RV-Archive.digest.vol-th
February 08, 2008 - March 04, 2008
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel axle torque |
I have an Enco 10 x 36 lathe in my basement. I also
have a 9 x 26 knee type (Bridgeport similar) mill.
Both have digital readouts. They are both great for
hobbyists and small work.
I have been building a nine cylinder radial engine on
these machines but RV building has been getting the
attention lately.
I am always looking for sidework, especially for RV
work. We have just moved into a new house and the
lathe and mill are in pieces. About a month I will be
up and running.
Dave
--- Scott wrote:
>
>
> Or maybe someone could start a little side business
> making them
> available to RVers ;) Of course, I won't need them
> for my RV-4 ;)
>
> Speaking of lathes, I'd love to have one. What do
> listers who own
> lathes recommend for a general purpose, non-wallet
> busting lathe??
>
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
>
>
>
> PSPRV6A(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> > On the 6A my son Eric & I are completing, we
> chose to put a
> > spacer between the inner races of the tapered
> roller bearings. This
> > permits the axle nut to be fully tightened without
> overloading the
> > bearings.
> > Having a metal lathe in our shop made it
> simple to trim the spacer
> > to exactly the right length. If you have easy
> access to a lathe, it is
> > a worthwhile improvement.
> >
> Paul
> > s. Petersen, Minnetonka MN
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of
> all time on AOL
> > Music.
> >
>
<http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp00300000002548>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Hoover <hooverra(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | New Nose Gear Leg & Fork Shimmy Issue |
Troubleshooting 101 says that if you change one variable and something
bad happens change it back!! In this case the most likely change was the
drag on the fork to strut bearing. The tire although it could have
changed probably not likely. Shimmy is more related to geometry and the
damping in the system it appears. I'm not an expert so look at this NACA
study on the subject and draw your own conclusion. The first thing I
would do is check the fork drag is to Van's spec
http://tinyurl.com/399cjn
Stability of castering wheels for aircraft landing gears
<http://ntrs.nasa.gov/search.jsp?R=849502&id=2&qs=Ntt%3DShimmy%26R%3D849502%26Ntk%3Dall%26qs%3DNo%26Ntx%3Dmode%2520matchall%26Ns%3DHarvestDate%257c1%26N%3D0%26id%3D2>
Author(s): Kantrowitz, Arthur
Abstract: A theoretical study was made of the *shimmy* of castering
wheels. The theory is based on the discovery of a phenomenon called
kinematic *shimmy*. Experimental checks, use being made of a model
having low-pressure ...
NASA Center: Langley Research Center
Publication Year: 1940
Added to NTRS: 2006-11-06
Accession Number: 93R21053; Document ID: 19930091763; Report Number:
NACA-TR-686
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A
hooverra at verizon dot net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel axle torque |
You can get smaller, cheaper, "all in one" machines, but in my opinion the
best bang for the buck is Grizzly's G4003
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g4003
they also have smaller, cheaper ones (and bigger, better ones), depending on
your budget. Grizzly's customer service has been excellent.
Brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose wheel axle torque
Or maybe someone could start a little side business making them
available to RVers ;) Of course, I won't need them for my RV-4 ;)
Speaking of lathes, I'd love to have one. What do listers who own
lathes recommend for a general purpose, non-wallet busting lathe??
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
8:12 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel axle torque |
Going with a gear head lathe is a good idea. I have a
belt drive head that is a pain to change speeds, but I
don't let it bother me. I do question the Grizzly
brand though. I was a member of a machining group and
I found the most complaints were with the Grizzly
brand. Not everything from Grizzly is bad, just that
they could have designed a better product, it appears
cost reductions in designs have caused problems with a
few of their products. I have an Enco lathe which is
a step or two above the Grizzly and have had no
problems other than I am on my third motor. Yes, I
burned up two Asian motors and finally they sent me an
American made motor and it has been purring along for
eight years now. All this was under warranty.
The best brand of machinery for the hobbyist would be
the Jet brand. I have a Jet mill that works just
fine...and I am still on my first motor. :D
Dave
--- Brian Meyette wrote:
>
>
> You can get smaller, cheaper, "all in one" machines,
> but in my opinion the
> best bang for the buck is Grizzly's G4003
>
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/g4003
>
> they also have smaller, cheaper ones (and bigger,
> better ones), depending on
> your budget. Grizzly's customer service has been
> excellent.
>
> Brian
> http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Scott
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 11:52 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose wheel axle torque
>
>
>
> Or maybe someone could start a little side business
> making them
> available to RVers ;) Of course, I won't need them
> for my RV-4 ;)
>
> Speaking of lathes, I'd love to have one. What do
> listers who own
> lathes recommend for a general purpose, non-wallet
> busting lathe??
>
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
>
>
> 8:12 PM
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel axle torque |
I agree on the Jet brand. I bought a new Jet lathe about a year ago and
have been very happy with it. One of the things I like about Jet is that
even though they are not made in the U.S. they are good quality and they
have technical support people and parts in the U.S. Their parts pricing is
also good. With most of the other brands of the made in China machinery you
can't get parts when you need them.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Nellis
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 3:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Nose wheel axle torque
Going with a gear head lathe is a good idea. I have a
belt drive head that is a pain to change speeds, but I
don't let it bother me. I do question the Grizzly
brand though. I was a member of a machining group and
I found the most complaints were with the Grizzly
brand. Not everything from Grizzly is bad, just that
they could have designed a better product, it appears
cost reductions in designs have caused problems with a
few of their products. I have an Enco lathe which is
a step or two above the Grizzly and have had no
problems other than I am on my third motor. Yes, I
burned up two Asian motors and finally they sent me an
American made motor and it has been purring along for
eight years now. All this was under warranty.
The best brand of machinery for the hobbyist would be
the Jet brand. I have a Jet mill that works just
fine...and I am still on my first motor. :D
Dave
--- Brian Meyette wrote:
>
>
> You can get smaller, cheaper, "all in one" machines,
> but in my opinion the
> best bang for the buck is Grizzly's G4003
>
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/g4003
>
> they also have smaller, cheaper ones (and bigger,
> better ones), depending on
> your budget. Grizzly's customer service has been
> excellent.
>
> Brian
> http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Scott
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 11:52 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose wheel axle torque
>
>
>
> Or maybe someone could start a little side business
> making them
> available to RVers ;) Of course, I won't need them
> for my RV-4 ;)
>
> Speaking of lathes, I'd love to have one. What do
> listers who own
> lathes recommend for a general purpose, non-wallet
> busting lathe??
>
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> Building RV-4 (Super Slow Build Version)
>
>
> 8:12 PM
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Patterson" <kbob(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Nose Gear spacer tip |
I also built a spacer about a year ago at annual. This year at annual the
wheel bearings had play in them when torqued down tight. It appears the
bearings have worn a touch and now it's loose. I trimmed the spacer and few
thousands and all is well. Keep this in mind if you build a spacer then fly
a bunch.
Kelly Patterson N716K
RV-6A PHX, AZ ~200 hours
Subject: RV-List: Nose wheel axle torque
On the 6A my son Eric & I are completing, we chose to put a spacer between
the inner races of the tapered roller bearings. This permits the axle nut
to
be fully tightened without overloading the bearings.
Having a metal lathe in our shop made it simple to trim the spacer to
exactly the right length. If you have easy access to a lathe, it is a
worthwhile improvement.
Paul s. Petersen, Minnetonka MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A paintable area |
Does any one have any estimate of the paintable surface area of an
RV-6A? My back of the envelope calculations indicates something the
neighborhood of 320 sq. feet. I wouldn't be surprised if that was off by
20%. Does any one have a more accurate figure?
I am priming my plane's exterior and after weighing a small piece before
and after priming I estimate it will have a 2 or 3 pounds of primer on
it when I'm done. The color coat will be more. From what the painter
says (I'm not doing the color coat), I'd guess at least twice that.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A paintable area |
My professionally done RV-6 paint job added 17 pounds. This was using Sherwin
Williams Jet Glo with about 50% of the airframe having a yellow coat over the
base white and with no clear coat except for some clear coated metallic stripes
. I know of some clear coated multi color RV finishes that weigh close to twice
that.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, flying - 435 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
>
> Does any one have any estimate of the paintable surface area of an
> RV-6A? My back of the envelope calculations indicates something the
> neighborhood of 320 sq. feet. I wouldn't be surprised if that was off by
> 20%. Does any one have a more accurate figure?
>
> I am priming my plane's exterior and after weighing a small piece before
> and after priming I estimate it will have a 2 or 3 pounds of primer on
> it when I'm done. The color coat will be more. From what the painter
> says (I'm not doing the color coat), I'd guess at least twice that.
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Service Bulletin 07-11-09 |
Listers,
Just a note to caution all with RV-XAs that are subject to Service
Bulletin 07-11-09 to help you avoid making the mistake I made.
Since I have been doing my Condition Inspection in February, one of the
first things I did was remove the nose gear leg and send it away for
modification. I then ordered a new nose fork from Van's via the Web
Store. My rationale was that the leg mod could be going on while I
completed the inspection and would be returned in a couple of weeks, or
so, and the fork would be delivered in about a week, the usual time for
UPS ground from the West Coast.
Well, after a few days, I checked with Van's web site to see if my fork
order had been shipped. I did not find my web order on the list. To get
first hand information, I called Van's to find out if there was reason
for delay.
The answer was "it may be a "COUPLE OF MONTHS" ; " the pile of orders is
about THREE inches thick".
So, I have an RV-6A and its old fork and am awaiting return of my
modified gear leg and may have to wait a couple of months to get my new
fork.
So, the obvious advice is: check with Van's to find out the current
backlog of orders for the new fork BEFORE you send away your gear leg.
Good luck!!!
Richard Dudley
RV-6(?A?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | EA OIL COOLER II dimensions |
Does anyone have the dimensions for the mounting holes for the EA OIL COOLER
II from Vans?
I'm trying to determine if the mounting holes are the same as for the SW
8406R.
I didn't get any response to the comparison query earlier....this might be
easier....I already have the 8406R
Thanks,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin 07-11-09 |
I saw one person who cut (drilled) into the bottom of the fork
to accommodate the shortened gear leg.
Determine if that is an acceptable solution.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Dudley
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 8:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Service Bulletin 07-11-09
Listers,
Just a note to caution all with RV-XAs that are subject to Service
Bulletin 07-11-09 to help you avoid making the mistake I made.
Since I have been doing my Condition Inspection in February, one of
the first things I did was remove the nose gear leg and send it away for
modification. I then ordered a new nose fork from Van's via the Web
Store. My rationale was that the leg mod could be going on while I
completed the inspection and would be returned in a couple of weeks, or
so, and the fork would be delivered in about a week, the usual time for
UPS ground from the West Coast.
Well, after a few days, I checked with Van's web site to see if my
fork order had been shipped. I did not find my web order on the list. To
get first hand information, I called Van's to find out if there was
reason for delay.
The answer was "it may be a "COUPLE OF MONTHS" ; " the pile of orders
is about THREE inches thick".
So, I have an RV-6A and its old fork and am awaiting return of my
modified gear leg and may have to wait a couple of months to get my new
fork.
So, the obvious advice is: check with Van's to find out the current
backlog of orders for the new fork BEFORE you send away your gear leg.
Good luck!!!
Richard Dudley
RV-6(?A?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin 07-11-09 |
Thank you Richard.
I just sat down at the computer to check on my order for the nose gear
fork (placed with Van's about two weeks ago) and received your message.
Guess I better forget about doing it with my Condition Inspection next
month.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Dudley
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Service Bulletin 07-11-09
Listers,
Just a note to caution all with RV-XAs that are subject to Service
Bulletin 07-11-09 to help you avoid making the mistake I made.
Since I have been doing my Condition Inspection in February, one of
the first things I did was remove the nose gear leg and send it away for
modification. I then ordered a new nose fork from Van's via the Web
Store. My rationale was that the leg mod could be going on while I
completed the inspection and would be returned in a couple of weeks, or
so, and the fork would be delivered in about a week, the usual time for
UPS ground from the West Coast.
Well, after a few days, I checked with Van's web site to see if my
fork order had been shipped. I did not find my web order on the list. To
get first hand information, I called Van's to find out if there was
reason for delay.
