RV-Archive.digest.vol-sv

June 03, 2007 - June 22, 2007



From: Larry Bowen <mailto:Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: Garmin 196 help
You can "follow" the arrow and still be left/right of course. Are the top middle and bottom of the arrow all aligned? Or is the center section of the arrow off to the left (for example) -- showing you are right of the direct course? -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com On 6/3/07, SteinAir, Inc. wrote: Hi Andy, I'm not really sure which "arrow" you're referring to? is it the HSI/DG page? I've been using my old 196 for years and it's been super accurate the whole time (even driving my autopilot). The other question is why don't you use the map page? If you put in a "Direct To" to where you're going you just follow the line....no "arrow" to worry about?!?! Cheers, Stein. -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Gold Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 2:31 PM Subject: RV-List: Garmin 196 help I just installed a Garmin 196 in place of my old Garmin 90. I liked the 90. It did everything I wanted it to do perfectly and simply for day VFR navigation. Just enter where you want to go and follow the arrow and it always took me right over the center of the destination airport. (I never used the map page) The only reason I gave it up was because the database was 5-6 years old and I couldn't get an update. So, I bought a 196. With all the raving about it here and on other web sites, I looked forward to seeing how great it really was. (for what I use it for I couldn't imagine how it could be any better, but at least its updated with the new maps and AFDs) Bottom line is the 196 has a really bad quirk that I don't like at all, enough that if I can't find a solution I'm going to pull it out and reinstall the relic 90. Following the arrow to a destination works great from a distance, but when I get within about 10-15 miles from the destination the arrow starts to skew over one way or the other. In other words the arrow says that the destination is 30 degrees over to the right, but I know the airport is straight ahead over the ridge. As I get closer, this displacement gets worse and worse. If I pass the airport the 196 does no correct. It keeps telling me to go straight or in the completely wrong direction. If I pass the airport with the 90, the arrow points to the tail, tells me to turn around and then guides you directly there, just like it should. This was an issue flying into Craig, CO a little while ago. I was unfamiliar with the area, so I trusted and followed the 196, right past town with the Garmin telling me to keep flying straight. I had to climb a couple thousand feet for a better view, circle around, and find the airport the old fashioned way. My question is for others flying a 196. Does yours do the same thing, or does your heading indicator trustfully point to your destination from wherever you are and from whatever direction your nose is pointed? Or, do I have a bad unit? Or do I need to somehow program out this glitch, or do I not know what I'm doing and need some dummy's book on how to use a GPS? Thanks, Andy href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List"> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com"> http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N avigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: Cowl hot spots
Date: Jun 03, 2007
Here's a pic of how I did my -8 and it worked perfectly... http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Pictures/Dscn0341x.jpg Randy Lervold ----- Original Message ----- From: Vince-Himsl To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 12:51 PM Subject: RV-List: Cowl hot spots I am applying the aluminum stick on foil to my lower cowl and would appreciate builder experience with heat induced hot spots. That is, were should I put the stuff? So far, I have covered the aft 2/3 of the lower cowl with nothing on the upper cowl (RV8). Thanks! Vince H. RV8 - VSB . Finish (getting close) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 196 help
Date: Jun 03, 2007
Do you have it set to "Track up"? Randy Lervold ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Gold To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 12:31 PM Subject: RV-List: Garmin 196 help I just installed a Garmin 196 in place of my old Garmin 90. I liked the 90. It did everything I wanted it to do perfectly and simply for day VFR navigation. Just enter where you want to go and follow the arrow and it always took me right over the center of the destination airport. (I never used the map page) The only reason I gave it up was because the database was 5-6 years old and I couldn't get an update. So, I bought a 196. With all the raving about it here and on other web sites, I looked forward to seeing how great it really was. (for what I use it for I couldn't imagine how it could be any better, but at least its updated with the new maps and AFDs) Bottom line is the 196 has a really bad quirk that I don't like at all, enough that if I can't find a solution I'm going to pull it out and reinstall the relic 90. Following the arrow to a destination works great from a distance, but when I get within about 10-15 miles from the destination the arrow starts to skew over one way or the other. In other words the arrow says that the destination is 30 degrees over to the right, but I know the airport is straight ahead over the ridge. As I get closer, this displacement gets worse and worse. If I pass the airport the 196 does no correct. It keeps telling me to go straight or in the completely wrong direction. If I pass the airport with the 90, the arrow points to the tail, tells me to turn around and then guides you directly there, just like it should. This was an issue flying into Craig, CO a little while ago. I was unfamiliar with the area, so I trusted and followed the 196, right past town with the Garmin telling me to keep flying straight. I had to climb a couple thousand feet for a better view, circle around, and find the airport the old fashioned way. My question is for others flying a 196. Does yours do the same thing, or does your heading indicator trustfully point to your destination from wherever you are and from whatever direction your nose is pointed? Or, do I have a bad unit? Or do I need to somehow program out this glitch, or do I not know what I'm doing and need some dummy's book on how to use a GPS? Thanks, Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin 196 help
Date: Jun 03, 2007
Actually my initial guess may not be correct. If you use the map function is helps provide situational awareness and may clue you in to what is wrong. I doubt that the GPS unit is bad. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Garmin 196 help
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
The way to do what you are wanting to do is after you are done with your side trips is to hit the direct to button, it will update your course and give you the current course to where you are going. If you enter a flight plan, it will always have the original plan in there and will give you directions to intercept that course, so it is working as programmed, you are just having to much fun of course for it! Dan N289DT RV10E _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Gold Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 6:25 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 196 help It's showing that I'm left or right of what the direct course would have been, either because I detoured around terrain or because the RV is just so much fun to fly that we'll play around a bit on the way to where we're going. But that shouldn't matter. At least it didn't with the Garmin 90. I know this may be heresy to some, but I don't really care where I am relative to what the straight line course would have been. I only care where my destination is relative to where I'm at now. I'd like to trust that when the GPS is locked into an official airport identifier that that's where its going to point to. I can always beg forgiveness from the chief pilot (my wife) or the accountant (my wife) later for burning too much fuel or spending to much time flying. Stein says just fly with the map page instead. That may well be what I have to do, but I'll miss the simplicity of just following the little arrow. Andy ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Bowen <mailto:Larry(at)bowenaero.com> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 2:58 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 196 help You can "follow" the arrow and still be left/right of course. Are the top middle and bottom of the arrow all aligned? Or is the center section of the arrow off to the left (for example) -- showing you are right of the direct course? -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com On 6/3/07, SteinAir, Inc. wrote: Hi Andy, I'm not really sure which "arrow" you're referring to? is it the HSI/DG page? I've been using my old 196 for years and it's been super accurate the whole time (even driving my autopilot). The other question is why don't you use the map page? If you put in a "Direct To" to where you're going you just follow the line....no "arrow" to worry about?!?! Cheers, Stein. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Gold Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 2:31 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Garmin 196 help I just installed a Garmin 196 in place of my old Garmin 90. I liked the 90. It did everything I wanted it to do perfectly and simply for day VFR navigation. Just enter where you want to go and follow the arrow and it always took me right over the center of the destination airport. (I never used the map page) The only reason I gave it up was because the database was 5-6 years old and I couldn't get an update. So, I bought a 196. With all the raving about it here and on other web sites, I looked forward to seeing how great it really was. (for what I use it for I couldn't imagine how it could be any better, but at least its updated with the new maps and AFDs) Bottom line is the 196 has a really bad quirk that I don't like at all, enough that if I can't find a solution I'm going to pull it out and reinstall the relic 90. Following the arrow to a destination works great from a distance, but when I get within about 10-15 miles from the destination the arrow starts to skew over one way or the other. In other words the arrow says that the destination is 30 degrees over to the right, but I know the airport is straight ahead over the ridge. As I get closer, this displacement gets worse and worse. If I pass the airport the 196 does no correct. It keeps telling me to go straight or in the completely wrong direction. If I pass the airport with the 90, the arrow points to the tail, tells me to turn around and then guides you directly there, just like it should. This was an issue flying into Craig, CO a little while ago. I was unfamiliar with the area, so I trusted and followed the 196, right past town with the Garmin telling me to keep flying straight. I had to climb a couple thousand feet for a better view, circle around, and find the airport the old fashioned way. My question is for others flying a 196. Does yours do the same thing, or does your heading indicator trustfully point to your destination from wherever you are and from whatever direction your nose is pointed? Or, do I have a bad unit? Or do I need to somehow program out this glitch, or do I not know what I'm doing and need some dummy's book on how to use a GPS? Thanks, Andy href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List> href="http://forums.matronics.com"> http://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics. c om/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 196 help
I have my 196 set up to show Turn as one of the displayed fields on the map page, which is much more useful than the arrow. It will tell you exactly how much left or right to turn to stay on course. For normal flying I prefer the 196 over the 396, a transflective monochrome display is much easier to read in the bright cockpit of an RV. Less glare also. I'd love to see a monochrome version of the 396. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pitot/Static Check of EFIS
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com>
I just talked to the avionics shop in Huntsville, AL, and they want to remove my EFIS to perform the IFR checks. I would prefer that they bring the test equipment to the plane to minimize damage to the panel. Has anyone had good experiences with shops that performed tests at the plane? Any recommendations for a shop within a reasonable distance of Birmingham, AL? Thanks, Daniel Snow RV-9A, 43 Flight Hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot/Static Check of EFIS
If you are referring to an IFR pitot/ static test, then the unit should not be removed from the panel. The test is of the entire system, not just the EFIS, so must be made with the unit in the plane. I'm not local so I can't recommend anyone, but there are plenty of shops that will do your check at the airplane, and the price should be in the $200-250 range. Jeff Point RV-6 flying RV-8 building Milwaukee > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Rocky Mountain route: Noob question
I'm part of the gaggle from the SouthEast RV group headed to Yellowstone this weekend. I have no mountain flying experience save what little you get living and flying in the Appalachians the past 15 years. I plan to return home to Virginia via the Grand Canyon and Albuquerque, Dodge City, KS, St. Loiuis, MO and eastbound from there. My question pertains mostly to getting from Cody to Flagstaff. This route looks promising, but I seek input from RVers who know this area: KCOD;KRIW;KRKS;U34;KHVE;KPGA. I'm not sure how easy the Green River is to fly down to get to U34, but if it's a decent pass, then the highest terrain I should see enroute looks to be 9500' in the vicinity of Rock Springs, WY. Leaving the Grand Canyon area via KPGA;KFMN;KABQ;KDDC looks like an effortless way out to the east. I have oxygen available, and a 160hp FP RV6A that I've never taken above 11500 MSL. Naturally, everything's weather dependent, but I'm hoping with 6 days allocated for getting home from KCOD that this leg will be as doable as getting to Cody is. If you're a local, or a veteran aviator in the _real_ mountains, please chime in, here or off-list. I want to play this smart and safe. I've done the AOPA online instructional course, seen the FAA movies on mountain flying, and "read the book," BTW. -Stormy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "mbick" <mbick(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Breather run into exhaust
Date: Jun 04, 2007
I was wondering if anyone ran their breather tube into the exhaust. I have seen this done more and more lately on aerobatic planes where the breather runs into exhaust. Granted they have some separation from direct crankcase breathing vie the inverted systems but vent none the less into the exhaust. Any thoughts? Thanks Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Pitot/Static Check of EFIS
Snow, Daniel A. wrote: > > I just talked to the avionics shop in Huntsville, AL, and they want to > remove my EFIS to perform the IFR checks. I would prefer that they > bring the test equipment to the plane to minimize damage to the panel. > Has anyone had good experiences with shops that performed tests at the > plane? Any recommendations for a shop within a reasonable distance of > Birmingham, AL? > > Thanks, > > Daniel Snow > RV-9A, 43 Flight Hours Daniel, I'm forwarding your inquiry to the TVRVBG email list with a request that one of the members reply to you with contact info for Steve Gray at Moontown Airport (3M5) just east Huntsville. He can do the pitot-static inspection and you can taxi your plane to his hangar. The check needs to be with equipment in the plane so the entire pitot system is involved in the certification. By the way, Moontown is an airport you *must* include on your favorite places list. Be sure to visit on the third Saturday for breakfast, its not unusual to have at least a dozen RVs fly in along with 30-40 other planes. Sam Buchanan http://thervjournal.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust
Date: Jun 04, 2007
IF it is done correctly, then you create a vacuum in the crankcase which in turn reduces windage losses and therefore increases Horsepower. The exhaust system becomes your venturi to create the vacuum, while at the same time burning the oil vapor coming our of the breather. do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: mbick To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 11:09 AM Subject: RV-List: Breather run into exhaust I was wondering if anyone ran their breather tube into the exhaust. I have seen this done more and more lately on aerobatic planes where the breather runs into exhaust. Granted they have some separation from direct crankcase breathing vie the inverted systems but vent none the less into the exhaust. Any thoughts? Thanks Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson(at)pobox.com>
Subject: Re: Rocky Mountain route: Noob question
Hi Stormy, ASF has a "Mountain Flying" course. http://flash.aopa.org/asf/mountainFlying/html/flash.cfm Of course, this is no substitute for hands-on training by qualified instructors. Regards, /\/elson Austin, TX RV-7A - Fuselage On Mon, 4 Jun 2007, Bill Boyd wrote: > I'm part of the gaggle from the SouthEast RV group headed to Yellowstone > this weekend. I have no mountain flying experience save what little you get > living and flying in the Appalachians the past 15 years. > > I plan to return home to Virginia via the Grand Canyon and Albuquerque, > Dodge City, KS, St. Loiuis, MO and eastbound from there. My question > pertains mostly to getting from Cody to Flagstaff. > > This route looks promising, but I seek input from RVers who know this area: > > KCOD;KRIW;KRKS;U34;KHVE;KPGA. > > I'm not sure how easy the Green River is to fly down to get to U34, but if > it's a decent pass, then the highest terrain I should see enroute looks to > be 9500' in the vicinity of Rock Springs, WY. > > Leaving the Grand Canyon area via KPGA;KFMN;KABQ;KDDC looks like an > effortless way out to the east. > > I have oxygen available, and a 160hp FP RV6A that I've never taken above > 11500 MSL. Naturally, everything's weather dependent, but I'm hoping with 6 > days allocated for getting home from KCOD that this leg will be as doable as > getting to Cody is. If you're a local, or a veteran aviator in the _real_ > mountains, please chime in, here or off-list. I want to play this smart and > safe. I've done the AOPA online instructional course, seen the FAA movies > on mountain flying, and "read the book," BTW. > > -Stormy > -- ~~ ** ~~ Research has shown that Mondays account for 1/7th of your time ~~ ** ~~ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 04, 2007
Subject: Re: Pitot/Static Check of EFIS
I HAVE HIM LISTED AS STEVE BROWN _sfbrown1(at)hiwaay.net_ (mailto:sfbrown1(at)hiwaay.net) 256-683-8240 PLEASE LET US KNOW IF HE IS STILL OPERATING AT MOONTOWN.....I NEED TO GET THE 10 DONE. REGARDS, DOUG ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Rocky Mountain route: Noob question
Date: Jun 04, 2007
Preliminary look is that it is low for an RV. I would plan on flying high using oxygen because in some areas the terrain is not conducive to an off-field landing. Will assess it more later. PS, 11,500' is my typical LOW flying altitude. >From ABQ you should be fine. Just get over the mountains east of ABQ. Ron Lee This route looks promising, but I seek input from RVers who know this area: KCOD;KRIW;KRKS;U34;KHVE;KPGA. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
Date: Jun 04, 2007
Tail is almost done and I need to order my wing kit this week and would love to get conventional wisdom or whether to order it with capacitive fuel sending units or float sending units. I will probable use a combo EMS i.e. Vision, GRT, Dynon etc. Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated. I am building an RV 7 with 180 and CS. Thanks Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 <http://www.newventureconsulting.com> www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell(at)gforcecable.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust
At 12:09 PM 6/4/07, you wrote: >I was wondering if anyone ran their breather tube into the exhaust. >I have seen this done more and more lately on aerobatic planes where >the breather runs into exhaust. Granted they have some separation >from direct crankcase breathing vie the inverted systems but vent >none the less into the exhaust. I fly mostly aerobatics in my RV with inverted oil system. I vent into exhaust and I never had any problems. Bob RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: Breather run into exhaust
Date: Jun 04, 2007
I have a Sonerai with a breather run out the tail. The builder put a bulkhead fitting with hose barb ends in the firewall and ran a plastic tube all the way through the fusalage and has it coming out right over the tailwheel. You just plug the breather tube from the engine into the fitting on the firewall and the oily belly problem is gone forever. I really like the setup and will put it in on all my future planes. It is easy to do, effective, and adds very little cost or weight. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 4:16 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Breather run into exhaust At 12:09 PM 6/4/07, you wrote: >I was wondering if anyone ran their breather tube into the exhaust. >I have seen this done more and more lately on aerobatic planes where >the breather runs into exhaust. Granted they have some separation >from direct crankcase breathing vie the inverted systems but vent >none the less into the exhaust. I fly mostly aerobatics in my RV with inverted oil system. I vent into exhaust and I never had any problems. Bob RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "n801bh(at)netzero.com" <n801bh(at)netzero.com>
Date: Jun 04, 2007
Subject: Re: Rocky Mountain route: Noob question
Fly as much as you can in the early mornings, give yourself 1000+ over a ny ridgetops and enjoy the scenery. Weather for this weekend looks kinda iffy, that's if the front spinning in from the NW can knock down the pr esent high pressure we have sitting over us for the past two weeks. My b et is it will get deflected and you guys will have a great time. Fly saf ely. Ben Jackson Hole Wy Ben Haas N801BH www.haaspowerair.com -- "Bill Boyd" wrote: I'm part of the gaggle from the SouthEast RV group headed to Yellowstone this weekend. I have no mountain flying experience save what little yo u get living and flying in the Appalachians the past 15 years. I plan to return home to Virginia via the Grand Canyon and Albuquerque, Dodge City, KS, St. Loiuis, MO and eastbound from there. My question pe rtains mostly to getting from Cody to Flagstaff. This route looks promising, but I seek input from RVers who know this ar ea: KCOD;KRIW;KRKS;U34;KHVE;KPGA. I'm not sure how easy the Green River is to fly down to get to U34, but if it's a decent pass, then the highest terrain I should see enroute loo ks to be 9500' in the vicinity of Rock Springs, WY. Leaving the Grand Canyon area via KPGA;KFMN;KABQ;KDDC looks like an effo rtless way out to the east. I have oxygen available, and a 160hp FP RV6A that I've never taken above 11500 MSL. Naturally, everything's weather dependent, but I'm hoping w ith 6 days allocated for getting home from KCOD that this leg will be as doable as getting to Cody is. If you're a local, or a veteran aviator in the _real_ mountains, please chime in, here or off-list. I want to p lay this smart and safe. I've done the AOPA online instructional course , seen the FAA movies on mountain flying, and "read the book," BTW. -Stormy ======================== ======================== ======================== ======================== ====================

Fly as much as you can in the early mornings, give yourself 100 0+ over any ridgetops and enjoy the scenery. Weather for this weekend lo oks kinda iffy, that's if the front spinning in from the NW can knock do wn the present high pressure we have sitting over us for the past two we eks. My bet is it will get deflected and you guys will have a great time . Fly safely.

Ben

Jackson Hole Wy


Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerai r.com

-- "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>&n bsp;wrote:
I'm part of the gaggle from the SouthEast RV group headed to Yellowstone this weekend.  I have no mountain flying experience save what little you get living and flying in the Appalachians the past 15 years.

I plan to return home to Virginia via the Grand Canyon and Albuquerque, Dodge City, KS, St. Loiuis, MO and eastbound from there .  My question pertains mostly to getting from Cody to Flagstaff. < BR>
This route looks promising, but I seek input from RVers who know this area:

KCOD;KRIW;KRKS;U34;KHVE;KPGA.

I'm not sure how easy the Green River is to fly down to get to U34, but if it's a decent pass, then the highest terrain I should see enroute looks to be 9500' in the vicinity of Rock Springs, WY.

Leaving the Grand Canyon area via KPGA;KFMN;KABQ;KDDC looks like an effortless way out to the east.
I have oxygen available, and a 160hp FP RV6A that I've never taken above 11500 MSL.  Naturally, everything's weather dependent, but I 'm hoping with 6 days allocated for getting home from KCOD that this leg will be as doable as getting to Cody is.  If you're a local, or a veteran aviator in the _real_ mountains, please chime in, here or off-li st.  I want to play this smart and safe.  I've done the AOPA o nline instructional course, seen the FAA movies on mountain flying, and "read the book," BTW.

