RV-Archive.digest.vol-sl

December 12, 2006 - December 30, 2006



      are not.
      
      Note- Using the correct Size drill is of utmost importance for good results.
      
      When you first intoduce the tap to the hole the cutting will take very 
      little effort. As the tap straightens out and gets deeper into the hole the 
      tap will be cutting the threads deeper so the torsional loading will 
      increase. As the torsional loading increases it will be essential to avoid 
      turning the tap too much. Over loading the tap can and often will cause the 
      dreaded broken tap!:(  It might also tend to tear at the unthreaded material 
      instead of cutting as intended.
      Over loading will also run the risk of providing loose and therefore weaker 
      threads.
      Backing the tap out a few times to remove the swarf (waste cuttings) reduces 
      the chance of breakage and allows the cutting fluid to do it's job better.
      When the going gets tougher turning the tap 1/4, 1/8th or even 1/16th per 
      turn will provide the best results.
      In the case of the flap rods chances are that if you have to tighten the 
      work piece holding device near to the point of crushing the work piece you 
      are going at it a bit too aggressively.
      Don't be in a rush to get the job over with.
      
      Jim in Kelowna
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: RE: Tapping flap pushrod
> > > On 11 Dec 2006, at 10:37, glen matejcek wrote: > >> >> Hi Ralph- >> >>> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links. >> >> To expand a tad on what's already been written, I clamped my tubing in >> the >> vise horizontally between two blocks of pine. I drilled the tube out >> with >> a hand drill and plenty of lube. The geometry / depth of the hole makes >> it >> pretty much self aligning. > > Maybe I'm proof that nothing is idiot proof, but I did manage to tap a > rod with the thread not aligned with the hole. On my next attempts, I > chucked the tube in a drill press, and turned the chuck by hand, while > holding the tap aligned with the rod. This worked very well, as the fact > that the rod was being turned meant that it was impossible to have the > tap remain misaligned on any given axis. You do need to back up every > turn or so to break the chips off. The fact that the tap is coming up > from the bottom helps the chips fall clear without having to screw the > tap all the way out. You do need to tighten the chuck quite tightly on > the rod to ensure it does not slip. > > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) > Ottawa, Canada > http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: RE: Using Alternate Oil Filter
Date: Dec 12, 2006
I must have missed the early part of this thread on alternate oil filters. Would someone please enlighten me as to why the interest in alternate filters. Seems like the aviation oil filters have worked quite well for some time and I have never heard of one bursting or any of the other things that seem to be a concern with automotive filters. If the issue is cost, it seems pretty silly to me to take any risks to save the equivalent of three or at most four gallons of 100 LL every 50 hours. Just curious. -- Harry Crosby RV-6 N16CX, 293 hours -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Martin & Chris" <av.8(at)bigpond.com> > > > Seeing that I am using Shell's semi-synthetic 15-50 aviation oil, I figured > that using the latest technology oil filter would be a good match for the > oil. With that in mind, I bought the latest Amsoil automotive filter, but > had to get an adaptor to mate the female oil filter thread to the female oil > filter boss on the Lycoming pad. Lycoming happen to have such an adaptor, > but not for the thread size of the Amsoil filter. I went to a friend that > runs an engineering shop, showed him the Lycoming adaptor and the oil > filter, and he machined one up. I haven't done an oil analysis as yet, but > hopeful of the next one showing less wear particles than the last. > > Martin in Oz > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
Date: Dec 11, 2006
Yah, except that it's # 3. On the parallel valve Lycs, the fins are really shallow on one side to let it sit right next to another cylinder and the shallow side is to the rear on the right side of the airplane. When I provided a little more gap back there, # 3 cooled off about 30 or 40 degrees on our O-320. Pax, Ed Holyoke -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Watson Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:16 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem Maybe this is about insuring a small gap between the rear baffle and cylinder number 4. I recall that an 1/8" gap is required, which can be achieved by making a washer or spacer out of aluminum stock. Terry _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 8:02 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem In a message dated 12/11/2006 10:32:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, aerobubba(at)earthlink.net writes: Hi Tim- >I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and >solutions. I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the opportunity to fly yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you need a bit of a gap between the fins and the baffles. glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net I don't think this is correct, Glen. Dan Hopper RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem. www.aeroelectric.com www.buildersbooks.com www.kitlog.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2006
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Using Alternate Oil Filter
Because they work better, have an anti-drainback valve, have better filtering media, have a better bypass spring and valve, have good burst pressure specs, are proven running in Lyc's, are available locally, and cost $5.79. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On 12/12/06, HCRV6(at)comcast.net < HCRV6(at)comcast.net> wrote: > > > I must have missed the early part of this thread on alternate oil > filters. Would someone please enlighten me as to why the interest in > alternate filters. Seems like the aviation oil filters have worked quite > well for some time and I have never heard of one bursting or any of the > other things that seem to be a concern with automotive filters. If the > issue is cost, it seems pretty silly to me to take any risks to save the > equivalent of three or at most four gallons of 100 LL every 50 hours. Just > curious. > > -- > Harry Crosby > RV-6 N16CX, 293 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Brown" <romott(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re:GX60 & MX20 updates
Date: Dec 12, 2006
When I purchased my first IFR GPS (Apollo SL60), the flight manual supplement allowed updates every six months as long as data required for the flight was verified before the flight. So I purchased Jeppesen's paper chart subscription and watched for changes. Guess what - VOR's, airports, and waypoints don't change very often. Many of the changes the FAA and Jepp are so intent that we refresh every 56 days are old changes. (new control towers, changes in frequencies are often reported a couple of cycles after the fact). Other changes are a 20 feet change in DH (like our altimeters are really that accurate) - or a different location to get barometer readings from. Oh, and listening to my scanner, controllers don't even have up-to-date plates. And their radar systems don't depict IAF's for months after they are implemented. Flying into Donaldson Center, Greer approach told me I could change to advisory frequency. Somebody on the advisory frequency told me that Donaldson has a control tower, and gave me the frequency. Our tax dollars at work!!!!!! So my new plane has a Garmin 430, and since it is experimental, I wrote the operating manual - I allow updates once per year. I still verify approaches for the airports I am flying into using AOPA's downloadable plates (THANK YOU, AOPA!!!!) After 3 years, the worst error I had was the AWOS frequency changed for an airport I was flying into. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2006
From: Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: Tapping flap pushrod
I found that using my tube flaring tool to hold these pieces worked well. RapidTap cutting fluid works fine for aluminum and some kind of cut lubrication is definitely necessary. As others have said having the correct hole size before tapping is absolutely essential. Also make sure you are using a through hole tap and not a bottom hole tap. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB http://www.myrv7.com Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote: > Ralph, > > I have a drill press vise that has a V-groove to hold the tube > exactly(?). Drill it with the right size for the 1/4-28 tap. Then > put the tap in the drill press, turning it by hand to run the tap in 2 > or 3 turns. This will start it straight. Then you can take it out of > the drill press and finish tapping it by hand. Use tapping fluid > (thread cutting oil). The key is to get it started straight. > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A Flying 180 hours. > > > > In a message dated 12/10/2006 7:34:25 PM Eastern Standard Time, > recapen(at)earthlink.net writes: > > > > Fellow listers, > > I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links. > > First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube > would just > spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in. > Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than > recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could > only turn the > tap in one turn at a time. > The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) > for the > 1/4x28 tap. > After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me. > > I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm > tapping > it. > > Any suggestions would be appreciated, > Ralph Capen > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tapping flap pushrod
Date: Dec 12, 2006
From: halbenjamin(at)aol.com
I drilled a hole lengthwise through a cheap 1" x 2" piece of wood about 4 inchs long. The hole diameter was just large enough to slide the tube through. Then you can clamp it tight in a vise without distorting the tube. Hal Benjamin RV-4 Finish kit in the mail Long Island, NY -----Original Message----- From: dan(at)rvproject.com Sent: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 7:59 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping > it. If you don't have access to a lathe, you could do what I did... I used the rubber pads on my vise jaws. Clamped the tubing in the vise the long way, to maximize how much area was held by the vise. Lube the tap liberally. Worked for me. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1150 hours) www.rvproject.com ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Martin & Chris" <av.8(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: RE: Using Alternate Oil Filter
Date: Dec 13, 2006
Kevin, Harry - Like you, I was concerned about burst pressures and not having a lock wire tab on the automotive filter, but after speaking to a friend who is licenced aircraft mechanic as well as the local Amsoil distributor, I was satisfied that the filters are tested to a much higher pressure than the 100 psi that it is likely to ever see, and I used a hose clamp around the body to retain the lockwire, same as I have done many times on race-bikes. The fact that I use a multi-grade oil and live in a warm climate were just added insurance. As for penny pinching being the main reason for changing, the Amsoil filter costs me more here in Oz than the Kelly Aerospace ones that I had been using. Another 10 hours and I will drain the oil and have it analysed, then I will have a better idea if this is going to be worthwhile. Martin in Oz ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2006
Subject: Re:GX60 & MX20 updates
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
A few points, as an ex-controller. Radar facilities don't depict IAP's on the scope anyway. Some intersections may be depicted if they are important to vectoring to the approach, and an extended centerline is usually provided. Beyond that you simply cannot afford to clutter the scope with that much info. Controllers have available to them current NACO plates, not Jeppesen. I have seen ILS frequencies change, approaches added and deleted, VORs change frequencies as well as magnetic variation, runways change numbers, etc. GPS has brought about more waypoint and airport name changes than probably happened for 20 years previous and a lot of approaches have been added. The cost of every cycle updates in in the neighborhood of 100 gal of gas, more or less. Yes, I would rather have it in gas..so I use AWM's Pocket Plates that update for about $145 a year, with download updates whenever you want them. Print whatever ones you plan to use. > > > When I purchased my first IFR GPS (Apollo SL60), the flight manual > supplement allowed updates every six months as long as data required for > the > flight was verified before the flight. > > So I purchased Jeppesen's paper chart subscription and watched for > changes. > Guess what - VOR's, airports, and waypoints don't change very often. Many > of the changes the FAA and Jepp are so intent that we refresh every 56 > days > are old changes. (new control towers, changes in frequencies are often > reported a couple of cycles after the fact). Other changes are a 20 feet > change in DH (like our altimeters are really that accurate) - or a > different > location to get barometer readings from. Oh, and listening to my scanner, > controllers don't even have up-to-date plates. And their radar systems > don't depict IAF's for months after they are implemented. > > Flying into Donaldson Center, Greer approach told me I could change to > advisory frequency. Somebody on the advisory frequency told me that > Donaldson has a control tower, and gave me the frequency. Our tax dollars > at work!!!!!! > > So my new plane has a Garmin 430, and since it is experimental, I wrote > the > operating manual - I allow updates once per year. I still verify > approaches > for the airports I am flying into using AOPA's downloadable plates (THANK > YOU, AOPA!!!!) After 3 years, the worst error I had was the AWOS > frequency > changed for an airport I was flying into. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland(at)novellus.com>
Subject: First flight of N821RL
Date: Dec 12, 2006
How do you convey the exhilaration of that first flight? I have been reading posts about first flights for 4 years, 4 months, 14 days since setting my first rivet in what is now my flying RV 7A, N821RL. One way to describe my feeling is to use a phrase our teenage daughters so often use - OH, my god!!!!!! That can have as many as 24 meanings as far as I can tell, but in my case it means Unbelievable. My first flight out of E16, San Martin, California last Wednesday afternoon (12//6/06) was exactly the way it was supposed to be - Exhilarating and Uneventful. Short flight over the field for 1/2 hour, 2 landings, slow flight - nothing unexpected and very predictable, including the infamous RV Grin at shutdown. Second flight for 2 hours at cruise rpm in "the box". Slight heavy right wing and may require a little left rudder trim tab. Handles soooo smoothly and responsively. Vans, you manufacture such a great kit! Built to your plans and performs beautifully. Thank you. 22.5 more hours of learning my airplane's personality thru structured flight testing, and then I will finally get to introduce myself to the RV community at some of the flyins next year. Thanks go to Van and Vans Aircraft, Bob Nuckolls and the AeroElectic group, and the RV builders group. How did we ever build/assemble these things before the internet and chat groups? We never build these things alone, so profound thanks go to- my wife and damn good navigator Laura, friends Gary Hann, Bill Robson, Kevin Brock, and Leroy Ortega that not only helped me many nights and weekends with the hard stuff and endless riveting, but helped me get out of the couple of Builder's Block periods I found myself in over the 4 years, and of course the great EAA organization and Tech Counselors that gave me some assurance I was doing it right. Very comforting and an incredible free resource. Details: 7A, Mattituck O360 180hp, Sensenich fixed pitch prop, Garmin stack w/ 430, 327, 340, King KX 125, Dynon D10, Altrak Altitude Hold, Trio Auto Pilot, EIS 4000 engine monitor, one Mag and one Lightspeed ignition. Randy and Laura McFarland San Martin, California N821RL Flying!!! <<...OLE_Obj...>> <> <<...OLE_Obj...>> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: What's Up with Aircraft Spruce?
Date: Dec 12, 2006
I have not ordered for a while from ACS but when I tried to order online I find they now require a password and a user ID just to order something ! What next? Department of Chasing Away Customers is at it seemingly. I went to Chief and will do so in the future also. FWIW ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: First flight of N821RL
Date: Dec 13, 2006
Hi Randy, CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A >From: "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland(at)novellus.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, "'info(at)vansaircraft.com'" > >Subject: RV-List: First flight of N821RL >Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 16:43:02 -0800 > >How do you convey the exhilaration of that first flight? I have been >reading >posts about first flights for 4 years, 4 months, 14 days since setting my >first rivet in what is now my flying RV 7A, N821RL. > _________________________________________________________________ All-in-one security and maintenance for your PC. Get a free 90-day trial! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What's Up with Aircraft Spruce?
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 13, 2006
Actually, having ordered from Spruce dozens upon dozens of times, I find it pleasantly convenient to have my customer information on file so I do not have to go through the tedious procedure of entering the same information every time I place an order. Chief is okay and I order from them on occasion but they are far from perfect. On more than one occasion, a foul up in shipping has occurred generating infuriating delays when they don't have a particular item in stock and Chief has to first order it from THEIR vendor. Doesn't happen a lot but it has happened to me twice now in less than 10 total ordering experiences with Chief. I'll continue to use Chief for the occasional purchase but still prefer Spruce's speed and efficiency hands down. As always.....YMMV. Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" RV-8 Wing > I have not ordered for a while from ACS but when I tried to order online I find they now require a password and a user ID just to order something!......I went to Chief and will do so in the future... Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81238#81238 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Gold" <andygold(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: What's Up with Aircraft Spruce?
Date: Dec 13, 2006
This is an issue that we at Aircraft Technical Book Company (Builder's Bookstore) have discussed many times. On one side, there is a convenience factor about not having to re-enter your information each time you place an order, however there are also several downsides to requiring customers to enter user names and passwords. 1] Sign-in systems are problematic and not always user friendly. I personally had many experiences where I tried to log into a vendor and the system would neither let me in, nor would it let obtain a new user account. The end result is typically shopping elsewhere. 2] There is often a perception of mistrust by customers concerned about identity theft or having their personal information stored in the vender's systems, and potentially sold; again pushing the customer to shop elsewhere. 3] Issues come up regarding forgotten passwords, address changes, multiple credit card usage, etc., meaning the customer still has to review and often update their information; which again sometimes leads to system problems, confusion and a non-customer friendly experience. All told, we feel the bad outweighs the good and so we choose for our catalogs to NOT require any form of sign-in. A successful e-commerce experience needs to offer unquestioned trust and exceptional usability - a philosophy which has proven very successful for us. Andy Gold Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com www.ACtechbooks.com www.Pilotsbooks.com www.AMTbooks.com www.KitPlanesbooks.com www.AVwebbooks.com (debuting in 2 weeks) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 6:37 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: What's Up with Aircraft Spruce? > > Actually, having ordered from Spruce dozens upon dozens of times, I find > it pleasantly convenient to have my customer information on file so I do > not have to go through the tedious procedure of entering the same > information every time I place an order. Chief is okay and I order from > them on occasion but they are far from perfect. On more than one > occasion, a foul up in shipping has occurred generating infuriating delays > when they don't have a particular item in stock and Chief has to first > order it from THEIR vendor. Doesn't happen a lot but it has happened to > me twice now in less than 10 total ordering experiences with Chief. I'll > continue to use Chief for the occasional purchase but still prefer > Spruce's speed and efficiency hands down. As always.....YMMV. > > Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" > RV-8 Wing > > >> I have not ordered for a while from ACS but when I tried to order online >> I find they now require a password and a user ID just to order >> something!......I went to Chief and will do so in the future... > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Bell" <brucebell74(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Chutes in the RV-4
Date: Dec 13, 2006
RV-4 Drivers Anyone of you used a parachute doing the stall series in your bird? If so what brand/type did you use? Also what type canopy holder did you have? Happy Holidays to All! Bruce Bell Lubbock, Texas RV-4 15+ hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 13, 2006
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: magneto basics
I need to see a labeled picture of a magneto so I can tell which port is which. An exploded diagram would be nice too. Does any one know where I can find such a thing. Surprisingly, I have been unable to find a web page for Slick. Thanks, ----- Tom sargent, RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 13, 2006
Subject: Re: magneto basics
In a message dated 12/13/2006 8:45:15 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, sarg314(at)comcast.net writes: I need to see a labeled picture of a magneto so I can tell which port is which. An exploded diagram would be nice too. Does any one know where I can find such a thing. Surprisingly, I have been unable to find a web page for Slick. ==================================== Try _http://www.unisonindustries.com/_ (http://www.unisonindustries.com/) GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 822hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2006
From: "Thomas Lukasczyk" <Lukasczyk(at)gmx.net>
Subject: RE: Chutes in the RV-4
Hi Bruce There are only a few parachutes that fit into the RV-4. The problem is (as always) the limited cockpit-space. Most of the parachutes available will push you too far forward and the ones with the seat-cushions are usually to big to fit between the seat and the spar. There is a chute that has been especially designed for the RV-4, though. here is the link http://www.strongparachutes.com/Pages/paracushion_304.htm I got it an I do highly recommend it Happy landings http://www.rv-4.de/ Thomas, RV-4 -- Der GMX SmartSurfer hilft bis zu 70% Ihrer Onlinekosten zu sparen! Ideal fr Modem und ISDN: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/smartsurfer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: magneto basics
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Tom. Try starting at this page. http://www.unisonindustries.com/ourproducts/pistonignition.html Dale Ensing > > I need to see a labeled picture of a magneto so I can tell which port is > which. An exploded diagram would be nice too. Does any one know where > I can find such a thing. Surprisingly, I have been unable to find a web > page for Slick. > > Thanks, > ----- > Tom sargent, RV-6A > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Chutes in the RV-4
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Hi Bruce- >If so what brand/type did you use? Also what type canopy holder did you have? I don't have a -4, but I do still have connections to the skydiving world, including a friend who had to bail at close to 200'. He's fine, even though the canopy didn't have a chance to open much. He was using a softie from Para-Phernalia based upon the recommendation of another friend who was a long time jumper and still is a rigger. Guess what kind of rigs we have now? Especially since they do custom work, and I'm 6' 5". Also, aside from being a very satisfied customer, I have no interest in their business. Check them out, give them a call. Ask for Dan Tarasievich, and tell him I sent you. (We chat at OSH each year...) http://www.softieparachutes.com Para-Phernalia, Inc. Toll Free: 800-877-9584 International: 360-435-7220 Fax: 360-435-7272 e-mail: info(at)softieparachutes.com Mailing Address P.O. Box 3468 Arlington, WA 98223-3468 Street Address 19018 59th Dr. NE, Unit # 2 Arlington, WA 98223 glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Subject: RE: Chutes in the RV-4
Date: Dec 14, 2006
It is really hard for me to imagine getting out of my plane while it is not just sitting on the ground. Then add the possible motion that causes you to need to get out. Has anybody done this in an RV series of anything? Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thomas Lukasczyk > Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 1:54 AM > To: RV-List(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: RE: Chutes in the RV-4 > > > Hi Bruce > > There are only a few parachutes that fit into the RV-4. > The problem is (as always) the limited cockpit-space. > Most of the parachutes available will push you too far forward and the > ones with the seat-cushions are usually to big to fit between the seat and > the spar. There is a chute that has been especially designed for the RV-4, > though. > > here is the link > > http://www.strongparachutes.com/Pages/paracushion_304.htm > > I got it an I do highly recommend it > > Happy landings > > http://www.rv-4.de/ > > Thomas, RV-4 > > > > -- > Der GMX SmartSurfer hilft bis zu 70% Ihrer Onlinekosten zu sparen! > Ideal fr Modem und ISDN: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/smartsurfer > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2006
From: Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net>
Subject: RE: Chutes in the RV-4
>It is really hard for me to imagine getting out of my plane while it is not >just sitting on the ground. Then add the possible motion that causes you to >need to get out. Has anybody done this in an RV series of anything? I fly an RV6 with a slider, and I have tried to open the canopy in flight and was unable to do so. I mentioned this to another pilot, that if I had to bail out I wasn't sure I could get out. His response was pretty simple: "It all depends on how motivated you are!" As I recall a pilot flying home from the EAA Arlington Flyin had a cockpit fire and he jumped out, but without a parachute. I may have my facts wrong, some one on the list who knows for sure should be able to confirm or correct me. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2006
From: Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Chutes in the RV-4
I wore a Security 150 parachute during the early testing stages of my RV-3 - as much for simple seating comfort as anything because I didn't have the seat cushion arrangements fully completed. The -3 has a similar cockpit to the -4 in terms of size, space, control stick positioning, etc. The Security 150 is no longer available (as far as I know) so some similar alternative will have to be found. Check at your local glider flying airfields and you may be able to simply borrow something suitable for a few flights as the chutes used in modern sailplanes tend to be contour shaped thin packs. Have a look at <http://wingsandwheels.com/page39.htm> for instance. (My own Security 150 is more usually used when I am flying my ASW-20 sailplane - another quite elegant flying creation.) Jim Oke Wpg MB RV-3 C-FIZM ASW-20 C-GPON Bruce Bell wrote: > > RV-4 Drivers > Anyone of you used a parachute doing the stall series in your bird? If > so what brand/type did you use? Also what type canopy holder did you > have? > Happy Holidays to All! > Bruce Bell > Lubbock, Texas > RV-4 15+ hours > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Subject: Re: RE: Chutes in the RV-4
Hi All, How disappointing to hear about the limited cockpit space in the RV-4. I was looking forward to the extra room when I get my RV-4 is finished. :-) Jim Ayers RV-3 with long softy parachute RV-4 structural completed - 90% to go In a message dated 12/13/2006 11:58:53 PM Pacific Standard Time, Lukasczyk(at)gmx.net writes: --> RV-List message posted by: "Thomas Lukasczyk" Hi Bruce There are only a few parachutes that fit into the RV-4. The problem is (as always) the limited cockpit-space. Most of the parachutes available will push you too far forward and the ones with the seat-cushions are usually to big to fit between the seat and the spar. There is a chute that has been especially designed for the RV-4, though. here is the link http://www.strongparachutes.com/Pages/paracushion_304.htm I got it an I do highly recommend it Happy landings http://www.rv-4.de/ Thomas, RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Subject: Re: RE: Chutes in the RV-4
I believe you are addressing an RV-4 incident. I understand that the RV-4 side hinged canopy wants to open by itself. And it is designed to separate from the airframe when opened. Jim Ayers In a message dated 12/14/2006 6:25:45 AM Pacific Standard Time, panamared5(at)brier.net writes: --> RV-List message posted by: Bob >It is really hard for me to imagine getting out of my plane while it is not >just sitting on the ground. Then add the possible motion that causes you to >need to get out. Has anybody done this in an RV series of anything? I fly an RV6 with a slider, and I have tried to open the canopy in flight and was unable to do so. I mentioned this to another pilot, that if I had to bail out I wasn't sure I could get out. His response was pretty simple: "It all depends on how motivated you are!" As I recall a pilot flying home from the EAA Arlington Flyin had a cockpit fire and he jumped out, but without a parachute. I may have my facts wrong, some one on the list who knows for sure should be able to confirm or correct me. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Subject: RE: Chutes in the RV-4
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Jim, Don't take this out of context. I was only referring to exiting when the plane is in motion. I get in and out of my -6 just fine, and feel totally comfortable in there. If I need to turn around to set my oxygen or anything while flying the plane is all over the place. I was trying to imagine trying to exit the plane with it flying out of control and the wind coming in (no canopy). This would have to be a crazy moment. Of course it already was if I am trying to get out while airborne. Tim _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LessDragProd(at)aol.com Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 8:57 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Chutes in the RV-4 Hi All, How disappointing to hear about the limited cockpit space in the RV-4. I was looking forward to the extra room when I get my RV-4 is finished. :-) Jim Ayers RV-3 with long softy parachute RV-4 structural completed - 90% to go In a message dated 12/13/2006 11:58:53 PM Pacific Standard Time, Lukasczyk(at)gmx.net writes: Hi Bruce There are only a few parachutes that fit into the RV-4. The problem is (as always) the limited cockpit-space. Most of the parachutes available will push you too far forward and the ones with the seat-cushions are usually to big to fit between the seat and the spar. There is a chute that has been especially designed for the RV-4, though. here is the link http://www.strongparachutes.com/Pages/paracushion_304.htm I got it an I do highly recommend it Happy landings http://www.rv-4.de/ Thomas, RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV List Privacy ( Was Ordering from AC Spruce)
Date: Dec 14, 2006
From: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Wrong...this is the real issue. The encryption (little lock symbol) you mention is the protection of the little strings or packets of data as they run around the internet (Servers, switches, routers, concentrators) Once this sensitive data arrives at the end user (AC Spruce), there is NO or very little protection of it. Backup files get lost, computer files get lost with sensitive data (credit card numbers), laptops get stolen, or misplaced or the hard drives get replaced and not destroyed.....Hackers can also get this data. However, even when calling up on the phone and giving your credit card number to the human operator, she/he types it into a computer which brings us right back to the above exposures. It's a loss-loss scenario for the consumer as usual. ".............. When submitting any sensitive data on a computer, be sure the lock symbol is showing down on the security line bar to know your data is being encrypted. I believe that is the critical issue." ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: GNS480 installation manual
Date: Dec 14, 2006
From: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCPower.com>
Does anyone have a .PDF version of the GNS480 installation manual? I've tried the Garmin site without success.... And there doesn't seem To be anything in the archives.... Fred Stucklen RV-7A N924RV (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: Chutes in the RV-4
Date: Dec 14, 2006
No, he had it right. It was an RV-8 that had just won a craftsmanship award at Arlington. He did make it out of the airplane. It's not completely clear, but I think he had installed quick-release pins at the front canopy track rollers. He had asked about and discussed getting out of his RV-8 in flight on this list while bulding. That the week we lost two RV list members at or going home from Arlington. The other was the take-off accident and fire that killed a new RV-6A owner. Terry _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LessDragProd(at)aol.com Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 7:03 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Chutes in the RV-4 I believe you are addressing an RV-4 incident. I understand that the RV-4 side hinged canopy wants to open by itself. And it is designed to separate from the airframe when opened. Jim Ayers In a message dated 12/14/2006 6:25:45 AM Pacific Standard Time, panamared5(at)brier.net writes: >It is really hard for me to imagine getting out of my plane while it is not >just sitting on the ground. Then add the possible motion that causes you to >need to get out. Has anybody done this in an RV series of anything? I fly an RV6 with a slider, and I have tried to open the canopy in flight and was unable to do so. I mentioned this to another pilot, that if I had to bail out I wasn't sure I could get out. His response was pretty simple: "It all depends on how motivated you are!" As I recall a pilot flying home from the EAA Arlington Flyin had a cockpit fire and he jumped out, but without a parachute. I may have my facts wrong, some one on the list who knows for sure should be able to confirm or correct me. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: GNS480 installation manual
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Garmin seems to be a bit tight on making the manuals available. Here is one good place: http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/Downloads/howtogetagarminmanual.htm there are some others around if that one no longer works brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 12:23 PM Subject: RV-List: GNS480 installation manual Does anyone have a .PDF version of the GNS480 installation manual? I've tried the Garmin site without success. And there doesn't seem To be anything in the archives. Fred Stucklen RV-7A N924RV (Reserved) <http://www.buildersbooks.com> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com> -- 6:13 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PSPRV6A(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 12/11/06
Tapping flap push rods: Anyone in the area of Minnetonka Minnesota is welcome to bring their push rods here for drilling/tapping. I have good taps and drills and a 13X36 metal lathe plus the needed black oil. With the right tools, the job is child's play. It may cost you a cup of coffee at the nearby coffee shop! Paul S. Petersen, 3523 Arbor Lane, Minnetonka MN 55305 PSPRV6A(at)aol.com (building RV6A with son Eric, 95% done, 50% to go!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: GNS480 installation manual
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Also, here is more info from similar questions asked on other lists: This site is generally helpful http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/Downloads/howtogetagarminmanual.htm. GMA340 is at http://www.garmin.com/manuals/GMA340AudioPanel_InstallationManual.pdf GNS430 http://www.garmin.com/manuals/143_InstallationManual.pdf GTX330 http://www.garmin.com/manuals/GTX330Transponder_InstallationManual.pdf Try this: http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/Downloads/howtogetagarminmanual.htm Or that : http://contrails.free.fr/gps_manuels.php Dan Checkoway's RV-7 Project is a good place to look: http://www.rvproject.com/garmin/ john Try Stark Avionics. They have most of them on PDF and may e-mail you one Don I dont know why Garmin makes it so difficult to find their manuals, but I hope this helps. brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 12:23 PM Subject: RV-List: GNS480 installation manual Does anyone have a .PDF version of the GNS480 installation manual? I've tried the Garmin site without success. And there doesn't seem To be anything in the archives. Fred Stucklen RV-7A N924RV (Reserved) <http://www.buildersbooks.com> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com> -- 6:13 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: RE: Chutes in the RV-4
At 11:05 AM 12/14/2006, you wrote: >No, he had it right. It was an RV-8 that had just won a craftsmanship >award at Arlington. He did make it out of the airplane. It's not >completely clear, but I think he had installed quick-release pins at the >front canopy track rollers. He had asked about and discussed getting out >of his RV-8 in flight on this list while bulding. That the week we lost >two RV list members at or going home from Arlington. The other was the >take-off accident and fire that killed a new RV-6A owner. > >Terry > Was the 6A accident a first flight or a new owner who had no time in a 6A? There is no excuse for not getting time in an RV before you fly your own. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: GNS480 installation manual
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Yeah here you go, from Dan Checkoways site: http://rvimg.com/garmin/CNX80IntegratedAvionicsSystem_InstallationManual.pdf -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 12:23 PM Subject: RV-List: GNS480 installation manual Does anyone have a .PDF version of the GNS480 installation manual? I've tried the Garmin site without success. And there doesn't seem To be anything in the archives. Fred Stucklen RV-7A N924RV (Reserved) <http://www.buildersbooks.com> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com> -- 6:13 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: Chutes in the RV-4
Date: Dec 14, 2006
No, it wasn't his first flight. Don Corbit (I hope I spelled his name right) had bought the plane maybe a week or two earlier and had flown it all over the state in that time. He was scheduled for transition training the weekend after Arlington. I recall that he was hurrying to get off the airport before the runway closed for the air show. There was some speculation that he hadn't made sure the stick was free during a rushed preflight, since he entered a very steep climb right after takeoff. Others on the list, most likely Jerry Springer, might have more first-hand knowledge of the circumstances. Don was a very bright and capable guy. At 38, he was a retired Microsoft millionaire and had four little kids. I met him and rode with him a few weeks earlier when he rented a Cessna 182 and made his first instrument flight after getting his ticket, flying from Seattle's Boeing Field to the fly-in at Scappoose, Oregon, where he got his first RV ride. My photo of Don with his huge RV grin was likely one of the last taken of him. The whole sad story is in the RV list archives. We lost more than most realize when we lost Don. He spent most of his time at Scappoose talking to RV pilots about what they would want in electronic instrumentation in their airplanes. Don was a software guy and I think his wife was (is) an electrical engineer. They had ideas and the money and brainpower - and the ambition to make them work. Terry _____ Was the 6A accident a first flight or a new owner who had no time in a 6A? There is no excuse for not getting time in an RV before you fly your own. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2006
From: Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: What's Up with Aircraft Spruce?
