RV-List Archive Browser

RV-Archive.digest.vol-tg
January 17, 2008 - February 08, 2008

Subject: RE: ifr props, was IFR GPS requirements
Hi Bret- RE: ... aircraft with "composite props" could not be certified for IFR flights. 2 of the 3 prop driven airliners I've flown in the past had composite props. I suspect someone has gotten something crossed up somewhere. glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Subject: Re: Controlling defrost fans
RALPH, WE HAVE HAD FANS IN THE LAST 3 RV'S WITH JUST THE ON/OFF SWITCH. U SURE WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO HEAR THEM. DOUG PRESTON N372RV **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Subject: Re: Controlling defrost fans
I have several computer cooling fans in my RV9A on the wind screen. I only have on/off, they are very quiet and also serve as a window defroster. I see no need for a rheostat. Kim Nicholas In a message dated 1/17/2008 6:40:48 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, recapen(at)earthlink.net writes: I am wondering if a straight on-off switch is sufficient or should I put in a rheostat to control the fan speed? KISS would dictate that a simple on-off switch would work - but has anyone out there wished for a half-speed? **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 2008
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: How To Found: was Home-made 406 MHz alternatives?
How about GM make "ON STAR" and airbags for planes? Ha-ha You could call and ask for cheapest av gas or good hotel on a cross country. Or give a heads up to the family of your ETA. No doubt in the next decade or two we'll have this for GA. However with gas costing what it does, I wounder if GA will exist. --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: How To Found: was Home-made 406 MHz alternatives?
Date: Jan 17, 2008
George, I also am not optimistic about GA. The real indicator that GA is under pressure is that I am cutting my flying. Just get a Spot and the problem is solved. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andy Gold" <andygold(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Painting Your RV?
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Painting Your RV? Here are some new titles, (and a couple old ones) that will help you design and do the job How To Paint Your Own Aircraft by Ron Alexander An easy to follow book on aircraft painting techniques by Sport-air Workshops and EAA. This book discusses materials, equipment, preparation, spraying, detailing, and safety concerns. It is simple but clearly written, and should be sufficient to prepare you for the task of painting a new aircraft. For more information see: www.actechbooks.com/paint_your_own_airplane.htm $19.95 book or e-Book take 10% off today* ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- Automotive Paint Handbook by John Pfanstiehl Yes, I know - there is a car on the cover. But it is still the absolute best book we've found covering the high tech polyurethane and 2 part epoxy paints and primers that are commonly used on aircraft such as Imron, ChromaSystem, and VariPrime The use of modern HVLP guns are completely covered along with compressors, filters and health protection devices... It covers preparing your work, spraying, resolving problems, making repairs, custom techniques, cleaning, paint inspection, etc. For more information see: www.actechbooks.com/automotive_paint_handbook.htm $18.95 take 10% off today* ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- Aircraft Painting 101- DVD by Sam James A Pixar production it is not. But for 2 hours of excellent and detailed information specifically on painting an RV (an RV-4) with Dupont Veriprime and Chromabase systems this is it. Sam James takes you through the complete process of working an RV fuel tank, wheel pant, and detailed design on a horizontal stabilizer. $25.95 take 10% off today* ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- How to Pinstripe All you need to know about mastering the form of pinstriping. We have all seen some amazing and unique paint schemes on RVs and other custom aircraft. If you too would consider such a challenge, here's how its done. For more information see: www.actechbooks.com/how_to_pinstripe.htm $25.95 take 10% off today* ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- How To Airbrush by JoAnn Bortles All you need to know about mastering the techniques of airbrushing. We have all seen some amazing and unique paint schemes on RVs and other custom aircraft. If you too would consider such a challenge, here's how its done. Completely illustrated with step by step color photography throughout. For more information see: www.actechbooks.com/airbrush_painting_techniques.htm $24.95 take 10% off today* ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- Aircraft Noseart by Jeffery Ethell Looking for some unique ideas with your newly discovered pinstriping and airbrush skills? From pin-ups, to shark mouths, to Popeye, this book is full of high quality color photos to inspire any military orientated custom paint scheme. For more information see: www.actechbooks.com/aircraft_nose_art.htm $24.95 (hard cover) take 10% off today* ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- also new: Health For Pilots by Paul Gahlinger MD A Complete guide to FAA medical certification and self care. This book explains every detail of the examination; how to prepare for it, why it is required, and how to attain certification in spite of disability or illness. Far more than a guide to passing the test, this book provides advice on subjects from altitude hypoxia, avoiding jet lag, drug screening programs, to flying after scuba diving. For more information see: www.actechbooks.com/health_for_pilots.htm $24.95 take 10% off today* ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- take 10% off today* Through 1/25/08 when you get these or anything else we will deduct 10% from your entire order. To get the discount just write special till 1-25-08 in the coupon box on the checkout page. The discount will be automatically applied. Or, if you prefer to order by phone, just tell us you want the discount when you call. Thank you for your business, Andy Gold Builder's Bookstore 800 780-4115 www.buildersbooks.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 2008
From: jason Parker <litesellme(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: fuel injection for your 912 or 914
I have seen may people attempt to do fuel injection, but at www.experimentalfuelinjection.com , we do it right. First off, fuel injection requires 8-9amps no matter who is making the set up. With this in mind, the only way to properly run fuel injection is with a 55 amp external alt. Our set ups are simply the best. We offer 4 different configurations of 912's and 5 different configurations of 914's. From Intercooled direct port fuel injection, to truly redundant set ups on fuel and ignition, we have it all. Regards Jason www.experimentalfuelinjection.com 661 428-1850 Andy Gold wrote: Painting Your RV? Here are some new titles, (and a couple old ones) that will help you design and do the job How To Paint Your Own Aircraft by Ron Alexander An easy to follow book on aircraft painting techniques by Sport-air Workshops and EAA. This book discusses materials, equipment, preparation, spraying, detailing, and safety concerns. It is simple but clearly written, and should be sufficient to prepare you for the task of painting a new aircraft. For more information see: www.actechbooks.com/paint_your_own_airplane.htm $19.95 book or e-Book take 10% off today* --------------------------------- Automotive Paint Handbook by John Pfanstiehl Yes, I know - there is a car on the cover. But it is still the absolute best book we've found covering the high tech polyurethane and 2 part epoxy paints and primers that are commonly used on aircraft such as Imron, ChromaSystem, and VariPrime The use of modern HVLP guns are completely covered along with compressors, filters and health protection devices... It covers preparing your work, spraying, resolving problems, making repairs, custom techniques, cleaning, paint inspection, etc. For more information see: www.actechbooks.com/automotive_paint_handbook.htm $18.95 take 10% off today* --------------------------------- Aircraft Painting 101- DVD by Sam James A Pixar production it is not. But for 2 hours of excellent and detailed information specifically on painting an RV (an RV-4) with Dupont Veriprime and Chromabase systems this is it. Sam James takes you through the complete process of working an RV fuel tank, wheel pant, and detailed design on a horizontal stabilizer. $25.95 take 10% off today* --------------------------------- How to Pinstripe All you need to know about mastering the form of pinstriping. We have all seen some amazing and unique paint schemes on RVs and other custom aircraft. If you too would consider such a challenge, here's how its done. For more information see: www.actechbooks.com/how_to_pinstripe.htm $25.95 take 10% off today* --------------------------------- How To Airbrush by JoAnn Bortles All you need to know about mastering the techniques of airbrushing. We have all seen some amazing and unique paint schemes on RVs and other custom aircraft. If you too would consider such a challenge, here's how its done. Completely illustrated with step by step color photography throughout. For more information see: www.actechbooks.com/airbrush_painting_techniques.htm $24.95 take 10% off today* --------------------------------- Aircraft Noseart by Jeffery Ethell Looking for some unique ideas with your newly discovered pinstriping and airbrush skills? From pin-ups, to shark mouths, to Popeye, this book is full of high quality color photos to inspire any military orientated custom paint scheme. For more information see: www.actechbooks.com/aircraft_nose_art.htm $24.95 (hard cover) take 10% off today* --------------------------------- also new: Health For Pilots by Paul Gahlinger MD A Complete guide to FAA medical certification and self care. This book explains every detail of the examination; how to prepare for it, why it is required, and how to attain certification in spite of disability or illness. Far more than a guide to passing the test, this book provides advice on subjects from altitude hypoxia, avoiding jet lag, drug screening programs, to flying after scuba diving. For more information see: www.actechbooks.com/health_for_pilots.htm $24.95 take 10% off today* --------------------------------- take 10% off today* Through 1/25/08 when you get these or anything else we will deduct 10% from your entire order. To get the discount just write special till 1-25-08 in the coupon box on the checkout page. The discount will be automatically applied. Or, if you prefer to order by phone, just tell us you want the discount when you call. Thank you for your business, Andy Gold Builder's Bookstore 800 780-4115 www.buildersbooks.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Controlling defrost fans
Date: Jan 17, 2008
Is there any chance of getting a picture? What a great idea. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Ensing Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 10:15 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Controlling defrost fans Ralph, I have a pair of 4" fans mounted in the top skin forward of the instrument panel to blow on W/S of my 6A slider. No need for speed control. Maybe the larger fans turn lower RPM. They are similar to cooling fans in a computer tower. BTW I use them in the summer to pull hot air from behind the panel and help cool the avionics. Dale ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 9:35 AM Subject: RV-List: Controlling defrost fans > > I have a pair of 1.5"x1.5" fans (Radio Shack 273-240) mounted forward of > the instrument panel on my 6A slider - think about the intersection of the > support bulkhead parallel and forward of the instrument panel and the ribs > that point aft that support the top of the instrument panel in three > places. > > I am wondering if a straight on-off switch is sufficient or should I put > in a rheostat to control the fan speed? KISS would dictate that a simple > on-off switch would work - but has anyone out there wished for a > half-speed? > > Here on the DelMarVa peninsula - I'm certain that I'll need it on a > regular basis > > Thanks, > Ralph > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 2008
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
Subject: New shipping instructions for nose gear mod
http://www.langair.com/vanssb.htm -- ---- Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my flying RV7A web page: http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Controlling defrost fans
I think ON/OFF is fine, but if you want to control it try a PWM (pulse width modulation) control "rheostat". http://solorb.com/elect/pwm/pwm1/ There are hobby kit's you can buy with all the parts and board, as well (google it). George >From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> >Subject: RV-List: Controlling defrost fans >I am wondering if a straight on-off switch is sufficient or should >I put in a rheostat to control the fan speed? KISS would dictate >that a simple on-off switch would work - but has anyone out >there wished for a half-speed? Thanks, Ralph --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Controlling defrost fans (PS)
Here I looked up some ideas: http://solorb.com/elect/pwm/pwm1/ http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/ck1400.htm http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/k166.htm http://www.bakatronics.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=581 I think ON-OFF switch is fine. You will probably NEED all the air you can get from a little FAN. I suggest you get LARGER fans than what you have. You will get very little air from those tiny fans. Have you felt the air off of them? You will likely get a small 1.5" spot above the fan clear and that is it. That is not too great of a vis. I am debating putting any fan in at all. My back up is a cig lighter portable ceramic heater/fan window defroster heater and just throw it up there on the glare shield on the ground to get it defrosted. I might put some vents to allow the cabin heat & radio heat to rise up with natural convection. I'm thinking weight. I am not saying don't do it but I would get much bigger fans, and as far as speed control? I'd go with ON/OFF. You can add speed control later if you need or want it. George --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Subject: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation
For those of you who asked, I've added the complete prodedure for installing the wingtips with hinges to my ExperCraft website- go to: _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=23961_ (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=23961) Click Next Entry>> at the top of each page for the rest of it. There are 27 more pages, so if you want to slog through the whole thing, get comfy... 8-) Thanks again to Rob Riggen for making ExperCraft the excellent service it is! Find it here: _http://www.expercraft.com/_ (http://www.expercraft.com/) and my homepage: _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/_ (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/) >From The PossumWorks in TN, Mark Phillips, RV-6A "Mojo" **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
I just replaced my APRS tracker in the RV with a more powerful 8 watt model, as the 300 mW unit was giving erratic results. If everything is programmed and calibrated properly, and if I can get the wheels to roll through the snow on the turf strip, I will be conducting a trial flight is a few minutes to check it out. The following link should enable tracking in real time. If all goes well, the last recorded flight track from November will be replaced with current data. http://aprs.fi/?call=N30yd&mt=m&z=11&timerange=21600 Regards, -Stormy N30YD / N4DLN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net>
Subject: Re: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
I seeeeee you!! ;) Scott N0EDV http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ Gotta Fly or Gonna Die Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) Bill Boyd wrote: > I just replaced my APRS tracker in the RV with a more powerful 8 watt > model, as the 300 mW unit was giving erratic results. If everything > is programmed and calibrated properly, and if I can get the wheels to > roll through the snow on the turf strip, I will be conducting a trial > flight is a few minutes to check it out. > > The following link should enable tracking in real time. If all goes > well, the last recorded flight track from November will be replaced > with current data. > http://aprs.fi/?call=N30yd&mt=m&z=11&timerange=21600 > <http://aprs.fi/?call=N30yd&mt=m&z=11&timerange=21600> > > > Regards, > > -Stormy N30YD / N4DLN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
Replying to my own post, here- too many things wrong with the flight so I stood down. Garmin 296 wouldn't lock onto more than 2 birds, and thought the local time was 11:36 AM, so it acts like the internal battery is going south (flown as recently as last week) - but the unit powers up fine on the bench using just its own battery, as I write this. Directional control on the snow was awful, even though there was lots of grass showing - just too much cover. I think I packed the wheel pants with snow in short order. I couldn't even hold brakes against a 1600 rpm run-up without sliding. When I was about 50% beyond my normal rotation point and still hadn't broken ground, weaving like a taildragger pilot in a crosswind (gulp!) I balked the takeoff. Barely had enough braking action to execute a 180 within the width of the strip. This is disappointing, since I wanted to fly tonight and wanted to demo the APRS, but I guess I get an "A" for decision making. Even if I had had hull coverage I don't think I could have felt good about completing that takeoff, knowing I'd have to return to that same runway in a few minutes and try to stop safely, possibly with frozen brake pads. The weather is supposed to turn here tonight, so that was probably my one window to fly for the next week or two. Snow expected again tomorrow and a deep freeze on top of that. Should stay mushy out there till about April even if the snow dissipates. Some days are like that. I'll post a heads-up if /when I try the airborne APRS again. Meanwhile I'm going to have harsh words with my 296. -Stormy On Jan 18, 2008 4:37 PM, Bill Boyd wrote: > I just replaced my APRS tracker in the RV with a more powerful 8 watt > model, as the 300 mW unit was giving erratic results. If everything is > programmed and calibrated properly, and if I can get the wheels to roll > through the snow on the turf strip, I will be conducting a trial flight is a > few minutes to check it out. > > The following link should enable tracking in real time. If all goes well, > the last recorded flight track from November will be replaced with current > data. http://aprs.fi/?call=N30yd&mt=m&z=11&timerange=21600 > > > Regards, > > -Stormy N30YD / N4DLN > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
You are looking at data from November 3rd, unfortunately :-) -Stormy On Jan 18, 2008 4:57 PM, Scott wrote: > > I seeeeee you!! ;) > > Scott N0EDV > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) > > > Bill Boyd wrote: > > > I just replaced my APRS tracker in the RV with a more powerful 8 watt > > model, as the 300 mW unit was giving erratic results. If everything > > is programmed and calibrated properly, and if I can get the wheels to > > roll through the snow on the turf strip, I will be conducting a trial > > flight is a few minutes to check it out. > > > > The following link should enable tracking in real time. If all goes > > well, the last recorded flight track from November will be replaced > > with current data. > > http://aprs.fi/?call=N30yd&mt=m&z=11&timerange=21600 > > <http://aprs.fi/?call=N30yd&mt=m&z=11&timerange=21600> > > > > > > Regards, > > > > -Stormy N30YD / N4DLN > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
Mmmmm, I clicked on the link and didn't see anything other than the map of the Lexington area...what am I missing? Chuck Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 4:57 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT I seeeeee you!! ;) Scott N0EDV http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ Gotta Fly or Gonna Die Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) Bill Boyd wrote: > I just replaced my APRS tracker in the RV with a more powerful 8 watt > model, as the 300 mW unit was giving erratic results. If everything > is programmed and calibrated properly, and if I can get the wheels to > roll through the snow on the turf strip, I will be conducting a trial > flight is a few minutes to check it out. > > The following link should enable tracking in real time. If all goes > well, the last recorded flight track from November will be replaced > with current data. > http://aprs.fi/?call=N30yd&mt=m&z=11&timerange=21600 > <http://aprs.fi/?call=N30yd&mt=m&z=11&timerange=21600> > > > Regards, > > -Stormy N30YD / N4DLN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
Not sure, Chuck. Java scripts, maybe?? I just clicked on it and it displays a beautiful depiction of my figure-8 over Lexington. Unfortunately, that's not today's flight, which, as I posted a while ago, was aborted due to snow pack on the runway and lack of tundra tires on the RV :-) The 296 straightened itself out about 5 minutes after I lied to it and told it that I had stored it without batteries. It now shows correct local time and position. Pretty finicky for a $1400 unit that wants to moonlight as a doorstop. If it continues to misbehave I'm going to stop feeding it electrons and make it come to heel. -Stormy On Jan 18, 2008 5:18 PM, Chuck Jensen wrote: > > Mmmmm, I clicked on the link and didn't see anything other than the map of > the Lexington area...what am I missing? > > Chuck Jensen > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott > Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 4:57 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT > > > I seeeeee you!! ;) > > Scott N0EDV > http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ > Gotta Fly or Gonna Die > Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) > > > Bill Boyd wrote: > > > I just replaced my APRS tracker in the RV with a more powerful 8 watt > > model, as the 300 mW unit was giving erratic results. If everything > > is programmed and calibrated properly, and if I can get the wheels to > > roll through the snow on the turf strip, I will be conducting a trial > > flight is a few minutes to check it out. > > > > The following link should enable tracking in real time. If all goes > > well, the last recorded flight track from November will be replaced > > with current data. > > http://aprs.fi/?call=N30yd&mt=m&z=11&timerange=21600 > > <http://aprs.fi/?call=N30yd&mt=m&z=11&timerange=21600> > > > > > > Regards, > > > > -Stormy N30YD / N4DLN > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
On 13:37 2008-01-18 "Bill Boyd" wrote: > I just replaced my APRS tracker in the RV with a more powerful 8 watt > model, as the 300 mW unit was giving erratic results. If everything > is programmed and calibrated properly, and if I can get the wheels to > roll through the snow on the turf strip, I will be conducting a trial > flight is a few minutes to check it out. That's pretty neat. So what's the coverage like? I think someone's previous post said that the range can be 100 miles, and the repeaters would take it from there? How dense are the repeaters? The main benefits of the SPOT system right now are the GPS coverage (effectively unbroken coverage across North America), and Satellite Phone uplink (ditto). -Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: rsipp(at)earthlink.net
Subject: Custom tank builder
Does anyone recall the name and contact information for the gentleman that builds and repairs fuel tanks? Thanks Dick Sipp ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 18, 2008
I hope your 296 doesn't keep going south like my 396. My 396 loses it's location almost every weekend - for sure if I miss a weekend flying. It takes 5-10 min to find itself if I tell it to use a new location - but at least it's still useable. I've talked to Garmin tech support a couple times and their drill is to get the latest software update and to purge the satellite almanac. Power up while holding the zoom out key for ~12 sec will flush the almanac (at least for the 396) and then leave it on in the open for 30-45 minutes to download a new one. That has not cured my problem so they tell me the next step is to send it in for the $350 flat rate repair... aaarrggghhh! Regards, Greg Young _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Boyd Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 4:13 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT Replying to my own post, here- too many things wrong with the flight so I stood down. Garmin 296 wouldn't lock onto more than 2 birds, and thought the local time was 11:36 AM, so it acts like the internal battery is going south (flown as recently as last week) - but the unit powers up fine on the bench using just its own battery, as I write this. Directional control on the snow was awful, even though there was lots of grass showing - just too much cover. I think I packed the wheel pants with snow in short order. I couldn't even hold brakes against a 1600 rpm run-up without sliding. When I was about 50% beyond my normal rotation point and still hadn't broken ground, weaving like a taildragger pilot in a crosswind (gulp!) I balked the takeoff. Barely had enough braking action to execute a 180 within the width of the strip. This is disappointing, since I wanted to fly tonight and wanted to demo the APRS, but I guess I get an "A" for decision making. Even if I had had hull coverage I don't think I could have felt good about completing that takeoff, knowing I'd have to return to that same runway in a few minutes and try to stop safely, possibly with frozen brake pads. The weather is supposed to turn here tonight, so that was probably my one window to fly for the next week or two. Snow expected again tomorrow and a deep freeze on top of that. Should stay mushy out there till about April even if the snow dissipates. Some days are like that. I'll post a heads-up if /when I try the airborne APRS again. Meanwhile I'm going to have harsh words with my 296. -Stormy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Custom tank builder
Hi gang While we're on the subject of tanks... Mine has leaked from day one. Eight years ago. Every so often, like at annual time, I clean off the offending area and the A&P smears some goo on the leaking area. Well, its time to take the tank off and remove the leaking plate and maybe replace the sending unit. I have never done this. Is this a big job? Can any of you give me some suggestions? Like what to watch out for. Thank in advance. - Louis I Willig 1640 Oakwood Dr. Penn Valley, PA 19072 610 668-4964 RV-4, N180PF, 650 hrs. 190HP IO-360, C/S prop ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Custom tank builder
Evan Johnson? www.evansaviationproducts.com Dave Nellis 7A wings in Mid Feb. --- rsipp(at)earthlink.net wrote: > > > > Does anyone recall the name and contact information > for the gentleman that builds and repairs fuel > tanks? > > Thanks > > Dick Sipp > > > browse > Un/Subscription, > FAQ, > > Forums! > > Admin. > > > > > Looking for last minute shopping deals? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 18, 2008
I hope your 296 doesn't keep going south like my 396. My 396 loses it's location almost every weekend - for sure if I miss a weekend flying. It takes 5-10 min to find itself if I tell it to use a new location - but at least it's still useable. I've talked to Garmin tech support a couple times and their drill is to get the latest software update and to purge the satellite almanac. Power up while holding the zoom out key for ~12 sec will flush the almanac (at least for the 396) and then leave it on in the open for 30-45 minutes to download a new one. That has not cured my problem so they tell me the next step is to send it in for the $350 flat rate repair... aaarrggghhh! Bummer. One of our 430s had the same issue after we got it back from sending it in for the WAAS upgrade and it had to go back to the factory. Fortunately it was under warranty. Any chance the internal battery is losing its steam? Does anybody know if the battery pack contributes to holding memory while the power is off? DaveB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Subject: Re: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation
Mark, This is really useful and well documented. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience. I will let you know how mine come out. Regards, Michael Wynn RV 8 San Ramon In a message dated 1/18/2008 11:44:54 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, Fiveonepw(at)aol.com writes: For those of you who asked, I've added the complete prodedure for installing the wingtips with hinges to my ExperCraft website- go to: _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=23961_ (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=23961) Click Next Entry>> at the top of each page for the rest of it. There are 27 more pages, so if you want to slog through the whole thing, get comfy... 8-) Thanks again to Rob Riggen for making ExperCraft the excellent service it is! Find it here: _http://www.expercraft.com/_ (http://www.expercraft.com/) and my homepage: _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/_ (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/) >From The PossumWorks in TN, Mark Phillips, RV-6A "Mojo" ____________________________________ Start the year off right. _Easy ways to stay in shape_ (http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489) in the new year. (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
The repeater infrastructure is fairly good all across the country, I'm told. For aerial use, the repeater coverage is not really an issue because the line of sight is so good (in the absence of mountainous terrain obstructions.) All we need for internet tracking is to have the position packet make it to a single I-Gate station that posts it to the APRS web server. That's much simpler in many ways than trying to send a position report from one terrestrial station to another by a series of digipeater hops. I use a path of WIDE2-2 from the plane, which gives me 2 hops before the message dies. If any of the stations involved in either hop is an I-Gate, I'm golden - my packet is stored on the server from then on, to be recalled by whatever viewer one might use - even months later. The drawback to APRS is that there is no closed loop or acknowledgment of the packet sent back to the originating station, so one must simply hope that some of the blind (unproto) packets have gotten through. Make sense? I think the only real advantage that APRS might have over SPOT is the cost (free once you have the tracker). Well, fully implemented APRS, which I don't have and don't plan to set up in the plane, would allow two-way text messaging - I think the SPOT only allows one way. -Stormy On Jan 18, 2008 6:17 PM, Rob Prior wrote: > > On 13:37 2008-01-18 "Bill Boyd" wrote: > > I just replaced my APRS tracker in the RV with a more powerful 8 watt > > model, as the 300 mW unit was giving erratic results. If everything > > is programmed and calibrated properly, and if I can get the wheels to > > roll through the snow on the turf strip, I will be conducting a trial > > flight is a few minutes to check it out. > > That's pretty neat. > > So what's the coverage like? I think someone's previous post said that > the > range can be 100 miles, and the repeaters would take it from there? How > dense are the repeaters? > > The main benefits of the SPOT system right now are the GPS coverage > (effectively unbroken coverage across North America), and Satellite Phone > uplink (ditto). > > -Rob > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
Subject: Re: Custom tank builder
From: Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
I have done this a couple times. Carefully remove the tank cover with a wide blade putty knife. Remove sending unit. Clean all mating areas very well with lacquer thinner. Assuming the plate is not went or warped, get a new cork gasket from Van's. Get a new gasket for the new sending unit also. Be sure everything is very clean (PPG wax and greaser remover is good. Also Dupont 3812S reducer or Coleman Lantern Fuel). Seal all mating surfaces with PermaTex Aviation Form a Gasket (get it at your auto supply store). Use all new cork gaskets. Remount the sending unit and the larger tank cover using socket cap screws and washer. DO not over tighten them.. Just snug them up. Let the tanks sit for a couple days before reinstallation. I have never had a leak using Aviation Form A Gasket. Doug Weiler RV-4, N722DW, 450 hours On 1/18/08 5:39 PM, "Louis Willig" wrote: > > Hi gang > > While we're on the subject of tanks... > > Mine has leaked from day one. Eight years ago. Every so often, like > at annual time, I clean off the offending area and the A&P smears > some goo on the leaking area. Well, its time to take the tank off and > remove the leaking plate and maybe replace the sending unit. I have > never done this. Is this a big job? Can any of you give me some > suggestions? Like what to watch out for. > > Thank in advance. > > > > - > Louis I Willig > 1640 Oakwood Dr. > Penn Valley, PA 19072 > 610 668-4964 > RV-4, N180PF, 650 hrs. > 190HP IO-360, C/S prop > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: Re: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
On 19:07 2008-01-18 "Bill Boyd" wrote: > I think the only real advantage that APRS might have over SPOT is the > cost (free once you have the tracker). Well, fully implemented APRS, > which I don't have and don't plan to set up in the plane, would allow > two-way text messaging - I think the SPOT only allows one way. That's correct, and it's the one minor downside to the SPOT system. Messaging is one-way, and you have only three messages you can send ("I'm OK", "Friends, I need help", and "Send the cavalry", effectively). The major downside, as you point out, is the yearly cost. What's the weight of the hardware necessary for APRS? How easy would it be to remove from a downed plane if you needed to and/or decided to leave the crash site? One benefit of SPOT over ELT is that if you need to move, you can bring the beacon with you and trackers will know that you've moved and know where you are. -Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 18, 2008
From: John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Subject: Re: Custom tank builder