The answer was "it may be a "COUPLE OF MONTHS" ; " the pile of orders
is about THREE inches thick".
So, I have an RV-6A and its old fork and am awaiting return of my
modified gear leg and may have to wait a couple of months to get my new
fork.
So, the obvious advice is: check with Van's to find out the current
backlog of orders for the new fork BEFORE you send away your gear leg.
Good luck!!!
Richard Dudley
RV-6(?A?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John DeCuir <jadecuir(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Slick Mag inspection |
Can anyone recommend a facility in Northern Cal or the western states
area for Slick Magneto inspection? I'm due for the 500 hr check, and I
have reason to believe there may be a minor problem and possible
repair in order.
John DeCuir
N204CP, RV-4
Salinas, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slick Mag inspection |
In a message dated 2/11/2008 8:46:23 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
jadecuir(at)comcast.net writes:
Can anyone recommend a facility in Northern Cal or the western states
area for Slick Magneto inspection? I'm due for the 500 hr check, and I
have reason to believe there may be a minor problem and possible
repair in order.
============================================
I believe that Savage in Hayward can do this.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 883hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jimmy" <jimmy(at)jhill.biz> |
| Subject: | Re: Service Bulletin 07-11-09 |
Have any of you used a local machine shop to cut off and re-thread the
gear leg?
Jimmy
8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Lee
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Service Bulletin 07-11-09
I saw one person who cut (drilled) into the bottom of the fork
to accommodate the shortened gear leg.
Determine if that is an acceptable solution.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Dudley
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 8:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Service Bulletin 07-11-09
Listers,
Just a note to caution all with RV-XAs that are subject to Service
Bulletin 07-11-09 to help you avoid making the mistake I made.
Since I have been doing my Condition Inspection in February, one of
the first things I did was remove the nose gear leg and send it away for
modification. I then ordered a new nose fork from Van's via the Web
Store. My rationale was that the leg mod could be going on while I
completed the inspection and would be returned in a couple of weeks, or
so, and the fork would be delivered in about a week, the usual time for
UPS ground from the West Coast.
Well, after a few days, I checked with Van's web site to see if my
fork order had been shipped. I did not find my web order on the list. To
get first hand information, I called Van's to find out if there was
reason for delay.
The answer was "it may be a "COUPLE OF MONTHS" ; " the pile of
orders is about THREE inches thick".
So, I have an RV-6A and its old fork and am awaiting return of my
modified gear leg and may have to wait a couple of months to get my new
fork.
So, the obvious advice is: check with Van's to find out the current
backlog of orders for the new fork BEFORE you send away your gear leg.
Good luck!!!
Richard Dudley
RV-6(?A?)
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Williams" <mr.gsun(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler mount / wedge |
Is the Sam James plenum working out as promised? Anyone out there flying
with one that has an opinion? Wondering if it is worth retrofitting into a
Van's RV-7 cowl.
On Tue, Feb 5, 2008 at 4:06 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Robby Attaway http://www.attawayair.com/index.html had a mount that
> would attach to the aft baffle, don't know if it will work with the SJ
> plenum, as the plenum is placed pretty low wrt to the baffle. It's not
> listed on his site, but If you call him he will let you know about it.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Ralph E. Capen wrote:
> >
> > I'm working on my plenum/baffling. I'm starting with Vans baffle kit.
> I have decided that I would like to mount the oil cooler off the back of
> the #3 cyl back plate instead of the firewall.
> >
> > I'm also using a Sam James plenum - I'll be contacting them too!
> >
> > How have others done it? I'll even look at firewall mounts - to see if
> there are any good ones
> >
> > Anyone have plans for the wedge option that I have seen (somewhere)?
> > Thanks,
> > Ralph
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler mount / wedge |
I haven't had a chance to contact Robby yet and I haven't had any other
responses about a wedge mount.
>From the SamJamesd instructions show - it looks like the wedge in their
photo is in a RV-4 so it may not work with my 6A - even with their
plenum.
I'll let you know what happens as I need to do something!
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Williams
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil cooler mount / wedge
Is the Sam James plenum working out as promised? Anyone out there
flying with one that has an opinion? Wondering if it is worth
retrofitting into a Van's RV-7 cowl.
On Tue, Feb 5, 2008 at 4:06 PM, Deems Davis
wrote:
Robby Attaway http://www.attawayair.com/index.html had a mount
that
would attach to the aft baffle, don't know if it will work with the
SJ
plenum, as the plenum is placed pretty low wrt to the baffle. It's
not
listed on his site, but If you call him he will let you know about
it.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> I'm working on my plenum/baffling. I'm starting with Vans baffle
kit. I have decided that I would like to mount the oil cooler off the
back of the #3 cyl back plate instead of the firewall.
>
> I'm also using a Sam James plenum - I'll be contacting them too!
>
> How have others done it? I'll even look at firewall mounts - to
see if there are any good ones
>
> Anyone have plans for the wedge option that I have seen
(somewhere)?
> Thanks,
> Ralph
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler mount / wedge |
I have the Sam James plenum and cowls on my RV7A..........since new.
While I can't give any before and after performance figures I don't
think I'm getting any better performance than those with "stock"
equipment. Overheating has never been a problem under any conditions,
even on hot Florida summer days. My CHT's however are quite uneven with
the #4 cylinder running up to 100 degrees cooler than cylinders 1,2 &3.
As to speed, I was led to believe I'd pick up 10 to 15 MPH over stock,
but I don't think that's happening. At 8,000 ft, 2,700 RPM I see about
195-200 MPH ground speed on a no-wind day. I have an Aerosport IO360
and a Catto fixed pitch prop.
Garry Stout, Tampa FL
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Williams
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil cooler mount / wedge
Is the Sam James plenum working out as promised? Anyone out there
flying with one that has an opinion? Wondering if it is worth
retrofitting into a Van's RV-7 cowl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Burns" <burnsm(at)suddenlink.net> |
| Subject: | EA OIL COOLER II dimensions |
Ralph,
The oil cooler has a six hole rectangular pattern.
Two rows of three holes with 1-1/2" spacing.
And the rows are 3-7/8" apart.
Hope this helps.
This is for the Niagara 20002A Oil cooler which I believe is what Vans sells
as the Oil Cooler II.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 9:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: EA OIL COOLER II dimensions
Does anyone have the dimensions for the mounting holes for the EA OIL COOLER
II from Vans?
I'm trying to determine if the mounting holes are the same as for the SW
8406R.
I didn't get any response to the comparison query earlier....this might be
easier....I already have the 8406R
Thanks,
Ralph
8:16 AM
8:16 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | EA OIL COOLER II dimensions |
Thanks....
-----Original Message-----
>From: Mark Burns <burnsm(at)suddenlink.net>
>Sent: Feb 11, 2008 11:53 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: EA OIL COOLER II dimensions
>
>
>Ralph,
>
>The oil cooler has a six hole rectangular pattern.
>
>Two rows of three holes with 1-1/2" spacing.
>
>And the rows are 3-7/8" apart.
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>This is for the Niagara 20002A Oil cooler which I believe is what Vans sells
>as the Oil Cooler II.
>
>Mark
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 9:46 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: EA OIL COOLER II dimensions
>
>
>Does anyone have the dimensions for the mounting holes for the EA OIL COOLER
>
>II from Vans?
>
>I'm trying to determine if the mounting holes are the same as for the SW
>8406R.
>
>I didn't get any response to the comparison query earlier....this might be
>easier....I already have the 8406R
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph
>
>
>8:16 AM
>
>
>8:16 AM
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
I just read a report that AIG was taking a big writedown and shares
price falling a bunch. Any ideas as to how that might affect our
insurance? I think most or at least many policies end up with AIG, at
leqst mine with AOPA agencty does. Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AIG insurance |
Charlie, I have Global Insurance on my RV6-A but I wouldn't worry. Insuranc
e companies even weathered the Great Depression when a large of amount of b
usiness's failed.
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 8:04:28 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RV-List: AIG insurance
I just read a report that AIG was taking a big writedown and shares price f
alling a bunch. Any ideas as to how that might affect our insurance? I thin
k most or at least many policies end up with AIG, at leqst mine with AOPA a
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Patterson" <kbob(at)cox.net> |
Richard,
I modified my stock fork to look like the new fork. Basically - you slice
an inch off the bottom and bolt it back on. You will need a bandsaw or
powered hacksaw to do the cutting this century. I'm flying mine now with no
issues. This mod could get you back flying in a day. email offline if you
want details: kbob at cox dot net
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A N716K
PHX, AZ 200 hrs
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Service Bulletin 07-11-09
I saw one person who cut (drilled) into the bottom of the fork
to accommodate the shortened gear leg.
Determine if that is an acceptable solution.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Dudley
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 8:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Service Bulletin 07-11-09
Listers,
Just a note to caution all with RV-XAs that are subject to Service
Bulletin 07-11-09 to help you avoid making the mistake I made.
......
So, I have an RV-6A and its old fork and am awaiting return of my
modified gear leg and may have to wait a couple of months to get my new
fork.
So, the obvious advice is: check with Van's to find out the current
backlog of orders for the new fork BEFORE you send away your gear leg.
Good luck!!!
Richard Dudley
RV-6(?A?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Williams" <mr.gsun(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler mount / wedge |
Garry, That speed seems in line with stock. Sure would be a lot of work to
change over to SJ plenum & cowl for me at this point. What MP are you
getting @ 8K' and 2700 rpm?
On 2/11/08, Garry wrote:
>
> I have the Sam James plenum and cowls on my RV7A..........since new.
> While I can't give any before and after performance figures I don't think
> I'm getting any better performance than those with "stock" equipment.
> Overheating has never been a problem under any conditions, even on hot
> Florida summer days. My CHT's however are quite uneven with the #4 cylinder
> running up to 100 degrees cooler than cylinders 1,2 &3. As to speed, I was
> led to believe I'd pick up 10 to 15 MPH over stock, but I don't think that's
> happening. At 8,000 ft, 2,700 RPM I see about 195-200 MPH ground speed on a
> no-wind day. I have an Aerosport IO360 and a Catto fixed pitch prop.
>
> Garry Stout, Tampa FL
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Greg Williams
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Monday, February 11, 2008 7:19 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Oil cooler mount / wedge
>
> Is the Sam James plenum working out as promised? Anyone out there flying
> with one that has an opinion? Wondering if it is worth retrofitting into a
> Van's RV-7 cowl.
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
If I have proven one thing to myself it's that I suck using the
archives. I review them each time before I post a question with limited
success.
It is time to make a Cowl Fastener decision. I plan on using Skybolt
STYLE CLoc adjustable fasteners on part of my cowl assembly. I remember
a discussion on the list that suggested alternate brands or styles of
these fasteners. Does anyone have a preference as to the fastener you
would choose as my archive search has been fruitless.
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A New Front Gear Leg and Fork
RV-10 Getting closer to getting closer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ptrotter(at)optonline.net |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
Robin,
The 2 suppliers I know of are Skybolt and Milspec. I have Milspec myself. I think the products are comparable but I don't know the current pricing for either one. Jeremy at Milspec is very easy to work with and I recommend calling him if you have any questions. I bought mine when we had a group buy a couple of years ago and I wanted to change the length of the studs and he did so with no hassle at all even though it was quite awhile later. www.milspecproducts.com
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Marks
Date: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 12:14 pm
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Fasteners
> If I have proven one thing to myself it's that I suck using the
> archives. I review them each time before I post a question with
> limitedsuccess.
>
> It is time to make a Cowl Fastener decision. I plan on using Skybolt
> STYLE CLoc adjustable fasteners on part of my cowl assembly. I
> remembera discussion on the list that suggested alternate brands
> or styles of
> these fasteners. Does anyone have a preference as to the
> fastener you
> would choose as my archive search has been fruitless.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robin
>
> RV-4 Sold
>
> RV-6A New Front Gear Leg and Fork
>
> RV-10 Getting closer to getting closer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Williams" <mr.gsun(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AIG insurance |
Speaking of insurance, Do most RV owner/pilots carry hull insurance?
On 2/12/08, Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
> Charlie, I have Global Insurance on my RV6-A but I wouldn't worry.
> Insurance companies even weathered the Great Depression when a large of
> amount of business's failed.
