RV-Archive.digest.vol-sq
March 02, 2007 - March 26, 2007
and Ill see what I can do to help you out.
Im leaving early Sunday morning for New England (CT).
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N925RV 2008 hrs (sold)
RV-6A N926RV 720 hrs
RV-7A N924RV (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Splitters for Sale |
Listers,
I have two different splitters that I do not need and would like to
sell. They are:
1. DIM Antenna Technologies Type DM H22-1 Diplexer. From the Chief
Aircraft catalog: "Single VOR and single GS. Will permit operation of
one NAV and one glide slope receiver from one VOR antenna. VSWR 1.5:1.
Weight 0.25 lbs." Has one BNC input and two BNC outputs. $45.00
2. Comant Industries CI 5120 Dual VOR/GS Splitter. Distributes input
from one VOR/LOC/GS antenna to two VOR/LOC/GS receivers. BNC input and
outputs. $30.00
I'll pay the shipping.
Richard Dudley
RV-6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glass for IFR |
On 3/2/07, linn Walters wrote:
>
> Bob J. wrote:
>
> The best approach is to use a wet vacuum pump and a separator. I know of
> many wet vaccum pumps that outlived the engines they were installed in.
>
> They're heavier, and the separator isn't that efficient. That's why the
> dry pump is standard on most 'newer' engines.
>
So what if they're heavier. They last forever! We're talking a pound or
two difference. The reason why dry pumps became fashionable was because
someone thought it would be a clever way to cut costs in certificated
aircraft production.
> I don't know of a single dry pump that I've ever seen that didn't fail
> in the shear coupler. I've never seen on where the vanes wore out.
>
> Well, that's why the pump fails. The vanes are plasticized carbon, and
> the centripetal force keeps the vanes in contact with the pumps outer wall,
> which causes them to wear down slowly. The vanes are the sacrificial
> parts. When the vanes get thin ..... about 1/4" wide or so, they jam in the
> ports and the shear coupling fails.
>
I don't see how a vane can jam into a port. I've taken dry pumps apart and
the ports are only a 1/4" or so in diameter. When they fail due to vane
wear what will happen is that they will fall out of the stator in the open
area ahead of the port, then will jam between the body of the pump and the
next vane that comes along.
I can show you a box of about a half dozen cores we have on our airport of
dry pumps, all of them have vanes in excellent shape. The vanes will
outlast the shear coupler. Ask any A&P that has replaced many of these and
I will bet you a beer you will get the same answer. In every single one
I've seen the drive coupling failed. Why? To use your analogy of the fuse,
imagine a 5A fuse on a 10A circuit. Now lets analyze the design of a dry
pump. Lets say the shear coupling is more rigid, perhaps 50% stronger. Now
lets say a vane fails, what happens? The pump will grind itself internally
to death, and if it causes a seizure of the pump, then a stronger shear
coupler will fail. As long as the bits an pieces can't get into the engine,
or the instruments, there's no problem. Which normally they can't unless
the dry pump is used to inflate deice boots. In those installations however
they have screens to prevent junk from getting in the boots (Piper Aerostar
comes to mind.)
Wet pumps such as the Garwins have a thinned down section of the drive shaft
to act as a shear coupler if the pump seized. In dry pumps the shear
couplers are plastic, it doesn't take much torque to make them fail.
> If the dry pumps didn't have the silly shear coupler they would be far
> more reliable.
>
> Can't agree with that! That's like replacing a fuse with a piece of
> metal. If the shear coupling didn't fail when the pump jammed ..... some
> other, weaker, link in the food chain would have to ...... maybe internal to
> the engine. Who knows??? I sure wouldn't want to find out!
>
The weak link would then be the carbon stator and the vanes, and if they
fail there should not be any cascading effect other than no vacuum
pressure. I believe the shear couplers fail from being subject constant
pounding of the engine power pulses.
FYI ..... I had a dry pump last more than 2000 hours on an O-235 ...... and
> yes, it failed as I was climbing out through the soup. Sigh.
> Linn
>
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: ANR Headsets |
On 9:26 2007-03-02 "Neal George" wrote:
> Are there any audiologists among us who would care to comment on the
> relative quality of protection offered by the traditional cup-style
> vs. in-ear headsets?
I'm not an audiologist, but I did stay in a holiday inn expresss...
Just kidding. I have a pair of the in-ear silicone earplugs, that I had
made to wear while riding my motorcycle. I tried them out in flight, and
found that the combination of the silicone plugs, and my David Clark
10-13.4 headset, almost matched the comfort and audio level of my
Lightspeed 20XL. I've also worn the earplugs on an airline flight between
North America and China, and was happy with the performance there as well.
The earplugs were made by Custom Protect Ear (http://www.protectear.com)
and are the "Convertible Vented" model. They are vented to prevent ear
damage with altitude changes.
All that being said, I think my next headset purchase will be a pair of
Bose Quiet Comfort headphones, plus the aviation mod kit
(http://www.uflymike.com/) to add a boom microphone. The Quiet Comfort
headset is reportedly as good as the X headset in noise cancellation, at
1/3 the price point. I wish I knew someone with this setup so I could give
it a try first, though.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
Many people are starting to realize the problems associated with the plastic
couplings and are replacing it every two years. The guys who are doing this
are getting a lot of trouble free time from the dry pumps. The problem seems
to be the life of the coupling is getting pushed too far The vanes are
designed to go a long time, and in industrial applications, they do, unless
they ingest something like foam from an aged out filter. . Maybe a $11
coupling every couple of years or so, along with a new garter filter, may
save a lot of grief and money..
Just an opinion,
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Comparing Bose X headset to the QCII, was ANR Headseats |
I have both the Quiet Comfort II headphones and the X aviation headset. I
have not used the aviation set in an airplane yet (RV7A soon to fly) but have
tried the QCs once, while flying, to listen to MP3s. That was not very
satisfying as the noise in my Grumman almost drowned out the music.
After reading your post Rob, I turned on some thumpy dance music in my
living room and ran a non scientific comparison between the two. In my subjective
opinion, I would say that the X set noise reduction, approaches twice the
effectiveness as the QC in both passive and active modes.
Some other factors to consider:
The X is more comfortable, although it will be hotter on warm days.
The X is much more robust in construction and has much heavier cables and
connectors.
I initially had power switch problems with the QC. It's a cheap slide
switch.
The X is stereo/mono selectable.
The X has individual L/R volume controls.
The mic position on the X can be reversed.
The X has auto shut off.
The X has 2 AA batteries as opposed to 1 AAA for the QC.
I don't remember the length of the warrantee on the QCs but that could be a
factor.
There's a 5 yr warrantee on the X set.
I bought my X set used, but within the warrantee period. One of the metal
headband yokes was broken. Bose rebuilt the head band with two new metal
yokes and included new head and ear cushions, all at no charge including return
shipping.
With all that said, I still don't know why they are THAT expensive.
Anyway, I reported, you decide.
Bob Trumpfheller
mesawood.com
In a message dated 3/2/2007 11:39:57 A.M. Mountain Standard Time, rv7(at)b4.ca
writes:
All that being said, I think my next headset purchase will be a pair of
Bose Quiet Comfort headphones, plus the aviation mod kit
(http://www.uflymike.com/) to add a boom microphone. The Quiet Comfort
headset is reportedly as good as the X headset in noise cancellation, at
1/3 the price point. I wish I knew someone with this setup so I could give
it a try first, though.
-Rob
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Cordner" <davcor(at)comcast.net> |
Regarding quiet comfort (non aviation) Bose headsets. I recently had a
problem with a QC1 set of headsets, called Bose to arrange repair.
Bad news, they could not/ would not repair.
Good news for $100 they sent me a pair of the QC2 headsets. I had to send
the QC1's to their depot for evaluation and received the new set in less
than 10 days.
I travel a lot for business (as passenger) I will NEVER go on another trip
with out the QC headsets. Most recent long trip, Denver - LA, Singapore,
Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Tokyo, Seattle - (replaced battery) back to Denver.
Nearly 40 hours on one AAA
Arrive at your destination feeling better, and travel more comfortably.
Bose did not ask for original receipts, so......
Get aviation ANR headsets too, you'll be glad you did. There are sources for
upgrade kits to take passive to ANR. Use Google to find, very easy to do.
Dave Cordner
RV-7 N898DC (rsvd)
Fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob Prior
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: ANR Headsets
On 9:26 2007-03-02 "Neal George" wrote:
> Are there any audiologists among us who would care to comment on the
> relative quality of protection offered by the traditional cup-style
> vs. in-ear headsets?
I'm not an audiologist, but I did stay in a holiday inn expresss...
Just kidding. I have a pair of the in-ear silicone earplugs, that I had
made to wear while riding my motorcycle. I tried them out in flight, and
found that the combination of the silicone plugs, and my David Clark
10-13.4 headset, almost matched the comfort and audio level of my
Lightspeed 20XL. I've also worn the earplugs on an airline flight between
North America and China, and was happy with the performance there as well.
The earplugs were made by Custom Protect Ear (http://www.protectear.com)
and are the "Convertible Vented" model. They are vented to prevent ear
damage with altitude changes.
All that being said, I think my next headset purchase will be a pair of
Bose Quiet Comfort headphones, plus the aviation mod kit
(http://www.uflymike.com/) to add a boom microphone. The Quiet Comfort
headset is reportedly as good as the X headset in noise cancellation, at
1/3 the price point. I wish I knew someone with this setup so I could give
it a try first, though.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cory Emberson <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Comparing Bose X headset to the QCII, was ANR Headseats |
Hi all,
If it's any help, the Kitplanes website (www.kitplanes.com) has three of my four headset review articles as free content on their website. The in-the-ear feature isn't in the free content section just yet, but it appeared in the Feb 07 issue. There may be some info in there that may be helpful. Each article has a feature comparison chart, including prices at the time it went to press, and contact info.
I loved the Bose X and bought a set for myself. I also use it when doing tricky
audio transcription- the sophisticated audio electronics does wonders for so-so
audio.
Of the in-the-ear headsets, I liked the Clarity Aloft a lot, and found the Quiet
Technologies Halo to work well, too. The LS Mach 1 was cool, but tookme some
time to get used to it.
This has been a great thread.
best,
CoryEmberson
Contributing Editor
Kitplanes Magazine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronlee(at)pcisys.net |
> Many people are starting to realize the problems associated with the
plastic couplings and are replacing it every two years.
Not a bad idea if it is really the coupling that fails. In my
case I saw the innards broken. That likely led to the coupling shearing
as opposed to the other way.
I will have to examine the Rapco 215cc I get to see if it is easy to
replace the coupling.
Ron
Lee
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using Endymion MailMan.
http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Spruce" <info(at)aircraftspruce.com> |
We noticed a posting recently regarding Aircraft Spruce and Tru Trak
indicators, and wanted to reply to the readers. Tru Trak sends these
turn and bank indicators to us bulk packaged 4 in a box, and we have to
repackage them as individual units. This is why the packaging did not
look like "Tru Tak" packaging. Our customer service department exchanged
the first unit for another one, and of course the second one looked just
the same; they should have checked first and would have found that we
get them bulk packed from the manufacturer. Both units were of course
new, not used, and our customer is satisfied with the unit. Please let
us know if you ever have any questions or concerns.
Aircraft Spruce Customer Service
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
Does anyone know if the cowl plugs that vans sells will work for an -8
too? It doesn't say anything on the site about the -8... Does anyone
have these and have any feedback?
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?&browse=airframe&produc
t=cowl_plugs
-Bill
www.rv8a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net> |
RV-7/8 - fits RV-6/7/8/9 airplane cowls without scoop
Part Number = COWL PLUG HORIZ
Price = $59.95
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Bill VonDane wrote:
> Does anyone know if the cowl plugs that vans sells will work for an -8
> too? It doesn't say anything on the site about the -8... Does anyone
> have these and have any feedback?
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?&browse=airframe&product=cowl_plugs
> <http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?&browse=airframe&product=cowl_plugs>
>
> -Bill
> www.rv8a.com <http://www.rv8a.com>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
On 3/2/07, Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Does anyone know if the cowl plugs that vans sells will work for an -8
> too? It doesn't say anything on the site about the -8... Does anyone
> have these and have any feedback?
>
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?&browse=airframe&product=cowl_plugs
>
> -Bill
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
Bill, you are having a senior moment.. :-) It says 6/7/8/9 right in the
item description...
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
My websites at:
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
On 3/2/07, Bill VonDane wrote:
>
> Does anyone know if the cowl plugs that vans sells will work for an -8
> too? It doesn't say anything on the site about the -8... Does anyone
> have these and have any feedback?
>
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?&browse=airframe&product=cowl_plugs
>
> -Bill
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
Bill, you are having a senior moment.. :-) It says 6/7/8/9 right in the
item description...
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
My websites at:
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com> |
For sale: 2004 RV-6A w/Sliding Canopy SN: 23143
Location: KMJD
TTAF/TSMO: 250 hrs. That will vary as I fly often.
Engine: Conical mount 160hp O-320 A1A Narrow deck with carb, mags and chrome
cyls
All parts were new or yellow tagged. All ADs complied with. Have paperwork
Spin on oil filter.
35 amp alt
Compact starter
Cabin heat
80 pitch Sensenich metal propeller.
KLX-135A com /gps
KT-76A transponder
AmeriKing - AK-350 - Altitude Encoder and ELT,
Standard 6-pack configuration,
Vertical card compass
Voice activated intercom,
Flight Data Systems GT-50 G-meter, clock/timer and voltmeter
Aerospace Logic four probe Egt & Cht,
Other gauges are Vans, Volt, Oil P, Oil T, Fuel P, Fuel level.
Single brakes
Manual aileron and elevator trim
Single leading edge landing light
Painted interior
Leather seats in fair condition
New tires and tubes
AeroFlash wingtip marker, position and double flash strobe combination units
All airframe parts primed inside and out with Dupont vari-prime self etching
primer.
Exterior painted with Dupont Imron.
Gross weight is set at1750lbs and empty weight is around1050lbs.
Always hangered
Fresh Condition inspection and Transponder check as of 2/3/07.
Performance stats:
Climbs 800 to 1800 fpm depending on load and temps.
Cruise: 8500 WOT, 2530 rpms, 158mph indicated, 185mph TAS @8.5-9gph
9500 WOT, 2500rpms, 158mph indicated, 188mph TAS @8.5-9gph
E-mail for pictures
Price: $65k
Thanks
Scott Frierson
Cell # 601-347-1114
_________________________________________________________________
The average US Credit Score is 675. The cost to see yours: $0 by Experian.
http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=660600&bcd=EMAILFOOTERAVERAGE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 1999 RV8 For Sale |
| From: | "N395V" <n395v(at)hughes.net> |
1999 RV8 For Sale 1050 TTAF O 360 180 HP
Photos and specs at
--------
Milt
N395V
F1 Rocket
www.excaliburaviation.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98571#98571
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Regarding Bose QC headsets |
Can anyone report on using the Bose QC2 headsets with the UflyMike
conversion for aircraft use? Sounds like a good deal but I'd like to know
what they actually work in the noisy RV environment.
Randy Lervold
RV-3B, almost done
RV-8, sold
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cordner" <davcor(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 12:33 PM
Subject: Regarding Bose QC headsets Was: RE: RV-List: ANR Headsets
>
> Regarding quiet comfort (non aviation) Bose headsets. I recently had a
> problem with a QC1 set of headsets, called Bose to arrange repair.
> Bad news, they could not/ would not repair.
> Good news for $100 they sent me a pair of the QC2 headsets. I had to send
> the QC1's to their depot for evaluation and received the new set in less
> than 10 days.
>
> I travel a lot for business (as passenger) I will NEVER go on another trip
> with out the QC headsets. Most recent long trip, Denver - LA, Singapore,
> Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Tokyo, Seattle - (replaced battery) back to Denver.
> Nearly 40 hours on one AAA
>
> Arrive at your destination feeling better, and travel more comfortably.
>
> Bose did not ask for original receipts, so......
>
> Get aviation ANR headsets too, you'll be glad you did. There are sources
> for
> upgrade kits to take passive to ANR. Use Google to find, very easy to do.
>
> Dave Cordner
> RV-7 N898DC (rsvd)
> Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE:Comparing Bose X headset to the QCII, was ANR Headseats |
A quick data point- When the QC2 battery fails, you loose ALL audio, not
just the ANR. Com is lost. I realize that batteries last a looong time in
these units, and that the battery indicator LED starts flashing well in
advance of unit failure, but there is no failsafe mode. A point to
consider-
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Cordner" <davcor(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | upgrade- dont use qc2's in your plane! :Comparing Bose X headset |
to the QCII, was ANR Headseats
Right, In my earlier post describing how pleased I am with the QC2 I guess I
failed to say these are NOT aviation headsets.
If you want to see what the benefit of the Bose or other vendors ANR sets
are, either borrow a set, or toss about $250 (less than the cost of the QC2
headsets and designed for aviation needs) at your old David Clarks or others
and put an ANR upgrade in. I bought someone else's upgraded set when he
finished his RV10 and outfitted the new plane with new Bose (4 places -
nice).
Bottom line, final is no place to be debugging a kludged headset
arrangement...