Really dumb question... Do you take the tanks off of the wing first or do it in place? John Morgensen Doug Weiler wrote: > > I have done this a couple times. > > Carefully remove the tank cover with a wide blade putty knife. Remove > sending unit. > > Clean all mating areas very well with lacquer thinner. > > Assuming the plate is not went or warped, get a new cork gasket from Van's. > Get a new gasket for the new sending unit also. > > Be sure everything is very clean (PPG wax and greaser remover is good. Also > Dupont 3812S reducer or Coleman Lantern Fuel). > > Seal all mating surfaces with PermaTex Aviation Form a Gasket (get it at > your auto supply store). Use all new cork gaskets. > > Remount the sending unit and the larger tank cover using socket cap screws > and washer. DO not over tighten them.. Just snug them up. > > Let the tanks sit for a couple days before reinstallation. > > I have never had a leak using Aviation Form A Gasket. > > Doug Weiler > RV-4, N722DW, 450 hours > > > On 1/18/08 5:39 PM, "Louis Willig" wrote: > > >> >> Hi gang >> >> While we're on the subject of tanks... >> >> Mine has leaked from day one. Eight years ago. Every so often, like >> at annual time, I clean off the offending area and the A&P smears >> some goo on the leaking area. Well, its time to take the tank off and >> remove the leaking plate and maybe replace the sending unit. I have >> never done this. Is this a big job? Can any of you give me some >> suggestions? Like what to watch out for. >> >> Thank in advance. >> >> >> >> - >> Louis I Willig >> 1640 Oakwood Dr. >> Penn Valley, PA 19072 >> 610 668-4964 >> RV-4, N180PF, 650 hrs. >> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net>
Subject: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Very well done write-up Mark. It must have taken a week to write "hunt and peck" style. ;) I really think you should fly down to Georgia and do my wingtips. This would allow you to further refine your technique. Heck, I'll even slap some road kill on the grill and feed ya! How 'bout it? Bret Smith RV-9A N16BL Blue Ridge, Ga www.FlightInnovations.com <http://www.flightinnovations.com/> _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fiveonepw(at)aol.com Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 2:38 PM Subject: RV-List: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation For those of you who asked, I've added the complete prodedure for installing the wingtips with hinges to my ExperCraft website- go to: http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry <http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=23961> &log_id=23961 Click Next Entry>> at the top of each page for the rest of it. There are 27 more pages, so if you want to slog through the whole thing, get comfy... 8-) Thanks again to Rob Riggen for making ExperCraft the excellent service it is! Find it here: http://www.expercraft.com/ and my homepage: http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/ >From The PossumWorks in TN, Mark Phillips, RV-6A "Mojo" _____ Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape <http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489> in the new year. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: rivet hardening
Date: Jan 19, 2008
HI guys and gals- This is not absolutely purely RV related, so purists please delete now! I was talking to a friend a while back about riveting. He is building one of Monett's products, which is built almost exclusively with pulled rivets. The only solid rivets are the big ones in the spar center section. What my friend learned at a Monett factory seminar is to put the factory head in a rivet set on an anvil and smack the shop end with a hammer. I believe they were to use some sort of a striking bar or block to transfer the blow, but I don't recall that detail perfectly at this point. Anyway, what my friend was told at this seminar is that one of the various reasons for doing this is that this technique will properly set the rivet in fewer blows than using a rivet gun, and that this in turn would lessen the work hardening of the rivet. This is not an intuitive conclusion for me, and I was wondering what the metallurgists / professional metal workers / other smart folks out there think? As a morsel for those purists who haven't already deleted, if this is a valid point, perhaps we could make ever so slightly tougher structures by using higher gun pressures while riveting. Thoughts? BTW, I ZnCrO3 most things, glued my canopy, have a constant speed, IFR panel, and the little wheel is in the back... ;-) glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Thanks for the excellent info! Good job! >For those of you who asked, I've added the complete prodedure for installing >the wingtips with hinges to my ExperCraft website- go to: glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: darnpilot(at)aol.com
My 496 has started to do the same thing.? Internal battery is fine, at least it shows full and will run on battery power.? I have it panel mounted (AirGizmo) and hooked up to ships power.? Based on the log it seems to stop the internal clock a day or two after the last shut-down.? Upon restart, it will not lock the satellites as it thinks it is a prior date.? I do not think it could be the almanac, it has something to do with the internal clock shutting down.? The almanac is useless if the GPS does not know what the actual date.? My shop just checked it out and loaded the latest update (that's what they think it is).? They also purged a lot of the logs to free up memory, which did sound like a good idea.? If the date is wrong the next time I fly, and based upon the reports I'm hearing, then I think (we) Garmin has a software/hardware issue that they need to address. Anyone else having similar problems?? Jeff -----Original Message----- From: David Burton <d-burton(at)comcast.net> Sent: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 7:49 pm Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location ? I hope your 296 doesn't keep going south like my 396. My 396 loses it's location almost every weekend - for sure if?I miss a weekend flying. It takes 5-10 min to find itself if I tell it to use a new location - but at least it's still useable. I've talked to Garmin tech support a couple times and their drill is to get the latest software update and to purge the satellite almanac. Power up while holding the zoom out key for ~12 sec will flush the almanac (at least for the 396) and then leave it on in the open for 30-45 minutes to download a new one. That has not cured my problem so they tell me the next step is to send it in for the $350 flat rate repair... aaarrggghhh! ? Bummer.? One of our 430s had the same issue after we got it back from sending it in for the WAAS upgrade and it had to go back to the factory.? Fortunately it was under warranty.? Any chance the internal battery is losing its steam?? Does anybody know if the battery pack contributes to holding memory while the power is off? ? DaveB ? ? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 19, 2008
I haven't flown much over the last few years and my Garmin 296 has proably only been on about a dozen flight altogether. The last one was last July. i fired it up the other day and it thought it was September. However as soon as it acquired satellites, the date was adjusted. Is there any possibility there's an antenna problem and not a battery problem? _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of darnpilot(at)aol.com Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 7:37 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location My 496 has started to do the same thing. Internal battery is fine, at least it shows full and will run on battery power. I have it panel mounted (AirGizmo) and hooked up to ships power. Based on the log it seems to stop the internal clock a day or two after the last shut-down. Upon restart, it will not lock the satellites as it thinks it is a prior date. I do not think it could be the almanac, it has something to do with the internal clock shutting down. The almanac is useless if the GPS does not know what the actual date. My shop just checked it out and loaded the latest update (that's what they think it is). They also purged a lot of the logs to free up memory, which did sound like a good idea. If the date is wrong the next time I fly, and based upon the reports I'm hearing, then I think (we) Garmin has a software/hardware issue that they need to address. Anyone else having similar problems? Jeff -----Original Message----- From: David Burton <d-burton(at)comcast.net> Sent: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 7:49 pm Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location I hope your 296 doesn't keep going south like my 396. My 396 loses it's location almost every weekend - for sure if I miss a weekend flying. It takes 5-10 min to find itself if I tell it to use a new location - but at least it's still useable. I've talked to Garmin tech support a couple times and their drill is to get the latest software update and to purge the satellite almanac. Power up while holding the zoom out key for ~12 sec will flush the almanac (at least for the 396) and then leave it on in the open for 30-45 minutes to download a new one. That has not cured my problem so they tell me the next step is to send it in for the $350 flat rate repair... aaarrggghhh! Bummer. One of our 430s had the same issue after we got it back from sending it in for the WAAS upgrade and it had to go back to the factory. Fortunately it was under warranty. Any chance the internal battery is losing its steam? Does anybody know if the battery pack contributes to holding memory while the power is off? DaveB _____ <http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=ao lcmp00050000000003> ! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Custom tank builder
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Removing the access plates, senders, etc., is a fairly straightforward job with the tanks still attached. One thing to consider is that many builders have had problems with the access plates leaking if the plates were installed with anything other than proseal. On mine, I initially used proseal and cork gaskets (had to make 'em, Van's didn't supply them back in the day), and they held up well until I destroyed 'em complying with the fuel pick-up SB. When I replaced the covers, I did not use gaskets and just resealed with proseal. My personal belief is that a proseal only installation is preferred. Kyle Boatright 2001 RV-6 ----- Original Message ----- From: John Morgensen To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 11:34 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Custom tank builder Really dumb question... Do you take the tanks off of the wing first or do it in place? John Morgensen Doug Weiler wrote: I have done this a couple times. Carefully remove the tank cover with a wide blade putty knife. Remove sending unit. Clean all mating areas very well with lacquer thinner. Assuming the plate is not went or warped, get a new cork gasket from Van's. Get a new gasket for the new sending unit also. Be sure everything is very clean (PPG wax and greaser remover is good. Also Dupont 3812S reducer or Coleman Lantern Fuel). Seal all mating surfaces with PermaTex Aviation Form a Gasket (get it at your auto supply store). Use all new cork gaskets. Remount the sending unit and the larger tank cover using socket cap screws and washer. DO not over tighten them.. Just snug them up. Let the tanks sit for a couple days before reinstallation. I have never had a leak using Aviation Form A Gasket. Doug Weiler RV-4, N722DW, 450 hours On 1/18/08 5:39 PM, "Louis Willig" wrote: Hi gang While we're on the subject of tanks... Mine has leaked from day one. Eight years ago. Every so often, like at annual time, I clean off the offending area and the A&P smears some goo on the leaking area. Well, its time to take the tank off and remove the leaking plate and maybe replace the sending unit. I have never done this. Is this a big job? Can any of you give me some suggestions? Like what to watch out for. Thank in advance. - Louis I Willig 1640 Oakwood Dr. Penn Valley, PA 19072 610 668-4964 RV-4, N180PF, 650 hrs. 190HP IO-360, C/S prop ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: darnpilot(at)aol.com
I do not see how it could be the antenna.? In my case (G496), it is looking for the satellites just fine, but it takes a long time because its looking for them in the wrong parts of the sky because it thinks the date & time are something they are not.? Once it gets an update?to the internal clock (from one of the satellites it eventually finds) it can reference the almanac and then find the correct constellations of satellites.? After that is pretty quickly get back to square one and starts working...at least until it is shutdown again for more than a few days. I started noticing this behavior back in July.? Any others? Jeff -----Original Message----- From: Bob Collins <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> Sent: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 8:58 am Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location I haven't flown much over the last few years and my Garmin 296 has proably only been on about a dozen flight altogether. The last one was last July. i fired it up the other day and it thought it was September. However as soon as it acquired satellites, the date was adjusted. ? Is there any possibility there's an antenna problem and not a battery problem? From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of darnpilot(at)aol.com Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 7:37 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location My 496 has started to do the same thing.? Internal battery is fine, at least it shows full and will run on battery power.? I have it panel mounted (AirGizmo) and hooked up to ships power.? Based on the log it seems to stop the internal clock a day or two after the last shut-down.? Upon restart, it will not lock the satellites as it thinks it is a prior date.? I do not think it could be the almanac, it has something to do with the internal clock shutting down.? The almanac is useless if the GPS does not know what the actual date.? My shop just checked it out and loaded the latest update (that's what they think it is).? They also purged a lot of the logs to free up memory, which did sound like a good idea.? If the date is wrong the next time I fly, and based upon the reports I'm hearing, then I think (we) Garmin has a software/hardware issue that they need to address. Anyone else having similar problems?? Jeff -----Original Message----- From: David Burton <d-burton(at)comcast.net> Sent: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 7:49 pm Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location ? I hope your 296 doesn't keep going south like my 396. My 396 loses it's location almost every weekend - for sure if?I miss a weekend flying. It takes 5-10 min to find itself if I tell it to use a new location - but at least it's still useable. I've talked to Garmin tech support a couple times and their drill is to get the latest software update and to purge the satellite almanac. Power up while holding the zoom out key for ~12 sec will flush the almanac (at least for the 396) and then leave it on in the open for 30-45 minutes to download a new one. That has not cured my problem so they tell me the next step is to send it in for the $350 flat rate repair... aaarrggghhh! ? Bummer.? One of our 430s had the same issue after we got it back from sending it in for the WAAS upgrade and it had to go back to the factory.? Fortunately it was under warranty.? Any chance the internal battery is losing its steam?? Does anybody know if the battery pack contributes to holding memory while the power is off? ? DaveB ? ? href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Nope. Antennas are not the problem- the unit sees the birds fine- it's just looking for all the wrong ones at first, based on the almanac and the faulty date/time. I'm baffled how a device that depends on ultra-precise time measurements to do its job can't keep time as well as a five dollar Chinese wristwatch when it's in standby mode. Garmin does seem to have an issue, here. -Stormy On Jan 19, 2008 8:58 AM, Bob Collins wrote: > I haven't flown much over the last few years and my Garmin 296 has > proably only been on about a dozen flight altogether. The last one was last > July. i fired it up the other day and it thought it was September. However > as soon as it acquired satellites, the date was adjusted. > > Is there any possibility there's an antenna problem and not a battery > problem? > > ------------------------------ > *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *darnpilot(at)aol.com > *Sent:* Saturday, January 19, 2008 7:37 AM > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location > > My 496 has started to do the same thing. Internal battery is fine, at > least it shows full and will run on battery power. I have it panel mounted > (AirGizmo) and hooked up to ships power. Based on the log it seems to stop > the internal clock a day or two after the last shut-down. Upon restart, it > will not lock the satellites as it thinks it is a prior date. I do not > think it could be the almanac, it has something to do with the internal > clock shutting down. The almanac is useless if the GPS does not know what > the actual date. > > My shop just checked it out and loaded the latest update (that's what they > think it is). They also purged a lot of the logs to free up memory, which > did sound like a good idea. If the date is wrong the next time I fly, and > based upon the reports I'm hearing, then I think (we) Garmin has a > software/hardware issue that they need to address. > > Anyone else having similar problems? > > Jeff > > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Burton <d-burton(at)comcast.net> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 7:49 pm > Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location > > > I hope your 296 doesn't keep going south like my 396. My 396 loses it's > location almost every weekend - for sure if I miss a weekend flying. It > takes 5-10 min to find itself if I tell it to use a new location - but at > least it's still useable. I've talked to Garmin tech support a couple times > and their drill is to get the latest software update and to purge the > satellite almanac. Power up while holding the zoom out key for ~12 sec will > flush the almanac (at least for the 396) and then leave it on in the open > for 30-45 minutes to download a new one. That has not cured my problem so > they tell me the next step is to send it in for the $350 flat rate repair... > aaarrggghhh! > > Bummer. One of our 430s had the same issue after we got it back from > sending it in for the WAAS upgrade and it had to go back to the factory. > Fortunately it was under warranty. Any chance the internal battery is > losing its steam? Does anybody know if the battery pack contributes to > holding memory while the power is off? > > DaveB > > > * * > > * > > * > > ------------------------------ > ! > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c* > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: "J Riffel" <riffeljl(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
You might want to see if one of your nav/coms is interferring. My Com2 interfers w/ my handheld when it's on a certain freq range (around 115.+-) You might try this. When your GPS looses position, try watching your GPS signal strength page as you turn each avionics unit. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
I'm guessing the APRS hardware I am using (gps and 8 watt tracker, with its homemade circuit-board (copperclad) enclosure) wieghs about 3 ounces or so. Without an external battery, there is no point in removing it from the ship, and I have not made provisions for that. If your crash site is too remote to allow people to see the wreckage from town, it may also be too remote to hit a digipeater from the ground with low power ;-) there is no way to tell but to try it, and with transmit-only hardware, no way to know if you are being digipeated. It certainly has its limits. -Stormy On Jan 18, 2008 11:52 PM, Rob Prior wrote: > > On 19:07 2008-01-18 "Bill Boyd" wrote: > > I think the only real advantage that APRS might have over SPOT is the > > cost (free once you have the tracker). Well, fully implemented APRS, > > which I don't have and don't plan to set up in the plane, would allow > > two-way text messaging - I think the SPOT only allows one way. > > That's correct, and it's the one minor downside to the SPOT system. > Messaging is one-way, and you have only three messages you can send ("I'm > OK", "Friends, I need help", and "Send the cavalry", effectively). The > major downside, as you point out, is the yearly cost. > > What's the weight of the hardware necessary for APRS? How easy would it > be > to remove from a downed plane if you needed to and/or decided to leave the > crash site? One benefit of SPOT over ELT is that if you need to move, you > can bring the beacon with you and trackers will know that you've moved and > know where you are. > > -Rob > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: darnpilot(at)aol.com
Not likely.? My installation worked perfectly up until July of this year (no changes were made).? Since July, it has frozen the time shortly (within a day or two) after shutdown.? There is something going on internally...software or hardware.? Since I do not seem to be the only one, I must conclude that this is not an uncommon occurrence and there is a larger problem that Garmin has to address. Jeff -----Original Message----- From: J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com> Sent: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 10:00 am Subject: RV-List: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location You might want to see if one of your nav/coms is interferring.? My Com2 interfers w/ my handheld when it's on a certain freq range (around 115.+-) ? You might try this. When your GPS looses position, try watching your GPS signal strength page?as you turn each avionics unit. ? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Removing Tanks
Hello again, I mis-worded my question. It should have said,"how do you remove a tank?" I think most of us would have a tough time working on a plate with the tank still on the wing. It could be done, maybe, but I think it's time for me to take the tank off and do a good job on the leaks, replace the sender, and comply with the fuel sender SB. So... since I didn't build my RV-4, I am asking for advice in removing the tank. I'm pretty sure I'll have to use a razor blade around certain edges to avoid chipping the paint. I know to drain the tank. Are there any other pitfalls? Any other tips? The rest of the advice about removing and replacing the plate(s), I have printed out in LARGE PRINT on my work sheets. I should have asked for that advice also, but my first objective is to remove the tank. To those of you who have posted suggestions, keep on doing it! There are plenty of us doing this for the first time, and there is plenty of up-to-date solutions that we are unaware of. The archives are great, but it can be like a safari through the Congo trying to find what you really need. Thanks again. Louis ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Barrett" <2thman(at)cablespeed.com>
Subject: RE: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Subject: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation Mark Phillips describes a very nice improvement for wingtip installation, but just consider what it would be like with none of those rivet holes to drill (think less work), to see in the paint job or to work loose over time with vibration. If you use graphite hinges, the job becomes really simple comparatively speaking. The same principal holds true for the cowls. http://carbinge.com/wingtips.htm http://carbinge.com/cowl_attach.htm To avoid drilling a bunch of rivet holes in the wing skin, think of using a minimum number of rivets (two on either end) and using Hysol adhesive with clamps to Bond the hinge half to the inside of the wing skin. Then the hinge is reassembled, the wing tip set carefully to place and cleco holes are drilled in the composite wing tip and through the hinge. Hysol is then used to bond this half of the hinge to the inside of the wingtip. The cleco holes are later filled and they disappear! Carbinge Keepers are an ingenious method of securing the pin (wire) in place so that you don't have to devise complicated or unsightly security mechanisms. You simply screw them to place once they are installed and forever after installing or removing your wing tip or cowl is a slam dunk simple job with no chance for dinging up your paint job. http://carbinge.com/Keepers.htm Mark mentions 450 hours of flight time with no problems on his airplane. That's impressive and we can vouch for his results as we have cowling applications in Lancair IVP's that have well over 1,000 hours of flight time with no service required. We have been supplying Carbinge to builders for about 9 years and Carbinge Keepers have been available for about five years. Regards, John Barrett, CEO Barrett/Garrett Enterprises, Inc. PO Box 428 Port Hadlock, WA 98339 www.carbinge.com 7:32 PM 7:32 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph Finch" <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: rivet hardening
Date: Jan 19, 2008
I'm not a metallurgist. But as an engineer I'm guessing that the technique described will increase a rivet's strength by just a very few percent. It strikes me as something that a perfectionist would want, but an engineer would disdain as not being worth the trouble, given the highly redundant strength of our multiple rivets already. Obviously lots of planes have and are flown built with rivet guns so I'm sticking with that. And I would not start experimenting with different rivet gun pressures and so forth! Do your experiments on something harmless unless you have formal education and plenty of experience in the area. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen matejcek Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 4:43 AM Subject: RV-List: rivet hardening HI guys and gals- This is not absolutely purely RV related, so purists please delete now! I was talking to a friend a while back about riveting. He is building one of Monett's products, which is built almost exclusively with pulled rivets. The only solid rivets are the big ones in the spar center section. What my friend learned at a Monett factory seminar is to put the factory head in a rivet set on an anvil and smack the shop end with a hammer. I believe they were to use some sort of a striking bar or block to transfer the blow, but I don't recall that detail perfectly at this point. Anyway, what my friend was told at this seminar is that one of the various reasons for doing this is that this technique will properly set the rivet in fewer blows than using a rivet gun, and that this in turn would lessen the work hardening of the rivet. This is not an intuitive conclusion for me, and I was wondering what the metallurgists / professional metal workers / other smart folks out there think? As a morsel for those purists who haven't already deleted, if this is a valid point, perhaps we could make ever so slightly tougher structures by using higher gun pressures while riveting. Thoughts? BTW, I ZnCrO3 most things, glued my canopy, have a constant speed, IFR panel, and the little wheel is in the back... ;-) glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Subject: rivet hardening
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Hi Glen, This is a real issue. We don't see it much with 99% of our little rivets but driving the big ones in the spars is where we would. I drove my spar rivets with a small sledge hammer using my C-frame. It worked great but I had to really smack the rivet hard to have the least number of hits. They definitely got harder to drive each time you hit them. I don't think that it's a strength issue with work hardening but cracking and failure to flow to fill the hole and form a good shop head. DavdB -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of glen matejcek Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 4:43 AM Subject: RV-List: rivet hardening HI guys and gals- This is not absolutely purely RV related, so purists please delete now! I was talking to a friend a while back about riveting. He is building one of Monett's products, which is built almost exclusively with pulled rivets. The only solid rivets are the big ones in the spar center section. What my friend learned at a Monett factory seminar is to put the factory head in a rivet set on an anvil and smack the shop end with a hammer. I believe they were to use some sort of a striking bar or block to transfer the blow, but I don't recall that detail perfectly at this point. Anyway, what my friend was told at this seminar is that one of the various reasons for doing this is that this technique will properly set the rivet in fewer blows than using a rivet gun, and that this in turn would lessen the work hardening of the rivet. This is not an intuitive conclusion for me, and I was wondering what the metallurgists / professional metal workers / other smart folks out there think? As a morsel for those purists who haven't already deleted, if this is a valid point, perhaps we could make ever so slightly tougher structures by using higher gun pressures while riveting. Thoughts? BTW, I ZnCrO3 most things, glued my canopy, have a constant speed, IFR panel, and the little wheel is in the back... ;-) glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
Date: Jan 19, 2008
A possible serious negative of APRS is coverage in mountainous/western areas. I think that Spot is going to win out in coverage. As far as 2-way texting...it sounds good but to me the most important element is notification of the need for help/rescue. Plus Spot is "off the shelf" Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Subject: Re: Custom tank builder
From: Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
I took the tanks off and really felt it was not a big issue. BTW, I initially used Proseal when I built my RV-4 to seal the tanks and they leaked (probably my installation process). Other in the area had used Form A Gasket with 100% success and that is what I used when I resealed the tanks after the SB requirement. Doug On 1/18/08 10:34 PM, "John Morgensen" wrote: > Really dumb question... Do you take the tanks off of the wing first or do it > in place? > > John Morgensen > > Doug Weiler wrote: >> >> >> >> I have done this a couple times. >> >> Carefully remove the tank cover with a wide blade putty knife. Remove >> sending unit. >> >> Clean all mating areas very well with lacquer thinner. >> >> Assuming the plate is not went or warped, get a new cork gasket from Van's. >> Get a new gasket for the new sending unit also. >> >> Be sure everything is very clean (PPG wax and greaser remover is good. Also >> Dupont 3812S reducer or Coleman Lantern Fuel). >> >> Seal all mating surfaces with PermaTex Aviation Form a Gasket (get it at >> your auto supply store). Use all new cork gaskets. >> >> Remount the sending unit and the larger tank cover using socket cap screws >> and washer. DO not over tighten them.. Just snug them up. >> >> Let the tanks sit for a couple days before reinstallation. >> >> I have never had a leak using Aviation Form A Gasket. >> >> Doug Weiler >> RV-4, N722DW, 450 hours >> >> >> >> >> On 1/18/08 5:39 PM, "Louis Willig" >> wrote: >> >> >> >>> >>> >>> >>> Hi gang >>> >>> While we're on the subject of tanks... >>> >>> Mine has leaked from day one. Eight years ago. Every so often, like >>> at annual time, I clean off the offending area and the A&P smears >>> some goo on the leaking area. Well, its time to take the tank off and >>> remove the leaking plate and maybe replace the sending unit. I have >>> never done this. Is this a big job? Can any of you give me some >>> suggestions? Like what to watch out for. >>> >>> Thank in advance. >>> >>> >>> >>> - >>> Louis I Willig >>> 1640 Oakwood Dr. >>> Penn Valley, PA 19072 >>> 610 668-4964 >>> RV-4, N180PF, 650 hrs. >>> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Subject: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
Date: Jan 19, 2008
One consideration if you don't think the continued subscription costs of the Spot system sounds attractive is to rent one when taking a trip that puts you over wilderness areas. Satellite phone stores rent phones for trips like this and they also rent Spots... your choice. DaveB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Very nice, sure beats my 32? screws, but seems I have read that graphite/carbon cloth can cause aluminum to corrode. Is not one end of the hinge sandwiched between rib and wing skin? Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Barrett" <2thman(at)cablespeed.com> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:45 AM Subject: RV-List: RE: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation > > Subject: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation > > Mark Phillips describes a very nice improvement for wingtip installation, > but just consider what it would be like with none of those rivet holes to > drill (think less work), to see in the paint job or to work loose over > time > with vibration. If you use graphite hinges, the job becomes really simple > comparatively speaking. The same principal holds true for the cowls. > > http://carbinge.com/wingtips.htm > > http://carbinge.com/cowl_attach.htm > > > To avoid drilling a bunch of rivet holes in the wing skin, think of using > a > minimum number of rivets (two on either end) and using Hysol adhesive with > clamps to Bond the hinge half to the inside of the wing skin. Then the > hinge is reassembled, the wing tip set carefully to place and cleco holes > are drilled in the composite wing tip and through the hinge. Hysol is > then > used to bond this half of the hinge to the inside of the wingtip. The > cleco > holes are later filled and they disappear! > > Carbinge Keepers are an ingenious method of securing the pin (wire) in > place > so that you don't have to devise complicated or unsightly security > mechanisms. You simply screw them to place once they are installed and > forever after installing or removing your wing tip or cowl is a slam dunk > simple job with no chance for dinging up your paint job. > > http://carbinge.com/Keepers.htm > > > Mark mentions 450 hours of flight time with no problems on his airplane. > That's impressive and we can vouch for his results as we have cowling > applications in Lancair IVP's that have well over 1,000 hours of flight > time > with no service required. > > We have been supplying Carbinge to builders for about 9 years and Carbinge > Keepers have been available for about five years. > > > Regards, > > John Barrett, CEO > Barrett/Garrett Enterprises, Inc. > PO Box 428 > Port Hadlock, WA 98339 > www.carbinge.com > > > 7:32 PM > > > 7:32 PM > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Look into internal battery replacement. I can't say that it is the cause but it may be a reasonable factor. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: rivet hardening
Date: Jan 19, 2008
On 19-Jan-08, at 10:54 , David Burton wrote: > > I drove my spar > rivets with a small sledge hammer using my C-frame. It worked great > but I > had to really smack the rivet hard to have the least number of > hits. They > definitely got harder to drive each time you hit them. The "getting harder to drive each time you hit them" isn't only due to work hardening. The diameter of the shop head increases as you drive the rivet, so it takes a harder and harder force to cause the metal to move as you progress. Given that there are over 5000 RVs flying that were built with the traditional rivet gun method, and they aren't falling out of the sky, I wouldn't worry about this, unless you are driving the big rivets on a main wing spar. Those rivets either need a big rivet run, or a hammer. The 3X or 2X gun used on the rest of the project won't cut it, and most folks aren't prepared to purchase another rivet gun for just that task. So out comes the hammer. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (final assemby) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: darnpilot(at)aol.com