-Stormy


      
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From: "rtitsworth" <rtitsworth(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Rocky Mountain route: Noob question
Date: Jun 04, 2007
Do you have a G396. G496, or other XM weather system? The wx can change dramatically throughout the day out west (including wind/turbulence), and bailout airports are sometimes further apart and/or on the other side of adjacent terrain. Perhaps not a requirement, but certainly a "nice to have", especially when traversing long distances. _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Boyd Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 12:49 PM Subject: RV-List: Rocky Mountain route: Noob question I'm part of the gaggle from the SouthEast RV group headed to Yellowstone this weekend.. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
Date: Jun 04, 2007
Carl I went capacitive....but would probably use float next time around..... Frank @ SGU RV7A "NDY" >From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "Carl Bell" >Subject: RV-List: Capacitive Fuel Sending units >Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 15:10:41 -0400 > >Tail is almost done and I need to order my wing kit this week and would >love >to get conventional wisdom or whether to order it with capacitive fuel >sending units or float sending units. I will probable use a combo EMS i.e. >Vision, GRT, Dynon etc. Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated. I >am building an RV 7 with 180 and CS. Thanks > > >Carl W Bell > >New Venture Consulting > >Mobile: 803.640.2760 > > <http://www.newventureconsulting.com> www.newventureconsulting.com > >carlbell(at)gforcecable.com > > _________________________________________________________________ Get a preview of Live Earth, the hottest event this summer - only on MSN http://liveearth.msn.com?source=msntaglineliveearthhm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: GPS Recommendation
Timothy E. Cone wrote: > Do not let the low price of the Lowrance 2000C fool you, it is a very > nice piece. > > They have a long history of free or near free updates, when new > technology becomes available. They recently added terrain warning as > a free software upgrade. > > Rumor has it XM weather is next. > > I'm not affiliated with them, just a happy customer. And if you *really* want a big bang for the buck, and a b/w display will work for you (works great under our RV canopies; the brighter the light, the better it looks), check out the Lowrance Airmap 1000: http://www.avionicswest.com/airmap1000.htm#2003 Avionics West has it for $499.00. I've been flying a 1000 for over a year and really like it. Sam Buchanan =============== > Dear Listers, I am ready to order a GPS for my Zenith CH701. My > dilemma is what to get. I have reduced the affordable units to > three: - Garmin GPS 296 $1,495 - Lowrance 200C $999 - AvMap EKP-IVC > $1,495 > > Your comments are appreciated. If you have flown with any, please > indicate your experience. Regards, Ken Arnold N701LK 75% ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Rocky Mountain route: Noob question
Date: Jun 04, 2007
>Preliminary look is that it is low for an RV. By that I meant that the RV can get well above terrain easily. One suggestion. From U34, consider heading to Monument Valley. Around 110 degrees, 10 minutes west and 37 degrees, 3 minutes north. Then head west just south of Navajo Mountain to Page. Disregard, Do that on your flight from Page to FMN. Less out of your way and most likely earlier in the day. Then circle around four corners (Utah, NM, CO, AZ). You will see Shiprock NM almost straight ahead on your way to FMN. >From there you can head to Santa Fe (KSAF) then pick up the expressway eastbound south of Las Vegas NM (KLVS) then on east. If you are feeling adventurous, direct from KSAF to KLVS would get you over some mountains with lower terrain to your right. No need to go south to ABQ unless you want to but you are close when near KSAF. Miami Co Kansas (K81) had cheap fuel and good BBQ on field when I was there a year ago if that is on your way. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 04, 2007
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust
I have run the crankcase vent line ONTO not INTO the exhaust pipe on both or our 150 HP RV-4's and don't have a problem with oily belly. About 1/8" between vent tube and exhaust pipe. Bob Olds RV-4 N1191X Charleston,Arkansas ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: mark phipps <skydive80020(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rocky Mountain route: Noob question
Last week I flew from Longmont (just north of Denver ) direct to Las Vegas in my 6A. 13'500 over the continental divide and the remainder of the route and area north can be handled at 11"500. Easy flight in an RV, I agree though mornings will help you avoid thunderstorms that we get off the mountains almost every afternoon. Mark Phipps, N242RP, Gypsy Spirit "n801bh(at)netzero.com" wrote: Fly as much as you can in the early mornings, give yourself 1000+ over any ridgetops and enjoy the scenery. Weather for this weekend looks kinda iffy, that's if the front spinning in from the NW can knock down the present high pressure we have sitting over us for the past two weeks. My bet is it will get deflected and you guys will have a great time. Fly safely. Ben Jackson Hole Wy Ben Haas N801BH www.haaspowerair.com -- "Bill Boyd" wrote: I'm part of the gaggle from the SouthEast RV group headed to Yellowstone this weekend. I have no mountain flying experience save what little you get living and flying in the Appalachians the past 15 years. I plan to return home to Virginia via the Grand Canyon and Albuquerque, Dodge City, KS, St. Loiuis, MO and eastbound from there. My question pertains mostly to getting from Cody to Flagstaff. This route looks promising, but I seek input from RVers who know this area: KCOD;KRIW;KRKS;U34;KHVE;KPGA. I'm not sure how easy the Green River is to fly down to get to U34, but if it's a decent pass, then the highest terrain I should see enroute looks to be 9500' in the vicinity of Rock Springs, WY. Leaving the Grand Canyon area via KPGA;KFMN;KABQ;KDDC looks like an effortless way out to the east. I have oxygen available, and a 160hp FP RV6A that I've never taken above 11500 MSL. Naturally, everything's weather dependent, but I'm hoping with 6 days allocated for getting home from KCOD that this leg will be as doable as getting to Cody is. If you're a local, or a veteran aviator in the _real_ mountains, please chime in, here or off-list. I want to play this smart and safe. I've done the AOPA online instructional course, seen the FAA movies on mountain flying, and "read the book," BTW. -Stormy ==================================== tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ==================================== tronics.com ==================================== --------------------------------- You snooze, you lose. Get messages ASAP with AutoCheck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: "David Burnham" <daverv6a(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
Carl, I have capacitance senders and Advanced Systems engine monitor, accuracy is amazing. Dave Burnham N64FN Huntsville, AL On 6/4/07, Frank Stringham wrote: > > > Carl > > I went capacitive....but would probably use float next time around..... > > Frank @ SGU RV7A "NDY" > > > >From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >To: "Carl Bell" > >Subject: RV-List: Capacitive Fuel Sending units > >Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 15:10:41 -0400 > > > >Tail is almost done and I need to order my wing kit this week and would > >love > >to get conventional wisdom or whether to order it with capacitive fuel > >sending units or float sending units. I will probable use a combo EMS > i.e. > >Vision, GRT, Dynon etc. Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated. > I > >am building an RV 7 with 180 and CS. Thanks > > > > > > > >Carl W Bell > > > >New Venture Consulting > > > >Mobile: 803.640.2760 > > > > <http://www.newventureconsulting.com> www.newventureconsulting.com > > > >carlbell(at)gforcecable.com > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get a preview of Live Earth, the hottest event this summer - only on MSN > http://liveearth.msn.com?source=msntaglineliveearthhm > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Rocky Mountain route: Noob question
Date: Jun 04, 2007
Another option to get a bit of a feel for the Rockies is once you pass four corners, head east to Pagosa Springs (KPSO), previously 2V1. Then go over Wolf Creek Pass just a bit left of a direct line from KPSO to Del Norte (8V1). Then a direct line from 8V1 to La Junta CO (KLHX) will take you over the Great Sand Dunes National Monument. Fly over the passes there and east to flat country. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
David how are you checking the accuracy? I have the same set up and I stick my tanks before flying to check the fuel level and the level on the monitor and I would not call the accuracy amazing. Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm David Burnham wrote: > Carl, > > I have capacitance senders and Advanced Systems engine monitor, > accuracy is amazing. > > Dave Burnham > N64FN > Huntsville, AL > > > On 6/4/07, *Frank Stringham* > wrote: > > fstringham(at)hotmail.com > > > Carl > > I went capacitive....but would probably use float next time > around..... > > Frank @ SGU RV7A "NDY" > > > >From: "Carl Bell" < carlbell(at)gforcecable.com > > > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >To: "Carl Bell" > > >Subject: RV-List: Capacitive Fuel Sending units > >Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 15:10:41 -0400 > > > >Tail is almost done and I need to order my wing kit this week and > would > >love > >to get conventional wisdom or whether to order it with capacitive > fuel > >sending units or float sending units. I will probable use a > combo EMS i.e. > >Vision, GRT, Dynon etc. Any thoughts or experience would be > appreciated. I > >am building an RV 7 with 180 and CS. Thanks > > > > > > > >Carl W Bell > > > >New Venture Consulting > > > >Mobile: 803.640.2760 > > > > <http://www.newventureconsulting.com > > www.newventureconsulting.com <http://www.newventureconsulting.com> > > > >carlbell(at)gforcecable.com > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PittsS1(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 04, 2007
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust
there is positive pressure in the crank case if you can neutralize that pressure the internal rotating parts will spin free ... resulting in free horse power. the exhaust can create a lot of suction and actually suck oil from the crank case ... be careful. on a pumped up / modified I0-360 with a 4 into 1 exhaust i used a stainless 1/2 in tube welded into the collector at 45 degree angle ... plus ... a metered 'pill' to get the correct vacuum pressure. i monitored oil consumption changing the orifice size until oil consumption was normal. the house power increase was the most notable of all previous mods. yes ... a poor mans smoke system but no more oil on the belly ... do it! lots of acro guys do ... mike ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: GPS Recommendation
Jeff Orear wrote: > This may sway you Ken, as well as the other recommedataion for the > 2000c. The list price is not what you will pay. You can get a 2000c > for just under $700.00. IMHO, major bang-age for the buck. > > Sam, I had a 1000 in my 6A and could not read the thing. I had it > flush mounted just to the left of my center of view and I was > catching myself scrunching down and leaning over to see it at all. > Reflection from my shirt was a problem as well. I put the 2000c in > the same slot and boy oh boy what a difference. MUCH more readable > for me. Could be a function of where it was mounted, but I just > could not read the 1000. Sorry to see the 1000 didn't work out for you, Jeff. I assume you tried adjusting the display settings.... The unit has been very readable in my plane, even for the passenger. The other pilots in our area with the Airmap 1000 have been very pleased with all aspects of the box. There are other GPS's with more features (color, weather) but the 1000 is a great unit for the price, and my eyes appreciate the big display (even bigger than the 2000C). It is puzzling why you had viewing problems with your 1000, but glad the 2000C is working for you. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com>
Subject: Breather run into exhaust
Date: Jun 04, 2007
What was the best size orifice for this ? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PittsS1(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:28 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Breather run into exhaust there is positive pressure in the crank case if you can neutralize that pressure the internal rotating parts will spin free ... resulting in free horse power. the exhaust can create a lot of suction and actually suck oil from the crank case ... be careful. on a pumped up / modified I0-360 with a 4 into 1 exhaust i used a stainless 1/2 in tube welded into the collector at 45 degree angle ... plus ... a metered 'pill' to get the correct vacuum pressure. i monitored oil consumption changing the orifice size until oil consumption was normal. the house power increase was the most notable of all previous mods. yes ... a poor mans smoke system but no more oil on the belly ... do it! lots of acro guys do ... mike _____ See what's free at AOL.com <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PittsS1(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 05, 2007
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust
dont remember, it was years ago. ... start small maybe .125 ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: Re: GPS Recommendation
Date: Jun 05, 2007
Sam: I definitely agree that the 1000 is a very good unit. I really think that my viewing problems stemmed from where I had it mounted. I did try various brightness/contrast settings to no avail. Rather than make a major change with my panel arrangement, I opted to try the 2000c. Regards, Jeff Orear RV6A N782P Peshtigo, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 11:07 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Recommendation > > Jeff Orear wrote: >> This may sway you Ken, as well as the other recommedataion for the >> 2000c. The list price is not what you will pay. You can get a 2000c >> for just under $700.00. IMHO, major bang-age for the buck. >> >> Sam, I had a 1000 in my 6A and could not read the thing. I had it >> flush mounted just to the left of my center of view and I was >> catching myself scrunching down and leaning over to see it at all. >> Reflection from my shirt was a problem as well. I put the 2000c in >> the same slot and boy oh boy what a difference. MUCH more readable >> for me. Could be a function of where it was mounted, but I just >> could not read the 1000. > > > Sorry to see the 1000 didn't work out for you, Jeff. I assume you tried > adjusting the display settings.... > > The unit has been very readable in my plane, even for the passenger. The > other pilots in our area with the Airmap 1000 have been very pleased with > all aspects of the box. There are other GPS's with more features (color, > weather) but the 1000 is a great unit for the price, and my eyes > appreciate the big display (even bigger than the 2000C). > > It is puzzling why you had viewing problems with your 1000, but glad the > 2000C is working for you. > > Sam Buchanan > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Rocky Mountain route: Noob question
Date: Jun 05, 2007
Just so you know, the alternate routes I suggested have you over mountains for short periods. I avoid extended time over places with no landing options. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N67BT(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 05, 2007
Subject: Re: GPS Recommendation
Do the 1000 and 2000c include private airports in the data base? Bob Trumpfheller RV7A 11 hrs flying time so far http://mesawood.com ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2007
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: GPS Recommendation
N67BT(at)aol.com wrote: > Do the 1000 and 2000c include private airports in the data base? The 1000 does not......unfortunately. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Beaver <jason(at)jasonbeaver.com>
Subject: Re: GPS Recommendation
Date: Jun 05, 2007
Jeff Orear wrote: > This may sway you Ken, as well as the other recommedataion for the > 2000c. The list price is not what you will pay. You can get a 2000c > for just under $700.00. IMHO, major bang-age for the buck. > Sam, I had a 1000 in my 6A and could not read the thing. I had it > flush mounted just to the left of my center of view and I was > catching myself scrunching down and leaning over to see it at all. > Reflection from my shirt was a problem as well. I put the 2000c in > the same slot and boy oh boy what a difference. MUCH more readable > for me. Could be a function of where it was mounted, but I just > could not read the 1000. Where can you get the 2000c for just under $700? thanks, jason ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net>
Subject: GPS Recommendation
Date: Jun 05, 2007
Gulf Coast Avionics is $749, best I found on short search http://www.gulf-coast-avionics.com/detail/8722/GPS/Lowrance/AIRMAP%5F2000C/ Dale -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jason Beaver Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 11:46 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Recommendation Jeff Orear wrote: > This may sway you Ken, as well as the other recommedataion for the > 2000c. The list price is not what you will pay. You can get a 2000c > for just under $700.00. IMHO, major bang-age for the buck. > Sam, I had a 1000 in my 6A and could not read the thing. I had it > flush mounted just to the left of my center of view and I was > catching myself scrunching down and leaning over to see it at all. > Reflection from my shirt was a problem as well. I put the 2000c in > the same slot and boy oh boy what a difference. MUCH more readable > for me. Could be a function of where it was mounted, but I just > could not read the 1000. Where can you get the 2000c for just under $700? thanks, jason ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 05, 2007
Subject: Re:GPS Recommendation
Hi Ken, I have a 296 that I bought used on eBay from a fella who was upgrading. It has worked flawlessly, really good readability in sunlight and terrain/obstruction feature is nice. Currently selling on eBay for 1100~1200 many with auto kit. Jerry Cochran From: "Ken Arnold" <arno7452(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: RV-List: GPS Recommendation Dear Listers, I am ready to order a GPS for my Zenith CH701. My dilemma is what to get. I have reduced the affordable units to three: - Garmin GPS 296 $1,495 - Lowrance 200C $999 - AvMap EKP-IVC $1,495 Your comments are appreciated. If you have flown with any, please indicate your experience. Regards, Ken Arnold N701LK 75% do not archive ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2007
From: Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rocky Mountain route: Noob question
From Cody one can climb to 10,500 and cross over Yellowstone, 90 nm. That is high enough that it will not be too much bother as you see Old Faithful and the other geysers. Turn south to Driggs, KDIJ, and dine on the patio watching aircraft arrive and depart with the Teatons in the background. Restaurants are also at Ogden. EAA 407 is having a camp-in and breakfast at KWYS in August. If you want to visit the Grand Canyon area you can continue on down the west side of the Rockies past Salt Lake City down to St. George and the Moab Zion area. If you want to cross back to Rock Springs, it is relatively low turning east from Bear Lake, 1U7, to Evanston. Bill Boyd wrote: I'm part of the gaggle from the SouthEast RV group headed to Yellowstone this weekend. I have no mountain flying experience save what little you get living and flying in the Appalachians the past 15 years. I plan to return home to Virginia via the Grand Canyon and Albuquerque, Dodge City, KS, St. Loiuis, MO and eastbound from there. My question pertains mostly to getting from Cody to Flagstaff. Sherman Butler RV-7a Wings Idaho Falls --------------------------------- Looking for earth-friendly autos? Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: Re: GPS Recommendation
Date: Jun 05, 2007
I got mine this April from Marv Golden for $750.00. A day after I rx'd it, I saw a posting on one of the forums where one was had for $690.00. Not sure what the best price is now, but the bottom line is you can get them for much less than they are commonly adverised for. Regards, Jeff Orear RV6A N782P Peshtigo, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jason Beaver" <jason(at)jasonbeaver.com> Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 10:46 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Recommendation > > Jeff Orear wrote: >> This may sway you Ken, as well as the other recommedataion for the >> 2000c. The list price is not what you will pay. You can get a 2000c >> for just under $700.00. IMHO, major bang-age for the buck. >> Sam, I had a 1000 in my 6A and could not read the thing. I had it >> flush mounted just to the left of my center of view and I was >> catching myself scrunching down and leaning over to see it at all. >> Reflection from my shirt was a problem as well. I put the 2000c in >> the same slot and boy oh boy what a difference. MUCH more readable >> for me. Could be a function of where it was mounted, but I just >> could not read the 1000. > > Where can you get the 2000c for just under $700? > > thanks, > > jason > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: RV transition training
Date: Jun 05, 2007
While I am unfortunately far from being ready for RV transition training, I think it is a very important part of the building process. I won't fly my plane until I've gotten it, and I recommend that others take it. I thought I should add a new page to my web site called Transition Training, and populate it with info on all the people offering RV transition training. Back when I started building, I think Mike Seager was the only one doing it. But I know there are at least several more doing it now. So, if you do RV transition training or know of someone who does, please reply to this message with some basic info: name of CFI and/or company location contact info web site, if applicable tailwheel or trigear RV model other info, such as your impression of the training, if you received it If you don't know all the above info, just submit what you do know. Thanks for your input. This will help all of us. brian PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2007
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV transition training
Brian, I heartily reccommend Jan Bussell for transition training. He is located near the Okeechobee, Florida airport (OBE). I took my transition training in February 2005 in his RV-6A. He also has an RV-6. After that several hours with Jan, my first flight in my own RV-6A was almost a non event. Everything was familiar with no surprises. I had not flown during my 5 years of building except to get a couple of biennial flight reviews in Cessna 152 and 172s. He is an excellent instructor. You can find out details including how to contact him at: http://www.safeair1.com/RVTT/JB_Aframe.htm Regards, Richard Dudley RV-6A flying Brian Meyette wrote: > >While I am unfortunately far from being ready for RV transition training, I >think it is a very important part of the building process. I won't fly my >plane until I've gotten it, and I recommend that others take it. > >I thought I should add a new page to my web site called Transition Training, >and populate it with info on all the people offering RV transition training. >Back when I started building, I think Mike Seager was the only one doing it. >But I know there are at least several more doing it now. > >So, if you do RV transition training or know of someone who does, please >reply to this message with some basic info: > >name of CFI and/or company >location >contact info >web site, if applicable >tailwheel or trigear >RV model >other info, such as your impression of the training, if you received it > >If you don't know all the above info, just submit what you do know. Thanks >for your input. This will help all of us. >brian > >PM > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PittsS1(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 05, 2007
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust
no prob with christen inverted oil system ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2007
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: RV transition training
It has already been done! http://www.vansairforce.net/transition_training.htm Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Brian Meyette wrote: > > While I am unfortunately far from being ready for RV transition training, I > think it is a very important part of the building process. I won't fly my > plane until I've gotten it, and I recommend that others take it. > > I thought I should add a new page to my web site called Transition Training, > and populate it with info on all the people offering RV transition training. > Back when I started building, I think Mike Seager was the only one doing it. > But I know there are at least several more doing it now. > > So, if you do RV transition training or know of someone who does, please > reply to this message with some basic info: > > name of CFI and/or company > location > contact info > web site, if applicable > tailwheel or trigear > RV model > other info, such as your impression of the training, if you received it > > If you don't know all the above info, just submit what you do know. Thanks > for your input. This will help all of us. > brian > > PM > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: RV transition training
Date: Jun 05, 2007
Oh - silly me! Thanks for the info, Bobby I'll add a link to it on my site brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 7:31 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV transition training It has already been done! http://www.vansairforce.net/transition_training.htm Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Brian Meyette wrote: > > While I am unfortunately far from being ready for RV transition training, I > think it is a very important part of the building process. I won't fly my > plane until I've gotten it, and I recommend that others take it. > > I thought I should add a new page to my web site called Transition Training, > and populate it with info on all the people offering RV transition training. > Back when I started building, I think Mike Seager was the only one doing it. > But I know there are at least several more doing it now. > > So, if you do RV transition training or know of someone who does, please > reply to this message with some basic info: > > name of CFI and/or company > location > contact info > web site, if applicable > tailwheel or trigear > RV model > other info, such as your impression of the training, if you received it > > If you don't know all the above info, just submit what you do know. Thanks > for your input. This will help all of us. > brian > > PM > > PM PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: RV transition training
Date: Jun 05, 2007
I've created a new page with pointers to the VAF page, as well as additional sources such as this one. If anyone has more, please email me about it. I think there was someone in NC doing it a year or so ago, so if anyone has that name, please let me know Thanks, brian http://brian76.mystarband.net/training.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Dudley Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 7:11 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV transition training Brian, I heartily reccommend Jan Bussell for transition training. He is located near the Okeechobee, Florida airport (OBE). I took my transition training in February 2005 in his RV-6A. He also has an RV-6. After that several hours with Jan, my first flight in my own RV-6A was almost a non event. Everything was familiar with no surprises. I had not flown during my 5 years of building except to get a couple of biennial flight reviews in Cessna 152 and 172s. He is an excellent instructor. You can find out details including how to contact him at: http://www.safeair1.com/RVTT/JB_Aframe.htm Regards, Richard Dudley RV-6A flying Brian Meyette wrote: > >While I am unfortunately far from being ready for RV transition training, I >think it is a very important part of the building process. I won't fly my >plane until I've gotten it, and I recommend that others take it. > >I thought I should add a new page to my web site called Transition Training, >and populate it with info on all the people offering RV transition training. >Back when I started building, I think Mike Seager was the only one doing it. >But I know there are at least several more doing it now. > >So, if you do RV transition training or know of someone who does, please >reply to this message with some basic info: > >name of CFI and/or company >location >contact info >web site, if applicable >tailwheel or trigear >RV model >other info, such as your impression of the training, if you received it > >If you don't know all the above info, just submit what you do know. Thanks >for your input. This will help all of us. >brian > >PM > > PM PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net>
Subject: RV transition training
Date: Jun 05, 2007
Unfortunately, the VAF list is woefully incomplete. There are MANY more pilots providing transition training now. I'm not sure how to round them all up other than a "plea" like Brian has done. One example is Dan Cunningham in Alabama who trains in a 9A. Dan Cunningham dannycfi(at)yahoo.com Home # 256-353-6181 Cell # 256-221-8986 Bret Smith RV-9A (91314) Mineral Bluff, GA www.FlightInnovations.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 10:50 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: RV transition training --> Oh - silly me! Thanks for the info, Bobby I'll add a link to it on my site brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 7:31 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV transition training It has already been done! http://www.vansairforce.net/transition_training.htm Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Brian Meyette wrote: > --> > > While I am unfortunately far from being ready for RV transition > training, I > think it is a very important part of the building process. I won't fly > my plane until I've gotten it, and I recommend that others take it. > > I thought I should add a new page to my web site called Transition Training, > and populate it with info on all the people offering RV transition training. > Back when I started building, I think Mike Seager was the only one > doing it. > But I know there are at least several more doing it now. > > So, if you do RV transition training or know of someone who does, > please reply to this message with some basic info: > > name of CFI and/or company > location > contact info > web site, if applicable > tailwheel or trigear > RV model > other info, such as your impression of the training, if you received > it > > If you don't know all the above info, just submit what you do know. > Thanks for your input. This will help all of us. > brian > > PM > > PM PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: RV transition training
Date: Jun 05, 2007
Keep 'em coming, and I'll keep adding them to my list brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bret Smith Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 9:30 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: RV transition training Unfortunately, the VAF list is woefully incomplete. There are MANY more pilots providing transition training now. I'm not sure how to round them all up other than a "plea" like Brian has done. One example is Dan Cunningham in Alabama who trains in a 9A. Dan Cunningham dannycfi(at)yahoo.com Home # 256-353-6181 Cell # 256-221-8986 Bret Smith RV-9A (91314) Mineral Bluff, GA www.FlightInnovations.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 10:50 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: RV transition training --> Oh - silly me! Thanks for the info, Bobby I'll add a link to it on my site brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 7:31 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV transition training It has already been done! http://www.vansairforce.net/transition_training.htm Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Brian Meyette wrote: > --> > > While I am unfortunately far from being ready for RV transition > training, I > think it is a very important part of the building process. I won't fly > my plane until I've gotten it, and I recommend that others take it. > > I thought I should add a new page to my web site called Transition Training, > and populate it with info on all the people offering RV transition training. > Back when I started building, I think Mike Seager was the only one > doing it. > But I know there are at least several more doing it now. > > So, if you do RV transition training or know of someone who does, > please reply to this message with some basic info: > > name of CFI and/or company > location > contact info > web site, if applicable > tailwheel or trigear > RV model > other info, such as your impression of the training, if you received > it > > If you don't know all the above info, just submit what you do know. > Thanks for your input. This will help all of us. > brian > > PM > > PM PM PM PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2007
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: RV transition training
Dan Cunningham is on the VAF list, that is how I found him and got my transition training from him :-) Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY My RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Bret Smith wrote: > >Unfortunately, the VAF list is woefully incomplete. There are MANY more >pilots providing transition training now. I'm not sure how to round them >all up other than a "plea" like Brian has done. One example is Dan >Cunningham in Alabama who trains in a 9A. > >Dan Cunningham > dannycfi(at)yahoo.com > Home # 256-353-6181 > Cell # 256-221-8986 > > >Bret Smith >RV-9A (91314) >Mineral Bluff, GA >www.FlightInnovations.com > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette >Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 10:50 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: RV transition training > >--> > >Oh - silly me! Thanks for the info, Bobby >I'll add a link to it on my site >brian > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester >Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 7:31 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV transition training > > >It has already been done! >http://www.vansairforce.net/transition_training.htm > >Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A website: >http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm > > >Brian Meyette wrote: > > >>--> >> >>While I am unfortunately far from being ready for RV transition >>training, >> >> >I > > >>think it is a very important part of the building process. I won't fly >>my plane until I've gotten it, and I recommend that others take it. >> >>I thought I should add a new page to my web site called Transition >> >> >Training, > > >>and populate it with info on all the people offering RV transition >> >> >training. > > >>Back when I started building, I think Mike Seager was the only one >>doing >> >> >it. > > >>But I know there are at least several more doing it now. >> >>So, if you do RV transition training or know of someone who does, >>please reply to this message with some basic info: >> >>name of CFI and/or company >>location >>contact info >>web site, if applicable >>tailwheel or trigear >>RV model >>other info, such as your impression of the training, if you received >>it >> >>If you don't know all the above info, just submit what you do know. >>Thanks for your input. This will help all of us. >>brian >> >>PM >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >PM > >PM > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV transition training
Date: Jun 05, 2007
I stuck a few on the bottom here a few months ago http://rvhotline.expercraft.com/articles/2007/transition_training.html -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 10:18 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: RV transition training --> I've created a new page with pointers to the VAF page, as well as additional sources such as this one. If anyone has more, please email me about it. I think there was someone in NC doing it a year or so ago, so if anyone has that name, please let me know Thanks, brian http://brian76.mystarband.net/training.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Dudley Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 7:11 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV transition training Brian, I heartily reccommend Jan Bussell for transition training. He is located near the Okeechobee, Florida airport (OBE). I took my transition training in February 2005 in his RV-6A. He also has an RV-6. After that several hours with Jan, my first flight in my own RV-6A was almost a non event. Everything was familiar with no surprises. I had not flown during my 5 years of building except to get a couple of biennial flight reviews in Cessna 152 and 172s. He is an excellent instructor. You can find out details including how to contact him at: http://www.safeair1.com/RVTT/JB_Aframe.htm Regards, Richard Dudley RV-6A flying Brian Meyette wrote: >--> > >While I am unfortunately far from being ready for RV transition >training, I think it is a very important part of the building process. >I won't fly my plane until I've gotten it, and I recommend that others take it. > >I thought I should add a new page to my web site called Transition Training, >and populate it with info on all the people offering RV transition training. >Back when I started building, I think Mike Seager was the only one >doing it. >But I know there are at least several more doing it now. > >So, if you do RV transition training or know of someone who does, >please reply to this message with some basic info: > >name of CFI and/or company >location >contact info >web site, if applicable >tailwheel or trigear >RV model >other info, such as your impression of the training, if you received it > >If you don't know all the above info, just submit what you do know. >Thanks for your input. This will help all of us. >brian > >PM > > PM PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2007
From: Reuven Silberman <pilots2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV transition training
