flight
Testing Handbook:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/rvlinks/90-89a.pdf
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | What Rod end bearing? |
Hi gang,
There is a small creaking coming from the upper rod end bearing
(hinge) of the rudder of my RV-4. I assume that it need replacement,
but cannot find a part number for this item. I did not build the -4
and don't have the parts call-out list. Help!! Thanks in advance
Louis
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What Rod end bearing? |
I'm not 100% positive for the RV-4, but on the RV-7 it's MD3614M on the top
two, and MD3616M on the bottom. I would assume it's the same but double
check me on it.
>From Van's parts list: (http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/parts.txt)
BEARING MD3614M 3/16 X 3/8 ROD END $12.26
BEARING MD3616M 3/16X3/8M LONG RD END $14.66
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 7:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: What Rod end bearing?
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
> There is a small creaking coming from the upper rod end bearing (hinge) of
> the rudder of my RV-4. I assume that it need replacement, but cannot find
> a part number for this item. I did not build the -4 and don't have the
> parts call-out list. Help!! Thanks in advance
>
> Louis
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Porter" <december29(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Pitot tube covers |
Hi,
Does anyone have a line on pitot tube covers that fit a Dynon AOA
pitot? I got one from Spruce but it was way too small.
Thanks,
John
80002
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 10:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Superior Engine Delays
Superior has had one delay after another on their forward facing sump
for the injected engines. They are on the third try and that one was
supposed to have been ready last Sept. Then Oct...Nov...Dec... One thing
I find troubling is that they turned over their response to the Sales
Dept., rather than engineering. Getting info out of them is like pulling
teeth on a stubborn mule. I take note that they have plenty of
engineering staff to develop their 400 HP racing engine, but not to take
care of the cracking sump problem...
Sorry for the vent, but you asked...
Jerry Cochran
In a message dated 12/5/2006 12:00:35 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
If anyone is experiencing delays from Superior on an O/IO-320, I
would
like to hear from you offline.
Thanks
Daniel Snow
RV-9A, Electrical
Daniel.snow(at)wancdf.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot tube covers |
Great question. I bought one from Sporty to fit the Gretz heated pitot, but
way to small also. It slides on so is useable, but will not go back far
enough to fasten it.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Porter
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 3:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pitot tube covers
Hi,
Does anyone have a line on pitot tube covers that fit a Dynon AOA pitot? I
got one from Spruce but it was way too small.
Thanks,
John
80002
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 10:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Superior Engine Delays
Superior has had one delay after another on their forward facing sump for
the injected engines. They are on the third try and that one was supposed to
have been ready last Sept. Then Oct...Nov...Dec... One thing I find
troubling is that they turned over their response to the Sales Dept., rather
than engineering. Getting info out of them is like pulling teeth on a
stubborn mule. I take note that they have plenty of engineering staff to
develop their 400 HP racing engine, but not to take care of the cracking
sump problem...
Sorry for the vent, but you asked...
Jerry Cochran
In a message dated 12/5/2006 12:00:35 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
If anyone is experiencing delays from Superior on an O/IO-320, I would
like to hear from you offline.
Thanks
Daniel Snow
RV-9A, Electrical
Daniel.snow(at)wancdf.com
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Naviga
tor?RV-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ? |
Would like more info on the Safeair pitot/static line kits. Is there a web
site with info? Who sells it? Anybody have pictures on web site?
Got many hits on search but not the right stuff.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ? |
try www.safeair1.com
It's right on the front page......
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
>Sent: Dec 6, 2006 8:09 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ?
>
>
>Would like more info on the Safeair pitot/static line kits. Is there a web
>site with info? Who sells it? Anybody have pictures on web site?
>Got many hits on search but not the right stuff.
>
>Dale Ensing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ? |
What pitot tube are you using?
I had mine done and was experiencing a leak. I'm using the Dynon AOA
style pitot tube. Turned out the AOA hole on Pitot tube wasn't getting
sealed in the process. We took off the inpsection panel, unhooked the
pitot tube and went directly on that line. No leaks anywhere.
I've heard of several others having this same issue with this tube.
Otherwise it would be very difficult to get a leak on these fittings.
DArwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
RV7 N717EE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ? |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
I'm also using the Dynon AOA/Pitot. I had the same issue - I
called Dynon - it has a "calibrated internal leak" that means
you can't pressure test the pitot directly - you have
disconnect the line behind it as you indicate below.
g
> What pitot tube are you using?
>
> I had mine done and was experiencing a leak. I'm using the
> Dynon AOA style pitot tube. Turned out the AOA hole on Pitot
> tube wasn't getting sealed in the process. We took off the
> inpsection panel, unhooked the pitot tube and went directly on
> that line. No leaks anywhere.
>
> I've heard of several others having this same issue with this
> tube. Otherwise it would be very difficult to get a leak on
> these fittings.
>
> DArwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
> RV7 N717EE
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "smitty(at)smittysrv.com" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ? |
It's time for me to think "pitot" since I'm close to that point in my wing
construction. So... is there a problem with the pitot system that Van shows
on the plans? Should I consider something different?
Opinions are appreciated!
Smitty
http://SmittysRV.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ? |
>
>It's time for me to think "pitot" since I'm close to that point in my wing
>construction. So... is there a problem with the pitot system that Van shows
>on the plans? Should I consider something different?
>
>Opinions are appreciated!
I used Van's stainless steel pitot and after four years it works great and
it is super simple. But, if you want heat or AOA or a static port on the
pitot you will have to use something else.
Bob
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leland and Anne <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Spurious Floscan pulses |
The pulses from Van's Facet pump cause my EIS 4000 to read 2-3
gallons/hour high, when on. This is so even though the pump is in the
cockpit with about two feet of aluminum tubing and a gascolator between
the electric pump and the Floscan head. I tried installing a Matronics
spherical pulse-dampener in the line but did not like having all the
extra fittings. Has anybody on this list tried replacing the aluminum
tubing with flexible fuel line to dampen the pulses?
Leland
RV9A in the paint shop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ? |
I have Van's designed pitot system on my VFR 6A and it works fine. Would not
change it.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: <smitty(at)smittysrv.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ?
>
> It's time for me to think "pitot" since I'm close to that point in my wing
> construction. So... is there a problem with the pitot system that Van
> shows
> on the plans? Should I consider something different?
>
> Opinions are appreciated!
>
> Smitty
> http://SmittysRV.com
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web - Check your email from the web at
> http://mail2web.com/ .
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ? |
| From: | Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
I don't think there's anything wrong with it, I'm sure it works
just fine on the many planes its installed on.
I went with the Safeair1 plumbing system because, IMHO, its far
easier and quicker to install. I think Vans sticks to alum
tubing for the pitot because its cheap ! Vans pitot "mast"
isn't heated and doesn't give you an AOA option, so you're
paying a little extra to get a lot more by going with the Dynon
or Gretz options.
g
>
>
>
> It's time for me to think "pitot" since I'm close to that point
> in my wing
> construction. So... is there a problem with the pitot system
> that Van shows
> on the plans? Should I consider something different?
>
> Opinions are appreciated!
>
> Smitty
> http://SmittysRV.com
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web - Check your email from the web at
> http://mail2web.com/ .
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ? |
I used the Gretz because I wanted the heated pitot. I tried to use Van's
static lines and rivets but I made several attempts to get the tubing to
stay on the rivets, but to no avail I gave up and used the SafeAir kit. I
am very happy with the fittings, and the ports. Wish I wouldn't have spent
so much time messing with the tube stuck over a rivet.
On the other hand, others have had good luck with it. Maybe I did it all
wrong and thus my problems.
Tim
RV-6
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of smitty(at)smittysrv.com
> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 10:29 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Safeair1 Pitot/Static plumbing kits ?
>
>
>
> It's time for me to think "pitot" since I'm close to that point in my wing
> construction. So... is there a problem with the pitot system that Van
> shows
> on the plans? Should I consider something different?
>
> Opinions are appreciated!
>
> Smitty
> http://SmittysRV.com
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web - Check your email from the web at
> http://mail2web.com/ .
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor" <davist(at)xsinet.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Fuel Gauges |
I have a problem with Fuel gauges that under-read on my -6. They were
working perfectly for 6 years then one day I noticed that first the
right tank gauge and about two months later, the left started to
under-read. With tanks full they barely indicate above 1/2 and when
empty go well below the "0" On power down the one gauge whips back to
below "0" and parks on the stop while the other one winds down more
leisurely but also comes to rest well below the "0". They are the old
type Ispro gauges with float sender units. They seem to indicate fuel
decreasing as it is burnt off but it is almost as if the needles need to
be "cranked" up
I have checked the earthing points and wiring but short of pulling the
tanks off I am at a loss of what to do. Is there a resistance check one
can do and if so how does one go about it? Has anyone had this problem?