>
> Tom
> in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
> To: "rv-list"
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 8:04:28 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
> Subject: RV-List: AIG insurance
>
> I just read a report that AIG was taking a big writedown and shares price
> falling a bunch. Any ideas as to how that might affect our insurance? I
> think most or at least many policies end up with AIG, at leqst mine with
> AOPA agencty does. Charlie Heathco
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AIG insurance |
Greg Williams wrote:
> Speaking of insurance, Do most RV owner/pilots carry hull insurance?
Can't speak for RV pilots since I'm not there yet ;-)
However all I carry on my airplanes is liability ..... and only because
the hangar owners require it. It's a gamble.
In my case I insured the Pitts I built with hull the first year. At
that time ('81) $25K of hull cost me an extra 1K. I figured I might
need it in the first year. I didn't.
13 years later, I hurt my pride and joy. It was a outside 1/2 loop on a
landing. The top wing was trashed and the lower engine mount/fuselage
tubing was bent. Repairs were less than $3K
So, lets do some math. 12 years X $1K = $12K in the bank less the $3K,
so I still had $9K on account at the time. It's been building ever since.
However, I might feel different on an airplane that's worth $100K or
more. I'll cross that bridge (airway???) when I come to it
I wonder if hull insurance is purchased mostly by pessimists rather than
optomists!!!! :-D . Somebody else will have to collect the data!!!
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Liability only for 8 of the last 10+ years.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,080 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
Speaking of insurance, Do most RV owner/pilots carry hull insurance?
_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging.-You IM, we g
ive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Spring Scale Source? |
I just completed the nose gear modification on my RV6A and used a
cobbled-up method of checking and setting the 'break out' force as
called for by Van. (22-lbs)
I would like to find a source for a push scale, likely a spring scale,
to more accurately measure the break out force to insure against any
shimmy or other problems. I flew once after the mod and had the force
way too light and got good shimmy. I've re-adjusted it but am still a
bit leery.
Any sources you know of? I checked the usual ones and came up dry.
Thanks for any pointers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
I agree. I haven't been able to make the archives work for me for
years. Way too much time involved with research and I usually don't
find the answer I need. Perhaps a different search format?
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Marks
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 9:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Fasteners
If I have proven one thing to myself it's that I suck using the
archives. I review them each time before I post a question with limited
success.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spring Scale Source? |
Almost any fish scale will work. Look in your local big-box store.
Linn
John Fasching wrote:
> I just completed the nose gear modification on my RV6A and used a
> cobbled-up method of checking and setting the 'break out' force as
> called for by Van. (22-lbs)
>
> I would like to find a source for a push scale, likely a spring scale,
> to more accurately measure the break out force to insure against any
> shimmy or other problems. I flew once after the mod and had the force
> way too light and got good shimmy. I've re-adjusted it but am still a
> bit leery.
>
> Any sources you know of? I checked the usual ones and came up dry.
>
> Thanks for any pointers.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
Me too. I find the archives pretty much useless.
David Maib
On Feb 12, 2008, at 9:55 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
I agree. I haven't been able to make the archives work for me for
years. Way too much time involved with research and I usually don't
find the answer I need. Perhaps a different search format?
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 9:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Fasteners
If I have proven one thing to myself it=92s that I suck using the
archives. I review them each time before I post a question with
limited success.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | nose wheel fork, bobbing and shimmy issues |
Wheel balance, out of round tire, Nose wheel fork breakout, axle nut
torque setting (bearing pre-load), wheel pant balance, nose wheel strut
mounting bolt torque, the actual castor angle and the presence (or not)
of some form of strut stiffener all add up to a rather complex
troubleshoot when nose wheel shimmy and or bobbing are suspected.
With the above in mind I offer this:
During the early test flights I observed my 6-A suffer severe nose wheel
bobbing and shimmy during touchdown and rollout. This resulted in some
damage to the wheel pant.
While investigating the cause I checked the "break out" force, the tire
pressure and the torque setting of the axle bolt nut.
All were to spec.
With the wheel off the ground I did note that with the axle torque at
spec. the wheel resisted rotational movement. The resistance to rotation
was similar to having a partially applied brake.
Suspecting that the resistance had a direct relationship to the nose
wheel "bobbing" I decided to reduce the axle toque to the point that the
wheel turned more freely.
During the next series of test flights the nose wheel bobbing was all
but gone and the shimmy was much less severe.
Lowering the tire pressure did not help the shimmy so I increased the
pressure. with the tire pressure at about 33 lb. the shimmy almost went
away. Increasing the "break out" a small amount got rid of the rest.
Van's nose wheel mod became an issue and I dismantled the nose wheel
gear in preparation .
It was at this point that I found the outer bearing spacers had been
turning causing damage to the old nose wheel fork. The damage was due to
the reduced axle bolt torque. After a bit of research I found that
others had run into this same condition.
I began a close examination of the axle bolt and all the related outer
spacers bearings etc. without the wheel pant in place.
I discovered that with the axle torque set at spec. the resulting
bearing pre-load contributed a large undesirable amount of drag to the
nose wheel's rotation. With a relatively small reduction of axle bolt
torque the seals and outer spacers could begin to turn with the wheel
any further reduction of axle torque allowed freewheeling of all the
various parts to occur.
With the wheel pant in place it was all but impossible to determine by
sight whether the outer spacers etc. where turning or not.
Therefore the only way to be sure the outer spacers and bearings are not
turning with the wheel is with the axle torque set to spec. I think this
torque setting excessively tightens the wheel bearing pre-load. This
then seems to induce negative nose wheel performance i.e. nose wheel
"bobbing"
During my earlier research I learned of someone else putting a spacer
between the bearings.
With the above in mind I made and fitted an inner bearing spacer. I
reduced the inner spacer width dimension until the wheel had zero run
out. I then reduced the spacer dimension a further five thousandths of
an inch. This reduced size should allow for some bearing wear in
(seating) and the seal material on the back of the bearing to crush a
bit with age.
With the spacer in place and the axle bolt torque set to vans spec. the
various axel parts are mechanically locked and do not turn with the
wheel and there is a small amount of drag that is caused by the bearing
grease seals interacting with the wheel.
I would expect that should bearing wear become an issue either bearing
replacement or a further reduction in spacer width might be called for.
The axle bolt torque could be increased without adverse effects to wheel
drag but I doubt that doing so is or should be required
The aircraft is not yet ready to test fly after the modifications
described above. Therefore I cannot predict the nose wheel performance
that will transpire as a result of the additional spacer. If need be it
can be omitted as no other changes to the nose wheel parts have been
made.
I'm told there haave been or are more than one supplier of wheels for
Vans products.
If inner spacers turn out to be effective it seems to me that a set of
specific spacer dimensions could be established.
I am not suggesting that others copy or emulate what I am experimenting
with.
however I am interested to have input in regard to the above,
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Hoover <hooverra(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Spring Scale Source? |
McMaster Carr http://tinyurl.com/x39j
50 lbs. 8 oz. 25 kg 250 g 12" x 1 5/16"
1757T39 43.75
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A
hooverra at verizon dot net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Barrett" <2thman(at)cablespeed.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
I'm continually surprised that builders want to use individual fasteners
along the composite cowls of their airplanes. Even the certified producers
are going to hinge attachments now. Look at the Columbia. Does anyone know
how the Cirrus does it?
This is partly a shameless plug because my company makes and sells Carbinge
graphite piano hinges that is used in so many home builts so be suspicious
of anything I say, but take the time to ask your colleagues who have used
hinges instead of fasteners.
Regards,
John Barrett, CEO
Leading Edge Composites
PO Box 428
Port Hadlock, WA 98339
www.carbinge.com
3:20 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Cowl Fasteners |
Hi Robin et al-
RE: > It is time to make a Cowl Fastener decision. I plan on using Skybolt
> STYLE CLoc adjustable fasteners on part of my cowl assembly. I
> remembera discussion on the list that suggested alternate brands
> or styles of
> these fasteners. Does anyone have a preference as to the
> fastener you
> would choose as my archive search has been fruitless.
A while back Aircraft Spruce had RV cowl fastener kits available. IIRC
they were Skybolt hardware. The RV-8 kit was about half the cost of all
the others for some reason. If that offer is still out there, it might be
a good source for the hardware for any RV.
FWIW-
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mauri" <maurv8(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
Hey, Robin, checkout
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/camlocks.htm
This may give you some help.
Mauri
RV-8 still finishing
Polson, MT
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Marks
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 10:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Fasteners
If I have proven one thing to myself it's that I suck using the
archives. I review them each time before I post a question with limited
success.
It is time to make a Cowl Fastener decision. I plan on using Skybolt
STYLE CLoc adjustable fasteners on part of my cowl assembly. I remember
a discussion on the list that suggested alternate brands or styles of
these fasteners. Does anyone have a preference as to the fastener you
would choose as my archive search has been fruitless.
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A New Front Gear Leg and Fork
RV-10 Getting closer to getting closer
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
2/12/2008 9:31 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
John,
I am happy to have the shameless plug I didn't know about graphite hinges. My
plan was to use the individual fasteners only on the upper firewall curve and
the underside of the bottom cowl. I do not think the curved piano hinge on the
upper portion of the cowl works well and I really don't care for the two tabs
sticking out of the cowl.
That being said I especially like the concept of bonding composite to composite.
What I don't care for is the difference in pricing between metal & composite
hinges. From my brief search a 6 foot piano hinge runs about $11.00 while a
4 foot Carbinge Piano Hinge is $160.00 before the $32.00 Carbinge Keeper. Did
I find the wrong source for these hinges? As a rough estimate if I were to do
my entire Sam James Cowl with graphite hinges would it take 5 sets of hinges to
complete. If so that would put the cost of hinges at 80% of the cost of the
cowl.
Please don't get me wrong, I have shown a willingness to spend more than I should
on small improvements and creature comforts for this plane but nearly $1,000
for cowl hinges seems excessive even to me... Did I miscalculate? I finally
figured out why a loaded Cirrus or Columbia is pushing $600,000, the hinges!
Thanks,
Robin
I'm continually surprised that builders want to use individual fasteners
along the composite cowls of their airplanes. Even the certified producers
are going to hinge attachments now. Look at the Columbia. Does anyone know
how the Cirrus does it?
This is partly a shameless plug because my company makes and sells Carbinge
graphite piano hinges that is used in so many home builts so be suspicious
of anything I say, but take the time to ask your colleagues who have used
hinges instead of fasteners.
Regards,
John Barrett, CEO
Leading Edge Composites
PO Box 428
Port Hadlock, WA 98339
www.carbinge.com
3:20 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
Regarding cowl fastners and hinging. As we have done with our Glastar, we
are going to use 1/4 turn fastners around the firewall/cowl intersection and
a hinge between the upper and lower cowl halves. However, we will not be
using the Van's supplied rolled hinging. The far superior extruded hinge
material is the way to go. Its available from spruce.
-Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
At 09:00 AM 2/13/08, you wrote:
>
>I'm continually surprised that builders want to use individual fasteners
>along the composite cowls of their airplanes. Even the certified producers
>are going to hinge attachments now. Look at the Columbia. Does anyone know
>how the Cirrus does it?
I tried to use hinges on my cowl. After about 30 hours of trying to
get the top hinges to fit around the curve, I gave up and ordered
fasteners. Also the hinges all broke in the bottom of the cowl, and
the parts of the cowl where I did use hinges, they are not that user
friendly to the surrounding paint, the cowl, or the ripped up skin on
my hands and fingers.
I would have loved to use $15.00 worth of hinges rather than the
$400+ for the fasteners. But, sometimes you just have to do what you
have to do!
Fasteners Vs Hinges, this is a case of a real bad solution or a
really bad solution, in my opinion.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean Pichon <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
I am in the middle of replacing the hinges on my -4 with Skybolt fasteners.
I have completed the section connecting the upper cowl half to the firewa
ll and will soon start on the joint between upper and lower cowl halves.
I had the rolled hinges as supplied with the kit and have broken a few eyel
ets. I much prefer the extruded hinge (to the rolled), but am concerned th
e (tighter?) tolerances of the extruded hinge may make it difficult or impo
ssible to install the hinge pin along the curved surface of the cowl halves
.
Has anyone used the extruded hinge in this application?
