RV-Archive.digest.vol-te
December 10, 2007 - December 26, 2007
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "Michael Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 7:01 AM
| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
>
>
> I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for information on
> what type of hanger lighting to install. The ceilings will be 16' tall
> and it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting throughout. Also,
> if anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 Flying
> RV-10 wiring
>
>
> --
> 12/9/2007 11:06 AM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
I just read through all the replies to this post and
being an electrician, here is my .02.
I would not mount the fixtures at 16 feet. The light
amount does disperse geometrically. Use fixture chain
and lower the fixtures to 12 inches above the rudder
or highest point of the aircraft. Consider that you
will have to change the lamps sooner or later. If
unheated, use cold weather ballasts. Reflectors make
a big difference unless you like lighting the ceiling.
If you will be doing a lot of maintenance, consider
mounting a row of lights on each side of the hangar
walls horizontally at about 4 feet from the floor. All
the light in the world shining down will not light up
the area under the wings or cockpit (as in a
Cessna172). A floor paint will help with reflectivity
but it is more for easy clean up as in an oil spill,
which I have never done. :D
I reiterated a lot of comments here, just reaffirming
what has been said.
Dave
--- Michael Kraus wrote:
>
>
>
>
> I am building a new hanger on my house and was
> looking for information on what type of hanger
> lighting to install. The ceilings will be 16' tall
> and it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work
> lighting throughout. Also, if anyone knows of the
> light spacing it would help.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 Flying
> RV-10 wiring
>
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
>
> ? - Why wouldn't the 65 watt fluorescent units that you talk about below
> suffer
> from the same effects (or is it affects)?
>
> Regards,
> /\/elson
>
[Tim] They still get brighter as they warm up but they don't flicker like
the 8 foot fluorescents do. 4 foot fluorescents don't really flicker to
bad, but these lights use a lens that helps get the light down. They say
they are equivalent to a 500 watt but it is only 65 watts of power.
I like them except for they are hard to mount on a flat ceiling.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Settle" <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
Mike,
I agree with what Mike Humphrey said. I have a 26' x 32' detached garage that
I use solely to build my -8 with. It has a 10' ceiling and the interior is all
painted white. I have (9) 8' dual bulb T-12 fixtures and it is ample lighting.
I have no problems at all with the lights coming on all the way down into
the 20's F. However, I have had to replace one ballast at a cost of $43 after
only 2 1/2 years though. I would still do the same thing again...
I know a guy who works for a large tire manufacturer. He said his company paid
a lighting consultant come in and come up with ideas to lower their lighting
expenses. He said the guy came in and walked all through the plant looking at
the facility. In the end, he asked what the highest level was that their tallest
forklift would reach. They gave him their answer, (I don't recall what it
was) and his solution was to lower all the fixtures to within 2' of the tallest
forklift reach, then turn off half their lights...
Bill Settle
-8 Wings (Still)
Winston-Salem, NC
----------- Original message from "mike humphrey" :
--------------
>
> Mike,
> In my hanger I have the T-12 cold weather 8' units. Great lighting, work in
> cold fine, easy to replace, just started replacing bulbs after 3 1/2 years
> continual use, pricey but great lighting. Lowe's carries the 8' fixture and
> bulbs(green ends and they just push in, no twisting). In my work areas I
> have added specific lighting to the situation. Bandsaw, lathe, drill press
> (dangerous areas) have separate lighting on switches. I would not hang any
> lighting on the 16' ceiling though. Lighting disperses geometrically. So
> whatever lighting that you choose, suspend it from some cheap chain and
> lower it to about 2-3 feet above your highest point on the floor, ie tail of
> plane. Reflectors are cheaper than lighting units and you will save
> electricity which equals $. More $ to spend on RV's. Remember, whatever
> lighting that you put in, you will not want to replace anytime soon, if
> ever, by lowering your units, maintenance will be easier also, unless you
> just happen to have a 16' step ladder.
> Mike H
> 9A/8A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Kraus"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:01 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for information on
> > what type of hanger lighting to install. The ceilings will be 16' tall
> > and it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting throughout. Also,
> > if anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
> >
> > Thanks
> > -Mike Kraus
> > RV-4 Flying
> > RV-10 wiring
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Mike,
I agree with what Mike Humphrey said. I have a 26' x 32' detached garage
that I use solely to build my -8 with. It has a 10' ceiling and the interior
is all painted white. I have (9) 8' dual bulb T-12 fixtures
and it is ample lighting. I have no problems at all with the lights coming
on all the way down into the 20's F. However, I have had to replace
one ballast at a cost of $43 after only 2 1/2 years though. I would
still do the same thing again...
I know a guy who works for a large tire manufacturer. He said his company
paid a lighting consultant come in and come up with ideas to lower their
lighting expenses. He said the guy came in and walked all through
the plant looking at the facility. In the end, he asked what the highest
level was that their tallest forklift would reach. They gave him their
answer, (I don't recall what it was) and his solution was to lower all
the fixtures to within 2' of the tallest forklift reach, then turn off half their
lights...
Bill Settle
-8 Wings (Still)
Winston-Salem, NC
----------- Original message from "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net>:
--------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "mike
humphrey"
>
> Mike,
> In
my hanger I have the T-12 cold weather 8' units. Great lighting, work in
>
cold fine, easy to replace, just started replacing bulbs after 3 1/2 years
> continual use, pricey but great lighting. Lowe's carries the 8' fixture
and
> bulbs(green ends and they just push in, no twisting). In my
work areas I
> have added specific lighting to the situation. Bandsaw,
lathe, drill press
> (dangerous areas) have separate lighting on switches.
I would not hang any
> lighting on the 16' ceiling though. Lighting
disperses geometrically. So
> whatever lighting that you choose, suspend
it from some cheap chain and
> lower it to about 2-3 feet above your
highest point on the floor, ie tail of
> pla
ne. Re
flectors are cheaper than lighting units and you will save
> electricity
which equals $. More $ to spend on RV's. Remember, whatever
> lighting
that you put in, you will not want to replace anytime soon, if
> ever,
by lowering your units, maintenance will be easier also, unless you
>
just happen to have a 16' step ladder.
> Mike H
> 9A/8A
>
----- Original Message ----- <BR>> From: "Michael Kraus" <N223RV(at)WOLFLAKEAIRPORT.NET><BR>>
To:
> Sent: Monday, December
10, 2007 8:01 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Michael Kraus
>
>
> >
> >
> >
I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for information on
>
> what type of hanger lighting to install. The ceilings will be 16'
tall
> > and it is 44' x 60'. I would like
good w
=====
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's foil comm antenna |
I just tested mine today - works as advertised....gonna have it tuned by
a bunch of ham guys in the spring.....
----- Original Message -----
From: Lincoln Keill
To: RV-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 2:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Van's foil comm antenna
Has anyone successfully used Van's copper foil comm antenna that
mounts on the windscreen...or anyone who would recommend NOT using it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)speedyquick.net> |
| Subject: | Van's foil comm antenna |
I've been using one for 11 years. It's cheap, simple, no-drag, and it
works. I get plenty of range, and good radio quality. It's got some nicks
and scratches on it from people grabbing the center bar, yet no problems.
Heck, maybe I'll replace it someday.
Ed Bundy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lincoln Keill
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 12:34 PM
To: RV-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Van's foil comm antenna
Has anyone successfully used Van's copper foil comm antenna that mounts on
the windscreen...or anyone who would recommend NOT using it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
I don't have answers to all the questions raised in this post but I'll
take a stab at some of them.
John Jessen wrote:
> This thread is interesting to me. I'd not considered the Trio. TT seemed
> to be the leader and well liked.
I suspect TruTrak is the market leader in volume of units in the field
because they have been in the experimental autopilot market longer than
anyone except Navaid. They make good products and their market share is
deserved.
I know the individuals at Trio and their high level of business ethics
prevented them from releasing their EZ-Pilot until it was ready for
prime time. It was tough for the Trio guys to sit on their baby during
development as TT gained market share, but they were determined to
release no units before their time.
Now I see that many seem satisfied with
> the Trio. Why is it if their units are so good (and the pricing seems okay)
> and their support very good, that they are not being supported by GRT?
I don't have personal background in this particular instance since I
don't use GRT equipment. I can tell you that "supporting" a particular
autopilot is not necessarily a simple endeavor. It is particularly
difficult for the Trio guys because they designed their unit to be
compatible with only data that strictly follows standard NMEA protocol.
The software designer at Trio has a ballistic missile guidance
background and he is *very picky* :-) about having his unit only track
pristine data. There have been vendors (not GRT) that have not been able
to support the EZ-Pilot because their hardware didn't send standard NMEA
AnywhereMap's PDA-based system being a prime example).
I suspect the reason GRT has supported TT is due more to marketing and
personal reasons than hardware issues. Maybe they wanted to piggyback
the company with the largest market share.
Why
> is it they are not commanding the popular numbers of TT?
Less time in the market, fewer ad $$$$$$'s spent, a much smaller product
line, which no doubt has resulted in less market inertia.
Do they lack
> product depth?
Guess that depends on your point of view and what you want your
autopilot system to do.
Is their need for a separate knob and bezel for the altitude
> hold unit a drawback?
I don't think so. Trio's interface allows the system to offer a huge
feature set with only a "separate knob and bezel". :-)
> Is it lack of GPSS steering?
That is a perceived difference but there is much more to the GPSS
steering issue than meets the uneducated eye. I won't delve into that,
just to say that for most of us "GPSS" is vastly overrated, and is not
unique in an operational sense to TT.
Maybe they are just as
> popular as TT?
Yes, with their customers they are avidly endorsed.
What's the deal?
Don't know what else I can add beyond what has already been presented in
this thread. It is great to have two wonderful vendors of fantastic
equipment. Do your homework and chose what is best for your mission profile.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Speed 3 Guy" <speed3guy(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
I'm not flying yet, so you can take my comments for what they are worth.
The feature set and price were consideration, but servo design was the
primary selling factor for the Trio. I design aerospace hardware for a
living and know that things can and do go wrong. In my opinion, the Trio
Servo is the most failsafe servo out there. When the system is powered down
(by a real mechanical switch in the control head), the servo is physically
disengaged from the control arm. This means that when the system is powered
down you're not moving the servo every time you move the stick (maintain
control feel). Since the gears between the servo and control arm are held
together by an electric solenoid, if you cut power to the system, it
disengages. Period. On top of that, there's an adjustable slip clutch
instead of a shear pin between the linkage and the servo. This means that
if you have to overpower the system, you don't damage the servo.
To summarize, despite the popularity and obvious quality of TT I decided
Trio had more features for less money. The redundant safety systems in the
servo cause me to write the check.
Kind Regards,
Guy
This thread is interesting to me. I'd not considered the Trio. TT seemed
to be the leader and well liked. Now I see that many seem satisfied with
the Trio. Why is it if their units are so good (and the pricing seems okay)
and their support very good, that they are not being supported by GRT? Why
is it they are not commanding the popular numbers of TT? Do they lack
product depth? Is their need for a separate knob and bezel for the altitude
hold unit a drawback? Is it lack of GPSS steering? Maybe they are just as
popular as TT? What's the deal?
John Jessen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
Brian
I'd avoid this route as this is exactly what I've done. the color from the
cheap mercvapor lighting is an awful yellow that distorts all color
perception. although the light was bright enough, i actually got headaches
from the poor light color after long periods of exposure. i haven't changed
them out yet, but i have lined the perimeter of the hangar with 4ft
fluorescent fixtures and it has made a huge difference. perhaps the best
lighting solution is a marriage of different technologies.
of coarse your mileage may vary...
steve dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
What was suggested to me as the cheapest and simplest way to get good
lighting is to use those mercury vapor yard lights. You can just tape over
the light sensor, or I rewired mine around the sensor. Lots of light, they
only cost about $25 each, and they are not sensitive to cold as fluorescents
are.
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
-->
I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for information on
what type of hanger lighting to install. The ceilings will be 16' tall and
it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting throughout. Also, if
anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 Flying
RV-10 wiring
11:06 AM
11:06 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
Just to be correct, mercury vapor lights have a bluish
light. If the light is a deep yellow, it is a low
pressure sodium light. If the light is almost white
with a yellowish tint, it is a high pressure sodium
light.
Dave
--- Steven DiNieri wrote:
>
>
> Brian
> I'd avoid this route as this is exactly what I've
> done. the color from the
> cheap mercvapor lighting is an awful yellow that
> distorts all color
> perception. although the light was bright enough, i
> actually got headaches
> from the poor light color after long periods of
> exposure. i haven't changed
> them out yet, but i have lined the perimeter of the
> hangar with 4ft
> fluorescent fixtures and it has made a huge
> difference. perhaps the best
> lighting solution is a marriage of different
> technologies.
> of coarse your mileage may vary...
> steve dinieri
> Iflyrv10.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Brian Meyette
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:13 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
>
>
> What was suggested to me as the cheapest and
> simplest way to get good
> lighting is to use those mercury vapor yard lights.
> You can just tape over
> the light sensor, or I rewired mine around the
> sensor. Lots of light, they
> only cost about $25 each, and they are not sensitive
> to cold as fluorescents
> are.
> brian
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Michael Kraus
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:02 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
> -->
>
>
>
> I am building a new hanger on my house and was
> looking for information on
> what type of hanger lighting to install. The
> ceilings will be 16' tall and
> it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting
> throughout. Also, if
> anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 Flying
> RV-10 wiring
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 11:06 AM
>
>
> 11:06 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
> autopilot is not necessarily a simple endeavor. It is particularly
> difficult for the Trio guys because they designed their unit to be
> compatible with only data that strictly follows standard NMEA
> protocol.
> The software designer at Trio has a ballistic missile guidance
> background and he is *very picky* :-) about having his unit only
> track
> p
Sam and others,
>From what I have seen the NMEA sentences are not properly defined in the
first instance and are interpreted differently by just about every
manufacturer.
Because of these differences most software that reads NMEA sentences (or
any other nav data for that matter) must be validated with each sending
device one by one.
The differences are not just the sentence structure (when does a null
value mean zero, is an integer 0 the same as a float zero 0.0) where
well tested bullet proof software is necessary to be able to parse all
manner of data variants. Some of these differences can be very subtle.
Though not NMEA related I have personally seen a navy frigate nav system
fail because it received a heading of 360.0 degrees rather than 0.0
degrees. There are well documented incidents of nav failures when
aircraft have crossed the International Date line.
Did you know some GPSs will send data for more than 12 satellites -
ambiguous in NMEA and in the manufacturers spec but only discovered when
the constellation grew. You don't want your system to crash when
satellite #13 shows up in the messages.
There are also significant dynamic differences between GPSs.
Each GPS chip-set manufacturer implements it's own proprietary (and
secret) algorithms. This will include the type and nature of the
filtering and these factors will significantly alter the interaction
between a GPS and say an autopilot.
For example it is reasonably clear how the cross track error responds
along a straight course segment, but what about near to or transiting
through a way point. How does the smoothing algorithm alter this
behaviour.
Also another factor - what about a reduced satellite signal strength
(sunspots/antenna preamp problems/out of band interference) impact on
position error and resulting tracking performance.
Garmin is pretty lean with specifications on their products performance
and are no better than any other chip-set maker at specifying how the
dynamics work. This makes it pretty difficult for an auto pilot or alt
hold manufacturer to make GPS coupling work well with any NMEA source.
Even then each will require considerable testing.
IF GRT and TRIO are as reputable as people are reporting I am not
surprised that we do not see immediate support. Perhaps it will come
when they have the interfaces properly specified between themselves.
'nuf said, rant over.
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Ok, I would like to chime in on yet another subject I know NOTHING
about!
I own a 50' x 50' hangar (2500 square feet) and it came with lighting
that was detailed in Jim's email:
http://www.businesslights.com/high-bay-metal-halide-fixtures-c-277_477.h
tml
My unit has only 4 of these lights hung very high in the rafters
(probably 25' high ceilings) and it is plenty of light for that space.
Frankly I was surprised to see how inexpensive they were listed as I
always assumed they were more expensive that that.
While I have read and understand that lowing the lights is the proper
decision for some styles of lights if one goes into a Costco you see
these lights suspended all the way up the very top of the store, well
clear of any equipment or storage needs. I assume they know what they
are doing in placing these lamps that high.
The drawback to these lights is that they do not turn on instantly. When
I flip the switch I get annoyed that I don't have instant light but
before I think about it a second time the lights are fully on. I have no
idea how energy efficient these lights are but I am a satisfied owner
for both amount or light and light quality.
4:30 am, Can't sleep,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 400 Hours
RV-10 BPE Engine arrived
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants fairings |
At 05:18 PM 12/10/07, you wrote:
>
>Hi:
>
>I asked this before, but I did not get complete info.
>
>After seeing the prices on Van's, Over $200 and a fellow builder more
>than $300.... It is for us to steep....
If you think this is expensive, try buying a set for a DR-107 One
Design! To really save money, make your own. Of course, you don't
need them at all to fly.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's foil comm antenna |
I tried it, very poor reception, both in the air and ground. Went
with a standard antenna on the bottom of the fuselage.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
At 01:33 PM 12/10/07, you wrote:
>Has anyone successfully used Van's copper foil comm antenna that
>mounts on the windscreen...or anyone who would recommend NOT using it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
Living in a residential airpark I've got to see a variety of lighting.
All of the hangars on my street are the same dimensions, 45'x40', 15'
ceilings. Stock lighting was 6 -2 bulb 4' flourescent fixtures. This is
inadequate. One of my neighbors went with 6 -4 bulb 4' fixtures and this
improved things greatly but still wasn't ideal.
By far the best lighting I've seen is large Halogen fixtures. My next
door neighbor has them and his lighting is unequalled. Another followed
his lead but added a couple of extra fixtures. He has light.
Another huge factor is the floor. My floor is epoxy and gray in color
with a slight gloss finish. My next door neigbor (with the halogens)
floor is tan, leaning toward a more yellowish tint with very little
gloss. Although the lights are white the hangar has a yellowish tint
when the lights are on.
The other neighbor who added halogens has a light blue floor with light
gloss. He has the best lighting on the block.
If doing again, I'd go with the halogens despite the added cost. The
lighting is incredible. The fixtures hang down from the ceiling making
bulb changes although my neighbor hasn't had any bulb failures in 6
years. Good lighting makes things so much nicer. I'm going to go with
the halogens before next summer.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
RV7 N717EE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
| From: | "n7hqk" <n7hqk(at)yahoo.com> |
I built my shop several years ago and wrestled with the lighting issue. I tried several and have finally settled on using "brood Lights" with the clamp removed, that I got at Lowes, They are single lamp screw base fixtures that have a 10" aluminum reflector. I installed eight 4x4 outlet boxes on the ceiling of the 35'x40 shop for a total of 32 lights. I use the 20' cords that the lamps come with to suspend them over each of my work areas. I can drop them down to just above the table top of a work table or pull them up over the main parking bay to clear my truck... I have each outfitted with a 9-27 watt standard CFL bulb and they are switched in banks of 8. I use the cheap plastic work clamps and/or a zip tie to clip the wire to a conduit over where I need the lamp and have screwed 16" long sections of 4" PVC pipe to the ceiling to roll up the excess cordage and stuff it into to get it out of the way. While I was wiring I also installed 8 ea. quad outlet boxes on #10 AWG 3 cond. SO cord that drop to the floor from the ceiling for outlets in the shop. I'll post some photos of the setup on my kitlog site http://www.mykitlog.com/n7hqk . I love it! Low cost the CLF's start in the cold and can be purchased cheaply and in various color temps and cost little to run.
--------
Ray D. Congdon - N7HQK
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151658#151658
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's foil comm antenna |
Bob,
Do you have a picture of this contraption?
Darrell
--- Bob wrote:
>
>
> I tried it, very poor reception, both in the air and
> ground. Went
> with a standard antenna on the bottom of the
> fuselage.
>
> Bob
> RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
>
> At 01:33 PM 12/10/07, you wrote:
> >Has anyone successfully used Van's copper foil comm
> antenna that
> >mounts on the windscreen...or anyone who would
> recommend NOT using it?
>
>
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | FAA wants input re changes needed |
Have you come across something that's arcane, anachronistic or just
plain useless in your travels through the regs? Well, the FAA says it
wants to know about it. The agency has issued a Review of Existing
Regulations that invites anyone with a beef about how the law of the air
is now set to drop them a line. "Getting public comments is a necessary
element of our effort to make our regulations more effective and less
burdensome," the agency claims in the document. It's asking that you
list the top three aggravations in descending order for it to consider.
More...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants fairings |
If you think this is expensive, try buying a set for a DR-107 One
> Design! To really save money, make your own. Of course, you don't
> need them at all to fly.
>
Wheel pants and gear leg fairings may be the cheapest speed improvement
you will do. And the improvement is substantial.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
"By far the best lighting I've seen is large Halogen fixtures. My next door
neighbor has them and his lighting is unequalled. Another followed his lead
but added a couple of extra fixtures. He has light. "
I'm just about to tackle the lighting issue myself. Can you give us any
more information about the type of halogen fixture you like? I like metal
halide a lot, but it's pretty expensive to run and the bulbs are expensive
and have a fairly short life.
Thanks,
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Nosewheel pant brackets |
Folks,
I'm trying to verify if the original "two brackets per side" have been replaced
by a single bracket per side (U-713C-L and U-713C-R). It should be held on by
a single 3/8"x24x3/4" allen screw with washer/lockwasher on each side and hooks
around the axel bolt. My understanding is that the new brackets allow easier
maintenance without disassembling the nosewheel to fork assembly.
Are there other parts in this assembly? My earlier kit does not have the newer
parts and I would like to do things easier. I think drawing C2 has probably
been updated too......
Thanks in advance,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc |
I can tell you that Trio Cust Svc is outstanding and that Trutrack
customer service is not worth a damn. Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
That depends on what type of fluorescent you are using. I have a 40x64 shop/hanger
up here in Wisconsin and I use 8 of the 8ft High Output strip lights you
can find from your local LowesDepot for about $50. If it drops below 30F it
takes them a couple minutes to warm up for full light output but they work fine
down into the negative temperatures with no flicker. Again, they MUST be the
110 watt HO type light which are also referred to as "cold start". Another
nice thing is they are cheaper to run than most other lighting out there, I believe
each fixture is around 1.5 amp.
The 8 lights in that space are adequate but two more would probably be perfect.
I would also try and get units with a reflector. If you look around on the
net you can get HO ballasts and just pick up the el cheapo 8' lights w/reflector
and swap the ballast.
Michael Sausen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 9:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
If this is not a heated area I would not recommend using the 8'
fluorescents. They do not respond as well to colder weather as they
flicker. You can use 4' fixtures with light shields (ceiling height) but
there are better options. Lowes and Home Depot sell a 65 watt fluorescent
area light that is round and has a parabolic type reflective lens. We have
many hangars here at our airpark that uses these including mine. A new
hangar was just built and 9 of these were spaced out in there which provides
excellent lighting in this hangar. The cost for these is around $44each.
We have some metal hangars that have very high ceilings and the same light
were used but were mounted on a metal extension to get the light down to
about 10-12 feet off the floor.
I am not an engineer and I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night
but I did spend over 20 years installing lighting systems in both
residential and commercial applications. I used these lights in my hangar
and they work well.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Nelson
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:41 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
>
> Hi Michael,
>
> I can't speak about hangar lighting specifically, but I'll share my
> experiences
> w/ lighting the garage.
>
> I initially went with some dual florescenct bulb fixtures (40 watt, I
> believe)
> that hung from an 8' ceiling about one foot. Sadly, they just didn't
> quite put
> out the kind of light I was wanting. Especially if I was going to be
> working
> under them. And, admittedly, I was a little tight in the wallet when I
> purchased them.
>
> I eventually replaced the above units w/ some dual flourescent 8 foot, 96
> watt
> bulbs (F96T12 bulbs). The fixtures attached to the ceiling. At the time
> (~4
> yrs ago), the fixture and bulbs were about $50 per setup at Lowes. Also,
> the
> nice thing about the F96T12 bulbs is that you don't have insert-and-twist
> to
> install them. They use the spring loaded setup that works axially; so
> it's
> more of a stab-and-release operation.
>
> About a year ago I helped a friend replace some 2'x2' units in his office.
> The
> new units used some little skinny flourescent bulbs (~3/4 of the diameter
> of
> the traditional flourescent bulbs) that relied on electronics rather than
> ballasts to operate. When we 1st turned them on, we couldn't help but
> notice
> how bright they were. Don't know if they exist in the longer versions or
> not,
> but you might consider them.
>
> Also, since you're installing in a hangar (and with a high ceiling that is
> probably dark and does not reflect any light), I'd consider adding some
> kind of
> reflector that covers the top of the fixture to relect light back down
> where
> it's needed/wanted. No sense wasting light upwards.
>
> Good luck,
>
> /\/elson
> RV-7A - Fuse (getting close to the canopy work)
> Austin, TX
>
>
> On Mon, 10 Dec 2007, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for information
> on
> > what type of hanger lighting to install. The ceilings will be 16' tall
> and
> > it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting throughout. Also, if
> > anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
> >
> > Thanks -Mike Kraus RV-4 Flying RV-10 wiring
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
You are spot on. I really shouldn't call my lights mercury vapors as I don't
know exactly what I bought.....duh.. from your description I probably bought
low pres sodium lamps.
the point I was making (or trying to ) was to avoid the temptation
to buy cheap lowe-depot lights. Because as with everything else, you get
what you pay for.
OH, To top the cake, a week ago Sunday when I opened the hangar door
the acrylic diffuser dropped off one of the suspended light fixtures and
smashed on the floor a few feet from the wing of my 6A. It looked as if the
heat from the bulb was slowly cooking the plastic over time making it
brittle, and although the lamp was cold when it fell off, a gust of wind may
have caught it.
Steve dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
Just to be correct, mercury vapor lights have a bluish
light. If the light is a deep yellow, it is a low
pressure sodium light. If the light is almost white
with a yellowish tint, it is a high pressure sodium
light.
Dave
--- Steven DiNieri wrote:
>
>
> Brian
> I'd avoid this route as this is exactly what I've
> done. the color from the
> cheap mercvapor lighting is an awful yellow that
> distorts all color
> perception. although the light was bright enough, i
> actually got headaches
> from the poor light color after long periods of
> exposure. i haven't changed
> them out yet, but i have lined the perimeter of the
> hangar with 4ft
> fluorescent fixtures and it has made a huge
> difference. perhaps the best
> lighting solution is a marriage of different
> technologies.
> of coarse your mileage may vary...