Brian, I do transition training in my RV7A. I am located in Southern America in a little 365 sunny day village called San Diego California; based at KSEE. Reuven Silberman N7WT Keep 'em coming, and I'll keep adding them to my list brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bret Smith Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 9:30 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: RV transition training Unfortunately, the VAF list is woefully incomplete. There are MANY more pilots providing transition training now. I'm not sure how to round them all up other than a "plea" like Brian has done. One example is Dan Cunningham in Alabama who trains in a 9A. Dan Cunningham dannycfi(at)yahoo.com Home # 256-353-6181 Cell # 256-221-8986 Bret Smith RV-9A (91314) Mineral Bluff, GA www.FlightInnovations.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 10:50 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: RV transition training --> Oh - silly me! Thanks for the info, Bobby I'll add a link to it on my site brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 7:31 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV transition training It has already been done! http://www.vansairforce.net/transition_training.htm Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Brian Meyette wrote: > --> > > While I am unfortunately far from being ready for RV transition > training, I > think it is a very important part of the building process. I won't fly > my plane until I've gotten it, and I recommend that others take it. > > I thought I should add a new page to my web site called Transition Training, > and populate it with info on all the people offering RV transition training. > Back when I started building, I think Mike Seager was the only one > doing it. > But I know there are at least several more doing it now. > > So, if you do RV transition training or know of someone who does, > please reply to this message with some basic info: > > name of CFI and/or company > location > contact info > web site, if applicable > tailwheel or trigear > RV model > other info, such as your impression of the training, if you received > it > > If you don't know all the above info, just submit what you do know. > Thanks for your input. This will help all of us. > brian > > PM > > PM PM PM PM "No pressure, no diamonds". ~Thomas Carlyle ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: RV transition training
Date: Jun 06, 2007
I'll add a link to your page, too brian see you at the BBQ! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob Collins Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 10:10 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: RV transition training I stuck a few on the bottom here a few months ago http://rvhotline.expercraft.com/articles/2007/transition_training.html -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 10:18 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: RV transition training --> I've created a new page with pointers to the VAF page, as well as additional sources such as this one. If anyone has more, please email me about it. I think there was someone in NC doing it a year or so ago, so if anyone has that name, please let me know Thanks, brian http://brian76.mystarband.net/training.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Dudley Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 7:11 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV transition training Brian, I heartily reccommend Jan Bussell for transition training. He is located near the Okeechobee, Florida airport (OBE). I took my transition training in February 2005 in his RV-6A. He also has an RV-6. After that several hours with Jan, my first flight in my own RV-6A was almost a non event. Everything was familiar with no surprises. I had not flown during my 5 years of building except to get a couple of biennial flight reviews in Cessna 152 and 172s. He is an excellent instructor. You can find out details including how to contact him at: http://www.safeair1.com/RVTT/JB_Aframe.htm Regards, Richard Dudley RV-6A flying Brian Meyette wrote: >--> > >While I am unfortunately far from being ready for RV transition >training, I think it is a very important part of the building process. >I won't fly my plane until I've gotten it, and I recommend that others take it. > >I thought I should add a new page to my web site called Transition Training, >and populate it with info on all the people offering RV transition training. >Back when I started building, I think Mike Seager was the only one >doing it. >But I know there are at least several more doing it now. > >So, if you do RV transition training or know of someone who does, >please reply to this message with some basic info: > >name of CFI and/or company >location >contact info >web site, if applicable >tailwheel or trigear >RV model >other info, such as your impression of the training, if you received it > >If you don't know all the above info, just submit what you do know. >Thanks for your input. This will help all of us. >brian > >PM > > PM PM PM PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: RV transition training
Date: Jun 06, 2007
Ill add you to my list When Im ready for my training, even though you are the furthest possible from me, maybe Ill come to you (sure cant beat that SD weather!) ;-) brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Reuven Silberman Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 10:25 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: RV transition training Brian, I do transition training in my RV7A. I am located in Southern America in a little 365 sunny day village called San Diego California; based at KSEE. Reuven Silberman N7WT Brian Meyette wrote: Keep 'em coming, and I'll keep adding them to my list brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bret Smith Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 9:30 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: RV transition training Unfortunately, the VAF list is woefully incomplete. There are MANY more pilots providing transition training now. I'm not sure how to round them all up other than a "plea" like Brian has done. One example is Dan Cunningham in Alabama who trains in a 9A. Dan Cunningham dannycfi(at)yahoo.com Home # 256-353-6181 Cell # 256-221-8986 Bret Smith RV-9A (91314) Mineral Bluff, GA www.FlightInnovations.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 10:50 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: RV transition training --> Oh - silly me! Thanks for the info, Bobby I'll add a link to it on my site brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 7:31 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV transition training It has already been done! http://www.vansairforce.net/transition_training.htm Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Brian Meyette wrote: > --> > > While I am unfortunately far from being ready for RV transition > training, I > think it is a very important part of the building process. I won't fly > my plane until I've gotten it, and I recommend that others take it. > > I thought I should add a new page to my web site called Transition Training, > and populate it with info on all the people offering RV transition training. > PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 06, 2007
Subject: Re: RV transition training
In a message dated 6/5/2007 9:07:42 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, brianpublic2(at)starband.net writes: Unfortunately, the VAF list is woefully incomplete. There are MANY more pilots providing transition training now. I'm not sure how to round them all up ============================================ We shouldn't have to round them up. If anyone out there is giving or knows someone giving transition training, please provide me their info and I will add them into the Yeller Pages. That is what it is for. I can't imagine anyone providing this important service (who presumably would like to get even more business than they are currently getting) and would not want to be listed in the most public RV listings possible. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 847hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV transition training
From: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Date: Jun 06, 2007
Where is the current Yeller Pages repository? Doug > In a message dated 6/5/2007 9:07:42 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > brianpublic2(at)starband.net writes: > Unfortunately, the VAF list is woefully incomplete. There are > MANY more > pilots providing transition training now. I'm not sure how to > round them > all up > > ============================================ > > We shouldn't have to round them up. If anyone out there is giving or > knows someone giving transition training, please provide me their info > and I will add them into the Yeller Pages. That is what it is for. > > I can't imagine anyone providing this important service (who > presumably would like to get even more business than they are > currently getting) and would not want to be listed in the most public > RV listings possible. > > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 847hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) > > > > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > See what's free at AOL.com. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV transition training
Date: Jun 06, 2007
//I'll add a link to your page, too No need, just copy and paste off that page and stick 'em on yours. Sounds like a good project and probably would be easier folks to have them all on one page somewhere rather than just links pointing all over the place. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: RV transition training
Date: Jun 06, 2007
Hey All... I do have a new site I have been working on that we could use for this... www.wheelsup.org - Click on databases and the flight instructors / transition training... Its a pretty new site so I don't have a lot of data, very little actually, but there is a link at the top of the page that will allow you to submit your information to be added tot he database... Thanks! -Bill Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote: In a message dated 6/5/2007 9:07:42 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, brianpublic2(at)starband.net writes: Unfortunately, the VAF list is woefully incomplete. There are MANY more pilots providing transition training now. I'm not sure how to round them all up ============================================ We shouldn't have to round them up. If anyone out there is giving or knows someone giving transition training, please provide me their info and I will add them into the Yeller Pages. That is what it is for. I can't imagine anyone providing this important service (who presumably would like to get even more business than they are currently getting) and would not want to be listed in the most public RV listings possible. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 847hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) _____ See what's free at AOL.com <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV transition training
From: "renewhall2" <renewhall2(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jun 06, 2007
Brian, I'm offering RV instruction in my -7. My info is: Bob Newhall, CFI airplanes & gliders Raleigh, NC (as of July 1, 2007) RV7, tailwheel, O360, c/s prop, $140/hr wet Contact: 303.819.1482 cell renewhall2(at)yahoo.com website: http://renewhall2.googlepages.com Bob -------- Bob Newhall N829RV RV Transition Training Boulder, CO renewhall2.googlepages.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116859#116859 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)rconnect.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust
Date: Jun 06, 2007
Does this implementation negate the "whistle slot used to avoid blockages of the crankcase vent?" Joe Connell RV-9A N95JJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 06, 2007
Subject: Re: RV transition training
In a message dated 6/6/2007 2:41:40 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au writes: Where is the current Yeller Pages repository? ========================================================== _http://www.matronics.com/YellerPages/_ (http://www.matronics.com/YellerPages/) GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 847hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Subject: Re: RV transition training
Date: Jun 06, 2007
Thanks, Bob. I've added your info. The list continues to grow, and also references more info in several other lists. If there are any other names, please reply here or email me direct. This is what we have so far: http://brian76.mystarband.net/training.htm brian -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of renewhall2 Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 9:03 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: RV transition training Brian, I'm offering RV instruction in my -7. My info is: Bob Newhall, CFI airplanes & gliders Raleigh, NC (as of July 1, 2007) RV7, tailwheel, O360, c/s prop, $140/hr wet Contact: 303.819.1482 cell renewhall2(at)yahoo.com website: http://renewhall2.googlepages.com Bob -------- Bob Newhall N829RV RV Transition Training Boulder, CO renewhall2.googlepages.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116859#116859 PM PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust
Date: Jun 06, 2007
The whistle slot is there to mainly prevent freezing of the end of the breather pipe. Won't happen if it ends in the hot exhaust system, I would think... But you can leave a whistle slot in the pipe anyway if it makes you feel better... ----- Original Message ----- From: Joe & Jan Connell To: RV-List Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 8:29 AM Subject: Subject: Re: RV-List: Breather run into exhaust Does this implementation negate the "whistle slot used to avoid blockages of the crankcase vent?" Joe Connell RV-9A N95JJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2007
From: <n1345p(at)suddenlink.net>
Subject: Re: garmin 196
Andy, My guess in that you may have selected direct to a VOR or other waypoint instead of the airport. Make sure to select the airport with a 4-digit nemonic, including a the K, if it has one. I had this issue flying to Duncan, OK once when I first got a newer GPS. I selected DUC which was the VOR 5 miles southeast of the airport instead of KDUC. Mitch - still in dreaming building stage... ----- Original Message ----- From: Andy Gold To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 12:31 PM Subject: RV-List: Garmin 196 help I just installed a Garmin 196 in place of my old Garmin 90. I liked the 90. It did everything I wanted it to do perfectly and simply for day VFR navigation. Just enter where you want to go and follow the arrow and it always took me right over the center of the destination airport. (I never used the map page) The only reason I gave it up was because the database was 5-6 years old and I couldn't get an update. So, I bought a 196. With all the raving about it here and on other web sites, I looked forward to seeing how great it really was. (for what I use it for I couldn't imagine how it could be any better, but at least its updated with the new maps and AFDs) Bottom line is the 196 has a really bad quirk that I don't like at all, enough that if I can't find a solution I'm going to pull it out and reinstall the relic 90. Following the arrow to a destination works great from a distance, but when I get within about 10-15 miles from the destination the arrow starts to skew over one way or the other. In other words the arrow says that the destination is 30 degrees over to the right, but I know the airport is straight ahead over the ridge. As I get closer, this displacement gets worse and worse. If I pass the airport the 196 does no correct. It keeps telling me to go straight or in the completely wrong direction. If I pass the airport with the 90, the arrow points to the tail, tells me to turn around and then guides you directly there, just like it should. This was an issue flying into Craig, CO a little while ago. I was unfamiliar with the area, so I trusted and followed the 196, right past town with the Garmin telling me to keep flying straight. I had to climb a couple thousand feet for a better view, circle around, and find the airport the old fashioned way. My question is for others flying a 196. Does yours do the same thing, or does your heading indicator trustfully point to your destination from wherever you are and from whatever direction your nose is pointed? Or, do I have a bad unit? Or do I need to somehow program out this glitch, or do I not know what I'm doing and need some dummy's book on how to use a GPS? Thanks, Andy -- Learn2fly www.chickashawings.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2007
From: "David Dalton" <ddalton536(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV transition training
Bob, Are you moving to NC? I was planning on flying with you out of Longmont once I complete my -7. NC is a long way to travel to get instruction... DD On 6/6/07, renewhall2 wrote: > > > Brian, > I'm offering RV instruction in my -7. My info is: > > Bob Newhall, CFI airplanes & gliders > Raleigh, NC (as of July 1, 2007) > RV7, tailwheel, O360, c/s prop, $140/hr wet > > Contact: > 303.819.1482 cell > renewhall2(at)yahoo.com > website: http://renewhall2.googlepages.com > > Bob > > -------- > Bob Newhall > N829RV > RV Transition Training > Boulder, CO > renewhall2.googlepages.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116859#116859 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2007
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning)
One worry is that valve fails closed and cause the crankcase seals blow. That could be very critical and losing the front crank seal could cause fire, loss of oil pressure (engine power) and loss of visibility out the wind screen. It has happened, not with a drag race crankcase evacuation valve, but from a blocked breather. If you use this system put a "whistle slot" into the tube. It is a slit along the length in the rubber tube (a few inches) that is just held close by the natural shape of the tube. If you get a blockage and pressure build the slot will open up enough to allow some pressure to escape. I think running the breather near the hot pipe, but outside works fine. This is standard procedure on RV's. I usually transition the last few inches from rubber to metal to sit next to the hot pipe. Also if the suction is too great it can suck out more air and oil desirable. When using the technique of burning the breather air/oil on the out side of the pipe, it is recommended you cut the end of the tube at an angle into free air stream. If you have air going across a flat tube or angled down stream you can really cause excess suck on the breather and pull oil out of the plane. This >>>>>> \| Not this >>>>>> |/ However the drag race set up has you angle the air down stream. That may cause lots of suction but if the valve regulates the suck that is fine but as I say if that valve fails closed it could be bad news with out a whistle slot in the hose. Cheeres George ATP/CFI-II-ME --------------------------------- Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2007
Subject: Breather run into exhaust (warning)
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
George, What you are saying on the breather tube is to cut the end such that a slight pressurization occurs rather than a slight suction on the end ??? If the tube is inside the cowl, will it make a difference? Mine is exiting just in front of the engine mount for my "9-A" (tie wrapped to the mount) and about 1/4" above the exhaust pipe. The end of the tube is sort of angling toward the rear of the a/c. Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning)
Date: Jun 06, 2007
I don't see how a vacuum created by the hot exhaust gasses could block the breather tube. Nor should an exhaust generated vacuum be able to pressurize the crankcase... Granted, there were incidents where the end of the breather stuck out in the cold below the cowling and froze shut, causing a pressure buildup inside the case, which a whistle slot in a warm location will prevent. Oil loss *may* need to be addresses on any individual engine by regulating this crankcase vacuum depending on its health, but if the piston rings seal well, then there should not be to much blowby anyway. ----- Original Message ----- From: gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 11:55 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning) One worry is that valve fails closed and cause the crankcase seals blow. That could be very critical and losing the front crank seal could cause fire, loss of oil pressure (engine power) and loss of visibility out the wind screen. It has happened, not with a drag race crankcase evacuation valve, but from a blocked breather. If you use this system put a "whistle slot" into the tube. It is a slit along the length in the rubber tube (a few inches) that is just held close by the natural shape of the tube. If you get a blockage and pressure build the slot will open up enough to allow some pressure to escape. I think running the breather near the hot pipe, but outside works fine. This is standard procedure on RV's. I usually transition the last few inches from rubber to metal to sit next to the hot pipe. Also if the suction is too great it can suck out more air and oil desirable. When using the technique of burning the breather air/oil on the out side of the pipe, it is recommended you cut the end of the tube at an angle into free air stream. If you have air going across a flat tube or angled down stream you can really cause excess suck on the breather and pull oil out of the plane. This >>>>>> \| Not this >>>>>> |/ However the drag race set up has you angle the air down stream. That may cause lots of suction but if the valve regulates the suck that is fine but as I say if that valve fails closed it could be bad news with out a whistle slot in the hose. Cheeres George ATP/CFI-II-ME ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning)
Date: Jun 06, 2007
Jim, You should be ok with this setup. You should see a slight vacuum on its end. Do you also have a small whistle slot in the tube? You may not need it if your tube ends inside the warm cowling exhaust air. ----- Original Message ----- From: James H Nelson To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 2:53 PM Subject: RV-List: Breather run into exhaust (warning) George, What you are saying on the breather tube is to cut the end such that a slight pressurization occurs rather than a slight suction on the end ??? If the tube is inside the cowl, will it make a difference? Mine is exiting just in front of the engine mount for my "9-A" (tie wrapped to the mount) and about 1/4" above the exhaust pipe. The end of the tube is sort of angling toward the rear of the a/c. Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PittsS1(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 06, 2007
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning)
you guys make this so difficult ... hang around the acro guys, this isnt new to them nor is it rocket science. mike ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: Re: Grand Canyon was Rocky Mountain route: Noob question
Date: Jun 06, 2007
> I plan to return home to Virginia via the Grand Canyon and > Albuquerque, Dodge City, KS, St. Louis, MO and eastbound from > there. My question pertains mostly to getting from Cody to Flagstaff. Bill, To fly the Grand Canyon you will need the NACO chart "Grand Canyon VFR Aeronautical Chart (General Aviation)". The latest edition and date of the chart is 3rd Edition April 19, 2001 (yes 2001 is the latest edition). This chart tells GA flier (non-commercial tour operators) where they can fly, general very high and above the rim. There are no fly zones extending up tp 14,500 ft to protect the birds. I flew the canyon on a beautifully clear, cloudless, hot, mid afternoon day in late September 2004. It does not look as good at 10,000 ft as the profession photographers who shot early in the morning or late afternoon with big puffy clouds. To fly it, I added about 5 way points to my GPS and created a route so I could fly with having to do a lot of "navigation" during the flight. I started at Kingman, AZ (IGM) and flew to Winslow, AZ (INW) for the night. There are no good places to land if your engine acts up. Still I would do it again. Richard Reynolds RV-6A, N841RV Norfolk, VA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Timothy E. Cone" <tcone1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Wingtip rib question
Date: Jun 06, 2007
Hey there, I'm finishing the wingtips on my -8. Part number W-412 is the wingtip rib at the trailing edge. The plans call for the flange to face inboard, toward the aileron. I've heard people then fill the opening of the wingtip, so that it is smooth. My question is, rather than doing it that way, why not put the flange facing outboard. I realize that the rivets will be tougher to buck, but I'm going to over-countersink them and glass them over anyway. So why not use pulled rivets? Thanks, Tim Cone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 07, 2007
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust
In a message dated 6/6/2007 11:15:46 AM Central Daylight Time, klwerner(at)comcast.net writes: Why do you have an oil separator if you don't reuse the oil in the first place. What is the purpose of separating the oily air mix and then discard both onto the exhaust pipe??? I'd remove the weight of the useless contraption... >>> Re-using the oil is not the issue, which many say is a bad idea as it routes nasty stuff back into the sump- keeping the "dirty side" less so is. Better (IMHO) to collect as much blow-by crud that might normally blow out onto yer belly and discard it with the old oil at oil change time. See: _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5172_ (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5172) Click on >>Next Entry>> for next 3 entries and on fotos for bigger view. Here's the "proof in da puddin' ": _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5261_ (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5261) Just an option, but this has really worked out quite nicely after 415+ hours operation on my plane. Cheap, simple, effective... >From The PossumWorks in TN, Mark _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/_ (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/) ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV transition training
From: "ddurakovich" <ddurakovich(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jun 07, 2007
> We shouldn't have to round them up. If anyone out there is giving or knows someone giving transition training, please provide me their info and I will add them into the Yeller Pages. That is what it is for. > > I can't imagine anyone providing this important service (who presumably would like to get even more business than they are currently getting) and would not want to be listed in the most public RV listings possible. I would urge people to use extreme caution when publishing this list! A simple guess on my part, but I suspect that those CFI's that are not advertising their services are just trying to help out a friend, and may not have a commercial insurance policy ($6,000 to $10,000 per year premium?) or the requisite FAA exemption for the commercial use of an experimental aircraft.... 'Outing' some of these folks may have the reverse effect of driving the rest even further underground! -------- Dave Durakovich RV-4, Flying! N666PR Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117032#117032 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV transition training
Date: Jun 07, 2007
Hi, What does the 666 stand for in your number? Happy landings, Dale -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddurakovich Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 8:03 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: RV transition training > We shouldn't have to round them up. If anyone out there is giving or knows someone giving transition training, please provide me their info and I will add them into the Yeller Pages. That is what it is for. > > I can't imagine anyone providing this important service (who presumably would like to get even more business than they are currently getting) and would not want to be listed in the most public RV listings possible. I would urge people to use extreme caution when publishing this list! A simple guess on my part, but I suspect that those CFI's that are not advertising their services are just trying to help out a friend, and may not have a commercial insurance policy ($6,000 to $10,000 per year premium?) or the requisite FAA exemption for the commercial use of an experimental aircraft.... 'Outing' some of these folks may have the reverse effect of driving the rest even further underground! -------- Dave Durakovich RV-4, Flying! N666PR Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117032#117032 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 07, 2007
Subject: Re: RV transition training
In a message dated 6/7/2007 5:05:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ddurakovich(at)yahoo.com writes: I would urge people to use extreme caution when publishing this list! A simple guess on my part, but I suspect that those CFI's that are not advertising their services are just trying to help out a friend, and may not have a commercial insurance policy ($6,000 to $10,000 per year premium?) or the requisite FAA exemption for the commercial use of an experimental aircraft.... 'Outing' some of these folks may have the reverse effect of driving the rest even further underground! ======================================== That is their choice. If no one wants to be listed I am happy to oblige and they have but to contact me to be removed. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 847hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2007
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Let me be a little sensational or hype it, you are playing with fire. Do what ever you want but you are adding weight, build time (requires welding) and cost if you buy the (Mororso, Mr. Gasket, Jegs, summit) crankcase evacuation systems designed for drag racers. What VAN recommends and shows on his plans is placing the breather near the outside of the pipe with a angle cut INTO THE WIND or facing forward, NOT aft. The air flow in the cowl is not the same as inside the exhaust pipe. The key is the angle cut, but why change it, if it ain't broke? Just follow plans that came with your RV. Call Van and ask them. I think they know something about building planes. The idea is NOT to create suction or vacuum on the end of the breather for some perceived increase in HP from reduced oil "Wind- age". We are talking about a Lyc at 2,500 rpm not a 10,000 rpm drag engine. If you do suck more air out the breather its likely you will suck more oil out the engine. You can put "metering pills" in but you really are just getting back to what you had outside the pipe. The idea of a 0.125" orifice scares me. A piece of gunk could block that. YES PUT THE Whistle stop in. A breather blockage could ruin your whole day or life. Repeat a Blocked the Breather can Kill You.! There is no guarantee in life and that is cheap insurance. Read these: http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 050427X00513&key=1 http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001212X22309&key=1 http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001211X09800&key=1 http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001212X18647&key=1 As far as comments about "I don't know how it can be blocked", I say you have little imagination. There's a guy named Murphy that will screw you up. Now why would you NOT want a whistle slot? A bug or something could block it. You could accidentally pinch it while working on the plane previous to the flight...........use your imagination. No matter how you vent the crankcase, the health of the engine has more to do with the amount of oil going out the breather than the angle of the breather tube end or where it's at. What ever you do don't cut the breather end square. Follow the PLANS is my advice, simple, light, works, won't freeze as some imply. George ATP/CFI-II-ME/RV-4/-7 --------------------------------- Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PittsS1(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 07, 2007
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
have anyone thought about whats proven to work ... or ... what the hanger gurus think works mike ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2007
From: "David Burnham" <daverv6a(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
Bobby, I check the gauge levels before filling and and the amount added to fill is very close to what the gauge indicates was used. The float type sensors are notoriously inaccurate, also the guages in the 172 I flew bounced around a lot once the fuel level got below 1/2. My gauges don't bounce. May be different for some of the other float type gauges? Dave On 6/4/07, Bobby Hester wrote: > > David how are you checking the accuracy? I have the same set up and I > stick my tanks before flying to check the fuel level and the level on the > monitor and I would not call the accuracy amazing. > > Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY > Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm > > > David Burnham wrote: > > Carl, > > I have capacitance senders and Advanced Systems engine monitor, accuracy > is amazing. > > Dave Burnham > N64FN > Huntsville, AL > > > On 6/4/07, Frank Stringham wrote: > > > > > > > > > Carl > > > > I went capacitive....but would probably use float next time around..... > > > > Frank @ SGU RV7A "NDY" > > > > > > >From: "Carl Bell" < carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> > > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > >To: "Carl Bell" > > >Subject: RV-List: Capacitive Fuel Sending units > > >Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 15:10:41 -0400 > > > > > >Tail is almost done and I need to order my wing kit this week and would > > >love > > >to get conventional wisdom or whether to order it with capacitive fuel > > >sending units or float sending units. I will probable use a combo EMS > > i.e. > > >Vision, GRT, Dynon etc. Any thoughts or experience would be > > appreciated. I > > >am building an RV 7 with 180 and CS. Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > >Carl W Bell > > > > > >New Venture Consulting > > > > > >Mobile: 803.640.2760 > > > > > > <http://www.newventureconsulting.com > www.newventureconsulting.com > > > > > >carlbell(at)gforcecable.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > * > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2007
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
David Burnham wrote: > Bobby, > > I check the gauge levels before filling and and the amount added to fill is > very close to what the gauge indicates was used. The float type sensors are > notoriously inaccurate, also the guages in the 172 I flew bounced around a > lot once the fuel level got below 1/2. My gauges don't bounce. May be > different for some of the other float type gauges? As another data point regarding float senders, my RV-6 has been flying nearly eight years with the standard floats feeding an Electronics International fuel gage. The system is very accurate and there is *no* gage bounce. The only shortcoming of the standard floats is that due to the dihedral of the wings they indicate full until 3-4 gallons burn out of each tank. But they are accurate from there to the bottom of the tank. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andrew Olech" <olechap(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Cowl Air Temperatures
Date: Jun 07, 2007
Out of curiosity, does anyone have an estimate (or maybe actuals) of max expected temperatures in the aft cavity portion of the cowl just forward of the firewall but behind the engine cooling baffles? (RV6/7 IO360 or equiv assuming no fire, obviously) Also, when would the worst temperatures occur, both during flight and on the ground? My guess is T/O or max power slow climb would be the most challenging design condition ... but I'm not sure, does soakback after shutdown come close? Any input is appreciated. -Andy RV-7 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2007
From: Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (another way)
At 08:15 PM 6/7/07, you wrote: >have anyone thought about whats proven to work ... or ... what the >hanger gurus think works The breather into the exhaust is an easy way to reduce, but not eliminate oil on the belly. The best way I know is to run the breather line all the way through the fuselage to the tail and have it exit around the tailwheel. Keeps a clean belly, but the tailwheel will still be dirty. This is easiest to do when building, but can be retro fitted. BTW, this is how many of the acro aircraft do it. Bob RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Cowl Air Temperatures
Date: Jun 08, 2007
I have a digital temp sensor mounted 2 inches below the lower spark plug (cyl #3) on a typical flight with OAT at 60 this reads 174. The CHTs at the same time are 360 plus or minus about 5. The highest reading I have seen so far was 180. The hottest cowl temp will be found shortly after you shut down. Dale _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Olech Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 11:20 PM Subject: RV-List: Cowl Air Temperatures Out of curiosity, does anyone have an estimate (or maybe actuals) of max expected temperatures in the aft cavity portion of the cowl just forward of the firewall but behind the engine cooling baffles? (RV6/7 IO360 or equiv assuming no fire, obviously) Also, when would the worst temperatures occur, both during flight and on the ground? My guess is T/O or max power slow climb would be the most challenging design condition ... but I'm not sure, does soakback after shutdown come close? Any input is appreciated. -Andy RV-7 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2007
From: Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
I have just shy of 500 hrs on 6A. Have used Van's fuel ga/sdg units since start. Some time ago, rt side went inaccurate (gauge ok) . Recently had wings off and so replaced both sdg units. Now neither is accurate. Shall I assume sdg units ok, and go for gauges, or what? thanks. 1:06 PM 6/7/2007, you wrote: > >David Burnham wrote: >>Bobby, >>I check the gauge levels before filling and and the amount added to fill is >>very close to what the gauge indicates was used. The float type sensors are >>notoriously inaccurate, also the guages in the 172 I flew bounced around a >>lot once the fuel level got below 1/2. My gauges don't bounce. May be >>different for some of the other float type gauges? > > >As another data point regarding float senders, my RV-6 has been >flying nearly eight years with the standard floats feeding an >Electronics International fuel gage. The system is very accurate and >there is *no* gage bounce. The only shortcoming of the standard >floats is that due to the dihedral of the wings they indicate full >until 3-4 gallons burn out of each tank. But they are accurate from >there to the bottom of the tank. > >Sam Buchanan > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2007
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
Konrad L. Werner wrote: > > I'd rather use a timer then relying on the fuel gauge. There is no argument the use of a timer is good practice. However, the historical distrust of fuel gages probably isn't as valid today in our world of accurate gages and fuel monitors. My plane, like many RVs, has not only the accurate EI electronic gage but also a fuel totalizer. As long as those two independent systems agree I will rely on them instead of a timer and they have proved to be very accurate, within a gallon or so at top-off. After flying these aids for several years, I would feel rather uninformed if all I had was a timer. :-) Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel Sending units
