RV-Archive.digest.vol-ta
October 10, 2007 - October 29, 2007
side to protect the dial and use two (padded if possible) screwdrivers, one
on each side to lever it up without putting any side load on the shaft.
Press it back in the correct position (repeat as necessary! - I have just
replaced a dial and pointer for an 'authentic' Cub asi so guess why I say
that!).
J.Kent RV-4 EI-DIY.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Epoxy not hardening |
It's called blush. Easily removed with water and a scotchbrite pad.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On 10/9/07, scott bilinski wrote:
>
>
> When ever you have a problem like this I beleive you should always call
> the manufacturer, they know better than anybody as to what is going on. I
> had the same problem on the cowl and after calling the manufacturer they
> told me that it is normal to get a film on the surface of the epoxy......I
> dont remember the reasoning (its been 5 years) to get it off I just sanded,
> yes it plugged the sand paper but I had a bunch so......
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> RV-8a
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Andrew Olech <olechap(at)comcast.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 9, 2007 7:29:28 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Epoxy not hardening
>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I'm having a problem with the epoxy (aeropoxy) I used for coating the cowl
> surface. I thinned with acetone per Van's directions, but after 4 days
> now
> (or so) it's still tacky. It feels smooth if you run your finger over it,
> but if you just touch it - it's sticky.
>
> Batch was purchased 10 mo ago (no date on container)
> Stored in 60F+
> Parts are curing in a humidity controlled environment, 70-75F
> Epoxy worked ok 3 months ago
> Mixed by weight on postal scale
>
> That said, I think I figured it out... but check me. A few of my
> colleagues
> mentioned that my hardener might be the problem and that it needs
> stirring.
> I opened the can and it had crystallized slightly. I suppose if I read
> the
> side of the can in CAPS where it says "MAY CRYSTALLIZE IN STORAGE" that I
> would have checked earlier. My questions are:
>
> 1. Since I mixed a few batches without homogeneous hardener, would the
> mixed remainder be of the wrong constituents and should I just throw it
> out?
> I'm not planning on using this stuff for anything flight critical or
> structural. Perhaps I need to heat the hardener to re-mix it correctly?
>
> 2. How can I remove the sticky crap off the cowling so I can start over,
> or
> is there something I can do to cure it? Sanding just gums up the
> sandpaper
> and acetone just made it stickier. I tried a small corner of MEK, but
> wonder if I'll hurt the prepreg substrate.
>
> Any suggestions? All comments will be appreciated.
>
> -Andy
>
>
> Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.
> http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
I flew from Fayetteville ar to Columbus Oh and back fior the mustang
thing, and calculated my gas burn, first since I put in the newer
O-320. it was burning 9+ at 2400 and 10 at 2500. old engine burning a
gal less. I lean aressivly, the old way I learned, no gauges. I put the
orig carb on the new engine. so I am baffled as to why gs burn has
increased. Both engines are 150hp. Any Ideas? Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Patterson" <kbob(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: static port & altimeter error |
My static ports were so far off I have had ATC ask me to turn off the
altitude reporting on my transponder. Investigation showed the convex
'dome' of the Vans pop rivet was causing a vacuum as the air passed over. I
ground the rivet head flat (on a painted plane!) and the error went away.
Use a GPS to see what your 'true' elevation is vs. the altimeter. If the
altimeter reads high, consider this fix.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A N716K
PHX, AZ 185 hrs
From: "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)cebridge.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Altimeter error - ASI question
Doug,
That one has to go to the shop. I can say though, airspeed indicator errors
are generally in the Pitot/Static system. The main trouble spot seems to be
the Static Port position and height above the surrounding surface. There are
some very elegant solutions available for static ports, but in my opinion
they are just a fancy way to terminate the static tubing at skin level. A
cheap pop rivet with enough length to install the tubing on and a washer
placed between it and the head of the gun when it is installed has worked
for me many times. The washer is to make the rivet head flat and without the
slight oval shape they normally have.
John D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
Good point Jim. The round and button head screws have a much smaller hex
socket relative to the screw size than do the Allen heads (which is what I
was suggesting and used on my tanks).
Dale
> Dale and others,
>
> I bought some SS 8X32 round or button head screws that had the annoying
> habit of stripping out during installation.
> The Allen wrench key socket size was 'about' 3/32" ..(Its been a while)
> ;-)
>
> Later I bought a box of SS 8X32 "Allen head' screws. These required an
> Allen head socket wrench size of 'about' 3/16" and are plenty strong
> enough to be used in places such as the fuel tanks etc.
> I have yet to strip out one of these Allen head screws even when being
> deliberately abusive during a test to see what they could take.
> They have been holding back fuel for a year so far and they offer far
> better access in tight quarters than their Philips head type cousins.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
>
>>
>> Kyle
>> Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws strip
>> out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where there
>> other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex socket
>> vs. the Phillips.
>> Dale
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Just another data point...
>>>
>>> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare of
>>> a time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as
>>> replacements for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the
>>> heads (Allen Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
>>>
>>> KB
>>
>>>>
>>>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
>>>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In my
>>>> opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws. 2.
>>>> The bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut which
>>>> makes a sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3. And, if
>>>> you need to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on, it is
>>>> much easier to do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of the very
>>>> small right angle ratchet screwdrivers handles.
>>>>
>>>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out with
>>>> the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very simple.
>>>> Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: higher gas burn |
Just a WAG Charlie, but differences in the intake path (new Vs old) may
change the 'lean point' so you're not able to lean as much on the new
installation.
Linn
Charles Heathco wrote:
> I flew from Fayetteville ar to Columbus Oh and back fior the mustang
> thing, and calculated my gas burn, first since I put in the newer
> O-320. it was burning 9+ at 2400 and 10 at 2500. old engine burning a
> gal less. I lean aressivly, the old way I learned, no gauges. I put
> the orig carb on the new engine. so I am baffled as to why gs burn has
> increased. Both engines are 150hp. Any Ideas? Charlie Heathco
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
I have never had any problems stripping the sockets on Allen head cap
screws. Matter of fact- I run a Allen head cap screw into new plate nuts to
establish a "thread" before inserting Phillips head screws to reduce the
wear on the Phillips head.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 2:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
>
> Dale,
> Try SS Torx screws, www.microfasteners.com they take a #20 6 point torx
> bit, at any hardware store. Same driver as premium deck screws. You
> cannot strip them.
> Mike H
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 2:03 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
>
>>
>> Dale and others,
>>
>> I bought some SS 8X32 round or button head screws that had the annoying
>> habit of stripping out during installation.
>> The Allen wrench key socket size was 'about' 3/32" ..(Its been a while)
>> ;-)
>>
>> Later I bought a box of SS 8X32 "Allen head' screws. These required an
>> Allen head socket wrench size of 'about' 3/16" and are plenty strong
>> enough to be used in places such as the fuel tanks etc.
>> I have yet to strip out one of these Allen head screws even when being
>> deliberately abusive during a test to see what they could take.
>> They have been holding back fuel for a year so far and they offer far
>> better access in tight quarters than their Philips head type cousins.
>>
>> Jim in Kelowna
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:21 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Kyle
>>> Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws
>>> strip out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where
>>> there other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex
>>> socket vs. the Phillips.
>>> Dale
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Just another data point...
>>>>
>>>> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare
>>>> of a time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as
>>>> replacements for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the
>>>> heads (Allen Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
>>>>
>>>> KB
>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
>>>>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In
>>>>> my opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws.
>>>>> 2. The bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut
>>>>> which makes a sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3.
>>>>> And, if you need to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on,
>>>>> it is much easier to do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of
>>>>> the very small right angle ratchet screwdrivers handles.
>>>>>
>>>>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out
>>>>> with the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very
>>>>> simple.
>>>>> Dale Ensing
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Property Tax Appeal |
On 4:47 2007-10-10 Dana Overall wrote:
> That's what I did. My airplane is a DO-7. Nothing for the tax
> people to compare.
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
If you're calling it an RV-7 in your signature, posting many, many messages
with that same signature over the years to a public list, and discussing
all of the things you did on "your -7", it's pretty clear that the plane is
fundamentally an RV-7. If you're only calling it a DO-7 for the purposes
of tax evasion, i'd think the tax man would have a pretty easy time of
raking you over the coals for it.
I know the probability is vanishingly low, but occasionally Tax people do
check on these things... If they get it in their mind that you're trying to
evade taxes, they'll look everywhere to prove it.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: higher gas burn |
How many hours are on the new engine so far?
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Heathco
To: rv-list
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 6:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: higher gas burn
I flew from Fayetteville ar to Columbus Oh and back fior the mustang
thing, and calculated my gas burn, first since I put in the newer
O-320. it was burning 9+ at 2400 and 10 at 2500. old engine burning a
gal less. I lean aressivly, the old way I learned, no gauges. I put the
orig carb on the new engine. so I am baffled as to why gs burn has
increased. Both engines are 150hp. Any Ideas? Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: static port & altimeter error |
How would ATC know your static system is not accurate? All they see is the altitude
reported from your transponder, which should be that which is sensed at
the static ports. They have no way to compare it against anything else.
GPS altitude is not the same thing as barometric altitude. There are many valid
reasons why GPS altitude might differ by several hundred feet from barometric
altitude, yet both could be correct (just as TAS may differ greatly from ground
speed, yet both are correct, as they are measuring different things). GPS
altitude is only the same as barometric altitude on the extremely rare day where
the atmosphere perfectly matches a standard atmosphere.
Kevin Horton
"Kelly Patterson" wrote:
>
> My static ports were so far off I have had ATC ask me to turn off the
> altitude reporting on my transponder. Investigation showed the convex
> 'dome' of the Vans pop rivet was causing a vacuum as the air passed over. I
> ground the rivet head flat (on a painted plane!) and the error went away.
>
> Use a GPS to see what your 'true' elevation is vs. the altimeter. If the
> altimeter reads high, consider this fix.
>
> Kelly Patterson
> RV-6A N716K
> PHX, AZ 185 hrs
>
>
> From: "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)cebridge.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Altimeter error - ASI question
>
>
> Doug,
>
> That one has to go to the shop. I can say though, airspeed indicator errors
> are generally in the Pitot/Static system. The main trouble spot seems to be
> the Static Port position and height above the surrounding surface. There are
> some very elegant solutions available for static ports, but in my opinion
> they are just a fancy way to terminate the static tubing at skin level. A
> cheap pop rivet with enough length to install the tubing on and a washer
> placed between it and the head of the gun when it is installed has worked
> for me many times. The washer is to make the rivet head flat and without the
> slight oval shape they normally have.
>
> John D.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender |
Hi Dale,
I to have often used the Allen head cap screws breaking in new plate nut
threads.
Way back when ordering tools etc. I bought a small container of Beolube from
Avery tools. I have used this product on every screw in my 6-A. It
conditions the plate-nut threads increasing their overall utility without
unduly reducing the plate-nut's grip .
I have used this product as suggested as a cutting agent when drilling holes
with the drill press and the lathe.
I have loaned out the small plastic tube of soft waxy soapstone like Beolube
to others and still have about two thirds of the original container left.
A must have product for me.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 6:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
> I have never had any problems stripping the sockets on Allen head cap
> screws. Matter of fact- I run a Allen head cap screw into new plate nuts
> to establish a "thread" before inserting Phillips head screws to reduce
> the wear on the Phillips head.
> Dale
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 2:30 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>
>
>>
>>
>> Dale,
>> Try SS Torx screws, www.microfasteners.com they take a #20 6 point torx
>> bit, at any hardware store. Same driver as premium deck screws. You
>> cannot strip them.
>> Mike H
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
>> To:
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 2:03 AM
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Dale and others,
>>>
>>> I bought some SS 8X32 round or button head screws that had the annoying
>>> habit of stripping out during installation.
>>> The Allen wrench key socket size was 'about' 3/32" ..(Its been a while)
>>> ;-)
>>>
>>> Later I bought a box of SS 8X32 "Allen head' screws. These required an
>>> Allen head socket wrench size of 'about' 3/16" and are plenty strong
>>> enough to be used in places such as the fuel tanks etc.
>>> I have yet to strip out one of these Allen head screws even when being
>>> deliberately abusive during a test to see what they could take.
>>> They have been holding back fuel for a year so far and they offer far
>>> better access in tight quarters than their Philips head type cousins.
>>>
>>> Jim in Kelowna
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
>>> To:
>>> Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:21 PM
>>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing fuel tank inspection plate & sender
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Kyle
>>>> Was wondering.....did the socket heads of the Allen head cap screws
>>>> strip out because of the initial torque when first installed? Or, where
>>>> there other factors? It is easy to over torque them because of the hex
>>>> socket vs. the Phillips.
>>>> Dale
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Just another data point...
>>>>>
>>>>> When I performed the work for the service bulletin, I had a nightmare
>>>>> of a time with the Stainless Steel fasteners I planned to use as
>>>>> replacements for the Phillips screws. I stripped out several of the
>>>>> heads (Allen Wrench type) before I went back to the Phillips screws.
>>>>>
>>>>> KB
>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You might consider using SS Allen head cap screws on the inspection
>>>>>> plates and the sender mounts in lieu of the Phillips head screws. In
>>>>>> my opinion; 1. They make it easier to more evenly torque the screws.
>>>>>> 2. The bottom of the head of the cap screws have a slight undercut
>>>>>> which makes a sealing edge out at the periphery of the screw head. 3.
>>>>>> And, if you need to remove or re-torque the screws with the wing on,
>>>>>> it is much easier to do with a short Allen wrench segment in one of
>>>>>> the very small right angle ratchet screwdrivers handles.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I had done my 6A tanks with the cap screws and when Van's came out
>>>>>> with the SB, getting the screws out and reinstalling them was very
>>>>>> simple.
>>>>>> Dale Ensing
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: static port & altimeter error |
Wouldn't ATC know if they assigned an altitude such as 6,500 feet and
the pilot of his RV flew at 6,500 feet according to his altimeter, but
his encoder was reporting 6,000 or 7,000 feet?
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>How would ATC know your static system is not accurate? All they see is the altitude
reported from your transponder, which should be that which is sensed at
the static ports. They have no way to compare it against anything else.
>
>GPS altitude is not the same thing as barometric altitude. There are many valid
reasons why GPS altitude might differ by several hundred feet from barometric
altitude, yet both could be correct (just as TAS may differ greatly from ground
speed, yet both are correct, as they are measuring different things). GPS
altitude is only the same as barometric altitude on the extremely rare day where
the atmosphere perfectly matches a standard atmosphere.
>
>Kevin Horton
>
>"Kelly Patterson" wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>My static ports were so far off I have had ATC ask me to turn off the
>>altitude reporting on my transponder. Investigation showed the convex
>>'dome' of the Vans pop rivet was causing a vacuum as the air passed over. I
>>ground the rivet head flat (on a painted plane!) and the error went away.
>>
>>Use a GPS to see what your 'true' elevation is vs. the altimeter. If the
>>altimeter reads high, consider this fix.
>>
>>Kelly Patterson
>>RV-6A N716K
>>PHX, AZ 185 hrs
>>
>>
>>From: "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)cebridge.net>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Altimeter error - ASI question
>>
>>
>>Doug,
>>
>> That one has to go to the shop. I can say though, airspeed indicator errors
>>are generally in the Pitot/Static system. The main trouble spot seems to be
>>the Static Port position and height above the surrounding surface. There are
>>some very elegant solutions available for static ports, but in my opinion
>>they are just a fancy way to terminate the static tubing at skin level. A
>>cheap pop rivet with enough length to install the tubing on and a washer
>>placed between it and the head of the gun when it is installed has worked
>>for me many times. The washer is to make the rivet head flat and without the
>>slight oval shape they normally have.
>>
>>John D.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: higher gas burn |
"Charles Heathco" wrote:
> I flew from Fayetteville ar to Columbus Oh and back fior the mustang thing, and
calculated my gas burn, first since I put in the newer O-320. it was burning
9+ at 2400 and 10 at 2500. old engine burning a gal less. I lean aressivly,
the old way I learned, no gauges. I put the orig carb on the new engine. so I
am baffled as to why gs burn has increased. Both engines are 150hp. Any Ideas?
Charlie Heathco
Is it possible that the new engine is making more power than the old one? Has
your cruise speed changed at all? Do you have the same prop as before?
Kevin Horton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: static port & altimeter error |
But, if his altimeter was connected to the same static source as the encoder (as
it should), a servicable altimeter should read the same as the encoder is reporting
(ignoring the effect of altimeter setting, which is accounted for by ATC).
It wouldn't matter if a bad static port gave a 1000 ft error - both the
altimeter and the encoder would have the same error. If the altimeter and encoder
are connected to the same source, and they say different things, then one
of them is unserviceable, or there is a large static leak between the two. The
problem cannot be the static source.
Kevin
Scott wrote:
>
> Wouldn't ATC know if they assigned an altitude such as 6,500 feet and
> the pilot of his RV flew at 6,500 feet according to his altimeter, but
> his encoder was reporting 6,000 or 7,000 feet?
>
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
>
>
>
> Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> >
> >How would ATC know your static system is not accurate? All they see is the
altitude reported from your transponder, which should be that which is sensed
at the static ports. They have no way to compare it against anything else.
> >
> >GPS altitude is not the same thing as barometric altitude. There are many valid
reasons why GPS altitude might differ by several hundred feet from barometric
altitude, yet both could be correct (just as TAS may differ greatly from
ground speed, yet both are correct, as they are measuring different things).
GPS altitude is only the same as barometric altitude on the extremely rare day
where the atmosphere perfectly matches a standard atmosphere.
> >
> >Kevin Horton
> >
> >"Kelly Patterson" wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>My static ports were so far off I have had ATC ask me to turn off the
> >>altitude reporting on my transponder. Investigation showed the convex
> >>'dome' of the Vans pop rivet was causing a vacuum as the air passed over.
I
> >>ground the rivet head flat (on a painted plane!) and the error went away.
> >>
> >>Use a GPS to see what your 'true' elevation is vs. the altimeter. If the
> >>altimeter reads high, consider this fix.
> >>
> >>Kelly Patterson
> >>RV-6A N716K
> >>PHX, AZ 185 hrs
> >>
> >>
> >>From: "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)cebridge.net>
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Altimeter error - ASI question
> >>
> >>
> >>Doug,
> >>
> >> That one has to go to the shop. I can say though, airspeed indicator errors
> >>are generally in the Pitot/Static system. The main trouble spot seems to be
> >>the Static Port position and height above the surrounding surface. There are
> >>some very elegant solutions available for static ports, but in my opinion
> >>they are just a fancy way to terminate the static tubing at skin level. A
> >>cheap pop rivet with enough length to install the tubing on and a washer
> >>placed between it and the head of the gun when it is installed has worked
> >>for me many times. The washer is to make the rivet head flat and without the
> >>slight oval shape they normally have.
> >>
> >>John D.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ASI question |
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
This just doesn't seem right. I find it difficult to believe an
instrument like this has no better way for adjusting cal.
Looking into the pitot port I see a slotted collar (nut?) and in the
static port what might be a small lever. I am thinking these may be
part of an adjustment mechanism.
Any instrument fitters/mechanics out there?
Doug Gray
> If the asi is off by the same arc segment over the entire range, the
> pointer
> shaft gear may have jumped a few cogs. You could try removing the
> pointer
> and replacing it in the correct position and then check the
> calibration.
> The pointer should pop off if you put a piece of cloth/cardboard at
> each
> side to protect the dial and use two (padded if possible)
> screwdrivers, one
> on each side to lever it up without putting any side load on the
> shaft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: static port & altimeter error |
I agree with that...I was making an assumption that the encoder OR the
altimeter was bad. The encoder could have one of the output pins open
or shorted to ground permanently giving a false number to the
transponder or the altimeter needs to be serviced...
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>But, if his altimeter was connected to the same static source as the encoder (as
it should), a servicable altimeter should read the same as the encoder is reporting
(ignoring the effect of altimeter setting, which is accounted for by
ATC). It wouldn't matter if a bad static port gave a 1000 ft error - both the
altimeter and the encoder would have the same error. If the altimeter and encoder
are connected to the same source, and they say different things, then one
of them is unserviceable, or there is a large static leak between the two.
The problem cannot be the static source.
>
>Kevin
>
>Scott wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Wouldn't ATC know if they assigned an altitude such as 6,500 feet and
>>the pilot of his RV flew at 6,500 feet according to his altimeter, but
>>his encoder was reporting 6,000 or 7,000 feet?
>>
>>Scott
>>http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
>>Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
>>Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
>>
>>
>>
>>Kevin Horton wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>How would ATC know your static system is not accurate? All they see is the
altitude reported from your transponder, which should be that which is sensed
at the static ports. They have no way to compare it against anything else.
>>>
>>>GPS altitude is not the same thing as barometric altitude. There are many valid
reasons why GPS altitude might differ by several hundred feet from barometric
altitude, yet both could be correct (just as TAS may differ greatly from
ground speed, yet both are correct, as they are measuring different things).
GPS altitude is only the same as barometric altitude on the extremely rare day
where the atmosphere perfectly matches a standard atmosphere.
>>>
>>>Kevin Horton
>>>
>>>"Kelly Patterson" wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>My static ports were so far off I have had ATC ask me to turn off the
>>>>altitude reporting on my transponder. Investigation showed the convex
>>>>'dome' of the Vans pop rivet was causing a vacuum as the air passed over.
I
>>>>ground the rivet head flat (on a painted plane!) and the error went away.
>>>>
>>>>Use a GPS to see what your 'true' elevation is vs. the altimeter. If the
>>>>altimeter reads high, consider this fix.
>>>>
>>>>Kelly Patterson
>>>>RV-6A N716K
>>>>PHX, AZ 185 hrs
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>From: "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)cebridge.net>
>>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Altimeter error - ASI question
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Doug,
>>>>
>>>>That one has to go to the shop. I can say though, airspeed indicator errors
>>>>are generally in the Pitot/Static system. The main trouble spot seems to be
>>>>the Static Port position and height above the surrounding surface. There are
>>>>some very elegant solutions available for static ports, but in my opinion
>>>>they are just a fancy way to terminate the static tubing at skin level. A
>>>>cheap pop rivet with enough length to install the tubing on and a washer
>>>>placed between it and the head of the gun when it is installed has worked
>>>>for me many times. The washer is to make the rivet head flat and without the
>>>>slight oval shape they normally have.
>>>>
>>>>John D.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fw: New trim servo controller |
| From: | "=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net> |
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Newman" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 13:19:05
To:"Matronics list"
Subject: New trim servo controller
Fellow RV builders,
I would like to make you all aware of a new product I am introducing to the
homebuilt community.
We have developed a trim servo controller that eliminates the problems of
run-away trim and inoperative trim conditions.
Our new servo controller is called Safety-Trim and it provides speed control,
direction control, emergency reversing and time limited motion of standard
trim servos, such as the Ray Allen series.
We've been flying Safety-Trim in our Glastar and recently introduced it at
a local EAA fly-in in Toms River, NJ. 1 and 2 axis units are now available.
Please visit. www.tcwtech.com for all the details.
Please contact me off list at: rnewman(at)tcwtech.com
Best regards,
Bob Newman
RV-10. #40176
Glastar N99RN
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | VHB Tape vs Rivets |
I've been told first hand by an experienced RV4 builder in California that
he used VHB tape to stick the stiffeners to the inside of his elevators. He
had prior experience with it and has flown it many hours since. No
problems.
We use it here and there for non-structural items and it works great, but I
have not done long-term testing.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris W
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 1:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: VHB Tape vs Rivets
I have recently seen an episode of "Modern Marvels" on the history channel
called "Sticky Stuff". One of the things they had on that show, is this
tape called VHB tape made by 3M. In a test they repeatedly impacted a 16 lb
bowling ball against 2 sheets of aluminum bonded with VHB tape till it
failed, then they did the same test with the 2 sheets of aluminum riveted
together. Since this was 3M doing the test, obviously there tape performed
better. However based on the fact that bowling balls are between 8.5 and
8.6" in diameter, it appears as they only had a rivet every 4 inches. I
would be really curious to see how the tape compared to doing it with the
appropriate number of rivets.
Anyone want to try the test? Below is a link to a youtube video of the
demonstration.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=ZhKreIqU_R4
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
"Protect your digital freedom and privacy, eliminate DRM, learn more at
http://www.defectivebydesign.org/what_is_drm"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: static port & altimeter error |
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
My alt encoder has a tag that reads:
"Replacement or re-calibration of the altimeter used for flight requires
re-calibration of the Altitude Encoder"
Doug Gray
>
> I agree with that...I was making an assumption that the encoder OR the
> altimeter was bad. The encoder could have one of the output pins open
> or shorted to ground permanently giving a false number to the
> transponder or the altimeter needs to be serviced...
>
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
>
>
>
> Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> >
> >But, if his altimeter was connected to the same static source as the encoder
(as it should), a servicable altimeter should read the same as the encoder is
reporting (ignoring the effect of altimeter setting, which is accounted for by
ATC). It wouldn't matter if a bad static port gave a 1000 ft error - both the
altimeter and the encoder would have the same error. If the altimeter and
encoder are connected to the same source, and they say different things, then
one of them is unserviceable, or there is a large static leak between the two.