> >This is an issue that we at Aircraft Technical Book Company (Builder's >Bookstore) have discussed many times. > >2] There is often a perception of mistrust by customers concerned about >identity theft or having their personal information stored in the vender's >systems, and potentially sold; again pushing the customer to shop elsewhere. I have no mistrust about it, I fully trust that the company will sell my personal information. That is why I get up to 1000 email ads a day. I agree with all the rest that Andy Gold stated. I have seldom experienced any convenience with e-commerce systems that require a password and log in, as I can never figure out what my password is for that account. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: magneto basics
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Aircraft Spruce's catalog. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1150+ hours) www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 8:42 PM Subject: RV-List: magneto basics > > I need to see a labeled picture of a magneto so I can tell which port is > which. An exploded diagram would be nice too. Does any one know where > I can find such a thing. Surprisingly, I have been unable to find a web > page for Slick. > > Thanks, > ----- > Tom sargent, RV-6A > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Chutes in the RV-4
Date: Dec 15, 2006
From: <John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au>
Hi Guys, With the exchange rate the way it is maybe you might like to look at an Australian product, I spent many hours siting on one of these in L13 Blaniks so I know their comfortable. http://www.parachutesaustralia.com/s2/prod_emer_thnbk.php Cheers John Morrissey RV-4 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Oke Sent: Friday, 15 December 2006 1:53 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Chutes in the RV-4 I wore a Security 150 parachute during the early testing stages of my RV-3 - as much for simple seating comfort as anything because I didn't have the seat cushion arrangements fully completed. The -3 has a similar cockpit to the -4 in terms of size, space, control stick positioning, etc. The Security 150 is no longer available (as far as I know) so some similar alternative will have to be found. Check at your local glider flying airfields and you may be able to simply borrow something suitable for a few flights as the chutes used in modern sailplanes tend to be contour shaped thin packs. Have a look at <http://wingsandwheels.com/page39.htm> for instance. (My own Security 150 is more usually used when I am flying my ASW-20 sailplane - another quite elegant flying creation.) Jim Oke Wpg MB RV-3 C-FIZM ASW-20 C-GPON Bruce Bell wrote: > > RV-4 Drivers > Anyone of you used a parachute doing the stall series in your bird? If > so what brand/type did you use? Also what type canopy holder did you > have? > Happy Holidays to All! > Bruce Bell > Lubbock, Texas > RV-4 15+ hours > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2006
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: CHT probe mounting
I am mounting the CHT probes for my VM1000. They were delivered with no washers of any kind. Should there be a star washer on these to keep them from working loose? -- Tom S., RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BillRVSIX(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Subject: Garmin 296 Breaker size
Hello I Am looking to hook up the Garmin GPS 296 to the avionics bus and would like to use a Breaker in the panel instead of the 1.5 Amp fuse that comes inline with the power cord. I have a 2 Amp push/pull breaker I would like to use but I don't have the power cord and I not sure what gage the wire is and if the 2 Amp breaker will be to much. If anyone has any info that would be great. Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: GNS480 installation manual
Date: Dec 14, 2006
From: "Brad Templin" <btemplin(at)templinelectronics.com>
Email Garmin Tech Support - they should be able to provide you with the install manual and a sample flight supplement. Brad ________________________________ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 12:23 PM Subject: RV-List: GNS480 installation manual Does anyone have a .PDF version of the GNS480 installation manual? I've tried the Garmin site without success.... And there doesn't seem To be anything in the archives.... Fred Stucklen RV-7A N924RV (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HalBenjamin(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Subject: Re: RV-4 F-416 cockpit rail/F-423 side skin junction question.
In a message dated 12/11/2006 6:38:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, tomvelvick(at)cox.net writes: > I was wondering which way you installed your F-423 side skins on the > longerons, the plans don't seem real clear on it: > > a: Make the top of the F-423 side skins flush with the top of the longerons? > > b: Raise the side skins .040 so they will be flush with the top of the F-416 > cockpit rails when they are installed later? > > Hi Tom, I did mine flush with the top of the longerons. Hal Benjamin RV-4 Long Island, NY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Subject: CHT probe mounting
Date: Dec 14, 2006
Tom, I don't remember but I have the same system. My cowl is off right now getting louvers so I could look in the morning. Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sarg314 > Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 8:53 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: CHT probe mounting > > > I am mounting the CHT probes for my VM1000. They were delivered with no > washers of any kind. Should there be a star washer on these to keep > them from working loose? > -- > Tom S., RV-6A > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-4 F-416 cockpit rail/F-423 side skin junction question.
From: "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick(at)cox.net>
Date: Dec 14, 2006
[quote="HalBenjamin(at)aol.com"]In a message dated 12/11/2006 6:38:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, tomvelvick(at)cox.net writes: I did mine flush with the top of the longerons. Hal Benjamin RV-4 Long Island, NY > [b] Hi Hal, So far its 3 people that did their rv-4 side skins flush with the top of the longerons to 0 who raised the skins to cover the cockpit rail. Regards, Tom Velvick Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=81652#81652 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Garmin 296 Breaker size
Date: Dec 14, 2006
The breaker protects the wiring, not the instrument. 20g wire would be plenty for a 2 amp breaker for almost any length wire run. My buddy has a nice link on his web page for wiring sizing. Check out http://www.4sierratango.com/electrical1.htm and click on the Excel picture. -Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BillRVSIX(at)aol.com Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 9:54 PM Subject: RV-List: Garmin 296 Breaker size Hello I Am looking to hook up the Garmin GPS 296 to the avionics bus and would like to use a Breaker in the panel instead of the 1.5 Amp fuse that comes inline with the power cord. I have a 2 Amp push/pull breaker I would like to use but I don't have the power cord and I not sure what gage the wire is and if the 2 Amp breaker will be to much. If anyone has any info that would be great. Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: CHT probe mounting
Date: Dec 15, 2006
Mine didn't come with them either.....I'm wondering..... ----- Original Message ----- From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 9:52 PM Subject: RV-List: CHT probe mounting > > I am mounting the CHT probes for my VM1000. They were delivered with no > washers of any kind. Should there be a star washer on these to keep > them from working loose? > -- > Tom S., RV-6A > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: parachutes in the RV-4
Date: Dec 15, 2006
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
SNIP Hi Bruce- >If so what brand/type did you use? Also what type canopy holder did you have? I don't have a -4, but I do still have connections to the skydiving world, including a friend who had to bail at close to 200'. He's fine, even though the canopy didn't have a chance to open much. He was using a softie from Para-Phernalia based upon the recommendation of another friend who was a long time jumper and still is a rigger. Guess what kind of rigs we have now? Especially since they do custom work, and I'm 6' 5". Also, aside from being a very satisfied customer, I have no interest in their business. Check them out, give them a call. Ask for Dan Tarasievich, and tell him I sent you. (We chat at OSH each year...) http://www.softieparachutes.com Para-Phernalia, Inc. Toll Free: 800-877-9584 International: 360-435-7220 Fax: 360-435-7272 e-mail: info(at)softieparachutes.com Mailing Address P.O. Box 3468 Arlington, WA 98223-3468 Street Address 19018 59th Dr. NE, Unit # 2 Arlington, WA 98223 glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net SNIP I'll second the recommendation from Glen and add a little more. I am 5'11" and 180#. I was trying to find a chute to wear in my Rocket, which has an identical cockpit size to the RV-4 for this discussion. I tried several different styles and sizes of chutes. They all sucked. Either the chute pushed me into the panel (backpacks) or into the canopy (seatpacks). Jim at Paraphernalia came up with a modified seat wedge that spreads the chute's bulk from just behind my butt to out under my thighs. You don't use any seat cushions with this chute and really don't need any. A lumbar pad is all that I added and I find it comfortable for up to 2 hours. This was the ONLY chute that I could wear in my Rocket and see no reason why it wouldn't work just as well in an RV-4. Here's a URL to photos of this chute and the Rocket cockpit layout: http://www.vincesrocket.com/parachute%20pictures.htm This shows the original Paraphernalia chute layout. Jim later modified it slightly for an even better fit. IF YOU NEED A CHUTE IN YOUR RV-4 I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU GIVE JIM A CALL !!!! FWIW, I don't have a business interest in Paraphernalia chutes. Vince www.vincesrocket.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: CHT probe mounting
Date: Dec 15, 2006
Mine have stayed nice and snug for 75 hours with no locking device. I'd put then in and move on. Steve Struyk RV-8, St. Charles MO ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 7:09 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: CHT probe mounting > > Mine didn't come with them either.....I'm wondering..... > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> > To: > Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 9:52 PM > Subject: RV-List: CHT probe mounting > > >> >> I am mounting the CHT probes for my VM1000. They were delivered with no >> washers of any kind. Should there be a star washer on these to keep them >> from working loose? >> -- >> Tom S., RV-6A >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BillRVSIX(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 15, 2006
Subject: Re: Garmin 296 Breaker size
Thank you for Replying but my problem is that I don't have the power cord or the Garmin 296 so I don't know what gage the wire is and if my 2 Amp beaker in the panel would be to Big. The garmin uses a 1.5 fuse built into the power cord I would like to cut the fuse out and wire the GPS to the breaker On the panel. Thanks. And thanks for the link. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: CHT probe mounting
Date: Dec 16, 2006
Almost 300 hours with no lock washers and still as firm as when they were installed. -- Harry Crosby RV-6 N16CX, 295 hours -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> > > Mine didn't come with them either.....I'm wondering..... > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> > To: > Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 9:52 PM > Subject: RV-List: CHT probe mounting > > > > > > I am mounting the CHT probes for my VM1000. They were delivered with no > > washers of any kind. Should there be a star washer on these to keep > > them from working loose? > > -- > > Tom S., RV-6A > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296 Breaker size
Date: Dec 16, 2006
22 awg is fine. A 2 amp breaker is the right size to protect the 22 awg wire. Indiana Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: BillRVSIX(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 2:44 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296 Breaker size Thank you for Replying but my problem is that I don't have the power cord or the Garmin 296 so I don't know what gage the wire is and if my 2 Amp beaker in the panel would be to Big. The garmin uses a 1.5 fuse built into the power cord I would like to cut the fuse out and wire the GPS to the breaker On the panel. Thanks. And thanks for the link. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 16, 2006
Subject: F-35 JSF First Flight
I understand that the ultimate homebuilt, the JSF, flew yesterday in Forth Worth. As one who has been privileged to visit this facility and work with some of the good folks there I say congratulations to all of you who have worked so hard (some of them on the RV-List) in the production of this fine aircraft. Well done!! GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 822hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: F-696 / T-405 Overlap
Date: Dec 16, 2006
Fellow listers, Having just got my wings aligned I'm looking at the forward fuel tank support and its attachment to the fuselage. I only have a 29/32 overlap which is smaller than the diagram implies - I think they're using a smaller washer than the one provided. Any ideas on a minimum edge distance would be appreciated. Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Stick-on Trim Tabs
Date: Dec 16, 2006
http://www.epm-avcorp.com/trimtab.html - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > > > > > Hi All, > > Looking for stick-on trim tabs. Someone made them but I > can't find them. > > Best for the HOLIDAYS, > > Bruce Bell > > Lubbock, Texas > > RV-4 N23BB 18 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy
Date: Dec 17, 2006
For those of us who fly behind wood props, this is a good read. It may give some indication of the symptoms of a wood prop beginning to fail. And then failing... ;-) http://www.cozybuilders.org/Desert_Center/ Kyle Boatright 2001 RV-6 Aymar Demuth Prop ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: aircraft directory...
Date: Dec 17, 2006
Has anyone tried to use the aircraft directory on the kitplanes website? It looks like an app I used to use on another website that worked really well, but the one on the kitplanes site doesn't work very well at all... It has a search function that you can input filtering criteria like; kit or plans, cruise speed, landing gear configuration etc.....but it doesn't return aircraft you would expect it to return... I tried several different searches, all of which SHOULD include some, if not all of Van's airplanes, but none were ever returned... I don't get it... I was wondering if anyone else had use this tool and could possible tell me what I am doing wrong, or maybe tell me where the original app is located so I can use it because this one doesn't seem to work... You can access it here if you have a esubscription of kitplanes... http://www.kitplanes.com/aircraftdirectory/ -Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840(at)comcast.net>
Subject: aircraft directory...
Date: Dec 17, 2006
Bill, I was able to find all Van's models after logging in, which is required to use the search engine. The login is free through Feb 15, 2007. Ken -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill VonDane Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 1:05 PM Subject: RV-List: aircraft directory... Has anyone tried to use the aircraft directory on the kitplanes website? It looks like an app I used to use on another website that worked really well, but the one on the kitplanes site doesn't work very well at all... It has a search function that you can input filtering criteria like; kit or plans, cruise speed, landing gear configuration etc.....but it doesn't return aircraft you would expect it to return... I tried several different searches, all of which SHOULD include some, if not all of Van's airplanes, but none were ever returned... I don't get it... I was wondering if anyone else had use this tool and could possible tell me what I am doing wrong, or maybe tell me where the original app is located so I can use it because this one doesn't seem to work... You can access it here if you have a esubscription of kitplanes... http://www.kitplanes.com/aircraftdirectory/ -Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: aircraft directory...
Date: Dec 17, 2006
Hey Ken... Yes I have paid and was logged it... What I am saying is the search engine does not work right... Do a search, and only choose; kit or plans = kits landing gear = trigear seats = 2 materials = metal and tell me what you get... Makes it hard to search for all trigear 180 mph aircraft if it doesn't even return RVs... -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Ken Howell Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 12:10 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: aircraft directory... Bill, I was able to find all Van's models after logging in, which is required to use the search engine. The login is free through Feb 15, 2007. Ken -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill VonDane Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 1:05 PM Subject: RV-List: aircraft directory... Has anyone tried to use the aircraft directory on the kitplanes website? It looks like an app I used to use on another website that worked really well, but the one on the kitplanes site doesn't work very well at all... It has a search function that you can input filtering criteria like; kit or plans, cruise speed, landing gear configuration etc.....but it doesn't return aircraft you would expect it to return... I tried several different searches, all of which SHOULD include some, if not all of Van's airplanes, but none were ever returned... I don't get it... I was wondering if anyone else had use this tool and could possible tell me what I am doing wrong, or maybe tell me where the original app is located so I can use it because this one doesn't seem to work... You can access it here if you have a esubscription of kitplanes... http://www.kitplanes.com/aircraftdirectory/ -Bill www.aeroelectric.comwww.buildersbooks.comwww.kitlog.comwww.homebuilthelp. comhttp://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigato r?RV-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2006
Subject: Re:F-696 / T-405 Overlap
Ralph, Just did mine. Supposed to be half inch all the way around. Mine is a -6a, but I used the newer steel fuse tabs from the -7's and their plans say half inch so that's what I used. BTW, I originally bent the thick alum tabs the required 5 deg but didn't like the looks of the bend. Looked like it had been stressed, and couldn't polish out the marks so went with the steel ones. They are prefabbed, all you have to do is bend them and only $10/pair. Jerry Cochran RV6a at the hangar and finishing...finishing...finishing... From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: F-696 / T-405 Overlap Fellow listers, Having just got my wings aligned I'm looking at the forward fuel tank support and its attachment to the fuselage. I only have a 29/32 overlap which is smaller than the diagram implies - I think they're using a smaller washer than the one provided. Any ideas on a minimum edge distance would be appreciated. Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 17, 2006
Subject: Re:F-696 / T-405 Overlap
BTW Ralph, That steel tab is very long so is more than adequate for edge distance.I cut mine of to save an ounce... :-) IIRC, you're talking about a -6 or 8a?? Jerry Cochran Fellow listers, Having just got my wings aligned I'm looking at the forward fuel tank support and its attachment to the fuselage. I only have a 29/32 overlap which is smaller than the diagram implies - I think they're using a smaller washer than the one provided. Any ideas on a minimum edge distance would be appreciated. Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2006
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: stupid exhaust mistake
I am drilling holes in my Vetterman exhaust for the EGT probes and made a dumb mistake on cyl. #3. I put a 1/8" hole in it about 1/2" too high. In that position the hoseclamp that holds on the probe interferes with the pin that's welded to the exhaust that locks the 2 pieces of pipe together. I can drill another hole in a better position, but how do I safely close up the unwanted hole? --- Tom Sargent, RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Derek Reed" <dreed(at)budget.net>
Subject: Lyc 0-320-E2D
Date: Dec 17, 2006
For sale Lycoming 0-320-E2D Certified engine, OK for auto gas. 402 hrs SMOH 2519 TT. Removed from Cessna 172 for 180 HP upgrade. All logs available. Building RV6A with 180Hp 0- 360 Lyc. Don't need this engine now! $11,900 FOB Grants Pass Can be seen at 3S8 541-479-5216 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re:F-696 / T-405 Overlap
Date: Dec 17, 2006
6A - I'll contact vans about the newer steel parts - or the appropriate compromise for what I've got..... ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 3:12 PM Subject: RV-List: Re:F-696 / T-405 Overlap BTW Ralph, That steel tab is very long so is more than adequate for edge distance.I cut mine of to save an ounce... :-) IIRC, you're talking about a -6 or 8a?? Jerry Cochran Fellow listers, Having just got my wings aligned I'm looking at the forward fuel tank support and its attachment to the fuselage. I only have a 29/32 overlap which is smaller than the diagram implies - I think they're using a smaller washer than the one provided. Any ideas on a minimum edge distance would be appreciated. Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2006
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: EGT on vetterman exhaust
The VisionMicro EGT probes are supposed to be 3.5 - 4" from the exhaust flange. The vetterman exhaust (for the O-360, anyway) on Cyl #1 and Cyl #3 has the welded pin that locks the 2 pipe segments together positioned right where you'd want to put the EGT probe. I can position the probe too high (3" or less from the flange) or too low about 4.2" from flange. The lower position has the clamp slip in just under the pin bracket. The clamp is held captive by the bracket, but it straddles the junction where the 2 pipes fit together. Is there any argument for choosing the too hi or the too low position? I assume the higher location will read a little hotter. It may not matter. What have other vetterman users done? Thansk, -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2006
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: EGT on vetterman exhaust - correction
The pinned junction on the vetterman exhaust is on Cyl #2 and #3, not #1 and #3. -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840(at)comcast.net>
Subject: aircraft directory...