OK...is there an internal battery other than the rechargeable one?? If there is, then I agree. Jeff -----Original Message----- From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> Sent: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 4:38 pm Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location Look into internal battery replacement.? I can't say that it is the cause but it may be a reasonable factor. ? Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Removing Tanks
Louis Willig wrote: > > Hello again, > > I mis-worded my question. It should have said,"how do you remove a tank?" > > I think most of us would have a tough time working on a plate with the > tank still on the wing. It could be done, maybe, but I think it's time > for me to take the tank off and do a good job on the leaks, replace the > sender, and comply with the fuel sender SB. So... since I didn't build > my RV-4, I am asking for advice in removing the tank. I'm pretty sure > I'll have to use a razor blade around certain edges to avoid chipping > the paint. I know to drain the tank. Are there any other pitfalls? Any > other tips? > > The rest of the advice about removing and replacing the plate(s), I have > printed out in LARGE PRINT on my work sheets. I should have asked for > that advice also, but my first objective is to remove the tank. > > To those of you who have posted suggestions, keep on doing it! There are > plenty of us doing this for the first time, and there is plenty of > up-to-date solutions that we are unaware of. The archives are great, but > it can be like a safari through the Congo trying to find what you really > need. Thanks again. > > Louis > I had to disconnect the fuel line on both ends so it could be retracted into the fuselage slightly. I had to move the tank toward the fuselage slightly to get it off and there's the back flange of the inboard rib to deal with also; that's why I had to move the fuel line. I used popsicle sticks to spread the back flanges slightly so that the dimples wouldn't hang on the countersinks in the spar flanges. A thin blade like a small putty knife can be used to lift the flanges to insert the sticks. It was a little bit of a chore to get the tank started, but fairly easy after that to remove it. I think I used a small pry bar between the back of the tank & the spar to get it started. I did it alone, with a rigged-up padded platform under the tank in case it tried to fall. I think that I used thin cardboard or plastic sheet to protect the spar flanges when I re-installed the tank. Hard to explain in words, but it was easier to spread the flange & insert multiple sticks to remove the tank & easier to use a continuous strip of sheet material while pushing the flanges back over the spar during re-installation. Hope that helps, Charlie flying -4, -7 finish kit on order ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net>
Subject: nonskid for steps
Date: Jan 19, 2008
What material do you put on the optional steps to make them non-skid? I assume wing walk material. If so, anyone have a source for a small piece? I ordered the RV wing walks from Van's so I don't have any extra material. Don Mack | don(at)dmack.net | www.dmack.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 19, 2008
I don't know. I just removed the AA batteries for about eight minutes and when I put new ones in and checked the time (inside under a desk to prevent signal acquisition), the time was to within a second of my PC time. That suggests another power source. Ron Lee ----- Original Message ----- From: darnpilot(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 3:57 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location OK...is there an internal battery other than the rechargeable one? If there is, then I agree. Jeff -----Original Message----- From: Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 4:38 pm Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location Look into internal battery replacement. I can't say that it is the cause but it may be a reasonable factor. Ron Lee ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: nonskid for steps
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Something like this may work: http://tinyurl.com/2aktnv ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 5:04 PM Subject: RV-List: nonskid for steps > > What material do you put on the optional steps to make them non-skid? I > assume wing walk material. If so, anyone have a source for a small piece? > I > ordered the RV wing walks from Van's so I don't have any extra material. > > Don Mack | don(at)dmack.net | www.dmack.net > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 19, 2008
Subject: Re: nonskid for steps
In a message dated 01/19/2008 6:10:05 PM Central Standard Time, don(at)dmack.net writes: What material do you put on the optional steps to make them non-skid? >>> You can order the stick-on stuff by the foot, or paint from the usual suspects (Spruce/Wicks/etc.) You could also investigate Lowes Depot or Wallyworld for non-skid strips for tubs & showers. I did something a bit different for my plane if you are looking to do it during painting: _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5276_ (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5276) >From The PossumWorks in TN, Mark **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: Ralph Hoover <hooverra(at)verizon.net>
Subject: nonskid for steps
Try the Aviation Department of your local Home Despot or Lowes. Tape for stair treads. Another option would be grip tape for skate boards. -- Ralph C. Hoover RV7A hooverra at verizon dot net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Subject: Re: nonskid for steps
Skate Board Tape... aka grip tape... aka stair tread tape... john Don Mack wrote: > > What material do you put on the optional steps to make them non-skid? I > assume wing walk material. If so, anyone have a source for a small piece? I > ordered the RV wing walks from Van's so I don't have any extra material. > > Don Mack | don(at)dmack.net | www.dmack.net > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 19, 2008
I just removed the AA batteries for an hour and the time was within about two seconds of my PC time. This is in a Garmin eTrex unit. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 19, 2008
A lot of GPSs have small lithium coin cells in them. They are good for about 5 years. The real problem with them is after they get real old they can leak and corrode the circuit boards. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 8:31 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location I just removed the AA batteries for an hour and the time was within about two seconds of my PC time. This is in a Garmin eTrex unit. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Send it to them if you can't figure it out..their service is excellent..they turned mine around in a few days, installed a new screen (mine had a small scratch) and even gave me a new Jeppesen database. No charge, and no questions asked! Paul Besing ----- Original Message ---- From: "darnpilot(at)aol.com" <darnpilot(at)aol.com> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 8:27:32 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location Not likely. My installation worked perfectly up until July of this year (no changes were made). Since July, it has frozen the time shortly (within a day or two) after shutdown. There is something going on internally...software or hardware. Since I do not seem to be the only one, I must conclude that this is not an uncommon occurrence and there is a larger problem that Garmin has to address. Jeff -----Original Message----- From: J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com> Sent: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 10:00 am Subject: RV-List: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location You might want to see if one of your nav/coms is interferring. My Com2 interfers w/ my handheld when it's on a certain freq range (around 115.+-) You might try this. When your GPS looses position, try watching your GPS signal strength page as you turn each avionics unit. Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: Dave B <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: nonskid for steps
If you have Van's wingwalks, they feature "push out" letters that spell RV6,7,etc, just use that material for your steps. Dave Don Mack wrote: > > What material do you put on the optional steps to make them non-skid? I > assume wing walk material. If so, anyone have a source for a small piece? I > ordered the RV wing walks from Van's so I don't have any extra material. > > Don Mack | don(at)dmack.net | www.dmack.net > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 19, 2008
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
I don't know about the 396 but I had the same problem with a Garmin GPS III Pilot. There is a coin size battery which is epoxied to the inside of the case with leads going to the circuit board. This battery keeps the real time clock powered when the main batteries are discharged. My battery went bad and every time the GPS was powered down it would lose track of the almanac, even though I had fresh AA batteries in it. I didn't look at the board to see how the coin battery is charged but I found a replacement and fixed mine. I suspect the 396 also has an internal coin-sized battery for the RTC and yours is probably dead also. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On Jan 18, 2008 6:36 PM, Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com> wrote: > I hope your 296 doesn't keep going south like my 396. My 396 loses it's > location almost every weekend - for sure if I miss a weekend flying. It > takes 5-10 min to find itself if I tell it to use a new location - but at > least it's still useable. I've talked to Garmin tech support a couple times > and their drill is to get the latest software update and to purge the > satellite almanac. Power up while holding the zoom out key for ~12 sec will > flush the almanac (at least for the 396) and then leave it on in the open > for 30-45 minutes to download a new one. That has not cured my problem so > they tell me the next step is to send it in for the $350 flat rate repair... > aaarrggghhh! > > Regards, > Greg Young > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill Boyd > *Sent:* Friday, January 18, 2008 4:13 PM > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV-List: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT > > Replying to my own post, here- too many things wrong with the flight so I > stood down. Garmin 296 wouldn't lock onto more than 2 birds, and thought > the local time was 11:36 AM, so it acts like the internal battery is going > south (flown as recently as last week) - but the unit powers up fine on the > bench using just its own battery, as I write this. Directional control on > the snow was awful, even though there was lots of grass showing - just too > much cover. I think I packed the wheel pants with snow in short order. I > couldn't even hold brakes against a 1600 rpm run-up without sliding. When I > was about 50% beyond my normal rotation point and still hadn't broken > ground, weaving like a taildragger pilot in a crosswind (gulp!) I balked the > takeoff. Barely had enough braking action to execute a 180 within the width > of the strip. > > This is disappointing, since I wanted to fly tonight and wanted to demo > the APRS, but I guess I get an "A" for decision making. Even if I had had > hull coverage I don't think I could have felt good about completing that > takeoff, knowing I'd have to return to that same runway in a few minutes > and try to stop safely, possibly with frozen brake pads. The weather is > supposed to turn here tonight, so that was probably my one window to fly for > the next week or two. Snow expected again tomorrow and a deep freeze on top > of that. Should stay mushy out there till about April even if the snow > dissipates. Some days are like that. > > I'll post a heads-up if /when I try the airborne APRS again. Meanwhile > I'm going to have harsh words with my 296. > > -Stormy > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: rivet hardening
Date: Jan 20, 2008
HI Ralph- Re: But as an engineer I'm guessing that the technique > described will increase a rivet's strength by just a very few percent. It > strikes me as something that a perfectionist would want, but an engineer > would disdain as not being worth the trouble, given the highly redundant > strength of our multiple rivets already. Obviously lots of planes have and > are flown built with rivet guns so I'm sticking with that. And I would not > start experimenting with different rivet gun pressures and so forth! Do > your experiments on something harmless unless you have formal education and > plenty of experience in the area. I think perhaps you might have misunderstood my comments and question. I wouldn't suggest folks start building RV's with hammers, and I have no concerns about the strength of the 5K+ RV's out there. It's an issue of gaining / verifying a bit of knowledge and exploring it's application. Upping the gun air pressure somewhat isn't all that big a deal. Forgetting you have full line pressure on tap after a drilling operation and then trying to shoot a rivet can have less than pleasing results, er, or so I've been told ;-) Personally, I've come to prefer using higher pressures than Van's recommends. As far as the part about formal education and experience goes... well... if there were a riveting contest held between an average A&P and an average homebuilder, I know where I'd put my money! > > Hi Glen, Hi Dave! > This is a real issue. We don't see it much with 99% of our little rivets > but driving the big ones in the spars is where we would. I drove my spar > rivets with a small sledge hammer using my C-frame. It worked great but I > had to really smack the rivet hard to have the least number of hits. They > definitely got harder to drive each time you hit them. I don't think that > it's a strength issue with work hardening but cracking and failure to flow > to fill the hole and form a good shop head. > Interesting. In the conversation I had on the topic, it was presented as relevant to all rivets. Perhaps the intent was that it was preferable to use a hammer on rivets that would be a challenge for the average homebuilder's rivet gun. Thanks for the clarification. HI Kevin- > Given that there are over 5000 RVs flying that were built with the > traditional rivet gun method, and they aren't falling out of the sky, > I wouldn't worry about this, unless you are driving the big rivets on > a main wing spar. Those rivets either need a big rivet run, or a > hammer. The 3X or 2X gun used on the rest of the project won't cut > it, and most folks aren't prepared to purchase another rivet gun for > just that task. So out comes the hammer. > Makes sense! Thanks to all- glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2008
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Good thought. Any problem with opening these things up for user service (besides warranty, which I'm way beyond) - like a nitrogen-filled case to mitigate condensation, that might be ruined? -Stormy On Jan 19, 2008 10:54 PM, Bob J. wrote: > I don't know about the 396 but I had the same problem with a Garmin GPS > III Pilot. There is a coin size battery which is epoxied to the inside of > the case with leads going to the circuit board. This battery keeps the real > time clock powered when the main batteries are discharged. My battery went > bad and every time the GPS was powered down it would lose track of the > almanac, even though I had fresh AA batteries in it. I didn't look at the > board to see how the coin battery is charged but I found a replacement and > fixed mine. I suspect the 396 also has an internal coin-sized battery for > the RTC and yours is probably dead also. > > Regards, > Bob Japundza > RV-6 flying F1 under const. > > On Jan 18, 2008 6:36 PM, Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com> wrote: > > > I hope your 296 doesn't keep going south like my 396. My 396 loses it's > > location almost every weekend - for sure if I miss a weekend flying. It > > takes 5-10 min to find itself if I tell it to use a new location - but at > > least it's still useable. I've talked to Garmin tech support a couple times > > and their drill is to get the latest software update and to purge the > > satellite almanac. Power up while holding the zoom out key for ~12 sec will > > flush the almanac (at least for the 396) and then leave it on in the open > > for 30-45 minutes to download a new one. That has not cured my problem so > > they tell me the next step is to send it in for the $350 flat rate repair... > > aaarrggghhh! > > > > Regards, > > Greg Young > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > > owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill Boyd > > *Sent:* Friday, January 18, 2008 4:13 PM > > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > > *Subject:* Re: RV-List: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT > > > > Replying to my own post, here- too many things wrong with the flight so > > I stood down. Garmin 296 wouldn't lock onto more than 2 birds, and thought > > the local time was 11:36 AM, so it acts like the internal battery is going > > south (flown as recently as last week) - but the unit powers up fine on the > > bench using just its own battery, as I write this. Directional control on > > the snow was awful, even though there was lots of grass showing - just too > > much cover. I think I packed the wheel pants with snow in short order. I > > couldn't even hold brakes against a 1600 rpm run-up without sliding. When I > > was about 50% beyond my normal rotation point and still hadn't broken > > ground, weaving like a taildragger pilot in a crosswind (gulp!) I balked the > > takeoff. Barely had enough braking action to execute a 180 within the width > > of the strip. > > > > This is disappointing, since I wanted to fly tonight and wanted to demo > > the APRS, but I guess I get an "A" for decision making. Even if I had had > > hull coverage I don't think I could have felt good about completing that > > takeoff, knowing I'd have to return to that same runway in a few minutes > > and try to stop safely, possibly with frozen brake pads. The weather is > > supposed to turn here tonight, so that was probably my one window to fly for > > the next week or two. Snow expected again tomorrow and a deep freeze on top > > of that. Should stay mushy out there till about April even if the snow > > dissipates. Some days are like that. > > > > I'll post a heads-up if /when I try the airborne APRS again. Meanwhile > > I'm going to have harsh words with my 296. > > > > -Stormy > > > > * > > > > * > > > > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Subject: nonskid for steps
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Don, Go to a boat supply store. They sell non-skid material in different widths. It should be available in white or black. I think I will use the material on my wings. I used it on my first build. I did four or five strips in the area where you should step. It is trimmed with a scissor. It worked very well and stayed put. Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Barrett" <2thman(at)cablespeed.com>
Subject: RE: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation
Date: Jan 20, 2008
ED Anderson wrote: Very nice, sure beats my 32? screws, but seems I have read that graphite/carbon cloth can cause aluminum to corrode. Is not one end of the hinge sandwiched between rib and wing skin? Ed **************** That's a good question and one we wrestled with at length in the Lancair community many years ago. I believe that the Hysol adhesive will largely act as a buffer between the materials and the resin in the composite material acts as an additional buffer, but that's not the whole argument and not necessarily a wise basis for experimenting with your airplane. One of our members decided to run an experiment since the question arose. He has a saltwater fish tank and using that he assembled a piece of graphite clamped against a piece of aluminum and dunked the assembly into the tank for two weeks. He then pulled the assembly out and inspection revealed that there was no breakdown of the materials. Since that time the question has not re emerged and no one has reported deterioration or failure of metals in proximity to graphite. Since you ask that question it reminds me that we have considered the graphite to steel dielectric constant as a potential problem because we have a steel wire going through the hinge. It just so happens we use a nylon bearing in the hinge and so there is virtually no touching of the graphite and steel. If this answer still leaves one uneasy, there is another solution that can be used. You could use the MS aluminum hinge on the wing side and Carbinge on the wingtip side. Hope this helps. Regards, John Barrett www.carbinge.com 6:37 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Subject: 296/396 lossing location
Date: Jan 20, 2008
I get the digest so im late chiming in but I had that problem a few months back, sent it in for checkout and they sent me a new 296 which has worked fine, Charlie heathco ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Hi John, Thanks for the information - sounds like its not a problem, may depend on circumstances as well, heat, humidity and other such factors - or may just be another of those "urban myths" {:>) Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Barrett" <2thman(at)cablespeed.com> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 10:03 AM Subject: RV-List: RE: Improvements to "Hinged" wingtip installation > > ED Anderson wrote: > > Very nice, sure beats my 32? screws, but seems I have read that > graphite/carbon cloth can cause aluminum to corrode. Is not one end of > the > hinge sandwiched between rib and wing skin? > > Ed > **************** > > That's a good question and one we wrestled with at length in the Lancair > community many years ago. I believe that the Hysol adhesive will largely > act as a buffer between the materials and the resin in the composite > material acts as an additional buffer, but that's not the whole argument > and > not necessarily a wise basis for experimenting with your airplane. > > One of our members decided to run an experiment since the question arose. > He has a saltwater fish tank and using that he assembled a piece of > graphite > clamped against a piece of aluminum and dunked the assembly into the tank > for two weeks. He then pulled the assembly out and inspection revealed > that > there was no breakdown of the materials. Since that time the question has > not re emerged and no one has reported deterioration or failure of metals > in > proximity to graphite. > > Since you ask that question it reminds me that we have considered the > graphite to steel dielectric constant as a potential problem because we > have > a steel wire going through the hinge. It just so happens we use a nylon > bearing in the hinge and so there is virtually no touching of the graphite > and steel. > > If this answer still leaves one uneasy, there is another solution that can > be used. You could use the MS aluminum hinge on the wing side and > Carbinge > on the wingtip side. > > Hope this helps. > > Regards, > > John Barrett > www.carbinge.com > > > 6:37 PM > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Bill, this is a good thread. On my Etrex, I saw no way to replace any internal battery. The same applies to my Lowrance Airmap 500. Hopefully this is not some insidious planned obsolescence issue. I think I will call Garmin and ask about this issue and costs. Perhaps I will check the user manual for any info. Ron Lee Good thought. Any problem with opening these things up for user service (besides warranty, which I'm way beyond) - like a nitrogen-filled case to mitigate condensation, that might be ruined? -Stormy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 20, 2008
I found this in the Lowrance Airmap 500 manual (page 11) "Flash memory and an internal lithium battery will keep your stored data safe and accessible for the life of the product." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 20, 2008
I can't speak to the 396 series. The 195s were sealed like a waterproof watch and are fairly waterproof. Garmin says that you can't open them up, but I split mine in half to semi-permanently mount it into the instrument panel with no problem. This was in the early days of GPS and people were stealing them like crazy. I have no idea if Garmin tries to purge them with Nitrogen before sealing them. The best advice I have for those who live in humid climates it to crank up the air conditioner and reassemble the GPS (I do this when putting my camera into the underwater camera housing) with it near the dry cooled air. Easy and works perfectly for diving. Should be good for the GPS too. DaveB _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Boyd Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 6:46 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location Good thought. Any problem with opening these things up for user service (besides warranty, which I'm way beyond) - like a nitrogen-filled case to mitigate condensation, that might be ruined? -Stormy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2008
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
I'm going to try again, Orville ;-) The snow is sublimating in the sunshine and 22 degree wind, and I think I can get airborne without packing the wheelpants with slush. It might be a long downhill takeoff roll, with a 20 knot tailwind, but the landing will be almost a hover. http://aprs.fi/?call=N30yd&mt=m&z=11&timerange=21600 Hopefully we will see some new data points appearing in real-time. This stronger transmitter has not been recalibrated as-installed for clean output, proper deviation, etc except at the factory, so I am hopeful, but not guaranteeing anything. If this works in googlemaps, try clicking the google earth KML feature to see a 3D flight path depiction in real time (will SPOT do that??) -Stormy fingers crossed on the Garmin 296, too. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Rivit hardening
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Year's ago on this list there was discuss about building your own spars. A friend of mine did this, I helped. He used an arbor press (Harbor freight part no. ITEM 3552-4VGA, now on sale for $32). One of use applied pressure on the press while the other smacked the upright with a 2.5# sledge a couple of times. Set a -6 rivet in two to three blows perfect each time. No bend overs. Marty in Brentwood TN From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: rivet hardening HI guys and gals- This is not absolutely purely RV related, so purists please delete now! I was talking to a friend a while back about riveting. He is building one of Monett's products, which is built almost exclusively with pulled rivets. The only solid rivets are the big ones in the spar center section. What my friend learned at a Monett factory seminar is to put the factory head in a rivet set on an anvil and smack the shop end with a hammer. I believe they were to use some sort of a striking bar or block to transfer the blow, but I don't recall that detail perfectly at this point. Anyway, what my friend was told at this seminar is that one of the various reasons for doing this is that this technique will properly set the rivet in fewer blows than using a rivet gun, and that this in turn would lessen the work hardening of the rivet. This is not an intuitive conclusion for me, and I was wondering what the metallurgists / professional metal workers / other smart folks out there think? As a morsel for those purists who haven't already deleted, if this is a valid point, perhaps we could make ever so slightly tougher structures by using higher gun pressures while riveting. Thoughts? BTW, I ZnCrO3 most things, glued my canopy, have a constant speed, IFR panel, and the little wheel is in the back... ;-) glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net Marty ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2008
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
Well, I'm not selling the bicycle shop, that's for dang sure. Flight to 7200' MSL and not a single ping- something is very wrong. I'll be back---! -Stormy On Jan 20, 2008 2:46 PM, Bill Boyd wrote: > I'm going to try again, Orville ;-) > > The snow is sublimating in the sunshine and 22 degree wind, and I think I > can get airborne without packing the wheelpants with slush. It might be a > long downhill takeoff roll, with a 20 knot tailwind, but the landing will be > almost a hover. > > http://aprs.fi/?call=N30yd&mt=m&z=11&timerange=21600 > > Hopefully we will see some new data points appearing in real-time. This > stronger transmitter has not been recalibrated as-installed for clean > output, proper deviation, etc except at the factory, so I am hopeful, but > not guaranteeing anything. > > If this works in googlemaps, try clicking the google earth KML feature to > see a 3D flight path depiction in real time (will SPOT do that??) > > -Stormy > > fingers crossed on the Garmin 296, too. > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2008
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Rivit hardening
Back in about 2000 or 2001 when I built my RV-6A spar, Van rented a pneumatic squeezer for the large rivets. When properly set up, it set those rivet s perfectly with little effort. They were exactly repeatable. I looked at Van's website and could not find any mention of that squeezer. It was sent from user to user because of its heavy use rather than returning to Van's after each use. If you can find a source now that rents them it is a super way to set those spar rivets. I've attached a couple of pictures of the squeezer in use. Richard Dudley RV-6A flying Emrath wrote: > > >Year's ago on this list there was discuss about building your own spars. A >friend of mine did this, I helped. He used an arbor press (Harbor freight >part no. ITEM 3552-4VGA, now on sale for $32). One of use applied pressure >on the press while the other smacked the upright with a 2.5# sledge a couple >of times. Set a -6 rivet in two to three blows perfect each time. No bend >overs. >Marty in Brentwood TN > > >From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> >Subject: RV-List: rivet hardening > > >HI guys and gals- > >This is not absolutely purely RV related, so purists please delete now! > >I was talking to a friend a while back about riveting. He is building one >of Monett's products, which is built almost exclusively with pulled rivets. >The only solid rivets are the big ones in the spar center section. What my >friend learned at a Monett factory seminar is to put the factory head in a >rivet set on an anvil and smack the shop end with a hammer. I believe they >were to use some sort of a striking bar or block to transfer the blow, but I >don't recall that detail perfectly at this point. Anyway, what my friend >was told at this seminar is that one of the various reasons for doing this >is that this technique will properly set the rivet in fewer blows than using >a rivet gun, and that this in turn would lessen the work hardening of the >rivet. > >This is not an intuitive conclusion for me, and I was wondering what the >metallurgists / professional metal workers / other smart folks out there >think? > >As a morsel for those purists who haven't already deleted, if this is a >valid point, perhaps we could make ever so slightly tougher structures by >using higher gun pressures while riveting. > >Thoughts? > >BTW, I ZnCrO3 most things, glued my canopy, have a constant speed, IFR >panel, and the little wheel is in the back... ;-) > >glen matejcek >aerobubba(at)earthlink.net >Marty > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2008
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
No problem- they're forecasting 8 degrees F tonight; I'll just reassemble i t outside :-) -Stormy On Jan 20, 2008 2:16 PM, David Burton wrote: > I can't speak to the 396 series. The 195s were sealed like a waterproof > watch and are fairly waterproof. Garmin says that you can't open them up , > but I split mine in half to semi-permanently mount it into the instrument > panel with no problem. This was in the early days of GPS and people were > stealing them like crazy=85 > > > I have no idea if Garmin tries to purge them with Nitrogen before sealing > them. The best advice I have for those who live in humid climates it to > crank up the air conditioner and reassemble the GPS (I do this when putti ng > my camera into the underwater camera housing) with it near the dry cooled > air. Easy and works perfectly for diving. Should be good for the GPS to o. > > > DaveB > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill Boyd > *Sent:* Sunday, January 20, 2008 6:46 AM > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location > > > Good thought. Any problem with opening these things up for user service > (besides warranty, which I'm way beyond) - like a nitrogen-filled case to > mitigate condensation, that might be ruined? > > -Stormy > > * * > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 20, 2008
I guess the question is how long did Lowrance consider the life of the Airmap to be? We replace these all the time in medical equipment and computer products. They don't last the lifetime we expect out of the equipment. There are different types of lithium batteries and some last longer then others. I think 10 years would be about it. If you start with 100 of these, at the end of the "average" life 50 are dead, and some will be dead much sooner then average. I just changed a back-up battery in a 286 computer that had been working for more then 20 years. The iMac batteries can fail in 2 sometimes. It wouldn't surprise me too much if replacing the backup battery did not cure this problem, but given what Garmin's flat rate is it may be worth trying. I would. DaveB _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 10:07 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location I found this in the Lowrance Airmap 500 manual (page 11) "Flash memory and an internal lithium battery will keep your stored data safe and accessible for the life of the product." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Underwood" <udog1(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Mechanical Fuel Pump Troubleshooting
Date: Jan 20, 2008
I am attempting to start an O-360 engine on an RV-4 for the first time since installation. The engine has been previously run on a test stand with no problems. The airplane has a Facet electric boost pump (per Vans blueprints) and the stock Lycoming mechanical fuel pump and MA5 carb. I can not obain any fuel pressure or fuel flow through the mechanical pump using only the boost pump. The boost pump provides adequate pressure and flow at the mechanical pump inlet fitting but there is only a trickle of fuel flow through the pump. What possible mechanical pump failure mode would prevent the boost pump from supplying the engine? I had to replace the fuel pump vent fitting - could a blocked fuel pump vent prevent flow through the pump? Any other troubleshooting ideas before I go through the pain of removing the pump - very difficult on an RV-4! Thanks for any helpful ideas Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2008