If I can't afford two new Bose aviation headsets when I launch my '7, I'll
buy another kit and upgrade one of my DC's
use google, there are several sources.... around $169 here for David Clarks:
http://anr-headsets.com
do 2 headsets for a little more than list price of the QC2's
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of glen matejcek
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2007 8:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: RE:Comparing Bose X headset to the QCII, was ANR
Headseats
A quick data point- When the QC2 battery fails, you loose ALL audio, not
just the ANR. Com is lost. I realize that batteries last a looong time in
these units, and that the battery indicator LED starts flashing well in
advance of unit failure, but there is no failsafe mode. A point to
consider-
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Regarding Bose QC headsets |
Don't have info on use in a airplane, but I did read a review that said
when the battery quits so does the music, or in our case, the radio.
Something to think about.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2007 6:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Regarding Bose QC headsets
Can anyone report on using the Bose QC2 headsets with the UflyMike
conversion for aircraft use? Sounds like a good deal but I'd like to
know
what they actually work in the noisy RV environment.
Randy Lervold
RV-3B, almost done
RV-8, sold
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cordner" <davcor(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 12:33 PM
Subject: Regarding Bose QC headsets Was: RE: RV-List: ANR Headsets
>
> Regarding quiet comfort (non aviation) Bose headsets. I recently had a
> problem with a QC1 set of headsets, called Bose to arrange repair.
> Bad news, they could not/ would not repair.
> Good news for $100 they sent me a pair of the QC2 headsets. I had to
send
> the QC1's to their depot for evaluation and received the new set in
less
> than 10 days.
>
> I travel a lot for business (as passenger) I will NEVER go on another
trip
> with out the QC headsets. Most recent long trip, Denver - LA,
Singapore,
> Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Tokyo, Seattle - (replaced battery) back to
Denver.
> Nearly 40 hours on one AAA
>
> Arrive at your destination feeling better, and travel more
comfortably.
>
> Bose did not ask for original receipts, so......
>
> Get aviation ANR headsets too, you'll be glad you did. There are
sources
> for
> upgrade kits to take passive to ANR. Use Google to find, very easy to
do.
>
> Dave Cordner
> RV-7 N898DC (rsvd)
> Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | "We Love RV's" Invitational Luncheon April 14th at Leeward Air |
Ranch
The Leeward Air Ranch RVators are having their Annual "We Love RV's"
Invitational Luncheon April 14th at Leeward Air Ranch, (FD04), near
Ocala, FL. We had about 100 RV's fly-in at the 2005 event. April 14th is
the weekend before Sun n Fun. We expect a lot of out of state RV's since
we are only 67NM North of Lakeland (LAL) We are tentatively setting the
15th as a rain date.
This gathering is by invitation only. If you think you can make it,
Please email Esten Spears, ewspears(at)comcast.net with names of people
that will attend with you. (wife, kids, or friends) Also would like to
know what RV or other plane you will be arriving in. If you plan to
drive in let me know that.
I will email you back with an Invitation including flying and driving
instructions.
Please inform any other RV Enthusiasts you know about our Gathering and
have them email me with the info I've asked for.
The many RVators at Leeward Air Ranch Hope you can make it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "We Love RV's" Invitational Luncheon April 14th at Leeward |
Air Ranch
Please include Richard and Ruth Dudley who will arrive in our yellow and
white RV-6A, N331RD.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
Esten Spears wrote:
> The Leeward Air Ranch RVators are having their Annual "We Love RV's"
> Invitational Luncheon April 14th at Leeward Air Ranch, (FD04), near
> Ocala, FL. We had about 100 RV's fly-in at the 2005 event. April 14th
> is the weekend before Sun n Fun. We expect a lot of out of state RV's
> since we are only 67NM North of Lakeland (LAL) We are tentatively
> setting the 15th as a rain date.
>
> This gathering is by invitation only. If you think you can make it,
> Please email Esten Spears, ewspears(at)comcast.net with names of people
> that will attend with you. (wife, kids, or friends) Also would like to
> know what RV or other plane you will be arriving in. If you plan to
> drive in let me know that.
> I will email you back with an Invitation including flying and driving
> instructions.
> Please inform any other RV Enthusiasts you know about our Gathering
> and have them email me with the info I've asked for.
>
> The many RVators at Leeward Air Ranch Hope you can make it!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Dalton" <ddalton536(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: upgrade- dont use qc2's in your plane! :Comparing Bose X |
headset to the QCII, was ANR Headseats
I am building an RV-7 and will use my lightspeed ANR headset in them.
However, my 'other' airplane is Canadair Regional Jet, which I fly for one
of the regional airlines. I use the Bose QC2 with the Uflymike adapter, as
do many of the other pilots who fly the RJ. If you use rechargable
batteries in the QC2, there is no warning when the battery fails, however,
if you use standard batteries, the light on the side of the headset will
start to blink when you have about 5 hours of life left in them.
The flight department in our airline has no problem with both pilots being
on QC2s, as long as we are not using rechargeable batteries.
For what it's worth...
DD
On 3/3/07, Dave Cordner wrote:
>
>
> Right, In my earlier post describing how pleased I am with the QC2 I guess
> I
> failed to say these are NOT aviation headsets.
>
> If you want to see what the benefit of the Bose or other vendors ANR sets
> are, either borrow a set, or toss about $250 (less than the cost of the
> QC2
> headsets and designed for aviation needs) at your old David Clarks or
> others
> and put an ANR upgrade in. I bought someone else's upgraded set when he
> finished his RV10 and outfitted the new plane with new Bose (4 places -
> nice).
>
> Bottom line, final is no place to be debugging a kludged headset
> arrangement...
>
> If I can't afford two new Bose aviation headsets when I launch my '7, I'll
> buy another kit and upgrade one of my DC's
>
> use google, there are several sources.... around $169 here for David
> Clarks:
> http://anr-headsets.com
> do 2 headsets for a little more than list price of the QC2's
>
> Dave
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of glen matejcek
> Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2007 8:33 PM
> To: RV-List Digest Server
> Subject: RV-List: RE:Comparing Bose X headset to the QCII, was ANR
> Headseats
>
>
> A quick data point- When the QC2 battery fails, you loose ALL audio, not
> just the ANR. Com is lost. I realize that batteries last a looong time
> in
> these units, and that the battery indicator LED starts flashing well in
> advance of unit failure, but there is no failsafe mode. A point to
> consider-
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
I would like to get opinions and thoughts from anyone driving the HSI
feature of the Dynon D10A or D100 from a Garmin SL30 Garmin. I'm thinking
of doing this in lieu of having a DG and a CDI/LOC/GS/GPS indicator like a
MD200-306 indicator and wondering about the pros and cons of this. I
already have a Altitude Indicator.
Marty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RE: SL30 and Dynon |
Oops, I mean Attitude Indicator, it's electric not vacuum.
Marty
-----Original Message-----
From: Emrath [mailto:emrath(at)comcast.net]
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 3:24 PM
Subject: SL30 and Dynon
I would like to get opinions and thoughts from anyone driving the HSI
feature of the Dynon D10A or D100 from a Garmin SL30 Garmin. I'm thinking
of doing this in lieu of having a DG and a CDI/LOC/GS/GPS indicator like a
MD200-306 indicator and wondering about the pros and cons of this. I
already have a Altitude Indicator. Marty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RE: SL30 and Dynon |
I recently wired my SL30 and Garmin 396 to my Dynon D10A. Everything works
as advertised. I have a MD200 as well and it is the least used thing in my
panel for the VFR flying I do. So I think the answer to your question might
be sure, why not. But it really depends on your mission profile and
personal preference.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 280 Hrs & RV-7 in progress...
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Emrath [mailto:emrath(at)comcast.net]
> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 10:26 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RE: SL30 and Dynon
>
>
> Oops, I mean Attitude Indicator, it's electric not vacuum.
> Marty
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Emrath [mailto:emrath(at)comcast.net]
> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 3:24 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: SL30 and Dynon
>
>
> I would like to get opinions and thoughts from anyone driving the HSI
> feature of the Dynon D10A or D100 from a Garmin SL30 Garmin.
> I'm thinking
> of doing this in lieu of having a DG and a CDI/LOC/GS/GPS
> indicator like a
> MD200-306 indicator and wondering about the pros and cons of this. I
> already have a Altitude Indicator. Marty
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry James" <larry(at)ncproto.com> |
| Subject: | ANR Headsets - power plugs |
A question along the lines of ANR: what are the connector options for ANR
Headsets using ship's power ?? I want to get rid of battery packs flopping
around in our Decathlon and avoid the issue from the beginning in our
Rocket.
>From what I seem to have found so far there are 4 different plug
configurations:
Bose - some sort of single plug handling mic, headset, and ANR power.
Telex - another sort of single plug handling mic, headset, and ANR power. I
have this and it is a Lemo brand connector.
Lightspeed - standard plugs for mic and headset with a 3rd plug for ANR
power.
Sennheiser - standard plugs for mic and headset with another 3rd plug for
ANR power.
Are there any other plug configurations ?? Is there a standard emerging ??
So far it's looking like a 3-plug configuration will be the way to go so
that worst-case I can use any headset in any aircraft although the ANR will
only function in those aircraft equipped with whichever power receptacle I
choose to interface with.
Now how about power . does the ANR accept 12vdc ??
Larry E. James
Bellevue, WA
Super Decathlon
Rocket (fuselage / systems)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Williams" <mr.gsun(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Spare Parts List |
Is there a list of spare nuts & bolts & cotter pins & misc stuff out there
to maintain an RV? I'd like to order up a package of stuff to have around
rather than searching. I bought this RV flying already.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Re: Too much fun!! |
0-523536320-1173141513=:27092--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Re: Too much fun!! |
_http://video.yahoo.com/video/play?vid=61b3901ac51b5c12457145eea53b71bc.150423
2&cache=1_
(http://video.yahoo.com/video/play?vid=61b3901ac51b5c12457145eea53b71bc.1504232&cache=1)
**************************************
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spare Parts List |
Before buying materials, I think you should consider first who has the
authority to do maintenance on your plane. Usually the airplane builder
will get the certificate to do that on that particular plane only. This
privilege cannot be sold along with the plane unfortunately. The only
other people who can legally do all types of maintenance work on an
experimental are FAA authorized airplane mechanics.
You can legally do things like add and change oil and filter, add air in
tires, put grease in the tail wheel -- But the annual inspection work
must be performed by a licensed A&P. You really should not need spare
nuts and bolts. If you have insurance and want to rely on it, you need
to maintain the plane per the FAA rules or else it is money wasted.
Larry in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Williams
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 1:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Spare Parts List
Is there a list of spare nuts & bolts & cotter pins & misc stuff out
there to maintain an RV? I'd like to order up a package of stuff to
have around rather than searching. I bought this RV flying already.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spare Parts List |
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
> Before buying materials, I think you should consider first who has
> the authority to do maintenance on your plane. Usually the airplane
> builder will get the certificate to do that on that particular plane
> only. This privilege cannot be sold along with the plane
> unfortunately. The only other people who can legally do all types of
> maintenance work on an experimental are FAA authorized airplane
> mechanics.
>
> You can legally do things like add and change oil and filter, add air
> in tires, put grease in the tail wheel -- But the annual inspection
> work must be performed by a licensed A&P. You really should not
> need spare nuts and bolts. If you have insurance and want to rely on
> it, you need to maintain the plane per the FAA rules or else it is
> money wasted.
Greg can legally do any work on the plane he chooses. He just needs to
get an A&P to sign the condition inspect every twelve months. The
restrictive requirements stated in the above post do not apply to
aircraft with experimental certificates.
Sam Buchanan
====================
> Is there a list of spare nuts & bolts & cotter pins & misc stuff out
> there to maintain an RV? I'd like to order up a package of stuff to
> have around rather than searching. I bought this RV flying already.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spare Parts List |
Larry:
ANYONE can do ANY work on an EXPERIMENTAL aircraft. (may not be wise if you
do not know what you are doing but it is LEGAL)
The Repairman or an A & P is only necessary to do the ONCE a year CONDITION
INSPECTION.
A major change requires FAA FSDO approval of a flight test area.
Gary A. Sobek
FAA A&P / DAR
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,981 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
----Original Message Follows----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Spare Parts List
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2007 19:14:23 -0600
Before buying materials, I think you should consider first who has the
authority to do maintenance on your plane. Usually the airplane builder
will get the certificate to do that on that particular plane only. This
privilege cannot be sold along with the plane unfortunately. The only other
people who can legally do all types of maintenance work on an experimental
are FAA authorized airplane mechanics.
You can legally do things like add and change oil and filter, add air in
tires, put grease in the tail wheel -- But the annual inspection work must
be performed by a licensed A&P. You really should not need spare nuts and
bolts. If you have insurance and want to rely on it, you need to maintain
the plane per the FAA rules or else it is money wasted.
Larry in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Williams
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 1:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Spare Parts List
Is there a list of spare nuts & bolts & cotter pins & misc stuff out
there to maintain an RV? I'd like to order up a package of stuff to have
around rather than searching. I bought this RV flying already.
_________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spare Parts List |
Not true,
anyone can do the maintenance, only the builder or the others you
mentioned can sign the condition inspection.
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
> Before buying materials, I think you should consider first who has the
> authority to do maintenance on your plane. Usually the airplane
> builder will get the certificate to do that on that particular plane
> only. This privilege cannot be sold along with the plane
> unfortunately. The only other people who can legally do all types
> of maintenance work on an experimental are FAA authorized airplane
> mechanics.
>
> You can legally do things like add and change oil and filter, add air
> in tires, put grease in the tail wheel -- But the annual inspection
> work must be performed by a licensed A&P. You really should not
> need spare nuts and bolts. If you have insurance and want to rely on
> it, you need to maintain the plane per the FAA rules or else it is
> money wasted.
>
> Larry in Indiana
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Greg Williams <mailto:mr.gsun(at)gmail.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 1:33 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Spare Parts List
>
> Is there a list of spare nuts & bolts & cotter pins & misc stuff
> out there to maintain an RV? I'd like to order up a package of
> stuff to have around rather than searching. I bought this RV
> flying already.
>
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernie & Margo" <ekells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Spare Parts List |
Greg: You are asking a good question. Perhaps the answer is in the
archive. Look for "traveling tool kit", "airplane tools", "emergency
tools", or similar search string. I am close to starting this - but not
yet. The list of things to include in your traveling toolkit would
include a few cotter pins in the two popular sizes, a length of safety
wire in the two sizes, a couple of fuses in every size that you would
require to get you back home, small bolts plus washers and nuts in the
small sizes, a tire gage perhaps, a small tool bag that you can strap
down, etc. If you find something good let us all know. Others can
submit as well. Ernie RV-9A O235 wood prop
From: Greg Williams
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Is there a list of spare nuts & bolts & cotter pins & misc stuff out
there to maintain an RV? I'd like to order up a package of stuff to
have around rather than searching. I bought this RV flying already.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spare Parts List |
Without knowing what type of fasteners the original builder used to assemble his
RV, it is difficult suggest specific hardware items to keep on hand. For instance,
are the wingtips, cowling, and fairings installed with screws? If so,
identify the type used and keep a small stash handy. Anytime a screw gets even
slightly worn on my RV, I just throw it away and install a new one. An on-board
emergency tool kit can be as spartan or as extensive as your imagination
permits. You might want to consider keeping a spare fuel cap on board. You never
know when a refueling event at some distant airport will result in a failed
cap, and finding a local replacement can be problematic. Of course, duct tape
is always handy to keep on board and can even be pressed into service as an
instant fuel cap if need be. Enjoy your RV. Although you do not possess its
unique Repairman's Certificate, you do enjoy a great deal of leeway in maintaining
it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spare Parts List |
Rick Galati wrote:
> Without knowing what type of fasteners the original builder used to
> assemble his RV, it is difficult suggest specific hardware items to
> keep on hand. For instance, are the wingtips, cowling, and fairings
> installed with screws? If so, identify the type used and keep a
> small stash handy. Anytime a screw gets even slightly worn on my RV,
> I just throw it away and install a new one. An on-board emergency
> tool kit can be as spartan or as extensive as your imagination
> permits. You might want to consider keeping a spare fuel cap on
> board. You never know when a refueling event at some distant airport
> will result in a failed cap, and finding a local replacement can be
> problematic. Of course, duct tape is always handy to keep on board
> and can even be pressed into service as an instant fuel cap if need
> be. Enjoy your RV. Although you do not possess its unique
> Repairman's Certificate, you do enjoy a great deal of leeway in
> maintaining it.
Another item I would add to the flight bag is either a spare fuel sump
value or a 1/8" NPT plug. I've had a sump valve o-ring go bad a couple
of times and needed to make a quick swap. You can easily change out the
valve with either the spare or the plug and lose very little fuel in the
process.
Also found in my kit is a 6" length of 1/16" stainless welding rod from
which a new pin can be quickly made for a fuel cap. And be sure you fly
with a spare nose wheel tube or tailwheel chain link, whichever the case
may be.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronlee(at)pcisys.net |
| Subject: | Re: Spare Parts List |
In assition to the hardware mentioned, I include main and nose
tires/tubes, fuel cap, duct tape, tools needed to remove nose
wheel fairing (hex wrench), valve stem removal tool and extra
valve stems (the insert thingies), plus other stuff I would
have to check.
I have used the spare cap away from home.
I have given a nose wheel tire and tube to my hangar mate
away from home.
Sam. thanks for the idea about the wing sump fitting. I will
add that and an O-ring.
Obviously you need basic tools.
I will also be carrying an extra voltage regulator since I have
converted to a plug and replace connector.
Ron
Lee
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using Endymion MailMan.
http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spare Parts List |
Don't 4-get a spare spark plug and wrench.