The problem cannot be the static source.
> >
> >Kevin
> >
> >Scott wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Wouldn't ATC know if they assigned an altitude such as 6,500 feet and
> >>the pilot of his RV flew at 6,500 feet according to his altimeter, but
> >>his encoder was reporting 6,000 or 7,000 feet?
> >>
> >>Scott
> >>http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> >>Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> >>Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Kevin Horton wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>How would ATC know your static system is not accurate? All they see is the
altitude reported from your transponder, which should be that which is sensed
at the static ports. They have no way to compare it against anything else.
> >>>
> >>>GPS altitude is not the same thing as barometric altitude. There are many
valid reasons why GPS altitude might differ by several hundred feet from barometric
altitude, yet both could be correct (just as TAS may differ greatly from
ground speed, yet both are correct, as they are measuring different things).
GPS altitude is only the same as barometric altitude on the extremely rare day
where the atmosphere perfectly matches a standard atmosphere.
> >>>
> >>>Kevin Horton
> >>>
> >>>"Kelly Patterson" wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>>My static ports were so far off I have had ATC ask me to turn off the
> >>>>altitude reporting on my transponder. Investigation showed the convex
> >>>>'dome' of the Vans pop rivet was causing a vacuum as the air passed over.
I
> >>>>ground the rivet head flat (on a painted plane!) and the error went away.
> >>>>
> >>>>Use a GPS to see what your 'true' elevation is vs. the altimeter. If the
> >>>>altimeter reads high, consider this fix.
> >>>>
> >>>>Kelly Patterson
> >>>>RV-6A N716K
> >>>>PHX, AZ 185 hrs
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>From: "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)cebridge.net>
> >>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Altimeter error - ASI question
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>Doug,
> >>>>
> >>>>That one has to go to the shop. I can say though, airspeed indicator errors
> >>>>are generally in the Pitot/Static system. The main trouble spot seems to
be
> >>>>the Static Port position and height above the surrounding surface. There
are
> >>>>some very elegant solutions available for static ports, but in my opinion
> >>>>they are just a fancy way to terminate the static tubing at skin level. A
> >>>>cheap pop rivet with enough length to install the tubing on and a washer
> >>>>placed between it and the head of the gun when it is installed has worked
> >>>>for me many times. The washer is to make the rivet head flat and without
the
> >>>>slight oval shape they normally have.
> >>>>
> >>>>John D.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Replys about my gas burn |
Tnx for replys, Im on digest so get it onc3 a day. engine is an E2C and
old engine E2A, Melinium jugs on newer one, I had to have #4 OH with
oly 171 hrs on it. So I know they are not high comp jugs. I now have 200
hrs on this engine. The carb on this engine is off the old engine, and
it was OH about 80 hrs ago while on old engine.
All hockups, intakes etc are the same, Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Jef,
I also suggest that you take a small piece of scrap plexi (from the excess
cut off thecanopy) and try the differnt methods first.
Regards,
Chuck Rowbotham
From: n616tb(at)btsapps.comTo: rv-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV-List: cutt
ing canopyDate: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 12:54:44 -0500
Hi Chuck,
I would question just one thing you mentioned here. The problem with a reg
ular drill bit on plexi is the amount of twist in the bit will allow it to
try to pull through the plexi causing a crack. You mentioned using a new #
40 bit, but in reality I think you are better off with a dull one. I used
a regular =93dull=94 bit to drill my initial holes in the canopy. Then I
used the plexi bits to open them up to the size I needed.
Anyway, I could be wrong but it seems this is how I remember how it goes.
Tim
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Charles RowbothamSent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 12:
27 PMTo: rv-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV-List: cutting canopy
Jef, We used a cut off disc in Dremel tool but we did it free hand. One no
te of caution - allow some extra overhang (beyound the line on the canopy).
The overhang will not interfere with fitting the canopy to the frame or dr
illing your holes. After you have fitted the canopy canopy, drilled your ho
les and clecoed the canopy to the fame you can mark the excess for removal.
BTW we tried the plexiglass drill bits and had much better results but dri
lling the initial hole with anew #40 drill bit and then opening up the hole
with the small Uni-Bit. We did have the garage at 60 degrees C (85 degress
F) for 24 hours before we drilled the canopy holes. Best Wishes, Chuck & D
ave RowbothamRV-8A
From: jef.vervoortw(at)telenet.beTo: rv-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV-List: cu
tting canopyDate: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 17:14:07 +0200
Not very long ago there was an article in EAA-SPORTAVIATION that explained
and suggested to make the cut using a cutting bit in a Dremel tool with a c
utting guide.
I think it was written by an RV builder.
I cannot find the article anymore.
Anyone know the details, or has experience with this method ? Should you re
commend it?
Jef Vervoort 91031; Belgium.
Boo! Scare awnews' target='_new'>Try now!
_________________________________________________________________
!
ilnews
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: was static port & altimeter error, now radar services |
Dale-
RE:
>In the US many or most approach control areas have radar altitude from their
>ground system, independent of your on board encoder. Enroute seems to be a
>different story.
I've not heard of such capability before so I called our friendly local, and brand-new
high tech, approach facility here in Indy to ask them about radar derived
altitude. The answer was no, all they have is mode C capability.
As someone else commented, military facilities used to have PAR that could esentially
derive altitude along a specific range, but I'm not sure those facilities
are up and running any more.
Regardz-
gm
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BRUCE GRAY <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
Good Morning,
I was surpose to check on a p/n to have it omitted from the finishing kit l
ast night but didn't. Family Stuff. Anyway can someone check their prints a
nd fwd me the p/n's for these as well as the bolt size that attach them to
the steel gear.
I already have them on hand when I drilled in the gear legs.
TIA,
Bruce Gray
RV8 Fuse
Wiring and stuff/Finishing on its way
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!- Play Star Shuffle:- the word scramble
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oc
t
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George, Neal E Capt MIL USAF 605TES/TSI" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil> |
Gentlemen -
I'm planning a trip to Hanscom AFB (Boston area) early next week.
Any recommendations on a place to tie down and buy fuel?
Any place to stay away from?
Neal George
CherokeeJet N9586J
850-218-4838
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy E. Cone" <tcone1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Axle P/N's |
axel part numbers are U-801L and U-801R
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: BRUCE GRAY
To: Matronics
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 6:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Axle P/N's
Good Morning,
I was surpose to check on a p/n to have it omitted from the finishing
kit last night but didn't. Family Stuff. Anyway can someone check their
prints and fwd me the p/n's for these as well as the bolt size that
attach them to the steel gear.
I already have them on hand when I drilled in the gear legs.
TIA,
Bruce Gray
RV8 Fuse
Wiring and stuff/Finishing on its way
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word scramble
challenge with star power. Play Now!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aeroncadoc(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: TDY to Boston |
Norwood seems to be the most GA friendly spot in the Boston area, at least the
few times I've been into there. Can't you get permission to fly into the base?
It's only a ton of forms filled out a year in advance.
Henry h.
KPAE N252MK
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "George, Neal E Capt MIL USAF 605TES/TSI" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
Gentlemen -
I'm planning a trip to Hanscom AFB (Boston area) early next week.
Any recommendations on a place to tie down and buy fuel?
Any place to stay away from?
Neal George
CherokeeJet N9586J
850-218-4838
Norwood seems to be the most GA friendly spot in the Boston area, at least
the few times I've been into there. Can't you get permission to fly into
the base? It's only a ton of forms filled out a year in advance.
Henry h.
KPAE N252MK
Gentlemen -
I'm planning a trip to Hanscom AFB (Boston area) early
next week.
Any recommendations on
a place to tie down and buy fuel?
Any place
to stay away from?
Neal George
CherokeeJet
N9586J
850-218-4838
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BRUCE GRAY <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
Thanks Tim!
Bruce G.
From: tcone1(at)comcast.netTo: rv-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV-List: RV8
Axle P/N'sDate: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 07:54:08 -0700
axel part numbers are U-801L and U-801R
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: BRUCE GRAY
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 6:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Axle P/N's
Good Morning,I was surpose to check on a p/n to have it omitted from the fi
nishing kit last night but didn't. Family Stuff. Anyway can someone check t
heir prints and fwd me the p/n's for these as well as the bolt size that at
tach them to the steel gear.I already have them on hand when I drilled in t
he gear legs. TIA,Bruce GrayRV8 FuseWiring and stuff/Finishing on its way
Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word scramble chal
lenge with star power. Play Now!
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
_________________________________________________________________
!
ilnews
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Helller <marty_away(at)hotmail.com> |
Norwood is nice, but on the south side of the city....read... traffic issue
s on 128....
Consider airports on south edge of New Hampshire....
Marty
RV-7 (fitting interior systems)
From: aeroncadoc(at)comcast.netTo: rv-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV-List:
TDY to BostonDate: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 15:37:53 +0000
Norwood seems to be the most GA friendly spot in the Boston area, at least
the few times I've been into there. Can't you get permission to fly into t
he base? It's only a ton of forms filled out a year in advance.
Henry h.
KPAE N252MK
-------------- Original message -------------- From: "George, Neal E Capt M
IL USAF 605TES/TSI"
Gentlemen -
I'm planning a trip to Hanscom AFB (Boston area) early next week. Any reco
mmendations on a place to tie down and buy fuel? Any place to stay away fro
m?
Neal George CherokeeJet N9586J 850-218-4838
_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Caf=E9. Stop
by today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Oc
tWLtagline
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List - Drilling plexiglas |
The same abrasive disc you use for cutting the plex can be used to modify
standard drill bits for safe drilling of the holes. Spin the disc full speed
with it's axis perpendicular to the drill axis (SIDE OF DISC PARALLEL TO DRILL
AXIS). Use the side of the abrasive disc to reduce the rake angle of the drill
bit to zero for about 1/16 back of the cutting edge. this you can do in less
than a minute. This will give a rake angle of approx. zero and will cut plex
with no breakouts. You will find this to be much easier to do than reading
this!
Paul S. Petersen, RV6A nearly done with son Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Replys about my gas burn |
>Subject: RV-List: Replys about my gas burn
>
But is it fixed or CS?
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: was static port & altimeter error, now radar services |
>
>As someone else commented, military facilities used to have PAR that could esentially
>derive altitude along a specific range, but I'm not sure those facilities
>are up and running any more.
I got in touch w/ some friends and learned that GCA is increasingly rare in the
US,but is still used elsewhere in the world,and that civil A/C do use these approaches.
FWIW-
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TDY to Boston |
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
[quote="Neal.George(at)hurlburt.a"]Gentlemen -
I'm planning a trip to Hanscom AFB (Boston area) early next week.
Any recommendations on a place to tie down and buy fuel?
Any place to stay away from?
Neal George
CherokeeJet N9586J
850-218-4838
> [b]
Hi Neal. I assume that if your business is at Hanscom, you can just land at Hanscom,
can't you? It's not exclusively an AFB; it's a regional airport, too. (I
think Goulian flies out of there, doesn't he?) Besides, you're in the military
so I doubt it'd be an issue anyway.
I assume that some RV builder there would be more than happy to have you stay at
their house.
Anyone?
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139620#139620
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merlin" <phil.merlin(at)skynet.be> |
Hello,
As I'm installing a D100, I need to put a backup ASI and altimeter. Van's
sells a 2"1/4 airspeed indicator, but no altimeter of that size. Spruce
doesn't sell that either, but a single pointer one.
Does someone know a vendor providing a 2"1/4 dual-pointer altimeter ?
As always, thanks to the community :-)
Philippe
Starting fuselage and instrument panel
RV9A - Brussels - Belgium
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lamar Lawson" <lamar(at)takeflighttexas.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2"1/4 Altimeter |
Hate to tell you this but if you do not want the use the 2 1/4 UMA
spruce sells, the next step is $700-$800 US. i opted for the $200 UMA.
this comes up from time to time so you should be able to find lots of
info in the achives.
good luck!
Lamar - RV7A
----- Original Message -----
From: Merlin
To: 'RV-List Digest Server'
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 2:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: 2"1/4 Altimeter
Hello,
As I'm installing a D100, I need to put a backup ASI and altimeter.
Van's sells a 2"1/4 airspeed indicator, but no altimeter of that size.
Spruce doesn't sell that either, but a single pointer one.
Does someone know a vendor providing a 2"1/4 dual-pointer altimeter ?
As always, thanks to the community :-)
Philippe
Starting fuselage and instrument panel
RV9A - Brussels - Belgium
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2"1/4 Altimeter |
I got one for my F1 from Stein at Steinair.
Danny Melnik
F1 #25
Melbourne (FL) Rocket Factory
-----Original Message-----
From: Merlin <phil.merlin(at)skynet.be>
Sent: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 3:38 pm
Subject: RV-List: 2"1/4 Altimeter
Hello,
?
As I'm installing a D100, I need to put a backup ?ASI and altimeter. Van's sells
a 2"1/4 airspeed indicator, but no altimeter of that size. Spruce doesn't sell
that either, but a single pointer one.
?
Does someone know a vendor providing a 2"1/4 dual-pointer altimeter ??
?
As always, thanks to the community ?:-)
?
?
Philippe
Starting fuselage and instrument panel
RV9A - Brussels - Belgium
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
There is a 2-1/4" altimeter made by Winter that is often installed in
gliders. Check with the suppliers for gliders. If you can't find it, let me
know and I will dig an ad out of Soaring magazine. It's pretty expensive - I
think I remember about $600 or so.
I have the 2-1/4" single-needle one (not flying yet) and I don't like it.
Terry
RV-8A wiring
Seattle
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Merlin
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 12:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: 2"1/4 Altimeter
Hello,
As I'm installing a D100, I need to put a backup ASI and altimeter. Van's
sells a 2"1/4 airspeed indicator, but no altimeter of that size. Spruce
doesn't sell that either, but a single pointer one.
Does someone know a vendor providing a 2"1/4 dual-pointer altimeter ?
As always, thanks to the community :-)
Philippe
Starting fuselage and instrument panel
RV9A - Brussels - Belgium
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean Pichon <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
Hi Neal,
You can land at Hanscom AFB (BED) and tie down there. The base shares the
field with commerical and civil aviation. I used to keep my Citabria there
and made the first flights in my -4 from there. I've since heard there is
a landing fee and gas is definitely expensive there, but one or both of th
ese may not apply to you. The next closest is probably Minuteman Airfield
in Stow (9B9?), but no rental cars, nearby hotels, etc. I now keep my -4 a
t Worcester which is about an hour's drive west. Feel free to contact me d
irectly if you would like more help.
Regards,
Subject: RV-List: TDY to BostonDate: Fri, 12 Oct 2007 09:41:27 -0500From: N
eal.George(at)hurlburt.af.milTo: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Gentlemen -
I'm planning a trip to Hanscom AFB (Boston area) early next week. Any reco
mmendations on a place to tie down and buy fuel? Any place to stay away fro
m?
Neal George CherokeeJet N9586J 850-218-4838
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook ' together at last. -
Get it now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL10062
6971033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Swayze <swayze(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ProSeal - small amt.for sale |
I bought one of the tubes of ProSeal from Van's when I needed some to
do the trailing edge on my rudder. Instead of mixing it up in the
tube as directed, I dismantled the mixing apparatus and just took
some out of the tube and mixed it up manually. I was able to save
over half of it by doing it this way and not waste it.
Now that I'm working on my fuel tanks, I still have it but it's out
of date. It's not out of date by much and it's been in the
refrigerator for the last 7 months since I built my rudder, but I
don't want to take any chances with my fuel tanks.
The amount I have left would be ideal for anyone building their
rudder and at the point of doing the trailing edge. Since it's not
critical that it be in-date, it would work fine for you.
I'll be willing to give it to any builder who wants it, if you'll pay
a nominal amount for my shipping costs. I hate to throw it away.
Maybe I can save somebody a few bucks.
Bruce Swayze
RV-7A
Wings - working on fuel tanks
>With the tubes...you don't get the mess, but you pay for it with
>less flexibility on time and if you are very organized and
>efficient, I think they're a great way to go.
>
>I did buy the tube once (we're talking about the one where you mix
>it in the tube, right?) for something like $16 and I ended up
>tossing half of it away because I didn't need that much.
>
>Some people freeze their ProSeal which they say adds life to it etc.
>I cannot speak to that because while my wife is quite forgiving of
>my airplane mistress, she draws the line when reaching for an ice
>cream sandwich and getting a baggie full of ProSeal instead.
>
>--------
>Bob Collins
>St. Paul, Minn.
>Letters from Flyover Country
>http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ProSeal - small amt.for sale |
I just used some proseal I've had in the freezer that is four years old. It
set up fine and I cannot tell any difference between it and fresh stuff.
Seems to me shelf life is a good way of insuring future sales if you're in
the glue business.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: was static port & altimeter error, now radar services |
Last I knew Luke AFB had one at their Aux 1 field along with an ILS for
F-16 training. Eielson AFB in AK had one when I left their in '92 and
they would allow civil planes to fly it for practice with something like
100 ft AGL restriction flying over their runway.
Glen Matejcek wrote:
>
>
>> As someone else commented, military facilities used to have PAR that could esentially
>> derive altitude along a specific range, but I'm not sure those facilities
>> are up and running any more.
>>
>
> I got in touch w/ some friends and learned that GCA is increasingly rare in the
US,but is still used elsewhere in the world,and that civil A/C do use these
approaches.
>
> FWIW-
>
> Glen Matejcek
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Setser <setser(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TDY to Boston |
Neal,
Even though Hanscom is a civil airfield, the Air Force still has
hangars, ramp space and an Aero Club there. If you're TDY or even on
leave, you can buy avgas, tie down and/or get some hangar space cheaper
than anywhere else on the field.
I'm one of the club's CFIs, feel free to call (781 789 2768) or get in
touch via private email and I'll be glad to help.
Dave Setser
RV-7 wings
Arlington MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Gold" <andygold(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Transition training in Colorado |
I'm looking for a CFI with a full dual control RV-6, 7, or 8A in or
around Colorado who can give a couple hours of dual to a friend for both
proficiency and insurance requirements. He's a high time pilot, but
with no RV time.
Please call Andy Gold at 970 887-2194 or Mark Burg at 970 887-9776 or
write back and we can schedule at your convenience.
Thanks,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | PC-680 Performance |
Over the years, the Odyssey PC-680 has gotten very good reviews for its
small size and high cranking amps. So, about 3 years ago, I selected
one to replace a 4 year old Concorde battery.
My first Odyssey battery became weak after just under 2 years. The
vendor replaced it under warranty.
Today, my ~14 month old replacement battery barely turned the engine
over on a 80 degree day. Sure, the aircraft sat outside in 45 degree
weather last night (Thomasville GA Fly-in - a really fun one), but the
airplane had 8 hours of South Georgia sunshine to warm up, so is isn't
like the battery was chilled or anything.
To get to the point, what is the RV-list's collective experience with
this battery? I know it is light and has good cranking power when new,
but I'm interested in what sort of longevity people are seeing. Is it
lasting 1 year, 2 years, more, or less? I'd hate to go back to the
Concorde, but I'd prefer that to a battery that goes soft after less
than two years.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
On 10/13 10:07, Kyle Boatright wrote:
> To get to the point, what is the RV-list's collective experience with this
> battery? I know it is light and has good cranking power when new, but I'm
> interested in what sort of longevity people are seeing. Is it lasting 1
> year, 2 years, more, or less? I'd hate to go back to the Concorde, but
> I'd prefer that to a battery that goes soft after less than two years.
Since the battery is relatively cheap, just above $100, I replace it
at every annual. This gives me peace of mind knowing I have a fresh
battery and I now have a decent backup or something to play pass the
electrons with in the shop.
I always connect to a trickle charger after each flight just to keep
it tip-top. I've never had a battery issue now in two years. ymmv.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Painting
http://www.evorocket.com - Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | PC-680 Performance |
in 2000 i purchased a pc680 for install in my 6a before it was completed. i
used it to test and power up systems during final assembly. first flight in
2001- fast foreword to 2007, still going strong. I've left the master on
twice in its life killing it completely. it seemed to recharge without
incident. now i haven't done any discharge calculations to find out its true
capacity, but it has no problem starting the o-360 after 10 days of
inactivity. i have never used any trickle charger and don't remember having
to jump start it when it wasn't my fault. I'd say it's probably hands down
the best battery I've ever owned.( i even have one in my kids battery
powered ride on truck) I'm using a B&C alternator and lr3 regulator using
standard wet cell voltages.
Steven dinieri
iflyrv10.com
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
Over the years, the Odyssey PC-680 has gotten very good reviews for its
small size and high cranking amps. So, about 3 years ago, I selected one to
replace a 4 year old Concorde battery.
My first Odyssey battery became weak after just under 2 years. The vendor
replaced it under warranty.
Today, my ~14 month old replacement battery barely turned the engine over on
a 80 degree day. Sure, the aircraft sat outside in 45 degree weather last
night (Thomasville GA Fly-in - a really fun one), but the airplane had 8
hours of South Georgia sunshine to warm up, so is isn't like the battery was
chilled or anything.
To get to the point, what is the RV-list's collective experience with this
battery? I know it is light and has good cranking power when new, but I'm
interested in what sort of longevity people are seeing. Is it lasting 1
year, 2 years, more, or less? I'd hate to go back to the Concorde, but I'd
prefer that to a battery that goes soft after less than two years.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
I just used some 3 year old pro seal that spent most of its life in a south
Florida hangar where temps are 110 in the daytime with the doors closed
(metal Tee hangar). Believe it or not, both parts were still mixable
although I did have to punch through a rubbery film on the top of the white
stuff to get to the good stuff. So....is does have its limits but I think a
year is little on the conservative side. No, I didn't use it on fuel tanks.
____________________________Original Message ______________________________
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: ProSeal - small amt.for sale
I just used some proseal I've had in the freezer that is four years old.....
Regards,
Bob Japundza
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
Hey Walter,
I could use one of the rejects for testing. ;-)
Darrell
----- Original Message ----
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:37:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
On 10/13 10:07, Kyle Boatright wrote:
> To get to the point, what is the RV-list's collective experience with this
> battery? I know it is light and has good cranking power when new, but I'm
> interested in what sort of longevity people are seeing. Is it lasting 1
> year, 2 years, more, or less? I'd hate to go back to the Concorde, but
> I'd prefer that to a battery that goes soft after less than two years.
Since the battery is relatively cheap, just above $100, I replace it
at every annual. This gives me peace of mind knowing I have a fresh
battery and I now have a decent backup or something to play pass the
electrons with in the shop.
I always connect to a trickle charger after each flight just to keep
it tip-top. I've never had a battery issue now in two years. ymmv.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Painting
http://www.evorocket.com - Empennage
Need a vacation? Get great deals
to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.
http://travel.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
I've had my PC-680 going on 5 years. Did run it flat once with the master
left on. Didn't seem to affect it as it would had it been a lead acid battery.
I
never need to trickle charge it. Left last winter in the hangar without
flying for five months. Put the charger on to see how it was in the spring and
the charger indicated it was at full charge after 5 seconds of charge time. I
personally can't say enough good about Odyssey's products.
Pat Long
PGLong(at)aol.com
N120PL
RV 4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
The Odyssey battery in my RV6-A is 4 years old and still cranks the
0-360A1A over just like day one! I have the B&C alternator & regulator
which I feel is the key reason the battery is always ready to go.
After shutting down and attaching the BatteryMinder the green light
starts flashing within a minute.......probably not needed. I live in
Ohio and run a Reiff preheater with cylinder bands in the winter.
Tom in Ohio (10G)
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
Over the years, the Odyssey PC-680 has gotten very good reviews for
its small size and high cranking amps. So, about 3 years ago, I
selected one to replace a 4 year old Concorde battery.
My first Odyssey battery became weak after just under 2 years. The
vendor replaced it under warranty.
Today, my ~14 month old replacement battery barely turned the engine
over on a 80 degree day. Sure, the aircraft sat outside in 45 degree
weather last night (Thomasville GA Fly-in - a really fun one), but the
airplane had 8 hours of South Georgia sunshine to warm up, so is isn't
like the battery was chilled or anything.
To get to the point, what is the RV-list's collective experience with
this battery? I know it is light and has good cranking power when new,
but I'm interested in what sort of longevity people are seeing. Is it
lasting 1 year, 2 years, more, or less? I'd hate to go back to the
Concorde, but I'd prefer that to a battery that goes soft after less
than two years.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
In a message dated 10/13/2007 10:31:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
capsteve(at)adelphia.net writes:
in 2000 i purchased a pc680 for install in my 6a before it was completed. i
used it to test and power up systems during final assembly. first flight in
2001- fast foreword to 2007, still going strong. I've left the master on twice
in its life killing it completely. it seemed to recharge without incident.
==========================================================
I always put the Power Sonic two stage charger on mine when not flying
because I have a "keep alive" circuit in my am/fm radio that uses just a little
power to retain the memory. Mine last for several years each with this
treatment.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 869hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
On 10/14 5:53, Darrell Reiley wrote:
> I could use one of the rejects for testing. ;-)
I've donated all of the older ones but have one left that I use as
my tester/backup battery. If you want to wait till next July (scheduled
annual) you can have the next off the firewall.