Regards,
Dean Pichon
RV-4/400 hrs> From: rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com> Subject
: Re: RV-List: Re: Cowl Fasteners > Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 12:45:43 -0500>
ng cowl fastners and hinging. As we have done with our Glastar, we > are go
ing to use 1/4 turn fastners around the firewall/cowl intersection and > a
hinge between the upper and lower cowl halves. However, we will not be > us
ing the Van's supplied rolled hinging. The far superior extruded hinge > ma
terial is the way to go. Its available from spruce.> > > -Bob Newman> TCW T
========> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging.-You IM, we g
ive.
________________________________________________________________________________
Kelly did you have the modified gear leg or did you also cut your old leg?
Thanks
Rollie
**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy
Awards. Go to AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
In a message dated 02/13/2008 12:47:46 PM Central Standard Time,
panamared5(at)brier.net writes:
Also the hinges all broke in the bottom of the cowl, and
the parts of the cowl where I did use hinges, they are not that user
friendly to the surrounding paint, the cowl, or the ripped up skin on
my hands and fingers.
>>>
Also consider countersunk 8-32 screws (six each side) for the bottom, with
platenuts mounted on a strip riveted to lower firewall flange. Not a problem in
450+ hours on my RV-6A.
Mark
**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy
Awards. Go to AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Metal lathe observations |
Most of my pre-retirement career was spent as a consulting engineer, but
way, way back had some background in machine shops. About 15 years ago I
purchased a metal lathe for my own basement shop. It is a 14" X 36" geared head
with quick-change headstock gears and threading. I replaced the original
single phase motor with a three phase for quick reversing.
The brand is Wey-Y11 from Taiwan where LOTS of this kind of machinery
comes from. There are plenty of other brands, but you are rather tied to these
sources if you want good bang for the buck. I remember spending about two
grand for it back then. There are fairly good smaller belt-drive lathes
available for much less. Try the search function on your computer or maybe even
E-bay.
Hope that might be of some help. Paul S. Petersen,
RV6A with son Eric, 99% done
**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy
Awards. Go to AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Nosewheel Fork bushing Drawing 62 |
Folks,
I need to order a new set of nosewheel fork bushings to go in to my soon to arrive
(non-Vans) 5x5 nosewheel fork.
I understand they are listed on drawing 62 and may be called U-612....I can't find
that in Vans 'list' to order. I don't have the drawing here with me. I'm
also figuring that I'll destroy the bushings from my current fork if I try to
remove them and re-use them.
If someone could read that number from their drawing I would appreciate it.
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nosewheel Fork bushing Drawing 62 |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Ralph,
Give me the shaft size and the size of the hole that the bushing
goes into. It is a flanged "oilite" bushing. I sell a series of oilite
bushings so its not rocket science.
Jim Nelson
N15JN
(ready for paint)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nosewheel Fork bushing Drawing 62 |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Ralph,
I need to know the length of bushing you need. The bushings need
full support. So what ever the bushing goes into, measure the area that
the bushing is supported by the fork. Any hollow area is a non-support
area for the bushing.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Nosewheel Fork bushing Drawing 62 |
Here's what I got from Vans.
I got good info from others too - thanks!
----- Original Message -----
From: orders(at)vansaircraft.com
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: U-612 nosewheel fork bushing
Ralph,
We don't sell the bushings but, you can order them direct
from: EXPRMENTAL AIRCRAFT phone 360-245-3478 and
the part number is "BUSHING SF-4048-16".
Best Regards
Van's Aircraft
Ralph E. Capen 14 Feb 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Send reply to: "Ralph E. Capen"
Subject: U-612 nosewheel fork bushing
> I would like to order a pair of these bushings with my next web
> order - but I can't find them on 'the list'. What do I put where on
> the web order to get these?
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph
> 60431
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nosewheel Fork bushing Drawing 62 |
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
Note: ACS has a SYMMCO SF-4048-20 listed in their web catalog that
differs only in length (1.25" v 1").
Google for SYMMCO for details.
Doug
> Your right,it is listed as U-612 on my RV-6A plans. The specs say it
> is a
> Simco # SF-4048-16. And like you I can not find it in Van's parts
> list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nose wheel Fork bushing Drawing 62 |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Ralph and Doug,
Yup, its a standard Oilite flanged bushing. The P/N says it is
flanged 1-1/4" x 1-1/2" x 1" long. You can get it at any bearing store
that stocks the oilite style bearings. Bunting is also another
manufacturer of "oilite" type bearings. If you can not find anyone,
then let me know and I'll get some for you. Probably off my shelf or if
I have to, order them with my next order of oilite bearings.
Jim Nelson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
I have hinges only for fasteners on my -4 and have had almost zero
problems in 1435 hours. The only problem so far was a rivet broke behind
the spinner where the hinges (extruded type) join the top and bottom
cowl halves. This area is subject to the most stress and if I were doing
another, I would use 2 or 3 screws instead. Otherwise, I have had no
broken eyes or chipped paint, etc. I was pretty careful when bonding and
riveting to make sure there was no built-in stress on the hinge halves.
The cowl attaches to the fuselage with 1/8" hinges, but uses a 3/32" pin
on the highly curved top half. It sure is easy to remove for
maintenance. Just another data point.
Ivan Haecker -4 1435 hrs. S. Cen. TX
----- Original Message -----
From: Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Cowl Fasteners
In a message dated 02/13/2008 12:47:46 PM Central Standard Time,
panamared5(at)brier.net writes:
Also the hinges all broke in the bottom of the cowl, and
the parts of the cowl where I did use hinges, they are not that user
friendly to the surrounding paint, the cowl, or the ripped up skin
on
my hands and fingers.
>>>
Also consider countersunk 8-32 screws (six each side) for the bottom,
with platenuts mounted on a strip riveted to lower firewall flange. Not
a problem in 450+ hours on my RV-6A.
Mark
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy Awards. AOL
Music takes you there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Hilditch" <wmjack1(at)t3cs.net> |
| Subject: | Nosewheel Fork bushing Drawing 62 |
I Googled the part number and came up with a bronze bearing & bushing supply
house called American Sleeve Bearing. The URL takes you to their PDF catalog:
http://www.asbbearings.com/products/catalog05.pdf
Jack Hilditch
RV-9A
Wings & Emp finished, working on fuse
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 8:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Nosewheel Fork bushing Drawing 62
Here's what I got from Vans.
I got good info from others too - thanks!
----- Original Message -----
From: orders(at)vansaircraft.com
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: U-612 nosewheel fork bushing
Ralph,
We don't sell the bushings but, you can order them direct
from: EXPRMENTAL AIRCRAFT phone 360-245-3478 and
the part number is "BUSHING SF-4048-16".
Best Regards
Van's Aircraft
Ralph E. Capen >14
Feb 2008
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Send reply to: "Ralph E. Capen"
Subject: U-612 nosewheel fork bushing
> I would like to order a pair of these bushings with my next web
> order - but I can't find them on 'the list'. What do I put where on
> the web order to get these?
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph
> 60431
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Trim Tab Material? |
Hey all...looking for some bright ideas on a trim tab. I made one out of wood.
A wedge shape. Taped on the rudder and nailed the size and location...pure
luck. Anyway, what have others seen that would look very clean and work well?
How did you fasten it? I was thinking of a solid piece of machined alluminum,
but not sure how to mount it on the skin.
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim Tab Material? |
It has been awhile since I installed this little wedge with double sided carpet
tape per plans and has since been painted over. Works great.
http://tinyurl.com/2rlafg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Patterson" <kbob(at)cox.net> |
Paul,
I did what I think is the cleanest installation...
Attach a 'screen door' spring from the rudder pedal to the firewall, on the
pedal that needs a little push. I made up 2 springs about 6" long and
attached them both to my right pedal on the passenger side. You can also
adjust tension by shortening the spring, or drilling another hole. Fly it
until you get the right combo for ball centered. Practically invisible. Same
principle as Van's aileron trim.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A N716K
PHX, AZ
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
Hey all...looking for some bright ideas on a trim tab. I made one out of
wood.
A wedge shape. Taped on the rudder and nailed the size and location...pure
luck. Anyway, what have others seen that would look very clean and work
well?
How did you fasten it? I was thinking of a solid piece of machined
alluminum,
but not sure how to mount it on the skin.
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <ollie6a(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim Tab Material? |
Use good quality double back tape.
Ollie
On Fri, Feb 15, 2008 at 1:23 AM, Paul Besing wrote:
> Hey all...looking for some bright ideas on a trim tab. I made one out of
> wood. A wedge shape. Taped on the rudder and nailed the size and
> location...pure luck. Anyway, what have others seen that would look very
> clean and work well? How did you fasten it? I was thinking of a solid
> piece of machined alluminum, but not sure how to mount it on the skin.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-4 N73DD
> Arizona
>
> ------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sheldon barrett" <sheldonb(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim Tab Material? |
Paul... I did a aluminium tab on the bottom of the rudder... easy to
adjust... with a shape that gives the plane a little longer look (I
think ha).. However, some say not the best place for the tab
efficiency... See attached shot...
Sheldon
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 11:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
Hey all...looking for some bright ideas on a trim tab. I made one out
of wood. A wedge shape. Taped on the rudder and nailed the size and
location...pure luck. Anyway, what have others seen that would look
very clean and work well? How did you fasten it? I was thinking of a
solid piece of machined alluminum, but not sure how to mount it on the
skin.
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Be a better friend, newshound, and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
I have been thinking about this thing and wonder why we cant put the new
fork on the existing rod which would end up giving the same clearance as
if we cut off and inch and rethreaded it?? would change the sitting
angle just barley. Am I missing something here? I havent asked Vans
about this yet, wanted to see if anyone else has thought about this.
Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim Tab Material? |
Paul Besing wrote:
> Hey all...looking for some bright ideas on a trim tab. I made one
> out of wood. A wedge shape. Taped on the rudder and nailed the size
> and location...pure luck. Anyway, what have others seen that would
> look very clean and work well? How did you fasten it? I was
> thinking of a solid piece of machined alluminum, but not sure how to
> mount it on the skin.
Paul, I took the balsa wedge I used for testing and covered it with
black Monokote to match the rudder and RTV'ed it to the rudder. I needed
some Monokote on the plane in honor of my R/C background. ;-)
A few years later after changing wheelpants and gear fairings, the tab
needed to be redone so I bent one out of 0.016 aluminum (formed it with
closed ends and back) and pop riveted it to the rudder. Its been there
for several years now.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim Tab Material? |
Sheldon,
Where exactly would be the best location for good tab efficiency?
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: sheldon barrett
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
Paul... I did a aluminium tab on the bottom of the rudder... easy to
adjust... with a shape that gives the plane a little longer look (I
think ha).. However, some say not the best place for the tab
efficiency... See attached shot...
Sheldon
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 11:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
Hey all...looking for some bright ideas on a trim tab. I made one
out of wood. A wedge shape. Taped on the rudder and nailed the size
and location...pure luck. Anyway, what have others seen that would look
very clean and work well? How did you fasten it? I was thinking of a
solid piece of machined alluminum, but not sure how to mount it on the
skin.
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Be a better friend, newshound, and
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: nose gear mod |
Charlie,
Why would you put the new fork onto the old rod, and therefore giving
you the same clearance as before.... Isn't improving the ground
clearance the entire reasoning behind this modification? You might as
well keep the old fork then too, as you would not gain the desired
effect for dig in-/roll over prevention by just swapping out the fork,
but not the rod. If you don't care about gaining any ground clearance
then why even bother. I am sure that there is a good number of people
out there that did not care about swapping the gearleg & fork as both
work fine. It mainly depends on what surface you land on, and I have
never landed on anything but an asphalt runway which obviously would not
really even need this mod... My 0.02 worth.
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Heathco
To: rv-list
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 7:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: nose gear mod
I have been thinking about this thing and wonder why we cant put the
new fork on the existing rod which would end up giving the same
clearance as if we cut off and inch and rethreaded it?? would change the
sitting angle just barley. Am I missing something here? I havent asked
Vans about this yet, wanted to see if anyone else has thought about
this. Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WOW - What a difference |
| From: | joelrhaynes(at)aol.com |
I've been flying my 7A for about 1.5 years and 150 hours.? It remains?unpainted
and the cowl at the time of the first flight was structurally?complete but the
spinner?gap was never to my liking since it was nice at the top (0.25 inch)
but too?wide on the sides and particularly so on the bottom.? My philosophy was
to get it in the air, enjoy flying,?and?take my time in completing the fairings
and final fiberglass finishing before painting (I still like this strategy).?