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Can't speak for the 396, but the III Pilot warns when the internal backup battery gets low & warns every time you turn it on after it's too low to sustain the memory while powered off. You're not that far from DC. With all the tricks the military can play with GPS, I wouldn't be surprised about anything going wrong up in your area. Have you compared notes with others up there to see if theirs displays the same symptoms if turned off the same length of time on the same days? Charlie Bill Boyd wrote: > Good thought. Any problem with opening these things up for user service > (besides warranty, which I'm way beyond) - like a nitrogen-filled case > to mitigate condensation, that might be ruined? > > -Stormy > > On Jan 19, 2008 10:54 PM, Bob J. > wrote: > > I don't know about the 396 but I had the same problem with a Garmin > GPS III Pilot. There is a coin size battery which is epoxied to the > inside of the case with leads going to the circuit board. This > battery keeps the real time clock powered when the main batteries > are discharged. My battery went bad and every time the GPS was > powered down it would lose track of the almanac, even though I had > fresh AA batteries in it. I didn't look at the board to see how the > coin battery is charged but I found a replacement and fixed mine. I > suspect the 396 also has an internal coin-sized battery for the RTC > and yours is probably dead also. > > Regards, > Bob Japundza > RV-6 flying F1 under const. > > On Jan 18, 2008 6:36 PM, Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com > gyoung@cs-sol.com>> wrote: > > I hope your 296 doesn't keep going south like my 396. My 396 > loses it's location almost every weekend - for sure if I miss a > weekend flying. It takes 5-10 min to find itself if I tell it to > use a new location - but at least it's still useable. I've > talked to Garmin tech support a couple times and their drill is > to get the latest software update and to purge the satellite > almanac. Power up while holding the zoom out key for ~12 sec > will flush the almanac (at least for the 396) and then leave it > on in the open for 30-45 minutes to download a new one. That has > not cured my problem so they tell me the next step is to send it > in for the $350 flat rate repair... aaarrggghhh! > > Regards, > Greg Young > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] *On Behalf Of > *Bill Boyd > *Sent:* Friday, January 18, 2008 4:13 PM > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV-List: APRS tracking technology as > alternative to SPOT > > Replying to my own post, here- too many things wrong with > the flight so I stood down. Garmin 296 wouldn't lock onto > more than 2 birds, and thought the local time was 11:36 AM, > so it acts like the internal battery is going south (flown > as recently as last week) - but the unit powers up fine on > the bench using just its own battery, as I write this. > Directional control on the snow was awful, even though there > was lots of grass showing - just too much cover. I think I > packed the wheel pants with snow in short order. I couldn't > even hold brakes against a 1600 rpm run-up without sliding. > When I was about 50% beyond my normal rotation point and > still hadn't broken ground, weaving like a taildragger pilot > in a crosswind (gulp!) I balked the takeoff. Barely had > enough braking action to execute a 180 within the width of > the strip. > > This is disappointing, since I wanted to fly tonight and > wanted to demo the APRS, but I guess I get an "A" for > decision making. Even if I had had hull coverage I don't > think I could have felt good about completing that takeoff, > knowing I'd have to return to that same runway in a few > minutes and try to stop safely, possibly with frozen brake > pads. The weather is supposed to turn here tonight, so that > was probably my one window to fly for the next week or two. > Snow expected again tomorrow and a deep freeze on top of > that. Should stay mushy out there till about April even if > the snow dissipates. Some days are like that. > > I'll post a heads-up if /when I try the airborne APRS > again. Meanwhile I'm going to have harsh words with my 296. > > -Stormy > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2008
From: "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Re: APRS tracking technology as alternative to SPOT
Hang in there. We're watching... -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com On Jan 20, 2008 4:07 PM, Bill Boyd wrote: > Well, I'm not selling the bicycle shop, that's for dang sure. Flight to > 7200' MSL and not a single ping- something is very wrong. I'll be back---! > > -Stormy > > > On Jan 20, 2008 2:46 PM, Bill Boyd < sportav8r(at)gmail.com> wrote: > > > I'm going to try again, Orville ;-) > > > > The snow is sublimating in the sunshine and 22 degree wind, and I think > > I can get airborne without packing the wheelpants with slush. It might be a > > long downhill takeoff roll, with a 20 knot tailwind, but the landing will be > > almost a hover. > > > > > > > > Hopefully we will see some new data points appearing in real-time. This > > stronger transmitter has not been recalibrated as-installed for clean > > output, proper deviation, etc except at the factory, so I am hopeful, but > > not guaranteeing anything. > > > > If this works in googlemaps, try clicking the google earth KML feature > > to see a 3D flight path depiction in real time (will SPOT do that??) > > > > -Stormy > > > > fingers crossed on the Garmin 296, too. > > > > ** > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Canopy frame puts grown man into fetal position
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: Jan 20, 2008
I'm pulling this old message out of the archive from August 2005. Maybe you remember it, John McD was frustrated with the canopy frame and his process. He posted his frustration here and got a gutful of "you're not a real builder" response (his original post was intended to be humorous). I've thought about John a lot in the last year or so because I'm not sure we've heard from his since and if you're out there, John, I'm wondering how you ever survived this process. I started my canopy frame almost a year ago and things were going nicely until the last month or so. Plexi has been drilled fitted, side skirts fit nicely. Reinforcing kit clecoed in place. Check. Check. check Last week I put the struts on and didn't realize I'd taken the reinforcing kit off and, the thing pulled the frame wayyy forward. The struts were installed exactly as instructed. So this week I riveted the reinforcing kit on. I didn't encounter any problems doing so. Today I put the frame back on ..so far so good. Then reattached the struts. Spronnnnnnnng! Now the right side is sitting up 5/8" as measured at the rear of the riderear side of the frame. Where the hell did THAT twist come from. Now the nice 1/4" space between the rear channel (as measured from the inside of the web to the roll bar is now 1/2" as measured from the end of the flange on the channel. Cripes. So I thought again about John and wondered if he made it through this disaster of a process. As for me, I'm giving up. ------------ OK, I started this whole thread as a joke, and trying to relieve my frustration, but really .... ... Now I'm on a rant! The reason I picked Vans was because it is the best kit out there in so, so many ways. Where else (certified or not) can you get a plane that will fly like this at this cost? Where else can you find such a clear builders manual aided by readily available tech support? (Thank you Tom Green et al for your patience with an idiot like me.) BUT!!!... Right from the outset I realized that I was not one of these guys that builds the first one then suffers from "builders withdrawal" and immediately starts building another. I DO NOT enjoy the building process. It's a means to an end for me. I will never do this again. I just want to fly the thing, and I want it to be right when I do, There is a certain satisfaction from following the (usually) clear directions, taking the time to understand the (usually) accurate drawings (the biggest aggregate time in my builder's log will be the looking at the drawings, head scratching process. OK, my problem, my bad.), lining up the holes, being precise, riveting the thing and finally saying, "Wow! I built a rudder, and it's a real quality job, thank you, thank you Vans for your design and the technical support you provide to newbies like me." Tedium and patience is part of the process to get it right, and you start to think, "OK, I can do this, I can build an airframe if I just follow directions." But then you run into things like this (the canopy) and all good will goes out the window. Frustration doesn't need to be a part of the process if it can be avoided. I'm no engineer, but I'm reasonably intelligent, so can somebody tell me why Vans couldn't put the welded canopy frame (and roll bar) in some kind of factory jig to make it fit the rest of the airframe? I can visualize such an apparatus but I have neither the skill, means, nor would it be practical for me to build such a jig for a "one time" application. If you can match drill skins and ribs surely you can match drill this section too. Just tell me what it costs and I'll pay it. Right in Section 9 (Fitting the Canopy) page 1 of the manual it says this can be "... one of the most disappointing, gumption-robbing experiences a homebuilder can have." Got that right! Just can't wait until I get to (Vans words) "The black art" of fiberglass. Why is it that several guys are making a buck with fairings better than what Vans supplies? Better yet, what a joy will wiring this sucker be? Why can't Vans recommend a typical instrument panel and supply the components for the same instead of me putting out $5K for someone to do this part? A while back in the RV ator Van himself questioned why he had sold xx,xxx thousand empenage kits when there were only x,xxx thousand flying. He said, "What happened to the other x,xxx thousand?" You want my answer to date? The canopy! No skill one has acquired thus far in the process prepares you for this mess. Is it possible to leave the damn thing off and just fly with goggles? Hello Vans! Fix it! Let me do my 51% somewhere else! There must be other builders like me! Please don't flame me. It would just add to my frustration at this point. John McD (RV7A - @# %$ Canopy - ARRGGHAAA) Don't care if you archive or not, but please, somebody at Vans read this!!! Rant over. Tomorrow is another day. Maybe the elves will finish the canopy while I sleep. -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. Letters from Flyover Country http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159448#159448 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Canopy frame puts grown man into fetal position
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Now the nice 1/4" space between the rear channel (as measured from the inside of the web to the roll bar is now 1/2" as measured from the end of the flange on the channel. Cripes. As for me, I'm giving up. I learned a lot from a carpenter at work when I was young. One of the things he said that I will always remember is that the trick to being a good carpenter wasn't knowing how to do something right it was how to make it right. That is certainly one of the tricks experienced plane builders know that first-timers don't. I'd love to see the builder's manual for the RV10. The builder's manual for my RV6 consisted of an inventory sheet and a couple of cryptic notes. At least that is what it seemed like to me. One of the ways we get a superb plane for a fraction of the price of a certified plane is the limited hand holding. I think Van's is getting better at this, but I think there would have been lots more completions if they had provided better builder's manuals. Their kits would have had to cost more to pay for this. I'm interested to see what the RV-12 manual and kit is like. They are expending lots of design work on making the kit fast and easy to build. I'm really interested by this kit for several reasons. I understand the necessity of have the fuel tank in the cockpit but don't like that aspect. There probably isn't a solution for it. DaveB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Subject: Re: Canopy frame puts grown man into fetal position
In a message dated 01/20/2008 4:59:42 PM Central Standard Time, bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net writes: Today I put the frame back on ..so far so good. Then reattached the struts. Spronnnnnnnng! Now the right side is sitting up 5/8" as measured at the rear of the riderear side of the frame. Where the hell did THAT twist come from. Now the nice 1/4" space between the rear channel (as measured from the inside of the web to the roll bar is now 1/2" as measured from the end of the flange on the channel. Cripes. Bob, don't give up- the advice from the carpenter is most excellent! If I understand you correctly (no idea what "riderear" means- upset, are ya?) is seems that the pressure from the struts is shoving the frame forward and lifting it on the right side? You have to get control! (of the frame, that is!) Sounds like you're talking about a tip-up? During my build, I'd read some rv-list horror stories about the front of the canopy fouling the front skin after the struts were installed shoving the canopy forward against the top skin, resulting in some seriously mangled skins. I decided to add positive stops for the front of the canopy frame as shown here: _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4983_ (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4983) Unsure if this would help, but these things are just machines- they CAN be conquered! Mark **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Dave, it would appear that if you power up the GPS unit and the date/time is way off then suspecting a bad internal battery would be my first choice. However, without an obvious way to replace that battery in the GPS units I have, a flat rate of $300-400 to replace a battery seems outrageous. Ron Lee ----- Original Message ----- From: David Burton To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 12:39 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location I guess the question is how long did Lowrance consider the life of the Airmap to be? We replace these all the time in medical equipment and computer products. They don't last the lifetime we expect out of the equipment. There are different types of lithium batteries and some last longer then others. I think 10 years would be about it. If you start with 100 of these, at the end of the "average" life 50 are dead, and some will be dead much sooner then average. I just changed a back-up battery in a 286 computer that had been working for more then 20 years. The iMac batteries can fail in 2 sometimes. It wouldn't surprise me too much if replacing the backup battery did not cure this problem, but given what Garmin's flat rate is it may be worth trying. I would. DaveB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Ross" <dcr(at)fdltownhomes.com>
Subject: Sun Visors
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Guys: Anyone have any contacts for sun visors in a -9A slider? Dan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Back to the scrap bins
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Does anyone have some single conductor shielded wire (S906-1-22 or equiv) in their scrap bins? I need a one foot piece and a three foot piece. Thanks in advance, Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Linebaugh" <jefflinebaugh(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Left OVers for Sale
Date: Jan 20, 2008
Folks, I have some left over instruments and components for sale. All parts are in new condition. Drop me a line and make me an offer?! I need gas money! Airflow Performance Maintainable Fuel Filter: List $132 asking $99 Tempest Dry Vacuum Pump: P/N AA215CC List $340.95 Asking $250 Rapco Vacuum Regulator: P/N RA2H3-12. List $168.95 Asking $125 Airborne Gyro Filter: List $37.25 Asking $25. UMA Indicators: UMA 1 1/4 Fuel Qty (2) List $132 each Asking $180 for both UMA 1 1/4 Fuel PSI 0-30 PSI w/ senders and harness List $297 Asking $199 UMA 1 1/4 Fuel PSI 0-15 PSI w/ senders and harness. List $307 Asking $199 UMA 2 1/4 Manifold PSI. 10-35" Dual Diaphragm List $192 Asking $125 UMA 2 1/4 Tach. Requires Sender. Asking $125 UMA Suction List $94 Asking $69 UMA Oil Temp Probe List $63 Asking $45 Westach Dual Oil Temp/PSI: P/N 2DA3MM with Senders and Harnesses List $300 asking $225 Quartz Clock: CA-7264 List $89 Asking $59. Thanks! _________________ Jeff Linebaugh jeff@rocket-boys.com F1 "Sport" #33, 100 hours! Collierville, TN ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Troubleshooting
Date: Jan 21, 2008
From: Danny <vft(at)aol.com>
Rob, There are two check valves in the pump. One each on the inlet and outlet. You should be able to blow through the inlet side but not the other way. It's possible one or both are stuck. Danny Melnik F1 N14ZM Rocket Factory Melbourne, FL -----Original Message----- From: Rob Underwood <udog1(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 3:49 pm Subject: RV-List: Mechanical Fuel Pump Troubleshooting I am attempting to start an O-360 engine on an RV-4 for the first time since installation.? The engine has been previously run on a test stand with no problems.? The airplane has a Facet electric boost pump (per Vans blueprints) and the stock Lycoming mechanical fuel pump and MA5 carb.? I can not obain any fuel pressure or fuel flow through the mechanical pump using only the boost pump.? The boost pump provides adequate pressure and flow at the mechanical pump inlet fitting but there is only a trickle of fuel flow through the pump.? What possible mechanical pump failure mode would prevent the boost pump from supplying the engine?? I had to replace the fuel pump vent fitting - could a blocked fuel pump vent prevent flow through the pump?? Any other troubleshooting ideas before I go through the pain of removing the pump - very difficult on an RV-4! ? Thanks for any helpful ideas Rob ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net>
Subject: Re: Sun Visors
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Dan, Rosen sunvisor systems. Or look at VAF for Roll your own sunvisor. Mike H 9A/8A ----- Original Message ----- From: Dan Ross To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 8:33 PM Subject: RV-List: Sun Visors Guys: Anyone have any contacts for sun visors in a -9A slider? Dan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: Garmin 296/396 losing location
Date: Jan 21, 2008
I have opened my 396 with no problems. It has been a while and I don't remember if there was a battery in there or not. I used work in the marine electronics industry and with those products Lowrance was the only one that had nitrogen filled cases. Don't know if they ever did that on their aviation units or not. Would probably be way overkill. I have been in lots and lots of pieces of marine electronics and those with well designed enclosures (15 years ago they were few and far between, but now nearly all have watertight enclosures) would not get internal corrosion problems even around a salt water environment without any other special protection. If you are really anal about the ultimate in protection put in a cortec VpCI-101 vapor corrosion inhibitor which can be found at http://www.cortecvci.com/Products/products.php?showonly=Electric or a small package of silica gel, but I wouldn't bother unless I was using my GPS on a float equipped open cockpit ultralight off of salt water. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Burton Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 2:16 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location I can't speak to the 396 series. The 195s were sealed like a waterproof watch and are fairly waterproof. Garmin says that you can't open them up, but I split mine in half to semi-permanently mount it into the instrument panel with no problem. This was in the early days of GPS and people were stealing them like crazy. I have no idea if Garmin tries to purge them with Nitrogen before sealing them. The best advice I have for those who live in humid climates it to crank up the air conditioner and reassemble the GPS (I do this when putting my camera into the underwater camera housing) with it near the dry cooled air. Easy and works perfectly for diving. Should be good for the GPS too. DaveB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
Subject: On fuel pumps and rivets
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Blast the fuel pump with a really brief shot of shop air, or turn on boost pump and spin engine to see if diaphragm action will open the check valves. On rivets, while the number of times something is whacked does very slightly alter the amount of cold working that occurs(as in less than 1%), the primary factor that causes cold working is the amount of distortion, not the number of blows. (This obviously varies greatly for differing materials, but 2117 aluminum used in 426/470 standard rivets will be equally strong if crushed in 2, 3, 4, or 5 blows) It does not matter which end you crush the rivet from. When a gun is correctly used the first blow starts a cycle where the next blow and the buck come back together in sequence, but it is the shop end shank that is being formed, not the manufacturer's end. (hopefully) The reason we call them bucking bars is that they are supposed to buck. If the shop end is formed correctly as per AC43.13 it matters not how one got there. For -3's I use a pressure and bucking bar that gets me there in 3-4 blows, (as in ba-da-bop) if possible, some bars need to be lighter to get into those tiny places so the pressure gets backed off and it takes more blows. For -4s I aim for 4-5 blows although they can be done in 3, but at that pressure it is easier to lose it and over shoot causing the base metal to distort. There are many applications in really stiff frames where back riveting is the only way to get there because the gun won't move the base assembly enough to get proper bucking bar action. For those of you new to this you should play with holding the bucking bar too tight or stiffly, and then really loosely in thinner practice material to see what that does to both the rivet and the base material. You'll be amazed at how different the two look. It does take time to get a feel for this... The problem with a longer sequence of blows is that I tend to hold the bar too tight for that pressure getting high rivets and base metal puckers. I would also add, that for those of you who use squeezers, you are back riveting every time you squeeze. Happy MLK/Northridge Quake Day ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
Date: Jan 21, 2008
I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch). Battery should last 10 years. Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery replacer for less than $20 USD. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location
From: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jan 21, 2008
I have had the same issue with my 396 for the past 6 months or so whenever it has been inactive for a few days. I found that when it can't find the satellites, it gives you a screen with options like "start simulator" and "stored without battery." When I select "stored without battery", it almost immediately starts locking onto satellites normally. My unit is barely 18 months old and the battery should not be going bad already. Steve Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=159592#159592 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: Left OVers for Sale
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Hi Jeff, I'll take the Tempest Dry Vacuum Pump: P/N AA215CC List $340.95 Asking $250 Rapco Vacuum Regulator: P/N RA2H3-12. List $168.95 Asking $125 Airborne Gyro Filter: List $37.25 Asking $25 All for $300. If you're interested give me a call. Providing the pump will fit a O540 b4b5 that I have. According to the index I have access too it says the 540B takes a AA3215CC. I assume this is the same as the one you're selling? Chuck Weyant RV10 N805PC 805 878-1922 Santa Maria, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Linebaugh To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 8:00 PM Subject: RV-List: Left OVers for Sale Folks, I have some left over instruments and components for sale. All parts are in new condition. Drop me a line and make me an offer?! I need gas money! Airflow Performance Maintainable Fuel Filter: List $132 asking $99 Tempest Dry Vacuum Pump: P/N AA215CC List $340.95 Asking $250 Rapco Vacuum Regulator: P/N RA2H3-12. List $168.95 Asking $125 Airborne Gyro Filter: List $37.25 Asking $25. UMA Indicators: UMA 1 1/4 Fuel Qty (2) List $132 each Asking $180 for both UMA 1 1/4 Fuel PSI 0-30 PSI w/ senders and harness List $297 Asking $199 UMA 1 1/4 Fuel PSI 0-15 PSI w/ senders and harness. List $307 Asking $199 UMA 2 1/4 Manifold PSI. 10-35" Dual Diaphragm List $192 Asking $125 UMA 2 1/4 Tach. Requires Sender. Asking $125 UMA Suction List $94 Asking $69 UMA Oil Temp Probe List $63 Asking $45 Westach Dual Oil Temp/PSI: P/N 2DA3MM with Senders and Harnesses List $300 asking $225 Quartz Clock: CA-7264 List $89 Asking $59. Thanks! _________________ Jeff Linebaugh jeff@rocket-boys.com F1 "Sport" #33, 100 hours! Collierville, TN ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- 1/21/2008 9:39 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
Date: Jan 21, 2008
If your battery is dead you need to have it replaced before it leaks. Not sure what the 96 has in it, but most things these days have lithium coin cells with solder tabs on them. There are maybe a half dozzen common types. When I owned my marine electronics shop we would replace the batteries in nearly anything for about fourty bucks. Your local marine electronics shop or avionics shop should be able to do it for you. Not all shops have techs these days. Some just send everything to the factory so check with them first. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 1:18 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch). Battery should last 10 years. Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery replacer for less than $20 USD. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
Date: Jan 21, 2008
They told me $350 for the 396 but even $250 is absurd for a battery replacement. Has anyone cracked the case and determined the correct battery for it? I won't be able to open mine until the weekend. It's worth a shot at replacing it myself and if it doesn't fix it THEN send it in for the flat rate repair. Regards, Greg Young _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 12:18 PM Subject: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch). Battery should last 10 years. Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery replacer for less than $20 USD. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2008
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
If mine continues to give trouble, I might volunteer to try a field repair and post pics. -Stormy On Jan 21, 2008 1:55 PM, Brian Kraut wrote: > If your battery is dead you need to have it replaced before it leaks. > Not sure what the 96 has in it, but most things these days have lithium coin > cells with solder tabs on them. There are maybe a half dozzen common > types. When I owned my marine electronics shop we would replace the > batteries in nearly anything for about fourty bucks. Your local marine > electronics shop or avionics shop should be able to do it for you. Not all > shops have techs these days. Some just send everything to the factory so > check with them first. > > > Brian Kraut > Engineering Alternatives, Inc. > www.engalt.com > > -----Original Message----- > *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Ron Lee > *Sent:* Monday, January 21, 2008 1:18 PM > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin > > I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned > to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch). > > Battery should last 10 years. > > Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery > replacer for less than $20 USD. > > Ron Lee > > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c* > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
Date: Jan 21, 2008
From: darnpilot(at)aol.com
Ouch is right!? Mine is a 496 (18 months old, battery failed at 12 months) and if this is all the service I can expect from Garmin and their batteries, I will have to seriously reconsider any future Garmin purchase. Jeff -----Original Message----- From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com> Sent: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 2:38 pm Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin They told me $350 for the 396 but even $250 is absurd for a battery replacement. Has anyone cracked the case and determined the correct battery for it? I won't be able to open mine until the weekend. It's worth a shot at replacing it myself and if it doesn't fix it THEN send it in for the flat rate repair. ? Regards, Greg Young ? From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 12:18 PM Subject: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned to Garmin to replace the internal battery.? Cost is $250 USD (ouch). ? Battery should last 10 years. ? Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery replacer for less than $20 USD. ? Ron Lee ? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
Date: Jan 21, 2008
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
When Garmin says "flat rate" of $350 just to look at the box, the flat rate they are referencing is the rate at which your wallet will go flat. For Garmin, internally, it is known as the "bulge rate"!!! Chuck Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of darnpilot(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 2:49 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin Ouch is right! Mine is a 496 (18 months old, battery failed at 12 months) and if this is all the service I can expect from Garmin and their batteries, I will have to seriously reconsider any future Garmin purchase. Jeff -----Original Message----- From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com> Sent: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 2:38 pm Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin They told me $350 for the 396 but even $250 is absurd for a battery replacement. Has anyone cracked the case and determined the correct battery for it? I won't be able to open mine until the weekend. It's worth a shot at replacing it myself and if it doesn't fix it THEN send it in for the flat rate repair. Regards, Greg Young _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [ mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com ] On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 12:18 PM Subject: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch). Battery should last 10 years. Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery replacer for less than $20 USD. Ron Lee _____ <http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid =aolcmp00050000000003> ! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2008
From: Arthur Glaser <artglaser(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
I just spoke to garmin. Contact their aviation support section. Speak to Todd. They may repair it out of warranty. Chuck Jensen wrote: When Garmin says "flat rate" of $350 just to look at the box, the flat rate they are referencing is the rate at which your wallet will go flat. For Garmin, internally, it is known as the "bulge rate"!!! Chuck Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of darnpilot(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 2:49 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin Ouch is right! Mine is a 496 (18 months old, battery failed at 12 months) and if this is all the service I can expect from Garmin and their batteries, I will have to seriously reconsider any future Garmin purchase. Jeff -----Original Message----- From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com> Sent: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 2:38 pm Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin #AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 P.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman" } #AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 LI.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman" } #AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 DIV.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman" } #AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 A:link { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } #AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 SPAN.MsoHyperlink { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } #AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 A:visited { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } #AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } #AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 P { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 0in; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0in; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto } #AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 PRE { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Courier New" } #AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 SPAN.EmailStyle19 { COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-style-type: personal-reply } #AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 DIV.Section1 { page: Section1 } They told me $350 for the 396 but even $250 is absurd for a battery replacement. Has anyone cracked the case and determined the correct battery for it? I won't be able to open mine until the weekend. It's worth a shot at replacing it myself and if it doesn't fix it THEN send it in for the flat rate repair. Regards, Greg Young --------------------------------- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 12:18 PM Subject: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch). Battery should last 10 years. Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery replacer for less than $20 USD. Ron Lee --------------------------------- href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2008
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: nose gear + 3 blade prop