Have only had two annuals so far and gave both to local builders.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Painting
http://www.evorocket.com - Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
| From: | lessdragprod(at)aol.com |
Hi Kyle,
I have an Odyssey battery in my RV-6A.? I was told that it needed to be charged
at 14.2 volts.? If it was charged at a lower voltage, it would gradually loose
capacity from being undercharged.
I don't have a source for the 14.2 volts.? I didn't find it on the Odyssey battery
website.? Anyone know where the correct charging voltage is documented?
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Kyle Boatright <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 7:07 pm
Subject: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
Over the years, the Odyssey PC-680 has gotten very good reviews for its small size
and high cranking amps.? So, about 3 years ago, I selected one to replace
a 4 year old Concorde battery.
?
My first Odyssey battery became weak after just under 2 years.? The vendor replaced
it under warranty.
?
Today, my ~14 month old replacement battery barely turned the engine over on a
80 degree day. Sure, the aircraft sat outside in 45 degree weather last night
(Thomasville GA Fly-in - a really fun one), but the airplane had 8 hours of South
Georgia sunshine to warm up, so is isn't like the battery was chilled or anything.
?
To get to the point, what is the RV-list's collective experience with this battery??
I know it is light and has good cranking power when new, but I'm interested
in what sort of longevity people are seeing. Is it lasting 1 year, 2 years,
more, or less?? I'd hate to go back to the Concorde, but I'd prefer that to
a battery that goes soft after less than two years.
?
KB
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
| From: | "=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net> |
I found some excellent information on charging of AGM seal lead acid batteries
on the panasonic web site. If I remeber it takes a little digging on their site,
but its there. I believe the charging voltage depends primarily on chemistry
type. (Ie sla-agm) and temperature.
-bob newman
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 14:43:22
To:rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
Hi Kyle,
I have an Odyssey battery in my RV-6A. I was told that it needed to be charged
at 14.2 volts. If it was charged at a lower voltage, it would gradually loose
capacity from being undercharged.
I don't have a source for the 14.2 volts. I didn't find it on the Odyssey battery
website. Anyone know where the correct charging voltage is documented?
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Kyle Boatright <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 7:07 pm
Subject: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
Over the years, the Odyssey PC-680 has gotten very good reviews for its small size
and high cranking amps. So, about 3 years ago, I selected one to replace a
4 year old Concorde battery.
My first Odyssey battery became weak after just under 2 years. The vendor replaced
it under warranty.
Today, my ~14 month old replacement battery barely turned the engine over on a
80 degree day. Sure, the aircraft sat outside in 45 degree weather last night
(Thomasville GA Fly-in - a really fun one), but the airplane had 8 hours of South
Georgia sunshine to warm up, so is isn't like the battery was chilled or anything.
To get to the point, what is the RV-list's collective experience with this battery?
I know it is light and has good cranking power when new, but I'm interested
in what sort of longevity people are seeing. Is it lasting 1 year, 2 years,
more, or less? I'd hate to go back to the Concorde, but I'd prefer that to a
battery that goes soft after less than two years.
KB
----------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Brown <dan(at)familybrown.org> |
| Subject: | RV7A near Dayton, OH? |
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1
List,
After a number of years of thinking and hoping, I've just taken the
plunge and bought an empennage kit for an RV-7A. Is there anybody on
the list with a flying 7/7A near Dayton? I19 or MGY would be ideal, but
other locations could work as well. It'd be great to see how they fly;
I'd be happy to cover expenses, of course.
Also, if there are any builders in the area who could use a hand, let me
know--the more I can learn on somebody else's airplane, the better! (-:
- --
Dan Brown, KE6MKS, dan(at)familybrown.org
"Since all the world is but a story, it were well for thee to buy the
more enduring story rather than the story that is less enduring."
-- The Judgment of St. Colum Cille
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Version: GnuPG v1.2.1 (MingW32)
Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org
iD8DBQFHEnZ0yQGUivXxtkERAotlAJoDaH+MsvSUHS3vWBfSOcxpAdd/RQCfQJgg
IkQ9Agtd2MsLpTpT8/v1mg8
=TJyw
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
Thanks Walter! I will stick a note on the calendar. They do come in handy on the
work bench for sure.
I guess we'll figure out the details then.
Regards,
Darrell
----- Original Message ----
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 1:04:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
On 10/14 5:53, Darrell Reiley wrote:
> I could use one of the rejects for testing. ;-)
I've donated all of the older ones but have one left that I use as
my tester/backup battery. If you want to wait till next July (scheduled
annual) you can have the next off the firewall.
Have only had two annuals so far and gave both to local builders.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - Painting
http://www.evorocket.com - Empennage
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.
http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
Ditto what others have said about charging voltage. AGMs like a higher
voltage. I don't have the paperwork handy, but I believe it was 14.2 or
14.4. If you regulator is set below 14 (likely scenario) than that
would explain the short life.
Jeff Point
RV-6 flying
RV-8 building
Milwaukee
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7A near Dayton, OH? |
You need to join this group. There are alot of RV's around you.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Dan Brown wrote:
>
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
>
> List,
>
> After a number of years of thinking and hoping, I've just taken the
> plunge and bought an empennage kit for an RV-7A. Is there anybody on
> the list with a flying 7/7A near Dayton? I19 or MGY would be ideal, but
> other locations could work as well. It'd be great to see how they fly;
> I'd be happy to cover expenses, of course.
>
> Also, if there are any builders in the area who could use a hand, let me
> know--the more I can learn on somebody else's airplane, the better! (-:
>
> - --
> Dan Brown, KE6MKS, dan(at)familybrown.org
> "Since all the world is but a story, it were well for thee to buy the
> more enduring story rather than the story that is less enduring."
> -- The Judgment of St. Colum Cille
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
> Version: GnuPG v1.2.1 (MingW32)
> Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org
>
> iD8DBQFHEnZ0yQGUivXxtkERAotlAJoDaH+MsvSUHS3vWBfSOcxpAdd/RQCfQJgg
> IkQ9Agtd2MsLpTpT8/v1mg8
> =TJyw
> -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
The next issue is how does one go about adjusting the Ford voltage regulator
I installed per Electric Bob's suggestion?
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
>
> Ditto what others have said about charging voltage. AGMs like a higher
> voltage. I don't have the paperwork handy, but I believe it was 14.2 or
> 14.4. If you regulator is set below 14 (likely scenario) than that would
> explain the short life.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 flying
> RV-8 building
> Milwaukee
>
>
>> *
>>
>> *
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> The next issue is how does one go about adjusting the Ford voltage
> regulator I installed per Electric Bob's suggestion?
Kyle, the Ford regulator is keeping my PC680 charged just fine, voltage
to the battery is ~14.3.
Don't know why your 680 died an early death, but that doesn't seem to be
the norm. As inexpensive as the regulators are, you might just replace
it if the output is too low.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
Look it over for an adjusting screw.
Then monitor the charging voltage when the engine is running
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
>
> The next issue is how does one go about adjusting the Ford voltage
> regulator I installed per Electric Bob's suggestion?
>
> KB
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 5:34 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
>
>
>>
>> Ditto what others have said about charging voltage. AGMs like a higher
>> voltage. I don't have the paperwork handy, but I believe it was 14.2 or
>> 14.4. If you regulator is set below 14 (likely scenario) than that would
>> explain the short life.
>>
>> Jeff Point
>> RV-6 flying
>> RV-8 building
>> Milwaukee
>>
>>
>>> *
>>>
>>> *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
That depends on which Ford regulator you installed. The older tall units have an
adjustment screw under the cap. Most of the short cap units are pre-set, not
to be adjusted. If it's adjustable, a run up and volt meter will give you the
charge output. You adjust the screw in for more output.
Darrell
----- Original Message ----
From: Kyle Boatright <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 7:33:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
The next issue is how does one go about adjusting the Ford voltage regulator
I installed per Electric Bob's suggestion?
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
>
> Ditto what others have said about charging voltage. AGMs like a higher
> voltage. I don't have the paperwork handy, but I believe it was 14.2 or
> 14.4. If you regulator is set below 14 (likely scenario) than that would
> explain the short life.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 flying
> RV-8 building
> Milwaukee
>
>
>> *
>>
>> *
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | michael(at)robbins.us.com |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
> Over the years, the Odyssey PC-680 has gotten very good reviews...
I had a PC-625 in my 180 hp IO-360 RV-8 for five years and it was
still going strong when I replaced it last month.- I never used a
trickle charger.- Maybe they have a QC issue.
Mike Robbins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
Darrell Reiley wrote:
>
>
> That depends on which Ford regulator you installed. The older tall
> units have an adjustment screw under the cap. Most of the short cap
> units are pre-set, not to be adjusted. If it's adjustable, a run up
> and volt meter will give you the charge output. You adjust the screw
> in for more output.
The VR166 type Ford regulator (mid-70's LTD) that 'Lectric Bob shows in
some of his schematics and many of us use is solid-state and doesn't
have any adjustments. Since it only costs about $10 it is easy to
replace if it has drifted out of spec. But they seem to be very reliable
units and mine has been fine for eight years.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Thomasville, GA Fly-In |
This past week-end was the Thomasville, Georgia annual fly-in. This
event has been happening close to 40 years and is one of my favorite
fly-in's to attend. It is a well run event that does not have a real
structured program. It is an aviation social event and the main rule is
for you to have a good time. If you are tired of poorly run events with
bad facilities, give this one a try next year. It happens the second
week-end in October every year and is open to all types of aircraft.
There is also a great private collection aviation engines on the field.
It is always open for viewing during the fly-in and contains rare
engines you might not have ever heard of.
Go to http://picasaweb.google.com/RV455J/Thomasville2007 for a few
pictures from this year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | PC-680 Performance |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
http://www.odysseyfactory.com/
is their website and they have their own charger, I took the part number
and did a search on Google and saved a bit of money over the factory
site. I use two of the batteries and always keep them charged full up,
as I have an electrically dependant engine.
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
Hi Kyle,
I have an Odyssey battery in my RV-6A. I was told that it needed to be
charged at 14.2 volts. If it was charged at a lower voltage, it would
gradually loose capacity from being undercharged.
I don't have a source for the 14.2 volts. I didn't find it on the
Odyssey battery website. Anyone know where the correct charging voltage
is documented?
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Kyle Boatright <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 7:07 pm
Subject: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
Over the years, the Odyssey PC-680 has gotten very good reviews for its
small size and high cranking amps. So, about 3 years ago, I selected
one to replace a 4 year old Concorde battery.
My first Odyssey battery became weak after just under 2 years. The
vendor replaced it under warranty.
Today, my ~14 month old replacement battery barely turned the engine
over on a 80 degree day. Sure, the aircraft sat outside in 45 degree
weather last night (Thomasville GA Fly-in - a really fun one), but the
airplane had 8 hours of South Georgia sunshine to warm up, so is isn't
like the battery was chilled or anything.
To get to the point, what is the RV-list's collective experience with
this battery? I know it is light and has good cranking power when new,
but I'm interested in what sort of longevity people are seeing. Is it
lasting 1 year, 2 years, more, or less? I'd hate to go back to the
Concorde, but I'd prefer that to a battery that goes soft after less
than two years.
KB
_____
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail
<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/index.htm?nc
id=AOLAOF00020000000970> !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
Kyle,
I think there are a coule of brand new regulators in my shop. I should have both
types.
Darrell
----- Original Message ----
From: Kyle Boatright <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 7:33:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
The next issue is how does one go about adjusting the Ford voltage regulator
I installed per Electric Bob's suggestion?
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
>
> Ditto what others have said about charging voltage. AGMs like a higher
> voltage. I don't have the paperwork handy, but I believe it was 14.2 or
> 14.4. If you regulator is set below 14 (likely scenario) than that would
> explain the short life.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 flying
> RV-8 building
> Milwaukee
>
>
>> *
>>
>> *
>
>
>
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.
http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
Specialized chargers for AGM batteries available here...
http://www.vdcelectronics.com/
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
----- Original Message -----
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
Hi Kyle,
I have an Odyssey battery in my RV-6A. I was told that it needed to
be charged at 14.2 volts. If it was charged at a lower voltage, it
would gradually loose capacity from being undercharged.
I don't have a source for the 14.2 volts. I didn't find it on the
Odyssey battery website. Anyone know where the correct charging voltage
is documented?
Regards,
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "robert stone" <rstone4(at)hot.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
Randy,
I think you will find that most of the quality 12 volt battery
chargers on the market today chage at the rate of 14.3 or there abouts
so Why don't you go to a place where 12 volt battries are sold and ask
what the charging rate is.
Bob Stone
Harker Heights, Tx
ZodiacXL
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Lervold
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
Specialized chargers for AGM batteries available here...
http://www.vdcelectronics.com/
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
----- Original Message -----
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
Hi Kyle,
I have an Odyssey battery in my RV-6A. I was told that it needed to
be charged at 14.2 volts. If it was charged at a lower voltage, it
would gradually loose capacity from being undercharged.
I don't have a source for the 14.2 volts. I didn't find it on the
Odyssey battery website. Anyone know where the correct charging voltage
is documented?
Regards,
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Performance |
AGM batteries prefer a little higher voltage. Yes, standard battery
chargers will work but are not optimum. Info from their site...
http://www.odysseyfactory.com/odycharg_b.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: robert stone
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
Randy,
I think you will find that most of the quality 12 volt battery
chargers on the market today chage at the rate of 14.3 or there abouts
so Why don't you go to a place where 12 volt battries are sold and ask
what the charging rate is.
Bob Stone
Harker Heights, Tx
ZodiacXL
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Lervold
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
Specialized chargers for AGM batteries available here...
http://www.vdcelectronics.com/
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
----- Original Message -----
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Performance
Hi Kyle,
I have an Odyssey battery in my RV-6A. I was told that it needed
to be charged at 14.2 volts. If it was charged at a lower voltage, it
would gradually loose capacity from being undercharged.
I don't have a source for the 14.2 volts. I didn't find it on the
Odyssey battery website. Anyone know where the correct charging voltage
is documented?
Regards,
Jim Ayers
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Sensor |
| From: | "vicster_26" <vicster(at)netvigator.com> |
Hello,
I am trying to find a suitable location for my fuel flow sensor between the fuel
pump and the Bendix injector (between the injector and flow divider is out of
the question) on my Lycoming AEIO-540, At the moment the simplest location has
the sensor longitudinally angled downward at about 40 deg angle (the outlet
being lower than the inlet). This location also ensures a straight line prior
to the inlet. I've read on previous post that it is better to have the sensor
level, how critical is this?
Thanks
Vic
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140177#140177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | PC-680 Follow-up |
After Saturday's marginal starting performance, I thought it was worth
getting quantifiable measurements on the battery and charging system, so
today I checked the battery and it showed 12.6v. The aircraft had sat
for 2 days since its last flight.
Then, I went flying. The engine's starting performance was *much*
better than on Saturday.
I checked the charging system's performance several times on the ground
and in the air, and the system voltage was always 14.2 - 14.5 v.
After I landed, I let the aircraft sit for long enough to roll it back
in the hangar, and checked it with the meter again. The reading was
12.8v.
So, the question is:
Was Saturday's reluctant start a freak event caused by unknown reasons?
Or should I expect to see more than 12.6 - 12.8v on a "charged" battery?
I know that 14.3-14.5v output from the alternator is within the
appropriate range.
Thanks in advance.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Follow-up |
13.2 Volts is considered a full charge on a standard lead-acid battery.
Also, on standard lead-acid batteries, heat can affect their
performance. Most people think a battery is most likely to "act up"
when it's very cold outside. They also "act up" when they are hot (like
in places like Georgia)....No idea what makeup the PC-680s are...
http://www.engineersedge.com/battery/discharge_rate_temperature_effects_battery.htm
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Kyle Boatright wrote:
> After Saturday's marginal starting performance, I thought it was worth
> getting quantifiable measurements on the battery and charging system,
> so today I checked the battery and it showed 12.6v. The aircraft had
> sat for 2 days since its last flight.
>
> Then, I went flying. The engine's starting performance was *much*
> better than on Saturday.
>
> I checked the charging system's performance several times on the
> ground and in the air, and the system voltage was always 14.2 - 14.5 v.
>
> After I landed, I let the aircraft sit for long enough to roll it back
> in the hangar, and checked it with the meter again. The reading was 12.8v.
>
> So, the question is:
>
> Was Saturday's reluctant start a freak event caused by unknown
> reasons? Or should I expect to see more than 12.6 - 12.8v on a
> "charged" battery? I know that 14.3-14.5v output from the alternator
> is within the appropriate range.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> KB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Follow-up |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Follow-up |
On 18:02 2007-10-15 Scott wrote:
> 13.2 Volts is considered a full charge on a standard lead-acid
> battery.
This is true, but keep in mind that 13.2 is at zero load. If you are
reading the voltage by turning on your electrical system and reading the
number off your volt meter, I wouldn't be surprised if there is enough in
your system to draw the voltage down somewhat. 12.6 seems pretty much in
the ballpark.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Follow-up |
Oh, absolutely...I forgot to mention that was at no load. 12.6V with
some load on it seems reasonable to me (that's what I usually see on my
battery I use when I take my ham radio gear portable "in the
field")...We have a handheld load tester at work...looks like something
that would be bought at an auto parts store. I assume it is a high
wattage resistor that puts a load on the battery and you keep it on for
a certain period of time and watch the meter on it. If it stays in the
green area, the battery is "good"...
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Rob Prior wrote:
>
>On 18:02 2007-10-15 Scott wrote:
>
>
>>13.2 Volts is considered a full charge on a standard lead-acid
>>battery.
>>
>>
>
>This is true, but keep in mind that 13.2 is at zero load. If you are
>reading the voltage by turning on your electrical system and reading the
>number off your volt meter, I wouldn't be surprised if there is enough in
>your system to draw the voltage down somewhat. 12.6 seems pretty much in
>the ballpark.
>
>-Rob
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC-680 Follow-up |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 1:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC-680 Follow-up
>
> On 18:02 2007-10-15 Scott wrote:
>> 13.2 Volts is considered a full charge on a standard lead-acid
>> battery.
>
> This is true, but keep in mind that 13.2 is at zero load. If you are
> reading the voltage by turning on your electrical system and reading the
> number off your volt meter, I wouldn't be surprised if there is enough in
> your system to draw the voltage down somewhat. 12.6 seems pretty much in
> the ballpark.
>
> -Rob
I saw between 12.6 and 12.8 at zero load. (Measured at the "always hot" aux
power plug).
With the system charging at 14.2+ volts, what does this tell me?
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Sensor |
Don Rivera at Air Flow Performance recommends placing the sensor
between the fuel servo and the flow divider. In most cases this
would mount the sensor vertically. I questioned him about this and
he said, he tested it and it really makes no difference.
I like the idea, because it seems to be the easiest solution. But,
at this time, I do not have a need for a fuel flow data so I have not
installed one.
Bob
RV6
"Wicked Witch of the West"
At 07:15 PM 10/15/07, you wrote:
>
>Hello,
>
>I am trying to find a suitable location for my fuel flow sensor
>between the fuel pump and the Bendix injector (between the injector
>and flow divider is out of the question) on my Lycoming AEIO-540, At
>the moment the simplest location has the sensor longitudinally
>angled downward at about 40 deg angle (the outlet being lower than
>the inlet). This location also ensures a straight line prior to the
>inlet. I've read on previous post that it is better to have the
>sensor level, how critical is this?
>
>Thanks
>Vic
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140177#140177
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Brown <dan(at)familybrown.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7A near Dayton, OH? |
Quoting Bobby Hester :
> You need to join this group. There are alot of RV's around you.
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/
Thanks to you and Dana for the pointer; I'll check them out!
--
Dan Brown, KE6MKS, dan(at)familybrown.org
"Since all the world is but a story, it were well for thee to buy the
more enduring story rather than the story that is less enduring."
-- The Judgment of St. Colum Cille
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Sensor |
My flow sensor is mounted vertically as described below and is functioning
perfectly.
YMMV,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared5(at)brier.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Flow Sensor
>
> Don Rivera at Air Flow Performance recommends placing the sensor between
> the fuel servo and the flow divider. In most cases this would mount the
> sensor vertically. I questioned him about this and he said, he tested it
> and it really makes no difference.
>
> I like the idea, because it seems to be the easiest solution. But, at
> this time, I do not have a need for a fuel flow data so I have not
> installed one.
>
> Bob
> RV6
> "Wicked Witch of the West"
>
>
> At 07:15 PM 10/15/07, you wrote:
>>
>>Hello,
>>
>>I am trying to find a suitable location for my fuel flow sensor between
>>the fuel pump and the Bendix injector (between the injector and flow
>>divider is out of the question) on my Lycoming AEIO-540, At the moment the
>>simplest location has the sensor longitudinally angled downward at about
>>40 deg angle (the outlet being lower than the inlet). This location also
>>ensures a straight line prior to the inlet. I've read on previous post
>>that it is better to have the sensor level, how critical is this?
>>
>>Thanks
>>Vic
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140177#140177
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Sensor |
Hey Vic,
I put mine inside the firewall downstream of the electric fuel pump. Works
fine, I think the directions were written by a lawyer, say that it need to
be between the mech fuel pump and the divider. As I have to of the same se
nsors on my boat installed prior to the mech fuel pump drawing more gph for
the last ten years without a problem, I think this location will be suitab
le on our planes as well.
Paul Rice
N64PR
RV8
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Flow Sensor
> From: vicster(at)netvigator.com
> Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 17:15:45 -0700
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I am trying to find a suitable location for my fuel flow sensor between t
he fuel pump and the Bendix injector (between the injector and flow divider
is out of the question) on my Lycoming AEIO-540, At the moment the simples
t location has the sensor longitudinally angled downward at about 40 deg an
gle (the outlet being lower than the inlet). This location also ensures a s
traight line prior to the inlet. I've read on previous post that it is bett
er to have the sensor level, how critical is this?
>
> Thanks
> Vic
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140177#140177
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Intersection Fairings |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
I'm doing the intersection fairings and those who have "9-A" airframes,
how did you attach the upper intxn fairing to the fuselage? The lower is
glassed to the speed pants but the top one?
Jim Nelson
N15JN 95% done 30% to go--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportypilot <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Intersection Fairings |
Three choices, nutplates cabin floor and intersection failing, rivet-
nuts or sheetmetal screws
Danny
Sent from cell
On Oct 16, 2007, at 1:08 PM, James H Nelson wrote:
>
> I'm doing the intersection fairings and those who have "9-A"
> airframes,
> how did you attach the upper intxn fairing to the fuselage? The
> lower is
> glassed to the speed pants but the top one?
>
> Jim Nelson
> N15JN 95% done 30% to go--
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry LeGare <garry(at)versadek.com> |
| Subject: | Unfourtunately it's time to sell my RV6 and this time I mean |
it.
Health issues have restricted use of my "6" and finally have made it
almost impossible to continue flying.
It was completed in 2001 has 260 hr. TT with 190 SMOH on the 0360A3M
with Electroair Ignition,new slick mag and a just overhauled Whirlwind
151 3 blade prop, Wolf air/oil separator Chrome Valve covers and
intake tubes, Annual with sale, and will assit with annuals as needed.
CUSTOM FEATURES includes:--Center fuel tank(12.5 gal). All carbon
fiber tilt canopy structure with special locking access door and Kruger
sun shade.
Removable extended engine air intake. Carbon fiber extended vertical
fin. Bonded on composite gear leg and intersection Fairing. Special
ventilation and heater system with dual muffs, boots on all push rods
including flaps and a custom air extractor, means you will be warm or
cool, you decide. 3 density Temperfoam seats with lambs wool covering,
Single Link tailwheel steering,Carbon fiber elevator intersection
fairing, Vortex Generators, Baggage cover, heavy duty canopy cover,
Special floor and cockpit insulation, and more.
ELECTRICAL:--B&C 40 amp alt and adjustable reg, 2 new B&C 12 Amp/Hr 400
CCA sealed bats with either or both switching. Over voltage
protection, Port on panel for alternator diagnostics, battery charging
port. Electric flaps, electric elevator and aileron trim, stabs, dual
landing lights with wig wag setting and more.
PANEL:--MicroAir transponder and dual MicroAir radios, intercom with
built in noise canceling headsets(2) Rocky Mnt Uencoder & Umonitor for
engine, ECI CHT/EGT analiser, ECI dual Fuel gauge, Bendix King color
GPS, True Track auto pilot, AOA with voice warning, Dynon D10A Efis
just factory upgraded, left side throttle/mixtue/prop, controls, G
meter, Parking brake, Electonic ignition advance gauge, Sony FM/CD
player, Glove box, Wood grain accents, and more.
It has always been hangered in dry climate area(last four years Paso
Robles). The only thing she needs is a paint job, It has been primered
since I first started flying. This is my baby and I'm going to miss her,
hoping to find her a good home. I'm asking $69,900 or best offer
805-438-3451
garry(at)versadek.com
Garry "Casper" LeGare
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "robert stone" <rstone4(at)hot.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Upgrade for Garmin 296 Color GPS |
Members,
This message is to advise all of you who are using the Garmin Color
296 GPS and having trouble reading the screen because it is not light
enough to compete with the sun. I have one of these units and trying to
read it in bright sun light under a bubble or tear drop canopy is almost
impossible. I just got off the phone with Garmin Electronics and there
is a modification available for the 296 for a fee of $50.00. They will
modify the unit to match the newer GPS units in light intensity so that
they are more easily read. For those of you who are interested, here is
the address to send your unit to for this modification.