Date: Dec 17, 2006
Bill, You're right; it looks like kitplanes.com does not recognize any Vans models as trigear. If you use "any" gear configuration, you get hits on the RV's. Maybe someone should let them know, probably just an oversight in their database. Makes you wonder about the rest of the data though. Ken -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill VonDane Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 2:58 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: aircraft directory... Hey Ken... Yes I have paid and was logged it... What I am saying is the search engine does not work right... Do a search, and only choose; kit or plans = kits landing gear = trigear seats = 2 materials = metal and tell me what you get... Makes it hard to search for all trigear 180 mph aircraft if it doesn't even return RVs... -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Ken Howell <mailto:cfi1513840(at)comcast.net> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 12:10 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: aircraft directory... Bill, I was able to find all Van's models after logging in, which is required to use the search engine. The login is free through Feb 15, 2007. Ken -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill VonDane Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 1:05 PM Subject: RV-List: aircraft directory... Has anyone tried to use the aircraft directory on the kitplanes website? It looks like an app I used to use on another website that worked really well, but the one on the kitplanes site doesn't work very well at all... It has a search function that you can input filtering criteria like; kit or plans, cruise speed, landing gear configuration etc.....but it doesn't return aircraft you would expect it to return... I tried several different searches, all of which SHOULD include some, if not all of Van's airplanes, but none were ever returned... I don't get it... I was wondering if anyone else had use this tool and could possible tell me what I am doing wrong, or maybe tell me where the original app is located so I can use it because this one doesn't seem to work... You can access it here if you have a esubscription of kitplanes... http://www.kitplanes.com/aircraftdirectory/ -Bill www.aeroelectric.com www.buildersbooks.com www.kitlog.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c href "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Nav iga tor?RV-List ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Subject: EGT on vetterman exhaust
Date: Dec 17, 2006
Mine are under in the lower position and it works just fine. Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sarg314 > Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 4:59 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: EGT on vetterman exhaust > > > The VisionMicro EGT probes are supposed to be 3.5 - 4" from the exhaust > flange. The vetterman exhaust (for the O-360, anyway) on Cyl #1 and Cyl > #3 has the welded pin that locks the 2 pipe segments together positioned > right where you'd want to put the EGT probe. I can position the probe > too high (3" or less from the flange) or too low about 4.2" from > flange. The lower position has the clamp slip in just under the pin > bracket. The clamp is held captive by the bracket, but it straddles the > junction where the 2 pipes fit together. > > Is there any argument for choosing the too hi or the too low position? > I assume the higher location will read a little hotter. It may not > matter. What have other vetterman users done? > > Thansk, > -- > Tom Sargent, RV-6A. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy
Date: Dec 18, 2006
>Haven't read the whole thing yet, but there's a glaring error in his >analysis: > >' My theory is that there was a crack in a blade which was growing, >bringing the resonant frequency of the prop in and out of the RPM >operating range as it got bigger and the vibration mode frequencies >changed. One blade leaves, then 10 seconds later the hub gives up the >ghost.' > >If he had lost a blade, it wouldn't have been 10 seconds; more like 1 >second. And it wouldn't have been just the prop that departed. >Less than an ounce off a tip will feel like the airframe is coming >apart. An entire blade will likely cause the engine to leave with the prop. > >Charlie I've got to agree with you, Charlie (not that you asked ; - ) ) >From my perspective there is a pretty clear chain of events here. I won't bore the list with my ramblings, but the key cause and effect are that something (such as the victim's move from coastal MA to desert CA) caused dimensional shrinkage of the prop, which loosened it, and led to torsional vibration. This is borne out by the photos of the charring on the face of the prop extension. The reason I comment on the whole affair is that 'back in the day', when I was flying Cubs and Champs, a fellow I think knew Wilbur and Orville advised me to sniff the prop / crank interface when preflighting a wooden prop. If the prop were loose, as can happen from season to season with humidity change, you could smell the charring of the varnish. Perhaps this preflight technique will help another avoid the same fate. glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy
Date: Dec 18, 2006
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
Thanks, Chuck Jensen Diversified Technologies 2680 Westcott Blvd Knoxville, TN 37931 Phn: 865-539-9000 x25 Cell: 865-406-9001 Fax: 865-539-9001 cjensen(at)dts9000.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen matejcek Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 8:34 AM Subject: RV-List: RE: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy Glen Matejcek" wrote... The reason I comment on the whole affair is that 'back in the day', when I was flying Cubs and Champs, a fellow I think knew Wilbur and Orville advised me to sniff the prop / crank interface when preflighting a wooden prop. If the prop were loose, as can happen from season to season with humidity change, you could smell the charring of the varnish. Glen, do you recommend sniffing the prop before or after starting the engine??? :-) Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2006
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy (Catto Prop)
Charlie from what I know about wood prop harmonics and fatigue was not the issue, like it can be a failure mode for metal props. I do think it was manufactured or installation error. We are talking a natural material, bonding pieces together. Usually wood props are very reliable but are subject to wear and tear to a greater degree than metal. OF course all wood prop owners should re-torque their prop several times a year depending on changes in weather (temp/humidity). Also the engine may be modified. 180 HP puts out a mean power pulse. With the bolts loose and fretting problems can occure. Also he felt the vibs for 4 weeks before! LESSON if you feel somthing figure it out before flying. I thing the prop just started to fail. Even with tight bolts props take a beating. The problem is if you suspect a problem finding the crack in a fiberglass wrapped wood prop may be hard to do with out some NDT (non destructive test). Catto has had other failures and it was in a racing situation. Not a Catto prop put down but the one that failed was on a formula racer and the bond failed. The way the joint was made was less than ideal. Many times to make up the wood for the prop blank they glue pieces together. I am sure with a three bladed one piece wood prop Catto has to make some interesting joints and bond lines. >>From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Wood Prop Loss - Cozy >>Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote: >> For those of us who fly behind wood props, this is a good >> read. It may give some indication of the symptoms of a wood prop >> beginning to fail. And then failing... ;-) >> >> Dan Hopper >> RV-7A >Haven't read the whole thing yet, but there's a glaring error in his >analysis: >My theory is that there was a crack in a blade which was growing, >bringing the resonant frequency of the prop in and out of the RPM >operating range as it got bigger and the vibration mode frequencies >changed. One blade leaves, then 10 seconds later the hub gives up the >ghost.' >If he had lost a blade, it wouldn't have been 10 seconds; more like 1 >second. And it wouldn't have been just the prop that departed. >Less than an ounce off a tip will feel like the airframe is coming >apart. An entire blade will likely cause the engine to leave with the >prop. >Charlie __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available
From: "Jon A. Delamarter" <jdelamarter(at)lycoming.textron.com>
Date: Dec 18, 2006
I have a brand-new Thunderbolt IO-390-EXP tested, boxed, & ready to ship from the Lycoming factory here in Williamsport. Please email me for details. (jdelamarter(at)lycoming.textron.com) Jon A. Delamarter Thunderbolt Manager Lycoming Engines Note: I am purposely ommiting details and pricing in deference to the non-commercial nature of this website. I am posting only after contacting Matt Dralle for permission. Thanks, Matt! -------- Jon A. Delamarter EAA# 780469 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82243#82243 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available
Date: Dec 18, 2006
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Umm, you are posting an advertisement so I think that the non-commercial comment is a bit out the window. I'm betting the list members would love a reference point that has pricing and details. I for one would. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon A. Delamarter Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 10:28 AM Subject: RV-List: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available I have a brand-new Thunderbolt IO-390-EXP tested, boxed, & ready to ship from the Lycoming factory here in Williamsport. Please email me for details. (jdelamarter(at)lycoming.textron.com) Jon A. Delamarter Thunderbolt Manager Lycoming Engines Note: I am purposely ommiting details and pricing in deference to the non-commercial nature of this website. I am posting only after contacting Matt Dralle for permission. Thanks, Matt! -------- Jon A. Delamarter EAA# 780469 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82243#82243 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available
From: "Jon A. Delamarter" <jdelamarter(at)lycoming.textron.com>
Date: Dec 18, 2006
rvbuilder(at)sausen.net wrote: > I'm betting the list members would love a reference point that has pricing and details. I for one would. > -- Thunderbolt IO-390-EXP - 210hp Roller Tappets Front propeller governor mount pad Forward facing "A" sump (standard) Precision Static Balancing (Pistons & Rods to 0.5g) Airflow Performance FM-200 fuel injection system, incl Purge Valve (1)Slick Impulse Mag, (1) Slick Plain Mag, ignition harness, sparkplugs Two-tone paint - Thunderbolt Titanium w/Gloss Black Cylinders Chrome rocker covers, intake pipes, and pushroud shroud tubes Starter/Alternator/Vac Pump not included 2year/200hr parts/labor warranty With two-tone paint and chrome options, standard price is $31,930. This unit (only) is available for $29,900 ($2,030 discount) if purchased in 2006. -------- Jon A. Delamarter EAA# 780469 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82261#82261 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: aircraft directory...
Date: Dec 18, 2006
I didnt like what they had, so I made my own. Theirs is also laced with errors. I fixed all the mistakes I could find, and I encourage others to update me with corrections, so we can all make this an ongoing, valuable resource for all of us. I also encourage people to spread it around so all can benefit from it http://brian76.mystarband.net/misc.htm#directory its a spreadsheet, so you can download it and do all sorts of queries and sorts on it and its free brian http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 1:05 PM Subject: RV-List: aircraft directory... Has anyone tried to use the aircraft directory on the kitplanes website? It looks like an app I used to use on another website that worked really well, but the one on the kitplanes site doesn't work very well at all... It has a search function that you can input filtering criteria like; kit or plans, cruise speed, landing gear configuration etc.....but it doesn't return aircraft you would expect it to return... I tried several different searches, all of which SHOULD include some, if not all of Van's airplanes, but none were ever returned... I don't get it... I was wondering if anyone else had use this tool and could possible tell me what I am doing wrong, or maybe tell me where the original app is located so I can use it because this one doesn't seem to work... You can access it here if you have a esubscription of kitplanes... http://www.kitplanes.com/aircraftdirectory/ -Bill <http://www.buildersbooks.com> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com> -- 3:17 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2006
From: "Larry E. James" <larry(at)ncproto.com>
Subject: parachutes in the RV-4
Bruce, I'll second all good things you have heard about Paraphernalia. I have had Dan custom build 3 different parachutes for me (including my current Rocket) over the years and I am a very happy customer. Your configuration depends on your body shape and how you want to approach the problem. Larry E. James Bellevue, WA Harmon Rocket ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jim-bean(at)att.net
Date: Dec 19, 2006
All, I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the open position. My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas? Jim Bean 43 hours now on N99JA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2006
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Parking Brake
Hope these help! jim-bean(at)att.net wrote: > >All, >I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured >out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle >by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious >accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into >the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks >the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the >open position. >My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it >properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed >operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas? >Jim Bean >43 hours now on N99JA > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2006
Subject: Spar mistake!
From: David Karlsberg <claypride(at)hotmail.com>
I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I really have no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new 3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most inboard Z bracket. The hole doesn=B9t interfere with anything and I have adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should I do? Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think. Thanks, David ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com>
Subject: Re:
Date: Dec 18, 2006
On Dec 18, 2006, at 7:51 PM, jim-bean(at)att.net wrote: > > All, > I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never > figured > out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little > handle > by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious > accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle > into > the closed position. When this happens the next brake application > locks > the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the > open position. > My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it > properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed > operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas? How it operates depends on how you mount it and how you mount the cable clamp. I mounted mine such that pulling the cable closes the valve such that if the brakes were applied, it maintains the hydraulic pressure. I used a ratchet style cable so it stays where you put it. All that being said, I have only used it a couple of times in 7 years. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2006
From: gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re:
The On-Off of-course depends how u mount the valve. mine is mounted such that pulling will close, I got a T handle from ACS with a 1/4 turn lock, i also mounted a spring which pulls the lever into the open position jim-bean(at)att.net wrote: > > All, > I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured > out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle > by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious > accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into > the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks > the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the > open position. > My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it > properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed > operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas? > Jim Bean > 43 hours now on N99JA > > > -- ------------------------------------------------------------------- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. -------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2006
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Spar mistake!
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Spar mistake!
At 08:31 PM 12/18/2006, you wrote: >I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I really have >no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new >3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most >inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I have >adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am >concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should I do? >Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope >not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think. > >Thanks, >David I would get a good nights sleep and call them about it although a pic is worth a lot. It appears that the deburring did not leave a smooth inner surface. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: Parking Brake
Date: Dec 18, 2006
The valve operates by trapping the fluid after you apply the brakes. Apply brakes, close valve and fluid and pressure stay put assuming no leaks. Position the cable so pulling it closes the valve. Use a ratcheting or locking cable so it will stay in either the open or closed position. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A Regards, Greg Young > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > jim-bean(at)att.net > Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 8:52 PM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: > > > All, > I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but > never figured out how to use it. At first I thought that I > could use the little handle by itself. Unfortunately this > dream resulted in an almost serious accident when the tiny > mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into the closed > position. When this happens the next brake application locks > the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped > into the open position. > My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to > operate it properly. Simply putting a control cable on it > results in reversed operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas? > Jim Bean > 43 hours now on N99JA > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2006
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re:
Hi Jim, I, too, am using the parking brake from Van's catalog installed in my RV-6A. Though I cannot find a photo to send you, I'll describe the installation. It is mounted on the firewall inside the cockpit to the left of center and near the floor. This seemed to me to be optimal for plumbing. It is in a position so that when the lever is moved upward, it is activated. So, when I pull out the knob of the pull cable, the valve is in th ON position. So, the knob is pushed all the way in for OFF and all the way out for ON. Indeed, in the ON position, the brakes lock with the first press of the brake pedals. It is released by merely pushing the know in. Your description sounds as though you are working the lever in reverse. I have had only a few occasions to use the parking brake, but it works well. Hope this is of some help. Best regards, Richard Dudley -6A flying jim-bean(at)att.net wrote: > >All, >I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured >out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle >by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious >accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into >the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks >the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the >open position. >My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it >properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed >operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas? >Jim Bean >43 hours now on N99JA > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Spar mistake!
Date: Dec 19, 2006
On 18 Dec 2006, at 22:31, David Karlsberg wrote: > I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I > really have > no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have > a new > 3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second > most > inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I > have > adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am > concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What > should I do? > Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope > not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think. The bending loads in the inboard part of the spar are carried by spar bars. The purpose of the spar web (i.e. the flat sheet metal between the spar bars) is to keep the spar bars the proper distance apart. The extra hole you made will have a negligible effect on the ability of the spar web to perform its job. Your spar is still OK. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re:
Jim, I've got some pictures at home of how I did mine....based on another install. Essentially, I removed the original bracket that holds the two fittings that allow the flex hoses to convert to hard-line and replaced the rivets. I then made a bracket out of scrap extrusion that wraps around the back (actually front - firewall side) of the valve and sticks out the front (actually back towards the pilot) to hold an Adel clamp that actuates the valve (from below - that's the trick). The cable can then be routed along the center to mount just forward of the spar and next to / on my fuel selector valve mount. I added a part to the arm of the valve to allow the movement to be freer (new word!). As long as the number of cable bends are minimized - it works nicely. I'll try to remember to zap you direct. Not flying yet and no fluid in the system....of course YMMV....... Ralph Capen -----Original Message----- >From: jim-bean(at)att.net >Sent: Dec 18, 2006 9:51 PM >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com, <;;@unspecified-domain> >Subject: > > >All, >I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured >out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle >by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious >accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into >the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks >the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the >open position. >My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it >properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed >operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas? >Jim Bean >43 hours now on N99JA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE:
Date: Dec 19, 2006
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
I just got done installing my Matco parking brake that has the same on/off action (may be the same parking brake provided by Van's) in that when the brake module is installed in a normal configuration, pulling on a directly connected wire cable would release the brake, but that's undesirable. If you accidently hit it with your knee and push it in, you'll block hydraulic flow to the brake. The solution: turn it around to just about fully upside down. That reverses the lever action. Now, to set the brake, pull on the cable, to release, push...just the way it should be. The parking brake doesn't care that its upside down. Chuck Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim-bean(at)att.net Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 9:52 PM Subject: All, I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but never figured out how to use it. At first I thought that I could use the little handle by itself. Unfortunately this dream resulted in an almost serious accident when the tiny mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into the closed position. When this happens the next brake application locks the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped into the open position. My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to operate it properly. Simply putting a control cable on it results in reversed operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas? Jim Bean 43 hours now on N99JA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2006
From: rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available
Jon, saw your email on the Thunderbolt IO-390 EXP on the RV-list. Where can I get more info (specs, pricing) ? Walt Shipley 235 Mitchell Rd Chuckey, TN 37641 Chuckey, TN -----Original Message----- >From: "Jon A. Delamarter" <jdelamarter(at)lycoming.textron.com> >Sent: Dec 18, 2006 11:28 AM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: New Lycoming Thunderbolt Engine Available > > >I have a brand-new Thunderbolt IO-390-EXP tested, boxed, & ready to ship from the Lycoming factory here in Williamsport. Please email me for details. (jdelamarter(at)lycoming.textron.com) > >Jon A. Delamarter >Thunderbolt Manager >Lycoming Engines > >Note: I am purposely ommiting details and pricing in deference to the non-commercial nature of this website. I am posting only after contacting Matt Dralle for permission. >Thanks, Matt! > >-------- >Jon A. Delamarter >EAA# 780469 > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82243#82243 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2006
From: Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: Spar mistake!
I agree with Kevin. Keep on building and don't worry about it. A spar is basically a fancy shaped 'I' Beam and 'I' beams carry the vast majority of the load in the flanges, not the web. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB http://www.myrv7.com Kevin Horton wrote: > > On 18 Dec 2006, at 22:31, David Karlsberg wrote: > >> I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I >> really have >> no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new >> 3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most >> inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I have >> adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am >> concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should >> I do? >> Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope >> not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think. > > The bending loads in the inboard part of the spar are carried by spar > bars. The purpose of the spar web (i.e. the flat sheet metal between > the spar bars) is to keep the spar bars the proper distance apart. > The extra hole you made will have a negligible effect on the ability > of the spar web to perform its job. > > Your spar is still OK. > > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) > Ottawa, Canada > http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
Date: Dec 19, 2006
A kid recently asked me this question through EAA: "Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?" I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it. Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to answer this kid's question. thanks, brian -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Becki" <becki@fly-gbi.com>
Subject: RV8 for sale
Date: Dec 19, 2006
A friend has asked us to help him sell his RV8. It is a beautiful plane finished here at our facility in Texas in 2003. It can be seen at our website or directly at www.fly-gbi.com/RV8forsale.htm. Please give us a call if you are interested (940) 648-0841. Becki Orndorff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
A recent Vans SB requires safety-wiring the AN fittings inside the fuel tank. That doesn't answer the question though..... My thoughts are that in order to get the fittings sealed, they require an amount of torque that can't be overcome by vibration. Devil's advocate thought.....if the safety wire wasn't there, could the fitting loosen due to vibration....if the fitting were to loosen, what would be the result. This line of thinking might cause you to safety everything - or think about it anyway...... My jarheaded thinking, Ralph Capen MGySgt USMC retired - A6's forever....... -----Original Message----- >From: Brian Meyette <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> >Sent: Dec 19, 2006 10:19 AM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts > > >A kid recently asked me this question through EAA: > >"Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?" > >I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it. > >Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to answer this kid's question. > >thanks, >brian > > >-- > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: Spar mistake!
Date: Dec 19, 2006
A non-issue. Relax & continue brian http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Karlsberg Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 10:32 PM Subject: RV-List: Spar mistake! I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I really have no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new 3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I have adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should I do? Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think. Thanks, David -- 3:17 PM -- 1:45 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Spar mistake!
Date: Dec 19, 2006
Dave I would get the straight scoope from Van's. With that said it will not be a problem. Knowing me I would probably put a rivet in it if it didn't interfer with the Z bracket. Not a big deal just move on and drill those holes and pound those rivets. Frank @ SGU and SLC wiring ...............does it ever end >From: David Karlsberg <claypride(at)hotmail.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Spar mistake! >Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 19:31:45 -0800 > >I was back drilling my z brackets on my right wing. Somehow (I really have >no idea how this happened) I missed the pre-made hole and now have a new >3/16th inch hole in my spar about a half inch inboard of the second most >inboard Z bracket. The hole doesnt interfere with anything and I have >adequate distance from all of the other holes. I deburred it, but am >concerned it could make the spar weaker... or something. What should I do? >Leave it? Fill it with something? Patch it? Order a new spar (I hope >not!). I emailed vans too, but wanted to hear what you guys think. > >Thanks, >David > ><< woopse.jpg >> ><< woopse.jpg >> _________________________________________________________________ Get free, personalized online radio with MSN Radio powered by Pandora http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: Tapping flap pushrod
Date: Dec 19, 2006
I was looking at something else, and realized I had a picture of these rubber jaws I was referring to here See the first pic on this page: http://brian76.mystarband.net/tiedown.htm -----Original Message----- From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic2(at)starband.net] Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:17 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it, but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over. brian http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod Ralph, I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods. Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either. Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen > Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > > Fellow listers, > > I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links. > > First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just > spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in. > Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than > recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn > the > tap in one turn at a time. > The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the > 1/4x28 tap. > After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me. > > I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping > it. > > Any suggestions would be appreciated, > Ralph Capen > > -- 3:41 PM -- 3:41 PM -- 1:45 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Tapping flap pushrod
And I like the subject of that page by itself..... Another idea that I can steal! -----Original Message----- >From: Brian Meyette <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> >Sent: Dec 19, 2006 1:17 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > >I was looking at something else, and realized I had a picture of these >rubber jaws I was referring to here > >See the first pic on this page: > >http://brian76.mystarband.net/tiedown.htm > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic2(at)starband.net] >Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:17 AM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > >I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running >horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round >tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it, >but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you >want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else >wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a >back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over. >brian >http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan >Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > >Ralph, > >I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the >buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if >I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods. > >Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either. > >Tim > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen >> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod >> >> >> Fellow listers, >> >> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links. >> >> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just >> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in. >> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than >> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn >> the >> tap in one turn at a time. >> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the >> 1/4x28 tap. >> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me. >> >> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping >> it. >> >> Any suggestions would be appreciated, >> Ralph Capen >> >> >> >> > > >-- >3:41 PM > >-- >3:41 PM > >-- >1:45 PM > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2006
Subject: Re: Spar mistake!
From: David Karlsberg <claypride(at)hotmail.com>
Thanks all for your thoughts. Just thought you would want to know my official response. I have a top secret way of getting my emails returned quickly! So It looks like I will continue to build my plane. Too bad both wings are needed and are not doubled up for redundancy issues. >From ken scott... There's not much you can do at this point...but it is very unlikely that this small holes will cause any significant compromise. >From Ken Krueger... Hi David, While neither of us are particularly happy about the hole, there's no significant strength reduction as a result. Keep building! Ken Krueger, Engineer Van's Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 19, 2006
Subject: Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
I'd be interested in knowing if anyone found their fuel fittings loose while complying with their "Mandatory Service Bulletin." Mine were tight just like I left them. Now, I could understand if someone left theirs loose, they may find them that way! I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never leave a hose fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it, leave it completely disconnected. Dan Hopper RV-7A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2006
From: Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: RE: Parking Brake
You can also set the valve to the closed position and then apply the brakes. It is basically a check valve with a small cam to push the ball off of the seat for normal operation. This is why it just rotates around in a circle. I fly to West Texas quite a bit and it's sure nice to have that parking brake when you're trying to fuel up in a 35 knot wind. It's a good thing it was blowing right down the runway. I got home fast though. :-) I also installed a spring in case the cable were to "come from together," as a Cajun friend of mine once said. :-) Here is a picture of my installation. The position of the arm is open and it now has a spring holding it in that position and a cable that pulls it toward the camera about 90 deg. Like Greg suggested I used one of those small cables with the locking push button in the middle. http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=328 Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB http://www.myrv7.com Greg Young wrote: > > The valve operates by trapping the fluid after you apply the brakes. Apply > brakes, close valve and fluid and pressure stay put assuming no leaks. > Position the cable so pulling it closes the valve. Use a ratcheting or > locking cable so it will stay in either the open or closed position. > > Regards, > Greg Young - Houston (DWH) > RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix > Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A > > > Regards, > Greg Young > > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of >> jim-bean(at)att.net >> Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 8:52 PM >> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: >> >> >> All, >> I installed the catalog parking brake valve on my RV-8 but >> never figured out how to use it. At first I thought that I >> could use the little handle by itself. Unfortunately this >> dream resulted in an almost serious accident when the tiny >> mass of the tiny handle caused it to jiggle into the closed >> position. When this happens the next brake application locks >> the brake. Surprise! At the moment the handle is tie-wrapped >> into the open position. >> My post is to ask how others have fabricated a linkage to >> operate it properly. Simply putting a control cable on it >> results in reversed operation, IE pulled out would be off. Any ideas? >> Jim Bean >> 43 hours now on N99JA >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2006
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
>I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never >leave a hose fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it, >leave it completely disconnected. Excellent point Dan. The same applies to a canopy while taxiing. If these nuts were to be safety tied then there would be a "hole" in them to accommodate safety wire. Just my opinion. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: Tapping flap pushrod
Date: Dec 19, 2006
If you like custom ideas, there are some more on this page: http://brian76.mystarband.net/custom.htm brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 2:29 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod And I like the subject of that page by itself..... Another idea that I can steal! -----Original Message----- >From: Brian Meyette <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> >Sent: Dec 19, 2006 1:17 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > >I was looking at something else, and realized I had a picture of these >rubber jaws I was referring to here > >See the first pic on this page: > >http://brian76.mystarband.net/tiedown.htm > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic2(at)starband.net] >Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:17 AM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > >I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running >horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round >tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it, >but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you >want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else >wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a >back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over. >brian >http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan >Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > >Ralph, > >I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the >buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if >I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods. > >Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either. > >Tim > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen >> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod >> >> >> Fellow listers, >> >> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links. >> >> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just >> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in. >> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than >> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn >> the >> tap in one turn at a time. >> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the >> 1/4x28 tap. >> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me. >> >> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping >> it. >> >> Any suggestions would be appreciated, >> Ralph Capen >> >> >> >> > > >-- >3:41 PM > >-- >3:41 PM > >-- >1:45 PM > > -- -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
Date: Dec 19, 2006
Another trick I use throughout my plane is that all connections and fasteners get orange marking paint when they are torqued. I even put it on the flats on my AN nuts. Anything not marked with the orange paint (from Avery p/n 125) is not considered tight and wont pass the inspection brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hopperdhh(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 3:14 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts I'd be interested in knowing if anyone found their fuel fittings loose while complying with their "Mandatory Service Bulletin." Mine were tight just like I left them. Now, I could understand if someone left theirs loose, they may find them that way! I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never leave a hose fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it, leave it completely disconnected. Dan Hopper RV-7A <http://www.buildersbooks.com> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com> -- 1:45 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: Dec 19, 2006
I'm not altogether sure what I'd safety an AN fitting to in many cases. The SB was easy because there was an anti-rotation bracket there. When I opened my tank, my fitting in one wing was fine. But I'm glad for the SB because I'm pretty sure I didn't think to torque it properly. The other fitting in the other tank, when I opened it, was smothered with ProSeal, which taught me to ALWAYS take pictures of EVERYTHING for the log book. -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://rvhotline.expercraft.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82514#82514 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Tapping flap pushrod
Thanks...... -----Original Message----- >From: Brian Meyette <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> >Sent: Dec 19, 2006 3:58 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > >If you like custom ideas, there are some more on this page: > >http://brian76.mystarband.net/custom.htm > >brian > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen >Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 2:29 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod > > >And I like the subject of that page by itself..... > >Another idea that I can steal! > >-----Original Message----- >>From: Brian Meyette <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> >>Sent: Dec 19, 2006 1:17 PM >>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod >> >> >>I was looking at something else, and realized I had a picture of these >>rubber jaws I was referring to here >> >>See the first pic on this page: >> >>http://brian76.mystarband.net/tiedown.htm >> >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Brian Meyette [mailto:brianpublic2(at)starband.net] >>Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:17 AM >>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod >> >>I use rubber jaws in my vise that have a v-groove in them - one running >>horizontally and one running vertically. This will hold things like round >>tubing snugly without marring it. Sorry, I don't remember where I got it, >>but I'd think common tools sources would have it. Email me direct if you >>want a pic of it, if you aren't sure of what i mean. Also, as someone else >>wrote, make sure you use the tap with lube and work it in using a >>back-and-forth motion - fwd 1/8 turn, back 1/4 turn, over & over. >>brian >>http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan >>Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:50 PM >>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: RE: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod >> >> >>Ralph, >> >>I had a terrible time with that and marred mine up real bad. I used the >>buffing wheel to smooth it back out but wasn't happy about it. I figured if >>I ever re-visit that area I would replace them with the hex rods. >> >>Sorry I can't help as I didn't have the answer either. >> >>Tim >> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >>> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen >>> Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 6:25 PM >>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV-List: Tapping flap pushrod >>> >>> >>> Fellow listers, >>> >>> I've been trying to tap the pushrod for my flap links. >>> >>> First, I tried just running the tap through - the tap and tube would just >>> spin in whatever I was trying to hold the tube in. >>> Next, I tried drilling out the tube with a bit slightly smaller than >>> recommended for the tap - more successful, except that I could only turn >>> the >>> tap in one turn at a time. >>> The next thing I'll try is getting the correct size drill bit (#3) for the >>> 1/4x28 tap. >>> After that, buying the VA-256 RV9 rods might cure what ails me. >>> >>> I guess part of my issue is being able to hold the tube while I'm tapping >>> it. >>> >>> Any suggestions would be appreciated, >>> Ralph Capen >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>-- >>3:41 PM >> >>-- >>3:41 PM >> >>-- >>1:45 PM >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >-- > >-- > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2006
From: SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Spar mistake!
