RV-Archive.digest.vol-sz
September 18, 2007 - October 10, 2007
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IFR Approaches In An RV |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
Also, what type of prop you have. Have been in both and the slow down was
amazingly good with the constant speed over fixed.
John J
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 7:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR Approaches In An RV
I question the assertion that it is difficult to slow an RV down.
If you come in at full throttle and chop the power as you enter downwind
then yes it is. So slow down earlier.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 6:36 AM
Subject: RV-List: IFR Approaches In An RV
>
> I don't mean to turn this into an IFR forum, as there are other forums
> for that discussion. However, due to the difficulty of slowing RV's
> down, I'm curious how people approach IFR approaches. In other words,
> when do you start slowing down, what speeds do you use for precision and
> non-precision approaches, when do you start lowering flaps, when do you
> finish lowering flaps, and when do you settle into your final approach
> configuration.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Daniel Snow
> RV-9A, 72 hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR Approaches In An RV |
I have a fixed pitch prop. No problems.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: IFR Approaches In An RV
>
> Also, what type of prop you have. Have been in both and the slow down was
> amazingly good with the constant speed over fixed.
>
> John J
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 7:01 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR Approaches In An RV
>
>
> I question the assertion that it is difficult to slow an RV down.
>
> If you come in at full throttle and chop the power as you enter downwind
> then yes it is. So slow down earlier.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 6:36 AM
> Subject: RV-List: IFR Approaches In An RV
>
>
>>
>> I don't mean to turn this into an IFR forum, as there are other forums
>> for that discussion. However, due to the difficulty of slowing RV's
>> down, I'm curious how people approach IFR approaches. In other words,
>> when do you start slowing down, what speeds do you use for precision and
>> non-precision approaches, when do you start lowering flaps, when do you
>> finish lowering flaps, and when do you settle into your final approach
>> configuration.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Daniel Snow
>> RV-9A, 72 hours
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: IFR Approaches In An RV |
| From: | "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com> |
OK, let me rephrase . . . my RV-9A with fixed-pitch prop is noticeably
different than my old PA-28-160 when approaching an airport. Can
someone please describe the speeds and flap settings you use for the
various phases of precision and non-precision approaches?
Thanks in advance for help.
Daniel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: IFR Approaches In An RV |
Snow, Daniel A. wrote:
> OK, let me rephrase . . . my RV-9A with fixed-pitch prop is noticeably
> different than my old PA-28-160 when approaching an airport.
Yes it is, just start slowing a little sooner. :-)
Can
> someone please describe the speeds and flap settings you use for the
> various phases of precision and non-precision approaches?
100kts, no flaps, unless in a hurry, then 120kts. At 100kts, there is
plenty of time to slow to flap speed (87kts) after hitting minimums.
Once power is pulled to idle, the flaps extended, and the flare
initiated, the RV will slow very quickly with most of the runway still
in front of you.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: IFR Approaches In An RV |
| From: | Michael W Stewart <mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com> |
Daniel,
Your speeds should not be any different IFR, VFR, Precision, or non
precision.
You will fly the same speeds you usually do.
One thing you can do to help practice before hand is do some appraoches
VFR
and follow your needles, carrying your normal approach speeds. Take a
mental snapshot or write down, your power setting to maintain your appr
oach
speed and flaps. This will more easily help you nail a speed on approac
h
rather than hunting for it like you might do now.
Other than that, you will fly your plane the same way you do now in ter
ms
of landing speeds to make touch down.
Best,
Mike
"Snow, Daniel A."
<Daniel.Snow@wanc
df.com>
To
Sent by:
owner-rv-list-ser
cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subj
ect
RV-List: RE: IFR Approaches In A
n
09/18/2007 12:23 RV
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
OK, let me rephrase . . . my RV-9A with fixed-pitch prop is noticeably
different than my old PA-28-160 when approaching an airport. Can someo
ne
please describe the speeds and flap settings you use for the various ph
ases
of precision and non-precision approaches?
Thanks in advance for help.
Daniel
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: IFR Approaches In An RV |
On Sep 18, 2007, at 11:30 AM, Michael W Stewart wrote:
> Daniel,
> Your speeds should not be any different IFR, VFR, Precision, or non
> precision.
> You will fly the same speeds you usually do.
>
My normal VFR approach speed is 65 knots with a very short final. I
don't think ATC is going to be happy with that at all with 6 737s
following me down the ILS. I like to fly an ILS at around 100 to 120
knots minimum and it does take a long time to slow down with my fixed
pitch prop.
To be fair, if the 737s were following me VFR I would probably fly
even faster, but that situation seems to rarely come up VFR.
Larry Pardue
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Air Force Completes Transition of GPS Fleet to Upgraded Control |
System
This is good to see but it makes me a bit nervous to learn that the entire
GPS nav data command and control system is in one location and LA none the
less......
http://www.losangeles.af.mil/news/story.asp?id=123068412
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry James" <larry(at)ncproto.com> |
| Subject: | high temp cable ties - now - engine mount stresses |
Wow, I've never heard of this before .. And it makes sense.
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: high temp cable ties
>>From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
>>
>>Regardless of the temps, it is not acceptable to use cable ties on an
>>engine mount tube. Oil and dirt get under it and start wearing the tube.
>>You need a pair of Adel clamps.
>>KM
>>A&P/IA
So this leads me to two more questions:
1) Given the Engine Mount is a highly stressed piece; is it
acceptable to weld a tab so that something can be bolted to it ??
2) How about Electroless Nickel Plating ???
Larry E. James
Bellevue, WA
Super Decathlon (flying)
Rocket (under contruction - way too long)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | Re: Air Force Completes Transition of GPS Fleet to Upgraded Control |
System
no, it's still controlled by squadrons in colorado. the branch of the air force
that developed the replacement ground control system is headquartered in LA.
The development folks are patting themselves on the back and doing a press release
from their HQ in LA....
"AEP was delivered by the Space and Missile Systems Center's GPS Wing to the 50th
Space Wing to replace the legacy 1970s-era mainframe computer at Schriever
AFB, Colo. "
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
This is good to see but it makes me a bit nervous to learn that the entire GPS
nav data command and control system is in one location and LA none the less
http://www.losangeles.af.mil/news/story.asp?id=123068412
no, it's still controlled by squadrons in colorado. the branch of the
air force that developed the replacement ground control system is headquartered
in LA. The development folks are patting themselves on the back and
doing a press release from their HQ in LA....
"AEP was delivered by the Space and Missile Systems Center's GPS Wing to the
50th Space Wing to replace the legacy 1970s-era mainframe computer at Schriever
AFB, Colo. "
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties - now - engine mount stresses |
Here are two things that might work to protect the tubes:
1. First wrap the engine mount or structural tube with Aluminium heat
duct tape two layers thick then install the cable ties.
2. Use self vulcanizing silicon tape two layers thick then apply the
cable ties.
I think the tapes would keep moisture away well enough.
The silicon tape might help reduce wear due to vibration.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry James
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 2:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: high temp cable ties - now - engine mount stresses
Wow, I've never heard of this before .. And it makes sense.
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: high temp cable ties
>>From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
>>
>>Regardless of the temps, it is not acceptable to use cable ties on
an
>>engine mount tube. Oil and dirt get under it and start wearing the
tube.
>>You need a pair of Adel clamps.
>>KM
>>A&P/IA
So this leads me to two more questions:
1) Given the Engine Mount is a highly stressed piece;
is it acceptable to weld a tab so that something can be bolted to it ??
2) How about Electroless Nickel Plating ???
Larry E. James
Bellevue, WA
Super Decathlon (flying)
Rocket (under contruction - way too long)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties - now - engine mount stresses |
On 15:23 2007-09-18 "Jim Jewell" wrote:
> 2. Use self vulcanizing silicon tape two layers thick then apply the
> cable ties.
I like this solution because the silicone tape is pretty much heat-proof,
and the self-vulcanizing aspect means it's not going to slowly unwrap on
you like black electrical tape would.
That being said, it looks like most of the planes near me have used black
electrical tape.
Either way, check it when you have the cowlings off, and you'll be fine.
You're not going to get enough motion under either kind of tape to wear
through the powdercoating on the mount. And you certainly don't need
expensive and heavy Adel clamps.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: IFR Approaches In An RV |
Daniel,
I also have a fixed pitch and you are right that it takes a little longer to
slow down. But Mike was right. Fly the same speeds you would VFR. You
dont fly VFR approaches at 65kt from 5 mi out from the airport, you
gradually slow down to that speed. Do the same for your IFR flying.
Gradually slow as you approach the airport.
True, that is contrary to the way you may have learned to fly approaches in
a c-172: 80kts, pitch for speed, power for altitude, trim up and drone
along. You can do the same thing in your RV by slowing to 80 and putting
out the flaps at the IAF just like in the cessna.
I fly approaches a little different in my -6 (some would say sloppy?). Long
about the outer marker I go to idle power. Use pitch to stay on the glide
slope. Depending on how fast I was going at the outer marker I either have
to eventually add a little power back in to maintain 70-80kts, or when I
break out I hold altitude and cross control until I reach flap speed. Slows
down pretty quick after that. Timed approach - Whats that?
Unconventional yes, but so are these aircraft. Just go do some VMC and you
will figure out what you like.
JMHO
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
On 9/18/07, Larry Pardue wrote:
>
>
> On Sep 18, 2007, at 11:30 AM, Michael W Stewart wrote:
>
> > Daniel,
> > Your speeds should not be any different IFR, VFR, Precision, or non
> > precision.
> > You will fly the same speeds you usually do.
> >
> My normal VFR approach speed is 65 knots with a very short final. I
> don't think ATC is going to be happy with that at all with 6 737s
> following me down the ILS. I like to fly an ILS at around 100 to 120
> knots minimum and it does take a long time to slow down with my fixed
> pitch prop.
>
> To be fair, if the 737s were following me VFR I would probably fly
> even faster, but that situation seems to rarely come up VFR.
>
> Larry Pardue
>
>
<http://RotaryRoster.net>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Helller <marty_away(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | electric aileron trimp kit, part F-7126 |
Installing the electric aileron trim kit for an RV-7, I seem to be missing
the F-7126 trim links which connect the trim handle to the servo. Unfortun
ately, the Optional drawing 19 doesn't have dimensions. Talking to Vans to
order the part, they recommend to just make it out of .063 aluminum. Do
es anyone have the kit and could trace the part shape? It will be easier t
o fabricate if I don't have to do it several times as I guess at the size/s
hape.
Marty
RV-7, Fitting interior systems
N622HR>
_________________________________________________________________
Connect to the next generation of MSN Messenger-
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV7AODYSSEY(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: My losing fight with a prop |
Hi Stein,
We never know how lucky we are till something goes wrong! I hope your
recovery goes well.
Ed H
RV7A
**************************************
See what's new at
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | IFR Approaches In An RV |
| From: | john(at)jallenplace.com |
=0A
=0AIn my RV6A=C2-with fixed pitch prop I fly at 90kts once I am in the ap
proach environment. I keep in 10 degrees of flaps, and turn the engine abou
t 1800-1900 RPM.=C2- The 10 degrees of flaps tends to make the airplane m
ore stable, though that probably isn't necessary in the -9 (a more stable p
latform to begin with). Generally I limit climb power to about 2100-2200 RP
M which provides 600fpm climb and allows an easier transition back to the 9
0kt speed once I level off.
=0A=C2-
=0AUsing these numbers the airplane is a much more stable platform.=C2-
=0A=C2-
=0AI usually give the approach Controller a heads up that I will be dramati
cally reducing speed and at what point I intend to do so.
=0A=C2-
=0AJohn Allen
=0A=C2-
=0A=0A=C2-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: My losing fight with a prop |
Hi Stein,
Did you hear about the girl who backed into a running prop?
Disassther :)
Get well.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
http://www.evorocket.com - Building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: My losing fight with a prop |
Stein:
Sorry to hear about your prop trouble-- those things have always
scarred me -- I know with your attitude your will make it through
this fine -- I always enjoy talking to you. My panel works great and
looks good -- mostly due to your advice and hard work.
dave
P.S. Did you hear about the butcher who backed up into the meat
grinder and got a little behind in his work???
---- hope you don't get too far behind in yours.
On Sep 19, 2007, at 8:28 AM, Walter Tondu wrote:
>
> Hi Stein,
>
> Did you hear about the girl who backed into a running prop?
>
> Disassther :)
>
> Get well.
>
>
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
> http://www.evorocket.com - Building
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | My losing fight with a prop |
On 12:10 2007-09-19 Dana Overall wrote:
> You know Stein, they make flash tachs that will tell you the RPMs of
> the prop so you don't have to stick your fingers in there:-)
It sounds like he already has a digital model (or at least he did), but I
think he wants a non-contacting model next. :)
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> |
I'm building my RV 7 brake pedals and I decided to buff one up and see how
it looks, and it looks marvelous. Obviously, once installed it would be very
difficult to keep it in Bristol condition, yet every RV I have seen has worn
paint, yada, yada. So, do any of you super experienced builder out there
have a way I could get chrome looking brake pedals that may actually last
for a little while?? Is it possible to chrome plate the aluminum, or would
that compromise the strength some way. I was thinking of buffing and
putting on a few heavy coats of clear coat. Any thought here or am I just
being too possessed to help myself. Thx Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties |
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
John Cox put it very well. As the manufacturer, you can do what you want.
A DAR not finding fault with something does NOT mean it is a good practice
or even safe. I can tell you that as an IA, every Tywrap found attached
around the engine mount on a TC aircraft will be written up as a
discrepancy. Your plane, your experiment, you can do as you choose, at
your own risk.
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> Regardless of the temps, it is not acceptable to use cable ties on an
>> engine mount tube. Oil and dirt get under it and start wearing the tube.
>> You need a pair of Adel clamps.
>
> True.
>
> However, the regular ol' nylon zip ties in the engine compartment of my
> RV-6, some of which are on mount tubes, were not only passed by the DAR,
> but have stood up just fine for eight years and 825 hours and have
> caused no damage.
>
> Maybe it is because oil and dirt are not allowed in the engine
> compartment of my plane. :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties |
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
WRONG! Tie wraps will cut steel engine mount tubing regardless of what
you have under them. It is just a matter of time. If you don't have a
cushion under the tiewrap to prevent it from chafing, it will chafe. But,
if you want to have to occasionally replace or reweld your engine mount,
be my guest. Just remember that the type certificated industry had about
40 years head start on the experimental category in figuring out how to
screw up a perfectly good airplane. You just have the freedom to relearn
others mistakes.
> You can use tie wraps if you use them properly. You are suppose to use one
> to go around both the structure and the cable and don't tighten it but
> then use another tie wrap wraped around the first tie wrap in between the
> cable and structure to tighten the first tie wrap. If installed properly,
> it won't cut into anything.
>
> Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap actuator measurements |
I have a question about the dimensions of the flap actuator from Vans.
The web doesn't give much info about them. I'm building a 7A but
currently have a PL-1 with manual flaps and I'd like to convert them.
What I'm looking for is the info of the actuator itself. What is the
retracted/extended length of the unit? Can you trim the length if
necessary? How heavy is it? I'm thinking of using it in the PL for
electrical flaps. I want to make sure it will fit before I actually buy
one. I will also be comparing it to those linear actuators from
cars/trucks for compatibility.
Carlos in AZ
--
Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Structural Engineers, LLC
2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
Chandler, AZ 85224
Phone: 480.968.8600
Fax: 480.968.8608
www.sec-engr.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Pedals |
Carl, there is a chemical method now used to plate aluminum which
overcomes some of the problem way back when chrome plating of aluminum
was first tired. While I did not have any aluminum chromed I had my
aluminum gear box nickel plated using this technique (it turns it to a
soft gold color) which stands up much better than anodizing/alodizing -
its much tougher.
I was told that it is now used as a prep for chrome plating aluminum -
but, I have not tried it for that.
You can read up on it if you wish starting here is good. or just goggle
Electroless Nickel plating.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electroless_nickel_plating
http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/MetalCoatings/Electroless.htm
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl Bell
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 6:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Pedals
I'm building my RV 7 brake pedals and I decided to buff one up and see
how it looks, and it looks marvelous. Obviously, once installed it would
be very difficult to keep it in Bristol condition, yet every RV I have
seen has worn paint, yada, yada. So, do any of you super experienced
builder out there have a way I could get chrome looking brake pedals
that may actually last for a little while?? Is it possible to chrome
plate the aluminum, or would that compromise the strength some way. I
was thinking of buffing and putting on a few heavy coats of clear coat.
Any thought here or am I just being too possessed to help myself. Thx
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties |
Anyone ever heard of *Koroseal* (as sold by AC-Spruce and others)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/lacing.php
That is the product I would use in the engine compartment instead of
tie-wraps, based on input from much smarter people then myself.
Just because we Experimenters can do whatever they want does not
necessarily make it a necessarily great move...
----- Original Message -----
From: Kelly McMullen
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: high temp cable ties
John Cox put it very well. As the manufacturer, you can do what you
want.
A DAR not finding fault with something does NOT mean it is a good
practice
or even safe. I can tell you that as an IA, every Tywrap found
attached
around the engine mount on a TC aircraft will be written up as a
discrepancy. Your plane, your experiment, you can do as you choose, at
your own risk.
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> Regardless of the temps, it is not acceptable to use cable ties on
an
>> engine mount tube. Oil and dirt get under it and start wearing the
tube.
>> You need a pair of Adel clamps.
>
> True.
>
> However, the regular ol' nylon zip ties in the engine compartment of
my
> RV-6, some of which are on mount tubes, were not only passed by the
DAR,
> but have stood up just fine for eight years and 825 hours and have
> caused no damage.
>
> Maybe it is because oil and dirt are not allowed in the engine
> compartment of my plane. :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Carl,
I chose to powder coat my RV-10 pedals (they look more like
chrome in person). I have zero idea how long my pedals will stay in this
condition. My white painted RV-6A pedals don't look bad after 375 hours.
Attached are my RV-10 pedals.
Robin ndition10 pedals an from HumidTech
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties |
On 09/19 4:43, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> WRONG! Tie wraps will cut steel engine mount tubing regardless of what
> you have under them. It is just a matter of time. If you don't have a
I wrap engine mount tubing with 3 to 4 wraps of self-sticking silicone
tape and put the tie wrap on that. Some of the tape should also be wrapped
around any part being held with the tie wrap as well.
No way that will cut through in my lifetime.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/uniwrap.php
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!
http://www.evorocket.com - Building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> |
Mark,
What color did you use when you coated the brake pedals to look like chrome?
Who does this kind of painting and what is the charge for something like
this. BTW they look great. Thx Carl
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Pedals
Carl,
I chose to powder coat my RV-10 pedals (they look more like
chrome in person). I have zero idea how long my pedals will stay in this
condition. My white painted RV-6A pedals don't look bad after 375 hours.
Attached are my RV-10 pedals.
Robin ndition10 pedals an from HumidTech
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael A Taylor" <mktaylor(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8A baggage door lock |
Has anybody found any other system to latch the forward baggage door other
than Van's lock? I'm wondering if a Hartwell latch would be more secure?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
Carl, check out some of the supplier sites for color options and info. i use
caswell plating (caswellplating.com) out of Rochester NY. they have a wealth
of information if your interested in doing it yourself or want to see what
colors are available. There are a couple chrome like options. if you prep
the pedals you really shouldn't pay more than 5-10 bucks apiece at a retail
shop as they only take 10 mins or so in a 400 deg oven to cure.
Steven dinieri
40205
iflyrv10.com
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 10:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Pedals
Mark,
What color did you use when you coated the brake pedals to look like chrome?
Who does this kind of painting and what is the charge for something like
this. BTW they look great. Thx Carl
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Pedals
Carl,
I chose to powder coat my RV-10 pedals (they look more like
chrome in person). I have zero idea how long my pedals will stay in this
condition. My white painted RV-6A pedals don't look bad after 375 hours.
Attached are my RV-10 pedals.
Robin ndition10 pedals an from HumidTech
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties |
Here's a link to AC 43-13-1B covering wiring bundles, etc. I do not
imagine it is required to be followed on experimentals, but it certainly
is a good guide...
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/0/99c827db9baac81b86256b4500596c4e/$FILE/Chapter%2011.pdf
Hope this helps!
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Mike Divan wrote:
> I have been watching the cable tie debate with interest. Lots of
> things to think about on both sides. My little bird is extremely well
> built (by someone other than me so I can say that) it has cable ties
> and 590 + hours. Checking my little bird out I have noticed that the
> cable ties hav e abraded some paint. I have looked at a 6 just a
> couple hangers away with well over 2000 hours, adle clamps and no
> abraded paint. I will be replacing the cable ties with adle (however
> you spell it) clamps over time. It just seems better to not have
> abraded paint. Anyone trying to decide is welcome to come over and
> take a look if that will help you make a decision. Don't know what is
> wright or wrong or acceptable in this case I just know what I have
> observed and the clamps appear at least to me to be a better choice.
>
> Mike Divan
> Adopted - N64GH (RV6)
> RV7 Builder - SLOW
> EAA - 577486
> FREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOURS!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Tyler" <gptyler(at)metrocast.net> |
| Subject: | Landing gear fairing cuff |
I didn't build my -6, so I hope one of you can help me. The fiberglass
cuff that closes the gap between the landing gear leg fairing and the
fuselage. are held in place by a spring and wire attachment. I assume it
was part of the original build plan. One of these springs broke and I
replaced with a similar looking hardware store spring. It did not last
one flight. Can anyone Identify the spring and a source? Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear fairing cuff |
| From: | Michael W Stewart <mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com> |
It would not have been part of the original kit and is a design area le
ft
up to the builder.
Ace hardware in the aviation section is probably a good choice for
replacement springs.
Best,
Mike
"George Tyler"
To
Sent by:
owner-rv-list-ser
cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subj
ect
RV-List: Landing gear fairing cu
ff
09/20/2007 08:10
AM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
I didn't build my -6, so I hope one of you can help me. The fiberglass
cuff
that closes the gap between the landing gear leg fairing and the fusela
ge.
are held in place by a spring and wire attachment. I assume it was part
of
the original build plan. One of these springs broke and I replaced wit
h a
similar looking hardware store spring. It did not last one flight. Can
anyone Identify the spring and a source? Thanks
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
All, I've had my RV-8A advertised in Trade-A-Plane now for a few weeks and recently
had an email dialogue with someone I believe to be a scam artist. Here's
what occurred:
The first inquiry from this person indicated he was very interested and asked what
type of payment would be acceptable - cashier's check, bank draft or bank
wire. His sentence structure and wording indicated to me that english was probably
not his native language. He also asked for some pictures via email which
I sent and I advised him that I had a CD disk with lots of pix, etc., which I
could send by snail mail if he would give me his address. That never happened.
Supposedly this person was in europe at the time attending a conference which was
to conclude in a few days, after which he could set up a date to come look
at the plane. His last email said that he could not personally check out the plane
because he had been reassigned to "western europe" - he then proposed that
an "inspection/moving representative" come by and look at the plane. In the
meantime, he would send me a "check/bankdraft" for $105K and I would deposit
to my bank account. I would keep 20% as a deposit on the plane and write a check
for the remainder to the representative to cover inspection and moving expenses.
When I received this last email, I replied that his method of payment was not acceptable
and that I would require a bank wire for 10% deposit and another bank
wire for the remainder if his representative found the plane to his liking,
and that any expenses by the representative would be a matter between that person
and the buyer. Since my last response I have heard nothing. It's possible
this guy was a bonafide buyer, but I seriously doubt it ........... In fact, I
spoke with a person in sales at TAP and was told they have heard of numerious
scams concerning the sale of aircraft.
Soooo, just passing it on, if you have an airplane for sale be very careful!
Walt Shipley RV-8, RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A baggage door lock |
Hey Mike,
I used the Van's system and if it is adjusted correctly, it really does
a good job of pulling the baggage door down tightly against the
supports. I also used John Huft's design for the hidden hinge, it
worked out very well and looks good. He has a link from the Vans web
sight.
Paul Rice
RV8 N64PR
45 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael A Taylor<mailto:mktaylor(at)frontiernet.net>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 10:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-8A baggage door lock
Has anybody found any other system to latch the forward baggage door
other than Van's lock? I'm wondering if a Hartwell latch would be more
secure? Thanks
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
ator?RV-List>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear fairing cuff |
I use two bolts with platenuts to hold mine on. One in front and one
on the side. Seems to work well and are easy to take off.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
At 07:49 AM 9/20/07, you wrote:
>It would not have been part of the original kit and is a design area
>left up to the builder.
>Ace hardware in the aviation section is probably a good choice for
>replacement springs.
>Best,
>Mike
>
>Inactive hide details for "George Tyler" "George Tyler"
>
>"George Tyler" Sent by:
>owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>09/20/2007 08:10 AM
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>[]
>
>To
>
>
>[]
>
>cc
>
>[]
>
>Subject
>
>RV-List: Landing gear fairing cuff
>
>I didn't build my -6, so I hope one of you can help me. The
>fiberglass cuff that closes the gap between the landing gear leg
>fairing and the fuselage. are held in place by a spring and wire
>attachment. I assume it was part of the original build plan. One of
>these springs broke and I replaced with a similar looking hardware
>store spring. It did not last one flight. Can anyone Identify the
>spring and a source? Thanks
>
>
>====================================
>?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>====================================
>u>http://forums.matronics.com
>====================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties |
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
What some folks have been missing in this discussion is that your engine
mount is rather important, and is designed for that single purpose. It is
not designed to be the hangar or mount for a bunch of other stuff.