I have a Catto 3-blade and am trying to put it on an RV-6A. It hadn't occurred to me when I ordered the prop that it would make removing the lower cowl more difficult. At the moment I'm reluctant to drain the preservative oil out of my engine, so I haven't yet rotated the crankshaft at all in order to put the prop in the optimal position for cowl removal. Can those that have a 6A + a 3-blade prop advise me if they had to do to anything special to make the lower cowl removable? I have enlarged the nose gear slot in the air scoop about as far forward as possible. (Well, up to the forward plate nut that holds on the upper gear intersection fairing. Maybe there shouldn't BE a nut plate there?) Can the cowl be removed with the nose gear leg fairing in place, or does that have to be removed first? Thanks, -- Tom S., RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Tom, What I've done so far is to make mine easily removable without the nose gear fairing in place. I have already templated a bottom cover to hide my extended slot and my intersections fairing will probably attach to that. I have a three-blade MT and it is a bugger to get off carefully enough to keep from touching the prop. I take the single blade straight up (like you probably will!). I am contemplating making a lowering platform like I've seen posted somewhere I will be getting some prop blade covers soon too. Ralph ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 6:18 PM Subject: RV-List: nose gear + 3 blade prop > > I have a Catto 3-blade and am trying to put it on an RV-6A. It hadn't > occurred to me when I ordered the prop that it would make removing the > lower cowl more difficult. At the moment I'm reluctant to drain the > preservative oil out of my engine, so I haven't yet rotated the crankshaft > at all in order to put the prop in the optimal position for cowl removal. > > Can those that have a 6A + a 3-blade prop advise me if they had to do to > anything special to make the lower cowl removable? I have enlarged the > nose gear slot in the air scoop about as far forward as possible. (Well, > up to the forward plate nut that holds on the upper gear intersection > fairing. Maybe there shouldn't BE a nut plate there?) > > Can the cowl be removed with the nose gear leg fairing in place, or does > that have to be removed first? > > Thanks, > -- > Tom S., RV-6A > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2008
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
Yes, do escalate that. Their service is actually pretty good. And for a $2400 unit, I would hope that it would last longer than 12-18 months. Mine did have a problem, but they fixed it quick, under warranty, quick return, etc. I think it wasn't garmin's fault I think it was mine when I was building my new panel I probably touched a hot wire to ground. Paul Besing ----- Original Message ---- From: Arthur Glaser <artglaser(at)sbcglobal.net> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 2:53:45 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin I just spoke to garmin. Contact their aviation support section. Speak to Todd. They may repair it out of warranty. Chuck Jensen wrote: When Garmin says "flat rate" of $350 just to look at the box, the flat rate they are referencing is the rate at which your wallet will go flat. For Garmin, internally, it is known as the "bulge rate"!!! Chuck Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of darnpilot(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 2:49 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin Ouch is right! Mine is a 496 (18 months old, battery failed at 12 months) and if this is all the service I can expect from Garmin and their batteries, I will have to seriously reconsider any future Garmin purchase. Jeff -----Original Message----- From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com> Sent: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 2:38 pm Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin #AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 P.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";}#AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 LI.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";}#AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 DIV.MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";}#AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 A:link {COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;}#AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 SPAN.MsoHyperlink {COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;}#AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 A:visited {COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;}#AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed {COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;}#AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 P {FONT-SIZE:12pt;MARGIN-LEFT:0in;MARGIN-RIGHT:0in;FONT-FAMILY:"Times New Roman";} #AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 PRE {FONT-SIZE:10pt;MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Courier New";}#AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 SPAN.EmailStyle19 {COLOR:navy;FONT-FAMILY:Arial;}#AOLMsgPart_2_4f0d81d6-f2f9-438d-8039-3eeec1abb528 DIV.Section1 {} They told me $350 for the 396 but even $250 is absurd for a battery replacement. Has anyone cracked the case and determined the correct battery for it? I won't be able to open mine until the weekend. It's worth a shot at replacing it myself and if it doesn't fix it THEN send it in for the flat rate repair. Regards, Greg Young From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 12:18 PM Subject: RV-List: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin I just talked to Garmin tech support and the unit has to be returned to Garmin to replace the internal battery. Cost is $250 USD (ouch). Battery should last 10 years. Personally this should be field replaceable or by a authorized battery replacer for less than $20 USD. Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Hi Tom: I have a 6A with a Catto. Removing the lower cowl is more of a challenge than with a two blade, but still doable. I can take mine off without removing the nosegear fairing. I put a couple layers of wide masking tape on the forward edge to protect it while taking off/put on the lower cowl. I have been thinking of making a velcoed sleeve for the same purpose. I have the Fairings Etc nosegear fairing, and it covers the required deeper slot perfectly. You will learn that there is a certain angle/removal path that works best to remove the bottom cowl. Once you get that down, removal is no big deal. I would advise to have a helper for the first few tries so you don't scratch any paint. Regards, Jeff Orear RV6A N782P Peshtigo, WI ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 5:18 PM Subject: RV-List: nose gear + 3 blade prop > > I have a Catto 3-blade and am trying to put it on an RV-6A. It hadn't > occurred to me when I ordered the prop that it would make removing the > lower cowl more difficult. At the moment I'm reluctant to drain the > preservative oil out of my engine, so I haven't yet rotated the crankshaft > at all in order to put the prop in the optimal position for cowl removal. > > Can those that have a 6A + a 3-blade prop advise me if they had to do to > anything special to make the lower cowl removable? I have enlarged the > nose gear slot in the air scoop about as far forward as possible. (Well, > up to the forward plate nut that holds on the upper gear intersection > fairing. Maybe there shouldn't BE a nut plate there?) > > Can the cowl be removed with the nose gear leg fairing in place, or does > that have to be removed first? > > Thanks, > -- > Tom S., RV-6A > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop
Date: Jan 21, 2008
I tape (painters tape) both bottom blades of the prop and the upper forward portions of the lower cowl. As you lower the cowl you have to move one side of the cowl to one side, maybe move the prop a little, move that side of the cowl forwardand down then move the other prop blade away a little and it comes out. It is more difficult and I almost have to redicover the process each time. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2008
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop
It really depends on your cowl attach method. I have offset (shimmed) cowl mounts to the firewall with nutplates. With this setup, it is not required to pull forward on the cowl to drop and remove. Front comes down and slide forward. Darrell --- Jeff Orear wrote: > > > Hi Tom: I have a 6A with a Catto. Removing the > lower cowl is more of a > challenge than with a two blade, but still doable. > I can take mine off > without removing the nosegear fairing. I put a > couple layers of wide > masking tape on the forward edge to protect it while > taking off/put on the > lower cowl. I have been thinking of making a > velcoed sleeve for the same > purpose. > > I have the Fairings Etc nosegear fairing, and it > covers the required deeper > slot perfectly. > > You will learn that there is a certain angle/removal > path that works best to > remove the bottom cowl. Once you get that down, > removal is no big deal. I > would advise to have a helper for the first few > tries so you don't scratch > any paint. > > Regards, > > Jeff Orear > RV6A N782P > Peshtigo, WI > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)comcast.net> > To: > Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 5:18 PM > Subject: RV-List: nose gear + 3 blade prop > > > > > > > I have a Catto 3-blade and am trying to put it on > an RV-6A. It hadn't > > occurred to me when I ordered the prop that it > would make removing the > > lower cowl more difficult. At the moment I'm > reluctant to drain the > > preservative oil out of my engine, so I haven't > yet rotated the crankshaft > > at all in order to put the prop in the optimal > position for cowl removal. > > > > Can those that have a 6A + a 3-blade prop advise > me if they had to do to > > anything special to make the lower cowl removable? > I have enlarged the > > nose gear slot in the air scoop about as far > forward as possible. (Well, > > up to the forward plate nut that holds on the > upper gear intersection > > fairing. Maybe there shouldn't BE a nut plate > there?) > > > > Can the cowl be removed with the nose gear leg > fairing in place, or does > > that have to be removed first? > > > > Thanks, > > -- > > Tom S., RV-6A > > > > > > > > > > > > > browse > Un/Subscription, > FAQ, > > Forums! > > Admin. > > > > > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Subject: Re: Controlling defrost fans
From: mikerv6a(at)ao.com
Here is a simple two-speed fan control using an spdt switch. I'm using a fan from DigiKey, cat no. 603-1055-ND that's 80mm square and 25.4mm thick, about 3.15" x 1". It has ball bearings and relatively high airflow for its size. Rated power at 12V for this fan is 6 watts. I measured fan current at about 0.52A at 12.0 volts. The relationship between voltage and current was close to linear down to 6V, and the fan continues to run at still lower voltage. I chose 8V as a target votlage for "slow" speed, and I found fan current to be about 0.33A at this voltage. Speed of these fans is easily controlled either by providing variable voltage or by inserting a resistor in series with the fan circuit. I used a 15-ohm 10-watt resistor having an aluminum housing which includes tabs for mounting on a couple of screws. This results in about 8.5 volts on the fan with 13.5V power bus voltage. Power dissipation in this resistor is calculated to be about 1.7 watts. The reason for my "oversizing" the power rating of the resistor I selected is that the built-in mounting provision for the 10W resistor is very convenient. The resistor is DigiKey catalog no. 810F15RE-ND. (Low Speed) Resistor O--------------/\/\/\/------ / | -------------/ O (OFF) | spdt switch | w/ center-off O--------------------------- \ ------------------------------- FAN-------- (Full Speed) Mike Linse RV-6A (canopy...) Corvallis, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Subject: Re: On fuel pumps and rivets
In a message dated 01/21/2008 11:37:21 AM Central Standard Time, wnorth(at)sdccd.edu writes: Blast the fuel pump with a really brief shot of shop air, or turn on boost pump and spin engine to see if diaphragm action will open the check valves. Kinda watching the notes of fuel pump and was curious if it wasn't "possible" that you might have the "IN" connected to the "OUT" and vice-versa? These pumps can be configured either way- on the advice of a particularly astute builder of whom I enjoy the benefit of being in my circle of intelligentsia (thanks Charlie Bravo!) I ordered a pump with the in-out as out-in which allowed a routing to the carb with an improved distance from the exhaust pipes. See: _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5457_ (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5457) >From The PossumWorks in TN Mark **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Subject: Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop
In a message dated 01/21/2008 5:29:53 PM Central Standard Time, sarg314(at)comcast.net writes: Can the cowl be removed with the nose gear leg fairing in place, or does that have to be removed first? I always pull the nose leg fairing before dropping the cowl- you'll scratch that lovely paint otherwise- you mention that you've slotted it forward to a nutplate (I assume is used to attach the upper fairing). Is this a fairings-etc piece? (nice part, BTW!) If so, mayhaps you could remove the platenut at the front and install one on either side of the slot? Mark - RV-6A "Mojo" with O-320, Catto 3-blade _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/_ (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 21, 2008
Subject: Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop
In a message dated 01/21/2008 5:49:08 PM Central Standard Time, recapen(at)earthlink.net writes: I will be getting some prop blade covers soon too. Hi Ralph- I took some of the leftover outdoor deck carpeting I used for my floors and cut some pieces long enough to wrap around the prop blades- a wrap of duct tape around each end and you wind up with nifty slip-on blade protectors! I made 2 of these and have used them many times- quite handy and super-cheep! Mark **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2008
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: nose gear + 3 blade prop
Mark: Yes, the nose gear upper intersection fairing is one I made myself. Not thinking about the prop, I put 2 nut plates on each side and one forward to hold it on. If I remove that forward one and put one to each side of it, I could extend the slot only another 3/4 inch forward before it would extend out past the margin of the fairing. I might need more mods in this area. Ugh! Fiberglass. Fiveonepw(at)aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 01/21/2008 5:29:53 PM Central Standard Time, > sarg314(at)comcast.net writes: > > > Can the cowl be removed with the nose gear leg fairing in place, or > does > that have to be removed first? > > I always pull the nose leg fairing before dropping the cowl- you'll > scratch that lovely paint otherwise- you mention that you've slotted it > forward to a nutplate (I assume is used to attach the upper > fairing). Is this a fairings-etc piece? (nice part, BTW!) If > so, mayhaps you could remove the platenut at the front and install one > on either side of the slot? > > Mark - RV-6A "Mojo" with O-320, Catto 3-blade ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
Date: Jan 22, 2008
I might volunteer to try a field repair and post pics. Perhaps it would help to determione a test to see if the internal battery is the problem. Also determine if Garmin will replace the battery for much less that $250 or $350 as someone suggested. As for the internal battery test, perhaps make sure that the date and time are correct by going outside and getting a good lock. Then go inside, remove the AA batteries, let it sit for 30 minutes or so. Then replace the batteries and with the unit under a desk or similar to prevent signal acquisition, check the date/time. If not within a few seconds of the correct value...suspect the internal battery. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2008
From: "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Garmin 296/396 losing location - Talked to Garmin
No need to hide under a desk; just remove the quadrifilar antenna and she's blind. On Jan 22, 2008 10:28 AM, Ron Lee wrote: > I might volunteer to try a field repair and post pics. > > > Perhaps it would help to determione a test to see if the internal battery > is the problem. > > Also determine if Garmin will replace the battery for much less that $250 > or $350 as > someone suggested. > > As for the internal battery test, perhaps make sure that the date and time > are correct > by going outside and getting a good lock. Then go inside, remove the AA > batteries, > let it sit for 30 minutes or so. Then replace the batteries and with the > unit under a desk > or similar to prevent signal acquisition, check the date/time. If not > within a few seconds > of the correct value...suspect the internal battery. > > Ron Lee > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 22, 2008
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Spot PLB was: Cheaper 406mhz alternative
Thanks Larry James for the PIREP on "SPOT". The only thing is you need someone to receive the email alerts and be expecting you. The cost of an Artex 406ME is $1000. A PLB is about $600 to $700, so I don't see the big expense difference. Don't wait for "D" battery 406ELTs because batteries are cheaper. All new 406 elts will have battery packs. Yes they cost more, but with a 5yr life, the yearly cost is not bad. As more companies compete price will become lower for base unites, but bats will cost more. Better than PLB are the EPIRB? These are rescue beacons that are not "Personal" or meant to be portable. They are larger and tend to work in water, some (not all) even have hydro- switch activation, aka they're for boats. They look like more "serious" ELT's than a PLB. The cost, depending on manufacture and model is about the same as a PLB. Google 406 EPIRB: http://www.landfallnavigation.com/-slb24.html PLB's have small batteries and small antennas. Their capabilities are less than a solid mounted aviation 406 ELT . I love the PLB idea and think it could save your life, just that they are not quite as powerful as the full meal deal aviation ELT's. (Yes they claim the same power but the portable antenna is a big draw back). That is why I think the larger battery and antenna on the EPIRB's will be better in my opinion. Still no G-switch. Modify a PLB with a G switch? I guess you could, but suspect that might violate some of the international SAR communities rules. The BIG problem with the old ELT's where faults alarms. If you have a faults alarm with a modified G-switch PLB there might be some fines to pay. George >From: "Larry James" >Subject: RV-List: Spot PLB was: Cheaper 406mhz >alternative >We have the Spot and used it this weekend. We had >the first non-raining day >in quite some time and so took advantage of the >situation and went flying. >My wife was in the backseat; initiated some alerts >from the Spot; and >received email notices on her Blackberry with time, >location and the >message. Everything worked as it is supposed to. --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Spot PLB was: Cheaper 406mhz alternative
Date: Jan 22, 2008
Thanks Larry James for the PIREP on "SPOT". The only thing is you need someone to receive the email alerts and be expecting you. Response: There is a HELP function that should not rely upon someone you know. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Step crack
Date: Jan 23, 2008
While preparing for the condition inspection I noticed an unusual amount of movement in the pilot's side step on my 6A. Checking it out I found a crack on the inside just under the weld that connects the long portion of the step to the plate that attaches to the fuselage. Yesterday I drilled out the rivets and will remove the step to be rewelded and somehow have that area reinforced. I saw another occurrence of this on the Vans website so people installing these steps should consider reinforcing that area before installation. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: Step crack
Date: Jan 23, 2008
This IS a big problem. Van's says they don't hear anything, therefore there isn't a problem as far as they're concerned. I beg to disagree with them. I had one step crack in the same identical spot as yours Lee (I built a 9A). Called Van's, Scott says, "Hmmm, news to me. We haven't heard of any problems with cracks." Next day a fellow "nine" driver came over with TWO cracked steps in hand off his "nine". Said Van's said the same thing to him. He ordered two additional new steps from Van's and sent them pics of the steps. A week later a "Six driver" from the other side of the airport showed up with a cracked step. All this from one little 'ol airport. Not a problem? I took it out and delivered it to a big time welding shop here on the Central Coast (Santa Maria,CA). I asked if it could be repaired, and would he reinforce it somehow? He studied the step and said he wouldn't recommend reinforcing it as making it too stiff might encourage it to crack again even quicker in a different spot. Something to do with the type of steel, thickness, and angles of attachment combined with load forces. Stuff I didn't really understand. He rewelded it from front to aft underside. I had it repowder coated and I reinstalled it. It's been more than a year ago and it's still fine. One thing I do do is to use a stool to gain access to the cockpit while in the hanger avoiding the steps altogether if possible. Chuck RV10 Finishing up the Fuselage. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron Lee To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 6:33 AM Subject: RV-List: Step crack While preparing for the condition inspection I noticed an unusual amount of movement in the pilot's side step on my 6A. Checking it out I found a crack on the inside just under the weld that connects the long portion of the step to the plate that attaches to the fuselage. Yesterday I drilled out the rivets and will remove the step to be rewelded and somehow have that area reinforced. I saw another occurrence of this on the Vans website so people installing these steps should consider reinforcing that area before installation. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net>
Subject: Re: Step crack
Date: Jan 23, 2008
I reinforced the steps in my -9A with .040 inside the fuselage. I attached a photo. However, the cracks you guys are describing are sounding like weld failures. Bret Smith RV-9A "Canopy" Blue Ridge, GA www.FlightInnovations.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Chuck Weyant To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 1:08 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Step crack This IS a big problem. Van's says they don't hear anything, therefore there isn't a problem as far as they're concerned. I beg to disagree with them. I had one step crack in the same identical spot as yours Lee (I built a 9A). Called Van's, Scott says, "Hmmm, news to me. We haven't heard of any problems with cracks." Next day a fellow "nine" driver came over with TWO cracked steps in hand off his "nine". Said Van's said the same thing to him. He ordered two additional new steps from Van's and sent them pics of the steps. A week later a "Six driver" from the other side of the airport showed up with a cracked step. All this from one little 'ol airport. Not a problem? I took it out and delivered it to a big time welding shop here on the Central Coast (Santa Maria,CA). I asked if it could be repaired, and would he reinforce it somehow? He studied the step and said he wouldn't recommend reinforcing it as making it too stiff might encourage it to crack again even quicker in a different spot. Something to do with the type of steel, thickness, and angles of attachment combined with load forces. Stuff I didn't really understand. He rewelded it from front to aft underside. I had it repowder coated and I reinstalled it. It's been more than a year ago and it's still fine. One thing I do do is to use a stool to gain access to the cockpit while in the hanger avoiding the steps altogether if possible. Chuck RV10 Finishing up the Fuselage. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron Lee To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 6:33 AM Subject: RV-List: Step crack While preparing for the condition inspection I noticed an unusual amount of movement in the pilot's side step on my 6A. Checking it out I found a crack on the inside just under the weld that connects the long portion of the step to the plate that attaches to the fuselage. Yesterday I drilled out the rivets and will remove the step to be rewelded and somehow have that area reinforced. I saw another occurrence of this on the Vans website so people installing these steps should consider reinforcing that area before installation. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Step crack
Date: Jan 23, 2008
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
Chuck, You make a good point. Metals, metallurgy and materials science is far more complex and requires a level of sophistication that even knowledgeable homebuilders and experimenters are unlikely to have. As they say, it is an art all by itself. When done properly the selection of metals, attachment and structure configuration is a dizzying array of possibilities to arrive at a design that is inexpensive, strong, durable and manufacturable. When done well, we never even notice. Chuck Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 1:08 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Step crack This IS a big problem. Van's says they don't hear anything, therefore there isn't a problem as far as they're concerned. I beg to disagree with them. I had one step crack in the same identical spot as yours Lee (I built a 9A). Called Van's, Scott says, "Hmmm, news to me. We haven't heard of any problems with cracks." Next day a fellow "nine" driver came over with TWO cracked steps in hand off his "nine". Said Van's said the same thing to him. He ordered two additional new steps from Van's and sent them pics of the steps. A week later a "Six driver" from the other side of the airport showed up with a cracked step. All this from one little 'ol airport. Not a problem? I took it out and delivered it to a big time welding shop here on the Central Coast (Santa Maria,CA). I asked if it could be repaired, and would he reinforce it somehow? He studied the step and said he wouldn't recommend reinforcing it as making it too stiff might encourage it to crack again even quicker in a different spot. Something to do with the type of steel, thickness, and angles of attachment combined with load forces. Stuff I didn't really understand. He rewelded it from front to aft underside. I had it repowder coated and I reinstalled it. It's been more than a year ago and it's still fine. One thing I do do is to use a stool to gain access to the cockpit while in the hanger avoiding the steps altogether if possible. Chuck RV10 Finishing up the Fuselage. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron Lee <mailto:ronlee(at)pcisys.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 6:33 AM Subject: RV-List: Step crack While preparing for the condition inspection I noticed an unusual amount of movement in the pilot's side step on my 6A. Checking it out I found a crack on the inside just under the weld that connects the long portion of the step to the plate that attaches to the fuselage. Yesterday I drilled out the rivets and will remove the step to be rewelded and somehow have that area reinforced. I saw another occurrence of this on the Vans website so people installing these steps should consider reinforcing that area before installation. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 23, 2008
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Step crack
4130 really is a poor choice of material for the step, the high carbon content of 4130 makes it far less ductile than other common materials such as 304 stainless. In other words, 4130 is far less tolerant of flexing. I have a source that makes streamline tubing out of 304, wouldn't be hard to make the step out of it. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On Jan 23, 2008 9:33 AM, Ron Lee wrote: > While preparing for the condition inspection I noticed an unusual amount > of movement in the pilot's side step on my 6A. Checking it out I found a > crack on the inside just under the weld that connects the long portion of > the step to the plate that attaches to the fuselage. > > Yesterday I drilled out the rivets and will remove the step to be rewelded > and somehow have that area reinforced. > > I saw another occurrence of this on the Vans website so people installing > these steps should consider reinforcing that area before installation. > > Ron Lee > > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Step crack
Date: Jan 23, 2008
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Miles Towner the former Quality Control individual at VANS left when Ken Krueger saw no need for such service. He now works with me at Horizon Airlines in Portland. Eddy Current testing is not difficult to find through GA sources. Sounds like a clear pattern of failed welds is beginning to surface. It beckons the question, "What date was receipt of the step received by the builder". Maybe this is an old issue for parts shipped more than three years ago. John Cox RV10 ________________________________ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 10:08 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Step crack This IS a big problem. Van's says they don't hear anything, therefore there isn't a problem as far as they're concerned. I beg to disagree with them. I had one step crack in the same identical spot as yours Lee (I built a 9A). Called Van's, Scott says, "Hmmm, news to me. We haven't heard of any problems with cracks." Next day a fellow "nine" driver came over with TWO cracked steps in hand off his "nine". Said Van's said the same thing to him. He ordered two additional new steps from Van's and sent them pics of the steps. A week later a "Six driver" from the other side of the airport showed up with a cracked step. All this from one little 'ol airport. Not a problem? I took it out and delivered it to a big time welding shop here on the Central Coast (Santa Maria,CA). I asked if it could be repaired, and would he reinforce it somehow? He studied the step and said he wouldn't recommend reinforcing it as making it too stiff might encourage it to crack again even quicker in a different spot. Something to do with the type of steel, thickness, and angles of attachment combined with load forces. Stuff I didn't really understand. He rewelded it from front to aft underside. I had it repowder coated and I reinstalled it. It's been more than a year ago and it's still fine. One thing I do do is to use a stool to gain access to the cockpit while in the hanger avoiding the steps altogether if possible. Chuck RV10 Finishing up the Fuselage. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron Lee <mailto:ronlee(at)pcisys.net> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 6:33 AM Subject: RV-List: Step crack While preparing for the condition inspection I noticed an unusual amount of movement in the pilot's side step on my 6A. Checking it out I found a crack on the inside just under the weld that connects the long portion of the step to the plate that attaches to the fuselage. Yesterday I drilled out the rivets and will remove the step to be rewelded and somehow have that area reinforced. I saw another occurrence of this on the Vans website so people installing these steps should consider reinforcing that area before installation. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Step crack
Date: Jan 23, 2008
My best recollection is that I installed the step in 2005, probably in the first six months of 2005 Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Step crack
Date: Jan 23, 2008
Post us a picture if you can Ron, or anybody else who has had this problem. DaveB RV6 _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 6:34 AM Subject: RV-List: Step crack While preparing for the condition inspection I noticed an unusual amount of movement in the pilot's side step on my 6A. Checking it out I found a crack on the inside just under the weld that connects the long portion of the step to the plate that attaches to the fuselage. Yesterday I drilled out the rivets and will remove the step to be rewelded and somehow have that area reinforced. I saw another occurrence of this on the Vans website so people installing these steps should consider reinforcing that area before installation. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Step crack
Date: Jan 23, 2008
Here it is. This is on the inside of the step just under the weld. http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/StepCrack1Small.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: "News to me!"
From: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Date: Jan 24, 2008
> cracked my canopy on my -6A because there is one hole that many, many > people have drilled on the side skirt that will crack the canopy. I > just didn't think my conditions would crack because of shop > temperature, amount of pressure on the curve, etc. Well, it did crack > and I wasn't going to have a 3" crack on a brand new airplane. Told > van's to make that hole not shown to be drilled on the plans Which particular hole is that? Slider or Tipup? Timely info for me. Doug Gray ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2008
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Subject: Re: Step crack
This is not just an isolated problem. My RV-6A steps both cracked. Kit shipped in about 1995, first flight 1999, cracks occurred at approximately 500 hours. -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 999 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction Chuck Weyant wrote: > This IS a big problem. Van's says they don't hear anything, therefore > there isn't a problem as far as they're concerned. I beg to disagree > with them. I had one step crack in the same identical spot as yours > Lee (I built a 9A). Called Van's, Scott says, "Hmmm, news to me. We > haven't heard of any problems with cracks." > > Next day a fellow "nine" driver came over with TWO cracked steps in > hand off his "nine". Said Van's said the same thing to him. He > ordered two additional new steps from Van's and sent them pics of the > steps. A week later a "Six driver" from the other side of the airport > showed up with a cracked step. All this from one little 'ol airport. > Not a problem? > > I took it out and delivered it to a big time welding shop here on the > Central Coast (Santa Maria,CA). I asked if it could be repaired, and > would he reinforce it somehow? He studied the step and said he > wouldn't recommend reinforcing it as making it too stiff might > encourage it to crack again even quicker in a different spot. > Something to do with the type of steel, thickness, and angles of > attachment combined with load forces. Stuff I didn't really understand. > > He rewelded it from front to aft underside. I had it repowder coated > and I reinstalled it. It's been more than a year ago and it's still > fine. One thing I do do is to use a stool to gain access to the > cockpit while in the hanger avoiding the steps altogether if possible. > Chuck > RV10 Finishing up the Fuselage. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > *From:* Ron Lee > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 23, 2008 6:33 AM > *Subject:* RV-List: Step crack > > While preparing for the condition inspection I noticed an unusual > amount > of movement in the pilot's side step on my 6A. Checking it out I > found a > crack on the inside just under the weld that connects the long > portion of > the step to the plate that attaches to the fuselage. > > Yesterday I drilled out the rivets and will remove the step to be > rewelded > and somehow have that area reinforced. > > I saw another occurrence of this on the Vans website so people > installing > these steps should consider reinforcing that area before installation. > > Ron Lee > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2008
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: "News to me!"