Garmin International
1200 East 151 Street
Door 1,
Olathe, Kansas, 66062
Bob Stone
Harker Heights, Tx
ZodiacXL w/Jabiru 3300
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Upgrade for Garmin 296 Color GPS |
Bob this sound very interesting. Please give us a report back as soon as
you get yours back and let us know if it really is better. My Dynon and
AF 2500 engine monitor are both alot easier to read.
Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
robert stone wrote:
> Members,
> This message is to advise all of you who are using the Garmin
> Color 296 GPS and having trouble reading the screen because it is not
> light enough to compete with the sun. I have one of these units and
> trying to read it in bright sun light under a bubble or tear drop
> canopy is almost impossible. I just got off the phone with Garmin
> Electronics and there is a modification available for the 296 for a
> fee of $50.00. They will modify the unit to match the newer GPS units
> in light intensity so that they are more easily read. For those of
> you who are interested, here is the address to send your unit to for
> this modification.
> Garmin International
> 1200 East 151 Street
> Door 1,
> Olathe, Kansas, 66062
>
> Bob Stone
> Harker Heights, Tx
> ZodiacXL w/Jabiru 3300
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Altimeter error |
| From: | "shirleyh" <shirleyh(at)oceanbroadband.net> |
Thanks to all who offered advice regarding my faulty altimeter. I took it to a
professional and he found that the subscale mechanism was loose. He was able to
reset the subscale and reassemble the altimeter and it then checked out fine
up to 40000ft. We will see how long it holds up - if it fails again then it gets
consigned to the bin
Shirley
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140729#140729
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Upgrade for Garmin 296 Color GPS |
Bob, I assume you are sending your unit in and would you pls post re how
much better the unit is when you get it back? As for mine, if I turn it
so sun shibnes direcly on it, it is more easily seen, seems when adj to
easily read angle, reflections from inside make it dificult to read.
BTW, wonder if anyone has tried the magnifyer that is advertized for
these units?? Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TDY to Boston |
| From: | "George, Neal E Capt MIL USAF 605TES/TSI" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil> |
Folks -
Thanks for all the suggestions, and my apologies for not responding
sooner. I have jumped thru all the necessary hoops to get a HAF number,
so I can land at any AF installation. But that's not always the best
answer. Most don't have AvGas (Hanscom does, because they have an
AeroClub), and it's still a fair amount of hassle to land and even more
aggravation to launch from an Air Force Base, even with the clearance.
I was hoping for a quiet little field with a few RVers to meet.
But the Fates conspired against us and we wound up on the commercial
cattle car. Probably a good thing, as we'd still be stuck looking for a
hole in the storms that have soaked the PanHandle for the last few days.
We'll try again in a few weeks :-)
Neal
=============
Hi Neal. I assume that if your business is at Hanscom, you can just land
at Hanscom, can't you? It's not exclusively an AFB; it's a regional
airport, too. (I think Goulian flies out of there, doesn't he?) Besides,
you're in the military so I doubt it'd be an issue anyway.
I assume that some RV builder there would be more than happy to have you
stay at their house.
Anyone?
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TDY to Boston |
Sir,
Your direct email bounced.....
Can you provide me with the hoops.....
I have a RV6A that I will be finishing this fall and would like to fly in to Hanscom
(one of the controllers there is my sister's 'SigOther') along with
a few other military installations that I have been stationed.
I'm also a retired Marine Master Gunnery Sergeant (E9).
Thanks,
Ralph E. Capen MGySgt USMC retired
RV6AQB Slider N822AR @ N06 - forever finishing
-----Original Message-----
>From: "George, Neal E Capt MIL USAF 605TES/TSI" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
>Sent: Oct 19, 2007 12:21 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: TDY to Boston
>
>
>Folks -
>
>Thanks for all the suggestions, and my apologies for not responding
>sooner. I have jumped thru all the necessary hoops to get a HAF number,
>so I can land at any AF installation. But that's not always the best
>answer. Most don't have AvGas (Hanscom does, because they have an
>AeroClub), and it's still a fair amount of hassle to land and even more
>aggravation to launch from an Air Force Base, even with the clearance.
>
>I was hoping for a quiet little field with a few RVers to meet.
>
>But the Fates conspired against us and we wound up on the commercial
>cattle car. Probably a good thing, as we'd still be stuck looking for a
>hole in the storms that have soaked the PanHandle for the last few days.
>
>
>We'll try again in a few weeks :-)
>
>Neal
>
>=============
>
>Hi Neal. I assume that if your business is at Hanscom, you can just land
>at Hanscom, can't you? It's not exclusively an AFB; it's a regional
>airport, too. (I think Goulian flies out of there, doesn't he?) Besides,
>you're in the military so I doubt it'd be an issue anyway.
>
>I assume that some RV builder there would be more than happy to have you
>stay at their house.
>
>Anyone?
>
>--------
>Bob Collins
>St. Paul, Minn.
>Letters from Flyover Country
>http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Upgrade for Garmin 296 Color GPS |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TDY to Boston |
| From: | "George, Neal E Capt MIL USAF 605TES/TSI" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil> |
Hey Ralph -
The requirements are remarkably simple - DD Forms 2400, 2401 & 2402 sent
to that funny-shaped building in DC.
DD 2400 must travel directly from your insurer to HQ AF. The other two
you fill out and send. Use blue ink.
Retired status helps justify the request, but won't guarantee
acceptance.
Partnerships and non-owners are considerably more difficult. When I
asked for my first HAF number, I enjoyed the use of an airplane that I
didn't own - I carried a non-owner's insurance policy in addition to be
listed as a named-pilot on the owner's policy. It complicated the
insurance forms, but the folks at HQ AF were patient and helpful. More
recently, I've partnered on an airplane, and had other (but similar)
difficulties. These are the hoops that have given me headaches.
Feel free to call if you want to talk it over - 850-218-4838
neal
================
Sir,
Your direct email bounced.....
Can you provide me with the hoops.....
I have a RV6A that I will be finishing this fall and would like to fly
in to Hanscom (one of the controllers there is my sister's 'SigOther')
along with a few other military installations that I have been
stationed.
I'm also a retired Marine Master Gunnery Sergeant (E9).
Thanks,
Ralph E. Capen MGySgt USMC retired
RV6AQB Slider N822AR @ N06 - forever finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Upgrade for Garmin 296 Color GPS |
It may be OK for some, but the screen was not as bright as the 295 and is not as
bright as the 396/496. Look at them side by side one day and it will be apparent.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)speedyquick.net>
Sent: 10/19/07 10:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Upgrade for Garmin 296 Color GPS
I for one was puzzled by the original post, as I've been flying behind a 296
for several years and have never had a problem reading the screen. In fact,
I'm always impressed by how bright it is. I would think if anything the
older units might not be as bright, but mine was a very early model. Maybe
some are different, or maybe some people just perceive them differently.
I'd spend some time with the unit first and see if you have a problem before
sending it in.
Ed Bundy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 11:42 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Upgrade for Garmin 296 Color GPS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | countersink, dimple and nutplates |
| From: | "Carlos Sa" <carlosfsa(at)yahoo.com> |
Hello, all
Pardon the interruption: I am and CH601 (Zenair's Zodiac) builder, and am looking
for some information and advice.
I want to build an access panel like the ones in the attached picture. countersinking,
dimpling and nutplates being rare things in a CH601, I thought I would
turn to the community of builders that does this the most.
I have done a good deal of research, but I don't feel confident enough to proceed.
So, here are my questions & concerns:
1) The CH601 skin is 0.020" thick. I suppose this is too thin for countersinking?
Do I dimple instead?
2) If I dimple the skin, I presume I should also dimple the material underneath...?
In the case of the nutplate, I presume I should get one with the dimpled
lugs? (I saw it in Wicks' on-line catalog: MS21049)
3) I have been unable to relate screw size to dimple set size. How does this work?
Any advice and suggestion welcome. Part numbers would be great !!!
Thanks much for your time - now back to your regular broadcast.
Carlos Sa
--------
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal, Canada
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140989#140989
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/access_panel_412.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: countersink, dimple and nutplates |
Carlos,
.020 is indeed too thin for countersinking a standard rivet, but you can
get away with "oops" rivets (sold by Avery and others) which have much
smaller heads and require a much shallower countersink. You wouldn't
need to have dimpled nutplates if you use them. They are also known as
shear head rivets. I use them a lot for holding nutplates.
An alternative to dimpled nutplates is to dimple them yourself. I ground
one side of the female die flat so that it clears the central portion of
the nutplate to facilitate the process.
Are you using flush screws? If so, you will need the countersunk
nutplates. You don't have to get the ones with dimpled lugs if you
dimple them yourself. Avery and Cleaveland tools have dimple dies for
screw holes. Another thing you can do, if you're too cheap to buy the
dimple dies, is to make a jig with a C-sunk nutplate riveted to a scrap
of aluminum. You would hold this behind the screw hole and run a flush
screw into it, using the nutplate as a female die. Be sure to lube the
threads of the screw and the metal around the hole and work slowly. As
always, practice on scrap first.
Have fun with it.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Carlos Sa wrote:
>
>Hello, all
>
>Pardon the interruption: I am and CH601 (Zenair's Zodiac) builder, and am looking
for some information and advice.
>
>I want to build an access panel like the ones in the attached picture. countersinking,
dimpling and nutplates being rare things in a CH601, I thought I would
turn to the community of builders that does this the most.
>
>I have done a good deal of research, but I don't feel confident enough to proceed.
So, here are my questions & concerns:
>
>1) The CH601 skin is 0.020" thick. I suppose this is too thin for countersinking?
Do I dimple instead?
>2) If I dimple the skin, I presume I should also dimple the material underneath...?
In the case of the nutplate, I presume I should get one with the dimpled
lugs? (I saw it in Wicks' on-line catalog: MS21049)
>3) I have been unable to relate screw size to dimple set size. How does this work?
>
>Any advice and suggestion welcome. Part numbers would be great !!!
>
>Thanks much for your time - now back to your regular broadcast.
>
>
>Carlos Sa
>
>--------
>CH601-HD, plans
>Montreal, Canada
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140989#140989
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/access_panel_412.jpg
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Veld <jcveld(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | FOR SALE; RV6 WING KIT |
I have an older wing kit, sn 20808, that i would like to sell. It has
Phlogiston spars, and is partially built. control surfaces have not
been built. This is NOT pre-punched. I live in Kalamazoo, MI.
Asking $3,700
Contact; John Veld
269 267-2509
jcveld(at)mac.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: countersink, dimple and nutplates |
Carlos,
For #6, #8 flush head screws you need the corresponding dimple die, ie screw
heads are different from rivet heads. Avery, Cleveland, ATS, Plane Tools,
all carry Screw dimple die sets. So you will need #40 rivet dimple die set
for the platenut rivets and the appropriate screw dimple die set. Dimpling
the platenuts is easy as Ed pointed out. Use the large size dimpled plate
nuts for the screw that you will be using if you can. They are much easier
to rivet. Platenut jigs are available at those mentioned companies as well.
Pricey but worth it if you are doing a bunch of platenuts.
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: countersink, dimple and nutplates
>
> Carlos,
>
> .020 is indeed too thin for countersinking a standard rivet, but you can
> get away with "oops" rivets (sold by Avery and others) which have much
> smaller heads and require a much shallower countersink. You wouldn't need
> to have dimpled nutplates if you use them. They are also known as shear
> head rivets. I use them a lot for holding nutplates.
>
> An alternative to dimpled nutplates is to dimple them yourself. I ground
> one side of the female die flat so that it clears the central portion of
> the nutplate to facilitate the process.
>
> Are you using flush screws? If so, you will need the countersunk
> nutplates. You don't have to get the ones with dimpled lugs if you dimple
> them yourself. Avery and Cleaveland tools have dimple dies for screw
> holes. Another thing you can do, if you're too cheap to buy the dimple
> dies, is to make a jig with a C-sunk nutplate riveted to a scrap of
> aluminum. You would hold this behind the screw hole and run a flush screw
> into it, using the nutplate as a female die. Be sure to lube the threads
> of the screw and the metal around the hole and work slowly. As always,
> practice on scrap first.
>
> Have fun with it.
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
>
> Carlos Sa wrote:
>
>>
>>Hello, all
>>
>>Pardon the interruption: I am and CH601 (Zenair's Zodiac) builder, and am
>>looking for some information and advice.
>>
>>I want to build an access panel like the ones in the attached picture.
>>countersinking, dimpling and nutplates being rare things in a CH601, I
>>thought I would turn to the community of builders that does this the most.
>>
>>I have done a good deal of research, but I don't feel confident enough to
>>proceed. So, here are my questions & concerns:
>>
>>1) The CH601 skin is 0.020" thick. I suppose this is too thin for
>>countersinking? Do I dimple instead?
>>2) If I dimple the skin, I presume I should also dimple the material
>>underneath...? In the case of the nutplate, I presume I should get one
>>with the dimpled lugs? (I saw it in Wicks' on-line catalog: MS21049)
>>3) I have been unable to relate screw size to dimple set size. How does
>>this work?
>>
>>Any advice and suggestion welcome. Part numbers would be great !!!
>>
>>Thanks much for your time - now back to your regular broadcast.
>>
>>
>>Carlos Sa
>>
>>--------
>>CH601-HD, plans
>>Montreal, Canada
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140989#140989
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Attachments:
>>http://forums.matronics.com//files/access_panel_412.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | countersink, dimple and nutplates |
Another idea Carlos would be to see if there is an RV builder in your area.
Since your plane doesn't use much of this buying the tools seems rather
un-necessary. You might be able to find an RV builder near by who would be
willing to help with this small piece and has the tools needed.
I see you are in Montreal, Canada. Anyone near there?
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 12:40 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: countersink, dimple and nutplates
>
>
>
> Carlos,
> For #6, #8 flush head screws you need the corresponding dimple die, ie
> screw
> heads are different from rivet heads. Avery, Cleveland, ATS, Plane Tools,
> all carry Screw dimple die sets. So you will need #40 rivet dimple die
> set
> for the platenut rivets and the appropriate screw dimple die set.
> Dimpling
> the platenuts is easy as Ed pointed out. Use the large size dimpled plate
> nuts for the screw that you will be using if you can. They are much
> easier
> to rivet. Platenut jigs are available at those mentioned companies as
> well.
> Pricey but worth it if you are doing a bunch of platenuts.
> Mike H 9A/8A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 2:03 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: countersink, dimple and nutplates
>
>
> >
> > Carlos,
> >
> > .020 is indeed too thin for countersinking a standard rivet, but you can
> > get away with "oops" rivets (sold by Avery and others) which have much
> > smaller heads and require a much shallower countersink. You wouldn't
> need
> > to have dimpled nutplates if you use them. They are also known as shear
> > head rivets. I use them a lot for holding nutplates.
> >
> > An alternative to dimpled nutplates is to dimple them yourself. I ground
> > one side of the female die flat so that it clears the central portion of
> > the nutplate to facilitate the process.
> >
> > Are you using flush screws? If so, you will need the countersunk
> > nutplates. You don't have to get the ones with dimpled lugs if you
> dimple
> > them yourself. Avery and Cleaveland tools have dimple dies for screw
> > holes. Another thing you can do, if you're too cheap to buy the dimple
> > dies, is to make a jig with a C-sunk nutplate riveted to a scrap of
> > aluminum. You would hold this behind the screw hole and run a flush
> screw
> > into it, using the nutplate as a female die. Be sure to lube the threads
> > of the screw and the metal around the hole and work slowly. As always,
> > practice on scrap first.
> >
> > Have fun with it.
> >
> > Pax,
> >
> > Ed Holyoke
> >
> >
> >
> > Carlos Sa wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>Hello, all
> >>
> >>Pardon the interruption: I am and CH601 (Zenair's Zodiac) builder, and
> am
> >>looking for some information and advice.
> >>
> >>I want to build an access panel like the ones in the attached picture.
> >>countersinking, dimpling and nutplates being rare things in a CH601, I
> >>thought I would turn to the community of builders that does this the
> most.
> >>
> >>I have done a good deal of research, but I don't feel confident enough
> to
> >>proceed. So, here are my questions & concerns:
> >>
> >>1) The CH601 skin is 0.020" thick. I suppose this is too thin for
> >>countersinking? Do I dimple instead?
> >>2) If I dimple the skin, I presume I should also dimple the material
> >>underneath...? In the case of the nutplate, I presume I should get one
> >>with the dimpled lugs? (I saw it in Wicks' on-line catalog: MS21049)
> >>3) I have been unable to relate screw size to dimple set size. How does
> >>this work?
> >>
> >>Any advice and suggestion welcome. Part numbers would be great !!!
> >>
> >>Thanks much for your time - now back to your regular broadcast.
> >>
> >>
> >>Carlos Sa
> >>
> >>--------
> >>CH601-HD, plans
> >>Montreal, Canada
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140989#140989
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Attachments:
> >>http://forums.matronics.com//files/access_panel_412.jpg
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Williams" <mr.gsun(at)gmail.com> |
Hi folks,
I'm getting stuff ready to do my first annual condition inspection on my
recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT time flying!!) I
want to change tires and was really nervous about the wing jack when I
swapped tires 9 months ago. I was told to put a piece of pipe inside the
landing gear strut before removing the nut and jack it up. Does anyone have
their gear leg out in the open and could give me a measurement? Mine is all
wrapped up in wheel pants and tough to get to right now. I think a 1" pipe
is about right but need to know the inside diameter of the gear leg tube.
Thanks in advance.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
Greg,
There is an excellent tool from Avery just for this purpose. I use it and
love it. You end up drilling a hole in the center of the wheel nut and
installing a bracket over it to replace the rivenut for the wheel pants. It
is an easy conversion, an inexpensive jack jig, and makes lifting a wheel
and removing it quite safe and easy. Check it out here.
http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx
I see they have the already modified axle nuts as well.
http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.aspx
Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
http://www.averytools.com/p-180-rv-jack-stand-kit-bracket-kit.aspx
You can purchase all this as a kit.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Williams
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Gear Legs
Hi folks,
I'm getting stuff ready to do my first annual condition inspection on my
recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT time flying!!) I
want to change tires and was really nervous about the wing jack when I
swapped tires 9 months ago. I was told to put a piece of pipe inside the
landing gear strut before removing the nut and jack it up. Does anyone have
their gear leg out in the open and could give me a measurement? Mine is all
wrapped up in wheel pants and tough to get to right now. I think a 1" pipe
is about right but need to know the inside diameter of the gear leg tube.
Thanks in advance.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Tim:
I'm having a hard time visualizing how you get the wheel off with the
jack attached to the axle??? How does that work?
dave
On Oct 22, 2007, at 10:29 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
> Greg,
>
>
> There is an excellent tool from Avery just for this purpose. I use
> it and love it. You end up drilling a hole in the center of the
> wheel nut and installing a bracket over it to replace the rivenut
> for the wheel pants. It is an easy conversion, an inexpensive jack
> jig, and makes lifting a wheel and removing it quite safe and
> easy. Check it out here.
>
> http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx
>
>
> I see they have the already modified axle nuts as well.
>
>
> http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-
> stand.aspx
>
>
> Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
>
> http://www.averytools.com/p-180-rv-jack-stand-kit-bracket-kit.aspx
>
>
> You can purchase all this as a kit.
>
>
> Tim
>
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Williams
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Gear Legs
>
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I'm getting stuff ready to do my first annual condition inspection
> on my recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT time
> flying!!) I want to change tires and was really nervous about
> the wing jack when I swapped tires 9 months ago. I was told to put
> a piece of pipe inside the landing gear strut before removing the
> nut and jack it up. Does anyone have their gear leg out in the
> open and could give me a measurement? Mine is all wrapped up in
> wheel pants and tough to get to right now. I think a 1" pipe is
> about right but need to know the inside diameter of the gear leg tube.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Greg
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ===========================================================
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
Yea, I understand that. What you do is remove the little wheel pant
bracket, place the jack inside the axle through the axle nut. After
jacking it up you remove the axle nut and slide it onto the jack bracket
pipe. You slide the wheel onto the jack bracket pipe as well then you can
place a block or jackstand or something under the axle and let it down.
This allows you to remove the wheel from the jack bracket to do whatever you
need.
Reverse to re-install.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Cudney
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Legs
Tim:
I'm having a hard time visualizing how you get the wheel off with the jack
attached to the axle??? How does that work?
dave
On Oct 22, 2007, at 10:29 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
<http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx>
http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx
I see they have the already modified axle nuts as well.
<http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.asp
x>
http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.aspx
Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
_____
size=2 width="100%" align=center>
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Williams
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Gear Legs
Hi folks,
I'm getting stuff ready to do my first annual condition inspection on my
recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT time flying!!) I want
to change tires and was really nervous about the wing jack when I swapped
tires 9 months ago. I was told to put a piece of pipe inside the landing
gear strut before removing the nut and jack it up. Does anyone have their
gear leg out in the open and could give me a measurement? Mine is all
wrapped up in wheel pants and tough to get to right now. I think a 1" pipe
is about right but need to know the inside diameter of the gear leg tube.
Thanks in advance.
Greg
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
- NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space">
--> <http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gear Legs wheel replacement |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Dave,
What you do is to remove the pant. next, you remove the nut plate
adapter from the nut leaving a (I believe a 11/16") hole. You put a
pipe, about 12 to 15" long into the hole and put a jack on the end of the
pipe. Jack the wheel up and then remove the nut (hopefully you pulled
the key and loosened it a bit before you jacked it up) and slide the
wheel outward on to the pipe. Once the wheel is removed far enough, you
put a stand under the axle and let the jack down. Remove the wheel and
pipe and do what ever.
I modified my axle nuts to do this in the future. There is not a
good way to do tire repair or what ever with the fairings in place. I
did not relish lifting the a/c at the wing. Its a cheep mod. A piece of
pipe and a small jack with a jack stand is all you need.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gear Legs tire changing |
| From: | Michael W Stewart <mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com> |
Dont all RV's have a platenet on the axel nut to hold the wheel pant
bracket?
I dont see how a hollow axel nut to take the pipe will work if you have
to
mount the wheel pant bracket to the axel nut.
Mike
"Tim Bryan"
To
Sent by:
owner-rv-list-ser
cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subj
ect
RE: RV-List: Gear Legs
10/22/2007 01:29
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
Greg,
There is an excellent tool from Avery just for this purpose. I use it
and
love it. You end up drilling a hole in the center of the wheel nut and
installing a bracket over it to replace the rivenut for the wheel pants
.
It is an easy conversion, an inexpensive jack jig, and makes lifting a
wheel and removing it quite safe and easy. Check it out here.
http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx
I see they have the already modified axle nuts as well.
http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand
.aspx
Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
http://www.averytools.com/p-180-rv-jack-stand-kit-bracket-kit.aspx
You can purchase all this as a kit.
Tim
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Williams
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Gear Legs
Hi folks,
I'm getting stuff ready to do my first annual condition inspection on m
y
recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT time flying!!)
I want to change tires and was really nervous about the wing jack when
I
swapped tires 9 months ago. I was told to put a piece of pipe inside t
he
landing gear strut before removing the nut and jack it up. Does anyone
have their gear leg out in the open and could give me a measurement? M
ine
is all wrapped up in wheel pants and tough to get to right now. I thin
k a
1" pipe is about right but need to know the inside diameter of the gear
leg
tube.
Thanks in advance.
Greg
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
Hey Greg,
I've got a spare Avery jack and modified axle nut set
I'll sell to you. They are nice and work very well.
Total Price New $75.00,
I'll take $50.00
Darrell
--- Tim Bryan wrote:
> Greg,
>
>
>
> There is an excellent tool from Avery just for this
> purpose. I use it and
> love it. You end up drilling a hole in the center
> of the wheel nut and
> installing a bracket over it to replace the rivenut
> for the wheel pants. It
> is an easy conversion, an inexpensive jack jig, and
> makes lifting a wheel
> and removing it quite safe and easy. Check it out
> here.
>
> http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx
>
>
>
> I see they have the already modified axle nuts as
> well.
>
>
>
>
http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.aspx
>
>
>
> Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
>
>
http://www.averytools.com/p-180-rv-jack-stand-kit-bracket-kit.aspx
>
>
>
> You can purchase all this as a kit.
>
>
>
> Tim
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Greg Williams
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Gear Legs
>
>
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I'm getting stuff ready to do my first annual
> condition inspection on my
> recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a
> GREAT time flying!!) I
> want to change tires and was really nervous about
> the wing jack when I
> swapped tires 9 months ago. I was told to put a
> piece of pipe inside the
> landing gear strut before removing the nut and jack
> it up. Does anyone have
> their gear leg out in the open and could give me a
> measurement? Mine is all
> wrapped up in wheel pants and tough to get to right
> now. I think a 1" pipe
> is about right but need to know the inside diameter
> of the gear leg tube.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Greg
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Gear Legs tire changing |
Mike,
Check out the last link in my message below. It has a picture of the little
bracket that goes over the hole in the axle nut. This little bracket has
the platenut on it for the wheel pant.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael W Stewart
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 2:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gear Legs tire changing
Dont all RV's have a platenet on the axel nut to hold the wheel pant
bracket?