Date: Jun 08, 2007
Last month I had to remove float type sender due to gasket leak (after 850 hrs and 6 years). When I reinstalled the sender was inop. Quickly found the electrical ground was bad. Cleaned the top screw holding sender to insure ground; gauge was perfect again. Suggest you verify the ground contact. Dale -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Seiders Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 9:44 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitive Fuel Sending units I have just shy of 500 hrs on 6A. Have used Van's fuel ga/sdg units since start. Some time ago, rt side went inaccurate (gauge ok) . Recently had wings off and so replaced both sdg units. Now neither is accurate. Shall I assume sdg units ok, and go for gauges, or what? thanks. 1:06 PM 6/7/2007, you wrote: > >David Burnham wrote: >>Bobby, >>I check the gauge levels before filling and and the amount added to fill is >>very close to what the gauge indicates was used. The float type sensors are >>notoriously inaccurate, also the guages in the 172 I flew bounced around a >>lot once the fuel level got below 1/2. My gauges don't bounce. May be >>different for some of the other float type gauges? > > >As another data point regarding float senders, my RV-6 has been >flying nearly eight years with the standard floats feeding an >Electronics International fuel gage. The system is very accurate and >there is *no* gage bounce. The only shortcoming of the standard >floats is that due to the dihedral of the wings they indicate full >until 3-4 gallons burn out of each tank. But they are accurate from >there to the bottom of the tank. > >Sam Buchanan > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 08, 2007
Subject: Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
Richard, You can check the gauges and the sender units separately from the following data: Empty = 248 ohms, Full (Not full actually, but against top of tank) = 30.2 ohms. This is what I measured on my sender units and my gauges are pretty accurate. Vans drawing number "Wing Float Wires" dated 1/05/95 states 30 to 240 ohms as typical. This drawing also gives the bending dimensions. The sender units are Stewart Warner 385 series Lever-type fuel senders. Hope this helps, Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 6/8/2007 9:47:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, seiders(at)bellsouth.net writes: I have just shy of 500 hrs on 6A. Have used Van's fuel ga/sdg units since start. Some time ago, rt side went inaccurate (gauge ok) . Recently had wings off and so replaced both sdg units. Now neither is accurate. Shall I assume sdg units ok, and go for gauges, or what? thanks. ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2007
From: Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
Thanks, Dan will try. Dick At 10:46 AM 6/8/2007, you wrote: > >Richard, > >You can check the gauges and the sender units separately from the following >data: > >Empty = 248 ohms, Full (Not full actually, but against top of tank) = 30.2 >ohms. This is what I measured on my sender units and my gauges are pretty >accurate. > >Vans drawing number "Wing Float Wires" dated 1/05/95 states 30 to 240 ohms as >typical. This drawing also gives the bending dimensions. > >The sender units are Stewart Warner 385 series Lever-type fuel senders. > >Hope this helps, > >Dan Hopper >RV-7A > >In a message dated 6/8/2007 9:47:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, >seiders(at)bellsouth.net writes: > >I have just shy of 500 hrs on 6A. Have used Van's fuel ga/sdg units >since start. Some time ago, rt side went inaccurate (gauge ok) . >Recently had wings off and so replaced both sdg units. Now neither is >accurate. Shall I assume sdg units ok, and go for gauges, or what? thanks. > > >************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 08, 2007
Subject: Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
Speaking here of the float type sender units: I didn't really mean "against top of tank" either. I actually adjusted the bent wire to make the float go up to about 1/4 inch from the top of the tank so it wouldn't rub a hole in the top skin! Full is the term SW uses to mean as high as the gauge will indicate since the gauges can't read over -- what is it? -- 15 gallons of the 21 gallon tank. Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 6/8/2007 10:49:24 AM Eastern Standard Time, Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes: Richard, You can check the gauges and the sender units separately from the following data: Empty = 248 ohms, Full (Not full actually, but against top of tank) = 30.2 ohms. This is what I measured on my sender units and my gauges are pretty accurate. ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2007
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
>Hi George, >I read all four of your recommended NTSB reports below and they all >have. Konrad: Interesting but a few things. I did not say or intend that the NTSB examples had anything to do with drag race crank evacuation via exhaust failures or accidents. In fact these Drag Vents are just NOT done in most cars. It's made for drag racers with open pipes only. Now I'm not saying in can't or won't work on a little plane, but my point of posting the NTSB reports is, if (Big IF) your crank vent gets blocked for whatever the reason in the exhaust pipe or out of the pipe, it can be BAD. Agree? Your idea of "Tees" and all kind of stuff just makes me think, why. KISS principle. You know what that is, Keep It Simple Stupid. Keep it light, cheap, simpler, quicker to build and easier to maintain......and so on. I can't see why your idea might not work, but it sounds odd. No offense it just does not sound right off the top of my head, but it may be brilliant. Again I am a KISS principle guy. I fly big jets and have an engineering background, so I appreciate complicated systems and creativity; its just not needed in my opinion. My motto or mantra is "Build It Per the Plans". You have no way you can guarantee your special drag race adapted crank sucker vent into exhaust deal will never get blocked or fail in some way you have not thought of. Again referring to my first sentence, do what you want, it's experimental. Performance: Another point (I am just making up), blocking exhaust pipe flow with a vent may lower engine performance. A 1/2" tube sticking into the exhaust pipe, which is what the drag-race kits supply, may lower engine performance. You have to drill that 1/2" hole into the pipe and weld the tube into the exhaust pipe, that extends a good bit into the exhaust flow. Now in a BIG drag race header with +3" tubes it may not be a big deal, we have 1.75" dia exhaust typically. Our smaller pipe with a 1/2" tube extending into it can't be great for flow, thus HP, at least at high power. My RV has 4-into-1 with 1.75" pipes going into a 2.25" collector, but the large collector is mostly outside the airplane. A tube hanging off the collector outside the cowl would cause drag and look odd. I just can't see drilling big 1/2" hole into my exhaust pipe, but more power to you. (no pun intended) Cheers George ATP/CFI-II-ME, MSME, RV4/7, B7375767 --------------------------------- Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ron Schreck <ronschreck(at)windstream.net>
Subject: Knots vs. MPH
Date: Jun 09, 2007
I'm donning my nomex in preparation for the flamers. Here's my question... Why oh why do RVers continue to use statute miles and MPH? I am currently on a tour with ten other RV's and we often exchange range and speed while inflight to keep the various flights in order. I was brought up on knots and nautical miles and it throws me for a loop when we have a few who insist on calling out speeds and ranges in MPH and statute miles. All military services use knots, commercial airlines use knots, aeronautical charts are scalled based on nautical miles and ATC uses knots. As far as I can determine, the only reason GA has clung to MPH is because it sounds faster. Maybe it started with the Mooney 201? Sounds better to say your spam can cruises at 201 MPH, rather that 188 knots (or so). Other than the vanity factor, I see no real good reason to use MPH and I would hope that those of you currently building your RV's would consider this when you purchase your airspeed indicator o r calibrate your whiz bang EFIS. OK... end of rant. Tell my why not use knots! Ron Schreck RV8, "Miss Izzy" Gold Hill Airpark, NC on the way to Cody, WY ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Knots vs. MPH
From: "N395V" <n395v(at)hughes.net>
Date: Jun 09, 2007
Can't speak for others but eons ago when I trained all the ASIs in the trainers (Cessnas and Pipers) where in MPH. Same when I was an active CFI. I converted my brain to knots when I started flying a lot of ifr and like you I fly using knots/nautical. If you go to the performance pages on Vans website the RV numbers are in MPH so I think it natural many builders would follow this convention. With GPSs and EFISs today there is little benefit re charts to the VFR pilot converting his brain to think in knots. Kinda like English vs metric. I guess it boils down to personal preference. -------- Milt 2003 F1 Rocket 2006 Radial Rocket website http://www.excaliburaviation.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117448#117448 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 2007
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Knots vs. MPH
Maybe because they only have mph on their airspeed indicator and aren't so good at conversions. BTW, 201 mph =~ 175kts. ;-p Ron Schreck wrote: > > I'm donning my nomex in preparation for the flamers. Here's my question... Why oh why do RVers continue to use statute miles and MPH? I am currently on a tour with ten other RV's and we often exchange range and speed while inflight to keep the various flights in order. I was brought up on knots and nautical miles and it throws me for a loop when we have a few who insist on calling out speeds and ranges in MPH and statute miles. All military services use knots, commercial airlines use knots, aeronautical charts are scalled based on nautical miles and ATC uses knots. As far as I can determine, the only reason GA has clung to MPH is because it sounds faster. Maybe it started with the Mooney 201? Sounds better to say your spam can cruises at 201 MPH, rather that 188 knots (or so). Other than the vanity factor, I see no real good reason to use MPH and I would hope that those of you currently building your RV's would consider this when you purchase your airspeed indicator o > r calibrate your whiz bang EFIS. > > OK... end of rant. Tell my why not use knots! > > Ron Schreck > RV8, "Miss Izzy" > Gold Hill Airpark, NC > > on the way to Cody, WY > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 2007
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Knots vs. MPH
Ron Schreck wrote: > > I'm donning my nomex in preparation for the flamers. Here's my question... Why oh why do RVers continue to use statute miles and MPH? I am currently on a tour with ten other RV's and we often exchange range and speed while inflight to keep the various flights in order. I was brought up on knots and nautical miles and it throws me for a loop when we have a few who insist on calling out speeds and ranges in MPH and statute miles. All military services use knots, commercial airlines use knots, aeronautical charts are scalled based on nautical miles and ATC uses knots. As far as I can determine, the only reason GA has clung to MPH is because it sounds faster. Maybe it started with the Mooney 201? Sounds better to say your spam can cruises at 201 MPH, rather that 188 knots (or so). Other than the vanity factor, I see no real good reason to use MPH and I would hope that those of you currently building your RV's would consider this when you purchase your airspeed indicato r o > r calibrate your whiz bang EFIS. > > OK... end of rant. Tell my why not use knots! > > Ron Schreck > RV8, "Miss Izzy" > Gold Hill Airpark, NC > > on the way to Cody, WY Let's settle this once & for all. Use kilometers. Universal (except in the US & England), bigger numbers for the speed freaks. Everybody Wins! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "mbick" <mbick(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Date: Jun 09, 2007
Thanks all for the great input and the many perspectives. More as an fyi than expert speak, I initially I ran my breather through the fuselage and used an air/oil separator. What the separator did was act as a condenser putting mostly water back into the crankcase. The separator was mounted on the firewall up high and where it was mounted it remained relatively cool acting as a condenser. The long tube through the fuselage always seemed to be restrictive and if you think about it a long tube could clog for any number of reasons, bugs, gunk.etc. I checked and no clog but restrictive none the less and probably power robbing. Added to that if you think about it Lycoming has a tough time not leaking anyway so why add to Leakcoming's virtues with high crankcase pressures. Anyway I just received the kit from Summit racing and I am going to do both my Acrosport 1 which has the inverted system and the RV4. I will let you all know how well it does and again thanks for all the input. If you know anyone interested in the Acrosport 1 I am looking to sell it, great little plane I am just ready for a change. Take care, Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 2007
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: transponder & comm antenna separation RV-6/7
I just read in my Garmin GTX327 transponder installation manual that I should "avoid" placing the transponder antenna within 3 feet of any comm antenna. I assume because transmission on one can disturb reception on the other. I was advised by one of the guys at Vans to place the transponder antenna under the passenger seat at the outboard side and the comm antenna under the pilot seat just left of the central channel, that is, in the "channel" adjacent to the central channel. I like this placement. It keeps the cables fairly short and the antennas aren't hard to get to. I don't like that it puts the comm antenna fairly close to the gear legs (about 1/4 wave), but I guess you have to make some compromises. However it puts the xponder only about 2 ft from the comm. Has any one who has done this noticed any interference between the comm and transponder? (or for that matter distortion of the comm transmission pattern due to the gear legs?) -- Tom Sargent RV-6A, electrical system. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Seager" <rv6cfi(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV flight traing in Michigan
Date: Jun 09, 2007
I will be in Three Rivers Michigan before OSH this year . If you would like to take training in the factory RV-7 please call Bob Gearhart at 269 445 5102 or 269 816 0163 cell. I will be there July 20 21 22. Michael Seager 503 429 5103 477RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Knots vs. MPH
I think it has it's roots in the Man himself. go to Van's website and check how he/they publish performance specs. One of the 1st things that every RV builder wants to know once they are flying is 'how does my plane compare to Van's numbers'. So the dialog is set from the get go in ......... MPH. Deems Davis # 406 Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff http://deemsrv10.com/ > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com>
Subject: Re: Knots vs. MPH
Date: Jun 09, 2007
On Jun 9, 2007, at 4:39 PM, linn Walters wrote: > ... >> and ATC uses knots. >> > This I didn't know. > ... I always wonder what those using MPH and miles say when they tell ATC their position or when ATC asks their speed. Do they actually go through the conversion or do they just give wrong information. It sure seems easier to me to just nautical miles and knots. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://n5lp.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Knots vs. MPH
Date: Jun 09, 2007
On 9 Jun 2007, at 18:39, linn Walters wrote: > > > Ron Schreck wrote: > >> All military services use knots, commercial airlines use knots, >> aeronautical charts are scalled based on nautical miles >> > Actually aeronautical charts are based on a scale of 1:20 or > something like that .... I don't have one handy ..... and has both > a nautical and statute scale at the bottom. It is a royal pain in the you know what to use the scale at the bottom. But, there are all these longitude lines running N-S, with marks for every minute of latitude on them. And, one nautical mile = one minute of latitude, so those marks make a perfect scale, if you are using nautical miles. IFR charts have distances between waypoints, all in nautical miles. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neal George" <neal.george(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: FS: MT Prop Governor
Date: Jun 10, 2007
For Sale: New MT P-860-4 Prop Governor. For rear-mount on (I)O-320 or (I)O-360 engines. $1050, shipped. Neal E. George 2023 Everglades Drive Navarre, FL 32566 Home - 850-515-0640 Cell - 850-218-4838 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 10, 2007
Subject: Re: transponder & comm antenna separation RV-6/7
Tom, I put my comm antenna on the left side of the plane and the transponder on the right side. Both are about half way between the 2 outboard seat ribs and about 5 inches behind the spar. For the comm antenna I used some leftover stiffener material between the ribs to help reduce flexing. They are probably a little more than 3 feet apart. I fed the cables along the floor on the left and right sides rather than have them in the center along with the other wiring. Everything works fine. I have not noticed any problem with the gear leg affecting the antenna pattern, which is not to say that it doesn't have some effect. Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 6/9/2007 11:13:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, sarg314(at)comcast.net writes: I just read in my Garmin GTX327 transponder installation manual that I should "avoid" placing the transponder antenna within 3 feet of any comm antenna. I assume because transmission on one can disturb reception on the other. I was advised by one of the guys at Vans to place the transponder antenna under the passenger seat at the outboard side and the comm antenna under the pilot seat just left of the central channel, that is, in the "channel" adjacent to the central channel. I like this placement. It keeps the cables fairly short and the antennas aren't hard to get to. I don't like that it puts the comm antenna fairly close to the gear legs (about 1/4 wave), but I guess you have to make some compromises. However it puts the xponder only about 2 ft from the comm. Has any one who has done this noticed any interference between the comm and transponder? (or for that matter distortion of the comm transmission pattern due to the gear legs?) -- Tom Sargent RV-6A, electrical system. ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: transponder & comm antenna separation RV-6/7
Date: Jun 10, 2007
Hey Tom, I have about 12 hours on my RV8 with the trnxp ant. on the left side of the fuselage and the comm on the right, closer than that of your RV6 with no problems. I say go ahead with your plan. Both my trxp and comm are garmin also. Paul Rice N64PR ----- Original Message ----- From: sarg314<mailto:sarg314(at)comcast.net> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 10:08 AM Subject: RV-List: transponder & comm antenna separation RV-6/7 > I just read in my Garmin GTX327 transponder installation manual that I should "avoid" placing the transponder antenna within 3 feet of any comm antenna. I assume because transmission on one can disturb reception on the other. I was advised by one of the guys at Vans to place the transponder antenna under the passenger seat at the outboard side and the comm antenna under the pilot seat just left of the central channel, that is, in the "channel" adjacent to the central channel. I like this placement. It keeps the cables fairly short and the antennas aren't hard to get to. I don't like that it puts the comm antenna fairly close to the gear legs (about 1/4 wave), but I guess you have to make some compromises. However it puts the xponder only about 2 ft from the comm. Has any one who has done this noticed any interference between the comm and transponder? (or for that matter distortion of the comm transmission pattern due to the gear legs?) -- Tom Sargent RV-6A, electrical system. http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ator?RV-List> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: transponder & comm antenna separation RV-6/7
Date: Jun 10, 2007
Tom: I have TWO comm antennas mounted on the floor forward of the SPAR as far outboard as I can get them. I have the transponder antenna located exactly 1/2 way between them. The transponder antenna runs down the center console to it. My -6 has been flying almost 10 years. I have over 2,000 hobbs hours on it. KT-76A GX-60 SL-30 I prefer to not run the coax aft of the spar. I am able to reach one of the comm antenna while flying. If I needed to connect a handheld to it, I could. It is NOT easy but it could be done in an emergency. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 2,004 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA > I just read in my Garmin GTX327 transponder installation manual that I should "avoid" placing the transponder antenna within 3 feet of any comm antenna. I assume because transmission on one can disturb reception on the other. I was advised by one of the guys at Vans to place the transponder antenna under the passenger seat at the outboard side and the comm antenna under the pilot seat just left of the central channel, that is, in the "channel" adjacent to the central channel. I like this placement. It keeps the cables fairly short and the antennas aren't hard to get to. I don't like that it puts the comm antenna fairly close to the gear legs (about 1/4 wave), but I guess you have to make some compromises. However it puts the xponder only about 2 ft from the comm. Has any one who has done this noticed any interference between the comm and transponder? (or for that matter distortion of the comm transmission pattern due to the gear legs?) -- Tom Sargent RV-6A, electrical system. _________________________________________________________________ Get a preview of Live Earth, the hottest event this summer - only on MSN
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From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Date: Jun 10, 2007
(WARNING AGAIN & AGAIN, this one is possibly long winded, hopefully somewhat informative & perhaps entertaining to some) Hi there George (what is your last name anyway?) I've got some spare time this afternoon to answer your logic, so here it goes: Konrad: Interesting but a few things. I did not say or intend that the NTSB examples had anything to do with drag race crank evacuation via exhaust failures or accidents. >> So why bring them up then? If anyone wants to read any UN-related NTSB reports about someone elses accidents, then they can do so at will and at their topics of choice. But you certainly took the time to find these accident reports, and now you say these reports have nothing to do with the topic we were discussing... What were you thinking? ...a bit confused? In fact these Drag Vents are just NOT done in most cars. It's made for drag racers with open pipes only. >> This statement is so absolutely NOT true. They are ALSO used in drag racers, as well as other efficient performance engines of many kinds, including aviation engines (can you believe that???) The reason they are not done in most cars may have more to do with governmentally implied emission control then anything else. Now I'm not saying in can't or won't work on a little plane, but my point of posting the NTSB reports is, if (Big IF) your crank vent gets blocked for whatever the reason in the exhaust pipe or out of the pipe, it can be BAD. Agree? >> I agree that if the crankvent get's blocked then you are in for a surprise landing. But we were talking about the "improvement" of breathing, which is the exact opposite of what you are talking about... Your idea of "Tees" and all kind of stuff just makes me think, why. KISS principle. You know what that is, Keep It Simple Stupid. Keep it light, cheap, simpler, quicker to build and easier to maintain......and so on. >> One has to be able to get a clear understanding of the idea at hand. But if it is beyond grasp, then I certainly recommend to follow your rule: Keep It Simple, Stupid... I can't see why your idea might not work, but it sounds odd. No offense it just does not sound right off the top of my head, but it may be brilliant. >> I agree with you there, it sure is a brilliant idea! But I don't think I can take credit for it, as most of what I have learned throughout live I've highly likely learned from someone else that went there before me, and I always listen to people smarter then me when it comes to a subject of interest. But I can certainly understand that the idea may sound odd to someone not 100% familiar with the intricate interactive workings of a liquid fueled internal combustion powerplant that turns flaming hot air into rotational forces. There are operators, and then there are Mechanics... Again I am a KISS principle guy. I fly big jets and have an engineering background, so I appreciate complicated systems and creativity; its just not needed in my opinion. >> You fly big jets, yet you believe in KISS??? What is simple about complex jets? I don't know anything about your engineering background, nor do I care, but I have seen an aeronautical engineer try to cut a piece of sheet metal stock with a hacksaw once, and it was extremely entertaining for us all to watch, although the part became unusable for the project we worked on, so I made a new one for him. Needless to say, he did not earn our respect, but he knew his formula's. But his calculations took longer then for us to build the parts with grass roots engineering. Therefore, by you having an engineering background of whatever kind does not impress me much at all, as many people can study for a test and pass it without ever gaining a clear understanding of the subject matter at hand. However, I do truly care about the Wilbur's, Orville's, Ben's, Bob's & Rutan type of engineers. True hands-on Experimenters, ...not bookworms that hide behind a calculator, pen or PC. My motto or mantra is "Build It Per the Plans". >> Hmmm, question: Who drew the plans, and when? If it was a human then I'd like to know if it was on a grumpy Monday morning after a great weekend, or on Friday afternoon just before TGIF... And did they like their job and get along with their Boss, or were they on their way out already anyway? But if the person drawing the plans was a good engineer, then I bet they had to experiment to come up with the final plans. You have no way you can guarantee your special drag race adapted crank sucker vent into exhaust deal will never get blocked or fail in some way you have not thought of. >> I am not sure where you get the notion that I am into drag racing. If you would have paid attention then you would have figured out that my ideas are more about improving overall engine performance while at the same time making an engine more fuel efficient. I am not interested in short burst of power, but rather powerful endurance with reliablilty. About any guarantees: The only thing I care to guarantee you in this life is that death is pretty much unavoidable, ...and taxes of course. Again referring to my first sentence, do what you want, it's experimental. >> How come you participate on these lists anyway? The term "Experimental" does not fit you, and you discourage experimenting by WARNING people about something that you have never done, -nor would ever do. So how credible are your comments really? How did we ever get to the moon (and back!!!) or around the world without refueling Voyager? Hmm... Performance: Another point (I am just making up), blocking exhaust pipe flow with a vent may lower engine performance. >> Does it really? But how would we know for sure? There is just one way to find out (and it is certainly not your way)... A 1/2" tube sticking into the exhaust pipe, which is what the drag-race kits supply, may lower engine performance. You have to drill that 1/2" hole into the pipe and weld the tube into the exhaust pipe, that extends a good bit into the exhaust flow. Now in a BIG drag race header with +3" tubes it may not be a big deal, we have 1.75" dia exhaust typically. Our smaller pipe with a 1/2" tube extending into it can't be great for flow, thus HP, at least at high power. >> This 1/2" tube all-by-itself "may" restrict exhaust flow ever so slightly, but once this pipe is hooked up for scavenging purposes of the crankcase, then the resultant overall power-increase more then overcomes the cost of doing business. The same is true for Turbo- & Superchargers. Can you imagine the immense exhaust restriction which the turbine wheel of my Cummins Turbo Diesel poses inside the exhaust stream of my Dodge Ram. But this allows it to exert energy from an otherwise wasted source of dirty hot air and then it actually turns this nearly gone energy into boost to feed that bitchin' motor with compressed air, thereby increasing its output immensely. And the Cummins boys only found that out by (dare I say it...) EXPERIMENTING with their engines! Can you tell that I love my Cummins, ...especially when it is singing under full boost going uphill whilst accelerating with a heavy load towed behind. My RV has 4-into-1 with 1.75" pipes going into a 2.25" collector, but the large collector is mostly outside the airplane. A tube hanging off the collector outside the cowl would cause drag and look odd. I just can't see drilling big 1/2" hole into my exhaust pipe, but more power to you. (no pun intended) >> You must be kidding me, you actually have 4>1 headers on your plane and don't use it to create vacuum! That is so sad & even shameful... Let me know when your RV-4 comes up for sale, as it may be a decent platform to get started with hotrodding... you know, the dangerous kind!!! It is never too late to improve that little sucker (no pun intended either) Cheers George ATP/CFI-II-ME, MSME, RV4/7, B7375767 (Is that the new Boeing Triple-Decker?) Konrad (definitely NOT an ATPCFIIIMEMSMERV4/7B7375767KISS kinda guy). Now have yourself a nice Sunday, and don't take my opinions too personal. Disclaimer: No one should try to modify any engine or its associated systems, unless they have a clear understanding of the potential consequences these modifications may result in !!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Date: Jun 10, 2007
On Sunday June 10 2007 03:22 pm, Konrad L. Werner wrote: :-) > Disclaimer: No one should try to modify any engine or its associated > systems, unless they have a clear understanding of the potential > consequences these modifications may result in !!! So after reading all this, I've got a few questions: 1. What is the breather for? (my guess would be just to keep the crankcase from getting pressurized?) 2. Why does oil come out of it? (atomized oil working it's way out?) 3. Why is it bad if the crankcase gets pressurized? (pressure forcing oil out of the crankshaft / bearing interface?...which could cause the crank to sieze up?) Thanks, Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Date: Jun 10, 2007
----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com> Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 6:56 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) > > > On Sunday June 10 2007 03:22 pm, Konrad L. Werner wrote: > :-) >> Disclaimer: No one should try to modify any engine or its associated >> systems, unless they have a clear understanding of the potential >> consequences these modifications may result in !!! > > So after reading all this, I've got a few questions: > 1. What is the breather for? (my guess would be just to keep the crankcase > from getting pressurized?) Yes. Ring blow-by, which occurs on virtually all piston engines, pressurizes the crankcase. > 2. Why does oil come out of it? (atomized oil working it's way out?) Atomized oil and the occasional splash of oil if you pull negative g's. > 3. Why is it bad if the crankcase gets pressurized? (pressure forcing oil > out > of the crankshaft / bearing interface?...which could cause the crank to > sieze > up?) The front crankshaft seal is the weak link. Pressurize the crankcase and that seal starts leaking. Pressurize the crankcase a bit more and that seal comes out and a lot of oil will be right behind it. Not only is it time consuming to replace the seal, but all that oil on the windscreen might make landing a challenge. > > Thanks, > > Mike > KB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Need Performance chart
Date: Jun 10, 2007
Lycoming's model numbering uses odd numbers for hollow cranks and even for solid. So the E3D is hollow... assuming no one got creative at overhaul. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 6:29 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Need Performance chart Another question, which I haven't been able to answer, googling or even on the Lycoming site. Does the E3D have a solid or hollow crank? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 11, 2007
Subject: Garmin Foretrex 101 -- great cheap GPS
I hesitate to post this to these sophisticated lists, but I can't resist! Last week I bought a Garmin Foretrex 101 GPS at ALDI (a grocery store) for $59.95. It will operate about 15 hours on two AAA batteries and weighs about 3 ounces, and has a 12 channel receiver with WAAS. It has NEMA out which means it could conceivably send data to an autopilot -- I don't have the serial cable to try this yet. Yesterday I tried it out in my RV-7A on a 50 mile trip. Wow! It worked perfectly. You have to program the airports manually out of the Airport Directory, but you can assign an airplane icon and name them with the identifiers, etc. It will hold up to 500 waypoints. You can set the units to NAUTICAL for speed and distance. It may be possible to download a data base from a PC since it has the serial interface. This is an amazing little GPS. Dan Hopper Walton, IN ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2007
From: kirt klevin <rv6aokcity(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV Flight Bags/Better Pictures
Thanks to many of you who have ordered our Flight Bags and Chart Cases. I know that a few of you have had trouble viewing the pictures on the photoshack site so I have uploaded them to the Photobucket site which seems to work much better. Flight Bags: http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb290/BisonMountain/ Chart Cases: http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chart%20Case/ (Product Descriptions are attached below) Regards, Kurt OKC,OK RV6A, 165 hours RV Flight Bag Description: Custom RV Flight Bag (Fits RV-6/7/9) This custom flight bag was designed to fit behind the pilots and co-pilots seat of the RV-6/7/9. It fits over the flap actuator bar and makes maximum use of the area behind your seat, keeps the CG as forward as possible and maximizes remaining cargo space. It's 18in high and 12.5in wide. It has a very large main cargo area easily accessible with a large zipper flap. There are two side pockets, one 10" x 4 " and a 7" x 5 1/2 in map pocket. The rear side of the bag has a pencil/flashlight/fuel tester pocket, a 10in x 7in headset pocket, and a 6inx 5 1/4in pocket for small tools. The material and zippers are heavy duty and will last a long time. It has a nice carrying handle and comes with two straps that can be attached to your seat back to clip the bag to your seat to minimize movement. If you are interested in ordering one for your RV drop me a note at BisonMountain(at)yahoo.com. The cost is $89 ($85 for two or more) plus shipping to your address. Currently the only colors they have are black and gray. Its a nice way to clean up the cargo area and looks Chart Case Product Description: As you know, the key to keeping everything you need within reach in a small cockpit can be a challenge to say the least. Our new Chart Case is designed to fit on the floor, between the pilot and passenger, of your RV or production aircraft. It allows your approach charts, enroute charts, sectionals, WACs, pencils, flashlights, hand held radios, and other miscellaneous items to be stored in easy reach without having to climb over your seat to reach items in your cargo area. The Chart Case is 10.5 inches long, 8.75 in high, and 4.5 in wide and weighs 1 pound, 4 oz. The main compartment has a durable double zipper that allows full access to the interior. The Chart Case has 410 cubic inches of storage area and comes with a divider that can be adjusted to hold any combination of items. The divider is adjustable to any number of dimensions and will create 2 interior pockets as small as 2 inches on one side and 8 on the other and every dimension in between. The divider can also be removed to make the bag one large compartment. The interior divider and main compartment double zipper also allows one top compartment to remain open for often used items (approach charts), and the remaining compartment zipped closed. The extra portion of the top cover is tucked neatly next to the divider and less used items are out of view and your cockpit will look sharp and organized. .The Chart Case has two side map pockets designed to fit checklists, flight computers, calculators, sectionals, WACs, and Jeppesen or NOS enroute charts. Both of these pockets have Velcro straps to keep your items locked in while transporting the Chart Case. The rear pocket of the Chart Case has a zippered 4 inch by 6.5 inch pocket for just about anything. The front of the Chart Case has a multi-purpose holder for pens, pencils, smaller flashlights, and fuel strainers. Attached to the front of the case is a durable carrying handle that makes inserting and removing the Chart Case simple. A removable over the shoulder carrying strap is also included. The chart case is made of the same durable Curdura material found in our RV Flight Bags and is also available in grey and black. The Bison Mountain Chart Case sells for $49. Two or more can be purchased for $45 each. If you would like an order form simply email us at: BisonMountain(at)yahoo.com --------------------------------- Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: NW RV Fly-in
Date: Jun 11, 2007
Don't forget the 16th annual Northwest RV Fly-In, coming up this Saturday. Also this week, Thursday the 14th to be exact, is the EAA chapter 105 Drive-Out/Fly-Out/BBQ/Meeting at Vernonia. All are welcome, members or not. Anyone flying out, use this list to offer up available right seats. Details on both at www.eaa105.org Randy Lervold ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2007
From: "Greg Williams" <mr.gsun+rv-list(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV Flight Bags/Better Pictures