An extra hole in your spar *will* make it weaker. However the placement and other details of the hole will be the determining factors obviously. In general, any extra holes in the spar caps are worse than holes in the web -and as the hole gets nearer to the outside edge of the top or bottom cap the problem gets worse. A hole (or even a big nick) very near the top or bottom could well render the spar scrap. Van's will probably tell what they think -but not give you anything in writing and let you know you are on your own when it comes to things being 'not as designed' -but they've seen lots of flub-ups and it won't be anything new to them I bet. Scott N4ZW ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2006
From: G McNutt <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
Excellent lesson Dan, and from the same perspective, - never try to be helpful by starting the fittings for another person! George In Langley BC > > I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never leave > a hose fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it, > leave it completely disconnected. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Spar mistake!
Date: Dec 19, 2006
I "knicked" my inboard flange with the bucking bar when I was bucking those four inboard ribs and bottom skin way back when. I sanded it as best I could and primed it a little and didn't think twice about it until I read this. Shoot. Bob _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of SCOTT SPENCER Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 7:13 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: Spar mistake! An extra hole in your spar *will* make it weaker. However the placement and other details of the hole will be the determining factors obviously. In general, any extra holes in the spar caps are worse than holes in the web -and as the hole gets nearer to the outside edge of the top or bottom cap the problem gets worse. A hole (or even a big nick) very near the top or bottom could well render the spar scrap. Van's will probably tell what they think -but not give you anything in writing and let you know you are on your own when it comes to things being 'not as designed' -but they've seen lots of flub-ups and it won't be anything new to them I bet. Scott N4ZW ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Rudder Skin Dent Question...
From: "markpsmith" <markpatricksmith(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 19, 2006
I had a dent in my rudder skin caused by an oops while back riveting. I ended up getting it out, but may have caused more pain than I was expecting. Now I have a bunch of wrinkles out about a 6 square inch area. Also, I have a small 1" area that "pops" up and down. The wrinkles are only really noticable when I look down the skin and notice the smooth aluminum and then the wrinkles - yuck! As for the "pop", I figure this will go away when I close up the rudder. I pondered buying a new rudder skin - but I am probably over-reacting and don't really want to pay 77 bucks for cosmetics. Not to mention drilling out all the stiffeners. My questions are: Will the wrinkles go away when the paint is put on - and possibly some filler? Does the small pop in the skin affect anything? Thanks, Mark Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82580#82580 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jae Chang" <jc-matronics_rv(at)jline.com>
Subject: Rudder Skin Dent Question...
Date: Dec 19, 2006
Mark... Yes, you're probably overreacting. Chalk this up to experience and better judgement for next time. I would recommend moving on. Worst case scenario is, in several months or years later, you will be in a better position to evaluate YOURSELF whether you need a new rudder skin. You can order it then, though, I doubt it. Most every first-timer has a blemish(es) in their rudder. Jae My answers below: 1. probably 2. doubt it My questions are: Will the wrinkles go away when the paint is put on - and possibly some filler? Does the small pop in the skin affect anything? Thanks, Mark Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82580#82580 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Ruggles Scales - worth owning ??
From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Date: Dec 19, 2006
Its W&B time. There's various scales of unknown pedigree available locally for loan/rent .... but I know I'm going to need to re-do my weight and balance several times as I add paint, wheel pants, entertainment center (kidding) etc., etc., ... Ruggles tail dragger scales are $275 at Spruce (jeese what's another $275 - a drop in the bucket at this point) .. are they accurate (enough) ? functional (enough) ? Any experience out there with these puppies ? __g__ ========================================================== Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2006
Subject: Re: Spar mistake!
From: David Karlsberg <claypride(at)hotmail.com>
Other than living with =B3weak=B2 spar... Is there a solution (besides replacin g it)? I hope my plane does not fall apart! David I "knicked" my inboard flange with the bucking bar when I was bucking those four inboard ribs and bottom skin way back when. I sanded it as best I coul d and primed it a little and didn't think twice about it until I read this. Shoot. Bob On 12/19/06 5:13 PM, "SCOTT SPENCER" wrote: > An extra hole in your spar *will* make it weaker. However the placement a nd > other details of the hole will be the determining factors obviously. In > general, any extra holes in the spar caps are worse than holes in the web -and > as the hole gets nearer to the outside edge of the top or bottom cap the > problem gets worse. A hole (or even a big nick) very near the top or bott om > could well render the spar scrap. Van's will probably tell what they thin k > -but not give you anything in writing and let you know you are on your ow n > when it comes to things being 'not as designed' -but they've seen lots of > flub-ups and it won't be anything new to them I bet. > > > > Scott > > N4ZW > > > <http://www.buildersbooks.com> om> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: Ruggles Scales - worth owning ??
Date: Dec 20, 2006
Hi Gerry, When the time came to weigh the aircraft (RV6-A with a O-360 and a CS prop) I borrowed a set of three scales that originally came from ACS. these scales looked much like bathroom scales with steel brackets that allowed the scales to be positioned so as to be set up for two different weight ranges of aircraft. After adjusting the scales and setting up the aircraft, levelling etc as per instructions I found the empty weight to be 1156 lb. 1156 lb. was heavier than anticipated and I decided to pay a small fee to have very accurate professional digital aircraft scales brought into the hangar. Using the digital scales the empty weight came in at 1135 lb. This was a bit heavier (about 10 lb.) more than I had anticipated. The error provided with the ACS scales was pretty close and erred heavy which is in favour of safety as opposed weighing in light. The error percentage overall was not too bad but!... I have established an accurate empty weight for far less that the cost of the ACS scales. At their price I could re-weigh the aircraft four more times and still have enough to by a case of beer to celebrate the weigh in with.{[;-) If arranging for digital scales is out of the question: If you take great care with the calibrating ACS scales you might get closer results than I did. Also if you have a group of builders and several people chipped in, the ACS scales might be the "wiegh" to go. :-) Jim in Kelowna -It'll fly soon ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 10:27 PM Subject: RV-List: Ruggles Scales - worth owning ?? > > > Its W&B time. > > There's various scales of unknown pedigree available locally > for loan/rent .... but I know I'm going to need to re-do my > weight and balance several times as I add paint, wheel pants, > entertainment center (kidding) etc., etc., ... > > Ruggles tail dragger scales are $275 at Spruce (jeese what's > another $275 - a drop in the bucket at this point) > > .. are they accurate (enough) ? functional (enough) ? > > Any experience out there with these puppies ? > > __g__ > > ========================================================= > Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: wskimike(at)mchsi.com
Subject: Re: Rudder Skin Dent Question...
Date: Dec 20, 2006
The rudder is known for cracking anyway, especially if you have stretched the metal and it is working. You will see it after you paint, so my advise is to spend the money. > > I had a dent in my rudder skin caused by an oops while back riveting. I ended > up getting it out, but may have caused more pain than I was expecting. Now I > have a bunch of wrinkles out about a 6 square inch area. Also, I have a small > 1" area that "pops" up and down. > > The wrinkles are only really noticable when I look down the skin and notice the > smooth aluminum and then the wrinkles - yuck! As for the "pop", I figure this > will go away when I close up the rudder. > > I pondered buying a new rudder skin - but I am probably over-reacting and don't > really want to pay 77 bucks for cosmetics. Not to mention drilling out all the > stiffeners. > > My questions are: > > Will the wrinkles go away when the paint is put on - and possibly some filler? > > Does the small pop in the skin affect anything? > > Thanks, > Mark > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82580#82580 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
Date: Dec 20, 2006
I am intrigued by this question, too. I have rarely seen safety-wired AN flared fittings, but did find in the literature that the specification for the standard AN coupling nut (AN818) includes a drilled variant for safety wiring. The drilled part is designated AN818-L(X) where L is the nominal size. Also, Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices -- Aircraft Inspection and Repair (AC No. 43.13-1B) includes several pages of recommended techniques for safety wiring these nuts. Unfortunately, I could find no mention of when safety wiring is (or is not) required. Regards, Dean ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> Subject: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2006 10:19:00 -0500 A kid recently asked me this question through EAA: "Why aren't flare tube fittings and hose fittings safety wired?" I have kinda wondered about this myself sometimes. I seem to vaguely recall that when I was a crew chief in the USAF in the early 70's that some AN fitting nuts were safetied, but I could be imagining it. Does anyone have a good answer to this question? I'd like to be able to answer this kid's question. thanks, brian -- _________________________________________________________________ Find sales, coupons, and free shipping, all in one place! MSN Shopping Sales & Deals http://shopping.msn.com/content/shp/?ctid=198,ptnrid=176,ptnrdata 0639 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Strakes
Date: Dec 20, 2006
Does any one know how to contact the gentleman that is selling Strakes for 8's. Cappy ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tapping flap pushrod
Date: Dec 20, 2006
From: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Another approach is to use threaded rod and insert the threaded rod portion thru the aluminum tube with jam nuts at both ends for structural rigidity. Exchange the rod end bearings from male ends to female ends and you have a completed flap rod. Used Stainless thread all from McMaster/Carr, lubed up the thread-all and jammed nutted it closed. The reason for this approach was the mess of threading the hollow aluminum rod, as per Vans plans. I cut a few open (long ways) with a dremmel and was surprised of the crappy threading that was internal to the aluminum tubing. I am much happier with this threaded rod solution. When completed you can't tell any difference visually between the threaded hollow rod ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2006
From: Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: Spar mistake!
Although what Scott says is true, it's a matter of degree. I can't imagine that your extra hole in the spar web could affect it in any practical amount. Yes, it's weaker than it was but it was designed for 9g's so now it can probably only handle 8.9999999g's. (Note: There is no math here) Go build, go fly and be happy. I wouldn't try any type of fix. You could rivet a cap over it but I (notice this is just my worthless opinion) would think that you'd introduce more potential for cracking than the existing structural issue would call for. This airplane is very over designed and it can handle a few small mistakes here and there. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB http://www.myrv7.com David Karlsberg wrote: > Other than living with weak spar... Is there a solution (besides > replacing it)? > > I hope my plane does not fall apart! > > David > > > I "knicked" my inboard flange with the bucking bar when I was bucking > those four inboard ribs and bottom skin way back when. I sanded it as > best I could and primed it a little and didn't think twice about it > until I read this. Shoot. > > Bob > > > On 12/19/06 5:13 PM, "SCOTT SPENCER" wrote: > > An extra hole in your spar *will* make it weaker. However the > placement and other details of the hole will be the determining > factors obviously. In general, any extra holes in the spar caps > are worse than holes in the web -and as the hole gets nearer to > the outside edge of the top or bottom cap the problem gets worse. > A hole (or even a big nick) very near the top or bottom could well > render the spar scrap. Van's will probably tell what they think > -but not give you anything in writing and let you know you are on > your own when it comes to things being 'not as designed' -but > they've seen lots of flub-ups and it won't be anything new to them > I bet. > > > Scott > > N4ZW > * > > onth -- > me AWESOME FREE Gifts!) > tp://www.aeroelectric.com"><http://www.aeroelectric.com> > <http://www.buildersbooks.com> > http://www.kitlog.com"> > http://www.homebuilthelp.com"> > ://www.matronics.com/contribution > ; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > il Forum - > >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > > * > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Rudder Skin Dent Question...
Date: Dec 20, 2006
Hi Mark- > I had a dent in my rudder skin caused by an oops while back riveting... ...Also, I have a small > 1" area that "pops" up and down. > > Will the wrinkles go away when the paint is put on - and possibly some filler? > > Does the small pop in the skin affect anything? > > Thanks, > Mark When I did that, the advice I got from Van's was to set the rudder aside and revisit it once the plane was done. If it was the worst blemish I had at that time, then worry about replacing it. Probably good advice. Of course, I figured I needed to learn to do the work well, as well as to learn to correct my errors, so I 'fixed' my gaff. When I was done with the 'fix', I definitely had to order a new skin, as I had really trashed it. (If you go this route, just get new stiffeners, don't bother drilling out the old ones... you've got plenty of practice drilling rivets in your future!) As to the 'pop' in the skin, that is commonly called 'oil canning', like the bottom of an old fashioned oil can. I suspect that if your rudder were to do that in flight, you might experience some unplanned yaw. Probably not significant in the grand scheme of things, but surely annoying. To remedy that, I'd probably tweak the affected area to bias it towards staying concave and then apply a thin coat of filler to bring the surface back to flush. This all presupposes that proper balance of the surface can be maintained, of course. FWIW, YMMV, etc glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 20, 2006
Subject: Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
Hi All, I have had the benefit of having the help from an aerospace A&P mechanic for a couple of decades. There is an aerospace specification that applies to flare tube fittings in a fuel tank. The preferred method of retention for the flare tube fitting in a fuel tank is to use tank sealer. It needs to be at least .150" thick for at least .250" on the flare tube nut and .250" across onto the flare tube fitting. I haven't mentioned this before, because it is not an option provided by the design organization, Van's Aircraft. Regards, Jim Ayers In a message dated 12/20/2006 4:23:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, deanpichon(at)msn.com writes: I am intrigued by this question, too. I have rarely seen safety-wired AN flared fittings, but did find in the literature that the specification for the standard AN coupling nut (AN818) includes a drilled variant for safety wiring. The drilled part is designated AN818-L(X) where L is the nominal size. Also, Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices -- Aircraft Inspection and Repair (AC No. 43.13-1B) includes several pages of recommended techniques for safety wiring these nuts. Unfortunately, I could find no mention of when safety wiring is (or is not) required. Regards, Dean ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Porter" <december29(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Pitot tube covers
Date: Dec 20, 2006
Hey Guys, Just another request for a source on pitot tube covers that fit a Dynon AOA pitot? Apparently both Sporty's and Spruce have ones that are too small. Thanks, John 80002 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Oil Return Hoses
Date: Dec 20, 2006
My engine continues to have minor leaks around the little rubber hose segments which connect the cylinder head oil return lines to the sump. I've made several efforts to tighten the hose connectors but those efforts don't seem to have helped. I plan on replacing the hose segments at the next condition inspection. My question is: "How do I prevent/eliminate/minimize these leaks with the next set of hoses?" Thanks in advance, KB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JhnstnIII(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 20, 2006
Subject: Re: Rudder Skin Dent Question...
I did the same thing. Filled it with a mixture of micro balloons and epoxy. Took several applications of filler plus sanding to get it just right but now it's invisible. Depends how much you care about appearance. LeRoy Johnston/Dave White RV-6 Esperanza in Ohio. 50 hours flying. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2006
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Ruggles Scales - worth owning ??
I saw this message of the RANSflyers list and order one of the scales off of Amazon.com, I plan on using it for my W&B in a few weeks. It has a max weight of 440 lbs. --------------------- Today I performed the weight and balance on my S-6 using the Tanita HD-351 electronic scale. It was simplicity itself and took all of about 30 minutes. Here's my procedure: first make sure you have 3 planks of 2 x 6 about 2 feet long, plus some sheets of 1/8" and 1/4" plywood cut to the same size as the 2x6 to use as shims to level the airplane. I weighed the nose gear first. This was simple. After determining what I needed under the mains to make it level I rolled the airplane onto the 2x6's, pushed down on the tail and slid the scale under the nose wheel. Simple. For the mains I used a different procedure. I placed the scale in front of the 2x6 of the wheel I was weighing and simply rolled the airplane off the 2x6 and onto the scale (which is the same height - remember?). Just make sure you have sufficient length of 2x6 for the other main to roll on so it stays level - hence the two foot length. It was really a no brainer and a whole lot simpler than I thought it woul! d be. T he highest weight I recorded was 240.8 lbs which is approximately half the scales capacity. ------ Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ Gerry Filby wrote: > > >Its W&B time. > >There's various scales of unknown pedigree available locally >for loan/rent .... but I know I'm going to need to re-do my >weight and balance several times as I add paint, wheel pants, >entertainment center (kidding) etc., etc., ... > >Ruggles tail dragger scales are $275 at Spruce (jeese what's >another $275 - a drop in the bucket at this point) > >.. are they accurate (enough) ? functional (enough) ? > >Any experience out there with these puppies ? > >__g__ > >========================================================== >Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com >---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Return Hoses
Date: Dec 21, 2006
Leaks at the drain hose is a common problem. The way I fix it is to clean the hose and fittings very well. Now add a very small film of RTV engine gasket compound. Reassemble and snug the clamp. I had leaks up to about 10 hours. Used my little trick and no more drain hose leaks. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,972 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA ----Original Message Follows---- >My engine continues to have minor leaks around the little rubber hose >segments which connect the cylinder head oil return lines to the sump. I've >made several efforts to tighten the hose connectors but those efforts don't >seem to have helped. I plan on replacing the hose segments at the next >condition inspection. >My question is: "How do I prevent/eliminate/minimize these leaks with the >next set of hoses?" > Thanks in advance, > KB _________________________________________________________________ Get free, personalized online radio with MSN Radio powered by Pandora http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Oil return hoses?
Date: Dec 21, 2006
Has anyone used some EZ-Turn (fuel lube) in this application? Seems like a natural- glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_Delsol?= <michele.delsol(at)microsigma.fr>
Subject: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
Date: Dec 21, 2006
On the same score, if you torque down a nut or bolt, put some paint on it immediately. Any bolt/nut not marked as having been torqued down should be torqued down. So, when you inspect your work you should not have to ask yourself, did I torque this bolt down or not. Sounds elementary, but it is one of those little things which can make a lot of difference. Mich=E8le RV8 - Finishing _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh(at)aol.com Sent: mardi 19 d=E9cembre 2006 21:14 Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts I'd be interested in knowing if anyone found their fuel fittings loose while complying with their "Mandatory Service Bulletin." Mine were tight just like I left them. Now, I could understand if someone left theirs loose, they may find them that way! I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never leave a hose fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it, leave it completely disconnected. Dan Hopper RV-7A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: safety wiring AN fitting nuts
Date: Dec 21, 2006
Having had the AN nut on my "Flop tube" in the right tank come loose after 160 hours of flying with the resulting disconnect of the tube - which meant the last 3 1/2 gallons of fuel were not assessable - I agree. Don't put a hose/tube on a fitting unless you are going to tighten it to specs at that time - otherwise leave it off. I don't know - but I strongly suspect that my fitting was only on "finger tight" and eventually worked loose. Ed Ed Anderson Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html ----- Original Message ----- From: Mich=E8le Delsol To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2006 10:59 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts On the same score, if you torque down a nut or bolt, put some paint on it immediately. Any bolt/nut not marked as having been torqued down should be torqued down. So, when you inspect your work you should not have to ask yourself, did I torque this bolt down or not. Sounds elementary, but it is one of those little things which can make a lot of difference. Mich=E8le RV8 - Finishing ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh(at)aol.com Sent: mardi 19 d=E9cembre 2006 21:14 To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: safety wiring AN fitting nuts I'd be interested in knowing if anyone found their fuel fittings loose while complying with their "Mandatory Service Bulletin." Mine were tight just like I left them. Now, I could understand if someone left theirs loose, they may find them that way! I learned a lesson some time ago -- almost the hard way. Never leave a hose fitting finger tight. If you are not ready to tighten it, leave it completely disconnected. Dan Hopper RV-7A www.aeroelectric.comwww.kitlog.comhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-L ist ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil Return Hoses
Date: Dec 21, 2006
From: joelrhaynes(at)aol.com
I agree with Gary. I think the secret is to completely clean the hose and tube where it attaches of any oil. I had a persistent little leak and when I cleaned the parts well and roughed up the aluminum tube slightly with scotchbrite my problem was solved. No RTV was required in my case. No more leaks after 65 hours. Joel Haynes RV-7A N557XW 65 hours Bozeman From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Return Hoses Leaks at the drain hose is a common problem. The way I fix it is to clean the hose and fittings very well. Now add a very small film of RTV engine gasket compound. Reassemble and snug the clamp. I had leaks up to about 10 hours. Used my little trick and no more drain hose leaks. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,972 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA ----Original Message Follows---- >My engine continues to have minor leaks around the little rubber hose >segments which connect the cylinder head oil return lines to the sump. I've >made several efforts to tighten the hose connectors but those efforts don't >seem to have helped. I plan on replacing the hose segments at the next >condition inspection. >My question is: "How do I prevent/eliminate/minimize these leaks with the >next set of hoses?" > Thanks in advance, > KB _________________________________________________________________ Get free, personalized online radio with MSN Radio powered by Pandora http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
Date: Dec 21, 2006
Glen, I also do not think that this is correct. I have 1400 hrs on my RV8. No gap, no cooling problem I have always been taught that loose and poorly fit baffles were the primary cause of cooling problems. Dick Martin RV8 N233M the fast one ----- Original Message ----- From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:02 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem In a message dated 12/11/2006 10:32:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, aerobubba(at)earthlink.net writes: Hi Tim- >I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and >solutions. I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the opportunity to fly yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you need a bit of a gap between the fins and the baffles. glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net I don't think this is correct, Glen. Dan Hopper RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
Date: Dec 21, 2006
Tim, to add to Dan's comments, on the IO390s most of the air racers are using a spacing on the baffles that wrap around the botton side of the cylinder of 2 1/4" on the cylinder head portion and 1" on the cylinder barrel portion. Some engine installations will require minor tweaking of adding or subtracting a quarter inch to these demensions. Good luck. Dick Martin RV8 N233M the fast one ----- Original Message ----- From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:14 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem Tim, You do, of course, need adequate space for the cooling air to escape at the bottom of each cylinder. I think I have about 2 or 2 1/2 inches. Also, you should have an inter-cylinder baffle between each pair of cylinders. You do have these, don't you? Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 12/11/2006 11:07:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes: In a message dated 12/11/2006 10:32:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, aerobubba(at)earthlink.net writes: Hi Tim- >I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and >solutions. I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the opportunity to fly yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you need a bit of a gap between the fins and the baffles. glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net I don't think this is correct, Glen. Dan Hopper RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem. p://www.aeroelectric.com/">http://www.aeroelectric.com/ href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ttp://www.kitlog.com/">http://www.kitlog.com/ ttp://www.homebuilthelp.com/">http://www.homebuilthelp.com/ ://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?RV-List ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2006
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
On 12/21 8:07, dick martin wrote: > I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate > clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had > the Are you perhaps mentioning the gap between the #3 cylinder and the rear baffle? If so, I did see a decent drop (30F) when I placed a 1/8th gap there. -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying! http://www.evorocket.com - Building ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2006
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
It is correct, I know of at least a half dozen RV's or Rockets belonging to friends that have spaced the baffle away from the #3 cylinders with washers (#5 on the 540). It will drop the CHT's on those cylinders by 30 degrees, if for some reason those cylinders are running hot. It also works on the #1 cylinder as well. The theory is it allows more cooling air to flow around the hottest side of the cylinder which is the exhaust valve side.. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On 12/21/06, dick martin wrote: > > Glen, > I also do not think that this is correct. > I have 1400 hrs on my RV8. No gap, no cooling problem > I have always been taught that loose and poorly fit baffles were the > primary cause of cooling problems. > Dick Martin > RV8 N233M > the fast one > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Hopperdhh(at)aol.com > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Monday, December 11, 2006 10:02 AM > *Subject:* Re: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem > > In a message dated 12/11/2006 10:32:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, > aerobubba(at)earthlink.net writes: > > > Hi Tim- > > >I reported on these earlier and received lots of great info and > >solutions. > > I haven't noticed anyone referencing ensuring that you have adequate > clearance between the baffles and the edges of the fins. I've not had the > opportunity to fly yet, so I've not tinkered with this yet, but IIRC you > need a bit of a gap between the fins and the baffles. > > > glen matejcek > aerobubba(at)earthlink.net > > I don't think this is correct, Glen. > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem. > > * > > href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com > href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com > href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com > href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > * > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 2006
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
That is correct. A little gap on # 3 and also # 1 has a great effect. It is not magic. It is the fact the part of the cylinder that is up against the baffle has very shallow fins. The cylinders are NOT symetric but are all identical. The side fins are deeper on the exhaust valve side. The intake side the fins are shallow. So the #3 cylinder has it's shallow fins against the baffle. If the baffle starts high and is too tight you get no air flow down and under the cylinder. The air gets choked off on the shallow side and keeps it from getting to the lower part of the cylinder where the fins get deeper again. It has a significant effect. Mr. Dick Martin and gang there are many reasons that some engine run hot. Dick you have a totally different set up with a plenum don't you? I know the lower baffles are the same or similar but people do have cooling problems. Each RV is different. It can be a combo of things and may be you happen to gave good baffle gaps. Also the IO360 and IO390 angle valves are oil cooled engines, more than parallel valve engines which don't have oil squirters on the piston and head. >From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> >Subject: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem >It is correct, I know of at least a half dozen RV's or Rockets >belonging to friends that have spaced the baffle away from the >#3 cylinders with washers (#5 on the 540). __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
Date: Dec 22, 2006
Howdy D & D- Interesting observations. As I'm tinkering with cooling considerations and details, I'd love to run this to ground. A lot of info has been posted piecemeal, and I'd like to bring it all together in one place and clarify some stuff for posterity as well as my own edification. As I understand it: First, I absolutely agree that leaky baffles are very significant and the elimination of leaks is of prime importance. Looking closely at my 200 hp angle valve IO-360, the casting part line on the fwd side of #2 cyl and the aft side of #3 cyl in the region from the inbd edge of the intake port to the outbd end of the head is tangent to / flush with the edge of the cooling fins. From the inbd edge of the port to the base of the head, the min depth of the fins is about 1/8 inch. Therefore, baffles that were truly tight in this region would cause zero airflow around the back side of the #3 head and the lower front quadrant of #2 at their extremities, and little airflow through the next region inbd. My baffle kit from Van's fits such that there is a gap on the order of 1/8 inch between #3 cyl and the rear baffle. The way my particular baffle parts came, this gap is not really adjustable and isn't a product of installation error. There is about 3/32 gap between the heads in the inter cylinder area. I have no idea if Van's baffle kits have changed over time, and if perhaps some folks with the angle valve engines have older baffle kits that might not have the clearance gap built in. When convenient, could either / both of you guys verify that there is in fact no gap between your rear baffles and #3 at the casting part line? I'm not throwing rocks, casting aspersions, or anything else negative, but I am truly intrigued by your comments in light of other's experiences as well as the config of my baffle kit. TIA- glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net > Glen, > I also do not think that this is correct. > I have 1400 hrs on my RV8. No gap, no cooling problem > I have always been taught that loose and poorly fit baffles were the > primary cause of cooling problems. > I don't think this is correct, Glen. > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 22, 2006
Subject: RE: Tapping flap pushrod
Just go to NAPA store and get "Rapid Tap - for Aluminum" and your threads will come out very well ; mine did , several times. Bob Olds RV-4 Charleston,Arkansas ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil Return HosesOil Return Hoses
Date: Dec 22, 2006
From: "Herron, Al" <Al.Herron(at)Aerojet.com>
Just a caution about RTV silicone: never get it anywhere near your fuel system! I can tell you from personal experience that if it gets into your fuel it will swell up by a factor of about 6 and can potentially cause a blockage. This is for the clear RTV silicone; there may be variations of the product that are OK with fuel but be sure before you use it. I had to have a fuel tank on a Cessna removed & flushed because of a mechanic that used RTV as sealant on an access plate. The #8 attach screws pushed a little slug of RTV into the fuel tank, and each one swelled up into a blob of goo about the size of your thumb. AL Herron RV-7A Ready to install paint! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ?