Minimize what you attach to the mount by any means, and use the best
techniques you can if you feel you have to attach something to the mount.
Nuff said.
> I have been watching the cable tie debate with interest. Lots of things to
> think about on both sides. My little bird is extremely well built (by
> someone other than me so I can say that) it has cable ties and 590 +
> hours. Checking my little bird out I have noticed that the cable ties hav
> e abraded some paint. I have looked at a 6 just a couple hangers away with
> well over 2000 hours, adle clamps and no abraded paint. I will be
> replacing the cable ties with adle (however you spell it) clamps over
> time. It just seems better to not have abraded paint. Anyone trying to
> decide is welcome to come over and take a look if that will help you make
> a decision. Don't know what is wright or wrong or acceptable in this case
> I just know what I have observed and the clamps appear at least to me to
> be a better choice.
>
> Mike Divan
> Adopted - N64GH (RV6)
> RV7 Builder - SLOW
> EAA - 577486
> FREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOURS!
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: John W. Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 6:41:46 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: high temp cable ties
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Depending on how hands on you are or how much you are into collecting tools
, you can easily do small parts yourself. Here is a popular system with a
load of different powders....
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=412&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1
%2C2%2C458%2C459%2C460&KickerID=68&KICKER
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=845&itemType=CATEGORY
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=18797&it
emType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=844&iSubCat=847&iProductID=18797
Michael Sausen
-10 Limbo
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Pedals
Mark,
What color did you use when you coated the brake pedals to look like chrome
? Who does this kind of painting and what is the charge for something like
this. BTW they look great. Thx Carl
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Pedals
Carl,
I chose to powder coat my RV-10 pedals (they look more like chr
ome in person). I have zero idea how long my pedals will stay in this condi
tion. My white painted RV-6A pedals don't look bad after 375 hours. Attache
d are my RV-10 pedals.
Robin ndition10 pedals an from HumidTech
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Possible Scam |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Thanks Carl,
The pedals are powder coated not painted. I selected the
chrome color (and the blue) from a list of color choices making sure to
select powder coatings that had a high durability rating and had a UV
inhibitor component so they would not change color over time when
exposed to the sun. Using the powder coating material rated for
"exterior" is a good start.
As far as cost is concerned that may depend on who you
take your parts to however I have found that the biggest cost is the
first piece, if you have a selection of 12 parts all the same color it
probably will not cost much more than having one piece done since there
is a bit of set up involved and spraying 12 parts on a rack is just
about as easy as spraying one part.
I know there are MANY people on the list more qualified
to discuss this process on the list me but if cost is a concern or you
are one of the "do everything yourself types" then you can powder coat
(PC) your parts yourself relatively inexpensively. I own a manufacturing
facility and we set up a PC booth out of half a refrigerator box and
coat hangers. One can buy a PC gun on eBay new for $100.00 and the
actual powder is inexpensive. The only problem is that a sprayed part
needs to be baked in an oven for 10-20 minutes at 350-400 degrees (time
& temp specified by powder manufacturer). It is not difficult to get
good at this but I warn you that once you start it's hard to stop powder
coating things. Also note that the oven should not be used for food once
it has been used for powder coating.
I have purchased PC powder from this company for some
home furnishing projects. Ebay is also a good source for powder.
https://www.pendrypowdercoatings.com/shop/index.php?osCsid=949392b82a9d
5
6a221209d308cdf6b23
Good luck,
Robin Marks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
All that will get you is a $25 charge from your bank when the check bounces.
>> How about taking the larger then asking price (although fake) check and
then simply
>> disappear on the scammer.....
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
The good news is that this only represented a financial scam...
A friend of a friend was selling his mint condition Arizona
based Baron. He received a call from an interested party and took them
up for a flight. They never returned. Long story/short. The "buyer" had
been released from prison the day before; he got cleaned up and started
placing calls to purchase an airplane. Apparently on the demo flight the
convict either killed or disabled the seller then landed in the desert
where he may have finished the job and dumped the body. The owner was
missing for about 4 weeks (from my recollection). The authorities found
the body around the same time the convict was caught in the process of
committing another crime in another state. The authorities has no idea
that this was a crime as it looked more like a missing plane in the
desert. Because of the relatively short time between first call and the
flight very few people were in the loop as to who the "buyer" was and
what the plans were relative to the demo flight. Basically no one knew
this was a "plane jacking" till his body was discovered.
There are many lessons here but I don't know where to begin to
discuss them.
Let's be careful out there,
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cornonado Airport |
When did they close Coronado and why? I used to fly in NM, my RV
spent much of it's live in NM before it was completed.. Always hate
to hear of airport closures.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
At 12:07 PM 9/20/07, you wrote:
>Dear Robin,
>Unfortunately, your story it true...
>The plane ended up at the (now closed) Coronado Airport here in
>Albuquerque, NM, with the victims blood all over the interior...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Tyler" <gptyler(at)metrocast.net> |
| Subject: | Landing gear fairing cuff |
Thanks for the info. I was hoping someone would tell me what they did if
not the spring.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing gear fairing cuff
I use two bolts with platenuts to hold mine on. One in front and one
on the side. Seems to work well and are easy to take off.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
At 07:49 AM 9/20/07, you wrote:
>It would not have been part of the original kit and is a design area
>left up to the builder.
>Ace hardware in the aviation section is probably a good choice for
>replacement springs.
>Best,
>Mike
>
>Inactive hide details for "George Tyler" "George Tyler"
>
>"George Tyler" Sent by:
>owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>09/20/2007 08:10 AM
>Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
>[]
>
>To
>
>
>[]
>
>cc
>
>[]
>
>Subject
>
>RV-List: Landing gear fairing cuff
>
>I didn't build my -6, so I hope one of you can help me. The
>fiberglass cuff that closes the gap between the landing gear leg
>fairing and the fuselage. are held in place by a spring and wire
>attachment. I assume it was part of the original build plan. One of
>these springs broke and I replaced with a similar looking hardware
>store spring. It did not last one flight. Can anyone Identify the
>spring and a source? Thanks
>
>
>====================================
>?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>====================================
>u>http://forums.matronics.com
>====================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cornonado Airport |
If that is at the north edge of Albuquerque, it has been several years.
Consider AEG
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared5(at)brier.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cornonado Airport
>
> When did they close Coronado and why? I used to fly in NM, my RV
> spent much of it's live in NM before it was completed.. Always hate
> to hear of airport closures.
>
> Bob
> RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
>
>
> At 12:07 PM 9/20/07, you wrote:
>>Dear Robin,
>>Unfortunately, your story it true...
>>The plane ended up at the (now closed) Coronado Airport here in
>>Albuquerque, NM, with the victims blood all over the interior...
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy part way open latch |
Hi all,
I don't have any locks on my canopy but would like to put a latch of some
kind where it would stay open just about 4 inches. The problem is when I am
taxing I like to leave it ajar so I can get the breeze in. It doesn't
really stay there by itself as it tries to slide on back. It will stay if I
push it almost closed but then it is too easy to forget to latch it.
Does anybody have an idea or something they have done to put a small latch
inside for keeping it just a few inches open?
I am wondering about the stock locks that go in the canopy. They provide
for a means to lock in partly open as well but wasn't sure if that was
operable from inside without the key in the lock. Someday I may install the
stock lock system but it seemed so un-secure that I didn't really see the
point. I keep my plane in a hangar but when I travel it obviously is out on
the ramp.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
RV-6
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stephen Fleming <castolon(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cornonado Airport |
Bob wrote:
>
> When did they close Coronado and why? I used to fly in NM, my RV
> spent much of it's live in NM before it was completed.. Always hate
> to hear of airport closures.
>
> Bob
> RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
The airport was on the Sandia Indian Reservation (they bought it in 1994
under a corporation name not clearly associated at the time with the
tribe) and they no longer wanted it. The reason given was closure for
'safety'. That sort of was true....they subsequently built a Casino just
NE of the approach end of runway 17 that would have had aircraft
overflying the facility.
Go to
http://www.airfields-freeman.com/NM/Airfields_NM_Albuquerque.html#coronado
where you can see an aerial photo of the airport and casino, and a link
to the 'official' explanation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Canopy part way open latch |
I cut cereal box cardboard in an L shape. The long part is .25" by 1.5". the
other part is the handle. One or 2 layers is enough thickness to keep my
slider from sliding when put under the roller and rolling it back. You can
cut and fold in such a way to get 2 or 3 layers, and one layer can be
shorter to keep the roller from going back. Like a mini wheel chock.
Dale
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 2:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy part way open latch
Hi all,
I don't have any locks on my canopy but would like to put a latch of some
kind where it would stay open just about 4 inches. The problem is when I am
taxing I like to leave it ajar so I can get the breeze in. It doesn't
really stay there by itself as it tries to slide on back. It will stay if I
push it almost closed but then it is too easy to forget to latch it.
Does anybody have an idea or something they have done to put a small latch
inside for keeping it just a few inches open?
I am wondering about the stock locks that go in the canopy. They provide
for a means to lock in partly open as well but wasn't sure if that was
operable from inside without the key in the lock. Someday I may install the
stock lock system but it seemed so un-secure that I didn't really see the
point. I keep my plane in a hangar but when I travel it obviously is out on
the ramp.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
RV-6
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <ollie6a(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy part way open latch |
Tim,
I have a simple lock that has worked for years and is really simple,which
I need.
I took a piece of piano wire and put a small loop in one end for a screw
to fit through,then about 4-6 inchs from that I bent it 90* . I fastened
this to the front of canopy near the roller and drilled a hole through the
rail at the distance I wanted the canopy open. The 90* bend goes in this
hole and the canopy stays open.Simpler to do than try and explain.
Ollie 6A Central Fl.
On 9/20/07, Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I don't have any locks on my canopy but would like to put a latch of some
> kind where it would stay open just about 4 inches. The problem is when I
> am
> taxing I like to leave it ajar so I can get the breeze in. It doesn't
> really stay there by itself as it tries to slide on back. It will stay if
> I
> push it almost closed but then it is too easy to forget to latch it.
>
> Does anybody have an idea or something they have done to put a small latch
> inside for keeping it just a few inches open?
>
>
> I am wondering about the stock locks that go in the canopy. They provide
> for a means to lock in partly open as well but wasn't sure if that was
> operable from inside without the key in the lock. Someday I may install
> the
> stock lock system but it seemed so un-secure that I didn't really see the
> point. I keep my plane in a hangar but when I travel it obviously is out
> on
> the ramp.
>
> Any ideas would be appreciated.
> RV-6
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy part way open latch |
Check with the RV8 guys....when they're flying solo they wouldn't want that thing
sliding all the way back.
I've got a note in to my local -8 driver - I know he did his that way.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
>Sent: Sep 20, 2007 2:36 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Canopy part way open latch
>
>
>Hi all,
>
>I don't have any locks on my canopy but would like to put a latch of some
>kind where it would stay open just about 4 inches. The problem is when I am
>taxing I like to leave it ajar so I can get the breeze in. It doesn't
>really stay there by itself as it tries to slide on back. It will stay if I
>push it almost closed but then it is too easy to forget to latch it.
>
>Does anybody have an idea or something they have done to put a small latch
>inside for keeping it just a few inches open?
>
>
>I am wondering about the stock locks that go in the canopy. They provide
>for a means to lock in partly open as well but wasn't sure if that was
>operable from inside without the key in the lock. Someday I may install the
>stock lock system but it seemed so un-secure that I didn't really see the
>point. I keep my plane in a hangar but when I travel it obviously is out on
>the ramp.
>
>Any ideas would be appreciated.
>RV-6
>Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Possible Scam |
Walt,
Glad you weren't taken in by this. I used to work for an ISP and we got
reports of this sort of thing left and right. Friends in banking and law
enforcement and they report the same. First time I've heard of this
being done for an airplane. Then again, maybe they just want the check
and not the plane. The newest Internet scam I am aware of is "free" pure
breed puppies if you pay $800 to have them shipped from Africa. They
would be full grown by the time they got through quarantine. Well, that
assumes the puppies exist at all.
Mark
rveighta wrote:
>
> All, I've had my RV-8A advertised in Trade-A-Plane now for a few weeks and recently
had an email dialogue with someone I believe to be a scam artist. Here's
what occurred:
>
> The first inquiry from this person indicated he was very interested and asked
what type of payment would be acceptable - cashier's check, bank draft or bank
wire. His sentence structure and wording indicated to me that english was probably
not his native language. He also asked for some pictures via email which
I sent and I advised him that I had a CD disk with lots of pix, etc., which
I could send by snail mail if he would give me his address. That never happened.
>
> Supposedly this person was in europe at the time attending a conference which
was to conclude in a few days, after which he could set up a date to come look
at the plane. His last email said that he could not personally check out the
plane because he had been reassigned to "western europe" - he then proposed that
an "inspection/moving representative" come by and look at the plane. In the
meantime, he would send me a "check/bankdraft" for $105K and I would deposit
to my bank account. I would keep 20% as a deposit on the plane and write a check
for the remainder to the representative to cover inspection and moving expenses.
>
> When I received this last email, I replied that his method of payment was not
acceptable and that I would require a bank wire for 10% deposit and another bank
wire for the remainder if his representative found the plane to his liking,
and that any expenses by the representative would be a matter between that person
and the buyer. Since my last response I have heard nothing. It's possible
this guy was a bonafide buyer, but I seriously doubt it ........... In fact,
I spoke with a person in sales at TAP and was told they have heard of numerious
scams concerning the sale of aircraft.
>
> Soooo, just passing it on, if you have an airplane for sale be very careful!
>
> Walt Shipley RV-8, RV-8A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties |
Mike Divan wrote:
> I have been watching the cable tie debate with interest. Lots of
> things to think about on both sides. My little bird is extremely well
> built (by someone other than me so I can say that) it has cable ties
> and 590 + hours. Checking my little bird out I have noticed that the
> cable ties hav e abraded some paint. I have looked at a 6 just a
> couple hangers away with well over 2000 hours, adle clamps and no
> abraded paint. I will be replacing the cable ties with adle (however
> you spell it) clamps over time. It just seems better to not have
> abraded paint. Anyone trying to decide is welcome to come over and
> take a look if that will help you make a decision. Don't know what is
> wright or wrong or acceptable in this case I just know what I have
> observed and the clamps appear at least to me to be a better choice.
Since my original post has been quoted on several of the replies in this
thread, I want to clear up a couple of things:
1) I agreed with the the person to whom I replied that adel clamps are
the preferred way to secure item to the engine mount tubes. I have
several adel clamps in my engine installation.
2) I disagree with the assertion that the use of cable ties will always
doom your engine mount to certain damage. Mine and the experience of
many other builders would invalidate this position.
Our engine compartments are monitored much more closely than many
certificated planes and we have ample opportunity to catch problems
before they become problems. If you have used cable ties to attach
wiring to the mount, then replacing them with adel clamps would
certainly be in keeping with certificated practice. But if the ties
remain in place, just keep an eye on them and replace them if/when you
see anything that bothers you.
Common sense rules. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | forsale Icom A200 |
| From: | cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com |
On www.vansairforce.net there is a group buy for the new Icom A210. I have joined in on this
deal (They should cost around $1100 or so) . The A210 is a plug and play with the
A200 so I will be selling
my A200 with a new tray. I started using this new NON TSO A200 in Feb 2007. It
has worked great but I would
like the ability to monitor a standby freq. I think I paid around $700 for the
A200 and will be looking to sell
the A200 around $600 and I will pay ground shipping to the 48 states. The group
buy ends Oct 12 so I would think
the A200 will be shipped within 30 days of that time. I hate to let it sit on the
shelf waiting for the next project.
No money now......just someone that says they want it and I will contact you when
the new radio is here.
Any takers?
Sal Capra
N898SC? RV8
Lakeland FL
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Possible Scam |
Sound like a scam to me. I don't understand why they would send more
than a down payment and ask you to refund a portion of the check unless
their $105K check was worthless and you sent off a check before that
fact would have been discovered. Sounds like you were alert and it was
good for you to insist on normal terms like they send you X% down and
the rest at delivery...
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
rveighta wrote:
>
>All, I've had my RV-8A advertised in Trade-A-Plane now for a few weeks and recently
had an email dialogue with someone I believe to be a scam artist. Here's
what occurred:
>
>The first inquiry from this person indicated he was very interested and asked
what type of payment would be acceptable - cashier's check, bank draft or bank
wire. His sentence structure and wording indicated to me that english was probably
not his native language. He also asked for some pictures via email which
I sent and I advised him that I had a CD disk with lots of pix, etc., which I
could send by snail mail if he would give me his address. That never happened.
>
>Supposedly this person was in europe at the time attending a conference which
was to conclude in a few days, after which he could set up a date to come look
at the plane. His last email said that he could not personally check out the
plane because he had been reassigned to "western europe" - he then proposed that
an "inspection/moving representative" come by and look at the plane. In the
meantime, he would send me a "check/bankdraft" for $105K and I would deposit
to my bank account. I would keep 20% as a deposit on the plane and write a check
for the remainder to the representative to cover inspection and moving expenses.
>
>When I received this last email, I replied that his method of payment was not
acceptable and that I would require a bank wire for 10% deposit and another bank
wire for the remainder if his representative found the plane to his liking,
and that any expenses by the representative would be a matter between that person
and the buyer. Since my last response I have heard nothing. It's possible
this guy was a bonafide buyer, but I seriously doubt it ........... In fact,
I spoke with a person in sales at TAP and was told they have heard of numerious
scams concerning the sale of aircraft.
>
>Soooo, just passing it on, if you have an airplane for sale be very careful!
>
>Walt Shipley RV-8, RV-8A
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties |
On the other hand, I have seen damage on our 6a caused by cable ties.
Most places, it just wore through the paint. Other places, it did some
some damage to the metal. We still have some cable ties, but now they
have tape or rubber hose between them and the engine mount. I highly
recommend protecting the engine mount from cable ties and any other
possible cause of chafing. Even if the metal isn't damaged, it is
unprotected from corrosion unless you chase it down, prime and paint it.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Mike Divan wrote:
>
>> I have been watching the cable tie debate with interest. Lots of
>> things to think about on both sides. My little bird is extremely well
>> built (by someone other than me so I can say that) it has cable ties
>> and 590 + hours. Checking my little bird out I have noticed that the
>> cable ties hav e abraded some paint. I have looked at a 6 just a
>> couple hangers away with well over 2000 hours, adle clamps and no
>> abraded paint. I will be replacing the cable ties with adle (however
>> you spell it) clamps over time. It just seems better to not have
>> abraded paint. Anyone trying to decide is welcome to come over and
>> take a look if that will help you make a decision. Don't know what is
>> wright or wrong or acceptable in this case I just know what I have
>> observed and the clamps appear at least to me to be a better choice.
>
>
> Since my original post has been quoted on several of the replies in
> this thread, I want to clear up a couple of things:
>
> 1) I agreed with the the person to whom I replied that adel clamps are
> the preferred way to secure item to the engine mount tubes. I have
> several adel clamps in my engine installation.
>
> 2) I disagree with the assertion that the use of cable ties will
> always doom your engine mount to certain damage. Mine and the
> experience of many other builders would invalidate this position.
>
> Our engine compartments are monitored much more closely than many
> certificated planes and we have ample opportunity to catch problems
> before they become problems. If you have used cable ties to attach
> wiring to the mount, then replacing them with adel clamps would
> certainly be in keeping with certificated practice. But if the ties
> remain in place, just keep an eye on them and replace them if/when you
> see anything that bothers you.
>
> Common sense rules. :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties |
Good grief......now my post to clear up how I was originally misquoted
has been misquoted.........
Guess I will just have to go hang myself with some oil-soaked, abraded
nylon cable ties..... ;-)
Sam Buchanan
======================
Ed wrote:
>
> On the other hand, I have seen damage on our 6a caused by cable ties.
> Most places, it just wore through the paint. Other places, it did some
> some damage to the metal. We still have some cable ties, but now they
> have tape or rubber hose between them and the engine mount. I highly
> recommend protecting the engine mount from cable ties and any other
> possible cause of chafing. Even if the metal isn't damaged, it is
> unprotected from corrosion unless you chase it down, prime and paint it.
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>>
>> Mike Divan wrote:
>>
>>> I have been watching the cable tie debate with interest. Lots of
>>> things to think about on both sides. My little bird is extremely well
>>> built (by someone other than me so I can say that) it has cable ties
>>> and 590 + hours. Checking my little bird out I have noticed that the
>>> cable ties hav e abraded some paint. I have looked at a 6 just a
>>> couple hangers away with well over 2000 hours, adle clamps and no
>>> abraded paint. I will be replacing the cable ties with adle (however
>>> you spell it) clamps over time. It just seems better to not have
>>> abraded paint. Anyone trying to decide is welcome to come over and
>>> take a look if that will help you make a decision. Don't know what is
>>> wright or wrong or acceptable in this case I just know what I have
>>> observed and the clamps appear at least to me to be a better choice.
>>
>>
>>
>> Since my original post has been quoted on several of the replies in
>> this thread, I want to clear up a couple of things:
>>
>> 1) I agreed with the the person to whom I replied that adel clamps are
>> the preferred way to secure item to the engine mount tubes. I have
>> several adel clamps in my engine installation.
>>
>> 2) I disagree with the assertion that the use of cable ties will
>> always doom your engine mount to certain damage. Mine and the
>> experience of many other builders would invalidate this position.
>>
>> Our engine compartments are monitored much more closely than many
>> certificated planes and we have ample opportunity to catch problems
>> before they become problems. If you have used cable ties to attach
>> wiring to the mount, then replacing them with adel clamps would
>> certainly be in keeping with certificated practice. But if the ties
>> remain in place, just keep an eye on them and replace them if/when you
>> see anything that bothers you.
>>
>> Common sense rules. :-)
>>
>> Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Hilderbrand <m_hilderbrand(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Possible Scam |
I had a similar situation trying to sell some of my RC stuff. This perosn
actually sent me a cashiers check! I took it to the bank and they looked i
nto the check, oh yeah, it was fraudulent! As long as they are out of the
country, I guess there is nothing a person can really do about it... buyer
beware! If it sounds fishy.. it probably is. =0A =0AMichael Hilderbrand
=0ADerby, Kansas=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: rveight
a =0ATo: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" =0ASent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 8:15:18 AM=0ASubject: RV-List: P
hlink.net>=0A=0AAll, I've had my RV-8A advertised in Trade-A-Plane now for
a few weeks and recently had an email dialogue with someone I believe to be
a scam artist. Here's what occurred:=0A=0AThe first inquiry from this pers
on indicated he was very interested and asked what type of payment would be
acceptable - cashier's check, bank draft or bank wire. His sentence struct
ure and wording indicated to me that english was probably not his native la
nguage. He also asked for some pictures via email which I sent and I advise
d him that I had a CD disk with lots of pix, etc., which I could send by sn
ail mail if he would give me his address. That never happened.=0A=0ASuppose
dly this person was in europe at the time attending a conference which was
to conclude in a few days, after which he could set up a date to come look
at the plane. His last email said that he could not personally check out th
e plane because he had been reassigned to "western europe" - he then propos
ed that an "inspection/moving representative" come by and look at the plane
. In the meantime, he would send me a "check/bankdraft" for $105K and I wo
uld deposit to my bank account. I would keep 20% as a deposit on the plane
and write a check for the remainder to the representative to cover inspecti
on and moving expenses.=0A=0AWhen I received this last email, I replied tha
t his method of payment was not acceptable and that I would require a bank
wire for 10% deposit and another bank wire for the remainder if his represe
ntative found the plane to his liking, and that any expenses by the represe
ntative would be a matter between that person and the buyer. Since my last
response I have heard nothing. It's possible this guy was a bonafide buyer,
but I seriously doubt it ........... In fact, I spoke with a person in sal
es at TAP and was told they have heard of numerious scams concerning the sa
le of aircraft.=0A=0ASoooo, just passing it on, if you have an airplane for
================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <billdube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | A123 Systems Batteries in new Cessna |
Here is a link to the article:
http://home.businesswire.com/portal/site/home/index.jsp?ndmViewId=news_view&ndmConfigId=1000001&newsId 070919005033&newsLang=en
Cessna is going to use A123 Systems Nano-phosphate batteries in their jets.
These are the same batteries I use in my electric drag bike. As I
said over a year ago, these are prefect batteries for aircraft
applications. Lightweight, enormous power, lots of energy, about 4 to
5 times the cycle life, and safer than other battery technologies.
Basically, you forget everything you thought you knew about
batteries. These are an enormous leap forward.
I made a 3.5 lb 12 volt battery for my GMC van from A123 Systems
cells to replace the original 35 lb battery. 720 cranking amps. No joke.
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Williams" <mr.gsun+rv-list(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A123 Systems Batteries in new Cessna |
How do I get one for my RV-7 ?