On Mar 6, 2007, at 5:36 AM, Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Rick Galati wrote:
>
>> Without knowing what type of fasteners the original builder used to
>> assemble his RV, it is difficult suggest specific hardware items to
>> keep on hand. For instance, are the wingtips, cowling, and fairings
>> installed with screws? If so, identify the type used and keep a
>> small stash handy. Anytime a screw gets even slightly worn on my RV,
>> I just throw it away and install a new one. An on-board emergency
>> tool kit can be as spartan or as extensive as your imagination
>> permits. You might want to consider keeping a spare fuel cap on
>> board. You never know when a refueling event at some distant airport
>> will result in a failed cap, and finding a local replacement can be
>> problematic. Of course, duct tape is always handy to keep on board
>> and can even be pressed into service as an instant fuel cap if need
>> be. Enjoy your RV. Although you do not possess its unique
>> Repairman's Certificate, you do enjoy a great deal of leeway in
>> maintaining it.
>>
>
> Another item I would add to the flight bag is either a spare fuel
> sump value or a 1/8" NPT plug. I've had a sump valve o-ring go bad
> a couple of times and needed to make a quick swap. You can easily
> change out the valve with either the spare or the plug and lose
> very little fuel in the process.
>
> Also found in my kit is a 6" length of 1/16" stainless welding rod
> from which a new pin can be quickly made for a fuel cap. And be
> sure you fly with a spare nose wheel tube or tailwheel chain link,
> whichever the case may be.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Bose X, QC2, and Headset rant! |
On 2:37 2007-03-06 Paul Besing wrote:
> Now for my personal rant, it's amazing to me that people continue
> to find a cheap way around headsets. Upgrading a pair of painful
> clamping DC's from 1983, wiring your own, etc, etc. It is probably the
> single most important piece of flying gear. It's comfort, it's
> hearing, it's, communication. If one were spending 60-80K on building
> an airplane, a $1,000 purchase for headsets seems cheap to me.
I hear what you're saying Paul, but here's what it boils down to for me:
My David Clarks are comfortable. I have a pair of 10-13.4's that have
served me well for 7 years. They've never been uncomfortable, and I have a
head that, to be nice to myself, "is of above average size." For that
headset, I paid less than 1/3 the cost of a Bose X.
Your comparison to spending 60-80K on building an airplane is extremely
poor. By building an RV, i'm spending 60-80K on building an airplane that
when finished will be worth more than that (how much more remains to be
seen). By buying a Bose X, I would be spending $1K on a headset that might
cost $200 to make in a Chinese factory.
If we used the argument that "$X is cheap, when you're spending $60K to
build your airplane", it wouldn't take long before it was costing $100K to
build your airplane.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
Well,
I have a bag of crap on the tool kit, but I have no idea what I put in
there????
Cotter pins for a few things like axles
Zip ties, various sizes
Safety wire, several sizes
300-kt tape, silver, red might be better though as it could be used for
emergency lettering
Various wire terminals
Spare fuses and bulbs for the few things that have them
1 set of brake pads and rivets
2 spark plugs
Possibly some misc AN hardware bolt, however if I break anything along these
lines the odds are fairly low that having an extra will be all that is
needed.
Some various screws and stuff for missing cowl/fairing screws.
Spare key for ign and fuel caps
Brake M/C overhaul kit (spring and orings)
Spare fuel cap pins and oring, although I don't have those kind of caps
anymore??? I guess I should work on that.
Tire valve stem valve and extra cap
Extra anywheremap/compaq connector - they break easily
Probably a few other things I can't think of right now.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Bose X, QC2, and Headset rant! |
On 13:02 2007-03-06 luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) wrote:
> have you taken any 3 + 3 hour trips in one day (ie, long cross
> country for 6 hours or more)?
>
> How do you keep the plugs sanitary and how often do you change plugs
> and can you find them cheaply locally?
If they're anything like my custom silicone earplugs, they're easy to keep
clean. Soap and water washes the plug portion and they're good as new.
I've worn my silicone ones for a 12 hour trans-pacific flight, and they
were comfortable and noise-attenuating all the way.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glaesers" <glaesers(at)wideopenwest.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Bose X, QC2, and Headset rant! |
I've modified a Plantronics Star headset to use earplugs, similar to the
Clarity Aloft, using a tubing 'Y' and poking holes in foam earplugs with a
hot wire and sliding them over plastic tubing running to each ear.
I've found a type of earplug that is both comfortable and reduce noise by a
reported 33db - Max 200-1 (they are red and have sort of a bell shape). I
can wear them for hours in total comfort - don't even notice that I have
them in.
You can make your own replacement earplugs for the Clarity Aloft the same
way. I use a coat hanger wire heated with a propane torch to poke the
holes. I've made some replacement plugs for my son's Clarity Aloft. I just
stripped off the CA foam plug and slid on the new ones.
I wear the same foam plugs when riveting. Far more effective than any
earmuff type of protection.
Dennis Glaeser
RV7A - Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Superior XP O320 vs. 9A - Continuing Saga |
| From: | "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com> |
I wrote several weeks ago about the interference between Superior's O320
carb and the 9A's lower cowl. The planned fix from Superior is to swap
out the longer carb with a shorter one. Superior has been telling me
that the testing of the new carb keeps getting bumped. They supposedly
were finally able to test it last week, but the EGT's varied by as much
as 300 degrees. According to the Superior rep, they have ordered
another carb to test, but may have to test several before they get
acceptable test results.
This news is very disappointing to me, as I was hoping to fly to
Sun-n-Fun in April. The good news is that I'll have a 9-hour drive to
stew about having to drive and to wonder if Aerosport wouldn't have been
a better choice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | horiz. snorkel and cowling clearance |
Hey guys,
I just fit my horiz. induction snorkel to the engin and baffling, but
when I put the cowl bottom cowl on, it touches the lower front part of
the snorkel. Any suggestions, or am I just going to have to cut out a
piece out of the snorkel and make it smaller.
Thanks in advance,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Alternator field current? |
Folks,
I may be having a brain lockup, but trying to determine field current for
the old 14184 type Van's alternator. I just began running my engine for the
first time, and thought I had it wired per Z-11. I had inserted a 5a fuse onto
the field circuit at the bus because I thought this would be equivalent to
inserting one inline after the switch as Z-11 shows instead of the 22AWG
fuselink. Z-11 looks like this circuit has double protection with the fuselink
and
5a fuse on the same circuit
.
Well, upon first start, the 5a fuse on the buss blew, so I have two
questions for Bob and/or other smart people on this list.
1) Why the "extra" protection on the field circuit?
2) What typically would the current draw be on the field circuit for this
35a alternator. I checked the archives and manuals, no joy...
BTW, if it matters, this is the "Generic Ford" regulator as per Z-11
Any/all advice/input appreciated...
If you have an immediate answer, please email me as well at jerry2dt(at)aol.com
Jerry Cochran
RV6a FAA inspection tomorrow!!!
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior XP O320 vs. 9A - Continuing Saga |
Daniel,
So I take it Superior is using a non-standard O-320 carburetor? Have you
thought about ordering an RV-7A O-360 lower cowl? I had a similar problem...
discovered that my SilverHawk FI servo is taller than an O-320 carb
necessitating a lower cowl with the O-360 scoop. Full story...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm#Finish
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 5:22 AM
Subject: RV-List: Superior XP O320 vs. 9A - Continuing Saga
>
> I wrote several weeks ago about the interference between Superior's O320
> carb and the 9A's lower cowl. The planned fix from Superior is to swap
> out the longer carb with a shorter one. Superior has been telling me
> that the testing of the new carb keeps getting bumped. They supposedly
> were finally able to test it last week, but the EGT's varied by as much
> as 300 degrees. According to the Superior rep, they have ordered
> another carb to test, but may have to test several before they get
> acceptable test results.
>
> This news is very disappointing to me, as I was hoping to fly to
> Sun-n-Fun in April. The good news is that I'll have a 9-hour drive to
> stew about having to drive and to wonder if Aerosport wouldn't have been
> a better choice.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator field current? |
Jerry
My B&C 60A draws about 4 amps.
Richard Reynolds
Norfolk, VA RV-6A, 350 hours
On Mar 7, 2007, at 1:22 PM, Jerry2DT(at)aol.com wrote:
> Folks,
>
> I may be having a brain lockup, but trying to determine field
> current for the old 14184 type Van's alternator. I just began
> running my engine for the first time, and thought I had it wired
> per Z-11. I had inserted a 5a fuse onto the field circuit at the
> bus because I thought this would be equivalent to inserting one
> inline after the switch as Z-11 shows instead of the 22AWG
> fuselink. Z-11 looks like this circuit has double protection with
> the fuselink and 5a fuse on the same circuit
> .
> Well, upon first start, the 5a fuse on the buss blew, so I have two
> questions for Bob and/or other smart people on this list.
>
> 1) Why the "extra" protection on the field circuit?
>
> 2) What typically would the current draw be on the field circuit
> for this 35a alternator. I checked the archives and manuals, no joy...
>
> BTW, if it matters, this is the "Generic Ford" regulator as per Z-11
>
> Any/all advice/input appreciated...
>
> If you have an immediate answer, please email me as well at
> jerry2dt(at)aol.com
>
> Jerry Cochran
> RV6a FAA inspection tomorrow!!!
>
>
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about
> what1227241x4298082137/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com" href="http://
> pr.atwola.com/promoclk/1615326657x4311227241x4298082137/aol?
> redir=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eaol%2Ecom" target="_blank">AOL.com.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator field current? |
Jerry,
The field current is not necessarily related to the output current rating of
the alternator. It would normally be smaller for a small alternator, but not
always in direct proportion. It should be less than 10 amps for sure. Try a
temporary 10 amp fuse in place of your 5 amp fuse. If that blows, you have a
problem. If it works, measure the current and use a fuse rated for about 1.5
to 2 times that current.
I think the field fuse or switch/breaker is just a way to disable the
alternator if it should become necessary for any reason -- like an overvoltage
condition. Some automotive internal electronic regulators may not turn off if
the
"field" breaker is turned off. They must get power from some other source.
There has been a lot of discussion about this on various lists.
Dan Hopper
Automotive engineer, ret.
RV-7A
N766DH Just flew yesterday, finally -- weather has been awful here in IN this
winter.
In a message dated 3/7/2007 1:26:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Jerry2DT(at)aol.com writes:
.
Well, upon first start, the 5a fuse on the buss blew, so I have two questions
for Bob and/or other smart people on this list.
1) Why the "extra" protection on the field circuit?
2) What typically would the current draw be on the field circuit for this 35a
alternator. I checked the archives and manuals, no joy...
BTW, if it matters, this is the "Generic Ford" regulator as per Z-11
Any/all advice/input appreciated...
If you have an immediate answer, please email me as well at jerry2dt(at)aol.com
Jerry Cochran
RV6a FAA inspection tomorrow!!!
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: horiz. snorkel and cowling clearance |
I did the same thing. You need to remove some of the snorkel to make it
shorter.
Larry in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Rice
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: horiz. snorkel and cowling clearance
Hey guys,
I just fit my horiz. induction snorkel to the engin and baffling, but
when I put the cowl bottom cowl on, it touches the lower front part of
the snorkel. Any suggestions, or am I just going to have to cut out a
piece out of the snorkel and make it smaller.
Thanks in advance,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: horiz. snorkel and cowling clearance |
Thanks Larry,
Just wanted to make sure I wasn't the only one that ever had this
problem.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: LarryRobertHelming<mailto:lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: horiz. snorkel and cowling clearance
I did the same thing. You need to remove some of the snorkel to make
it shorter.
Larry in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Rice<mailto:rice737(at)msn.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: horiz. snorkel and cowling clearance
Hey guys,
I just fit my horiz. induction snorkel to the engin and baffling,
but when I put the cowl bottom cowl on, it touches the lower front part
of the snorkel. Any suggestions, or am I just going to have to cut out
a piece out of the snorkel and make it smaller.
Thanks in advance,
Paul
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
ator?RV-List>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
I gotta go with the gentleman that mentioned the Clarity Aloft. I have
those and could not imagine going back to conventional headset. I've
worn the Bose and they are nice but they still are a headset. With the
Clarity you have no issues with sunglasses, hats or the clamping force
that gets old after a while. With the Bose you are paying $500 for the
headset and $500 for the name!!!
DArwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
RV7 N717EE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator field current? |
>Subject: RV-List: Alternator field current?
>
>I may be having a brain lockup, but trying to determine field current
>for the old 14184 type Van's alternator. Z-11 looks like this circuit has
>double protection with the fuselink and 5a fuse on the same circuit.
5 Amps is plenty. Remember you are protecting the wire NOT the
regulator or alternator.
To answer your question I would guess the draw at max output
to be about 3 amps, 3.5 amps.
The Z-11 dwg? In general you have two protections in the charge
system. One from the battery or battery bus (via the starter contactor
typical of Bobs scheme) to the output of the alternator (B-lead). This
fuse, cuircuit breaker or fusible link must be at least 35 amps to
handle the output but still protect the wire. I assume the field wire is
at least 6 awg. The protection is near the battery or where the B-lead
attaches to the pos circuit.
The second protection is the HOT wire (+A terminal) to the voltage
regulator (VR). This fuse or CB is about 5 amps, near the pos source.
You should NOT see two protections in series on one wire.
George
---------------------------------
Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <jmsears(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator field current? |
> 5 Amps is plenty. Remember you are protecting
> the wire NOT the regulator or alternator.
I agree with George on this. The fuse or breaker is only to protect the
wire.
>> In general you have two protections in the charge system. One from the
>> battery or battery bus (via the starter contactor
typical of Bobs scheme) to the output of the alternator (B-lead). This fuse,
cuircuit breaker or fusible link must be at least 35 amps to handle the
output but still protect the wire. I assume the field wire is at least 6
awg. The protection is near the battery or where the B-lead attaches to the
pos circuit.<<
Again, I agree with George.
> The second protection is the HOT wire (+A terminal) to the voltage >
> regulator (VR). This fuse or CB is about 5 amps, near the pos source.
And, this is what I'm using in my RV with no problems. I'm using a 35amp
alternator, as well.
> You should NOT see two protections in series on one wire.
Let me add a small addition, here. In addition to the 5amp fuse or breaker,
let me suggest an over voltage protection device, if you don't have one
built into your system at the voltage regulator. This device checks the
voltage to see if the alternator is putting out more voltage than it should.
The limit is set at about 16V on the one I have. If the volatage surpasses
the limit, the device triggers a direct short in the field wire that causes
the fuse or breaker to fail. That protects the avionics, not the wire,
against a runaway alternator if the voltage regulator fails. It's not
needed when the regulator is functioning well; but, it can save you some
money if the regulator fails.
As for the fuse or breaker, let me suggest the breaker. I used a fuse in
mine and ran into trouble with that idea when I was sorting out a problem in
the charging system. I went through several fuses before all was said and
done. The OV protection kept blowing the fuses, even when the new regulator
was functioning well. I figured out it was the OV protection device that
was failing in error. I sent it back for repairs. Shortly, I'll be putting
the OV device back into the system and will do away with the fuse in favor
of a new 5 amp breaker.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (On hold due to laziness)
EAA Tech Counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Dennis.
What type of ear plug are you using? Brand ect-- I'm
considering getting one of those types of head sets. My next purchase of
head sets will be one like that. I don't want to be "ripped" off with
replacement tips.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A (last electrical check before last skin on fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator field current? |
I have had this happen in my 170. The regulator went gunnysack and the OV
protection kicked in. But apparently it was of a type the smoked itself
inside to break the circuit and the alternator quit working. The problem
was when the OV blew it made smoke in the cockpit. Since I didn't know what
was going on at the time I shut down all electrical and made a steep spiral
to a landing on an extreme high crosswind dirt landing strip just north of
Lancaster, CA. I had to keep the plane running on the middle of the runway
while my wife got out and held the tail. Then I could shut down and get off
the runway. The good side was all my avionics were in good shape.
Tim
> > You should NOT see two protections in series on one wire.
>
> Let me add a small addition, here. In addition to the 5amp fuse or
> breaker,
> let me suggest an over voltage protection device, if you don't have one
> built into your system at the voltage regulator. This device checks the
> voltage to see if the alternator is putting out more voltage than it
> should.
> The limit is set at about 16V on the one I have. If the volatage
> surpasses
> the limit, the device triggers a direct short in the field wire that
> causes
> the fuse or breaker to fail. That protects the avionics, not the wire,
> against a runaway alternator if the voltage regulator fails. It's not
> needed when the regulator is functioning well; but, it can save you some
> money if the regulator fails.
>
> As for the fuse or breaker, let me suggest the breaker. I used a fuse in
> mine and ran into trouble with that idea when I was sorting out a problem
> in
> the charging system. I went through several fuses before all was said and
> done. The OV protection kept blowing the fuses, even when the new
> regulator
> was functioning well. I figured out it was the OV protection device that
> was failing in error. I sent it back for repairs. Shortly, I'll be
> putting
> the OV device back into the system and will do away with the fuse in favor
> of a new 5 amp breaker.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
> RV-7A #70317 (On hold due to laziness)
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <jmsears(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator field current? |
>> I have had this happen in my 170. The regulator went gunnysack and the
>> OV protection kicked in. But apparently it was of a type the smoked
>> itself inside to break the circuit and the alternator quit working. The
>> problem was when the OV blew it made smoke in the cockpit.<<
Yep, this is how I learned about the device in my Cheetah. It, too, failed
and had to be replaced. Fortunately, I was able to replace the regulator
with one that had OV protection built in. Since it was a commercially built
aircraft, and one that required a more expensive FAA approved regulator, I
opted to spend the few extra dollars to keep from having to by a regulator
and OV protection seperately. I
do have them seperate in the RV because I can use a $12 regulator in it. If
I chose, I can even roll my own OV protection device for a few dollars.