From: Gerry Filby <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Date: Dec 22, 2006
I'm using a latex glove to keep the bugs and what have you out of my Dynon pitot - its just not becoming, looks vaguely like a medical mistake. Has anyone figured out which of the various covers available (Cessna, Dornier, Beechcraft ...) fit over the Dynon pitot ? __g__ ========================================================== Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 2006
Subject: Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ?
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
I've seen some use a bright colored tennis ball to cover the pitot.... -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com Gerry Filby wrote: > > > I'm using a latex glove to keep the bugs and what have you out > of my Dynon pitot - its just not becoming, looks vaguely like a > medical mistake. > > Has anyone figured out which of the various covers available > (Cessna, Dornier, Beechcraft ...) fit over the Dynon pitot ? > > __g__ > > ========================================================= > Gerry Filby gerf(at)gerf.com > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ?
From: "smittysrv" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com>
Date: Dec 22, 2006
I saw a cessna at a fly-in a few weeks back where the pilot stuck a small teddy bear on the "end" of the pitot tube. OUCH! It caught quite a few stares and comments. [Shocked] -------- Smittys RV-9A Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83054#83054 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernie & Margo" <ekells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings
Date: Dec 22, 2006
I am getting ready to lubricate my rod ends for the first time - push rods, control sticks, etc. I'm researching for a good lube product to use. I've heard that an LPS-3 Heavy Duty Inhibiter is supposed to be very good. I can't find anything about it - qualities or sources. I think a suitable lube should be a gummy spray that is non-runny, non-corrosive, non-abrasive, non-dripping, etc. A tall order for a critical, well-hidden use - don't really get to inspect these areas very often. What have others been using with good lube qualities and are there any downsides ? ? Thanks for any help. Ernie - RV-9A. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 2006
Subject: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Hi Ernie, A good teflon based grease will work fine. If its to sticky, dirt stays attached and wear goes up. Is the Rod end a teflon version or a bronze version. The cheepest is the steel on steel. If you have any heartburn, change the rod ends out for the bronze or teflon bearing version. Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ?
Date: Dec 22, 2006
There is a C-195 near me that for the past 15 or so years has used a stuffed DUCK on the pitot tube for a cover. Looks like the duck was flying and got it from behind. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,973 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA ----Original Message Follows---- From: "smittysrv" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> Subject: RV-List: Re: Pitot cover for Dynon Pitot Tube ? Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 11:09:20 -0800 I saw a cessna at a fly-in a few weeks back where the pilot stuck a small teddy bear on the "end" of the pitot tube. OUCH! It caught quite a few stares and comments. [Shocked] -------- Smittys RV-9A Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83054#83054 _________________________________________________________________ Experience the magic of the holidays. Talk to Santa on Messenger. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings
Date: Dec 23, 2006
LPS-3 is a lube that has good corrosion protection. It does get pretty gummy over time. It used to be one of my favorites, but I've pretty much switched over to Super Lube: http://www.super-lube.com/ The name kind of makes me think "cheap product". I have a lot of experience with lubricants though and this one is a winner. I use both the grease and oil for different applications. I buy other specialty greases that cost $100 for a couple of ounces. This product is very inexpensive. I buy it from Micro-Tools, but I'm pretty sure that McMaster-Carr has it too. I deal with a major instrument manufacturer who used to specify and sell hundreds of different lubes for their products. Five years ago they said, forget all the different lubricants we used to specify, just use Super Lube. I think the spray can is only useful for really hosing down something. I use it, but the pressure is so high in the can that applying a little is impossible, at least for me. I like the pen style applicators they sell with oil better for dispensing just a little bit. I'm interested in hearing what others think. Dave _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernie & Margo Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 11:13 AM Subject: RV-List: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings I am getting ready to lubricate my rod ends for the first time - push rods, control sticks, etc. I'm researching for a good lube product to use. I've heard that an LPS-3 Heavy Duty Inhibiter is supposed to be very good. I can't find anything about it - qualities or sources. I think a suitable lube should be a gummy spray that is non-runny, non-corrosive, non-abrasive, non-dripping, etc. A tall order for a critical, well-hidden use - don't really get to inspect these areas very often. What have others been using with good lube qualities and are there any downsides ? ? Thanks for any help. Ernie - RV-9A. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 2006
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: EGT on vetterman exhaust
I finally talked with Larry Vetterman about EGT probes. I think Larry's the best expert we have on RV exhausts. He continues to do careful experimentation with exhausts and speaks from experience. Larry's advice is to place the EGT probes no more than 2.5" down from the flange of the exhaust port of the cylinder. 1.5" to 2.0" is OK. He has experimented with different positions. You will get more consistent temperature readings this way, says Larry. Yes, the EGT probe won't last as long as one mounted further down. It still lasts pretty long, though. Larry's RV-4 has 1000hrs on its probes and they're still OK. This fits with Dale Walter's note that his are 2" down and have 736 hrs on them and work well. So, that is what I am going to do. Note that the 2.5" is measured from the face of the cylinder, so it includes the thickness of the gasket and the flange welded onto the end of the pipe. It's really up there close to the cylinder. -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 22, 2006
Subject: About time to sell my RV-4
N-898SC is about to go to the airport for final assembly which means my RV-4 N42917 is about to be sold. I figure I will hang a 4-Sale sign in it @ the LAL RV Fly-in. And then the real push @Sun-N-Fun. Anybody want a first shot? 91 RV-4 I need to look up all the times. It flys about every weekend and is just a good OLE RV. Not bad to look at and flys really good. It has some cosmetic issues that are not a big deal and is mechanically solid. About 500TT Less than 800 SMOH by Carter New CS prop from vans right before I bought it limited panel...loran, com, intercom, Transponder/c (All works A-OK) May even include a garmin 90 :) $35000......firm cause after the RV-8 is done I may start doing cosmetic stuff and we know what it is worth then. see it @ http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/RV4.html offlist @ cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com Sal Capra Lakeland FL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 2006
From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings
I just sprayed all rod ends with silicone lube......I am amazed at how silk y smooth the controls are now, not that they were bad before but a VERY not iceable change for the better!=0A =0AScott Bilinski=0ARV-8a=0A=0A_________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 22, 2006
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings
Mooneys have far more rod ends than an RV, because all controls are via torque tubes. Mooney specifies Triflo for lubricating the rod ends, every 100 hours and/or at annual. scott bilinski wrote: > I just sprayed all rod ends with silicone lube......I am amazed at how > silky smooth the controls are now, not that they were bad before but a > VERY noticeable change for the better! > > Scott Bilinski > RV-8a > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
Date: Dec 22, 2006
Glen, All baffles are tight. Some other thoughts! The IO 360 is a partially oil cooled engine. What size is your oil cooler? What Brand? How is it installed ? Are your oil temps cool or hot ( ideal is 190 - 210 degrees f ) Dick Martin RV8 N233M IO-390 (first engine was IO-360 10/1 operated 900 hr the fast one ----- Original Message ----- From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 8:16 AM Subject: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem > > Howdy D & D- > > Interesting observations. As I'm tinkering with cooling considerations > and > details, I'd love to run this to ground. A lot of info has been posted > piecemeal, and I'd like to bring it all together in one place and clarify > some stuff for posterity as well as my own edification. As I understand > it: > > First, I absolutely agree that leaky baffles are very significant and the > elimination of leaks is of prime importance. > > Looking closely at my 200 hp angle valve IO-360, the casting part line on > the fwd side of #2 cyl and the aft side of #3 cyl in the region from the > inbd edge of the intake port to the outbd end of the head is tangent to / > flush with the edge of the cooling fins. From the inbd edge of the port > to > the base of the head, the min depth of the fins is about 1/8 inch. > Therefore, baffles that were truly tight in this region would cause zero > airflow around the back side of the #3 head and the lower front quadrant > of > #2 at their extremities, and little airflow through the next region inbd. > > My baffle kit from Van's fits such that there is a gap on the order of 1/8 > inch between #3 cyl and the rear baffle. The way my particular baffle > parts came, this gap is not really adjustable and isn't a product of > installation error. > > There is about 3/32 gap between the heads in the inter cylinder area. > > I have no idea if Van's baffle kits have changed over time, and if perhaps > some folks with the angle valve engines have older baffle kits that might > not have the clearance gap built in. > > When convenient, could either / both of you guys verify that there is in > fact no gap between your rear baffles and #3 at the casting part line? > I'm > not throwing rocks, casting aspersions, or anything else negative, but I > am > truly intrigued by your comments in light of other's experiences as well > as > the config of my baffle kit. > > TIA- > > glen matejcek > aerobubba(at)earthlink.net > >> Glen, >> I also do not think that this is correct. >> I have 1400 hrs on my RV8. No gap, no cooling problem >> I have always been taught that loose and poorly fit baffles were the >> primary cause of cooling problems. > > >> I don't think this is correct, Glen. >> >> Dan Hopper >> RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem. >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings
Date: Dec 22, 2006
I've always thought of LPS 3 as a corrosion inhibiter more than a lubricant. It makes a waxy film, but isn't that great as a lube. I've been using Boeshield T-9 for quite a while now. It penetrates, lubes and stays around a long time. I'd avoid silicone based lubes if you're going to be painting. The stuff is really hard to get rid of. http://www.boeshield.com/ Pax, Ed Holyoke -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ernie & Margo Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 11:13 AM Subject: RV-List: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings I am getting ready to lubricate my rod ends for the first time - push rods, control sticks, etc. I'm researching for a good lube product to use. I've heard that an LPS-3 Heavy Duty Inhibiter is supposed to be very good. I can't find anything about it - qualities or sources. I think a suitable lube should be a gummy spray that is non-runny, non-corrosive, non-abrasive, non-dripping, etc. A tall order for a critical, well-hidden use - don't really get to inspect these areas very often. What have others been using with good lube qualities and are there any downsides ? ? Thanks for any help. Ernie - RV-9A. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 2006
Subject: Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
Glen, I used the baffle kit from Vans. I haven't cut down the front deflectors. I will let you know about the gaps as soon as I have the top cowl off again -- in the next few days. I have a big SW oil cooler fed with a 4 inch SCAT tube on the right side of the firewall. Active area is 5.5 by 5.5 inches. I made up an aluminum shroud which is about half good as far as the airflow goes. The cooler is mounted at about 40 degrees from vertical. My oil temp very seldom goes above the vernatherm temp of about 190 degrees. Most I see is about 230 on climbout on a really hot day. I could force it higher by climbing slower, longer though. I'd say I have about the right amount of oil cooling. I went to the SW cooler after using a Niagara at first. The SW helped -- maybe 10 or 15 degrees. One weird thing is that my number 4 CHT runs about 20 degrees cooler than the other 3. Typical temps are around 350 degrees F. with number 4 being 320. The other 3 are usually within a 15 degree window, but no. 4 is always noticeably cooler. This almost has to be the baffling. It has been the same with 2 different engines, although I used the same fuel injection and mags on both. I tested the CHT probes by clamping no. 2 and no. 4 together in a piece of copper tubing, and heating it with my hot air gun. They tracked together within about 1 degree F. Dan Hopper RV-7A IO-360-A1A In a message dated 12/22/2006 10:25:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, martin(at)gbonline.com writes: Glen, All baffles are tight. Some other thoughts! The IO 360 is a partially oil cooled engine. What size is your oil cooler? What Brand? How is it installed ? Are your oil temps cool or hot ( ideal is 190 - 210 degrees f ) Dick Martin RV8 N233M IO-390 (first engine was IO-360 10/1 operated 900 hr the fast one ----- Original Message ----- From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Friday, December 22, 2006 8:16 AM Subject: RV-List: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem > > Howdy D & D- > > Interesting observations. As I'm tinkering with cooling considerations > and > details, I'd love to run this to ground. A lot of info has been posted > piecemeal, and I'd like to bring it all together in one place and clarify > some stuff for posterity as well as my own edification. As I understand > it: > > First, I absolutely agree that leaky baffles are very significant and the > elimination of leaks is of prime importance. > > Looking closely at my 200 hp angle valve IO-360, the casting part line on > the fwd side of #2 cyl and the aft side of #3 cyl in the region from the > inbd edge of the intake port to the outbd end of the head is tangent to / > flush with the edge of the cooling fins. From the inbd edge of the port > to > the base of the head, the min depth of the fins is about 1/8 inch. > Therefore, baffles that were truly tight in this region would cause zero > airflow around the back side of the #3 head and the lower front quadrant > of > #2 at their extremities, and little airflow through the next region inbd. > > My baffle kit from Van's fits such that there is a gap on the order of 1/8 > inch between #3 cyl and the rear baffle. The way my particular baffle > parts came, this gap is not really adjustable and isn't a product of > installation error. > > There is about 3/32 gap between the heads in the inter cylinder area. > > I have no idea if Van's baffle kits have changed over time, and if perhaps > some folks with the angle valve engines have older baffle kits that might > not have the clearance gap built in. > > When convenient, could either / both of you guys verify that there is in > fact no gap between your rear baffles and #3 at the casting part line? > I'm > not throwing rocks, casting aspersions, or anything else negative, but I > am > truly intrigued by your comments in light of other's experiences as well > as > the config of my baffle kit. > > TIA- > > glen matejcek > aerobubba(at)earthlink.net > >> Glen, >> I also do not think that this is correct. >> I have 1400 hrs on my RV8. No gap, no cooling problem >> I have always been taught that loose and poorly fit baffles were the >> primary cause of cooling problems. > > >> I don't think this is correct, Glen. >> >> Dan Hopper >> RV-7A 200 HP Angle Valve IO-360, No gap and no cooling problem. >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 2006
Subject: Re: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
In a message dated 12/23/2006 8:48:24 AM Eastern Standard Time, Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes: One weird thing is that my number 4 CHT runs about 20 degrees cooler than the other 3. Typical temps are around 350 degrees F. with number 4 being 320. The other 3 are usually within a 15 degree window, but no. 4 is always noticeably cooler. This almost has to be the baffling. It has been the same with 2 different engines, although I used the same fuel injection and mags on both. I tested the CHT probes by clamping no. 2 and no. 4 together in a piece of copper tubing, and heating it with my hot air gun. They tracked together within about 1 degree F. Dan Hopper RV-7A IO-360-A1A Oops! My math is not too good. I should say 20 or 30 degrees cooler on number 4. Dan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Lubricaton for Rod End Bearings
Date: Dec 24, 2006
I've always thought of LPS 3 as a corrosion inhibiter more than a lubricant. It makes a waxy film, but isn't that great as a lube. I've been using Boeshield T-9 for quite a while now. It penetrates, lubes and stays around a long time. I'd avoid silicone based lubes if you're going to be painting. The stuff is really hard to get rid of. http://www.boeshield.com/ Pax, Ed Holyoke Thanks for the tip. I use Boelube for my cutters and drills. I haven't tried T-9. I see that you can buy it at Sears, looks like you have to buy it with an acid etch too for about $20. I think the can of Super-Lube is $8.00: http://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=31110-F I used to use Triflow in the past but don't care for it much. It depends on your application I guess, but I cannot stand the smell of it. If you use it once every six months I guess it doesn't matter much. I use lubricants like this every day though and I won't use something this stinky. I agree with the caution about using silicones. I have never found them to work as lubricants and the paint issue is a real problem. Note that while any lubricant may cause problems with surface contamination and Super Lube could too, it is a synthetic hydrocarbon (Polytetrafluoroethylene) and not a silicone. Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BillRVSIX(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 2006
Subject: Installing Vacuum pump Fittings
Hello I am having trouble with the vacuum pump fittings, on the pump its self and on the instruments. I have sprayed them with silicone spray like the directions say. They say not to use Teflon tape or any liquid form stuff. But when I install the fittings with the silicon and just snug it up I can't get the fittings off without destroying the fittings I Evan had one snap off when I tried to back it out and I only snuged it up a minute before. Any one have any idea what I am doing wrong. I am using the Rapco vacuum pump Kit. Thanks Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2006
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: registration results
Last month I posted a question about how long it takes to get FAA registration. I'd heard stories about it taking 3 to 6 months. I mailed in my registration forms on Nov. 28 and just got the registration back. Twenty five days. Way faster than I expected. Now I guess it's only a matter of time before the state tax people hunt me down. Anarchy, as a system of government, has its attractions. -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: registration results
Date: Dec 23, 2006
As an ahem, er, "hypothetical exercise" only, are there any tips to pass along as to how to minimize the State Sales Tax? Anonymous replies only will be greatly appreciated as I'm just a few months away from facing this dilemma. Anonymous RV7A ----- Original Message ----- From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 5:08 PM Subject: RV-List: registration results > > Last month I posted a question about how long it takes to get FAA > registration. I'd heard stories about it taking 3 to 6 months. I mailed > in my registration forms on Nov. 28 and just got the registration back. > Twenty five days. Way faster than I expected. > > Now I guess it's only a matter of time before the state tax people hunt me > down. Anarchy, as a system of government, has its attractions. > -- > Tom Sargent, RV-6A > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 23, 2006
Subject: Re: registration results
Just remember - It isn't an airplane until it has been inspected and approved for flight !! Until then it is a collection of metal pieces. I went through that in Calif. and Arkansas - sent them a letter so stating both times and it worked. I did notify them when it was ready to fly. Bob Olds RV-4 - twice Charleston,Arkansas ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 23, 2006
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: registration results
Garry: I think they are unpredictable. I know a velocity builder here in arizona who showed them a receipt for just the kit and they were satisfied with just the tax on that. It was probably about 1/3 of what he spent on the plane. Another builder said he pointed out that most of the purchases were made more than 5 years ago and they let him off the hook entirely. Some statute of limitiations, he claimed. I figure I'll have to play it by ear. Garry wrote: > > As an ahem, er, "hypothetical exercise" only, are there any tips to > pass along as to how to minimize the State Sales Tax? Anonymous > replies only will be greatly appreciated as I'm just a few months away > from facing this dilemma. > > Anonymous > RV7A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Lubrication for Rod End Bearings
Date: Dec 24, 2006
Hi Dave- As someone who's never used these products, it seems like the little 'pencil' oiler would be the way to go for lubing rod ends without lubing everything else nearby. Have you used that product, or is there something I'm missing here? TIA- > I think the can of Super-Lube is > $8.00: > > http://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=31110-F Note that while > any lubricant may cause problems with surface contamination and Super Lube > could too, it is a synthetic hydrocarbon (Polytetrafluoroethylene) and not a > silicone. glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Continuation on High CHT problem
Date: Dec 24, 2006
Hi Dan- Thanks for all the info. It's going to be very interesting seeing how this plays out. It looks like your cooler is about 20% larger than mine, and is mounted similarly. I spent a lot of time trying to come up with a good diffuser for the cooler- time will tell if it is a pipe dream. Your CHT split is interesting. I'll be very curious to see if I have a similar situation, since I'm picking the cooler flow off the opposite side, also. Hi Dick- My cooler is the recommended 4 3/8 by 5 3/4 (post debacle) Positech. It is suspended from the engine mount, aircraft right, in a nearly horizontal position. It is fed by a moderately sexy diffuser that will be fed by a 4" scat off the plenum. I hope to fly it this spring. After all, it's only been 9 years, 5 jobs, 2 stretches of unemployment, and one degree since I started this project... I forget: Is that part of the glamour or of the glory of aviation? I get so cornfused! ; - ) glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Lubrication for Rod End Bearings
Date: Dec 25, 2006
Hi Dave- As someone who's never used these products, it seems like the little 'pencil' oiler would be the way to go for lubing rod ends without lubing everything else nearby. Have you used that product, or is there something I'm missing here? TIA- Hi Glen, I buy a half dozen of the pencil oilers at a time. In the past I purchased syringes and filled them with the oil I used before Super Lube to be able to apply just the right amount. Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 24, 2006
Subject: Re: RE: Lubrication for Rod End Bearings
In a message dated 12/24/2006 7:10:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, aerobubba(at)earthlink.net writes: http://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=31110-F What do you suppose the symbol with the airplane crossed out means? Dan Hopper RV-7A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Date: Dec 25, 2006
Subject: Re: RE: Lubrication for Rod End Bearings
NOTIFY <http://www.micro-tools.com/store/images/site/Lilac/no_air.gif> What do you suppose the symbol with the airplane crossed out means? Dan Hopper RV-7A The product doesn't meet the FAA's regulations for flammability (for shipment). It has to ship ground freight. This lubricant is dry, carried in a solvent. When you apply it, the solvent flashes off leaving the dry lubricant behind. This can be desirable because it will not adhere dirt the way a lubricant that remains liquid might. Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: registration results
Date: Dec 24, 2006
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
I suppose one could register it as a unique model rather than an RV. Then when you are contacted by the state you could say that you built it from planes and that you ordered the raw materials from Aircraft Spruce and show several thousand in receipts and pay tax on those. But if you registered it as an RV model, then all bets are off as they know the value. Just thinking out loud of course! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garry Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 8:08 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: registration results As an ahem, er, "hypothetical exercise" only, are there any tips to pass along as to how to minimize the State Sales Tax? Anonymous replies only will be greatly appreciated as I'm just a few months away from facing this dilemma. Anonymous RV7A ----- Original Message ----- From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 5:08 PM Subject: RV-List: registration results > > Last month I posted a question about how long it takes to get FAA > registration. I'd heard stories about it taking 3 to 6 months. I mailed > in my registration forms on Nov. 28 and just got the registration back. > Twenty five days. Way faster than I expected. > > Now I guess it's only a matter of time before the state tax people hunt me > down. Anarchy, as a system of government, has its attractions. > -- > Tom Sargent, RV-6A > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: registration results
Date: Dec 24, 2006
You are one of the lucky ones, I sent mine in for Rans S7S Oct 13th and still don't have it. Ollie 6A Central FL. ----- Original Message ----- From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 5:08 PM Subject: RV-List: registration results > > Last month I posted a question about how long it takes to get FAA > registration. I'd heard stories about it taking 3 to 6 months. I mailed > in my registration forms on Nov. 28 and just got the registration back. > Twenty five days. Way faster than I expected. > > Now I guess it's only a matter of time before the state tax people hunt me > down. Anarchy, as a system of government, has its attractions. > -- > Tom Sargent, RV-6A > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 24, 2006
From: Carlos A Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Lubrication for Rod End Bearings
David Burton wrote: > NOTIFY > > What do you suppose the symbol with the airplane crossed out means? > > Dan Hopper > > RV-7A > >*The product doesnt meet the FAAs regulations for flammability (for shipment). It has to ship ground freight* > >* * > >*This lubricant is dry, carried in a solvent. When you apply it, the solvent flashes off leaving the dry lubricant behind. This can be desirable because it will not adhere dirt the way a lubricant that remains liquid might.* > >* * > >*Dave* > >* * > >* * > >* > > >* > I believe it to mean that they will not air ship it. They will send it ground. Carlos in AZ N174PP - Rudder finished yesterday (Minus fiberglass) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 24, 2006
Subject: Re: RE: Lubrication for Rod End Bearings
Carlos and Dave, Silly me! I jumped to the conclusion that it was not to be USED on airplanes! Thanks for straightening me out on this matter. Merry Christmas, Dan In a message dated 12/24/2006 10:14:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, d-burton(at)comcast.net writes: What do you suppose the symbol with the airplane crossed out means? Dan Hopper RV-7A The product doesn=99t meet the FAA=99s regulations for flammabil ity (for shipment). It has to ship ground freight This lubricant is dry, carried in a solvent. When you apply it, the solvent flashes off leaving the dry lubricant behind. This can be desirable because it will not adhere dirt the way a lubricant that remains liquid might. Dave I believe it to mean that they will not air ship it. They will send it ground. Carlos in AZ N174PP - Rudder finished yesterday (Minus fiberglass) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 24, 2006
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RE: Lubrication for Rod End Bearings
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 24, 2006
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: oil sump bolts
I just started looking at my oil sump bolts to pick one to hold an Adel clamp to restrain wiring. I notcide that most of them are installed upside down (head lower than the nut). This engine is as Bart Lalonde gave it to me. I thought all bolts in a plane were supposed to be installed ith the head on top if at all possible. It's also easier to torque the bolt to the proper value if the nut is in the bottom where you can get to it with a socket wrench+extendion. BTW: What is the proper torque value for the oil sump bolts? -- Tom S. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: registration results
Date: Dec 24, 2006
Garry, I llive in Wisconsin where we have a very aggressive tax bureau. When I finished my RV8, I paid them a tax on the invoice value from Vans on the basic fuselage kit. Many others in my state have done the same. Dick ----- Original Message ----- From: "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 7:07 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: registration results > > As an ahem, er, "hypothetical exercise" only, are there any tips to pass > along as to how to minimize the State Sales Tax? Anonymous replies only > will be greatly appreciated as I'm just a few months away from facing this > dilemma. > > Anonymous > RV7A > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 5:08 PM > Subject: RV-List: registration results > > >> >> Last month I posted a question about how long it takes to get FAA >> registration. I'd heard stories about it taking 3 to 6 months. I mailed >> in my registration forms on Nov. 28 and just got the registration back. >> Twenty five days. Way faster than I expected. >> >> Now I guess it's only a matter of time before the state tax people hunt >> me down. Anarchy, as a system of government, has its attractions. >> -- >> Tom Sargent, RV-6A >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 24, 2006
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: registration results
Hi Dick, That is a very common practice. Many have done the same here in Florida. I am wondering what happens if and when one sells that aircraft for its value, as completed. Does the tax organization get that information and compare it with the value as originally taxed? Perhaps someone has that information, a related comment or actual experience with that scenario. Regards and Merry Christmas. Richard Dudley dick martin wrote: > > Garry, > I llive in Wisconsin where we have a very aggressive tax bureau. When > I finished my RV8, I paid them a tax on the invoice value from Vans on > the basic fuselage kit. Many others in my state have done the same. > Dick > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 7:07 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: registration results > > >> >> As an ahem, er, "hypothetical exercise" only, are there any tips to >> pass along as to how to minimize the State Sales Tax? Anonymous >> replies only will be greatly appreciated as I'm just a few months >> away from facing this dilemma. >> >> Anonymous >> RV7A >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 5:08 PM >> Subject: RV-List: registration results >> >> >>> >>> Last month I posted a question about how long it takes to get FAA >>> registration. I'd heard stories about it taking 3 to 6 months. I >>> mailed in my registration forms on Nov. 28 and just got the >>> registration back. Twenty five days. Way faster than I expected. >>> >>> Now I guess it's only a matter of time before the state tax people >>> hunt me down. Anarchy, as a system of government, has its attractions. >>> -- >>> Tom Sargent, RV-6A >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 25, 2006
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Lubrication for Rod End Bearings
I thought they never need oiling? Won't actual OIL (petroleum) cause dust & dirt to be attracted? May be some dry (soap like) Teflon lube, like Boeing lube? Any experts? __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Re: registration results
Date: Dec 25, 2006
The French have a philosophy that anything you can do to avoid paying taxes is morally justified. A more practical point: A few years ago United Airplines was considering building a huge maintenance/overhaul base and to intice them to come to Colorado the state legislature enacted a law that exempts aircraft parts from sales taxes. Guess what: A homebuilt experimental aircraft is made up of 'aircraft parts' so we don't pay any tax upon registration. At one time Colorado did have a plane sticker/tax but it cost more to administer the program than it produced so the provision was cancelled. Overall result: no taxes of any sort on our planes. (But if you purchase a plane its a different story.) FWIW Happy Holidays. John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 25, 2006
Subject: Re: oil sump bolts
In a message dated 12/24/2006 4:01:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, sarg314(at)comcast.net writes: I just started looking at my oil sump bolts to pick one to hold an Adel clamp to restrain wiring. I notcide that most of them are installed upside down (head lower than the nut). This engine is as Bart Lalonde gave it to me. I thought all bolts in a plane were supposed to be installed ith the head on top if at all possible. It's also easier to torque the bolt to the proper value if the nut is in the bottom where you can get to it with a socket wrench+extendion. BTW: What is the proper torque value for the oil sump bolts? -- Tom S. In this case I don't think it matters which way the bolts go. You can probably torque the bolts instead of the nuts and it will be just fine, IMHO. The proper torque from the Lycoming Overhaul Manual is 75 inch pounds. Dan Hopper RV-7A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 27, 2006