On 9/20/07, Bill Dube wrote:
>
>
> Here is a link to the article:
>
> http://home.businesswire.com/portal/site/home/index.jsp?ndmViewId=news_view&ndmConfigId=1000001&newsId 070919005033&newsLang=en
>
> Cessna is going to use A123 Systems Nano-phosphate batteries in their
> jets.
>
> These are the same batteries I use in my electric drag bike. As I
> said over a year ago, these are prefect batteries for aircraft
> applications. Lightweight, enormous power, lots of energy, about 4 to
> 5 times the cycle life, and safer than other battery technologies.
> Basically, you forget everything you thought you knew about
> batteries. These are an enormous leap forward.
>
> I made a 3.5 lb 12 volt battery for my GMC van from A123 Systems
> cells to replace the original 35 lb battery. 720 cranking amps. No joke.
>
> Bill Dube'
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
---Gawd, don't these scammers have anything better to do than dream up
crap like this?---
Well, not really. It's a full time job and can be quite lucrative if
they are good at it...and we are bad at it. The Nigerian "we have money
we want to send you, all we need is your bank account number to send it
to" is a scam that was good for about $35,000,000 last year. P.T.
Barnum had the situation covered in his famous saying. Make sure they
skip your minute.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties - now - engine mount stresses |
One easy trick is to buy a bunch of different diameter plastic tubing
and cut small sections to wrap around your engine mount before using
your tie wrap.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
325 hours
Chicago
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry James
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 4:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: high temp cable ties - now - engine mount stresses
Wow, I've never heard of this before .. And it makes sense.
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: high temp cable ties
>>From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
>>
>>Regardless of the temps, it is not acceptable to use cable ties on
an
>>engine mount tube. Oil and dirt get under it and start wearing the
tube.
>>You need a pair of Adel clamps.
>>KM
>>A&P/IA
So this leads me to two more questions:
1) Given the Engine Mount is a highly stressed piece;
is it acceptable to weld a tab so that something can be bolted to it ??
2) How about Electroless Nickel Plating ???
Larry E. James
Bellevue, WA
Super Decathlon (flying)
Rocket (under contruction - way too long)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties |
I see tie wraps on certified planes all the time. What gives?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
325 hours
Chicago
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: high temp cable ties
>
> John Cox put it very well. As the manufacturer, you can do what you want.
> A DAR not finding fault with something does NOT mean it is a good practice
> or even safe. I can tell you that as an IA, every Tywrap found attached
> around the engine mount on a TC aircraft will be written up as a
> discrepancy. Your plane, your experiment, you can do as you choose, at
> your own risk.
>
>>
>> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>
>>> Regardless of the temps, it is not acceptable to use cable ties on an
>>> engine mount tube. Oil and dirt get under it and start wearing the tube.
>>> You need a pair of Adel clamps.
>>
>> True.
>>
>> However, the regular ol' nylon zip ties in the engine compartment of my
>> RV-6, some of which are on mount tubes, were not only passed by the DAR,
>> but have stood up just fine for eight years and 825 hours and have
>> caused no damage.
>>
>> Maybe it is because oil and dirt are not allowed in the engine
>> compartment of my plane. :-)
>>
>> Sam Buchanan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A123 Systems Batteries in new Cessna |
| From: | "Greg B Arehart" <arehart(at)unr.edu> |
Bill,
The link you posted did not work for me, but the A123 website is:
http://www.a123systems.com/newsite/index.php#/products/cells32series/
There is no pricing or ordering info on the website (unless you are a
high-volume OEM customer) - can you give me (us) an idea of what these
cost and where to get them?
Greg Arehart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <billdube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A123 Systems Batteries in new Cessna |
The trouble is that no one wants to take on the liability of
marketing to experimental aircraft.
While these batteries, overall, are safer than other types of
batteries, they still are batteries that store energy and have some
hazards. These hazards are less, but different. This is all you need
in a courtroom to get the traction you need with a jury for a
successful lawsuit.
Folks are coming out with 12 volt batteries that use these exact
cells for other applications. They won't sell you them for an
airplane, but they will sell them for your car stereo, race car, or
computer back-up power supply, etc.
Just like you go down to NAPA and buy an electric fuel pump
for your tractor.
Bill Dube'
At 12:38 AM 9/21/2007, you wrote:
>How do I get one for my RV-7 ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: high temp cable ties |
Did they have tie wraps to the engine mount when they were delivered
from the factory, or where they added later?
Kevin Horton
On 21 Sep 2007, at 10:27, Jeff Dowling wrote:
>
>
> I see tie wraps on certified planes all the time. What gives?
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 325 hours
> Chicago
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen"
>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 6:28 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: high temp cable ties
>
>
>>
>> John Cox put it very well. As the manufacturer, you can do what
>> you want.
>> A DAR not finding fault with something does NOT mean it is a good
>> practice
>> or even safe. I can tell you that as an IA, every Tywrap found
>> attached
>> around the engine mount on a TC aircraft will be written up as a
>> discrepancy. Your plane, your experiment, you can do as you
>> choose, at
>> your own risk.
>>
>>>
>>> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Regardless of the temps, it is not acceptable to use cable ties
>>>> on an
>>>> engine mount tube. Oil and dirt get under it and start wearing
>>>> the tube.
>>>> You need a pair of Adel clamps.
>>>
>>> True.
>>>
>>> However, the regular ol' nylon zip ties in the engine compartment
>>> of my
>>> RV-6, some of which are on mount tubes, were not only passed by
>>> the DAR,
>>> but have stood up just fine for eight years and 825 hours and have
>>> caused no damage.
>>>
>>> Maybe it is because oil and dirt are not allowed in the engine
>>> compartment of my plane. :-)
>>>
>>> Sam Buchanan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
My old old VM1000 which sat in a box for about 6 years is running now
and showing 15 - 20 deg. F low readings on CHT3. (Using 160 - 190 deg.
water to test the with.) I've swapped cables and thermocouples and even
the socketted multiplexor chips that the thermocouples connect to. The
low readings always stay with CHT3. The same cable connected to a
different channel works OK.
In talking to what's left of vision micro, the guy seemed to not be too
disturbed by a 20 deg. error. A 5 deg. error would certainly not be a
problem, but I think 20 deg. is getting too big for a parameter that you
want to see stay below 400 deg. What kind of accuracy do people
normally expect in CHT readings?
Tom Sargent,
RV-6A, electrical system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
I just downloaded a demo of this program on my MAC.
Are there any instructions on how to get started, ie, set it up for
my log book, airplane?
Richard Reynolds
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Filliform looks like? |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
I have just pulled out my wing root fairings (p/n F999 ) and pulled the
blue skin from the underside of the fairing. It looks like there is some
form of "corrosion" that looks like a fuzzy worm that snakes around from
an edge. It is only on my wing root fairings and is covering the one
edge of the fairing where the factory holes are located. Both fairings
have this condition. If it is the "filliform" corrosion, can I
eliminate it from the part? if so, how is the best way? If it is left
as is, since this a nonstructural part, will it contaminate any other
parts such as my wing skins? Its one of those "got to know about this"
items.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vinnfizz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Filliform looks like? |
Check out this link for examples. The second link shows a time lapse of
filliform growing. Pretty neat!
_http://www.asnt.org/publications/Materialseval/basics/oct03basics/oct03basicsfig1.htm#fig1a_
(http://www.asnt.org/publications/Materialseval/basics/oct03basics/oct03basicsfig1.htm#fig1a)
_http://aluminium.matter.org.uk/content/html/eng/default.asp?catid=180&pageid
2144416691_
(http://aluminium.matter.org.uk/content/html/eng/default.asp?catid=180&pageid=2144416691)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vinnfizz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Filliform looks like? |
Jim,
Best bet would to apply some elbow grease to it with Scotch Brite pads , a
little Alumaprep acid etch, Alodyne and followed by your favorite primer then
the part will have the best chance to endure and to ensure no chance of
contributing to more corrosion. As they say "airplanes are Bio-Degradable.
Everything the plane comes into contact with will cause corrosion of one form or
another if left unchecked. Protect it best you can.
Ed Flow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Filliform looks like? |
Jim
I had the same problem on one of the pats of my -10 tail cone. I just called
Van's and they sent a replacement part. Their initial suggestion was to
scotch brite the corrosion out. I found that I was taking too much material
off (for my comfort) and decided to ask for a replacement part.
They were very good about it.
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 - # 40643
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James H Nelson
Sent: September-22-07 1:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: Filliform looks like?
I have just pulled out my wing root fairings (p/n F999 ) and pulled the
blue skin from the underside of the fairing. It looks like there is some
form of "corrosion" that looks like a fuzzy worm that snakes around from
an edge. It is only on my wing root fairings and is covering the one
edge of the fairing where the factory holes are located. Both fairings
have this condition. If it is the "filliform" corrosion, can I
eliminate it from the part? if so, how is the best way? If it is left
as is, since this a nonstructural part, will it contaminate any other
parts such as my wing skins? Its one of those "got to know about this"
items.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Sender Wire Length |
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
The answer to this may be staring me in the face, but I can't figure it out.
-8A QB, so I haven't had the pleasure of a lot of fuel tank work. Also, since the
tank is closed, access is restricted. I'm trying to install Van's float- type
fuel senders, but can't figure out the wire dimensions. Plan 16A makes one
reference to the nearly horizontal segment as "Approximately 3 inches". However,
the scale view is drawn showing that segment over 4 inches. No reference at
all to the "vertical" segment length.
Can anyone help by both giving me the dimensions you used - and pointing out how
you determined them? Is there a missing directions page that I may have filed
away so securely 2+ years ago that it's missing?
I checked the archives with more confusion than success - some folks were talking
about different left and right tank dimensions. Where did that come form?
Paul Valovich
N192NM Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Sender Wire Length |
I have to admit I am not sure how you would do this very accurately in a
closed tank. I presume the quick built tanks come with no senders
installed. Maybe another quick build kit builder will respond with
something more sensible but is it possible to take your senders to another
builder with an open set of tanks to get those cut, bent, and fitted for
maximum effectiveness? There probably still is some minor differences
between one tank and another, but you may be able to get pretty close.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul
> Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:50 AM
> To: Valovich, Paul; rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Sender Wire Length
>
>
> The answer to this may be staring me in the face, but I can't figure it
> out.
>
> -8A QB, so I haven't had the pleasure of a lot of fuel tank work. Also,
> since the tank is closed, access is restricted. I'm trying to install
> Van's float- type fuel senders, but can't figure out the wire dimensions.
> Plan 16A makes one reference to the nearly horizontal segment as
> "Approximately 3 inches". However, the scale view is drawn showing that
> segment over 4 inches. No reference at all to the "vertical" segment
> length.
>
> Can anyone help by both giving me the dimensions you used - and pointing
> out how you determined them? Is there a missing directions page that I may
> have filed away so securely 2+ years ago that it's missing?
>
> I checked the archives with more confusion than success - some folks were
> talking about different left and right tank dimensions. Where did that
> come form?
> Paul Valovich
> N192NM Reserved
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender Wire Length |
| From: | "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com> |
There's a separate drawing that you should have received with the senders (if you
bought them from Vans) w/ these dimensions.
It'd probably be best to contact Van's for a copy.
--------
RV-7A
N777TY (res)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=135903#135903
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jan <jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | FW: RV6 - Rear spar question |
Hi,
I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the
root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section -
So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put
each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets
on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to
push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head
on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib
will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal
head... ??
Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with
countersinking the rear spar
Any comments here greatly appreciated
Jan
RV6 ... building almost from scratch ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | FW: RV6 - Rear spar question |
Just don't rivet there until the ribs are in place. As you put in each rib,
rivet the rear spar to the next rib. Shop head inside, universal outside -
keeps it looking neat. I had no problem reaching the heads behind the flap
brace with a long set; just don't rivet the brace to the bottom skin until
the last so you can run the set between the skin and brace.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - finishing the canopy frame
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jan
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question
Hi,
I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the
root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section -
So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put
each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets
on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to
push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head
on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib
will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal
head... ??
Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with
countersinking the rear spar
Any comments here greatly appreciated
Jan
RV6 ... building almost from scratch ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question |
Jan,
I put the shop heads on the aft side of the spar (factory head forward,
inside the wing) for the rivets between the wing walk ribs. This made
it relatively easy to slide the wing walk ribs into place. The rib can
be tipped, twisted and flexed a bit in order to "slide" it into the end
of the wing.
Steve Allison
RV-6A - no stinkin' pop rivets in the wing skins :-)
jan wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the
> root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section -
> So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put
> each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets
> on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to
> push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head
> on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib
> will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal
> head... ??
>
> Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with
> countersinking the rear spar
>
> Any comments here greatly appreciated
>
> Jan
> RV6 ... building almost from scratch ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jan <jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | FW: RV6 - Rear spar question |
Thanks for that !
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Kelley
Sent: 23 September 2007 19:10
Subject: RE: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question
Just don't rivet there until the ribs are in place. As you put in each rib,
rivet the rear spar to the next rib. Shop head inside, universal outside -
keeps it looking neat. I had no problem reaching the heads behind the flap
brace with a long set; just don't rivet the brace to the bottom skin until
the last so you can run the set between the skin and brace.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - finishing the canopy frame
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jan
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question
Hi,
I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at the
root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section -
So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put
each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets
on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to
push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop head
on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib
will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal
head... ??
Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with
countersinking the rear spar
Any comments here greatly appreciated
Jan
RV6 ... building almost from scratch ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jan <jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | FW: RV6 - Rear spar question |
Thanks ..
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Sent: 23 September 2007 21:03
Subject: Re: RV-List: FW: RV6 - Rear spar question
Jan,
I put the shop heads on the aft side of the spar (factory head forward,
inside the wing) for the rivets between the wing walk ribs. This made
it relatively easy to slide the wing walk ribs into place. The rib can
be tipped, twisted and flexed a bit in order to "slide" it into the end
of the wing.
Steve Allison
RV-6A - no stinkin' pop rivets in the wing skins :-)
jan wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am just about to drill the final size holes for the rear spar (#30) at
the
> root end. I want to use solid rivets in the skin at the wink walk section
-
> So to enable me to remove the first 4 ribs. Rivet on the skin .. Then put
> each rib back in and rivet my way "back out" ... Should I use flush rivets
> on the leading edge of the rear spar in this region or will I be able to
> push the main ribs past the universal head ? I think if I set the shop
head
> on the leading edge side of the rear spar - The rear end of the main rib
> will not go past the shop head.... but they may just push over a universal
> head... ??
>
> Flush rivets will obviously not foul the main rib. But more work with
> countersinking the rear spar
>
> Any comments here greatly appreciated
>
> Jan
> RV6 ... building almost from scratch ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sender Wire Length |
Hi Paul,
Take a look at the outside end of the fuel tank in profile. The fuel sender
flange and gasket will eventually be installed mounted on the rear face of
the rear baffle of the tank.
For fine tuning;
If you take great care as to the sender's correct vertical height and it's
orientation as to left or right tank and clamp the sending unit onto the end
flange outside the tank end. You should be able to adjust the float
actuating wire length and shape to provide the correct movement of the
sender arm.
Be sure to check electrically with a meter or the gage itself. mark the gage
as to left or right for later installation.
I would use a piece of scrap material about the thickness of the gasket
clamped to the tank rear flange with the sender temporarily mounted to it
with a couple of screws or clecoes.
Careful measuring with correct positioning and alignment of the sender
mounting face with the rear tank baffle will be important.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 9:36 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Sender Wire Length
>
> I have to admit I am not sure how you would do this very accurately in a
> closed tank. I presume the quick built tanks come with no senders
> installed. Maybe another quick build kit builder will respond with
> something more sensible but is it possible to take your senders to another
> builder with an open set of tanks to get those cut, bent, and fitted for
> maximum effectiveness? There probably still is some minor differences
> between one tank and another, but you may be able to get pretty close.
>
> Tim
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul
>> Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:50 AM
>> To: Valovich, Paul; rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Sender Wire Length
>>
>>
>> The answer to this may be staring me in the face, but I can't figure it
>> out.
>>
>> -8A QB, so I haven't had the pleasure of a lot of fuel tank work. Also,
>> since the tank is closed, access is restricted. I'm trying to install
>> Van's float- type fuel senders, but can't figure out the wire dimensions.
>> Plan 16A makes one reference to the nearly horizontal segment as
>> "Approximately 3 inches". However, the scale view is drawn showing that
>> segment over 4 inches. No reference at all to the "vertical" segment
>> length.
>>
>> Can anyone help by both giving me the dimensions you used - and pointing
>> out how you determined them? Is there a missing directions page that I
>> may
>> have filed away so securely 2+ years ago that it's missing?
>>
>> I checked the archives with more confusion than success - some folks
>> were
>> talking about different left and right tank dimensions. Where did that
>> come form?
>> Paul Valovich
>> N192NM Reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Lightening holes in ribs |
Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need
to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
cutter to do the cutting job.
--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightening holes in ribs |
Scott wrote:
>
> Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need
> to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
> accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
> cutter to do the cutting job.
>
Scott, measure the diameters of the lightening holes and make a set of
round templates (cut out of poster board?) with a hole in the middle.
Center a template on the rib in a lightening hole recess, make a mark in
the center hole with a Sharpie, and crank up the fly cutter.
Be careful with the fly cutter, that thing can be deadly!
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Lightening holes in ribs |
Hi Scott,
You can copy the drawing for the ribs or order a new one from Vans. They
are only $3 or so for a full sized sheet. Cut it out and lay it in the rib
to mark the centers.
Just a silly suggestion:
DON'T get on a roll and cut lightening holes in ALL the ribs. The tank ribs
and ends of the tanks don't get "lightened". It's a hassle to fix them
after they have big holes in them, ask me how I know... And no, it wasn't
me, it was Van's themselves. I got one of the first set of wing kits that
came with the lightening holes done at the factory. Whoever they gave that
task to did them all... tank ribs and all!
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 3:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs
Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need
to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
cutter to do the cutting job.
--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightening holes in ribs |
I understand! I have experience with them...I used one to cut out all
the holes in my new instrument panel on my Corben. Good thing there
were only about 8 holes I had to make! :)
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
> Be careful with the fly cutter, that thing can be deadly!
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightening holes in ribs |
Ooh, now there's some advice I can really use!! Yes, I probably
would've done just that! I would have gotten the flycutter all set up
and done every hole that was that size in one fell swoop. Thanks for
saving me from having to send MORE money to Van...
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
David Burton wrote:
>
>Hi Scott,
>
>You can copy the drawing for the ribs or order a new one from Vans. They
>are only $3 or so for a full sized sheet. Cut it out and lay it in the rib
>to mark the centers.
>
>Just a silly suggestion:
>
>DON'T get on a roll and cut lightening holes in ALL the ribs. The tank ribs
>and ends of the tanks don't get "lightened". It's a hassle to fix them
>after they have big holes in them, ask me how I know... And no, it wasn't
>me, it was Van's themselves. I got one of the first set of wing kits that
>came with the lightening holes done at the factory. Whoever they gave that
>task to did them all... tank ribs and all!
>
>Dave
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
>Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 3:33 PM
>To: RV List; RV-4 List; RV-4(at)yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs
>
>
>Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need
>to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
>accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
>cutter to do the cutting job.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Lightening holes in ribs |
That's a great idea; I wish I'd thought of it. I carefully did the first
rib and then used the stock I'd just removed to mark all the rest of the
ribs. Even then, I'd clamp the rib in place and rotate the fly cutter by
hand to check where it was cutting. By the way, that removed stock is
useful for making small bits. Even the small holes yielded clamping pads,
bolt washers (for when I was bolting the longerons to the jig), and shims.
Waste nothing!
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - working on canopy frame
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs
Scott wrote:
>
> Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need
> to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
> accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
> cutter to do the cutting job.
>
Scott, measure the diameters of the lightening holes and make a set of
round templates (cut out of poster board?) with a hole in the middle.
Center a template on the rib in a lightening hole recess, make a mark in
the center hole with a Sharpie, and crank up the fly cutter.
Be careful with the fly cutter, that thing can be deadly!
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightening holes in ribs |
That's a good idea as well (big fender washers!!)! Guess I better buy a
metal "trash" bin to throw all the various bits of leftovers into.
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Patrick Kelley wrote:
>
>That's a great idea; I wish I'd thought of it. I carefully did the first
>rib and then used the stock I'd just removed to mark all the rest of the
>ribs. Even then, I'd clamp the rib in place and rotate the fly cutter by
>hand to check where it was cutting. By the way, that removed stock is
>useful for making small bits. Even the small holes yielded clamping pads,
>bolt washers (for when I was bolting the longerons to the jig), and shims.
>Waste nothing!
>
>Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - working on canopy frame
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
>Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 4:57 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs
>
>
>Scott wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need
>>to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
>>accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
>>cutter to do the cutting job.
>>
>>
>>
>
>Scott, measure the diameters of the lightening holes and make a set of
>round templates (cut out of poster board?) with a hole in the middle.
>Center a template on the rib in a lightening hole recess, make a mark in
>the center hole with a Sharpie, and crank up the fly cutter.
>
>Be careful with the fly cutter, that thing can be deadly!
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightening holes in ribs |
Scott wrote:
>
> That's a good idea as well (big fender washers!!)! Guess I better buy a
> metal "trash" bin to throw all the various bits of leftovers into.
By all means save all your cutoffs and scraps; you will be fabbing all
sorts of brackets, spacers, etc. I still have ten-year-old bits and
pieces of RV-6 in my scrap box and several of my subsequent projects
have RV-6 metal "flying" in them. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jan <jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Lightening holes in ribs |
I found it easy to just draw a couple of lines at 90 deg on the disk to cut
out - Got the centre with no problem that way... Did use a large compass to
draw a circle, just to make sure before getting the fly cutter out ...
I also made a small jig to clamp the rib in place during cutting ... and
watch you hands !!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Burton
Sent: 24 September 2007 02:29
Subject: RE: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs
Hi Scott,
You can copy the drawing for the ribs or order a new one from Vans. They
are only $3 or so for a full sized sheet. Cut it out and lay it in the rib
to mark the centers.
Just a silly suggestion:
DON'T get on a roll and cut lightening holes in ALL the ribs. The tank ribs
and ends of the tanks don't get "lightened". It's a hassle to fix them
after they have big holes in them, ask me how I know... And no, it wasn't
me, it was Van's themselves. I got one of the first set of wing kits that
came with the lightening holes done at the factory. Whoever they gave that
task to did them all... tank ribs and all!
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 3:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs
Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes need
to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
cutter to do the cutting job.
--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <billdube(at)killacycle.com> |
| Subject: | Completely off-topic, but you will love it anyway |
I posted about A123 Systems batteries now being used in Cessna
business jets. Here is what we are doing on the drag strip with those
identical batteries. This was on the Speed Channel just yesterday:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3c8eLH8x_-Y
You can see what has been distracting me from building my RV-7. :-)
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS: Blue Mountain EFIS lite |
| From: | "Bob Gross" <rpgross(at)bellsouth.net> |
For sale, used Blue mountain EFIS LITE, Generation 2, about 4 years old,
flight time 200 hours, works fine wih latest firmware, USA database,
moving map, HSI, PFD, G meter etc. Includes OAT sensor, GPS antenna. No
marks or scratches on bezel, looks very nice.
New was $3200, asking $1500.
Thanks for reading!
Bob
--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> |
Robin,
I found a place in Augusta that does powder coating and took them over
today. Did you powder coat the tubing also, or paint over Vans grey powder
coat?
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Pedals
Carl,
I chose to powder coat my RV-10 pedals (they look more like
chrome in person). I have zero idea how long my pedals will stay in this
condition. My white painted RV-6A pedals don't look bad after 375 hours.
Attached are my RV-10 pedals.
Robin ndition10 pedals an from HumidTech
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Carl,
I would send this reply via email vs. the list but I
don't have your email.
Not sure what you are asking, nothing on my -10 has been
painted to date. I powder coated all the items you see on the pedal
assembly plus I powder coated my steps and the center windshield tube in
chrome. While I was at it I PC'd my interior door handles and a custom
"dish" in which my fuel valve resides.
I expect to make 2-3 more trips to the powder coater for
the balance of the build.
Robin
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 2:16 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Pedals
Robin,
I found a place in Augusta that does powder coating and took them over
today. Did you powder coat the tubing also, or paint over Vans grey
powder coat?
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Pedals
Carl,
I chose to powder coat my RV-10 pedals (they look more like
chrome in person). I have zero idea how long my pedals will stay in this
condition. My white painted RV-6A pedals don't look bad after 375 hours.
Attached are my RV-10 pedals.
Robin ndition10 pedals an from HumidTech
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Completely off-topic, but you will love it anyway |
Bill,
The following is quoted from a special technology section in today's Wall
Street Journal about their annual awards for innovation. Would this be a
potential competitor to the batteries you are using?
"ENERGY
Co-winner Firefly Energy Inc., Peoria, Ill., developed a power supply that
replaces the heavy lead plates in typical vehicle batteries with a
carbon-graphite foam.