> steve dinieri
> Iflyrv10.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Brian Meyette
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:13 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
>
>
> What was suggested to me as the cheapest and
> simplest way to get good
> lighting is to use those mercury vapor yard lights.
> You can just tape over
> the light sensor, or I rewired mine around the
> sensor. Lots of light, they
> only cost about $25 each, and they are not sensitive
> to cold as fluorescents
> are.
> brian
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Michael Kraus
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:02 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
> -->
>
>
>
> I am building a new hanger on my house and was
> looking for information on
> what type of hanger lighting to install. The
> ceilings will be 16' tall and
> it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting
> throughout. Also, if
> anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 Flying
> RV-10 wiring
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 11:06 AM
>
>
> 11:06 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
I know the individuals at Trio and their high level of business ethics
> prevented them from releasing their EZ-Pilot until it was ready for prime
> time. It was tough for the Trio guys to sit on their baby during
> development as TT gained market share, but they were determined to release
> no units before their time.
Note the issues with one electronic ignition system. At least one forced
landing resulted from what may have been software/hardware issues.
>
>> Is it lack of GPSS steering?
>
> That is a perceived difference but there is much more to the GPSS steering
> issue than meets the uneducated eye. I won't delve into that, just to say
> that for most of us "GPSS" is vastly overrated, and is not unique in an
> operational sense to TT.
Since I don't understand GPSS I just read this link:
http://www.avionicswest.com/articles/GPSS.htm
I still have no idea why I want or need it. My Trio EZ-Pilot tracks
courses,
intercepts courses, maintains a heading if GPS is lost and will follow GPS
approaches (probably VOR and ILS as well...I just don't remember).
You have options and I am not going to bash TruTrak. I suspect that it
is a fine system.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc |
Have not had any dealings with Trio, but TruTrak has been super with me.
Bought my ADI Pilot II from A/C Spruce. Arrived without servos,
mounting hdwre, and was an ADI Pilot I, but paid the Pilot II price.
A/C Spruce rep didn't know that there was a difference. Called TT and
explained the situation, also told them that the unit that I received
had 'stuff' rattling around inside. TT immediately told me to give them
my invoice #, name, date of purchase and that they would contact A/C
Spruce. Called me back in 20 minutes and told me to either send it back
to A/C Spruce or to them directly. Sent it to them. Within 2 weeks
turn around TT sent me the new, complete ADI Pilot II with everything
that I paid for through A/C Spruce. Even paid shipping both ways. To
top it off, A/C Spruce had a promotion on at the time that was selling
the ADI Pilot II BELOW TT cost, according to TT. TT still honored the
price without a squabble. How can you beat that service?
FYI - whenever A/C Spruce has a 'request quote' price. USE IT! I have
purchased MANY items from them that have a VERY reduced price. Also did
y'all know that A/C Spruce has a price matching policy? Find the
cheapest price that you can on the web and they will beat it-even Van's.
All they ask for is the website name.
Back on TT-get Stein to build you your harness-he will at no extra
charge include a jack in the wiring harness to plug your GPS
into-including handhelds if TT supports it, as with my AvMap IV that I
panel mounted in my 9A using the AirGizmos docking station.
My 2cents worth,
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Heathco
To: rv-list
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 11:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc
I can tell you that Trio Cust Svc is outstanding and that Trutrack
customer service is not worth a damn. Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
The ones you see at Costco are 400 watt fixtures and
they are high up so the light "umbrella" they cast
overlaps with the next fixture. Next time you are in
their store, find an open area of floor and count how
many shadows your body casts, if you can see them.
Dave
30+ years an electrician
--- Robin Marks wrote:
> Ok, I would like to chime in on yet another subject
> I know NOTHING
> about!
>
> I own a 50' x 50' hangar (2500 square feet) and it
> came with lighting
> that was detailed in Jim's email:
>
>
http://www.businesslights.com/high-bay-metal-halide-fixtures-c-277_477.h
> tml
>
> My unit has only 4 of these lights hung very high in
> the rafters
> (probably 25' high ceilings) and it is plenty of
> light for that space.
> Frankly I was surprised to see how inexpensive they
> were listed as I
> always assumed they were more expensive that that.
>
> While I have read and understand that lowing the
> lights is the proper
> decision for some styles of lights if one goes into
> a Costco you see
> these lights suspended all the way up the very top
> of the store, well
> clear of any equipment or storage needs. I assume
> they know what they
> are doing in placing these lamps that high.
>
> The drawback to these lights is that they do not
> turn on instantly. When
> I flip the switch I get annoyed that I don't have
> instant light but
> before I think about it a second time the lights are
> fully on. I have no
> idea how energy efficient these lights are but I am
> a satisfied owner
> for both amount or light and light quality.
>
>
>
> 4:30 am, Can't sleep,
>
> Robin
>
> RV-4 Sold
>
> RV-6A 400 Hours
>
> RV-10 BPE Engine arrived
>
>
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
Ron Lee wrote:
>>> Is it lack of GPSS steering?
>>
>> That is a perceived difference but there is much more to the GPSS
>> steering issue than meets the uneducated eye. I won't delve into that,
>> just to say that for most of us "GPSS" is vastly overrated, and is not
>> unique in an operational sense to TT.
>
> Since I don't understand GPSS I just read this link:
>
> http://www.avionicswest.com/articles/GPSS.htm
>
> I still have no idea why I want or need it. My Trio EZ-Pilot tracks
> courses,
> intercepts courses, maintains a heading if GPS is lost and will follow GPS
> approaches (probably VOR and ILS as well...I just don't remember).
Ron, I think what builders considering an autopilot need to keep in mind
in regards to "GPSS" is that the current digital systems work so well
that GPSS is for all practical purposes a moot point. It seems to me
that the effort TruTrak has taken to promote GPSS is primarily to
differentiate their system from the legacy systems (Century, S-Tec,
etc). As you mentioned, our Trio EZ-Pilots track so accurately that we
have no need for "GPSS". GPSS sounds pretty cool if all you have flown
are the old analog autopilots, but for us fortunate enough to enjoy the
digital toys in our experimental aircraft, our systems far outperform
the old stuff.
I still marvel at how a sub-$2000 autopilot can hold my plane within a
wingspan of the course line with an inexpensive handheld GPS providing
the data! How many King Airs and Citations can match that? :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
I haven't actually installed mine yet, so thanks for the tip. I'd just
bought one at my electrician's suggestion, to see how the concept would
work. I'll check it for color before installing it. Thanks
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DiNieri
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 1:34 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
Brian
I'd avoid this route as this is exactly what I've done. the color from the
cheap mercvapor lighting is an awful yellow that distorts all color
perception. although the light was bright enough, i actually got headaches
from the poor light color after long periods of exposure. i haven't changed
them out yet, but i have lined the perimeter of the hangar with 4ft
fluorescent fixtures and it has made a huge difference. perhaps the best
lighting solution is a marriage of different technologies.
of coarse your mileage may vary...
steve dinieri
Iflyrv10.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
What was suggested to me as the cheapest and simplest way to get good
lighting is to use those mercury vapor yard lights. You can just tape over
the light sensor, or I rewired mine around the sensor. Lots of light, they
only cost about $25 each, and they are not sensitive to cold as fluorescents
are.
brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
-->
I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for information on
what type of hanger lighting to install. The ceilings will be 16' tall and
it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting throughout. Also, if
anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 Flying
RV-10 wiring
11:06 AM
11:06 AM
11:06 AM
2:51 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
> I still marvel at how a sub-$2000 autopilot can hold my plane within a
> wingspan of the course line with an inexpensive handheld GPS providing the
> data! How many King Airs and Citations can match that? :-)
That is probably why Sam. I often save flight tracks on my Airmap 500
and it is easy to tell when I am flying and when the Trio EZ-Pilot is
flying.
Now to get the altitude hold so ATC does not see the 100-200' (is that all?)
altitude excursions when I make a sandwich or read a map.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Hoover <hooverra(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Nosewheel pant brackets |
Ralph,
The single piece brackets for the nosewheel are as you describe. I
just drilled out the 2 piece brackets and replaced them. Not to bad a
job. I made a mandrel that located the new bracket via the axle holes in
the pant and a 3/8 dowel through the front holes a couple brass flair
fitting nuts that had a 3/8 id and a tapered OD centered the front holes
in the existing cap screw access holes. Note if you haven't drilled your
pants yet all of this is moot.
I didn't order the washers called out on the drawing so I just
drilled a 1/4" ID AN 970-4 fender washer to 3/8 and along with a thick
and thin 3/8 AN960-616 the rear attachment is just right. Was it worth
it, don't know depends on how many time the pant would need to be
removed while leaving the wheel in place. It's not a big deal to remove
the front of the pant and swing the strut end up onto a block of wood. I
suspect I'll have it all off and on more while fitting and finishing
than in all of the next few years.
The updated drawing came with my new fork. I thing I need to go one
size longer on the boll as well.
If you are making the change you will need:
Drawing C1 R3
1 ea U-713-L
1 ea U-713-R
2 ea AN960-616L Washers
2 ea AN960-616 Washers
2 ea 062 25783054 Washers ( I drilled 2 AN 970-4's but it's much easier
to just add the right washers to your bracket order)
The bolt is still called out as a AN6-60A as before but I only have
about a single thread showing. YMMV
The drawing calls for plate nuts and #8 screws to hold the bracket on, I
used -3 flush rivets 3 per tab and assembled it with epoxy and a layer
of fiberglass. I hope to never see the fasteners!!
Good luck
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A Almost ready for the trip to the airport for final assembly.
hooverra at verizon dot net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com |
The Thunderbirds will be @ Sun-N-Fun this year.
Should be a good show, it has been several years since they have attended and performed.
I just got a memo from the airport. I am sure it will be on the Sun-N-Fun site
soon if not already.
Sal
Lakeland, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel pant brackets |
Thanks Ralph!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Ralph Hoover <hooverra(at)verizon.net>
>Sent: Dec 11, 2007 4:48 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Nosewheel pant brackets
>
>
>Ralph,
> The single piece brackets for the nosewheel are as you describe. I
>just drilled out the 2 piece brackets and replaced them. Not to bad a
>job. I made a mandrel that located the new bracket via the axle holes in
>the pant and a 3/8 dowel through the front holes a couple brass flair
>fitting nuts that had a 3/8 id and a tapered OD centered the front holes
>in the existing cap screw access holes. Note if you haven't drilled your
>pants yet all of this is moot.
> I didn't order the washers called out on the drawing so I just
>drilled a 1/4" ID AN 970-4 fender washer to 3/8 and along with a thick
>and thin 3/8 AN960-616 the rear attachment is just right. Was it worth
>it, don't know depends on how many time the pant would need to be
>removed while leaving the wheel in place. It's not a big deal to remove
>the front of the pant and swing the strut end up onto a block of wood. I
>suspect I'll have it all off and on more while fitting and finishing
>than in all of the next few years.
> The updated drawing came with my new fork. I thing I need to go one
>size longer on the boll as well.
> If you are making the change you will need:
>Drawing C1 R3
>1 ea U-713-L
>1 ea U-713-R
>2 ea AN960-616L Washers
>2 ea AN960-616 Washers
>2 ea 062 25783054 Washers ( I drilled 2 AN 970-4's but it's much easier
>to just add the right washers to your bracket order)
>The bolt is still called out as a AN6-60A as before but I only have
>about a single thread showing. YMMV
>
>The drawing calls for plate nuts and #8 screws to hold the bracket on, I
>used -3 flush rivets 3 per tab and assembled it with epoxy and a layer
>of fiberglass. I hope to never see the fasteners!!
> Good luck
>
>--
>Ralph C. Hoover
>RV7A Almost ready for the trip to the airport for final assembly.
>hooverra at verizon dot net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Safety-Trim Group Buy |
Dear Fellow RV Builders,
TCW Technologies and SteinAir are pleased to announce a group
buy is now available on our new servo trim controller. Safety-Trim is
an electronic trim servo controller that resolves the issues with
run-away trim conditions plus it provides 2 speed trim operation as well
as greatly simplified switch wiring.
For all the detail please follow this direct link:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=24478
Thank you,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Hoover <hooverra(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re Trutrac and Trio Cust svc |
Charlie,
Sorry to hear you had an issue with TruTrak's customer service. I
had a problem with a cracked case on my ADI-II ( used a tinybit of
halomar sealant, DON"T it caused the case material to deteriorate and
crack). TruTrak replaced the case in short order and didn't charge me a
dime. I would recommend them to anyone.
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A
hooverra at verizon dot net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Harker" <dpharker(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Marker Beacon in lower cowl |
Planning on glassing in a 40 " bare 22 gauge wire in bottom of 7A cowl for
use as marker beacon antenna. One concern is that the antenna is not
perfectly flat.
Anyone done this before?
Thanks
Don Harker
N767DH
Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Marker Beacon in lower cowl |
It need not be flat, or straight. It need not be bare wire for that
matter.
Use a BNC bulkhead fitting at the firewall and a short piece of coax in
the
cowl side BNC connector, then transition from the center conductor of
the
coax to your wire. The coax shield need not extend past the connector
and
is not connected to anything. The coax just makes it easy to use a BNC
connector to disconnect the antenna for cowl removal.
If you have a ham friend have him/her check the antenna for resonance at
75
MHZ. In free air a =BC wavelength antenna (as your=92s will be) at this
frequency is 37.5 inches. If you don=92t have a ham friend to check,
then
just use 38=94 or so. This is really not critical for marker beacon
use.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (375 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Harker
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 9:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Marker Beacon in lower cowl
Planning on glassing in a 40 =93 bare 22 gauge wire in bottom of 7A cowl
for
use as marker beacon antenna. One concern is that the antenna is not
perfectly flat.
Anyone done this before?
Thanks
Don Harker
N767DH
Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Marker Beacon in lower cowl |
Don,
I did something very similar to what Carl describes and it works adequate
though is not as sensitive as most certified installations I have flown...
Could be the RST receiver, but I blame my makeshift antenna and the
interference from all the metal parts around the engine.
I did the same with my nav antenna and it worked OK, though not great. I
recently changed it out for a wing-tip archer antenna an it seems to get a
much more stable nav signal.
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
On Dec 11, 2007 7:03 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
> It need not be flat, or straight. It need not be bare wire for that
> matter. Use a BNC bulkhead fitting at the firewall and a short piece of
> coax in the cowl side BNC connector, then transition from the center
> conductor of the coax to your wire. The coax shield need not extend past
> the connector and is not connected to anything. The coax just makes it e
asy
> to use a BNC connector to disconnect the antenna for cowl removal.
>
>
> If you have a ham friend have him/her check the antenna for resonance at
> 75 MHZ. In free air a =BC wavelength antenna (as your's will be) at this
> frequency is 37.5 inches. If you don't have a ham friend to check, then
> just use 38" or so. This is really not critical for marker beacon use.
>
>
> Carl Froehlich
>
> RV-8A (375 hrs)
>
> RV-10 (wings)
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Donald Harker
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 11, 2007 9:44 PM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: Marker Beacon in lower cowl
>
>
> Planning on glassing in a 40 " bare 22 gauge wire in bottom of 7A cowl fo
r
> use as marker beacon antenna. One concern is that the antenna is not
> perfectly flat.
>
>
> Anyone done this before?
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Don Harker
>
> N767DH
>
> Finishing
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
com/contribution
===========
nics.com/Navigator?RV-List
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
| From: | darnpilot(at)aol.com |
Darwin:
Can you describe, or better yet provide a brand/photo of these halogen fixtures?
I need to add lights in my hanger.? I have a standard T-hanger with?three (3)?-
two (2) 8' fluorescent tubes fixtures, mounted on the ceiling (appx 16' high).?
Inadequate to say the least.
Thanks.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Darwin N. Barrie <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
Sent: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 8:55 am
Subject: Re: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
Living in a residential airpark I've got to see a variety of lighting. All of the
hangars on my street are the same dimensions, 45'x40', 15' ceilings.? Stock
lighting was 6 -2 bulb 4' flourescent fixtures. This is inadequate. One of my
neighbors went with 6 -4 bulb 4' fixtures and this improved things greatly but
still wasn't ideal.
?
By far the best lighting I've seen is large Halogen fixtures. My next door neighbor
has them and his lighting is unequalled. Another followed his lead but added
a couple of extra fixtures. He has light.
?
Another huge factor is the floor. My floor is epoxy and gray in color with a slight
gloss finish. My next door neigbor (with the halogens) floor is tan, leaning
toward a more yellowish tint with very little gloss.?Although the lights are
white the hangar has a yellowish tint when the lights are on.
?
The other neighbor who added halogens has a light blue floor with light gloss.
He has the best lighting on the block.
?
If doing again, I'd go with the halogens despite the added cost. The lighting is
incredible. The fixtures hang down from the ceiling making bulb changes although
my neighbor hasn't had any bulb failures in 6 years. Good lighting makes
things so much nicer. I'm going to go with the halogens before next summer.
?
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
RV7 N717EE
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Required RV Tools |
this needs to be archived.
Michael Wynn
RV 8
Used almost all of these tools, just in the manner described.
Add:
Pneumatic rivet squeezer:
Tool designed to accurately remove 1/4 moon sized pieces of your
left index finger.
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mauri" <maurv8(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
Check out:
http://www.lightmart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=18842
Mauri
RV-8 Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: darnpilot(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
Darwin:
Can you describe, or better yet provide a brand/photo of these halogen
fixtures?
I need to add lights in my hanger. I have a standard T-hanger with
three (3) - two (2) 8' fluorescent tubes fixtures, mounted on the
ceiling (appx 16' high). Inadequate to say the least.
Thanks.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Darwin N. Barrie <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 8:55 am
Subject: Re: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
Living in a residential airpark I've got to see a variety of lighting.
All of the hangars on my street are the same dimensions, 45'x40', 15'
ceilings. Stock lighting was 6 -2 bulb 4' flourescent fixtures. This is
inadequate. One of my neighbors went with 6 -4 bulb 4' fixtures and this
improved things greatly but still wasn't ideal.
By far the best lighting I've seen is large Halogen fixtures. My next
door neighbor has them and his lighting is unequalled. Another followed
his lead but added a couple of extra fixtures. He has light.
Another huge factor is the floor. My floor is epoxy and gray in color
with a slight gloss finish. My next door neigbor (with the halogens)
floor is tan, leaning toward a more yellowish tint with very little
gloss. Although the lights are white the hangar has a yellowish tint
when the lights are on.
The other neighbor who added halogens has a light blue floor with
light gloss. He has the best lighting on the block.
If doing again, I'd go with the halogens despite the added cost. The
lighting is incredible. The fixtures hang down from the ceiling making
bulb changes although my neighbor hasn't had any bulb failures in 6
years. Good lighting makes things so much nicer. I'm going to go with
the halogens before next summer.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
RV7 N717EE
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
12/12/2007 11:29 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants fairings |
Negative, Sam James. Tracy has pants from Lightspeed Engineering. Klaus
developed them to go fast on EZs. He sells them on his website. Don't
know the price without looking.
Tracy made the original fiberglass gear leg fairings and I think his
daughter still offers them along with his side mounted throttle
quadrant. Check the yeller pages for contact info.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
>
> I know that Tracy Saylor and most of the other "fast" RV's used Sam
> James wheelpants, which were essentially the same price as Van's
> offering, but didn't include the mounting hardware that Van's supplies
> with theirs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Hangar lighting is simple and cheap...good hangar lighting is a bit more
complex and costs a little more.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
darnpilot(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
Darwin:
Can you describe, or better yet provide a brand/photo of these halogen
fixtures?
I need to add lights in my hanger. I have a standard T-hanger with
three (3) - two (2) 8' fluorescent tubes fixtures, mounted on the
ceiling (appx 16' high). Inadequate to say the least.
Thanks.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Darwin N. Barrie <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
Sent: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 8:55 am
Subject: Re: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
Living in a residential airpark I've got to see a variety of lighting.
All of the hangars on my street are the same dimensions, 45'x40', 15'
ceilings. Stock lighting was 6 -2 bulb 4' flourescent fixtures. This is
inadequate. One of my neighbors went with 6 -4 bulb 4' fixtures and this
improved things greatly but still wasn't ideal.
By far the best lighting I've seen is large Halogen fixtures. My next
door neighbor has them and his lighting is unequalled. Another followed
his lead but added a couple of extra fixtures. He has light.
Another huge factor is the floor. My floor is epoxy and gray in color
with a slight gloss finish. My next door neigbor (with the halogens)
floor is tan, leaning toward a more yellowish tint with very little
gloss. Although the lights are white the hangar has a yellowish tint
when the lights are on.
The other neighbor who added halogens has a light blue floor with light
gloss. He has the best lighting on the block.
If doing again, I'd go with the halogens despite the added cost. The
lighting is incredible. The fixtures hang down from the ceiling making
bulb changes although my neighbor hasn't had any bulb failures in 6
years. Good lighting makes things so much nicer. I'm going to go with
the halogens before next summer.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
RV7 N717EE
_____
<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid
=aolcmp00050000000003> !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Hoover <hooverra(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Required RV Tools |
The very same tool will both punch and dimple a skin next to that
freshly match drilled hole and of course violate edge distances in the
process. :) Of course I only know that from this list. NOT!
Add:
Pneumatic rivet squeezer:
Tool designed to accurately remove 1/4 moon sized pieces of your
left index finger.
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A
hooverra at verizon dot net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobperk90658(at)bellsouth.net |
| Subject: | Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
Sam,
You know that the accuracy of the GPS coupled to the autopilot is probably what
caused the Brazilian GOL 737, and the Embraer Legacy 600 Collision in October
06 both were at 37,000 feet and on opposing courses between Brasilia and Manause,
both probably used the airport coordinates in a common data base. There
are probably not more than 75 airplanes in the air in northern Brasil at one time.
Sometimes being accurate down to the micron is not good, and being able
to fly an offset course is good. The Trio will do that easily all day long.
Just a thought. Trying to justify being a sloppy pilot }:>)
Bob Perkinson
I still marvel at how a sub-$2000 autopilot can hold my plane within a
wingspan of the course line with an inexpensive handheld GPS providing
the data! How many King Airs and Citations can match that? :-)
Sam Buchanan
Sam,
You know that the accuracy of the
GPS coupled to the autopilot is probably what caused the Brazilian GOL 737,
and the Embraer Legacy 600 Collision in October 06 both were at 37,000 feet and
on opposing courses between Brasilia and Manause, both probably used the airport
coordinates in a common data base.
There are probably not more than 75 airplanes in the air in northern Brasil
at one time. Sometimes being
accurate down to the micron is not good, and being able to fly an offset course
is good. The Trio will do that
easily all day long. Just a thought. Trying to justify being a sloppy pilot }:>
)
Bob Perkinson
I still marvel at how a sub-$2000 autopilot can hold my plane within
a
wingspan of the course line with an inexpensive handheld GPS providing
the data! How many King Airs and Citations can match that? :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Helller <marty_away(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
Doesn't TRIOs have a offset feature that allows the pilot to chose by 1/10t
h of a mile how far right of center line (up to 2 miles) the autopilot will
track?
Last year, I heard at an FAA safety conference about a program call SLOP;
stategic lateral offset procedure.... basically you either fly on center li
ne, 1 mile right or 2 miles right....
Helps avoid this type of airborne Russian roulette....
Marty Heller
RV-7 (fitting interior systems)
From: bobperk90658(at)bellsouth.netTo: rv-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV-Li
st: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude HoldDate: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 05:46:08 +0000
Sam,
You know that the accuracy of the GPS coupled to the autopilot is probably
what caused the Brazilian GOL 737, and the Embraer Legacy 600 Collision in
October 06 both were at 37,000 feet and on opposing courses between Brasili
a and Manause, both probably used the airport coordinates in a common data
base. There are probably not more than 75 airplanes in the air in northern
Brasil at one time. Sometimes being accurate down to the micron is not go
od, and being able to fly an offset course is good. The Trio will do that
easily all day long. Just a thought. Trying to justify being a sloppy pil
ot }:> )
Bob Perkinson
I still marvel at how a sub-$2000 autopilot can hold my plane within a win
gspan of the course line with an inexpensive handheld GPS providing the dat
a! How many King Airs and Citations can match that? :-) Sam Buchanan
_________________________________________________________________
i=92m is proud to present Cause Effect, a series about real people making a
difference.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
| From: | Michael W Stewart <mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com> |
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQpfLT0gICAgICAgICAgLSBUaGUg
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
bobperk90658(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
> Sam, You know that the accuracy of the GPS coupled to the autopilot
> is probably what caused the Brazilian GOL 737, and the Embraer Legacy
> 600 Collision in October 06 both were at 37,000 feet and on opposing
> courses between Brasilia and Manause, both probably used the airport
> coordinates in a common data base. There are probably not more than
> 75 airplanes in the air in northern Brasil at one time. Sometimes
> being accurate down to the micron is not good, and being able to fly
> an offset course is good. The Trio will do that easily all day long.
> Just a thought. Trying to justify being a sloppy pilot }:>)
You're right Bob, the guys at Trio recognize that "accurate" sometimes
may not be the most comfortable way to navigate. The offset feature does
work very nicely even though I hardly ever use it since I'm usually
flying "direct" VFR. I have used the offset feature a few times when I
saw my direct route was going to take me over a power plant.
Another neat feature is the one-button automatic 180 turn. Fortunately I
have *never* found the need to use it. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold |
At the altitudes I fly there is very little traffic. I use flight following
and I have been alerted to jets far more than GA aircraft.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
Hello Sam
Did you required a special cable to hook up your handheld
GPS to your TRIO?
I have a Garmin 295 that I could use for this purpose or the GPS built in my BMA
Efis Lite G3.
Cheers
Bruno
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bobperk90658(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold
Sam,
You know that the accuracy of the GPS coupled to the autopilot is probably what
caused the Brazilian GOL 737, and the Embraer Legacy 600 Collision in October
06 both were at 37,000 feet and on opposing courses between Brasilia and Manause,
both probably used the airport coordinates in a common data base. There
are probably not more than 75 airplanes in the air in northern Brasil at one time.
Sometimes being accurate down to the micron is not good, and being able
to fly an offset course is good. The Trio will do that easily all day long.
Just a thought. Trying to justify being a sloppy pilot }:>)
Bob Perkinson
I still marvel at how a sub-$2000 autopilot can hold my plane within a
wingspan of the course line with an inexpensive handheld GPS providing
the data! How many King Airs and Citations can match that? :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cost of Paint Job |
| From: | Shemp <shempdowling(at)gmail.com> |
I'm shopping around for a paint job and am getting sticker shock. The
only "local" shop around Chicago told me his last RV paint job was
$7200. I thought they typically cost around 5000. I've spent a lot of
time on my glass stuff and its pretty much ready to paint. Anyone have
a cost of a good relatively simple 2 color paint job that didnt require
a lot of work by the painters?