Tipup canopy, the forward most hole on the side skirt. It's right where there is a compound curve where the canopy curves from the top and around the front. The second time around I allowed that skirt to pucker just a hair. When the fiberglass fairing was completed, I was able to adjust for that pucker of the top of the side skirt. Paul Besing ----- Original Message ---- From: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 12:39:14 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: "News to me!" > cracked my canopy on my -6A because there is one hole that many, many > people have drilled on the side skirt that will crack the canopy. I > just didn't think my conditions would crack because of shop > temperature, amount of pressure on the curve, etc. Well, it did crack > and I wasn't going to have a 3" crack on a brand new airplane. Told > van's to make that hole not shown to be drilled on the plans Which particular hole is that? Slider or Tipup? Timely info for me. Doug Gray Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Step crack
Date: Jan 24, 2008
Another reason I'm glad I used nutplates on my baggage floor. Looks like checking this location needs to be part of the annual _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 8:50 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Step crack Here it is. This is on the inside of the step just under the weld. http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/StepCrack1Small.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Data plate questions
Does anyone have a link to a document that states the minimum requirements for the Airframe Data plate? All the government documents that I've found so far are gibberish and refer to the engine. I know that some kit manufacturers sell data plates for the individual builder to have engraved and install and I have seen them in use so they must meet some minimum requirements. What I'm specifically interested in is the requirement for accuracy of the date of manufacture. My airframe is built and registered - but not yet declared airworthy. I need to have the plate installed prior to airworthiness inspection - so I'll need to have it engraved prior....what data do I put there? Thanks, Ralph Working on the million little things...... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <brucebell74(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Step crack
Date: Jan 24, 2008
The step might be designed for the standard FAA 170 pound person. And can't take any extra "G's". Bruce Bell RV-4 N23BB ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Collins To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 8:03 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Step crack Another reason I'm glad I used nutplates on my baggage floor. Looks like checking this location needs to be part of the annual ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 8:50 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Step crack Here it is. This is on the inside of the step just under the weld. http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/StepCrack1Small.jpg href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Subject: Data plate questions
Date: Jan 24, 2008
I just put the month and year I anticipated the inspection to be within. The DAR never even looked at it. Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 8:11 AM > To: rv-list > Subject: RV-List: Data plate questions > > > Does anyone have a link to a document that states the minimum requirements > for the Airframe Data plate? > > All the government documents that I've found so far are gibberish and > refer to the engine. I know that some kit manufacturers sell data plates > for the individual builder to have engraved and install and I have seen > them in use so they must meet some minimum requirements. > > What I'm specifically interested in is the requirement for accuracy of the > date of manufacture. My airframe is built and registered - but not yet > declared airworthy. I need to have the plate installed prior to > airworthiness inspection - so I'll need to have it engraved prior....what > data do I put there? > > Thanks, > Ralph > Working on the million little things...... > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Step crack
Date: Jan 24, 2008
Exactly Bob. When I installed my step as a retrofit I added nutplates and was glad I did since you need to access that area to replace the step. My plan is to have the step rewelded and maybe reinforced. Since many have had this same problem, what did you do and what would you suggest that I do in this situation? Ron Lee Another reason I'm glad I used nutplates on my baggage floor. Looks like checking this l ocation needs to be part of the annual ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Data plate questions
Ralph E. Capen wrote: > >Does anyone have a link to a document that states the minimum requirements for the Airframe Data plate? > >All the government documents that I've found so far are gibberish and refer to the engine. I know that some kit manufacturers sell data plates for the individual builder to have engraved and install and I have seen them in use so they must meet some minimum requirements. > >What I'm specifically interested in is the requirement for accuracy of the date of manufacture. My airframe is built and registered - but not yet declared airworthy. I need to have the plate installed prior to airworthiness inspection - so I'll need to have it engraved prior....what data do I put there? > With no data to support it (nothing I could find at the time), I used the date that the airplane was 'finished' and ready for inspection. Linn > >Thanks, >Ralph >Working on the million little things...... > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Step crack
Date: Jan 24, 2008
I don=92t know if it will make a difference, but the new ones don=92t look like this. On my 7A steps the metal plate extends about a =BC=94 below the tube where it goes through it. Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 <http://www.newventureconsulting.com> www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell(at)gforcecable.com _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 9:50 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Step crack Here it is. This is on the inside of the step just under the weld. http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/StepCrack1Small.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net>
Subject: Re: Step crack
Date: Jan 24, 2008
Here is a shot of my step. 2007 vintage with the lower flange. http://www.flightinnovations.com/images/fuselage/070826j.jpg Bret Smith RV-9A "Canopy" Blue Ridge, GA www.FlightInnovations.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Carl Bell To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 10:16 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Step crack I don't know if it will make a difference, but the new ones don't look like this. On my 7A steps the metal plate extends about a =BC" below the tube where it goes through it. Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell(at)gforcecable.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 9:50 PM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Step crack Here it is. This is on the inside of the step just under the weld. http://home.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/StepCrack1Small.jpg http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Data plate questions
Date: Jan 24, 2008
From: passpat(at)aol.com
Builders name/manufacture Model as RV-7-A Serial number? xxxx -----Original Message----- From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 10:06 am Subject: Re: RV-List: Data plate questions ? Ralph E. Capen wrote:? ? >? >Does anyone have a link to a document that states the minimum requirements for the Airframe Data plate?? >? >All the government documents that I've found so far are gibberish and refer to the engine. I know that some kit manufacturers sell data plates for the individual builder to have engraved and install and I have seen them in use so they must meet some minimum requirements.? >? >What I'm specifically interested in is the requirement for accuracy of the date of manufacture. My airframe is built and registered - but not yet declared airworthy. I need to have the plate installed prior to airworthiness inspection - so I'll need to have it engraved prior....what data do I put there?? >? With no data to support it (nothing I could find at the time), I used the date that the airplane was 'finished' and ready for inspection.? Linn? ? >? >Thanks,? >Ralph? >Working on the million little things......? >? >? >? >? >? >? >? > >? ? ? ? ? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: Step crack
Date: Jan 24, 2008
I don't think the problem is inside, its exterior. No need for all the nutplates and added labor. To remove the step for repair, all I did was cut a 5 inch square hole in the baggage floor over the plastic block, bolt and nut of the step unit. Removed the bolt, made the repair to the step, reinstalled and fastened a new cover plate over the baggage floor cutout. Easy. And if it happens again, access will even be quicker with only two or four screws to remove to gain access. Chuck Subject: RE: RV-List: Step crack Another reason I'm glad I used nutplates on my baggage floor. Looks like checking this location needs to be part of the annual ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Step crack
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: Jan 24, 2008
[quote="chuck(at)chuckdirect.com"]I don't think the problem is inside, its exterior. No need for all the nutplates and added labor. [quote] I can't speak for others but it looks like the crack is along the weld. On my installation, I increased the hole slightly to accomodate the weld and provide a more flush fit. So it is visible from inside. Otherwise you'd have to remove the step for inspection since -- as I understand it -- the troublesome spot would be covered by the square plate. That's the way I viewed the photo that was uploaded anyway. -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. Letters from Flyover Country http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160275#160275 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2008
From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Data plate questions
Model Manufacturer Ser # Thats all I have. Scott Bilinski RV-8a ----- Original Message ---- From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 6:39:08 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Data plate questions I just put the month and year I anticipated the inspection to be within. The DAR never even looked at it. Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 8:11 AM > To: rv-list > Subject: RV-List: Data plate questions > > > Does anyone have a link to a document that states the minimum requirements > for the Airframe Data plate? > > All the government documents that I've found so far are gibberish and > refer to the engine. I know that some kit manufacturers sell data plates > for the individual builder to have engraved and install and I have seen > them in use so they must meet some minimum requirements. > > What I'm specifically interested in is the requirement for accuracy of the > date of manufacture. My airframe is built and registered - but not yet > declared airworthy. I need to have the plate installed prior to > airworthiness inspection - so I'll need to have it engraved prior....what > data do I put there? > > Thanks, > Ralph > Working on the million little things...... > > > > Looking for last minute shopping deals? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2008
From: Carlos Hernandez <carlosh(at)structuralaz.com>
Subject: Re: Data plate questions
Question about serial #'s.... I've "heard" here and there that FAA wants the serial # to match the builders number. I don't think is is that way but It shouldn't matter if I wanted to register with serial # 17BYLOS does it? Carlos in AZ STILL saving money for the -7A wings scott bilinski wrote: > > Model > Manufacturer > Ser # > > Thats all I have. > > Scott Bilinski > RV-8a > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 6:39:08 AM > Subject: RE: RV-List: Data plate questions > > > I just put the month and year I anticipated the inspection to be within. > The DAR never even looked at it. > > Tim > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen >> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 8:11 AM >> To: rv-list >> Subject: RV-List: Data plate questions >> >> >> Does anyone have a link to a document that states the minimum requirements >> for the Airframe Data plate? >> >> All the government documents that I've found so far are gibberish and >> refer to the engine. I know that some kit manufacturers sell data plates >> for the individual builder to have engraved and install and I have seen >> them in use so they must meet some minimum requirements. >> >> What I'm specifically interested in is the requirement for accuracy of the >> date of manufacture. My airframe is built and registered - but not yet >> declared airworthy. I need to have the plate installed prior to >> airworthiness inspection - so I'll need to have it engraved prior....what >> data do I put there? >> >> Thanks, >> Ralph >> Working on the million little things...... >> >> >> >> >> > > > Looking for last minute shopping deals? > > > -- Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com> Structural Engineers Company 2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3 Chandler, AZ 85224 Phone: 480.968.8600 Fax: 480.968.8608 www.sec-engr.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged. This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email from your system. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2008
From: Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net>
Subject: Re: Data plate questions
Shouldn't make a rat's butt of difference. It just has to be unique within the system Scott http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ Gotta Fly or Gonna Die Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) Carlos Hernandez wrote: > > > Question about serial #'s.... > I've "heard" here and there that FAA wants the serial # to match the > builders number. I don't think is is that way but It shouldn't matter > if I wanted to register with serial # 17BYLOS does it? > > Carlos in AZ > STILL saving money for the -7A wings > > scott bilinski wrote: > >> >> Model >> Manufacturer >> Ser # >> Thats all I have. >> >> Scott Bilinski >> RV-8a >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ---- >> From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 6:39:08 AM >> Subject: RE: RV-List: Data plate questions >> >> >> I just put the month and year I anticipated the inspection to be within. >> The DAR never even looked at it. >> >> Tim >> >> >> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >>> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen >>> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 8:11 AM >>> To: rv-list >>> Subject: RV-List: Data plate questions >>> >>> >>> Does anyone have a link to a document that states the minimum >>> requirements >>> for the Airframe Data plate? >>> >>> All the government documents that I've found so far are gibberish and >>> refer to the engine. I know that some kit manufacturers sell data >>> plates >>> for the individual builder to have engraved and install and I have seen >>> them in use so they must meet some minimum requirements. >>> >>> What I'm specifically interested in is the requirement for accuracy >>> of the >>> date of manufacture. My airframe is built and registered - but not yet >>> declared airworthy. I need to have the plate installed prior to >>> airworthiness inspection - so I'll need to have it engraved >>> prior....what >>> data do I put there? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Ralph >>> Working on the million little things...... >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Looking for last minute shopping deals? >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Data plate questions
Date: Jan 25, 2008
http://www.rvdar.com/FAR_45.htm Permanent attached Fireproof Data Plate with Builder's Name (Make), Model Designation, and Builder's Serial Number. The above info MUST match the registration info that is on the 8050-3 that comes from Oklahoma City. The MODEL and Serial Number can be anything that you like but the only mode l with the serial number that you assign. If your aircraft is an RV-?, then it is best to use the builder's number that Van's assigned. IF you purchas e a kit from Van but register it as "YOUR NAME Special", the S/N can be any thing you want or the number that Van assigned. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 2,077 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA > Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 09:10:55 -0500 > From: recapen(at)earthlink.net > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Data plate questions > > > Does anyone have a link to a document that states the minimum requirement s for the Airframe Data plate? > > All the government documents that I've found so far are gibberish and ref er to the engine. I know that some kit manufacturers sell data plates for the individual builder to have engraved and install and I have seen them in use so they must meet some minimum requirements. > > What I'm specifically interested in is the requirement for accuracy of th e date of manufacture. My airframe is built and registered - but not yet d eclared airworthy. I need to have the plate installed prior to airworthine ss inspection - so I'll need to have it engraved prior....what data do I pu t there? > > Thanks, > Ralph > Working on the million little things...... > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts!-Play the word scramble challenge with sta r power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_ja n ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 2008
From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Data plate questions
Hi Carlos- RE: Question about serial #'s.... >I've "heard" here and there that FAA wants the serial # to match the >builders number. I don't think is is that way but It shouldn't matter if >I wanted to register with serial # 17BYLOS does it? Actually, the fed DOES want you to use van's type designation and serial number. They want it that way so that it is easier to compile accident / safety stats. Apparently, making a note in their report that the Whiz-Bang 5000 was actually kitted as an RV-x is more than they can achieve. However, the pertinent thing here is that they WANT you to do that. You don't HAVE to do that. You may wonder how I know this.... ;-) Glen Matejcek ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 2008
From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Data plate questions
Hi Carlos- RE: Question about serial #'s.... >I've "heard" here and there that FAA wants the serial # to match the >builders number. I don't think is is that way but It shouldn't matter if >I wanted to register with serial # 17BYLOS does it? Actually, the fed DOES want you to use van's type designation and serial number. They want it that way so that it is easier to compile accident / safety stats. Apparently, making a note in their report that the Whiz-Bang 5000 was actually kitted as an RV-x is more than they can achieve. However, the pertinent thing here is that they WANT you to do that. You don't HAVE to do that. You may wonder how I know this.... ;-) Glen Matejcek ________________________________________________________________________________
From: emrath(at)comcast.net
Subject: Rv: Rv-list Step Crack
Date: Jan 25, 2008
Looks like I'll regret having put the flange on the inside of the side skin. :>( Marty in Brentwood TN RV-6A not flying yet. From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Step crack I don't think the problem is inside, its exterior. No need for all the nutplates and added labor. To remove the step for repair, all I did was cut a 5 inch square hole in the baggage floor over the plastic block, bolt and nut of the step unit. Removed the bolt, made the repair to the step, reinstalled and fastened a new cover plate over the baggage floor cutout. Easy. And if it happens again, access will even be quicker with only two or four screws to remove to gain access. Chuck Subject: RE: RV-List: Step crack Another reason I'm glad I used nutplates on my baggage floor. Looks like checking this location needs to be part of the annual
Looks like I'll regret having put the flange on the inside of the side skin. :>(

Marty in Brentwood TN RV-6A not flying yet.

s
like checking this location needs to be part of the annual

________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rv: Rv-list Step Crack
Date: Jan 25, 2008
You may not Marty. I put the flange on the inside of my Rv-6A back in 1997 and as of yet, have not had any crack problems. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: emrath(at)comcast.net To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 3:17 PM Subject: RV-List: Rv: Rv-list Step Crack Looks like I'll regret having put the flange on the inside of the side skin. :>( Marty in Brentwood TN RV-6A not flying yet. From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Step crack I don't think the problem is inside, its exterior. No need for all the nutplates and added labor. To remove the step for repair, all I did was cut a 5 inch square hole in the baggage floor over the plastic block, bolt and nut of the step unit. Removed the bolt, made the repair to the step, reinstalled and fastened a new cover plate over the baggage floor cutout. Easy. And if it happens again, access will even be quicker with only two or four screws to remove to gain access. Chuck Subject: RE: RV-List: Step crack Another reason I'm glad I used nutplates on my baggage floor. Look s like checking this location needs to be part of the annual ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: The FAA, County of Regsistration,Zip Code and Taxes
From: "NationAir" <dmccoy(at)nationair.com>
Date: Jan 25, 2008
Ed - Excellent point. The FAA updates there records much faster now and it is very important to check to see they get it right. This includes your airman record. About 2 years ago they started "red flagging" registrations that were not completed properly. If a registration is incomplete or has an error they will attach a warning on it. I think (not confirmed) they require any inconsistencies to be cleared up or you could face a violation - not sure how severe, but possible. While we are on the topic of registrations, everyone should also remember the name and address on your registration should match your insurance policy. It makes it that much easier in the event of a claim or loss. $0.02 from the insurance guy. -------- David McCoy Branch Manager Light Aircraft Division NationAir Aviation Insurance www.nationair.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=160493#160493 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 25, 2008
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: The FAA, County of Regsistration,Zip Code and Taxes
On 14:32 2008-01-25 "Tim Bryan" wrote: > I just checked mine and sure enough they have the wrong county on > mine as well. My address is actually the neighbor town where the > post office is, but I actually live in a different town and county. Make sure the correct one has a lower tax rate before you switch... :) -Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: The FAA, County of Regsistration,Zip Code and Taxes
Date: Jan 25, 2008
-List message posted by: "Rob Prior" > > On 14:32 2008-01-25 "Tim Bryan" wrote: >> I just checked mine and sure enough they have the wrong county on >> mine as well. My address is actually the neighbor town where the >> post office is, but I actually live in a different town and county. > > Make sure the correct one has a lower tax rate before you switch... :) > > -Rob > A good point Rob, had not the county I resided in with my aircraft not had a much lower tax rate - I, urhmm... might not been as vigorous in having the record corrected {:>). But, ultimately, you could have two tax authorities after your $$$. In several local counties, the local government has sent forms to each airport manager requiring them to list all aircraft that reside on the airport. My airport manager recently received such a form and apparently feels legally bound to comply with it. Ed ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Data plate questions
Date: Jan 25, 2008
Ralph, Per FAR 45 there are only three things required on the airframe dataplate. The Make, model, and serial number are those three things. Anything else is up to you. Mike Robertson Das Fed > Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 09:10:55 -0500> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net> To: r v-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV-List: Data plate questions> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" > > Does anyone have a link to a document that states the minimum requirements for the Air frame Data plate?> > All the government documents that I've found so far ar e gibberish and refer to the engine. I know that some kit manufacturers sel l data plates for the individual builder to have engraved and install and I have seen them in use so they must meet some minimum requirements.> > What I'm specifically interested in is the requirement for accuracy of the date of manufacture. My airframe is built and registered - but not yet declared airworthy. I need to have the plate installed prior to airworthiness inspe ction - so I'll need to have it engraved prior....what data do I put there? ====================> > > _________________________________________________________________ Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail=AE-get yo ur "fix". http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "mbick" <mbick(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: The FAA, County of Regsistration,Zip Code and Taxes
Date: Jan 26, 2008
> -Rob > A good point Rob, had not the county I resided in with my aircraft not had a much lower tax rate - I, urhmm... might not been as vigorous in having the record corrected {:>). But, ultimately, you could have two tax authorities after your $$$. In several local counties, the local government has sent forms to each airport manager requiring them to list all aircraft that reside on the airport. My airport manager recently received such a form and apparently feels legally bound to comply with it. Ed I know the evil airport manager Ed refers to .. :) Yes sadly I am legally bound to report it or the airport is responsible for the taxes plus 250 fine for each occurrence. I Like Ed for he is a very likable person but I don't like him so much so that I want to pay his taxes for him. When I received notice I was at first dumbfounded then I was PISSED. I thought why is it I have to do the county's dirty work? I called a lawyer and I contacted a federal authority for surely this insanity could not be true. They both said yes and pointed to the NC statue (G.S.105-316 subsection a 3) and the fact that it has been upheld since the 50's. Like boat storage owners and mobile home parks, the county doesn't want you to hide your assets and wants their money. The Irony in this, you realize a Private Airport Owner has to collect information for and pay taxes that will not be providing any assistance to the private owner and to be used to compete against them making all but impossible to run a private/public airport unless they have owned the land for years. But that is a whole other thread and I am sure Private Airport owners are not alone. I went on to contact the county tax manager explaining to her that there was no need for me to supply that, for the information was already there and she told me: "I don't have access to that". I explained to her everyone has access to that. The FAA puts the information (albeit sometimes incorrect) up on their web site for everyone to query. She said that is not the way they do it and to send in the hand written form they sent to me. I hated doing so for I caught a lot of grief from a few for asking for it, some flat out refused to do so. I can't blame them for it is really none of my business but the government makes me do so. So Ed I apologize for that. :) Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: The FAA, County of Regsistration,Zip Code and Taxes
Date: Jan 26, 2008
No Problem, Mike. If I did refer to the "Evil" airport manager it was an unintentionally slip {:>) - actually, our airport manage is not a bad guy - even if he wouldn't pay my taxes. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: mbick To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 9:32 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: The FAA, County of Regsistration,Zip Code and Taxes > -Rob > A good point Rob, had not the county I resided in with my aircraft not had a much lower tax rate - I, urhmm... might not been as vigorous in having the record corrected {:>). But, ultimately, you could have two tax authorities after your $$$. In several local counties, the local government has sent forms to each airport manager requiring them to list all aircraft that reside on the airport. My airport manager recently received such a form and apparently feels legally bound to comply with it. Ed I know the evil airport manager Ed refers to .. :) Yes sadly I am legally bound to report it or the airport is responsible for the taxes plus 250 fine for each occurrence. I Like Ed for he is a very likable person but I don't like him so much so that I want to pay his taxes for him. When I received notice I was at first dumbfounded then I was PISSED. I thought why is it I have to do the county's dirty work? I called a lawyer and I contacted a federal authority for surely this insanity could not be true. They both said yes and pointed to the NC statue (G.S.105-316 subsection a 3) and the fact that it has been upheld since the 50's. Like boat storage owners and mobile home parks, the county doesn't want you to hide your assets and wants their money. The Irony in this, you realize a Private Airport Owner has to collect information for and pay taxes that will not be providing any assistance to the private owner and to be used to compete against them making all but impossible to run a private/public airport unless they have owned the land for years. But that is a whole other thread and I am sure Private Airport owners are not alone. I went on to contact the county tax manager explaining to her that there was no need for me to supply that, for the information was already there and she told me: "I don't have access to that". I explained to her everyone has access to that. The FAA puts the information (albeit sometimes incorrect) up on their web site for everyone to query. She said that is not the way they do it and to send in the hand written form they sent to me. I hated doing so for I caught a lot of grief from a few for asking for it, some flat out refused to do so. I can't blame them for it is really none of my business but the government makes me do so. So Ed I apologize for that. :) Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2008
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Carpet Security
Listers, On my RV-6A forward floor I have sound insulation between the fore and aft angles. It is the thickness of one side of the angles. So the surface of the insulation is flush with the edges of the angles. Over the insulation I have placed carpeting with a foam back. So far, I have used common double-stick carpet tape to hold the carpet in place. It has been minimally successful in keeping the carpeting from moving under my feet and the passenger's feet. After a few flights, I find that the carpeting slid a few inches and has buckled under my feet. My question is: have you found other means of keeping carpeting in place? Thanks in advance. Regards, Richard Dudley ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Hood" <hoodcom(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: good deal on tiedowns
Date: Jan 27, 2008
I came across these tiedown hook and tracks and thought I should share this info. I have no connection to this site but thought their price, for what appears to be the same thing that Vans sells, was too good not to pass along. http://pitposse.stores.yahoo.net/tiedohoandtr.html Blue Skys...bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Subject: Carpet Security
Date: Jan 27, 2008
Hi Richard, I have installed my carpet and insulation exactly the same as you. I have had the same problem and used a little contact cement around the edges. My last flight I had a passenger that had wrestles legs and he managed to get it all loose and waded up on that side again. I think a bit more contact cement will go on unless someone else comes up with something from your post. Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Dudley > Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 3:52 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Carpet Security > > > Listers, > > On my RV-6A forward floor I have sound insulation between the fore and > aft angles. It is the thickness of one side of the angles. So the > surface of the insulation is flush with the edges of the angles. Over > the insulation I have placed carpeting with a foam back. So far, I have > used common double-stick carpet tape to hold the carpet in place. It has > been minimally successful in keeping the carpeting from moving under my > feet and the passenger's feet. After a few flights, I find that the > carpeting slid a few inches and has buckled under my feet. > > My question is: have you found other means of keeping carpeting in place? > > Thanks in advance. > > Regards, > > Richard Dudley > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Carpet Security
Date: Jan 27, 2008
From: eddyfernan(at)aol.com