The result is smaller and lighter -- yet can deliver as much power as more
advanced and more costly technologies. Though its batteries aren't yet on
the market, Firefly has signed a deal with Sweden's Husqvarna Group to
provide batteries for the outdoor-equipment maker's planned line of electric
lawn mowers and lawn tractors. And in March Firefly received $5 million from
the U.S. Army to develop a prototype for possible use in combat vehicles."
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Dube
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 11:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Completely off-topic, but you will love it anyway
I posted about A123 Systems batteries now being used in Cessna
business jets. Here is what we are doing on the drag strip with those
identical batteries. This was on the Speed Channel just yesterday:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3c8eLH8x_-Y
You can see what has been distracting me from building my RV-7. :-)
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lapsley R & Sandra E Caldwell <lrsecaldwell(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Throttle controle available |
I have a 48 " long, 3 " throw vernier throttle control cable ( 1760).
It's yours for $35.00.
Roger Caldwell: lrsecaldwell(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Lightning holes in ribs |
| From: | "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Beg, borrow, rent or otherwise obtain some chassis punches or conduit
punches to do the holes. Edge lipping the punched holes helps in the
rigidity (over just a plain cut hole). The Fly cutter will hurt you,
especially doing hundreds of holes. I did a wing set via the punch and
a battery drill on slow to operate the punch. All done in one evening I
recall, and the edge lipping of the hole worked out....
.......................................................................
.....
Patrick Kelley wrote:
>
>That's a great idea; I wish I'd thought of it. I carefully did the
first
>rib and then used the stock I'd just removed to mark all the rest of
the
>ribs. Even then, I'd clamp the rib in place and rotate the fly cutter
by
>hand to check where it was cutting. By the way, that removed stock is
>useful for making small bits. Even the small holes yielded clamping
pads,
>bolt washers (for when I was bolting the longerons to the jig), and
shims.
>Waste nothing!
>
>Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - working on canopy frame
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
>Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 4:57 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightening holes in ribs
>
>
>Scott wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Bought an OLD wing kit for my RV-4 recently. The lightening holes
need
>>to be cut out on the ribs. Does anybody have a pet method for
>>accurately finding the center of the cutout...I will be using a fly
>>cutter to do the cutting job.
>>
>>
>>
>
>Scott, measure the diameters of the lightening holes and make a set of
>round templates (cut out of poster board?) with a hole in the middle.
>Center a template on the rib in a lightening hole recess, make a mark
in
>the center hole with a Sharpie, and crank up the fly cutter.
>
>Be careful with the fly cutter, that thing can be deadly!
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters |
Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon, but done right
it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers carefully and drill (not with
the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs undersize and ream to 1/4" if you have a
reamer. Fit the fly cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin NOT a drill bit. Grind the
cutter blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at its outer edge. Use only about a
7 degree clearance angle.
Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and drill about
15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few drops of oil in the
hole will help. This will give a firm outboard pilot for fly-cutting. Now mount
up your fly cutter and float the SMOOTH pilot pin into the rib hole and into
the board. Clamp the rib to the board and only now start the drill press.
Use rather slow speed, but you may feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A
touch of oil will help but is not always needed. This makes fly cuttin a piece
of cake!
Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters |
You know, I never had a problem with my fly cutter, and I was a lot
less cautious than this. I normally run it on the slowest setting on
my drill press, but I even used it with a variable-speed hand drill.
With the hand drill, I was still careful and I went slowly.
When using a hand drill, you can feel when something isn't going
right and can adjust accordingly.
So, I'm not sure what the dangers are, as long as you respect the
tool. Did I just get lucky?
-Joe
On Sep 25, 2007, at 2:08 PM, PSPRV6A(at)aol.com wrote:
> Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon,
> but done right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers
> carefully and drill (not with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs
> undersize and ream to 1/4" if you have a reamer. Fit the fly
> cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin NOT a drill bit. Grind the cutter
> blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at its outer edge. Use only
> about a 7 degree clearance angle.
> Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and
> drill about 15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few
> drops of oil in the hole will help. This will give a firm outboard
> pilot for fly-cutting. Now mount up your fly cutter and float the
> SMOOTH pilot pin into the rib hole and into the board. Clamp the
> rib to the board and only now start the drill press. Use rather
> slow speed, but you may feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A
> touch of oil will help but is not always needed. This makes fly
> cuttin a piece of
> cake!
> Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
>
> Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jan <jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters |
You definitely got lucky ... A hand drill and a fly cutter does not go
together ..
Or maybe you are just shit hot with a fly cutter :-) ... I would go with the
method described below ... Its very similar to what I did when I did my RV6
spar and all my ribs... (not the tank ribs)
Photo show my cutter (the disk is removed) ...Slow speed and a back stop
for the rib / spar
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Larson
Sent: 25 September 2007 21:40
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters
You know, I never had a problem with my fly cutter, and I was a lot
less cautious than this. I normally run it on the slowest setting on
my drill press, but I even used it with a variable-speed hand drill.
With the hand drill, I was still careful and I went slowly.
When using a hand drill, you can feel when something isn't going
right and can adjust accordingly.
So, I'm not sure what the dangers are, as long as you respect the
tool. Did I just get lucky?
-Joe
On Sep 25, 2007, at 2:08 PM, PSPRV6A(at)aol.com wrote:
> Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon,
> but done right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers
> carefully and drill (not with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs
> undersize and ream to 1/4" if you have a reamer. Fit the fly
> cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin NOT a drill bit. Grind the cutter
> blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at its outer edge. Use only
> about a 7 degree clearance angle.
> Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and
> drill about 15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few
> drops of oil in the hole will help. This will give a firm outboard
> pilot for fly-cutting. Now mount up your fly cutter and float the
> SMOOTH pilot pin into the rib hole and into the board. Clamp the
> rib to the board and only now start the drill press. Use rather
> slow speed, but you may feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A
> touch of oil will help but is not always needed. This makes fly
> cuttin a piece of
> cake!
> Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
>
> Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jan <jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters |
A fast way to clean up the holes after cutting out the disk ...
Jan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Larson
Sent: 25 September 2007 21:40
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters
You know, I never had a problem with my fly cutter, and I was a lot
less cautious than this. I normally run it on the slowest setting on
my drill press, but I even used it with a variable-speed hand drill.
With the hand drill, I was still careful and I went slowly.
When using a hand drill, you can feel when something isn't going
right and can adjust accordingly.
So, I'm not sure what the dangers are, as long as you respect the
tool. Did I just get lucky?
-Joe
On Sep 25, 2007, at 2:08 PM, PSPRV6A(at)aol.com wrote:
> Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon,
> but done right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers
> carefully and drill (not with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs
> undersize and ream to 1/4" if you have a reamer. Fit the fly
> cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin NOT a drill bit. Grind the cutter
> blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at its outer edge. Use only
> about a 7 degree clearance angle.
> Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and
> drill about 15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few
> drops of oil in the hole will help. This will give a firm outboard
> pilot for fly-cutting. Now mount up your fly cutter and float the
> SMOOTH pilot pin into the rib hole and into the board. Clamp the
> rib to the board and only now start the drill press. Use rather
> slow speed, but you may feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A
> touch of oil will help but is not always needed. This makes fly
> cuttin a piece of
> cake!
> Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
>
> Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters |
I find that a fly cutter can be safely used in an electric drill motor, IF
used carefully and IF you set the clutch to slip if it snags. I would be
very hesitant to try it with a big drill motor (lots of power) and no
clutch.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Larson
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters
You know, I never had a problem with my fly cutter, and I was a lot
less cautious than this. I normally run it on the slowest setting on
my drill press, but I even used it with a variable-speed hand drill.
With the hand drill, I was still careful and I went slowly.
When using a hand drill, you can feel when something isn't going
right and can adjust accordingly.
So, I'm not sure what the dangers are, as long as you respect the
tool. Did I just get lucky?
-Joe
On Sep 25, 2007, at 2:08 PM, PSPRV6A(at)aol.com wrote:
> Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon,
> but done right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers
> carefully and drill (not with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs
> undersize and ream to 1/4" if you have a reamer. Fit the fly
> cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin NOT a drill bit. Grind the cutter
> blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at its outer edge. Use only
> about a 7 degree clearance angle.
> Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and
> drill about 15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few
> drops of oil in the hole will help. This will give a firm outboard
> pilot for fly-cutting. Now mount up your fly cutter and float the
> SMOOTH pilot pin into the rib hole and into the board. Clamp the
> rib to the board and only now start the drill press. Use rather
> slow speed, but you may feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A
> touch of oil will help but is not always needed. This makes fly
> cuttin a piece of
> cake!
> Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
>
> Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
The following posted for the benefit of builders who have yet to use a
fly cutter:
Like all power tools, the fly cutter has the potential for being
extremely dangerous. What makes it particularly hazardous to RV builders
is that the project may be the first time a fly cutter has been
encountered by the builder. True, common sense will dramatically reduce
the odds of an accident, but when a fly cutter and the material being
cut gets loose, the results can be catastrophic.
Somewhere on the web a few years ago a photo circulated of a mangled
hand that had a most unfortunate encounter with a fly cutter. The points
presented in Paul's post below are certainly valid and detail a great
way to tame the fly cutter.
In my experience the two most common errors in using the fly cutter are
failing to TIGHTLY clamp the piece to the drill press table with a wood
backing and failure to use a SHARP fly cutter. If the cutter gets dull,
it WILL snag in the cut, hopefully stalling the drill press, but if the
work isn't tightly clamped, and the drill doesn't stall, the whole deal
becomes a whirling guillotine.
Another hazard is failing to stay clear of the cutter. Depending on the
speed of the drill press, the cutter bar can be nearly impossible to see
and dangling clothing or careless fingers can instantly be pulled into a
really bad situation.
Yep, a fly cutter can be used with a hand drill.....I've done it when
needing to add a hole to a panel in an assembled plane (didn't enjoy the
process, however), but this only increases the possibility of having an
accident. It is easy to let the cutter get less than perpendicular to
the work and then there are problems (see above).
So, be careful, work slowly, keep the work securely clamped and the
cutter sharp, and all should go well. Violate any of these guidelines,
and your building progress may be uninterrupted while you learn to use
fewer fingers.
Let's be careful. :-)
Sam Buchanan
=======================
Joseph Larson wrote:
>
> You know, I never had a problem with my fly cutter, and I was a lot less
> cautious than this. I normally run it on the slowest setting on my
> drill press, but I even used it with a variable-speed hand drill. With
> the hand drill, I was still careful and I went slowly.
>
> When using a hand drill, you can feel when something isn't going right
> and can adjust accordingly.
>
> So, I'm not sure what the dangers are, as long as you respect the tool.
> Did I just get lucky?
>
> -Joe
>
> On Sep 25, 2007, at 2:08 PM, PSPRV6A(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>> Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon, but
>> done right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers carefully and
>> drill (not with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs undersize and
>> ream to 1/4" if you have a reamer. Fit the fly cutter with a 1/4"
>> SMOOTH pin NOT a drill bit. Grind the cutter blade to a narrow cut,
>> about .050 at its outer edge. Use only about a 7 degree clearance angle.
>> Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and drill
>> about 15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few drops of
>> oil in the hole will help. This will give a firm outboard pilot for
>> fly-cutting. Now mount up your fly cutter and float the SMOOTH pilot
>> pin into the rib hole and into the board. Clamp the rib to the board
>> and only now start the drill press. Use rather slow speed, but you
>> may feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A touch of oil will help
>> but is not always needed. This makes fly cuttin a piece of
>> cake!
>> Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
>>
>> Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Lightning holes in ribs |
>Beg, borrow, rent or otherwise obtain some chassis punches or conduit
>punches to do the holes.
I did my smaller holes this way. I didn't have large enough punches to do
them all. The rib material is thin enough that it goes pretty quickly with
a fly cutter. On a Van's kit the ribs have pressed in raised rings that you
leave in place when you cut the lightening holes out leaving you a nice
reinforcing flange. I also used a punch to do my conduit holes. That made
short work of those and it leaves a great hole without a burr.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters |
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 09/24/07 Fly cutters
Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon, but
done
right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers carefully and drill
(not
with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs undersize and ream to 1/4" if
you
have a reamer. Fit the fly cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin NOT a drill
bit.
Grind the cutter blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at its outer edge.
Use
only about a 7 degree clearance angle.
Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
Better yet is a flycutter with a 3/8" integral pilot. Stanley makes
(made)
one. Works very well.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
My pedals are the aluminum part supplied by Van. I drilled a number of
holes (around one inch) to lighten the weight and then buffed the aluminum with
Scotch Bright. The buffed aluminum looks beautiful, even after 250 hours.
Not a mark on them. Paint, even powder coating, will scuff off. I also made
foot rests (fastened to the two outside vertical bars of the rudder) in the
same manner. You can see part of my brake pedals if you enlarge the panel
picture of my airplane at _www.petesrvaviationproducts.com_
(http://www.petesrvaviationproducts.com) .
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, SnF Reserve Grand Champion, Outstanding aircraft award
All electric panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Williams" <mr.gsun+rv-list(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Pedals |
Pete, Do you have any pics of your aluminum trays that keep the water from
your instruments?
Greg
RV-7 tipup all electric panel
On 9/25/07, PeterHunt1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> My pedals are the aluminum part supplied by Van. I drilled a number of
> holes (around one inch) to lighten the weight and then buffed the
> aluminum with Scotch Bright. The buffed aluminum looks beautiful, even
> after 250 hours. Not a mark on them. Paint, even powder coating,
> will scuff off. I also made foot rests (fastened to the two outside
> vertical bars of the rudder) in the same manner. You can see part of my
> brake pedals if you enlarge the panel picture of my airplane at
> www.petesrvaviationproducts.com.
>
> Pete in Clearwater
> RV-6, SnF Reserve Grand Champion, Outstanding aircraft award
> All electric panel
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Se69" target="_blank">Make AOL Your Homepage.
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
General information, do not raise the fly cutter after you have cut through
the aluminum with your drill or drill press still running. You will have a
flying disc heading for a perfectly good fuselage, VS or other airplane
parts, including the pilot. I had a disc hit the VS and fortunately I did
not have damage, thank you lord.
Jim
RV9a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 4:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fly cutters
>
> The following posted for the benefit of builders who have yet to use a fly
> cutter:
>
> Like all power tools, the fly cutter has the potential for being extremely
> dangerous. What makes it particularly hazardous to RV builders is that the
> project may be the first time a fly cutter has been encountered by the
> builder. True, common sense will dramatically reduce the odds of an
> accident, but when a fly cutter and the material being cut gets loose, the
> results can be catastrophic.
>
> Somewhere on the web a few years ago a photo circulated of a mangled hand
> that had a most unfortunate encounter with a fly cutter. The points
> presented in Paul's post below are certainly valid and detail a great way
> to tame the fly cutter.
>
> In my experience the two most common errors in using the fly cutter are
> failing to TIGHTLY clamp the piece to the drill press table with a wood
> backing and failure to use a SHARP fly cutter. If the cutter gets dull, it
> WILL snag in the cut, hopefully stalling the drill press, but if the work
> isn't tightly clamped, and the drill doesn't stall, the whole deal becomes
> a whirling guillotine.
>
> Another hazard is failing to stay clear of the cutter. Depending on the
> speed of the drill press, the cutter bar can be nearly impossible to see
> and dangling clothing or careless fingers can instantly be pulled into a
> really bad situation.
>
> Yep, a fly cutter can be used with a hand drill.....I've done it when
> needing to add a hole to a panel in an assembled plane (didn't enjoy the
> process, however), but this only increases the possibility of having an
> accident. It is easy to let the cutter get less than perpendicular to the
> work and then there are problems (see above).
>
> So, be careful, work slowly, keep the work securely clamped and the cutter
> sharp, and all should go well. Violate any of these guidelines, and your
> building progress may be uninterrupted while you learn to use fewer
> fingers.
>
> Let's be careful. :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
> =======================
>
> Joseph Larson wrote:
>>
>> You know, I never had a problem with my fly cutter, and I was a lot less
>> cautious than this. I normally run it on the slowest setting on my drill
>> press, but I even used it with a variable-speed hand drill. With the
>> hand drill, I was still careful and I went slowly.
>>
>> When using a hand drill, you can feel when something isn't going right
>> and can adjust accordingly.
>>
>> So, I'm not sure what the dangers are, as long as you respect the tool.
>> Did I just get lucky?
>>
>> -Joe
>>
>> On Sep 25, 2007, at 2:08 PM, PSPRV6A(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> Fly cutter hints: Yes, The fly cutter can be a loose cannon, but
>>> done right it can be tamed. First, mark all the centers carefully and
>>> drill (not with the fly cutter) 1/4". Drill the ribs undersize and ream
>>> to 1/4" if you have a reamer. Fit the fly cutter with a 1/4" SMOOTH pin
>>> NOT a drill bit. Grind the cutter blade to a narrow cut, about .050 at
>>> its outer edge. Use only about a 7 degree clearance angle.
>>> Set up a sturdy board clamped to your drill press table and drill
>>> about 15/64 and then "burn" to 1/4" with a smooth pin. A few drops of
>>> oil in the hole will help. This will give a firm outboard pilot for
>>> fly-cutting. Now mount up your fly cutter and float the SMOOTH pilot
>>> pin into the rib hole and into the board. Clamp the rib to the board
>>> and only now start the drill press. Use rather slow speed, but you may
>>> feed quite firmly until near breakthru. A touch of oil will help but is
>>> not always needed. This makes fly cuttin a piece of cake!
>>> Good luck,. Paul S. Petersen
>>>
>>> Minnetonka MN RV6A nearly complete with son Eric
>
>
> --
> 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007 8:02 AM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Wing mounting bolt direction |
I cannot find an instruction on the direction
for the
main wing attach bolts in the center section.Does the nut go to the front
or back? Or does it matter?
RV-8 QB
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing mounting bolt direction |
Good practice puts the bolt front to back with nut on aft side. But, if
ability to properly torque the nut is not possible, do what works best.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Inman 204 287 8334" <ghinman(at)mts.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 4:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing mounting bolt direction
>
>
> I cannot find an instruction on the direction for
> the
> main wing attach bolts in the center section.Does the nut go to the front
> or back? Or does it matter?
> RV-8 QB
>
> --
>
> George H. Inman
> ghinman(at)mts.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Wing mounting bolt direction |
On my 8A, I don't believe it is even possible to put the bolts in from the
front.
Terry
RV-8A
Seattle
Wiring
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Inman 204
287 8334
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 1:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing mounting bolt direction
I cannot find an instruction on the direction
for the
main wing attach bolts in the center section.Does the nut go to the front
or back? Or does it matter?
RV-8 QB
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
Greg,
No, I don't have any pictures of the trays over my instruments, but I'll
take a few and post them. I have a special tip-up front gasket (see
_www.petesrvaviationproducts.com_ (http://www.petesrvaviationproducts.com/) ) which
stops the water from entering when the canopy is closed. The problem is keeping
water off the instruments when I open a wet canopy and some water cascades
down and then rearward (tail-dragger). That small amount of water I catch in
three long, narrow (2.5") trays mounted against the rear side of the firewall
and over the forward half of the gauges. I learned after losing my
transponder to rain a year ago that Van's tip-up front gasket and design gives
limited water protection. That got me thinking about a better solution to keeping
water out of a tip-up canopy.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6 250 hours, all electric panel
Greg wrote:
"Pete, Do you have any pics of your aluminum trays that keep the water from
your instruments?
Greg
RV-7 tipup all electric panel"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Linebaugh" <jefflinebaugh(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | The Memphis 100 Air Race |
The Memphis 100 is coming! Come join us for the fun!
When: October 27th
Where: DeWitt Spain Airport (M01), Memphis, TN
What: The Memphis 100 is an Official Sport Air Racing League sanctioned
eventIt is for ALL aircraft, from Cubs to Unlimiteds, run on a 100 mile
triangular course, with staggered starts. No formation experience required!
Racers are split into categories for fair, friendly competition. Come run
hard, or enjoy the scenery and camaraderie!
Who: You! Hosted by the Memphis CAF. Breakfast by the Memphis EAA.
For more information or registration contact:
Rick Pellicciotti: rick@rocket-boys.com 901
481-1934
Jeff Linebaugh: jeff@rocket-boys.com 901
606-6735
Hope to see you all there!
Jeff Linebaugh
jefflinebaugh(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Harrison" <jharrison46(at)gmail.com> |
For sale: RV9 tail kit with electric trim due to health reasons. I am
located in a western suburb of Chicago. I can't pack it so someone will have
to be in driving distance. I also bought the Cleaveland tool kit for RV's
including a pneumatic squeezer. The tools are barely used. $1200 for the
tail kit and $2000 for tools. More info: jharrison46atgmaildotcom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound |
I'm just about to the point of putting on the front deck of my 7A and
thought it would be easier to put some insulation on the aft face of
the firewall now. There are several types advertised -- I was
looking for ease of application and good performance in reducing heat
and sound from the engine. Does anyone out there have a favorite
type??? Do you feel that it is worth the effort to insulate the
firewall?
I'd appreciate your comments
dave
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tailgummer(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound |
Dave, I recently installed the aluminized heat barrier by Thermotec (Spruce
p/n 08-00600 for the 12X24 in size) on the aft side of my 8 firewall and had
a DRAMATIC drop in heat in the fwd baggage hold. Its 1/16 thick and is
comprised of woven ceramic cloth similar to fiberglass with an adhesive back. Added
weight is negligible. It does not reduce sound much, if at all. I have ANR
headsets which reduces the sound level to manageable levels.
John D RV8 N585JD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound |
Dave,
I used a foam from Wick's:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=7836~subid=
1925/index.html
It's available in several thicknesses (I used 1/2 inch on the aft side
of the firewall) and I found it easy to apply with a spray adhesive (3M
as I recall) available from the "aviation aisle" at Home Depot. I have
nothing to compare it to but have been pleased with it's insulating
value for both for sound and heat.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV8, N842S, 90 Hrs,
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Cudney
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 7:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound
I'm just about to the point of putting on the front deck of my 7A and
thought it would be easier to put some insulation on the aft face of the
firewall now. There are several types advertised -- I was looking for
ease of application and good performance in reducing heat and sound from
the engine. Does anyone out there have a favorite type??? Do you feel
that it is worth the effort to insulate the firewall?
I'd appreciate your comments
dave
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound |
I used Super Soundproofing foam from spruce. I've had it in from day one
it seems to be working pretty good but I don't know what it would sound
like without it.
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Dave Cudney wrote:
> I'm just about to the point of putting on the front deck of my 7A and
> thought it would be easier to put some insulation on the aft face of
> the firewall now. There are several types advertised -- I was looking
> for ease of application and good performance in reducing heat and
> sound from the engine. Does anyone out there have a favorite type???
> Do you feel that it is worth the effort to insulate the firewall?
>
> I'd appreciate your comments
>
> dave
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound |
Dave,
I'm not sure what others are using but I am planning to use the insulation
from Abby at Flightline Interiors.
http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/products/construction/default.asp
Firewall Insulation Fabric
- Blocks up to 97% of radiated heat
- Effective conductive heat barrier
- Effective moisture barrier
- Superior sound deflector
- Resistant to mold and mildew
- Easily installs in minutes
- Lightweight
Firewall Insulation (per yard, 48" wide) $22.00
Bret Smith
RV-9A (91314)
Mineral Bluff, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Cudney
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound
I'm just about to the point of putting on the front deck of my 7A and
thought it would be easier to put some insulation on the aft face of the
firewall now. There are several types advertised -- I was looking for ease
of application and good performance in reducing heat and sound from the
engine. Does anyone out there have a favorite type??? Do you feel that it is
worth the effort to insulate the firewall?
I'd appreciate your comments
dave
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Spprtypilot <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound |
I used some stuff from abby at flightline interiors , light and strong and now
is the time to do it , acs has some black stuff that I hear works good, great
article in kitplanes several months ago about heat & noise reduction.
Danny
-----Original Message-----
From: "Dave Cudney" <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: 9/27/07 7:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound
I'm just about to the point of putting on the front deck of my 7A and
thought it would be easier to put some insulation on the aft face of
the firewall now. There are several types advertised -- I was
looking for ease of application and good performance in reducing heat
and sound from the engine. Does anyone out there have a favorite
type??? Do you feel that it is worth the effort to insulate the
firewall?
I'd appreciate your comments
dave
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound |
Hi Dave,
In my 6A, I used sound insulation only in the floor. I have no
insulation on the backside of the firewall. With my sound cancelling
headset, the sound level at my ears is very confortable. There is also
no sign of excess heat in the cockpit. I've been flying for 2-1/2 years
in Central Florida. It is hot on the ground in the summer in or out of
the cockpit and it cools off when I climb above 1000 feet.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
Dave Cudney wrote:
> I'm just about to the point of putting on the front deck of my 7A and
> thought it would be easier to put some insulation on the aft face of
> the firewall now. There are several types advertised -- I was looking
> for ease of application and good performance in reducing heat and
> sound from the engine. Does anyone out there have a favorite type???
> Do you feel that it is worth the effort to insulate the firewall?