Jim in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Headset rant! |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
I didn't have that info handy when I made my previous post (and knew I
should have waited :-)
Here are the ear plugs I'm using:
http://earplugstore.stores.yahoo.net/holemaxuffop.html
I had originally gotten a pair of these at a local store, and loved
them, but then I couldn't find them again. So I searched online and
found them. I bought a box of 200, figuring that should last me a
while...
The headset I modified is a Plantronics MS50/T30-2 Aviation Headset.
You can usually find them on Ebay for around $50 (do a search for Item
number: 290090838388).
I like the Clarity Aloft headsets a lot (my son and his wife have them),
but for now my cheap alternative works fine.
Dennis
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------
Dennis.
What type of ear plug are you using? Brand ect-- I'm
considering getting one of those types of head sets. My next purchase
of
head sets will be one like that. I don't want to be "ripped" off with
replacement tips.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A (last electrical check before last skin on fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
Wish to obtain a Flight Manual useful for 180 hp injected RV-8 w/ fixed
pitch (85") Sensenich metal prop.
Thanks in advance for your help and/or suggestions.
Jack N8VZ taxiing tests, systems shakedown, corrections, etc,
etc.
_________________________________________________________________
Dont miss your chance to WIN 10 hours of private jet travel from Microsoft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
I've looked high and low on the Matronics Index and can't find anyone with a
downloadable checklist. Anyone got a downloadable copy?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T.C. Chang" <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com> |
I will mail you a copy in Word format. I also have GRT Horizon I electronic
check list and CV Checklists (Control Vision) on PDA.
Ted
------------------------------------------
T.C. Chang
http://tc1234c.googlepages.com/
tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com
RV-9A, Lycoming (ECI) O320-D2A, 160 hp, Carb, Dual Mag, Sensenich FP, all
electric, GRT dual DU H1, TT DigiFlight II VSGV, 125 Hobbs 3/8/2007
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 3:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Check List RV9A
I've looked high and low on the Matronics Index and can't find anyone with a
downloadable checklist. Anyone got a downloadable copy?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for Charlie Kuss |
Charlie:
I am going to be in Boca next Monday thru Friday.
I lost your number. Shoot me an email, and maybe we can get together some
time next week.
Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> |
I'd like to see a copy of this. I didn't see a link on your website to it,
but if one was there, it'd save you a lot of "me too" emails, like this one
Thanks,
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of T.C. Chang
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 3:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Check List RV9A
I will mail you a copy in Word format. I also have GRT Horizon I electronic
check list and CV Checklists (Control Vision) on PDA.
Ted
------------------------------------------
T.C. Chang
http://tc1234c.googlepages.com/
tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com
RV-9A, Lycoming (ECI) O320-D2A, 160 hp, Carb, Dual Mag, Sensenich FP, all
electric, GRT dual DU H1, TT DigiFlight II VSGV, 125 Hobbs 3/8/2007
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 3:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Check List RV9A
I've looked high and low on the Matronics Index and can't find anyone with a
downloadable checklist. Anyone got a downloadable copy?
Chuck
--
9:24 AM
--
10:58 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T.C. Chang" <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com> |
Brian,
I am using googlepages server and I am not able upload non-photo files. I
have created a new page called "checklist" that is linked from my homepage.
Ted
------------------------------------------
T.C. Chang
http://tc1234c.googlepages.com/
tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com
RV-9A, Lycoming (ECI) O320-D2A, 160 hp, Carb, Dual Mag, Sensenich FP, all
electric, GRT dual DU H1, TT DigiFlight II VSGV, 125 Hobbs 3/8/2007
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 10:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Check List RV9A
-->
I'd like to see a copy of this. I didn't see a link on your website to it,
but if one was there, it'd save you a lot of "me too" emails, like this one
Thanks, brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of T.C. Chang
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 3:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Check List RV9A
I will mail you a copy in Word format. I also have GRT Horizon I electronic
check list and CV Checklists (Control Vision) on PDA.
Ted
------------------------------------------
T.C. Chang
http://tc1234c.googlepages.com/
tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com
RV-9A, Lycoming (ECI) O320-D2A, 160 hp, Carb, Dual Mag, Sensenich FP, all
electric, GRT dual DU H1, TT DigiFlight II VSGV, 125 Hobbs 3/8/2007
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 3:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Check List RV9A
I've looked high and low on the Matronics Index and can't find anyone with a
downloadable checklist. Anyone got a downloadable copy?
Chuck
--
9:24 AM
--
10:58 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T.C. Chang" <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com> |
I figured out how to include text file download in googlepages server. I
created two pages with useful data:
A. http://tc1234c.googlepages.com/checklist2 : RV-9A checklist
B. http://tc1234c.googlepages.com/technicalinformation : wiring diagrams,
O320-D2A engine performance table, RV-9A POH, panel labels, and takeoff &
landing procedures.
Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)internode.on.net> |
| Subject: | Navaid AP Manual |
Hey all,
Does anyone out there have a Navaid Autopilot manual that can be sent to
me via email?
I recently bought an RV-6A with a Navaid and want to try to get the
Navaid set up better. The autopilot cannot maintain a good wings level
and continuously rocks the aircraft back and forth. Am hoping there is
some pearl in the setup that will mean I can avoid having to replace it
with a Trio.
Many thanks,
Scott Lewis
RV-6A VH-AFG
RV-10 40172
Quorn, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid AP Manual |
Its on navaids website, but the rocking you seeing is they need
Something to slow down the noise a little, once done they are rock
Solid.. call them and they will explain it very well to you..
423-267-3311 is the number.. the manual is at www.navaid-devices.com
have to look on the site to find the manual..
Sorry I couldn't be more help..
Danny..
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 11:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Navaid AP Manual
Hey all,
Does anyone out there have a Navaid Autopilot manual that can be sent to
me via email?
I recently bought an RV-6A with a Navaid and want to try to get the
Navaid set up better. The autopilot cannot maintain a good wings level
and continuously rocks the aircraft back and forth. Am hoping there is
some pearl in the setup that will mean I can avoid having to replace it
with a Trio.
Many thanks,
Scott Lewis
RV-6A VH-AFG
RV-10 40172
Quorn, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Reeves <n516dr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Brake Lines along gear legs - front or back? |
I just put my RV-7A on its gear,,,very exciting!
I was reviewing my preview plans and the brake lines are shown going down the
back of the main gear legs. When I went down to the hanger in my basement the
real plans indicate the lines should go down the front. The revision dates
on the two sets of plans are the same.
I know I should build off the real plans but the preview plans seem to make more
sense. The brake lines would be better protected going down the back side.
What have others done and does it really matter?
Thanks in advance!
Dan Reeves
RV-7A - starting to wonder how I'm going to get it out of the basement!
---------------------------------
Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T.C. Chang" <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Brake Lines along gear legs - front or back? |
I have it in front of the gear leg. The union comes out of the fuselage is
in front of the gear leg. I just run the line straight down. The line is
protected by the fairing.
Ted
------------------------------------------
T.C. Chang
<http://tc1234c.googlepages.com/> http://tc1234c.googlepages.com/
tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com
RV-9A, Lycoming (ECI) O320-D2A, 160 hp, Carb, Dual Mag, Sensenich FP
all electric, GRT dual DU H1, TT DigiFlight II VSGV, 125 Hobbs 3/8/2007
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Reeves
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2007 9:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Lines along gear legs - front or back?
I just put my RV-7A on its gear,,,very exciting!
I was reviewing my preview plans and the brake lines are shown going down
the back of the main gear legs. When I went down to the hanger in my
basement the real plans indicate the lines should go down the front. The
revision dates on the two sets of plans are the same.
I know I should build off the real plans but the preview plans seem to make
more sense. The brake lines would be better protected going down the back
side. What have others done and does it really matter?
Thanks in advance!
Dan Reeves
RV-7A - starting to wonder how I'm going to get it out of the basement!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)internode.on.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP Manual |
Hey Danny,
Thanks for the response. The only form of manual on the website that I
can find is the basic how to use bit. I am more interested in the setup
and adjustment details, like how can I get the Navaid to realise that
"wings level" is not a 5 degree bank to the right?
Thanks,
Scott Lewis
Quorn, South Australia
sportypilot wrote:
>
> Its on navaids website, but the rocking you seeing is they need
> Something to slow down the noise a little, once done they are rock
> Solid.. call them and they will explain it very well to you..
> 423-267-3311 is the number.. the manual is at www.navaid-devices.com
> have to look on the site to find the manual..
>
> Sorry I couldn't be more help..
>
> Danny..
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
> Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 11:55 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Navaid AP Manual
>
>
> Hey all,
>
> Does anyone out there have a Navaid Autopilot manual that can be sent to
> me via email?
>
> I recently bought an RV-6A with a Navaid and want to try to get the
> Navaid set up better. The autopilot cannot maintain a good wings level
> and continuously rocks the aircraft back and forth. Am hoping there is
> some pearl in the setup that will mean I can avoid having to replace it
> with a Trio.
>
> Many thanks,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-6A VH-AFG
> RV-10 40172
> Quorn, South Australia
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid AP Manual |
As far as centered , I would remove the wingtip and get it adjusted
With the knobs centered using the wing alignment holes to get both
Ailerons true centered, I am not sure if your using the smart coupler
I don't have one, he said he would fax me a new procedure to adjust
The pot as the one in the manual was hard to understand as I needed
To move the crank arm 90 degree's.. I know you're a long way
Away but calling him is your best bet.. he is very helpful..
I have all the manuals but I don't have a way to get them into
A document to email you..
Danny..
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2007 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid AP Manual
Hey Danny,
Thanks for the response. The only form of manual on the website that I
can find is the basic how to use bit. I am more interested in the setup
and adjustment details, like how can I get the Navaid to realise that
"wings level" is not a 5 degree bank to the right?
Thanks,
Scott Lewis
Quorn, South Australia
sportypilot wrote:
>
> Its on navaids website, but the rocking you seeing is they need
> Something to slow down the noise a little, once done they are rock
> Solid.. call them and they will explain it very well to you..
> 423-267-3311 is the number.. the manual is at www.navaid-devices.com
> have to look on the site to find the manual..
>
> Sorry I couldn't be more help..
>
> Danny..
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
> Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 11:55 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Navaid AP Manual
>
>
> Hey all,
>
> Does anyone out there have a Navaid Autopilot manual that can be sent to
> me via email?
>
> I recently bought an RV-6A with a Navaid and want to try to get the
> Navaid set up better. The autopilot cannot maintain a good wings level
> and continuously rocks the aircraft back and forth. Am hoping there is
> some pearl in the setup that will mean I can avoid having to replace it
> with a Trio.
>
> Many thanks,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-6A VH-AFG
> RV-10 40172
> Quorn, South Australia
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Lines along gear legs - front or back? |
Either way will work, choose whichever one leads to a cleaner path to
the firewall and into the cockpit. In my case that meant putting them on
the back of the leg. Just make sure you leave an adequate loop at the
bottom for removing/servicing the caliper, and that the line won't hit
the tire or iside of the wheel pant (chafing damage).
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/DSC_1024.jpg
Randy Lervold
RV-3B
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Reeves
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2007 6:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Lines along gear legs - front or back?
I just put my RV-7A on its gear,,,very exciting!
I was reviewing my preview plans and the brake lines are shown going
down the back of the main gear legs. When I went down to the hanger in
my basement the real plans indicate the lines should go down the front.
The revision dates on the two sets of plans are the same.
I know I should build off the real plans but the preview plans seem to
make more sense. The brake lines would be better protected going down
the back side. What have others done and does it really matter?
Thanks in advance!
Dan Reeves
RV-7A - starting to wonder how I'm going to get it out of the
basement!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Beene" <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid AP Manual |
Hi Scott,
I initially had some instability as you mentioned with my Navaid. Navaid
people were aware of this condition with some airplane with very light
aileron forces. They recommended a resistor installation at the servo.
This solved my problem.
The manual does have some information on setting the null position of the
gyro. This requires using a digital VOM across some pins on the rear of the
control unit and adjusting a pot.
I will get the manual from the hangar and send you some info.
Ken
RV-6A N94KB
RV-4 N63KB
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
> Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 11:55 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Navaid AP Manual
>
>
> Hey all,
>
> Does anyone out there have a Navaid Autopilot manual that can be sent to
> me via email?
>
> I recently bought an RV-6A with a Navaid and want to try to get the
> Navaid set up better. The autopilot cannot maintain a good wings level
> and continuously rocks the aircraft back and forth. Am hoping there is
> some pearl in the setup that will mean I can avoid having to replace it
> with a Trio.
>
> Many thanks,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-6A VH-AFG
> RV-10 40172
> Quorn, South Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Lines along gear legs - front or back? |
On HRII N561FS we had this conversation about 8 years ago, Ran them down
the back. In year two of flying we did have an airborne bird strike.
Took the entire left gear flaring off, gone. Not the wheel cover the
fairing only. Since the brake line was on the "back" side of the gear
leg it was untouched. Landing was smooth & the brakes worked. Had it
been on the front & exposed to "incoming", who knows.? ? ? KABONG Do
Not Archive. Just a short story. The RV-12 will have them in the back.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Reeves
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2007 6:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Lines along gear legs - front or back?
I just put my RV-7A on its gear,,,very exciting!
I was reviewing my preview plans and the brake lines are shown going
down the back of the main gear legs. When I went down to the hanger in
my basement the real plans indicate the lines should go down the front.
The revision dates on the two sets of plans are the same.
I know I should build off the real plans but the preview plans seem to
make more sense. The brake lines would be better protected going down
the back side. What have others done and does it really matter?
Thanks in advance!
Dan Reeves
RV-7A - starting to wonder how I'm going to get it out of the basement!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Lines along gear legs - front or back? |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Fogerson" <rickf(at)cableone.net> |
789RV is for sale. I have $52K and 6700 hours invested and have reduced
the price to $43K. Details and pictures can be seen at
www.barnstormers.com.
Thanks for your time, Rick Fogerson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV3B For Sale |
Hi Rick, what is the empty weight of your Rv3?
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Fogerson
To: rv3-list(at)matronics.com ; RV List
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 3:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV3B For Sale
789RV is for sale. I have $52K and 6700 hours invested and have
reduced the price to $43K. Details and pictures can be seen at
www.barnstormers.com.
Thanks for your time, Rick Fogerson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Autopilot wing rocking |
I've had the wing rocking thing on my autopilot since I got it, but I found
for me it is related to aileron trim. I have an external trim tab on the
outboard end of my left aileron. If I turn on the autopilot and the wings start
rocking, I can adjust the trim to one side (right, I think) and things calm
down. I'm sure that is slightly more drag, but I can live with it.
Rick Grenwis
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot wing rocking |
This wing rocking problem is covered under "SETTING SYSTEM GAIN" in the
Navaid manual.
Quoting from my manual, page 14:
"The autopilot should fly the airplane in a manner more or less similar to
that of human pilots. If the stick action feels too jittery for the weather
conditions, or if the airplane is continually hunting (oscillating) back and
forth like a snake trying to follow a straight line, the system gain is probably
set too high for your aircraft.
"Remembering that the trimpots should not be forced beyond their 9 o'clock
and 3 o'clock stops, you lower system gain by turning the SPAN trimpot
counterclockwise. Decrease the gain (turn SPAN trimpot counterclockwise) until
the
stick calms down, then increase it to the point where the stick becomes jittery
again. With your airplane operating at its usual cruise speed, set the gain as
high as possible without oscillation or jittery stick movement.
"If the SPAN trimpot ends up being set below 75% of maximum (full clockwise),
the servo RANGE trimpot is set too high and tracking performance may be
degraded. The following procedure increases servo resolution without changing
system gain. Land the airplane and measure (better write it down) the full range
of aileron movement obtainable using the TURN CONTROL with the autopilot in
Wing Leveler mode.
"Set the span to about 90% of full clockwise rotation.
"Adjust the RANGE trimpot on the servo printed circuit board to restore that
same range of aileron deflection."
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | RV6/6A Fuel Tank Attachment |
In preparation for replacing my loose slosh fuel tanks I want to mount
the inboard forward bracket attachment the way Van now recommends it. My
earlier plans just had you bolt the angle from the fuselage to the angle
from the fuel tank tip.
How is the 'new' arrangement? Which angle bracket gets the 1/4-inch
slot? The tank one or the fuselage one?
Also which goes forward - the tank bracket or the fuselage bracket.?
Which bracket gets the platenut?
My search said that Rvator #1 of 1998 shows what Van now recommends, but
my old Rvators were given away long ago. If someone had one handy and
could e-mail me what I believe is on page 11 of that issue I would
appreciate it.
Thanks for any help/insight.
John
n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6/6A Fuel Tank Attachment |
John Fasching wrote:
> In preparation for replacing my loose slosh fuel tanks I want to mount
> the inboard forward bracket attachment the way Van now recommends it.
> My earlier plans just had you bolt the angle from the fuselage to the
> angle from the fuel tank tip.
>
> How is the 'new' arrangement? Which angle bracket gets the 1/4-inch
> slot? The tank one or the fuselage one?