Shemp
300+
6a
Chicago
mike humphrey wrote:
>
>
> Mike,
> In my hanger I have the T-12 cold weather 8' units. Great lighting,
> work in cold fine, easy to replace, just started replacing bulbs after
> 3 1/2 years continual use, pricey but great lighting. Lowe's carries
> the 8' fixture and bulbs(green ends and they just push in, no
> twisting). In my work areas I have added specific lighting to the
> situation. Bandsaw, lathe, drill press (dangerous areas) have
> separate lighting on switches. I would not hang any lighting on the
> 16' ceiling though. Lighting disperses geometrically. So whatever
> lighting that you choose, suspend it from some cheap chain and lower
> it to about 2-3 feet above your highest point on the floor, ie tail of
> plane. Reflectors are cheaper than lighting units and you will save
> electricity which equals $. More $ to spend on RV's. Remember,
> whatever lighting that you put in, you will not want to replace
> anytime soon, if ever, by lowering your units, maintenance will be
> easier also, unless you just happen to have a 16' step ladder.
> Mike H
> 9A/8A
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Kraus"
>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:01 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for
>> information on what type of hanger lighting to install. The ceilings
>> will be 16' tall and it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work
>> lighting throughout. Also, if anyone knows of the light spacing it
>> would help.
>>
>> Thanks
>> -Mike Kraus
>> RV-4 Flying
>> RV-10 wiring
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting |
| From: | Shemp <shempdowling(at)gmail.com> |
Has anyone mentioned the Sodium vapor lights? I have them in my hangar
and love em. They take a while to warm up but offer great light in a
large space.
Shemp
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>
>
>> ? - Why wouldn't the 65 watt fluorescent units that you talk about below
>> suffer
>> from the same effects (or is it affects)?
>>
>> Regards,
>> /\/elson
>>
>>
>
> [Tim] They still get brighter as they warm up but they don't flicker like
> the 8 foot fluorescents do. 4 foot fluorescents don't really flicker to
> bad, but these lights use a lens that helps get the light down. They say
> they are equivalent to a 500 watt but it is only 65 watts of power.
>
> I like them except for they are hard to mount on a flat ceiling.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Gold" <andygold(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Paint Job |
I painted my plane with three colors of Imron. The total cost of materials
was about $400. I did all the prep work myself, built a booth in my garage,
and asked a local pro to come over and squirt the top coat. He did a great
job and had about 2 hours into the whole thing. I bought him a case of
scotch and went flying with him a couple times. Everyone walked away very
happy.
With mine, the prep work was just that - "work". Its nothing difficult or
anything that requries any unusual skills. But it takes a lot of time and
that's why your local shop wants $7200. The only part of the job that takes
skill and experience to get right is the final squirt.
If you want to see how to prep and paint your RV, get Sam James's Painting
101 video. (Its at Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com )
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 9:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Cost of Paint Job
>
> I'm shopping around for a paint job and am getting sticker shock. The
> only "local" shop around Chicago told me his last RV paint job was $7200.
> I thought they typically cost around 5000. I've spent a lot of time on my
> glass stuff and its pretty much ready to paint. Anyone have a cost of a
> good relatively simple 2 color paint job that didnt require a lot of work
> by the painters?
>
> Shemp
> 300+
> 6a
> Chicago
>
> mike humphrey wrote:
>>
>>
>> Mike,
>> In my hanger I have the T-12 cold weather 8' units. Great lighting, work
>> in cold fine, easy to replace, just started replacing bulbs after 3 1/2
>> years continual use, pricey but great lighting. Lowe's carries the 8'
>> fixture and bulbs(green ends and they just push in, no twisting). In my
>> work areas I have added specific lighting to the situation. Bandsaw,
>> lathe, drill press (dangerous areas) have separate lighting on switches.
>> I would not hang any lighting on the 16' ceiling though. Lighting
>> disperses geometrically. So whatever lighting that you choose, suspend
>> it from some cheap chain and lower it to about 2-3 feet above your
>> highest point on the floor, ie tail of plane. Reflectors are cheaper
>> than lighting units and you will save electricity which equals $. More $
>> to spend on RV's. Remember, whatever lighting that you put in, you will
>> not want to replace anytime soon, if ever, by lowering your units,
>> maintenance will be easier also, unless you just happen to have a 16'
>> step ladder.
>> Mike H
>> 9A/8A
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Kraus"
>>
>> To:
>> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:01 AM
>> Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for information
>>> on what type of hanger lighting to install. The ceilings will be 16'
>>> tall and it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting throughout.
>>> Also, if anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> -Mike Kraus
>>> RV-4 Flying
>>> RV-10 wiring
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cost of Paint Job |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Shemp,
Rarely is the prep work done by a builder even close to the degree of finish that
a quality painter requires. The builder/owner thinks just a few hours of touch
up is all that is required, but more often, its like several days or a week
or more. If the local shop does a high quality prep job and paint to match,
$7,200 isn't unreasonable. If he's doing an "Earl Schribe" type paint job,
then $5,000 is way too much.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shemp
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 12:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Cost of Paint Job
I'm shopping around for a paint job and am getting sticker shock. The
only "local" shop around Chicago told me his last RV paint job was
$7200. I thought they typically cost around 5000. I've spent a lot of
time on my glass stuff and its pretty much ready to paint. Anyone have
a cost of a good relatively simple 2 color paint job that didnt require
a lot of work by the painters?
Shemp
300+
6a
Chicago
mike humphrey wrote:
>
>
> Mike,
> In my hanger I have the T-12 cold weather 8' units. Great lighting,
> work in cold fine, easy to replace, just started replacing bulbs after
> 3 1/2 years continual use, pricey but great lighting. Lowe's carries
> the 8' fixture and bulbs(green ends and they just push in, no
> twisting). In my work areas I have added specific lighting to the
> situation. Bandsaw, lathe, drill press (dangerous areas) have
> separate lighting on switches. I would not hang any lighting on the
> 16' ceiling though. Lighting disperses geometrically. So whatever
> lighting that you choose, suspend it from some cheap chain and lower
> it to about 2-3 feet above your highest point on the floor, ie tail of
> plane. Reflectors are cheaper than lighting units and you will save
> electricity which equals $. More $ to spend on RV's. Remember,
> whatever lighting that you put in, you will not want to replace
> anytime soon, if ever, by lowering your units, maintenance will be
> easier also, unless you just happen to have a 16' step ladder.
> Mike H
> 9A/8A
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Kraus"
>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:01 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for
>> information on what type of hanger lighting to install. The ceilings
>> will be 16' tall and it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work
>> lighting throughout. Also, if anyone knows of the light spacing it
>> would help.
>>
>> Thanks
>> -Mike Kraus
>> RV-4 Flying
>> RV-10 wiring
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TRIO AUTOPILOT |
| From: | Michael W Stewart <mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com> |
Both can be used to drive the Trio.
I know cause I have done so with both myself.
Mike
Bruno
To
Sent by: RV LIST
owner-rv-list-ser
cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subj
ect
RV-List: TRIO AUTOPILOT
12/13/2007 11:41
AM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
Hello Sam
Did you required a special cable to hook up your
handheld GPS to your TRIO?
I have a Garmin 295 that I could use for this purpose or the GPS built
in
my BMA Efis Lite G3.
Cheers
Bruno
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bobperk90658(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold
Sam,
You know that the accuracy of the GPS coupled to the autopilot is proba
bly
what
caused the Brazilian GOL 737, and the Embraer Legacy 600 Collision in
October
06 both were at 37,000 feet and on opposing courses between Brasilia an
d
Manause,
both probably used the airport coordinates in a common data base. Ther
e
are probably not more than 75 airplanes in the air in northern Brasil a
t
one time.
Sometimes being accurate down to the micron is not good, and being able
to fly an offset course is good. The Trio will do that easily all day
long.
Just a thought. Trying to justify being a sloppy pilot }:>)
Bob Perkinson
I still marvel at how a sub-$2000 autopilot can hold my plane within a
wingspan of the course line with an inexpensive handheld GPS providing
the data! How many King Airs and Citations can match that? :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cost of Paint Job |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
Take a look at Randy's Lervold's write-up of his RV-3B paint process. I've
seen the final outcome and it looks great. He is a meticulous and
thoughtful builder, so you can trust his commentary. I have never painted
more than the interior walls of my house, so cannot say anything about this
topic, but the statement below, "the prep work...takes a lot of time and
that's why your local shop wants..." $$ is the truth. You just need to
know what to do and how to do it. Then you need to decide if your labor is
worth the savings. Applying the paint is the skill part. The rest is time
and effort.
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3hq/Paint/paint.htm
John J
40328
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Gold
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cost of Paint Job
I painted my plane with three colors of Imron. The total cost of materials
was about $400. I did all the prep work myself, built a booth in my garage,
and asked a local pro to come over and squirt the top coat. He did a great
job and had about 2 hours into the whole thing. I bought him a case of
scotch and went flying with him a couple times. Everyone walked away very
happy.
With mine, the prep work was just that - "work". Its nothing difficult or
anything that requries any unusual skills. But it takes a lot of time and
that's why your local shop wants $7200. The only part of the job that takes
skill and experience to get right is the final squirt.
If you want to see how to prep and paint your RV, get Sam James's Painting
101 video. (Its at Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com )
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 9:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Cost of Paint Job
>
> I'm shopping around for a paint job and am getting sticker shock. The
> only "local" shop around Chicago told me his last RV paint job was $7200.
> I thought they typically cost around 5000. I've spent a lot of time on my
> glass stuff and its pretty much ready to paint. Anyone have a cost of a
> good relatively simple 2 color paint job that didnt require a lot of work
> by the painters?
>
> Shemp
> 300+
> 6a
> Chicago
>
> mike humphrey wrote:
>>
>>
>> Mike,
>> In my hanger I have the T-12 cold weather 8' units. Great lighting, work
>> in cold fine, easy to replace, just started replacing bulbs after 3 1/2
>> years continual use, pricey but great lighting. Lowe's carries the 8'
>> fixture and bulbs(green ends and they just push in, no twisting). In my
>> work areas I have added specific lighting to the situation. Bandsaw,
>> lathe, drill press (dangerous areas) have separate lighting on switches.
>> I would not hang any lighting on the 16' ceiling though. Lighting
>> disperses geometrically. So whatever lighting that you choose, suspend
>> it from some cheap chain and lower it to about 2-3 feet above your
>> highest point on the floor, ie tail of plane. Reflectors are cheaper
>> than lighting units and you will save electricity which equals $. More $
>> to spend on RV's. Remember, whatever lighting that you put in, you will
>> not want to replace anytime soon, if ever, by lowering your units,
>> maintenance will be easier also, unless you just happen to have a 16'
>> step ladder.
>> Mike H
>> 9A/8A
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Kraus"
>>
>> To:
>> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:01 AM
>> Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for information
>>> on what type of hanger lighting to install. The ceilings will be 16'
>>> tall and it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting throughout.
>>> Also, if anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> -Mike Kraus
>>> RV-4 Flying
>>> RV-10 wiring
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Paint Job |
Andy Gold wrote:
>
> I painted my plane with three colors of Imron. The total cost of
> materials was about $400. I did all the prep work myself, built a booth
> in my garage, and asked a local pro to come over and squirt the top
> coat. He did a great job and had about 2 hours into the whole thing. I
> bought him a case of scotch and went flying with him a couple times.
> Everyone walked away very happy.
>
> With mine, the prep work was just that - "work". Its nothing difficult
> or anything that requries any unusual skills. But it takes a lot of
> time and that's why your local shop wants $7200. The only part of the
> job that takes skill and experience to get right is the final squirt.
>
> If you want to see how to prep and paint your RV, get Sam James's
> Painting 101 video. (Its at Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com )
>
When I painted my RV-6 eight years ago, my cost of materials (PPG
Concept single stage) was close to $1000.
Wish I could've sprayed my plane in two hours...bet I had 15 hours just
in masking.............. )-:
I used to think aircraft paint jobs were outrageously priced. After
painting a couple of planes, I am amazed a paint shop can stay in
business by only charging $7000.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TRIO AUTOPILOT |
Bruno wrote:
> Hello Sam
>
> Did you required a special cable to hook up your handheld GPS to your
> TRIO?
>
> I have a Garmin 295 that I could use for this purpose or the GPS
> built in my BMA Efis Lite G3.
>
> Cheers
>
> Bruno
Bruno, the cable is special only in the sense that it has to have the
proper connector to plug into the GPS. Most GPS vendors have a
data/power cable for the popular models, and all you have to do is
connect the data transmit wire in the cable to the EZ-Pilot. Just make
sure you Garmin can send NMEA data (most if not all Garmins can). The
BMA unit may be a little problematic. From reading the BMA forum, I know
there have been issues with getting good NMEA out of some of the BMA
devices, a call to Greg or the guys at Trio might be in order.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard McBride" <rickrv8(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Cost of Paint Job |
I had my -8 painted two summers ago. I probably got a dozen quotes from
companies with RV experience from all over the country. Mine was a
multi-colored paint scheme and my quotes ranged from about $4900 to $7000
for a single stage job and $6500 to $12,000 for a base coat/clear coat job.
I decided on a base coat/clear coat for $8500 from Prestige Paint in upsate
Vermont (see the Yellerpages). I would suggest you shop around.
Additionally, virtually every shop I spoke to said they include a few hours
labor for prep in their quote because they rarely experienced an airplane
that was indeed ready for final color coating. You'll be hard pressed to
get them to quote less unless they see your work.
Rick McBride
RV-8 N523RJ
>From: Shemp <shempdowling(at)gmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Cost of Paint Job
>Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 10:59:57 -0600
>
>
>I'm shopping around for a paint job and am getting sticker shock. The only
>"local" shop around Chicago told me his last RV paint job was $7200. I
>thought they typically cost around 5000. I've spent a lot of time on my
>glass stuff and its pretty much ready to paint. Anyone have a cost of a
>good relatively simple 2 color paint job that didnt require a lot of work
>by the painters?
>
>Shemp
>300+
>6a
>Chicago
>
>mike humphrey wrote:
>>
>>
>>Mike,
>>In my hanger I have the T-12 cold weather 8' units. Great lighting, work
>>in cold fine, easy to replace, just started replacing bulbs after 3 1/2
>>years continual use, pricey but great lighting. Lowe's carries the 8'
>>fixture and bulbs(green ends and they just push in, no twisting). In my
>>work areas I have added specific lighting to the situation. Bandsaw,
>>lathe, drill press (dangerous areas) have separate lighting on switches.
>>I would not hang any lighting on the 16' ceiling though. Lighting
>>disperses geometrically. So whatever lighting that you choose, suspend it
>>from some cheap chain and lower it to about 2-3 feet above your highest
>>point on the floor, ie tail of plane. Reflectors are cheaper than
>>lighting units and you will save electricity which equals $. More $ to
>>spend on RV's. Remember, whatever lighting that you put in, you will not
>>want to replace anytime soon, if ever, by lowering your units, maintenance
>>will be easier also, unless you just happen to have a 16' step ladder.
>>Mike H
>>9A/8A
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Kraus"
>>
>>To:
>>Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:01 AM
>>Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for information on
>>>what type of hanger lighting to install. The ceilings will be 16' tall
>>>and it is 44' x 60'. I would like good work lighting throughout. Also,
>>>if anyone knows of the light spacing it would help.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>-Mike Kraus
>>>RV-4 Flying
>>>RV-10 wiring
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Paint Job |
In a message dated 12/13/2007 12:36:18 PM Central Standard Time,
sbuc(at)hiwaay.net writes:
I used to think aircraft paint jobs were outrageously priced. After
painting a couple of planes, I am amazed a paint shop can stay in
business by only charging $7000.
>>>
Same here. Doug Reeves used to have paint shop reviews on his Vans Air Force
website, but it looks like they are gone. Here is a description of my most
excellent paint shop experience, courtesy of Bobby Potts at TCL, Tuscaloosa, AL
(you didn't REALLY want to paint in the snow, didja?!). Damage was $7K
almost 3yrs ago, and very happy to pay it:
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/)
(The Expercraft website seems to down right now, but try later- select
Painting link from bottom of left column of homepage above)
Mark Phillips
Columbia, TN
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Public vs Private use airpark - I know a little off topic |
Going public will make your airport property tax exempt...no property taxes
on the runway and hangars. The airpark we live on is a public airport and
as such has to be inspected by the state aviation department once a year.
Insurance is reasonable, under $3K/year.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Paint Job |
>When I painted my RV-6 eight years ago, my cost of materials (PPG
>Concept single stage) was close to $1000.
>
>Wish I could've sprayed my plane in two hours...bet I had 15 hours
>just in masking.............. )-:
>
>Sam Buchanan
I agree. And I only painted a single color with no primer! Even
with a single color, you still have to mask!?!
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: : TRIO AUTOPILOT & Anywhere Map/iPaq? |
Can the Trio read the signal from a hand held iPaq and Anywhere Map?
Kim Nicholas
Seattle
RV9A
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Cost of Paint Job |
Heres a pic of my 6a getting painted at my shop. I parked it in front during
the day to showoff but had to move it because it caused a few accidents with
the traffic out front. Any quality auto paint shop can do a great job. Just
pull the wings and flatbed the fuse. I did mine in basecoat clearcoat
because the painters were most familiar with that system. I think I have
500-600 in materials and 20hrs of shop time.
Steve dinieri
Iflyrv10
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cost of Paint Job
Andy Gold wrote:
>
> I painted my plane with three colors of Imron. The total cost of
> materials was about $400. I did all the prep work myself, built a booth
> in my garage, and asked a local pro to come over and squirt the top
> coat. He did a great job and had about 2 hours into the whole thing. I
> bought him a case of scotch and went flying with him a couple times.
> Everyone walked away very happy.
>
> With mine, the prep work was just that - "work". Its nothing difficult
> or anything that requries any unusual skills. But it takes a lot of
> time and that's why your local shop wants $7200. The only part of the
> job that takes skill and experience to get right is the final squirt.
>
> If you want to see how to prep and paint your RV, get Sam James's
> Painting 101 video. (Its at Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com )
>
When I painted my RV-6 eight years ago, my cost of materials (PPG
Concept single stage) was close to $1000.
Wish I could've sprayed my plane in two hours...bet I had 15 hours just
in masking.............. )-:
I used to think aircraft paint jobs were outrageously priced. After
painting a couple of planes, I am amazed a paint shop can stay in
business by only charging $7000.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Paint Job |
Man, am I glad I'm going the polished route!! I think I can do the few
fiberglass parts with spray bombs from Wal Mart...
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Andy Gold wrote:
>
> I painted my plane with three colors of Imron. The total cost of
> materials was about $400. I did all the prep work myself, built a
> booth in my garage, and asked a local pro to come over and squirt the
> top coat. He did a great job and had about 2 hours into the whole
> thing. I bought him a case of scotch and went flying with him a couple
> times. Everyone walked away very happy.
>
> With mine, the prep work was just that - "work". Its nothing difficult
> or anything that requries any unusual skills. But it takes a lot of
> time and that's why your local shop wants $7200. The only part of the
> job that takes skill and experience to get right is the final squirt.
>
> If you want to see how to prep and paint your RV, get Sam James's
> Painting 101 video. (Its at Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com )
>
> Andy
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shemp" <shempdowling(at)gmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 9:59 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Cost of Paint Job
>
>
>>
>> I'm shopping around for a paint job and am getting sticker shock.
>> The only "local" shop around Chicago told me his last RV paint job
>> was $7200. I thought they typically cost around 5000. I've spent a
>> lot of time on my glass stuff and its pretty much ready to paint.
>> Anyone have a cost of a good relatively simple 2 color paint job that
>> didnt require a lot of work by the painters?
>>
>> Shemp
>> 300+
>> 6a
>> Chicago
>>
>> mike humphrey wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Mike,
>>> In my hanger I have the T-12 cold weather 8' units. Great lighting,
>>> work in cold fine, easy to replace, just started replacing bulbs
>>> after 3 1/2 years continual use, pricey but great lighting. Lowe's
>>> carries the 8' fixture and bulbs(green ends and they just push in,
>>> no twisting). In my work areas I have added specific lighting to
>>> the situation. Bandsaw, lathe, drill press (dangerous areas) have
>>> separate lighting on switches. I would not hang any lighting on the
>>> 16' ceiling though. Lighting disperses geometrically. So whatever
>>> lighting that you choose, suspend it from some cheap chain and lower
>>> it to about 2-3 feet above your highest point on the floor, ie tail
>>> of plane. Reflectors are cheaper than lighting units and you will
>>> save electricity which equals $. More $ to spend on RV's.
>>> Remember, whatever lighting that you put in, you will not want to
>>> replace anytime soon, if ever, by lowering your units, maintenance
>>> will be easier also, unless you just happen to have a 16' step ladder.
>>> Mike H
>>> 9A/8A
>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Kraus"
>>>
>>> To:
>>> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:01 AM
>>> Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: Hanger Lighting
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I am building a new hanger on my house and was looking for
>>>> information on what type of hanger lighting to install. The
>>>> ceilings will be 16' tall and it is 44' x 60'. I would like good
>>>> work lighting throughout. Also, if anyone knows of the light
>>>> spacing it would help.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks
>>>> -Mike Kraus
>>>> RV-4 Flying
>>>> RV-10 wiring
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Medema" <doug.medema(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Paint Job |
I just got done having my plane painted. I also shopped
around and
had quotes of $7000 (plus any required body work) to
$10,000. I
decided it was too much and would do it on my own. Boy was
I
naive!
I couldn't do anything in my own hangar at a public airport,
so I
made arrangements to work at a friend's hangar at an
airpark. I
proceeded to take the whole airplane apart and set up a
paint
booth in a Costco car tent in my back yard. I bought a big
compressor and a DeVilbiss FinishLine 3 HVLP gun. Based
on Randy Lervold's recommendations, I went with PPG Concept.
I washed, acid etched, scuffed and alodyned all the
aluminum. I
spent a lot of time on the fiberglass and used almost a
whole gallon
of K38 high build primer, most of which ended up on
everything
in my shop when I sanded it off. I also used quite a bit of
SuperFil. I started painting the color coats with white
Concept.
It wasn't great, but it wasn't horrible either. Had the
usual
problems with dust, runs, and orange peel. There is a real
art
to putting on the final coat. You really can't sand very
much
because you will cut through a rivet or just a high spot on
the
aluminum. When I painted the empennage fairing with a dark
blue, I kind of lost it. The one piece had orange peel,
runs, and
dust everywhere, even with fans and filters. I decided I
couldn't
do a job I would be happy with. I went back to the shop who
quoted $10,000 and asked them how much just to put on
the color. They said between $3000 and $4000. Based on
really good review from a person I trust (Terry Burch), I
decided
to go ahead an do that. I brought the pieces to them in
sanded primer/sealer. They had to spray a coat of primer
and
then basecoat clearcoat. I ended up eating some Concept,
but that's the way it goes. I spent upwards of 200 hours
over the summer doing the prep and priming. I know it's a
lot
of hours, but there is a lot to do, especially with the
fiberglass
work. There are a lot of pin holes and they will show up if
you don't totally take care of them. I had one of the very
first
S type cowls, and it was rough in places. I ended up
spending
about $3000 for materials plus $3800 to the paint shop.
This
doesn't count the compressor, paint gun, tent, lights, fans,
etc.
Plenty of people paint there own airplanes, and I admire
them
for it. It is a lot of work. I took my plane down in late
April
and didn't fly again until September. In hindsight, I
really
wished I had just bit the bullet and had the whole thing
done.
That is one person's opinion. Your mileage may vary.
If your curious on how it came out, check out:
home.comcast.net/~doug.medema.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
Date: 12/13/2007 9:15 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Lassetter" <rblassett(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Paint Job |
Doug,
Man you hit the nail on the head. I've painted a few airplanes and the
amount of work required for a nice finish is much more than you would think.
Russ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Medema
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 6:13 PM
To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Cost of Paint Job
I just got done having my plane painted. I also shopped around and
had quotes of $7000 (plus any required body work) to $10,000. I
decided it was too much and would do it on my own. Boy was I
naive!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Paint Job |
Hi Doug,
Good advice. There is the pride of having done most of it yourself and I'm
sure it was a good learning experience. Regardless of how you got there the
plane looks fabulous! I can't wait to see it in person.
Dave,
RV6
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Medema
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 3:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Cost of Paint Job
I just got done having my plane painted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: : TRIO AUTOPILOT & Anywhere Map/iPaq? |
Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
> Can the Trio read the signal from a hand held iPaq and Anywhere Map?
>
> Kim Nicholas
> Seattle
> RV9A
Kim, the last I heard on this matter was....no. It seems AWM doesn't
send the data in a format that EZ-Pilot needs in order to clear the
tight filters that are part of the Trio software.
I know Trio was working with a customer that had AWM so I suggest a call
to Trio to make sure some recent developments haven't proved me wrong.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TRIO AUTOPILOT |
I have a 396 and it works fine. There is a special connector you can get from
Garmin and others that has single wires coming out to splice into your autopilot
harness. I think I got mine right from Garmin if I remember.
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: Michael W Stewart <mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 11:21:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: TRIO AUTOPILOT
Both can be used to drive the Trio.
I know cause I have done so with both myself.
Mike
Bruno
Bruno
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
12/13/2007 11:41 AM
Please respond to
rv-list(at)matronics.com
To
RV LIST
cc
Subject
RV-List: TRIO AUTOPILOT
Hello Sam
Did you required a special cable to hook up your handheld
GPS to your TRIO?
I have a Garmin 295 that I could use for this purpose or the GPS built in my BMA
Efis Lite G3.
Cheers
Bruno
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bobperk90658(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Trio EZ-Pilot or Altitude Hold
Sam,
You know that the accuracy of the GPS coupled to the autopilot is probably what
caused the Brazilian GOL 737, and the Embraer Legacy 600 Collision in October
06 both were at 37,000 feet and on opposing courses between Brasilia and Manause,
both probably used the airport coordinates in a common data base. There
are probably not more than 75 airplanes in the air in northern Brasil at one time.
Sometimes being accurate down to the micron is not good, and being able
to fly an offset course is good. The Trio will do that easily all day long.
Just a thought. Trying to justify being a sloppy pilot }:>)
Bob Perkinson
I still marvel at how a sub-$2000 autopilot can hold my plane within a
wingspan of the course line with an inexpensive handheld GPS providing
the data! How many King Airs and Citations can match that? :-)
Sam Buchanan
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: : TRIO AUTOPILOT & Anywhere Map/iPaq? |
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>> Can the Trio read the signal from a hand held iPaq and Anywhere Map?