Any advice in welcome
Trevor D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Still Grinning - First flight of N881GP |
Greg,
CONGRATULATIONS AND WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Puckett, Gregory [DENTK]" <Greg.Puckett(at)united.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Puckett, Gregory [DENTK]" ,
>
>Subject: RV-List: Still Grinning - First flight of N881GP
>Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 07:34:07 -0700
>
>Listers,
>
>After 10 years of building, I flew my RV-8 sn 80081 for the first time
>yesterday.
>
>Greg Puckett (flying, wooo hoooo!!!!)
>Elizabeth, CO
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get free, personalized commercial-free online radio with MSN Radio powered
by Pandora http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Kaluza" <charleskaluza(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spurious Floscan pulses |
We have had the same issue on our 6 A. Made calibration of the sender
more difficult but not a factor in cross-country flights. I was
wondering if the carburetor float and bowl were part of the issue?
Kaluza
144KL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spurious Floscan pulses |
| From: | "Leland Collins" <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
Kaluza, my monitor shows an increased flow rate when the electric fuel pump is
rattling away, and it shows fluctuations in reading of a gallon/hour. As you suggest,
he fluctuations are likely due to variations in carburetor float level.
I would like to minimize the flow rate increase from the Facet pump.
Leland
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=79880#79880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spurious Floscan pulses |
Leland Collins wrote:
>
>
> Kaluza, my monitor shows an increased flow rate when the electric
> fuel pump is rattling away, and it shows fluctuations in reading of a
> gallon/hour. As you suggest, he fluctuations are likely due to
> variations in carburetor float level. I would like to minimize the
> flow rate increase from the Facet pump. Leland
The explanation I have heard for the flow rate "increase" while the pump
is running involves the design of the flow sensor. It uses an optical
sensor and rotating vanes in order to send pulses to the flowmeter which
then are counted so flow rate can be calculated. When the pump is
running, it causes the fuel flow to alternate in a forward and backward
motion which causes the sensor to generate extra pulses. I assume a
rotary pump would not cause these errors but those of us with the Facet
diaphragm pump see the error.
I don't see how the fuel level in the carb would vary provided the carb
is receiving adequate flow and the float and needle are functioning
properly.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spurious Floscan pulses |
>Kaluza, my monitor shows an increased flow rate when the electric fuel
>pump is rattling away, and it shows fluctuations in reading of a
>gallon/hour. As you suggest, he fluctuations are likely due to variations
>in carburetor float level. I would like to minimize the flow rate increase
>from the Facet pump.
>Leland
Don't worry about it. The electric boost pump is only on a short time (a
few minutes).
When I fill up and the amount is within a gallon or less of what the fuel
totalizer
indicates, it is a non-issue. Just calibrate the sensor count over
several fillups
and you will be fine.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spurious Floscan pulses |
Dale, you make a good point about the lack of compressibility of the
fuel, but maybe Doug has hit on the reason for the less than consistent
flow rate indication.
Seems I heard the background info on this matter from RMI, the
manufacturer of the uMonitor in my plane. If I recall the setup
correctly, my monitor sees ~2900 pulses per gallon which is ~6.5 pulses
per second at cruise. If the pump is inducing a couple of pulses per
second, there is our error.
However, all of this is pretty academic since it has practically no
real-world impact on fuel management. Since the pump only runs during
takeoff, landing, and tank change, it has minimal impact on hourly fuel
calculations and reduces this whole exercise to the realm of "merely
curious". :-)
Sam Buchanan
=======================
Doug Gray wrote:
>
> Does the mechanical fuel pump have a spring loaded diaphragm to move the
> fuel? If so perhaps the is allowing a small fluid flow with the Facet
> pump pulses.
>
> Does the flow sensor have a bi-phase electrical output (ie two outputs
> with 90 degree phase shift)? If it does then some extra logic could be
> employed to subtract rather than add the reverse flow.
>
> Doug
>
>>
>> Sam,
>> Wouldn't the fuel have to be compressible to get a flow alternating between
>> forward and backward thru the flow sensor when the pump is running? This, of
>> course, is assuming (as you pointed out) the carburetor float valve is doing
>> its job so that any head of air in the carb bowl is not being compressed.
>> Dale Ensing
>>> The explanation I have heard for the flow rate "increase" while the pump
>>> is running involves the design of the flow sensor. It uses an optical
>>> sensor and rotating vanes in order to send pulses to the flowmeter which
>>> then are counted so flow rate can be calculated. When the pump is running,
>>> it causes the fuel flow to alternate in a forward and backward motion
>>> which causes the sensor to generate extra pulses. I assume a rotary pump
>>> would not cause these errors but those of us with the Facet diaphragm pump
>>> see the error.
>>>
>>> I don't see how the fuel level in the carb would vary provided the carb is
>>> receiving adequate flow and the float and needle are functioning properly.
>>>
>>> Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Fund Raiser - 2006 List of Contributors |
Dear Listers,
I would like to thank everyone that made a Contribution in support of the Lists
this year! It was really nice to hear all great comments people had regarding
the Lists! As I have said many times before, running these Lists is a labor
of love. Your generosity during the List Fund Raiser only underscores the great
sentiments people have made regarding the Lists.
If you haven't yet made a Contribution in support of this year's Fund Raiser please
feel free to do so. The nice List gifts will be available on the site for
just a little while longer, so hurry and make your Contribution and get your
great gift. Once again, the URL for the Contribution web site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises ( http://www.kitlog.com ), Jon Croke of Homebuilt HELP ( http://www.homebuilthelp.com ) and Bob Nuckolls of AeroElectric ( http://www.aeroelectric.com ) for their extremely generous support during this year's Fund Raiser through the contribution of merchandise. These are great guys that support the aviation industry and I encourage each and every Lister to have a look at their products. Thank you Andy, Paul, Jon and Bob!! Your support is very much appreciated!
And finally, below you will find a web link to the 2006 List of Contributors current
as of 12/7/06! Have a look at this list of names as these are the people
that make all of these List services possible! I can't thank each of you enough
for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund Raiser!
THANK YOU!
http://www.matronics.com/loc/2006.html
I will be shipping out all of the gifts in the next few weeks and hope to have
everything out by the end of the month. In most cases, gifts will be shipped
via US Postal Service. Kitlog Pro serial numbers should go out via email this
weekend.
Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Newhall II" <renewhall2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Colorado CFI for RV7 available |
I would like to offer my CFI services (and airplane)
to the list for RV7 transition training in Colorado.
I am located at Longmont, CO (KLMO). My airplane is
an RV7 with an O360 Lycoming with a constant speed
prop. The rate is $140 per hour Hobbs (includes the
airplane, fuel, instructor, and any ground
instruction).
Bob Newhall, CFI, Airplane & Glider
renewhall2(at)yahoo.com
303-819-1482 cell
Cheap talk?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Colorado CFI for RV7 available |
Having done recurrency with Bob in his aircraft I can vouch for his capabilities,
he does a great job and you will be well prepared to fly your RV.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, Gypsy Spirit
"Robert E. Newhall II" wrote:
I would like to offer my CFI services (and airplane)
to the list for RV7 transition training in Colorado.
I am located at Longmont, CO (KLMO). My airplane is
an RV7 with an O360 Lycoming with a constant speed
prop. The rate is $140 per hour Hobbs (includes the
airplane, fuel, instructor, and any ground
instruction).
Bob Newhall, CFI, Airplane & Glider
renewhall2(at)yahoo.com
303-819-1482 cell
Cheap talk?
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernie & Margo" <ekells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Fw: Jeppesen Binder - for sale SOLD |
I have a Jeppesen Binder that has never been used. IT HAS BEEN SOLD.
Ernest Kells C-GKEL
Vans RV-9A LYC O-235-N2C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Spoken with the passion of a true convert. Question is...what took you so long?
Six years you say? Good Gawd man, were you that conflicted? Still, you did manage
to see the light and in the end, that's what counts. You were hungry and
now you are filled. Your were thirsty, and now you are slaked. Personally,
I waited about 3 whole weeks after Darla first flight to place an order for a
new tail kit. Like you, I revisited some of the sacrosanct tenants of conventional
RV builder wisdom enshrined within these archives and other hallowed places.
Primer? Only sparingly. Tailwheel? Sure...why not? Slider or tipsy....no
brainer. Engine?....one designed for an airplane.
One thing though. Don't be too hard on those folks who think matched hole construction
is the only way to build an airplane. There is something to be said
for easing tedium and simplifiying a parts count. Besides, the alternative would
be like explaining to your kid there once was a world without video games
and cell phones. Do you really think they can long endure a world without text
messaging? Its a brave new world my friend, 300 million screaming souls coast
to coast.....even for Neanderthal throwbacks like you and me. Still......I'll
have the roast duck with mango salsa. :)
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" The slow-built hard way
RV-8 wing kit The KISS principle
wnorth(at)sdccd.edu wrote:
> .....after spending the previous six years from the last I built's first flight.....I
just received another tail kit for to start all over yet again.