Can you reach into these in flight? On 6/11/07, kirt klevin wrote: > > Thanks to many of you who have ordered our Flight Bags and Chart Cases. I > know that a few of you have had trouble viewing the pictures on the > photoshack site so I have uploaded them to the Photobucket site which seems > to work much better. > > Flight Bags: > http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb290/BisonMountain/ > > Chart Cases: > http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chart%20Case/ > > (Product Descriptions are attached below) > > Regards, > > Kurt > OKC,OK > RV6A, 165 hours > > > *RV Flight Bag Description*: > > Custom RV Flight Bag (Fits RV-6/7/9) This custom flight bag was designed > to fit behind the pilots and co-pilots seat of the RV-6/7/9. It fits over > the flap actuator bar and makes maximum use of the area behind your seat, > keeps the CG as forward as possible and maximizes remaining cargo space. > It's 18in high and 12.5in wide. It has a very large main cargo area easily > accessible with a large zipper flap. There are two side pockets, one 10" x 4 > " and a 7" x 5 1/2 in map pocket. The rear side of the bag has a > pencil/flashlight/fuel tester pocket, a 10in x 7in headset pocket, and a > 6inx 5 1/4in pocket for small tools. The material and zippers are heavy duty > and will last a long time. It has a nice carrying handle and comes with two > straps that can be attached to your seat back to clip the bag to your seat > to minimize movement. If you are interested in ordering one for your RV drop > me a note at BisonMountain@yahoo.com<http://us.f632.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=BisonMountain@yahoo.com>. > The cost is $89 ($85 for two or more) plus shipping to your address. > Currently the only colors they have are black and gray. Its a nice way to > clean up the cargo area and looks > > *Chart Case Product Description:* > > As you know, the key to keeping everything you need within reach in a > small cockpit can be a challenge to say the least. Our new Chart Case is > designed to fit on the floor, between the pilot and passenger, of your RV or > production aircraft. It allows your approach charts, enroute charts, > sectionals, WAC's, pencils, flashlights, hand held radios, and other > miscellaneous items to be stored in easy reach without having to climb over > your seat to reach items in your cargo area. The Chart Case is 10.5 inches > long, 8.75 in high, and 4.5 in wide and weighs 1 pound, 4 oz. The main > compartment has a durable double zipper that allows full access to the > interior. The Chart Case has 410 cubic inches of storage area and comes with > a divider that can be adjusted to hold any combination of items. The divider > is adjustable to any number of dimensions and will create 2 interior pockets > as small as 2 inches on one side and 8 on the other and every dimension in > between. The divider can also be removed to make the bag one large > compartment. The interior divider and main compartment double zipper also > allows one top compartment to remain open for often used items (approach > charts), and the remaining compartment zipped closed. The extra portion of > the top cover is tucked neatly next to the divider and less used items are > out of view and your cockpit will look sharp and organized. .The Chart Case > has two side map pockets designed to fit checklists, flight computers, > calculators, sectionals, WAC's, and Jeppesen or NOS enroute charts. Both of > these pockets have Velcro straps to keep your items locked in while > transporting the Chart Case. The rear pocket of the Chart Case has a > zippered 4 inch by 6.5 inch pocket for just about anything. The front of > the Chart Case has a multi-purpose holder for pens, pencils, smaller > flashlights, and fuel strainers. Attached to the front of the case is a > durable carrying handle that makes inserting and removing the Chart Case > simple. A removable over the shoulder carrying strap is also included. The > chart case is made of the same durable Curdura material found in our RV > Flight Bags and is also available in grey and black. The Bison Mountain > Chart Case sells for $49. Two or more can be purchased for $45 each. If you > would like an order form simply email us at: BisonMountain@yahoo.com<http://us.f632.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=BisonMountain@yahoo.com> > > ------------------------------ > Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user > panel<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48516/*http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7+>and lay it on us. > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2007
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: RV Flight Bags/Better Pictures
The flight bag pictures are great, but the chart case URL is missing parts if it (note the ... in your URL listing) so doesn't come up :-( . Dick Tasker kirt klevin wrote: > Thanks to many of you who have ordered our Flight Bags and Chart > Cases. I know that a few of you have had trouble viewing the pictures > on the photoshack site so I have uploaded them to the Photobucket site > which seems to work much better. > > Flight Bags: > http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb290/BisonMountain/ > > Chart Cases: > http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chart%20Case/ > > (Product Descriptions are attached below) > > Regards, > > Kurt > OKC,OK > RV6A, 165 hours > > > *RV Flight Bag Description*: > > Custom RV Flight Bag (Fits RV-6/7/9) This custom flight bag was > designed to fit behind the pilots and co-pilots seat of the RV-6/7/9. > It fits over the flap actuator bar and makes maximum use of the area > behind your seat, keeps the CG as forward as possible and maximizes > remaining cargo space. It's 18in high and 12.5in wide. It has a very > large main cargo area easily accessible with a large zipper flap. > There are two side pockets, one 10" x 4 " and a 7" x 5 1/2 in map > pocket. The rear side of the bag has a pencil/flashlight/fuel tester > pocket, a 10in x 7in headset pocket, and a 6inx 5 1/4in pocket for > small tools. The material and zippers are heavy duty and will last a > long time. It has a nice carrying handle and comes with two straps > that can be attached to your seat back to clip the bag to your seat to > minimize movement. If you are interested in ordering one for your RV > drop me a note at BisonMountain(at)yahoo.com > <http://us.f632.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=BisonMountain@yahoo.com>. > The cost is $89 ($85 for two or more) plus shipping to your address. > Currently the only colors they have are black and gray. Its a nice way > to clean up the cargo area and looks > > *Chart Case Product Description:* > > As you know, the key to keeping everything you need within reach in a > small cockpit can be a challenge to say the least. Our new Chart Case > is designed to fit on the floor, between the pilot and passenger, of > your RV or production aircraft. It allows your approach charts, > enroute charts, sectionals, WAC's, pencils, flashlights, hand held > radios, and other miscellaneous items to be stored in easy reach > without having to climb over your seat to reach items in your cargo > area. The Chart Case is 10.5 inches long, 8.75 in high, and 4.5 in > wide and weighs 1 pound, 4 oz. The main compartment has a durable > double zipper that allows full access to the interior. The Chart Case > has 410 cubic inches of storage area and comes with a divider that can > be adjusted to hold any combination of items. The divider is > adjustable to any number of dimensions and will create 2 interior > pockets as small as 2 inches on one side and 8 on the other and every > dimension in between. The divider can also be removed to make the bag > one large compartment. The interior divider and main compartment > double zipper also allows one top compartment to remain open for often > used items (approach charts), and the remaining compartment zipped > closed. The extra portion of the top cover is tucked neatly next to > the divider and less used items are out of view and your cockpit will > look sharp and organized. .The Chart Case has two side map pockets > designed to fit checklists, flight computers, calculators, sectionals, > WAC's, and Jeppesen or NOS enroute charts. Both of these pockets have > Velcro straps to keep your items locked in while transporting the > Chart Case. The rear pocket of the Chart Case has a zippered 4 inch by > 6.5 inch pocket for just about anything. The front of the Chart Case > has a multi-purpose holder for pens, pencils, smaller flashlights, and > fuel strainers. Attached to the front of the case is a durable > carrying handle that makes inserting and removing the Chart Case > simple. A removable over the shoulder carrying strap is also included. > The chart case is made of the same durable Curdura material found in > our RV Flight Bags and is also available in grey and black. The Bison > Mountain Chart Case sells for $49. Two or more can be purchased for > $45 each. If you would like an order form simply email us at: > BisonMountain(at)yahoo.com > <http://us.f632.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=BisonMountain@yahoo.com> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user > panel > <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48516/*http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7%20> > and lay it on us. > >* > > >* > -- Please Note: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced. -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2007
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Interfacing Garmin GI-106A (CDI) to GNS430 "or" SL30 nav receiver
sections Considering this as an option. If GNS430 fails, then the SL30 could drive the GI106A providing VOR, LOC and ILS capabilities. (Do NOT see that the SL30 on it's front panel displays ILS guidance, just LOC and VOR.) Has anybody done this ???? If so would you share the Wiring Diagram. Seems to me that all that is required are some DPDT Relays to select the nav signals from the GNS430 or SL30 and feed them to the GI-106A. Hate to spent time re-inventing the wheel when it has already been done. Thanks, Garey Wittich Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links. http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: transponder & comm antenna separation RV-6/7
Date: Jun 11, 2007
Tom: Gary is a good source and have been flying a long time, so he's probably a good source of advice. I've seen where some tri-gears have put the transponder center forward up by the firewall, exiting between the exhaust pipes but not in the way of any exhaust. Then mount dual com antenna's forward of the spar on each side outboard as far as they will go. Don't know how this works, however, but I may soon mount my antenna's this way. One for the com and one as a hook up for a stand-by handheld on the pilots side. Makes for short run of the transponder cable, that's for certain. Marty, loading radios in panel, RV-6A From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: transponder & comm antenna separation RV-6/7 Tom: I have TWO comm antennas mounted on the floor forward of the SPAR as far outboard as I can get them. I have the transponder antenna located exactly 1/2 way between them. The transponder antenna runs down the center console to it. My -6 has been flying almost 10 years. I have over 2,000 hobbs hours on it. KT-76A GX-60 SL-30 I prefer to not run the coax aft of the spar. I am able to reach one of the comm antenna while flying. If I needed to connect a handheld to it, I could. It is NOT easy but it could be done in an emergency. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 2,004 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA > I just read in my Garmin GTX327 transponder installation manual that I should "avoid" placing the transponder antenna within 3 feet of any comm antenna. I assume because transmission on one can disturb reception on the other. I was advised by one of the guys at Vans to place the transponder antenna under the passenger seat at the outboard side and the comm antenna under the pilot seat just left of the central channel, that is, in the "channel" adjacent to the central channel. I like this placement. It keeps the cables fairly short and the antennas aren't hard to get to. I don't like that it puts the comm antenna fairly close to the gear legs (about 1/4 wave), but I guess you have to make some compromises. However it puts the xponder only about 2 ft from the comm. Has any one who has done this noticed any interference between the comm and transponder? (or for that matter distortion of the comm transmission pattern due to the gear legs?) -- Tom Sargent RV-6A, electrical system. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2007
From: kirt klevin <rv6aokcity(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Sorry...Better Chart Case Link..
As a few of you pointed out the chart case link wasn't quite complete....here is the good one... http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb290/BisonMountain/RV%20Chart%20Case/ Regards, Kurt --------------------------------- Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2007
From: kirt klevin <rv6aokcity(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV Flight Bags/Better Pictures
Greg/All, The flight bag would be difficult to reach in flight. I have, but only by going over my seat. The chart case is designed to sit on the floor of the cockpit and keep essentials at hand (I keep approach books, charts, hand held, EBIRB, extra batteries, flashlight, kneeboard, checklists, pens, etc in the chart case). I use the larger one (flight bag) for all my survival stuff, tools, extra oil, canopy cover,tiedown items, and preflight equipment (fuel tester, dip sticks, flashlight). I use a second flight bag for my overnight bag when traveling. This leaves much more room for my wifes "important" stuff.....=) Regards, Kurt Greg Williams wrote: Can you reach into these in flight? On 6/11/07, kirt klevin wrote: Thanks to many of you who have ordered our Flight Bags and Chart Cases. I know that a few of you have had trouble viewing the pictures on the photoshack site so I have uploaded them to the Photobucket site which seems to work much better. Flight Bags: http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb290/BisonMountain/ Chart Cases: http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chart%20Case/ (Product Descriptions are attached below) Regards, Kurt OKC,OK RV6A, 165 hours RV Flight Bag Description: Custom RV Flight Bag (Fits RV-6/7/9) This custom flight bag was designed to fit behind the pilots and co-pilots seat of the RV-6/7/9. It fits over the flap actuator bar and makes maximum use of the area behind your seat, keeps the CG as forward as possible and maximizes remaining cargo space. It's 18in high and 12.5in wide. It has a very large main cargo area easily accessible with a large zipper flap. There are two side pockets, one 10" x 4 " and a 7" x 5 1/2 in map pocket. The rear side of the bag has a pencil/flashlight/fuel tester pocket, a 10in x 7in headset pocket, and a 6inx 5 1/4in pocket for small tools. The material and zippers are heavy duty and will last a long time. It has a nice carrying handle and comes with two straps that can be attached to your seat back to clip the bag to your seat to minimize movement. If you are interested in ordering one for your RV drop me a note at BisonMountain(at)yahoo.com. The cost is $89 ($85 for two or more) plus shipping to your address. Currently the only colors they have are black and gray. Its a nice way to clean up the cargo area and looks Chart Case Product Description: As you know, the key to keeping everything you need within reach in a small cockpit can be a challenge to say the least. Our new Chart Case is designed to fit on the floor, between the pilot and passenger, of your RV or production aircraft. It allows your approach charts, enroute charts, sectionals, WAC's, pencils, flashlights, hand held radios, and other miscellaneous items to be stored in easy reach without having to climb over your seat to reach items in your cargo area. The Chart Case is 10.5 inches long, 8.75 in high, and 4.5 in wide and weighs 1 pound, 4 oz. The main compartment has a durable double zipper that allows full access to the interior. The Chart Case has 410 cubic inches of storage area and comes with a divider that can be adjusted to hold any combination of items. The divider is adjustable to any number of dimensions and will create 2 interior pockets as small as 2 inches on one side and 8 on the other and every dimension in between. The divider can also be removed to make the bag one large compartment. The interior divider and main compartment double zipper also allows one top compartment to remain open for often used items (approach charts), and the remaining compartment zipped closed. The extra portion of the top cover is tucked neatly next to the divider and less used items are out of view and your cockpit will look sharp and organized. .The Chart Case has two side map pockets designed to fit checklists, flight computers, calculators, sectionals, WAC's, and Jeppesen or NOS enroute charts. Both of these pockets have Velcro straps to keep your items locked in while transporting the Chart Case. The rear pocket of the Chart Case has a zippered 4 inch by 6.5 inch pocket for just about anything. The front of the Chart Case has a multi-purpose holder for pens, pencils, smaller flashlights, and fuel strainers. Attached to the front of the case is a durable carrying handle that makes inserting and removing the Chart Case simple. A removable over the shoulder carrying strap is also included. The chart case is made of the same durable Curdura material found in our RV Flight Bags and is also available in grey and black. The Bison Mountain Chart Case sells for $49. Two or more can be purchased for $45 each. If you would like an order form simply email us at: BisonMountain(at)yahoo.com --------------------------------- Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us. --------------------------------- Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV- Flight Bags- Review
Date: Jun 12, 2007
I purchased the RV flight bags and chart case from Bison Mountain after seeing them in my friends 7. Previously, I had all of my essential stuff in 3 of the small tool bags from Sears. Other stuff was in the pocket attached to the rear of my seats (Flightline Interior). After getting the flight bags and transferring the stuff I realized I had considerably more space in the bags to carry more stuff!!!! I set them up so all of the stuff I might need every flight was in the left bag (chocks, pitot cover, gust lock etc..). The right bag has tools, fix a flat, tie downs etc... The bags fit very nicely behind the seats of the side by side models. They are tapered to match the angle of the seat back. There is no wasted space. My baggage area is now very neat with much more space. There are many exterior pockets that are easy accessible for the stuff you use for preflight and other minor maintenance items. One of the nice things I really like is the bags are designed with a trough in the bottom that fits over the flap actuation bar. Setting bags on the bar has always concerned me about adding a little undue friction on the bar. There are many ways to set the bags up. You could easily fit everything you need in one bag and use the other one as your "luggage" for personal stuff. It would make one bag heavy but could easily be done. They come with shoulder straps and attachment hardware. I also purchased the chart bag and am still working on an exact location for it. I like the betweent the seat location and will likely leave it there. At first glance the bags seem a little pricey. However these bags are of a very heavy and durable material. (Not heavy in weight but heavy in gauge) The zippers are heavy duty as well. The overall quality is well worth the cost. Most importantly the functionalality of the bags is well worth the price. Definitely designed for the purpose. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robin" <BigMotors(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Aircraft Batteries
Date: Jun 12, 2007
I would like to know if a sealed battery like used in a car would be ok for an aircraft. Does anyone know? Has anyone tried to use a sealed car battery in their plane? I have drove up over the mountains as high as 15,000 feet and had no problems with the battery in my car so why not use the same battery in an aircraft? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Batteries
Date: Jun 12, 2007
I use the Odyssey battery in my plane (RV-6A) Ron Lee ----- Original Message ----- From: Robin To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2007 9:46 AM Subject: RV-List: Aircraft Batteries I would like to know if a sealed battery like used in a car would be ok for an aircraft. Does anyone know? Has anyone tried to use a sealed car battery in their plane? I have drove up over the mountains as high as 15,000 feet and had no problems with the battery in my car so why not use the same battery in an aircraft? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV- Flight Bags- Review
Date: Jun 12, 2007
Hey Darwin, I notice you said you put fix a flat in your tool bag. I would not recommend using that in your plane as I have heard it can and has caused a very out of balance tire which can cause consideral damage to your aircraft on landing. Good flying, Paul Rice RV8 flying, 12 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: Darwin N. Barrie<mailto:ktlkrn(at)cox.net> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2007 10:13 AM Subject: RV-List: RV- Flight Bags- Review I purchased the RV flight bags and chart case from Bison Mountain after seeing them in my friends 7. Previously, I had all of my essential stuff in 3 of the small tool bags from Sears. Other stuff was in the pocket attached to the rear of my seats (Flightline Interior). After getting the flight bags and transferring the stuff I realized I had considerably more space in the bags to carry more stuff!!!! I set them up so all of the stuff I might need every flight was in the left bag (chocks, pitot cover, gust lock etc..). The right bag has tools, fix a flat, tie downs etc... The bags fit very nicely behind the seats of the side by side models. They are tapered to match the angle of the seat back. There is no wasted space. My baggage area is now very neat with much more space. There are many exterior pockets that are easy accessible for the stuff you use for preflight and other minor maintenance items. One of the nice things I really like is the bags are designed with a trough in the bottom that fits over the flap actuation bar. Setting bags on the bar has always concerned me about adding a little undue friction on the bar. There are many ways to set the bags up. You could easily fit everything you need in one bag and use the other one as your "luggage" for personal stuff. It would make one bag heavy but could easily be done. They come with shoulder straps and attachment hardware. I also purchased the chart bag and am still working on an exact location for it. I like the betweent the seat location and will likely leave it there. At first glance the bags seem a little pricey. However these bags are of a very heavy and durable material. (Not heavy in weight but heavy in gauge) The zippers are heavy duty as well. The overall quality is well worth the cost. Most importantly the functionalality of the bags is well worth the price. Definitely designed for the purpose. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ator?RV-List> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
Subject: antenna location
Date: Jun 12, 2007
I would avoid getting an antenna too close to the prop. I've done this mistake more than once under an aircraft with belly mounts; it would make for some odd behavior with comm. antennas. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2007
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Batteries
Robin wrote: > I would like to know if a sealed battery like used in a car would be > ok for an aircraft. Does anyone know? Has anyone tried to use a > sealed car battery in their plane? I have drove up over the mountains > as high as 15,000 feet and had no problems with the battery in my car > so why not use the same battery in an aircraft? Robin, a sealed automotive battery should function fine in an aircraft but the main advantage of the Odyssey batteries is their big cranking capacity combined with relatively light weight and small package. I first had the Concorde RG 25 in my RV-6, but now have the Odyssey 680 because it is smaller, lighter, and just as powerful. It can also be mounted in any position except upside down. Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2007
From: carlos <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Batteries
Ron Lee wrote: > I use the Odyssey battery in my plane (RV-6A) > > Ron Lee > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Robin > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 12, 2007 9:46 AM > *Subject:* RV-List: Aircraft Batteries > > I would like to know if a sealed battery like used in a car would > be ok for an aircraft. > Does anyone know? > Has anyone tried to use a sealed car battery in their plane? > I have drove up over the mountains as high as 15,000 feet and had > no problems with the battery in my car so why not use the same > battery in an aircraft? > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > * > > * > > > * > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Sealed Odyssey PC680 for my PL-1 and I'll be using one for my -7A. 15 lbs and plenty of power. Carlos in AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robin" <BigMotors(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Aircraft Battery
Date: Jun 12, 2007
I thank everyone for helping me with this battery issue. I will get an Odyssey battery because of it's light weight and it is safer in case of breakage. I'll just have to suffer the extra cost knowing it is for a good cause. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Trevor" <davist(at)xsinet.co.za>
Subject: Stuck main wheels
Date: Jun 12, 2007
Today I fitted the main wheels to the axle on my -7. The left went on and off no problem, however the right went on ok but would not come off, no matter how much tugging and thumping. It seems as tho the bearing is catching on the threads. Gets so far but will not budge any further ( with the spacer there is about 1/4" of thread showing) The disturbing part is that it comes fairly easily to this point, then there is a definate "clunk" (like hitting a stop). I have tried putting on the nut and tightening it all up, hoping that it might re-align the bearing but to no avail. Nut goes on smoothly, shaft was sanded and greased beforehand. The cotter pin hole has not been drilled. Quite a mystery! Will undo the circlip tomorrow and try and coax the bearing out but if anyone has any better ideas I would appreciate hearing them. Thanks Trevor Davis - South Africa ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2007
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Battery
Robin wrote: > I thank everyone for helping me with this battery issue. I will get > an Odyssey battery because of it's light weight and it is safer in > case of breakage. I'll just have to suffer the extra cost knowing it > is for a good cause. Oh.....so you weren't asking about a true "sealed" automotive battery but a wet battery. I definitely would not recommend any battery that contains liquid electrolyte...aircraft, automotive, or otherwise. You made a good choice with the Odyssey. If you want to save some money, and you will be operating in a mild climate, you might consider one of the sealed "generic" batteries: http://thervjournal.com/battery.htm Enjoy your RV-3! Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Porter" <december29(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Date: Jun 12, 2007
----- Original Message ----- From: Konrad L. Werner To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 3:22 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) (WARNING AGAIN & AGAIN, this one is possibly long winded, hopefully somewhat informative & perhaps entertaining to some) Hi there George (what is your last name anyway?) I've got some spare time this afternoon to answer your logic, so here it goes: Konrad: Interesting but a few things. I did not say or intend that the NTSB examples had anything to do with drag race crank evacuation via exhaust failures or accidents. >> So why bring them up then? If anyone wants to read any UN-related NTSB reports about someone elses accidents, then they can do so at will and at their topics of choice. But you certainly took the time to find these accident reports, and now you say these reports have nothing to do with the topic we were discussing... What were you thinking? ...a bit confused? In fact these Drag Vents are just NOT done in most cars. It's made for drag racers with open pipes only. >> This statement is so absolutely NOT true. They are ALSO used in drag racers, as well as other efficient performance engines of many kinds, including aviation engines (can you believe that???) The reason they are not done in most cars may have more to do with governmentally implied emission control then anything else. Now I'm not saying in can't or won't work on a little plane, but my point of posting the NTSB reports is, if (Big IF) your crank vent gets blocked for whatever the reason in the exhaust pipe or out of the pipe, it can be BAD. Agree? >> I agree that if the crankvent get's blocked then you are in for a surprise landing. But we were talking about the "improvement" of breathing, which is the exact opposite of what you are talking about... Your idea of "Tees" and all kind of stuff just makes me think, why. KISS principle. You know what that is, Keep It Simple Stupid. Keep it light, cheap, simpler, quicker to build and easier to maintain......and so on. >> One has to be able to get a clear understanding of the idea at hand. But if it is beyond grasp, then I certainly recommend to follow your rule: Keep It Simple, Stupid... I can't see why your idea might not work, but it sounds odd. No offense it just does not sound right off the top of my head, but it may be brilliant. >> I agree with you there, it sure is a brilliant idea! But I don't think I can take credit for it, as most of what I have learned throughout live I've highly likely learned from someone else that went there before me, and I always listen to people smarter then me when it comes to a subject of interest. But I can certainly understand that the idea may sound odd to someone not 100% familiar with the intricate interactive workings of a liquid fueled internal combustion powerplant that turns flaming hot air into rotational forces. There are operators, and then there are Mechanics... Again I am a KISS principle guy. I fly big jets and have an engineering background, so I appreciate complicated systems and creativity; its just not needed in my opinion. >> You fly big jets, yet you believe in KISS??? What is simple about complex jets? I don't know anything about your engineering background, nor do I care, but I have seen an aeronautical engineer try to cut a piece of sheet metal stock with a hacksaw once, and it was extremely entertaining for us all to watch, although the part became unusable for the project we worked on, so I made a new one for him. Needless to say, he did not earn our respect, but he knew his formula's. But his calculations took longer then for us to build the parts with grass roots engineering. Therefore, by you having an engineering background of whatever kind does not impress me much at all, as many people can study for a test and pass it without ever gaining a clear understanding of the subject matter at hand. However, I do truly care about the Wilbur's, Orville's, Ben's, Bob's & Rutan type of engineers. True hands-on Experimenters, ...not bookworms that hide behind a calculator, pen or PC. My motto or mantra is "Build It Per the Plans". >> Hmmm, question: Who drew the plans, and when? If it was a human then I'd like to know if it was on a grumpy Monday morning after a great weekend, or on Friday afternoon just before TGIF... And did they like their job and get along with their Boss, or were they on their way out already anyway? But if the person drawing the plans was a good engineer, then I bet they had to experiment to come up with the final plans. You have no way you can guarantee your special drag race adapted crank sucker vent into exhaust deal will never get blocked or fail in some way you have not thought of. >> I am not sure where you get the notion that I am into drag racing. If you would have paid attention then you would have figured out that my ideas are more about improving overall engine performance while at the same time making an engine more fuel efficient. I am not interested in short burst of power, but rather powerful endurance with reliablilty. About any guarantees: The only thing I care to guarantee you in this life is that death is pretty much unavoidable, ...and taxes of course. Again referring to my first sentence, do what you want, it's experimental. >> How come you participate on these lists anyway? The term "Experimental" does not fit you, and you discourage experimenting by WARNING people about something that you have never done, -nor would ever do. So how credible are your comments really? How did we ever get to the moon (and back!!!) or around the world without refueling Voyager? Hmm... Performance: Another point (I am just making up), blocking exhaust pipe flow with a vent may lower engine performance. >> Does it really? But how would we know for sure? There is just one way to find out (and it is certainly not your way)... A 1/2" tube sticking into the exhaust pipe, which is what the drag-race kits supply, may lower engine performance. You have to drill that 1/2" hole into the pipe and weld the tube into the exhaust pipe, that extends a good bit into the exhaust flow. Now in a BIG drag race header with +3" tubes it may not be a big deal, we have 1.75" dia exhaust typically. Our smaller pipe with a 1/2" tube extending into it can't be great for flow, thus HP, at least at high power. >> This 1/2" tube all-by-itself "may" restrict exhaust flow ever so slightly, but once this pipe is hooked up for scavenging purposes of the crankcase, then the resultant overall power-increase more then overcomes the cost of doing business. The same is true for Turbo- & Superchargers. Can you imagine the immense exhaust restriction which the turbine wheel of my Cummins Turbo Diesel poses inside the exhaust stream of my Dodge Ram. But this allows it to exert energy from an otherwise wasted source of dirty hot air and then it actually turns this nearly gone energy into boost to feed that bitchin' motor with compressed air, thereby increasing its output immensely. And the Cummins boys only found that out by (dare I say it...) EXPERIMENTING with their engines! Can you tell that I love my Cummins, ...especially when it is singing under full boost going uphill whilst accelerating with a heavy load towed behind. My RV has 4-into-1 with 1.75" pipes going into a 2.25" collector, but the large collector is mostly outside the airplane. A tube hanging off the collector outside the cowl would cause drag and look odd. I just can't see drilling big 1/2" hole into my exhaust pipe, but more power to you. (no pun intended) >> You must be kidding me, you actually have 4>1 headers on your plane and don't use it to create vacuum! That is so sad & even shameful... Let me know when your RV-4 comes up for sale, as it may be a decent platform to get started with hotrodding... you know, the dangerous kind!!! It is never too late to improve that little sucker (no pun intended either) Cheers George ATP/CFI-II-ME, MSME, RV4/7, B7375767 (Is that the new Boeing Triple-Decker?) Konrad (definitely NOT an ATPCFIIIMEMSMERV4/7B7375767KISS kinda guy). Now have yourself a nice Sunday, and don't take my opinions too personal. Disclaimer: No one should try to modify any engine or its associated systems, unless they have a clear understanding of the potential consequences these modifications may result in !!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2007
From: kirt klevin <rv6aokcity(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV- Flight Bags- Review
Darwin, Thanks for the great review. We have had an outstanding response to our bags and so far no negative comments on design or quality. We are coming out with some other bags in the next few months, so stay tuned..!! Kurt "Darwin N. Barrie" wrote: I purchased the RV flight bags and chart case from Bison Mountain after seeing them in my friends 7. Previously, I had all of my essential stuff in 3 of the small tool bags from Sears. Other stuff was in the pocket attached to the rear of my seats (Flightline Interior). After getting the flight bags and transferring the stuff I realized I had considerably more space in the bags to carry more stuff!!!! I set them up so all of the stuff I might need every flight was in the left bag (chocks, pitot cover, gust lock etc..). The right bag has tools, fix a flat, tie downs etc... The bags fit very nicely behind the seats of the side by side models. They are tapered to match the angle of the seat back. There is no wasted space. My baggage area is now very neat with much more space. There are many exterior pockets that are easy accessible for the stuff you use for preflight and other minor maintenance items. One of the nice things I really like is the bags are designed with a trough in the bottom that fits over the flap actuation bar. Setting bags on the bar has always concerned me about adding a little undue friction on the bar. There are many ways to set the bags up. You could easily fit everything you need in one bag and use the other one as your "luggage" for personal stuff. It would make one bag heavy but could easily be done. They come with shoulder straps and attachment hardware. I also purchased the chart bag and am still working on an exact location for it. I like the betweent the seat location and will likely leave it there. At first glance the bags seem a little pricey. However these bags are of a very heavy and durable material. (Not heavy in weight but heavy in gauge) The zippers are heavy duty as well. The overall quality is well worth the cost. Most importantly the functionalality of the bags is well worth the price. Definitely designed for the purpose. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ --------------------------------- Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robin" <BigMotors(at)comcast.net>
Subject:
Date: Jun 12, 2007
I have one more question, How much paint does it take to cover an RV aircraft? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robin" <BigMotors(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Filler
Date: Jun 12, 2007
I am about to attempt to put on some Epoxy Filler called Superfil that I bought from Aircraft Spruce. The question I have is how do I prepare the surface of the aluminum? I'm afraid to scratch it up with sandpaper like you would do to make auto body bondo to stick to a car. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2007
From: carlos <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Subject: Re: Filler
Robin wrote: > I am about to attempt to put on some Epoxy Filler called Superfil > that I bought from Aircraft Spruce. > The question I have is how do I prepare the surface of the > aluminum? I'm afraid to scratch it up with sandpaper like you would > do to make auto body bondo to stick to a car. > > * > > > * > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > I'm doing the tips on my empannage now. That is exactly what you need to do for good adhesion to the metal. If not, I think that it would peel off the aluminum skins. Carlos in AZ -7A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Filler