So over the last few weeks I spent a good 25 hours filling all the pin holes,
re-working the spinner opening with some layups and flox, and getting a nice
coat of primer on the cowl to hold me until the real paint goes on.? The cosmetic
outcome was very nice.? Then I went flying.? Holy s**t, it's a different
airplane.? I picked up 3-4 knots in cruise and my CHTs dropped 20-25 degrees.?
My leaned out cruise CHTs at 2500 rpm and 7500 ft?were 325 deg F yesterday
with the?OAT around freezing.? On a 1500 fpm climb ou
t I did not get above 350 on any cylinder.??Before the changes I would sometimes
need to?push the nose down when I got to around 380 on #3.? The cosmetic outcome
was satisfying enough.??The added performance is gravy.
Joel Haynes
N557XW
Bozeman, MT
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
Proseal,
If you make a .020 tab instead you can always adjust it a bit.
And you can make its trailing edge flush with the rudder trailing edge as it
will never need to be bent/adjusted to the other side.
Do bond it across at least one stringer.
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
Hey all...looking for some bright ideas on a trim tab. I made one out of
wood.
A wedge shape. Taped on the rudder and nailed the size and location...pure
luck. Anyway, what have others seen that would look very clean and work
well?
How did you fasten it? I was thinking of a solid piece of machined
alluminum,
but not sure how to mount it on the skin.
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
Ya know, I do have some Monokote laying around! Do you have any pics of the new
tab?
Thanks Sam..hope all is well with you.
Paul
----- Original Message ----
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 7:52:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
Paul Besing wrote:
> Hey all...looking for some bright ideas on a trim tab. I made one
> out of wood. A wedge shape. Taped on the rudder and nailed the size
> and location...pure luck. Anyway, what have others seen that would
> look very clean and work well? How did you fasten it? I was
> thinking of a solid piece of machined alluminum, but not sure how to
> mount it on the skin.
Paul, I took the balsa wedge I used for testing and covered it with
black Monokote to match the rudder and RTV'ed it to the rudder. I needed
some Monokote on the plane in honor of my R/C background. ;-)
A few years later after changing wheelpants and gear fairings, the tab
needed to be redone so I bent one out of 0.016 aluminum (formed it with
closed ends and back) and pop riveted it to the rudder. Its been there
for several years now.
Sam Buchanan
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim Tab Material? |
Very nice look...works well I assume?
----- Original Message ----
From: sheldon barrett <sheldonb(at)frontiernet.net>
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 7:48:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
DIV {
MARGIN:0px;}
Paul... I did a aluminium tab on the bottom of the
rudder... easy to adjust... with a shape that gives the plane a little longer
look (I think ha).. However, some say not the best place for the tab
efficiency... See attached shot...
Sheldon
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 11:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
Hey all...looking for some bright ideas on a trim tab. I made one out of
wood. A wedge shape. Taped on the rudder and nailed the size and location...pure
luck. Anyway, what have others seen that would look very clean and
work well? How did you fasten it? I was thinking of a solid piece of machined
alluminum, but not sure how to mount it on the skin.
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
Be a better friend, newshound, and href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 02/14/08 |
Speaking of yaw trim, does anybody know offhand how much stab offsett is now specified
for the RV-8?
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim tab |
Hi Paul-
RE:
looking for some bright ideas on a trim tab... ...I was thinking of a solid piece
of machined alluminum,
>but not sure how to mount it on the skin.
I'd be carefull about mounting a mass that far from the hinge line. There's probably
quite a flutter margin available, but it is impossible to know when you
are liable to start nibbling at the edge of the flutter envelope.
FWIW-
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | WOW - What a difference |
Joel,
To which item do you contribute the CHT temp improvement to? To which item
do you contribute the speed difference to?
Inquiring minds.
My CHT's are never below 380 in cruise and well over 420 in climb out.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of joelrhaynes(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 11:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
I've been flying my 7A for about 1.5 years and 150 hours. It remains
unpainted and the cowl at the time of the first flight was structurally
complete but the spinner gap was never to my liking since it was nice at the
top (0.25 inch) but too wide on the sides and particularly so on the bottom.
My philosophy was to get it in the air, enjoy flying, and take my time in
completing the fairings and final fiberglass finishing before painting (I
still like this strategy). So over the last few weeks I spent a good 25
hours filling all the pin holes, re-working the spinner opening with some
layups and flox, and getting a nice coat of primer on the cowl to hold me
until the real paint goes on. The cosmetic outcome was very nice. Then I
went flying. Holy s**t, it's a different airplane. I picked up 3-4 knots
in cruise and my CHTs dropped 20-25 degrees. My leaned out cruise CHTs at
2500 rpm and 7500 ft&nbs p;were 325 deg F yesterday with the OAT around
freezing. On a 1500 fpm climb out I did not get above 350 on any cylinder.
Before the changes I would sometimes need to push the nose down when I got
to around 380 on #3. The cosmetic outcome was satisfying enough. The added
performance is gravy.
Joel Haynes
N557XW
Bozeman, MT
_____
<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=ao
lcmp00050000000003> !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: nose gear mod |
My understanding, the 1 inch is what will hit the pot hole first,
consequently, after cutting off the existing rod the plane will have one
more inch of clearance. If you hold that nose up you will never have a
problem, that is my assumption, however, I should never assume anything.
Jim
RV9a Builder
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Heathco
To: rv-list
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 8:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: nose gear mod
I have been thinking about this thing and wonder why we cant put the
new fork on the existing rod which would end up giving the same
clearance as if we cut off and inch and rethreaded it?? would change the
sitting angle just barley. Am I missing something here? I havent asked
Vans about this yet, wanted to see if anyone else has thought about
this. Charlie Heathco
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
2/15/2008 9:00 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 02/14/08 |
Glen,
I don't remember how much offset is specified, but I believer I remember
that it has changed since my kit was ordered (1998). I think I recall Kevin
Horton talking about a change in the drawings.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Still building
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glen Matejcek
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 9:31 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 02/14/08
Speaking of yaw trim, does anybody know offhand how much stab offsett is now
specified for the RV-8?
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
I assume he's talking about putting a spacer above the new nose fork so it
resides at the bottom of the leg/axle giving the same clearance as the
shortened leg but with a higher ground angle due to an effectively taller
nose gear. Seems like a reasonable question but then I don't have a dog in
this fight - I'm doing a -6.
Regards,
Greg Young
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Konrad L. Werner
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: nose gear mod
Charlie,
Why would you put the new fork onto the old rod, and therefore giving you
the same clearance as before.... Isn't improving the ground clearance the
entire reasoning behind this modification? You might as well keep the old
fork then too, as you would not gain the desired effect for dig in-/roll
over prevention by just swapping out the fork, but not the rod. If you don't
care about gaining any ground clearance then why even bother. I am sure that
there is a good number of people out there that did not care about swapping
the gearleg & fork as both work fine. It mainly depends on what surface you
land on, and I have never landed on anything but an asphalt runway which
obviously would not really even need this mod... My 0.02 worth.
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Heathco <mailto:cheathco(at)cox.net>
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 7:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: nose gear mod
I have been thinking about this thing and wonder why we cant put the new
fork on the existing rod which would end up giving the same clearance as if
we cut off and inch and rethreaded it?? would change the sitting angle just
barley. Am I missing something here? I havent asked Vans about this yet,
wanted to see if anyone else has thought about this. Charlie Heathco
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
I'm going to guess that the improvement was due to cutting down the air
flow forward and then out of the cowl at the spinner gap. The venturi
effect there is huge! To further seal this area, get some pipe
insulating foam and fit it inside the cowl opening around the crank
..... like a donut with the cut in the foam facing outward. Reinstall
the spinner, paying no mind to the fact that the foam contacts the
spinner. A minute of engine run will trim the foam just fine and really
close off this escape route for cooling air.
Linn
joelrhaynes(at)aol.com wrote:
> I've been flying my 7A for about 1.5 years and 150 hours. It
> remains unpainted and the cowl at the time of the first flight was
> structurally complete but the spinner gap was never to my liking since
> it was nice at the top (0.25 inch) but too wide on the sides and
> particularly so on the bottom. My philosophy was to get it in the
> air, enjoy flying, and take my time in completing the fairings and
> final fiberglass finishing before painting (I still like this
> strategy). So over the last few weeks I spent a good 25 hours filling
> all the pin holes, re-working the spinner opening with some layups and
> flox, and getting a nice coat of primer on the cowl to hold me until
> the real paint goes on. The cosmetic outcome was very nice. Then I
> went flying. Holy s**t, it's a different airplane. I picked up 3-4
> knots in cruise and my CHTs dropped 20-25 degrees. My leaned out
> cruise CHTs at 2500 rpm and 7500 ft&nbs p;were 325 deg F yesterday
> with the OAT around freezing. On a 1500 fpm climb out I did not get
> above 350 on any cylinder. Before the changes I would sometimes need
> to push the nose down when I got to around 380 on #3. The cosmetic
> outcome was satisfying enough. The added performance is gravy.
>
> Joel Haynes
> N557XW
> Bozeman, MT
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> <http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp00050000000003>!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nose gear mod |
The disadvantage with this approach would seem to be that it increases the risk
of landing nosewheel first, rather than on the main gear first. Landing nose
wheel first would seem to be one factor that could lead to failure of the nose
landing gear.
Kevin Horton
> I assume he's talking about putting a spacer above the new nose fork so it
> resides at the bottom of the leg/axle giving the same clearance as the
> shortened leg but with a higher ground angle due to an effectively taller
> nose gear. Seems like a reasonable question but then I don't have a dog in
> this fight - I'm doing a -6.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Konrad L. Werner
> Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 11:11 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: nose gear mod
>
>
> Charlie,
> Why would you put the new fork onto the old rod, and therefore giving you
> the same clearance as before.... Isn't improving the ground clearance the
> entire reasoning behind this modification? You might as well keep the old
> fork then too, as you would not gain the desired effect for dig in-/roll
> over prevention by just swapping out the fork, but not the rod. If you don't
> care about gaining any ground clearance then why even bother. I am sure that
> there is a good number of people out there that did not care about swapping
> the gearleg & fork as both work fine. It mainly depends on what surface you
> land on, and I have never landed on anything but an asphalt runway which
> obviously would not really even need this mod... My 0.02 worth.
> Konrad
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Charles Heathco <mailto:cheathco(at)cox.net>
> To: rv-list
> Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 7:50 AM
> Subject: RV-List: nose gear mod
>
> I have been thinking about this thing and wonder why we cant put the new
> fork on the existing rod which would end up giving the same clearance as if
> we cut off and inch and rethreaded it?? would change the sitting angle just
> barley. Am I missing something here? I havent asked Vans about this yet,
> wanted to see if anyone else has thought about this. Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Trim Tab Material? |
I used a piece of 0.04 aluminum bent to shape and used carpet tape to
secure it to the rudder. Flew for 300 hrs without a problem.
John L. Danielson
307-266-2524
johnd(at)wlcwyo.com
WLC, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
Very nice look...works well I assume?
----- Original Message ----
From: sheldon barrett <sheldonb(at)frontiernet.net>
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 7:48:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
Paul... I did a aluminium tab on the bottom of the rudder... easy to
adjust... with a shape that gives the plane a little longer look (I
think ha).. However, some say not the best place for the tab
efficiency... See attached shot...
Sheldon
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <mailto:pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 11:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
Hey all...looking for some bright ideas on a trim tab. I made one out
of wood. A wedge shape. Taped on the rudder and nailed the size and
location...pure luck. Anyway, what have others seen that would look
very clean and work well? How did you fasten it? I was thinking of a
solid piece of machined alluminum, but not sure how to mount it on the
skin.
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
_____
Be a better friend, newshound, and
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tracy Crook" <tracy(at)rotaryaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
I had the same experience when closing this gap. I had no cooling
improvement due to my very different cooling system (liquid cooled
rotary engine) but I saw a 3 mph increase in cruise speed.
Conventional wisdom would indicate that the reduction in drag is due to the
simple reduction of the gap generated turbulance. I don't think this is
correct.
I think the reason for the speed increase is the reduction in the fan of
air spewing out of the gap. The air causes some kind of parasitic drag.