>
> This one is a real plane that requires real building. No stinking holes,
> matched or otherwise, no quick nothing. The auxillary wheel is in back where
it belongs with no wussy training wheels. Screw primer, acid etch, and alodine
as it's only an airplane. Sliders and tilt ups be dammed as I'll
> probably do a combination of both. The engine will be as big as I can fit in
> it and the side-by-side vs tandem arguement is moot as it only has one seat,
and that one is all mine.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p324#80324
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Colorado CFI for RV7 available |
>I almost hesitate to mention this, but I'm curious how you get around the
>"No person may operate this aircraft for carrying persons or property for
>compensation or hire" clause in the operating limitations?
Does the FAA care about SAFETY? If so, what is safer than getting someone
proficient in an aircraft before they make a first flight? Given that
safety is
#1, any rule that works against it is not worth complying with.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Reuven Silberman <pilots2(at)yahoo.com> |
Whatabout a PT6 for power? LOTS OF POWER (from the More-Power people), light weight,
and since its a slo-build you can dedicate the rest of the wing as a fuel
bay. It will be just you, fuel, a small travel toothbrush, and a vertical
climb to the flight levels and jet streams. Happy Trails to you.
Reuven Silberman
7A
Spoken with the passion of a true convert. Question is...what took you so long?
Six years you say? Good Gawd man, were you that conflicted? Still, you did manage
to see the light and in the end, that's what counts. You were hungry and
now you are filled. Your were thirsty, and now you are slaked. Personally,
I waited about 3 whole weeks after Darla first flight to place an order for a
new tail kit. Like you, I revisited some of the sacrosanct tenants of conventional
RV builder wisdom enshrined within these archives and other hallowed places.
Primer? Only sparingly. Tailwheel? Sure...why not? Slider or tipsy....no
brainer. Engine?....one designed for an airplane.
One thing though. Don't be too hard on those folks who think matched hole construction
is the only way to build an airplane. There is something to be said
for easing tedium and simplifiying a parts count. Besides, the alternative would
be like explaining to your kid there once was a world without video games
and cell phones. Do you really think they can long endure a world without text
messaging? Its a brave new world my friend, 300 million screaming souls coast
to coast.....even for Neanderthal throwbacks like you and me. Still......I'll
have the roast duck with mango salsa. :)
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" The slow-built hard way
RV-8 wing kit The KISS principle
wnorth(at)sdccd.edu wrote:
> .....after spending the previous six years from the last I built's first flight.....I
just received another tail kit for to start all over yet again.
>
> This one is a real plane that requires real building. No stinking holes,
> matched or otherwise, no quick nothing. The auxillary wheel is in back where
it belongs with no wussy training wheels. Screw primer, acid etch, and alodine
as it's only an airplane. Sliders and tilt ups be dammed as I'll
> probably do a combination of both. The engine will be as big as I can fit in
> it and the side-by-side vs tandem arguement is moot as it only has one seat,
and that one is all mine.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p324#80324
"No pressure, no diamonds".
~Thomas Carlyle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill shook <billshook2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Colorado CFI for RV7 available |
Nothing is ever a legal problem until something goes wrong. Say the engine fails
and
the paying customer gets hurt in the crash landing....a lawyer would have a field
day
with the CFI in court. If you ever see a lawyer walk into a courtroom smiling
from ear
to ear..chances are there is someone at the other table using this type of logic.
I
hope he is very well insured. That being said, thank god for the CFI's willing
to do
this.
Bill
> He charges $10/hr to split the gas and $130/hr for his CFI time? He is
> for hire, not the plane? There're a lot more tortured machinations that
> occur with regulations than that interpretation. But the arrangement
> seems like a safe, effective and reasonably economical way to encourage
> and enhance pilot training so, I would have to think the FAA would be
> against it.
>
> Chuck Jensen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
List,
I just did my first annual condition inspection. When I checked the
timing I referenced the Lycoming Operators Manual, under specifications,
and set the timing to the 20 degrees that it called for. On a ground
test run I was not happy with the way it ran and suspected the timing
was incorrectly set. A search of the list archives and a check of the
Lycoming web site offered no help. So...I made a quick call to Lycoming
and the advice I got was "what does it say on the data plate"? Duh! I
felt a bit stupid but there it was, plain as day, "25 degrees".
I just wanted to get this in the archives so the next guy won't have the
same problem.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV-8, 74 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | static line routing? |
I'm looking for missed details before I start riveting the side skins on
the fuselage. One thing I can't find is the path of the static line
through the seat back bulkhead (705?) & forward to the instrument panel.
The area just under the main longeron looks pretty busy at F705 & I
can't find any notes on where the line should be routed after the middle
of the baggage compartment. What am I missing?
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glaesers" <glaesers(at)wideopenwest.com> |
| Subject: | Re: static line routing? |
I don't think you missed anything - this was discussed a while back and the
plans don't show a static line hole in F705. I drilled a 1/4" hole as far
outboard and high as I could get. Due to the thickness of the material in
that area, I don't see the need for a bushing to protect the static line
through that hole. Then I ran it along the canopy rail.
Dennis Glaeser
RV7A Finishing kit
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------
From: Charlie England (ceengland(at)bellsouth.net)
Date: Sat Dec 09 - 10:30 AM
I'm looking for missed details before I start riveting the side skins on
the fuselage. One thing I can't find is the path of the static line
through the seat back bulkhead (705?) & forward to the instrument panel.
The area just under the main longeron looks pretty busy at F705 & I
can't find any notes on where the line should be routed after the middle
of the baggage compartment. What am I missing?
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
> PS, I've been drooling about it for a few years but the umpteenth review
> of
> Lervold's website finally pushed me over the edge.
Wheeler,
Welcome to the ranks of a most distinct minority... RV-3 builders! There are
not many of us around so we need to stick together. Needless to say I've
just been down the road you are now starting on so don't be a stranger. I've
tried to document most of the gotchas on my web site but there is still more
advice to be had if you are actually building.
Feel free to give me a ring directly some time, there are several of us -3
guys that talk on the phone once in a while on various issues. What part of
the country are you in? Oh, I'm sure you're aware of the RV-3 forum over on
Vansairforce.net, the Matronics RV-3 list doesn't seem to get much use.
Glad I was able to contribute to your delinquency...
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
RV-3B #11375, almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine timing |
Small explanation of why you have to reference the data plate. Lycoming
about 30 years ago had a problem with cylinder heads flying off of a few
IO-360s with very old cylinders, in cold weather, where the engine was
producing more than rated power. So they decided to retard the timing
for IO360s from 25 to 20, which meant the impulse coupling or retard
breaker also had to be advanced 5 degrees so you still start at TDC.
They did this through a Service Instruction.
I don't know that they changed anything for the 8.5 compression engines
like the O-360. On most newer IO360s you will find 20 degrees called
for, but older ones take 25(and produce more power).
Steve Struyk wrote:
> List,
>
> I just did my first annual condition inspection. When I checked the
> timing I referenced the Lycoming Operators Manual, under
> specifications, and set the timing to the 20 degrees that it called
> for. On a ground test run I was not happy with the way it ran and
> suspected the timing was incorrectly set. A search of the list
> archives and a check of the Lycoming web site offered no help. So...I
> made a quick call to Lycoming and the advice I got was "what does it
> say on the data plate"? Duh! I felt a bit stupid but there it was,
> plain as day, "25 degrees".
>
> I just wanted to get this in the archives so the next guy won't have
> the same problem.
>
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles, MO
> RV-8, 74 hours
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | SL15 Intercom problem |
Hi folks,
I have finally got around to having two people in my airplane with headsets
on. I have no intercom at all. I have the SL15M with jacks wired to the
panel. There are two PTT buttons wired off the jacks. One is on the panel
(co-pilot) the other on the stick for the pilot. My headsets are Bose.
There is no side tone in the headset unless you press the PTT button. I am
reading something in the SL15 installation book about when the PTT are
installed between the jack and the headset where it would need to be
modified. I am not real good at this stuff, so not sure what is going on.
Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.
Tim
RV-6
N616TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
solutions.
After plugging every possible hole I could find in my baffling here are
the
results. Yesterday was quite cool here in East Texas and a flight was
in
order. After take off I climbed over the lake at the end of the runway
and
noticed the CHT on # 3 was over 400. By the time I reached 2500=92 AGL
the
temp was at 446 degrees so I leveled off and allowed it to settle out.
After a few minutes the temps came down to about 406 but was about the
same
on 2, 3, and 4. I landed and removed the top cowl so I could block off
the
oil cooler by about =BD of the distance exposed. After another short
flight
the temps did not go above 412 on climb and then about 402 on cruise.
The
big difference was now cylinder #4 is the hottest. The oil temp climbed
from around 154 to 182 so this was positive for this time of year. My
oil
cooler is mounted to the back baffle on the left side of the engine.