From: Steve Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>
Subject: Re: Ping
Pictures, pictures I say, we need more pictures. We need to see just what is causing the sudden shortage of black Imron. Steve Eberhart RV-7A, incidence set and it is starting to get frisky with it's hangar mate N3XG. I'm thinking we might get an RV-3 out of this :-) http://www.newtech.com/n14se/P1010326.JPG Dana Overall wrote: > > One ping only................................. > > Dana Overall > Richmond, KY i39 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 27, 2006
From: George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net>
Subject: Torque value for KB-090
I have a KB-090 fuel line fitting to attach fuel line to my fuel pump. This fitting has a ring seal and a stop nut. what is the torque value for the stop nut? The fitting seems to move easily unless it is torqued down real tight! -- George H. Inman ghinman(at)mts.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 27, 2006
Subject: Firewall Bend
Hi all, I am just starting the fuselage. There is an instruction to put an 8 degree forward bend in the firewall. I clamped the firewall between my bench and a "sharp edged board" for the bend. It was pretty sharp at the edges, but much more gradual in the middle. How crucial is this? Should I really work at getting a sharp bend all the way across? Regards, Michael Wynn RV-8, Fuselage San Ramon, California ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 27, 2006
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net>
Subject: Superior Cylinder Recall
I was just surfing around and happened to look at Superior's web site and found this recall that was issued on Dec. 18, 06 http://www.superiorairparts.com/sb0601/letter.asp I'll be checking mine tomarrow, I have all of 0.5 hrs on mine and hoping to start putting alot more on them in Feb. I hope they are not part of this recall. -- ------ Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall Bend
Date: Dec 27, 2006
Mike, The bend in the firewall in my opinion is important, but not crucial. I would suggest that you try to improve the bend so that it is constant all of the way across the firewall. If you lack sheetmetal forming tools such a a brake, you could try a square piece of hardwood the length of the bend and tap it against the bend location with a mallet. the sheetmetal must have some type of backing to pound against such as a piece of angle or better yet a hardwood board with a groove cut in it to receive the bend. Use your imagination, their are many other ways to accomplish this bend..Note , always practice on a piece of scrap first. The first bend is the best bend, continous pounding will work harden the metal and ruin it. Good luck. Dick Martin RV8 N233M the fast one ----- Original Message ----- From: MLWynn(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 6:38 PM Subject: RV-List: Firewall Bend Hi all, I am just starting the fuselage. There is an instruction to put an 8 degree forward bend in the firewall. I clamped the firewall between my bench and a "sharp edged board" for the bend. It was pretty sharp at the edges, but much more gradual in the middle. How crucial is this? Should I really work at getting a sharp bend all the way across? Regards, Michael Wynn RV-8, Fuselage San Ramon, California ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Firewall Bend
Date: Dec 27, 2006
Michael, I'm curious that you are putting this bend in so soon. You stated you have just begun the fuse. I just finished this task a few months ago and was fitting the forward hood over the instrument panel and the construction manual stated to do it then. Now I may be wrong I have not yet seen the new drawings nor the construction print so it may be different now. Anyways I put a small 1x2 strip of hardwood on the fwd side of the firewall just under the bend line and a heavy duty piece of angle aluminum on the aft side sandwiching the firewall. Using the clamp handles as the lever I gentle put the bend in checking each time with an angle finder. The main thing you are looking for is that the 821 has good transition from the panel bulkhead, baggage bulkhead, and firewall(801). It will be a lot more clear when you have the roll-over bar in place with the glare shield cut-out done and you are positioning the 821 side to side and fore and aft for drilling. Hope this helps and if not e-mail me and I will produce some photo's for you. Good luck, Bruce G RV8 Fuse >From: MLWynn(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Firewall Bend >Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2006 19:38:54 EST > >Hi all, > >I am just starting the fuselage. There is an instruction to put an 8 >degree >forward bend in the firewall. I clamped the firewall between my bench and >a >"sharp edged board" for the bend. It was pretty sharp at the edges, but >much more gradual in the middle. How crucial is this? Should I really >work at >getting a sharp bend all the way across? > >Regards, > >Michael Wynn >RV-8, Fuselage >San Ramon, California > > _________________________________________________________________ Get live scores and news about your team: Add the Live.com Football Page www.live.com/?addtemplate=football&icid=T001MSN30A0701 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 27, 2006
From: G McNutt <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Superior Cylinder Recall
Thanks for the heads up. A pain to read the serial numbers, wish they would stamp them on the top rather than the side of the cylinder. Applies to cylinders manufactured April to November 2005, my cylinders manufactured Feb 05 and checked out OK on Superiors web site. George in Langley BC Bobby Hester wrote: > > I was just surfing around and happened to look at Superior's web site > and found this recall that was issued on Dec. 18, 06 > > http://www.superiorairparts.com/sb0601/letter.asp > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 28, 2006
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Superior Cylinder Recall
Applies to cylinders manufactured April to November 2005 I didn't find this tidbit anywhere in the SB. Where did you get this info? Jeff Point RV-6 flying w/ possibly affected cylinders (gulp!) RV-8 tail Milwaukee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 28, 2006
Subject: Re: Firewall Bend
Michael, I have read the responses so far, and I must admit that I'm probably out to lunch here. But, I didn't put a "bend" in the firewall at all. I just let it happen on its own, and IMHO it looks fine. Given that you have started the bend, use a piece of hardwood about a foot or two long (to hammer lightly on) to help shape your bend in the middle. This piece is like a mirror and will show every minor imperfection. Dan Hopper RV-7A -- In the backwoods of the Midwest. In a message dated 12/27/2006 7:42:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, MLWynn(at)aol.com writes: Hi all, I am just starting the fuselage. There is an instruction to put an 8 degree forward bend in the firewall. I clamped the firewall between my bench and a "sharp edged board" for the bend. It was pretty sharp at the edges, but much more gradual in the middle. How crucial is this? Should I really work at getting a sharp bend all the way across? Regards, Michael Wynn RV-8, Fuselage San Ramon, California ________________________________________________________________________________
From: EMAproducts(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 28, 2006
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 12/27/06
12/2006 Gentlemen, Currently I have less than 30% of our customers current e-mail addresses. I am attempting to update our mailing lists to see if they have any questions re their RiteAngle IIIb Angle of Attack systems. Occasionally I get a call from someone who purchased a system several years ago and still do not have system installed or set-up due to various reasons. Should you have any questions, comments, photos of system installed in your plane, endorsements or whatever re: the RiteAngle IIIb system please send it to this address _riteangle3(at)aol.com_ (mailto:riteangle3(at)aol.com) Thankfully, since the IIIb system has gone into production, we have had no changes in the electronics, however we now have a professional written setup manual. Sincerely Elbie EM Aviation, LLC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: FW: SNF Changes
Date: Dec 28, 2006
Beware anyone flying to SnF... the masses are being turned loose on us. _____ 2007 SNF Attendees, Check out this article in the local paper, the flight line will be "open" to anyone who buys a ticket, no more checking wristbands at the flightline. http://www.theledger.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20061228/NEWS/612280447/ 1039 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: SNF Changes
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: Dec 28, 2006
This is the part I don't understand. Aren't we supposed to be introducting flying, airplanes, and pilots to "the masses" so that when the local governments want to close our airports to build more homes, people don't say "pilots? Just a bunch of rich, snobby, rich boys, here's the keys to the bulldozer?" I'm sure there are stories like the ones John described below. But I also know that the vast majority of people respect the airplanes and heed the signs thereon. In fact, in that entire RV area at OSH last year, I don't recall seeing a single wrapper. Maybe that side of the field is just more respectful. I don't know what the solution is. But I think an automatic "they're the public, therefor they shouldn't be allowed near us" is probably not the first one I'd recommend. The idea of staking out a rope around your aircraft might be a good start, but I also think we need to be proactive in coming up with ways to present a better image of who we are, why we fly, and why non-flyers should protect what we do. Bob Collins RV Builder's Hotline http://rvhotline.expercraft.com -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://rvhotline.expercraft.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84030#84030 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel Injection Line Run
Date: Dec 28, 2006
I've a question for anyone who has done this. I have a Bendix Fuel Injection system installed in my RV-6A, with the servo mounted vertically where one normally has a carb. I'm in the process of running the fuel line from the servo to the distribution spider. I've seen installations that run this line right in front of the sump, to a hole in the inter-cylinder baffling and up to the spider. Using Vetterman's cross over pipes, I've about 7/8" clearance between the pipes and the sump. Has anyone done this and could they share pictures of their installation. Thanks for your help. Marty ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: SNF Changes
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: Dec 28, 2006
cjensen(at)dts9000.com wrote: > Bob, > > I agree whole heartedly. We do not want to treat the public as the > great unwashed and imply they unworthy of touching an plane. After all, > our ability to have airports and airplances may well rest with their > good-will. > -- I would think a separate private parking area, perhaps for those who don't want to have their aircraft available wouldn't be a bad idea. And, certainly, in any case there needs to be a POP organization as at OSH. On the whole, I'd say a major fly-in is a lousy place to go if you don't want anyone touching your plane, though, although someday I hope to find out what it's like to be able to fly a plane to a major fly-in. Or not. [Laughing] -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://rvhotline.expercraft.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84054#84054 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty(at)tds.net>
Subject: Re: SNF Changes
Date: Dec 28, 2006
I have never noticed anything around the Cardinal that we have parked on the North Forty at OSH for the last five years. The EAA staff and members do a great job with the pilot community and the general public keeping the grounds and plane's safe. I think the folks looking over the RV's know what they are looking at and understand the hard work and value of these airplanes. I walked by the RV's for a number of years and really never thought much about them. But sooner or later they will get you and then you are hooked, and that is what the AOPA and the EAA are hoping for. This certainly helps build a strong membership and a powerful organization. Working on the wings in the Northwood of MN. Jim - RV9a ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 3:12 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: SNF Changes > > This is the part I don't understand. Aren't we supposed to be introducting > flying, airplanes, and pilots to "the masses" so that when the local > governments want to close our airports to build more homes, people don't > say "pilots? Just a bunch of rich, snobby, rich boys, here's the keys to > the bulldozer?" > > I'm sure there are stories like the ones John described below. But I also > know that the vast majority of people respect the airplanes and heed the > signs thereon. In fact, in that entire RV area at OSH last year, I don't > recall seeing a single wrapper. Maybe that side of the field is just more > respectful. > > I don't know what the solution is. But I think an automatic "they're the > public, therefor they shouldn't be allowed near us" is probably not the > first one I'd recommend. > > The idea of staking out a rope around your aircraft might be a good start, > but I also think we need to be proactive in coming up with ways to present > a better image of who we are, why we fly, and why non-flyers should > protect what we do. > > > Bob Collins > RV Builder's Hotline > http://rvhotline.expercraft.com > > -------- > Bob Collins > St. Paul, Minn. > RV Builder's Hotline (free!) > http://rvhotline.expercraft.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84030#84030 > > > -- > 12/28/2006 12:31 PM > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 28, 2006
From: G McNutt <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Superior Cylinder Recall
Hi Jeff That info is on this page, bottom of second or third paragraph. http://www.superiorairparts.com/sb0601/ I know how you feel, my engine was delivered in Nov 05 but cylinders were manufactured in Feb 05. George in Langley BC Jeff Point wrote: > Applies to cylinders manufactured April to November 2005 > I didn't find this tidbit anywhere in the SB. Where did you get this > info? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 28, 2006
From: gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: SNF Changes
having worked for many a year now at Oshkosh i can attest to the horror stories, i have seen the wing as diaper change areas, i have seen folks poking in fabric covered wings and caught folks stuffing coke cans in exhausts, folding chairs stacked 4 deep against the fiberglass bodies, broken pitot's because bags were hung from it. my winner was the guy smoking at the flight line asking me if the avgas dripping out of a slanted highwing was flammable. After all the years at Oshkosh i am surprised not more gets damaged. As for the RV area, the RV area is relatively protected as it is far, far, away from the flight line during the airshow. It is the folks who come for a 'spectacle' who mass along the flight line on, under and amongst the parked planes. if the RV area were front and center u would see the same problems amongst the RV's. Gert Bob Collins wrote: > > This is the part I don't understand. Aren't we supposed to be introducting flying, airplanes, and pilots to "the masses" so that when the local governments want to close our airports to build more homes, people don't say "pilots? Just a bunch of rich, snobby, rich boys, here's the keys to the bulldozer?" > > I'm sure there are stories like the ones John described below. But I also know that the vast majority of people respect the airplanes and heed the signs thereon. In fact, in that entire RV area at OSH last year, I don't recall seeing a single wrapper. Maybe that side of the field is just more respectful. > > I don't know what the solution is. But I think an automatic "they're the public, therefor they shouldn't be allowed near us" is probably not the first one I'd recommend. > > The idea of staking out a rope around your aircraft might be a good start, but I also think we need to be proactive in coming up with ways to present a better image of who we are, why we fly, and why non-flyers should protect what we do. > > > Bob Collins > RV Builder's Hotline > http://rvhotline.expercraft.com > > -------- > Bob Collins > St. Paul, Minn. > RV Builder's Hotline (free!) > http://rvhotline.expercraft.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84030#84030 > > > -- ------------------------------------------------------------------- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. -------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 28, 2006
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: engine baffle safety wire
My engine baffles were installed long ago, but I never put in the safety wire on the underside of the cylinders that is supposed to pull the lower ends of the baffles tight around the cooling fins. I just stretched a string across there today and it is clear that the safety wire would rub against one of the oil return lines. It's the same story on both sides of the engine. I guess I could extend the little flange of the baffle to reposition the safety wire attach point lower, or I could rivet a little bracket of some sort to the to the intercylinder baffle to push the wire down. (Come to think of it, it would probably wear through anything I put there.) Does any one have a tried and true solution to this problem? Or am I missing something here? -- Tom S., RV-6A, wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 28, 2006
From: gert <gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: SNF Changes
North forty is miles away from the show center were the masses congregate. Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty wrote: > > > I have never noticed anything around the Cardinal that we have parked > on the North Forty at OSH for the last five years. The EAA staff and > members do a great job with the pilot community and the general public > keeping the grounds and plane's safe. I think the folks looking over > the RV's know what they are looking at and understand the hard work > and value of these airplanes. I walked by the RV's for a number of > years and really never thought much about them. But sooner or later > they will get you and then you are hooked, and that is what the AOPA > and the EAA are hoping for. This certainly helps build a strong > membership and a powerful organization. > > Working on the wings in the Northwood of MN. > > Jim - RV9a > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Collins" > > To: > Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 3:12 PM > Subject: RV-List: Re: SNF Changes > > >> >> This is the part I don't understand. Aren't we supposed to be >> introducting flying, airplanes, and pilots to "the masses" so that >> when the local governments want to close our airports to build more >> homes, people don't say "pilots? Just a bunch of rich, snobby, rich >> boys, here's the keys to the bulldozer?" >> >> I'm sure there are stories like the ones John described below. But I >> also know that the vast majority of people respect the airplanes and >> heed the signs thereon. In fact, in that entire RV area at OSH last >> year, I don't recall seeing a single wrapper. Maybe that side of the >> field is just more respectful. >> >> I don't know what the solution is. But I think an automatic "they're >> the public, therefor they shouldn't be allowed near us" is probably >> not the first one I'd recommend. >> >> The idea of staking out a rope around your aircraft might be a good >> start, but I also think we need to be proactive in coming up with >> ways to present a better image of who we are, why we fly, and why >> non-flyers should protect what we do. >> >> >> Bob Collins >> RV Builder's Hotline >> http://rvhotline.expercraft.com >> >> -------- >> Bob Collins >> St. Paul, Minn. >> RV Builder's Hotline (free!) >> http://rvhotline.expercraft.com >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84030#84030 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> 12/28/2006 12:31 PM >> >> > > -- ------------------------------------------------------------------- Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. -------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: SNF Changes
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: Dec 28, 2006
gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net wrote: > having worked for many a year now at Oshkosh i can attest to the horror > stories, i have seen the wing as diaper change areas, i have seen folks > poking in fabric covered wings and caught folks stuffing coke cans in > exhausts, folding chairs stacked 4 deep against the fiberglass bodies, I say this only HALF in jest. Ban strollers. I hate strollers. Folks are pushing strollers, looking up and BANG...right into my ankles. Seriously, I too have seen the crowds along the flightline. I don't think I'd park there. Plus the atmosphere in the South 40 is wayyyyyyyy too cool to ever want to leave. -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://rvhotline.expercraft.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84074#84074 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: engine baffle safety wire
Date: Dec 28, 2006
As per Van's, I used thick-walled plastic tubing...the same stuff used for brake tubing in some spots. The safety wire runs through the plastic, and the plastic serves as anti-chafe. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1162 hours) www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 3:33 PM Subject: RV-List: engine baffle safety wire > > My engine baffles were installed long ago, but I never put in the > safety wire on the underside of the cylinders that is supposed to pull the > lower ends of the baffles tight around the cooling fins. I just stretched > a string across there today and it is clear that the safety wire would rub > against one of the oil return lines. It's the same story on both sides of > the engine. > > I guess I could extend the little flange of the baffle to reposition > the safety wire attach point lower, or I could rivet a little bracket of > some sort to the to the intercylinder baffle to push the wire down. (Come > to think of it, it would probably wear through anything I put there.) > > Does any one have a tried and true solution to this problem? Or am I > missing something here? > -- > Tom S., RV-6A, wiring > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 28, 2006
Subject: Re: engine baffle safety wire
In a message dated 12/28/2006 3:39:35 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, sarg314(at)comcast.net writes: My engine baffles were installed long ago, but I never put in the safety wire on the underside of the cylinders that is supposed to pull the lower ends of the baffles tight around the cooling fins. I just stretched a string across there today and it is clear that the safety wire would rub against one of the oil return lines. It's the same story on both sides of the engine. I guess I could extend the little flange of the baffle to reposition the safety wire attach point lower, or I could rivet a little bracket of some sort to the to the intercylinder baffle to push the wire down. (Come to think of it, it would probably wear through anything I put there.) Does any one have a tried and true solution to this problem? Or am I missing something here? ===================================== Mine are threaded rods from the hobby store that I bent a joggle in fitted with springs (to allow for movement) and high temp lock nuts and they have worked fine. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 830hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 28, 2006
From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: engine baffle safety wire
I used a threaded rod.....(4-40? dont remember) to pull the baffles togethe r and to keep it from rubbing on the tubes I placed car fuel line over the drain tubes....you know, slice it down one side and slip it on, 400 plus ho urs and it works great.....so far!=0A =0AScott Bilinski=0ARV-8a=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 3:33:20 PM=0ASubj ect: RV-List: engine baffle safety wire=0A=0A=0A--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 =0A=0A My engine baffles were installed long ago, but I never put in the =0Asafety wire on the underside of the cy linders that is supposed to pull =0Athe lower ends of the baffles tight aro und the cooling fins. I just =0Astretched a string across there today and it is clear that the safety =0Awire would rub against one of the oil return lines. It's the same story =0Aon both sides of the engine.=0A=0A I gue ss I could extend the little flange of the baffle to reposition =0Athe safe ty wire attach point lower, or I could rivet a little bracket of =0Asome so rt to the to the intercylinder baffle to push the wire down. =0A(Come to t hink of it, it would probably wear through anything I put there.)=0A=0A Does any one have a tried and true solution to this problem? Or am I =0Amis ==================0A=0A__________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 28, 2006
From: G McNutt <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: engine baffle safety wire
Hi Tom Wire will eventually cut through the baffle tabs. If you want a nice fix use 1/8 stainless welding rod instead of wire. After cutting and forming, thread each end of the rod for #4 fiber lock nuts. To allow for expansion & contraction use washers then small compression springs between the nut and baffle flange (flanges are held by spring pressure not nut tension). The welding rod is stiff enough that it does not need to run straight and can be shaped to fit under/around the oil line. George in Langley BC Tom wrote ---------------------------- > My engine baffles were installed long ago, but I never put in the > safety wire on the underside of the cylinders that is supposed to pull > the lower ends of the baffles tight around the cooling fins. I just > stretched a string across there today and it is clear that the safety > wire would rub against one of the oil return lines. It's the same > story on both sides of the engine. > > I guess I could extend the little flange of the baffle to > reposition the safety wire attach point lower, or I could rivet a > little bracket of some sort to the to the intercylinder baffle to push > the wire down. (Come to think of it, it would probably wear through > anything I put there.) > > Does any one have a tried and true solution to this problem? Or am > I missing something here? > -- > Tom S., RV-6A, wiring > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 28, 2006
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Superior Cylinder Recall
Mine were F05, but when I typed in the serial numbers in the online check form 3 were listed as Recalled. ------ Surfing the web from my laptop in Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ G McNutt wrote: > > Hi Jeff > > That info is on this page, bottom of second or third paragraph. > http://www.superiorairparts.com/sb0601/ > I know how you feel, my engine was delivered in Nov 05 but cylinders > were manufactured in Feb 05. > > George in Langley BC > > > Jeff Point wrote: > >> Applies to cylinders manufactured April to November 2005 >> I didn't find this tidbit anywhere in the SB. Where did you get this >> info? >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 28, 2006
Subject: Fuel Injection Line Run
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Hi Marty, I have the AFP fuel injection vertical system. I ran my line from the spider down thru the baffle and then back above the inlet pipes and then around the sump and down to the controller. I had to provide a support where it turns from the rearward direction to the center and downward direction. I can do some pix if you want. I'll attach some that I already have. I found that the AFP lines were too long. I had them provide a 45 deg. fitting and then I cut the line from the fuel pump to the controller so it had a smooth run to the controller. The 45 deg. fitting allowed the line to clear the tri gear mount and go nicely to the controller. The "battery and fuel line cable support" pix shows how I attached the line as it came down from the spider and ran it rearward. The "throttle cable bracket---" pix shows the hose coming from the spider that was repositioned via a adel clamp at the back end of the throttle support bracket. The line now runs along the gold / white interface of the two brackets thru the adel clamp where it then turns toward the center and then down to the fuel controller. Maybe this will help. Lengths of hose partly determine where the lines will run. I tried to keep them away from the exhaust system as much as possible. I'll probably put heat reflective aluminized tape around the critical areas where it comes close .... Jim Nelson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: engine baffle safety wire
Date: Dec 28, 2006
Yep, that's the ticket. Simple and effective but Dan forgot his own hint about using small washers on each end of the safety wire to keep the wire from pulling through the aluminum baffles. Don't make it more complicated than it needs to be. Phil On Dec 28, 2006, at 6:33 PM, Dan Checkoway wrote: > > As per Van's, I used thick-walled plastic tubing...the same stuff > used for brake tubing in some spots. The safety wire runs through > the plastic, and the plastic serves as anti-chafe. > > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D (1162 hours) > www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> > To: > Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 3:33 PM > Subject: RV-List: engine baffle safety wire > > >> >> My engine baffles were installed long ago, but I never put in >> the safety wire on the underside of the cylinders that is supposed >> to pull the lower ends of the baffles tight around the cooling >> fins. I just stretched a string across there today and it is >> clear that the safety wire would rub against one of the oil return >> lines. It's the same story on both sides of the engine. >> >> I guess I could extend the little flange of the baffle to >> reposition the safety wire attach point lower, or I could rivet a >> little bracket of some sort to the to the intercylinder baffle to >> push the wire down. (Come to think of it, it would probably wear >> through anything I put there.) >> >> Does any one have a tried and true solution to this problem? Or >> am I missing something here? >> -- >> Tom S., RV-6A, wiring >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: engine baffle safety wire
Date: Dec 28, 2006
I used a bit different method... I first riveted a doubler on the flanges, then used a pop rivet where the safety wire goes through the flange with the mandrel punched out. The safety wire goes through the pop rivet then. Provides better protection from the safety wire than a washer. Randy Lervold www.rv-3.com www.rv-8.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "G McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 5:07 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: engine baffle safety wire > > Hi Tom > > Wire will eventually cut through the baffle tabs. If you want a nice fix > use 1/8 stainless welding rod instead of wire. > After cutting and forming, thread each end of the rod for #4 fiber lock > nuts. To allow for expansion & contraction use washers then small > compression springs between the nut and baffle flange (flanges are held > by spring pressure not nut tension). The welding rod is stiff enough that > it does not need to run straight and can be shaped to fit under/around the > oil line. > > George in Langley BC > > > Tom wrote ---------------------------- >> My engine baffles were installed long ago, but I never put in the >> safety wire on the underside of the cylinders that is supposed to pull >> the lower ends of the baffles tight around the cooling fins. I just >> stretched a string across there today and it is clear that the safety >> wire would rub against one of the oil return lines. It's the same story >> on both sides of the engine. >> >> I guess I could extend the little flange of the baffle to reposition >> the safety wire attach point lower, or I could rivet a little bracket of >> some sort to the to the intercylinder baffle to push the wire down. >> (Come to think of it, it would probably wear through anything I put >> there.) >> >> Does any one have a tried and true solution to this problem? Or am I >> missing something here? >> -- >> Tom S., RV-6A, wiring >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 29, 2006
Subject: Re: engine baffle safety wire
In a message dated 12/28/2006 9:34:14 PM Central Standard Time, phil(at)petrasoft.net writes: Yep, that's the ticket. Simple and effective but Dan forgot his own hint about using small washers on each end of the safety wire to keep the wire from pulling through the aluminum baffles. >>> I riveted "doublers" (maybe .040 or .063?) the same size as the tabs on the ends of the baffles before drilling the holes for the safety wire- no significant wear from safety wire so far (375 hrs) but would be hard to do with baffles already installed... Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2006
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-7 rear deck question
I'm about to rivet the rear deck to the longerons on my -7 fuselage. The instructions don't mention whether to install the various shims/spacers that go between the bulkheads & the rear deck. Have y'all been placing these as you install the read deck, or waiting until the tail goes on & sliding them in, hoping that they are aligned correctly? Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2006
From: SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: SNF Changes
Both bad and good to this -like OSH. Be nice though if they passed on the additional gate revenue to the pilots who pay $100's or even $1000's to bring their planes there. They are, after all making their money from our being there. Scott N4ZW ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-7 rear deck question
Date: Dec 29, 2006
I put them on when I intalled the rear deck. Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 8:15 AM Subject: RV-List: RV-7 rear deck question I'm about to rivet the rear deck to the longerons on my -7 fuselage. The instructions don't mention whether to install the various shims/spacers that go between the bulkheads & the rear deck. Have y'all been placing these as you install the read deck, or waiting until the tail goes on & sliding them in, hoping that they are aligned correctly? Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 29, 2006
Subject: Re: engine baffle safety wire
You guys are all paranoid! (Come on, its a joke!) Just wire 'em up and get the thing flying. Mine has been flying 2 years now and I can't see where the safety wire has cut into the baffle at all. When it does, I'll fix it. As for the oil return lines, I think I just bent them up or down a little to clear the wires. Dan Hopper RV-7A about 200 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Intake Tubes...