The spinner also acts like a centrifugal pump throwing air out of this gap.
Also, cooling drag is proportional to the number of CFM flowing through the
cooling inlets. Your cooling improvement was probably due to the increase
in pressure in you cooling plenum because the air was not being blead off
through the spinner gap. Even though the airflow through your cylinder
fins increased, the total flow through the inlets was probably decreased -
i.e., lower cooling drag.
Tracy Crook
On Fri, Feb 15, 2008 at 12:11 PM, wrote:
> I've been flying my 7A for about 1.5 years and 150 hours. It
> remains unpainted and the cowl at the time of the first flight was
> structurally complete but the spinner gap was never to my liking since it
> was nice at the top (0.25 inch) but too wide on the sides and particularly
> so on the bottom. My philosophy was to get it in the air, enjoy
> flying, and take my time in completing the fairings and final fiberglass
> finishing before painting (I still like this strategy). So over the last
> few weeks I spent a good 25 hours filling all the pin holes, re-working the
> spinner opening with some layups and flox, and getting a nice coat of primer
> on the cowl to hold me until the real paint goes on. The cosmetic outcome
> was very nice. Then I went flying. Holy s**t, it's a different airplane.
> I picked up 3-4 knots in cruise and my CHTs dropped 20-25 degrees. My
> leaned out cruise CHTs at 2500 rpm and 7500 ft&nbs p;were 325 deg F
> yesterday with the OAT around freezing. On a 1500 fpm climb out I did not
> get above 350 on any cylinder. Before the changes I would sometimes need
> to push the nose down when I got to around 380 on #3. The cosmetic outcome
> was satisfying enough. The added performance is gravy.
>
> Joel Haynes
> N557XW
> Bozeman, MT
> ------------------------------
> !
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | WOW - What a difference |
I am having a hard time visualizing where this pipe foam is being put.
Isn't the flywheel back there also turning? Do you have any pictures of
this installed?
Thanks
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 1:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
I'm going to guess that the improvement was due to cutting down the air flow
forward and then out of the cowl at the spinner gap. The venturi effect
there is huge! To further seal this area, get some pipe insulating foam and
fit it inside the cowl opening around the crank ..... like a donut with the
cut in the foam facing outward. Reinstall the spinner, paying no mind to
the fact that the foam contacts the spinner. A minute of engine run will
trim the foam just fine and really close off this escape route for cooling
air.
Linn
joelrhaynes(at)aol.com wrote:
I've been flying my 7A for about 1.5 years and 150 hours. It remains
unpainted and the cowl at the time of the first flight was structurally
complete but the spinner gap was never to my liking since it was nice at the
top (0.25 inch) but too wide on the sides and particularly so on the bottom.
My philosophy was to get it in the air, enjoy flying, and take my time in
completing the fairings and final fiberglass finishing before painting (I
still like this strategy). So over the last few weeks I spent a good 25
hours filling all the pin holes, re-working the spinner opening with some
layups and flox, and getting a nice coat of primer on the cowl to hold me
until the real paint goes on. The cosmetic outcome was very nice. Then I
went flying. Holy s**t, it's a different airplane. I picked up 3-4 knots
in cruise and my CHTs dropped 20-25 degrees. My leaned out cruise CHTs at
2500 rpm and 7500 ft&nbs p;were 325 deg F yesterday with the OAT around
freezing. On a 1500 fpm climb out I did not get above 350 on any cylinder.
Before the changes I would sometimes need to push the nose down when I got
to around 380 on #3. The cosmetic outcome was satisfying enough. The added
performance is gravy.
Joel Haynes
N557XW
Bozeman, MT
_____
<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=ao
lcmp00050000000003> !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
Tim Bryan wrote:
Tim, let me answer last question first ;-)
Do you have any pictures of this installed?
No.
Isn't the flywheel back there also turning?
Yes! At least I hope it is!!! :-P
I think I see your point. If the flywheel doesn't leave enough room
between cowl and flywheel for the foam, you can split the foam in half
and just glue the front piece on. Or you may just let the flywheel
custom fit itself in the foam like the spinner does. This may be
preferable if the 'hole in the donut' is small.
And finally:
I am having a hard time visualizing where this pipe foam is being put.
Bear in mind that I've not seen my -10 cowl yet!!! I've done this on
other airplanes.
The cowl should have a round, flat, face that fits between the flywheel
teeth and the spinner. When the cowl is in place, there's a hole where
the crank pokes through ..... between the inlets ...... and this is the
'hole in the donut'. Now, this is where things may get confusing ... in
my mind too. I've never done this to a constant speed prop, so there
may be some difference here, but not much. On the fixed pitch spinner,
the back plate lip bends aft. I'm thinking that on some constant
speeds, the lip points forward. Someone can help me out here!!!
Anyway, the foam has a slit down it lengthwise. Fit it around the 'hole
in the donut' like a huge rubber grommet. Place the spinner back plate
on the prop flange to check for fit. On the cowls I've done this to,
the new 'grommet' fit snugly underneath the lip of the backing plate
..... except where the nutplates were. The first two or three
revolutions relieved that interference! Glue it down with yellow 3m
weatherstrip glue .... monkey snot as somebody previously said!!!
All you need to remember is to slit the foam where the upper and lower
cowl joins!!!
Hope this helps!!!
> I am having a hard time visualizing where this pipe foam is being
> put. Isn't the flywheel back there also turning? Do you have any
> pictures of this installed?
>
> Thanks
>
> Tim
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
> Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 1:06 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
>
>
>
> I'm going to guess that the improvement was due to cutting down the
> air flow forward and then out of the cowl at the spinner gap. The
> venturi effect there is huge! To further seal this area, get some
> pipe insulating foam and fit it inside the cowl opening around the
> crank ..... like a donut with the cut in the foam facing outward.
> Reinstall the spinner, paying no mind to the fact that the foam
> contacts the spinner. A minute of engine run will trim the foam just
> fine and really close off this escape route for cooling air.
> Linn
>
> joelrhaynes(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I've been flying my 7A for about 1.5 years and 150 hours. It
> remains unpainted and the cowl at the time of the first flight was
> structurally complete but the spinner gap was never to my liking since
> it was nice at the top (0.25 inch) but too wide on the sides and
> particularly so on the bottom. My philosophy was to get it in the
> air, enjoy flying, and take my time in completing the fairings and
> final fiberglass finishing before painting (I still like this
> strategy). So over the last few weeks I spent a good 25 hours filling
> all the pin holes, re-working the spinner opening with some layups and
> flox, and getting a nice coat of primer on the cowl to hold me until
> the real paint goes on. The cosmetic outcome was very nice. Then I
> went flying. Holy s**t, it's a different airplane. I picked up 3-4
> knots in cruise and my CHTs dropped 20-25 degrees. My leaned out
> cruise CHTs at 2500 rpm and 7500 ft&nbs p;were 325 deg F yesterday
> with the OAT around freezing. On a 1500 fpm climb out I did not get
> above 350 on any cylinder. Before the changes I would sometimes need
> to push the nose down when I got to around 380 on #3. The cosmetic
> outcome was satisfying enough. The added performance is gravy.
>
> Joel Haynes
> N557XW
> Bozeman, MT
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> <http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp00050000000003>!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>
>http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | nosegear clarification |
I have gotten some emails re the mod (I am on digest only), and since
the replys adress why the mod, and not the orig question, I want to
clarify. The new fork has a shorter front piece which is therefor 1 in
higher from the pavement and I thought maybe one could use the new fork
without cutting off the leg, but I took another look and see the reason
the leg has to be cut off. So disreguard the first mail. I dont intend
to make the mod myself at this time along with several others I know, as
I rarely go into grass, and only if i have looked at it on foot first.
Knock on wood, I have not landed nosewheel first that I can recall since
getting my pvt in 1966, Im counting on maintaining proper flair till Im
too old to whip and ride any more. I have spronged my 6a twice since I
bought it, landing in extreem x-wind, but mains were on first. Charlie
heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rudder trim tab material |
Paul,
Aircraft Spruce sells a nice rudder trim tab made of aluminum. It can be
cut to the length you want and painted. I went to a trophy shop and bought
some two sided tape. Still working great after 300 hours.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, Reserve Grand Champion - Kit S 'n F 2006, Outstanding Aircraft -
Homebuilt S 'n F 2007, Third Place Metal, Copperstate 2007
**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy
Awards. Go to AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim Tab Material? |
> A few years later after changing wheelpants and gear fairings, the tab
> needed to be redone so I bent one out of 0.016 aluminum (formed it with
> closed ends and back) and pop riveted it to the rudder. Its been there for
> several years now. Sam Buchanan
As Sam mentions, things down the road can change which is why I also went
with a bendable tab. Make sure you don't locate it right behind the HS, it
will blank it. Here's my solution...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3hq/Airframe/DSCN2596.jpg
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Barrett" <2thman(at)cablespeed.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Re: Cowl Fasteners |
Sending this a second time - didn't see it come up yesterday. I apologize
to all if it's redundant.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Barrett [mailto:2thman(at)cablespeed.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 7:00 AM
Subject: Re: Cowl Fasteners
I'm continually surprised that builders want to use individual fasteners
along the composite cowls of their airplanes. Even the certified producers
are going to hinge attachments now. Look at the Columbia. Does anyone know
how the Cirrus does it?
This is partly a shameless plug because my company makes and sells Carbinge
graphite piano hinges that are used in so many home builts so be suspicious
of anything I say, but take the time to ask your colleagues who have used
hinges instead of fasteners.
Regards,
John Barrett, CEO
Leading Edge Composites
PO Box 428
Port Hadlock, WA 98339
www.carbinge.com
3:20 PM
9:00 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Barrett" <2thman(at)cablespeed.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
>From Ivan Haecker et al:
In a message dated 02/13/2008 12:47:46 PM Central Standard Time,
panamared5(at)brier.net writes:
Also the hinges all broke in the bottom of the cowl, and
the parts of the cowl where I did use hinges, they are not that user
friendly to the surrounding paint, the cowl, or the ripped up skin
on
my hands and fingers.
>>>
Also consider countersunk 8-32 screws (six each side) for the bottom,
with platenuts mounted on a strip riveted to lower firewall flange. Not
a problem in 450+ hours on my RV-6A.
Mark
*******************
As we have discussed for years on the Lancair Mail List, there are lots of
reasons to avoid screws or camlock type fasteners on composite cowls. Among
the reasons include weight, difficulty of installation, dinging up the
cowling when removing and replacing cowl, appearance, frictional drag and so
on.
So almost all of us on that list agree that hinges are the better way to go.
I would surmise the poster of the above message used aluminum hinges and
bent them tightly around the front turn in the cowl. Perhaps he also had to
place some sort of home made retention system as well to keep the pin from
vibrating forward into the prop while in flight.
We have pretty well perfected the use and installation of graphite hinges
for plastic cowls. The matchup results in easy installation, an attachment
that holds at every point along the cowl instead of at intervals, one that's
very simple and easy to remove and replace. There are no rivet divots in
the paintjob and there won't be any of these working loose as hours pass on
the airframe. We use a product called Carbinge Keepers to avoid a clumsy,
difficult to manage and unsightly retention system for the pins. The
Keepers utilize a recessed allen screw welded to the end of the pin and a
female button that is bonded into the cowl and the pin/screw arrangement
simple is screwed into the button leaving only a depression of less than
1/4" diameter in the forward edge of the cowl on each side. You won't find
any of those who have used this system complaining about dinging up their
fingers or having parts come loose. We have well over 1,000 hours of many
of our installations and we have had no reports of failures or problems
where the installations were done correctly.
Once again this is a shameless plug and I urge all to seek out colleagues
who have used our system. See web site below.
Regards,
John Barrett, CEO
Leading Edge Composites
PO Box 428
Port Hadlock, WA 98339
www.carbinge.com
9:00 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
| Subject: | Flighttime Radio Show |
Just wanted to remind everyone to listen to the Flighttime Radio Show
tomorrow morning at 10:00 AM Eastern time. www.flighttimeradio.com We are
having an aviation education special this week.
This week we will have KR pilot Kip Lounsbury guest hosting with us. Kip is
a lot of fun and a great story teller.
We are giving away a $49.95 valued ASA Flight Timer 2 and an Aviation
Scholarship Directory to callers this week. You must be listening live for
your chance to call in and win.