>
> I'd appreciate your comments
>
> dave
>
>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>>href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound |
Same stuff as JC Whitney...=0A=0ADarrell=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ---
-=0AFrom: Bret Smith <smithhb(at)tds.net>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent:
Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:32:16 PM=0ASubject: RE: RV-List: Re: Firewal
l insulation for heat and sound=0A=0A=0ADave,=0A =0AI'm not sure what other
s are using but I am planning to use the insulation from Abby at Flightline
Interiors. http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/products/construction/defau
lt.asp=0A =0A=0AFirewall Insulation Fabric =0A- Blocks up to 97% of radiate
d heat=0A- Effective conductive heat barrier=0A- Effective moisture barrier
=0A- Superior sound deflector=0A- Resistant to mold and mildew=0A- Easily i
nstalls in minutes=0A- Lightweight=0AFirewall Insulation (per yard, 48" wid
e) $22.00=0ABret Smith=0ARV-9A (91314)=0AMineral Bluff, GA=0Awww.FlightInno
vations.com=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0AFrom: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mai
lto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Cudney=0ASent: Th
ursday, September 27, 2007 8:04 PM=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: R
V-List: Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound=0A=0A=0AI'm just about t
o the point of putting on the front deck of my 7A and thought it would be e
asier to put some insulation on the aft face of the firewall now. There are
several types advertised -- I was looking for ease of application and good
performance in reducing heat and sound from the engine. Does anyone out th
ere have a favorite type??? Do you feel that it is worth the effort to insu
late the firewall? =0A=0A=0AI'd appreciate your comments=0A=0A=0Adave=0A=0A
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List=0Ahref="http://forums.matronic
s.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0Ahref="http://www.m
atronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
=0Ahref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0A=0A
=0A =0A______________________________________________________________
______________________=0AMoody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - th
o.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound |
In a message dated 9/27/2007 6:47:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net writes:
There is also no sign of excess heat in the cockpit. I've been flying for
2-1/2 years in Central Florida.
================================
How hot would it be if the engine caught on fire?
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 865hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound |
In a message dated 9/27/2007 5:07:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net writes:
Does anyone out there have a favorite type??? Do you feel that it is worth
the effort to insulate the firewall?
================================================
Definitely worth the effort IMO.
I used Soundcoat brand Soundfoam HT P/N FF30AHT7 in a 1" thickness. It's a
flame retardant polyimide foam (think Kapton but foamed) with a aluminized
mylar backing. It weighs 1oz/sqft so only 3/4 of a lb or so for the whole
firewall. I used aluminum tape to reconnect the various cutout shapes that fit
the firewall topography into a contiguous whole. It is expensive but probably
the best material for the job. I have an AutoCAD file of the 6/6A firewall
available.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 865hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
When selecting firewall insulation material, it might be assumed that
the manufacturer (amateur builder) looked at flame propagation time or
just dismissed the guideline published for certificated aircraft in the
AC. (Which is often a great "jumping off" point in decision making).
Firewall insulation, upholstery covers, carpeting and headliner are
often grouped with other "thermal attenuation" and "sound attenuation"
products. Some products can do both - they are not always the same.
Fire Suppression and flame spread were not listed other than in the
description.
Often the adhesive used invalidates the purpose for the product in the
first place.
The ability to remove it and locate corrosion years later should not be
dismissed without reasonable consideration. Too often in our quest for
completion we totally dismiss "fire annunciation" and "fire suppression"
objective of safe building.
I had a friend who recently crashed in Virginia, only to extract himself
after his canopy burned away adequately. He was in serious condition
afterwards.
Below is the NTSB report of Boriak's accident. I read in an aerobatics
newsletter that he was inverted after the accident and couldn't get out
until the canopy melted.
NTSB Identification: NYC07LA201
John Cox
RV-10 (40600)
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bret Smith
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 6:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound
Dave,
I'm not sure what others are using but I am planning to use the
insulation from Abby at Flightline Interiors.
http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/products/construction/default.asp
Firewall Insulation Fabric
- Blocks up to 97% of radiated heat
- Effective conductive heat barrier
- Effective moisture barrier
- Superior sound deflector
- Resistant to mold and mildew
- Easily installs in minutes
- Lightweight
Firewall Insulation (per yard, 48" wide) $22.00
Bret Smith
RV-9A (91314)
Mineral Bluff, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Cudney
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound
I'm just about to the point of putting on the front deck of my 7A and
thought it would be easier to put some insulation on the aft face of the
firewall now. There are several types advertised -- I was looking for
ease of application and good performance in reducing heat and sound from
the engine. Does anyone out there have a favorite type??? Do you feel
that it is worth the effort to insulate the firewall?
I'd appreciate your comments
dave
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
c
om/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall insulation for heat and sound |
Thanks for the comments I definitely will use some insulation,
although I'm still unclear as to which product to use.
Currently leaning towards the Flightline Interiors product.
dave
On Sep 27, 2007, at 5:03 PM, Dave Cudney wrote:
> I'm just about to the point of putting on the front deck of my 7A
> and thought it would be easier to put some insulation on the aft
> face of the firewall now. There are several types advertised -- I
> was looking for ease of application and good performance in
> reducing heat and sound from the engine. Does anyone out there
> have a favorite type??? Do you feel that it is worth the effort to
> insulate the firewall?
>
> I'd appreciate your comments
>
> dave
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Low Fuel Pressure |
With the boost pump off, my fuel pressure in flight normally stays around
the bottom of the green arc (Van's gauge). Yesterday I was flying 22 squared
and saw that my fuel pressure had dropped to 1 psi which is just a fraction
above the red line. The engine ran fine, but I got very concerned. I turned
the boost pump on which slowly boosted the pressure up to the bottom of the
green arc, but no higher. Normally with the boost pump on (such as on
takeoff) I can get the pressure up to 5 psi (top of the green arc). During landing,
with the power pulled back, the fuel pressure rose and behaved normally. I
am concerned that for a period my fuel pressure dropped almost to the red
line. Have any of you had a similar experience? (My mechanical fuel pump
diaphragm is not leaking and my fuel lines are plumbed as per Vans.)
Pete, in Clearwater
RV-6, 250 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure |
Hi Pete,
I have had similar experiences with Van's fuel pressure gauge though
never to 1 psi. I see variations from the bottom of the green arc to
middle of the green arc. There has never been any indication from the
engine of lack of fuel. The indications seem to be independent of power.
The boost pump will sometimes bring the indication to mid green when it
is at the bottom of the green arc on engine driven pump alone. The
variations seem to occur randomly.
I have an O-320-D1A with about 130 hours on it since new.
Richard in Orlando
RV-6A
PeterHunt1(at)aol.com wrote:
> With the boost pump off, my fuel pressure in flight normally stays
> around the bottom of the green arc (Van's gauge). Yesterday I was
> flying 22 squared and saw that my fuel pressure had dropped to 1 psi
> which is just a fraction above the red line. The engine ran fine, but
> I got very concerned. I turned the boost pump on which slowly
> boosted the pressure up to the bottom of the green arc, but no
> higher. Normally with the boost pump on (such as on takeoff) I can
> get the pressure up to 5 psi (top of the green arc). During landing,
> with the power pulled back, the fuel pressure rose and behaved
> normally. I am concerned that for a period my fuel pressure dropped
> almost to the red line. Have any of you had a similar experience?
> (My mechanical fuel pump diaphragm is not leaking and my fuel lines
> are plumbed as per Vans.)
>
> Pete, in Clearwater
> RV-6, 250 hours
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> See w target="_blank">Make AOL Your Homepage.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure |
Tis normal in my RV. I biased my RMI engine monitor to add 1 psi
so it would not constantly blink. Otherwise it was often ZERO in flight
The engine has run fine for over 1200 hours this way.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
To: rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 12:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Low Fuel Pressure
With the boost pump off, my fuel pressure in flight normally stays
around the bottom of the green arc (Van's gauge). Yesterday I was
flying 22 squared and saw that my fuel pressure had dropped to 1 psi
which is just a fraction above the red line. The engine ran fine, but I
got very concerned. I turned the boost pump on which slowly boosted
the pressure up to the bottom of the green arc, but no higher. Normally
with the boost pump on (such as on takeoff) I can get the pressure up to
5 psi (top of the green arc). During landing, with the power pulled
back, the fuel pressure rose and behaved normally. I am concerned that
for a period my fuel pressure dropped almost to the red line. Have any
of you had a similar experience? (My mechanical fuel pump diaphragm is
not leaking and my fuel lines are plumbed as per Vans.)
Pete, in Clearwater
RV-6, 250 hours
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See w target="_blank">Make AOL Your Homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Thomasville, GA Fly-In Oct. 12, 13, 14 |
This a great fly-in if you can make it. There are normally several
hundred aircraft in attendance over the three days of the event.
Obviously Saturday is the better attendance day. Of all the fly-ins I
attend this one has been my favorite.
The dates are 10/12, 10/13, and 10/14
See www.thomasvilleflyin.com
Jerry Isler
Donalsonville, GA
RV4 N455J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure |
On 28 Sep 2007, at 14:46, PeterHunt1(at)aol.com wrote:
> With the boost pump off, my fuel pressure in flight normally stays
> around the bottom of the green arc (Van's gauge). Yesterday I was
> flying 22 squared and saw that my fuel pressure had dropped to 1
> psi which is just a fraction above the red line. The engine ran
> fine, but I got very concerned. I turned the boost pump on which
> slowly boosted the pressure up to the bottom of the green arc, but
> no higher. Normally with the boost pump on (such as on takeoff) I
> can get the pressure up to 5 psi (top of the green arc). During
> landing, with the power pulled back, the fuel pressure rose and
> behaved normally. I am concerned that for a period my fuel
> pressure dropped almost to the red line. Have any of you had a
> similar experience? (My mechanical fuel pump diaphragm is not
> leaking and my fuel lines are plumbed as per Vans.)
What was the altitude when you noticed the low fuel pressure, and how
long had it been since you climbed to that altitude? I've seen some
reports that suggest that some of the commonly used fuel pressure
senders are not very well vented, and it can take some time after you
climb for the pressure on the ambient side of its diaphragm to
actually decrease to the local ambient pressure. This causes the
pressure to read lower than the actual pressure.
--
Kevin Horton
RV-8 (Finishing Kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thomasville, GA Fly-In Oct. 12, 13, 14 |
I agree wholeheartedly with Jerry.
This is a great fly-in.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Isler
To: rvsoutheast-list(at)matronics.com ; rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 4:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Thomasville, GA Fly-In Oct. 12, 13, 14
This a great fly-in if you can make it. There are normally several
hundred aircraft in attendance over the three days of the event.
Obviously Saturday is the better attendance day. Of all the fly-ins I
attend this one has been my favorite.
The dates are 10/12, 10/13, and 10/14
See www.thomasvilleflyin.com
Jerry Isler
Donalsonville, GA
RV4 N455J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | AF-2500 Calibration |
I'm trying to calibrate the AF-2500 and have questions regarding the
Manifold Pressure and Amps process. It seems that two known data points
must be entered for each and I'm unsure how to do this. I appreciate any
suggestions from those experienced using the AF-2500. Thanks.
Have a great weekend,
Bill Gill
RV-7 (preparing for inspection)
Lee's Summit, MO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Is the Bell Tail Wheel still being produced? If so how does one get in
touch with Doug Bell Jr. to get one.
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AF-2500 Calibration |
My came with those setting already set, your should be also.
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
William Gill wrote:
>
> I'm trying to calibrate the AF-2500 and have questions regarding the
> Manifold Pressure and Amps process. It seems that two /known /data
> points must be entered for each and I'm unsure how to do this. I
> appreciate any suggestions from those experienced using the AF-2500.
> Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>
> Have a great weekend,
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Gill
>
> RV-7 (preparing for inspection)
>
> Lee's Summit, MO
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | AF-2500 Calibration |
Hello Bobby,
AFS said to set the first cal point for manifold pressure to the ambient
condition. Then, pull a KNOWN vacuum with corresponding baro pressure
for the second cal point. When I start the engine, my manifold pressure
reads "9" at idle. What data appears in your cal menu for the second
data point for manifold pressure?
I believe a similar process is necessary for the Amp sensor.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 7:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: AF-2500 Calibration
My came with those setting already set, your should be also.
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website:
http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
William Gill wrote:
I'm trying to calibrate the AF-2500 and have questions regarding the
Manifold Pressure and Amps process. It seems that two known data points
must be entered for each and I'm unsure how to do this. I appreciate any
suggestions from those experienced using the AF-2500. Thanks.
Have a great weekend,
Bill Gill
RV-7 (preparing for inspection)
Lee's Summit, MO
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
I went "shopping" at Sears yesterday to look at spray guns to use for
priming parts (did not buy one, but bought their 24" digital level with
laser -- on sale for $44!!). They had 2 regular guns and one HVLP gun.
My question: does this HVLP gun get used with my regular air compressor
or would I need to buy a special air supply system? I didn't see
anything at Sears that looked like anything other than standard air
compressors. If the HVLP cannot be used with my regular compressor, I
will get a regular gun. Is there anything special I should look for?
What other stuff will I need? I do have a small water separator on the
output of my compressor and no inline oilers of any kind. Never painted
with anything but a spray bomb from Wal Mart ;)
--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Nashville Airports |
I am posting this again because it never came through on the email list.
My wife and I are planning to fly to Nashville for our anniversary in a
couple of weeks. I see there are two airports besides the International
airport (BNA). John C. Tune (JWN) and Cornelia (M88). Could someone from
this area tell me which would be the most RV (RV related post) friendly
airport between these two? We will be in town for 4 days.
Any comments appreciated
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
An HVLP gun can be used with a regular compressor.
Here a couple of good links:
http://www.hotrodders.com/kb/body-exterior/articles/spraygun.html
http://toolsofthetrade.net/industry-news.asp?sectionID=1497&articleID=501284
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 4:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: HVLP Questions
I went "shopping" at Sears yesterday to look at spray guns to use for
priming parts (did not buy one, but bought their 24" digital level with
laser -- on sale for $44!!). They had 2 regular guns and one HVLP gun.
My question: does this HVLP gun get used with my regular air compressor or
would I need to buy a special air supply system? I didn't see anything at
Sears that looked like anything other than standard air compressors. If the
HVLP cannot be used with my regular compressor, I will get a regular gun.
Is there anything special I should look for?
What other stuff will I need? I do have a small water separator on the
output of my compressor and no inline oilers of any kind. Never painted
with anything but a spray bomb from Wal Mart ;)
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Questions |
Thanks...I'll check out the links!
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Bob Collins wrote:
>
>An HVLP gun can be used with a regular compressor.
>
>Here a couple of good links:
>
>http://www.hotrodders.com/kb/body-exterior/articles/spraygun.html
>
>http://toolsofthetrade.net/industry-news.asp?sectionID=1497&articleID=501284
>
>Bob Collins
>St. Paul, Minn.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
>Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 4:04 PM
>To: RV List; RV-4(at)yahoogroups.com; RV-4 List
>Subject: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
>I went "shopping" at Sears yesterday to look at spray guns to use for
>priming parts (did not buy one, but bought their 24" digital level with
>laser -- on sale for $44!!). They had 2 regular guns and one HVLP gun.
>My question: does this HVLP gun get used with my regular air compressor or
>would I need to buy a special air supply system? I didn't see anything at
>Sears that looked like anything other than standard air compressors. If the
>HVLP cannot be used with my regular compressor, I will get a regular gun.
>Is there anything special I should look for?
>What other stuff will I need? I do have a small water separator on the
>output of my compressor and no inline oilers of any kind. Never painted
>with anything but a spray bomb from Wal Mart ;)
>
>--
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
One more thread on VAF which may be of interest
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=7663
http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Paint.htm
http://www.minitruckinweb.com/tech/body/0706mt_spray_gun_basics/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
Thanks...I'll check out the links!
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Bob Collins wrote:
>
>An HVLP gun can be used with a regular compressor.
>
>Here a couple of good links:
>
>http://www.hotrodders.com/kb/body-exterior/articles/spraygun.html
>
>http://toolsofthetrade.net/industry-news.asp?sectionID=1497&articleID=5
>01284
>
>Bob Collins
>St. Paul, Minn.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
>Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 4:04 PM
>To: RV List; RV-4(at)yahoogroups.com; RV-4 List
>Subject: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
>I went "shopping" at Sears yesterday to look at spray guns to use for
>priming parts (did not buy one, but bought their 24" digital level with
>laser -- on sale for $44!!). They had 2 regular guns and one HVLP gun.
>My question: does this HVLP gun get used with my regular air
>compressor or would I need to buy a special air supply system? I
>didn't see anything at Sears that looked like anything other than
>standard air compressors. If the HVLP cannot be used with my regular
compressor, I will get a regular gun.
>Is there anything special I should look for?
>What other stuff will I need? I do have a small water separator on the
>output of my compressor and no inline oilers of any kind. Never
>painted with anything but a spray bomb from Wal Mart ;)
>
>--
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nashville Airports |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
I've flown into M88 a couple times. The service always seemed prompt and accomodating.
The provided a courtesy car and hunted down directions for where I needed
to go, though M88's location is a little tricky to drive to/from....then
again, its probably easier if a person follows directions.
Don't know much about JWN and BNA is the usual big airport with prices to match.
The FBOs at BNA are probably friendly---if you burn kerosene.
Chuck
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Nashville Airports
I am posting this again because it never came through on the email list.
My wife and I are planning to fly to Nashville for our anniversary in a
couple of weeks. I see there are two airports besides the International
airport (BNA). John C. Tune (JWN) and Cornelia (M88). Could someone from
this area tell me which would be the most RV (RV related post) friendly
airport between these two? We will be in town for 4 days.
Any comments appreciated
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cutter" <rcutter(at)cupower.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nashville Airports |
I do burn JP4 and go into BNA on a regular basis, but I also go to MQY,
Smyrna, quite a bit. They are very nice there and after checking the white
pages on VAF, I found other Rvers there, contacted some of them when I was
going to ROM and got a chance to visit with some, see their planes etc.
Murfreesboro isn't too far away and they seem real nice as well. I usually
just drop off and pick up there, but very friendly people. They kinda place
I will fly into when my -7 is done.
RVRC
Robert
RV7 - Fuselage in transit arrives this week.
KCUB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Nashville Airports
>
>
> I am posting this again because it never came through on the email list.
>
> My wife and I are planning to fly to Nashville for our anniversary in a
> couple of weeks. I see there are two airports besides the International
> airport (BNA). John C. Tune (JWN) and Cornelia (M88). Could someone from
> this area tell me which would be the most RV (RV related post) friendly
> airport between these two? We will be in town for 4 days.
>
> Any comments appreciated
> Tim
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Cutter" <rcutter(at)cupower.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nashville Airports |
Why don't I proof read or spell check?
RON - remain over night and
THE kinda place...
RC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Cutter" <rcutter(at)cupower.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 9:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Nashville Airports
>
>
> I do burn JP4 and go into BNA on a regular basis, but I also go to MQY,
> Smyrna, quite a bit. They are very nice there and after checking the
> white pages on VAF, I found other Rvers there, contacted some of them when
> I was going to ROM and got a chance to visit with some, see their planes
> etc.
>
> Murfreesboro isn't too far away and they seem real nice as well. I
> usually just drop off and pick up there, but very friendly people. They
> kinda place I will fly into when my -7 is done.
>
> RVRC
>
> Robert
> RV7 - Fuselage in transit arrives this week.
> KCUB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:12 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Nashville Airports
>
>
>>
>>
>> I am posting this again because it never came through on the email list.
>>
>> My wife and I are planning to fly to Nashville for our anniversary in a
>> couple of weeks. I see there are two airports besides the International
>> airport (BNA). John C. Tune (JWN) and Cornelia (M88). Could someone
>> from
>> this area tell me which would be the most RV (RV related post) friendly
>> airport between these two? We will be in town for 4 days.
>>
>> Any comments appreciated
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nashville Airports |
I think John C. Tune would be the would be the better choice between the
two.
M88 is an old small airport, harder to get to by car. JWN is a newer
bigger airport with easier access, both by plane and by car.
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> I am posting this again because it never came through on the email list.
>
> My wife and I are planning to fly to Nashville for our anniversary in a
> couple of weeks. I see there are two airports besides the International
> airport (BNA). John C. Tune (JWN) and Cornelia (M88). Could someone from
> this area tell me which would be the most RV (RV related post) friendly
> airport between these two? We will be in town for 4 days.
>
> Any comments appreciated
> Tim
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Questions |
Bob,
All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray, and
using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any brand. I
would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up
compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply Co.
near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot, Lowe's will
have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking for on the
compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage 18.1CFM
5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air tool that you
have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it down.
2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in the
world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is the
only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get it for
locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are quite a few
west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of stuff and great
price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before laying out the $ .
You'll get a better product for your bucks.
3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's club no
brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on sale.
Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with two, or to
do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
Hope that this all helped,
PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or
small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint. You
are right-no inline oiler.
Mike H 9A, 8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 6:52 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> One more thread on VAF which may be of interest
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=7663
>
> http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Paint.htm
>
> http://www.minitruckinweb.com/tech/body/0706mt_spray_gun_basics/
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
> Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 5:03 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
> Thanks...I'll check out the links!
>
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
>
>
> Bob Collins wrote:
>
>>
>>An HVLP gun can be used with a regular compressor.
>>
>>Here a couple of good links:
>>
>>http://www.hotrodders.com/kb/body-exterior/articles/spraygun.html
>>
>>http://toolsofthetrade.net/industry-news.asp?sectionID=1497&articleID=5
>>01284
>>
>>Bob Collins
>>St. Paul, Minn.
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
>>Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 4:04 PM
>>To: RV List; RV-4(at)yahoogroups.com; RV-4 List
>>Subject: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>>
>>
>>I went "shopping" at Sears yesterday to look at spray guns to use for
>>priming parts (did not buy one, but bought their 24" digital level with
>>laser -- on sale for $44!!). They had 2 regular guns and one HVLP gun.
>>My question: does this HVLP gun get used with my regular air
>>compressor or would I need to buy a special air supply system? I
>>didn't see anything at Sears that looked like anything other than
>>standard air compressors. If the HVLP cannot be used with my regular
> compressor, I will get a regular gun.
>>Is there anything special I should look for?
>>What other stuff will I need? I do have a small water separator on the
>>output of my compressor and no inline oilers of any kind. Never
>>painted with anything but a spray bomb from Wal Mart ;)
>>
>>--
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bell Tail Wheel |
dbell(at)manisteenational.com
Not sure if they are or not, but I love mine!!
Paul Besing
--- Steve Glasgow wrote:
>
>
> Is the Bell Tail Wheel still being produced? If so
> how does one get in
> touch with Doug Bell Jr. to get one.
>
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> N123SG RV-8
> Cappy's Toy
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bell Tail Wheel |
Best I can tell, they are still in business. Try this thread from VAF
_http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=5361_
(http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=5361)
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Fuselage
San Ramon, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Questions |
Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around...
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
mike humphrey wrote:
>
>
> Bob,
> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less,
> overspray, and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any
> brand. I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good
> stand up compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a
> Tractor Supply Co. near look there. If not any good discount place,
> home depot, Lowe's will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number
> that you are looking for on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR
> is 80 gallon single stage 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will
> also keep up with ANY air tool that you have, die grinder, cut off
> tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it down.
> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in
> the world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is
> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could
> get it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there
> are quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have
> tons of stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you
> drop before laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your
> bucks.
> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's
> club no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40
> when on sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both
> sides with two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
> Hope that this all helped,
> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or
> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint.
> You are right-no inline oiler.
> Mike H 9A, 8A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bell Tail Wheel |
Yes, the Bell Tail Wheel is still being made. Got mine several months ago
and love it. Here also is Doug's Dad's email address if Doug Jr. doesn't work
for you.
_bell1301(at)yahoo.com_ (mailto:bell1301(at)yahoo.com) Doug Bell Sr.
_dbell(at)manisteenational.com_ (mailto:dbell(at)manisteenational.com) Doug Bell
Jr.
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shelby Smith <rvaitor(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: Nashville Airports |
I'm based at John C. Tune JWN. Depending on what you are planning and
where you'll be either John C. Tune or Cornelia Fort would serve for
access to Nashville. JWN is in West Nashville and M88 is near
downtown on the east side. Driving directions are a little tricky
getting to M88.
Full service fuel is over $5 at JWN but they are in the process of
bringing online Self Serve fuel at Tune at approx $4.30 - not
officially open waiting for permit but I heard someone fuel up Sat.
Feel free to contact me directly for any other recommendations.
Shelby Smith
rvaitor(at)comcast.net
On Oct 1, 2007, at 1:57 AM, RV-List Digest Server wrote:
> From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Nashville Airports
>
>
> I am posting this again because it never came through on the email
> list.
>
> My wife and I are planning to fly to Nashville for our anniversary
> in a
> couple of weeks. I see there are two airports besides the
> International
> airport (BNA). John C. Tune (JWN) and Cornelia (M88). Could
> someone from
> this area tell me which would be the most RV (RV related post)
> friendly
> airport between these two? We will be in town for 4 days.
>
> Any comments appreciated
> Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bell tailwheel and Screaming Eagle tailwheel |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Guys,
Bell makes a fine tailwheel. No doubt about it. But so do I. IMHO, if
you have a Van's or Rocket taildragger you should have either a Bell or
a Screaming Eagle tailwheel installed. You will love the better
handling and the extra clearance that either will provide.