I had the same problem in my 9A and nothing would hold long term.? I ended up "pop riveting" (the horror)?a couple of small pieces of 1/8" angles at the aft end of the floor angles?each with a nut plate for a #8 screw.? Then I put the carpet back on and placed a #8 screw with a larger diameter washer through the carpet and into the nut plate.? No more buckled up carpet in the last year.? Hope that helps. Eddy Fernandez RV9A 210 hrs -----Original Message----- From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> Sent: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 6:16 pm Subject: RE: RV-List: Carpet Security Hi Richard, I have installed my carpet and insulation exactly the same as you. I have had the same problem and used a little contact cement around the edges. My last flight I had a passenger that had wrestles legs and he managed to get it all loose and waded up on that side again. I think a bit more contact cement will go on unless someone else comes up with something from your post. Tim > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Dudley > Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 3:52 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Carpet Security > > > Listers, > > On my RV-6A forward floor I have sound insulation between the fore and > aft angles. It is the thickness of one side of the angles. So the > surface of the insulation is flush with the edges of the angles. Over > the insulation I have placed carpeting with a foam back. So far, I have > used common double-stick carpet tape to hold the carpet in place. It has > been minimally successful in keeping the carpeting from moving under my > feet and the passenger's feet. After a few flights, I find that the > carpeting slid a few inches and has buckled under my feet. > > My question is: have you found other means of keeping carpeting in place? > > Thanks in advance. > > Regards, > > Richard Dudley > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 27, 2008
Subject: Re: Carpet Security
In a message dated 01/27/2008 3:57:19 PM Central Standard Time, rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net writes: have you found other means of keeping carpeting in place? You could glue or screw it to some thin, lightweight cabinet grade plywood something like shown here: _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=7449_ (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=7449) But take care that the finished product doesn't corrupt the connection between your feet and brake pedals: _http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=7450_ (http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=7450) Maybe something as simple as a coulple of screws at the rear of the carpets anchored to something attached at the rear of the floor stiffeners near the spar? Mark **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net>
Subject: Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose
Date: Jan 27, 2008
How do you clamp Aeroquip fire sleeve? Spruce has a clamp on the fire sleeve page along with an "Economy Fire sleeve Clamp Tool P/N 12-00684 ..$17.70" but I don't get it? I bought one of the clamps (P/N 05-02652) but don't really understand how it is used, except it would obviously take a special tool to put it on. I bought a tool at Oshkosh called a "ClampTite" that makes clamps out of safety wire. That looks like it might make a nice finished looking clamp over the fire sleeve. What are others doing? TIA, Allen Fulmer RV7 Wiring/Plumbing Eggenfellner Subaru E6T on firewall N808AF reserved Alexander City, AL 256-329-2001 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2008
From: Mike Divan <n343fd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: The FAA, County of Regsistration,Zip Code and Taxes
"wants their money"=0A=0AI would it is not there money it is YOURS and they TAKE/steal it!=0A =0AMike Divan=0AN64GH - RV6,flying :)=0ASLOW 7 Builder : (=0AEAA - 577486=0AFREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOU RS!=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: mbick <mbick(at)carolina.rr.com> =0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 6:32:45 AM =0ASubject: Re: RV-List: The FAA, County of Regsistration,Zip Code and Taxe s=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A=0A > -Rob=0A =0A>=0A A good point Rob, had not the =0Acounty I resided in with my aircraft not had =0A =0Aa much lower tax rate - I, urhmm... might not been as vigorous in having the =0A =0A record corrected {:>). But, =0Aultimately, you could have two tax authorities =0A=0A after your $$$. In several local =0Acounties, the local government has sent =0A forms =0Ato each airport manager requir ing them to list all aircraft that =0A=0A reside on the airport. My a irport =0Amanager recently received such a form and =0A =0Aapparently feels legally bound to comply with =0Ait.=0A =0A Ed =0A=0A=0A=0A I know the evil airport =0Amanager Ed refers to .. :) Yes sadly I am leg ally bound to report it or the =0Aairport is responsible for the taxes plus 250 fine for each occurrence. I Like =0AEd for he is a very likable person but I don't like him so much so that I want =0Ato pay his taxes for him. =0A=0A When I received =0Anotice I was at first dumbfounded then I was PISSED. I thought why is it I have =0Ato do the county's dirty work? I cal led a lawyer and I contacted a federal =0Aauthority for surely this insanit y could not be true. They both said yes and =0Apointed to the NC statue (G. S.105-316 subsection a 3) and the fact that it has =0Abeen upheld since the 50=A2s. Like boat storage owners and mobile home parks, the =0Acounty does n't want you to hide your assets and wants their money. The Irony in =0Athi s, you realize a Private Airport Owner has to collect information for and p ay =0Ataxes that will not be providing any assistance to the private owner and to be =0Aused to compete against them making all but impossible to run a private/public =0Aairport unless they have owned the land for years. But that is a whole other =0Athread and I am sure Private Airport owners are no t alone. =0A=0A I went on to contact the county tax manager explaining t o =0Aher that there was no need for me to supply that, for the information was =0Aalready there and she told me: "I don't have access to that". I expl ained to her =0Aeveryone has access to that. The FAA puts the information ( albeit sometimes =0Aincorrect) up on their web site for everyone to query. She said that is =0Anot the way they do it and to send in the hand written form they sent to me. =0A=0A I hated doing so for I caught a lot of gri ef from a few =0Afor asking for it, some flat out refused to do so. I can't blame them for it is =0Areally none of my business but the government make s me do so. So Ed I apologize =0Afor that. :) =0A=0A=0A =0A=0A=0A Mike ==========0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A __________________ __________________________________________________________________=0ANever miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. =0Ahttp://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2008
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Spraying UV-smooth prime
I use Polyfiber's UV smooth prime on fiberglass and like it. It can be put on with a small roller or sprayed. I tried spraying it once without very good results. I used an HVLP gun with a 1.5mm nozzle. Rolling has its problems too, so I'd like to try spraying again. Can some one one who has sprayed this stuff successfully advise me what is the best nozzle size to use for this stuff? I'm guessing it is larger than 1.5mm since it has a lot of solids. I have an assortment of nozzles. Thanks, -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2008
From: "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Re: Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose
Safety wire worked for me. http://bowenaero.com/mt/2004/01/firesleeve-dressing.html -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com On Jan 27, 2008 9:36 PM, Allen Fulmer wrote: > > How do you clamp Aeroquip fire sleeve? > > Spruce has a clamp on the fire sleeve page along with an "Economy Fire > sleeve Clamp Tool > P/N 12-00684 ..$17.70" but I don't get it? I bought one of the clamps > (P/N > 05-02652) but don't really understand how it is used, except it would > obviously take a special tool to put it on. > > I bought a tool at Oshkosh called a "ClampTite" that makes clamps out of > safety wire. That looks like it might make a nice finished looking clamp > over the fire sleeve. > > What are others doing? > > TIA, > > Allen Fulmer > RV7 Wiring/Plumbing > Eggenfellner Subaru E6T on firewall > N808AF reserved > Alexander City, AL > 256-329-2001 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Carpet Security
Date: Jan 27, 2008
a great way to secure carpets but keep them removable is to install snaps in the corners. in the picture, #1845 would be riveted to the floor and 1825 and 1830 get squeezed to the carpet. very common in the marine world, the press and snap tool costs about 95$ so you might just visit a local canvas expert. the hardware is very inexpensive (stainless). Steven dinieri capsteve(at)adelphia.net Iflyrv10.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > Richard Dudley > Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 4:52 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Carpet Security > > > > Listers, > > On my RV-6A forward floor I have sound insulation between the > fore and aft angles. It is the thickness of one side of the > angles. So the surface of the insulation is flush with the > edges of the angles. Over the insulation I have placed > carpeting with a foam back. So far, I have used common > double-stick carpet tape to hold the carpet in place. It has > been minimally successful in keeping the carpeting from > moving under my feet and the passenger's feet. After a few > flights, I find that the carpeting slid a few inches and has > buckled under my feet. > > My question is: have you found other means of keeping > carpeting in place? > > Thanks in advance. > > Regards, > > Richard Dudley > > > > > > Photoshare, and much much more: > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Starter Problem
Date: Jan 27, 2008
I've had a problem lately where the first time I hit the starter switch on the first start of the day, all I get is a "click", but the prop doesn't even twitch. I assume the noise is the starter relay. On the second or third attempt, the starter will engage and off we go. How do I diagnose this? Is it the relay, or something with the Prestolite starter, maybe the bendix not extending? BTW, I know there are better starters out there, but I need weight out front, so the Prestolite is a good way to go for me.. Thanks in advance, Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose
Date: Jan 27, 2008
On 27 Jan 2008, at 21:36, Allen Fulmer wrote: > > How do you clamp Aeroquip fire sleeve? > > Spruce has a clamp on the fire sleeve page along with an "Economy Fire > sleeve Clamp Tool > P/N 12-00684 ..$17.70" but I don't get it? I bought one of the > clamps (P/N > 05-02652) but don't really understand how it is used, except it would > obviously take a special tool to put it on. The Fire Sleeve Clamp Tool that ACS sells looks a lot like the automotive CV boot clamp tool that I bought at the local NAPA Auto Parts place, except the automotive tool had a crank that made it easier to use. That tool worked great on my fire sleeve clamps. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (Finishing Kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: Spraying UV-smooth prime
Date: Jan 27, 2008
Did you thin it before you tried spraying? I have sprayed it with the Harbor Freight HVLP gun and whatever nozzle it comes with with good results. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 10:54 PM Subject: RV-List: Spraying UV-smooth prime I use Polyfiber's UV smooth prime on fiberglass and like it. It can be put on with a small roller or sprayed. I tried spraying it once without very good results. I used an HVLP gun with a 1.5mm nozzle. Rolling has its problems too, so I'd like to try spraying again. Can some one one who has sprayed this stuff successfully advise me what is the best nozzle size to use for this stuff? I'm guessing it is larger than 1.5mm since it has a lot of solids. I have an assortment of nozzles. Thanks, -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Starter Problem
Kyle Boatright wrote: > I've had a problem lately where the first time I hit the starter > switch on the first start of the day, all I get is a "click", but the > prop doesn't even twitch. I assume the noise is the starter relay. > > On the second or third attempt, the starter will engage and off we go. > > How do I diagnose this? Is it the relay I think so. > , or something with the Prestolite starter, maybe the bendix not > extending? You'd hear the starter running if it was getting power. > BTW, I know there are better starters out there, but I need weight out > front, so the Prestolite is a good way to go for me.. The bendix will like some graphite periodically since you're going to keep it. When you get a new relay, get some plasti-dip and coat the body of the relay really good. Keeping the moisture out (yeah, I know ... they're supposed to be sealed) helps their longevity. Linn > > Thanks in advance, > > Kyle Boatright > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 27, 2008
Subject: Re: Gear Leg SB box size
I would be most interested in hearing the recommended inside dimensions of the box needed to ship my gear to Langair if anyone has this handy. I want to get the box built now if I get a spare moment (I've been traveling a lot for work), so that when I finally do get a chance to take the gear off sometime in mid-February (when I normal do my annual), I can get it sent off without delay. -Thx N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net>
Subject: Re: Gear Leg SB box size
Date: Jan 28, 2008
www.langair.com Read NEW instructions. No more wood boxes unless shipping two or more. Mike H 9A/8A ----- Original Message ----- From: Vanremog(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 11:59 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Leg SB box size I would be most interested in hearing the recommended inside dimensions of the box needed to ship my gear to Langair if anyone has this handy. I want to get the box built now if I get a spare moment (I've been traveling a lot for work), so that when I finally do get a chance to take the gear off sometime in mid-February (when I normal do my annual), I can get it sent off without delay. -Thx N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley) ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape in the new year. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net>
Subject: Re: Spraying UV-smooth prime
Date: Jan 28, 2008
I spray AKZO epoxy primer unthinned with a DeVilbiss HVLP and 1.2. Can't imagine Poly UV needing larger than 1.5. 1.8 would be the next size to try. Toy around with your needle & air pressure settings. Is your needle clean? Mike H 9A/8A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 11:49 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Spraying UV-smooth prime > > Did you thin it before you tried spraying? I have sprayed it with the > Harbor Freight HVLP gun and whatever nozzle it comes with with good > results. > > Brian Kraut > Engineering Alternatives, Inc. > www.engalt.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent > Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 10:54 PM > To: RV-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Spraying UV-smooth prime > > > I use Polyfiber's UV smooth prime on fiberglass and like it. It can be > put on with a small roller or sprayed. I tried spraying it once without > very good results. I used an HVLP gun with a 1.5mm nozzle. Rolling has > its problems too, so I'd like to try spraying again. > > Can some one one who has sprayed this stuff successfully advise me what > is the best nozzle size to use for this stuff? I'm guessing it is > larger than 1.5mm since it has a lot of solids. I have an assortment of > nozzles. > > Thanks, > -- > Tom Sargent, RV-6A > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2008
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Spraying UV-smooth prime
Yes, I thinned it as it says to on the can, but it has a very high solids content. It's really a filler. I think the term "primer" is misused in this case. You still have to spray real primer on top of the smooth prime after you sand it. It is a good filler, though. mike humphrey wrote: > > > I spray AKZO epoxy primer unthinned with a DeVilbiss HVLP and 1.2. > Can't imagine Poly UV needing larger than 1.5. 1.8 would be the next > size to try. Toy around with your needle & air pressure settings. Is > your needle clean? > Mike H 9A/8A > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> > To: > Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 11:49 PM > Subject: RE: RV-List: Spraying UV-smooth prime > > >> >> Did you thin it before you tried spraying? I have sprayed it with the >> Harbor Freight HVLP gun and whatever nozzle it comes with with good >> results. >> >> Brian Kraut >> Engineering Alternatives, Inc. >> www.engalt.com >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent >> Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 10:54 PM >> To: RV-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV-List: Spraying UV-smooth prime >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Kellie Hand" <chrisandkellie.hand(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Gear Leg SB box size
Date: Jan 28, 2008
GV - Harmon recently changed his recommendation of building the plywood box due to UPS charging higher freight than for cardboard boxes. He recommends strapping the leg to a piece of plywood that you then put in a cardboard box with packing material around it. I built a cardboard box from a big one I bought at Office Depot, but he sent me the leg back in a 40" x 6" x 6" cardboard box with the leg strapped to the same piece of plywood I sent it out in. I just put my gear leg back on today so still have the plywood and box if you want it. I see you are in Silicon Valley and I'm not too far from you; I'm in Mountain View if you want the shipping materials I have. I flattened the box, but the wood holds it in shape and you can use strapping tape to close it up again. I shipped the leg to him last Monday morning and got it back on Friday same week. Very quick turnaround! Chris RV-6A chrisandkellie.hand(at)comcast.net ----- Original Message ----- From: Vanremog(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 8:59 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Leg SB box size I would be most interested in hearing the recommended inside dimensions of the box needed to ship my gear to Langair if anyone has this handy. I want to get the box built now if I get a spare moment (I've been traveling a lot for work), so that when I finally do get a chance to take the gear off sometime in mid-February (when I normal do my annual), I can get it sent off without delay. -Thx N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley) ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape in the new year. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Settle" <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Spraying UV-smooth prime
Date: Jan 28, 2008
Could ambient temperature be a factor? I have never used the stuff you guys are discussing, but I found out in my first few experiences with epoxy primer that it is certainly easier to spray in summer vs winter. Bill Settle -8 Wings -------------- Original message from tom sargent : -------------- > > Yes, I thinned it as it says to on the can, but it has a very high > solids content. It's really a filler. I think the term "primer" is > misused in this case. You still have to spray real primer on top of the > smooth prime after you sand it. It is a good filler, though. > > mike humphrey wrote: > > > > > > I spray AKZO epoxy primer unthinned with a DeVilbiss HVLP and 1.2. > > Can't imagine Poly UV needing larger than 1.5. 1.8 would be the next > > size to try. Toy around with your needle & air pressure settings. Is > > your needle clean? > > Mike H 9A/8A > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Kraut" > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 11:49 PM > > Subject: RE: RV-List: Spraying UV-smooth prime > > > > > >> > >> Did you thin it before you tried spraying? I have sprayed it with the > >> Harbor Freight HVLP gun and whatever nozzle it comes with with good > >> results. > >> > >> Brian Kraut > >> Engineering Alternatives, Inc. > >> www.engalt.com > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent > >> Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 10:54 PM > >> To: RV-list(at)matronics.com > >> Subject: RV-List: Spraying UV-smooth prime > >> > >> > > > > > > >

Could ambient temperature be a factor? I have never used the stuff you guys are discussing, but I found out in my first few experiences with epoxy primer that it is certainly easier to spray in summer vs winter.

Bill Settle

-8 Wings

-------------- Original message from tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net>: --------------

> --> RV-List message posted by: tom sargent
>
> Yes, I thinned it as it says to on the can, but it has a very high
> solids content. It's really a filler. I think the term "primer" is
> misused in this case. You still have to spray real primer on top of the
> smooth prime after you sand it. It is a good filler, though.
>
> mike humphrey wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "mike humphrey"
> >
> >
> > I spray AKZO epoxy primer unthinned with a DeVilbiss HVLP and 1.2.
> > Can't imagine Poly UV needing larger than 1.5. 1.8 would be the next
> > size to try. Toy around with your needle & air pressure settings. Is > > your needle clean? > > Mike H 9A/8A > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Kraut" <BRIAN.KRAUT(at)ENGALT.COM> > > To: <RV-LIST(at)MATRONICS.COM> > > Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 11:49 PM > > Subject: RE: RV-List: Spraying UV-smooth prime > > > > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <BRIAN.KRAUT(at)ENGALT.COM> > >> > >> Did you thin it before you tried spraying? I have sprayed it with the > >> Harbor Freight HVLP gun and whatever nozzle it comes with with good > >> results. > >> > >> Brian Kraut > >> Engineering Alternatives, Inc. > >> www.engalt.com > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of tom sargent > >> Se nt: Su for y

________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: The FAA, County of Regsistration,Zip Code and Taxes
Date: Jan 28, 2008
// I would it is not there money it is YOURS and they TAKE/steal it! // FREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOURS! Couldn't ignore the irony (g) do not arcxhive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Starter Problem
Date: Jan 28, 2008
That click is the solenoid trying to fire but doesn't have enough oomph to make good contact. There's a good chance it's the connections to the relay or the ground or the relay itself. Cheapest first step is clean and tighten all the connections. Then replace the relay. A Bendix problem is more likely to spin but not engage (or disengage). Regards, Greg Young _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 10:21 PM Subject: RV-List: Starter Problem I've had a problem lately where the first time I hit the starter switch on the first start of the day, all I get is a "click", but the prop doesn't even twitch. I assume the noise is the starter relay. On the second or third attempt, the starter will engage and off we go. How do I diagnose this? Is it the relay, or something with the Prestolite starter, maybe the bendix not extending? BTW, I know there are better starters out there, but I need weight out front, so the Prestolite is a good way to go for me.. Thanks in advance, Kyle Boatright ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2008
From: sam ray <sam95037(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Carpet Security
Steve Any recommendations on where to get 1845, 1825, 1830 online? Sam 80262 Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2008
Subject: Carpet Security
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Richard, I thought that Van's had a web site where someone had solved that problem. I believe that it was glued down. The bottom of the carpet was covered with contact glue and allowed to dry and then glued down with a second layer of glue that is allowed to almost dry. The contact cement provided the attachment to the aluminum floor and having the glue put on the backing of the carpet made sure that the joint would be very tough. Jim Nelson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2008
From: d wntzl <dwntzl(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Carpet Security
Hello I also used foam for insulation (heat and noise) but decided rather than carpet to install an aluminum floor over it. R & L half cut to fit - .016 Alum (McMaster Carr), 4 screws each side, lightweight, doesn't shift, easy to keep clean. David Wentzell, Port St. Joe, FL RV6 - 233DW - 280 hrs. --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Carpet Security
Date: Jan 28, 2008
This is a timely thread, as I too have been dealing with my carpeting getting all bunched up. I submit the following as a possible fix that I wanted to bounce off the list.... I have used (as many others have) Flightline interior's kit, which included a very stiff, durable styrofoam for insulating the floor. It is thick enough to be flush with with foor stiffeners, and the carpet is then laid over it. Mine is held in place just by the snug fit the separate pieces have between the floor stiffeners. I suggest that a channel of aluminum is made or pruchased to fit the thickness of that foam. Then rivet that to the underside of the carpet at the edge which goes up against the wing spar and positioned between where the floor stiffeners are. This could be done by several pop rivets with washers on the carpet side, or a strip of aluminum can be used to sandwich the carpet between it and the aluminum channel. Get the carpet in postion fore, aft, side to side, and then lift the pack edge of the foam up from between the stiffeners to expose its aft edge. Insert the aft edge of the foam into the channel and then press the whole works back down between the stiffeners. This should keep the carpet from shifting forward, which is the only direction that mine wants to move. The foam shouldn't buckle up by the force on its back edge, because your feet will still be pressing down on it as well. This is all relative to getting in and out. You can then use carpet tape or even velcro on the forward edge and the sides. How does this sound, folks? I'd appreciate any comments, refinements. Regards, Jeff Orear RV6A N782P Peshtigo, WI ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose
Date: Jan 28, 2008
As mentioned, go to the auto parts store and get a tool for tightening CV boot clamps. Mine was around $10 and has worked very well for 4 planes worth of custom hoses..... -Mike -----Original Message----- From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> Sent: 01/27/08 9:36 PM Subject: RV-List: Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose How do you clamp Aeroquip fire sleeve? Spruce has a clamp on the fire sleeve page along with an "Economy Fire sleeve Clamp Tool P/N 12-00684 ..$17.70" but I don't get it? I bought one of the clamps (P/N 05-02652) but don't really understand how it is used, except it would obviously take a special tool to put it on. I bought a tool at Oshkosh called a "ClampTite" that makes clamps out of safety wire. That looks like it might make a nice finished looking clamp over the fire sleeve. What are others doing? TIA, Allen Fulmer RV7 Wiring/Plumbing Eggenfellner Subaru E6T on firewall N808AF reserved Alexander City, AL 256-329-2001 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE:Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose
Date: Jan 28, 2008
Hi Allen- > How do you clamp Aeroquip fire sleeve? I also have a clamp tite, figured out how to use it, and realized I was at least as well off just neatly 'strangling' the end of the fire sleeve with a couple of turns of safety wire. I sealed the ends of the sleeve with high temp rtv to keep the fiberglass from becoming saturated with anything flammable. I also have a couple of the 'official' clamps, and might have used then if I had known NAPA sold the tool for them, but the safety wire solution works very well and can be undone / redone very easily, as opposed to the fancy permanent clamps. SS worm drive hose clamps will also do a fine job technically, but are somewhat more unsightly, heavier, more expensive, and each one presents a fine place to shed a little blood the next time you reach into the engine compartment. YMMV, FWIW, etc glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.ne ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2008
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Carpet Security
Thanks to all who responded so far with a great variety of 9 approaches. I believe that I will try the Velcro approach next. It appears the easiest for me to me to try now while I have things apart for my annual. If that works for me I'll stop there. If not, I'll try one of the others that requires some more drilling and riveting. Best regards, Richard Dudley ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2008
From: steve <stevea(at)svpal.org>
Subject: Re: Carpet Security
Sam, No idea....I haven't looked for them. They may be available at a local fabric store. Steve sam ray wrote: > > Steve > Any recommendations on where to get 1845, 1825, 1830 > online? > > Sam > 80262 > > > Be a better friend, newshound, and > know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com>
Subject: Kit Panels LLC
Date: Jan 28, 2008
Hey, does anyone know if Kit Panels is still in business? Their phone numb er doesn't work, and they have not responded to my email. I have a friend l ooking to buy a module from them. Thanks, Paul Rice RV8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2008
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
Subject: Re: Carpet Security
I have Classic Aero's carpet, it has thick sound proofing foam glued to the back and it is slotted to fit between the angles. It comes with velcro but I didn't use it. It stays in place pretty good since the thick foam is glued to it, it keeps it from bunching up. http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/ ---- Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my flying RV7A web page: http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Richard Dudley wrote: > > Thanks to all who responded so far with a great variety of 9 approaches. > I believe that I will try the Velcro approach next. It appears the > easiest for me to me to try now while I have things apart for my annual. > If that works for me I'll stop there. If not, I'll try one of the > others that requires some more drilling and riveting. > > Best regards, > > Richard Dudley > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Carpet Security
Date: Jan 28, 2008
try http://www.atrim.com/Page106.html there is a snap kit #K22920--$6.95 EA that installs the snaps onto the carpet. if you can find somehow to install the snaps on the carpet i will give you the rest of the stuff to do it.. Steven dinieri capsteve(at)adelphia.net Iflyrv10.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam ray > Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 12:11 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Carpet Security > > > Steve > Any recommendations on where to get 1845, 1825, 1830 online? > > Sam > 80262 > > > > > Be a better friend, newshound, and > know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. > http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose
Date: Jan 28, 2008
I purchased a band clamp pliers for CV joints in the aviation isle of AutoZone. The man said I could just rent it if I wanted to, but it was only $10. Put the clamp around the firesleeve and hose, squeeze the clamp ends with the pliers and you're done. Marty in Brentwood TN From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> Subject: RV-List: Clamping fire sleeve on fuel hose How do you clamp Aeroquip fire sleeve? Spruce has a clamp on the fire sleeve page along with an "Economy Fire sleeve Clamp Tool P/N 12-00684 ..$17.70" but I don't get it? I bought one of the clamps (P/N 05-02652) but don't really understand how it is used, except it would obviously take a special tool to put it on. I bought a tool at Oshkosh called a "ClampTite" that makes clamps out of safety wire. That looks like it might make a nice finished looking clamp over the fire sleeve. What are others doing? TIA, Allen Fulmer RV7 Wiring/Plumbing Eggenfellner Subaru E6T on firewall N808AF reserved Alexander City, AL 256-329-2001 Marty ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Carter" <dcarter11(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-6 Quick-build project-partially completed-for sale
Date: Jan 29, 2008
Started Jan 1997, working on canopy frame when stopped work on project and bought a used RV-6 1 June 2007. $24,500 in kit costs, transportation, and a few miscellaneous parts and supplies. Call or e-mail for details. David Carter Nederland, Texas H 409-722-7259 cell 409-718-2268 (when away from house) dcarter11(at)sbcglobal.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2008
From: kirt klevin <rv6aokcity(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Message for Don Hall / RV Flight Bags...
Don, If you are still out there, I tried to reply to your request for info on our RV flight bags but you email was bounced back. =( You can find more info on our bags at: www.bisonmountainbags.com Regards, Kurt Bison Mountain ________________________________________________________________ Still selling these? ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 finishing ****************************************** --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2008
From: "Lapsley R. and Sandra E. Caldwell" <lrsecaldwell(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: DYNON Log Data
Has anyone developed a program to reduce post flight data from a Dynon EMS D120 log? Roger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: DYNON Log Data
Date: Jan 31, 2008
On 31 Jan 2008, at 06:49, Lapsley R. and Sandra E. Caldwell wrote: > Has anyone developed a program to reduce post flight data from a > Dynon > EMS D120 log? I created a Python script to parse the EFIS data output. I should be able to create a Python script that would parse the D120 data and convert it to some other useful format that could be easily imported into a spreadsheet. Would that do what you want? If so, send me a sample D120 log file to play with (don't send it to the list, as attachments are striped, I think). -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (Finishing Kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dana Overall <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: i39, Richmond, Madison RV Flyin Feb. 23.