Our first guests this week are Judy Rice, President of Careers in Aviation
which is a non-profit group helping to advance the future of aviation
careers by fostering scholarships, connecting students with available
assistance, and encouraging the aviation industry, professional
associations, government agancies, and the educational community to work
together effectively supporting aviation and space career development
programs.
Our second guest is Col. Jack Howell, President of Teens in Flight which is
a non-profit group that provides free flight training and maintenance
scholarships to teens that have lost a parent or had a parent wounded and
disabled in the war on terrorrism or selected "at risk" teens.
Brian Kraut
www.flighttimeradio.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sheldon barrett" <sheldonb(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trim Tab Material? |
Yes..seems to work pretty good... Took couple flights to adjust..and
ball in center... It's pop-riveted on the left side of the rudder bottom
with 3 rivets..
Sheldon
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
Very nice look...works well I assume?
----- Original Message ----
From: sheldon barrett <sheldonb(at)frontiernet.net>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 7:48:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
Paul... I did a aluminium tab on the bottom of the rudder... easy to
adjust... with a shape that gives the plane a little longer look (I
think ha).. However, some say not the best place for the tab
efficiency... See attached shot...
Sheldon
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 11:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Trim Tab Material?
Hey all...looking for some bright ideas on a trim tab. I made one
out of wood. A wedge shape. Taped on the rudder and nailed the size
and location...pure luck. Anyway, what have others seen that would look
very clean and work well? How did you fasten it? I was thinking of a
solid piece of machined alluminum, but not sure how to mount it on the
skin.
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Be a better friend, newshound, and
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.m
atronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Dean <billoves2fly(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nose gear mod |
Just remember that assumptions make an ass/of/u/and me (ass/u/me) LOL
----- Original Message ----
From: Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty <jfogarty(at)tds.net>
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 12:03:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: nose gear mod
My understanding, the 1 inch is what will hit the pot hole first, consequently,
after cutting off the existing rod the plane will have one more inch of clearance.
If you hold that nose up you will never have a problem, that is my assumption,
however, I should never assume anything.
Jim
RV9a Builder
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Heathco
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 8:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: nose gear mod
I have been thinking about this thing and wonder why we cant put the new fork on
the existing rod which would end up giving the same clearance as if we cut off
and inch and rethreaded it?? would change the sitting angle just barley. Am
I missing something here? I havent asked Vans about this yet, wanted to see if
anyone else has thought about this. Charlie Heathco
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Release Date: 2/15/2008 9:00 AM
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Barrett" <2thman(at)cablespeed.com> |
| Subject: | re: Cowl Fasteners |
Mark writes: Huh? And just what the heck are "rivet divots"? No idea what
you're talking
about. Neat thing about the Experimental family- use common sense selecting
products that suit your needs, do what you think is best and let the results
speak for themselves...
*********************
I'm referring to the little dimples that either are immediately apparent in
the paint job where rivets were placed or that show up later after vibration
and working cause them to pull the paint layer back and forth a little.
Please understand the comments about breakage, fingers getting damaged etc
with metal hinges didn't come from me - those comments were offered by
another builder on the RV List and I was referring to those.
Agreed that metal hinges can and will work OK and certainly at the front end
they cost less. However, we do hear about the corrosion and breakdown of
aluminum hinges a good bit on the Lancair Mail List so there is reason to
consider that aspect. Sometimes there are black streaks that come out of
aluminum hinges on aircraft. That streak is the result of oxidation turning
to powder, getting mixed with water and running out of the hinge joint onto
the paint surrounding. We have quite a few reports of hinges wearing out on
homebuilts to the extent that builders need to replace or try to insert a
Teflon sleeve over the pin to get more service life out of the hinge. Also
there are credible reports of the attachments working loose over time where
rivets are used to attach aluminum hinges to composite. Perhaps those
builders were not as accomplished as some, but it is fact that two
dissimilar materials like aluminum and composite mechanically joined with a
long joint will work and expand/contract at different rates during thermal
and vibrational cycles. This activity tends to stretch and wear the
attachment points and can and does lead to loss of the integrity of the
attachment.
Regards,
John Barrett, CEO
Leading Edge Composites
PO Box 428
Port Hadlock, WA 98339
www.carbinge.com
7:08 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
This brings up a question I've often wondered about. Would it be simpler and
more effective to use a plenum, rather than relying on the fit of the cowl and
baffles, to ensure good cooling and minimum cooling drag? I'm thinking that,
while the plenum itself is more work up front, it might eliminate a lot of time
spend fiddling around with the cowl and baffles later.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alcohol proof fuel tank sealer? |
My RV-4 fuel tanks are 18 years old and starting to leak (I'm the second
owner and one was seeping when I first got it 12 years ago). Its time to take
them off and reseal them. Has anyone had any luck with any sealer that will
stand up to the alcohol in auto gas? What does that RV-3 team that runs on
methanol use? Thanks.
Jim
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
At what outside air temp are you talking about here? I can see this at
90-100 degrees OAT, but at 20-50 OAT you should not see this. I am
currently flying without my leg fairing and pants and on 90+ OAT days I
see 420 on climb out, but I do not let it get over that, I level off and
pull the throttle back until it comes back to 400. I also see between
380-390 in cruise. 40 degree days I see about 385 climb out and 350
cruise. I'm hoping the have the leg fairing on in about a month.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> Joel,
>
>
>
> To which item do you contribute the CHT temp improvement to? To which
> item do you contribute the speed difference to?
>
> Inquiring minds.
>
> My CHT's are never below 380 in cruise and well over 420 in climb out.
>
> Tim
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *joelrhaynes(at)aol.com
> *Sent:* Friday, February 15, 2008 11:11 AM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: WOW - What a difference
>
>
>
> I've been flying my 7A for about 1.5 years and 150 hours. It
> remains unpainted and the cowl at the time of the first flight was
> structurally complete but the spinner gap was never to my liking since
> it was nice at the top (0.25 inch) but too wide on the sides and
> particularly so on the bottom. My philosophy was to get it in the
> air, enjoy flying, and take my time in completing the fairings and
> final fiberglass finishing before painting (I still like this
> strategy). So over the last few weeks I spent a good 25 hours filling
> all the pin holes, re-working the spinner opening with some layups and
> flox, and getting a nice coat of primer on the cowl to hold me until
> the real paint goes on. The cosmetic outcome was very nice. Then I
> went flying. Holy s**t, it's a different airplane. I picked up 3-4
> knots in cruise and my CHTs dropped 20-25 degrees. My leaned out
> cruise CHTs at 2500 rpm and 7500 ft&nbs p;were 325 deg F yesterday
> with the OAT around freezing. On a 1500 fpm climb out I did not get
> above 350 on any cylinder. Before the changes I would sometimes need
> to push the nose down when I got to around 380 on #3. The cosmetic
> outcome was satisfying enough. The added performance is gravy.
>
> Joel Haynes
> N557XW
> Bozeman, MT
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> <http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp00050000000003>!
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
At what outside air temp are you talking about here? I can see this at
90-100 degrees OAT, but at 20-50 OAT you should not see this. I am
currently flying without my leg fairing and pants and on 90+ OAT days I
see 420 on climb out, but I do not let it get over that, I level off and
pull the throttle back until it comes back to 400. I also see between
380-390 in cruise. 40 degree days I see about 385 climb out and 350
cruise. I'm hoping the have the leg fairing on in about a month.
XP-0360 one mag one Lightspeed Ign.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> Joel,
>
>
>
> To which item do you contribute the CHT temp improvement to? To which
> item do you contribute the speed difference to?
>
> Inquiring minds.
>
> My CHT's are never below 380 in cruise and well over 420 in climb out.
>
> Tim
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *joelrhaynes(at)aol.com
> *Sent:* Friday, February 15, 2008 11:11 AM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: WOW - What a difference
>
>
>
> I've been flying my 7A for about 1.5 years and 150 hours. It
> remains unpainted and the cowl at the time of the first flight was
> structurally complete but the spinner gap was never to my liking since
> it was nice at the top (0.25 inch) but too wide on the sides and
> particularly so on the bottom. My philosophy was to get it in the
> air, enjoy flying, and take my time in completing the fairings and
> final fiberglass finishing before painting (I still like this
> strategy). So over the last few weeks I spent a good 25 hours filling
> all the pin holes, re-working the spinner opening with some layups and
> flox, and getting a nice coat of primer on the cowl to hold me until
> the real paint goes on. The cosmetic outcome was very nice. Then I
> went flying. Holy s**t, it's a different airplane. I picked up 3-4
> knots in cruise and my CHTs dropped 20-25 degrees. My leaned out
> cruise CHTs at 2500 rpm and 7500 ft&nbs p;were 325 deg F yesterday
> with the OAT around freezing. On a 1500 fpm climb out I did not get
> above 350 on any cylinder. Before the changes I would sometimes need
> to push the nose down when I got to around 380 on #3. The cosmetic
> outcome was satisfying enough. The added performance is gravy.
>
> Joel Haynes
> N557XW
> Bozeman, MT
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> <http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp00050000000003>!
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference (Cooling/Plenums) |
Just an opinion on the subject of plenums. If you are looking for the very
last ounce of speed, probably at the sacrifice of engine access, by all
means, install a plenum. For a given intake and outlet size, you should get
a few percentage points better cooling because you should have fewer air
leaks. But it'll be a single digit savings - probably low single digits. A
plenum isn't going to solve serious cooling problems. Those are usually
caused by something unique (or not quite right) with the airplane.
In my case, the oil temperatures were 220f in cruise on warm days for the
first year or so I flew my RV-6. In the end, the high temps boiled down to
two issues: I had the first generation Positech oil cooler, which was a bad
product. Bad enough that Positech eventually offered free replacements.
Also, I hadn't cut a large enough hole in my baffling to feed air to the oil
cooler. A plenum wouldn't have solved either of those issues.
There are boatloads of RV's out there with the stock baffling and cowl and
the vast majority of those airplanes cool well. The stock system is simple
to install (and if you use a plenum, Van's baffle kit will probably form
much of your plenum anyway), inexpensive, and effective. Unless you are one
of those individuals looking for that last 1-2% in speed or efficiency (at
the expense of time, money, and servicability), the stock baffles and
cowling work just fine.
As a side note, it was humid here in N. GA this morning. Humid enough that
I pulled prop contrails for the entire length of my takeoff roll and
probably another 3,000 feet down the runway on climb-out. It was kinda neat
seeing a swirling vortex wrapped around the airplane...
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Finch" <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Alcohol proof fuel tank sealer? |
What about welding the tank? In the Ercoupe world there is a guy that
specializes in welding the tanks to eliminate any problem with sealer.
RF
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JFLEISC(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 12:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Alcohol proof fuel tank sealer?
My RV-4 fuel tanks are 18 years old and starting to leak (I'm the second
owner and one was seeping when I first got it 12 years ago). Its time to
take them off and reseal them. Has anyone had any luck with any sealer that
will stand up to the alcohol in auto gas? What does that RV-3 team that runs
on methanol use? Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alcohol proof fuel tank sealer? |
In a message dated 2/17/2008 12:36:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us writes:
My RV-4 fuel tanks are 18 years old and starting to leak (I'm the second
owner and one was seeping when I first got it 12 years ago). Its time to take
them off and reseal them. Has anyone had any luck with any sealer that will
stand up to the alcohol in auto gas? What does that RV-3 team that runs on
methanol use? Thanks.
I didn't even know that could be done particularly with all the internal
ribs. How would that effect structural strength? It is, after all, part of the
wing system.
Jim
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Barrett" <2thman(at)cablespeed.com> |
| Subject: | re: Cowl Fasteners |
Mark writes:
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=23983_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=23983)
Not to say there isn't a superior method, and don't recall who the original
advocate was, but it sho 'nuff works.
I surmise the reason Lancairs have this "problem" is airflow/skin friction
heating resulting in unven expansion of rivets and composite materials
causing
the separation around the rivet heads?
8-)
**********************
Mark
That's an interesting technique for hiding rivet dimples (or divots) I just
kind of like the sound of "rivet divots". I had not seen that before. Some
builders add a layer of very fine glass over the line of rivets and I think
they report that does the trick. With the Lancairs, there are quite a few
areas where countersunk screws reside on the outside skin leaving a similar
conundrum. I think most builders add the thin layer of glass over those
prior to body work to keep them from dimpling. It probably would help in the
situation we're discussing.