>>
>> Kim Nicholas
>> Seattle
>> RV9A
Update:
I have just been informed from a *very* good source (its amazing how
many vendors monitor these forums!) that at least some of the versions
of AnywhereMap software do indeed output a data stream that works nicely
with the EZ-Pilot.
However.....the problem lies with the new PDA platforms that don't
provide a serial port. Many of the newest PDAs only provide Bluetooth
connectivity and there is considerable concern as to whether or not
Bluetooth is reliable enough to be driving an autopilot, and Trio
doesn't support Bluetooth connectivity.
So, if you have an older PDA that has a RS232 data port, AWM may indeed
drive an autopilot. When I was actively using AWM in their earlier days,
it would sorta drive my old Navaid, but left me high and dry when I
upgraded to the EZ-Pilot. Apparently some of the newer versions of the
software play nice with the EZ-Pilot.
As usual, the best course to take is to call the vendors and get the
scoop directly from them.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Server Issue?: RV-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 12/09/07 |
| From: | "Alan" <alan(at)reichertech.com> |
Is anyone besides me getting bombarded with multiple copies of the digest
below? E-mails to Matronics have gone unanswered.
- Alan
On Mon, December 10, 2007 2:57 am, RV-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 07-12-09&Archive=RV
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 07-12-09&Archive=RV
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 12/09/07: 9
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 06:52 AM - Re: KLX-135A Internal Battery (David Burton)
> 2. 06:52 AM - Re: Condition Inspection Log Entry (Tim Bryan)
> 3. 07:29 AM - Re: KLX-135A Internal Battery (Denis Walsh)
> 4. 08:35 AM - Apollo GX?? was:KLX-135A Internal Battery (RV6 Flyer)
> 5. 08:36 AM - F697 thickness? (hat section in front deck structure)
> (ceengland(at)bellsouth.net)
> 6. 09:14 AM - Re: F697 thickness? (hat section in front deck
> structure) (Bob Collins)
> 7. 10:35 AM - Re: KLX-135A Internal Battery (Vanremog(at)aol.com)
> 8. 04:38 PM - Re: F697 thickness? (hat section in front deck
> structure) (Charlie England)
> 9. 05:41 PM - GRETZ AERO ELECTRIC TRIM MOD FOR RV-4 (RV4WGH(at)aol.com)
>
<...>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halbenjamin(at)optonline.net |
Hello all,
I'm at the point on my RV-4 project that I have to cough up a wad of cash & buy
an O-320. I'm contemplating purchasing an experimental engine from one of the
following: Van's, Mattituck, or Aerosport. I live about 20 minutes from Matittuck,
so I'm leaning in that direction, any thoughts?
Hal Benjamin RV-4
Long Island, New York
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
I've heard nothing but great things about Aerosport, but no experience
with them or any other. I'm a long way from needing things that go vroom ;)
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
halbenjamin(at)optonline.net wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I'm at the point on my RV-4 project that I have to cough up a wad of
> cash & buy an O-320. I'm contemplating purchasing an experimental
> engine from one of the following: Van's, Mattituck, or Aerosport. I
> live about 20 minutes from Matittuck, so I'm leaning in that
> direction, any thoughts?
>
> Hal Benjamin RV-4
> Long Island, New York
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
YEP. Go for Mattituck if they are your Neighbors anyway. And if you are
unhappy for whatever unforeseen reason that may crop up, then you can go
to actually see them face to face to resolve the problem...
----- Original Message -----
From: halbenjamin(at)optonline.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 8:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: O-320
Hello all,
I'm at the point on my RV-4 project that I have to cough up a wad of
cash & buy an O-320. I'm contemplating purchasing an experimental engine
from one of the following: Van's, Mattituck, or Aerosport. I live about
20 minutes from Matittuck, so I'm leaning in that direction, any
thoughts?
Hal Benjamin RV-4
Long Island, New York
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
I'd say that's a givin, buy from Matittuck! I'd go there and build it if
you could, I think they have a program that allows you to do that.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
halbenjamin(at)optonline.net wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I'm at the point on my RV-4 project that I have to cough up a wad of
> cash & buy an O-320. I'm contemplating purchasing an experimental
> engine from one of the following: Van's, Mattituck, or Aerosport. I
> live about 20 minutes from Matittuck, so I'm leaning in that
> direction, any thoughts?
>
> Hal Benjamin RV-4
> Long Island, New York
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n(at)optonline.net |
Hey Hal,
I live in Mattituck and originally wanted to buy locally at the time but it was
less expensive for me to buy from Aerosport and pay the shipping than to drive
five minutes and pick it up from Mattituck. I have no idea how competitive
they are now. Aerosport has a good reputation and I have no regrets having bought
from them. There was only one or two times I had to contact Aerosport after
the purchase during the installation and they were very helpful. I would
suggest delaying buying from anyone for as long as possible because in my case
it was still about two years from purchase to first run.
Where are you building?
Bob (RV6n) at FOK
----- Original Message -----
From: halbenjamin(at)optonline.net
Date: Friday, December 14, 2007 10:31 pm
Subject: RV-List: O-320
> Hello all,
>
> I'm at the point on my RV-4 project that I have to cough up a
> wad of cash & buy an O-320. I'm contemplating purchasing an
> experimental engine from one of the following: Van's, Mattituck,
> or Aerosport. I live about 20 minutes from Matittuck, so I'm
> leaning in that direction, any thoughts?
>
> Hal Benjamin RV-4
> Long Island, New York
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
I agree with Konrad but FWIW ........I have been very pleased with the
O-360 purchased from Aerosport Power. Now has 179 hours. Needed to
contact them two times and their response was excellent.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Konrad L. Werner
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
YEP. Go for Mattituck if they are your Neighbors anyway. And if you
are unhappy for whatever unforeseen reason that may crop up, then you
can go to actually see them face to face to resolve the problem...
----- Original Message -----
From: halbenjamin(at)optonline.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 8:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: O-320
Hello all,
I'm at the point on my RV-4 project that I have to cough up a wad of
cash & buy an O-320. I'm contemplating purchasing an experimental engine
from one of the following: Van's, Mattituck, or Aerosport. I live about
20 minutes from Matittuck, so I'm leaning in that direction, any
thoughts?
Hal Benjamin RV-4
Long Island, New York
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
Perhaps the other reason would be *final cost*... I'd get a bid from
each of the many engine builders and shop around for what you really
want. I don't know what the sales tax situation is like in L.I.,NY, but
it may even cost more in sales tax alone then what it would cost for
getting a Bartized Lycosaurus shipped from Canada. Aerosport Power has
certainly earned themselves a stellar reputation (not to put down
Mattituck, PenYan, LyCon and the various many other custom shops). Your
call, but I would simply visit Mattituck to see what they would have in
store for you, and then compare apples to apples... Good Luck!
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Ensing
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 6:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
I agree with Konrad but FWIW ........I have been very pleased with the
O-360 purchased from Aerosport Power. Now has 179 hours. Needed to
contact them two times and their response was excellent.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Konrad L. Werner
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
YEP. Go for Mattituck if they are your Neighbors anyway. And if you
are unhappy for whatever unforeseen reason that may crop up, then you
can go to actually see them face to face to resolve the problem...
----- Original Message -----
From: halbenjamin(at)optonline.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 8:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: O-320
Hello all,
I'm at the point on my RV-4 project that I have to cough up a wad
of cash & buy an O-320. I'm contemplating purchasing an experimental
engine from one of the following: Van's, Mattituck, or Aerosport. I
live about 20 minutes from Matittuck, so I'm leaning in that direction,
any thoughts?
Hal Benjamin RV-4
Long Island, New York
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Just to throw a wrench in the deal, I have from some builders that the
import of goods from Canada triggers their local tax authority and they
have gotten hefty bills. In our case, the state of OK passed HB1577
last year exempting all aircraft parts/repairs from sales tax to the end
user. I have a customer in another state whose friend is over tax
collection, and there has been discussion that the state he resides in
may not be able to collect tax on his engine because of our state
doesn't tax anyone, including its own residents for aircraft parts. If
you have an accountant, you could always ask them to write the tax
commission for a ruling on the taxability of the item by giving a
hypothetical situation.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
<http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com/>
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Konrad L.
Werner
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 9:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
Perhaps the other reason would be *final cost*... I'd get a bid from
each of the many engine builders and shop around for what you really
want. I don't know what the sales tax situation is like in L.I.,NY, but
it may even cost more in sales tax alone then what it would cost for
getting a Bartized Lycosaurus shipped from Canada. Aerosport Power has
certainly earned themselves a stellar reputation (not to put down
Mattituck, PenYan, LyCon and the various many other custom shops). Your
call, but I would simply visit Mattituck to see what they would have in
store for you, and then compare apples to apples... Good Luck!
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Ensing <mailto:densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 6:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
I agree with Konrad but FWIW ........I have been very pleased
with the O-360 purchased from Aerosport Power. Now has 179 hours. Needed
to contact them two times and their response was excellent.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Konrad L. Werner <mailto:klwerner(at)comcast.net>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
YEP. Go for Mattituck if they are your Neighbors anyway.
And if you are unhappy for whatever unforeseen reason that may crop up,
then you can go to actually see them face to face to resolve the
problem...
----- Original Message -----
From: halbenjamin(at)optonline.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 8:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: O-320
Hello all,
I'm at the point on my RV-4 project that I have
to cough up a wad of cash & buy an O-320. I'm contemplating purchasing
an experimental engine from one of the following: Van's, Mattituck, or
Aerosport. I live about 20 minutes from Matittuck, so I'm leaning in
that direction, any thoughts?
Hal Benjamin RV-4
Long Island, New York
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
h
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.c
o
m/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
h
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.c
o
m/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 12/15/2007 1:36:27 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
wnorth(at)sdccd.edu writes:
In the time memorialized words of Aldus Huxley "Ooh that was a bad trip,
please do not archive."
================================================
Anyone who has read The Doors of Perception gets the nod in my book, even if
he misspells Aldous.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 872hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Reeves <n516dr(at)yahoo.com> |
Another important thing to consider is the warranty. I went with Aerosport Power
for a variety of reasons but the deciding factor for me was the warranty.
It's associated with the first start rather than with the purchase date.
"Konrad L. Werner" wrote: Perhaps the other reason
would be *final cost*... I'd get a bid from each of the many engine builders
and shop around for what you really want. I don't know what the sales tax
situation is like in L.I.,NY, but it may even cost more in sales tax alone then
what it would cost for getting a Bartized Lycosaurus shipped from Canada. Aerosport
Power has certainly earned themselves a stellar reputation (not to put
down Mattituck, PenYan, LyCon and the various many other custom shops). Your
call, but I would simply visit Mattituck to see what they would have in store
for you, and then compare apples to apples... Good Luck!
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Ensing
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 6:03 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
I agree with Konrad but FWIW ........I have been very pleased with the O-360
purchased from Aerosport Power. Now has 179 hours. Needed to contact them two
times and their response was excellent.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Konrad L. Werner
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
YEP. Go for Mattituck if they are your Neighbors anyway. And if you are unhappy
for whatever unforeseen reason that may crop up, then you can go to actually
see them face to face to resolve the problem...
----- Original Message -----
From: halbenjamin(at)optonline.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 8:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: O-320
Hello all,
I'm at the point on my RV-4 project that I have to cough up a wad of cash & buy
an O-320. I'm contemplating purchasing an experimental engine from one of the
following: Van's, Mattituck, or Aerosport. I live about 20 minutes from Matittuck,
so I'm leaning in that direction, any thoughts?
Hal Benjamin RV-4
Long Island, New York
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pants fairings etc. |
bert murillo wrote:
> Hi: I have posted a couple messages, no respond.. I will try again.
> Does any one knows, any one that sells the fairings for the
> rv6a...the wheels and legs fairings... other than Van's or Bob's I
> do not want to pay that kind of money...I will be willing to pay $150
> for the set..
Bert, I think you will have to raise your threshold in order to purchase
ready-made fairings.
I have been flying the TeamRocket fairings for several years:
http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com/TeamRocketAircraftcgi/hazel.exe
Their fairings are $150 for the set but you must use their gear leg
fairings. Here are details of my installation:
http://thervjournal.com/fairings.htm
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Reuven Silberman <pilots2(at)yahoo.com> |
Adios Huxley. Wasnt he one of our esteemed congress persons who opened The Doors
to our current immigration policies? Perceived or otherwise.
Unsigned to prevent visits in the night.
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote: In a message dated 12/15/2007 1:36:27 A.M. Pacific
Standard Time, wnorth(at)sdccd.edu writes:
In the time memorialized words of Aldus Huxley "Ooh that was a bad trip,
please do not archive."
=======================
Anyone who has read The Doors of Perception gets the nod in my book, even if
he misspells Aldous.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 872hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
---------------------------------
See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter.
"No pressure, no diamonds".
~Thomas Carlyle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pants fairings etc. |
In a message dated 12/15/2007 4:55:59 PM Central Standard Time, robertrv
607(at)yahoo.com writes:
I will be willing to pay $150 for the set..
Can you be more specific? Are you talking about the pants, leg fairings AND
upper & lower intersection fairings? Plus, I noticed you are one of the smart
guys like me with a nosewheel (uh-oh!!) which means three of everything,
basically- I think you could spend almost that much just for tools & material to
make them all-
Other wise, can some one tell me how difficult would be to make my own.....
If you are a masochist, that helps. There are those who actually "enjoy"
delving into the black art of fiberglass, but IMHO they retire to padded rooms
in
the evening. 8-) Seriously, unless you already know how to work this
stuff, you could spend a great deal of $time$ learning the mysteries of
fiberglass. But if you have the patience and time, you could sure get all the
information you need off the Internet. Browse these publications offered by The
Builders Bookstore:
_http://www.actechbooks.com/airframeCOMPOSITES.htm_
(http://www.actechbooks.com/airframeCOMPOSITES.htm)
Even buying the parts offered by Van's, Fairings etc. and Team Rocket (among
others) will result in much time spent whipping them into useable condition.
If your personal standards for fit/finish are particularly high, you will
spend much, much more time. I have used components from all of the above and they
are all OK if all you want is OK- if you want exceptional, buy from the same
places and plan on a lot of shoptime fine-tuning each part. My personal
experience is that the offerings from the latter two are pretty darn good-
especially that upper nosewheel fairing from Fairings etc. that was an almost perfect
fit right out of the box- (Thanks, Bob!)
Here's some of my log entries from building my plane, if interested:
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_list&c=68_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_list&c=68)
Have fun!
Mark Phillips
Columbia, TN
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/)
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pants fairings etc. |
I will be willing to pay $150 for the set..
My suggestion is either forget about using them and the significanty
speed
penalty that you will pay OR
Pay the price and be done with it. Don't make a few flights if you have
to
to "pay" for the cost.
OR
Place a WTB ad somewhere and hope that someone wants to sell theirs
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halbenjamin(at)optonline.net |
Thanks to all for the comments. I'll be talking to Aerosport next week & figure
it out from there.
Hal Benjamin RV-4
HWV - Long Island, New York
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Reeves
Date: Saturday, December 15, 2007 3:12 pm
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
> Another important thing to consider is the warranty. I went
> with Aerosport Power for a variety of reasons but the deciding
> factor for me was the warranty. It's associated with the first
> start rather than with the purchase date.
>
> "Konrad L. Werner" wrote:
> Perhaps the other reason would be *final cost*... I'd get a bid
> from each of the many engine builders and shop around for what
> you really want. I don't know what the sales tax situation is
> like in L.I.,NY, but it may even cost more in sales tax alone
> then what it would cost for getting a Bartized Lycosaurus
> shipped from Canada. Aerosport Power has certainly earned
> themselves a stellar reputation (not to put down Mattituck,
> PenYan, LyCon and the various many other custom shops). Your
> call, but I would simply visit Mattituck to see what they would
> have in store for you, and then compare apples to apples...
> Good Luck!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dale Ensing
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 6:03 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
>
>
> I agree with Konrad but FWIW ........I have been very pleased
> with the O-360 purchased from Aerosport Power. Now has 179
> hours. Needed to contact them two times and their response was
> excellent. Dale Ensing
> RV-6A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Konrad L. Werner
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 10:32 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
>
>
> YEP. Go for Mattituck if they are your Neighbors anyway. And
> if you are unhappy for whatever unforeseen reason that may crop
> up, then you can go to actually see them face to face to resolve
> the problem...
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: halbenjamin(at)optonline.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 8:15 PM
> Subject: RV-List: O-320
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm at the point on my RV-4 project that I have to cough up a
> wad of cash & buy an O-320. I'm contemplating purchasing an
> experimental engine from one of the following: Van's, Mattituck,
> or Aerosport. I live about 20 minutes from Matittuck, so I'm
> leaning in that direction, any thoughts?
>
> Hal Benjamin RV-4
> Long Island, New York
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
My last two messages did not go thru :-(
--
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
My last few messages have not made it to the list :-(
--
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
Aerosport, hands down. My next, middle, last, er..all engines will be from Aerosport.
'nuff said.
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 8:27:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
I've heard nothing but great things about Aerosport, but no experience
with them or any other. I'm a long way from needing things that go
vroom ;)
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
halbenjamin(at)optonline.net wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I'm at the point on my RV-4 project that I have to cough up a wad of
> cash & buy an O-320. I'm contemplating purchasing an experimental
> engine from one of the following: Van's, Mattituck, or Aerosport. I
> live about 20 minutes from Matittuck, so I'm leaning in that
> direction, any thoughts?
>
> Hal Benjamin RV-4
> Long Island, New York
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
That's OK. This one didn't make it either.....8*)
Merry Christmas & HO HO HO. KABONG
>From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
>Date: 2007/12/15 Sat PM 10:46:02 CST
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: test
>
>My last few messages have not made it to the list :-(
>
>--
>----
>Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Gel Coated Fairings |
Greetings:
Have an "older" Emphennage Kit (circa 1999) that came
with Gel Coated F.G. Fairings.
1) Do the "newer" Kits from Vans still come with the
Gel Coated Fairings ?
2) My understanding from reading the Archieves is
that the Gel Coat is used over Polyester Resin F.G.
parts and not over Epoxy Resin F.G. Parts. Is this
true ?
3) Is it worth buying from Vans the "newer" NON Gel
Coated Fairings (assuming they come that way now) than
trying to work with the existing Gel Coated fairings
that I have ?
4) What is the purpose of the Gel Coat - mold release
?
5) What Grit / Method used - would you recommend to
take off the Gel Coat (and not digging into the F.G.
weave) ?
6) Is it recommended to remove ALL the Gel Coat down
to the F.G. weave so that any "flexing" of the F.G.
fairing will not crack any final Top Coat of paint in
the future ? [My Fairing on the TOP of the VS will be
removable for access to the VOR Antenna - should that
be necessary and could flex during removal and crack
the Top Coat of paint.]
7) Any helpful HINTS on getting a nice Fairing / Skin
edge line where the Fairing meets the Skin and still
keeping the Fairing removable ? [Will be using #6
Screws into Nutplates riveted to the F.G. Fairing]
Appreciate your helpful inputs,
Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gel Coated Fairings |
Gareys
In general, gelcoat is your friend. It supplies a smooth pinhole free
surface that is more or less ready to paint. Unless your gelcoat is damaged
(spiderweb cracks), or the part needs to be seriously reworked by cutting
away part or adding to the part, there is no need to remove it. In fact,
you'll be creating a lot of work for yourself because you'll have to
completely refinish the part once you sand it down to the glass.
I believe the wingtips and empennage tips are made with polyester resin and
are still supplied with gelcoat. Cowlings and landing gear fairings are
from epoxy resin and don't have gelcoat.
On getting a nice skin/fairing line, I don't know any specific techniques
other than fit, cut, fill, sand, and repeat until you're happy with the
finished product. Sorry!
Kyle Boatright
2001 RV-6
N46KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garey Wittich" <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 2:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Gel Coated Fairings
>
> Greetings:
>
> Have an "older" Emphennage Kit (circa 1999) that came
> with Gel Coated F.G. Fairings.
>
> 1) Do the "newer" Kits from Vans still come with the
> Gel Coated Fairings ?
>
> 2) My understanding from reading the Archieves is
> that the Gel Coat is used over Polyester Resin F.G.
> parts and not over Epoxy Resin F.G. Parts. Is this
> true ?
>
> 3) Is it worth buying from Vans the "newer" NON Gel
> Coated Fairings (assuming they come that way now) than
> trying to work with the existing Gel Coated fairings
> that I have ?
>
> 4) What is the purpose of the Gel Coat - mold release
> ?
>
> 5) What Grit / Method used - would you recommend to
> take off the Gel Coat (and not digging into the F.G.
> weave) ?
>
> 6) Is it recommended to remove ALL the Gel Coat down
> to the F.G. weave so that any "flexing" of the F.G.
> fairing will not crack any final Top Coat of paint in
> the future ? [My Fairing on the TOP of the VS will be
> removable for access to the VOR Antenna - should that
> be necessary and could flex during removal and crack
> the Top Coat of paint.]
>
> 7) Any helpful HINTS on getting a nice Fairing / Skin
> edge line where the Fairing meets the Skin and still
> keeping the Fairing removable ? [Will be using #6
> Screws into Nutplates riveted to the F.G. Fairing]
>
> Appreciate your helpful inputs,
>
> Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>
>
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Gel Coated Fairings |
I can't answer all your questions definitively and the ones I can are as
much opinion as fact, so you'll likely get more than one answer from the
list. But here goes:
Gel coat is most commonly used over poly; it's often just a colored
finishing resin painted into the mold before the first ply is laid down with
plying resin. Its purpose is to provide a finished surface. In practical
use, this is almost never the final surface because seams will be visible
or, in the case of our RVs, the molded color will not be the desired finish
color. I've flown competition model sailplanes for year with molded
components and the competitors usually leave them alone; lightness is more
important than cosmetic detail.
Gelcoat can be sanded, use a fine grit so you don't gouge the gel or dig
into the weave. You just want enough "tooth" for your primer; sand until
the shine is gone. Wipe with a solvent or alcohol (I like MEK) to remove
dust and any mold release (gelcoat itself isn't a mold release, so the mold
is usually first coated with release). Flexing should not be a problem for
your finish; you shouldn't have to squeeze the fairing much to get it on.
The biggest problem area will be filling the gap between the parts. Filler
tends to crack and while epoxy can be used over poly, filling with resin
usually leaves a brittle edge.
What you should do is fit the fairing with a little gap built in, say 1/16"
to 1/8". Then go back and carefully sand the sharp molded corners working
along the surface of the piece, not down into it. This will enlarge the gap
but not cut down into the weave. Both the inside and outside corners of the
joggle should be rounded; the main purpose is to ensure that the entire area
has been sanded to receive the fill. The flat area of the joggle should
also be lightly sanded. Mix up some epoxy filler, using flox until it is
fairly stiff. Wax or mold release the empennage along the joint both
inside, outside, and along the edge (if it were me, I'd do this with clecos
rather than after the screws and nutplates are fitted, to avoid epoxy in bad
places). Paint the gap with extra epoxy and apply the filler. Let harden
and then sand the joint smooth before carefully separating the parts. That
should leave you with an exact fit that won't easily crack.
By the way, consider the wingtip VOR antenna; saves you from having to make
the empennage fairing removable and from having the antenna sticking out of
the tail. The instructions for making the joint still apply except that you
can fill after the fairings have been riveted on and you can obviously skip
the mold release.
Pat Kelley - RV-6A - Making antenna cable runs to the panel.
-----Original Message-----
Greetings:
Have an "older" Emphennage Kit (circa 1999) that came
with Gel Coated F.G. Fairings.
1) Do the "newer" Kits from Vans still come with the
Gel Coated Fairings ?
2) My understanding from reading the Archieves is
that the Gel Coat is used over Polyester Resin F.G.
parts and not over Epoxy Resin F.G. Parts. Is this
true ?
3) Is it worth buying from Vans the "newer" NON Gel
Coated Fairings (assuming they come that way now) than
trying to work with the existing Gel Coated fairings
that I have ?
4) What is the purpose of the Gel Coat - mold release
?
5) What Grit / Method used - would you recommend to
take off the Gel Coat (and not digging into the F.G.
weave) ?
6) Is it recommended to remove ALL the Gel Coat down
to the F.G. weave so that any "flexing" of the F.G.
fairing will not crack any final Top Coat of paint in
the future ? [My Fairing on the TOP of the VS will be
removable for access to the VOR Antenna - should that
be necessary and could flex during removal and crack
the Top Coat of paint.]
7) Any helpful HINTS on getting a nice Fairing / Skin
edge line where the Fairing meets the Skin and still
keeping the Fairing removable ? [Will be using #6
Screws into Nutplates riveted to the F.G. Fairing]
Appreciate your helpful inputs,
Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 12/16/2007 4:07:30 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
cjensen(at)dts9000.com writes:
Unfortunately, there are no assigned value to my nods, since they are not
traded on any exchanges, even though they are invaluable. If they were
convertible to a currency, the exchange rate with the value of the dollar would
still be incalculable since one can not divide by "0".
=======================================
I have been to ancient Greece...just look at this grape...
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 872hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
Catherwood? Put down that pickle!
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
> I have been to ancient Greece...just look at this grape...
>
>
>
> *N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 872hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)*
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> See AOL's top rated recipes
> <http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004> and
> easy ways to stay in shape
> <http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aoltop00030000000003>
> for winter.
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 2006 RV-6A Xmas Special $59,500 |
| From: | Parker Thomas <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
Merry Christmas to the listers...
2006 RV-6A for $59,500. See pictures at http://web.mac.com/fpthomas.
Currently on the ramp in front of the tower at KHWD.
Lycoming O-320 E3D 130 SMOH. This engine is NOT compatible with a CS prop.
Aymar-Demuth fixed wood prop (it looks metal in the pictures, but it is
wood). Sliding canopy, electric flaps, day/night VFR. First flight was on
February 15th, 2006. The interior is from Classic Aero with carpet under
the feet and baggage area, upholstered vinyl and cloth seats and side
coverings in all areas. The panel has a Vision Microsystems VM1000C (color
display) monitoring all 4 CHT=B9s and EGT=B9s, fuel pressure, fuel flow, gallon
s
burned and remaining, oil temp and pressure, voltage and amps, RPM and
manifold pressure, OAT and CAT and left and right fuel levels all on one 6
inch screen. It also has a panel-mounted Garmin 296, a NARCO transponder
and an Icom A-200 Radio with emergency inputs that bypass the intercom. Th
e
big 6 gauges are all overhauled or new. The intercom is Flightcom from
Van=B9s. Engine was overhauled in January 2005 =AD see web site for A&P signof
f
with a list of replaced parts.