Date: Jun 12, 2007
Robin, Have at it with the 80 grit sandpaper. You do the same thing with aluminum. Hard to make yourself do it but thats the way it is. Mike Robertson Repeat Offender From: BigMotors(at)comcast.netTo: RV-List(at)matronics.comSubject: RV-List: Fille rDate: Tue, 12 Jun 2007 16:43:00 -0500 I am about to attempt to put on some Epoxy Filler called Superfil that I b ought from Aircraft Spruce. The question I have is how do I prepare the surface of the aluminum? I 'm afraid to scratch it up with sandpaper like you would do to make auto bo dy bondo to stick to a car. _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail to go? Get your Hotmail, news, sports and much more! Check out the New MSN Mobile! http://mobile.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List:
Date: Jun 12, 2007
Rough area because I don't know what your paint scheme is but if you did it all in one coler it would be between 1.5 to 2 gallons. I repeat this is j ust a very rough ball park figure. Mike Robertson From: BigMotors(at)comcast.netTo: RV-List(at)matronics.comSubject: RV-List: Date: I have one more question, How much paint does it take to cover an RV aircra ft? _________________________________________________________________ Make every IM count. Download Windows Live Messenger and join the i=92m Ini tiative now. It=92s free.-- http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGWL_June07 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Filler
Date: Jun 12, 2007
In most of such coverings the rule is nothing shiny or glossy. I like 150 grit, some prefer 80. Protect the margins with tape, etc. 3 inch minimum protection. Amazing how abrasives wander about. dale _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2007 5:43 PM Subject: RV-List: Filler I am about to attempt to put on some Epoxy Filler called Superfil that I bought from Aircraft Spruce. The question I have is how do I prepare the surface of the aluminum? I'm afraid to scratch it up with sandpaper like you would do to make auto body bondo to stick to a car. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2007
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: Stuck main wheels
On 06/12 9:23, Trevor wrote: > Today I fitted the main wheels to the axle on my -7. The left went on and > off no problem, however the right went on ok but would not come off, no > matter how much tugging and thumping. It seems as tho the bearing is > catching on the threads. Gets so far but will not budge any further ( > with the spacer there is about 1/4" of thread showing) The disturbing > part is that it comes fairly easily to this point, then there is a > definate "clunk" (like hitting a stop). I have tried putting on the nut > and tightening it all up, hoping that it might re-align the bearing but to > no avail. Nut goes on smoothly, shaft was sanded and greased beforehand. > The cotter pin hole has not been drilled. Quite a mystery! > > Will undo the circlip tomorrow and try and coax the bearing out but if > anyone has any better ideas I would appreciate hearing them. Hi Trevor, Mine was a bit tight as well and did get stuck (both). My solution was to slightly hone the axle with a scotch-brite pad until they went on smoothly. There may be specs of powder coating on the shaft as well keeping it from sliding on all the way. -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying! http://www.evorocket.com - Building ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2007
From: "Bill Gunn" <WGUNN(at)dot.state.tx.us>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Batteries
I have had good success with a recumbent gas wheelchair battery, purchased from a local supplier, about $65.00. I get a 35 amp/hour unit that fits the box of my RV 4, no maintenance, no problems in 10 years, as long as I change it out every third year. Bill Gunn, TxDOT Aviation Division ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Batteries
Date: Jun 13, 2007
Bill ... many thanks for your info, do you have the width, depth and height of your 35ah battery along with the weight? Jerry Grimmonpre RV8A Huntley IL > > I have had good success with a recumbent gas wheelchair battery, purchased > from a local supplier, about $65.00. I get a 35 amp/hour unit that fits > the box of my RV 4, no maintenance, no problems in 10 years, as long as I > change it out every third year. > > Bill Gunn, TxDOT Aviation Division ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Trevor" <davist(at)xsinet.co.za>
Subject: Stuck main wheels
Date: Jun 13, 2007
Thanks Walter - Thats exactly what I did after removing the bearing by placing the wheel between two supports and using the rivet gun on the axle to coax it off! The perplexing part was that I scotch-brited the axle the first time - obviously not enough - and the bearings fitted ok on the shaft when tested. I did find afterwards that the outer bearing had a smaller diameter than the inner!!! Subject: Re: RV-List: Stuck main wheels > > On 06/12 9:23, Trevor wrote: > > > Today I fitted the main wheels to the axle on my -7. The left went > > on and > > off no problem, however the right went on ok but would not come off, > > no > > matter how much tugging and thumping.> Hi Trevor, > > Mine was a bit tight as well and did get stuck (both). My solution was > to slightly hone the axle with a scotch-brite pad until they went on > smoothly. There may be specs of powder coating on the shaft as well > keeping it from sliding on all the way. > > -- > Walter Tondu > http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying! > http://www.evorocket.com - Building > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2007
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
>From: "John Porter" <december29(at)bellsouth.net> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) > >blaaa blaaa blaaa blaaa blaaa and blaaa. No comment, but did notice a couple of pot shots & stupid insults. That's just rude, snide and un-gentlemanly rhetoric. It indicates how weak your technical argument is when you go to personal attacks. I have little respect for that. If you want to add something that is not needed, adds weight and blocks the free flow of your exhaust, ace, fine. Do IT and just shut up about it. You throw out all kind of "facts" but don't support it: What factory planes have crank-case exhaust vent systems? What is the benefit? Less wind-age? ......Prove it. It's not a matter of understanding the super-wonder-crank-vent- exhaust-tee-system, so I challenge you: -Draw it up, -Make it, -Fight test it and -Publish the results and design Convince me and everyone all the weight, cost, fabrication time is worth it, not to mention adding an exhaust restriction. What is the design? An off the shelf Moroso / Mr. Gasket set up, home-grown set up with a "0.125" pill? Tell me. Crank vent is a critical system so you better be right. Since YOU are telling other builders to do something that affects SAFETY, I am all ears. You are the big man telling everyone how great this is and safe, so prove it. I'm not as smart as you, so when you have 1000 hours on it, write me and I'll do it. In the mean time I'll have my simple vent crank vent system the puts little or no oil on the belly. What is the inches of water in the crank, vent and pipe at full power sea level and WOT at 16,000 feet. You better put your engineer hat on before you tell people what to do that is 180 degrees from the standard. Never said is would not work or has zero value, but is it needed? Does it really reduce oil on the belly? I bet at altitude with LOW temps, low air pressure and high velocity exhaust it may just spit more oil out further down the belly. May be it's the best thing ever! so drill 1/2" holes in your pipe because some dude "John Porter" says do it, but he has never done it himself. So I'm the dumb one for not jumping on this break-through. That is what I thought. Doha! Sorry if I offend you because I am keeping my vent like most of the other 5,000 RV's and +250,000 piston plane crank vents around the world, and I highly recommend all do the same, KISS. Last, only smart people under stand the KISS principle. Simple designs are best. Any professional designer will tell you that its more elegant to make it simple, not more compacted because you can. Every ounce weight has to earn its way onto my plane. This is why builders end up with 1,200 lb empty weight RV's. Wise man said: "Build it per the plans, keep it simple & light." Cheers George RV-4/RV-7 PS: 7375767 is short hand for B737, B757, B767, a few current type ratings. --------------------------------- Got a little couch potato? Check out fun summer activities for kids. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Last call for the RV OSH BBQ
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: Jun 13, 2007
This evening we reached 352 registrations for the RV BBQ at Oshkosh, topping the limit we set of 350 people. With expected neighbors and miscounts, this should give us about 400 attendees. There's no way we could handle any more than that, especially with 150+ "didn't tell you we were comings" that we had last year, so the BBQ is now a 'sellout.' To go larger would, I think, ruin the grassroots nature of the event that has made it such a favorite for many people in very short order. If you didn't get your registration in, I'm sorry but we look forward to seeing you next year. Now, onto the planning. and a few chants for good weather wouldn't hurt. -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://rvhotline.expercraft.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118342#118342 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave" <dave(at)coltnet.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin Foretrex 101
Date: Jun 13, 2007
Where is everyone finding the 50 dollar garmin fortrex 101? Dave DNA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 14, 2007
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
No I did not miss the point. The point is if you suck on the crankcase you will change the way the rings seat and possibly cause greater friction and less oil flow, increasing wear. That is what drag racers use it for, to increase ring seating pressure. I did not know my Lycoming needed that. (does not) You missed the point that some one said "wind-age" or oil spray will be reduced and this will make more HP (they guess but I doubt it). A Lycoming relies on oil splash or "wind-age" to lubricate the cam and the accessory gears to name a few items. Do you want to suck more air out and reduce the oil mist in the engine? (no, I want my cam lubed) The point someone made about kind of matching what a stock vent would do with a Tee and valves. WHY? If you are not going to pull down the pressure or create a vacuum in the crankcase (verses the slight positive pressure we now have) than WHY DO IT? (please tell me) Do what you like, accept or ignore my opinion or concerns and leave off the snide personal comments, thanks. I think you Mr. Butler should put it on your plane; run a big garden hose into your exhaust pipe thru a 1/2" hole. By the way you will possibly block up to 20% of you exhaust with the vent tube protruding in there. EGP (exhaust gas pressure), pressure wave and savaging will be affected. May be a small amount but the super suck vent will make so much power, I was told, it would be like a "turbo-charger". Right, good luck. I'm not against experiments; take some data and let everyone know the gain you got. I say you will add weight, complexity and it'll do nothing special to justify its use. Also no one can prove its safe. I heard of a 0.125" dia "pill"? If that is an orifice for the crank vent, than that does not sound good, as it could easily be blocked. May be I missed the point. The final point is there is NO DESIGN or standard for this concept, just words and guessing. If some one has a proven design, whether off the shelf drag race stuff or home made, than they should test it and than present their findings. Never said DON'T do it; I am not an authoritarian; I'm liberal, in that you are free to do as you like; I JUST WANT FOLKS TO BE SAFE and that is the POINT. I've been around airplanes long enough to know, you better have a good reason for fixing something that is not broke. I'd feel bad if someone busted their derrire & I didn't say something. Cheers George >From: Sherman Butler lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) > >George, I'm sorry, but you have missed the point. > >>gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote: >> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) >> >>blaaa blaaa blaaa blaaa blaaa and blaaa. >> >>No comment, but did notice a couple of pot shots & stupid insults. >>That's just rude, snide and un-gentlemanly rhetoric. It indicates >>how weak your technical argument is when you go to personal >>attacks. I have little respect for that. > > >Sherman Butler >RV-7a Wings >Idaho Falls --------------------------------- Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Date: Jun 14, 2007
Dear someone out there without a Last Name, I can't resist to ask a question: What did a Mr. John Porter say to you for you to say the following about him: >>...because some dude "John Porter" says do it, but he has never done it himself...<< (just see below) I was following this thread very closely, but have to admit that I may have missed Mr. Porters comments to you. PLEASE DO fill me in on what he said to you for you to respond to him the way you did, IF YOU CAN ??? Thanks G... Sincerely, Konrad (definitely NOT an ATPCFIIIMEMSMERV4/7B7375767KISS kinda guy). ----- Original Message ----- From: gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com ; december29(at)bellsouth.net Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 4:14 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) >From: "John Porter" <december29(at)bellsouth.net> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) > >blaaa blaaa blaaa blaaa blaaa and blaaa. No comment, but did notice a couple of pot shots & stupid insults. That's just rude, snide and un-gentlemanly rhetoric. It indicates how weak your technical argument is when you go to personal attacks. I have little respect for that. If you want to add something that is not needed, adds weight and blocks the free flow of your exhaust, ace, fine. Do IT and just shut up about it. You throw out all kind of "facts" but don't support it: What factory planes have crank-case exhaust vent systems? What is the benefit? Less wind-age? ......Prove it. It's not a matter of understanding the super-wonder-crank-vent- exhaust-tee-system, so I challenge you: -Draw it up, -Make it, -Fight test it and -Publish the results and design Convince me and everyone all the weight, cost, fabrication time is worth it, not to mention adding an exhaust restriction. What is the design? An off the shelf Moroso / Mr. Gasket set up, home-grown set up with a "0.125" pill? Tell me. Crank vent is a critical system so you better be right. Since YOU are telling other builders to do something that affects SAFETY, I am all ears. You are the big man telling everyone how great this is and safe, so prove it. I'm not as smart as you, so when you have 1000 hours on it, write me and I'll do it. In the mean time I'll have my simple vent crank vent system the puts little or no oil on the belly. What is the inches of water in the crank, vent and pipe at full power sea level and WOT at 16,000 feet. You better put your engineer hat on before you tell people what to do that is 180 degrees from the standard. Never said is would not work or has zero value, but is it needed? Does it really reduce oil on the belly? I bet at altitude with LOW temps, low air pressure and high velocity exhaust it may just spit more oil out further down the belly. May be it's the best thing ever! so drill 1/2" holes in your pipe because some dude "John Porter" says do it, but he has never done it himself. So I'm the dumb one for not jumping on this break-through. That is what I thought. Doha! Sorry if I offend you because I am keeping my vent like most of the other 5,000 RV's and +250,000 piston plane crank vents around the world, and I highly recommend all do the same, KISS. Last, only smart people under stand the KISS principle. Simple designs are best. Any professional designer will tell you that its more elegant to make it simple, not more compacted because you can. Every ounce weight has to earn its way onto my plane. This is why builders end up with 1,200 lb empty weight RV's. Wise man said: "Build it per the plans, keep it simple & light." Cheers George RV-4/RV-7 PS: 7375767 is short hand for B737, B757, B767, a few current type ratings. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Got a little couch potato? Check out fun summer activities for kids. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2007
From: Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
George, If I was really concerned, perhaps a mission profie of around the world no-stop, I would calculate an exhaust velocity based on rpm, displacement and temperature change, to develop a pressure profile and a estimate of the effect on crankcase pressure. Perhaps You can do this using the scrabble after your name rather than throw rocks. I am pleased that as an ATP you have "the sky is falling" approach to his passengers' safety. When I get to this point on my airplane I will review my options. I however, am loading the G-35 to camp overnight at U87 with my sweetie. That is what is important to me. Do Not archive Sherman Butler RV-7a Wings Idaho Falls --------------------------------- Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Grant Neilson" <grantneilson(at)telus.net>
Subject: Connector for copilot stick grip
Date: Jun 15, 2007
I'm setting up dual trim and dual PTT in my RV9A using RAC pistol grips on both pilot & copilot sides, but would still like to remove the copilot stick once in a while when the wife stays home and I want to carry extra baggage on the passenger side. I'm wondering what others have done to allow quick disconnect and removal of the copilot stick. The inside diameter of the stick is about 3/4 inch, and I would need a six pin (circular?) connector. Any photos of others' efforts and sources for such a connector would be greatly appreciated. Grant Neilson Campbell River, B.C. RV9A, wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Artex 406 ELT
Date: Jun 15, 2007
Van's sells this ELT but the catalog is marked "Not approved for use in CANADA." Can anyone tell me why? If, based I in the USA, I install one of these but later travel over the boarder with Canada, will I have to have something else? What say y'all? Marty in Brentwood RV-6A finishing and finishing and finishing.....aka fiberglass work. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2007
From: "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Connector for copilot stick grip
I found a nice little 2-prong connector at Radio Shack the fit nicely inside the stick. Works fine. -- David Leonard Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net http://RotaryRoster.net On 6/15/07, Grant Neilson wrote: > > > I'm setting up dual trim and dual PTT in my RV9A using RAC pistol grips > on > both pilot & copilot sides, but would still like to remove the copilot > stick > once in a while when the wife stays home and I want to carry extra baggage > on the passenger side. I'm wondering what others have done to allow quick > disconnect and removal of the copilot stick. The inside diameter of the > stick is about 3/4 inch, and I would need a six pin (circular?) connector. > Any photos of others' efforts and sources for such a connector would be > greatly appreciated. > > Grant Neilson > Campbell River, B.C. > RV9A, wiring > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Connector for copilot stick grip
Date: Jun 16, 2007
Grant, here is what I did. Simple DB9 connection above the slip joint. With the seat pans in, connection does not hit anything and works in the open area u-shaped area of the seats. I have a four way hat switch, PTT, and CWS for the AP. Hope this helps. Bill S 7a Ark -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Grant Neilson Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 5:32 PM Subject: RV-List: Connector for copilot stick grip I'm setting up dual trim and dual PTT in my RV9A using RAC pistol grips on both pilot & copilot sides, but would still like to remove the copilot stick once in a while when the wife stays home and I want to carry extra baggage on the passenger side. I'm wondering what others have done to allow quick disconnect and removal of the copilot stick. The inside diameter of the stick is about 3/4 inch, and I would need a six pin (circular?) connector. Any photos of others' efforts and sources for such a connector would be greatly appreciated. Grant Neilson Campbell River, B.C. RV9A, wiring ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2007
From: Ralph Hoover <hooverra(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Connector for copilot stick grip
Grant, I used a PS2 extension cable cut in half which gives you 6 wires and fits nicely inside the stick the extra cable that allows you to align the plugs also holds things together when installed. I drilled a 3/16 hole through the stick and socket (one wall of each) A pin (PEM standoff from the junk box) attached to a hose clamp secures the stick. When I'm home I'll get a picture. -- Ralph C. Hoover RV7A hooverra at verizon dot net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Connector for copilot stick grip
Date: Jun 16, 2007
Hi Grant- Re: I'm wondering what others have done to allow quick disconnect and removal of the copilot stick. I got an annular connector from RS. I think it was about 6 pin, and once the outer housing was scrapped, the ass'y fit quite nicely within the copilot stick. Same arrangement to get the elev trim connex through that pesky hole in the elev. glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2007
From: Christopher Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Connector for copilot stick grip
R.e. stick connector Amp Mini Mate-N-Lock Available in 2,4,6,8,10 pin configurations. Small body with secure locking tab. Easy to install. Will handle 16 amps max. We used these for all power and instrument connections to the panel and sticks. Digi-Key has them. Chris Stone Pair of -8's Newberg, OR -----Original Message----- >From: Grant Neilson <grantneilson(at)telus.net> >Sent: Jun 15, 2007 3:32 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Connector for copilot stick grip > > >I'm setting up dual trim and dual PTT in my RV9A using RAC pistol grips on >both pilot & copilot sides, but would still like to remove the copilot stick >once in a while when the wife stays home and I want to carry extra baggage >on the passenger side. I'm wondering what others have done to allow quick >disconnect and removal of the copilot stick. The inside diameter of the >stick is about 3/4 inch, and I would need a six pin (circular?) connector. >Any photos of others' efforts and sources for such a connector would be >greatly appreciated. > >Grant Neilson >Campbell River, B.C. >RV9A, wiring > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2007
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
What? >"Perhaps You can do this using the scrabble after your name > rather than throw rocks. I am pleased that as an ATP you have >"the sky is falling" approach to his passengers' safety. When I >get to this point on my airplane I will review my options." I am not throwing any stones. Me? What is wrong with you people? First Konrad Werner or Wiener spews a mass BS rant rave void of facts now you. I just am sticking to the facts. I love new RV builders. It's a disease with new builders, they are suckers for any gadget. I brought up legate concern and my opinion, I think it's a bad idea. Deal with it. Your sarcasm is noted, but you still can't tell me what it offers over the stock design, besides some rant. >"If I was really concerned, perhaps a mission profie of around the >world no-stop, I would calculate an exhaust velocity based on >rpm, displacement and temperature change, to develop a >pressure profile and a estimate of the effect on crankcase >pressure. Based on the fact you are working on your wings I'm pretty sure you never have installed an engine on a RV before. May be you should learn something first. Not sure where you're going, but it sounds like you suspect more oil loss? (more oil loss is likely with suction) The bottom line is it offers nil improvement over the RV engine installation plan's, which probably you've never seen yet. What has been suggested will be more involved, probably weigh more, cost more and take more time to fabricate and install. Are you going to use a drag race back flow valve? If you have something smart to say than say it, other wise you sound churlish and foolish; geee, you are welcome. Is it possible I have a point? You'll learn I guess later? I have researched it, called Moroso and Lycoming. At least I bring some facts to the discussion and not just rhetoric and personal attacks. You may not like my opinion, fine, but to attack me because I make my living flying makes you sound, juvenile and ridiculous. I helped one guy at the airport with his RV. At one time we had over 20 flying RV's at one field, so we all got lots of experience with RV's. We also did formation flying and dog fighting, great fun. Well this guy was losing oil and lots of it. I looked at his plane and saw his vent tube was not cut at an angle. So I beveled the vent tube at an approx 30-45 degree angle, into the airflow or forward, per Van's plan's, and that solved it. (please do not write and tell me the 45 goes down stream of the free air flow, you're wrong). Get some finishing plans. I suspect many EXPERTS out there throwing temper tantrums have never finished a RV or flown one more than once or twice. I have about 1,200 hours in RV's, so there, I do know more than you. Writing I'm an ATP, fly jets and graduate degree in engineering brings out all the haters. That kind of bigotry, prejudice and ignorance has no place in an intellectual discussion. To make assumptions of my life experience is really quite ignorant. You don't know me. Frankly as petty, rude and immature some of you all sound, I don't want to know you. Many engineers come from a strong mechanical background, that is why they choose the profession. Clearly it is not for the love. It's definitely a difficult curriculum, math, physics, materials, mechanism, design, chemistry, fluid dynamics, statics, dynamics, electrical, vibrations, fatigue, fracture mechanics, composites, manufacturing and many more general and elective courses. However I was building cars, motorcycles and electronics well before I went to engineering school. The sad thing is many have no clue what engineers do, which breeds contempt. Also not everything is "designed" by engineers. On the other hand there are creative people with little education. I don't claim my resume makes me right, but I have built two RV's and helped build and finish several more; I've been at it over 20 years, starting my first RV in the mid 80's when I was in my 20's. One of my RV's, I am proud to say won a workmanship award at the EAA fly-in. I had just finished painting it, and it was pretty. That same plane also beat out higher HP RV's in a spruce aircraft cross country race. I have been a mechanic, built engines (planes, cars, bikes), even worked in a shipyard as a ship-fitter to get money for college. So I do more the crunch numbers and "throw stones". I just don't understand the hate and jealousy, its immature man. Grow up. Flying is a small community and I am the kind of guy that would go out of my way to help you if you needed it. Most people in aviation and especially experimental planes are nice. Sadly as it gets more common, the folks with attitudes come in and just can't be told anything. I wish I was as smart as you when I started out over 20 years go building planes FOR FUN. It is suppose to be fun, relax. >I would calculate a pressure profile and a estimate of the >effect on crankcase pressure. Do you know that the normal crank case pressure is in a Lycoming? I do I've measured it. Do you know how to measure it? I do, and its real cool. I am all ears now; what is the pressure based on exhaust velocity going to be? Frankly you can directly and easily measure it. I would use a RV and go up and flight test it, measure it right off the crank and exhaust. Of course the BUNG you use in the pipe will have huge affect on the suction you pull, not to mention how far down the pipe it is to the exit. One cylinder or past a collector? Lots to think about. I want to see someones design. Draw it up, scan it, post it to a free picture file-share site and post the URL. I want to see how great it is, not to throw stones but to learn or may be copy it, if its brilliant. I also like to know what "extra HP" you get. As far as keeping the belly clean, I doubt it would improve that. A healthy Lyc blurbs little oil out the breather. Again like a broke record the stock set up works well, so why change it. Sorry if I am using logic again, its not fair I know. I'm not going to apologize for cautioning builders to be careful. When it comes to engines, flight controls, structures and critical systems like fuel systems, I am very conservative. Again DO WHAT YOU LIKE. Ignore me and just do it. I don't know what your problem is. You all are like a fanatic that demands I must accept their belief. I don't accept it or do I care what you do any more. According to mr. wiener its going to gain all kinds of HP like a "turbo charger". Right, OK, that's nice. Prove it. Really it's just BS frankly and I laugh, ha ha. For those who do make this modified vent system and want to use a scientific approach, taking some empirical data, I can help. I have ideas for any interested person; you can write me off list. However if all you're going to do is whine and cry like a baby because I'm not thrilled with the idea, your jealous of "college boys" or pilots with ATP's and type ratings, than don't write, you're wasting my time time and everyone else's on the list. I have other people I can help who do appreciate it. Send your hate mail direct, so I can really tell you what I think of you or ignore it, but don't jug up the list with spew. >I however, am loading the G-35 to camp overnight at U87 >with my sweetie. That is what is important to me. ** Look at your Bonanza vent and tell me what you see. ** Flown all over Idaho, spent many a day at Johnson creek 3U2 in my RV camping with my "sweetie". I use to fly for Horizon Air. Cheers George (last name withheld because its none of your business) >From: Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) >George, >If I was really concerned, perhaps a mission profie of around the world no-stop, I would calculate an exhaust velocity based on rpm, displacement and temperature change, to develop a pressure profile and a estimate of the effect on crankcase pressure. Perhaps You can do this using the scrabble after your name rather than throw rocks. I am pleased that as an ATP you have "the sky is falling" approach to his passengers' safety. When I get to this point on my airplane I will review my options. > >I however, am loading the G-35 to camp overnight at U87 >with my sweetie. That is what is important to me. > > >Do Not archive > >Sherman Butler >RV-7a Wings >Idaho Falls --------------------------------- You snooze, you lose. Get messages ASAP with AutoCheck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2007
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: East Coast to Yellowstone!
Several RV's from the east coast went to Cody, WY last week to check out Yellowstone. What an adventure! For me, it ranks right up there with the first flight as far as accomplishments go! Notes, pics and video here: http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2007/06/yellowstone_200.html Enjoy. -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2007
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: East Coast to Yellowstone!
On 06/16 10:36, Larry Bowen wrote: > Several RV's from the east coast went to Cody, WY last week to check out > Yellowstone. What an adventure! For me, it ranks right up there with the > first flight as far as accomplishments go! Notes, pics and video here: > > http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2007/06/yellowstone_200.html Fantastic! Great pictures, naration and video. -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying! http://www.evorocket.com - Building ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PittsS1(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 17, 2007
Subject: Re: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
rv wings ... with you experience its easy ... get a life ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2007
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
While I have made a ton of friends and probably a few enemies on this list and also got to be friends with Matt, our list administrator while testing his fantastic FuelScan unit I think the useful life of the list has come to an end for me. I built my RV-6 and made the first flight on July 14 1989. There are so many beautiful airplanes and neat ideas now that were not thought of when I was building, and the kits have changed drastically over the last twenty years. My RV-6 would be considered archaic by today's standards so for me to have helpful hints for today's builders as a previous builder is not as feasible as it use to be. I have probably stayed longer than I would have if I did not have so much respect for Matt Dralle and the tremendous amount of work he puts into these lists. As the internet has grown over the years there are many resources available to builders so getting any information I may need the future is not a problem. I am really sorry to see how the information on the list has many time turned into long threads about things other than RV's, that have no use to me whatsoever. I am really busy now in the process of getting two homes ready to sell and to start a new life with my "sweetheart" So for the time being anyway I am going to unsubscribe from the RV-List. Hope to see a lot of you at Arlington EAA flyin this July, if you are there come by and say hello. Don't kill each other over things said on this list, life is to short. Signing off Jerry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Date: Jun 16, 2007
Dear George whoever, You still have not answered my question: What did a Mr. John Porter say to you for you to say the following about him: >>...because some dude "John Porter" says do it, but he has never done it himself...<< PLEASE DO fill me in on what he said to you for you to respond to him the way you did, IF YOU CAN??? Most sincerely, Konrad P.S. My last name was always clearly disclosed, contrary to yours... Need new glasses to read properly??? ----- Original Message ----- From: gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com ; lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 7:55 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) What? >"Perhaps You can do this using the scrabble after your name > rather than throw rocks. I am pleased that as an ATP you have >"the sky is falling" approach to his passengers' safety. When I >get to this point on my airplane I will review my options." I am not throwing any stones. Me? What is wrong with you people? First Konrad Werner or Wiener spews a mass BS rant rave void of facts now you. I just am sticking to the facts. I love new RV builders. SNIP------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2007
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
I have a wet vacuum pump pulling set to pull 9" Hg. vacuum on my crankcase thru the breather vent and it works great. My oil consumption went from 1 qt. every 5-7 hours to 1 qt. every 20-25 hours. I have the oil analysis to prove that the cam isn't making any metal due to lack of oil splash and I believe the engine runs smoother, idles lower, and seems to be making some more power but I have no scientific proof of it. I have a flapper door check valve designed into the system so if the vacuum pump quits the breather will vent to ambient. I have about 50 hours on this setup now and it works fine so far. I was advised by two different engine builders who have this setup flying on Reno race aircraft to install a new crank seal backwards to so that the vacuum doesn't draw air in thru the front of the engine and that too has been trouble-free. Based on my experience with the above I highly encourage anyone willing to experiment with pulling a vacuum on the crankcase through the exhaust. There are many aerobatic aircraft flying that are configured this way and work just fine. I've remained silent on this thread up until now, and the only reason is because Mr. Gmcpilot, "God's gift to all things aviation", is involved and thinks he knows more than anyone here and can't acknowledge that an idea or concept does not conform to his thought processes, whatever ever they may be. Its too bad that his sociopathic ramblings overshadow any technical advice he may give, because there is some good information there. There are many other lists he's been on and its been the same story. So Konrad et. all, just ignore him, he'll go away eventually. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Happy Fathersday everyone
Date: Jun 17, 2007
Wishing a VERY HAPPY FATHERS DAYS ...to all you fathers and/or soon to be fathers out there. And to the one's that are not yet fathers, ...just keep trying vigorously and with determination ;-) Enjoy your day, and hopefully you can make it to the airport and fly out to find that $100 Burger!!! Cheers, Konrad ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2007
From: SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: MT Governor drawing anyone?
Anyone out there know where I could find a drawing of an MT P-860-4 prop governor? If not, anybody know how tall it is from mounting flange to arm? Thanks! Scott N4ZW ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2007
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Connector for copilot stick grip
I found a hi quality 12-pin circular connector with a metal shell that is only 1/2" in diameter. I wanted something that would slip thru the 5/8 hole in the wing spar (the mirror image of the one you make for the trim cable). I would have used a DB-9 but that would have made the cable captive (won't fit thru the 5/8 hole). In any case, the connector is made by Hirose (japanese company) and I bought them from digikey. Look for HR1575-ND and HR1563-ND. One's female and the other male. They're $15 + $23 for a pair. They have very tiny pins and are hard to solder to. Unless you have a good fine tip iron and some experience with electronic assembly you will find it very difficult. If you don't need more than 9 pins, don't use the inner 3 in the pattern. If you do need to use them, solder them first! But it's very compact and solid, and I hope reliable. -- Tom S. RV-6A electrical system. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cknauf(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Date: Jun 17, 2007
Arguing on the internet is like being in the Special Olympics...you may win, but you're still a retard.