A Screaming Eagle tailwheel is a bit more streamlined and more closely
resembles the stock Van's type. Screaming Eagle tailwheels will accept
a wheel pant and still be able to full swivel if you're a total speed
freak.
A Screaming Eagle tailwheel fork is available to EASILY retrofit your
existing Van's fork. Literally a 5 minute swap.
I have tailwheels, tires, and replacement parts in stock all of the
time. I usually ship the following day.
Screaming Eagle tailwheels are guaranteed. If you don't like it, send it
back.
Please take a look at the website below as there is far too much info to
list here. For instance, I offer a durable, lightweight tailwheel tire
that is 6 oz lighter than the Van's tire. Also sealed bearing to
eliminate the mess on the rudder.
Thanks,
Vince Frazier
Screaming Eagle Graphics and Accessories, LLC
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
http://vincesrocket.com/products.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean Pichon <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
I tried to order a Bell Tailwheel a couple of months ago and recieved this
reply from Doug Bell:
Dean,Sorry for not replying sooner. I have actually been buried in painting
myRV8 and between work, that and family obligations I have fallen behind i
n afew areas. I was actully at a family reunion on Sat when you left me avo
icemail.Have you ever felt summers were too busy?Weel here is the tailwheel
fork status:At this time Dad is not accepting any new orders for his tail
wheel fork.At 80 yrs old he is worried that the current order list will out
live him.That sounds funny to type, but he is concerned and wants to make s
ure allthe people who are currently on order get their fork. At that time h
e willlook to take more orders.Dad was injured this winter and for several
months we were unable to produceforks and are therefore behind.I will keep
you email on file and contact you when Dad catches up, but thatis likely to
be at least a year out.Sorry for the situation and thanks for the inquiry.
We hope to catch up asfast as we can.He only sells the fork, not the seale
d bearing tailwheel itself.His cost started at $185 and has gone up about $
8 due to steel and shippingcosts....Let me know if saving your email will w
ork for you and I understand if itdoes not.Sincerely, Doug Bell, jr.RV-8Man
istee, MI
I decided to order a Screaming Eagle tailwheel and have been very happy wit
h the decision.
Regards,
Dean Pichon
RV-4
_________________________________________________________________
Explore the seven wonders of the world
BRE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bell Tail Wheel |
Scott wrote:
>
> Everyone seems to like them and they say they are available, but WHERE
> are they available from? Does Bell Tailwheels have a website?
No website, this is a small, retirement shop project of Mr. Bell's (age
80) that has gotten kinda out of hand. :-)
Messages posted earlier in this thread explain the Bell's situation and
provide email contacts. If you want a tailwheel soon, you're out of
luck. But if you can wait, you might still be able to get a Bell unit
sometime in the distant future by using the email addresses provided in
the earlier posts. Mr. Bell and his son are very nice folks who have
been sort of forced into tailwheel production once people discovered the
quality of the unit coming out of their shop.
I have a Bell on my RV-6 and it is a nice piece.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron leading edges |
Greetings listers.
I'm working on the ailerons for my -7A and have a slight issue with the
leading edge skins. As you probably know, the bottom portion of the leading
edge skin is flat and the top is curved. The problem is that the top isn't
curved enough. I have to pull the skin down about 1 1/2 or 2 inches to cleco
it to the aileron spar. This makes the bottom skin bulge out. Did anyone
else run into this? What did you do to fix it? I've thought about trying to
curl the top of the aileron leading edge skin some more, but not sure how to
do that.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Mike Cencula
RV-7A wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Brake caliper bleed fitting. |
Probably a dumb question but...getting ready to install brake calipers on
RV-6A. Cleveland installs the bleeder on the same side of both calipers but
Van's drawing shows the bleeder at the bottom of the installation.
So....I'm assuming that I need to reverse the bleeder and the fluid line
fittings on one of the Calipers? Yes/No? Thanks.
Dean RV-6A
Hope to fly soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Brake caliper bleed fitting. |
Yes, reverse the bleed fitting and the brake line fitting on one caliper
so that both bleed fittings are on the bottom.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DEAN
PSIROPOULOS
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brake caliper bleed fitting.
Probably a dumb question but...getting ready to install brake calipers
on
RV-6A. Cleveland installs the bleeder on the same side of both calipers
but
Van's drawing shows the bleeder at the bottom of the installation.
So....I'm assuming that I need to reverse the bleeder and the fluid line
fittings on one of the Calipers? Yes/No? Thanks.
Dean RV-6A
Hope to fly soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Questions |
Scott,
Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of any
HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of lacquer
thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of
lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup with
a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it air
dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will last
forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as day
one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most people
don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they fail.
Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast iron,
same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure
HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement.
Good luck,
Mike H 9A, 8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott" <acepilot(at)bloomer.net>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around...
>
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
>
>
> mike humphrey wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Bob,
>> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray,
>> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
>> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any brand.
>> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up
>> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply
>> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot, Lowe's
>> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking for
>> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage
>> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air tool
>> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it
>> down.
>> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in the
>> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
>> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is
>> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get
>> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are
>> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of
>> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before
>> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks.
>> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's club
>> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on
>> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with
>> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
>> Hope that this all helped,
>> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or
>> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint.
>> You are right-no inline oiler.
>> Mike H 9A, 8A
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nashville Airports |
| From: | Parker Thomas <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
Tim -
I flew into Nashville several years ago in my RV-8. Tune is a nice little
airport (I got my pilots license there), but I ruled it out because I
couldn't get a rental car there. If you can, it is great because it is
right near an interstate that can whisk you downtown or to tourist
attractions, etc. It is not very difficult to get to if you can read
interstate signs. I landed at BNA and used one of the FBO's. It worked
fine - no problems with tiedowns, fees weren't expensive, etc. They dropped
me at the rental car counter with no trouble. Smyrna is fine too, but it is
a little farther out than the other two.
Hope that helps. If you need any suggestions about where to go, contact me
off list. I grew up there.
Parker
____________________________________
F. Parker Thomas
me(at)parkerthomas.com
www.parkerthomas.com
Phone 510-393-9876
Fax 510-225-2358
>
> I am posting this again because it never came through on the email list.
>
> My wife and I are planning to fly to Nashville for our anniversary in a
> couple of weeks. I see there are two airports besides the International
> airport (BNA). John C. Tune (JWN) and Cornelia (M88). Could someone from
> this area tell me which would be the most RV (RV related post) friendly
> airport between these two? We will be in town for 4 days.
>
> Any comments appreciated
> Tim
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: AF-2500 Calibration |
The system is sent out calibrated so you should not have to do anything. Yo
can check it by setting your altimeter to zero feet and then seing if the
setting matches the manifold pressure.
We have our new forum up and running just for this type of question:
_http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/forum/_
(http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/forum/)
Sincerely,
Rob Hickman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry James" <larry(at)ncproto.com> |
| Subject: | alternate tailwheel - was Bell tailwheel |
I'm sure the Bell tailwheel and Vince's tailwheel (Screaming Eagle) are
good. In the interest of maintaining the archives; another source for a
very good tailwheel is the Aircraft Products product. The contact info is:
Aviation Products, Inc.
114 Bryant Street
Ojai, CA 93023
805-646-6042
I'm pretty sure they don't do computers but you can find pictures of them
through the archives on builders' sites.
I have one and like it as do a few of my friends flying RV's.
Larry E. James
Bellevue, WA
Super Decathlon
Rocket (under construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after every use.
Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also become brittle over
time and can shatter with a solid hit from something. If it's permanent, use
type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will last forever. It's also
rated for compressed air.
Michael Sausen
Rv-10
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
Scott,
Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of any
HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of lacquer
thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of
lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup with
a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it air
dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will last
forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as day
one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most people
don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they fail.
Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast iron,
same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure
HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement.
Good luck,
Mike H 9A, 8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott" <acepilot(at)bloomer.net>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
> Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around...
>
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
>
>
> mike humphrey wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Bob,
>> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray,
>> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
>> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any brand.
>> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up
>> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply
>> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot, Lowe's
>> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking for
>> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage
>> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air tool
>> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it
>> down.
>> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in the
>> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
>> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is
>> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get
>> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are
>> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of
>> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before
>> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks.
>> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's club
>> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on
>> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with
>> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
>> Hope that this all helped,
>> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or
>> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint.
>> You are right-no inline oiler.
>> Mike H 9A, 8A
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP Questions |
All good advice. I have no plans to plumb my shop with air though. I
just drag the air hose around to where I need it...
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after every use.
Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also become brittle over
time and can shatter with a solid hit from something. If it's permanent,
use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will last forever. It's also
rated for compressed air.
>
>Michael Sausen
>Rv-10
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
My last shop was plumbed with high pressure pvc pipe and I did have a blow
out. I was in the shop when it happened and it took a few years off my
life. Shrapnel was everywhere and damaged a couple of things but nothing
major. If anyone wants to plumb the shop I would recommend this product:
http://nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId=14
It is PVC and rated for compressed air. It isn't quite as cheap as regular
o'l pvc but still not bad and glues together the same. It is green and they
have great fittings for doing air. I used it and had T fittings pointing up
for each drop. Then they have a 180 degree short bend that allows you to go
from the T fitting down to your coupling. This is great because any water
in your pipe is not dropped to your fittings but rather continues down the
run to the end where you can place a separator.
Good stuff and much safer.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:40 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
>
> If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after
> every use. Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also
> become brittle over time and can shatter with a solid hit from something.
> If it's permanent, use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will
> last forever. It's also rated for compressed air.
>
> Michael Sausen
> Rv-10
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
>
> Scott,
> Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of any
> HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of
> lacquer
> thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of
> lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup
> with
> a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it air
> dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will last
> forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as
> day
> one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most people
> don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they fail.
> Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast
> iron,
> same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure
> HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement.
> Good luck,
> Mike H 9A, 8A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott" <acepilot(at)bloomer.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
> >
> > Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around...
> >
> > Scott
> > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
> >
> >
> >
> > mike humphrey wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Bob,
> >> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray,
> >> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
> >> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any
> brand.
> >> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up
> >> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply
> >> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot,
> Lowe's
> >> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking
> for
> >> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage
> >> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air
> tool
> >> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it
> >> down.
> >> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in
> the
> >> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
> >> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is
> >> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get
> >> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are
> >> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of
> >> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before
> >> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks.
> >> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's
> club
> >> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on
> >> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with
> >> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
> >> Hope that this all helped,
> >> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or
> >> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint.
> >> You are right-no inline oiler.
> >> Mike H 9A, 8A
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Just for clarification, this stuff looks to be ABS and not PVC.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 8:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
My last shop was plumbed with high pressure pvc pipe and I did have a blow
out. I was in the shop when it happened and it took a few years off my
life. Shrapnel was everywhere and damaged a couple of things but nothing
major. If anyone wants to plumb the shop I would recommend this product:
http://nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId=14
It is PVC and rated for compressed air. It isn't quite as cheap as regular
o'l pvc but still not bad and glues together the same. It is green and they
have great fittings for doing air. I used it and had T fittings pointing up
for each drop. Then they have a 180 degree short bend that allows you to go
from the T fitting down to your coupling. This is great because any water
in your pipe is not dropped to your fittings but rather continues down the
run to the end where you can place a separator.
Good stuff and much safer.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 7:40 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
>
> If you use PVC, I would make sure your compressor is shut off after
> every use. Good practice either way. PVC will work but it will also
> become brittle over time and can shatter with a solid hit from something.
> If it's permanent, use type L copper pipe. It's more expensive but will
> last forever. It's also rated for compressed air.
>
> Michael Sausen
> Rv-10
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 12:00 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
>
> Scott,
> Glad that I could help out. One thing that is Critical to the life of any
> HVLP gun is to clean it immediately after use. I buy 5 gal cans of
> lacquer
> thinner at a discount paint shop/auto body shop and run 3x 1/2 cups of
> lacquer thinner through it after each use. Thoroughly wipe out the cup
> with
> a clean paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner and the nozzle. Let it air
> dry before putting it away. If you maintain your equipment, it will last
> forever. I have one HVLP gun that is 3 years old and shoots as good as
> day
> one. The outside ain't so pretty but the guts are spotless. Most people
> don't take care of their guns properly and then cuss them when they fail.
> Also you can plumb your shop with HIGH pressure PVC pipe and not cast
> iron,
> same isle as the regular PVC water pipe, just look for High Pressure
> HOT/COLD on the PVC. Regular or High PVC cement.
> Good luck,
> Mike H 9A, 8A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott" <acepilot(at)bloomer.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HVLP Questions
>
>
> >
> > Sounds like good advice. I'll shop around...
> >
> > Scott
> > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
> >
> >
> >
> > mike humphrey wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Bob,
> >> All I use any more is HVLP. It's the BOMB! Less, way less, overspray,
> >> and using a lot less material-saves$$$$$.
> >> 1) any good single stage or 2 stage air compressor will work. Any
> brand.
> >> I would suggest that if you have space and $ invest in a good stand up
> >> compressor. Sears is ok but over priced. If you have a Tractor Supply
> >> Co. near look there. If not any good discount place, home depot,
> Lowe's
> >> will have 30-80 gallon size. CFM is the number that you are looking
> for
> >> on the compressor. Higher the better. My IR is 80 gallon single stage
> >> 18.1CFM 5HP - works like a mule. It will also keep up with ANY air
> tool
> >> that you have, die grinder, cut off tool, sanders, NOTHING can bog it
> >> down.
> >> 2) Invest in a good quality HVLP gun. It makes all the difference in
> the
> >> world. DeVilbiss is all that I use. AKZO epoxy primer, basecoat,
> >> clearcoat, will handle it all. Gravity fed(cup on top) or pot feed is
> >> the only way to go. Got mine on Ebay, new, half price what I could get
> >> it for locally. On Ebay search HVLP paint gun, Devilbiss, there are
> >> quite a few west coast reputable companies out there that have tons of
> >> stuff and great price. Like with anything - SHOP till you drop before
> >> laying out the $ . You'll get a better product for your bucks.
> >> 3). I picked up the digital level/laser also-mine was craftsman's
> club
> >> no brainer. check out there 3D laser level with stands for $40 when on
> >> sale. Very easy to stripe an a/c the entire length on both sides with
> >> two, or to do checkerboard on cowl/spinner/rudder.
> >> Hope that this all helped,
> >> PS - MUST have an inline water trap/filter with any compressor, big or
> >> small, compressed air makes water and will ruin your tools and paint.
> >> You are right-no inline oiler.
> >> Mike H 9A, 8A
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Harrison" <jharrison46(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | for sale: RV9 tail kit |
For sale: RV9 tail kit with electric trim. I am located in a western suburb
of Chicago. I can't pack it so someone will have to be in driving distance.
I also bought the Cleaveland tool kit for RV's including a pneumatic
squeezer. The tools are barely used. $1300 for the tail kit and $2100 for
tools. More info: jharrison46atgmaildotcom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> |
| Subject: | Top forward skin help. |
Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward top
skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it around
some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the rounded edge of
a table. It is just the last two inches that can't be realistically pulled
down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off the longeron between
rivets. Thx Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
Precurling the horizontal edge with an edge rolling tool helps quite
a bit on the 6. Don't see why it shouldn't on the 7.
Dick RV6A
At 04:37 PM 10/3/2007, you wrote:
>Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106
>(forward top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I
>pre-bend it around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend
>it over the rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches
>that can't be realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't
>want it lifting off the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge roller.
But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
Carl,
That is a tough edge to get to lay flat. I found standard clecos in
every rivet hole would still not pull it completely flat along the
longeron. There was still some puckering between the clecos. Wing nut
clecos did pull it in.
Here's what I did:
Crease the edge with Avery's edge rolling tool (or whatever tool works
for you): http://www.averytools.com/pc-45-70-edge-rolling-tool.aspx. Put
a cleco in EVERY hole (unless it interferes with the rivet gun). Use
wing nut clecos on the adjacent holes while riveting. Make sure to push
the rivet gun onto the skin hard enough to push the top skin edge flat
(may require someone pushing on the opposite side of the fuselage to
keep it from sliding sideways).
Mine came out without any puckering between rivets.
good luck,
Steve Allison
RV-6A
Carl Bell wrote:
>
> Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward
> top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it
> around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the
> rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that cant be
> realistically pulled down with clecos, and I dont want it lifting off
> the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
I had the same concerns but doing nothing worked for me. The top skin
snugged right in there when we riveted it. My concern was not warranted
as I am very pleased with the results.
Steve Eberhart - RV-7A Slider, just riveted the forward top skin a week
and a half ago. Working on canopy now.
Carl Bell wrote:
>
> Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward
> top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it
> around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the
> rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that cant be
> realistically pulled down with clecos, and I dont want it lifting off
> the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
I did the same thing! Worked great!
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Bob Collins wrote:
>
> I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge roller.
>
> But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great.
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> Letters from Flyover Country
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for RV-4 Rudder |
Anyone have a spare RV-4 rudder, either complete or kit?=0A=0APaul Besing
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A____________________________________________
________________________________________=0AMoody friends. Drama queens. You
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Top forward skin help. |
| From: | "George, Neal E Capt MIL USAF 605TES/TSI" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil> |
Carl -
I took mine to the local sheet metal shop and asked them to roll it.
Made a HUGE difference.
Neal George
===============
Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward
top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it
around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the
rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that can't be
realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off
the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
Thanks all for your help on that pesky forward skin, I'll do a little
pre-bending and get some wing nut clecos. Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Top forward skin help.
I did the same thing! Worked great!
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website:
http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Bob Collins wrote:
>
> I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge
roller.
>
> But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great.
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> Letters from Flyover Country
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> |
| Subject: | Top forward skin help. |
George, that sound like a good idea, do you remember the radius they used?
Thx Carl
Carl W Bell
New Venture Consulting
Mobile: 803.640.2760
www.newventureconsulting.com
carlbell(at)gforcecable.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George, Neal E Capt
MIL USAF 605TES/TSI
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:33 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Top forward skin help.
Carl -
I took mine to the local sheet metal shop and asked them to roll it.
Made a HUGE difference.
Neal George
===============
Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward
top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it
around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the
rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that can't be
realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off
the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kirt klevin <rv6aokcity(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New Flight Bags... |
Just added some great new bags for your RV, your production plane, or your travel
needs.
See whats new at:
www.bisonmountainbags.com
Happy Flying,
Kurt
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
Hi Carl,
I hand curled or curved the skin.
I did not treat the edges with an edging tool.
I located two 2X4s long enough to slip the forward skin between them with
enough left over to hold them in my bench mounted Vice,.
I clamped the edge of the skin to be riveted between the 2x4s. with a large
C clamps.
This somewhat clumsy assemblage was then clamped into the vice.
With care not to crease the skin at the 2x4 edges I pulled the skin over
enough that the desired gentle curve was created.
I repeated the set up for the other side. I did not try to make the skin
curvature exactly match the supporting ribs.
When done the skin rested not Clekoed onto the structure with the skins
outer edges about two inches away from the fuse sides. Clekoes easily pulled
the skin on as desired.
When riveted the skin fit very nice , no puckering at all and no evidence of
edging tool use.
Keep building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 10:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Top forward skin help.
>
> George, that sound like a good idea, do you remember the radius they
> used?
> Thx Carl
>
> Carl W Bell
> New Venture Consulting
> Mobile: 803.640.2760
> www.newventureconsulting.com
> carlbell(at)gforcecable.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George, Neal E
> Capt
> MIL USAF 605TES/TSI
> Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:33 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Top forward skin help.
>
>
>
> Carl -
>
> I took mine to the local sheet metal shop and asked them to roll it.
> Made a HUGE difference.
>
> Neal George
>
>
> ===============
> Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward
> top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it
> around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the
> rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that can't be
> realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off
> the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Top forward skin help. |
Hi Bobby,
I noticed you have an offset panel (I think it Affordable's) in your plane.
Are you happy with it and would you do that one again or the XL? Also can
you see your Garmin map in the dock ok in the position you have? I'm going
with a G 496 and twin GRT's, an SL 30 and GTX 327. Any thoughts would be
appreciated. Carl
Carl W Bell
New Venture Consulting
Mobile: 803.640.2760
www.newventureconsulting.com
carlbell(at)gforcecable.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Top forward skin help.
I did the same thing! Worked great!
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website:
http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Bob Collins wrote:
>
> I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge
roller.
>
> But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great.
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> Letters from Flyover Country
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WTB: rv-3 or rv-4 project |
| From: | "tailwheelbill" <1tnumqd02(at)sneakemail.com> |
Anybody know of any rv-3 or rv-4 projects for sale?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138184#138184
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Brake caliper bleed fitting. |
Probably a dumb question but...getting ready to install brake calipers on
RV-6A. Cleveland installs the bleeder on the same side of both calipers but
Van's drawing shows the bleeder at the bottom of the installation.
So....I'm assuming that I need to reverse the bleeder and the fluid line
fittings on one of the Calipers? Yes/No? Thanks.
Dean RV-6A
Hope to fly soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "c.ennis" <c.ennis(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake caliper bleed fitting. |
Yes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake caliper bleed fitting. |
Yes
Denis Walsh
On Oct 1, 2007, at 07:20 8042400010, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
>
> Probably a dumb question but...getting ready to install brake
> calipers on
> RV-6A. Cleveland installs the bleeder on the same side of both
> calipers but
> Van's drawing shows the bleeder at the bottom of the installation.
> So....I'm assuming that I need to reverse the bleeder and the fluid
> line
> fittings on one of the Calipers? Yes/No? Thanks.
>
> Dean RV-6A
> Hope to fly soon.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake caliper bleed fitting. |
Yes. Put bleeder on bottom on both sides so that you can force any air
bubbles up thru the system.
Dale Enisng
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 9:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brake caliper bleed fitting.
>
>
>
> Probably a dumb question but...getting ready to install brake calipers on
> RV-6A. Cleveland installs the bleeder on the same side of both calipers
> but
> Van's drawing shows the bleeder at the bottom of the installation.
> So....I'm assuming that I need to reverse the bleeder and the fluid line
> fittings on one of the Calipers? Yes/No? Thanks.
>
> Dean RV-6A
> Hope to fly soon.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
I'm looking for a good all around power chart for a 180 HP, IO-360 with
constant speed propeller.
To be used for POH.
Thanks in advance, please send to me direct.
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Specific Power Chart |
I'm learning to be more specific. I need a power chart for an IO-360-MIB.
Apparently it differs considerably from the O-360-A1A series. I have a
graph and am looking for charted data or table format.
Thanks,
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Power Charts |
Maybe here?
http://www.edt.com/homewing/o360_power.html
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
RV-8 for sale: http://BowenAero.com
On 10/5/07, Steve Glasgow wrote:
>
>
> I'm looking for a good all around power chart for a 180 HP, IO-360 with
> constant speed propeller.
>
> To be used for POH.
>
> Thanks in advance, please send to me direct.
>
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> N123SG RV-8
> Cappy's Toy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Dalman <jdalman2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Power Chart for 180 hp IO-360 |
I need one too! I could also use the graph if someone would share that too!
=0A=0AJohn Dalman=0AN247TD RV-8=0AElburn, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Power Charts |
| From: | "N777TY" <microsmurfer(at)yahoo.com> |
Here's another one:
http://n5lp.net/Power.htm
--------
RV-7A
N777TY
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138474#138474
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake caliper bleed fitting. |
Yes, you do...
----- Original Message -----
From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brake caliper bleed fitting.
Probably a dumb question but...getting ready to install brake calipers
on
RV-6A. Cleveland installs the bleeder on the same side of both
calipers but
Van's drawing shows the bleeder at the bottom of the installation.
So....I'm assuming that I need to reverse the bleeder and the fluid
line
fittings on one of the Calipers? Yes/No? Thanks.
Dean RV-6A
Hope to fly soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Power Charts |
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
Also see Kevin Horton's site:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/phplinks/out.php?&ID=49
Doug Gray
> Maybe here?
>
> http://www.edt.com/homewing/o360_power.html
>
> --
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> RV-8 for sale: http://BowenAero.com
>
> On 10/5/07, Steve Glasgow wrote:
>
>
> I'm looking for a good all around power chart for a 180 HP,
> IO-360 with
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Panel |
Does anyone know how to get to Laird Owens, is he still making panels? Does
he have a site?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Shirley Harding" <ShirleyH(at)oceanbroadband.net> |
Today the altimeter in our RV6 developed a strange fault. When we set
airfield elevation on the ground the pressure displayed was much lower than
reported on the forecast. We set the forecast qnh and that gave an altimeter
error of about 600 feet high. We reset to airfield elevation and took off.
At altitude we set the area qnh reported on Jandakot ATIS which was 20 mb
higher than our altimeter was indicating.
We've checked the static lines - no blockages or leaks that we can find. Any
thoughts?
Cheers
Shirley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Smitty" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Panel |
I contacted him by email a months ago and he was still making the
panels. I don't think he has a website yet. His email is:
owens(at)aerovironment.com
Smitty
http://SmittysRV.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl Bell
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 11:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass Panel
Does anyone know how to get to Laird Owens, is he still making panels?