Other little things: upgraded fuel valve, right stick PTT is on the panel s
o
the stick can be removed, both pilot and copilot brakes. One strobe light
on the top of the vertical stabilizer with nav lights on both wings and
tail. One landing light on left wing. Red map lights on both sides of the
cockpit. Entire airframe primed with zinc chromate.
I purchased the kit almost flying from an A&P builder, removed the panel an
d
replaced every wire, switch and gauge. This is the second RV I=B9ve finishe
d
- the first was an RV-8 I built from a QB fuse and slow-build wing set.
Call me at 510-393-9876.
Parker
____________________________________
F. Parker Thomas
me(at)parkerthomas.com
www.parkerthomas.com
Phone 510-393-9876
Fax 510-225-2358
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert Murillo" <bertrv6(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Micro Air Radio or Xcom 760? |
Hi:
Would like to hear from those with either or these two radios..
Some one responded, on the Micro air, with comments that there was
some problem with ground on the Pilot PTT?, but it was fixed.
The price is better on this, thatn on the Xcom 760...
Thanks for comments and information.
Bert
rv6a
do not arlchive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <ken(at)striblingranch.com> |
| Subject: | Micro Air Radio or Xcom 760? |
I Had a micro air when I first started flying my 6 and soon changed it out
for a full size radio.
I found that it was really difficult to change channels in rough air and
hard to see the readout in bright sun. This was back in 2000 so things may
have changed sense then.
Happy Holidays All
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bert Murillo
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: Micro Air Radio or Xcom 760?
Hi:
Would like to hear from those with either or these two radios..
Some one responded, on the Micro air, with comments that there was
some problem with ground on the Pilot PTT?, but it was fixed.
The price is better on this, thatn on the Xcom 760...
Thanks for comments and information.
Bert
rv6a
do not arlchive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | MT-Prop Governor |
I recently test flighted a new RV with an Aerosport IO-360, Hartzell BA prop
and MT governor, and the prop would surge approximately 150-200 rpms about
once per second under takeoff & climb power. Pretty darn interesting on a first
flight. After calling Hartzell (they new about it and suggested calling
Vans), Vans (the tech guy I talked to seemed a bit evasive, but gave me MTs
phone#), then MT, I finally learned that any of their governors with a model #
with
anything earlier than an -F suffix has to be returned for modification to an -F
series level. This particular governor was a -B series purchased from Vans
about 16-18 months ago. Off to MT in DeLand Florida it went and was back in
about 10 days- It now performs perfectly.
But- I recently visited a builder near me who had bought the same governor,
but had not yet installed it. I asked to see it and it is a -C series unit.
He had no idea that when he installed it on his plane and had the surging
problem he would have to pull it for modification as well- quite a hassle on a
flying airplane, much easier to do before initial installation of course.
I sent Vans a polite e-mail asking if they were aware of this situation, and
if so, were they planning to notify those who had bought these governors. No
response in over a week, so I thought I'd give y'all a little heads-up so you
can avoid the same hassle I had. If you have one of these units, contact
Juergen at: _http://www.mt-propellerusa.com/home.htm_
(http://www.mt-propellerusa.com/home.htm)
Mark Phillips, RV-6A "Mojo"
Columbia, TN
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/)
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pants fairings etc. |
At 11:03 AM 12/16/07, you wrote:
>Other wise, can some one tell me how difficult would be to make my
>own.....Those with the talent to do this, can send me photos, and
>'details of how to do it etc...
Bert
You are going to have to buy some technical books on "how to" not
only for fiberglass but for building in general. This list is good,
but the books will provide pictures and step by step instructions.
I was reading one of Tony Bingilis's books last night about this very
topic. Of course there are other books by other authors. Check with
Andy Gold for some good ones (he is on the list, RV Bookstore).
As far as how hard it is, once again that is a personal question. I
find working with fiberglass very easy and I am fairly good at it,
and that comes from years of practice. I would have no problem
making wheel pants, but for me I would estimate 300 hours of work and
a cost of about $150.00 for materials and equipment.
Buying from Van's seems to be the way to go, my time is worth more
than 50 cents an hour (assuming Van's wheel pants cost approx
$300.00!) If you are trying to save money and you have plenty of
time on your hands, then making your own is the way to go.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT-Prop Governor |
Mark,
The governor may well need to be updated, but the surging you mention
can also be caused by the fine pitch stop on the prop being too fine.
The way to test it is to do a static full power run-up. The prop should
not turn more than around 2625 rpm, 2640 tops. If it does, adjust the
fine pitch stop to a slightly courser setting.
Randy Lervold
Camas, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 10:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: MT-Prop Governor
I recently test flighted a new RV with an Aerosport IO-360, Hartzell
BA prop and MT governor, and the prop would surge approximately 150-200
rpms about once per second under takeoff & climb power. Pretty darn
interesting on a first flight. After calling Hartzell (they new about
it and suggested calling Vans), Vans (the tech guy I talked to seemed a
bit evasive, but gave me MTs phone#), then MT, I finally learned that
any of their governors with a model # with anything earlier than an -F
suffix has to be returned for modification to an -F series level. This
particular governor was a -B series purchased from Vans about 16-18
months ago. Off to MT in DeLand Florida it went and was back in about
10 days- It now performs perfectly.
But- I recently visited a builder near me who had bought the same
governor, but had not yet installed it. I asked to see it and it is a
-C series unit. He had no idea that when he installed it on his plane
and had the surging problem he would have to pull it for modification as
well- quite a hassle on a flying airplane, much easier to do before
initial installation of course.
I sent Vans a polite e-mail asking if they were aware of this
situation, and if so, were they planning to notify those who had bought
these governors. No response in over a week, so I thought I'd give
y'all a little heads-up so you can avoid the same hassle I had. If you
have one of these units, contact Juergen at:
http://www.mt-propellerusa.com/home.htm
Mark Phillips, RV-6A "Mojo"
Columbia, TN
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. |
| From: | "gbrasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
I only have a total of 8 two-tone and nickel buckles left. When they sell, I have
decided not to re-order them. I will continue to sell the brass models. If
you have been thinking about one of these, now may be the last chance. Thanks
for looking.
__________________
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Finishing #90623, O-360
Tucson, Arizona
Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152972#152972
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Tail Dragger Towbar Question |
I'm getting to the point with my RV-8 where I am going to need a towbar to maneuver
the plane in and out of my hangar, and I need some advice on what type of
towbar works well at a reasonable price (ACS has 'em starting at $159 for the
"Taildragger Dragger" and upwards).
Sure would appreciate your input............
Thanks,
Walt Shipley RV8A 300 hrs, RV8 gettin' close to flyin'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MT-Prop Governor |
Mark, I copied your message and posted it on VAF forums. Here is the
link to the thread:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=24754
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote:
> I recently test flighted a new RV with an Aerosport IO-360, Hartzell
> BA prop and MT governor, and the prop would surge approximately
> 150-200 rpms about once per second under takeoff & climb power.
> Pretty darn interesting on a first flight. After calling Hartzell
> (they new about it and suggested calling Vans), Vans (the tech guy
> I talked to seemed a bit evasive, but gave me MTs phone#), then MT, I
> finally learned that any of their governors with a model # with
> anything earlier than an -F suffix has to be returned for modification
> to an -F series level. This particular governor was a -B series
> purchased from Vans about 16-18 months ago. Off to MT in DeLand
> Florida it went and was back in about 10 days- It now performs perfectly.
>
> But- I recently visited a builder near me who had bought the same
> governor, but had not yet installed it. I asked to see it and it is a
> -C series unit. He had no idea that when he installed it on his plane
> and had the surging problem he would have to pull it for modification
> as well- quite a hassle on a flying airplane, much easier to do before
> initial installation of course.
>
> I sent Vans a polite e-mail asking if they were aware of this
> situation, and if so, were they planning to notify those who had
> bought these governors. No response in over a week, so I thought I'd
> give y'all a little heads-up so you can avoid the same hassle I had.
> If you have one of these units, contact Juergen at:
> http://www.mt-propellerusa.com/home.htm
>
> Mark Phillips, RV-6A "Mojo"
> Columbia, TN
> http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> See AOL's top rated recipes
> <http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004> and
> easy ways to stay in shape
> <http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aoltop00030000000003>
> for winter.
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Dragger Towbar Question |
Buy the "Cessna style towbar" from Aircraft Spruce. This is the one that
collapses when you remove a cotterless hitch pin. The towbar is less than
$50 and works very well. All you need to do is pay a little more attention
in bending and trimming the cotter pin that holds the nut to the axle bolt
on the tailwheel.
----- Original Message -----
From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 8:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tail Dragger Towbar Question
>
> I'm getting to the point with my RV-8 where I am going to need a towbar to
> maneuver the plane in and out of my hangar, and I need some advice on what
> type of towbar works well at a reasonable price (ACS has 'em starting at
> $159 for the "Taildragger Dragger" and upwards).
>
> Sure would appreciate your input............
>
> Thanks,
>
> Walt Shipley RV8A 300 hrs, RV8 gettin' close to flyin'
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n(at)optonline.net |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Dragger Towbar Question |
Walt,
I use the tail dragger dragger and it works fine on concrete and asphalt but I
don't think the wheels are large enough for use on grass.
Bob Bales
RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: rveighta
Date: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 9:25 pm
Subject: RV-List: Tail Dragger Towbar Question
>
> I'm getting to the point with my RV-8 where I am going to need a
> towbar to maneuver the plane in and out of my hangar, and I need
> some advice on what type of towbar works well at a reasonable
> price (ACS has 'em starting at $159 for the "Taildragger
> Dragger" and upwards).
>
> Sure would appreciate your input............
>
> Thanks,
>
> Walt Shipley RV8A 300 hrs, RV8 gettin' close to flyin'
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | MT-Prop Governor |
Hey Mark, I had the same problem on my RV8. Give MT a call in Florida, I
think it was Dean I spoke with, they will send you an updated governor modi
fied for the Hartzell blended airfoil. I replace mine and have had no prob
lems since. I believe it is a -F model that you need. Anyway, I got good
service from them. If you can't get a hold of them in Florida, try Eric Gre
indl (Eric.Greindl@MT-Propeller.com) over in Germany, he was also helpfull.
Good luck,
Paul Rice N64PR
RV8 60 hours
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.comDate: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 01:23:49 -0500Subject: RV-Lis
t: MT-Prop Governor To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
I recently test flighted a new RV with an Aerosport IO-360, Hartzell BA pro
p and MT governor, and the prop would surge approximately 150-200 rpms abou
t once per second under takeoff & climb power. Pretty darn interesting on
a first flight. After calling Hartzell (they new about it and suggested ca
lling Vans), Vans (the tech guy I talked to seemed a bit evasive, but gave
me MTs phone#), then MT, I finally learned that any of their governors with
a model # with anything earlier than an -F suffix has to be returned for m
odification to an -F series level. This particular governor was a -B serie
s purchased from Vans about 16-18 months ago. Off to MT in DeLand Florida
it went and was back in about 10 days- It now performs perfectly.
But- I recently visited a builder near me who had bought the same governor,
but had not yet installed it. I asked to see it and it is a -C series uni
t. He had no idea that when he installed it on his plane and had the surgi
ng problem he would have to pull it for modification as well- quite a hassl
e on a flying airplane, much easier to do before initial installation of co
urse.
I sent Vans a polite e-mail asking if they were aware of this situation, an
d if so, were they planning to notify those who had bought these governors.
No response in over a week, so I thought I'd give y'all a little heads-up
so you can avoid the same hassle I had. If you have one of these units, c
ontact Juergen at: http://www.mt-propellerusa.com/home.htm
Mark Phillips, RV-6A "Mojo"
Columbia, TN
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/
See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: MT-Prop Governor |
In a message dated 12/18/2007 1:41:31 PM Central Standard Time,
randy(at)romeolima.com writes:
The way to test it is to do a static full power run-up. The prop should not
turn more than around 2625 rpm, 2640 tops.
>>>
Hi Randy- it would hit just over 2600 whilst dragging the plane across the
run-up area, brakes locked. Max climbout rpm would be in the area you
mentioned.
Mark
p.s.- be careful doing this without a sissy wheel!
8-)
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. |
In a message dated 12/18/2007 3:00:31 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
gbrasch(at)earthlink.net writes:
I only have a total of 8 two-tone and nickel buckles left. When they sell, I
have decided not to re-order them. I will continue to sell the brass models.
If you have been thinking about one of these, now may be the last chance.
===================================
I'll take one of the two tone ones if you have one left. I'll fire you off
a check if you confirm.
Cell 408-375-4450
Gary VanRemortel N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 872hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Dragger Towbar Question |
2nd what Kyle said about the Deluxe Cessna Towbar. Wag Aero also sells
a similar which I have (since Wag is in my back yard.) As Kyle said, a
little tweaking of the cotter pin is in order. Also, I reamed out the
lugs on the towbar ever so slightly and that helps. I also used a
slightly longer bolt for the tailwheel and put a few washers under each
side. This gives the towbar some more "meat" to grab onto, but it
probably cost me .001 knot. I forget the exact bolt size but it was
about 1/2 inch longer than standard.
Jeff Point
RV-6 flying
RV-8 tail done
Milwaukee
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Tail Dragger Towbar Question |
After 10-years of flying my RV, I use the built in towbar (horizontal stab)
to move the airplane were ever it needs to go. It is already part of the
airplane, does not increase empty weight of the airplane, and did not cost
any extra money.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,0638 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 20:48:43 -0500
> From: rveighta(at)earthlink.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tail Dragger Towbar Question
>
>
> I'm getting to the point with my RV-8 where I am going to need a towbar t
o maneuver the plane in and out of my hangar, and I need some advice on wha
t type of towbar works well at a reasonable price (ACS has 'em starting at
$159 for the "Taildragger Dragger" and upwards).
>
> Sure would appreciate your input............
>
> Thanks,
>
> Walt Shipley RV8A 300 hrs, RV8 gettin' close to flyin'
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
i=92m is proud to present Cause Effect, a series about real people making a
difference.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Dragger Towbar Question |
Walt,
I made my own tow bar. It cost me nothing because I had the materials
at hand. It is light; less than 3 ounces. It folds to an overall
length of 4 inches, so I take it with me with no problems. It is a rope
with a 1-inch diameter dowel used for a handle. Slip it around the
vertical shaft of the tailwheel and the plane will follow you wherever
you pull it.
I'm not trying to by cute. IMHO money spent on a towbar for a tail
dragger is wasted.
Ron Schreck
RV-8 "Miss Izzy"
Gold Hill Airpark, NC
***************************************************************
I'm getting to the point with my RV-8 where I am going to need a towbar
to maneuver
the plane in and out of my hangar, and I need some advice on what
type of
towbar works well at a reasonable price (ACS has 'em starting at
$159 for the
"Taildragger Dragger" and upwards).
Sure would appreciate your input............
Thanks,
Walt Shipley RV8A 300 hrs, RV8 gettin' close to flyin'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Dragger Towbar Question |
Ron Schreck wrote:
> Walt, I made my own tow bar. It cost me nothing because I had the
> materials at hand. It is light; less than 3 ounces. It folds to an
> overall length of 4 inches, so I take it with me with no problems.
> It is a rope with a 1-inch diameter dowel used for a handle. Slip it
> around the vertical shaft of the tailwheel and the plane will follow
> you wherever you pull it.
>
> I'm not trying to by cute. IMHO money spent on a towbar for a tail
> dragger is wasted.
The rope works great....unless you want to *push* the plane with the
"towbar". :-)
With my hangar situation it is easiest to manage the plane with the
towbar both coming and going while maneuvering around my hangarmate's
RV-6A.
The Cessna bar has worked great for eight years:
http://thervjournal.com/airport.html#towbar
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Dragger Towbar Question |
Why do you need a towbar? If you have a full swivel tailwheel (all of them do
nowadays, but I just recently had to upgrade mine to the Bell tailwheel fork)
just push on the horizontal and vertical stab and she'll move anywhere you want
to go.
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
----- Original Message ----
From: rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 6:48:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tail Dragger Towbar Question
I'm getting to the point with my RV-8 where I am going to need a towbar
to maneuver the plane in and out of my hangar, and I need some advice
on what type of towbar works well at a reasonable price (ACS has 'em
starting at $159 for the "Taildragger Dragger" and upwards).
Sure would appreciate your input............
Thanks,
Walt Shipley RV8A 300 hrs, RV8 gettin' close to flyin'
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | King A&P Mechanics Exam Courses |
Anyone have the King A&P Mechanics Exam Courses DVDs they are willing to
part with? ...or anything similar?
Please contact me off list...
-Bill VonDane
bill(at)vondane.com
719-266-2388
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Dragger Towbar Question |
I made up the same thing Ron. It works as well as any towbar I have ever
used. Plus I always have it with me in the plane.
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Schreck
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 6:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Tail Dragger Towbar Question
Walt,
I made my own tow bar. It cost me nothing because I had the materials
at hand. It is light; less than 3 ounces. It folds to an overall
length of 4 inches, so I take it with me with no problems. It is a rope
with a 1-inch diameter dowel used for a handle. Slip it around the
vertical shaft of the tailwheel and the plane will follow you wherever
you pull it.
I'm not trying to by cute. IMHO money spent on a towbar for a tail
dragger is wasted.
Ron Schreck
RV-8 "Miss Izzy"
Gold Hill Airpark, NC
***************************************************************
I'm getting to the point with my RV-8 where I am going to need a towbar
to maneuver
the plane in and out of my hangar, and I need some advice on what
type of
towbar works well at a reasonable price (ACS has 'em starting at
$159 for the
"Taildragger Dragger" and upwards).
Sure would appreciate your input............
Thanks,
Walt Shipley RV8A 300 hrs, RV8 gettin' close to flyin'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Tail Dragger Towbar Question |
Agreed the Tail Dragger Dragger might work ok on asphalt but it does not
work well on grass. Here is my experience with it.
I have to push the dragger up under the belly by going quite a bit up
forward else the wheel doesn't fit under the back of my -6. Then pull it
back to get it to the tail wheel and it wont really just slide to get the
tailwheel between the pins so usually I end up picking up the plane slightly
to set it on the dragger. Hard to do with only two hands. Then when I try
to pull it backwards on the grass the wheel tends to want to turn in the
saddle. This is especially true if you need to turn the dragger to position
the plane differently. Once the wheel turns in the saddle, it will pop off
the dragger and be a bad thing. To fix this I use a bungy cord to wrap
around the wheel and the dragger and hook it to the pins. Well you can't
just go under the dragger with the bungy so again you have to lift up on the
handle while stretching the bungy under the bar so you can bring it over the
top of the wheel again to hook it.
Overall I have deemed it next to useless for my needs and would be willing
to sell it to someone with asphalt only needs. Personally I wouldn't buy
one again even if I was on asphalt. An engineer friend here on the airpark
designed a simple and easy to use with positive connection for his Sonex.
After seeing how easy it was it looked to me like it would work for my RV.
He has redesigned a version for me and this works about as perfect as it
could. Now I just walk this back up to the rear of the tail wheel and tip
the handle up and push it in. Once under the wheel bolt, let the handle
down and you have a positive lock on the wheel and it will NOT turn out, pop
off or even require me to get down and screw around with it. I love it and
am absolutely willing to share the design. Problem is you have to build it.
If anyone is interested, just email me and I will scan the detail drawings
in so you can see for yourself.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv6n(at)optonline.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tail Dragger Towbar Question
Walt,
I use the tail dragger dragger and it works fine on concrete and asphalt but
I don't think the wheels are large enough for use on grass.
Bob Bales
RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: rveighta
Date: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 9:25 pm
Subject: RV-List: Tail Dragger Towbar Question
>
> I'm getting to the point with my RV-8 where I am going to need a
> towbar to maneuver the plane in and out of my hangar, and I need
> some advice on what type of towbar works well at a reasonable
> price (ACS has 'em starting at $159 for the "Taildragger
> Dragger" and upwards).
>
> Sure would appreciate your input............
>
> Thanks,
>
> Walt Shipley RV8A 300 hrs, RV8 gettin' close to flyin'
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Tail Dragger Towbar Question |
Here is page one for viewing. If you are interested in building this just
ask me off line and I will send the other two detail drawings.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 9:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tail Dragger Towbar Question
Agreed the Tail Dragger Dragger might work ok on asphalt but it does not
work well on grass. Here is my experience with it.
I have to push the dragger up under the belly by going quite a bit up
forward else the wheel doesn't fit under the back of my -6. Then pull it
back to get it to the tail wheel and it wont really just slide to get the
tailwheel between the pins so usually I end up picking up the plane slightly
to set it on the dragger. Hard to do with only two hands. Then when I try
to pull it backwards on the grass the wheel tends to want to turn in the
saddle. This is especially true if you need to turn the dragger to position
the plane differently. Once the wheel turns in the saddle, it will pop off
the dragger and be a bad thing. To fix this I use a bungy cord to wrap
around the wheel and the dragger and hook it to the pins. Well you can't
just go under the dragger with the bungy so again you have to lift up on the
handle while stretching the bungy under the bar so you can bring it over the
top of the wheel again to hook it.
Overall I have deemed it next to useless for my needs and would be willing
to sell it to someone with asphalt only needs. Personally I wouldn't buy
one again even if I was on asphalt. An engineer friend here on the airpark
designed a simple and easy to use with positive connection for his Sonex.
After seeing how easy it was it looked to me like it would work for my RV.
He has redesigned a version for me and this works about as perfect as it
could. Now I just walk this back up to the rear of the tail wheel and tip
the handle up and push it in. Once under the wheel bolt, let the handle
down and you have a positive lock on the wheel and it will NOT turn out, pop
off or even require me to get down and screw around with it. I love it and
am absolutely willing to share the design. Problem is you have to build it.
If anyone is interested, just email me and I will scan the detail drawings
in so you can see for yourself.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv6n(at)optonline.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tail Dragger Towbar Question
Walt,
I use the tail dragger dragger and it works fine on concrete and asphalt but
I don't think the wheels are large enough for use on grass.
Bob Bales
RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: rveighta
Date: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 9:25 pm
Subject: RV-List: Tail Dragger Towbar Question
>
> I'm getting to the point with my RV-8 where I am going to need a
> towbar to maneuver the plane in and out of my hangar, and I need
> some advice on what type of towbar works well at a reasonable
> price (ACS has 'em starting at $159 for the "Taildragger
> Dragger" and upwards).
>
> Sure would appreciate your input............
>
> Thanks,
>
> Walt Shipley RV8A 300 hrs, RV8 gettin' close to flyin'
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MT-Prop Governor |
Be careful doing a full power static runup with a taildragger?
Can you say nose over?
Please provide accepted methods of securing the plane so that
a nose over does not happen.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: MT-Prop Governor
In a message dated 12/18/2007 1:41:31 PM Central Standard Time,
randy(at)romeolima.com writes:
The way to test it is to do a static full power run-up. The prop
should not turn more than around 2625 rpm, 2640 tops.
>>>
Hi Randy- it would hit just over 2600 whilst dragging the plane across
the run-up area, brakes locked. Max climbout rpm would be in the area
you mentioned.
Mark
p.s.- be careful doing this without a sissy wheel!
8-)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Tail Wind Project For sale |
On the way back from a trip to Louisiana, I landed at Walker County
Airport (KJFX) Alabama to refuel. While refueling a gentleman came over
and introduced himself as Ed Banks. Mentioned that he had an RV-6 and
invited me to see it. Very nice RV with clean paint lines. While in
his hangar I noticed he had a Tailwind with the wings off which he was
restoring.
Ed stated that he had built new wings, had a newly overhauled O-295, new
Plexiglas all around and had complete the process of recovering. The
cloth needs one more coat of aluminum UV blocker before applying paint.
I believe he also had a new instrument panel blank. He had new
lightweight fiberglass cowling components as well.
Citing insufficient time to complete it, Ed would like to find a buyer
for it as a project. I asked him what he wanted for the project and he
quoted me an attractive price. I must admit I was tempted as I have the
plans for a TailWind that I had once planned on building, but I also
lack the time.
So if anyone is interested or knows of a Tailwind list where someone
might be interested, please contact Ed direct.
His e mail is IFLYRV6N264EB(at)AOL.Com his cell phone is 205-522-0539
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
http://www.andersonee.com
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT-Prop Governor |
Of course you'd have your tail tied down, wouldn't think of doing the
test without. In fact the tail should be tied low so that the prop has a
much ground clearance as possible. My bad for not mentioning that. I use
a fire hydrant near my hangar and tie a short rope right at ground
level. This keeps the tailwheel on the ground.
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Lee
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: MT-Prop Governor
Be careful doing a full power static runup with a taildragger?
Can you say nose over?
Please provide accepted methods of securing the plane so that
a nose over does not happen.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: MT-Prop Governor
In a message dated 12/18/2007 1:41:31 PM Central Standard Time,
randy(at)romeolima.com writes:
The way to test it is to do a static full power run-up. The prop
should not turn more than around 2625 rpm, 2640 tops.
>>>
Hi Randy- it would hit just over 2600 whilst dragging the plane
across the run-up area, brakes locked. Max climbout rpm would be in the
area you mentioned.
Mark
p.s.- be careful doing this without a sissy wheel!
8-)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for
winter.
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
Can anyone recommend a good source for an overhauled prop governor? It is
for an IO-470.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George P. Tyler" <gptyler(at)metrocast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Dragger Towbar Question |
The "Taildragger", works fine as long as you don't have to pull the plane up
any significant incline. I have used the least expensive version on my -6
for over 5 years.
----- Original Message -----
From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 8:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Tail Dragger Towbar Question
>
> I'm getting to the point with my RV-8 where I am going to need a towbar to
maneuver the plane in and out of my hangar, and I need some advice on what
type of towbar works well at a reasonable price (ACS has 'em starting at
$159 for the "Taildragger Dragger" and upwards).
>
> Sure would appreciate your input............
>
> Thanks,
>
> Walt Shipley RV8A 300 hrs, RV8 gettin' close to flyin'
>
>
> --
12/18/2007 9:40 PM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <sgesele(at)yahoo.com> |
> From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320
>
> Perhaps the other reason would be *final cost*...
> I'd get a bid from
> each of the many engine builders and shop around for
> what you really
> want. I don't know what the sales tax situation is
> like in L.I.,NY, but
> it may even cost more in sales tax alone then what
> it would cost for
> getting a Bartized Lycosaurus shipped from Canada.