I am at a bit of a loss for why the temps will not come down. One of
the
solutions offered was to add louvers to my lower cowl to increase exit
air
area. I am willing to do this but have some reservations. Increasing
exit
air would increase air flow through the cowl but should increase drag
and
therefore performance. How significant would this be? Obviously I
would be
willing to give up a little performance if I can keep it cool. Also it
seems odd that hundreds, maybe thousands of RV=92s are flying and
staying cool
enough without louvers and so I wonder what else I may be leaving
unchecked.
I am convinced I have no leaks at this point. Here is what I have done:
Closed up all leaks in baffling especially around the front and around
the
upper ramps.
Added a deflector in front of cylinder # 1
RTV around every crack or seam where air could exit
Plugged a big hole between the case and #3 in front of dipstick housing
Blocked the heater exit on the right side of plane as it was pulling air
from #3 ( I have two heater muffs.)
My baffle is very tight and I see no areas where there could be a leak.
I
do notice the area above the cylinder on the right side is much less
since
the cylinder is further forward and under the upper ramp. Maybe this
could
be modified to raise the upper ramp some and equal this out.
Because my temps change accordingly when I takeoff, cruise, and land I
think
the probes are at least responding. I also think since blocking the oil
cooler caused a change and now #4 is hottest indicates they must be
working.
There is no setting on these that I am aware of, but maybe I should have
the
system checked out by Vision Microsystems to verify they are reading
correctly.
Thanks for any help
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Tim,
What speeds are you using for climb out?
How many hours on your engine?
Which engine do you have, and which airframe?
Apologies if you've posted all of this information previously.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Bryan
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
solutions. After plugging every possible hole I could find in my
baffling here are the results. Yesterday was quite cool here in East
Texas and a flight was in order. After take off I climbed over the lake
at the end of the runway and noticed the CHT on # 3 was over 400. By
the time I reached 2500' AGL the temp was at 446 degrees so I leveled
off and allowed it to settle out. After a few minutes the temps came
down to about 406 but was about the same on 2, 3, and 4. I landed and
removed the top cowl so I could block off the oil cooler by about =BD of
the distance exposed. After another short flight the temps did not go
above 412 on climb and then about 402 on cruise. The big difference was
now cylinder #4 is the hottest. The oil temp climbed from around 154 to
182 so this was positive for this time of year. My oil cooler is
mounted to the back baffle on the left side of the engine.
I am at a bit of a loss for why the temps will not come down. One of
the solutions offered was to add louvers to my lower cowl to increase
exit air area. I am willing to do this but have some reservations.
Increasing exit air would increase air flow through the cowl but should
increase drag and therefore performance. How significant would this be?
Obviously I would be willing to give up a little performance if I can
keep it cool. Also it seems odd that hundreds, maybe thousands of RV's
are flying and staying cool enough without louvers and so I wonder what
else I may be leaving unchecked. I am convinced I have no leaks at this
point. Here is what I have done:
Closed up all leaks in baffling especially around the front and around
the upper ramps.
Added a deflector in front of cylinder # 1
RTV around every crack or seam where air could exit
Plugged a big hole between the case and #3 in front of dipstick
housing
Blocked the heater exit on the right side of plane as it was pulling
air from #3 ( I have two heater muffs.)
My baffle is very tight and I see no areas where there could be a
leak. I do notice the area above the cylinder on the right side is much
less since the cylinder is further forward and under the upper ramp.
Maybe this could be modified to raise the upper ramp some and equal this
out.
Because my temps change accordingly when I takeoff, cruise, and land I
think the probes are at least responding. I also think since blocking
the oil cooler caused a change and now #4 is hottest indicates they must
be working. There is no setting on these that I am aware of, but maybe
I should have the system checked out by Vision Microsystems to verify
they are reading correctly.
Thanks for any help
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
>If you have verified the probe monitor for accuracy I would do that.
I had high oil temps and CHT and opening the cowl and adding
louvers dropped them a lot. I doubt that any speed reduction
is measurable.
Obviously check in to other factors (mag timing etc).
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
>
>Blocked the heater exit on the right side of plane as it was pulling air
>from #3 ( I have two heater muffs.)
I also had two heater muffs with the flow blocking scat tubes.
That was my first change (remove the extra heater muff and tubes) and that
helped as well.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
In a message dated 12/10/2006 11:33:56 AM Central Standard Time,
n616tb(at)btsapps.com writes:
I should have the system checked out by Vision Microsystems to verify they
are reading correctly.
>>>
I don't recall if you mentioned it earlier, but have you checked the probes
in boiling water to see if they read around 212F? Pretty sure you could heat
some oil hotter and dip the tips of the probes into it (verify with
cooking/candy thermometer). I've never tried this, but sound reasonable?
Might also try blocking one or both of the heat muffs- these are normally
huge short-circuits around your baffles if they flow all the time- far more than
all those little leaks you plugged up.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
Hi Kyle,
I use 110 Mph on climb out
I have 24 hours on my RV-6
O-360 A1A with Hartzell constant speed
No problem
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
Tim,
What speeds are you using for climb out?
How many hours on your engine?
Which engine do you have, and which airframe?
Apologies if you've posted all of this information previously.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Bryan <mailto:n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
solutions.
After plugging every possible hole I could find in my baffling here are
the
results. Yesterday was quite cool here in East Texas and a flight was
in
order. After take off I climbed over the lake at the end of the runway
and
noticed the CHT on # 3 was over 400. By the time I reached 2500=92 AGL
the
temp was at 446 degrees so I leveled off and allowed it to settle out.
After a few minutes the temps came down to about 406 but was about the
same
on 2, 3, and 4. I landed and removed the top cowl so I could block off
the
oil cooler by about =BD of the distance exposed. After another short
flight
the temps did not go above 412 on climb and then about 402 on cruise.
The
big difference was now cylinder #4 is the hottest. The oil temp climbed
from around 154 to 182 so this was positive for this time of year. My
oil
cooler is mounted to the back baffle on the left side of the engine.
I am at a bit of a loss for why the temps will not come down. One of
the
solutions offered was to add louvers to my lower cowl to increase exit
air
area. I am willing to do this but have some reservations. Increasing
exit
air would increase air flow through the cowl but should increase drag
and
therefore performance. How significant would this be? Obviously I
would be
willing to give up a little performance if I can keep it cool. Also it
seems odd that hundreds, maybe thousands of RV=92s are flying and
staying cool
enough without louvers and so I wonder what else I may be leaving
unchecked.
I am convinced I have no leaks at this point. Here is what I have done:
Closed up all leaks in baffling especially around the front and around
the
upper ramps.
Added a deflector in front of cylinder # 1
RTV around every crack or seam where air could exit
Plugged a big hole between the case and #3 in front of dipstick housing
Blocked the heater exit on the right side of plane as it was pulling air
from #3 ( I have two heater muffs.)
My baffle is very tight and I see no areas where there could be a leak.
I
do notice the area above the cylinder on the right side is much less
since
the cylinder is further forward and under the upper ramp. Maybe this
could
be modified to raise the upper ramp some and equal this out.
Because my temps change accordingly when I takeoff, cruise, and land I
think
the probes are at least responding. I also think since blocking the oil
cooler caused a change and now #4 is hottest indicates they must be
working.
There is no setting on these that I am aware of, but maybe I should have
the
system checked out by Vision Microsystems to verify they are reading
correctly.
Thanks for any help
Tim
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
iga
tor?RV-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
I was thinking about the timing issue. It runs great, but I have not
checked it. Honestly it has been so long since I have done this I am not
sure I remember how. I may need to find someone to give me a refresher and
check it.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
If you have verified the probe monitor for accuracy I would do that.
I had high oil temps and CHT and opening the cowl and adding
louvers dropped them a lot. I doubt that any speed reduction
is measurable.
Obviously check in to other factors (mag timing etc).
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
My heater outlets are a series of holes about 3/8 inch. I have maybe 5 or 6
of them in the baffle, plus the heat muff has smaller holes to slow the air
down. I blocked the outlet on the right side behind #3 with tape and it
made no difference. I could block the other one for a test.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
Blocked the heater exit on the right side of plane as it was pulling air
from #3 ( I have two heater muffs.)
I also had two heater muffs with the flow blocking scat tubes.
That was my first change (remove the extra heater muff and tubes) and that
helped as well.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
No, I haven't but suppose it would be viable. Do the probes respond the
same in water as they would in just the air? This would be a valid test I
think. I did block one heat muff robbing air outlet with no change.
Thanks
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
In a message dated 12/10/2006 11:33:56 AM Central Standard Time,
n616tb(at)btsapps.com writes:
I should have the system checked out by Vision Microsystems to verify they
are reading correctly.
>>>
I don't recall if you mentioned it earlier, but have you checked the probes
in boiling water to see if they read around 212F? Pretty sure you could
heat some oil hotter and dip the tips of the probes into it (verify with
cooking/candy thermometer). I've never tried this, but sound reasonable?