Arguing on the internet is like being in the Special Olympics...you may win, but you're still a retard.


      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: My apologies to the RV-List...
Date: Jun 17, 2007
To all, I hereby wish to apologize to all the valued members of the Matronics RV-List for my actions of recently engaging in a discussion with-, and therefore increasing the blood pressure up a certain individual. While I normally don't even bother to read his posts in detail anymore, the recent one just didn't let me sit quiet, as it effectively discouraged any experimentation with these fine aircraft and their associated systems. GRANTED, one should really know what he/she is planning to get themselves into, otherwise it may be much better & safer to stay with the plans exactly as written. Therefore, if you clearly understand a certain concept, go for it, if not, then stay away. It is as simple as that! You may either experiment with-, or simply assemble a kit, ... the freedom of choice is certainly yours. My apologies go to the entire List for the waste of your valuable reading time on here. And I would like to apologize especially to Jerry Springer for dragging this on for way longer then it really needed to be, therefore diluting the informative values and the real purpose of the RV-List. I will now RE-join the rest of the Really Good People & Knowledgeable Experimenters on here, and simply ignore the other, disruptive natured kind. GODSPEED to you all, and I wish you very happy Fathers Day! Sincerely, Konrad Werner ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Date: Jun 17, 2007
//Arguing on the internet is like being in the Special Olympics...you may win, but you're still a retard. As the father of the special needs kid, well, never mind. How about everybody stick to posts about building and flying RVs? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Timothy E. Cone" <tcone1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Date: Jun 17, 2007
That's cold-blooded, politically incorrect, and not fair. Comparing retarded people to someone dumb enough to engage in flame wars...not fair to the retarded folks at all. Tim Cone ----- Original Message ----- From: cknauf(at)comcast.net To: rv-list(at)matronics.com ; rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 11:35 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) Arguing on the internet is like being in the Special Olympics...you may win, but you're still a retard. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Duckworks lenses cracking
Date: Jun 17, 2007
Lighting question.... I installed my lights according to instructions - strapping tape, 75 degrees, and all... The lenses were intact through the entire manufacturing process. I put them in fine. Today I was working on the wingtips and needed to remove the light assemblies and found that every screwhole had cracks. Anyone else have this issue? I'm kinda bummed - knowing that subsequent installations will be more difficult and won't be as tight. At a minimum, I need to order a new set of lenses...but I think I need some building advice when it comes to these things...... Thanks, Ralph Capen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Oil - where to buy?
Date: Jun 17, 2007
Where are you getting your oil and filters? I'll be needing some break-in oil and some regular oil for when I restart my Aerosport O360..... Thanks, Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Oil - where to buy?
Date: Jun 18, 2007
I like using Phillips 20-50 mineral oil from Chief Aircraft for break-in. After break-in, I buy AeroShell 15W50 from the local Shell distributor. My filters typically come from SkyGeek or Spruce as the best price does change. I always check to see who has the best prices on RV pricewatch. http://www.rvproject.com/pricewatch.html Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 2,004 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: Oil - where to buy? Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2007 21:39:38 -0400 Where are you getting your oil and filters? I'll be needing some break-in oil and some regular oil for when I restart my Aerosport O360..... Thanks, Ralph _________________________________________________________________ Make every IM count. Download Messenger and join the im Initiative now. Its free. http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_June07 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 17, 2007
Subject: Re: MT Governor drawing anyone?
On the governor, from the bottom mounting surface to the top of the control arm - 5" Jim Ayers In a message dated 06/17/2007 9:46:20 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net writes: Anyone out there know where I could find a drawing of an MT P-860-4 prop governor? If not, anybody know how tall it is from mounting flange to arm? Thanks! Scott N4ZW ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2007
From: "Steve Sampson" <ssamps(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: MT Governor drawing anyone?
At MT. I would think this http://www.mt-propeller.com/pdf/manuals/e-570.pdf is it, or in the index of this family. Steve. On 17/06/07, SCOTT SPENCER wrote: > > Anyone out there know where I could find a drawing of an MT P-860-4 prop > governor? If not, anybody know how tall it is from mounting flange to arm? > > Thanks! > Scott > N4ZW > > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2007
From: "Steve Sampson" <ssamps(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: MT Governor drawing anyone?
Or this one...http://www.mt-propeller.com/pdf/manuals/e-1048.pdf On 18/06/07, Steve Sampson wrote: > > At MT. I would think this > http://www.mt-propeller.com/pdf/manuals/e-570.pdf is it, or in the index > of this family. Steve. > > On 17/06/07, SCOTT SPENCER wrote: > > > > Anyone out there know where I could find a drawing of an MT P-860-4 prop > > governor? If not, anybody know how tall it is from mounting flange to arm? > > > > Thanks! > > Scott > > N4ZW > > > > > > * > > > > * > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2007
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Hi Bob: Reno racers, wet vacuum pumps pulling 9" hg, miracle reduction in oil consumption and backward seals. Super. WOW! You're right & I'm wrong. Got it, but......... What does that have to do with using the exhaust ace? Nothing so shut up with blaa-blaa-blaa personal BS off topic. Please focus. You are the FIRST to mention using a vacumn pump (very heavy, expensive, uses HP). I still say you're nuts. (nothing personal) Good luck with it. What do you do with the wet vacuum pump exhaust and the oil it spews out? Humm I thought we want to lessen belly oil? Oh and yes, if you are going to post, don't be a liar. I never said the cam would go un-lubed. It was rocket scientist Konrad Wiener who said it'll reduce wind-age, oil splash and make miracle HP. I just ASKED is reducing wind-age (lubrication) good? Plus you would not see it in you oil analysis which by the way is only good for tend anaylsis but you know that right? I don't think it will reduce "wind-age". That is not what its for according to the drag race engine builders. It's for ring seating as I said 4 times before, so I can see how your worn out tired engine may get less oil consumption with vacumn. My O360 uses 1qt in 16-18 hours with a plan-ol-vent! (depending on power used for cruise). but you get...............WHAT? 1 qt in 5 to 7 hours! ha-ha-ha! Ouch! An overhaul would work Bro, Gosh how silly, a vacumn pump when you need an overhaul. You are definitely in wiener ville. Than you got 1 at per 25 hours? ha ha ha, right. You pretty much shot your credibility since that is unbelievable and frankly too little oil use, at least at power over idle. I would hope when if you eat your rings up, you are man enough to admit it. Sounds like a bad idea for an everyday flyer, oh right you are a RENO RACER in a RV-6A, ha ha ha. Reno in a RV 4 banger. Am I being punked. The plot thickens as more claims are made. So now the reason to do this is lower oil consumption? I thought it was to keep oil off the belly or was it to make more HP due to lower wind age. Basically its a miracle from what I am hearing. Well what my pappy told me is, If its sounds too good to be true, its probably BS. God you guys are crazy anal. Give it a rest. Look its a common mistake for newbies to make it more complicated and heavy. Just follow the plans and you will get into the air and not suffer any unintended consequences. What do I know. I'm just repeating Richard Vangrunsven's advice. He must be a Mr know it all like me. A wise man takes advice, and I am following Van not your's Bob. Keep it light, simple and per plans. Bob, Lets hear about your "Reno racer": what pump, how is routed, what components are needed and so on. Show us all of your brilliant system, pictures, diagram, parts list on your RV6 reno racer. I would love to see this. You can teach me and everyone else, Yoda. You are all talk and claims but frankly I am skeptical, nothing personal. I think you are full of it. As I said it may be the greatest thing in the world, but I suggested caution which makes me a "know it all". Right, so show us the magic system you claim. I think we need the Myth Busters. Cheers George PS I have been at it a long time and probably younger than you so you will be going away first, ha ha. I'm Done >From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) > >I have a wet vacuum pump pulling set to pull 9" Hg. vacuum on my >crankcase thru the breather vent and it works great. My oil >consumption >went from 1 qt. every 5-7 hours to 1 qt. every 20-25 hours. >Regards, >Bob Japundza >RV-6 flying F1 under const. --------------------------------- Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Duckworks lenses cracking
Date: Jun 18, 2007
Ralph, I too have had some of the cracking at the screw holes. I attributed it to my over tightening the screws. Maybe not, but I now just "snug" the screws down so the head is level with the wing skin and have found no more cracks. Dale Ensing ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 9:04 PM Subject: RV-List: Duckworks lenses cracking > > Lighting question.... > > I installed my lights according to instructions - strapping tape, 75 > degrees, and all... > > The lenses were intact through the entire manufacturing process. I put > them in fine. > Today I was working on the wingtips and needed to remove the light > assemblies and found that every screwhole had cracks. > > Anyone else have this issue? > > I'm kinda bummed - knowing that subsequent installations will be more > difficult and won't be as tight. > > At a minimum, I need to order a new set of lenses...but I think I need > some building advice when it comes to these things...... > > Thanks, > Ralph Capen > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Date: Jun 18, 2007
Take your Ritalin! On Jun 18, 2007, at 6:07 AM, gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote: Hi Bob: Reno racers, wet vacuum pumps pulling 9" hg, miracle reduction in oil consumption and backward seals. Super. WOW! You're right & I'm wrong. Got it, but......... What does that have to do with using the exhaust ace? Nothing so shut up with blaa-blaa-blaa personal BS off topic. Please focus. You are the FIRST to mention using a vacumn pump (very heavy, expensive, uses HP). I still say you're nuts. (nothing personal) Good luck with it. What do you do with the wet vacuum pump exhaust and the oil it spews out? Humm I thought we want to lessen belly oil? Oh and yes, if you are going to post, don't be a liar. I never said the cam would go un-lubed. It was rocket scientist Konrad Wiener who said it'll reduce wind-age, oil splash and make miracle HP. I just ASKED is reducing wind-age (lubrication) good? Plus you would not see it in you oil analysis which by the way is only good for tend anaylsis but you know that right? I don't think it will reduce "wind-age". That is not what its for according to the drag race engine builders. It's for ring seating as I said 4 times before, so I can see how your worn out tired engine may get less oil consumption with vacumn. My O360 uses 1qt in 16-18 hours with a plan-ol-vent! (depending on power used for cruise). but you get...............WHAT? 1 qt in 5 to 7 hours! ha-ha-ha! Ouch! An overhaul would work Bro, Gosh how silly, a vacumn pump when you need an overhaul. You are definitely in wiener ville. Than you got 1 at per 25 hours? ha ha ha, right. You pretty much shot your credibility since that is unbelievable and frankly too little oil use, at least at power over idle. I would hope when if you eat your rings up, you are man enough to admit it. Sounds like a bad idea for an everyday flyer, oh right you are a RENO RACER in a RV-6A, ha ha ha. Reno in a RV 4 banger. Am I being punked. The plot thickens as more claims are made. So now the reason to do this is lower oil consumption? I thought it was to keep oil off the belly or was it to make more HP due to lower wind age. Basically its a miracle from what I am hearing. Well what my pappy told me is, If its sounds too good to be true, its probably BS. God you guys are crazy anal. Give it a rest. Look its a common mistake for newbies to make it more complicated and heavy. Just follow the plans and you will get into the air and not suffer any unintended consequences. What do I know. I'm just repeating Richard Vangrunsven's advice. He must be a Mr know it all like me. A wise man takes advice, and I am following Van not your's Bob. Keep it light, simple and per plans. Bob, Lets hear about your "Reno racer": what pump, how is routed, what components are needed and so on. Show us all of your brilliant system, pictures, diagram, parts list on your RV6 reno racer. I would love to see this. You can teach me and everyone else, Yoda. You are all talk and claims but frankly I am skeptical, nothing personal. I think you are full of it. As I said it may be the greatest thing in the world, but I suggested caution which makes me a "know it all". Right, so show us the magic system you claim. I think we need the Myth Busters. Cheers George PS I have been at it a long time and probably younger than you so you will be going away first, ha ha. I'm Done >From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) > >I have a wet vacuum pump pulling set to pull 9" Hg. vacuum on my >crankcase thru the breather vent and it works great. My oil >consumption >went from 1 qt. every 5-7 hours to 1 qt. every 20-25 hours. >Regards, >Bob Japundza >RV-6 flying F1 under const. Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2007
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
> > > PS I have been at it a long time and probably younger than you > so you will be going away first, ha ha. I'm Done > Boy did I just get a good chuckle out of your email. Hopefully you are done but as history has shown, you cannot stand to be put in your place. Once again you rant and rave with spew pure conjecture, name calling etc., without providing ANY of your own experiences or data you've come up with on your own or anything substantive to back any of your claims. FWIW I am 35 years old, and have been here on this list since 1994. And you somehow know the date in which I will expire? LOL! Somehow you are so all-knowing that you think you are younger and more experienced?? And you've obviously never operated an engine with chrome cylinders. You must be clairvoyant, not ever seeing my engine or looking at the oil analyses to determine its worn out. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Oil - where to buy?
Date: Jun 18, 2007
Hi Ralph- >Where are you getting your oil and filters? OSH. glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2007
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Duckworks lenses cracking
I'll try that..... -----Original Message----- >From: Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> >Sent: Jun 18, 2007 7:09 AM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Duckworks lenses cracking > > >Ralph, >I too have had some of the cracking at the screw holes. I attributed it to >my over tightening the screws. Maybe not, but I now just "snug" the screws >down so the head is level with the wing skin and have found no more cracks. >Dale Ensing > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> >To: ; >Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 9:04 PM >Subject: RV-List: Duckworks lenses cracking > > >> >> Lighting question.... >> >> I installed my lights according to instructions - strapping tape, 75 >> degrees, and all... >> >> The lenses were intact through the entire manufacturing process. I put >> them in fine. >> Today I was working on the wingtips and needed to remove the light >> assemblies and found that every screwhole had cracks. >> >> Anyone else have this issue? >> >> I'm kinda bummed - knowing that subsequent installations will be more >> difficult and won't be as tight. >> >> At a minimum, I need to order a new set of lenses...but I think I need >> some building advice when it comes to these things...... >> >> Thanks, >> Ralph Capen >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Date: Jun 18, 2007
Does Matt have ANYTHING to say about all of this? What's the point of sending out the monthly "rules" message if the list is going to be hijacked time and time again by the usual suspects? Matt? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
From: "N395V" <airboss(at)excaliburaviation.com>
Date: Jun 18, 2007
> Does Matt have ANYTHING to say about all of this? What's the point of sending out the monthly "rules" message if the list is going to be hijacked time and time again by the usual suspects? Bob, You mean as in banning a subscriber or censoring certain posts? That would not be a good thing in the mainstream press nor here. If you do not like someones posts simply ignore them, scroll by, do not respond, and erase their e-mail. If it makes you feel good make a post asking for their last name, or maybe even threaten to resign form the list. Those responses are certain to instill fear into the heart the perceived miscreant. gmc frequently has some good info to impart buried in his posts. Glean the good and ignore what you like. I remember the thread about the Arlington lawsuit where I found your thoughts and attitudes quite repugnant and had thoughts of "he should be banned from the list" but then we would have lost access to all of the good you provide and others would have avoided posting their views for fear of sanctions. What a shame that would be. Censorship and expulsion do nothing more than quell discussion and decrease participation. There is at least one list on this forum where the moderators acerbic responses and condescending attitude to the simplest of questions and responses has effectively censored the list causing a loss of input from many valuable contributors. Spend your time and effort on the barbecue, life is too short to develop an ulcer over someone elses behavior. -------- Milt 2003 F1 Rocket 2006 Radial Rocket Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=119101#119101 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again)
Date: Jun 18, 2007
Morning Bob, I laughed so hard too, matter of fact I am still trying to regain my breath..... The little Troll showed that he did not pay any attention-, nor did he understand what exactly you had said. It sure did all make sense to me. He has really no clue about a lot of things mechanical. He just likes to hear himself talk & talk & talk. But I would not mind that, *IF* it were in a much more "respectful" way instead of offending the many listers reading the list by wasting their time with "Troll-Rant". Cheers, Konrad ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob J. To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 5:39 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: Breather run into exhaust (warning again) PS I have been at it a long time and probably younger than you so you will be going away first, ha ha. I'm Done Boy did I just get a good chuckle out of your email. Hopefully you are done but as history has shown, you cannot stand to be put in your place. Once again you rant and rave with spew pure conjecture, name calling etc., without providing ANY of your own experiences or data you've come up with on your own or anything substantive to back any of your claims. FWIW I am 35 years old, and have been here on this list since 1994. And you somehow know the date in which I will expire? LOL! Somehow you are so all-knowing that you think you are younger and more experienced?? And you've obviously never operated an engine with chrome cylinders. You must be clairvoyant, not ever seeing my engine or looking at the oil analyses to determine its worn out. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 18, 2007
Subject: Re: Duckworks lenses cracking
Ralph, Don Wentz, aka "Duck" I bet would be more than happy to help you, since he makes these things..._duckworks(at)comcast.net_ (mailto:things...duckworks(at)comcast.net) HTH, Jerry Cochran From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: Duckworks lenses cracking Lighting question.... I installed my lights according to instructions - strapping tape, 75 degrees, and all... ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "don wentz" <dasduck(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Duckworks lenses cracking
Date: Jun 18, 2007
Thanks Jerry, I responded to Ralph on the RV-10 list, I'm sure we'll chat soon. Don 'The Duck' RV-6 989 hrs _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry2DT(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 11:04 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: Duckworks lenses cracking Ralph, Don Wentz, aka "Duck" I bet would be more than happy to help you, since he makes these things...duckworks(at)comcast.net HTH, Jerry Cochran ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2007
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Oil - where to buy?
I get my oil here: http://www.eliteetc.com/expisoil.html Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Ralph E. Capen wrote: > > Where are you getting your oil and filters? > > I'll be needing some break-in oil and some regular oil for when I > restart my Aerosport O360..... > > Thanks, > Ralph > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2007
From: John Fasching <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Supplier Problem
What would you do? The first week of February, 2007, I deposited $1,000 with a well known RV-related supplier for a sub-assembly for an RV. After three months and no word I contacted the supplier only to learn that parts necessary for the product were not even ordered yet. I received a promise that the material necessary would be ordered that very day and that the product would be made as soon as possible. That was six weeks ago. The supplier knows I will be unable to fly the airplane after the end of this month and that flying to Oshkosh now seems highly improbable. I didn't get a response to my latest e-mail, so I guess I'll call tomorrow and see what new promises I get, and perhaps ask for my money back (lot'sa luck!!) How would you handle a situation like this? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2007
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Supplier Problem
On 16:24 2007-06-18 John Fasching wrote: > The first week of February, 2007, I deposited $1,000 with a well > known RV-related supplier for a sub-assembly for an RV. After three > months and no word I contacted the supplier only to learn that parts > necessary for the product were not even ordered yet. > > ... > > How would you handle a situation like this? So far, i'd do the same things you have. Communicate regularly with them, and give them a reasonable time to make good on their committment. If that doesn't achieve the desired results I would start looking elsewhere for an alternative. If they are the only supplier of a part you really want (or have built with the expectation of receiving, ie. you have a hole for a specific-size EFIS display in your panel), then there's not a lot you can do. Your options are to wait, or to rebuild. If you are confident that they will *eventually* get it done, your best option may be to wait, and try to negotiate a discount on the remainder of the work to compensate for the delay. If you're not confident that they will be able to complete the job *at all*, you may want to start rebuilding now to fit an alternative. -Rob PS - Oh, and I would also do as you have, and not name the company or the product until I was able to negotiate a resolution to the issue. Good karma. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2007
Subject: Upholstery around KHWD
From: Parker Thomas <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Does anyone know a good aircraft upholstery shop around Hayward, CA? Closest one I can find is Columbia, CA. I'm trying to get carpet fitted, bound and installed. I've got the carpet and padding. Thanks, Parker Thomas ____________________________________ F. Parker Thomas me(at)parkerthomas.com www.parkerthomas.com Phone 510-393-9876 Fax 510-225-2358 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Upholstery around KHWD
Date: Jun 18, 2007
Try Belardi Interiors at Watsonville Airport: 831-724-0619 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Parker Thomas Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 5:02 PM Subject: RV-List: Upholstery around KHWD Does anyone know a good aircraft upholstery shop around Hayward, CA? Closest one I can find is Columbia, CA. I'm trying to get carpet fitted, bound and installed. I've got the carpet and padding. Thanks, Parker Thomas ____________________________________ F. Parker Thomas me(at)parkerthomas.com www.parkerthomas.com Phone 510-393-9876 Fax 510-225-2358 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2007
From: "Rick Leach" <papadaddyo(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: battery location
Not to start the battery wars again but has anyone installed 2 PC680 batteries and put one up front somewhere, ie. Firewall. If so, where does it fit and how is it on W&B. I know Tim has smaller batteries under his seat I believe. Rick Leach 40397 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Supplier Problem
Date: Jun 19, 2007
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
Take a number and get in line. Chuck What would you do? The first week of February, 2007, I deposited $1,000 with a well known RV-related supplier for a sub-assembly for an RV. After three months and no word I contacted the supplier only to learn that parts necessary for the product were not even ordered yet. How would you handle a situation like this? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Supplier Problem
Date: Jun 19, 2007
Share your experiences in a factual, non-bashing manner so that others don't end up in a similar situation with this vendor. I have no problems with vendors that experience delays and communicate regularly with their customers, but I have very little sympathy for vendors that don't keep their customer's informed of the issues and delays. -----Original Message----- What would you do? The first week of February, 2007, I deposited $1,000 with a well known RV-related supplier for a sub-assembly for an RV. After three months and no word I contacted the supplier only to learn that parts necessary for the product were not even ordered yet. How would you handle a situation like this? __________ NOD32 2338 (20070619) Information __________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Subject: Re: Supplier Problem
Date: Jun 19, 2007
It's now 4 months since you placed your order. Did the company tell you initially you should expect a multi-month delivery schedule? I would call them back and ask for the following: -Expected ship date -Reason for the lengthy delay -Reason to believe the delay has been resolved If I wasn't satisfied with the answers provided, I would politely ask for a refund. If the person you're talking to can't offer one, then talk to someone who can. So far, I'd keep it all polite and businesslike. If they refused the refund, it's basically war. I would then do the following: -Send them a certified letter telling them of the actions you're about to undergo. Include a history of your attempts to resolve the problem. -If you paid your deposit via credit card, contact the credit card company and request reversal of charges -If you mailed a check, it might qualify as mail fraud. Contact the post office or the attorney general in your state or the state where the supplier resides. -In the letter sent, I'd also tell them if you are forced to hire an attorney to resolve this issue, you will be demanding legal fees in addition to a refund. And as Bob said, I'd also post about your experiences complete with the name of the company involved so the rest of us know. -J On Jun 19, 2007, at 7:48 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: > > Share your experiences in a factual, non-bashing manner so that > others don't > end up in a similar situation with this vendor. > > I have no problems with vendors that experience delays and communicate > regularly with their customers, but I have very little sympathy for > vendors > that don't keep their customer's informed of the issues and delays. > > -----Original Message----- > > What would you do? > > The first week of February, 2007, I deposited $1,000 with a well known > RV-related supplier for a sub-assembly for an RV. After three > months and > > no word I contacted the supplier only to learn that parts necessary > for > the product were not even ordered yet. > > How would you handle a situation like this? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2007
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Supplier Problem
Sounds to me like you order a pre-built panel and they do take some time and there is usually a waiting list or waiting time. Call around to another vendor if this is the case. Darrell --- Joseph Larson wrote: > > > It's now 4 months since you placed your order. Did > the company tell > you initially you should expect a multi-month > delivery schedule? > > I would call them back and ask for the following: > > -Expected ship date > -Reason for the lengthy delay > -Reason to believe the delay has been resolved > > If I wasn't satisfied with the answers provided, I > would politely ask > for a refund. If the person you're talking to can't > offer one, then > talk to someone who can. > > So far, I'd keep it all polite and businesslike. If > they refused the > refund, it's basically war. I would then do the > following: > > -Send them a certified letter telling them of the > actions you're > about to undergo. Include a history of your > attempts to resolve the > problem. > -If you paid your deposit via credit card, contact > the credit card > company and request reversal of charges > -If you mailed a check, it might qualify as mail > fraud. Contact the > post office or the attorney general in your state or > the state where > the supplier resides. > -In the letter sent, I'd also tell them if you are > forced to hire an > attorney to resolve this issue, you will be > demanding legal fees in > addition to a refund. > > And as Bob said, I'd also post about your > experiences complete with > the name of the company involved so the rest of us > know. > > -J > > On Jun 19, 2007, at 7:48 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: > > > > > > Share your experiences in a factual, non-bashing > manner so that > > others don't > > end up in a similar situation with this vendor. > > > > I have no problems with vendors that experience > delays and communicate > > regularly with their customers, but I have very > little sympathy for > > vendors > > that don't keep their customer's informed of the > issues and delays. > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > > What would you do? > > > > The first week of February, 2007, I deposited > $1,000 with a well known > > RV-related supplier for a sub-assembly for an RV. > After three > > months and > > > > no word I contacted the supplier only to learn > that parts necessary > > for > > the product were not even ordered yet. > > > > How would you handle a situation like this? > > > > > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > Web Forums! > > > > > Never miss an email again! Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2007
From: John Fasching <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Supplier Problem
Well, perhaps my problem is about over...I just talked to Evan Johnson regarding my fuel tanks ordered early February, and he said he expects to ship them this coming Monday. I may make Oshkosh after all. Seems he has been out of the country for a bit which slows/stops things in a one-man operation. Maybe all will be well...thanks to several of you folks who offered assistance/advise. John ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2007
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (nuff said)
And in the end what did we learn? Nothing, because not one of our heroes has dared showed us how they did their super secret crankcase evacuation system with the exhaust or wet vacuum pump. May be its gerbils next? They say IT'S GREAT! but then can tell us why or show us how. Hummmm? Did they even try it? All I heard was sarcastic "straw-man" arguments and points made by saying, "Reno Racer" & "turbo-charger". What? The rest of the comments where about me or attacking me for various reasons? I guess I offended people because I went to engineering school and fly planes? Why would that be relevant? Sorry I went to school and fly planes for a living. Oh yea I don't think PCV is necessary or value added, and that really set the tribe off into a Tizzy. I dared disagree; how could I. Attn: Guys who just want to build your RV, the quickest way to finish and fly a nice RV, that is safe, reliable, light and fun is to follow the plans in my opinion. You can quote me. Leave off the exhaust sucker or wet vacuum pump for now. If you want to use it later, research it, call Lyc, Van and yes call a "Reno Racer" and ask them directly. BTW: super-charged or turbo- charged engines have more blow-by into the crank case than a normally aspirated engines like ours. (facts again darn it) Part of the fun is learning, and I am truly sorry that may be all you learned is there's a "gang" on the list who makes personal attacks to "put people into their place", so you might be intimidated from asking a question. That's a shame. If you need help email me direct; I'll help if I can and won't make fun of you even if you are a pilot or went to school. I am happy however if you learned to be careful and check it out for your self, not to unilaterally believe me or the experts. It is a good lesson, check it out and learn, your life or your wife or kids life may depend on it. Be careful with engine mods. Building is learning and is fun; ignore the dolts. Asbestos underwear on so flame away. Nuff said --------------------------------- Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (nuff said)
Date: Jun 19, 2007
And in the end what did we learn? Nothing, Actually I may have learned something about the end of the breather hose. Although I am still a bit confuzzled how the end is cut apparently is important so that you don't pressurize it. Also having a whistle slot near the engine is good IF the end becomes obstructed. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: LP4-3 Rivets
Date: Jun 19, 2007
Does anyone know if Aircraft Spruce sells a rivet that is equivalent to the LP4-3 that Van's supplies? I'm assembling an order for ACS but don't see the same rivet that Van's sells. I'm hoping to avoid an extra shipping and handling charge just for a few rivets. Ivan Haecker -4 1370 hrs. S.Cen.TX ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2007
From: Todd & Kristen Neidinger <tsneidin(at)wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: LP4-3 Rivets
I tracked this down when I first needed to order more: AVEX RIVETS (LP4-3) http://www.airpartsinc.com/catalog_gif/page18.htm Non-structural blind rivet. Aluminum rivet on steel stem. 1/8" diameter has 165 lbs. shear, 230 lbs. tensile. 5/32" diameter has 255 lbs. shear and 375 lbs. tensile. 1661 ( Low Profile ) Dome View this page Dia grip range Part # Price Each/100 1/8 .031 - .187 1661-0410 $7.95 5/32 .046 - .250 1661-0512i $7.95 Aircraft Spurce Cherry Rivets MINIMUM RIVET SHEAR AND TENSILE STRENGTH (Ibs.) RIVET DIA. BS SERIES ALUM RIVET / STEEL MAND. GRADE 19 MS SERIES MONEL RIVET / STEEL MAND.GRADE 40 CC SERIES STAINLESS RIVET / STAINLESS MAND. GRADE 51 Shear Tens Shear Tens Shear Tens 3/32 125 175 200 300 230 280 1/8 200 325 350 525 450 600 5/32 325 450 600 900 750 1000 3/16 430 650 750 1100 1000 1300 1/4 750 1050 1450 2150 1700 2250 When I asked Vans about using these: Could you please provide me with the shear and tensile strength > numbers for the lp4-3 and lp4-4 rivets? They're around 170 shear, 220 tensile, a little less than the BSP type. Who makes these rivets? Gesipa Mfg, NC > > Would the Cherry BSPS-43(44) or the AD41BS be _*fully*_ equivalent to > > the LP series? > They'd be an acceptable substitute, but they're more expensive. Vans Todd Neidinger 9A - fuse. Waunakee, Wi H.Ivan Haecker wrote: > Does anyone know if Aircraft Spruce sells a rivet that is equivalent > to the LP4-3 that Van's supplies? I'm assembling an order for ACS but > don't see the same rivet that Van's sells. I'm hoping to avoid an > extra shipping and handling charge just for a few rivets. > > Ivan Haecker -4 1370 hrs. S.Cen.TX > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2007
Subject: Re: Supplier Problem
From: evmeg(at)snowcrest.net
>Geez John, I just got home and started reading this thread. You seem to have left out the most important bit about the fact that when you orderded your tanks.....way back in February.....you told me you would not need them untill OSH.....Pretty important from a scheduling standpoint. Not too sure I appreciate this bit of attention. I think your good karma just went south. Evan .....Still working on your tanks but a bit miffed.... > > Well, perhaps my problem is about over...I just talked to Evan Johnson > regarding my fuel tanks ordered early February, and he said he expects > to ship them this coming Monday. I may make Oshkosh after all. Seems he > has been out of the country for a bit which slows/stops things in a > one-man operation. > > Maybe all will be well...thanks to several of you folks who offered > assistance/advise. > > John > > --------------------------------------------- This message was sent using SnowCrest WebMail. http://www.snowcrest.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2007
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: LP4-3 Rivets
H.Ivan Haecker wrote: > Does anyone know if Aircraft Spruce sells a rivet that is equivalent to > the LP4-3 that Van's supplies? I'm assembling an order for ACS but don't > see the same rivet that Van's sells. I'm hoping to avoid an extra > shipping and handling charge just for a few rivets. > > Ivan Haecker -4 1370 hrs. S.Cen.TX > > * http://www.hansonrivet.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org>
Subject: Re: Supplier Problem
Date: Jun 19, 2007
I think what Evan *really* meant to write was: "John, when you ordered your tanks, you indicated you wouldn't need them until shortly before OSH, so I added them to the schedule. I'm really sorry if I misunderstood you. I promise I'll have your tanks shipped by the end of next week. Please let me know if there's anything I can do to make sure they are easy to install in a prompt fashion." I'm sure that's what Evan really meant to say. -J On Jun 19, 2007, at 8:37 PM, evmeg(at)snowcrest.net wrote: > >> Geez John, I just got home and started reading this thread. You >> seem to > have left out the most important bit about the fact that when you > orderded your tanks.....way back in February.....you told me you would > not need them untill OSH.....Pretty important from a scheduling > standpoint. Not too sure I appreciate this bit of attention. I > think your > good karma just went south. > Evan > .....Still working on your tanks but a bit miffed.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (nuff said)
Date: Jun 19, 2007
You do want to have a minor amount of air pressure going into the breather hose. To accomplish this, you cut a bevel at 45 degrees or so with the opening facing into the airstream (and down) - similar to the fuel vents. If the opening faces the other way and you are careless enough (I was - once) to leave the oil dipstick loose, you can find a huge amount of oil on the airplane's belly even after a short flight. The combination of a loose dipstick and a backwards facing breather can create a lot of airflow *through* the engine, which will pull a surprising amount of oil with it... I wrote my incident up for the RVator about 5 years ago. I blew a quart and a half of oil out of the engine in about 15 minutes. Quite the surprise when I landed to have oil running down the belly of the airplane and dripping on the ramp. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron Lee To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 7:37 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Breather run into exhaust (nuff said) And in the end what did we learn? Nothing, Actually I may have learned something about the end of the breather hose. Although I am still a bit confuzzled how the end is cut apparently is important so that you don't pressurize it. Also having a whistle slot near the engine is good IF the end becomes obstructed. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 2007
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (nuff said)