> Aerosport Power has
> certainly earned themselves a stellar reputation
> (not to put down
> Mattituck, PenYan, LyCon and the various many other
> custom shops). Your
> call, but I would simply visit Mattituck to see what
> they would have in
> store for you, and then compare apples to apples...
> Good Luck!
I vote for Mattituck. I also live on Long Island and
have a flying RV-6A out of Bayport. There is a
Mattituck TMX-IO-540 sitting in my garage for a
project that I am helping to build. The support from
Mattituck has been first rate. They offer the free
engine builders class and are right in your backyard.
This is a huge benefit if you need assistance or
parts. You are also able to witness the test running
of YOUR engine if you want.
There will be no sales tax. New York State exempts
airplane parts from sales tax. There was no sales tax
on that 540 mentioned above.
I'm sure Aerosport produces a fine engine, but they
can't offer you the local support that Mattituck can
provide.
If you still need more inforation, then call Mahlon
from Mattituck and arrange to talk to them personally.
They have been known to give builders a tour of their
facility upon request.
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Tail Wind Project For sale |
Ed Anderson wrote:
>
>
> On the way back from a trip to Louisiana, I landed at Walker County
> Airport (KJFX) Alabama to refuel. While refueling a gentleman came
> over and introduced himself as Ed Banks. Mentioned that he had an
> RV-6 and invited me to see it. Very nice RV with clean paint lines.
> While in his hangar I noticed he had a Tailwind with the wings off
> which he was restoring.
>
> Ed stated that he had built new wings, had a newly overhauled O-295,
> new Plexiglas all around and had complete the process of recovering.
> The cloth needs one more coat of aluminum UV blocker before applying
> paint. I believe he also had a new instrument panel blank. He had
> new lightweight fiberglass cowling components as well.
>
> Citing insufficient time to complete it, Ed would like to find a
> buyer for it as a project. I asked him what he wanted for the
> project and he quoted me an attractive price. I must admit I was
> tempted as I have the plans for a TailWind that I had once planned on
> building, but I also lack the time.
>
>
> So if anyone is interested or knows of a Tailwind list where someone
> might be interested, please contact Ed direct.
>
> His e mail is IFLYRV6N264EB(at)AOL.Com his cell phone is 205-522-0539
I can personally vouch for Ed Banks. He is part of our Tennessee Valley
RV group, an honest fellow, and whatever he tells you about the Tailwind
is the way it is.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net> |
| Subject: | good warning label. |
Your ironic humor for today:
I'm adding the matco parking brake and needed to order some shorter brake
lines. Found some 20" steel braided straight an4 lines from an online
auto/performance website.
They came with the label: "Warning: Competition/Off Road Use Only. Not
approved for highway use."
Hmmm. Well. I do hope to go "off road", so I'm thinking I should be good.
******************************************
Don Hall
N517DG (registered)
rv7 finishing
******************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Tail Wind Project For sale |
Konrad L. Werner wrote:
> Ed, Is this newly overhauled O-295 a mixed breed between a O-235 and
> a O-290? More out of curiosity then anything else, but would you
> mind sharing with us this attractive price you were quoted? Thanks...
Wouldn't it be much better to contact Ed Banks. the Tailwind owner,
directly for this information?
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Tail Wind Project For sale |
Konrad L. Werner wrote:
> Sam, Wouldn't the absence of all information limit this gentlemen's
> projects exposure, thereby greatly affecting its marketability, as
> well as hindering a potential sale ?? I'd rather put all the
> information out there and then get call's only from interested
> parties ( even they do take a great deal of weeding out qualified
> buyers)
Konrad, I guess if the plane for sale was mine, I would want interested
parties to get detailed, first-hand, totally accurate info straight from
me instead of from someone whom I happened to meet on an airport ramp....
Ed Anderson provided Mr. Banks' contact info, I suspect in order to
encourage interested folks to contact the seller directly. But if Ed
Anderson wishes to answer your inquiry, I'm sure he will.
I'm done. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Tail Wind Project For sale |
> Konrad, I guess if the plane for sale was mine, I would want interested
> parties to get detailed, first-hand, totally accurate info straight from
> me instead of from someone whom I happened to meet on an airport ramp....
>
> Ed Anderson provided Mr. Banks' contact info, I suspect in order to
> encourage interested folks to contact the seller directly. But if Ed
> Anderson wishes to answer your inquiry, I'm sure he will.
>
> I'm done. :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan
Actually, Ed Banks did not ask me to spread the word. When I found out he
was interested in selling his project, I volunteered to distribute the
news. Not only to the RV list (which might know of someone interested),
but also to the TailWind list. I thought I would be simply helping someone
get rid of a project they did not have time for and to help someone looking
for a reasonable way to get airborne.
I get no $$ out of it. Don't know about Ed Banks, but some folks just
don't feel comfortable trying to use a computer.
I'm not the broker {:>), just the messenger - please don't shoot {:>)
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MT-Prop Governor |
I sent Mark a private email and I think he thought it was on the list.
I am sure he wanted everyone to hear his reply :-)
In a message dated 12/18/2007 8:09:13 PM Central Standard Time,
bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net writes:
Mark, I copied your message and posted it on VAF forums. Here is the
link to the thread:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=24754
Hi Bobby- appreciate you letting the VAF folks in on it. In their
thread it was mentioned that cold oil or low ambient temps might cause
this. I wrestled with this situation for almost 20 hours hoping it was
just break-in on new equipment- ambient temps were anywhere from 80-45
def.F. No amount of cycling helped and neither did taking off again
immediately after landing, even TAGs.
MT replaced several main components in the unit to fix the problem,
admitting the earlier units hadn't quite been as good as they were
expecting. But let me re-iterate here that they willingly updated the
unit with excellent turn-around time, and the returned unit works very
well after about 4 hours additional flight time. My main beef was not
knowing about this "known" condition prior to initial installation and
flight testing...
Mark
------------------------------------------------------------------------
See AOL's top rated recipes
<http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004> and
easy ways to stay in shape
<http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aoltop00030000000003>
for winter.
--
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Vs" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com> |
| Subject: | MT-Prop Governor |
Dumb question. This thread listed the prop as a BA. Is this a pure Govenor
problem that should show up regardless of the prop used?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 5:27 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: MT-Prop Governor
I sent Mark a private email and I think he thought it was on the list.
I am sure he wanted everyone to hear his reply :-)
In a message dated 12/18/2007 8:09:13 PM Central Standard Time,
bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net writes:
Mark, I copied your message and posted it on VAF forums. Here is the
link to the thread:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=24754
Hi Bobby- appreciate you letting the VAF folks in on it. In their thread
it was mentioned that cold oil or low ambient temps might cause this. I
wrestled with this situation for almost 20 hours hoping it was just break-in
on new equipment- ambient temps were anywhere from 80-45 def.F. No amount
of cycling helped and neither did taking off again immediately after
landing, even TAGs.
MT replaced several main components in the unit to fix the problem,
admitting the earlier units hadn't quite been as good as they were
expecting. But let me re-iterate here that they willingly updated the unit
with excellent turn-around time, and the returned unit works very well after
about 4 hours additional flight time. My main beef was not knowing about
this "known" condition prior to initial installation and flight testing...
Mark
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter.
--
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Vs" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com> |
| Subject: | MT-Prop Governor |
Make that regardless of the CS prop used.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Vs
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 8:16 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: MT-Prop Governor
Dumb question. This thread listed the prop as a BA. Is this a pure
Govenor problem that should show up regardless of the prop used?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 5:27 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: MT-Prop Governor
I sent Mark a private email and I think he thought it was on the list.
I am sure he wanted everyone to hear his reply :-)
In a message dated 12/18/2007 8:09:13 PM Central Standard Time,
bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net writes:
Mark, I copied your message and posted it on VAF forums. Here is the
link to the thread:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=24754
Hi Bobby- appreciate you letting the VAF folks in on it. In their
thread it was mentioned that cold oil or low ambient temps might cause this.
I wrestled with this situation for almost 20 hours hoping it was just
break-in on new equipment- ambient temps were anywhere from 80-45 def.F. No
amount of cycling helped and neither did taking off again immediately after
landing, even TAGs.
MT replaced several main components in the unit to fix the problem,
admitting the earlier units hadn't quite been as good as they were
expecting. But let me re-iterate here that they willingly updated the unit
with excellent turn-around time, and the returned unit works very well after
about 4 hours additional flight time. My main beef was not knowing about
this "known" condition prior to initial installation and flight testing...
Mark
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter.
--
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Naviga
tor?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: MT-Prop Governor |
In a message dated 12/19/2007 10:21:08 PM Central Standard Time,
dsvs(at)ca.rr.com writes:
Dumb question. This thread listed the prop as a BA. Is this a pure Govenor
problem that should show up regardless of the prop used?
>>>
I don't know if it is a result of this governor in combination with any
specific prop- MT may be best equipped to answer that...
_http://www.mt-propellerusa.com/contact.htm_
(http://www.mt-propellerusa.com/contact.htm)
Mark
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | cutting off the sticks |
Dont do it! Anyone who is on here actually building. if you are
considering shortnig your stick, think twice. I recently took an hr of
taildrager time in a 6 with stick cut where top is even with top of your
hand when laying on your thigh, about 5 or maybe 6 in shortened. on
landing I was having a very hard time holding the nose off, so next time
I flew my 6a I tried holding the stick down low, same posit as the
taildrager stick, and found same thing, very hard to hold nose off.(fist
in crotch) I usuallly fly around with hand on thigh, holding stick low,
but always take off and land, as well as tight manuvers with hand up
high. Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting off the sticks |
Interesting. While waiting to cut the stick may make sense,
I fly, take-off and land with my hand on my thigh and my fingers
low on the stick. I have to use another hand to activate the
PTT switch on top of the stick.
If I remember, I will provide actual numbers for reference. Note that
I have not done aerobatics in my plane so that may make a difference.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Heathco
To: rv-list
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 7:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: cutting off the sticks
Dont do it! Anyone who is on here actually building. if you are
considering shortnig your stick, think twice. I recently took an hr of
taildrager time in a 6 with stick cut where top is even with top of your
hand when laying on your thigh, about 5 or maybe 6 in shortened. on
landing I was having a very hard time holding the nose off, so next time
I flew my 6a I tried holding the stick down low, same posit as the
taildrager stick, and found same thing, very hard to hold nose off.(fist
in crotch) I usuallly fly around with hand on thigh, holding stick low,
but always take off and land, as well as tight manuvers with hand up
high. Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Brooks <brooksrv6(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: King A&P Mechanics Exam Courses |
Bill, I rented them from justplanevideos.com. They have lots of aviation re
lated videos for rent.
Chris
_________________________________________________________________
Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary!
http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_wlhmtextlink1_dec
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. |
| From: | "gbrasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
All the two tone models are gone, but I have three very nice Nickel models left.
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Finishing #90623, O-360
Tucson, Arizona
Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153271#153271
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <jmsears(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting off the sticks |
When I built Scooter, I installed a 2 inch sub panel. With the sticks
at full length, the stick would get into the panel. I shortened mine
two inches and have seen no problems with that. I also fly my RV with
my hands well below the top of the stick; but, I move my hand to the top
of the stick for take off and landing work.
Cutting the sticks off as much as six inches may be overkill. A longer
stick gives leverage and allows for smaller inputs at crucial times.
I'd do mine with two inches cut off, again. I'd probably not go beyond
that.
Jim Sears in KY
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Heathco
To: rv-list
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 9:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: cutting off the sticks
Dont do it! Anyone who is on here actually building. if you are
considering shortnig your stick, think twice. I recently took an hr of
taildrager time in a 6 with stick cut where top is even with top of your
hand when laying on your thigh, about 5 or maybe 6 in shortened. on
landing I was having a very hard time holding the nose off, so next time
I flew my 6a I tried holding the stick down low, same posit as the
taildrager stick, and found same thing, very hard to hold nose off.(fist
in crotch) I usuallly fly around with hand on thigh, holding stick low,
but always take off and land, as well as tight manuvers with hand up
high. Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting off the sticks |
A few years back, Van himself responded to the "Shorten" the stick
question. He was not for it. As best I recall, he stated that
shortening the stick could cause stick loads doing aerobatics to become
uncomfortably high.
While I will cruise with my arm on my knee and fingers gripping the
stick about 4 -6 inches below the top, I found that in landing with my
hand in that position that stick loads did become higher and
responsiveness a bit twitchy. Perhaps continued practice would have
improved my performance.
IF you are considering shorting the stick, I would suggest try flying
an RV through a number of typical maneuvers with your hand at the
"shorten" position and then decide.
My 0.02
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Heathco
To: rv-list
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 9:15 AM
Subject: RV-List: cutting off the sticks
Dont do it! Anyone who is on here actually building. if you are
considering shortnig your stick, think twice. I recently took an hr of
taildrager time in a 6 with stick cut where top is even with top of your
hand when laying on your thigh, about 5 or maybe 6 in shortened. on
landing I was having a very hard time holding the nose off, so next time
I flew my 6a I tried holding the stick down low, same posit as the
taildrager stick, and found same thing, very hard to hold nose off.(fist
in crotch) I usuallly fly around with hand on thigh, holding stick low,
but always take off and land, as well as tight manuvers with hand up
high. Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Ross" <dcr(at)fdltownhomes.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting off sticks |
Guys: I cut 3" off my -9A stick with no problems noted. Note: The -9s are
not acrobatic. Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. |
Glenn, Make that 2 left! Sure wish I hadn't missed out on the two tone! If run
across one in the future I'll take it also.
Tom in Ohio RV6-A
----- Original Message -----
From: "gbrasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 10:53:49 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RV-List: Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles..
All the two tone models are gone, but I have three very nice Nickel models left.
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Finishing #90623, O-360
Tucson, Arizona
Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153271#153271
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting off the sticks |
I cut off 2 or 3 inches an am glad I did. It could even stand to loose
another inch or so. I made the cut by sitting in the aircraft (with
simulated cushons etc) and played with it to see what I liked. Full length
stick definately got too close to the panel.
Stick forces are not even close to being a problem even when landing or
doing aerobatics.
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
On Dec 20, 2007 8:15 AM, Jim Sears wrote:
> When I built Scooter, I installed a 2 inch sub panel. With the sticks at
> full length, the stick would get into the panel. I shortened mine two
> inches and have seen no problems with that. I also fly my RV with my hands
> well below the top of the stick; but, I move my hand to the top of the stick
> for take off and landing work.
>
> Cutting the sticks off as much as six inches may be overkill. A longer
> stick gives leverage and allows for smaller inputs at crucial times. I'd do
> mine with two inches cut off, again. I'd probably not go beyond that.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Charles Heathco
> *To:* rv-list
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 20, 2007 9:15 AM
> *Subject:* RV-List: cutting off the sticks
>
> Dont do it! Anyone who is on here actually building. if you are
> considering shortnig your stick, think twice. I recently took an hr of
> taildrager time in a 6 with stick cut where top is even with top of your
> hand when laying on your thigh, about 5 or maybe 6 in shortened. on landing
> I was having a very hard time holding the nose off, so next time I flew my
> 6a I tried holding the stick down low, same posit as the taildrager stick,
> and found same thing, very hard to hold nose off.(fist in crotch) I usuallly
> fly around with hand on thigh, holding stick low, but always take off and
> land, as well as tight manuvers with hand up high. Charlie Heathco
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: cutting off the sticks |
In a message dated 12/20/2007 6:06:44 PM Central Standard Time,
wdleonard(at)gmail.com writes:
Full length stick definately got too close to the panel.
>>>
Another consideration is interference with panel controls- my DAR would not
pink me until I cut my sticks another 1/2" since the pilot stick would touch
the throttle when at idle and stick hard right, full fwd., and the right stick
could just graze the mixture control at ICO with stick fully left/fwd. (My
throttle and mixture are in a small subpanel under the standard main panel) Even
if sticks were an inch shorter, they'd probably still be fine in my plane.
No hard aero yet, but rolls are easy with very comfortable stick loading...
See photo at: _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/?q=project_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/?q=project)
and _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=7435_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=7435)
which was taken before shortening.
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: good warning label |
In a message dated 12/20/2007 8:55:53 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net writes:
As mentioned - you must use 45 degree flaring tools -not automotive 37
degree. If it is 'AN' fitting, it is 45 degree.
===========================================================
Actually he's got it exactly backwards, so please don't believe this
information.
Standard brass fittings at the hardware store and most other similar
commercial fittings are 45 degree and aircraft (AN) is 37 degrees. Do not mix
up
the applications or the tooling. Many of the new racing applications have
adopted the aircraft standard.
-GV
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cutting off the sticks |
Hummm, I must have been supplied with a shorter stick to begin with.
I have a stick grip handle which adds approx 2" to the stick length and
have never had a problem with my hand hitting the panel even with the
stick full forward. Its close but not touching.
This in an RV-6A - I wonder if there is a difference in spacing between
stick location and panel in different models??
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 10:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: cutting off the sticks
In a message dated 12/20/2007 6:06:44 PM Central Standard Time,
wdleonard(at)gmail.com writes:
Full length stick definately got too close to the panel.
>>>
Another consideration is interference with panel controls- my DAR
would not pink me until I cut my sticks another 1/2" since the pilot
stick would touch the throttle when at idle and stick hard right, full
fwd., and the right stick could just graze the mixture control at ICO
with stick fully left/fwd. (My throttle and mixture are in a small
subpanel under the standard main panel) Even if sticks were an inch
shorter, they'd probably still be fine in my plane. No hard aero yet,
but rolls are easy with very comfortable stick loading...
See photo at: http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/?q=project
and
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=743
5 which was taken before shortening.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Hydraulic lines, was good warning label |
Hi All-
RE: > Go to the speedshop and tell them it's for an airplane and
look
> stupid and ask for advice...they'll push you out the door and lock it
> and tell you to never come back...
I live close to gasoline alley, and have been to several speed shops there.
Earl's has some familiarity with homebuilts, and doesn't flinch in the
slightest. As they put it, nothing would give them more grief than if
their products failed during the Indy 500. Also, unlike Aeroquip, Earl's
hoses don't require any special tools to assemble. All the components are
reusable, as well. With the larger fittings (I have up to 3/4) padded or
aluminum tools would be nice, but I just used a couple layers of T shirt
material to pad my steel tools. The catalog has embedded tutorials on how
to make up assemblies from their parts. The shop also has a lot of stuff
not in the catalog, including a pretty complete line of AN hardware, SCAT,
some electrical goodies, a full line of the various grit scotch brite pads,
a big bowl of Jolly Ranchers, lots of useful knowledge and insights, and a
sense of humor. All in all, a very good place to do business.
http://www.earlsindy.com 317-241-0318
The next shop down the street, North American Race Parts, suggested I could
trailer my plane to their shop and stand there and watch as they custom
made all my oil lines to fit, and for only the cost of the parts. That
would have saved me from buying and using all the different mandrels for my
different hose sizes, but that would have meant using Aeroquip. For a
couple of reasons, I've decided not to use them.
While a lot of places absolutely will freak at the mention of aircraft
usage for their goods, Earl's isn't one of them. I can't say enough good
about the guys at Earl's Indy.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jhstarn(at)verizon.net |
| Subject: | good warning label |
Sorry to disagree BUT "AN" fittings are 37 degree NOT 45. Go to the www.jegs.com sited below and read what it says about the 37 degree flairing tool Jegs# 80084. 45 degree flare is used in plumbing, heating & A/C lines. Hot rod & racing use 37 degree because of aviation fitting availabilty.
KABONG
(C-20, C-36 Calif Contractor for A/C & Plumbing and HRII builder and EAA Tech Advisor
and one time Corvette racer)
>From: mike humphrey <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net>
>Date: 2007/12/20 Thu PM 10:51:45 CST
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: good warning label
>Jim,To make your own brake hoses is really no big deal. ANY fitting that says 'AN' is an acceptable fitting. 'AN' is a standardized mil-spec terminology= ArmyNavy. Any auto shop can make you brake lines. As mentioned - you must use 45 degree flaring tools -not automotive 37 degree. If it is 'AN' fitting, it is 45 degree. Go to www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: good warning label |
Mea Coupa - I got it backwards. You are correct. Thanks for the correction.
Mike H
----- Original Message -----
From: <jhstarn(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 10:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: good warning label
>
> Sorry to disagree BUT "AN" fittings are 37 degree NOT 45. Go to the
> www.jegs.com sited below and read what it says about the 37 degree
> flairing tool Jegs# 80084. 45 degree flare is used in plumbing, heating &
> A/C lines. Hot rod & racing use 37 degree because of aviation fitting
> availabilty.
> KABONG
> (C-20, C-36 Calif Contractor for A/C & Plumbing and HRII builder and EAA
> Tech Advisor and one time Corvette racer)
>
>
>>From: mike humphrey <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net>
>>Date: 2007/12/20 Thu PM 10:51:45 CST
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: good warning label
>
>>Jim,To make your own brake hoses is really no big deal. ANY fitting
>>that says 'AN' is an acceptable fitting. 'AN' is a standardized
>>mil-spec terminology= ArmyNavy. Any auto shop can make you brake
>>lines. As mentioned - you must use 45 degree flaring tools -not
>>automotive 37 degree. If it is 'AN' fitting, it is 45
>>degree. Go to www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Hydraulic lines, was good warning label |
glen matejcek wrote:
> Hi All-
>
> RE: > Go to the speedshop and tell them it's for an airplane and
> look
>
>> stupid and ask for advice...they'll push you out the door and lock it
>> and tell you to never come back...
>>
[snip]
> While a lot of places absolutely will freak at the mention of aircraft
> usage for their goods, Earl's isn't one of them. I can't say enough good
> about the guys at Earl's Indy.
>
When asked the question I always tell them it is for a three wheeled off
road vehicle. No lies, only the truth.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A, 180 HP three wheeled off road vehicle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Hydraulic lines, was good warning label |
We needed to replace the electrical connection point on the alternator (stripped
threads) for HRII N561FS. Took it to a local repair shop and when ask "What's
it from ?" we answered very truthfully, "It's from a homebuilt RV, We would
have brought it but it's not drivable on the road yet". 8*) KABONG
>From: Steven Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>
>Date: 2007/12/21 Fri AM 10:10:32 CST
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Hydraulic lines, was good warning label
>
>glen matejcek wrote:
>> Hi All-
>>
>> RE: > Go to the speedshop and tell them it's for an airplane and
>> look
>>
>>> stupid and ask for advice...they'll push you out the door and lock it
>>> and tell you to never come back...
>>>
>[snip]
>> While a lot of places absolutely will freak at the mention of aircraft
>> usage for their goods, Earl's isn't one of them. I can't say enough good
>> about the guys at Earl's Indy.
>>
>When asked the question I always tell them it is for a three wheeled off
>road vehicle. No lies, only the truth.
>
>Steve Eberhart
>RV-7A, 180 HP three wheeled off road vehicle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Hydraulic lines, was good warning label |
A local auto electric shop rebuilt the starter for the Cherokee that I
flew and they charged the same as if it had come off of a tractor. The
FBO takes things in there regularly.
jhstarn(at)verizon.net wrote:
>
> We needed to replace the electrical connection point on the alternator (stripped
threads) for HRII N561FS. Took it to a local repair shop and when ask "What's
it from ?" we answered very truthfully, "It's from a homebuilt RV, We would
have brought it but it's not drivable on the road yet". 8*) KABONG
>
>
>
>>From: Steven Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>
>>Date: 2007/12/21 Fri AM 10:10:32 CST
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Hydraulic lines, was good warning label
>
>
>>
>>glen matejcek wrote:
>>
>>>Hi All-
>>>
>>>RE: > Go to the speedshop and tell them it's for an airplane and
>>>look
>>>
>>>
>>>>stupid and ask for advice...they'll push you out the door and lock it
>>>>and tell you to never come back...
>>>>
>>
>>[snip]
>>
>>>While a lot of places absolutely will freak at the mention of aircraft
>>>usage for their goods, Earl's isn't one of them. I can't say enough good
>>>about the guys at Earl's Indy.
>>>
>>
>>When asked the question I always tell them it is for a three wheeled off
>>road vehicle. No lies, only the truth.
>>
>>Steve Eberhart
>>RV-7A, 180 HP three wheeled off road vehicle
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com> |
| Subject: | good warning label |
Also, AN is now Air Force-Navy standards, some bureaucrat changed it a
while back. I'm from the government and I'm here to help. EEEE gads. CJ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike humphrey
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: good warning label
Mea Coupa - I got it backwards. You are correct. Thanks for the correction.
Mike H
----- Original Message -----
From: <jhstarn(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 10:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: good warning label
>
> Sorry to disagree BUT "AN" fittings are 37 degree NOT 45. Go to the
> www.jegs.com sited below and read what it says about the 37 degree
> flairing tool Jegs# 80084. 45 degree flare is used in plumbing, heating &
> A/C lines. Hot rod & racing use 37 degree because of aviation fitting
> availabilty.
> KABONG
> (C-20, C-36 Calif Contractor for A/C & Plumbing and HRII builder and EAA
> Tech Advisor and one time Corvette racer)
>
>
>>From: mike humphrey <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net>
>>Date: 2007/12/20 Thu PM 10:51:45 CST
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: good warning label
>
>>Jim,To make your own brake hoses is really no big deal. ANY fitting
>>that says 'AN' is an acceptable fitting. 'AN' is a standardized
>>mil-spec terminology= ArmyNavy. Any auto shop can make you brake
>>lines. As mentioned - you must use 45 degree flaring tools -not
>>automotive 37 degree. If it is 'AN' fitting, it is 45
>>degree. Go to www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Painting |
Had my RV-6A painted by Legends in May. I would not/do not recommend them.
If anyone would like more details on my experience please contact me direct.
Basically, they do not understand how homebuilt airplanes are
viewed/examined up close by other builders. Also, depends on who is handling
the spray gun this week.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 6:25 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Aircraft Painting; Central Florida
>
> Legend Air in Aiken SC does an all white RV for $4000 and a two color for
> about $5000, 3 colors for about $5500. Your have to have it ready to go
> and
> pulled apart. Otherwise he charges for AP time or body work time. If he
> balances control surfaces it may be a few hundred more. He does Jets and
> turbos, and uses the new SW Jet Flow paints. He etches, Alodine and sands
> between coats and stands behind their work. Just an FYI. CJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire |
In a message dated 12/21/2007 6:22:21 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
replace the older brake fluid with the newer MIL-PRF-83282 D brake fluid
which has a much higher flash point (around 440F). I then replace the brake
rotors with discs twice the thickness to hold down the temps.