Does he have a site?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Panel |
Hi Smitty, That is the address I tried and this is what I get back:
SMTP module(domain [192.168.20.116]) reports:
host 192.168.20.116 says:
550 Invalid recipient
Carl W Bell
New Venture Consulting
Mobile: 803.640.2760
<http://www.newventureconsulting.com> www.newventureconsulting.com
carlbell(at)gforcecable.com
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Smitty
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 8:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass Panel
I contacted him by email a months ago and he was still making the panels. I
don't think he has a website yet. His email is:
owens(at)aerovironment.com
Smitty
http://SmittysRV.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl <mailto:carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> Bell
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 11:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass Panel
Does anyone know how to get to Laird Owens, is he still making panels? Does
he have a site?
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Panel |
Got this as a local SoCAL message.
------- insert -------
[Fwd: RV-List: Fiberglass Panel]
Ed,
I'm not subscribed to Matt's lists. Can you forward my email?
laird "at" macelgin.com
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Laird
--------- end insert --------
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,055 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
From: carlbell(at)gforcecable.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fiberglass Panel
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 09:58:36 -0400
Hi Smitty, That is the address I tried and
this is what I get back:
SMTP module(domain [192.168.20.116])
reports:
host 192.168.20.116 says:
550 Invalid recipient
Carl W Bell
New Venture
Consulting
Mobile: 803.640.2760
www.newventureconsulting.com
carlbell(at)gforcecable.com
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
Behalf Of Smitty
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007
8:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass
Panel
I contacted him by email a months ago and he was still
making the panels. I don't think he has a website yet. His email is:
owens(at)aerovironment.com
Smitty
http://SmittysRV.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl
Bell
Sent: Saturday, October
06, 2007 11:33 PM
Subject: RV-List:
Fiberglass Panel
Does anyone know how to get to Laird Owens, is he still
making panels? Does he have a site?
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.mat
ronics.com
_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Caf=E9. Stop
by today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Oc
tWLtagline
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)cebridge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter error |
Shirley,
Anything in an airplane that has preformed well for a long time and then
suddenly has a change should be looked at by someone with experience in that
field. That being said, and if you are sure that altimeter is otherwise
functioning correctly, with reasonable care try this. Adjust the altimeter
to airfield elevation. Near the adjustment knob there is a flat head screw.
Carefully turn it out until the head just clears the face of the instrument
but still is engaged in the threads. The screw is engaged in a small rod
that locks the knob in position. Try not to let it come out or lose it.
Slide the screw away from the adjustment knob to unlock it. With care, pull
out on the knob. In this position the knob will only adjust the Kollsman's
window. Set the QNH in the Kollsman's window. When manipulating the knob in
and out, use a very slight and gentle twisting force to accommodate its
movement. Move the knob to the in position, slide the screw/lock back to
where the screw can be turned in to its original position. If its within 50
ft you got it, if not, do it again.
Careful,
John D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shirley Harding" <ShirleyH(at)oceanbroadband.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 2:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: Altimeter error
>
>
> Today the altimeter in our RV6 developed a strange fault. When we set
> airfield elevation on the ground the pressure displayed was much lower
> than
> reported on the forecast. We set the forecast qnh and that gave an
> altimeter
> error of about 600 feet high. We reset to airfield elevation and took off.
> At altitude we set the area qnh reported on Jandakot ATIS which was 20 mb
> higher than our altimeter was indicating.
>
> We've checked the static lines - no blockages or leaks that we can find.
> Any
> thoughts?
>
> Cheers
>
> Shirley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron leading edges |
For the archives:
Scott at Van's looked at the photos and is sending out new aileron
leading edge skins.
On Monday October 1 2007 09:18:08 pm Michael D. Cencula wrote:
>
> Greetings listers.
>
> I'm working on the ailerons for my -7A and have a slight issue with the
> leading edge skins. As you probably know, the bottom portion of the
> leading edge skin is flat and the top is curved. The problem is that the
> top isn't curved enough. I have to pull the skin down about 1 1/2 or 2
> inches to cleco it to the aileron spar. This makes the bottom skin bulge
> out. Did anyone else run into this? What did you do to fix it? I've
> thought about trying to curl the top of the aileron leading edge skin some
> more, but not sure how to do that.
>
> Thanks for any help you can offer.
>
> Mike Cencula
> RV-7A wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron leading edges |
| From: | "Brent Owens" <bowens(at)netjets.com> |
DQpNaWtlLA0KR29vZCB0byBrbm93LiBUaGFua3MhIEknbSBqdXN0IGdldHRpbmcgaW50byBtaW5l
IHNvIHlvdSB0aW1pbmcgaXMgcGVyZmVjdC4NCkJyZW50IE93ZW5zDQpBc3Npc3RhbnQgRGlyZWN0
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IFJWLUxpc3QgbWVzc2FnZSBwb3N0ZWQgYnk6ICJNaWNoYWVsIEQuIENlbmN1bGEiIDxtYXRyb25p
Y3NAY2VuY3VsYS5jb20+DQoNCkZvciB0aGUgYXJjaGl2ZXM6DQoNClNjb3R0IGF0IFZhbidzIGxv
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Y2hhZWwgRC4gQ2VuY3VsYSB3cm90ZToNCj4gLS0+IFJWLUxpc3QgbWVzc2FnZSBwb3N0ZWQgYnk6
ICJNaWNoYWVsIEQuIENlbmN1bGEiIDxtYXRyb25pY3NAY2VuY3VsYS5jb20+DQo+DQo+IEdyZWV0
aW5ncyBsaXN0ZXJzLg0KPg0KPiBJJ20gd29ya2luZyBvbiB0aGUgYWlsZXJvbnMgZm9yIG15IC03
QSBhbmQgaGF2ZSBhIHNsaWdodCBpc3N1ZSB3aXRoIHRoZQ0KPiBsZWFkaW5nIGVkZ2Ugc2tpbnMu
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Bell" <dbell(at)manisteenational.com> |
| Subject: | Bell Tailwheel Fork |
Fellow flyers and builders...
Yes my Dad is still making the tailwheel forks. He did hae a summer offf as
he puts it due to Heat and helping me paint my 8.
But he has made a deal with a local pilot owned machine shop to assist him
in production. the forks will still go out only after he as approved their
look, fit, finish and feel.
We appreciate the patience of those who are waiting on the order list and
many of you have contacted us after he put orders on hold. I think this
help will catch us up quickly and we should be able to get to all of you.
Dad takes great pride in helping you and with this fork...it just quickly
became overwheming for him.
Thanks and please diorect any emails to me at
dbell(at)manisteenational.com
Now that golf season is coming to an end here in Michigan, I will keep up
with email reply's better.
Thanks to all who are interested and those current customers that have
posted kind comments...
Doug Bell jr.
RV8 266WB
Manistee, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
I posted this over the weekend on the VAF site, but got no response.
-8A QB N192NM so I haven't had the fun assembling the tanks. However, it
is time to install the float-type fuel senders.
I've got a tube of "stuff" from Vans that's supposed to work - if I can
really figure out the mixing instructions. Some really basic questions:
1. Urban legend sez to toss the cork gaskets. Is that correct?
2. Bead size - what's appropriate? While subscribing to the "More is
better" idea, what happens if the excess oozes from the cover plate into
the tank and possibly breaks loose sometime in the future?
3. Rubber gaskets - just in case the damn thing doesn't work and I have
to remove the sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets
without sealer, but put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly.
Good idea?
4. Shelf life - or more accurately - "After mixing useful life". How
long do I have after mixing for useful application capability?
Paul Valovich
N192NM Reserved (Again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jef Vervoort" <jef.vervoortw(at)telenet.be> |
Not very long ago there was an article in EAA-SPORTAVIATION that explained
and suggested to make the cut using a cutting bit in a Dremel tool with a
cutting guide.
I think it was written by an RV builder.
I cannot find the article anymore.
Anyone know the details, or has experience with this method ? Should you
recommend it?
Jef Vervoort 91031; Belgium.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
//1. Urban legend sez to toss the cork gaskets. Is that correct?
As with many things in RV building, there's no right or wrong answer. It's a matter
of personal taste. Ken Scott says the cork gaskets will leak as they dry
out and recommends just prosealing. Others have reported no problem with the cork
gaskets. Still others have used cork gaskets AND proseal.
Part of your decision may have to do with what happens if you have to remove the
sender. It's a lot easier just unscrewing and pulling it off if all you've used
is cork. When meetingthe Van's SB, I pulled both access plates off -- one
with cork and proseal and one with just proseal -- and found both were quite an
exercise.
//2. Bead size - what's appropriate? While subscribing to the "More is better"
idea, what happens if the excess oozes from the cover plate into the tank and
possibly breaks loose sometime in the future?
I subscribe to the more is better rule. I see little liklihood of something breaking
off in the future. Keep the George Orndorff rule in mind. "If you look
in there and say, "that can't leak," it probably won't. But if you look at i and
say, "I don't THINK that'll leak, it probably will."
// Rubber gaskets - just in case the damn thing doesn't work and I have to remove
the sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets without sealer, but
put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly. Good idea?
I did not use the rubber gasket because I found it quite difficult with the screws
on the call-out to get the sender attached. To me, it seemed the rubber gasket
was too think. I just ProSealed.
//4. Shelf life - or more accurately - "After mixing useful life". How long do
I have after mixing for useful application capability?
It depends on the temperature. I've used ProSeal in an unheated garage in December
and it's REALLY thick but takes a long time to set up so you have more time.
I've done it in the heat of summer and while it's easier to apply, It begins
to skin over pretty quickly -- within 15, as I recall.
To me THIS is the big problem I have with those tubes rather than the two cans.
When I used the cans (and I used two quarts on my tanks, by the way, that's how
MUCH I subscribed to the Orndorrf theory (g)), I would use just mix up about
35-40 grams... enough for a couple of ribs, and then work on those two ribs.
Then I'd take a long break and mix more up. Lots of popsicle sticks, lots of
mess, lots of gloves, but I liked being more slow and methodical and not be under
pressure to get stuff done before the ProSeal bomb goes off.
With the tubes...you don't get the mess, but you pay for it with less flexibility
on time and if you are very organized and efficient, I think they're a great
way to go.
I did buy the tube once (we're talking about the one where you mix it in the tube,
right?) for something like $16 and I ended up tossing half of it away because
I didn't need that much.
Some people freeze their ProSeal which they say adds life to it etc. I cannot speak
to that because while my wife is quite forgiving of my airplane mistress,
she draws the line when reaching for an ice cream sandwich and getting a baggie
full of ProSeal instead.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138980#138980
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Jef,
We used a cut off disc in Dremel tool but we did it free hand. One note of
caution - allow some extra overhang (beyound the line on the canopy). The
overhang will not interfere with fitting the canopy to the frame or drillin
g your holes. After you have fitted the canopy canopy, drilled your holes a
nd clecoed the canopy to the fame you can mark the excess for removal.
BTW we tried the plexiglass drill bits and had much better results but dril
ling the initial hole with anew #40 drill bit and then opening up the hole
with the small Uni-Bit. We did have the garage at 60 degrees C (85 degress
F) for 24 hours before we drilled the canopy holes.
Best Wishes,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
From: jef.vervoortw(at)telenet.beTo: rv-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV-List: cu
tting canopyDate: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 17:14:07 +0200
Not very long ago there was an article in EAA-SPORTAVIATION that explained
and suggested to make the cut using a cutting bit in a Dremel tool with a c
utting guide.
I think it was written by an RV builder.
I cannot find the article anymore.
Anyone know the details, or has experience with this method ? Should you re
commend it?
Jef Vervoort 91031; Belgium.
_________________________________________________________________
!
ilnews
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
Hi Chuck,
I would question just one thing you mentioned here. The problem with a
regular drill bit on plexi is the amount of twist in the bit will allow it
to try to pull through the plexi causing a crack. You mentioned using a new
# 40 bit, but in reality I think you are better off with a dull one. I used
a regular "dull" bit to drill my initial holes in the canopy. Then I used
the plexi bits to open them up to the size I needed.
Anyway, I could be wrong but it seems this is how I remember how it goes.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Rowbotham
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 12:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: cutting canopy
Jef,
We used a cut off disc in Dremel tool but we did it free hand. One note of
caution - allow some extra overhang (beyound the line on the canopy). The
overhang will not interfere with fitting the canopy to the frame or drilling
your holes. After you have fitted the canopy canopy, drilled your holes and
clecoed the canopy to the fame you can mark the excess for removal.
BTW we tried the plexiglass drill bits and had much better results but
drilling the initial hole with anew #40 drill bit and then opening up the
hole with the small Uni-Bit. We did have the garage at 60 degrees C (85
degress F) for 24 hours before we drilled the canopy holes.
Best Wishes,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
_____
From: jef.vervoortw(at)telenet.be
Subject: RV-List: cutting canopy
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 17:14:07 +0200
Not very long ago there was an article in EAA-SPORTAVIATION that explained
and suggested to make the cut using a cutting bit in a Dremel tool with a
cutting guide.
I think it was written by an RV builder.
I cannot find the article anymore.
Anyone know the details, or has experience with this method ? Should you
recommend it?
Jef Vervoort 91031; Belgium.
_____
Boo! Scare awnews' target='_new'>Try now!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com> |
I agree with you on sharp vs dull, Tim.
For cutting mine, I did it freehand, using a 4=94 cutoff wheel in my
battery
drill. Using one in a die grinder should work just as well.
IMHO, the Dremel cutters are too fine for what=92s needed here ' no
need for
such a fine cut, with larger diameter cutter, you can get wheel more
perpendicular to the work, and the fine Dremel wheels break easily.
Details here:
HYPERLINK
"http://brian76.mystarband.net/canopy.htm"http://brian76.mystarband.net/c
ano
py.htm - plexi work beginning end of September
if it=92s cold out when you work on plexi, just put the canopy on
sawhorses &
put a little camping heater under the bubble for awhile ot get plexi
nice &
warm
brian
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 1:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: cutting canopy
Hi Chuck,
I would question just one thing you mentioned here. The problem with a
regular drill bit on plexi is the amount of twist in the bit will allow
it
to try to pull through the plexi causing a crack. You mentioned using a
new
# 40 bit, but in reality I think you are better off with a dull one. I
used
a regular =93dull=94 bit to drill my initial holes in the canopy. Then
I used
the plexi bits to open them up to the size I needed.
Anyway, I could be wrong but it seems this is how I remember how it
goes.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
Rowbotham
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 12:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: cutting canopy
Jef,
We used a cut off disc in Dremel tool but we did it free hand. One note
of
caution - allow some extra overhang (beyound the line on the canopy).
The
overhang will not interfere with fitting the canopy to the frame or
drilling
your holes. After you have fitted the canopy canopy, drilled your holes
and
clecoed the canopy to the fame you can mark the excess for removal.
BTW we tried the plexiglass drill bits and had much better results but
drilling the initial hole with anew #40 drill bit and then opening up
the
hole with the small Uni-Bit. We did have the garage at 60 degrees C (85
degress F) for 24 hours before we drilled the canopy holes.
Best Wishes,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
_____
From: jef.vervoortw(at)telenet.be
Subject: RV-List: cutting canopy
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 17:14:07 +0200
Not very long ago there was an article in EAA-SPORTAVIATION that
explained
and suggested to make the cut using a cutting bit in a Dremel tool with
a
cutting guide.
I think it was written by an RV builder.
I cannot find the article anymore.
Anyone know the details, or has experience with this method ? Should you
recommend it?
Jef Vervoort 91031; Belgium.
_____
Boo! Scare awnews' target='_new'>Try now!
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gat
or?RV-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
10/8/2007
4:54 PM
10/8/2007
4:54 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
Tim is correct. Plexiglass drill bits have been made with about half the
cutting angle of regular metal cutting bits. This restrains them from
getting too much bite and starting a crack. Use moderate drill speed (not
slow) and low pressure. Test your dull bit on scrap first.
Dale
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 1:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: cutting canopy
Hi Chuck,
I would question just one thing you mentioned here. The problem with a
regular drill bit on plexi is the amount of twist in the bit will allow it
to try to pull through the plexi causing a crack. You mentioned using a new
# 40 bit, but in reality I think you are better off with a dull one. I used
a regular "dull" bit to drill my initial holes in the canopy. Then I used
the plexi bits to open them up to the size I needed.
Anyway, I could be wrong but it seems this is how I remember how it goes.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Rowbotham
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 12:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: cutting canopy
Jef,
We used a cut off disc in Dremel tool but we did it free hand. One note of
caution - allow some extra overhang (beyound the line on the canopy). The
overhang will not interfere with fitting the canopy to the frame or drilling
your holes. After you have fitted the canopy canopy, drilled your holes and
clecoed the canopy to the fame you can mark the excess for removal.
BTW we tried the plexiglass drill bits and had much better results but
drilling the initial hole with anew #40 drill bit and then opening up the
hole with the small Uni-Bit. We did have the garage at 60 degrees C (85
degress F) for 24 hours before we drilled the canopy holes.
Best Wishes,
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection plates
and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my opinion; 1.
They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2. The bottom of the
head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which makes a sealing edge out
at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you need to remove or
re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much easier to do with a short
Allen wrench segment in one of the very small right angle ratchet
screwdrivers handles.
I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with the
SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
Dale Ensing
> Part of your decision may have to do with what happens if you have to
> remove the sender. It's a lot easier just unscrewing and pulling it off if
> all you've used is cork. When meetingthe Van's SB, I pulled both access
> plates off -- one with cork and proseal and one with just proseal -- and
> found both were quite an exercise.
>
>
> // Rubber gaskets - just in case they don't work and I have to remove the
> sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets without sealer, but
> put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly. Good idea?
>
> I did not use the rubber gasket because I found it quite difficult with
> the screws on the call-out to get the sender attached. To me, it seemed
> the rubber gasket was too think. I just ProSealed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cutting canopy |
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
dale1rv6(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Use moderate drill speed (not slow) and low pressure. Test your dull bit on
scrap first.
> Dale
>
Too late for me now but I'm curious if I've introduced a problem into my canopy
project unwittingly. I turned my drill VERY slowly when drilling the canopy,
exerting very little pressure. My goal was to scrape...not cut... when I drilled.
What have I done by drilling too slowly?
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138991#138991
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
Here's my question, has anyone ever used EZ Turn Fuellube between the gasket
and the plate, Vs proseal?
Jim
RV9a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 11:58 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: ProSeal
>
> //1. Urban legend sez to toss the cork gaskets. Is that correct?
>
> As with many things in RV building, there's no right or wrong answer. It's
> a matter of personal taste. Ken Scott says the cork gaskets will leak as
> they dry out and recommends just prosealing. Others have reported no
> problem with the cork gaskets. Still others have used cork gaskets AND
> proseal.
>
> Part of your decision may have to do with what happens if you have to
> remove the sender. It's a lot easier just unscrewing and pulling it off if
> all you've used is cork. When meetingthe Van's SB, I pulled both access
> plates off -- one with cork and proseal and one with just proseal -- and
> found both were quite an exercise.
>
> //2. Bead size - what's appropriate? While subscribing to the "More is
> better" idea, what happens if the excess oozes from the cover plate into
> the tank and possibly breaks loose sometime in the future?
>
> I subscribe to the more is better rule. I see little liklihood of
> something breaking off in the future. Keep the George Orndorff rule in
> mind. "If you look in there and say, "that can't leak," it probably won't.
> But if you look at i and say, "I don't THINK that'll leak, it probably
> will."
>
> // Rubber gaskets - just in case the damn thing doesn't work and I have to
> remove the sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets without
> sealer, but put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly. Good idea?
>
> I did not use the rubber gasket because I found it quite difficult with
> the screws on the call-out to get the sender attached. To me, it seemed
> the rubber gasket was too think. I just ProSealed.
>
> //4. Shelf life - or more accurately - "After mixing useful life". How
> long do I have after mixing for useful application capability?
>
> It depends on the temperature. I've used ProSeal in an unheated garage in
> December and it's REALLY thick but takes a long time to set up so you have
> more time. I've done it in the heat of summer and while it's easier to
> apply, It begins to skin over pretty quickly -- within 15, as I recall.
>
> To me THIS is the big problem I have with those tubes rather than the two
> cans. When I used the cans (and I used two quarts on my tanks, by the way,
> that's how MUCH I subscribed to the Orndorrf theory (g)), I would use just
> mix up about 35-40 grams... enough for a couple of ribs, and then work on
> those two ribs. Then I'd take a long break and mix more up. Lots of
> popsicle sticks, lots of mess, lots of gloves, but I liked being more slow
> and methodical and not be under pressure to get stuff done before the
> ProSeal bomb goes off.
>
> With the tubes...you don't get the mess, but you pay for it with less
> flexibility on time and if you are very organized and efficient, I think
> they're a great way to go.
>
> I did buy the tube once (we're talking about the one where you mix it in
> the tube, right?) for something like $16 and I ended up tossing half of it
> away because I didn't need that much.
>
> Some people freeze their ProSeal which they say adds life to it etc. I
> cannot speak to that because while my wife is quite forgiving of my
> airplane mistress, she draws the line when reaching for an ice cream
> sandwich and getting a baggie full of ProSeal instead.
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> Letters from Flyover Country
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138980#138980
>
>
> --
> 8:44 AM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting canopy |
No problem, the light pressure is the most important. If you don't see any
cracks you are a winner. Some who go slow push harder when they don't see
the hole developing and that can start a crack. The ideal combination of
speed and pressure will produce a thin rather steady chip. A machinist
judges his progress based on the chip output.
Dale
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 3:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: cutting canopy
dale1rv6(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Use moderate drill speed (not slow) and low pressure. Test your dull bit
on scrap first.
> Dale
>
Too late for me now but I'm curious if I've introduced a problem into my
canopy project unwittingly. I turned my drill VERY slowly when drilling the
canopy, exerting very little pressure. My goal was to scrape...not cut...
when I drilled. What have I done by drilling too slowly?
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138991#138991
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter error - ASI question |
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
John,
Very interesting procedure for adjusting the Altimeter. I'm looking
forward to the outcome from Shirley.
Do you have a procedure for adjusting an airspeed indicator?
I have a very nice second hand ASI (Unknown German brand, model is
FM-440/4) but has an error at zero diff. pressure of ~25 kts. I have
not tested the range yet so I don't know if this is across the scale.
Can this be adjusted or do I have a dud?
TIA
Doug Gray
>
> Shirley,
>
> Anything in an airplane that has preformed well for a long time and then
> suddenly has a change should be looked at by someone with experience in that
> field. That being said, and if you are sure that altimeter is otherwise
> functioning correctly, with reasonable care try this. Adjust the altimeter
> to airfield elevation. Near the adjustment knob there is a flat head screw.
> Carefully turn it out until the head just clears the face of the instrument
> but still is engaged in the threads. The screw is engaged in a small rod
> that locks the knob in position. Try not to let it come out or lose it.
> Slide the screw away from the adjustment knob to unlock it. With care, pull
> out on the knob. In this position the knob will only adjust the Kollsman's
> window. Set the QNH in the Kollsman's window. When manipulating the knob in
> and out, use a very slight and gentle twisting force to accommodate its
> movement. Move the knob to the in position, slide the screw/lock back to
> where the screw can be turned in to its original position. If its within 50
> ft you got it, if not, do it again.
>
> Careful,
> John D.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Shirley Harding" <ShirleyH(at)oceanbroadband.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 2:56 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Altimeter error
>
>
> >
> >
> > Today the altimeter in our RV6 developed a strange fault. When we set
> > airfield elevation on the ground the pressure displayed was much lower
> > than
> > reported on the forecast. We set the forecast qnh and that gave an
> > altimeter
> > error of about 600 feet high. We reset to airfield elevation and took off.
> > At altitude we set the area qnh reported on Jandakot ATIS which was 20 mb
> > higher than our altimeter was indicating.
> >
> > We've checked the static lines - no blockages or leaks that we can find.
> > Any
> > thoughts?
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Shirley
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
I don't know any instances of Fuel Lube being used but a few of the folks in the
Minnesota Wing of Van Air Force say a product called TiteSeal is a fine alternative.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138999#138999
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)cebridge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter error - ASI question |
Doug,
That one has to go to the shop. I can say though, airspeed indicator errors
are generally in the Pitot/Static system. The main trouble spot seems to be
the Static Port position and height above the surrounding surface. There are
some very elegant solutions available for static ports, but in my opinion
they are just a fancy way to terminate the static tubing at skin level. A
cheap pop rivet with enough length to install the tubing on and a washer
placed between it and the head of the gun when it is installed has worked
for me many times. The washer is to make the rivet head flat and without the
slight oval shape they normally have.
John D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Altimeter error - ASI question
>
> John,
>
> Very interesting procedure for adjusting the Altimeter. I'm looking
> forward to the outcome from Shirley.
>
> Do you have a procedure for adjusting an airspeed indicator?
>
> I have a very nice second hand ASI (Unknown German brand, model is
> FM-440/4) but has an error at zero diff. pressure of ~25 kts. I have
> not tested the range yet so I don't know if this is across the scale.