Nuff said, huh? Didn't you say something to that effect in your last post? And in the end what did we learn? > > Nothing, > Obviously you didn't. I conveyed what I have learned, and that is crankcase evacuation has has many benefits. I am not the first to have proven that drawing a vacuum on the crankcase has many benefits. The original poster asked if it was advisable to plumb the crankcase vent into the exhaust. My experience through my own experiments with crankcase venting have proven that yes indeed positively venting the crankcase is a good idea. because not one of our heroes has dared showed us how they > did their super secret crankcase evacuation system with the > exhaust or wet vacuum pump. May be its gerbils next? > > They say IT'S GREAT! but then can tell us why or show us how. > Hummmm? Did they even try it? > Let me repost my comments here so you can read them since apparently you never did in the first place: I have a wet vacuum pump pulling set to pull 9" Hg. vacuum on my crankcase thru the breather vent and it works great. My oil consumption went from 1 qt. every 5-7 hours to 1 qt. every 20-25 hours. I have the oil analysis to prove that the cam isn't making any metal due to lack of oil splash and I believe the engine runs smoother, idles lower, and seems to be making some more power but I have no scientific proof of it. I have a flapper door check valve designed into the system so if the vacuum pump quits the breather will vent to ambient. I have about 50 hours on this setup now and it works fine so far. I was advised by two different engine builders who have this setup flying on Reno race aircraft to install a new crank seal backwards to so that the vacuum doesn't draw air in thru the front of the engine and that too has been trouble-free. Based on my experience with the above I highly encourage anyone willing to experiment with pulling a vacuum on the crankcase through the exhaust. There are many aerobatic aircraft flying that are configured this way and work just fine. Particularly pay attention to the last sentence of the first paragraph since you keep bringing it up. You called me a liar since you had no idea how to respond to something that perhaps your vast education and experience did not prepare you for. Obviously the acquisition of people skills were not a part of any of that. I get a chuckle out of your responses, because I have no motivation to lie or misrepresent. I will gladly take pictures of the setup at the next oil change due in in a week after I make a 800nm trip in my RV-6 (not a 6A as you incorrectly referred to in your previous rambling diatribe). The exact same system is installed on a IO-540 on Mark Frederick's #84 F1 Rocket which raced at reno several times. I will repeat it so you can hopefully understand, Mark Frederick raced with this setup several times at Reno. It is simply a wet vacuum pump plumbed into the breather with the outlet going to an air/oil separator. The engine builder who built his 540 claimed a 14hp increase on the dyno from this mod alone and a 1hp penalty to turn the vacuum pump. Once the crankcase is evacuated there is very little hp loss from turning the pump. It works just the same as sticking one's hand on the end of a vacuum cleaner hose; the vacuum motor will speed up because there is less resistance to the motor without any air to pump. Doug Rozendaal now owns the airplane and I suspect the vacuum evacuation system is still installed. You have claimed in the past you are friends with Mark and have hung out in his booth at OSH. I find it funny that he has no idea who you are. And if you hung around the booth as you have stated in the past you would have seen this system since his airplane is always un-cowled for the world to see. I guess the fact that he had this same system but didn't document it for your review makes him liar too. All I heard was sarcastic "straw-man" arguments and points > made by saying, "Reno Racer" & "turbo-charger". What? > Again, please do thoroughly read what people post, it will make you look less stupid when you try to pull words out of context to make a shallow argument. The rest of the comments where about me or attacking me for > various reasons? I guess I offended people because I went to > engineering school and fly planes? Why would that be > relevant? Sorry I went to school and fly planes for a living. > Your education/experience is just about as relevant to the subject at hand as the experience a doctor may have applies towards changing the oil in my car. It means nothing. You choose not to reveal yourself and that throws any credibility you may have right down the crapper. I have a bachelor's degree and am a successful software engineer, but that has absolutely no relevance to this discussion. You seem to be the only one I've ever seen on the various RV forums that flaunts your supposed educational and professional background, like it makes you any more of an expert at building an airplane than people of other professions do. Oh > yea I don't think PCV is necessary or value added, and that > really set the tribe off into a Tizzy. I dared disagree; how could I. > Factual disagreement is welcome. Disrespect isn't. PCV evacuation systems have been used on ALL automobiles in this country since the mid 60's, and the system I have experimented with a different variation to the same idea. The reason why you'd install a PCV valve where the crankcase vent hose meets the exhaust is to prevent the flow of exhaust into the crankcase, such as at low rpm when crankcase pressures are low. I have my crankcase instrumented with a manifold pressure gauge and I know what it does at various power settings. You can disagree if you like. I suppose you can argue the world is still flat while you're at it. Attn: Guys who just want to build your RV, the quickest way > to finish and fly a nice RV, that is safe, reliable, light and fun is > to follow the plans in my opinion. You can quote me. Leave off > the exhaust sucker or wet vacuum pump for now. If you want > to use it later, research it, call Lyc, Van and yes call a "Reno > Racer" and ask them directly. BTW: super-charged or turbo- > charged engines have more blow-by into the crank case than a > normally aspirated engines like ours. (facts again darn it) > I don't recall anyone in this thread asking for advice on how complex they should build their airplane. The original poster asked if it was ok to plumb the breather into the exhaust. Other than the addition of a PCV valve, it is not complicated to do at all and adds very little in complexity to the breather over an existing setup. I have an AutoCAD drawing that was sent to me a few years ago by a fellow lister that showed how to weld a bung on the exhaust at a 45 degree angle and which PCV valve to use. Like I said its been done before, and nobody has fallen out of the sky as a result of that kind of modification. Part of the fun is learning, and I am truly sorry that may be all > you learned is there's a "gang" on the list who makes personal > attacks to "put people into their place", so you might be > intimidated from asking a question. That's a shame. If you need > help email me direct; I'll help if I can and won't make fun of you > even if you are a pilot or went to school. > Obviously you have forgotten that you have spewed vulgarities to others here on this list, called others names, and mocked others with phallic misrepresentations of their last names, amongst other things. That's what is truly shameful. Some things you have said are quite childish and it leads me to suspect that your claims of education and/or background are false, because the sort of behavior you've engaged in is not representative of a normal adult let alone someone who thinks their occupation makes them an expert on things they are obviously not an expert on. I am happy however if you learned to be careful and check it > out for your self, not to unilaterally believe me or the experts. > It is a good lesson, check it out and learn, your life or your wife > or kids life may depend on it. Be careful with engine mods. > Building is learning and is fun; ignore the dolts. > Yep, that is good advice to give, especially since you fall into the latter. Asbestos underwear on so flame away. Nuff said > Regards. Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 2007
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (nuff said)
> > Racer" and ask them directly. BTW: super-charged or turbo- > > charged engines have more blow-by into the crank case than a > > normally aspirated engines like ours. (facts again darn it) > > > One more thing, you make a salient point about how a turbo-charged engine makes more blow-by. What do you think happens when there is less than ambient crankcase pressure? Even more blowby? Man those facts sometimes indeed can really get in the way of making a valid argument. Long ago when I worked on turbocharged airplanes while I was in college, I learned that the crankcase indeed does get pressurized and that is why a gear-driven Romec fuel pump is typically used. It is because crankcase pressures will an effect on diaphragm pumps since they are vented to the crankcase, but a gear driven pump dispenses with that problem. Crankcase pressurization is the reason why fuel components are referenced to the upper deck on a turbo engine. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. Taking A&P oral and practical exams on Saturday ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (nuff said)
Date: Jun 20, 2007
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
George, I can understand you're wanting to hide your last name...I would too, but would you at least divulge which airline your fly for. Right now, I fly on most any of them when the Velo isn't ready to go, but if I know which one you fly for, I'll be especially cautious about flying that airline on the oft chance you may be at the controls. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 6:35 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: Breather run into exhaust (nuff said) And in the end what did we learn? Nothing, because not one of our heroes has dared showed us how they did their super secret crankcase evacuation system with the exhaust or wet vacuum pump. May be its gerbils next? They say IT'S GREAT! but then can tell us why or show us how. Hummmm? Did they even try it? All I heard was sarcastic "straw-man" arguments and points made by saying, "Reno Racer" & "turbo-charger". What? The rest of the comments where about me or attacking me for various reasons? I guess I offended people because I went to engineering school and fly planes? Why would that be relevant? Sorry I went to school and fly planes for a living. Oh yea I don't think PCV is necessary or value added, and that really set the tribe off into a Tizzy. I dared disagree; how could I. Attn: Guys who just want to build your RV, the quickest way to finish and fly a nice RV, that is safe, reliable, light and fun is to follow the plans in my opinion. You can quote me. Leave off the exhaust sucker or wet vacuum pump for now. If you want to use it later, research it, call Lyc, Van and yes call a "Reno Racer" and ask them directly. BTW: super-charged or turbo- charged engines have more blow-by into the crank case than a normally aspirated engines like ours. (facts again darn it) Part of the fun is learning, and I am truly sorry that may be all you learned is there's a "gang" on the list who makes personal attacks to "put people into their place", so you might be intimidated from asking a question. That's a shame. If you need help email me direct; I'll help if I can and won't make fun of you even if you are a pilot or went to school. I am happy however if you learned to be careful and check it out for your self, not to unilaterally believe me or the experts. It is a good lesson, check it out and learn, your life or your wife or kids life may depend on it. Be careful with engine mods. Building is learning and is fun; ignore the dolts. Asbestos underwear on so flame away. Nuff said ________________________________ Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48255/*http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/_ylc= X3o DMTI5MGx2aThyBF9TAzIxMTU1MDAzNTIEX3MDMzk2NTQ1MTAzBHNlYwNCQUJwaWxsYXJfTkl fMzYwBHNsawNQcm9kdWN0X3F1ZXN0aW9uX3BhZ2U-?link=list&sid=396545433> from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (nuff said)
Date: Jun 20, 2007
MessageHey, gmcjetpilot dude, You said "Asbestos underwear on so flame away. Nuff said" Now we have afew more facts to work with when dealing with you: 1- You have your asbestos underwear on. 2- They are on your head 3- You have them on backwards. 4- Nuff said. Aw heck!, I just had to say it {B-) Jim in Kelowna - RV6-A flying ----- Original Message ----- From: Chuck Jensen To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 5:58 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Breather run into exhaust (nuff said) George, I can understand you're wanting to hide your last name...I would too, but would you at least divulge which airline your fly for. Right now, I fly on most any of them when the Velo isn't ready to go, but if I know which one you fly for, I'll be especially cautious about flying that airline on the oft chance you may be at the controls. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 6:35 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Re: Breather run into exhaust (nuff said) And in the end what did we learn? Nothing, because not one of our heroes has dared showed us how they did their super secret crankcase evacuation system with the exhaust or wet vacuum pump. May be its gerbils next? They say IT'S GREAT! but then can tell us why or show us how. Hummmm? Did they even try it? All I heard was sarcastic "straw-man" arguments and points made by saying, "Reno Racer" & "turbo-charger". What? The rest of the comments where about me or attacking me for various reasons? I guess I offended people because I went to engineering school and fly planes? Why would that be relevant? Sorry I went to school and fly planes for a living. Oh yea I don't think PCV is necessary or value added, and that really set the tribe off into a Tizzy. I dared disagree; how could I. Attn: Guys who just want to build your RV, the quickest way to finish and fly a nice RV, that is safe, reliable, light and fun is to follow the plans in my opinion. You can quote me. Leave off the exhaust sucker or wet vacuum pump for now. If you want to use it later, research it, call Lyc, Van and yes call a "Reno Racer" and ask them directly. BTW: super-charged or turbo- charged engines have more blow-by into the crank case than a normally aspirated engines like ours. (facts again darn it) Part of the fun is learning, and I am truly sorry that may be all you learned is there's a "gang" on the list who makes personal attacks to "put people into their place", so you might be intimidated from asking a question. That's a shame. If you need help email me direct; I'll help if I can and won't make fun of you even if you are a pilot or went to school. I am happy however if you learned to be careful and check it out for your self, not to unilaterally believe me or the experts. It is a good lesson, check it out and learn, your life or your wife or kids life may depend on it. Be careful with engine mods. Building is learning and is fun; ignore the dolts. Asbestos underwear on so flame away. Nuff said ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Supplier Problem
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: Jun 20, 2007
For the record, the original poster did not mention the supplier, nor even the part that he was talking about until he was asked to do so by other posters. He just requested ideas on what he should do. Being in business is hard; really hard. I don't think there's anything more difficult than running your own business. That said, a lot comes with the territory. C'est la vie. -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://rvhotline.expercraft.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=119640#119640 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 2007
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: Supplier Problem
On 7:44 2007-06-20 linn Walters wrote: > However, this points to a rather common problem. When a one-man shop > escapes for some quality time, and folks can't reach him/her they > panic. I think the more common problem is that people panic when they have no reason to. In this case, the customer ordered in February, and said he didn't need the parts until just before Oshkosh. The vendor probably scheduled the work with that timeframe in mind. Yet the customer's post accented that it had taken *months* to get his parts delivered. If he wanted or expected them sooner, he should have said so. I think this one-man-shop excercised extreme restraint in his post to this list. I applaud him for posting his side of the story in blunt yet polite terms. His credibility has been fully restored as far as i'm concerned. -Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Supplier Problem
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: Jun 20, 2007
Moral of the story. When someone says "when do you need it." The answer should always be "today." [Wink] -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://rvhotline.expercraft.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=119648#119648 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV8 for sale
From: "Leland Collins" <federigo(at)pacbell.net>
Date: Jun 20, 2007
The years are finally catching up on my good friend Don Farand, who is now offering his VFR/Night RV8 for $60k. This is the third RV that Don built. It is in good shape, always hangared and is a solid flyer but the paint is a bit rough. The bargain price can fix the cosmetics. Total time is 240 hours on both the airframe and Lycoming O360 A1A (new from Vans). It has a 3-blade Catto , an Apollo SL60 Com/GPS/Intercom, Narco AT150 transponder, KS Avionics, Tetra II, EGT/CHT monitor, Vans steam gauges, and a Lowrance Airmap backup GPS. It also has Oregon Aero seats, 5-point harnesses and includes a Telex ANR4000 headset. The plane is currently located in Lincoln, near Sacramento, California. For more information or a look/see call Don at 916-543-2889 or write him at dotndon1950(at)sbcglobal.net. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=119650#119650 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Supplier Problem
Date: Jun 20, 2007
At least not "two days before my BFR expires." Of course I have no idea what dates were agreed to. Ron Lee ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 10:00 AM Subject: RV-List: Re: Supplier Problem > > Moral of the story. When someone says "when do you need it." The answer > should always be "today." > [Wink] > > -------- > Bob Collins > St. Paul, Minn. > RV Builder's Hotline (free!) > http://rvhotline.expercraft.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=119648#119648 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Breather run into exhaust (WAY ENOUGH said)
Date: Jun 20, 2007
Dearest Gentlemen, and the person we know simply as "George", I recommend that we leave this subject line alone, as everyone knows by now where everyone else stands, and the exact opinion they represent... May they be "Right or Wrong"? I think we have beaten this horse not only around the corner quite a bit, but also -to death- a couple of times over... So may this one now hopefully get the final R. I. P. for good! Time to move on to more pleasant and more productive discussions, hopefully with more civility and respect toward each other, incl. accepting each others opinions just as that. Sincerely, Konrad L. Werner ----- Original Message ----- From: gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 4:35 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: Breather run into exhaust (nuff said) And in the end what did we learn? Nothing, because not one of our heroes has dared showed us how they did their super secret crankcase evacuation system with the exhaust or wet vacuum pump. May be its gerbils next? They say IT'S GREAT! but then can tell us why or show us how. Hummmm? Did they even try it? All I heard was sarcastic "straw-man" arguments and points made by saying, "Reno Racer" & "turbo-charger". What? The rest of the comments where about me or attacking me for various reasons? I guess I offended people because I went to engineering school and fly planes? Why would that be relevant? Sorry I went to school and fly planes for a living. Oh yea I don't think PCV is necessary or value added, and that really set the tribe off into a Tizzy. I dared disagree; how could I. Attn: Guys who just want to build your RV, the quickest way to finish and fly a nice RV, that is safe, reliable, light and fun is to follow the plans in my opinion. You can quote me. Leave off the exhaust sucker or wet vacuum pump for now. If you want to use it later, research it, call Lyc, Van and yes call a "Reno Racer" and ask them directly. BTW: super-charged or turbo- charged engines have more blow-by into the crank case than a normally aspirated engines like ours. (facts again darn it) Part of the fun is learning, and I am truly sorry that may be all you learned is there's a "gang" on the list who makes personal attacks to "put people into their place", so you might be intimidated from asking a question. That's a shame. If you need help email me direct; I'll help if I can and won't make fun of you even if you are a pilot or went to school. I am happy however if you learned to be careful and check it out for your self, not to unilaterally believe me or the experts. It is a good lesson, check it out and learn, your life or your wife or kids life may depend on it. Be careful with engine mods. Building is learning and is fun; ignore the dolts. Asbestos underwear on so flame away. Nuff said ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: Re: RV-6A Paint Area
Date: Jun 20, 2007
On Jun 12, 2007, at 5:42 PM, Robin wrote: > I have one more question, How much paint does it take to cover an > RV aircraft? The paint area of a RV-6A is as follows. Take the area and use the manufacture's recommended coverage for primer (please forgive the use of that "word") and finish coats and volia, you have the amount required, Do not forget to add in the amount that does not actually end up on the plane. RV-6A Paint Areas (sq ft) Fuselage (Aluminum) in in SqFt 670 Fwd Side 24 81.5 13.6 670 Fwd Side 24 81.5 13.6 671 Fwd Top 48 17 5.7 672 Fwd Bott 43 32 9.6 673 Aft Side 19.2 91.12 12.1 673 Aft Side 19.2 91.12 12.1 674 Aft Top 55.62 46 17.8 675 Rear Top 27 40 7.5 676 Rt Bott 22 50.25 7.7 677 Lt Bott 25.38 50.25 8.9 678 Aft Bott 16.7 71.12 8.2 679 Rear Bott 12 20.5 1.7 Total 118.4 118.4 Wing (Aluminum) Rt Wing w/o Fuel 104 97 56.9 Lt Wing w/o Fuel 104 97 56.9 Rt Wing Fuel Tank 48 39.5 13.2 Lt Wing Fuel Tank 48 39.5 13.2 140.1 Rt Aileron 48 30 10.0 Lt Aileron 48 30 10.0 Rt Flap 58 26 10.5 Lt Flap 58 26 10.5 40.9 Total 181.1 Empennage (Aluminum) Vert Stab 33 41 9.4 Rudder 44 34 10.4 Rt Horz Stab 45 39 12.2 Lt Horz Stab 45 39 12.2 33.8 Rt Elevator 48 28 9.3 Lt Elevator 48 28 9.3 28.1 Total 62.8 Misc Fairings (Fiberglas) Spinner 1 306 2.1 Upper Cowl 34 50 11.8 Lower Cowl 34 80 18.9 Nose Wheel 1 500 3.5 Nose Gear Leg 20 7 1.0 Rt Main Wheel 1 1000 6.9 Rt Main Gear Leg 25 10 1.7 Lt Main Wheel 1 1000 6.9 Lt Main Gear Leg 25 10 1.7 Lt Gear Intersection 10 10 0.7 Rt Gear Intersection 10 10 0.7 Rt Wing Tip 58.5 24 9.8 Lt Wing Tip 58.5 24 9.8 Total 75.5 437.8 Misc Fairings (Aluminum) Canopy Frame Fwd Fairing Aft Fairing Rt Wing Root Fairing 69 3.5 1.7 Lt Wing Root Fairing 69 3.5 1.7 Rt Empanage Fairing-Upper 30.0 4.0 0.8 Lf Empanage Fairing-Uper 30.0 4.0 0.8 Rt Empanage Fairing-Lower 22.0 2 0.3 Lf Empanage Fairing-Lower 22.0 2.0 0.3 Total 5.6 443.5 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Skin riveting - making it pretty
Date: Jun 21, 2007
From: "EXT-Allen, David" <david.allen(at)boeing.com>
I started out at ground zero -- never even seen a rivet gun, let alone used one -- luckily I had some friends who helped me get started. Have now completed the tail, wings and half the fuselage on my 9A kit. I had never been really satisfied with the cosmetics of the flush skin rivets -- seems like there is always some slight deformation in the vicinity of each rivet. Somewhere along the line, it occurred to me that the only really "pretty" rivets were those on the stiffeners that were back-riveted. So I switched over to back-riveting everywhere possible -- using a "dumbell" bucking bar (round with about 2" round knob on one end), the standard 3" back-rivet set and a long offset back-riveter when needed to get around rib or bulkhead flanges, etc. -- I got all these from Avery. I'm now using the back-rivet process whether working alone or with an assistant. My assistant (wife) is a little intimidated with using the gun or the bucking bar in the normal riveting process but seems to be much more comfortable with the dumbell bar in the back-riveting process. Communication between the two workers seems to be easier too -- the gun operator can see immediate results of his actions, etc. Bottom line is that I'm more satisfied with the results. You old timers will probably be bored to death with this but hopefully it will be helpful to the beginners -- I wish I could go back and re-do some of my more visible skin surfaces. Dave Allen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Subject: Skin riveting - making it pretty
Date: Jun 21, 2007
Hi David, My back riveting on my -6 was also my best but in part due to the really flat surface of the riveting plate on my bench. I found that riveting the normal way worked OK so long as I pre tested my pressure settings. This was the key for me. I also used only a 2x gun and that was helpful most of the time. Can you share your experience about why you think you had difficulty with riveting? Back riveting works great however so enjoy. Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of EXT-Allen, David > Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 12:17 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Skin riveting - making it pretty > > > I started out at ground zero -- never even seen a rivet gun, let alone > used one -- luckily I had some friends who helped me get started. > Have now completed the tail, wings and half the fuselage on my 9A kit. > > I had never been really satisfied with the cosmetics of the flush skin > rivets -- seems like there is always some slight deformation in the > vicinity of each rivet. > > Somewhere along the line, it occurred to me that the only really > "pretty" rivets were those on the stiffeners that were back-riveted. > > So I switched over to back-riveting everywhere possible -- using a > "dumbell" bucking bar (round with about 2" round knob on one end), the > standard 3" back-rivet set and a long offset back-riveter when needed to > get around rib or bulkhead flanges, etc. -- I got all these from Avery. > > I'm now using the back-rivet process whether working alone or with an > assistant. > > My assistant (wife) is a little intimidated with using the gun or the > bucking bar in the normal riveting process but seems to be much more > comfortable with the dumbell bar in the back-riveting process. > Communication between the two workers seems to be easier too -- the gun > operator can see immediate results of his actions, etc. > > Bottom line is that I'm more satisfied with the results. > > You old timers will probably be bored to death with this but hopefully > it will be helpful to the beginners -- I wish I could go back and re-do > some of my more visible skin surfaces. > > Dave Allen > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "smitty(at)smittysrv.com" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com>
Date: Jun 21, 2007
Subject: Skin riveting - making it pretty
Hi Dave, Someone suggested to me at the beginning of my project to purchase a swivel flush rivet set for my rivet gun. He told me that the swivel on this set would cover my butt when I don't hold the rivet set perfectly perpendicular to the skin when riveting and bucking. http://www.smittysrv.com/toolpics/SwivelFlushRivetSet.jpg Here's an entry on my website where I talk about the pros and cons of backriveting with the 10 inch backriveting tool against using a flush rivet set and rivet gun on the wing skins. I agree that the standard "short" backriveting tool does great work and is indeed preferable when putting in stiffeners. I also put rivet tape over every rivet that I put in. http://www.smittysrv.com/more_stuff.asp?ID=438 Smitty http://SmittysRV.com Original Message: ----------------- From: EXT-Allen, David david.allen(at)boeing.com Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2007 12:16:54 -0500 Subject: RV-List: Skin riveting - making it pretty I started out at ground zero -- never even seen a rivet gun, let alone used one -- luckily I had some friends who helped me get started. Have now completed the tail, wings and half the fuselage on my 9A kit. I had never been really satisfied with the cosmetics of the flush skin rivets -- seems like there is always some slight deformation in the vicinity of each rivet. Somewhere along the line, it occurred to me that the only really "pretty" rivets were those on the stiffeners that were back-riveted. So I switched over to back-riveting everywhere possible -- using a "dumbell" bucking bar (round with about 2" round knob on one end), the standard 3" back-rivet set and a long offset back-riveter when needed to get around rib or bulkhead flanges, etc. -- I got all these from Avery. I'm now using the back-rivet process whether working alone or with an assistant. My assistant (wife) is a little intimidated with using the gun or the bucking bar in the normal riveting process but seems to be much more comfortable with the dumbell bar in the back-riveting process. Communication between the two workers seems to be easier too -- the gun operator can see immediate results of his actions, etc. Bottom line is that I'm more satisfied with the results. You old timers will probably be bored to death with this but hopefully it will be helpful to the beginners -- I wish I could go back and re-do some of my more visible skin surfaces. Dave Allen -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com What can On Demand Business Solutions do for you? http://link.mail2web.com/Business/SharePoint ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2007
From: Dave B <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Skin riveting - making it pretty
Dave, You can get rid of those deformations pretty easily by tapping VERY lightly on the shop head with no bucking bar on the other side. Where I could, I used a universal head set in my rivet gun, otherwise a small hammer will usually do the job. Using the universal rivet set tends to just round off the shop head a little instead of smashing it. Be sure to do a test first so you know how hard you're going to hit it. Dave Bristol -6 So Cal EAA Technical Counselor EXT-Allen, David wrote: > > I started out at ground zero -- never even seen a rivet gun, let alone > used one -- luckily I had some friends who helped me get started. > Have now completed the tail, wings and half the fuselage on my 9A kit. > > I had never been really satisfied with the cosmetics of the flush skin > rivets -- seems like there is always some slight deformation in the > vicinity of each rivet. > > Somewhere along the line, it occurred to me that the only really > "pretty" rivets were those on the stiffeners that were back-riveted. > > So I switched over to back-riveting everywhere possible -- using a > "dumbell" bucking bar (round with about 2" round knob on one end), the > standard 3" back-rivet set and a long offset back-riveter when needed to > get around rib or bulkhead flanges, etc. -- I got all these from Avery. > > I'm now using the back-rivet process whether working alone or with an > assistant. > > My assistant (wife) is a little intimidated with using the gun or the > bucking bar in the normal riveting process but seems to be much more > comfortable with the dumbell bar in the back-riveting process. > Communication between the two workers seems to be easier too -- the gun > operator can see immediate results of his actions, etc. > > Bottom line is that I'm more satisfied with the results. > > You old timers will probably be bored to death with this but hopefully > it will be helpful to the beginners -- I wish I could go back and re-do > some of my more visible skin surfaces. > > Dave Allen > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Falcon instruments
From: "jlfernan" <jlfernan(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Jun 21, 2007
I'm getting ready to start building my 9A panel but have a limited budget(Wife) and am not planning on a glass cockpit. I prefer steam. I want go with an electric AI. Falcon has one along with other instruments with very decent prices. Unfortunately I keep reading bad things about Falcon. I would like to hear from people that have had good experiences with Falcon. -------- Jorge Fernandez N214JL Reserved 9A QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=119939#119939 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2007
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Falcon instruments
Jeorge, I have a Falcon altimeter that I bought early in my fuselage construction, around six years ago. I have been flying for 2-1/2 years and through two altimeter calibrations at a certified repair station. In both calibration checks the altimeter passed with no problems to 20,000 feet. Richard Dudley RV-6A jlfernan wrote: > >I'm getting ready to start building my 9A panel but have a limited budget(Wife) and am not planning on a glass cockpit. I prefer steam. I want go with an electric AI. Falcon has one along with other instruments with very decent prices. Unfortunately I keep reading bad things about Falcon. I would like to hear from people that have had good experiences with Falcon. > >-------- >Jorge Fernandez >N214JL Reserved >9A QB > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=119939#119939 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2007
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Falcon instruments
jlfernan wrote: > > I'm getting ready to start building my 9A panel but have a limited > budget(Wife) and am not planning on a glass cockpit. I prefer steam. > I want go with an electric AI. Falcon has one along with other > instruments with very decent prices. Unfortunately I keep reading bad > things about Falcon. I would like to hear from people that have had > good experiences with Falcon. > Jorge, I certainly understand the budget situation and your preference for analog. But.....if you run the numbers, you may find a Dynon D10A gives you a lot more bang for the buck than a panel full of clock dials. You will have an up-to-date panel *and* a happy financial director. :-) Sam Buchanan http://thervjournal.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Falcon instruments
Date: Jun 21, 2007
Although Sam is usually right he is off a bit here. The D-100 is mucho larger (mo better) and only a small amount more than the D10A. His "numbers" issue is still correct. Go with the D100. http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/EFIS_intro.html Ron Lee > Jorge, I certainly understand the budget situation and your preference > for analog. But.....if you run the numbers, you may find a Dynon D10A > gives you a lot more bang for the buck than a panel full of clock dials. > You will have an up-to-date panel *and* a happy financial director. :-) > > Sam Buchanan > http://thervjournal.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2007
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Falcon instruments
Ron Lee wrote: > > Although Sam is usually right he is off a bit here. The D-100 is mucho > larger (mo better) and only a small amount more than the D10A. His > "numbers" issue is still correct. Go with the D100. > > http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/EFIS_intro.html Agreed. I forgot about the D-100, thanks for the reminder. Sam Buchanan ============= > > >> Jorge, I certainly understand the budget situation and your preference >> for analog. But.....if you run the numbers, you may find a Dynon D10A >> gives you a lot more bang for the buck than a panel full of clock >> dials. You will have an up-to-date panel *and* a happy financial >> director. :-) >> >> Sam Buchanan >> http://thervjournal.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2007
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Subject: Re: Falcon instruments
Dont forget you can get a TruTrak ADI for about $1100. You can also get a backup battery system for it for another $100... It doesn't work exactly the same as an attitude indicator, but it does have some features I believe are better... http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/instruments_ADI.htm http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/faq2.htm#24 -Bill Sam Buchanan wrote: > > Ron Lee wrote: >> >> Although Sam is usually right he is off a bit here. The D-100 is mucho >> larger (mo better) and only a small amount more than the D10A. His >> "numbers" issue is still correct. Go with the D100. >> >> http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/EFIS_intro.html > > > Agreed. I forgot about the D-100, thanks for the reminder. > > Sam Buchanan > > ============= > >> >> >>> Jorge, I certainly understand the budget situation and your preference >>> for analog. But.....if you run the numbers, you may find a Dynon >>> D10A gives you a lot more bang for the buck than a panel full of >>> clock dials. You will have an up-to-date panel *and* a happy >>> financial director. :-) >>> >>> Sam Buchanan >>> http://thervjournal.com >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 2007
Subject: Falcon instruments
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Jorge, I had the Falcon brand AI and had good luck with it. The key to a good life is to ALWAYS errect the gyro's first BEFORE applying power to the instrument. If you do it by powering up the horizon from its resting position takes some gyrations inside the instrument to get errected. I had mine for two years before I sold the aircraft. My proceedure was to grab the caging knob, pull it (gently) to errect the gyro and then turn on the master power. Worked every time. Jim Nelson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV- Flight Bags- Review
Date: Jun 22, 2007
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
Someone had posted a web-link to Bison Mountain. Mmmm, google didn't produce--would someone be so kind as to give a repeat performance. Chuck Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darwin N. Barrie Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2007 11:13 AM Subject: RV-List: RV- Flight Bags- Review I purchased the RV flight bags and chart case from Bison Mountain after seeing them in my friends 7. Previously, I had all of my essential stuff in 3 of the small tool bags from Sears. Other stuff was in the pocket attached to the rear of my seats (Flightline Interior). After getting the flight bags and transferring the stuff I realized I had considerably more space in the bags to carry more stuff!!!! I set them up so all of the stuff I might need every flight was in the left bag (chocks, pitot cover, gust lock etc..). The right bag has tools, fix a flat, tie downs etc... The bags fit very nicely behind the seats of the side by side models. They are tapered to match the angle of the seat back. There is no wasted space. My baggage area is now very neat with much more space. There are many exterior pockets that are easy accessible for the stuff you use for preflight and other minor maintenance items. One of the nice things I really like is the bags are designed with a trough in the bottom that fits over the flap actuation bar. Setting bags on the bar has always concerned me about adding a little undue friction on the bar. There are many ways to set the bags up. You could easily fit everything you need in one bag and use the other one as your "luggage" for personal stuff. It would make one bag heavy but could easily be done. They come with shoulder straps and attachment hardware. I also purchased the chart bag and am still working on an exact location for it. I like the betweent the seat location and will likely leave it there. At first glance the bags seem a little pricey. However these bags are of a very heavy and durable material. (Not heavy in weight but heavy in gauge) The zippers are heavy duty as well. The overall quality is well worth the cost. Most importantly the functionalality of the bags is well worth the price. Definitely designed for the purpose. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Langley Fly-in This Saturday
Date: Jun 22, 2007
> Actually air travel until 30 Sep 2007 requires proof of passport > application and photo ID OR a passport. > > http://travel.state.gov/travel/cbpmc/cbpmc_2223.html > > Ron Lee > Correction. The statement above applies to re-entry into the USA. I do not know what Canadian entry requirements are. This link may provide the data which includes proof of USA citizenship but I just can't provide factual info. http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1082.html Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 2007
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Subject: Langley Fly-in This Saturday
Thanks to everyone for those updates on the passport situation. I hope I can encourage more U.S. RV-ers to come to the fly-in because we really enjoy it when you do. And it gives the fly-in an international flavour. Crossing the border really isn't that big a deal, and there's a whole other world of flying waiting for you up here. Tedd McHenry VAV Western Canada Wing www.vansairforce.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Langley Fly-in This Saturday
Date: Jun 22, 2007
The 20 Jun change applies to sea/land travel in 2008. Air travel changes are as annotated in my previous post. Ron Lee Yep, I think I read what I wanted to hear, not what it said. Checking the US passport site it still says a passport or receipt for an application is needed for air travel. I've been expecting the government to cave to pressure from air travelers and the different industries affected by the new passport rules and they did, but only for people traveling by boat or


June 03, 2007 - June 22, 2007

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