I dont see how a hollow axel nut to take the pipe will work if you have to
mount the wheel pant bracket to the axel nut.
Mike
Inactive hide details for "Tim Bryan" "Tim Bryan"
"Tim Bryan"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/22/2007 01:29 PM
Please respond to
rv-list(at)matronics.com
To
cc
Subject
RE: RV-List: Gear Legs
Greg,
There is an excellent tool from Avery just for this purpose. I use it and
love it. You end up drilling a hole in the center of the wheel nut and
installing a bracket over it to replace the rivenut for the wheel pants. It
is an easy conversion, an inexpensive jack jig, and makes lifting a wheel
and removing it quite safe and easy. Check it out here.
<http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx>
http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx
I see they have the already modified axle nuts as well.
<http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.asp
x>
http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.aspx
Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
<http://www.averytools.com/p-180-rv-jack-stand-kit-bracket-kit.aspx>
http://www.averytools.com/p-180-rv-jack-stand-kit-bracket-kit.aspx
You can purchase all this as a kit.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Williams
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Gear Legs
Hi folks,
I'm getting stuff ready to do my first annual condition inspection on my
recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT time flying!!) I want
to change tires and was really nervous about the wing jack when I swapped
tires 9 months ago. I was told to put a piece of pipe inside the landing
gear strut before removing the nut and jack it up. Does anyone have their
gear leg out in the open and could give me a measurement? Mine is all
wrapped up in wheel pants and tough to get to right now. I think a 1" pipe
is about right but need to know the inside diameter of the gear leg tube.
Thanks in advance.
Greg
====================================
?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
====================================
u>http://forums.matronics.com
====================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Gear Legs wheel replacement |
The problem I had with this method was the height of the pipe to the floor.
I didn't have a jack that would get under it. Even my floor jack was too
low so I went with the avery system. Both use the same principle however
and it works great.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James H Nelson
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 2:11 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Gear Legs wheel replacement
>
>
> Dave,
> What you do is to remove the pant. next, you remove the nut plate
> adapter from the nut leaving a (I believe a 11/16") hole. You put a
> pipe, about 12 to 15" long into the hole and put a jack on the end of the
> pipe. Jack the wheel up and then remove the nut (hopefully you pulled
> the key and loosened it a bit before you jacked it up) and slide the
> wheel outward on to the pipe. Once the wheel is removed far enough, you
> put a stand under the axle and let the jack down. Remove the wheel and
> pipe and do what ever.
> I modified my axle nuts to do this in the future. There is not a
> good way to do tire repair or what ever with the fairings in place. I
> did not relish lifting the a/c at the wing. Its a cheep mod. A piece of
> pipe and a small jack with a jack stand is all you need.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)cebridge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Legs wheel replacement |
Dave,
I got this somewhere. Whoever came up with it should realy get the credit
but I don't know who that is. It seemed simple enough to duplicate that's
what I planed to do.
John D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Legs wheel replacement |
Brown tools or Avery sells it. I just saw it.
Mike H
----- Original Message -----
From: "John D. Heath" <altoq(at)cebridge.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Legs wheel replacement
> Dave,
>
> I got this somewhere. Whoever came up with it should realy get the credit
> but I don't know who that is. It seemed simple enough to duplicate that's
> what I planed to do.
>
> John D.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> |
On Oct 22, 2007, at 11:45 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
> Yea, I understand that. What you do is remove the little wheel
> pant bracket, place the jack inside the axle through the axle
> nut. After jacking it up you remove the axle nut and slide it
> onto the jack bracket pipe. You slide the wheel onto the jack
> bracket pipe as well then you can place a block or jackstand or
> something under the axle and let it down. This allows you to
> remove the wheel from the jack bracket to do whatever you need.
>
>
> Reverse to re-install.
>
>
> Tim
Thanks that makes sense.
dave
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Cudney
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 1:32 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Legs
>
>
> Tim:
>
>
> I'm having a hard time visualizing how you get the wheel off with
> the jack attached to the axle??? How does that work?
>
>
> dave
>
>
> On Oct 22, 2007, at 10:29 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>
> http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx
>
> I see they have the already modified axle nuts as well.
>
> http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-
> stand.aspx
>
> Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
>
> size=2 width="100%" align=center>
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Williams
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Gear Legs
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I'm getting stuff ready to do my first annual condition inspection
> on my recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT time
> flying!!) I want to change tires and was really nervous about the
> wing jack when I swapped tires 9 months ago. I was told to put a
> piece of pipe inside the landing gear strut before removing the nut
> and jack it up. Does anyone have their gear leg out in the open and
> could give me a measurement? Mine is all wrapped up in wheel pants
> and tough to get to right now. I think a 1" pipe is about right but
> need to know the inside diameter of the gear leg tube.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Greg
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-
> space"> --> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List_-
> ============================================================ _-
> forums.matronics.com_-
> ===========================================================
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Williams" <mr.gsun+rv-list(at)gmail.com> |
Hey Folks,
Thanks for all the replies. I'm looking for the right size pipe to use.
My thought is to weld a 16" piece of pipe to this old scissor jack that I
already have. It came out of some import car and is in good shape. It will
go low enough to slide the pipe in after the wheel pant and little bracket
are removed. That way it is always in my hangar ready for use. I wouldn't
ever worry about the pipe falling off the jack either. If a piece of 3/4"
sch 40 water pipe (7/8" OD) will work, I'll grind off the galvanizing, weld
it to the jack & slap some paint on it. If I can get something bigger in
there, that's better.
Anyone know or can easily measure the ID of that gear leg axle for me?
Greg
On 10/22/07, Dave Cudney wrote:
>
>
> On Oct 22, 2007, at 11:45 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> Yea, I understand that. What you do is remove the little wheel pant
> bracket, place the jack inside the axle through the axle nut. After
> jacking it up you remove the axle nut and slide it onto the jack bracket
> pipe. You slide the wheel onto the jack bracket pipe as well then you can
> place a block or jackstand or something under the axle and let it down.
> This allows you to remove the wheel from the jack bracket to do whatever you
> need.
>
>
> Reverse to re-install.
>
>
> Tim
>
>
> Thanks that makes sense.
>
> dave
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [
> mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]
> *On Behalf Of *Dave Cudney
> *Sent:* Monday, October 22, 2007 1:32 PM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Gear Legs
>
>
> Tim:
>
>
> I'm having a hard time visualizing how you get the wheel off with the jack
> attached to the axle??? How does that work?
>
>
> dave
>
>
> On Oct 22, 2007, at 10:29 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>
> http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx
>
> I see they have the already modified axle nuts as well.
>
>
> http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.aspx
>
> Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
> size=2 width="100%" align=center>
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [
> mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]
> *On Behalf Of *Greg Williams
> *Sent:* Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: Gear Legs
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I'm getting stuff ready to do my first annual condition inspection on my
> recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT time flying!!) I want
> to change tires and was really nervous about the wing jack when I swapped
> tires 9 months ago. I was told to put a piece of pipe inside the landing
> gear strut before removing the nut and jack it up. Does anyone have their
> gear leg out in the open and could give me a measurement? Mine is all
> wrapped up in wheel pants and tough to get to right now. I think a 1" pipe
> is about right but need to know the inside diameter of the gear leg tube.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Greg
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> * *
>
> * ** - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space"> --> http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> * - The RV-List Email Forum - class="Apple-converted-space"> *
>
> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List - NEW
> MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space"> -->
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
Hi Greg,
The hole in my axle nut based on the modification is 1=94 diameter. The
shaft
from the avery tool is =BE=94 diameter. I don=92t have an axle nut off
right now
so not sure of the size hole into it. Hope that helps.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Williams
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Legs
Hey Folks,
Thanks for all the replies. I'm looking for the right size pipe to
use.
My thought is to weld a 16" piece of pipe to this old scissor jack that
I
already have. It came out of some import car and is in good shape. It
will
go low enough to slide the pipe in after the wheel pant and little
bracket
are removed. That way it is always in my hangar ready for use. I
wouldn't
ever worry about the pipe falling off the jack either. If a piece of
3/4"
sch 40 water pipe (7/8" OD) will work, I'll grind off the galvanizing,
weld
it to the jack & slap some paint on it. If I can get something bigger
in
there, that's better.
Anyone know or can easily measure the ID of that gear leg axle for me?
Greg
On 10/22/07, Dave Cudney <
yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> wrote:
On Oct 22, 2007, at 11:45 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
Yea, I understand that. What you do is remove the little wheel pant
bracket, place the jack inside the axle through the axle nut. After
jacking it up you remove the axle nut and slide it onto the jack bracket
pipe. You slide the wheel onto the jack bracket pipe as well then you
can
place a block or jackstand or something under the axle and let it down.
This allows you to remove the wheel from the jack bracket to do whatever
you
need.
Reverse to re-install.
Tim
Thanks that makes sense.
dave
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [
mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Cudney
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Legs
Tim:
I'm having a hard time visualizing how you get the wheel off with the
jack
attached to the axle??? How does that work?
dave
On Oct 22, 2007, at 10:29 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
<http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx>
http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx
I see they have the already modified axle nuts as well.
<http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.
asp
x>
http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.a
spx
Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
size=2 width="100%" align=center>
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [
mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com ] On Behalf Of Greg Williams
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Gear Legs
Hi folks,
I'm getting stuff ready to do my first annual condition inspection on my
recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT time flying!!) I
want
to change tires and was really nervous about the wing jack when I
swapped
tires 9 months ago. I was told to put a piece of pipe inside the landing
gear strut before removing the nut and jack it up. Does anyone have
their
gear leg out in the open and could give me a measurement? Mine is all
wrapped up in wheel pants and tough to get to right now. I think a 1"
pipe
is about right but need to know the inside diameter of the gear leg
tube.
Thanks in advance.
Greg
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
<http://forums.matronics.com>
<http://forums.matronics.com>
http://forums.matronics.com
- NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space">
--> <http://forums.matronics.com>
http://forums.matronics.com
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
<http://forums.matronics.com>
http://forums.matronics.com
- The RV-List Email Forum - class="Apple-converted-space">
--> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
- NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
class="Apple-converted-space">
--> <http://forums.matronics.com>
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
Axle ID on my -6 gear legs is 7/8".
Doug Gray
> Anyone know or can easily measure the ID of that gear leg axle for me?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BRUCE GRAY <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
If anyone can help. I need someone that has the invoice of a finishing kit
to look up the proper nomenclature of the wheel axles and their price. I ne
ed this item omitted from the finishing kit and they have deducted $27.19.
I can't find the invoice that was sent with them for the life of me and nee
d to make this correction before the kit can be shipped.
TIA to anyone that can help,
Bruce Gray
RV8 Fuse
Wiring and panel work
_________________________________________________________________
Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You!
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Mersek" <1rv6flyer(at)internet49.com> |
| Subject: | Water/Moisture in Static System |
RV List,
The glass on my airspeed indicator is fogged up with moisture. I have
removed the static line from the back of the instrument and found
droplets of water in the line. I'm looking for suggestions on how to dry
out the airspeed indicator and removal of water from the system. I have
used compressed air to purge out the water droplets through the static
lines and put a small wattage heat lamp under the airspeed instrument
with no success. I am also concerned this moisture will migrate to my
Dynon D10A.
I first noticed the moisture two days after flying through a small rain
shower. I have 630 hours on my RV-6 and have flown it through rain
showers before, this is the first time I have ever had an issue with
moisture/water in the system.
I do not have the Cessna style static water sump collection bottle sold
by ACS installed in the static system and am considering installing one.
Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions.
Larry Mersek
N336RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Water/Moisture in Static System |
Hi Larry,
I installed that bottle and it solved my problem, which was similar to
yours. I put it at the low point in the back, behind the baggage
compartment, extended the static line all the way to the bottom of fuselage.
The line going from the bottle to the instruments is punched in to protrude
an inch inside making it easy to keep any drops from moving forward. Putting
that end of the bottle upward would do the same thing, but my connecter
broke on that end of the bottle so I turned it into an opportunity. Bottle
nipples are fragile. Since I live in South Florida with lots of humidity I
also installed two 60 watt light bulbs (wired in series to reduce effective
voltage per bulb) under the radio stack and plug them in to wall outlet in
the hanger. This keeps the moisture out of my radios, the series wiring
reduces the excessive heat a bulb would normally have in this confined area.
Prior to this I was getting problems with my transponder after a humid week.
No problems since.
Dale
RV6a 935 hrs, Lyc 0-360 A1A, Hartzell
Youtube videos channel name: "lionheart33026"
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Mersek
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Water/Moisture in Static System
RV List,
The glass on my airspeed indicator is fogged up with moisture. I have
removed the static line from the back of the instrument and found droplets
of water in the line. I'm looking for suggestions on how to dry out the
airspeed indicator and removal of water from the system. I have used
compressed air to purge out the water droplets through the static lines and
put a small wattage heat lamp under the airspeed instrument with no success.
I am also concerned this moisture will migrate to my Dynon D10A.
I first noticed the moisture two days after flying through a small rain
shower. I have 630 hours on my RV-6 and have flown it through rain showers
before, this is the first time I have ever had an issue with moisture/water
in the system.
I do not have the Cessna style static water sump collection bottle sold by
ACS installed in the static system and am considering installing one.
Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions.
Larry Mersek
N336RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear Legs wheel replacement |
| From: | Michael W Stewart <mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com> |
Yes,
Works as advertised. I got one of these a week ago and was able to easi
ly
change a tire with no swapping of jacks, blocks and so forth.
While its an expensive little bugger, im hoping between my use and loan
ing
out to buddies, it will pay for itself.
No reason why it would not work on all kinds of planes too. The pipe in
the
axle method requires a hollow axle. This gismo does not.
Link to site here that sells the "handy Jack". Site d/l time is ridicul
es
for some reason.
http://aviationtechproducts.com/html/products_pics.html#RVJACK
Best,
Mike
"John D. Heath"
To
Sent by:
owner-rv-list-ser
cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subj
ect
Re: RV-List: Gear Legs wheel
10/22/2007 04:22 replacement
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
Dave,
I got this somewhere. Whoever came up with it should realy get the cr
edit
but I don't know who that is. It seemed simple enough to duplicate that
's
what I planed to do.
John D.
[attachment "jack00215go6.jpg" deleted by Michael W Stewart/Atlanta/IBM
]
[attachment "img_1270.jpg" deleted by Michael W Stewart/Atlanta/IBM]
[attachment "img_1271.jpg" deleted by Michael W Stewart/Atlanta/IBM]
[attachment "img_1272.jpg" deleted by Michael W Stewart/Atlanta/IBM]
[attachment "img_1273.jpg" deleted by Michael W Stewart/Atlanta/IBM]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Water/Moisture in Static System |
Larry Mersek wrote:
> RV List,
>
> The glass on my airspeed indicator is fogged up with moisture. I have
> removed the static line from the back of the instrument and found
> droplets of water in the line. I'm looking for suggestions on how to
> dry out the airspeed indicator and removal of water from the system. I
> have used compressed air to purge out the water droplets through the
> static lines and put a small wattage heat lamp under the airspeed
> instrument with no success. I am also concerned this moisture will
> migrate to my Dynon D10A.
Remove the AS and place it in a box with a 100 watt bulb ..... so that
nothing is touching the bulb that will burn. The last is very important.
> I first noticed the moisture two days after flying through a small
> rain shower. I have 630 hours on my RV-6 and have flown it through
> rain showers before, this is the first time I have ever had an issue
> with moisture/water in the system.
>
> I do not have the Cessna style static water sump collection bottle
> sold by ACS installed in the static system and am considering
> installing one.
Probably the best option ..... or make your own. Get a plastic "T" that
fits your tubing, and glue it into the top of a pill bottle. They seal
pretty well. Be sure to label the pill bottle "EXPERIMENTAL" and mount
it where it's easily accessible with a 'low spot' at the pill bottle. ;-)
Linn
>
>
> Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions.
>
> Larry Mersek
> N336RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Legs wheel replacement |
I sense a reluctance by some to use a wing jack. I have been using a
wing jack on my 6A since day one. Is there a problem with wing jacks on
RVs that I may not be aware of.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael W Stewart
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Legs wheel replacement
Yes,
Works as advertised. I got one of these a week ago and was able to
easily change a tire with no swapping of jacks, blocks and so forth.
While its an expensive little bugger, im hoping between my use and
loaning out to buddies, it will pay for itself.
No reason why it would not work on all kinds of planes too. The pipe
in the axle method requires a hollow axle. This gismo does not.
Link to site here that sells the "handy Jack". Site d/l time is
ridicules for some reason.
http://aviationtechproducts.com/html/products_pics.html#RVJACK
Best,
Mike
"John D. Heath"
"John D. Heath"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/22/2007 04:22 PM Please respond to
rv-list(at)matronics.com
To
cc
Subject
Re: RV-List: Gear Legs wheel replacement
Dave,
I got this somewhere. Whoever came up with it should realy get the
credit
but I don't know who that is. It seemed simple enough to duplicate
that's
what I planed to do.
John D.
[attachment "jack00215go6.jpg" deleted by Michael W
Stewart/Atlanta/IBM] [attachment "img_1270.jpg" deleted by Michael W
Stewart/Atlanta/IBM] [attachment "img_1271.jpg" deleted by Michael W
Stewart/Atlanta/IBM] [attachment "img_1272.jpg" deleted by Michael W
Stewart/Atlanta/IBM] [attachment "img_1273.jpg" deleted by Michael W
Stewart/Atlanta/IBM]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tail Kit for RV6-7 |
| From: | Donald Nowakowski <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com> |
Folks. If anyone is interested there is a tail kit listed on E-bay. It says
RV-6 or 7. Take a look if interested. It's not mine, I just saw it and am
passing it on....don
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vans-Aircraft-RV-6-RV-7-RV6-RV7-Airplane-Plane-Tail-Kit_W0QQitemZ230182355463QQihZ013QQcategoryZ26438QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD6VQQcmdZViewItem
Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
Telephone (802)288-3359,
"More than anything else the sensation
is one of perfect peace mingled with
an excitement that strains every nerve
to the utmost, if you can conceive of such
a combination."
-- Wilbur
Wright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Gear Legs wheel replacement |
I have been using a wing jack, but am going to change to the cable/lever
type on axel. If sh__ happens it will be less to repair. Accidents are never
planned, right?
Happy landings,
Dale
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Ensing
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Legs wheel replacement
I sense a reluctance by some to use a wing jack. I have been using a wing
jack on my 6A since day one. Is there a problem with wing jacks on RVs that
I may not be aware of.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael W <mailto:mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com> Stewart
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Legs wheel replacement
Yes,
Works as advertised. I got one of these a week ago and was able to easily
change a tire with no swapping of jacks, blocks and so forth.
While its an expensive little bugger, im hoping between my use and loaning
out to buddies, it will pay for itself.
No reason why it would not work on all kinds of planes too. The pipe in the
axle method requires a hollow axle. This gismo does not.
Link to site here that sells the "handy Jack". Site d/l time is ridicules
for some reason.
http://aviationtechproducts.com/html/products_pics.html#RVJACK
Best,
Mike
Inactive hide details for "John D. Heath" "John D.
Heath"
"John D. Heath"
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/22/2007 04:22 PM
Please respond to
rv-list(at)matronics.com
To
cc
Subject
Re: RV-List: Gear Legs wheel replacement
Dave,
I got this somewhere. Whoever came up with it should realy get the credit
but I don't know who that is. It seemed simple enough to duplicate that's
what I planed to do.
John D.
[attachment "jack00215go6.jpg" deleted by Michael W Stewart/Atlanta/IBM]
[attachment "img_1270.jpg" deleted by Michael W Stewart/Atlanta/IBM]
[attachment "img_1271.jpg" deleted by Michael W Stewart/Atlanta/IBM]
[attachment "img_1272.jpg" deleted by Michael W Stewart/Atlanta/IBM]
[attachment "img_1273.jpg" deleted by Michael W Stewart/Atlanta/IBM]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com> |
Harbor Freight sells a 1500lb ATV/Motorcycle lift that will pick up the
whole airplane. I am using this on a Grumman Yankee (a.k.a. RV Trainer)
and it works great! I built a box to fit on the rails and topped it with
a piece of plywood and the pink hard foam from Home Depot. Just center
the lift under the CG and service all three wheels at once.
John Morgensen
RV-9A Fuselage plumbing
Grumman AA1B-150 (RV Trainer)
Greg Williams wrote:
> Hey Folks,
>
> Thanks for all the replies. I'm looking for the right size pipe to
> use. My thought is to weld a 16" piece of pipe to this old scissor jack
> that I already have. It came out of some import car and is in good
> shape. It will go low enough to slide the pipe in after the wheel pant
> and little bracket are removed. That way it is always in my hangar
> ready for use. I wouldn't ever worry about the pipe falling off the
> jack either. If a piece of 3/4" sch 40 water pipe (7/8" OD) will work,
> I'll grind off the galvanizing, weld it to the jack & slap some paint on
> it. If I can get something bigger in there, that's better.
>
> Anyone know or can easily measure the ID of that gear leg axle for me?
>
> Greg
>
> On 10/22/07, *Dave Cudney* < yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net
> > wrote:
>
>
> On Oct 22, 2007, at 11:45 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>> Yea, I understand that. What you do is remove the little wheel
>> pant bracket, place the jack inside the axle through the axle
>> nut. After jacking it up you remove the axle nut and slide it
>> onto the jack bracket pipe. You slide the wheel onto the jack
>> bracket pipe as well then you can place a block or jackstand or
>> something under the axle and let it down. This allows you to
>> remove the wheel from the jack bracket to do whatever you need.
>>
>>
>>
>> Reverse to re-install.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim
>>
>
> Thanks that makes sense.
>
> dave
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> * From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [
>> mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] * On Behalf Of *Dave Cudney
>> * Sent:* Monday, October 22, 2007 1:32 PM
>> * To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> * Subject:* Re: RV-List: Gear Legs
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim:
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm having a hard time visualizing how you get the wheel off with
>> the jack attached to the axle??? How does that work?
>>
>>
>>
>> dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Oct 22, 2007, at 10:29 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx
>>
>> I see they have the already modified axle nuts as well.
>>
>> http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.aspx
>>
>>
>> Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
>>
>> size=2 width="100%" align=center>
>>
>> * From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [
>> mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> ] * On Behalf Of *Greg
>> Williams
>> * Sent:* Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
>> * To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> * Subject:* RV-List: Gear Legs
>>
>> Hi folks,
>>
>> I'm getting stuff ready to do my first annual condition inspection
>> on my recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT time
>> flying!!) I want to change tires and was really nervous about the
>> wing jack when I swapped tires 9 months ago. I was told to put a
>> piece of pipe inside the landing gear strut before removing the
>> nut and jack it up. Does anyone have their gear leg out in the
>> open and could give me a measurement? Mine is all wrapped up in
>> wheel pants and tough to get to right now. I think a 1" pipe is
>> about right but need to know the inside diameter of the gear leg
>> tube.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Greg
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
>> *
>>
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com*
>> *
>>
>> *
>> *
>>
>> **
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space">
>> -->
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> *
>> *
>>
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
>> *
>> *
>> **
>> **
>> *
>> http://forums.matronics.com*
>> *
>> *
>> *
>>
>> *
>> *
>>
>> - The RV-List Email Forum - class="Apple-converted-space"> *
>> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List - NEW
>> MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space"> -->
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
>
> **
>
>
> **
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
Not a bad idea...
----- Original Message -----
From: John Morgensen
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Legs
Harbor Freight sells a 1500lb ATV/Motorcycle lift that will pick up
the
whole airplane. I am using this on a Grumman Yankee (a.k.a. RV
Trainer)
and it works great! I built a box to fit on the rails and topped it
with
a piece of plywood and the pink hard foam from Home Depot. Just center
the lift under the CG and service all three wheels at once.
John Morgensen
RV-9A Fuselage plumbing
Grumman AA1B-150 (RV Trainer)
Greg Williams wrote:
> Hey Folks,
>
> Thanks for all the replies. I'm looking for the right size pipe to
> use. My thought is to weld a 16" piece of pipe to this old scissor
jack
> that I already have. It came out of some import car and is in good
> shape. It will go low enough to slide the pipe in after the wheel
pant
> and little bracket are removed. That way it is always in my hangar
> ready for use. I wouldn't ever worry about the pipe falling off the
> jack either. If a piece of 3/4" sch 40 water pipe (7/8" OD) will
work,
> I'll grind off the galvanizing, weld it to the jack & slap some
paint on
> it. If I can get something bigger in there, that's better.
>
> Anyone know or can easily measure the ID of that gear leg axle for
me?
>
> Greg
>
> On 10/22/07, *Dave Cudney* < yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net
> > wrote:
>
>
> On Oct 22, 2007, at 11:45 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>> Yea, I understand that. What you do is remove the little wheel
>> pant bracket, place the jack inside the axle through the axle
>> nut. After jacking it up you remove the axle nut and slide it
>> onto the jack bracket pipe. You slide the wheel onto the jack
>> bracket pipe as well then you can place a block or jackstand or
>> something under the axle and let it down. This allows you to
>> remove the wheel from the jack bracket to do whatever you need.