Might also try blocking one or both of the heat muffs- these are normally
huge short-circuits around your baffles if they flow all the time- far more
than all those little leaks you plugged up.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy Cole <gsc(at)digiburo.com> |
| Subject: | WTB RV8 (consider RV7) |
Hello, I would like to buy a nice day/night IFR capable RV-8 to fly
while my own project assembles itself (or some other miracle).
I was thinking 180HP, fuel injected, constant speed, nice radios.
Also consider RV-7, but I'm a big guy and that probably won't work out.
Email description, price and pix to guycole(at)gmail.com
Thanks for reading.
--
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Guy Cole (KQ6J) * "Expert Plain And Fancy Bit Twiddling"
"Part of the thundering herd of computer nerds in Silicon Valley, USA"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
At 12:27 PM 12/10/2006, you wrote:
>My heater outlets are a series of holes about 3/8 inch. I have maybe 5 or
>6 of them in the baffle, plus the heat muff has smaller holes to slow the
>air down. I blocked the outlet on the right side behind #3 with tape and
>it made no difference. I could block the other one for a test.
Did you remove the tubing. That impedes the efficient flow of air.
Another point is that your engine may not be broken in yet.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
In a message dated 12/10/2006 1:31:58 PM Central Standard Time,
n616tb(at)btsapps.com writes:
Do the probes respond the same in water as they would in just the air?
I would think that besides the heat transferring more quickly from the liquid
to the probe than from air, the probe would never know. Besides, having the
probe and themometer in a common container of liquid fairly well ensures they
are at the same approximate temp.
I would suggest caution how deep into the liquid you immerse the probe since
I'm not familiar with how they are sealed- just part of the metal barrel on
the end of the probe in the liquid should suffice. Possibly heat a very small
pan of peanut/canola/corn/whatever oil ("you put my good candy themometer in
USED MOTOR OIL?!?!?!") and heat until 400-425 degrees or so as indicated by the
themometer. A meat thermometer would probably work as well. Take it over to
engine where you already have the probe dangling and just dip the first
half-inch or so into the oil. I'd think you'd have it warmed up to oil temp in
20-30 seconds, but again, I've never tried this- someone else out there could
probably offer more specific advice.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Have you seen this post I made in June regarding the solution to
my High CHT problems. Check out the poll results...
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=8209
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
http://www.evorocket.com - Building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper) |
| Subject: | Re: Colorado CFI for RV7 available |
". . . a lawyer would have a field day"
No, a greedy loved one who hired that lawyer to represent them. Lawyers
can't start lawsuits on their own, their clients are the ones who decide
to sue someone.
Pete Cowper
RV-8 #81139
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | High CHT problem - Hole found |
Walter,
Yes, I did see this and I looked at it determining I did not have this
problem. I redid the baffles on a little around this front area and again
determined for what ever reason this did not apply to me. After getting
your post and looking at it I understood a little better what you were
indicating. I just went out and stuck my hands up there and just felt
around for a couple minutes. Son of a gun, I do have a leak here, mostly on
the left side of the engine. How did I miss this? Thanks again. I will be
doing some glass work tomorrow. I know this has been brought up several
times, but if this does the trick, I owe you something cold whenever I meet
you.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 3:22 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
>
>
> Have you seen this post I made in June regarding the solution to
> my High CHT problems. Check out the poll results...
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=8209
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
> http://www.evorocket.com - Building
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High CHT problem - Hole found |
On 12/10 4:12, Tim Bryan wrote:
> I know this has been brought up several times, but if this does the trick,
> I owe you something cold whenever I meet you.
If the poll results apply here then you have an 80% chance of improving
your cooling. And I'm pretty thirsty :)
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
http://www.evorocket.com - Building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
Fellow listers,
I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn the
tap in one turn at a time.
The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
1/4x28 tap.
After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
Ralph,
I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the
buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if
I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods.
Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>
> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn
> the
> tap in one turn at a time.
> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
> 1/4x28 tap.
> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
> it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
Ralph:
I put the tube(s) in a vice (covered it with some duct tape first)...I'd
turn the tap and if the tube started to turn, I gave the vice a crank. I
did short amounts of tapping, and then backed the tap off...and kept
repeating. The tube didn't collapse in the pressure of the vice and it came
out OK. It was a bit of a P-I-T-A.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
Fellow listers,
I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn the
tap in one turn at a time.
The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
1/4x28 tap.
After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
You are right, every tap has one recommended correct drill size. Be sure to
use oil when you work with the tap. Stop every 1/2 turn or so and back up a
little bit to clear the metal. Go forward another 1/2 to 1 turn and back up
again to break free the metal. That is how I did it and it worked ok. I
like to put some rubber tubing about the part and put in a vice to hold it
securely. Larry in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>
> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn
> the tap in one turn at a time.
> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
> 1/4x28 tap.
> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
> it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
> it.
If you don't have access to a lathe, you could do what I did...
I used the rubber pads on my vise jaws. Clamped the tubing in the vise the
long way, to maximize how much area was held by the vise. Lube the tap
liberally. Worked for me.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1150 hours)
www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
Ralph,
I have a drill press vise that has a V-groove to hold the tube exactly(?).
Drill it with the right size for the 1/4-28 tap. Then put the tap in the drill
press, turning it by hand to run the tap in 2 or 3 turns. This will start it
straight. Then you can take it out of the drill press and finish tapping it
by hand. Use tapping fluid (thread cutting oil). The key is to get it
started straight.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A Flying 180 hours.
In a message dated 12/10/2006 7:34:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
Fellow listers,
I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn the
tap in one turn at a time.
The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
1/4x28 tap.
After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
Thanks for the info - lotsa responses really quick....
Worth my donation
More tools on order....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>
> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn
> the tap in one turn at a time.
> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
> 1/4x28 tap.
> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
> it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
This is a viable test.
I tested my CHT probes by sticking them in a can of water and heating
it to a boil with a propane torch. They all read within one degree C
of the boiling point of water. If you altitude is much different
from sea level, or the atmospheric pressure is much different from
standard, you may want to allow for the small decrease in water's
boiling with altitude. This info is available on the web in multiple
places.
Kevin Horton
On 10 Dec 2006, at 14:29, Tim Bryan wrote:
> No, I havent but suppose it would be viable. Do the probes
> respond the same in water as they would in just the air? This
> would be a valid test I think. I did block one heat muff robbing
> air outlet with no change.
>
> Thanks
>
> Tim
>
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 12:26 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
>
>
> In a message dated 12/10/2006 11:33:56 AM Central Standard Time,
> n616tb(at)btsapps.com writes:
>
> I should have the system checked out by Vision Microsystems to
> verify they are reading correctly.
>
> >>>
>
>
> I don't recall if you mentioned it earlier, but have you checked
> the probes in boiling water to see if they read around 212F?
> Pretty sure you could heat some oil hotter and dip the tips of the
> probes into it (verify with cooking/candy thermometer). I've never
> tried this, but sound reasonable?
>
>
> Might also try blocking one or both of the heat muffs- these are
> normally huge short-circuits around your baffles if they flow all
> the time- far more than all those little leaks you plugged up.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
A lath is even better since you can chuck it up horizontal on the lathe
line. I have an easy tap that allows it to tap under power with a clutch.
Unfortunately when I did mine, my smithy was already moved to Texas. I do
think getting the hole drilled straight and then getting the tap started
straight with the hole is 9/10 of the problem.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
Ralph,
I have a drill press vise that has a V-groove to hold the tube exactly(?).
Drill it with the right size for the 1/4-28 tap. Then put the tap in the
drill press, turning it by hand to run the tap in 2 or 3 turns. This will
start it straight. Then you can take it out of the drill press and finish
tapping it by hand. Use tapping fluid (thread cutting oil). The key is to
get it started straight.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A Flying 180 hours.
In a message dated 12/10/2006 7:34:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
recapen(at)earthlink.net writes:
Fellow listers,
I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn the
tap in one turn at a time.
The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
1/4x28 tap.
After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
it.
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Tim,
7 years ago when I finished my RV8, I experienced a similar problem.
After double checking all baffling etc. to no avail, I retarded the
ignition a couple of degrees and that ended the problem. Double check
the specifications and your timing equipment to make sure that it is
accurate. Good luck.
DICK Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Bryan
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 11:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
solutions. After plugging every possible hole I could find in my
baffling here are the results. Yesterday was quite cool here in East
Texas and a flight was in order. After take off I climbed over the lake
at the end of the runway and noticed the CHT on # 3 was over 400. By
the time I reached 2500' AGL the temp was at 446 degrees so I leveled
off and allowed it to settle out. After a few minutes the temps came
down to about 406 but was about the same on 2, 3, and 4. I landed and
removed the top cowl so I could block off the oil cooler by about =BD of
the distance exposed. After another short flight the temps did not go
above 412 on climb and then about 402 on cruise. The big difference was
now cylinder #4 is the hottest. The oil temp climbed from around 154 to
182 so this was positive for this time of year. My oil cooler is
mounted to the back baffle on the left side of the engine.