Date: Dec 29, 2006
Anyone have the intake tubes for an O320 handy that can tell me how long they are? Thanks! -Bill www.rv8a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2006
From: George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net>
Subject: engine baffle safety wire
My engine baffles were installed long ago, but I never put in the safety wire on the underside of the cylinders that is supposed to pull the lower ends of the baffles tight around the cooling fins. I just stretched a string across there today and it is clear that the safety wire would rub against one of the oil return lines. It's the same story on both sides of the engine. I guess I could extend the little flange of the baffle to reposition the safety wire attach point lower, or I could rivet a little bracket of some sort to the to the intercylinder baffle to push the wire down. (Come to think of it, it would probably wear through anything I put there.) Does any one have a tried and true solution to this problem? Or am I missing something here? -- Tom S., RV-6A, wiring I had the same problem and replaced two of the aluminum tube lines,to make room for the wires that hold the baffle George H. Inman ghinman(at)mts.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: Kitplanes attack
Date: Dec 29, 2006
I got an email this morning from a Phil Penny at Belvoir Media Group, claiming that Kitplanes magazine owns the homebuilt plane vendor directory spreadsheet I created this fall from various sources, mainly the Internet. He claims it's theirs because I used similar codes as they did in their "pay-per-view" directory, like "wf" for wood & fabric, "m" for metal, etc. I guess he thought I should have used "Z" for metal and "QP" for wood & fabric. He also objected to the fact that my directory has data similar to theirs. Well, I hope it's similar; otherwise someone has incorrect data; a plane's wingspan, for example, is a rather fixed value. It's bad enough that these people are so cheap they even charge subscribers to view things on their web page, but this really takes the cake. Phil threatened to sue me if I don't take it down, and I told Phil it wasn't theirs or copied from theirs, and I won't be taking it down. So, now he's "referring this to our legal counsel". Apparently, there is no limit to their greed. If anyone wants a copy of it, I suggest getting it now. Also, several people have given me updated info to put into it, so if you know of any incorrect or missing data, please let me know, and I will update it with that info. I'm only on a couple lists, but if you're on other homebuilder lists, you might want to forward this URL to other lists you are on, so more people can access the directory while it's still available (just in case they are successful if getting it removed). I put a lot of work into this, as a resource that we can all keep up to date and share. It's a shame there are people and companies like this out there to harass people who are trying to do something decent for everyone. The directory is at http://brian76.mystarband.net/misc.htm#directory -- 8:22 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2006
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Kitplanes attack
If you have some of your original sources - and they're not from Belvoir Media Group - you should be able to win. Meanwhile, sounds like another JPI gorilla is loose! -----Original Message----- >From: Brian Meyette <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> >Sent: Dec 29, 2006 2:36 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Kitplanes attack > > >I got an email this morning from a Phil Penny at Belvoir Media Group, >claiming that Kitplanes magazine owns the homebuilt plane vendor directory >spreadsheet I created this fall from various sources, mainly the Internet. >He claims it's theirs because I used similar codes as they did in their >"pay-per-view" directory, like "wf" for wood & fabric, "m" for metal, etc. I >guess he thought I should have used "Z" for metal and "QP" for wood & >fabric. He also objected to the fact that my directory has data similar to >theirs. Well, I hope it's similar; otherwise someone has incorrect data; a >plane's wingspan, for example, is a rather fixed value. > >It's bad enough that these people are so cheap they even charge subscribers >to view things on their web page, but this really takes the cake. > >Phil threatened to sue me if I don't take it down, and I told Phil it wasn't >theirs or copied from theirs, and I won't be taking it down. So, now he's >"referring this to our legal counsel". Apparently, there is no limit to >their greed. > >If anyone wants a copy of it, I suggest getting it now. Also, several people >have given me updated info to put into it, so if you know of any incorrect >or missing data, please let me know, and I will update it with that info. > >I'm only on a couple lists, but if you're on other homebuilder lists, you >might want to forward this URL to other lists you are on, so more people can >access the directory while it's still available (just in case they are >successful if getting it removed). > >I put a lot of work into this, as a resource that we can all keep up to date >and share. It's a shame there are people and companies like this out there >to harass people who are trying to do something decent for everyone. > >The directory is at > >http://brian76.mystarband.net/misc.htm#directory > > >-- >8:22 AM > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mitchell Goodrich" <mgoodrich(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Kitplanes attack
Date: Dec 29, 2006
Brian, guess its time for alittle letter writing from the homebuilt community to Kit Planes. Do you have any emial links for us?? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 2:37 PM Subject: RV-List: Kitplanes attack I got an email this morning from a Phil Penny at Belvoir Media Group, claiming that Kitplanes magazine owns the homebuilt plane vendor directory spreadsheet I created this fall from various sources, mainly the Internet. He claims it's theirs because I used similar codes as they did in their "pay-per-view" directory, like "wf" for wood & fabric, "m" for metal, etc. I guess he thought I should have used "Z" for metal and "QP" for wood & fabric. He also objected to the fact that my directory has data similar to theirs. Well, I hope it's similar; otherwise someone has incorrect data; a plane's wingspan, for example, is a rather fixed value. It's bad enough that these people are so cheap they even charge subscribers to view things on their web page, but this really takes the cake. Phil threatened to sue me if I don't take it down, and I told Phil it wasn't theirs or copied from theirs, and I won't be taking it down. So, now he's "referring this to our legal counsel". Apparently, there is no limit to their greed. If anyone wants a copy of it, I suggest getting it now. Also, several people have given me updated info to put into it, so if you know of any incorrect or missing data, please let me know, and I will update it with that info. I'm only on a couple lists, but if you're on other homebuilder lists, you might want to forward this URL to other lists you are on, so more people can access the directory while it's still available (just in case they are successful if getting it removed). I put a lot of work into this, as a resource that we can all keep up to date and share. It's a shame there are people and companies like this out there to harass people who are trying to do something decent for everyone. The directory is at http://brian76.mystarband.net/misc.htm#directory -- 8:22 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2006
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Kitplanes attack
I just had a thought. Instead of keeping something like a database on a personal website, why not upload it to a wikipedia site, and everybody would have the capability to both add data and to correct invalid data ...... which would make it a community effort and not subject to attack by Kitplanes. I'm not a subscriber, but this kind of action doesn't do our 'family' any good, and would be one reason I wouldn't renew. The comment about just giving in instead of fighting the situation is why most 'big guys' get their way ..... even if they're not in the right. Sad, but it's lawyers who are running this country ...... and some of them are the worst offenders!!! Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Kitplanes attack
Date: Dec 29, 2006
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
As mentioned in other posts, tabulating of facts is not a problem, only if they have a unique design or content that imbues special value do they have some unique, that may or may not be copyrightable. If you contend that you developed your information independently, even if you had a copy of their list, you should still be good to go. Map makers check for theft by inserting phantom towns or misspelled words. Then, if a new map shows up that was supposedly developed independently, but has the same phantom towns or misspelled words, then they are going to have a problem. In your case, as along as your facts are the same as the kit list, no problem. If one of your 'facts' replicates an error in the kit list (intentional or not), then you might have some explaining to do, otherwise, BMG should spend their time and effort on something productive...like putting useful, value-added content in their magazine which may cause people to subscribe or renew their subscription. With all that said, we should not make light of people that make an effort to protect intellectual property that they spent time and treasury to develop and rightfully own and should be paid for its use, if they so demand. The Chinese are intellectual thieves of the highest order and we do not want to emulate their lack of respect for patents, copyrights and confidential and propriety information. Nonetheless, there are those enamored of protecting things that they've assumed ownership of, but truly belongs in the public domain. Count me skeptical that someone controls the use of "W" as designating wood. It's not always easy to sort out which is which, and sometimes finding out you were wrong can be expensive, but seems very doubtful indeed for a list of kit plane specifications. Thanks, Chuck Jensen Diversified Technologies 2680 Westcott Blvd Knoxville, TN 37931 Phn: 865-539-9000 x25 Cell: 865-406-9001 Fax: 865-539-9001 cjensen(at)dts9000.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 2:37 PM Subject: RV-List: Kitplanes attack --> I got an email this morning from a Phil Penny at Belvoir Media Group, claiming that Kitplanes magazine owns the homebuilt plane vendor directory spreadsheet I created this fall from various sources, mainly the Internet. He claims it's theirs because I used similar codes as they did in their "pay-per-view" directory, like "wf" for wood & fabric, "m" for metal, etc. I guess he thought I should have used "Z" for metal and "QP" for wood & fabric. He also objected to the fact that my directory has data similar to theirs. Well, I hope it's similar; otherwise someone has incorrect data; a plane's wingspan, for example, is a rather fixed value. It's bad enough that these people are so cheap they even charge subscribers to view things on their web page, but this really takes the cake. Phil threatened to sue me if I don't take it down, and I told Phil it wasn't theirs or copied from theirs, and I won't be taking it down. So, now he's "referring this to our legal counsel". Apparently, there is no limit to their greed. If anyone wants a copy of it, I suggest getting it now. Also, several people have given me updated info to put into it, so if you know of any incorrect or missing data, please let me know, and I will update it with that info. I'm only on a couple lists, but if you're on other homebuilder lists, you might want to forward this URL to other lists you are on, so more people can access the directory while it's still available (just in case they are successful if getting it removed). I put a lot of work into this, as a resource that we can all keep up to date and share. It's a shame there are people and companies like this out there to harass people who are trying to do something decent for everyone. The directory is at http://brian76.mystarband.net/misc.htm#directory -- 8:22 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "noel anderson" <nandrand(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Kitplanes attack
Date: Dec 30, 2006
Hi Brian, How can Kit Plane own generic information?? I was, at one time, going sign up with them, but when I saw you had to pay for info on their site I thourght what a pack tight a....es!!!!! I'm with you on this one Brian... I do not buy thier magazine now, all the info is in many other far better publickations. (and the net) I think every body on the list, who agrees with Biran, should e-mail Kit Planes and support Brian's free, good work!!! We don't need this kind of person in our hobby or business's!!!!!!!!!!! I know some one is going to flame me for this!!!!!!!???????????? but what the h...ll. Stand up for whats right, speak up if you don't agree with something, otherwise you get rolled!!! My Kind Regards to All Happy New Year , Noel ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 8:36 AM Subject: RV-List: Kitplanes attack > > I got an email this morning from a Phil Penny at Belvoir Media Group, > claiming that Kitplanes magazine owns the homebuilt plane vendor directory > spreadsheet I created this fall from various sources, mainly the Internet. > He claims it's theirs because I used similar codes as they did in their > "pay-per-view" directory, like "wf" for wood & fabric, "m" for metal, etc. > I > guess he thought I should have used "Z" for metal and "QP" for wood & > fabric. He also objected to the fact that my directory has data similar to > theirs. Well, I hope it's similar; otherwise someone has incorrect data; a > plane's wingspan, for example, is a rather fixed value. > > It's bad enough that these people are so cheap they even charge > subscribers > to view things on their web page, but this really takes the cake. > > Phil threatened to sue me if I don't take it down, and I told Phil it > wasn't > theirs or copied from theirs, and I won't be taking it down. So, now he's > "referring this to our legal counsel". Apparently, there is no limit to > their greed. > > If anyone wants a copy of it, I suggest getting it now. Also, several > people > have given me updated info to put into it, so if you know of any incorrect > or missing data, please let me know, and I will update it with that info. > > I'm only on a couple lists, but if you're on other homebuilder lists, you > might want to forward this URL to other lists you are on, so more people > can > access the directory while it's still available (just in case they are > successful if getting it removed). > > I put a lot of work into this, as a resource that we can all keep up to > date > and share. It's a shame there are people and companies like this out there > to harass people who are trying to do something decent for everyone. > > The directory is at > > http://brian76.mystarband.net/misc.htm#directory > > > -- > 8:22 AM > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: Kitplanes attack
Date: Dec 29, 2006
I agree completely, and that was sort of my original idea, implemented in a rather hokey way with my limited time & resources. A couple people have emailed me about doing something similar to this, starting with my spreadsheet, and I hope they do it. It'll be a great resource for all of us in the homebuilt community. I had used the term "kitplanes directory" on my web site, just to save width in the "contents" frame. I've since changed it to "Homebuilt plane vendor directory", which avoids use of the "K" word and is actually more accurate. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of linn Walters Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 4:05 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Kitplanes attack I just had a thought. Instead of keeping something like a database on a personal website, why not upload it to a wikipedia site, and everybody would have the capability to both add data and to correct invalid data ...... which would make it a community effort and not subject to attack by Kitplanes. I'm not a subscriber, but this kind of action doesn't do our 'family' any good, and would be one reason I wouldn't renew. The comment about just giving in instead of fighting the situation is why most 'big guys' get their way ..... even if they're not in the right. Sad, but it's lawyers who are running this country ...... and some of them are the worst offenders!!! Linn -- 8:22 AM -- 8:22 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Kitplanes attack
Date: Dec 29, 2006
Guys, Before everyone gets too carried away try to look at this pragmatically. This obviously is a mis-understanding that has gotten WAY out of control. While Brian is a good guy, he's obviously emotionally attached to his work (that's not a bad thing). The result of this is his initial and follow on responses to inquiries was less than usefull ("up yours" gets you nowhere) in settling any confusion and probably didn't help the situation out any. My point is this....I'm not attacking Brian in anyway, nor Defending the other guys. What I am pointing out is that what probably could have been taken care of with some thoughtfull and factual emails/letters back and forth has grown beyond what it should have. Their initial request was sent via email, which is hardly a legal "served" paper complaint - they needed to be educated, but that has to happen in a polite and proper way - even if the initial complaint wasn't so nice. You always get more with honey than with vinegar. My opinion is that an initial response should have perhaps been crafted less defensively and listed more historical facts listing the past development of said data. As someone who is in the middle of a legally complex aviation "thing" right now, I've learned some VERY important lessons. #1 is that "we" as builders and business people are very emotional people and are emotionally attached to most everything we do. Lawyers on the other hand have a good talent of remaning emotionally detached from issues they are involved in - which is a very good thing when you need them on your side. You'll notice that instead of responding to the "up yours" email the guy politetly said he'd forward it to legal counsel - why? - because they can take a completely un-emotional look at it. Something that is nearly impossible for us to do personally. Anyway, I'm not defending either person. I know Brian to be a decent person so I'm fairly confident he didn't go into this trying to step on anyones toes. Conversely, I know the guys at Kitplanes (as both a builder and a business) and I can say that I also know they are very good people that truly care about homebuilders. When is the last time you saw a Cessna 140, Bonanza, 172, Restored Aeronca, or other certificated plane as their cover story? I've found EAA really starting to diverge from the "E" (experimental) part of their business - but that is their choice and marketing strategy. After working with the Kitplanes guys I can say that they are truly listening to the community and trying to craft a magazine for and about builders...not the guy who spent a gagillion $$'s restoring his Comanche (or whatever). I know executives at both magazines and while they each have their own "view of the world", I can say both are decent sets of people. Well, in closing I'm hoping cooler heads can prevail here because no good ever comes of things like this other than a lot of bad press, hurt feelings, mis-understandings and truly everyone looses. I'd urge both sides here to step back, take a few deep breaths and re-evaluate the process they are going through. I hate to see honest builders like Brian getting stepped on for something that might have been able to be avoided, as well as I hate to see the guys at Kitplanes being overly aggressive, because it's not their sole purpose or nature... Just my 2 cents as usual, and no ill will towards either party, I respect them both. Cheers, Stein. >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of noel anderson >Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 3:40 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Kitplanes attack > > >Hi Brian, > How can Kit Plane own generic information?? I was, at one time, >going sign up with them, but when I saw you had to pay for info on their >site I thourght what a pack tight a....es!!!!! I'm with you on this one >Brian... I do not buy thier magazine now, all the info is in many >other far >better publickations. (and the net) I think every body on the list, who >agrees with Biran, should e-mail Kit Planes and support Brian's free, good >work!!! We don't need this kind of person in our hobby or >business's!!!!!!!!!!! I know some one is going to flame me for >this!!!!!!!???????????? but what the h...ll. Stand up for whats right, >speak up if you don't agree with something, otherwise you get rolled!!! > > My Kind Regards to All >Happy New Year , Noel >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> >To: >Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 8:36 AM >Subject: RV-List: Kitplanes attack > > > >> >> I got an email this morning from a Phil Penny at Belvoir Media Group, >> claiming that Kitplanes magazine owns the homebuilt plane vendor >directory >> spreadsheet I created this fall from various sources, mainly the >Internet. >> He claims it's theirs because I used similar codes as they did in their >> "pay-per-view" directory, like "wf" for wood & fabric, "m" for >metal, etc. >> I >> guess he thought I should have used "Z" for metal and "QP" for wood & >> fabric. He also objected to the fact that my directory has data >similar to >> theirs. Well, I hope it's similar; otherwise someone has >incorrect data; a >> plane's wingspan, for example, is a rather fixed value. >> >> It's bad enough that these people are so cheap they even charge >> subscribers >> to view things on their web page, but this really takes the cake. >> >> Phil threatened to sue me if I don't take it down, and I told Phil it >> wasn't >> theirs or copied from theirs, and I won't be taking it down. So, now he's >> "referring this to our legal counsel". Apparently, there is no limit to >> their greed. >> >> If anyone wants a copy of it, I suggest getting it now. Also, several >> people >> have given me updated info to put into it, so if you know of any >incorrect >> or missing data, please let me know, and I will update it with that info. >> >> I'm only on a couple lists, but if you're on other homebuilder lists, you >> might want to forward this URL to other lists you are on, so more people >> can >> access the directory while it's still available (just in case they are >> successful if getting it removed). >> >> I put a lot of work into this, as a resource that we can all keep up to >> date >> and share. It's a shame there are people and companies like this >out there >> to harass people who are trying to do something decent for everyone. >> >> The directory is at >> >> http://brian76.mystarband.net/misc.htm#directory >> >> >> >> -- >> 8:22 AM >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-7 rear deck question
Date: Dec 29, 2006
Charlie, I believe the spacers you are referring to, I ah do not have the plans in front of me as I type however, do not get drilled/fitted until the horizontal stabilizer is fitted to the fuselage. What I have in mind is held with bolts. I can think of no other spacer/shim so if this does not sound right to you, please identify the part/parts/skin you are inquiring about. (I believe I just helped finish this step a month ago so it is pretty fresh in mind.) Larry in Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 8:15 AM Subject: RV-List: RV-7 rear deck question > > I'm about to rivet the rear deck to the longerons on my -7 fuselage. > The instructions don't mention whether to install the various > shims/spacers that go between the bulkheads & the rear deck. Have > y'all been placing these as you install the read deck, or waiting > until the tail goes on & sliding them in, hoping that they are aligned > correctly? > > Thanks, > > Charlie > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-7 rear deck question
Date: Dec 29, 2006
I believe that's a different spacer. I think the spacer Charlie is talking about is the one that goes atop the 710 and the 711 bulkheads, under the aft deck. I just rechecked the plans, and those CAN be riveted in now. Later in the process, as you point out , there are two other spacers that go on TOP of the aft deck and under the HS and, again as you point out, those are something left until tail mating. Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LarryRobertHelming Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 7:02 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7 rear deck question --> Charlie, I believe the spacers you are referring to, I ah do not have the plans in front of me as I type however, do not get drilled/fitted until the horizontal stabilizer is fitted to the fuselage. What I have in mind is held with bolts. I can think of no other spacer/shim so if this does not sound right to you, please identify the part/parts/skin you are inquiring about. (I believe I just helped finish this step a month ago so it is pretty fresh in mind.) Larry in Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 8:15 AM Subject: RV-List: RV-7 rear deck question > --> > > I'm about to rivet the rear deck to the longerons on my -7 fuselage. > The instructions don't mention whether to install the various > shims/spacers that go between the bulkheads & the rear deck. Have > y'all been placing these as you install the read deck, or waiting > until the tail goes on & sliding them in, hoping that they are aligned > correctly? > > Thanks, > > Charlie > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Looking for Aus. based Epenage kit for sale
From: "brantwinter" <brantwinter(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 29, 2006
Hi all - just trying my luck here, I am looking for a current RV7 un-built epenage kit for sale in Australia. Does anyone know of any unfinished RV projects for sale here ? Thanks in advance. -------- Brant Winter Potential Australian RV builder Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84372#84372 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2006
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-7 rear deck question
My apologies for being lazy; I failed to write down the #s before coming up to the house & asking the question. Bob's right, it's the spacers between the top of the 710 & 711 spacers & the 714 deck. The 710 spacer actually gets 4 rivets that end up *under* the hor stab spar (between the 2 spacers that go on top of 714), so that one really must be installed prior to the stab installation. I went ahead & riveted that one. The other is the 'T' shaped one at 711. My concern is having one shift while drilling the hor stab to the fuselage, if it's not already riveted in place. BTW, when making these parts, I failed to notice that the 7ll piece is called out as AS3-125 & the 2 small spacers that go on top of 710 are called out as AB-125. I made the 711 spacer from the 8" long AB-125 bar stock & then realized that I didn't have enough left to make the 2 small spacers. The bar stock is much harder than the 'sheet' stock. I called Van's & Ken said that it didn't matter which stock each was made of. (Wonder why they call out different materials if it doesn't matter....) Charlie Bob Collins wrote: > >I believe that's a different spacer. I think the spacer Charlie is talking >about is the one that goes atop the 710 and the 711 bulkheads, under the aft >deck. I just rechecked the plans, and those CAN be riveted in now. Later in >the process, as you point out , there are two other spacers that go on TOP >of the aft deck and under the HS and, again as you point out, those are >something left until tail mating. > >Bob > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LarryRobertHelming >Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 7:02 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7 rear deck question > >--> > >Charlie, I believe the spacers you are referring to, I ah do not have the >plans in front of me as I type however, do not get drilled/fitted until the >horizontal stabilizer is fitted to the fuselage. What I have in mind is >held with bolts. I can think of no other spacer/shim so if this does not >sound right to you, please identify the part/parts/skin you are inquiring >about. (I believe I just helped finish this step a month ago so it is >pretty fresh in mind.) Larry in Indiana >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> >To: "RV list" ; >Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 8:15 AM >Subject: RV-List: RV-7 rear deck question > > > > >>--> >> >>I'm about to rivet the rear deck to the longerons on my -7 fuselage. >>The instructions don't mention whether to install the various >>shims/spacers that go between the bulkheads & the rear deck. Have >>y'all been placing these as you install the read deck, or waiting >>until the tail goes on & sliding them in, hoping that they are aligned >>correctly? >> >>Thanks, >> >>Charlie >> >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-7 rear deck question
Date: Dec 29, 2006
Try a little superglue. Literally. It'll stay put while you're drilling it, and it'll pop right off with a little force when you want to remove it to debur it. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 6:21 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7 rear deck question > > My apologies for being lazy; I failed to write down the #s before coming > up to the house & asking the question. > > Bob's right, it's the spacers between the top of the 710 & 711 spacers & > the 714 deck. The 710 spacer actually gets 4 rivets that end up *under* > the hor stab spar (between the 2 spacers that go on top of 714), so that > one really must be installed prior to the stab installation. I went ahead > & riveted that one. The other is the 'T' shaped one at 711. > > My concern is having one shift while drilling the hor stab to the > fuselage, if it's not already riveted in place. > > BTW, when making these parts, I failed to notice that the 7ll piece is > called out as AS3-125 & the 2 small spacers that go on top of 710 are > called out as AB-125. I made the 711 spacer from the 8" long AB-125 bar > stock & then realized that I didn't have enough left to make the 2 small > spacers. The bar stock is much harder than the 'sheet' stock. I called > Van's & Ken said that it didn't matter which stock each was made of. > (Wonder why they call out different materials if it doesn't matter....) > > Charlie > > Bob Collins wrote: > >> >>I believe that's a different spacer. I think the spacer Charlie is talking >>about is the one that goes atop the 710 and the 711 bulkheads, under the >>aft >>deck. I just rechecked the plans, and those CAN be riveted in now. Later >>in >>the process, as you point out , there are two other spacers that go on TOP >>of the aft deck and under the HS and, again as you point out, those are >>something left until tail mating. >> >>Bob >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of >>LarryRobertHelming >>Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 7:02 PM >>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7 rear deck question >> >> >> >>Charlie, I believe the spacers you are referring to, I ah do not have the >>plans in front of me as I type however, do not get drilled/fitted until >>the >>horizontal stabilizer is fitted to the fuselage. What I have in mind is >>held with bolts. I can think of no other spacer/shim so if this does not >>sound right to you, please identify the part/parts/skin you are inquiring >>about. (I believe I just helped finish this step a month ago so it is >>pretty fresh in mind.) Larry in Indiana >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> >>To: "RV list" ; >>Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 8:15 AM >>Subject: RV-List: RV-7 rear deck question >> >> >> >>> >>> >>>I'm about to rivet the rear deck to the longerons on my -7 fuselage. >>>The instructions don't mention whether to install the various >>>shims/spacers that go between the bulkheads & the rear deck. Have y'all >>>been placing these as you install the read deck, or waiting until the >>>tail goes on & sliding them in, hoping that they are aligned correctly? >>> >>>Thanks, >>> >>>Charlie >>> >>> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Riveting curved skin surface
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Dec 29, 2006