Date: Jan 31, 2008
OK gang, i39, Richmond, Madison Kickoff Flyin is officially on the books for Saturday Feb. 23rd. We have had a new business take over the FBO. Warbirds of America also has relocated to the corporate hangar. The appearance of the FBO has substantially changed along with the attitudes and environment. The airport is once again a nice place to hang out. The new owners have leased a mobile fuel truck so no long lines will be present at the fuel farm. i39 is located in Central Kentucky, just south of Lexington. We have had over 100 GA aircraft here for this one day flyin. The list of RV goes from RV-3s to Evos, Harmons, Supers to 4's, 6's, 7's, 8's, 9's....but no 10's as of last year. Let's change that one. This is a very low key, get the birds out and stretch those legs after the prior couple of months of winter weather flyin. I'm not going to jinx the weather, suffice to say we have had a couple good years of weather. The following weekend will be the rain day.....but it won't have to be used!! Remember, if you fly in there will be no ambulances, firetrucks or emergency personnel on site........there, that out of the way. We will once again have free coffee, donuts, Hooters wings, hotdogs, colas, water ........................and..............again this year...............a client is showing up with his mobile corn roaster!! Starting time is light 30 with closing at dark 30. Bring your camera and best lies, you will need the best of both. No vendors, no $3 hotdogs, no forums, no nothing, just airplanes and friends. We again, I'm sure will have members of TeamRV and the Ohio Valley RVators formation teams flying in with lots of individual RVs. Be careful, this is an uncontrolled airfield with no NOTAMS, no nothing, safety is up to you. Keep your head on a swivel and use the radio. You know the drill. Looking forward to seeing everyone nice and early. 60 degrees and sunshine.....YES, that's what we are pulling for!! If you are driving in and would like to spend the night in the area, below is a list of local hotels: Comfort Suites 859 624-0770 Next to Cracker Barrel Hampton Inn 859 626-1002 Next to Bob Evans Holiday Inn Express & Suites 859 624-4088 Walking distance Bob Evans Best Western 859 623-9220 Same as above Jameson Inn 859 623-0063 Bob Evans shares parking lot La Quinta 859 623-9121 Near Cracker Barrel Ramada Limited 859 626-8676 Same as above Me cell phone is 859 625-2844 with home 859 369-7582 __________________ Dana Overall Richmond, KY i39 RV-7, "Black Magic" Flying http://rvflying.tripod.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMi05-WU2D0#GU5U2spHI_4 O-360 A1A C/S VAF #993 _________________________________________________________________ Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_0120 08 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: DYNON Log Data
Date: Jan 31, 2008
I just import it into Excel and delete the columns I am not interested in. It would be easy to write a simple macro to do it, but I have not done that yet.... -M -----Original Message----- From: "Lapsley R. and Sandra E. Caldwell" <lrsecaldwell(at)earthlink.net> Sent: 01/31/08 8:49 AM Subject: RV-List: DYNON Log Data Has anyone developed a program to reduce post flight data from a Dynon EMS D120 log? Roger ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: DYNON Log Data
From: "TbirdRV" <tbirdrv(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 01, 2008
Waiters Flight Data Recorder! http://www.iflyez.com/EFISRecorder.shtml Check out this awesome freeware program by John McAvoy. John is the Tech Counselor and Flight Advisor for our chapter (EAA 582) and wrote this application in response to my search for something to simultaneously log the data from my Dynon D10, Grand Rapids EIS4000 and a GPS during the first flights of my RV-6A in Sept. 2005. It works great, and the price is right! He has recently modified WFDR to provide a playback function for Dynon EFIS/EMS serial data. If you like WFDR, or have suggestions for improvements send John an email, tell him Tony sent you. -------- Tony Kirk RV-6A N57TK www.TomsRV8.com webmaster www.EAA582.org Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161811#161811 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>
Subject: dynon
Date: Feb 01, 2008
While the output is a .csv what would be nice is a macro that lays it all out in pretty graphs and charts, rather than having to create this every time, or cut and paste data here and there. I have a D10 EMS .csv file if anybody wants to play with it. Drop a note and I'll pop it your way. ;{) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Plenum - Van's 360 baffle kit - "finger spacer"
Folks, I started working on my baffle kit yesterday as it will be the basis for my plenum. The instructions call for a 1/4" 'finger spacer' on the back side of the first panel outboard of the centerline to be riveted around (below) a bolt hole for an AN4-15A bolt. My Aerosport built (XP360 I'm fairly sure) IO360B1F6 isn't threaded there so I know a nut/washer will also e required. Also, even with a 1/4" spacer, a 15 length bolt will be way too long. Anyone else find this? Is 1/4" thick a good size for the spacer? What length bolt did you use? Thanks, Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2008
Subject: Pitot leak check
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
I am doing the leak check on my pitot system. What are the usual guide lines. Right now, I have a leak down at this rate: 50K to 45K in +2 min. 110K to 105K in 50 sec. The only joints left are the screw on nuts at both of my air speed indicators. Jim Nelson N15JN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Pitot leak check
I remember hearing that you are 'allowed' 100'/min on your static system. I don't recall hearing anything on the pitot system. Have you tried the ASI's independantly of each other? One of them may be bad....it has happened...... I'll be monitoring this thread as I am interested too.... -----Original Message----- >From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> >Sent: Feb 4, 2008 3:49 PM >To: RV-List(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Pitot leak check > > >I am doing the leak check on my pitot system. What are the usual guide >lines. Right now, I have a leak down at this rate: 50K to 45K in >+2 min. 110K to 105K in 50 sec. The only joints left are the screw on >nuts at both of my air speed indicators. > > >Jim Nelson >N15JN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2008
Subject: Pitot leak check
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Yup, I'll need to make a close off fitting to do that. I think I will do the Teflon grease on the tubing first and see how it does. Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2008
From: "S Hamer" <s.hamer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Pitot leak check
Jim, Look in AC 43.13 if you have a copy. It's all in there. My book is at the hangar and I don't want to rely on my memory to give you the info. Steve Hamer RV-6 Apple Valley, Ca > > I am doing the leak check on my pitot system. What are the usual guide > lines. Right now, I have a leak down at this rate: 50K to 45K in > +2 min. 110K to 105K in 50 sec. The only joints left are the screw on > nuts at both of my air speed indicators. > > > Jim Nelson > N15JN > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: Re: Pitot leak check
Date: Feb 04, 2008
The pitot/static system tests are covered in FAR/AMT (Aviation Maintenance Technicians). The FAR/AMT is a good book to have and is available from Spruce, Sporties, etc. FAR PART 23.1325(b)(2)(i) - Static Pressure System (Leak Test) FAR APPENDIX E to PART 43 - Altimeter System Test and Inspection These test are normally done by the avionic shop that "certifies" your transponder but you will save boo coos of money if you have a leak tight system before you go to the shop.. In accordance with FAR PART 23.1325(b)(2)(i), conducted proof test demonstrating the integrity of the static pressure system. At 1000 ft above airport elevation, The leakage was ----- ft in 1 minute. The requirement is less than 100 ft in 1 minute. Be very careful in applying pressure or vacuum to your system. You can damage your instruments! Richard Reynolds Norfolk, VA RV-6A 430 hrs. On Feb 4, 2008, at 3:49 PM, James H Nelson wrote: > > I am doing the leak check on my pitot system. What are the usual > guide > lines. Right now, I have a leak down at this rate: 50K to > 45K in > +2 min. 110K to 105K in 50 sec. The only joints left are the > screw on > nuts at both of my air speed indicators. > > > Jim Nelson > N15JN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Re: Controlling defrost fans
Date: Feb 04, 2008
Mike, Did you get a chance to make a couple of pictures, I bought the fans and would love to see your installation. Thx C Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell(at)gforcecable.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mikerv6a(at)ao.com Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 10:46 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: Controlling defrost fans Here is a simple two-speed fan control using an spdt switch. I'm using a fan from DigiKey, cat no. 603-1055-ND that's 80mm square and 25.4mm thick, about 3.15" x 1". It has ball bearings and relatively high airflow for its size. Rated power at 12V for this fan is 6 watts. I measured fan current at about 0.52A at 12.0 volts. The relationship between voltage and current was close to linear down to 6V, and the fan continues to run at still lower voltage. I chose 8V as a target votlage for "slow" speed, and I found fan current to be about 0.33A at this voltage. Speed of these fans is easily controlled either by providing variable voltage or by inserting a resistor in series with the fan circuit. I used a 15-ohm 10-watt resistor having an aluminum housing which includes tabs for mounting on a couple of screws. This results in about 8.5 volts on the fan with 13.5V power bus voltage. Power dissipation in this resistor is calculated to be about 1.7 watts. The reason for my "oversizing" the power rating of the resistor I selected is that the built-in mounting provision for the 10W resistor is very convenient. The resistor is DigiKey catalog no. 810F15RE-ND. (Low Speed) Resistor O--------------/\/\/\/------ / | -------------/ O (OFF) | spdt switch | w/ center-off O--------------------------- \ ------------------------------- FAN-------- (Full Speed) Mike Linse RV-6A (canopy...) Corvallis, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2008
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Pitot leak check
Only specs for altimeter and static system, not pitot, at least if you are referring to Appendix E. S Hamer wrote: > > Jim, > > Look in AC 43.13 if you have a copy. It's all in there. My book is > at the hangar and I don't want to rely on my memory to give you the info. > > Steve Hamer > RV-6 > Apple Valley, Ca ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Carpet Security
Date: Jan 29, 2008
Re Velcro, a word of caution. If you use the self stick kind you can expect it to start shifting and slipping around before long and making a real mess, I'm sure you can guess how I know. Get the Velcro that doesn't have an adhesive backing and glue it down to stay with a good quality, like 3M, contact cement. -- Harry Crosby RV-6 N16CX, flying - 432 hours -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> > > Thanks to all who responded so far with a great variety of 9 approaches. > I believe that I will try the Velcro approach next. It appears the > easiest for me to me to try now while I have things apart for my annual. > If that works for me I'll stop there. If not, I'll try one of the others > that requires some more drilling and riveting. > > Best regards, > > Richard Dudley > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 04, 2008
Subject: Re: Carpet Security
In a message dated 2/4/2008 7:00:33 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, HCRV6(at)comcast.net writes: Re Velcro, a word of caution. If you use the self stick kind you can expect it to start shifting and slipping around before long and making a real mess, I'm sure you can guess how I know. Get the Velcro that doesn't have an adhesive backing and glue it down to stay with a good quality, like 3M, contact cement. =========================================== Or Gorilla Glue. N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley) **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025 48) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Ciolino" <johnciolino(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Plenum - Van's 360 baffle kit - "finger spacer"
Date: Feb 05, 2008
Ralph, I just finished the baffles myself and I have the Aerosport XP30 also. You are right, you need a nut and bolt and the provided bolt is way too long. I used a -10 but use what fits. I also installed a nutplate on the baffle because I got tired of the the hand gymnastics required to get the nut on and off. My understanding is that the spacer is to move the baffle forward so it does not rub on the rubber engine mount. I needed more that 1/4"-- just shy of 1/2". John Ciolino ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 7:59 AM Subject: RV-List: Plenum - Van's 360 baffle kit - "finger spacer" > > Folks, > > I started working on my baffle kit yesterday as it will be the basis for > my plenum. > > The instructions call for a 1/4" 'finger spacer' on the back side of the > first panel outboard of the centerline to be riveted around (below) a bolt > hole for an AN4-15A bolt. > > My Aerosport built (XP360 I'm fairly sure) IO360B1F6 isn't threaded there > so I know a nut/washer will also e required. Also, even with a 1/4" > spacer, a 15 length bolt will be way too long. > > Anyone else find this? Is 1/4" thick a good size for the spacer? What > length bolt did you use? > > Thanks, > Ralph > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Subject: Carpet Security
Date: Feb 05, 2008
_____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vanremog(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 9:59 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Carpet Security In a message dated 2/4/2008 7:00:33 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, HCRV6(at)comcast.net writes: Re Velcro, a word of caution. If you use the self stick kind you can expect it to start shifting and slipping around before long and making a real mess, I'm sure you can guess how I know. Get the Velcro that doesn't have an adhesive backing and glue it down to stay with a good quality, like 3M, contact cement. =========================================== Or Gorilla Glue. [Tim] Yikes!! What out for that stuff it foams and multiplies in quantity by as much as three times. If you use this, be warned. N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley) _____ Who's never won? Biggest <http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp0030000 0002548> Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2008
From: "David Burnham" <daverv6a(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Artex 200 to 406
Has anyone exchanged their Artex 200 for a 406 ELT. Skygeek says you can use the same remote switch and wiring harness. Can anyone help with the wiring diagram. The 200 has 3 wires between unit and switch 406 4wires and they connect to different pins. Regards, Dave Burnham N64FN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2008
From: steve <stevea(at)svpal.org>
Subject: Re: Artex 200 to 406
Haven't done a 200 to 406 exchange, only a new install on an Artex ME406. All the Artex installation manuals are here: http://www.artex.net/support-resources/documents.php?folderid=5 Looks like the panel switch is the same, but wiring from the switch to the ELT is different. Steve A RV-6A David Burnham wrote: > Has anyone exchanged their Artex 200 for a 406 ELT. Skygeek says you > can use the same remote switch and wiring harness. Can anyone help > with the wiring diagram. > The 200 has 3 wires between unit and switch 406 4wires and they > connect to different pins. > > Regards, > Dave Burnham > N64FN** ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Williamsburg, Va
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: Feb 05, 2008
I recently completed a trip with several other RV's to KJGG (Williamsburg). They have a great restaurant on the field, but if you want to spend the night and check out the sites with your wife, I highly recommend this place (http://www.innat802.com/). It belongs to my brother-in-law and he told me that he will offer a 10% discount if you tell him you are a pilot. He will also pick you up and drop you off at the airport. No need to rent a car. Zack -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162560#162560 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Oil cooler mount / wedge
I'm working on my plenum/baffling. I'm starting with Vans baffle kit. I have decided that I would like to mount the oil cooler off the back of the #3 cyl back plate instead of the firewall. I'm also using a Sam James plenum - I'll be contacting them too! How have others done it? I'll even look at firewall mounts - to see if there are any good ones Anyone have plans for the wedge option that I have seen (somewhere)? Thanks, Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Williamsburg, Va
Date: Feb 05, 2008
I can vouch for the B&B. Great place. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8 Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 4:59 PM Subject: RV-List: Williamsburg, Va I recently completed a trip with several other RV's to KJGG (Williamsburg). They have a great restaurant on the field, but if you want to spend the night and check out the sites with your wife, I highly recommend this place (http://www.innat802.com/). It belongs to my brother-in-law and he told me that he will offer a 10% discount if you tell him you are a pilot. He will also pick you up and drop you off at the airport. No need to rent a car. Zack -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=162560#162560 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2008
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Oil cooler mount / wedge
Robby Attaway http://www.attawayair.com/index.html had a mount that would attach to the aft baffle, don't know if it will work with the SJ plenum, as the plenum is placed pretty low wrt to the baffle. It's not listed on his site, but If you call him he will let you know about it. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Ralph E. Capen wrote: > > I'm working on my plenum/baffling. I'm starting with Vans baffle kit. I have decided that I would like to mount the oil cooler off the back of the #3 cyl back plate instead of the firewall. > > I'm also using a Sam James plenum - I'll be contacting them too! > > How have others done it? I'll even look at firewall mounts - to see if there are any good ones > > Anyone have plans for the wedge option that I have seen (somewhere)? > Thanks, > Ralph > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Carpet Security
Date: Feb 05, 2008
I seem to recall that Bob Nuckolls of Aeroelectric-list recommends heating the self sticking side of Velcro prior to attaching and you will have a horible time getting it off later if needed! Marty From: Vanremog(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Carpet Security In a message dated 2/4/2008 7:00:33 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, HCRV6(at)comcast.net writes: Re Velcro, a word of caution. If you use the self stick kind you can expect it to start shifting and slipping around before long and making a real mess, I'm sure you can guess how I know. Get the Velcro that doesn't have an adhesive backing and glue it down to stay with a good quality, like 3M, contact cement. ========================================== Or Gorilla Glue. N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley) Marty ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2008
From: kirt klevin <rv6aokcity(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: CHECKMATE PULSE OXIMETER GROUP BUY...
Hello everyone. If you are interested in a group buy for a great pulse oximeter drop me an email at the address below. As you may know a pulse oximeter simply clips to your finger to get a reading on your oxgen saturation and pulse. Great for those of you flying above 10,000 or at night. I've had my 6A up to 21,000 and it has worked great. At first I used the more expensive Nonin model, but it soon broke and the repair cost was $150. These SPO medical units are much more reliable and less expensive. Sportys sells these units for $169. If we can get 8 or more folks interested in an order I can sell them for $129 plus UPS shipping. More info is on our website at: www.bisonmountainbags.com (click on the pulse oximeter tab at the top of the page) Regards, Kurt bisonmountain(at)yahoo.com www.bisonmountainbags.com More Info: CHECKMATE PULSE OXIMETER: The CheckMate Finger Oximeter answers the sports and aviation markets' demand for a lightweight, inexpensive monitor for measuring blood oxygen saturation and heart rate during physically active and high-altitude activities. The CheckMate Digital Pulse Oximeter offers the user a greater ability to monitor these vital signs under motion and is less expensive than most available devices. SPO Medical Check Mate Pulse Oximeter offers the features of a conventional pulse oximeter in a compact, user-friendly configuration. SPO Medical patented reflectance pulse oximetry (RPO) technology is what allows the Check Mate Finger Oximeter to effectively monitor an athlete during such activities as mountain climbing, high-altitude street cycling, light jogging, speed walking, and running. The Check Mate Digital Pulse Oximeter will monitor SpO2 in almost any physical activity that does not include significant arm swinging (e.g., jumping jacks). For most athletes, a little learning goes a long way: after a few hours of experimenting with various movements, athletes quickly learn how to use Check Mate Finger Oximeter in almost any activity. Aviation. Pilots love the Check Mate Digital Finger Oximeter because it allows them to quickly assess their SpO2 while flying at high altitudes. Hypoxia can be a pilot's worst enemy, and Check Mate is a low-cost product which gives pilots peace of mind. The Check Mate is based on SPO Medical's uniquely patented algorithms that use Reflective Pulse Oximetry Technology for accurate oximetry measurement. It also addresses problems typically associated with motion artifacts, ensuring accurate and reliable reading. The Check Mate is designed to utilize very low power for extended usage, eliminating the need for frequent battery replacement. The Check Mate also has its own unique belt that is rugged, zippered shut to prevent loss under extreme physical activities. Its semi-rigid, soft shell construction provides safe storage as well as wearer comfort. --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: EA OIL COOLER II vs SW 8406R
Anyone know if these are the same? Or if they have the same mounting bolt pattern? Ralph Capen ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: EA OIL COOLER II vs SW 8406R
Anyone know if these are the same? Or if they have the same mounting bolt pattern? Ralph Capen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Grenwis(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 07, 2008
Subject: Ammeter shunt
Can the ammeter shunt from Van's mount directly to aluminum because it has an isolated base, or does it need to be mounted on some isolating material to stand it off from the aluminum? Tnx. Rick **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025 48) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue
Date: Feb 07, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
My 6A just came out of annual with the updated nose gear & fork. Unfortunately there is now a severe shimmy upon landing*. So severe that I was wondering if the tire was rolling off the rim with a good slapping sound. Not a good feeling. As part of the annual I replaced both main tires & tubes but the nose wheel tire is the same as before the annual when all was well. I do notice that the front leg fairing is much closer to the nose wheel pant and has caused some abrasions on the top of the pant as they are now probably in contact with my added weight. The plane taxi's well and reasonably high speed taxing did not reveal the shimmy but there is definitely a problem. Any suggestions are appreciated. Robin *Perfect landing holding off the nose till I had no more authority. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net>
Subject: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue
Date: Feb 07, 2008
My last shimmy was caused by a tire that was slightly out of round. If you hold the nose up till pitch control is gone, you may allow the nose wheel to drop hard enough to start an oscillation from the leg springing, it has happened to me. If you let the pressure get too low I have had the tire slip on the rim and tear the valve stem, and it took 2 days to go flat. If your tire is making noise maybe it developed a bump (hernia). Have someone push the tail down and raise the nose tire 4 inches and release while you watch. Good inspection for fairing clearances. Dale RV6a 986 hrs _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 9:00 PM Subject: RV-List: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue My 6A just came out of annual with the updated nose gear & fork. Unfortunately there is now a severe shimmy upon landing*. So severe that I was wondering if the tire was rolling off the rim with a good slapping sound. Not a good feeling. As part of the annual I replaced both main tires & tubes but the nose wheel tire is the same as before the annual when all was well. I do notice that the front leg fairing is much closer to the nose wheel pant and has caused some abrasions on the top of the pant as they are now probably in contact with my added weight. The plane taxi's well and reasonably high speed taxing did not reveal the shimmy but there is definitely a problem. Any suggestions are appreciated. Robin *Perfect landing holding off the nose till I had no more authority. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2008
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
Subject: Re: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue
Could be that the axle nuts are too tight and not allowing the tire to spin properly. Rise the tail and spin the tire by hand you should be able to make it spin at least one complete turn. I have found that they need to be torqued at min torque that is called out on the print. I don't have that handy, thinking it might be 85 in lbs.. ---- Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my flying RV7A web page: http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Dale Walter wrote: > > My last shimmy was caused by a tire that was slightly out of round. If > you hold the nose up till pitch control is gone, you may allow the > nose wheel to drop hard enough to start an oscillation from the leg > springing, it has happened to me. If you let the pressure get too low > I have had the tire slip on the rim and tear the valve stem, and it > took 2 days to go flat. If your tire is making noise maybe it > developed a bump (hernia). Have someone push the tail down and raise > the nose tire 4 inches and release while you watch. Good inspection > for fairing clearances. > > Dale > > RV6a 986 hrs > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Robin Marks > *Sent:* Thursday, February 07, 2008 9:00 PM > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV-List: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue > > > > My 6A just came out of annual with the updated nose gear & fork. > Unfortunately there is now a severe shimmy upon landing*. So severe > that I was wondering if the tire was rolling off the rim with a good > slapping sound. Not a good feeling. > > As part of the annual I replaced both main tires & tubes but the nose > wheel tire is the same as before the annual when all was well. I do > notice that the front leg fairing is much closer to the nose wheel > pant and has caused some abrasions on the top of the pant as they are > now probably in contact with my added weight. > > The plane taxi's well and reasonably high speed taxing did not reveal > the shimmy but there is definitely a problem. Any suggestions are > appreciated. > > > > Robin > > > > *Perfect landing holding off the nose till I had no more authority. > > * * > * * > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > * * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2008
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
Subject: Re: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue
Could be that the axle nuts are too tight and not allowing the tire to spin properly. Rise the tail and spin the tire by hand you should be able to make it spin at least one complete turn. I have found that they need to be torqued at min torque that is called out on the print. I don't have that handy, thinking it might be 85 in lbs.. ---- Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my flying RV7A web page: http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm Dale Walter wrote: > > My last shimmy was caused by a tire that was slightly out of round. If > you hold the nose up till pitch control is gone, you may allow the > nose wheel to drop hard enough to start an oscillation from the leg > springing, it has happened to me. If you let the pressure get too low > I have had the tire slip on the rim and tear the valve stem, and it > took 2 days to go flat. If your tire is making noise maybe it > developed a bump (hernia). Have someone push the tail down and raise > the nose tire 4 inches and release while you watch. Good inspection > for fairing clearances. > > Dale > > RV6a 986 hrs > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Robin Marks > *Sent:* Thursday, February 07, 2008 9:00 PM > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV-List: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue > > > > My 6A just came out of annual with the updated nose gear & fork. > Unfortunately there is now a severe shimmy upon landing*. So severe > that I was wondering if the tire was rolling off the rim with a good > slapping sound. Not a good feeling. > > As part of the annual I replaced both main tires & tubes but the nose > wheel tire is the same as before the annual when all was well. I do > notice that the front leg fairing is much closer to the nose wheel > pant and has caused some abrasions on the top of the pant as they are > now probably in contact with my added weight. > > The plane taxi's well and reasonably high speed taxing did not reveal > the shimmy but there is definitely a problem. Any suggestions are > appreciated. > > > > Robin > > > > *Perfect landing holding off the nose till I had no more authority. > > * * > * * > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > ** > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > * * > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue
Date: Feb 07, 2008
The two most likely issues are out of balance and out of round. Since it is a new tire I would guess out of balance. It is easy to tell the difference between one or both of those and shimmy from the outside while taxiing Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue
Date: Feb 08, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
I am fairly sure the shimmy is unrelated to a tire issue as I have had zero issues with the exact same tire before the annual (0.2 hours ago). I will test the rotation in the AM. I have read about the axel nut torque in the past so I will check that too. When I let the front wheel down it was not a drop but rather a near perfect landing right before the violent shimmy. Thanks, Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 08, 2008
Subject: Re: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue
In a message dated 2/7/2008 10:18:26 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, robin1(at)mrmoisture.com writes: I am fairly sure the shimmy is unrelated to a tire issue as I have had zero issues with the exact same tire before the annual (0.2 hours ago). I will test the rotation in the AM. I have read about the axle nut torque in the past so I will check that too. When I let the front wheel down it was not a drop but rather a near perfect landing right before the violent shimmy. ============================================== And your castoring "breakout" force is still the same? Did you over grease the pivot joint? Is the mounting hole to the engine mount getting sloppy? N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley) **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025 48) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2008
From: Lucio Castrogiovanni <rv7alucio(at)yahoo.it>
Subject: O 320 H2AD on 7/6-A
Hi Folk;=0AIs there any builder who fly an RV-7A or 6A with O320 H2AD ? If yes ... any problem or difficulty with mount and cowl?=0A=0Agood time at al l=0A=0ALucio=0A=0A=0A ___________________________________ =0AL'email d ella prossima generazione? Puoi averla con la nuova Yahoo! Mail: http://it. docs.yahoo.com/nowyoucan.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net>
Subject: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue
Date: Feb 08, 2008
OK, then remove the tire and fly the plane. If the shimmy is still there you have proved your case. BTW, except for the hub, the tire is the only moving part at the end of the leg unless your tire is not perfect. The wheel fairing will not create shimmy, it is always the victim. Tires change, and can go bad any time; forget about how it was before the shimmy. The poster who questioned greasing has a good point. Also, maybe that super landing of yours got grease on it (greaser). Good luck, Dale _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 1:14 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue I am fairly sure the shimmy is unrelated to a tire issue as I have had zero issues with the exact same tire before the annual (0.2 hours ago). I will test the rotation in the AM. I have read about the axel nut torque in the past so I will check that too. When I let the front wheel down it was not a drop but rather a near perfect landing right before the violent shimmy. Thanks, Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2008
From: John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Subject: Want to buy RV4
I am looking to buy a nice flying RV4. I am located in the Reno, NV area but can travel as necessary. Any help would be appreciated. John Morgensen 775 771-5791 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PSPRV6A(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 08, 2008
Subject: Nose wheel axle torque
On the 6A my son Eric & I are completing, we chose to put a spacer between the inner races of the tapered roller bearings. This permits the axle nut to be fully tightened without overloading the bearings. Having a metal lathe in our shop made it simple to trim the spacer to exactly the right length. If you have easy access to a lathe, it is a worthwhile improvement. Paul s. Petersen, Minnetonka MN **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025 48) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue
Date: Feb 08, 2008
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
>And your castoring "breakout" force is still the same? I doubt as it's a new gear leg & fork. I will have to check & re-set. >Is the mounting hole to the engine mount getting sloppy? No, this is a new gear leg and the drilled hole is perfect. > Did you over grease the pivot joint? I don't have the repairman's certificate on this plane so the annual was performed by a mechanic. I will go out to the airport and check today. Thanks for everyone's help so far. Robin From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vanremog(at)aol.com Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 10:47 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue In a message dated 2/7/2008 10:18:26 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, robin1(at)mrmoisture.com writes: I am fairly sure the shimmy is unrelated to a tire issue as I have had zero issues with the exact same tire before the annual (0.2 hours ago). I will test the rotation in the AM. I have read about the axle nut torque in the past so I will check that too. When I let the front wheel down it was not a drop but rather a near perfect landing right before the violent shimmy. ===================== And your castoring "breakout" force is still the same? Did you over grease the pivot joint? Is the mounting hole to the engine mount getting sloppy? N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley) ________________________________ Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. <http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp00 3 00000002548> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net>
Subject: Re: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue
Date: Feb 08, 2008
Change tire is good idea-eliminate the obvious. Bearings go bad also, especially if too much or too little grease. Try one thing at a time, you'll find the issue as to why, hopefully it will be sooner then later. Mike H ----- Original Message ----- From: Dale Walter To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 7:40 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue OK, then remove the tire and fly the plane. If the shimmy is still there you have proved your case. BTW, except for the hub, the tire is the only moving part at the end of the leg unless your tire is not perfect. The wheel fairing will not create shimmy, it is always the victim. Tires change, and can go bad any time; forget about how it was before the shimmy. The poster who questioned greasing has a good point. Also, maybe that super landing of yours got grease on it (greaser). Good luck, Dale ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 1:14 AM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV-List: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue I am fairly sure the shimmy is unrelated to a tire issue as I have had zero issues with the exact same tire before the annual (0.2 hours ago). I will test the rotation in the AM. I have read about the axel nut torque in the past so I will check that too. When I let the front wheel down it was not a drop but rather a near perfect landing right before the violent shimmy. Thanks,Robin http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2008
From: Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net>
Subject: Re: Nose wheel axle torque
Or maybe someone could start a little side business making them available to RVers ;) Of course, I won't need them for my RV-4 ;) Speaking of lathes, I'd love to have one. What do listers who own lathes recommend for a general purpose, non-wallet busting lathe?? Scott http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ Gotta Fly or Gonna Die Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version) PSPRV6A(at)aol.com wrote: > On the 6A my son Eric & I are completing, we chose to put a > spacer between the inner races of the tapered roller bearings. This > permits the axle nut to be fully tightened without overloading the > bearings. > Having a metal lathe in our shop made it simple to trim the spacer > to exactly the right length. If you have easy access to a lathe, it is > a worthwhile improvement. > Paul > s. Petersen, Minnetonka MN > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL > Music. > <http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp00300000002548> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2008
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue
I don't think so. Out of round will cause the nose fork to bounce, not shimmy. Shimmy being a side to side motion. Tighten up on the nut that holds the nose fork on. The Grummans use belleville washers to create the drag necessary to prevent the shimmy. I don't know about the RV gears. To adjust the Grumman nose gear, you apply a spring scale to the wheel axle and torque the nut 'till the spring scale exerts at least 25 Lbs pull before the gear swivels. With the tire off the ground, of course! ;-) Linn Ron Lee wrote: > The two most likely issues are out of balance and out of round. Since > it is a new tire I would guess out of balance. It is easy to tell the > difference > between one or both of those and shimmy from the outside while taxiing > > Ron Lee > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue
Date: Feb 08, 2008
Ok, listen closely. You need to have someone observe your tires while you get what you call a shimmy. Look from the front and from the side. A competent observer will be able to tell if it is shimmy or out of balance/out of round. Once that is determined you can determine which of the possible fixes works. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: Robin Marks To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 11:13 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue I am fairly sure the shimmy is unrelated to a tire issue as I have had zero issues with the exact same tire before the annual (0.2 hours ago). I will test the rotation in the AM. I have read about the axel nut torque in the past so I will check that too. When I let the front wheel down it was not a drop but rather a near perfect landing right before the violent shimmy. Thanks,Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue
Date: Feb 08, 2008
Linn, the problem is that whenever someone gets a vibration of any sort the immediate assumed problem is SHIMMY. Unless someone confirms visually that it is a shimmy the original poster may be chasing the wrong problem. I have had these problems and chased shimmy causal factors until I had someone videotape the nose wheel and it was immediately obvious that it was not shimmy, but out of round/out of balance. Heck it may be a main wheel/tire so the simple step of visually seeing what is happening when the problem is felt can save a lot of time. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: linn Walters To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 10:02 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue I don't think so. Out of round will cause the nose fork to bounce, not shimmy. Shimmy being a side to side motion. Tighten up on the nut that holds the nose fork on. The Grummans use belleville washers to create the drag necessary to prevent the shimmy. I don't know about the RV gears. To adjust the Grumman nose gear, you apply a spring scale to the wheel axle and torque the nut 'till the spring scale exerts at least 25 Lbs pull before the gear swivels. With the tire off the ground, of course! ;-) Linn Ron Lee wrote: The two most likely issues are out of balance and out of round. Since it is a new tire I would guess out of balance. It is easy to tell the difference between one or both of those and shimmy from the outside while taxiing Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________

January 17, 2008 - February 08, 2008

RV-Archive.digest.vol-tg