I am at a bit of a loss for why the temps will not come down. One of
the solutions offered was to add louvers to my lower cowl to increase
exit air area. I am willing to do this but have some reservations.
Increasing exit air would increase air flow through the cowl but should
increase drag and therefore performance. How significant would this be?
Obviously I would be willing to give up a little performance if I can
keep it cool. Also it seems odd that hundreds, maybe thousands of RV's
are flying and staying cool enough without louvers and so I wonder what
else I may be leaving unchecked. I am convinced I have no leaks at this
point. Here is what I have done:
Closed up all leaks in baffling especially around the front and around
the upper ramps.
Added a deflector in front of cylinder # 1
RTV around every crack or seam where air could exit
Plugged a big hole between the case and #3 in front of dipstick
housing
Blocked the heater exit on the right side of plane as it was pulling
air from #3 ( I have two heater muffs.)
My baffle is very tight and I see no areas where there could be a
leak. I do notice the area above the cylinder on the right side is much
less since the cylinder is further forward and under the upper ramp.
Maybe this could be modified to raise the upper ramp some and equal this
out.
Because my temps change accordingly when I takeoff, cruise, and land I
think the probes are at least responding. I also think since blocking
the oil cooler caused a change and now #4 is hottest indicates they must
be working. There is no setting on these that I am aware of, but maybe
I should have the system checked out by Vision Microsystems to verify
they are reading correctly.
Thanks for any help
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Using Alternate Oil Filter |
Those of you using the Wix 51068 Oil Filter on the Lycoming engines, please
advise how to get a 3/4"-16 threaded fitting, since the ones on the Champions
appear to be crimped on. Am I missing something obvious here?
-Thx
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 823hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <jmsears(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
>> A lath is even better since you can chuck it up horizontal on the lathe
>> line. I have an easy tap that allows it to tap under power with a
>> clutch. Unfortunately when I did mine, my smithy was already moved to
>> Texas. I do think getting the hole drilled straight and then getting the
>> tap started straight with the hole is 9/10 of the problem.<<
Tim is right, it would be much easier to do this with a lathe. This makes
the second time that I've seen a lathe recommended in the last couple of
weeks, or so. Fortunately, Van's parts don't require the use of a lathe.
I'm betting very few of his customers have lathes; and, the rest don't want
to buy them to complete their projects. Most of us figure out how to do the
tasks without one. Now, if one were maunufacturing his own RV parts with
plans, only, that would be a different matter. I'm thankful that I don't
have to do that.
When I did the pushrods on my -6A, my problem wasn't doing the tapping. It
was getting a tight fit on the threads of the bearing. There was a little
play between the bearing and rod, which made the fit as it if was worn out
before it was ever used. As it turned out, the tap I had was a cheap one
that made bad threads. It was fine for building model airplanes; but, it
needed to be a little better for full size construction. I went to the
local industrial supply store and got a good one. Problem solved.
Fortunately, good taps are available to all of us at reasonable prices, if
one needs one. I think Avery is one of those sources, if one doesn't have
an industrial supply store at hand.
Someone mentioned the hex rod that's already threaded. Now, that may be a
better suggestion than threading the tube that comes with some of the older
kits. It appears to be much stiffer than the older version and costs
little. Personally, I'd make that my first choice. I'm not one of those
"perfect" pilots; so, I sometimes let Scooter get a little out of the white
arc after I've dropped the flaps. I cringe when I do that. I don't have
hex tubes on Scooter's flap actuator. :-(
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Project on hold due to laziness)
EAA Tech counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Using Alternate Oil Filter |
It'll come out. On one of your old champion filters, double nut the nipple
on the filter and wrench it off. You'll have to do this every time you
change the filter but its no big deal to do.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On 12/11/06, Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Those of you using the Wix 51068 Oil Filter on the Lycoming engines,
> please advise how to get a 3/4"-16 threaded fitting, since the ones on the
> Champions appear to be crimped on. Am I missing something obvious here?
>
> -Thx
>
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 823hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Continuation on High CHT problem |
I had similar problems on my O-320 RV6A even though I had a very tight
plenum. In desperation I removed the plenum which did no good. A week later
I read an article in one of the main aviation magazines about casting flash
and roughness in the cylinder fins and around the spark plug. About an hours
work with a small rat tail file in the dremmel and my problems were gone.
There have been several posts about this in the past two years. Not sure how
to find the article but I can give you all the details off line if needed.
John Furey
john(at)fureychrysler.com
330-495-5189
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Hi Tim-
>I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
>solutions.
I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate
clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the
opportunity to fly yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you
need a bit of a gap between the fins and the baffles.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Tapping flap pushrod |
Hi Ralph-
>I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
To expand a tad on what's already been written, I clamped my tubing in the
vise horizontally between two blocks of pine. I drilled the tube out with
a hand drill and plenty of lube. The geometry / depth of the hole makes it
pretty much self aligning. Anytime the tube would start to slip, I'd give
the vise another crank. Same process tapping. Just don't get any lube in
the grip area. By the time I was done, the pine blocks had an almost 180
deg trough in them, but there was no discernable deformation of the tube.
No problemo!
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
In a message dated 12/11/2006 10:32:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net writes:
Hi Tim-
>I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
>solutions.
I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate
clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the
opportunity to fly yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you
need a bit of a gap between the fins and the baffles.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
I don't think this is correct, Glen.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Tim,
You do, of course, need adequate space for the cooling air to escape at the
bottom of each cylinder. I think I have about 2 or 2 1/2 inches. Also, you
should have an inter-cylinder baffle between each pair of cylinders. You do
have these, don't you?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 12/11/2006 11:07:37 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:
In a message dated 12/11/2006 10:32:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net writes:
Hi Tim-
>I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
>solutions.
I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate
clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the
opportunity to fly yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you
need a bit of a gap between the fins and the baffles.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
I don't think this is correct, Glen.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Tapping flap pushrod |
I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running
horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round
tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it,
but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you
want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else
wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a
back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over.
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
Ralph,
I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the
buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if
I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods.
Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod
>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>
> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn
> the
> tap in one turn at a time.
> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
> 1/4x28 tap.
> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
> it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
--
3:41 PM
--
3:41 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Settle <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Continuation on High CHT problem |
John,
What brand of cylinders do you have, and did the article mention whether or not
one brand was more problematic than another?
Bill
-8 Wings
>
> From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
> Date: 2006/12/11 Mon AM 09:01:38 EST
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Continuation on High CHT problem
>
> I had similar problems on my O-320 RV6A even though I had a very tight
> plenum. In desperation I removed the plenum which did no good. A week later
> I read an article in one of the main aviation magazines about casting flash
> and roughness in the cylinder fins and around the spark plug. About an hours
> work with a small rat tail file in the dremmel and my problems were gone.
> There have been several posts about this in the past two years. Not sure how
> to find the article but I can give you all the details off line if needed.
>
> John Furey
> john(at)fureychrysler.com
> 330-495-5189
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
Maybe this is about insuring a small gap between the rear baffle and
cylinder number 4. I recall that an 1/8" gap is required, which can be
achieved by making a washer or spacer out of aluminum stock.
Terry
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
In a message dated 12/11/2006 10:32:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net writes:
Hi Tim-
>I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and
>solutions.
I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate
clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the
opportunity to fly yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you
need a bit of a gap between the fins and the baffles.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
I don't think this is correct, Glen.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
I must agree this does not sound right. My head temps were going up slowly
over a period of time and I though I had better take a looksee. What I foun
d was loose cylinder baffles the ones that wrap around the cylinder. I tigh
tened them up and my temps went back to normal.=0A =0AScott Bilinski=0ARV-8
a=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: "Hopperdhh(at)aol.com" <Ho
pperdhh(at)aol.com>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, December 11, 2
006 8:02:04 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
=0A=0A=0AIn a message dated 12/11/2006 10:32:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, a
cek" =0A=0AHi Tim-=0A=0A>I reported on these earli
er and received lots of great info and =0A>solutions.=0A=0AI haven't notice
d anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate=0Aclearance between th
e baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the=0Aopportunity to fly
yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you=0Aneed a bit of a ga
p between the fins and the baffles.=0A=0A=0Aglen matejcek=0Aaerobubba@earth
link.net=0AI don't think this is correct, Glen.=0A =0ADan Hopper=0ARV-7A 20
====================0A=0A=0A =0A_____
___________________________________________________________________________
____=0AHave a burning question? =0AGo to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get ans
wers from real people who know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | RE: Continuation on High CHT problem |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
I don't think I will have a problem with this as I
have a full size lathe and a mill in my basement. If
anyone wants to take advantage of this, feel free to
email me. It would not be a problem to do this
tapping. Just pay shipping.