Thanks for those two tips. I wasn't aware of either.
===================================================
Search on the MIL-PRF in the archives. I tried to hip everyone to this a
couple of years back when I did the research and changed mine.
I believe that several manufacturers have recommended this change for their
fleets but suspect that the old MIL-H-5606 is just too deeply ingrained in the
FBOs for anyone to stock to the better fluid.
BTW, can the thicker Cleveland disc really fit under the old (original non
pressure recovery) wheel pants?
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 872hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cutting off the sticks |
In a message dated 12/21/2007 7:42:55 AM Central Standard Time,
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com writes:
This in an RV-6A - I wonder if there is a difference in spacing between stick
location and panel in different models??
>>>
I'd reckon there is much more difference in which grip you stick on the
stick- each commercially available grip will require some modification to the
actual "stick" tube supplied with the kit. Infinity grips (for example) are totally
different than the CH grips I used. Bottom line is that the final
configuration is acceptable to pilot and DAR...
Mark
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE:cutting off the sticks |
Hi Ed-
>This in an RV-6A - I wonder if there is a difference in spacing between
>stick location and panel in different models??
In my -8, a RAC/MAC stick grip (the old style) would have hit the fwd panel
had I not modified it. IIRC, I cut about 2" off of it, which I may live to
regret. I kind of like the idea of putting an 'S' curve into the stick, a
la decathlon.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.ne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire |
Hi Again, Ed!
>Just had time to
>get the engine shut down and used the starter to get the prop horizontal
>before going into a ditch off the side of the runway.
Wow- quick thinking. Sometimes the force is with you. I was going to go
the Teflon route for the brake line loop to the caliper, but it's been
suggested that there is a threat of brake temps melting the Teflon in the
braided line. Does anyone have any hard evidence, numbers, or anecdotal
info to this effect?
>Did I mention, its smart to carry a fire extinguisher in your cockpit?
Thanks for reminding me to get that on the do list.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire |
Yes, I had to buy the new stuff by the gallon - enough to last me for a
decade {:>). Have not found any at local FBOs who carry it. Apparently
the need for the new higher flash point was driven my Military need for
less flammable brake fluid - so I read.
Yes, the thicker rotors will fit under the old (pre-pressure recovery)
wheelpants. However, I had to redo my wheelpant brackets and add 1/8"
to the three aluminum tube bracket spacers.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 10:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire
In a message dated 12/21/2007 6:22:21 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
replace the older brake fluid with the newer MIL-PRF-83282 D brake
fluid which has a much higher flash point (around 440F). I then replace
the brake rotors with discs twice the thickness to hold down the temps.
Thanks for those two tips. I wasn't aware of either.
=
Search on the MIL-PRF in the archives. I tried to hip everyone to
this a couple of years back when I did the research and changed mine.
I believe that several manufacturers have recommended this change for
their fleets but suspect that the old MIL-H-5606 is just too deeply
ingrained in the FBOs for anyone to stock to the better fluid.
BTW, can the thicker Cleveland disc really fit under the old (original
non pressure recovery) wheel pants?
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 872hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire |
Hi Glen,
Well, I didn't think to try ground looping with the one good brake - it may
not have worked out too well with a nose wheel aircraft - I can just picture
it pitching over in a sharp turn. Perhaps the fact, I had just installed
a new $1500 propeller might have had some influence on the decision process
{:>). .
The brake lines with Teflon lining are standard use brake lines. I have
found that having stainless steel braid around any hose liner material seems
to do a good job of holding the temps down. Not to say it couldn't happen.
My view is the stainless steel Teflon lines are less likely to give you an
immediate and catastrophic failure - I believe that leaks would develop and
you would get some indication (mushy peddle?) of a problem before the leak
got large enough to preclude braking. But, that is just speculation on my
part.
Yes, get that fire extinguisher - that way you will never need it.
Ed
. ----- Original Message -----
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 7:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: Brake lines and Hydrauli fire
>
> Hi Again, Ed!
>
>>Just had time to
>>get the engine shut down and used the starter to get the prop horizontal
>>before going into a ditch off the side of the runway.
>
> Wow- quick thinking. Sometimes the force is with you. I was going to go
> the Teflon route for the brake line loop to the caliper, but it's been
> suggested that there is a threat of brake temps melting the Teflon in the
> braided line. Does anyone have any hard evidence, numbers, or anecdotal
> info to this effect?
>
>>Did I mention, its smart to carry a fire extinguisher in your cockpit?
>
> Thanks for reminding me to get that on the do list.
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: [SERV] Fwd: RV8A Brake Fire |
On the topic of brake line failure and fires, I am forwarding account of
an incident that happened on a RV-8A back in 2004. Just to show it
happens on the newer models as well as my old RV-6A.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 7:55 AM
Subject: [SERV] Fwd: RV8A Brake Fire
In a message dated 1/31/2004 9:48:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rgray67968(at)aol.com writes:
Gang,
Had a brake fire on an RV-8A last weekend. Tidy combination of
operator error and design issues, much of which is specific to the 8A
and/or castering nosewheel, steer-with-the-brakes airplanes in
general.
However, research did turn up a few items perhaps everyone should
know.
The fire started after an overheated caliper leaked fluid on a
hot
disk. The fluid flashed and lit the resin in the fiberglass wheel
pant,
as well as the tire sidewall. The brake worked fine, with only
slightly
higher pedal pressure required even when on fire.
I've posted a photo to the vault (yep, a bystander had a digital
camera). In the photo, I'm holding pedal pressure while shutting
down
for the fire crew. Note the fire on the ground under the pant,
believed
to be fluid and dripping resin. I don't recall any additional pedal
travel.
When something like this happens I get curious. Why did the
seal
leak at some temperature well below a failure temperature for the
rest
of the brake? And why did the fluid catch fire?
Fast forward: It turns out the Cleveland piston seal for the
little 30-9 caliper is an ordinary MS28775-218 nitrile o-ring.
Nitrile's temperature rating is - 65F to +275 F. We found the seal
to
be brittle and flaking when we dismantled the caliper. A caliper
seal
with a 275 F temp limit is below automotive standards, but that's
another story.
As for fluid, Cleveland's tech manual specifies either Mil-H-
5606
or Mil-H-83282 as acceptable. Both are listed in AC-43 and the A&P
texts. Turns out that Mil-H-83282 was created because the military
was
tired of setting it's airplanes on fire. Mil-H-5606 is the standard
red
hydraulic fluid sold by Spruce, Wicks, Chief, etc. It is a petroleum
base, and turns out to have a very low flash point. The Mil-H-83282
is
also red, and compatible with 5606 fluid as well as seals created for
5606. However, it is a synthetic, with much higher flash and burn
points, and is self-extinguishing when removed from the ignition
source.
You can download complete specs for Aeroshell Fluid 41 (Mil-H-
5606)
and Aeroshell Fluid 31 (Mil-H-83282) at:
http://193.113.209.166/aeroshell/aeroshellhydraulicfluids.pdf
Note the flash points of the two fluids. Aeroshell 41 is 104 C,
which is only 219 F. Aeroshell 31 is 237 C, or 458 F.
A flash point of 219 F means that when a Cleveland caliper seal
fails at something above 275, the fluid is already hot enough to
light
when it hits a hot disk and vaporizes inside the pant. Makes for an
interesting combination.
Live and learn. I always assumed standard "mil-spec red brake
fluid" was something special, and I doubt I was alone in this
assumption. It's not. It's just another one of those "always done
it
that way" things prevalent with light airplanes. Note that the Shell
literature declines to even refer to it as brake fluid.
Spruce, etc, doesn't sell Mil-H-83282 fluid, but they should.
I've
already ordered a gallon of Fluid 31 from the local Shell
distributor.
Since the old and new fluids are compatible, switching is as easy as
draining the old, flush with new, refill, and bleed.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. |
| From: | "gbrasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks! Buckles Sold! Group Buy?
Thanks to those who bought up my two tone gold and nickel, and nickel buckles.
I was surprised at the response, must be some psychological factor about a closeout!
I have gotten more requests for them, so if people are still interested,
e mail me your contact info and I will save the requests and re-contact you
if I get enough interest for a group buy of 6 or so. My brass models are still
for sale on my website. Happy Holidays! Glenn
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Finishing #90623, O-360
Tucson, Arizona
Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153677#153677
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | prop bolt length |
I have a Catto 3 blade prop with the recommended Saber prop extension
(same one van's sells). It is delivered with 6" bolts. I need a 1/4"
spacer to get the distance between the 2 spinner bulkheads to match the
spinner and of course there's the 3/8" crush plate, the washers and the
4 5/16" thick prop hub.
When I add up the thickness of *everything* in the stack-up and add to
that the 0.435" by which the threaded portion of the prop extension is
recessed into the prop extension, I compute that only the last 1/2" of
threads on the 6" prop bolts are going to engage the threads in the prop
extension. Seems kind of skinny to me.
On the other hand, I think this is a typical installation. Is this
normal? Is it adequate?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Brake lines and Hydraulic fire |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Ed,
Do you want to sell some of the new mil-spec brake fluid? I
haven't put any into my system yet but its about due. Let me know. I
guess about a quart would do. That should leave me with a small bit of
spare fluid ! ?
Jim Nelson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
It appears the timing on my 0-360A1A is off some. Since the points are not
opening at the same time I need to make some adjustment. My flywheel has a
line on it for TDC as well as 25 degrees. Where should the mark for 25 be
aligned on this engine for timing? I had thought it was the split in the
case but apparently that may not be the true.
My right mag points are opening well before the left mag but the left mag
seems pretty well opening with the impulse coupler.
I don't have an engine service manual for this engine, thus I needed to ask.
Thanks
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
OK, following up on this question. The left mag points are opening up about
25 degrees later and coincide with the snap of the impulse coupler. This
leads me to believe I need to do something to lock the impulse out in order
to time these together.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 2:36 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A
>
>
> It appears the timing on my 0-360A1A is off some. Since the points are
> not
> opening at the same time I need to make some adjustment. My flywheel has
> a
> line on it for TDC as well as 25 degrees. Where should the mark for 25 be
> aligned on this engine for timing? I had thought it was the split in the
> case but apparently that may not be the true.
>
> My right mag points are opening well before the left mag but the left mag
> seems pretty well opening with the impulse coupler.
>
> I don't have an engine service manual for this engine, thus I needed to
> ask.
> Thanks
> Tim
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Timing 0-360A1A |
If I remember right there are marks both on the front and on the back,
the marks on the back line up with the slit in the case at the top and
the ones on the front line up at a point on the starter. I think!
Someone else let Tim know if this is right.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> It appears the timing on my 0-360A1A is off some. Since the points are not
> opening at the same time I need to make some adjustment. My flywheel has a
> line on it for TDC as well as 25 degrees. Where should the mark for 25 be
> aligned on this engine for timing? I had thought it was the split in the
> case but apparently that may not be the true.
>
> My right mag points are opening well before the left mag but the left mag
> seems pretty well opening with the impulse coupler.
>
> I don't have an engine service manual for this engine, thus I needed to ask.
> Thanks
> Tim
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Timing 0-360A1A |
Turn the prop until the impulse coupler snaps then turn it back past
the timing mark then forward to time. On my engine the timing mark
lines up with a hole in the starter housing at the proper timing point.
Larry Pardue
On Dec 22, 2007, at 2:24 PM, Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> OK, following up on this question. The left mag points are opening
> up about
> 25 degrees later and coincide with the snap of the impulse
> coupler. This
> leads me to believe I need to do something to lock the impulse out
> in order
> to time these together.
>
> Any help appreciated.
> Thanks
> Tim
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
>> Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 2:36 PM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A
>>
>>
>> It appears the timing on my 0-360A1A is off some. Since the
>> points are
>> not
>> opening at the same time I need to make some adjustment. My
>> flywheel has
>> a
>> line on it for TDC as well as 25 degrees. Where should the mark
>> for 25 be
>> aligned on this engine for timing? I had thought it was the split
>> in the
>> case but apparently that may not be the true.
>>
>> My right mag points are opening well before the left mag but the
>> left mag
>> seems pretty well opening with the impulse coupler.
>>
>> I don't have an engine service manual for this engine, thus I
>> needed to
>> ask.
>> Thanks
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. |
Got mine in the mail today.
Looks good!!
Dave Nellis
--- gbrasch wrote:
>
>
> Thanks! Buckles Sold! Group Buy?
> Thanks to those who bought up my two tone gold and
> nickel, and nickel buckles. I was surprised at the
> response, must be some psychological factor about a
> closeout! I have gotten more requests for them, so
> if people are still interested, e mail me your
> contact info and I will save the requests and
> re-contact you if I get enough interest for a group
> buy of 6 or so. My brass models are still for sale
> on my website. Happy Holidays! Glenn
>
> --------
> Glenn Brasch
> RV-9A Finishing #90623, O-360
> Tucson, Arizona
>
> Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles
> http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153677#153677
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> Admin.
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Timing 0-360A1A |
Mine too .... I usually put a small drill bit in the hole on the starter to align
with the mark on the flywheel.?
Len Leggette
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com>
Sent: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 5:02 pm
Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A
?
Turn the prop until the impulse coupler snaps then turn it back past the timing
mark then forward to time. On my engine the timing mark lines up with a hole
in the starter housing at the proper timing point.?
?
Larry Pardue?
?
On Dec 22, 2007, at 2:24 PM, Tim Bryan wrote:?
?
>?
> OK, following up on this question. The left mag points are opening > up about?
> 25 degrees later and coincide with the snap of the impulse > coupler. This?
> leads me to believe I need to do something to lock the impulse out > in order?
> to time these together.?
>?
> Any help appreciated.?
> Thanks?
> Tim?
>?
>> -----Original Message-----?
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-?
>> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan?
>> Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 2:36 PM?
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com?
>> Subject: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A?
>>?
>>?
>> It appears the timing on my 0-360A1A is off some. Since the >> points are?
>> not?
>> opening at the same time I need to make some adjustment. My >> flywheel has?
>> a?
>> line on it for TDC as well as 25 degrees. Where should the mark >> for 25 be?
>> aligned on this engine for timing? I had thought it was the split >> in the?
>> case but apparently that may not be the true.?
>>?
>> My right mag points are opening well before the left mag but the >> left mag?
>> seems pretty well opening with the impulse coupler.?
>>?
>> I don't have an engine service manual for this engine, thus I >> needed to?
>> ask.?
>> Thanks?
>> Tim?
>>?
>>?
>>?
>>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
?
?
?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. |
| From: | "gbrasch" <gbrasch(at)earthlink.net> |
Glad you like it, Dave! Glenn
truflite(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Got mine in the mail today.
>
> Looks good!!
>
> Dave Nellis
>
> --- gbrasch wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks! Buckles Sold! Group Buy?
> > Thanks to those who bought up my two tone gold and
> > nickel, and nickel buckles. I was surprised at the
> > response, must be some psychological factor about a
> > closeout! I have gotten more requests for them, so
> > if people are still interested, e mail me your
> > contact info and I will save the requests and
> > re-contact you if I get enough interest for a group
> > buy of 6 or so. My brass models are still for sale
> > on my website. Happy Holidays! Glenn
> >
> > --------
> >
> >
> > Glenn Brasch
> > RV-9A Finishing #90623, O-360
> > Tucson, Arizona
> >
> > Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles
> > http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153677#153677
> >
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Click on
> > about
> > Admin.
> >
> > browse
> > Un/Subscription,
> > FAQ,
> >
> > Forums!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Looking for last minute shopping deals?
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Finishing #90623, O-360
Tucson, Arizona
Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153728#153728
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Just a Few Van's Belt Buckles.. |
In a message dated 12/22/2007 10:13:43 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
gbrasch(at)earthlink.net writes:
Thanks to those who bought up my two tone gold and nickel, and nickel
buckles. I was surprised at the response, must be some psychological factor about
a
closeout! I have gotten more requests for them, so if people are still
interested, e mail me your contact info and I will save the requests and
re-contact you if I get enough interest for a group buy of 6 or so. My brass models
are still for sale on my website. Happy Holidays!
==============================================================
I didn't know about them so it is nice to hear a sales pitch once in awhile.
Got my two toner today and it is quite nice. Thanks a million, Glenn.
I'll be wearing it with my new A-2 jacket and be the best looking airport rat
on
the flight line.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 872hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy "Big Cut" Question |
I just did my 6A tip-up with Sika and I'm not a big fan of the "make the big
cut and let the canopy settle" line of thinking. I had made 1/4" spacers
and set them on the bow and glare shield and found that I ended up with
about a 1" gap between the canopy and spacers. Because of the angle of the
front of the canopy, trimming the front 1" up would also move the front edge
back about the same amount. However, when I moved the canopy forward an
inch, I found that the gap had lessened and so I kept cutting the front
until I reduced the gap. Then I trimmed the sides until they fit into the
channels, and finally I marked and trimmed the aft curves after drilling the
canopy to the aft skin and channels and made sure the gaps for gluing were
still appropriate.
Before you cut any more from the aft area, you should still have enough room
to improve your fit. I varied the gluing process because I want that "Big
Cut line to be neat and also the overall canopy line to flow. So I masked
the rollover structure and glued the canopy to the canopy frame with the
frame in place on the fuselage. I crawled in from behind the baggage area
(that top skin is not in place yet, while I do some antenna wiring), and did
the fillets around the glare shield and bow and then crawled back out and
clecoed the aft skin on to position the rear of the canopy and I also did
the outside fillet on the glare shield. After it had set a week, I removed
the aft skin and the whole canopy lifted with the frame just fine.
It's been too cold here to continue, so I've been working on electrical
stuff. I've masked the rollover again, this time to expose where I want the
Sika to adhere. I've also masked the inside of the canopy in the same area.
My next step will be to glue the canopy to the rollover (I can reach in from
the aft to make the fillet on the back side of the bow). I'll cleco the aft
skin on again to set the position of the canopy. After it sets, I'll make
the big cut (I used red electrical tape to mask the inside of the canopy, so
it will be easy to see where to cut). Any Sika that has oozed forward can
be trimmed down to the rollover structure with a razor blade, and the
masking will keep the ooze from sticking to either the canopy or the
rollover.
To the question of the gap you have, I don't see how making the cut and
letting the pieces drop down to the canopy will fail to alter the entire
geometry of the canopy. Try a little more patience and get a better fit to
begin with.
Pat Kelley - RV-6A - routing antenna cables in a freezing hangar...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dwight Frye
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 7:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question
Ok gang ... my canopy trimming is going quite well. And I am getting
close (already there?) to being ready for the "big cut". I'm building
an RV-7 with a tip-up canopy, and I intend to glue with SikaFlex.
At this point I have the rough-trimming done all the way around. The
front of the canopy comes to the spot that the instructions suggest
is the "right place" (though I know this can easily vary a bit from
installation to installation). I have the "do not cut" line drawn
along the back of the canopy matching the curve of the rear fuselage
skin. I've trimmed to within 2 inches of that "do not cut" line. I
have also trimmed away the bits of plexiglas with the molding lines
from the sides, but am clearly not done trimming to an exact fit (nor
should I be, according to the instructions), at least on the sides
and along the back. The only place I'm trying to get the trim _exact_
is along the front. I tell all this to paint a picture of exactly where
I am in the canopy trimming/fitting process.
With the situation as described above, and with the sides of the canopy
being pressed firmly against the side of the fuselage, I am showing
roughly a 1-inch gap between the roll bar and the inside of the canopy.
Gus at Van's suggested that getting it down to a half-inch was ideal,
but I've heard others say they did the "big cut" with a as much as a
whopping 2-inch gap there.
So ... my question is, should I continue to trim to reduce the gap or
should I just DO it? If I want to reduce the gap the only option is to
trim from the front, I believe. I figure taking off a 1/4 inch at a
time would be the way to go. True? That would be tedious ... but ... at
this point I take "tedious" as a given.
Suggestions? Insights? Comments? Any and all are welcome.
-- Dwight
RV-7, Tip-up, XP-360, API fuel injection, Hartzell BA prop
(The slowest builder in the east .... )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic lines - thread sealant |
I would appreciate suggestions to cure the following.
I have a very slight weep on the joint where the standard Vans nylon brake
line enters into the aluminum master cylinder fitting.
Dave Emond
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic lines - thread sealant |
Dave,
You may need to give the nylon fitting another turn into the aluminum master
cylinder. If you are like me...I was reluctant to give the nylon another
turn when it didn't clock right into the proper position..so the threaded
connection was not really tight. I then fought leaky connections for a year
until I finally decided I had to give it another turn and risk stripping the
nylon threads. I just did another one last week on one of the pedal
cylinder. I turned it about 300 dergrees. The threads didn't strip and the
leak appears to be gone.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 3:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Hydraulic lines - thread sealant
>
> I would appreciate suggestions to cure the following.
>
> I have a very slight weep on the joint where the standard Vans nylon brake
> line enters into the aluminum master cylinder fitting.
>
>
> Dave Emond
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Timing 0-360A1A |
Learning on your own is admirable but this may be a case where
hiring an A&P to show you how to do it may be in your best interest.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Any builders in the Covington, GA area? |
Hi folks,
I'm currently visiting a friend in Covington, GA - will stay here until the 5th.
Are the any builders in the area - preferably RV8A builders - that would like
to show me their project? I just delivery of an RV 8A kit.
Thanks
Thilo
--
GMX FreeMail: 1 GB Postfach, 5 E-Mail-Adressen, 10 Free SMS.
Alle Infos und kostenlose Anmeldung: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/freemail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Overall <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com> |
Tim, I think you will find good reading here:
http://www.sacskyranch.com/timingbendixslick.htm
http://www.sacskyranch.com/faqslickmagneto.htm
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
_________________________________________________________________
The best games are on Xbox 360. Click here for a special offer on an Xbox
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canopy "Big Cut" Question |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Dwight,
I did the skia flex on my canopy. Make sure you have the spacers
in place that will keep the canopy up away from the metal structures that
you will glue to. This will require the canopy to be "longer" on the
sides to make up for the raising of the canopy. I did the slider and
"forgot" about the difference. Needless to say, I had to make the side
skins again to make up for the taller canopy. I had cut to fit and then
went oops! I also had to make my rear canopy fairing from glass as the
aluminum would not work as the canopy was taller back there. It worked
out ok and I'm happy with the fit. The same goes for the windscreen in
the front. I used about a 3/8" spacer to let the adhesive work properly.
I did bolt the sides thru the canopy to the frame. Those are the only
holes in my canopy.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
With the help, I think I got it all figured out. Results:
Data plate indicates timing is 25 BTDC.
The left mag with impulse points open exactly at 25 BTDC
The impulse fires exactly at TDC
The right mag points open at the valley before the timing mark indicating
they open about 1.5 degrees early. According to all indication I have found
if it is within 2 degrees it is acceptable.
I guess I am concluding the timing is OK. And the bonus is I understand it
again as I had done this before but several years ago. I just had forgotten
how to go through this process.
Thanks to all, happy building
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
> Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 9:21 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Timing 0-360A1A
>
>
> Learning on your own is admirable but this may be a case where
> hiring an A&P to show you how to do it may be in your best interest.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy "Big Cut" Question |
Hmm.. thus you have more headroom in the airplane. How much did you think
you added? One of our local RV-9A folks used this technique and it never
occurred to me that you would be increasing headroom. I have just started
an RV-7 and may consider the sikaflex method when the time comes.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, 450 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 10:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question
>
> Dwight,
> I did the skia flex on my canopy. Make sure you have the spacers
> in place that will keep the canopy up away from the metal structures that
> you will glue to. This will require the canopy to be "longer" on the
> sides to make up for the raising of the canopy. I did the slider and
> "forgot" about the difference. Needless to say, I had to make the side
> skins again to make up for the taller canopy. I had cut to fit and then
> went oops! I also had to make my rear canopy fairing from glass as the
> aluminum would not work as the canopy was taller back there. It worked
> out ok and I'm happy with the fit. The same goes for the windscreen in
> the front. I used about a 3/8" spacer to let the adhesive work properly.
> I did bolt the sides thru the canopy to the frame. Those are the only
> holes in my canopy.
>
>
> Jim Nelson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy "Big Cut" Question |
He added 3/8". That's the recommended spacing. It may make the difference
between wearing a cap or not, but it's not huge.
Pat Kelley - RV-6A - Hoping Santa brings me an engine...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Weiler
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question
Hmm.. thus you have more headroom in the airplane. How much did you think
you added? One of our local RV-9A folks used this technique and it never
occurred to me that you would be increasing headroom. I have just started
an RV-7 and may consider the sikaflex method when the time comes.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, 450 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 10:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy "Big Cut" Question
>
> Dwight,
> I did the skia flex on my canopy. Make sure you have the spacers
> in place that will keep the canopy up away from the metal structures that
> you will glue to. This will require the canopy to be "longer" on the
> sides to make up for the raising of the canopy. I did the slider and
> "forgot" about the difference. Needless to say, I had to make the side
> skins again to make up for the taller canopy. I had cut to fit and then
> went oops! I also had to make my rear canopy fairing from glass as the
> aluminum would not work as the canopy was taller back there. It worked
> out ok and I'm happy with the fit. The same goes for the windscreen in
> the front. I used about a 3/8" spacer to let the adhesive work properly.
> I did bolt the sides thru the canopy to the frame. Those are the only
> holes in my canopy.
>
>
> Jim Nelson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Edward Anderson
Lists: RV-List
Subject: Brake Line Failure
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/eanderson@carolina.rr.com.12.23.2007/index.html
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Brakeline Failure Photos [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List |
Photo Share Available!
For those interested, there are two photos of my brake line fracture and
fire at the below Matronics link. One shows the charred tire and wheel pant
and the other shows the broken brake line - with a chunk of the side of the
tube clearly blown out.
Ed
Ed Anderson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Email List Photo Shares" <pictures(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 5:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
>
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Edward Anderson
>
> Lists: RV-List
>
> Subject: Brake Line Failure
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/eanderson@carolina.rr.com.12.23.2007/index.html
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> o Main Photo Share Index
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
> o Submitting a Photo Share
>
> If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
> following information along with your email message and files:
>
> 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
> 2) Your Full Name:
> 3) Your Email Address:
> 4) One line Subject description:
> 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
> 6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
>
> Email the information above and your files and photos to:
>
> pictures(at)matronics.com
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakeline Failure Photos [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email |
List Photo Share Available!
Ed,
Perhaps I missed an earlier post on this subject but I would like to know
what caused your brakes to get so hot in the first place. Had you been
practicing short field landings with max braking? Maybe you had a brake
dragging and you were not awear of it. Just wondering. It's hard for me to
imagine brakes getting that hot in "normal" braking conditions.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV-8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 6:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brakeline Failure Photos [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email
List Photo Share Available!