We are having some difficulty riveting the curved area of the side skin where it meets the belly skin on the RV-10 tailcone. We have too many rivet heads that are sitting "proud" and will have to be drilled out. Looking for any tips or techniques. -------- David Maib Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84383#84383 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-7 rear deck question
Date: Dec 29, 2006
> My concern is having one shift while drilling the hor stab to the > fuselage, if it's not already riveted in place. > Everything under the deck is stable since they're riveted now. When you install the HS, the only thing floating around there is the two smaller spacers that go on top of the deck. Van's instructions, I think, present this as a two-step process (I think it has you drilling the HS into the deck/longeron combination and then they have you insert the little spacers and drill that. Didn't make sense to me to do it that way, nor apparently to anyone else that I've talked to who think when it's time to install the HS, put the whole shootin' match in there...superglue or duct tape or clamp and drill. But you don't need to worry 'bout that yet, Charlie. Rivet that other spacer on (the "T" spacer) and then get the aft deck put in place. BTW, when I put my aft deck on -- and I'm going from memory here -- one thing you might want to do in order to position the aft deck correctly is put the aft skin and the the 709 bulkhead on (that half-moon one) and then put the aft deck on. The reason I recommend this is the front of that aft deck is pre-punched and it's one of the parts that -- I think - prepunched doesn't help that much and could hurt. Doing it this way ensures that the aft deck will be centered perfectly on the longerons, the aft deck will be aligned perfectly with the the 709 and the 709 will be aligned perfectly with the aft skin, which will -- of course, be aligned perfectly with the side skins and longeron. Everybody's happy. Don't be stupid like me. I put the aft deck on there and didn't center it that well, then clecoed the 709 on and drilled. The aft deck was, in fact, slightly aligned to the right side and while the edge distance on the left longeron was accepta ble (barely), the 709 didn't fit the aft skin as well as I would've liked. I ended up taking the 709, riveting a doubler over the holes and redrilling to make it fit better with the aft skin. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 29, 2006
Subject: On Making Choices
Those of you who have seen the report of the crash of a Bonanza near Lancaster on Wednesday 12/27/06 may be amused to know that I talked briefly with the Pilot of said aircraft just as I arrived at KWJF from Henderson, NV and (wisely it turns out) decided to park it for the night, just as he described how he intended to depart for Chico. I'm not his mother, so I said, basically, "good luck with that". Perhaps I should have said more, but we will never know if I could have been more persuasive in my comments. The area was developing some pretty aggressive gusts (wind shear) and I was becoming surrounded on three sides by some pretty good sized little cells when I arrived in Lancaster. They told me that I was going no further that day. I lifted off the next morning to the sight of snow on the Tehachapis and ended up getting back to LVK the next morning in rather strong (but steady) headwinds and clear skies. I hope everyone had a good and safe Christmas and I wish you all the best in the new year. Pay attention to your instincts, keep the tanks full and you will live to be an old (not bold) pilot. RVs sure do handle the winds well and I never once had any difficulty flying in California during the days that trees and power line towers were falling. Ground speeds were down from my usual 164kts to about 124kts, and the landing required a little more attention to detail though. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 830hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Subject: RV-7 rear deck question
Date: Dec 30, 2006
I fit and riveted the spacers with the rear deck at that time. ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 9:15 AM Subject: RV-List: RV-7 rear deck question I'm about to rivet the rear deck to the longerons on my -7 fuselage. The instructions don't mention whether to install the various shims/spacers that go between the bulkheads & the rear deck. Have y'all been placing these as you install the read deck, or waiting until the tail goes on & sliding them in, hoping that they are aligned correctly? Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
Subject: cylinder baffles
Date: Dec 29, 2006
I use an 1/8 or 3/16 inch cotter pin through each hole facing away from the safety wire run through a hole the lower baffle flanges and a backup #8 steel washer. Bend the cotter pin legs out so they lay along the flange then run the safety wire through the eyelet now made from the round end of the cotter pin. I use 6 inches of -2 aeroquip hose as a chafe guard around the return tubes and two full laps of .041 safety wire fed through the hose and then throughly twisted that runs most of the way, then one small double loop to attach the other end and pull it tight. I also glue on some 1/16 inch rubber sheet to the parts that lay against the steel fins to prevent chafing cuts in the baffle. W ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 2006
From: Chris W <3edcft6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Kitplanes attack
Brian Meyette wrote: > > I got an email this morning from a Phil Penny at Belvoir Media Group, > claiming that Kitplanes magazine owns the homebuilt plane vendor directory > spreadsheet I created this fall from various sources, mainly the Internet. > He claims it's theirs because I used similar codes as they did in their > "pay-per-view" directory, like "wf" for wood & fabric, "m" for metal, etc. Stuff like this really gets on my nerves. I think it is always good to remind everyone that copyright and patent laws were written to promote the free exchange of ideas, not to give someone exclusive eternal rights to something. In this case I don't see how they can claim rights to the data. I would change your logical abbreviations to symbols or maybe graphics and then see what their complaint is. Another idea is to make it user maintained. So an automated site would let users submit corrections to the data. That way you can say the data is entered by any number of people and can't possibly be theirs. I would be glad to help build the pages need to do this if you like. I have a possible solution though. If the fight with their lawyers becomes more than it is worth, just have someone else put it up on their web site. When they find out about it just move it again. I'm sure there are several people here that have web sites up. I have a few web sites I would be glad to post it on. Though none of them are aviation related, I would even be willing to make an aviation related site just for this. Of course I would eventually end up having other things there too. -- Chris W KE5GIX "Protect your digital freedom and privacy, eliminate DRM, learn more at http://www.defectivebydesign.org/what_is_drm" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: Riveting curved skin surface
Date: Dec 30, 2006
David, when possible, rivet using the back rivet tool rather than the flush tool. I know you cannot back rivet them all however. The key to a perfect rivet is to hold the rivet gun head on the rivet perfectly square and have the bucker who is on the other side maintain just enough pressure to keep the bucking bar on the shop side of the rivet so the rivet is not pushed out while bucking. When back riveting the bucker must keep the bar perfectly square to the rivet with sufficient pressure to not get pushed out of the hole by the riveter. Do not be afraid of drilling out bad rivets if they truly deserve it, but consider using a rivet shaver or small file or roto sander to gently remove the high spots. You will want the high spots and high edges eliminated when you go to painting and wet sanding if you expect a good even paint job. Are you sure you have properly dimpled the problem areas? Also, when riveting to be sure the rivet will sit down fully in the hole before putting the gun to it. If not, use a gently turn or three with a countersinking tool over the dimpled hole. Best wishes, Larry in Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: <dmaib(at)mac.com> Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 8:45 PM Subject: RV-List: Riveting curved skin surface > > We are having some difficulty riveting the curved area of the side skin > where it meets the belly skin on the RV-10 tailcone. We have too many > rivet heads that are sitting "proud" and will have to be drilled out. > Looking for any tips or techniques. > > -------- > David Maib > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84383#84383 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Kitplanes attack
Date: Dec 30, 2006
I have been talking with Brian and have decided to build a community web site to house the database.....so all the content can be community owned and managed... I have my own web server so its no biggy for me... I also have a programmer who can do the job for me... I will also add some other features like forums, blogs, builder pages and logs, photo and video galleries, downloads and etc.....also all community owned and managed... We'll make it community owned and all the data will be posted by the community.....and the site will be free of course... It will take me a bit to get this going, but I will keep you posted... -Bill www.rv8a.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris W" <3edcft6(at)cox.net> Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 12:32 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Kitplanes attack Brian Meyette wrote: > > I got an email this morning from a Phil Penny at Belvoir Media Group, > claiming that Kitplanes magazine owns the homebuilt plane vendor directory > spreadsheet I created this fall from various sources, mainly the Internet. > He claims it's theirs because I used similar codes as they did in their > "pay-per-view" directory, like "wf" for wood & fabric, "m" for metal, etc. Stuff like this really gets on my nerves. I think it is always good to remind everyone that copyright and patent laws were written to promote the free exchange of ideas, not to give someone exclusive eternal rights to something. In this case I don't see how they can claim rights to the data. I would change your logical abbreviations to symbols or maybe graphics and then see what their complaint is. Another idea is to make it user maintained. So an automated site would let users submit corrections to the data. That way you can say the data is entered by any number of people and can't possibly be theirs. I would be glad to help build the pages need to do this if you like. I have a possible solution though. If the fight with their lawyers becomes more than it is worth, just have someone else put it up on their web site. When they find out about it just move it again. I'm sure there are several people here that have web sites up. I have a few web sites I would be glad to post it on. Though none of them are aviation related, I would even be willing to make an aviation related site just for this. Of course I would eventually end up having other things there too. -- Chris W KE5GIX "Protect your digital freedom and privacy, eliminate DRM, learn more at http://www.defectivebydesign.org/what_is_drm" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil" <neilmcleod(at)wildblue.net>
Subject: Fuel Injection Line Run
Date: Dec 30, 2006
I ran mine that way and put a heat shield on the exhaust and some extra vinyl tubing on the fuel line for additional anti-chafe. It's a tight fit but no problems so far. No pictures handy right now. Neil -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Emrath Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 3:31 PM Subject: RV-List: Fuel Injection Line Run I've a question for anyone who has done this. I have a Bendix Fuel Injection system installed in my RV-6A, with the servo mounted vertically where one normally has a carb. I'm in the process of running the fuel line from the servo to the distribution spider. I've seen installations that run this line right in front of the sump, to a hole in the inter-cylinder baffling and up to the spider. Using Vetterman's cross over pipes, I've about 7/8" clearance between the pipes and the sump. Has anyone done this and could they share pictures of their installation. Thanks for your help. Marty ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: Re: Riveting curved skin surface
Date: Dec 30, 2006
You need to use a smaller set on your rivet gun. Make sure you practice with it because if you let it move around, you will have a dent in the skin. Mike Harris ----- Original Message ----- From: <dmaib(at)mac.com> Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 8:45 PM Subject: RV-List: Riveting curved skin surface > > We are having some difficulty riveting the curved area of the side skin where it meets the belly skin on the RV-10 tailcone. We have too many rivet heads that are sitting "proud" and will have to be drilled out. Looking for any tips or techniques. > > -------- > David Maib > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84383#84383 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 2006
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitplanes attack
What a bunch of losers...this is virtual space...don't respond to an email, don't engage with them, etc. They would have to subpeona your ISP to get your contact information just to send you a certified letter. I got an email this morning from a Phil Penny at Belvoir Media Group, claiming that Kitplanes magazine owns the homebuilt plane vendor directory spreadsheet I created this fall from various sources, mainly the Internet. He claims it's theirs because I used similar codes as they did in their "pay-per-view" directory, like "wf" for wood & fabric, "m" for metal, etc. I guess he thought I should have used "Z" for metal and "QP" for wood & fabric. He also objected to the fact that my directory has data similar to theirs. Well, I hope it's similar; otherwise someone has incorrect data; a plane's wingspan, for example, is a rather fixed value. It's bad enough that these people are so cheap they even charge subscribers to view things on their web page, but this really takes the cake. Phil threatened to sue me if I don't take it down, and I told Phil it wasn't theirs or copied from theirs, and I won't be taking it down. So, now he's "referring this to our legal counsel". Apparently, there is no limit to their greed. If anyone wants a copy of it, I suggest getting it now. Also, several people have given me updated info to put into it, so if you know of any incorrect or missing data, please let me know, and I will update it with that info. I'm only on a couple lists, but if you're on other homebuilder lists, you might want to forward this URL to other lists you are on, so more people can access the directory while it's still available (just in case they are successful if getting it removed). I put a lot of work into this, as a resource that we can all keep up to date and share. It's a shame there are people and companies like this out there to harass people who are trying to do something decent for everyone. The directory is at http://brian76.mystarband.net/misc.htm#directory -- 8:22 AM __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BillRVSIX(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 30, 2006
Subject: Vacuum pump fittings
Hello I am having trouble with the vacuum pump fittings, on the pump its self and on the instruments. I have sprayed them with silicone spray like the directions say. They say not to use Teflon tape or any liquid form stuff. But when I install the fittings with the silicon and just snug it up I can't get the fittings off without destroying the fittings I Evan had one snap off when I tried to back it out and I only snuged it up a minute before. Any one have any idea what I am doing wrong. I am using the Rapco vacuum pump Kit. Thanks Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Roll Servo Installation
Date: Dec 30, 2006
I am in the process of installing the Trio Avionics Autopilot Roll Servo in my RV-9. My intentions are to install it in the right wing adjacent to the aileron bell crank. I would like to see photos or links to photos showing how this instillation was accomplished. You can email me direct at bobperk(at)bellsouth.net all help and ideas will be appreciated Bob Perkinson Hendersonville, TN. RV9 N658RP Reserved If nothing changes Nothing changes ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 2006
Subject: Vacuum pump fittings
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Bill, What is a vacuum pump? Isn't that 50's technology? A mechanical item that is looking to fail at the most inopportune time? Electric Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: RV-13 ??
Date: Dec 30, 2006
Naw, it's fiberglass and jet powered. www.jet-man.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 2006
From: "Greg Papendick" <gandjpappy(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Riveting curved skin surface
Larry, Do you know if it is possible/acceptable to back rivet the turtle deck or would it be better to rivet the conventional way? I am going to be ordering the fastback for my QB RV8 fuselage and since I did not rivet the original deck I thought I would ask how it is normally done. Thanks, Greg LarryRobertHelming wrote on 12/30/2006, 8:11 AM: > > > David, when possible, rivet using the back rivet tool rather than the > flush > tool. I know you cannot back rivet them all however. > > The key to a perfect rivet is to hold the rivet gun head on the rivet > perfectly square and have the bucker who is on the other side maintain > just > enough pressure to keep the bucking bar on the shop side of the rivet > so the > rivet is not pushed out while bucking. When back riveting the bucker > must > keep the bar perfectly square to the rivet with sufficient pressure to > not > get pushed out of the hole by the riveter. Do not be afraid of > drilling out > bad rivets if they truly deserve it, but consider using a rivet shaver or > small file or roto sander to gently remove the high spots. You will want > the high spots and high edges eliminated when you go to painting and wet > sanding if you expect a good even paint job. Are you sure you have > properly > dimpled the problem areas? Also, when riveting to be sure the rivet will > sit down fully in the hole before putting the gun to it. If not, use a > gently turn or three with a countersinking tool over the dimpled hole. > > Best wishes, Larry in Indiana > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <dmaib(at)mac.com> > To: > Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 8:45 PM > Subject: RV-List: Riveting curved skin surface > > > > > > We are having some difficulty riveting the curved area of the side skin > > where it meets the belly skin on the RV-10 tailcone. We have too many > > rivet heads that are sitting "proud" and will have to be drilled out. > > Looking for any tips or techniques. > > > > -------- > > David Maib > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84383#84383 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 2006
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Kitplanes attack
On 10:25 2006-12-30 Paul Besing wrote: > What a bunch of losers...this is virtual space...don't respond to an > email, don't engage with them, etc. They would have to subpeona your > ISP to get your contact information just to send you a certified > letter. No, it's much easier than that. All they have to do is send an official sounding letter to your ISP, and the ISP will pull your website in fear of being the target of litigation. Don't laugh, it's been done to many websites that post information that is contrary or dissenting to a majority (or a corporate) opinion. Most large national ISP's don't want the hassle, so they err on the side of caution and direct their customer to pull the content. Some smaller ISP's are willing to look at each case as it comes in, and take the time to make a determination whether there's any copyright infringement, slander, libel, etc. that needs to be removed. If not, they'll fight. Maybe all that's necessary is to have a talk with your ISP and see whether they will back you up. -Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: Riveting curved skin surface
Date: Dec 30, 2006
It is acceptable to back rivet the turtle deck. The key to doing it successfully is being able to get to the shop side of the rivets pretty much square on. I have two back rivet tools. One has a black spring thingy on it that helps keep the head on the rivet. The other is a longer tool that is all steel and has a slight bend in one end. I got both from Avery tools. With a bit of effort I could get you a part number is you think you need it. The longer tool is primarily designed for back riveting the top of the wings. You should have no trouble being able to use the one with the spring in it for the turtle deck. The advantage to back riveting is it helps prevent slight indentations on the out side. When you drive the gun from the outside, you are pushing in and if a slight gap is between the skin and the bulkhead you will bet the slight indentation. Applying the power of the blow from the inside out helps push the flange on the bulkhead to the skin to get it flush. Better finish will be accomplished with careful bending of the bulkhead flanges to get them perfectly angled to fit the angle of the finished skin before you drill and rivet. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more info. Glad to help. Larry in Indiana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Papendick" <gandjpappy(at)aol.com> Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 2:10 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Riveting curved skin surface > > Larry, > > Do you know if it is possible/acceptable to back rivet the turtle deck > or would it be better to rivet the conventional way? I am going to be > ordering the fastback for my QB RV8 fuselage and since I did not rivet > the original deck I thought I would ask how it is normally done. > > Thanks, > Greg > > LarryRobertHelming wrote on 12/30/2006, 8:11 AM: > > > > > > > David, when possible, rivet using the back rivet tool rather than the > > flush > > tool. I know you cannot back rivet them all however. > > > > The key to a perfect rivet is to hold the rivet gun head on the rivet > > perfectly square and have the bucker who is on the other side maintain > > just > > enough pressure to keep the bucking bar on the shop side of the rivet > > so the > > rivet is not pushed out while bucking. When back riveting the bucker > > must > > keep the bar perfectly square to the rivet with sufficient pressure to > > not > > get pushed out of the hole by the riveter. Do not be afraid of > > drilling out > > bad rivets if they truly deserve it, but consider using a rivet shaver > > or > > small file or roto sander to gently remove the high spots. You will > > want > > the high spots and high edges eliminated when you go to painting and wet > > sanding if you expect a good even paint job. Are you sure you have > > properly > > dimpled the problem areas? Also, when riveting to be sure the rivet > > will > > sit down fully in the hole before putting the gun to it. If not, use a > > gently turn or three with a countersinking tool over the dimpled hole. > > > > Best wishes, Larry in Indiana > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: <dmaib(at)mac.com> > > To: > > Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 8:45 PM > > Subject: RV-List: Riveting curved skin surface > > > > > > > > > > We are having some difficulty riveting the curved area of the side > > > skin > > > where it meets the belly skin on the RV-10 tailcone. We have too many > > > rivet heads that are sitting "proud" and will have to be drilled out. > > > Looking for any tips or techniques. > > > > > > -------- > > > David Maib > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84383#84383 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 30, 2006
Subject: Re: Firewall Bend
Thanks to all for your input. The reason I am doing it now is that in the prepunch instructions, it comes along on the second page. Makes sense to do it before dimpling the firewall or riveting anything to it. Someone suggested that my backing board probably bent away. I think that is correct. I fixed the issue by clamping boards on both sides (fore and aft) of the bend line. I then faced it down (Vans instructions had you bending up) and went across the bend line with a wood block and a rubber hammer. It is not completely sharp all the way across, but definitely acceptable. I did not want to work harden the firewall by being over-compulsive. If I were to do it again, I would use the two board technique and maybe even use something like a wallpaper roller to make an consistent and straight bend. Regards, Michael Wynn RV 8 (Prepunch) Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: SNF Changes
Date: Dec 30, 2006
Listers, lest some of you become afraid to come to OSH, i offer the following:, I have attened every flyin for the last 25 years and yes if you park up in front at Air Show Special, you will experience the horror stories expressed. For the last many years, I have declined parking up in front at Air Show special on the flight line and parked in the back on the west side of the airfield specially designated for RVs Since it is inconvenient for the local gawkers to go their, you will see virually no problems in this area (other than talking other RV enthusiasts). I hope to see all of you at OSH this next summer with your airplanes. Dick Martin RV8 N233M the fast one ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 6:10 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: SNF Changes > > > gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net wrote: >> having worked for many a year now at Oshkosh i can attest to the horror >> stories, i have seen the wing as diaper change areas, i have seen folks >> poking in fabric covered wings and caught folks stuffing coke cans in >> exhausts, folding chairs stacked 4 deep against the fiberglass bodies, > > > I say this only HALF in jest. Ban strollers. I hate strollers. Folks are > pushing strollers, looking up and BANG...right into my ankles. > > Seriously, I too have seen the crowds along the flightline. I don't think > I'd park there. Plus the atmosphere in the South 40 is wayyyyyyyy too cool > to ever want to leave. > > -------- > Bob Collins > St. Paul, Minn. > RV Builder's Hotline (free!) > http://rvhotline.expercraft.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84074#84074 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: SNF Changes
Date: Dec 30, 2006
Oops, I did not see the reference to SNF. Enjoy your trip to OSH. Dick Martin RV8 N233M the fast one ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 6:10 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: SNF Changes > > > gert.v(at)sbcglobal.net wrote: >> having worked for many a year now at Oshkosh i can attest to the horror >> stories, i have seen the wing as diaper change areas, i have seen folks >> poking in fabric covered wings and caught folks stuffing coke cans in >> exhausts, folding chairs stacked 4 deep against the fiberglass bodies, > > > I say this only HALF in jest. Ban strollers. I hate strollers. Folks are > pushing strollers, looking up and BANG...right into my ankles. > > Seriously, I too have seen the crowds along the flightline. I don't think > I'd park there. Plus the atmosphere in the South 40 is wayyyyyyyy too cool > to ever want to leave. > > -------- > Bob Collins > St. Paul, Minn. > RV Builder's Hotline (free!) > http://rvhotline.expercraft.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84074#84074 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 30, 2006
From: "Greg Papendick" <gandjpappy(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Riveting curved skin surface
Larry, Thanks for the advice. I have a back riveting tool that has a spring loaded cage that surrounds the shop head, sounds similar to what you have. I had hoped others had back riveted the turtle deck sucessfully as I have limited help and putting someone inside with the bucking bar might be more than I could hope for. I have help that would do fine outside. Regards, Greg LarryRobertHelming wrote on 12/30/2006, 6:23 PM: > > > It is acceptable to back rivet the turtle deck. The key to doing it > successfully is being able to get to the shop side of the rivets > pretty much > square on. I have two back rivet tools. One has a black spring > thingy on > it that helps keep the head on the rivet. The other is a longer tool > that > is all steel and has a slight bend in one end. I got both from Avery > tools. > With a bit of effort I could get you a part number is you think you > need it. > The longer tool is primarily designed for back riveting the top of the > wings. > > You should have no trouble being able to use the one with the spring > in it > for the turtle deck. The advantage to back riveting is it helps prevent > slight indentations on the out side. When you drive the gun from the > outside, you are pushing in and if a slight gap is between the skin > and the > bulkhead you will bet the slight indentation. Applying the power of the > blow from the inside out helps push the flange on the bulkhead to the > skin > to get it flush. Better finish will be accomplished with careful > bending of > the bulkhead flanges to get them perfectly angled to fit the angle of the > finished skin before you drill and rivet. > > Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more info. Glad to help. > > Larry in Indiana > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Greg Papendick" <gandjpappy(at)aol.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 2:10 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: Riveting curved skin surface > > > > > > Larry, > > > > Do you know if it is possible/acceptable to back rivet the turtle deck > > or would it be better to rivet the conventional way? I am going to be > > ordering the fastback for my QB RV8 fuselage and since I did not rivet > > the original deck I thought I would ask how it is normally done. > > > > Thanks, > > Greg > > > > LarryRobertHelming wrote on 12/30/2006, 8:11 AM: > > > > > > > > > > > David, when possible, rivet using the back rivet tool rather than the > > > flush > > > tool. I know you cannot back rivet them all however. > > > > > > The key to a perfect rivet is to hold the rivet gun head on the rivet > > > perfectly square and have the bucker who is on the other side > maintain > > > just > > > enough pressure to keep the bucking bar on the shop side of the rivet > > > so the > > > rivet is not pushed out while bucking. When back riveting the bucker > > > must > > > keep the bar perfectly square to the rivet with sufficient > pressure to > > > not > > > get pushed out of the hole by the riveter. Do not be afraid of > > > drilling out > > > bad rivets if they truly deserve it, but consider using a rivet > shaver > > > or > > > small file or roto sander to gently remove the high spots. You will > > > want > > > the high spots and high edges eliminated when you go to painting > and wet > > > sanding if you expect a good even paint job. Are you sure you have > > > properly > > > dimpled the problem areas? Also, when riveting to be sure the rivet > > > will > > > sit down fully in the hole before putting the gun to it. If not, > use a > > > gently turn or three with a countersinking tool over the dimpled > hole. > > > > > > Best wishes, Larry in Indiana > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: <dmaib(at)mac.com> > > > To: > > > Sent: Friday, December 29, 2006 8:45 PM > > > Subject: RV-List: Riveting curved skin surface > > > > > > > > > > > > > > We are having some difficulty riveting the curved area of the side > > > > skin > > > > where it meets the belly skin on the RV-10 tailcone. We have too > many > > > > rivet heads that are sitting "proud" and will have to be drilled > out. > > > > Looking for any tips or techniques. > > > > > > > > -------- > > > > David Maib > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=84383#84383 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 30, 2006
Subject: Re: Vacuum pump fittings
In a message dated 12/30/2006 11:18:39 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, rv9jim(at)juno.com writes: What is a vacuum pump? Isn't that 50's technology? A mechanical item that is looking to fail at the most inopportune time? And with my vacuum pump still working at 830 hrs, while the attitude gyro needs it's second set of bearings.


December 12, 2006 - December 30, 2006

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