Dave Nellis
--- "Ralph E. Capen" wrote:
>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap
> links.
>
> First, I tried just running the tap through - the
> tap and tube would just
> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit
> slightly smaller than
> recommended for the tap - more successful, except
> that I could only turn the
> tap in one turn at a time.
> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size
> drill bit (#3) for the
> 1/4x28 tap.
> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure
> what ails me.
>
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the
> tube while I'm tapping
> it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> provided
> www.buildersbooks.com
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
Want to start your own business?
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | GX60 & MX20 updates |
Wow, I just got a cost to subscribe to the update service for my GX60 and
MX20. I was shocked to learn it is $530 bucks a year via the skybound
service at Jeppesen. A one time update can be had for 115 bucks for the
GX60. What is everyone else doing? Are you updating once a year, twice, or
just paying the subscription price?
Come to think of it, the MX20 gets its data from the GPS, so why is there a
database in both of them? The mx is supposed to be an MFD which should only
be a display.
Thanks
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tapping flap pushrod |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Ralph,
Contact Dave at 302-437-6087. Tell him what RV model you are making and what
length. He will tap these out of aluminum or stainless steel. The neat thing
about stainless is that it is stronger, more corrosion resistant and polishes
up nice. OK, it adds 1/2 ounce to the total weight of the plane! So what. Go
for the stainless!
Zack
recapen(at)earthlink.net wrote:
> Fellow listers,
>
> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>
> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just
> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in.
> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than
> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn the
> tap in one turn at a time.
> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the
> 1/4x28 tap.
> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me.
>
> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping
> it.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated,
> Ralph Capen
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p861#80861
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin & Chris" <av.8(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Using Alternate Oil Filter |
Seeing that I am using Shell's semi-synthetic 15-50 aviation oil, I figured
that using the latest technology oil filter would be a good match for the
oil. With that in mind, I bought the latest Amsoil automotive filter, but
had to get an adaptor to mate the female oil filter thread to the female oil
filter boss on the Lycoming pad. Lycoming happen to have such an adaptor,
but not for the thread size of the Amsoil filter. I went to a friend that
runs an engineering shop, showed him the Lycoming adaptor and the oil
filter, and he machined one up. I haven't done an oil analysis as yet, but
hopeful of the next one showing less wear particles than the last.
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GX60 & MX20 updates |
Tim,
I've been waiting for someone else to scream about this.
I have the exact same equipment in my 6A (not flying yet). I have spare cards
for both and a reader that allows me to create an image of all of my software
so I know that I can back it up and store it on my PC hard disk. I was planning
to eventually go with the subscription (I already have the skybound USB downloader
gizmo) - but that will be right before I fly.
My understanding is that the MX20 does get it's position info from the GX60. The
GX60 doesn't have terrain data which the MX superimposes. The MX20 can also
display stuff that is not current in the GX60 - like where your destination
and flight plan / waypoints. The GX60 will get to them when you get there - but
the MX 20 can show you them now. ***My understanding*** If I'm wrong, please
correct me!
Maybe we need a MX20/GX60 users group...undocumented......
My .02,
Ralph
-----Forwarded Message-----
>From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
>Sent: Dec 11, 2006 3:49 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>
>
>Wow, I just got a cost to subscribe to the update service for my GX60 and
>MX20. I was shocked to learn it is $530 bucks a year via the skybound
>service at Jeppesen. A one time update can be had for 115 bucks for the
>GX60. What is everyone else doing? Are you updating once a year, twice, or
>just paying the subscription price?
>
>Come to think of it, the MX20 gets its data from the GPS, so why is there a
>database in both of them? The mx is supposed to be an MFD which should only
>be a display.
>
>Thanks
>Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GX60 & MX20 updates |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
I just did an update on the 480 GPS and MX20. The database for the MX
is mostly terrain ($125), which doesn't change very often (unless you're
in KY and they keep removing mountains when they mine coal). The only
reason I updated the MX20 was I had v5.1 operating software and they
were up to v5.7, though I'm not sure I can tell the difference (refresh
rates are still measured in glacier-time). Because of the minor terrain
changes, I'll probably do it only once every few years.
On the other hand, I hadn't updated the 480 for almost 3 years and did a
one time update for something stupid like $225. Since there were a lot
of NDBs decommissioned and quite a few GPS approaches added in the last
three years, I thought it timely to update. Just to be legal, I carry
the current paper approach plates and enroute charts, but those are used
for advance briefing and monitoring the approach, while the A/P usually
flies it hooked to the GPS.
Jeppesen obsesses over the idea that someone may be able to sneak a free
upgrade somehow. Of course, to protect against that, they add multiple
levels of theft protection---which adds multiple layers of annoyance.
Jeppesen's position that two GPS in the same plane requires two full
subscriptions (less some small discount that could comfortably fit in a
thimble) is pretty cheeky, especially since we can only use one GPS at a
time---have you every tried looking at two at once! If anyone comes out
with a competing database, they have my business!
As Dan Checkoway commented when this opportunity came up in an earlier
discussion, "Mmmmmmm........"
Go to it, Dan!!!
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
Tim,
I've been waiting for someone else to scream about this.
I have the exact same equipment in my 6A (not flying yet). I have spare
cards for both and a reader that allows me to create an image of all of
my software so I know that I can back it up and store it on my PC hard
disk. I was planning to eventually go with the subscription (I already
have the skybound USB downloader gizmo) - but that will be right before
I fly.
My understanding is that the MX20 does get it's position info from the
GX60. The GX60 doesn't have terrain data which the MX superimposes.
The MX20 can also display stuff that is not current in the GX60 - like
where your destination and flight plan / waypoints. The GX60 will get
to them when you get there - but the MX 20 can show you them now. ***My
understanding*** If I'm wrong, please correct me!
Maybe we need a MX20/GX60 users group...undocumented......
My .02,
Ralph
-----Forwarded Message-----
>From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
>Sent: Dec 11, 2006 3:49 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>
>
>Wow, I just got a cost to subscribe to the update service for my GX60
>and MX20. I was shocked to learn it is $530 bucks a year via the
>skybound service at Jeppesen. A one time update can be had for 115
>bucks for the GX60. What is everyone else doing? Are you updating
>once a year, twice, or just paying the subscription price?
>
>Come to think of it, the MX20 gets its data from the GPS, so why is
>there a database in both of them? The mx is supposed to be an MFD
>which should only be a display.
>
>Thanks
>Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | GX60 & MX20 updates |
Thanks Ralph,
I absolutely love my GX60/ MX20. I just paid to have all my flight guides
updated, and then realized I shouldn't need them if I have updated info in
my panel. I thought it was expensive. I guess I should just have more than
one airplane with the same equipment to share the data between. :-)
As far as what info is in which, I really have no idea. Would make sense
that as you say the terrain data is in the MX20. Positioning comes from the
GX60 along with the route data. They told me the GX60 update consisted of
waypoints and obstacles.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 3:38 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>
>
> Tim,
> I've been waiting for someone else to scream about this.
>
> I have the exact same equipment in my 6A (not flying yet). I have spare
> cards for both and a reader that allows me to create an image of all of my
> software so I know that I can back it up and store it on my PC hard disk.
> I was planning to eventually go with the subscription (I already have the
> skybound USB downloader gizmo) - but that will be right before I fly.
>
> My understanding is that the MX20 does get it's position info from the
> GX60. The GX60 doesn't have terrain data which the MX superimposes. The
> MX20 can also display stuff that is not current in the GX60 - like where
> your destination and flight plan / waypoints. The GX60 will get to them
> when you get there - but the MX 20 can show you them now. ***My
> understanding*** If I'm wrong, please correct me!
>
> Maybe we need a MX20/GX60 users group...undocumented......
>
> My .02,
> Ralph
>
>
> -----Forwarded Message-----
> >From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> >Sent: Dec 11, 2006 3:49 PM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
> >
> >
> >Wow, I just got a cost to subscribe to the update service for my GX60 and
> >MX20. I was shocked to learn it is $530 bucks a year via the skybound
> >service at Jeppesen. A one time update can be had for 115 bucks for the
> >GX60. What is everyone else doing? Are you updating once a year, twice,
> or
> >just paying the subscription price?
> >
> >Come to think of it, the MX20 gets its data from the GPS, so why is there
> a
> >database in both of them? The mx is supposed to be an MFD which should
> only
> >be a display.
> >
> >Thanks
> >Tim
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | GX60 & MX20 updates |
Cool that is what I was hoping to hear. My MX20 was updated about a year
ago free gratis courtesy of Garmin. The GX60 maybe could be updated once a
year and be reasonable. Anybody else have thoughts?