> Also which goes forward - the tank bracket or the fuselage bracket.?
> Which bracket gets the platenut?
John,
1st issue 1998, p 11 shows:
* slot in the tank angle
* plate nut in the fuselage angle
* tank angle forward of the fuselage angle.
If you'd like, I can scan the page and e-mail it directly to you.
Steve
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6/6A Fuel Tank Attachment |
No, thank you, Steve, the information you gave me is exactly what I
needed to know. I can take it from here.
Again, thank you !!!
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6/6A Fuel Tank Attachment |
Tank one goes foreward.
Tank one get s the slot.
Fuse one gets the platenut.
Just did my 6A.
Don't have the appropriate RVator handy though - but I can take pictures
next weekend of my install!
Zap me direct......if you want 'em.....
Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: John Fasching
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 1:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV6/6A Fuel Tank Attachment
In preparation for replacing my loose slosh fuel tanks I want to mount
the inboard forward bracket attachment the way Van now recommends it. My
earlier plans just had you bolt the angle from the fuselage to the angle
from the fuel tank tip.
How is the 'new' arrangement? Which angle bracket gets the 1/4-inch
slot? The tank one or the fuselage one?
Also which goes forward - the tank bracket or the fuselage bracket.?
Which bracket gets the platenut?
My search said that Rvator #1 of 1998 shows what Van now recommends,
but my old Rvators were given away long ago. If someone had one handy
and could e-mail me what I believe is on page 11 of that issue I would
appreciate it.
Thanks for any help/insight.
John
n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Allison <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6/6A Fuel Tank Attachment |
John Fasching wrote:
> No, thank you, Steve, the information you gave me is exactly what I
> needed to know. I can take it from here.
>
> Again, thank you !!!
John,
Just for the record, in case you don't have this, there are some details
on the bolt/washer installation. It is not a standard 1/4" bolt torque.
From the RVator:
"Do not over tighten the bolt. If there is too much clamping pressure
the joint will note separate. The correct torque is achieved by
tightening the bolt until the AN970 washer can barely be moved with your
fingers. Then tighten the bolt 1/6 of a turn (one flat on the head).
The bolt has a drilled head and should be safety wired."
Good luck with the tank slosh clean out.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Langley Fly-in June 23 |
The Langley, BC fly-in will be Saturday, June 23. This is the annual fly-in of
the Western Canada Wing. Langley, BC, is about 20 nm north of Bellingham, WA.
We generally have a good turnout of RVs from all over BC, and a good contingent
from the U.S., too.
Details are on our web page,
http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/
For U.S. visitors, the Home Wing web page has all the information you need on
border crossing procedures.
http://www.edt.com/homewing/international/
I hope lots of RV-Listers can make it.
---
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Full face mask for painting |
I'm looking for a source of full face masks to be used for painting using
supplied fresh air. I've located a 3m mask designed for this application
which costs $120.00. I've also found one that I think will work from
McMaster-Carr for $75.00 and they have disposable clear lens protectors for
this mask. Any other suggestions for a lower cost alternative or one better
suited for this application?
Anybody have experience wearing eyeglasses under one of these?
Thanks,
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronlee(at)pcisys.net |
| Subject: | Re: Langley Fly-in June 23 |
> For U.S. visitors, the Home Wing web page has all the information you
need on border crossing procedures.
>
> http://www.edt.com/homewing/international/
One possible correction. I believe that you need a passport now
to re-enter the USA. With processing times around 10 weeks now I would
expedite the paperwork.
http://travel.state.gov/passport/passport_1738.html
Ron
Lee
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using Endymion MailMan.
http://www.endymion.com/products/mailman/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Full face mask for painting |
In a message dated 3/11/2007 5:15:12 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
d-burton(at)comcast.net writes:
I'm looking for a source of full face masks to be used for painting using
supplied fresh air. I've located a 3m mask designed for this application
which costs $120.00. I've also found one that I think will work from
McMaster-Carr for $75.00 and they have disposable clear lens protectors for
this mask. Any other suggestions for a lower cost alternative or one better
suited for this application?
Anybody have experience wearing eyeglasses under one of these?
===============================================
I might have an old one laying around that you may have for free. I'll look
in the hangar next time I'm out there. There is enough room for eyeglasses
but you'll have to find the peel-offs.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 840hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerald Richardson <gerric(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | RV6/6A Fuel Tank Attachment |
Steve:
Wh en you get the page scanned, I would greatly appreciate a copy of it
also.
Please email me at HYPERLINK "mailto:gerric(at)shaw.ca"gerric(at)shaw.ca
Thank you for your time.
Gerald Richardson
RV-6A
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Allison
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 12:42
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6/6A Fuel Tank Attachment
John Fasching wrote:
In preparation for replacing my loose slosh fuel tanks I want to mount the
inboard forward bracket attachment the way Van now recommends it. My earlier
plans just had you bolt the angle from the fuselage to the angle from the
fuel tank tip.
How is the 'new' arrangement? Which angle bracket gets the 1/4-inch slot?
The tank one or the fuselage one?
Also which goes forward - the tank bracket or the fuselage bracket.? Which
bracket gets the platenut?
John,
1st issue 1998, p 11 shows:
* slot in the tank angle
* plate nut in the fuselage angle
* tank angle forward of the fuselage angle.
If you'd like, I can scan the page and e-mail it directly to you.
Steve
RV-6A
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navigat
or?RV-List
--
09:27
--
09:27
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glass for IFR |
| From: | "B25Flyer" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
I was "just passing thru" and saw this post and could not resist a comment.
I am now on my second Dynon IFR airplane. (RV-4 and F-1 EVO) I have flown over
500 hours behind Dynons with lots of actual including low approaches.
Here are my thoughts.
A steam gauge Altimeter, Airspeed Indicator & T/Coordinator are cheaper and a more
independent source of backup info than standby glass unit.
An autopilot is very important in an IFR RV. Both for Dynon failure and for keeping
the airplane rightside up when you are looking at charts.
If my Dynon ever fails, the autopilot will come on imeadiately.
If I was unwilling to fly in the clouds without the autopilot engaged, then I wouldn't
be flying in the clouds.
I keep an old Lowrance 500 in my "little oh $hit" bag along with a vice grip, screwdriver,
some Zip ties, a Mag light, some batteries, and some other goodies.
(sorry no handheld VHF. I won't have a spare hand to use it anyway)
A second EFIS might be a viable backup for the first, but I could fly to heck and
back with a T&B Alt, Airspeed, and handheld GPS.
My greatest fear in an all electric airplane is a lightning strike that fries
everything that is turned on. That would be a bad day. I don't have a good
answer for that. If the T&B and the Dynon both quit, I have a big problem.
But I can name several other scenarios that are more likely to cause just as
big a jamb.
My $.02
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100030#100030
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Williams" <mr.gsun+rv-list(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glass for IFR |
Good two cents.
I've got a Blue Mountain EFIS and a backup Dynon. No round gauges at all.
Although I'm a long way from my IFR rating, I hope it will work well enough
to get back home if it clouds up at the last minute.
Greg
On 3/11/07, B25Flyer wrote:
>
>
> I was "just passing thru" and saw this post and could not resist a
> comment.
>
> I am now on my second Dynon IFR airplane. (RV-4 and F-1 EVO) I have flown
> over 500 hours behind Dynons with lots of actual including low approaches.
>
> Here are my thoughts.
> A steam gauge Altimeter, Airspeed Indicator & T/Coordinator are cheaper
> and a more independent source of backup info than standby glass unit.
>
> An autopilot is very important in an IFR RV. Both for Dynon failure and
> for keeping the airplane rightside up when you are looking at charts.
>
> If my Dynon ever fails, the autopilot will come on imeadiately.
>
> If I was unwilling to fly in the clouds without the autopilot engaged,
> then I wouldn't be flying in the clouds.
>
> I keep an old Lowrance 500 in my "little oh $hit" bag along with a vice
> grip, screwdriver, some Zip ties, a Mag light, some batteries, and some
> other goodies. (sorry no handheld VHF. I won't have a spare hand to use it
> anyway)
>
> A second EFIS might be a viable backup for the first, but I could fly to
> heck and back with a T&B Alt, Airspeed, and handheld GPS.
>
> My greatest fear in an all electric airplane is a lightning strike that
> fries everything that is turned on. That would be a bad day. I don't
> have a good answer for that. If the T&B and the Dynon both quit, I have a
> big problem. But I can name several other scenarios that are more likely
> to cause just as big a jamb.
>
> My $.02
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100030#100030
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Langley Fly-in June 23 |
Tedd,
You might remind us U.S. residents that we will need a passport to get back
home if we are flying.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tedd McHenry
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 5:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Langley Fly-in June 23
The Langley, BC fly-in will be Saturday, June 23. This is the annual fly-in
of
the Western Canada Wing. Langley, BC, is about 20 nm north of Bellingham,
WA.
We generally have a good turnout of RVs from all over BC, and a good
contingent
from the U.S., too.
Details are on our web page,
http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/
For U.S. visitors, the Home Wing web page has all the information you need
on
border crossing procedures.
http://www.edt.com/homewing/international/
I hope lots of RV-Listers can make it.
---
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd(at)vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glass for IFR |
I agree with Doug on the autopilot. While I would not fly hard IFR
without one, I do sometimes fly IFR with the autopilot on and ready to
engage.
As for fear of lighting, after having installed XM Weather on my GRT
moving map overlays, I will no longer fly IFR without XM Weather to help
keep me clear of nasty things that produce lighting and thunderstorms.
Russ Daves
N710RV - (RV-10)
First Flight 7/28/06
N65RV - RV-6A Sold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
At the risk of opening an old wound what, if anything ever happened
to the tank pickup tube fix fuss that was hotly discussed a year or two ago?
I have the wings off of my 6A for a repair to one of them (hit bush
with leading edge) and recall the discussion. To gain access to tank
interior I removed only the sending unit. After checking my pickup
tube nuts and finding them tight after almost 500 hrs I am thinking
about applying a small dab of pro seal to the joint and avoiding the
really unpleasant task of removing the tank cover plates as well. I
am reasonably satisfied with this as a fix. Would appreciate the
thoughts of y'all out there. Those that did, and those that didn't,
and reasoning.
Thanks.
Dick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6/6A Fuel Tank Attachment |
I am in the same boat as John (my wings are off for painting), but I can't
remember the purpose of the platenut.
Dave Leonard
On 3/11/07, Gerald Richardson wrote:
>
> Steve:
>
>
> Wh en you get the page scanned, I would greatly appreciate a copy of it
> also.
>
> Please email me at gerric(at)shaw.ca
>
>
> Thank you for your time.
>
>
> Gerald Richardson
>
> RV-6A
>
>
> David Leonard
>
> Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
> My websites at:
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
> http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6/6A Fuel Tank Attachment |
On 12 Mar 2007, at 09:08, David Leonard wrote:
> I am in the same boat as John (my wings are off for painting), but
> I can't remember the purpose of the platenut.
>
Pictue the angle on the nose of the inboard tank rib is bolted to the
angle on the fuselage, with no slots in either angle. Now, imagine a
crash scenario where the wing leading edge hits something, and this
pushes the wing back. The nose of the tank rib is rigidly attached
to the fuselage, so there is a risk of the rib being pulled out of
the tank, releasing a large quantity of fuel, and leading to a fire.
This apparently happened on more than one accident, and led to a
design change.
The design change puts a slot in one of those angles. If the bolt is
not too tight, it will simply slide out the slot, and allow the wing
to be pushed back without pulling the fuel tank apart. This should
hopefully reduce the chance of a fuel tank breach, and reduce the
risk of a post-crash fire, which should improve survivability.
From a functionality point of view, it doesn't matter which angle
has the slot. My recollection is that for retrofits to existing
tanks, Van suggested to put the slot in the fuselage angle, as it can
be unbolted to make the mod. For new build tanks, Van suggested to
put the slot on the tank angle, as this was perceived to have some
advantage.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Full face mask for painting |
I got one from a guy selling a bunch of them on ebay back around the end of
November. I've emailed the seller and asked him if he has any more - will
let you know
You might also do a search on ebay and/or google
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Burton
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 7:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Full face mask for painting
I'm looking for a source of full face masks to be used for painting using
supplied fresh air. I've located a 3m mask designed for this application
which costs $120.00. I've also found one that I think will work from
McMaster-Carr for $75.00 and they have disposable clear lens protectors for
this mask. Any other suggestions for a lower cost alternative or one better
suited for this application?
Anybody have experience wearing eyeglasses under one of these?
Thanks,
Dave
--
8:41 AM
--
8:41 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Gottschalk <geneg(at)sled.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | RV6A Project for Sale |
I have a RV6A project for sale.
The Empanage is complete.
The Wings are complete except main skins on starboard wing.
The bottom of the fuselage is complete and ready to fit the gear and remove
from the jig.
I have finishing kit and everything to finish and fly except engine, prop,
and radios.
I have every option you can get from Vans.
I have many aftermarket goodies.
I will consider selling the tools too.
I'll sell the whole project for much less than of the cost of the parts alone.
Contact me back channel for a complete list if you're interested.
miranda(at)tartan30.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming's New Web Site |
Check out Lycoming's new web site!
http://www.lycoming.com/
ERic--
RV-10, 40014
N104EP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
>At the risk of opening an old wound what, if anything ever happened to the
>tank pickup tube fix fuss that was hotly discussed a year or two ago?
> Would appreciate the thoughts of y'all out there. Those that did, and
> those that didn't, and reasoning.
I did it. Both tanks, one had the flop tube, which was the hardest to
do. It took on average of 12 hours each tank. I know some reported that
it is a 45 min job per tank. But it took that long for me to drain the
tanks? When I figured the time, that includes getting the tools, supplies
and parts necessary to actually start the operation. I took off the tanks
to do it and it was still frustrating, I would not do it with the tanks
still on the aircraft (but messing up the paint job was not a concern of mine).
Also this is a good opportunity to induce a leak if you don't already have
one, or maybe to have some loose proseal end up in the fuel filter (ask me
how I know). The solution could be worse than the problem.
Ten years ago when I built my tanks, both the list and Vans
cautioned: follow the plans exactly as far as the fuel system is
concerned. I did and then a few years later Vans state, if you followed
the plans you did it wrong??!?
As you can see Vans will change their advice based upon circumstances and
not necessarily based upon good engineering data. I considered this fix a
real waste of time, unless of course, it is your fuel pickup that falls
off. This is a 15 minute fix while building the tanks and should be done
at that time.
This is a case much like the Lycoming oil pump. Some will argue that the
AD replacement was as bad or worse than the original. But those who had a
pump failure probably wished they had replaced them!
I offer no advice, it is your butt in the aircraft. Do what is right for you.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leland Collins" <federigo(at)pacbell.net> |
Basically, I had the same experience as Bob. Days to remove the tanks and to the
fix the problem on an RV9. My fuel tank access covers were gasketted and Prosealed
on. I carefully dried the tanks and used heat and prying to remove the
covers. Vacuumed Proseal residue from tanks. Even so, I have continued to get
a small amount of particulate when sampling the fuel drains, but only a very small
amount on the Gascolator screen. My pickup tubes were secure, but the flares
on the tubes were horribly scratched. My wings and tanks were Quickbuilds.
I bought Van's pre-drilled and "screened" pickup replacement tubes. The level
of scratching on the flares of the replacements was better but still unacceptable.
Leland
--------
Leland
RV9A
N137LC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100081#100081
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
Hey Guys,
Are there any other tail wheel links out there to look at or is the
Jantzi from Wayne Hadath the only one.
Thanks,
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tailgummer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tail wheel link |
Here's one: _http://www.rivethead-aero.com/default.htm_
(http://www.rivethead-aero.com/default.htm)
John D'Onofrio (_Tailgummer(at)aol.com_
(mailto:Tailgummer(at)aol.com) )
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Brown" <romott(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Cessna Lycoming Alternator |
While helping some folks who were stranded with a dead alternator on a
Saturday (when FAA certified folks didn't want to come out and help):
A helpful Orielly automotive parts guy helped us ID an alternator that
would replace the large 60 amp Cessna alternator. It is very similar to
an alternator that fits a 1971 Ford Pickup with 302 V-8 engine.
External regulator (try VR-600 or there is a new VR-301 low profile,
solid state regulator which will also work). The Orielly part number
for the alternator is 01-0147 - except this has a double pulley. The
parts guy quickly changed out the pulley and it works.
Looking at the NAPA listings, this alternator is used on a bunch of
Fords. They had a single groove pulley, 60 amp alternator listed
RAY2133014 which also should work.
Ronnie Brown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 First flight |
After 12 years of on and off construction, RV-4 N455J is officially a
flyable airplane. After receiving the airworthiness certificate this
morning, I performed a full power ground run on the engine just to make
sure it would develop adequate power and to see that there were no
issues with the fuel delivery system. A quick adjustment of the low
speed idle and another 15 gallons of 100LL (for a total of 20 gallons,
10 in each side) I was ready to go. At 1715 this afternoon I pulled onto
runway 18 at 17J (Donalsonville, GA) and applied full power. The
take-off roll was brisk but the airplane tracked straight. It broke
ground after a short ground run and climbed away at 1500 FPM. At 2000
feet I orbited the airport feeling out the controls and watching the oil
pressure. The left wing is slightly heavy and I hope to correct that
with a squeeze of the left aileron. Also, right rudder was required to
keep the ball centered. I may try to correct the rudder first before
squeezing the aileron, just to see how it affects the heavy wing. Stalls
were non events at less than 50 knots indicated. Oil pressure was to
high and I had to throttle back to keep it in limits. The oil pressure
relief is adjustable so that should be a simple fix. The most annoying
thing was a canopy buzz on the trailing end at high speed. How do you
stop that?