>>
>>
>>
>> Reverse to re-install.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim
>>
>
> Thanks that makes sense.
>
> dave
>>
>>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> * From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [
>> mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] * On Behalf Of *Dave
Cudney
>> * Sent:* Monday, October 22, 2007 1:32 PM
>> * To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> * Subject:* Re: RV-List: Gear Legs
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim:
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm having a hard time visualizing how you get the wheel off
with
>> the jack attached to the axle??? How does that work?
>>
>>
>>
>> dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Oct 22, 2007, at 10:29 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx
>>
>> I see they have the already modified axle nuts as well.
>>
>>
http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.a
spx
>>
>>
>> Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
>>
>> size=2 width="100%" align=center>
>>
>> * From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [
>> mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> ] * On Behalf Of
*Greg
>> Williams
>> * Sent:* Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
>> * To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> * Subject:* RV-List: Gear Legs
>>
>> Hi folks,
>>
>> I'm getting stuff ready to do my first annual condition
inspection
>> on my recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT
time
>> flying!!) I want to change tires and was really nervous about
the
>> wing jack when I swapped tires 9 months ago. I was told to put
a
>> piece of pipe inside the landing gear strut before removing the
>> nut and jack it up. Does anyone have their gear leg out in the
>> open and could give me a measurement? Mine is all wrapped up in
>> wheel pants and tough to get to right now. I think a 1" pipe is
>> about right but need to know the inside diameter of the gear
leg
>> tube.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Greg
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
>> *
>>
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com*
>> *
>>
>> *
>> *
>>
>> **
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space">
>> -->
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> *
>> *
>>
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>> *
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
>> *
>> *
>> **
>> **
>> *
>> http://forums.matronics.com*
>> *
>> *
>> *
>>
>> *
>> *
>>
>> - The RV-List Email Forum - class="Apple-converted-space"> *
>> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List -
NEW
>> MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space"> -->
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
>
> **
>
>
> **
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Can you do that to an RV without damaging the bottom of the fuse?
Sam Buchanan
========
Konrad L. Werner wrote:
> Not a bad idea...
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Morgensen
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 4:28 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Legs
>
>
>
> Harbor Freight sells a 1500lb ATV/Motorcycle lift that will pick up the
> whole airplane. I am using this on a Grumman Yankee (a.k.a. RV Trainer)
> and it works great! I built a box to fit on the rails and topped it with
> a piece of plywood and the pink hard foam from Home Depot. Just center
> the lift under the CG and service all three wheels at once.
>
> John Morgensen
> RV-9A Fuselage plumbing
> Grumman AA1B-150 (RV Trainer)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Settle" <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net> |
John,
Got any pics?
-------------- Original message from John Morgensen : --------------
>
> Harbor Freight sells a 1500lb ATV/Motorcycle lift that will pick up the
> whole airplane. I am using this on a Grumman Yankee (a.k.a. RV Trainer)
> and it works great! I built a box to fit on the rails and topped it with
> a piece of plywood and the pink hard foam from Home Depot. Just center
> the lift under the CG and service all three wheels at once.
>
> John Morgensen
> RV-9A Fuselage plumbing
> Grumman AA1B-150 (RV Trainer)
>
> Greg Williams wrote:
> > Hey Folks,
> >
> > Thanks for all the replies. I'm looking for the right size pipe to
> > use. My thought is to weld a 16" piece of pipe to this old scissor jack
> > that I already have. It came out of some import car and is in good
> > shape. It will go low enough to slide the pipe in after the wheel pant
> > and little bracket are removed. That way it is always in my hangar
> > ready for use. I wouldn't ever worry about the pipe falling off the
> > jack either. If a piece of 3/4" sch 40 water pipe (7/8" OD) will work,
> > I'll grind off the galvanizing, weld it to the jack & slap some paint on
> > it. If I can get something bigger in there, that's better.
> >
> > Anyone know or can easily measure the ID of that gear leg axle for me?
> >
> > Greg
> >
> > On 10/22/07, *Dave Cudney* < yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net
> > > wrote:
> >
> >
> > On Oct 22, 2007, at 11:45 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
> >
> >> Yea, I understand that. What you do is remove the little wheel
> >> pant bracket, place the jack inside the axle through the axle
> >> nut. After jacking it up you remove the axle nut and slide it
> >> onto the jack bracket pipe. You slide the wheel onto the jack
> >> bracket pipe as well then you can place a block or jackstand or
> >> something under the axle and let it down. This allows you to
> >> remove the wheel from the jack bracket to do whatever you need.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Reverse to re-install.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Tim
> >>
> >
> > Thanks that makes sense.
> >
> > dave
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >> * From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [
> >> mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] * On Behalf Of *Dave Cudney
> >> * Sent:* Monday, October 22, 2007 1:32 PM
> >> * To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >> * Subject:* Re: RV-List: Gear Legs
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Tim:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I'm having a hard time visualizing how you get the wheel off with
> >> the jack attached to the axle??? How does that work?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> dave
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Oct 22, 2007, at 10:29 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx
> >>
> >> I see they have the already modified axle nuts as well.
> >>
> >>
> http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.aspx
> >>
> >>
> >> Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
> >>
> >> size=2 width="100%" align=center>
> >>
> >> * From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> [
> >> mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >> ] * On Behalf Of *Greg
> >> Williams
> >> * Sent:* Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
> >> * To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >> * Subject:* RV-List: Gear Legs
> >>
> >> Hi folks,
> >>
> >> I'm getting stuff ready to do my first annual condition inspection
> >> on my recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT time
> >> flying!!) I want to change tires and was really nervous about the
> >> wing jack when I swapped tires 9 months ago. I was told to put a
> >> piece of pipe inside the landing gear strut before removing the
> >> nut and jack it up. Does anyone have their gear leg out in the
> >> open and could give me a measurement? Mine is all wrapped up in
> >> wheel pants and tough to get to right now. I think a 1" pipe is
> >> about right but need to know the inside diameter of the gear leg
> >> tube.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
> >>
> >> Greg
> >>
> >> *
> >>
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >>
> >>
> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
> >> *
> >>
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com*
> >> *
> >>
> >> *
> >> *
> >>
> >> **
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space">
> >> -->
> >> http://forums.matronics.com
> >> *
> >> *
> >>
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >>
> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
> >> *
> >> *
> >> **
> >> **
> >> *
> >> http://forums.matronics.com*
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >>
> >> *
> >> *
> >>
> >> - The RV-List Email Forum - class="Apple-converted-space"> *
> >> --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List - NEW
> >> MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space"> -->
> >> http://forums.matronics.com
> >
> > *
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> > http://forums.matronics.com
> >
> > *
> >
> > **
> >
> >
> > **
>
>
>
>
John,
Got any pics?
-------------- Original message from John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>:
--------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: John
Morgensen
>
> Harbor Freight sells a 1500lb
ATV/Motorcycle lift that will pick up the
> whole airplane. I am using
this on a Grumman Yankee (a.k.a. RV Trainer)
> and it works great!
I built a box to fit on the rails and topped it with
> a piece of plywood
and the pink hard foam from Home Depot. Just center
> the lift under
the CG and service all three wheels at once.
>
> John Morgensen
> RV-9A Fuselage plumbing
> Grumman AA1B-150 (RV Trainer)
>
> Greg Williams wrote:
> > Hey Folks,
> >
>
> Thanks for all the replies. I'm looking for the right size pipe to
>
> use. My thought is to weld a 16" piece of
pipe
to this old scissor jack
> > that I already have. It came out of some import car and is in good
> > shape. It will go low enough to slide the pipe in after the wheel pant
> > and little bracket are removed. That way it is always in my hangar
> > ready for use. I wouldn't ever worry about the pipe falling off the
> > jack either. If a piece of 3/4" sch 40 water pipe (7/8" OD) will work,
> > I'll grind off the galvanizing, weld it to the jack & slap some paint on
> > it. If I can get something bigger in there, that's better.
> >
> > Anyone know or can easily measure the ID of that gear leg axle for me?
> >
> > Greg
> >
> > On 10/22/07, *Dave Cudney* < yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net
> > > wrote:
> >
> >
> > On Oct 22, 2007, at 11:45 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
> >
> >>
; Yea,
I understand that. What you do is remove the little wheel
> >> pant
bracket, place the jack inside the axle through the axle
> >>
nut. After jacking it up you remove the axle nut and slide it
> >>
onto the jack bracket pipe. You slide the wheel onto the jack
> >>
bracket pipe as well then you can place a block or jackstand or
> >>
something under the axle and let it down. This allows you to
>
>> remove the wheel from the jack bracket to do whatever you need.
>
>>
> >>
> >>
> >> Reverse to
re-install.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
Tim
> >>
> >
> > Thanks that makes sense.
> >
> > dave
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >> * From:* owner-rv-list-serve
r@matr
onics.com
> >> [
> >> mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] * On Behalf Of *Dave Cudney
> >> * Sent:* Monday, October 22, 2007 1:32 PM
> >> * To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> >> * Subject:* Re: RV-List: Gear Legs
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Tim:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I'm having a hard time visualizing how you get the wheel off with
> >> the jack attached to the axle??? How does that work?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> dave
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Oct 22, 2007, at 10:29 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.as
px
> >>
> >> I see they have the already modified axle nuts as well.
> >>
> >>
> http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.aspx
> >>
> >>
> >> Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
> >>
> >> size=2 width="100%" align=center>
> >>
> >> * From:* owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> >> [
> >> mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> >> ] * On Behalf Of *Greg
> >> Williams
> >> * Sent:* Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
> >> * To:* rv-list@matronics.com
> >> * Subject:* RV-List: Gear Legs
> >>
> >> Hi folks,
> >>
> >> I'm getting stuff rea
dy to
do my first annual condition inspection
> >> on my recently purchased,
completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT time
> >> flying!!) I want
to change tires and was really nervous about the
> >> wing jack
when I swapped tires 9 months ago. I was told to put a
> >> piece
of pipe inside the landing gear strut before removing the
> >>
nut and jack it up. Does anyone have their gear leg out in the
> >>
open and could give me a measurement? Mine is all wrapped up in
> >>
wheel pants and tough to get to right now. I think a 1" pipe is
>
>> about right but need to know the inside diameter of the gear leg
>
>> tube.
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
>
>>
> >> Greg
> >>
> >> *
> >>
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >>
> >&g
t;
> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
> >> *
> >>
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com*
> >> *
> >>
> >> *
> >> *
> >>
> >> **
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space">
> >> -->
> >> http://forums.matronics.com
> >> *
> >> *
> >>
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >> *
> >>
> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
> >> *
> >
> *
st uti
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com> |
Pictures:
The 1 1/2" hard pink foam gets poked by the odd nut sticking out but it
supports the weight of the plane without crushing. On the RV and the
Yankee, the CG is on the flat part of the bottom where the spar is
located. The top of my platform is about 18" x 40" or about 5 square
feet. The pressure on the bottom of the fuselage would be about 1200/5
or 240 lbs/sq.ft.
Bill Settle wrote:
> John,
>
>
>
> Got any pics?
>
>
>
>
> -------------- Original message from John Morgensen
> : --------------
>
>
> >
> > Harbor Freight sells a 1500lb ATV/Motorcycle lift that will pick
> up the
> > whole airplane. I am using this on a Grumman Yankee (a.k.a. RV
> Trainer)
> > and it works great! I built a box to fit on the rails and topped
> it with
> > a piece of plywood and the pink hard foam from Home Depot. Just
> center
> > the lift under the CG and service all three wheels at once.
> >
> > John Morgensen
> > RV-9A Fuselage plumbing
> > Grumman AA1B-150 (RV Trainer)
> >
> > Greg Williams wrote:
> > > Hey Folks,
> > >
> > > Thanks for all the replies. I'm looking for the right size pipe to
> > > use. My thought is to weld a 16" piece of pipe to this old
> scissor jack
> > > that I already have. It came out of some import car and is in good
> > > shape. It will go low enough to slide the pipe in after the
> wheel pant
> > > and little bracket are removed. That way it is always in my hangar
> > > ready for use. I wouldn't ever worry about the pipe falling off
> the
> > > jack either. If a piece of 3/4" sch 40 water pipe (7/8" OD)
> will work,
> > > I'll grind off the galvanizing, weld it to the jack & slap some
> paint on
> > > it. If I can get something bigger in there, that's better.
> > >
> > > Anyone know or can easily measure the ID of that gear leg axle
> for me?
> > >
> > > Greg
> > >
> > > On 10/22/07, *Dave Cudney* < yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net
> > > > wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > On Oct 22, 2007, at 11:45 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
> > >
> > >> ; Yea, I understand that. What you do is remove the little wheel
> > >> pant bracket, place the jack inside the axle through the axle
> > >> nut. After jacking it up you remove the axle nut and slide it
> > >> onto the jack bracket pipe. You slide the wheel onto the jack
> > >> bracket pipe as well then you can place a block or jackstand or
> > >> something under the axle and let it down. This allows you to
> > >> remove the wheel from the jack bracket to do whatever you need.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Reverse to re-install.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Tim
> > >>
> > >
> > > Thanks that makes sense.
> > >
> > > dave
> > >>
> > >>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> > >>
> > >> * From:* owner-rv-list-serve r@matr onics.com
> > >> [
> > >> mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] * On Behalf Of
> *Dave Cudney
> > >> * Sent:* Monday, October 22, 2007 1:32 PM
> > >> * To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >> * Subject:* Re: RV-List: Gear Legs
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Tim:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> I'm having a hard time visualizing how you get the wheel off with
> > >> the jack attached to the axle??? How does that work?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> dave
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> On Oct 22, 2007, at 10:29 AM, Tim Bryan wrote:
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.as px
> > >>
> > >> I see they have the already modified axle nuts as well.
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> http://www.averytools.com/p-179-modified-rv-axle-nuts-for-rv-jack-stand.aspx
>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Here are the brackets for wheel pant connection
> > >>
> > >> size=2 width="100%" align=center>
> > >>
> > >> * From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > >> [
> > >> mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > >> ] * On Behalf Of *Greg
> > >> Williams
> > >> * Sent:* Monday, October 22, 2007 11:57 AM
> > >> * To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > >> * Subject:* RV-List: Gear Legs
> > >>
> > >> Hi folks,
> > >>
> > >> I'm getting stuff rea dy to do my first annual condition
> inspection
> > >> on my recently purchased, completed RV7. (I'm having a GREAT time
> > >> flying!!) I want to change tires and was really nervous about the
> > >> wing jack when I swapped tires 9 months ago. I was told to put a
> > >> piece of pipe inside the landing gear strut before removing the
> > >> nut and jack it up. Does anyone have their gear leg out in the
> > >> open and could give me a measurement? Mine is all wrapped up in
> > >> wheel pants and tough to get to right now. I think a 1" pipe is
> > >> about right but need to know the inside diameter of the gear leg
> > >> tube.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks in advance.
> > >>
> > >> Greg
> > >>
> > >> *
> > >>
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >>
> > >&g t;
> > >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
> > >> *
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> http://forums.matronics.com*
> > >> *
> > >>
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >>
> > >> **
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - class="Apple-converted-space">
> > >> -->
> > >> http://forums.matronics.com
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >>
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >> *
> > >>
> > >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
> > >> *
> > > > * st uti
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Dalman <jdalman2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear Legs wheel replacementGear Legs wheel replacementGear |
Legs wheel replacement
I used a jack under the wing last night on my RV-8. We started to jack both
wings but realized the cg was forward of the jacking points when the tail
wheel started coming off the floor so we put some weight (carefully) on the
horizontal stabilizer and jacked one side at a time. Worked fine, was very
stable, and it allowed unencumbered access to the wheel.=0A=0AAs someone e
lse implied earlier, the wings support the entire weight of the plane when
we're flying and can support several times the planes weight when flying. B
esides, Dicky V. says that the tie down mount is fine for jacking the plane
. If he says it, it's probably true.=0A=0AJohn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Gear Legs wheel replacementGear Legs wheel replacementGear |
Legs wheel replacement
I should have elaborated when I posted my comments about the jack. I did
post about using my wings for lifting each and every time I fly. I have
absolutely no aversion to using wing jacks. The problem for me is I never
really need to lift the whole plane but typically only a wheel. I don't own
any wing jacks and they are a bit more expensive than I want to pay. They
also take up some extra room in the hangar. I have access to borrow them
but it would take me longer to go transport them for use than to just use
the little rig from Avery or one of the others as mentioned. I have seen
methods for jacking with a floor jack and some blocking to the wing but that
doesn't appeal to me.
This is probably the main reason why many of us choose to use something
other than wing jacks. If you have them available by all means use them.
This is just my opinion however and I know there are others. Someone
mentioned if something goes wrong and that is probably valid also. Any
plane lifted regardless of the method needs to be secured. A wing jack is
probably more secure than lifting the wheel with some form of pipe or avery
rig. Make sure your plane is sufficiently choked.
If your plane is nose heavy when picked up by the jack points I would sure
double check my weight and balance. I am not saying either way because I
don't know, but it would seem a little forward. Of course with a pilot in
there it would be different. Were the tanks full?
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dalman
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Legs wheel replacementGear Legs wheel
replacementGear Legs wheel replacement
I used a jack under the wing last night on my RV-8. We started to jack both
wings but realized the cg was forward of the jacking points when the tail
wheel started coming off the floor so we put some weight (carefully) on the
horizontal stabilizer and jacked one side at a time. Worked fine, was very
stable, and it allowed unencumbered access to the wheel.
As someone else implied earlier, the wings support the entire weight of the
plane when we're flying and can support several times the planes weight when
flying. Besides, Dicky V. says that the tie down mount is fine for jacking
the plane. If he says it, it's probably true.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Chambers" <smc2putt(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Tip-up gas struts |
FYI,
The tip-up canopy struts supplied by Van's are Lift-O-Mat PN/752818.
Van's price is approximately $23 per strut, which turns out to be a
fairly competitive price. I shopped hard on the Internet and basically
matched this price from various suppliers. Van isn't such a bad guy
after all!!
Steve Chambers N99ST RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New product annoucement |
| From: | "=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net> |
Fellow RV builders,
I'm pleased to annouce we have added two new models to the Safety-Trim product
family. In addition to our standard features of time limited servo control,
adjustable speed control, emergency reverse and simplified pilot/co-pilot wiring
we now have models with that provide 2 user adjustable preset speeds. This
feature allows you to control your trim response based on aircraft performance.
This feature is especially useful in aircraft with a large performance envelope
such as the RVs.
For all the details please visit our website. www.tcwtech.com
Thanks,
Bob Newman. Rv-10
#40176
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron trailing edge skislope effect |
Greetings listers,
I'm working on my ailerons (RV-7A) and seem to be getting a skislope effect at
the trailing edge near the ribs. Some places are worse than others. You can
see what I mean by checking the third photo here:
http://www.our7a.com/20071015.html
or the second and third photos here:
http://www.our7a.com/20071024.html
Any thoughts on what's causing this?
It seems to like the trailing edge bend may not be in exactly the right
location.
I sent this very question to Van's and got the following response:
"Mike,
I looked at your aileron trailing edge photo and it is not perfect, but it's
acceptable and within tolerance. It will not cause you any flight problems.
Bruce Reynolds
brucer(at)vansaircraft.com"
Although it's nice to know that it's still safe, I really need a *solution*.
Thanks,
Mike Cencula
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron trailing edge skislope effect |
Mike,
It couldn't hurt to order another rib for the worst ski slope end to see
if that improves the fit.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael D.
Cencula
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 7:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron trailing edge skislope effect
Greetings listers,
I'm working on my ailerons (RV-7A) and seem to be getting a skislope
effect at
the trailing edge near the ribs. Some places are worse than others.
You can
see what I mean by checking the third photo here:
http://www.our7a.com/20071015.html
or the second and third photos here:
http://www.our7a.com/20071024.html
Any thoughts on what's causing this?
It seems to like the trailing edge bend may not be in exactly the right
location.
I sent this very question to Van's and got the following response:
"Mike,
I looked at your aileron trailing edge photo and it is not perfect, but
it's
acceptable and within tolerance. It will not cause you any flight
problems.
Bruce Reynolds
brucer(at)vansaircraft.com"
Although it's nice to know that it's still safe, I really need a
*solution*.
Thanks,
Mike Cencula
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron trailing edge skislope effect |
On 17:15 2007-10-24 "Michael D. Cencula" wrote:
> Although it's nice to know that it's still safe, I really need a
> *solution*.
Some alternatives:
1. Make a new rib for the worst location, drilling holes to match the skins.
2. Remove the clecoes from the worst rib, and drill new holes that match
the skins in the spaces between each of the existing holes. When you get
to painting, fill the unriveted holes and then paint over them.
3. (Van's suggestion) Drive the rivets as-is, and rig the plane to fly
straight and true once you're done.
Personally I wouldn't go looking for extra work, but if pushed i'd probably
opt for option 1.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron trailing edge skislope effect |
Mike,
The trailing edge doesn't look too bad to me. However, you really will not
know if it causes a trim problem until you fly the airplane. The shape can
be perfect to the eye but still require altering because of a "heavy wing".
Initially my 6A flew hands off perfectly until I had the plane painted.
After checking all the alignment points of both ailerons, the gear leg
fairing etc., only thing I found was an impression on the top of the right
aileron midway along the trailing edge. It looked like someone in the paint
shop picked up the aileron by the trailing edge and put a slight
dent/depression in the top skin right where a thump would have squeezed it.
Following Van's procedure for correcting a heavy wing,
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Heavy.pdf, I had to reduce the radius
of the right aileron trailing edge and increase the radius of the left
aileron trailing edge to get back to the 'hands off' trim I had before
painting.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
EAA TC & FA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 8:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Aileron trailing edge skislope effect
>
>
> Greetings listers,
>
> I'm working on my ailerons (RV-7A) and seem to be getting a skislope
> effect at
> the trailing edge near the ribs. Some places are worse than others. You
> can
> see what I mean by checking the third photo here:
>
> http://www.our7a.com/20071015.html
>
> or the second and third photos here:
>
> http://www.our7a.com/20071024.html
>
> Any thoughts on what's causing this?
>
> It seems to like the trailing edge bend may not be in exactly the right
> location.
>
> I sent this very question to Van's and got the following response:
>
> "Mike,
> I looked at your aileron trailing edge photo and it is not perfect, but
> it's
> acceptable and within tolerance. It will not cause you any flight
> problems.
> Bruce Reynolds
> brucer(at)vansaircraft.com"
>
> Although it's nice to know that it's still safe, I really need a
> *solution*.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Cencula
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron trailing edge skislope effect |
I believe I have seen this issue before and it was traced to skins that were
bent wrong and Van replaced them. You may want to check with Ken.
Carl W Bell
New Venture Consulting
Mobile: 803.640.2760
www.newventureconsulting.com
carlbell(at)gforcecable.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Prior
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron trailing edge skislope effect
On 17:15 2007-10-24 "Michael D. Cencula" wrote:
> Although it's nice to know that it's still safe, I really need a
> *solution*.
Some alternatives:
1. Make a new rib for the worst location, drilling holes to match the skins.
2. Remove the clecoes from the worst rib, and drill new holes that match
the skins in the spaces between each of the existing holes. When you get
to painting, fill the unriveted holes and then paint over them.
3. (Van's suggestion) Drive the rivets as-is, and rig the plane to fly
straight and true once you're done.
Personally I wouldn't go looking for extra work, but if pushed i'd probably
opt for option 1.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | using wing jacks |
For you guys using wing jacks.Do you put the jack
against the tiedown ring,or use a pillow and platform arrangement?
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: using wing jacks |
I use a 2x4 block drilled out to go over the moving part of the jack.
Then that is covered with a rubber mat material for softness.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Inman 204 287 8334" <ghinman(at)mts.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 8:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: using wing jacks
>
>
> For you guys using wing jacks.Do you put the jack
> against the tiedown ring,or use a pillow and platform arrangement?
>
> --
>
> George H. Inman
> ghinman(at)mts.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | using wing jacks |
Short steel bolt with the same thread as the tiedown used as a hardpoint.
Or you can go the Lancair route and machine a cup to fit over the jack with
a stud to screw into the tiedown mount. I've also found that I can use my
engine hoist to lift at the steps; good for getting a main wheel up. I can
get the nose wheel up by connecting the tail tiedown to a tiedown point with
a come-along and pulling the tail down.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - gluing the tip-up canopy in place
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Inman 204
287 8334
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 7:19 AM
Subject: RV-List: using wing jacks
For you guys using wing jacks.Do you put the jack
against the tiedown ring,or use a pillow and platform arrangement?
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | using wing jacks |
I too just use a grade 8 bolt threaded into the tie down blocks. This will not
let the plane slip off the jacks, at least not with my arrangement.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: "George Inman 204 287 8334" <ghinman(at)mts.net>
Sent: 10/25/07 10:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: using wing jacks
For you guys using wing jacks.Do you put the jack
against the tiedown ring,or use a pillow and platform arrangement?
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: using wing jacks |
Geoge,
This suggestion assumes aviation style wing jacks are being used. Failing
that jack stability is a must.