>
> Can this be adjusted or do I have a dud?
>
> TIA
> Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cutting canopy |
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
Right. Saw that. Followed it. But the question wasn't about the procedure, it
was about the speed at which a drill bit should turn in plexi.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139008#139008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris W <3edcft6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | VHB Tape vs Rivets |
I have recently seen an episode of "Modern Marvels" on the history
channel called "Sticky Stuff". One of the things they had on that show,
is this tape called VHB tape made by 3M. In a test they repeatedly
impacted a 16 lb bowling ball against 2 sheets of aluminum bonded with
VHB tape till it failed, then they did the same test with the 2 sheets
of aluminum riveted together. Since this was 3M doing the test,
obviously there tape performed better. However based on the fact that
bowling balls are between 8.5 and 8.6" in diameter, it appears as they
only had a rivet every 4 inches. I would be really curious to see how
the tape compared to doing it with the appropriate number of rivets.
Anyone want to try the test? Below is a link to a youtube video of the
demonstration.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=ZhKreIqU_R4
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
"Protect your digital freedom and privacy, eliminate DRM,
learn more at http://www.defectivebydesign.org/what_is_drm"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Jim,
I am of the same opinion as you. I have put EZ fuel lube on my
cork gaskets (both sides) and installed them. I used moderate pressure
on the screws so they should not leak. I need to get some av gas and run
some test strips to see how it is affected. It seems at this point to
reject the fuel quite nicely. So--- I am running with it that way.
Worst case, I'll have to replace the gaskets and do it bare . I can not
think about pro seal on the fittings. I did get some silicone O-Ringed
screws from McMaster Carr so the fuel would not come back up the threads
and leak that way. For the standard float level Stewart Warner senders,
I added a ground wire to the sender to be sure they would work. I think
I have it on my web site at www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn so take a
peak.
Jim
N15JN
(almost ready for paint)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting canopy |
I'd say if you didn't crack anything, you are good to go
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 3:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: cutting canopy
dale1rv6(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Use moderate drill speed (not slow) and low pressure. Test your dull bit
on scrap first.
> Dale
>
Too late for me now but I'm curious if I've introduced a problem into my
canopy project unwittingly. I turned my drill VERY slowly when drilling the
canopy, exerting very little pressure. My goal was to scrape...not cut...
when I drilled. What have I done by drilling too slowly?
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138991#138991
4:54 PM
4:54 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
Jim, My A&P told me that he has uses EZ Turn to seal fuel tank senders on
various aircraft over many years and that it has worked good. I'm hoping he
is right because it sure is easier to work with. I used proseal on all the
other parts on the fuel tank sender and fuel line but I used the EZ Turn on
the screws and gasket. Thanks for your reply, it's great to know someone
else is trying this product. I need to add fuel and then test it over the
years for the final outcome. More to come later!
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 3:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pro Seal
>
> Hi Jim,
> I am of the same opinion as you. I have put EZ fuel lube on my
> cork gaskets (both sides) and installed them. I used moderate pressure
> on the screws so they should not leak. I need to get some av gas and run
> some test strips to see how it is affected. It seems at this point to
> reject the fuel quite nicely. So--- I am running with it that way.
> Worst case, I'll have to replace the gaskets and do it bare . I can not
> think about pro seal on the fittings. I did get some silicone O-Ringed
> screws from McMaster Carr so the fuel would not come back up the threads
> and leak that way. For the standard float level Stewart Warner senders,
> I added a ground wire to the sender to be sure they would work. I think
> I have it on my web site at www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn so take a
> peak.
>
> Jim
> N15JN
> (almost ready for paint)
>
>
> --
> 8:44 AM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
Just another data point...
When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare of a
time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as replacements for
the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the heads (Allen Wrench
type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 2:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection plates
> and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my opinion;
> 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2. The bottom of
> the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which makes a sealing
> edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you need to remove
> or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much easier to do with a
> short Allen wrench segment in one of the very small right angle ratchet
> screwdrivers handles.
>
> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with
> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
> Dale Ensing
>
>
>> Part of your decision may have to do with what happens if you have to
>> remove the sender. It's a lot easier just unscrewing and pulling it off
>> if all you've used is cork. When meetingthe Van's SB, I pulled both
>> access plates off -- one with cork and proseal and one with just
>> proseal -- and found both were quite an exercise.
>>
>>
>> // Rubber gaskets - just in case they don't work and I have to remove the
>> sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets without sealer, but
>> put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly. Good idea?
>>
>> I did not use the rubber gasket because I found it quite difficult with
>> the screws on the call-out to get the sender attached. To me, it seemed
>> the rubber gasket was too think. I just ProSealed.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
Check the RV-list archives before you go with the fuel lube and gasket
approach. I think you'll find a spotty success rate.
History shows that using Proseal with no gasket gives you the best odds of a
leak free tank. I'd go that route simply because it is a hassle to work in
the wing root are once the wings are installed, and you'll be happier
avoiding that chore down the road.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:53 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pro Seal
>
> Hi Jim,
> I am of the same opinion as you. I have put EZ fuel lube on my
> cork gaskets (both sides) and installed them. I used moderate pressure
> on the screws so they should not leak. I need to get some av gas and run
> some test strips to see how it is affected. It seems at this point to
> reject the fuel quite nicely. So--- I am running with it that way.
> Worst case, I'll have to replace the gaskets and do it bare . I can not
> think about pro seal on the fittings. I did get some silicone O-Ringed
> screws from McMaster Carr so the fuel would not come back up the threads
> and leak that way. For the standard float level Stewart Warner senders,
> I added a ground wire to the sender to be sure they would work. I think
> I have it on my web site at www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn so take a
> peak.
>
> Jim
> N15JN
> (almost ready for paint)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
Silicone is not recommended for use with hydrocarbons (avgas or mogas)
as it swells and gets very soft. Viton, fluorosilicone, Kalrez are all
excellent when exposed to fuel. Buna-N is good and especially where it
is not immersed in gasoline is an acceptable inexpensive choice.
Dick Tasker.
James H Nelson wrote:
>
> Hi Jim,
> I am of the same opinion as you. I have put EZ fuel lube on my
> cork gaskets (both sides) and installed them. I used moderate pressure
> on the screws so they should not leak. I need to get some av gas and run
> some test strips to see how it is affected. It seems at this point to
> reject the fuel quite nicely. So--- I am running with it that way.
> Worst case, I'll have to replace the gaskets and do it bare . I can not
> think about pro seal on the fittings. I did get some silicone O-Ringed
> screws from McMaster Carr so the fuel would not come back up the threads
> and leak that way. For the standard float level Stewart Warner senders,
> I added a ground wire to the sender to be sure they would work. I think
> I have it on my web site at www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn so take a
> peak.
>
> Jim
> N15JN
> (almost ready for paint)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
Hi guys:
On 2 of my RV=B9s and several other local ones, we have simply used Aviation
Form A Gasket (available at any NAPA store) and the cork gaskets to seal th
e
tank covers. This was worked flawlessly with no leaks fore many years.
Give it a try!!
Doug Weiler
N722DW, 400+ hours
On 10/9/07 9:23 AM, "Valovich, Paul" wrote:
> I posted this over the weekend on the VAF site, but got no response.
>
> -8A QB N192NM so I haven't had the fun assembling the tanks. However, it
is
> time to install the float-type fuel senders.
>
> I've got a tube of "stuff" from Vans that's supposed to work - if I can r
eally
> figure out the mixing instructions. Some really basic questions:
>
> 1. Urban legend sez to toss the cork gaskets. Is that correct?
> 2. Bead size - what's appropriate? While subscribing to the "More is bett
er"
> idea, what happens if the excess oozes from the cover plate into the tank
and
> possibly breaks loose sometime in the future?
> 3. Rubber gaskets - just in case the damn thing doesn't work and I have t
o
> remove the sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets without se
aler,
> but put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly. Good idea?
> 4. Shelf life - or more accurately - "After mixing useful life". How long
do I
> have after mixing for useful application capability?
> Paul Valovich
> N192NM Reserved (Again)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
Kyle
Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws strip
out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where there
other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex socket vs.
the Phillips.
Dale
>
> Just another data point...
>
> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare of a
> time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as replacements
> for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the heads (Allen
> Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
>
> KB
>>
>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my
>> opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2. The
>> bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which makes a
>> sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you need
>> to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much easier to
>> do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of the very small right angle
>> ratchet screwdrivers handles.
>>
>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with
>> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
>> Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
It has been a couple of years since my bad experience, but my recollection
is that the heads stripped simply because of the torque required to run the
screws down into the platenuts. They were not even snug when they stripped.
I was very surprised that they stripped out in platenuts that had already
been run-in.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
> Kyle
> Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws strip
> out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where there
> other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex socket
> vs. the Phillips.
> Dale
>
>>
>> Just another data point...
>>
>> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare of
>> a time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as
>> replacements for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the
>> heads (Allen Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
>>
>> KB
>
>>>
>>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
>>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my
>>> opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2. The
>>> bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which makes
>>> a sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you
>>> need to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much
>>> easier to do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of the very small
>>> right angle ratchet screwdrivers handles.
>>>
>>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with
>>> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
>>> Dale Ensing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Paynter <jpaynter(at)cyberg8t.com> |
| Subject: | Property Tax Appeal |
Listers:
I'm in the process of appealing the property tax valuation on my RV-9A.
I spent approximately 60k and it's being valued at 108k by San
Bernardino Co., CA. So I'm looking for 3 or 4 people who have sold or
bought an RV-9A who would be willing to share their hard data with me
such as name, phone#, selling price, etc. All information would be kept
confidential shared only with the County.
For comparison my RV is VFR, O-320, fixed pitch prop, Dynon, 1 radio,
handheld GPS, and Digitrak.
Please reply off list to: jpaynter(at)cyberg8t.com
Thanks in advance,
Jim Paynter
RV-9A, KCCB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Olech" <olechap(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Epoxy not hardening |
Hey guys,
I'm having a problem with the epoxy (aeropoxy) I used for coating the cowl
surface. I thinned with acetone per Van's directions, but after 4 days now
(or so) it's still tacky. It feels smooth if you run your finger over it,
but if you just touch it - it's sticky.
Batch was purchased 10 mo ago (no date on container)
Stored in 60F+
Parts are curing in a humidity controlled environment, 70-75F
Epoxy worked ok 3 months ago
Mixed by weight on postal scale
That said, I think I figured it out... but check me. A few of my colleagues
mentioned that my hardener might be the problem and that it needs stirring.
I opened the can and it had crystallized slightly. I suppose if I read the
side of the can in CAPS where it says "MAY CRYSTALLIZE IN STORAGE" that I
would have checked earlier. My questions are:
1. Since I mixed a few batches without homogeneous hardener, would the
mixed remainder be of the wrong constituents and should I just throw it out?
I'm not planning on using this stuff for anything flight critical or
structural. Perhaps I need to heat the hardener to re-mix it correctly?
2. How can I remove the sticky crap off the cowling so I can start over, or
is there something I can do to cure it? Sanding just gums up the sandpaper
and acetone just made it stickier. I tried a small corner of MEK, but
wonder if I'll hurt the prepreg substrate.
Any suggestions? All comments will be appreciated.
-Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Paynter <jpaynter(at)cyberg8t.com> |
Listers:
I'm getting old and forget things. Please forgive me! On my previuos
post I forgot to add that the data I need should be for an RV-9A bought
or sold between the months of Oct., 2005 and Mar., 2006.
Thanks again,
Jim Paynter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Epoxy not hardening |
Order a new cowl? DOH! Just kidding. What about that deadly stuff
called MEK???
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Andrew Olech wrote:
>
>
>Hey guys,
>
>I'm having a problem with the epoxy (aeropoxy) I used for coating the cowl
>surface. I thinned with acetone per Van's directions, but after 4 days now
>(or so) it's still tacky. It feels smooth if you run your finger over it,
>but if you just touch it - it's sticky.
>
>Batch was purchased 10 mo ago (no date on container)
>Stored in 60F+
>Parts are curing in a humidity controlled environment, 70-75F
>Epoxy worked ok 3 months ago
>Mixed by weight on postal scale
>
>That said, I think I figured it out... but check me. A few of my colleagues
>mentioned that my hardener might be the problem and that it needs stirring.
>I opened the can and it had crystallized slightly. I suppose if I read the
>side of the can in CAPS where it says "MAY CRYSTALLIZE IN STORAGE" that I
>would have checked earlier. My questions are:
>
>1. Since I mixed a few batches without homogeneous hardener, would the
>mixed remainder be of the wrong constituents and should I just throw it out?
>I'm not planning on using this stuff for anything flight critical or
>structural. Perhaps I need to heat the hardener to re-mix it correctly?
>
>2. How can I remove the sticky crap off the cowling so I can start over, or
>is there something I can do to cure it? Sanding just gums up the sandpaper
>and acetone just made it stickier. I tried a small corner of MEK, but
>wonder if I'll hurt the prepreg substrate.
>
>Any suggestions? All comments will be appreciated.
>
>-Andy
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Property Tax Appeal |
I would think that the receipts of what you paid for your kit would do the
trick. The value is the sum of the cost. Unless the state of CA thinks they
can tax you on the value of your labor.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Paynter
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 10:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Property Tax Appeal
Listers:
I'm in the process of appealing the property tax valuation on my RV-9A.
I spent approximately 60k and it's being valued at 108k by San
Bernardino Co., CA. So I'm looking for 3 or 4 people who have sold or
bought an RV-9A who would be willing to share their hard data with me
such as name, phone#, selling price, etc. All information would be kept
confidential shared only with the County.
For comparison my RV is VFR, O-320, fixed pitch prop, Dynon, 1 radio,
handheld GPS, and Digitrak.
Please reply off list to: jpaynter(at)cyberg8t.com
Thanks in advance,
Jim Paynter
RV-9A, KCCB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Epoxy not hardening |
When ever you have a problem like this I beleive you should always call the manufacturer,
they know better than anybody as to what is going on. I had the same
problem on the cowl and after calling the manufacturer they told me that it
is normal to get a film on the surface of the epoxy......I dont remember the reasoning
(its been 5 years) to get it off I just sanded, yes it plugged the sand
paper but I had a bunch so......
Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
----- Original Message ----
From: Andrew Olech <olechap(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 9, 2007 7:29:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: Epoxy not hardening
Hey guys,
I'm having a problem with the epoxy (aeropoxy) I used for coating the cowl
surface. I thinned with acetone per Van's directions, but after 4 days now
(or so) it's still tacky. It feels smooth if you run your finger over it,
but if you just touch it - it's sticky.
Batch was purchased 10 mo ago (no date on container)
Stored in 60F+
Parts are curing in a humidity controlled environment, 70-75F
Epoxy worked ok 3 months ago
Mixed by weight on postal scale
That said, I think I figured it out... but check me. A few of my colleagues
mentioned that my hardener might be the problem and that it needs stirring.
I opened the can and it had crystallized slightly. I suppose if I read the
side of the can in CAPS where it says "MAY CRYSTALLIZE IN STORAGE" that I
would have checked earlier. My questions are:
1. Since I mixed a few batches without homogeneous hardener, would the
mixed remainder be of the wrong constituents and should I just throw it out?
I'm not planning on using this stuff for anything flight critical or
structural. Perhaps I need to heat the hardener to re-mix it correctly?
2. How can I remove the sticky crap off the cowling so I can start over, or
is there something I can do to cure it? Sanding just gums up the sandpaper
and acetone just made it stickier. I tried a small corner of MEK, but
wonder if I'll hurt the prepreg substrate.
Any suggestions? All comments will be appreciated.
-Andy
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.
http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
I beleive socket head cap screws are recommended here.......if memory serves, much
harder to strip than phillips.
Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
----- Original Message ----
From: Kyle Boatright <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 9, 2007 6:42:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
It has been a couple of years since my bad experience, but my recollection
is that the heads stripped simply because of the torque required to run the
screws down into the platenuts. They were not even snug when they stripped.
I was very surprised that they stripped out in platenuts that had already
been run-in.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
> Kyle
> Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws strip
> out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where there
> other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex socket
> vs. the Phillips.
> Dale
>
>>
>> Just another data point...
>>
>> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare of
>> a time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as
>> replacements for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the
>> heads (Allen Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
>>
>> KB
>
>>>
>>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
>>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my
>>> opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2. The
>>> bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which makes
>>> a sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you
>>> need to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much
>>> easier to do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of the very small
>>> right angle ratchet screwdrivers handles.
>>>
>>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with
>>> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
>>> Dale Ensing
>
>
>
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news,
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Epoxy not hardening |
Andy,
Try www.fibreglast.com for help. They a resin company only and have a whole
on-line help section. I'm getting ready to do my epoxy work and have dealt
with Fibreglast before when I was mold making. Great source for products
and advice. Sounds like I should have posted it earlier.
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Olech" <olechap(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 10:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Epoxy not hardening
>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I'm having a problem with the epoxy (aeropoxy) I used for coating the cowl
> surface. I thinned with acetone per Van's directions, but after 4 days
> now
> (or so) it's still tacky. It feels smooth if you run your finger over it,
> but if you just touch it - it's sticky.
>
> Batch was purchased 10 mo ago (no date on container)
> Stored in 60F+
> Parts are curing in a humidity controlled environment, 70-75F
> Epoxy worked ok 3 months ago
> Mixed by weight on postal scale
>
> That said, I think I figured it out... but check me. A few of my
> colleagues
> mentioned that my hardener might be the problem and that it needs
> stirring.
> I opened the can and it had crystallized slightly. I suppose if I read
> the
> side of the can in CAPS where it says "MAY CRYSTALLIZE IN STORAGE" that I
> would have checked earlier. My questions are:
>
> 1. Since I mixed a few batches without homogeneous hardener, would the
> mixed remainder be of the wrong constituents and should I just throw it
> out?
> I'm not planning on using this stuff for anything flight critical or
> structural. Perhaps I need to heat the hardener to re-mix it correctly?
>
> 2. How can I remove the sticky crap off the cowling so I can start over,
> or
> is there something I can do to cure it? Sanding just gums up the
> sandpaper
> and acetone just made it stickier. I tried a small corner of MEK, but
> wonder if I'll hurt the prepreg substrate.
>
> Any suggestions? All comments will be appreciated.
>
> -Andy
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Property Tax Appeal |
One other thing, if the state is trying to tax your labor, tell them that
because of product liability issues, you will never sell it but scrap it
instead. Therefore, it's resale value is zero and you owe nothing. It's been
done, witness airplanes being donated to museums, turned into windsocks, or
cut up into pieces. All to avoid product liability.
So, argue that because it's an experimental aircraft its value is zero.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 11:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Property Tax Appeal
I would think that the receipts of what you paid for your kit would do the
trick. The value is the sum of the cost. Unless the state of CA thinks they
can tax you on the value of your labor.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Paynter
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 10:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Property Tax Appeal
Listers:
I'm in the process of appealing the property tax valuation on my RV-9A.
I spent approximately 60k and it's being valued at 108k by San
Bernardino Co., CA. So I'm looking for 3 or 4 people who have sold or
bought an RV-9A who would be willing to share their hard data with me
such as name, phone#, selling price, etc. All information would be kept
confidential shared only with the County.
For comparison my RV is VFR, O-320, fixed pitch prop, Dynon, 1 radio,
handheld GPS, and Digitrak.
Please reply off list to: jpaynter(at)cyberg8t.com
Thanks in advance,
Jim Paynter
RV-9A, KCCB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Epoxy not hardening |
Set it out in the sun to warm up and cure.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 11:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Epoxy not hardening
Order a new cowl? DOH! Just kidding. What about that deadly stuff
called MEK???
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Andrew Olech wrote:
>
>
>Hey guys,
>
>I'm having a problem with the epoxy (aeropoxy) I used for coating the cowl
>surface. I thinned with acetone per Van's directions, but after 4 days now
>(or so) it's still tacky. It feels smooth if you run your finger over it,
>but if you just touch it - it's sticky.
>
>Batch was purchased 10 mo ago (no date on container)
>Stored in 60F+
>Parts are curing in a humidity controlled environment, 70-75F
>Epoxy worked ok 3 months ago
>Mixed by weight on postal scale
>
>That said, I think I figured it out... but check me. A few of my
colleagues
>mentioned that my hardener might be the problem and that it needs stirring.
>I opened the can and it had crystallized slightly. I suppose if I read the
>side of the can in CAPS where it says "MAY CRYSTALLIZE IN STORAGE" that I
>would have checked earlier. My questions are:
>
>1. Since I mixed a few batches without homogeneous hardener, would the
>mixed remainder be of the wrong constituents and should I just throw it
out?
>I'm not planning on using this stuff for anything flight critical or
>structural. Perhaps I need to heat the hardener to re-mix it correctly?
>
>2. How can I remove the sticky crap off the cowling so I can start over, or
>is there something I can do to cure it? Sanding just gums up the sandpaper
>and acetone just made it stickier. I tried a small corner of MEK, but
>wonder if I'll hurt the prepreg substrate.
>
>Any suggestions? All comments will be appreciated.
>
>-Andy
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sende |
I had the same stripped-screw issue and it really sucked. Plus, with the
wings on you can't get any tools in there. I was getting leaks around the
screw heads. I ended up putting some Marine epoxy(label said can be used to
seal fuel tanks) around each of the leaky screws and it fixed the problem.
It has only been a couple months so I can't guarantee how long it will last.
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
>
>
> It has been a couple of years since my bad experience, but my recollection
> is that the heads stripped simply because of the torque required to run
> the
> screws down into the platenuts. They were not even snug when they
> stripped.
>
> I was very surprised that they stripped out in platenuts that had already
> been run-in.
>
> KB
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 9:21 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
>
> >
> > Kyle
> > Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws
> strip
> > out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where there
> > other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex socket
> > vs. the Phillips.
> > Dale
> >
> kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
> >>
> >> Just another data point...
> >>
> >> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare
> of
> >> a time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as
> >> replacements for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the
> >> heads (Allen Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
> >>
> >> KB
> >
> >>>
> >>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
> >>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In
> my
> >>> opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2.
> The
> >>> bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which
> makes
> >>> a sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you
> >>> need to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much
> >>> easier to do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of the very
> small
> >>> right angle ratchet screwdrivers handles.
> >>>
> >>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out
> with
> >>> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
> >>> Dale Ensing
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail,
> news, photos & more.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
Dale and others,
I bought some SS 8X32 round or button head screws that had the annoying
habit of stripping out during installation.
The Allen wrench key socket size was 'about' 3/32" ..(Its been a while) ;-)
Later I bought a box of SS 8X32 "Allen head' screws. These required an Allen
head socket wrench size of 'about' 3/16" and are plenty strong enough to be
used in places such as the fuel tanks etc.
I have yet to strip out one of these Allen head screws even when being
deliberately abusive during a test to see what they could take.
They have been holding back fuel for a year so far and they offer far better
access in tight quarters than their Philips head type cousins.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
> Kyle
> Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws strip
> out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where there
> other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex socket
> vs. the Phillips.
> Dale
>
>>
>> Just another data point...
>>
>> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare of
>> a time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as
>> replacements for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the
>> heads (Allen Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
>>
>> KB
>
>>>
>>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
>>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my
>>> opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2. The
>>> bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which makes
>>> a sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if you
>>> need to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is much
>>> easier to do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of the very small
>>> right angle ratchet screwdrivers handles.
>>>
>>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with
>>> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
>>> Dale Ensing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
Dale,
Try SS Torx screws, www.microfasteners.com they take a #20 6 point torx bit,
at any hardware store. Same driver as premium deck screws. You cannot strip
them.
Mike H
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 2:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
> Dale and others,
>
> I bought some SS 8X32 round or button head screws that had the annoying
> habit of stripping out during installation.
> The Allen wrench key socket size was 'about' 3/32" ..(Its been a while)
> ;-)
>
> Later I bought a box of SS 8X32 "Allen head' screws. These required an
> Allen head socket wrench size of 'about' 3/16" and are plenty strong
> enough to be used in places such as the fuel tanks etc.
> I have yet to strip out one of these Allen head screws even when being
> deliberately abusive during a test to see what they could take.
> They have been holding back fuel for a year so far and they offer far
> better access in tight quarters than their Philips head type cousins.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:21 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
>
>>
>> Kyle
>> Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws strip
>> out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where there
>> other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex socket
>> vs. the Phillips.
>> Dale
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Just another data point...
>>>
>>> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare of
>>> a time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as
>>> replacements for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the
>>> heads (Allen Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
>>>
>>> KB
>>
>>>>
>>>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
>>>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my
>>>> opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2.
>>>> The bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which
>>>> makes a sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if
>>>> you need to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is
>>>> much easier to do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of the very
>>>> small right angle ratchet screwdrivers handles.
>>>>
>>>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with
>>>> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
>>>> Dale Ensing
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kent" <jakent(at)unison.ie> |
If the asi is off by the same arc segment over the entire range, the pointer
shaft gear may have jumped a few cogs. You could try removing the pointer
and replacing it in the correct position and then check the calibration.
The pointer should pop off if you put a piece of cloth/cardboard at each
September 18, 2007 - October 10, 2007
RV-Archive.digest.vol-sz