I would like to report that the first landing was a greaser but that
would not be so. After the third bounce I remembered to plant the main
gear on by raising the tail. Life was good after that. The 4 sure
handles better than my Cessna C140A on the ground and in the air. I
think I can get use to this airplane.
Thanks to Pierre Smith, Louisville, GA., for my transition training. I
was as prepared for this flight as any I have ever made.
Jerry Isler
Donalsonville, GA
RV-4 N455J - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6/6A Fuel Tank Attachment |
Thanks Kevin,
I understand the purpose of the slot, though to be honest I am still
hesitant to cut the slot. What if it changes the flutter characteristics or
allows some movement that wears over time etc... (I know, lots of planes
flying with that mod but it is a tough one to accept).
Anyway, my question is about the *platenut*. Even though Steve sent me the
copy of the plans from the original RVator, I still don't understand the
placement and/or purpose of the platenut. Is it a large platenut installed
on the washer? (the plans say "miniature platenut"). If so, why not use a
regular nut? Something about not letting the bolt get crooked when release
is needed?
Dave Leonard
On 3/12/07, Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
> On 12 Mar 2007, at 09:08, David Leonard wrote:
>
> > I am in the same boat as John (my wings are off for painting), but
> > I can't remember the purpose of the platenut.
> >
>
> Pictue the angle on the nose of the inboard tank rib is bolted to the
> angle on the fuselage, with no slots in either angle. Now, imagine a
> crash scenario where the wing leading edge hits something, and this
> pushes the wing back. The nose of the tank rib is rigidly attached
> to the fuselage, so there is a risk of the rib being pulled out of
> the tank, releasing a large quantity of fuel, and leading to a fire.
> This apparently happened on more than one accident, and led to a
> design change.
>
> The design change puts a slot in one of those angles. If the bolt is
> not too tight, it will simply slide out the slot, and allow the wing
> to be pushed back without pulling the fuel tank apart. This should
> hopefully reduce the chance of a fuel tank breach, and reduce the
> risk of a post-crash fire, which should improve survivability.
>
> From a functionality point of view, it doesn't matter which angle
> has the slot. My recollection is that for retrofits to existing
> tanks, Van suggested to put the slot in the fuselage angle, as it can
> be unbolted to make the mod. For new build tanks, Van suggested to
> put the slot on the tank angle, as this was perceived to have some
> advantage.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
My websites at:
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
http://leonardiniraq.blogspot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henry <aeroncadoc(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 First flight |
Congrats on your milestone. According to an article in the latest issue
of General Aviation News, the 5000th flying RV launched on Feb 14th in
San Antonio. Another first flight was recorded that day as well. So, you
must be number 5020 or something. Congrats again.
Henry H.
part time flyer of N72224 RV-6 KAWO
Jerry Isler wrote:
> After 12 years of on and off construction, RV-4 N455J is officially a
> flyable airplane. After receiving the airworthiness certificate this
> morning, I performed a full power ground run on the engine just to
> make sure it would develop adequate power and to see that there were
> no issues with the fuel delivery system. A quick adjustment of the low
> speed idle and another 15 gallons of 100LL (for a total of 20 gallons,
> 10 in each side) I was ready to go. At 1715 this afternoon I pulled
> onto runway 18 at 17J (Donalsonville, GA) and applied full power. The
> take-off roll was brisk but the airplane tracked straight. It broke
> ground after a short ground run and climbed away at 1500 FPM. At 2000
> feet I orbited the airport feeling out the controls and watching the
> oil pressure. The left wing is slightly heavy and I hope to correct
> that with a squeeze of the left aileron. Also, right rudder was
> required to keep the ball centered. I may try to correct the rudder
> first before squeezing the aileron, just to see how it affects the
> heavy wing. Stalls were non events at less than 50 knots indicated.
> Oil pressure was to high and I had to throttle back to keep it in
> limits. The oil pressure relief is adjustable so that should be a
> simple fix. The most annoying thing was a canopy buzz on the trailing
> end at high speed. How do you stop that?
>
> I would like to report that the first landing was a greaser but that
> would not be so. After the third bounce I remembered to plant the main
> gear on by raising the tail. Life was good after that. The 4 sure
> handles better than my Cessna C140A on the ground and in the air. I
> think I can get use to this airplane.
>
> Thanks to Pierre Smith, Louisville, GA., for my transition training. I
> was as prepared for this flight as any I have ever made.
>
> Jerry Isler
> Donalsonville, GA
> RV-4 N455J - Flying
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill shook <billshook2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 First flight |
You don't see as many -4's leaving the ground for the first time anymore. Congrats
on
your new bird! May she serve you faithfully and deliver you safely to any destination
you choose.
Bill
-4 wings
Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Lumpkin <tlump51(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 First flight |
Jerry,=0A=0A Congratulations on your successful flight. Regarding your
canopy buzz, I had the same problem. I solved it by installing rubber edgi
ng along the rear of the canopy skirt. I used a more rounded shape that I
found in the McMasterCarr catalog. This not only stopped the buzzing, but
also made the cockpit less drafty and gave the canopy a more solid feel whe
n closed.=0A=0ATed=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Jerry Isl
er =0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, March 1
2, 2007 8:12:48 PM=0ASubject: RV-List: RV-4 First flight=0A=0A=0AAfter 12 y
ears of on and off construction, RV-4 N455J is officially a flyable airplan
e. After receiving the airworthiness certificate this morning, I performed
a full power ground run on the engine just to make sure it would develop ad
equate power and to see that there were no issues with the fuel delivery sy
stem. A quick adjustment of the low speed idle and another 15 gallons of 10
0LL (for a total of 20 gallons, 10 in each side) I was ready to go. At 1715
this afternoon I pulled onto runway 18 at 17J (Donalsonville, GA) and appl
ied full power. The take-off roll was brisk but the airplane tracked straig
ht. It broke ground after a short ground run and climbed away at 1500 FPM.
At 2000 feet I orbited the airport feeling out the controls and watching th
e oil pressure. The left wing is slightly heavy and I hope to correct that
with a squeeze of the left aileron. Also, right rudder was required to keep
the ball centered. I may try to correct the rudder first before squeezing
the
aileron, just to see how it affects the heavy wing. Stalls were non events
at less than 50 knots indicated. Oil pressure was to high and I had to thr
ottle back to keep it in limits. The oil pressure relief is adjustable so t
hat should be a simple fix. The most annoying thing was a canopy buzz on th
e trailing end at high speed. How do you stop that? =0A=0AI would like to r
eport that the first landing was a greaser but that would not be so. After
the third bounce I remembered to plant the main gear on by raising the tail
. Life was good after that. The 4 sure handles better than my Cessna C140A
on the ground and in the air. I think I can get use to this airplane.=0A=0A
Thanks to Pierre Smith, Louisville, GA., for my transition training. I was
as prepared for this flight as any I have ever made.=0A=0AJerry Isler=0ADon
============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 First flight |
Congrats Jerry.
12 years is not bad for an old style kit. I have only build the tail of
mine since '99, but have completed a -7 and finishing a -10 at present.
Soon I'll purchase the rest of -4 and get started again. I'm sure it'll
be a shock to the system after the pre-punch stuff!
Happy Landings!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6/6A Fuel Tank Attachment |
Ah, now I understand. Yeah, it could be to keep the bolt square to
the angle if release is ever needed. If you just had a bolt, nut and
two washers, I can imagine that the bolt could tip sideways a bit and
bind, which would defeat the purpose of the mod.
The purpose of these pieces of angle appear to be to support the
weight of the front of the fuel, especially when pulling some g.
Adding the slot does not compromise that function. I see no way this
would affect flutter, nor would I expect much movement, and thus
there should be very little, if any wear. I don't see a downside,
other than the time required to do the mod.
Kevin
On 12 Mar 2007, at 23:34, David Leonard wrote:
> Thanks Kevin,
> I understand the purpose of the slot, though to be honest I am
> still hesitant to cut the slot. What if it changes the flutter
> characteristics or allows some movement that wears over time
> etc... (I know, lots of planes flying with that mod but it is a
> tough one to accept).
>
> Anyway, my question is about the platenut. Even though Steve sent
> me the copy of the plans from the original RVator, I still don't
> understand the placement and/or purpose of the platenut. Is it a
> large platenut installed on the washer? (the plans say "miniature
> platenut"). If so, why not use a regular nut? Something about not
> letting the bolt get crooked when release is needed?
>
> Dave Leonard
>
>
> On 3/12/07, Kevin Horton wrote: --> RV-List
> message posted by: Kevin Horton
>
> On 12 Mar 2007, at 09:08, David Leonard wrote:
>
> > I am in the same boat as John (my wings are off for painting), but
> > I can't remember the purpose of the platenut.
> >
>
> Pictue the angle on the nose of the inboard tank rib is bolted to the
> angle on the fuselage, with no slots in either angle. Now, imagine a
> crash scenario where the wing leading edge hits something, and this
> pushes the wing back. The nose of the tank rib is rigidly attached
> to the fuselage, so there is a risk of the rib being pulled out of
> the tank, releasing a large quantity of fuel, and leading to a fire.
> This apparently happened on more than one accident, and led to a
> design change.
>
> The design change puts a slot in one of those angles. If the bolt is
> not too tight, it will simply slide out the slot, and allow the wing
> to be pushed back without pulling the fuel tank apart. This should
> hopefully reduce the chance of a fuel tank breach, and reduce the
> risk of a post-crash fire, which should improve survivability.
>
> From a functionality point of view, it doesn't matter which angle
> has the slot. My recollection is that for retrofits to existing
> tanks, Van suggested to put the slot in the fuselage angle, as it can
> be unbolted to make the mod. For new build tanks, Van suggested to
> put the slot on the tank angle, as this was perceived to have some
> advantage.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 First flight |
On 12 Mar 2007, at 23:12, Jerry Isler wrote:
> After 12 years of on and off construction, RV-4 N455J is officially
> a flyable airplane. After receiving the airworthiness certificate
> this morning, I performed a full power ground run on the engine
> just to make sure it would develop adequate power and to see that
> there were no issues with the fuel delivery system. A quick
> adjustment of the low speed idle and another 15 gallons of 100LL
> (for a total of 20 gallons, 10 in each side) I was ready to go. At
> 1715 this afternoon I pulled onto runway 18 at 17J (Donalsonville,
> GA) and applied full power. The take-off roll was brisk but the
> airplane tracked straight. It broke ground after a short ground run
> and climbed away at 1500 FPM. At 2000 feet I orbited the airport
> feeling out the controls and watching the oil pressure. The left
> wing is slightly heavy and I hope to correct that with a squeeze of
> the left aileron. Also, right rudder was required to keep the ball
> centered. I may try to correct the rudder first before squeezing
> the aileron, just to see how it affects the heavy wing.
Yes, correct the rudder first. Then have a read of the info that Van
has published on heavy wings:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Heavy.pdf
Then, if all else fails, squeeze the aileron of the light wing - i.e.
the right wing.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
Leland and Bob, thanks for the input. I prosealed the flairnuts to
the clip angles yesterday. I am satisfied with the fix.
Dick
At 01:38 PM 3/12/2007, you wrote:
>
>Basically, I had the same experience as Bob. Days to remove the
>tanks and to the fix the problem on an RV9. My fuel tank access
>covers were gasketted and Prosealed on. I carefully dried the tanks
>and used heat and prying to remove the covers. Vacuumed Proseal
>residue from tanks. Even so, I have continued to get a small amount
>of particulate when sampling the fuel drains, but only a very small
>amount on the Gascolator screen. My pickup tubes were secure, but
>the flares on the tubes were horribly scratched. My wings and tanks
>were Quickbuilds. I bought Van's pre-drilled and "screened" pickup
>replacement tubes. The level of scratching on the flares of the
>replacements was better but still unacceptable.
>Leland
>
>--------
>Leland
>RV9A
>N137LC
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100081#100081
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 First flight |
Congratulations, Jerry. Enjoy your new pride and joy!!!!!
Richard Dudley
RV-6A flying
Jerry Isler wrote:
> After 12 years of on and off construction, RV-4 N455J is officially a
> flyable airplane. After receiving the airworthiness certificate this
> morning, I performed a full power ground run on the engine just to
> make sure it would develop adequate power and to see that there were
> no issues with the fuel delivery system. A quick adjustment of the low
> speed idle and another 15 gallons of 100LL (for a total of 20 gallons,
> 10 in each side) I was ready to go. At 1715 this afternoon I pulled
> onto runway 18 at 17J (Donalsonville, GA) and applied full power. The
> take-off roll was brisk but the airplane tracked straight. It broke
> ground after a short ground run and climbed away at 1500 FPM. At 2000
> feet I orbited the airport feeling out the controls and watching the
> oil pressure. The left wing is slightly heavy and I hope to correct
> that with a squeeze of the left aileron. Also, right rudder was
> required to keep the ball centered. I may try to correct the rudder
> first before squeezing the aileron, just to see how it affects the
> heavy wing. Stalls were non events at less than 50 knots indicated.
> Oil pressure was to high and I had to throttle back to keep it in
> limits. The oil pressure relief is adjustable so that should be a
> simple fix. The most annoying thing was a canopy buzz on the trailing
> end at high speed. How do you stop that?
>
> I would like to report that the first landing was a greaser but that
> would not be so. After the third bounce I remembered to plant the main
> gear on by raising the tail. Life was good after that. The 4 sure
> handles better than my Cessna C140A on the ground and in the air. I
> think I can get use to this airplane.
>
> Thanks to Pierre Smith, Louisville, GA., for my transition training. I
> was as prepared for this flight as any I have ever made.
>
> Jerry Isler
> Donalsonville, GA
> RV-4 N455J - Flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
VACUUMED? That thought crossed my mind, but then I thought of my shop vac
loading up with gasoline vapors. There are sparks in that motor, and some air
(fuel vapor!) is drawn up to cool it, at least that's how mine works.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 3/12/2007 12:45:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
federigo(at)pacbell.net writes:
Basically, I had the same experience as Bob. Days to remove the tanks and to
the fix the problem on an RV9. My fuel tank access covers were gasketted and
Prosealed on. I carefully dried the tanks and used heat and prying to remove
the covers. Vacuumed Proseal residue from tanks. Even so, I have continued to
get a small amount of particulate when sampling the fuel drains, but only a very
small amount on the Gascolator screen. My pickup tubes were secure, but the
flares on the tubes were horribly scratched. My wings and tanks were
Quickbuilds. I bought Van's pre-drilled and "screened" pickup replacement tubes.
The
level of scratching on the flares of the replacements was better but still
unacceptable.
Leland
--------
Leland
RV9A
N137LC
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Pleasants" <jpleasants(at)bellsouth.net> |
Dan, that's what makes homebuilding so exciting!
Jim Pleasants
Do not archieve
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Tank fix
>
>
> VACUUMED? That thought crossed my mind, but then I thought of my shop vac
> loading up with gasoline vapors. There are sparks in that motor, and some
air
> (fuel vapor!) is drawn up to cool it, at least that's how mine works.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Didn't I see that on Mythbusters.....?
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Pleasants <jpleasants(at)bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Mar 13, 2007 10:23 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Tank fix
>
>
>Dan, that's what makes homebuilding so exciting!
>
>Jim Pleasants
>
>Do not archieve
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 9:59 AM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Tank fix
>
>
>>
>>
>> VACUUMED? That thought crossed my mind, but then I thought of my shop vac
>> loading up with gasoline vapors. There are sparks in that motor, and some
>air
>> (fuel vapor!) is drawn up to cool it, at least that's how mine works.
>>
>> Dan Hopper
>> RV-7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I just got a quote for my "other" airplane from Travers & Assoc. The
quote was for considerably less than my current policy. Has anyone
had experience with this company? Do they also offer coverage for
Experimentals?
dave@RAL
7A -- the panel now lights up and the coms. work
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave McCoy" <jhelms(at)nationair.com> |
Dave-
Travers & Associates is a Broker not an insurance carrier. Typically all
brokers, get the same quotes form the underwriters if the same information
is given to them. The "broker" does not set the price the underwriter does.
To answer "Do they offer coverage for experimental?" Yes they can get
quotes on your RV, but they are the same quotes as your current agent can
get. Hope this helps clear some things up.
Regards,
David McCoy
Branch Manager
NationAir Aviation Insurance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Cudney
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 12:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:insurance
I just got a quote for my "other" airplane from Travers & Assoc. The
quote was for considerably less than my current policy. Has anyone
had experience with this company? Do they also offer coverage for
Experimentals?
dave@RAL
7A -- the panel now lights up and the coms. work
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
yes. They're quotes were cheaper by far than the others I called and my renewel
cost went down by a couple of hundred bucks this year on an experimental taildragger
RV8.
Definately give them a shot.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
>
>
> I just got a quote for my "other" airplane from Travers & Assoc. The
> quote was for considerably less than my current policy. Has anyone
> had experience with this company? Do they also offer coverage for
> Experimentals?
>
> dave@RAL
> 7A -- the panel now lights up and the coms. work
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
yes. They're quotes were cheaper by far than the others I called and
my renewel cost went down by a couple of hundred bucks this year on an experimental
taildragger RV8.