Get two 2" or 3" x 3/8" national course bolts. cut off the heads. Remove
the Van's tie down rings. screw in the headless bolts. If needed modify the
jack stand by drilling a shallow hole (depression) to accept the headless
bolts.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Inman 204 287 8334" <ghinman(at)mts.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 7:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: using wing jacks
>
>
> For you guys using wing jacks.Do you put the jack
> against the tiedown ring,or use a pillow and platform arrangement?
>
> --
>
> George H. Inman
> ghinman(at)mts.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Best Prices Offered Anywhere |
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To Order Call: 401-228-6677
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Mersek" <1rv6flyer(at)internet49.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Water/Moisture in Static System |
Linn,
Thank you for your helpful response, it is much appreciated. I was
hoping to purge the moisture without removing the ASI but it looks like
I will have to remove it, I like your idea of placing it in a box. The
pill bottle is a good idea too!
--Larry
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
----- Original Message -----
From: linn Walters
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Water/Moisture in Static System
Larry Mersek wrote:
RV List,
The glass on my airspeed indicator is fogged up with moisture. I
have removed the static line from the back of the instrument and found
droplets of water in the line. I'm looking for suggestions on how to dry
out the airspeed indicator and removal of water from the system. I have
used compressed air to purge out the water droplets through the static
lines and put a small wattage heat lamp under the airspeed instrument
with no success. I am also concerned this moisture will migrate to my
Dynon D10A.
Remove the AS and place it in a box with a 100 watt bulb ..... so that
nothing is touching the bulb that will burn. The last is very
important.
I first noticed the moisture two days after flying through a small
rain shower. I have 630 hours on my RV-6 and have flown it through rain
showers before, this is the first time I have ever had an issue with
moisture/water in the system.
I do not have the Cessna style static water sump collection bottle
sold by ACS installed in the static system and am considering installing
one.
Probably the best option ..... or make your own. Get a plastic "T"
that fits your tubing, and glue it into the top of a pill bottle. They
seal pretty well. Be sure to label the pill bottle "EXPERIMENTAL" and
mount it where it's easily accessible with a 'low spot' at the pill
bottle. ;-)
Linn
Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions.
Larry Mersek
N336RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: using wing jacks |
| From: | cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com |
Vans sells a kit that includes a attachment for the gear legs (a hose clamp will
work) and
2 screw in jack points for the wings.....I have grove gear so the gear leg attachments
don't do much for
me but the jack points are wonderful.
Sal
RV8 N898SC
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Sent: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 11:19 am
Subject: Re: RV-List: using wing jacks
?
I use a 2x4 block drilled out to go over the moving part of the jack.?
?
Then that is covered with a rubber mat material for softness.?
?
Ron Lee?
?
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Inman 204 287 8334" <ghinman(at)mts.net>?
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 8:18 AM?
Subject: RV-List: using wing jacks?
?
>?
>?
>?
> For you guys using wing jacks.Do you put the jack?
> against the tiedown ring,or use a pillow and platform arrangement??
>?
> --
>?
> George H. Inman?
> ghinman(at)mts.net?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
> ?
?
?
?
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Mersek" <1rv6flyer(at)internet49.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Water/Moisture in Static System |
Dale,
Thanks for your helpful reply. I did order the bottle and will install
once I get the moisture purged out of the system. Good idea with the
light bulbs.
--Larry
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Walter
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 9:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Water/Moisture in Static System
Hi Larry,
I installed that bottle and it solved my problem, which was similar to
yours. I put it at the low point in the back, behind the baggage
compartment, extended the static line all the way to the bottom of
fuselage. The line going from the bottle to the instruments is punched
in to protrude an inch inside making it easy to keep any drops from
moving forward. Putting that end of the bottle upward would do the same
thing, but my connecter broke on that end of the bottle so I turned it
into an opportunity. Bottle nipples are fragile. Since I live in South
Florida with lots of humidity I also installed two 60 watt light bulbs
(wired in series to reduce effective voltage per bulb) under the radio
stack and plug them in to wall outlet in the hanger. This keeps the
moisture out of my radios, the series wiring reduces the excessive heat
a bulb would normally have in this confined area. Prior to this I was
getting problems with my transponder after a humid week. No problems
since.
Dale
RV6a 935 hrs, Lyc 0-360 A1A, Hartzell
Youtube videos channel name: "lionheart33026"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Mersek
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 11:45 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Water/Moisture in Static System
RV List,
The glass on my airspeed indicator is fogged up with moisture. I have
removed the static line from the back of the instrument and found
droplets of water in the line. I'm looking for suggestions on how to dry
out the airspeed indicator and removal of water from the system. I have
used compressed air to purge out the water droplets through the static
lines and put a small wattage heat lamp under the airspeed instrument
with no success. I am also concerned this moisture will migrate to my
Dynon D10A.
I first noticed the moisture two days after flying through a small
rain shower. I have 630 hours on my RV-6 and have flown it through rain
showers before, this is the first time I have ever had an issue with
moisture/water in the system.
I do not have the Cessna style static water sump collection bottle
sold by ACS installed in the static system and am considering installing
one.
Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions.
Larry Mersek
N336RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Young" <teyoung1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New product annoucement |
I'd be interested to know if anyone has tried a two-speed setup using a
5-position inline switch like this (51MX down at the bottom):
http://www.machinecomp.com/js_sa.htm
First position, slow, push it a little farther, fast. It might be one of
those ideas that seems clever but isn't, but I can't really see why it
wouldn't work. Any thoughts?
Tom Young
RV-4, long, long way to go
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Newman" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 1:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: New product annoucement
>
>
> Fellow RV builders,
>
> I'm pleased to annouce we have added two new models to the Safety-Trim
> product family. In addition to our standard features of time limited
> servo control, adjustable speed control, emergency reverse and simplified
> pilot/co-pilot wiring we now have models with that provide 2 user
> adjustable preset speeds. This feature allows you to control your trim
> response based on aircraft performance. This feature is especially
> useful in aircraft with a large performance envelope such as the RVs.
> For all the details please visit our website. www.tcwtech.com
>
> Thanks,
> Bob Newman. Rv-10
> #40176
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: using wing jacks |
I use the jack points that Van's sells with his Jackpoint Kit. They appear
to be a hard plastic and screw into the wing tie down points.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1193337723-284-291&browse=airframe&product=jackpoint
The wing jack is cupped and the jackpoint fits in very nicely.
Dale Ensing
> For you guys using wing jacks.Do you put the jack
> against the tiedown ring,or use a pillow and platform arrangement?
> George H. Inman
> ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron trailing edge skislope effect |
After looking at the pictures, I don't see the problem. If this is
all you have to be worried about, then you are building a real fine RV.
My RV has some cosmetic imperfections, dents, smiles, scratches
whatever, now 5 years into flying, things that I thought were so
important, I can not even find them, let alone allow it to bother me.
This is sort of in the category of "who cares?" I would never have
noticed without the straight edge in the picture. If you are
building for flying, then move on, if you are building an Award
Winner that will be exhibited in some technical museum, keep redoing
it until it is perfect.
If after flying the RV for a few years and it still bothers you, then
rebuild it. But, by then you will be having way too much fun to
worry about cosmetic accuracy.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
At 07:15 PM 10/24/07, you wrote:
>
>Greetings listers,
>
>I'm working on my ailerons (RV-7A) and seem to be getting a skislope
>effect at
>the trailing edge near the ribs. Some places are worse than others.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New product annoucement |
| From: | "=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net> |
Tom, The component you found is a multi-position switch. Although it can select
multiple actions it has no way of providing any speed control function on
its own. Additionally, it does not provide any of the valuable features of Safety-Trim,
such as the time limited servo drive, or simplified pilot/co-pilot
wiring.
-Bob Newman
TCW Technolgies
www.tcwtech.com
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Tom Young" <teyoung1(at)comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 12:48:11
To:
Subject: Re: RV-List: New product annoucement
I'd be interested to know if anyone has tried a two-speed setup using a
5-position inline switch like this (51MX down at the bottom):
http://www.machinecomp.com/js_sa.htm
First position, slow, push it a little farther, fast. It might be one of
those ideas that seems clever but isn't, but I can't really see why it
wouldn't work. Any thoughts?
Tom Young
RV-4, long, long way to go
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Newman" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 1:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: New product annoucement
>
>
> Fellow RV builders,
>
> I'm pleased to annouce we have added two new models to the Safety-Trim
> product family. In addition to our standard features of time limited
> servo control, adjustable speed control, emergency reverse and simplified
> pilot/co-pilot wiring we now have models with that provide 2 user
> adjustable preset speeds. This feature allows you to control your trim
> response based on aircraft performance. This feature is especially
> useful in aircraft with a large performance envelope such as the RVs.
> For all the details please visit our website. www.tcwtech.com
>
> Thanks,
> Bob Newman. Rv-10
> #40176
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: gear legs wheel replacement |
| From: | joelrhaynes(at)aol.com |
If your plane is nose heavy when picked up by the jack points I would sure
double check my weight and balance. I am not saying either way because I
don't know, but it would seem a little forward. Of course with a pilot in
there it would be different. Were the tanks full?
You want your airplane to be nose heavy when you jack it up by the jack points.?
That means the CG is where it is supposed to be.? Remember?aerodynamics 101:?the
wings lift and the tail gets pushed down in flight.
Joel Haynes
RV-7A N557XW
Bozeman, MT
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Young" <teyoung1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New product annoucement |
I wasn't suggesting that, I was suggesting using that switch with your
two-speed box (or two of the Matronix boxes and a relay) to provide the
multispeed capability at the pilot's fingertips in a single switch, rather
than using a separate switch actuated by the flaps or somesuch.
- Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Newman" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: New product annoucement
>
>
> Tom, The component you found is a multi-position switch. Although it
> can select multiple actions it has no way of providing any speed control
> function on its own. Additionally, it does not provide any of the
> valuable features of Safety-Trim, such as the time limited servo drive, or
> simplified pilot/co-pilot wiring.
>
> -Bob Newman
> TCW Technolgies
> www.tcwtech.com
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Tom Young" <teyoung1(at)comcast.net>
>
> Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 12:48:11
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: New product annoucement
>
>
> I'd be interested to know if anyone has tried a two-speed setup using a
> 5-position inline switch like this (51MX down at the bottom):
>
> http://www.machinecomp.com/js_sa.htm
>
> First position, slow, push it a little farther, fast. It might be one of
> those ideas that seems clever but isn't, but I can't really see why it
> wouldn't work. Any thoughts?
>
> Tom Young
> RV-4, long, long way to go
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Newman" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net>
> To: "Matronics list" ; "Matronics list"
>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 1:54 PM
> Subject: RV-List: New product annoucement
>
>
>>
>>
>> Fellow RV builders,
>>
>> I'm pleased to annouce we have added two new models to the Safety-Trim
>> product family. In addition to our standard features of time limited
>> servo control, adjustable speed control, emergency reverse and simplified
>> pilot/co-pilot wiring we now have models with that provide 2 user
>> adjustable preset speeds. This feature allows you to control your trim
>> response based on aircraft performance. This feature is especially
>> useful in aircraft with a large performance envelope such as the RVs.
>> For all the details please visit our website. www.tcwtech.com
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bob Newman. Rv-10
>> #40176
>>
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | New product annoucement |
I used a simple 2 position switch that connects a wire that by passes a
resistor that slows down my pitch trim. When switch is closed the resistor
is ineffective and I have fast trim. Now I have 2 speed trim, all I need.
(KISS)
Dale
RV6a 935 hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Young
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: New product annoucement
I wasn't suggesting that, I was suggesting using that switch with your
two-speed box (or two of the Matronix boxes and a relay) to provide the
multispeed capability at the pilot's fingertips in a single switch, rather
than using a separate switch actuated by the flaps or somesuch.
- Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Newman" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: New product annoucement
>
>
> Tom, The component you found is a multi-position switch. Although it
> can select multiple actions it has no way of providing any speed control
> function on its own. Additionally, it does not provide any of the
> valuable features of Safety-Trim, such as the time limited servo drive, or
> simplified pilot/co-pilot wiring.
>
> -Bob Newman
> TCW Technolgies
> www.tcwtech.com
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Tom Young" <teyoung1(at)comcast.net>
>
> Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 12:48:11
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: New product annoucement
>
>
> I'd be interested to know if anyone has tried a two-speed setup using a
> 5-position inline switch like this (51MX down at the bottom):
>
> http://www.machinecomp.com/js_sa.htm
>
> First position, slow, push it a little farther, fast. It might be one of
> those ideas that seems clever but isn't, but I can't really see why it
> wouldn't work. Any thoughts?
>
> Tom Young
> RV-4, long, long way to go
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Newman" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net>
> To: "Matronics list" ; "Matronics list"
>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 1:54 PM
> Subject: RV-List: New product annoucement
>
>
>>
>>
>> Fellow RV builders,
>>
>> I'm pleased to annouce we have added two new models to the Safety-Trim
>> product family. In addition to our standard features of time limited
>> servo control, adjustable speed control, emergency reverse and simplified
>> pilot/co-pilot wiring we now have models with that provide 2 user
>> adjustable preset speeds. This feature allows you to control your trim
>> response based on aircraft performance. This feature is especially
>> useful in aircraft with a large performance envelope such as the RVs.
>> For all the details please visit our website. www.tcwtech.com
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bob Newman. Rv-10
>> #40176
>>
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | New product annoucement |
While your system is interesting, my elevator trim motor draws 2-3 amps, my
roll trim is under 1 amp but the elevator is not.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Newman
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: New product annoucement
Tom, The component you found is a multi-position switch. Although it can
select multiple actions it has no way of providing any speed control
function on its own. Additionally, it does not provide any of the valuable
features of Safety-Trim, such as the time limited servo drive, or simplified
pilot/co-pilot wiring.
-Bob Newman
TCW Technolgies
www.tcwtech.com
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Tom Young" <teyoung1(at)comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 12:48:11
To:
Subject: Re: RV-List: New product annoucement
I'd be interested to know if anyone has tried a two-speed setup using a
5-position inline switch like this (51MX down at the bottom):
http://www.machinecomp.com/js_sa.htm
First position, slow, push it a little farther, fast. It might be one of
those ideas that seems clever but isn't, but I can't really see why it
wouldn't work. Any thoughts?
Tom Young
RV-4, long, long way to go
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Newman" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 1:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: New product annoucement
>
>
> Fellow RV builders,
>
> I'm pleased to annouce we have added two new models to the Safety-Trim
> product family. In addition to our standard features of time limited
> servo control, adjustable speed control, emergency reverse and simplified
> pilot/co-pilot wiring we now have models with that provide 2 user
> adjustable preset speeds. This feature allows you to control your trim
> response based on aircraft performance. This feature is especially
> useful in aircraft with a large performance envelope such as the RVs.
> For all the details please visit our website. www.tcwtech.com
>
> Thanks,
> Bob Newman. Rv-10
> #40176
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New product annoucement |
| From: | "=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net> |
Oh, sorry I mis-understood. With the Safety-Trim two speed controller you only
need a simple SPST switch to activate the two speeds. The switch just grounds
the "two-speed input" wire or leaves it open. The safety-trim control
box does the rest. The switch can easily be a simple manual switch on the instrument
panel.
-thanks,
Bob Newman.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Tom Young" <teyoung1(at)comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 15:28:43
To:
Subject: Re: RV-List: New product annoucement
I wasn't suggesting that, I was suggesting using that switch with your
two-speed box (or two of the Matronix boxes and a relay) to provide the
multispeed capability at the pilot's fingertips in a single switch, rather
than using a separate switch actuated by the flaps or somesuch.
- Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Newman" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: New product annoucement
>
>
> Tom, The component you found is a multi-position switch. Although it
> can select multiple actions it has no way of providing any speed control
> function on its own. Additionally, it does not provide any of the
> valuable features of Safety-Trim, such as the time limited servo drive, or
> simplified pilot/co-pilot wiring.
>
> -Bob Newman
> TCW Technolgies
> www.tcwtech.com
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Tom Young" <teyoung1(at)comcast.net>
>
> Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 12:48:11
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: New product annoucement
>
>
> I'd be interested to know if anyone has tried a two-speed setup using a
> 5-position inline switch like this (51MX down at the bottom):
>
> http://www.machinecomp.com/js_sa.htm
>
> First position, slow, push it a little farther, fast. It might be one of
> those ideas that seems clever but isn't, but I can't really see why it
> wouldn't work. Any thoughts?
>
> Tom Young
> RV-4, long, long way to go
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Newman" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net>
> To: "Matronics list" ; "Matronics list"
>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 1:54 PM
> Subject: RV-List: New product annoucement
>
>
>>
>>
>> Fellow RV builders,
>>
>> I'm pleased to annouce we have added two new models to the Safety-Trim
>> product family. In addition to our standard features of time limited
>> servo control, adjustable speed control, emergency reverse and simplified
>> pilot/co-pilot wiring we now have models with that provide 2 user
>> adjustable preset speeds. This feature allows you to control your trim
>> response based on aircraft performance. This feature is especially
>> useful in aircraft with a large performance envelope such as the RVs.
>> For all the details please visit our website. www.tcwtech.com
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bob Newman. Rv-10
>> #40176
>>
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New product annoucement |
| From: | "=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net> |
Bruce, can you provide me a brand /model # or any other info about your elevator
trim servo. We have not yet run into that limitation before and like to fully
understand it. If there's room to offer another product that drives a common
higher current servo we'd like to look into it.
Thanks,
Bob Newman.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 17:49:41
To:
Subject: RE: RV-List: New product annoucement
While your system is interesting, my elevator trim motor draws 2-3 amps, my
roll trim is under 1 amp but the elevator is not.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Newman
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: New product annoucement
Tom, The component you found is a multi-position switch. Although it can
select multiple actions it has no way of providing any speed control
function on its own. Additionally, it does not provide any of the valuable
features of Safety-Trim, such as the time limited servo drive, or simplified
pilot/co-pilot wiring.
-Bob Newman
TCW Technolgies
www.tcwtech.com
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Tom Young" <teyoung1(at)comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 12:48:11
To:
Subject: Re: RV-List: New product annoucement
I'd be interested to know if anyone has tried a two-speed setup using a
5-position inline switch like this (51MX down at the bottom):
http://www.machinecomp.com/js_sa.htm
First position, slow, push it a little farther, fast. It might be one of
those ideas that seems clever but isn't, but I can't really see why it
wouldn't work. Any thoughts?
Tom Young
RV-4, long, long way to go
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Newman" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 1:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: New product annoucement
>
>
> Fellow RV builders,
>
> I'm pleased to annouce we have added two new models to the Safety-Trim
> product family. In addition to our standard features of time limited
> servo control, adjustable speed control, emergency reverse and simplified
> pilot/co-pilot wiring we now have models with that provide 2 user
> adjustable preset speeds. This feature allows you to control your trim
> response based on aircraft performance. This feature is especially
> useful in aircraft with a large performance envelope such as the RVs.
> For all the details please visit our website. www.tcwtech.com
>
> Thanks,
> Bob Newman. Rv-10
> #40176
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gear legs wheel replacement |
Huh??@*&??
I have been jacking my RV up for five years at the tiedown points and
never has the tailwheel left the ground.
I must be violating aerodynamics 101, of course I do not believe that
Bernoulli was right!
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
>If your plane is nose heavy when picked up by the jack points I would sure
>double check my weight and balance. I am not saying either way because I
>don't know, but it would seem a little forward. Of course with a pilot in
>there it would be different. Were the tanks full?
>
>
>You want your airplane to be nose heavy when you jack it up by the
>jack points. That means the CG is where it is supposed to
>be. Remember aerodynamics 101: the wings lift and the tail gets
>pushed down in flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear Legs wheel replacement |
| From: | "Bubblehead" <jdalman2000(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm not sure why Bob with the RV-6 has not had a problem, although maybe an RV-6
is different in this way.
I think my cg is right where it needs to be. I looked at my weight and balance
charts and found out:
The main gear wheels are at 68.76"
CG of plane, no pilot, with half fuel is 77.8. Since this is aft of the mains and
forward of the tail wheel the plane sits fine on the ground.
Since the fuel cg is at 80", and the jacking location is aft of the fuel, I would
guess the tie down/jacking hole is about 85" aft of datum. I'm not at the airplane
so am just guessing at this.
Since the jacking position is between the cg and tail wheel, it takes load off
the tail wheel and will ultimately lift if off the ground.
--------
John Dalman
Elburn, IL
RV-8 N247TD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=141954#141954
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Harrison" <jharrison46(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | for sale: RV9 tail kit and tools |
For sale: RV9 tail kit with electric trim. I am located in a western suburb
of Chicago. I can't pack it so someone will have to be in driving distance.
I also bought the Cleaveland tool kit for RV's including a pneumatic
squeezer. The tools are barely used. $1300 for the tail kit and $2100 for
tools. More info: jharrison46atgmaildotcom
*
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
*
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Safety-Trim update |
| From: | "=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net> |
Fellow RV builders, many have asked about on-line ordering of our products.
I'm pleased to announce our On-line order feature is now up and running.
Please visit our web site for all the details on Safety-Trim.
www.tcwtech.com
Thanks,
Bob Newman.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Rob Ray
Lists: Rocket-List,RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Bigger Tires
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.10.27.2007/index.html
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
All ye RV-6/6A builders:
Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed the
aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you have a
different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last time
tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out of
the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting rail
and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel.
The bellcrank mounting rails, if you recall, are 1.5 inches apart and the
bellcrank is centered between them. Van's old plans call for an AN3-10A
bolt, thick washer and stop nut but that's obviously wrong. I checked my
rail spacing just to be sure and yes I built them to the plans. So...I
switched the bolt to an AN3-7 and with the thick washer and stop nut there
is 2-3 threads sticking out of the stop nut. The bellcrank rotates freely
but looking at the clearance between the end of the bolt and the bottom rail
I would guess about 1/16 of an inch is all I have.
This makes me nervous, the bellcrank mounting rails are 1/8 inch thick and
that area is pretty stout but, the rod ends mount into the outer ends of the
bellcrank itself (two pieces of 1/16 plate spaced apart by thick AN3 bolt
washers in 4 places plus the center bearing mount acting as a spacer). If
there is much flexing in the outer ends of the bellcrank in flight then it
might be possible for the bolt end to come in contact with the mounting rail
and ruin my day (life).
I looked at going to an AN3-6A bolt but it doesn't look like there will be
ANY threads sticking out of the stop nut when it's tightend (if I'm lucky
and use a thin washer, I might get the threads to edge of the nylon in the
end of the stop nut). Also if I used the -6A bolt I'll be violating the
"grip length rules" (unthreaded bolt shank will not go all the way through
the parts I'm bolting). Anyone remember having this problem? Did you use the
-6A bolt or.... the -7A and live with the close clearances? How critical is
it to adhere to the "grip length" rules?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
If I'd quit running into crazy crap like this I'd be done now!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
> The bellcrank mounting rails, if you recall, are 1.5 inches apart and
> the
> bellcrank is centered between them.
Yes I remember this well and solved it at the time I built the wings.
The clearance was so small I feared that even with a modest wing loads
it may interfere and lock the ailerons!
I was told the popular solution is to go for the shorter bolt and thin
nut. Perhaps a castle nut with split-pin may be better.
My fix was to remake the spacers so the bellcrank is no longer centered
but offset sufficiently to allow the bolt to clear the support angle.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
If the grip length is a concern, try this: Use the correct length bolt,
with a thin washer under the nut. Put a combination of thick/ thin
washers under the bolt head (up to 3) that will give you just enough
thread showing on the nut. You should have plenty of clearance for the
bolt head, so raising it up a bit won't hurt.
Or, you could use a thin locknut.
Jeff Point
RV-6 flying
RV-8 building
Milwaukee
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
Would this problem apply to an RV-4 as well? I just picked up a
second-hand wing kit and I'm curious if I will have the same concerns at
that time when I get them built...
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Jeff Point wrote:
>
> If the grip length is a concern, try this: Use the correct length
> bolt, with a thin washer under the nut. Put a combination of thick/
> thin washers under the bolt head (up to 3) that will give you just
> enough thread showing on the nut. You should have plenty of clearance
> for the bolt head, so raising it up a bit won't hurt.
>
> Or, you could use a thin locknut.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 flying
> RV-8 building
> Milwaukee
>
>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
Dean,
Greetings from your old stomping grounds in (currently) sunny Oregon... Wish
you'd have posted this yesterday when my wing ports were off, but here goes.
I don't recall that fuss with my bellcranks, but then again, memory ain't so
good, too much alum dust I guess...
If you;re worried about the 1/16" clearance, try flexing the bellcrank by
hand sideways and see if you can make it hang up. If everything is snugged up so
there is no slop, I can't see you having a problem. Hard to imagine flight
loads severe enough to deflect the B-crank that much, and if so, can't see it
getting stuck in that kind of position. If I go to hangar next couple days
I'll take one of my ports off and see what I did. I'd stick with whatever bolt
lets you see at least one thread past the nut and keeps the proper shank
length. I have some thin AN3 stop nuts if you need a couple. You can also use
high temp, smaller stop nuts in that situation. I've done that a couple times
when clearance or access was an issue...
HTH & YMMV...