>
> For those interested, there are two photos of my brake line fracture and
> fire at the below Matronics link. One shows the charred tire and wheel
> pant and the other shows the broken brake line - with a chunk of the side
> of the tube clearly blown out.
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Email List Photo Shares" <pictures(at)matronics.com>
> To: "Email List Photo Shares"
> Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 5:55 PM
> Subject: RV-List: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share
> Available!
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>>
>> Poster: Edward Anderson
>>
>> Lists: RV-List
>>
>> Subject: Brake Line Failure
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/eanderson@carolina.rr.com.12.23.2007/index.html
>>
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> o Main Photo Share Index
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>>
>> o Submitting a Photo Share
>>
>> If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
>> following information along with your email message and files:
>>
>> 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
>> 2) Your Full Name:
>> 3) Your Email Address:
>> 4) One line Subject description:
>> 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
>> 6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
>>
>> Email the information above and your files and photos to:
>>
>> pictures(at)matronics.com
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: canopy options, was Canopy "Big Cut" Question |
Hi Doug-
>Hmm.. thus you have more headroom in the airplane. How much did you think
>you added?
As of 2 years ago, Todd's canopies in FL could make you a canopy with more
headroom, thicker material, all manner of tints, and less cost than the OEM
unit. Plus, they're guaranteed. If you break it, the replacement is
(relatively) cheap.
FWIW-
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Brakeline Failure Photos |
Hi Steve,
Reasonable questions. At the time, I had over 50 hours on those brake pads
and no indication of dragging.
No, I had started my take off roll and had almost reached lift off when the
engine started to miss. Since I was on a 4000 foot runway, I decided to
abort the take off to check things out before setting off on my 800 mile
return trip to NC. So I aborted and coasted down to the far end which was
on a downhill grade and everything seemed normal as I braked for the turn
around. As I pushed on the right brake peddle to turn I noticed the brake
seemed mushy. On the way back, I gunned the engine to check out the engine
miss and was probably riding the brakes a bit to keep the speed down, when
the right brake peddle goes to the floor board. Things really got exciting
after that point. Loss of steering, airplane on fire and off runway
excursion!!
I did not think at the time I had ridden the brakes that hard and I may or
may not have. But when I did a bit of research, I found the flash point of
the brake fluid was between 215F and 240F - believe me. any braking at all
can get your disc up to that temperature easily. I also posted to the list
the same thing happening on an RV-8A. The low flash point of the brake
fluid is the reason I then switched to the newer brake fluid with a flash
point of nearly 440F. So did my braking contribute to the temps of the
disc - no question it did, was it unusually braking - I didn't think so at
the time or now - but its clear that any disc temp over 240F could have
cooked off the fluid. But, it would have been a moot point, had the brake
line not broke and sprayed fluid on the hot disc.
I did a quick calculation of the kinetic energy dissipation required to
bring my 1700 lb aircraft to a stop from 60 mph. If I did the calculations
correctly it indicated I could get a disc temp max temperature increase of
330F. The temp depends of course, on how hard I braked or how long the slow
down took. So that is probably the maximum increase, but even if it were
1/2 that rise in temp, if starting out with a ambient temp of 80 + 330/2 =
240F which is above the fluid's flash point. So it does not take a lot of
braking to get those disc temps up.
That is also one reason I discarded the old discs and went with ones that
were twice as thick as the standard van discs. Having more disc material to
absorb the same amount of heat will keep the disc temp lower.
YMMV
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brakeline Failure Photos [ Edward Anderson ] : New
Email List Photo Share Available!
>
> Ed,
>
> Perhaps I missed an earlier post on this subject but I would like to know
> what caused your brakes to get so hot in the first place. Had you been
> practicing short field landings with max braking? Maybe you had a brake
> dragging and you were not awear of it. Just wondering. It's hard for me to
> imagine brakes getting that hot in "normal" braking conditions.
>
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles, MO
> RV-8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
> To: "RV-List"
> Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 6:23 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Brakeline Failure Photos [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email
> List Photo Share Available!
>
>
>>
>> For those interested, there are two photos of my brake line fracture and
>> fire at the below Matronics link. One shows the charred tire and wheel
>> pant and the other shows the broken brake line - with a chunk of the side
>> of the tube clearly blown out.
>>
>> Ed
>>
>> Ed Anderson
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Email List Photo Shares" <pictures(at)matronics.com>
>> To: "Email List Photo Shares"
>> Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 5:55 PM
>> Subject: RV-List: [ Edward Anderson ] : New Email List Photo Share
>> Available!
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>>>
>>> Poster: Edward Anderson
>>>
>>> Lists: RV-List
>>>
>>> Subject: Brake Line Failure
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/eanderson@carolina.rr.com.12.23.2007/index.html
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> o Main Photo Share Index
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>>>
>>> o Submitting a Photo Share
>>>
>>> If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
>>> following information along with your email message and files:
>>>
>>> 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
>>> 2) Your Full Name:
>>> 3) Your Email Address:
>>> 4) One line Subject description:
>>> 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
>>> 6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
>>>
>>> Email the information above and your files and photos to:
>>>
>>> pictures(at)matronics.com
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | spinner screw spacing |
My old (1999) Van's manual doesn't specify the spacing for the screws in
the aft spinner bulkhead. Does any one know the nominal value? I'm
guessing it's 2.5 - 3.0 inches.
--
Tom S., RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spinner screw spacing |
RV-6A, O-360, FP prop
1) 2 blade Aymar Demuth prop: Average about 2.5 inches but
varied from 2.35 to 2.6 inches
2) 3 blade Catto prop: average 2.4 inches but again some variance
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
Hi Linn,
I would partly disagree with you about the timing. The most critical thing
is that both mags are equal, but if they are slightly off of 25 it just
means the engine will be most efficient at a slightly different RPM. Since
we don't know what that was when set at 25 it really doesn't matter.
I've found that setting them at 23 brought chts down by 20 deg and egts up
by about 50-75
But they should be within .5 deg of each other.
There's an SB on 0-360-A1A's installed in Mooney's, I think, which allows
for them to be set all the way back to 20.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
It is a service instruction, not a bulletin, and it is for 200 hp IO360s
regardless of airframe.
It requires internal modification to the mags, so that starting timing
remains at TDC while cruise timing is 20 degrees. You will cause
problems if you just dial it back to 20 degrees.
The change was to reduce peak cylinder pressures for extreme cold temp
operations to prevent cylinder heads from flying off the engine, dates
back to the late seventies.
Not applicable to the lower compression O-360 engines.
Wheeler North wrote:
>
> Hi Linn,
>
> I would partly disagree with you about the timing. The most critical thing
> is that both mags are equal, but if they are slightly off of 25 it just
> means the engine will be most efficient at a slightly different RPM. Since
> we don't know what that was when set at 25 it really doesn't matter.
>
> I've found that setting them at 23 brought chts down by 20 deg and egts up
> by about 50-75
>
> But they should be within .5 deg of each other.
>
> There's an SB on 0-360-A1A's installed in Mooney's, I think, which allows
> for them to be set all the way back to 20.
>
> W
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Frederick" <f1boss(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | synthetic brake fluid -- available locally |
As an option to spending your hard earned cash on special order brake fluid,
you can purchase the same stuff from your local auto parts store, but it
will be labeled synthetic automatic transmission fluid....
Merry Christmas!
--
Cheers!
Mark Frederick
Team Rocket LP
www.teamrocketaircraft.com
Tech Support 512.352.6979
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally |
Can you provide a source that substantiates this?
Since I have not added anything to my brake system since
I bought it but may make some mods to improve its durability,
I may add such fluid.
I believe that you never use automotive brake fluid in aircraft
brake systems. Is that correct? I have heard of using auto
transmission fluid but would like confirmation from those more
knowing about it.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Frederick
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 6:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally
As an option to spending your hard earned cash on special order brake
fluid, you can purchase the same stuff from your local auto parts store,
but it will be labeled synthetic automatic transmission fluid....
Merry Christmas!
--
Cheers!
Mark Frederick
Team Rocket LP
www.teamrocketaircraft.com
Tech Support 512.352.6979
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally |
A couple of years back I studied the spec sheets for Aeroshell Fluid 30 and
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and found they are virtually the same (composition,
flash point, viscosities, etc.). I would have to guess that there are at
least 20 RV's/Rockets I know of (mine included) that have been flying for
years without any leaks, drips, flames, etc. using ATF in the brake lines.
If I were a betting man I'd bet the newer replacements for 5606 are
rebranded automatic transmission fluid.
About $6.00/qt at your local Walmart.
Its been known that urine, bottled water, soft drinks will work as a fluid
in hydraulic systems in a pinch, FWIW... IMO opinion these fluids are
superior to 5606, as unfortunately original poster found out the hard way.
O-rings in the system wouldn't last long with these fluids though.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally |
I don't know - so can't comment on ATF - as suitable brake fluid. But,
as Bob said, I found out the hard way about the flammability of the 5606
- fortunately without destroying my aircraft. You may never have a
brake line failure (hopefully), and if you do it may not ignite,
however, trust me once is more than enough. If you can't get rolling is
one thing - not being able to get stopped is a horse of different color.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob J.
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally
A couple of years back I studied the spec sheets for Aeroshell Fluid
30 and Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and found they are virtually the same
(composition, flash point, viscosities, etc.). I would have to guess
that there are at least 20 RV's/Rockets I know of (mine included) that
have been flying for years without any leaks, drips, flames, etc. using
ATF in the brake lines.
If I were a betting man I'd bet the newer replacements for 5606 are
rebranded automatic transmission fluid.
About $6.00/qt at your local Walmart.
Its been known that urine, bottled water, soft drinks will work as a
fluid in hydraulic systems in a pinch, FWIW... IMO opinion these fluids
are superior to 5606, as unfortunately original poster found out the
hard way. O-rings in the system wouldn't last long with these fluids
though.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally |
Which leads to the next question:
What's a good way to purge the system of 5606 and refill with ATF?
Would it suffice to cycle a pint (?) of ATF through the system by using
the brake pedals to push it through to force out the 5606?
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob J.
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally
A couple of years back I studied the spec sheets for Aeroshell Fluid
30 and Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and found they are virtually the same
(composition, flash point, viscosities, etc.). I would have to guess
that there are at least 20 RV's/Rockets I know of (mine included) that
have been flying for years without any leaks, drips, flames, etc. using
ATF in the brake lines.
If I were a betting man I'd bet the newer replacements for 5606 are
rebranded automatic transmission fluid.
About $6.00/qt at your local Walmart.
Its been known that urine, bottled water, soft drinks will work as a
fluid in hydraulic systems in a pinch, FWIW... IMO opinion these fluids
are superior to 5606, as unfortunately original poster found out the
hard way. O-rings in the system wouldn't last long with these fluids
though.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally |
KB, I don't know about the ATF - but the new 83282 if fully compatible
with the older 5606, you can even mix the two although the flash point
will not be as high as pure 83282. So there is no requirement to get
the last drop of the 5606 out of the system. Presumably if the ATF is
the same liquid as the 83282 then you could do the same. IF they are the
same.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally
Which leads to the next question:
What's a good way to purge the system of 5606 and refill with ATF?
Would it suffice to cycle a pint (?) of ATF through the system by using
the brake pedals to push it through to force out the 5606?
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob J.
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally
A couple of years back I studied the spec sheets for Aeroshell Fluid
30 and Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and found they are virtually the same
(composition, flash point, viscosities, etc.). I would have to guess
that there are at least 20 RV's/Rockets I know of (mine included) that
have been flying for years without any leaks, drips, flames, etc. using
ATF in the brake lines.
If I were a betting man I'd bet the newer replacements for 5606 are
rebranded automatic transmission fluid.
About $6.00/qt at your local Walmart.
Its been known that urine, bottled water, soft drinks will work as a
fluid in hydraulic systems in a pinch, FWIW... IMO opinion these fluids
are superior to 5606, as unfortunately original poster found out the
hard way. O-rings in the system wouldn't last long with these fluids
though.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
While all of that is true the inherent point was the engine will run just
fine at altered timing, particularly just off a degree or two. And in fact
may run a bit better with respect to chts and or egts depending on how well
your airplane is cooling. I back mine down to 23 during summer and kick it
up to 25 during winter.
However the mags should fire at as close a time as possible. It is one
reason I'm not in favor of running one mag and one variable ECM base
ignition system. It is probably not too bad when they fire very differently
as the later spark is wasted, but when they are firing close, heaven only
knows what that does to the flame front, balanced piston loads, and
potential detonation issues.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally |
I may have missed the post that mentions where to purchase Mil-H-83282
brake fluid. Could someone tell me where I can purchase it?
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
RV-6A flying
Kyle Boatright wrote:
> Which leads to the next question:
>
> What's a good way to purge the system of 5606 and refill with ATF?
> Would it suffice to cycle a pint (?) of ATF through the system by
> using the brake pedals to push it through to force out the 5606?
>
> KB
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob J. <mailto:rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 10:27 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally
>
> A couple of years back I studied the spec sheets for Aeroshell
> Fluid 30 and Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and found they are virtually
> the same (composition, flash point, viscosities, etc.). I would
> have to guess that there are at least 20 RV's/Rockets I know of
> (mine included) that have been flying for years without any leaks,
> drips, flames, etc. using ATF in the brake lines.
>
> If I were a betting man I'd bet the newer replacements for 5606
> are rebranded automatic transmission fluid.
>
> About $6.00/qt at your local Walmart.
>
> Its been known that urine, bottled water, soft drinks will work as
> a fluid in hydraulic systems in a pinch, FWIW... IMO opinion
> these fluids are superior to 5606, as unfortunately original
> poster found out the hard way. O-rings in the system wouldn't
> last long with these fluids though.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
>
>href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
Wow this thread has become very interesting. My timing was actually about
26 degrees on one mag and closer to 24 on the second mag. I have had high
CHT's all along and have done everything I can think of to get my temps down
without full success. I installed louvers in the cowl, sealed around my
baffles with goup, put a door behind my oil cooler and closed off one of my
heater intakes. I still after settling into cruise get about 399-405
degrees for CHT's with oil temps around 185.
Now I have changed my timing to be right together at 25 degrees. I have not
flown yet, but when summer comes around I may very well try adjusting it to
about 23 to see what happens.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
> Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 11:29 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: timing
>
>
> While all of that is true the inherent point was the engine will run just
> fine at altered timing, particularly just off a degree or two. And in fact
> may run a bit better with respect to chts and or egts depending on how
> well
> your airplane is cooling. I back mine down to 23 during summer and kick it
> up to 25 during winter.
>
> However the mags should fire at as close a time as possible. It is one
> reason I'm not in favor of running one mag and one variable ECM base
> ignition system. It is probably not too bad when they fire very
> differently
> as the later spark is wasted, but when they are firing close, heaven only
> knows what that does to the flame front, balanced piston loads, and
> potential detonation issues.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
Tim, what is your compression ratio? If around 9.5:1 what I have read
states that timing should be 20 degrees BTDC.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
I don't know right now. It is standard 0-360 however. I will look later
when I get back home. My data tag from Aero Sport says 25 BTDC.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
> Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 1:43 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: timing
>
>
> Tim, what is your compression ratio? If around 9.5:1 what I have read
> states that timing should be 20 degrees BTDC.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally |
There are a number of places, Richard, but here is where I got mine.
Only down side is the minimum order is 1 gallon at $25.00. It's the
4th product on the list MIL-PRF-83282.
http://commerce.acilubes.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=7
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Dudley
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally
I may have missed the post that mentions where to purchase Mil-H-83282
brake fluid. Could someone tell me where I can purchase it?
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
RV-6A flying
Kyle Boatright wrote:
Which leads to the next question:
What's a good way to purge the system of 5606 and refill with ATF?
Would it suffice to cycle a pint (?) of ATF through the system by using
the brake pedals to push it through to force out the 5606?
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob J.
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: synthetic brake fluid -- available locally
A couple of years back I studied the spec sheets for Aeroshell
Fluid 30 and Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and found they are virtually the same
(composition, flash point, viscosities, etc.). I would have to guess
that there are at least 20 RV's/Rockets I know of (mine included) that
have been flying for years without any leaks, drips, flames, etc. using
ATF in the brake lines.
If I were a betting man I'd bet the newer replacements for 5606
are rebranded automatic transmission fluid.
About $6.00/qt at your local Walmart.
Its been known that urine, bottled water, soft drinks will work as
a fluid in hydraulic systems in a pinch, FWIW... IMO opinion these
fluids are superior to 5606, as unfortunately original poster found out
the hard way. O-rings in the system wouldn't last long with these
fluids though.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
Tim, your the first one I've heard of that has the exact same thing as I
do. In cruise on 80-90 degree days I have about 400 CHTs and on climb
out I have to level off about 1500 ft and pull back the throttle when
the CHTs get to about 430 degrees. I've done the same things that you
have, checked timing, checked baffles, put the louvers in the bottom of
the cowl. I have a Superior XPO360 with one mag and one lightspeed.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> Wow this thread has become very interesting. My timing was actually about
> 26 degrees on one mag and closer to 24 on the second mag. I have had high
> CHT's all along and have done everything I can think of to get my temps down
> without full success. I installed louvers in the cowl, sealed around my
> baffles with goup, put a door behind my oil cooler and closed off one of my
> heater intakes. I still after settling into cruise get about 399-405
> degrees for CHT's with oil temps around 185.
>
> Now I have changed my timing to be right together at 25 degrees. I have not
> flown yet, but when summer comes around I may very well try adjusting it to
> about 23 to see what happens.
>
> Tim
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 11:29 AM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: timing
>>
>>
>> While all of that is true the inherent point was the engine will run just
>> fine at altered timing, particularly just off a degree or two. And in fact
>> may run a bit better with respect to chts and or egts depending on how
>> well
>> your airplane is cooling. I back mine down to 23 during summer and kick it
>> up to 25 during winter.
>>
>> However the mags should fire at as close a time as possible. It is one
>> reason I'm not in favor of running one mag and one variable ECM base
>> ignition system. It is probably not too bad when they fire very
>> differently
>> as the later spark is wasted, but when they are firing close, heaven only
>> knows what that does to the flame front, balanced piston loads, and
>> potential detonation issues.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John DeCuir <jadecuir(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel & bearings |
It's time to replace my tailwheel, since it's down to 5" dia. Does
anyone have a better source than Vans, or better bearing ideas?
John DeCuir
N204CP
RV4, SNS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MR Corder <mike.corder(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank questions |
I've just started flying an RV-7A with Grand Rapids displays and Van's
float type sensors. I have a couple of questions for people who have a
similar setup:
1. What did you find the maximum indicated fuel to be ?
2. Did you find the GRT recommended calibration to work for you ? There
are two of us on the field and neither of us have gotten satisfactory
results. Any alternative methods appreciated.
--
Regards,
m
____________________________
mike.corder(at)sbcglobal.net
Cell 831-239-0915
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel & bearings |
A Google search for: RV Tail wheel
http://www.vansairforce.net/buildermodifications/tailwheel/Tailwheel_DougBell.htm
http://www.rvproject.com/20060309.html
http://www.decisionlabs.com/QuickPlace/wayne/Main.nsf/h_Toc/C659F28ABCA0A5C4852572830074B73A/?OpenDocument
http://www.decisionlabs.com/QuickPlace/wayne/Main.nsf/h_Toc/3F6DF4BE0484540D85257291005B7BAE/?OpenDocument
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
John DeCuir wrote:
>
> It's time to replace my tailwheel, since it's down to 5" dia. Does
> anyone have a better source than Vans, or better bearing ideas?
>
> John DeCuir
> N204CP
> RV4, SNS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank questions |
I have an 8A with float sensors and the Grand Rapids EIS. I find the fuel
level indication to be quite accurate following the calibration as
recommended by Grand Rapids. I set up the float senders to be accurate at
the bottom end of the tank level as the sensor does not have the range to do
the full tank level. I did the "one gallon at a time" calibration of the
EIS, logging down the EIS reading at each gallon. From this data you create
a line equation just like you did back in High School algebra: Y=mX+B, where
Y is gallons, m is the slope of the line, x is the reading you got while
calibrating, and B is the offset so that 0 gallons reads out as 0. You set
m and B as constants in the EIS so that your panel reading is in gallons.
Have the plane level when you do this calibration data run.
On my standard tank, readings go from 0 to 13 gallons. Any level above 13
gallons just reads 13 gallons. On the flop tube tank, readings go from 0 to
16 gallons. The senders are mounted in different locations in each tank,
thus the difference in ranges.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (375 hrs)
RV-10 (wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MR Corder
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 6:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank questions
I've just started flying an RV-7A with Grand Rapids displays and Van's
float type sensors. I have a couple of questions for people who have a
similar setup:
1. What did you find the maximum indicated fuel to be ?
2. Did you find the GRT recommended calibration to work for you ? There
are two of us on the field and neither of us have gotten satisfactory
results. Any alternative methods appreciated.
--
Regards,
m
____________________________
mike.corder(at)sbcglobal.net
Cell 831-239-0915
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
If I recall, my small Continentals (65 & 85) have different timings that
are 2 degrees apart...something like 28 on the left and 30 on the right
maybe?
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
>Wow this thread has become very interesting. My timing was actually about
>26 degrees on one mag and closer to 24 on the second mag. I have had high
>CHT's all along and have done everything I can think of to get my temps down
>without full success. I installed louvers in the cowl, sealed around my
>baffles with goup, put a door behind my oil cooler and closed off one of my
>heater intakes. I still after settling into cruise get about 399-405
>degrees for CHT's with oil temps around 185.
>
>Now I have changed my timing to be right together at 25 degrees. I have not
>flown yet, but when summer comes around I may very well try adjusting it to
>about 23 to see what happens.
>
>Tim
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>>server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
>>Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 11:29 AM
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: timing
>>
>>
>>While all of that is true the inherent point was the engine will run just
>>fine at altered timing, particularly just off a degree or two. And in fact
>>may run a bit better with respect to chts and or egts depending on how
>>well
>>your airplane is cooling. I back mine down to 23 during summer and kick it
>>up to 25 during winter.
>>
>>However the mags should fire at as close a time as possible. It is one
>>reason I'm not in favor of running one mag and one variable ECM base
>>ignition system. It is probably not too bad when they fire very
>>differently
>>as the later spark is wasted, but when they are firing close, heaven only
>>knows what that does to the flame front, balanced piston loads, and
>>potential detonation issues.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
The standard O-360 parallel valve engine is 8.5 to 1 in its certified
configuration. YMMV if anyone did modifications.
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> I don't know right now. It is standard 0-360 however. I will look later
> when I get back home. My data tag from Aero Sport says 25 BTDC.
> Tim
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 1:43 PM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: timing
>>
>>
>> Tim, what is your compression ratio? If around 9.5:1 what I have read
>> states that timing should be 20 degrees BTDC.
>>
>> Ron Lee
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Cabin Heat Routing |
Anyone come up with a good place to run the duct for the cabin heat? Just about
anywhere up front will burn my legs, and haven't quite figured a way to get
the heat throughout the cabin. Was thinking of using the warm/cold mixer box
that Van's sells, and could then run heat through the vents. Thoughts?
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD "Sunny"
Arizona
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
Try running on the lightspeed only. I have the same setup but with a O320.
The temps on my engine come right down when I run on lightspeed only. Have no
idea why.
Bob
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
Hi Bobby,
Have any of those things you did made a difference? The baffles made the
biggest difference for me but not enough in my opinion. In summer I am at
over 460 degrees after climb out at 110 mph initially then lowering the nose
to about 130. I don't have to climb to more than 4 or 5,000 to be this hot.
The louvers made the biggest difference in cruise as I was cruising at
nearly 425 degrees and after the louvers it is pretty close to 400.
I haven't given up on finding the reason my engine runs hotter than everyone
else with the exact same thing, but I have run out of ideas. What do you
have your timing set to?
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: timing
Tim, your the first one I've heard of that has the exact same thing as I do.
In cruise on 80-90 degree days I have about 400 CHTs and on climb out I have
to level off about 1500 ft and pull back the throttle when the CHTs get to
about 430 degrees. I've done the same things that you have, checked timing,
checked baffles, put the louvers in the bottom of the cowl. I have a
Superior XPO360 with one mag and one lightspeed.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Tim Bryan wrote:
Wow this thread has become very interesting. My timing was actually about
26 degrees on one mag and closer to 24 on the second mag. I have had high
CHT's all along and have done everything I can think of to get my temps down
without full success. I installed louvers in the cowl, sealed around my
baffles with goup, put a door behind my oil cooler and closed off one of my
heater intakes. I still after settling into cruise get about 399-405
degrees for CHT's with oil temps around 185.
Now I have changed my timing to be right together at 25 degrees. I have not
flown yet, but when summer comes around I may very well try adjusting it to
about 23 to see what happens.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 11:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: timing
While all of that is true the inherent point was the engine will run just
fine at altered timing, particularly just off a degree or two. And in fact
may run a bit better with respect to chts and or egts depending on how
well
your airplane is cooling. I back mine down to 23 during summer and kick it
up to 25 during winter.
However the mags should fire at as close a time as possible. It is one
reason I'm not in favor of running one mag and one variable ECM base
ignition system. It is probably not too bad when they fire very
differently
as the later spark is wasted, but when they are firing close, heaven only
knows what that does to the flame front, balanced piston loads, and
potential detonation issues.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
Hi Ron,
I can't find anything that indicates my compression ratio. I purchased it
from Aerosport Power and did not specify anything but standard so I can only
presume it is the 8.5 : 1 somebody referred to.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
> Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 1:43 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: timing
>
>
> Tim, what is your compression ratio? If around 9.5:1 what I have read
> states that timing should be 20 degrees BTDC.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
The piston part numbers may be able to help - there should be a list of components
in your documentation.
I got 9.2:1 with mine.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
>Sent: Dec 26, 2007 10:33 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: timing
>
>
>Hi Ron,
>
>I can't find anything that indicates my compression ratio. I purchased it
>from Aerosport Power and did not specify anything but standard so I can only
>presume it is the 8.5 : 1 somebody referred to.
>
>Tim
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 1:43 PM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: timing
>>
>>
>> Tim, what is your compression ratio? If around 9.5:1 what I have read
>> states that timing should be 20 degrees BTDC.
>>
>> Ron Lee
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
FWIW - I have an O-320-160 HP w/ fixed prop and was runniing two
December 10, 2007 - December 26, 2007
RV-Archive.digest.vol-te