Definately give them a shot.
ge,
________________________________________________________________________________
I just got a quote for my Navion that is $300 less than last year. My agent
said a number of new underwriters have entered the field and all of them are
getting competitive again. My quote was from a new one. The Navion is/was a
hard aircraft to insure so maybe the competition will also carry over to
experimentals.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
>
> I just got a quote for my "other" airplane from Travers & Assoc. The
> quote was for considerably less than my current policy. Has anyone
> had experience with this company? Do they also offer coverage for
> Experimentals?
>
> dave@RAL
> 7A -- the panel now lights up and the coms. work
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | URL for this list? |
I think I read somewhere that this list is also available in an online
format, similar to Yahoo Groups (as opposed to getting it in my email).
But I don't see any link to it on the matronics site. Is there a URL for
the online discussion group?
Thanks,
brian
--
4:51 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: URL for this list? |
Brian Meyette wrote:
>
> I think I read somewhere that this list is also available in an online
> format, similar to Yahoo Groups (as opposed to getting it in my email).
> But I don't see any link to it on the matronics site. Is there a URL for
> the online discussion group?
> Thanks,
> brian
Check the links at the bottom of this and all list messages.
Sam Buchanan
====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bolton" <timbolton(at)therv7.com> |
| Subject: | Re: URL for this list? |
http://forums.matronics.com/
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
Tim Bolton
Charlotte, NC
www.TheRV7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 9:42 AM
Subject: RV-List: URL for this list?
I think I read somewhere that this list is also available in an online
format, similar to Yahoo Groups (as opposed to getting it in my email).
But I don't see any link to it on the matronics site. Is there a URL for
the online discussion group?
Thanks,
brian
--
4:51 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV8 Rudder Cable |
Looking for 1 unused rudder cable(F-852A) for a RV8. Cable dimensions
161.375". Van's sells them in sets only. Will pay half of the going rate or
whatever you feel its worth. New set from Van's is $77.45.
I botched one up when it fell into my rotary file while opening a hole.
Thanks,
Bruce G.
RV8 Fuse
_________________________________________________________________
Mortgage rates as low as 4.625% - Refinance $150,000 loan for $579 a month.
Intro*Terms
https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search=mortgage_text_links_88_h27f6&disc=y&vers=743&s=4056&p=5117
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Painting Questions and Advice |
| From: | "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com> |
First, a confession and apology; I haven't read any of the books or
watched any of the videos on painting, so my questions and observations
may be obvious to those that have.
I'm using PPG's Concept and a Devilbiss FinishLine HVLP conversion gun.
>From the start orange peel has been a problem. I kept increasing the
pressure, increasing paint volume, and slowing my sweeping motion.
Although orange peel was decreasing, I was using an enormous amount of
paint. When I got to the wings, I decided to switch back to a
conventional gun, NAPA's gravity feed. Results were much better. After
talking with a painter friend, I have a couple suspicions;
1) The fast (low temperature) reducer is too fast
2) The amount of reducer is too little
3) The air pressure at the cap is too low
I've been following PPG's recommended temperature range and recipe', but
the friend suggested using a slower (medium temperature) reducer and
doubling the amount of reducer. He also suggested increasing the
pressure, but I've already maxed out the pressure both at the compressor
and at the gun's regulator.
Question #1: For anyone that's used Concept paint, what is your opinion
about using more reducer and a slower reducer?
Question #2: Do you spray rivet lines first to help fill around the
rivet head?
Now to share some of my experiences:
Two 20" box fans force air into the booth, with "sticky" filters on the
inlet side of the fans. These filters are available individually at
paint stores.
I started with pleated air filters at the booth exit, but they have too
much resistance to airflow. I'm switching to the fiber type.
The personnel entrance should be close to the inlet fans so that it's
not a primary means of escape for paint fog.
After a couple paint sessions, paint dust collects on the paint booth
walls and floor. Lightly rinse the walls with a water hose and lay new
paper drop cloth on the floor. The water will also raise the humidity
and cause the paint to cure a little more slowly, which aids in it
"flowing out".
Wear a Tyvek paint suit with hood to minimize lint/dust contamination
from your clothes.
Handling all the solvents will dry out your hands very quickly (I know,
I should be using gloves, but it hassssssssssnnnnnnnn'ttttttt affected
me yet, hasn't affected me yet, hasn't affected me yet), and you'll be
using hand lotion. That hand lotion has a sneaky way of finding its way
onto parts to be painted. I suggest washing your hands with soap before
working with parts to be painted. A friend also found that RTV is
persistent.
Alumiprep has a tendency to collect on the bottom of treated parts and
drying there. You have to rinse the bottom of parts frequently until
they're ready to dry.
Even after Alumiprep, parts should be cleaned with a cleaning wipe,
dried with a clean cloth, and wiped with a tack cloth.
HVLP may be better suited to professionals.
Most big parts can be suspended from wires or sawhorses in a manner that
allows you to paint with each side in a horizontal position. This
reduces the chances of runs and sags. For example, I placed 3' sections
of 4" PVC pipe through each end of the wings and rested the pipes on
sawhorses. This allows the wings to rotate around pipes. Another piece
of 2" PVC placed in one end helps secure the wing in a horizontal
position. Paint one side, flip the wing over, paint the other side.
I've ready the recommendation to practice painting on paper. I don't
know if this would work, but the slippery side of "coated" making paper
might make a better test piece since it won't absorb the paint.
The first "tack" coat of paint should be shot from about 12", and
applied quickly to provide about 50% coverage. Wait 10 minutes, shoot
the rivet lines and edges lightly, then shoot the final coat at 6"-8"
and a little more slowly and more heavily. Make sure to overlap up to
50%.
Pinholes - I know a lot has been written already, but I thought I could
be successful with less work. WRONG! Sand the parts until there are no
shiny spots left. Using a Bondo-type squeegee, work SuperFil back and
forth quickly, like using a paint brush, then scrape the squeegee
backwards to remove excess. The pinholes will have blue SuperFil in
them and will be easy to see. Let cure overnight, then lightly sand
entire piece, making sure not to remove the blue SuperFil from the
pinholes. Prime several filled parts with the same primer you're using
for your painting. After the primer cures, look closely for pinholes.
If any pinholes remain, fill with "glazing/spot putty" available from
auto parts stores. This putty is like a thinned Bondo and works into
the pinholes with the same squeegee. In 15 minutes it's ready to sand,
clean, and reprime. This method sounds like a lot of work, but it's
effective and doesn't take a lot of elbow grease.
Striping - Chances are that your paint will go on a little thicker than
the manufacturer recommends. Wait a little longer to use fine line tape
for stripes, or you may get tape tracks that have to be buffed out.
Ask the paint store for paint spec sheets, or locate and print them off
the internet, for the specific primer and paint that you'll be using.
Depending on the answers to my questions above, you may want to increase
the amount of reducer, and go with a reducer that is for a temperature
range higher than what you'll be working in.
Three good reasons to go with white; Red paint can cost twice as much as
white paint, dark colors show mistakes more easily, and dark colors
absorb a lot of energy from the sun.
My investment:
Paint booth - $250 (plastic, drop cloths, sawhorses, fans, filters,
door, and duct tape)
Supplies - $100 (masking tape, coated masking paper, fine line tape,
coveralls, wipes, tack cloths, etc.)
Paint - $1400 (1 gallon corrosion resistant primer, 2-3 gallons paint,
reducer, hardener, cleaner)
I'll be happy to provide more detailed information if anyone has
questions. Again, this may all be covered in the books that I haven't
read, and if so, I apologize. Questions can be posted on this site or
to my direct email address.
Happy painting!
Daniel Snow
RV-9A, Painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wlpmap(at)insightbb.com |
| Subject: | RV tools For Sale |
Due to two new mouths to feed, I am going to have to put my RV build on hold.
I have for sale a RV tool kit from Avery's, with numerous upgrades, plus some shop
tools.
Please email for details. wlpmap(at)insightbb.com
Thank you.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting Questions and Advice |
I went to the PPG paint school a few years ago,and that paint and gun has
flow rates
and pressures for that exact paint and gun..Meaning that if you look at
Devilbiss web site it will give you what tip and pressure AT THE GUN to
use..Also your PPG dealer
may have a tip pressure gauge to use for that gun that will nail the perfect
pressure
that you will need to do a great job..Just remember to use a large enough
hose 3/8
because smaller will get you in trouble,don't ask me how because it
hurts!!Always use
the correct temp range reducer AT THAT TIME..Practice on something first
like
a old car hood etc first....
Good luck
John McMahon (RV6 C/S )
----- Original Message -----
From: "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: Painting Questions and Advice
>
> First, a confession and apology; I haven't read any of the books or
> watched any of the videos on painting, so my questions and observations
> may be obvious to those that have.
>
> I'm using PPG's Concept and a Devilbiss FinishLine HVLP conversion gun.
>>From the start orange peel has been a problem. I kept increasing the
> pressure, increasing paint volume, and slowing my sweeping motion.
> Although orange peel was decreasing, I was using an enormous amount of
> paint. When I got to the wings, I decided to switch back to a
> conventional gun, NAPA's gravity feed. Results were much better. After
> talking with a painter friend, I have a couple suspicions;
> 1) The fast (low temperature) reducer is too fast
> 2) The amount of reducer is too little
> 3) The air pressure at the cap is too low
> I've been following PPG's recommended temperature range and recipe', but
> the friend suggested using a slower (medium temperature) reducer and
> doubling the amount of reducer. He also suggested increasing the
> pressure, but I've already maxed out the pressure both at the compressor
> and at the gun's regulator.
>
> Question #1: For anyone that's used Concept paint, what is your opinion
> about using more reducer and a slower reducer?
>
> Question #2: Do you spray rivet lines first to help fill around the
> rivet head?
>
>
> Now to share some of my experiences:
>
> Two 20" box fans force air into the booth, with "sticky" filters on the
> inlet side of the fans. These filters are available individually at
> paint stores.
>
> I started with pleated air filters at the booth exit, but they have too
> much resistance to airflow. I'm switching to the fiber type.
>
> The personnel entrance should be close to the inlet fans so that it's
> not a primary means of escape for paint fog.
>
> After a couple paint sessions, paint dust collects on the paint booth
> walls and floor. Lightly rinse the walls with a water hose and lay new
> paper drop cloth on the floor. The water will also raise the humidity
> and cause the paint to cure a little more slowly, which aids in it
> "flowing out".
>
> Wear a Tyvek paint suit with hood to minimize lint/dust contamination
> from your clothes.
>
> Handling all the solvents will dry out your hands very quickly (I know,
> I should be using gloves, but it hassssssssssnnnnnnnn'ttttttt affected
> me yet, hasn't affected me yet, hasn't affected me yet), and you'll be
> using hand lotion. That hand lotion has a sneaky way of finding its way
> onto parts to be painted. I suggest washing your hands with soap before
> working with parts to be painted. A friend also found that RTV is
> persistent.
>
> Alumiprep has a tendency to collect on the bottom of treated parts and
> drying there. You have to rinse the bottom of parts frequently until
> they're ready to dry.
>
> Even after Alumiprep, parts should be cleaned with a cleaning wipe,
> dried with a clean cloth, and wiped with a tack cloth.
>
> HVLP may be better suited to professionals.
>
> Most big parts can be suspended from wires or sawhorses in a manner that
> allows you to paint with each side in a horizontal position. This
> reduces the chances of runs and sags. For example, I placed 3' sections
> of 4" PVC pipe through each end of the wings and rested the pipes on
> sawhorses. This allows the wings to rotate around pipes. Another piece
> of 2" PVC placed in one end helps secure the wing in a horizontal
> position. Paint one side, flip the wing over, paint the other side.
>
> I've ready the recommendation to practice painting on paper. I don't
> know if this would work, but the slippery side of "coated" making paper
> might make a better test piece since it won't absorb the paint.
>
> The first "tack" coat of paint should be shot from about 12", and
> applied quickly to provide about 50% coverage. Wait 10 minutes, shoot
> the rivet lines and edges lightly, then shoot the final coat at 6"-8"
> and a little more slowly and more heavily. Make sure to overlap up to
> 50%.
>
> Pinholes - I know a lot has been written already, but I thought I could
> be successful with less work. WRONG! Sand the parts until there are no
> shiny spots left. Using a Bondo-type squeegee, work SuperFil back and
> forth quickly, like using a paint brush, then scrape the squeegee
> backwards to remove excess. The pinholes will have blue SuperFil in
> them and will be easy to see. Let cure overnight, then lightly sand
> entire piece, making sure not to remove the blue SuperFil from the
> pinholes. Prime several filled parts with the same primer you're using
> for your painting. After the primer cures, look closely for pinholes.
> If any pinholes remain, fill with "glazing/spot putty" available from
> auto parts stores. This putty is like a thinned Bondo and works into
> the pinholes with the same squeegee. In 15 minutes it's ready to sand,
> clean, and reprime. This method sounds like a lot of work, but it's
> effective and doesn't take a lot of elbow grease.
>
> Striping - Chances are that your paint will go on a little thicker than
> the manufacturer recommends. Wait a little longer to use fine line tape
> for stripes, or you may get tape tracks that have to be buffed out.
>
> Ask the paint store for paint spec sheets, or locate and print them off
> the internet, for the specific primer and paint that you'll be using.
> Depending on the answers to my questions above, you may want to increase
> the amount of reducer, and go with a reducer that is for a temperature
> range higher than what you'll be working in.
>
> Three good reasons to go with white; Red paint can cost twice as much as
> white paint, dark colors show mistakes more easily, and dark colors
> absorb a lot of energy from the sun.
>
>
> My investment:
> Paint booth - $250 (plastic, drop cloths, sawhorses, fans, filters,
> door, and duct tape)
> Supplies - $100 (masking tape, coated masking paper, fine line tape,
> coveralls, wipes, tack cloths, etc.)
> Paint - $1400 (1 gallon corrosion resistant primer, 2-3 gallons paint,
> reducer, hardener, cleaner)
>
>
> I'll be happy to provide more detailed information if anyone has
> questions. Again, this may all be covered in the books that I haven't
> read, and if so, I apologize. Questions can be posted on this site or
> to my direct email address.
>
> Happy painting!
>
> Daniel Snow
> RV-9A, Painting
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting Questions and Advice |
Snow, Daniel A. wrote:
>
> First, a confession and apology; I haven't read any of the books or
> watched any of the videos on painting, so my questions and observations
> may be obvious to those that have.
>
> I'm using PPG's Concept and a Devilbiss FinishLine HVLP conversion gun.
> >From the start orange peel has been a problem. I kept increasing the
> pressure, increasing paint volume, and slowing my sweeping motion.
> Although orange peel was decreasing, I was using an enormous amount of
> paint. When I got to the wings, I decided to switch back to a
> conventional gun, NAPA's gravity feed. Results were much better. After
> talking with a painter friend, I have a couple suspicions;
> 1) The fast (low temperature) reducer is too fast
> 2) The amount of reducer is too little
> 3) The air pressure at the cap is too low
> I've been following PPG's recommended temperature range and recipe', but
> the friend suggested using a slower (medium temperature) reducer and
> doubling the amount of reducer. He also suggested increasing the
> pressure, but I've already maxed out the pressure both at the compressor
> and at the gun's regulator.
>
> Question #1: For anyone that's used Concept paint, what is your opinion
> about using more reducer and a slower reducer?
>
> Question #2: Do you spray rivet lines first to help fill around the
> rivet head?
>
>
> Now to share some of my experiences:
>
> Two 20" box fans force air into the booth, with "sticky" filters on the
> inlet side of the fans. These filters are available individually at
> paint stores.
>
> I started with pleated air filters at the booth exit, but they have too
> much resistance to airflow. I'm switching to the fiber type.
>
> The personnel entrance should be close to the inlet fans so that it's
> not a primary means of escape for paint fog.
>
> After a couple paint sessions, paint dust collects on the paint booth
> walls and floor. Lightly rinse the walls with a water hose and lay new
> paper drop cloth on the floor. The water will also raise the humidity
> and cause the paint to cure a little more slowly, which aids in it
> "flowing out".
>
> Wear a Tyvek paint suit with hood to minimize lint/dust contamination
> from your clothes.
>
> Handling all the solvents will dry out your hands very quickly (I know,
> I should be using gloves, but it hassssssssssnnnnnnnn'ttttttt affected
> me yet, hasn't affected me yet, hasn't affected me yet), and you'll be
> using hand lotion. That hand lotion has a sneaky way of finding its way
> onto parts to be painted. I suggest washing your hands with soap before
> working with parts to be painted. A friend also found that RTV is
> persistent.
>
> Alumiprep has a tendency to collect on the bottom of treated parts and
> drying there. You have to rinse the bottom of parts frequently until
> they're ready to dry.
>
> Even after Alumiprep, parts should be cleaned with a cleaning wipe,
> dried with a clean cloth, and wiped with a tack cloth.
>
> HVLP may be better suited to professionals.
>
> Most big parts can be suspended from wires or sawhorses in a manner that
> allows you to paint with each side in a horizontal position. This
> reduces the chances of runs and sags. For example, I placed 3' sections
> of 4" PVC pipe through each end of the wings and rested the pipes on
> sawhorses. This allows the wings to rotate around pipes. Another piece
> of 2" PVC placed in one end helps secure the wing in a horizontal
> position. Paint one side, flip the wing over, paint the other side.
>
> I've ready the recommendation to practice painting on paper. I don't
> know if this would work, but the slippery side of "coated" making paper
> might make a better test piece since it won't absorb the paint.