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen
> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 4:33 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>
>
> I just did an update on the 480 GPS and MX20. The database for the MX
> is mostly terrain ($125), which doesn't change very often (unless you're
> in KY and they keep removing mountains when they mine coal). The only
> reason I updated the MX20 was I had v5.1 operating software and they
> were up to v5.7, though I'm not sure I can tell the difference (refresh
> rates are still measured in glacier-time). Because of the minor terrain
> changes, I'll probably do it only once every few years.
>
> On the other hand, I hadn't updated the 480 for almost 3 years and did a
> one time update for something stupid like $225. Since there were a lot
> of NDBs decommissioned and quite a few GPS approaches added in the last
> three years, I thought it timely to update. Just to be legal, I carry
> the current paper approach plates and enroute charts, but those are used
> for advance briefing and monitoring the approach, while the A/P usually
> flies it hooked to the GPS.
>
> Jeppesen obsesses over the idea that someone may be able to sneak a free
> upgrade somehow. Of course, to protect against that, they add multiple
> levels of theft protection---which adds multiple layers of annoyance.
> Jeppesen's position that two GPS in the same plane requires two full
> subscriptions (less some small discount that could comfortably fit in a
> thimble) is pretty cheeky, especially since we can only use one GPS at a
> time---have you every tried looking at two at once! If anyone comes out
> with a competing database, they have my business!
>
> As Dan Checkoway commented when this opportunity came up in an earlier
> discussion, "Mmmmmmm........"
>
> Go to it, Dan!!!
>
> Chuck Jensen
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 4:38 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>
>
>
> Tim,
> I've been waiting for someone else to scream about this.
>
> I have the exact same equipment in my 6A (not flying yet). I have spare
> cards for both and a reader that allows me to create an image of all of
> my software so I know that I can back it up and store it on my PC hard
> disk. I was planning to eventually go with the subscription (I already
> have the skybound USB downloader gizmo) - but that will be right before
> I fly.
>
> My understanding is that the MX20 does get it's position info from the
> GX60. The GX60 doesn't have terrain data which the MX superimposes.
> The MX20 can also display stuff that is not current in the GX60 - like
> where your destination and flight plan / waypoints. The GX60 will get
> to them when you get there - but the MX 20 can show you them now. ***My
> understanding*** If I'm wrong, please correct me!
>
> Maybe we need a MX20/GX60 users group...undocumented......
>
> My .02,
> Ralph
>
>
> -----Forwarded Message-----
> >From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> >Sent: Dec 11, 2006 3:49 PM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
> >
> >
> >Wow, I just got a cost to subscribe to the update service for my GX60
> >and MX20. I was shocked to learn it is $530 bucks a year via the
> >skybound service at Jeppesen. A one time update can be had for 115
> >bucks for the GX60. What is everyone else doing? Are you updating
> >once a year, twice, or just paying the subscription price?
> >
> >Come to think of it, the MX20 gets its data from the GPS, so why is
> >there a database in both of them? The mx is supposed to be an MFD
> >which should only be a display.
> >
> >Thanks
> >Tim
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-4 F-416 cockpit rail/F-423 side skin junction question. |
| From: | "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick(at)cox.net> |
I was wondering which way you installed your F-423 side skins on the longerons,
the plans don't seem real clear on it:
a: Make the top of the F-423 side skins flush with the top of the longerons?
b: Raise the side skins .040 so they will be flush with the top of the F-416 cockpit
rails when they are installed later?
option b would hide the F-416 cockpit rails from outside, however, the two rv-4s
I have looked at recently did it the option a way.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
RV-4
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p892#80892
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GX60 & MX20 updates |
I wish I had a fleet of airplanes with the same equipment - now that I know
how they work.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 6:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>
> Thanks Ralph,
>
> I absolutely love my GX60/ MX20. I just paid to have all my flight guides
> updated, and then realized I shouldn't need them if I have updated info in
> my panel. I thought it was expensive. I guess I should just have more
> than
> one airplane with the same equipment to share the data between. :-)
>
> As far as what info is in which, I really have no idea. Would make sense
> that as you say the terrain data is in the MX20. Positioning comes from
> the
> GX60 along with the route data. They told me the GX60 update consisted of
> waypoints and obstacles.
>
> Tim
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>> Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 3:38 PM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>>
>>
>> Tim,
>> I've been waiting for someone else to scream about this.
>>
>> I have the exact same equipment in my 6A (not flying yet). I have spare
>> cards for both and a reader that allows me to create an image of all of
>> my
>> software so I know that I can back it up and store it on my PC hard disk.
>> I was planning to eventually go with the subscription (I already have the
>> skybound USB downloader gizmo) - but that will be right before I fly.
>>
>> My understanding is that the MX20 does get it's position info from the
>> GX60. The GX60 doesn't have terrain data which the MX superimposes. The
>> MX20 can also display stuff that is not current in the GX60 - like where
>> your destination and flight plan / waypoints. The GX60 will get to them
>> when you get there - but the MX 20 can show you them now. ***My
>> understanding*** If I'm wrong, please correct me!
>>
>> Maybe we need a MX20/GX60 users group...undocumented......
>>
>> My .02,
>> Ralph
>>
>>
>> -----Forwarded Message-----
>> >From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
>> >Sent: Dec 11, 2006 3:49 PM
>> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> >Subject: RV-List: GX60 & MX20 updates
>> >
>> >
>> >Wow, I just got a cost to subscribe to the update service for my GX60
>> >and
>> >MX20. I was shocked to learn it is $530 bucks a year via the skybound
>> >service at Jeppesen. A one time update can be had for 115 bucks for the
>> >GX60. What is everyone else doing? Are you updating once a year,
>> >twice,
>> or
>> >just paying the subscription price?
>> >
>> >Come to think of it, the MX20 gets its data from the GPS, so why is
>> >there
>> a
>> >database in both of them? The mx is supposed to be an MFD which should
>> only
>> >be a display.
>> >
>> >Thanks
>> >Tim
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Using Alternate Oil Filter |
On 11 Dec 2006, at 16:20, Martin & Chris wrote:
>
>
> Seeing that I am using Shell's semi-synthetic 15-50 aviation oil, I
> figured
> that using the latest technology oil filter would be a good match
> for the
> oil. With that in mind, I bought the latest Amsoil automotive
> filter, but
> had to get an adaptor to mate the female oil filter thread to the
> female oil
> filter boss on the Lycoming pad. Lycoming happen to have such an
> adaptor,
> but not for the thread size of the Amsoil filter. I went to a
> friend that
> runs an engineering shop, showed him the Lycoming adaptor and the oil
> filter, and he machined one up. I haven't done an oil analysis as
> yet, but
> hopeful of the next one showing less wear particles than the last.
Martin - what is the rated pressure for the Amsoil filter? Lycoming
engines may produce higher oil pressures in some conditions than is
normally seen in automobile engines. I have seen several reports of
automotive oil filters bursting when installed on Lycomings, and I
have seen one report of an automotive oil cooler bursting too.
Admittedly I don't know whether these guys were running single weight
oil, or multi-grade, nor do I know the ambient temperatures that were
experienced.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Tapping flap pushrod |
On 11 Dec 2006, at 10:37, glen matejcek wrote:
>
>
> Hi Ralph-
>
>> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links.
>
> To expand a tad on what's already been written, I clamped my tubing
> in the
> vise horizontally between two blocks of pine. I drilled the tube
> out with
> a hand drill and plenty of lube. The geometry / depth of the hole
> makes it
> pretty much self aligning.
Maybe I'm proof that nothing is idiot proof, but I did manage to tap
a rod with the thread not aligned with the hole. On my next
attempts, I chucked the tube in a drill press, and turned the chuck
by hand, while holding the tap aligned with the rod. This worked
very well, as the fact that the rod was being turned meant that it
was impossible to have the tap remain misaligned on any given axis.
You do need to back up every turn or so to break the chips off. The
fact that the tap is coming up from the bottom helps the chips fall
clear without having to screw the tap all the way out. You do need
to tighten the chuck quite tightly on the rod to ensure it does not
slip.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Newhall II" <renewhall2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Colorado CFI for RV7 available |
The FAA only allows rental of an experimental for
transition training and flight reviews. The CFI/owner
needs to apply for an exemption through EAA. You can
read about it and obtain the exemption here:
http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/pr/010706_faaexemption.html
Bob
Bob Newhall, CFI, Airplane & Glider
RV7, N829RV
renewhall2(at)yahoo.com
303-819-1482 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Tapping threads |
I have had just enough experience abusing thread taps to advise anyone out
in RV land to use a thread cutting fluid when tapping. There are different
types of thread cutting fluids. pastes, etc. Some are specific to the type
of material being tapped. There are also general use fluids, pastes, etc.
for those less anal 'tapper' types {[;-).
When tapping with the correct fluid you will find that the resulting threads
will be cut much cleaner and will most likely fit a bit tighter. the fluids
job is to lubricate and provide cooling. Use lots the stuff is cheap, Taps
November 22, 2006 - December 12, 2006
RV-Archive.digest.vol-sk