Regards,
Jerry Cochran
In a message dated 10/28/2007 12:00:08 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank
All ye RV-6/6A builders:
Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed the
aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you have a
different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last time
tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out of
the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting rail
and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel.
The bellcrank mounting rails, if you recall, are 1.5 inches apart and the
bellcrank is centered between them. Van's old plans call for an AN3-10A
bolt, thick washer and stop nut but that's obviously wrong. I checked my
rail spacing just to be sure and yes I built them to the plans. So...I
switched the bolt to an AN3-7 and with the thick washer and stop nut there
is 2-3 threads sticking out of the stop nut. The bellcrank rotates freely
but looking at the clearance between the end of the bolt and the bottom rail
I would guess about 1/16 of an inch is all I have.
This makes me nervous, the bellcrank mounting rails are 1/8 inch thick and
that area is pretty stout but, the rod ends mount into the outer ends of the
bellcrank itself (two pieces of 1/16 plate spaced apart by thick AN3 bolt
washers in 4 places plus the center bearing mount acting as a spacer). If
there is much flexing in the outer ends of the bellcrank in flight then it
might be possible for the bolt end to come in contact with the mounting rail
and ruin my day (life).
I looked at going to an AN3-6A bolt but it doesn't look like there will be
ANY threads sticking out of the stop nut when it's tightend (if I'm lucky
and use a thin washer, I might get the threads to edge of the nylon in the
end of the stop nut). Also if I used the -6A bolt I'll be violating the
"grip length rules" (unthreaded bolt shank will not go all the way through
the parts I'm bolting). Anyone remember having this problem? Did you use the
-6A bolt or.... the -7A and live with the close clearances? How critical is
it to adhere to the "grip length" rules?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
If I'd quit running into crazy crap like this I'd be done now!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper) |
| Subject: | Re: gear legs wheel replacement |
"I have been jacking my RV up for five years at the tiedown points and
never has the tailwheel left the ground."
Does your hanger face into a headwind?!!
Pete Cowper
RV-8 #81139 (working on fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
Make a new set of bellcrank spacers to provide clearance for the AN3-10A
bolt between the mounting angles.
Steve
RV-6A
built two sets of spacers myself........the first set per plans, and the
second set to provide bolt clearance...............doesn't everyone do
this? :-)
>
> All ye RV-6/6A builders:
>
> Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed the
> aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you have a
> different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last time
> tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
> its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
> AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
> installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out of
> the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting rail
> and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel. ....................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
For years, I thought this was unique to my plane...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve" <stevea(at)svpal.org>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank
>
> Make a new set of bellcrank spacers to provide clearance for the AN3-10A
> bolt between the mounting angles.
>
> Steve
> RV-6A
> built two sets of spacers myself........the first set per plans, and the
> second set to provide bolt clearance...............doesn't everyone do
> this? :-)
>
>
>>
>>
>> All ye RV-6/6A builders:
>>
>> Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed
>> the
>> aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you
>> have a
>> different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last
>> time
>> tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
>> its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
>> AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
>> installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out
>> of
>> the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting
>> rail
>> and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel. ....................
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting |
We went from Atlanta to College Station, TX this weekend to see my
wife's Aggies play (and lose to) Kansas..
Today, we made the return trip.
And about 30 miles from home the engine lost a little power (~100 rpm).
Some in-flight troubleshooting showed that the Electroair ignition that
I have on the right side had quit. I flipped the on/off switch several
times, reset the breaker, etc. and the ignition didn't come back to
life. That being the case, I left it off for the remainder of the flight
and made sure to stay high enough to glide to an airstrip if the other
ignition system (a magneto) decided to take the day off too.
And once we landed, I flipped it back on and voila', it was working
fine. Which was a good thing. Sorta...
Because troubleshooting an intermittent problem is a pain in the tuckus.
I plan to check all of the connections between the battery, the breaker,
the switch, and the ignition system. I'll check the ground connections
too. Beyond that, I'll call the folks who are now supporting the
ignition and see if they have any ideas.
Any other thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
N46KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Mounting-clocking |
Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for the life of
me remember which position it looks like when stopped..when looking at it from
the cockpit, is the high blade on the left or right? i.e. the blade you can
see should be in the 10:00 or 2:00 position when viewed from the cockpit?
Thanks.
Paul Besing
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
Must be a secret society!
Linn
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ & Marilyn" <rmkeith(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting |
It sounds like the electronic ignition is getting hot and shutting down.
I have a friend with a 9A that had a similar problem. The problem was
the blast tubes for cooling the E-mag was not positioned correctly.
Russ Keith
Slow build 9A
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 8:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
We went from Atlanta to College Station, TX this weekend to see my
wife's Aggies play (and lose to) Kansas..
Today, we made the return trip.
And about 30 miles from home the engine lost a little power (~100
rpm). Some in-flight troubleshooting showed that the Electroair
ignition that I have on the right side had quit. I flipped the on/off
switch several times, reset the breaker, etc. and the ignition didn't
come back to life. That being the case, I left it off for the remainder
of the flight and made sure to stay high enough to glide to an airstrip
if the other ignition system (a magneto) decided to take the day off
too.
And once we landed, I flipped it back on and voila', it was working
fine. Which was a good thing. Sorta...
Because troubleshooting an intermittent problem is a pain in the
tuckus.
I plan to check all of the connections between the battery, the
breaker, the switch, and the ignition system. I'll check the ground
connections too. Beyond that, I'll call the folks who are now
supporting the ignition and see if they have any ideas.
Any other thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
N46KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Prop Mounting-clocking |
This message was very strange. I have a preview feature on my computer that
lets me see incoming messages superimposed over the screen I'm working on.
Paul's question was there on the preview screen but empty here. I don't get
it.
Dave
RV6
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 6:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting |
Is the control unit in the engine compartment or cockpit? Some have had
problems with wire fatigue right where they exit the mag timing housing. My
controller is mounted inside, above the rudder pedals and have monitored
temperature with digital sensor going to my Grand Rapids EIS and never had
temps above 130 F (and no blast tubes on it). I thought E-mag was a much
different animal vs Electroair?
Dale
RV6a 938 hrs
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Marilyn
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
It sounds like the electronic ignition is getting hot and shutting down. I
have a friend with a 9A that had a similar problem. The problem was the
blast tubes for cooling the E-mag was not positioned correctly.
Russ Keith
Slow build 9A
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle <mailto:kboatright1(at)comcast.net> Boatright
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 8:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
We went from Atlanta to College Station, TX this weekend to see my wife's
Aggies play (and lose to) Kansas..
Today, we made the return trip.
And about 30 miles from home the engine lost a little power (~100 rpm).
Some in-flight troubleshooting showed that the Electroair ignition that I
have on the right side had quit. I flipped the on/off switch several times,
reset the breaker, etc. and the ignition didn't come back to life. That
being the case, I left it off for the remainder of the flight and made sure
to stay high enough to glide to an airstrip if the other ignition system (a
magneto) decided to take the day off too.
And once we landed, I flipped it back on and voila', it was working fine.
Which was a good thing. Sorta...
Because troubleshooting an intermittent problem is a pain in the tuckus.
I plan to check all of the connections between the battery, the breaker, the
switch, and the ignition system. I'll check the ground connections too.
Beyond that, I'll call the folks who are now supporting the ignition and see
if they have any ideas.
Any other thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
N46KB
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting |
Sounds similar to my electroair troubles:
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2004/10/more_ignition_w_1.html
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2005/03/electronic_igni.html
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2005/04/electronic_igni_1.html
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
*From:* Kyle Boatright
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, October 28, 2007 8:33 PM
> *Subject:* RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
>
> We went from Atlanta to College Station, TX this weekend to see my
> wife's Aggies play (and lose to) Kansas..
>
> Today, we made the return trip.
>
> And about 30 miles from home the engine lost a little power (~100 rpm).
> Some in-flight troubleshooting showed that the Electroair ignition that I
> have on the right side had quit. I flipped the on/off switch several times,
> reset the breaker, etc. and the ignition didn't come back to life. That
> being the case, I left it off for the remainder of the flight and made sure
> to stay high enough to glide to an airstrip if the other ignition system (a
> magneto) decided to take the day off too.
>
> And once we landed, I flipped it back on and voila', it was working fine.
> Which was a good thing. Sorta...
>
> Because troubleshooting an intermittent problem is a pain in the tuckus.
>
> I plan to check all of the connections between the battery, the breaker,
> the switch, and the ignition system. I'll check the ground connections
> too. Beyond that, I'll call the folks who are now supporting the ignition
> and see if they have any ideas.
>
> Any other thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kyle Boatright
> N46KB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting |
The coils (and control unit) are in the engine compartment. Today was
nice and cool (probably 32F at our cruising altitude), so I tend to
discount heat as an issue, since I probably have a couple of hundred
hours on this system in 80F+ ambient conditions. Beyond that, we had
been in a reduced power descent for about 5 minutes when the system quit
working, so things should have been cooling off at that time.
I'll take a look at the timing housing wires. Never heard of that
problem, but the number of these units in the field is relatively small,
so forums like this are an outstanding place to share information and
document a service history on 'em.
As far as I know, there is little or no commonality between the E-mag
and Electroair systems.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Walter
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 10:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
Is the control unit in the engine compartment or cockpit? Some have
had problems with wire fatigue right where they exit the mag timing
housing. My controller is mounted inside, above the rudder pedals and
have monitored temperature with digital sensor going to my Grand Rapids
EIS and never had temps above 130 F (and no blast tubes on it). I
thought E-mag was a much different animal vs Electroair?
Dale
RV6a 938 hrs
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Marilyn
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:27 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
It sounds like the electronic ignition is getting hot and shutting
down. I have a friend with a 9A that had a similar problem. The problem
was the blast tubes for cooling the E-mag was not positioned correctly.
Russ Keith
Slow build 9A
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 8:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
We went from Atlanta to College Station, TX this weekend to see my
wife's Aggies play (and lose to) Kansas..
Today, we made the return trip.
And about 30 miles from home the engine lost a little power (~100
rpm). Some in-flight troubleshooting showed that the Electroair
ignition that I have on the right side had quit. I flipped the on/off
switch several times, reset the breaker, etc. and the ignition didn't
come back to life. That being the case, I left it off for the remainder
of the flight and made sure to stay high enough to glide to an airstrip
if the other ignition system (a magneto) decided to take the day off
too.
And once we landed, I flipped it back on and voila', it was working
fine. Which was a good thing. Sorta...
Because troubleshooting an intermittent problem is a pain in the
tuckus.
I plan to check all of the connections between the battery, the
breaker, the switch, and the ignition system. I'll check the ground
connections too. Beyond that, I'll call the folks who are now
supporting the ignition and see if they have any ideas.
Any other thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
N46KB
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.m
atronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
The message didn't show up in Thunderbird, but in Kontact it does. Anyway,
here's his question:
On Sunday October 28 2007 09:13:49 pm Paul Besing wrote:
> Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for the
> life of me remember which position it looks like when stopped..when looking
> at it from the cockpit, is the high blade on the left or right? i.e. the
> blade you can see should be in the 10:00 or 2:00 position when viewed from
> the cockpit?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Paul Besing
>
>
> __________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
Ok..try it again..here goes.
Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for the
life of me remember which position it looks like when stopped..when
looking at it from the cockpit, is the high blade on the left or
right? i.e. the blade you can see should be in the 10:00 or 2:00
position when viewed from the cockpit?
Thanks.
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 6:13:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
Mine is on the right (2 O'Clock) as I look out the windshield. An easy
way is to stand in front of the plane like you are going to hand prop.
Which feels the best?
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Michael D. Cencula wrote:
>
>The message didn't show up in Thunderbird, but in Kontact it does. Anyway,
>here's his question:
>
>On Sunday October 28 2007 09:13:49 pm Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
>>Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for the
>>life of me remember which position it looks like when stopped..when looking
>>at it from the cockpit, is the high blade on the left or right? i.e. the
>>blade you can see should be in the 10:00 or 2:00 position when viewed from
>>the cockpit?
>>
>>Thanks.
>>
>>Paul Besing
>>
>>
>>
>>__________________________________________________
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
Mine (and most I see) stop at the 2:00 position as seen from the
cockpit. This is convenient for hand propping if you're so inclined.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
Ok..try it again..here goes.
Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for
the life of me remember which position it looks like when stopped..when
looking at it from the cockpit, is the high blade on the left or right?
i.e. the blade you can see should be in the 10:00 or 2:00 position when
viewed from the cockpit?
Thanks.
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 6:13:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
How else does one start an airplane??? ;)
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Kyle Boatright wrote:
> This is convenient for hand propping if you're so inclined.
>
> KB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Flamini, Dennis, Fran" <flamini2(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: 160 HP 0-320-H2AD |
i bought a wrecked Acro II last weekend in central Michagan.
The plane lost power and landed hard on an upslope.
The prop hit the ground in a horiz. position, i looked at the engine
unassembled
and think it would be a great buy for someone.
It was overhauled by Wag Aero and had 370 hrs SMOH when it crashed in
Aug 2005.
No carb or mag.
The owner does not want to ship it so it would have to be picked up, i
could help ship it
but i am 200 miles away myself.
i was thinking the Michigan guys might want to take a look at it.
He wants $2,500 for it.
i attached a photo of the plane wreck.
Dennis in Chicago
PS, i was all ready to go back and pick it up but my Wife noted that
i already have 2 1/2 biplanes in the garage and an engine in the
basement.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
FWIW, 10:00 when viewed from the cockpit. If you ever want to hand prop
it, that's the best position .... which is 2:00 when you're facing the
prop. It doesn't matter what the 'stopping' position is .... if you're
propping it, you want the rising blade to pass through 2:00 when the
impulse fires at TDC. With the mags off (and a set of plugs removed is
better) you can pull the prop through to see what position it's in when
the impulse clicks.
Linn
Paul Besing wrote:
> Ok..try it again..here goes.
>
>
> Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for
> the life of me remember which position it looks like when
> stopped..when looking at it from the cockpit, is the high blade on the
> left or right? i.e. the blade you can see should be in the 10:00 or
> 2:00 position when viewed from the cockpit?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Paul Besing
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 6:13:49 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6/6A Trivia-Wing Bellcrank |
Dean,
I think the general consensus was to offset the bell crank a bit to create a
more comfortable clearance. If memory serves, I think I ground down one
spacer and added thin washers to the opposite side rather than make new
spacers from scratch.
Steve dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
capsteve(at)adelphia.net
All ye RV-6/6A builders:
Think waaaay back when you built your wings (actually when you installed the
aileron bellcranks and pushrods). RV-7/8/9 builders don't apply, you have a
different bellcrank set up. Anyway, I was installing this for the last time
tonight and ran into a problem. The bellcrank installed in the mount with
its quarter inch bolt (and washers/spacers) ok. But when I installed the
AN3-10A bolt in the hole in the where the pushrod (rod end) goes, (and
installed a thick washer and nylock nut), the amount of bolt sticking out of
the nut created interference with the bottom (angle aluminum) mounting rail
and the bellcrank couldn't move full travel.
The bellcrank mounting rails, if you recall, are 1.5 inches apart and the
bellcrank is centered between them. Van's old plans call for an AN3-10A
bolt, thick washer and stop nut but that's obviously wrong. I checked my
rail spacing just to be sure and yes I built them to the plans. So...I
switched the bolt to an AN3-7 and with the thick washer and stop nut there
is 2-3 threads sticking out of the stop nut. The bellcrank rotates freely
but looking at the clearance between the end of the bolt and the bottom rail
I would guess about 1/16 of an inch is all I have.
This makes me nervous, the bellcrank mounting rails are 1/8 inch thick and
that area is pretty stout but, the rod ends mount into the outer ends of the
bellcrank itself (two pieces of 1/16 plate spaced apart by thick AN3 bolt
washers in 4 places plus the center bearing mount acting as a spacer). If
there is much flexing in the outer ends of the bellcrank in flight then it
might be possible for the bolt end to come in contact with the mounting rail
and ruin my day (life).
I looked at going to an AN3-6A bolt but it doesn't look like there will be
ANY threads sticking out of the stop nut when it's tightend (if I'm lucky
and use a thin washer, I might get the threads to edge of the nylon in the
end of the stop nut). Also if I used the -6A bolt I'll be violating the
"grip length rules" (unthreaded bolt shank will not go all the way through
the parts I'm bolting). Anyone remember having this problem? Did you use the
-6A bolt or.... the -7A and live with the close clearances? How critical is
it to adhere to the "grip length" rules?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
If I'd quit running into crazy crap like this I'd be done now!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Settle" <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting |
Larry,
What are you planning on using on your 7?
-------------- Original message from "Larry Bowen" : --------------
Sounds similar to my electroair troubles:
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2004/10/more_ignition_w_1.html
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2005/03/electronic_igni.html
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2005/04/electronic_igni_1.html
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
From: Kyle Boatright
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 8:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
We went from Atlanta to College Station, TX this weekend to see my wife's Aggies
play (and lose to) Kansas..
Today, we made the return trip.
And about 30 miles from home the engine lost a little power (~100 rpm). Some in-flight
troubleshooting showed that the Electroair ignition that I have on the
right side had quit. I flipped the on/off switch several times, reset the breaker,
etc. and the ignition didn't come back to life. That being the case, I
left it off for the remainder of the flight and made sure to stay high enough
to glide to an airstrip if the other ignition system (a magneto) decided to take
the day off too.
And once we landed, I flipped it back on and voila', it was working fine. Which
was a good thing. Sorta...
Because troubleshooting an intermittent problem is a pain in the tuckus.
I plan to check all of the connections between the battery, the breaker, the switch,
and the ignition system. I'll check the ground connections too. Beyond
that, I'll call the folks who are now supporting the ignition and see if they
have any ideas.
Any other thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
N46KB
Larry,
What are you planning on using on your 7?
-------------- Original message from "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>: --------------
Sounds similar to my electroair troubles:
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2004/10/more_ignition_w_1.html
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2005/03/electronic_igni.html
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/2005/04/electronic_igni_1.html
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Sent:
Sunday, October 28, 2007 8:33 PM
Subject:
RV-List: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting
We went from Atlanta to College Station, TX this weekend
to see my wife's Aggies play (and lose to) Kansas..
Today, we made the return trip.
And about 30 miles from home the engine lost a
little power (~100 rpm). Some in-flight troubleshooting showed
that the Electroair ignition that I have on the right side had quit.
I flipped the on/off switch several times, reset the breaker, etc. and the
ignition didn't come back to life. That being the case, I left it
off for the remainder of the flight and made sure to stay high
enough to glide to an airstrip if the other ignition system (a magneto) decided
to take the day off too.
And once we landed, I flipped it back on and voila',
it was working fine. Which was a good thing. Sorta...
Because troubleshooting an intermittent problem is
a pain in the tuckus.
I plan to check all of the connections between the
battery, the breaker, the switch, and the ignition system. I'll check the
ground connections too. Beyond that, I'll call the folks who are now
supporting the ignition and see if they have any ideas.
Any other thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright
N46KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting |
Check the variable reluctance pickup for low resistance or open circuit. If
that checks out check the gap between the gear and the pickup. This is the
part that tends to break over time in the Electroair systems.
I was flying over the middle of Lake Michigan when mine did the same thing.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Prop Mounting-clocking |
Linn-
>FWIW, 10:00 when viewed from the cockpit. If you ever want to hand prop
>it, that's the best position .... which is 2:00 when you're facing the
>prop.
I though you had a Pitts, not a Moth.... ;-)
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Brooks <brooksrv6(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Problem - Troubleshooting |
If you monitor all 4 EGT's check them if it happens again to see if it's th
e whole unit, or just a coil. The temps should increase on the cylinders fi
ring only one plug.
Chris
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook ' together at last. -
Get it now.
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL10062
6971033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Williams" <mr.gsun+rv-list(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: using wing jacks |
I used the hard plastic jackpoint with a borrowed wingjack. Worked great.
Then I got worried that the plastic would shatter and the wing would jam
down on the jack and make a big dent. So I got a short bolt w/same threads
and used that with some help one side at a time to dismount and rotate my
tires to even out the wear. Still I had this worry that somehow, someway
the jack would come off and drive itself up thru the beautiful, fragile wing
structure. A nightmare in real life!! That's why I wanted something that
would jack up the landing gear itself.
Now, after a bunch of landings (some better than others), I'm going to
replace tires & tubes. I got a piece of 3/4 steel rod to weld to the top of
my scissor jack. Also bent a short piece of 3/8 rod to weld on for a
cranking handle. Hope to weld and paint it today because it isn't going to
be georgeous flying weather in Western Washington until later in the week.
Anyone got a great source for tires? Michelins are on there now and they
work fine.
Greg
On 10/25/07, Dale Ensing wrote:
>
>
> I use the jack points that Van's sells with his Jackpoint Kit. They appear
> to be a hard plastic and screw into the wing tie down points.
>
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1193337723-284-291&browse=airframe&product=jackpoint
>
> The wing jack is cupped and the jackpoint fits in very nicely.
> Dale Ensing
>
> > For you guys using wing jacks.Do you put the jack
> > against the tiedown ring,or use a pillow and platform arrangement?
> > George H. Inman
> > ghinman(at)mts.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "L Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Denver Area - Hangar Space for lease |
My hangar mate of several year has sold his RV-6 and I now have a very nice, heated
space for rent.
Location is at KFTG - Front Range Airport - which is user friendly ( no waiting
for traffic, lots of private planes etc) and has one of the lower fuel prices
in the greater Denver area.
If interested send me an off-list e-mail or call my at (303) 984-4469.
Lothar Klingmuller, RV-6A, 750 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: using wing jacks |
Greg Williams wrote:
> I used the hard plastic jackpoint with a borrowed wingjack. Worked great.
> Then I got worried that the plastic would shatter and the wing would jam
> down on the jack and make a big dent. So I got a short bolt w/same threads
> and used that with some help one side at a time to dismount and rotate my
> tires to even out the wear. Still I had this worry that somehow, someway
> the jack would come off and drive itself up thru the beautiful, fragile wing
> structure. A nightmare in real life!! That's why I wanted something that
> would jack up the landing gear itself.
Seeing a jack go through a wing is indeed a real nightmare! We had this
happen to a local -6A, and fortunately (?!?) the jack *only* penetrated
the bottom skin without damaging either the spar or fuel tank. But it
was a mess and very disheartening to deal with.
I don't recall how the jack was attached to the wing but since an RV can
be readily jacked up via a gear leg, and a jack failure is more or less
a minor event when jacking a gear leg, I have *no* desire to use a jack
on the wing.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
Ok, there is a vote for each...any one care to make a tie breaker?
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 10:20:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
FWIW, 10:00 when viewed from the cockpit. If you ever want to hand
prop it, that's the best position .... which is 2:00 when you're facing
the prop. It doesn't matter what the 'stopping' position is .... if
you're propping it, you want the rising blade to pass through 2:00 when
the impulse fires at TDC. With the mags off (and a set of plugs
removed is better) you can pull the prop through to see what position
it's in when the impulse clicks.
Linn
Paul Besing wrote:
Ok..try
it again..here goes.
Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for the
life of me remember which position it looks like when stopped..when
looking at it from the cockpit, is the high blade on the left or
right? i.e. the blade you can see should be in the 10:00 or 2:00
position when viewed from the cockpit?
Thanks.
Paul Besing
-----
Original Message ----
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 6:13:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
| From: | dougpflyrv(at)aol.com |
2? o'clock viewd from the cockpit
dp
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 11:09 am
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
Ok, there is a vote for each...any one care to make a tie breaker?
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 10:20:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
FWIW, 10:00 when viewed from the cockpit.? If you ever want to hand
prop it, that's the best position .... which is 2:00 when you're facing
the prop.? It doesn't matter what the 'stopping' position is .... if
you're propping it, you want the rising blade to pass through 2:00 when
the impulse fires at TDC.? With the mags off (and a set of plugs
removed is better) you can pull the prop through to see what position
it's in when the impulse clicks.
Linn
Paul Besing wrote:
Ok..try
it again..here goes.
Ok, silly question...my prop needs to be re mounted and I can't for the
life of me remember which position it looks like when stopped..when
looking at it from the cockpit, is the high blade on the left or
right?? i.e. the blade you can see should be in the 10:00 or 2:00
position when viewed from the cockpit?
Thanks.
Paul Besing
-----
Original Message ----
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 6:13:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Mounting-clocking
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
Paul Besing wrote:
> Ok, there is a vote for each...any one care to make a tie breaker?
>
> Paul Besing
Paul, the high blade will be at the 2:00 position when viewed from the
cockpit (10:00 when facing the prop during a hand-start).
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
Paul Besing wrote:
> Ok, there is a vote for each...any one care to make a tie breaker?
>
> Paul Besing
Paul, the high blade will be at the 2:00 position when viewed from the
cockpit (10:00 when facing the prop during a hand-start).
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting-clocking |
Paul,
It's 2:00 viewed from the cockpit. I've propped many airplanes and
that has always been the orientation. I can't imagine trying to prop
one by somehow twisting my body and flipping up on the prop.
The prop usually stops between compressions so as you pull down on
the prop you will be going though a compression, which is what you
want. The impulse coupler works on each and every compression.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
October 10, 2007 - October 29, 2007
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ta