>
> The first "tack" coat of paint should be shot from about 12", and
> applied quickly to provide about 50% coverage. Wait 10 minutes, shoot
> the rivet lines and edges lightly, then shoot the final coat at 6"-8"
> and a little more slowly and more heavily. Make sure to overlap up to
> 50%.
>
> Pinholes - I know a lot has been written already, but I thought I could
> be successful with less work. WRONG! Sand the parts until there are no
> shiny spots left. Using a Bondo-type squeegee, work SuperFil back and
> forth quickly, like using a paint brush, then scrape the squeegee
> backwards to remove excess. The pinholes will have blue SuperFil in
> them and will be easy to see. Let cure overnight, then lightly sand
> entire piece, making sure not to remove the blue SuperFil from the
> pinholes. Prime several filled parts with the same primer you're using
> for your painting. After the primer cures, look closely for pinholes.
> If any pinholes remain, fill with "glazing/spot putty" available from
> auto parts stores. This putty is like a thinned Bondo and works into
> the pinholes with the same squeegee. In 15 minutes it's ready to sand,
> clean, and reprime. This method sounds like a lot of work, but it's
> effective and doesn't take a lot of elbow grease.
>
> Striping - Chances are that your paint will go on a little thicker than
> the manufacturer recommends. Wait a little longer to use fine line tape
> for stripes, or you may get tape tracks that have to be buffed out.
>
> Ask the paint store for paint spec sheets, or locate and print them off
> the internet, for the specific primer and paint that you'll be using.
> Depending on the answers to my questions above, you may want to increase
> the amount of reducer, and go with a reducer that is for a temperature
> range higher than what you'll be working in.
>
> Three good reasons to go with white; Red paint can cost twice as much as
> white paint, dark colors show mistakes more easily, and dark colors
> absorb a lot of energy from the sun.
>
>
> My investment:
> Paint booth - $250 (plastic, drop cloths, sawhorses, fans, filters,
> door, and duct tape)
> Supplies - $100 (masking tape, coated masking paper, fine line tape,
> coveralls, wipes, tack cloths, etc.)
> Paint - $1400 (1 gallon corrosion resistant primer, 2-3 gallons paint,
> reducer, hardener, cleaner)
>
>
> I'll be happy to provide more detailed information if anyone has
> questions. Again, this may all be covered in the books that I haven't
> read, and if so, I apologize. Questions can be posted on this site or
> to my direct email address.
>
> Happy painting!
>
> Daniel Snow
>
I painted an RV-8 with the same paint and gun that you are using.
With just a couple of changes in your procedures you will love the
Concept/DeVilbiss FinishLine gun combination as much as I do. First you
want to get a 1.3mm tip. My gun came with 1.5, 1.8 and 2.2mm tips.
Don't screw around with this, get the 1.3mm tip. the next thing is you
want to run with a little higher pressure at the gun. Mine usually runs
around 38+ psi at the gun. Make sure you have a centrifugal filter at
the gun. Now the secret to using Concept is how you thin it. I have
had great success thinning it just like lacquer. This is a sight/feel
thing not a measure thing. First measure your paint and thinner using
your ratio paint cup. Add your paint and the amount of thinner
recommended on the can. This is just the starting point. You are going
to add probably about 20% to 30% more thinner. BUT, you are not going
to measure it you are going to add small amounts of thiner and watch how
the paint flows off of the end of the mixing stick. Mixed to the ratio
printed on the can you will see the paint flow off of the stick in an
unbroken stream. We want to keep adding thinner until the paint
transitions into dropping in droplets rather than a smooth flow. If you
are going to err, err on the side of more thinner rather than less.
You are going to have to develop the technique of handling the gun
during the spraying process. If you mix the paint like I described
above and you are using the reducer recommended by the paint store for
your local conditions you can easily get beautiful results. It sure
sounds like you are getting way too much paint. I also really like the
plastic baggies in the paint cup. This frees you up so you can spray
with the gun upside down and not worry about paint dripping.
I am sure you will get as many suggestions as there are painters. This
is just what has worked for me.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A, O-360-A1A, Catto 3 blade, working on finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "n801bh(at)netzero.com" <n801bh(at)netzero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting Questions and Advice |
I am not a professional painter and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Expre
ss last night either. I have painted my street rods, boats and god o
nly knows what other stuff I have spiffed up in the past. Your approach
is sound and well thought out. Painting is like flying, driving a race c
ar or any other highly demanding activity. There is not substitute for "
seat time".. As alot of us that have painted our kit planes know by now,
there is a VERY fine line between getting a slick finish with very li
ttle orange peel and creating that dreaded ,,, RUN .. I am curious thoug
h, with the product your are spraying,, How long do you wait for the pai
nt to cure till you tape off for stripes???
Thanks in advance..
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Snow, Daniel A." wrote:
>
First, a confession and apology; I haven't read any of the books or
watched any of the videos on painting, so my questions and observations
may be obvious to those that have.
I'm using PPG's Concept and a Devilbiss FinishLine HVLP conversion gun.
>From the start orange peel has been a problem. I kept increasing the
pressure, increasing paint volume, and slowing my sweeping motion.
Although orange peel was decreasing, I was using an enormous amount of
paint. When I got to the wings, I decided to switch back to a
conventional gun, NAPA's gravity feed. Results were much better. After
talking with a painter friend, I have a couple suspicions;
1) The fast (low temperature) reducer is too fast
2) The amount of reducer is too little
3) The air pressure at the cap is too low
I've been following PPG's recommended temperature range and recipe', but
the friend suggested using a slower (medium temperature) reducer and
doubling the amount of reducer. He also suggested increasing the
pressure, but I've already maxed out the pressure both at the compressor
and at the gun's regulator.
Question #1: For anyone that's used Concept paint, what is your opinion
about using more reducer and a slower reducer?
Question #2: Do you spray rivet lines first to help fill around the
rivet head?
Now to share some of my experiences:
Two 20" box fans force air into the booth, with "sticky" filters on the
inlet side of the fans. These filters are available individually at
paint stores.
I started with pleated air filters at the booth exit, but they have too
much resistance to airflow. I'm switching to the fiber type.
The personnel entrance should be close to the inlet fans so that it's
not a primary means of escape for paint fog.
After a couple paint sessions, paint dust collects on the paint booth
walls and floor. Lightly rinse the walls with a water hose and lay new
paper drop cloth on the floor. The water will also raise the humidity
and cause the paint to cure a little more slowly, which aids in it
"flowing out".
Wear a Tyvek paint suit with hood to minimize lint/dust contamination
from your clothes.
Handling all the solvents will dry out your hands very quickly (I know,
I should be using gloves, but it hassssssssssnnnnnnnn'ttttttt affected
me yet, hasn't affected me yet, hasn't affected me yet), and you'll be
using hand lotion. That hand lotion has a sneaky way of finding its way
onto parts to be painted. I suggest washing your hands with soap before
working with parts to be painted. A friend also found that RTV is
persistent.
Alumiprep has a tendency to collect on the bottom of treated parts and
drying there. You have to rinse the bottom of parts frequently until
they're ready to dry.
Even after Alumiprep, parts should be cleaned with a cleaning wipe,
dried with a clean cloth, and wiped with a tack cloth.
HVLP may be better suited to professionals.
Most big parts can be suspended from wires or sawhorses in a manner that
allows you to paint with each side in a horizontal position. This
reduces the chances of runs and sags. For example, I placed 3' sections
of 4" PVC pipe through each end of the wings and rested the pipes on
sawhorses. This allows the wings to rotate around pipes. Another piece
of 2" PVC placed in one end helps secure the wing in a horizontal
position. Paint one side, flip the wing over, paint the other side.
I've ready the recommendation to practice painting on paper. I don't
know if this would work, but the slippery side of "coated" making paper
might make a better test piece since it won't absorb the paint.
The first "tack" coat of paint should be shot from about 12", and
applied quickly to provide about 50% coverage. Wait 10 minutes, shoot
the rivet lines and edges lightly, then shoot the final coat at 6"-8"
and a little more slowly and more heavily. Make sure to overlap up to
50%.
Pinholes - I know a lot has been written already, but I thought I could
be successful with less work. WRONG! Sand the parts until there are no
shiny spots left. Using a Bondo-type squeegee, work SuperFil back and
forth quickly, like using a paint brush, then scrape the squeegee
backwards to remove excess. The pinholes will have blue SuperFil in
them and will be easy to see. Let cure overnight, then lightly sand
entire piece, making sure not to remove the blue SuperFil from the
pinholes. Prime several filled parts with the same primer you're using
for your painting. After the primer cures, look closely for pinholes.
If any pinholes remain, fill with "glazing/spot putty" available from
auto parts stores. This putty is like a thinned Bondo and works into
the pinholes with the same squeegee. In 15 minutes it's ready to sand,
clean, and reprime. This method sounds like a lot of work, but it's
effective and doesn't take a lot of elbow grease.
Striping - Chances are that your paint will go on a little thicker than
the manufacturer recommends. Wait a little longer to use fine line tape
for stripes, or you may get tape tracks that have to be buffed out.
Ask the paint store for paint spec sheets, or locate and print them off
the internet, for the specific primer and paint that you'll be using.
Depending on the answers to my questions above, you may want to increase
the amount of reducer, and go with a reducer that is for a temperature
range higher than what you'll be working in.
Three good reasons to go with white; Red paint can cost twice as much as
white paint, dark colors show mistakes more easily, and dark colors
absorb a lot of energy from the sun.
My investment:
Paint booth - $250 (plastic, drop cloths, sawhorses, fans, filters,
door, and duct tape)
Supplies - $100 (masking tape, coated masking paper, fine line tape,
coveralls, wipes, tack cloths, etc.)
Paint - $1400 (1 gallon corrosion resistant primer, 2-3 gallons paint,
reducer, hardener, cleaner)
I'll be happy to provide more detailed information if anyone has
questions. Again, this may all be covered in the books that I haven't
read, and if so, I apologize. Questions can be posted on this site or
to my direct email address.
Happy painting!
Daniel Snow
RV-9A, Painting
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
I am not a professional painter and I didn't stay at a Holiday
Inn Express last night either. <G> I have painted my street rods,
boats and god only knows what other stuff I have spiffed up in the past.
Your approach is sound and well thought out. Painting is like flying, d
riving a race car or any other highly demanding activity. There is not s
ubstitute for "seat time".. As alot of us that have painted our kit plan
es know by now, there is a VERY fine line between getting a slick
finish with very little orange peel and creating that dreaded ,,,
RUN .. I am curious though, with the product your are spraying,, Ho
w long do you wait for the paint to cure till you tape off for stri
pes???
Thanks in advance..
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspow
erair.com
-- "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Sno
w(at)wancdf.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message po
sted by: "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow@wanc
df.com>
First, a confession and apology;&n
bsp; I haven't read any of the books&
nbsp;or
watched any of the videos on pa
inting, so my questions and observations
may
be obvious to those that have.
I'm
using PPG's Concept and a Devilbiss
FinishLine HVLP conversion gun.
>From the
;start orange peel has been a problem.&nbs
p; I kept increasing the
pressure, increasin
g paint volume, and slowing my sweeping&nb
sp;motion.
Although orange peel was decreasing,&n
bsp;I was using an enormous amount of
p
aint. When I got to the wings,
I decided to switch back to a
conventio
nal gun, NAPA's gravity feed. Results&nbs
p;were much better. After
talking with
;a painter friend, I have a couple su
spicions;
1) The fast (low temperature)&nbs
p;reducer is too fast
2) The amount&nb
sp;of reducer is too little
3) The&nbs
p;air pressure at the cap is too low<
BR>I've been following PPG's recommended temper
ature range and recipe', but
the friend
;suggested using a slower (medium temperature)&
nbsp;reducer and
doubling the amount of redu
cer. He also suggested increasing the
pressure, but I've already maxed out the&n
bsp;pressure both at the compressor
and at&n
bsp;the gun's regulator.
Question #1: F
or anyone that's used Concept paint, what&
nbsp;is your opinion
about using more reduce
r and a slower reducer?
Question #2:&nbs
p; Do you spray rivet lines first to&
nbsp;help fill around the
rivet head?
Now to share some of my experiences:
Two 20" box fans force air into the
booth, with "sticky" filters on the
in
let side of the fans. These filters&
nbsp;are available individually at
paint stores.<
BR>
I started with pleated air filters
at the booth exit, but they have too<
BR>much resistance to airflow. I'm switch
ing to the fiber type.
The personnel&nbs
p;entrance should be close to the inlet&nb
sp;fans so that it's
not a primary mean
s of escape for paint fog.
After a&
nbsp;couple paint sessions, paint dust collects
on the paint booth
walls and floor.&nb
sp; Lightly rinse the walls with a wa
ter hose and lay new
paper drop cloth&n
bsp;on the floor. The water will als
o raise the humidity
and cause the pain
t to cure a little more slowly, which
aids in it
"flowing out".
Wear a&nbs
p;Tyvek paint suit with hood to minimize&n
bsp;lint/dust contamination
from your clothes.
Handling all the solvents will dry out&nbs
p;your hands very quickly (I know,
I sh
ould be using gloves, but it hassssssssssn
nnnnnnn'ttttttt affected
me yet, hasn't affected&
nbsp;me yet, hasn't affected me yet), and&
nbsp;you'll be
using hand lotion. That
;hand lotion has a sneaky way of find
ing its way
onto parts to be painted.&n
bsp; I suggest washing your hands with&nbs
p;soap before
working with parts to be
painted. A friend also found that RT
V is
persistent.
Alumiprep has a tendency&
nbsp;to collect on the bottom of treated&n
bsp;parts and
drying there. You have t
o rinse the bottom of parts frequently&nbs
p;until
they're ready to dry.
Even after&n
bsp;Alumiprep, parts should be cleaned with&nbs
p;a cleaning wipe,
dried with a clean c
loth, and wiped with a tack cloth.
HVLP may be better suited to professionals
.
Most big parts can be suspended f
rom wires or sawhorses in a manner th
at
allows you to paint with each side&n
bsp;in a horizontal position. This
reduces&
nbsp;the chances of runs and sags. F
or example, I placed 3' sections
of 4"&
nbsp;PVC pipe through each end of the
;wings and rested the pipes on
sawhorses.&nb
sp; This allows the wings to rotate a
round pipes. Another piece
of 2" PVC&n
bsp;placed in one end helps secure the&nbs
p;wing in a horizontal
position. Paint
;one side, flip the wing over, paint
the other side.
I've ready the recommend
ation to practice painting on paper.
;I don't
know if this would work, but&n
bsp;the slippery side of "coated" making p
aper
might make a better test piece sin
ce it won't absorb the paint.
The f
irst "tack" coat of paint should be s
hot from about 12", and
applied quickly
;to provide about 50% coverage. Wait
;10 minutes, shoot
the rivet lines and
edges lightly, then shoot the final coat&n
bsp;at 6"-8"
and a little more slowly a
nd more heavily. Make sure to overla
p up to
50%.
Pinholes - I know a
lot has been written already, but I&
nbsp;thought I could
be successful with less
work. WRONG! Sand the parts u
ntil there are no
shiny spots left. &nb
sp;Using a Bondo-type squeegee, work SuperFil&n
bsp;back and
forth quickly, like using a&nbs
p;paint brush, then scrape the squeegee
back
wards to remove excess. The pinholes
;will have blue SuperFil in
them and wi
ll be easy to see. Let cure ove
rnight, then lightly sand
entire piece, maki
ng sure not to remove the blue SuperF
il from the
pinholes. Prime several fi
lled parts with the same primer you're&nbs
p;using
for your painting. After the p
rimer cures, look closely for pinholes.
If&n
bsp;any pinholes remain, fill with "glazing/spo
t putty" available from
auto parts stores.&n
bsp; This putty is like a thinned Bon
do and works into
the pinholes with the
same squeegee. In 15 minutes it's&n
bsp;ready to sand,
clean, and reprime.
;This method sounds like a lot of wor
k, but it's
effective and doesn't take
a lot of elbow grease.
Striping - C
hances are that your paint will go on
a little thicker than
the manufacturer
;recommends. Wait a little longer to
;use fine line tape
for stripes, or you
may get tape tracks that have to&nbs
p;be buffed out.
Ask the paint store&nbs
p;for paint spec sheets, or locate and&nbs
p;print them off
the internet, for the
specific primer and paint that you'll be&n
bsp;using.
Depending on the answers to my&nb
sp;questions above, you may want to increa
se
the amount of reducer, and go with&n
bsp;a reducer that is for a temperature
range higher than what you'll be working&
nbsp;in.
Three good reasons to go with&n
bsp;white; Red paint can cost twice as&nbs
p;much as
white paint, dark colors show
;mistakes more easily, and dark colors
absor
b a lot of energy from the sun.
My investment:
Paint booth - $250 (pla
stic, drop cloths, sawhorses, fans, filters,
door, and duct tape)
Supplies - $100 (
masking tape, coated masking paper, fine l
ine tape,
coveralls, wipes, tack cloths, etc
.)
Paint - $1400 (1 gallon corrosion re
sistant primer, 2-3 gallons paint,
reducer,
hardener, cleaner)
I'll be happy to
provide more detailed information if anyone&nbs
p;has
questions. Again, this may all b
e covered in the books that I haven't
read, and if so, I apologize. Qu
estions can be posted on this site or
to my direct email address.
Happy pa
========================
========================
- The RV-List Email Fo
;List utilities such as the Subscriptions
========================
========================
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