I don't think it's so much friction in the air stream causing the thermal
cycling but that might have an effect, and it does remind me of an incident
in the 1960's when I was flying one of the Navy's training jets - an F9
Cougar. I was out playing and I put the aircraft in a vertical dive for the
purpose of catching and passing a buddy who didn't know I was several
thousand feet higher and behind him. The victory roll I did right off his
nose surprised him and put a grin on both our faces, but I had the airspeed
to VNE - about 400 knots as I recall. The F9 had countersunk phillips head
screws on the wing surfaces and during my post flight inspection I
discovered that the paint in the screw heads was peeling out of the grooves.
I remember it well because I worried for days that the plane captain would
do a thorough post flight inspection and report it as a discrepancy.
Fortunately for me, I didn't get caught. I have no idea whether that
peeling was caused by pure friction or if heat was a factor in softening the
paint so that the thermal and mechanical effects combined to create the
result. After consideration, I'd surmise the combined effect is the more
reasonable conclusion.
I think the major cause of thermal cycling in our airplanes is rather the
difference in OAT from sea level to 25,000 feet. And the thermal cycles
just from sea level to 10,000 or 12,000 feet can be significant. I think
this plus the vibration is what causes these joints between dissimilar
materials to work back and forth and often bring about early failure after a
few hundred hours of service.
Regards,
John Barrett, CEO
Leading Edge Composites
PO Box 428
Port Hadlock, WA 98339
www.carbinge.com
2:16 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | WOW - What a difference |
Hi Bobby,
I have posted about this many times. My oil temps have always been way too
low around 165 with a door mostly closed behind the oil cooler mounted on
the back of the baffles like the drawings. My CHT's have always been very
high. This last summer I was pushing 478 after climb out and I reduce
throttle and RPM as soon as I reach about 500 feet AGL. In cruise I was
getting more like 430 to 450. I installed baffles and managed to get the
climb out down to 458 and the cruise to 420. Obviously I see lower numbers
in cooler temps like I posted below, but it still isn't very good. I have
yet to find anything that would make mine so much different than other RV's.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
At what outside air temp are you talking about here? I can see this at
90-100 degrees OAT, but at 20-50 OAT you should not see this. I am currently
flying without my leg fairing and pants and on 90+ OAT days I see 420 on
climb out, but I do not let it get over that, I level off and pull the
throttle back until it comes back to 400. I also see between 380-390 in
cruise. 40 degree days I see about 385 climb out and 350 cruise. I'm hoping
the have the leg fairing on in about a month.
XP-0360 one mag one Lightspeed Ign.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Tim Bryan wrote:
Joel,
To which item do you contribute the CHT temp improvement to? To which item
do you contribute the speed difference to?
Inquiring minds.
My CHT's are never below 380 in cruise and well over 420 in climb out.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of joelrhaynes(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 11:11 AM
Subject: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
I've been flying my 7A for about 1.5 years and 150 hours. It remains
unpainted and the cowl at the time of the first flight was structurally
complete but the spinner gap was never to my liking since it was nice at the
top (0.25 inch) but too wide on the sides and particularly so on the bottom.
My philosophy was to get it in the air, enjoy flying, and take my time in
completing the fairings and final fiberglass finishing before painting (I
still like this strategy). So over the last few weeks I spent a good 25
hours filling all the pin holes, re-working the spinner opening with some
layups and flox, and getting a nice coat of primer on the cowl to hold me
until the real paint goes on. The cosmetic outcome was very nice. Then I
went flying. Holy s**t, it's a different airplane. I picked up 3-4 knots
in cruise and my CHTs dropped 20-25 degrees. My leaned out cruise CHTs at
2500 rpm and 7500 ft&nbs p;were 325 deg F yesterday with the OAT around
freezing. On a 1500 fpm climb out I did not get above 350 on any cylinder.
Before the changes I would sometimes need to push the nose down when I got
to around 380 on #3. The cosmetic outcome was satisfying enough. The added
performance is gravy.
Joel Haynes
N557XW
Bozeman, MT
_____
<http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=ao
lcmp00050000000003> !
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ethanol: Was Alcohol proof fuel tank sealer? |
| From: | jerry2dt(at)aol.com |
I think we all need to be aware that ethanol in our fuel poses risks other than
sealer for tanks. For one thing it absorbs water so if you store with less than
full tanks, you will gain some H2O in them and never now it with a sump test.
Far as that goes, if it rains on your bird you will have no way to know if
water in tanks because the ethanol will hide it.? Another thing is it likes to
eat rubber and some synthetics. My engine supplier, Superior, specifically rules
out any ethanol use. I was happy using 92 oct mogas here in OR which I tested
ethanol free, but now our legislature has stupidly mandated 10% ethanol year
round in the the entire state. So it's 100LL for me, I just don't feel like
messing with ethanol...
My dime,
Jerry
From: JFLEISC(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Alcohol proof fuel tank sealer?
My RV-4 fuel tanks are 18 years old and starting to leak (I'm the second
owner and one was seeping when I first got it 12 years ago). Its time to take
them off and reseal them. Has anyone had any luck with any sealer that will
stand up to the alcohol in auto gas? What does that RV-3 team that runs on
methanol use? Thanks.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | WOW - What a difference |
Hi Tim,
What have you done to prove the accuracy of your temp gauges? I would do
some serious laboratory type testing of my entire CHT gauge system if I had
your results. Take an oven thermometer and your CHT probe, rig up cooking
oil in a small deep pan. Set up a steady support to hold the pan next to the
engine where the probe will reach. The heat source does not need to be close
to the engine, just move the pan over when it is up to 350 F. Drop the probe
in and check your instrument panel, give it time to stabilize. While you are
waiting you can recheck the oven thermometer to monitor its reading. Cooking
oil can test up to 400 F for sure. I would also test the oven thermometer in
boiling water for 212 F before I went to the plane.
I am looking forward to the day you tell us this problem is solved! Good
luck!
Dale
RV6a 990 hrs
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:41 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
Hi Bobby,
I have posted about this many times. My oil temps have always been way too
low around 165 with a door mostly closed behind the oil cooler mounted on
the back of the baffles like the drawings. My CHT's have always been very
high. This last summer I was pushing 478 after climb out and I reduce
throttle and RPM as soon as I reach about 500 feet AGL. In cruise I was
getting more like 430 to 450. I installed baffles and managed to get the
climb out down to 458 and the cruise to 420. Obviously I see lower numbers
in cooler temps like I posted below, but it still isn't very good. I have
yet to find anything that would make mine so much different than other RV's.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
Hi Dale,
Keep in mind that the boiling temp of water is altitude dependent...
Higher field altitude, lower boiling point. Here in Albuquerque @
5000ft, we would never see 212F before water starts boiling away!
FWIW,
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Walter
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:18 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
Hi Tim,
What have you done to prove the accuracy of your temp gauges? I would
do some serious laboratory type testing of my entire CHT gauge system if
I had your results. Take an oven thermometer and your CHT probe, rig up
cooking oil in a small deep pan. Set up a steady support to hold the pan
next to the engine where the probe will reach. The heat source does not
need to be close to the engine, just move the pan over when it is up to
350 F. Drop the probe in and check your instrument panel, give it time
to stabilize. While you are waiting you can recheck the oven thermometer
to monitor its reading. Cooking oil can test up to 400 F for sure. I
would also test the oven thermometer in boiling water for 212 F before I
went to the plane.
I am looking forward to the day you tell us this problem is solved!
Good luck!
Dale
RV6a 990 hrs
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:41 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
Hi Bobby,
I have posted about this many times. My oil temps have always been
way too low around 165 with a door mostly closed behind the oil cooler
mounted on the back of the baffles like the drawings. My CHT's have
always been very high. This last summer I was pushing 478 after climb
out and I reduce throttle and RPM as soon as I reach about 500 feet AGL.
In cruise I was getting more like 430 to 450. I installed baffles and
managed to get the climb out down to 458 and the cruise to 420.
Obviously I see lower numbers in cooler temps like I posted below, but
it still isn't very good. I have yet to find anything that would make
mine so much different than other RV's.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ethanol: Was Alcohol proof fuel tank sealer? |
In a message dated 2/17/2008 3:14:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jerry2dt(at)aol.com writes:
I think we all need to be aware that ethanol in our fuel poses risks other
than sealer for tanks. For one thing it absorbs water so if you store with
less than full tanks, you will gain some H2O in them and never now it with a
sump test. Far as that goes, if it rains on your bird you will have no way to
know if water in tanks because the ethanol will hide it. Another thing is it
likes to eat rubber and some synthetics. My engine supplier, Superior,
specifically rules out any ethanol use. I was happy using 92 oct mogas here in
OR
which I tested ethanol free, but now our legislature has stupidly mandated 10%
ethanol year round in the the entire state. So it's 100LL for me, I just
don't feel like messing with ethanol...
My dime,
Jerry
I'm afraid I don't understand the water thing. My wife's plane got a load of
water in one of the tanks when I didn't get the cap on right. When we came to
fly it next weekend I had to drain several cup fulls of water out of the
sump 'till it ran clear just like any other preflight. The water was obvious to
me, no mystery. My RV-4 and particularly hers (with a Cont 0-300D which was
designed to run on 80 octane) seem to run much better on no-lead. I haven't
had any exhaust valve issues since switching to no lead about half dozen years
ago. Had the engine apart recently on my 0-360 (due to a prop strike) and it
was particularly clean inside. I too had worries about the carburetor but
after examining every part could find no anomalies. My engine builder (that
would be me) hasn't ruled out any "experimenting".
The 'O' rings on the fuel tank caps did swell however. For twice the price
of a set of 2 Van's replacement rings I bought a bag of 100 (smallest order I
could get) Buna-n rings figuring I could replace them every few months for the
rest of my life. Problem is, they won't swell. Still on the original 2 after
4 years. I have been careful to keep an eye on things but haven't had any
issues other than the tanks. That's why I wanted to get some input from anyone
who has also withstood the test of time.
Jim
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference (Cooling/Plenums) |
Pictures Please!
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> As a side note, it was humid here in N. GA this morning. Humid enough
> that I pulled prop contrails for the entire length of my takeoff roll
> and probably another 3,000 feet down the runway on climb-out. It was
> kinda neat seeing a swirling vortex wrapped around the airplane...
>
> KB
>
john
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | LOE - Land of Enchantment Fly-In (5T6) - Dona Ana County, Santa |
Teresa, NM
Has a date been set for LOE 2008?
Richard Reynolds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "n801bh(at)netzero.com" <n801bh(at)netzero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
Konrad is correct, Here in Jackson Hole Wy, @ 6500' msl water boils at a
bout 186 f.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
-- "Konrad L. Werner" wrote:
Hi Dale,Keep in mind that the boiling temp of water is altitude
dependent... Higher field altitude, lower boiling point. Here in Albuque
rque @ 5000ft, we would never see 212F before water starts boiling away!
FWIW,Konrad----- Original Message ----- From: Dale Walter To: rv-list@m
atronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:18 PMSubject: RE: RV-List
: WOW - What a difference
Hi Tim,
What have you done to prove the accuracy of your temp gauges? I would do
some serious laboratory type testing of my entire CHT gauge system if I
had your results. Take an oven thermometer and your CHT probe, rig up c
ooking oil in a small deep pan. Set up a steady support to hold the pan
next to the engine where the probe will reach. The heat source does not
need to be close to the engine, just move the pan over when it is up to
350 F. Drop the probe in and check your instrument panel, give it time t
o stabilize. While you are waiting you can recheck the oven thermometer
to monitor its reading. Cooking oil can test up to 400 F for sure. I wou
ld also test the oven thermometer in boiling water for 212 F before I we
nt to the plane.
I am looking forward to the day you tell us this problem is solved! Good
luck!
Dale
RV6a 990 hrs
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:41 PM
ice:smarttags" />rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
Hi Bobby,
I have posted about this many times. My oil temps have always been way
too low around 165 with a door mostly closed behind the oil cooler mount
ed on the back of the baffles like the drawings. My CHT=C2=92s have alw
ays been very high. This last summer I was pushing 478 after climb out
and I reduce throttle and RPM as soon as I reach about 500 feet AGL. In
cruise I was getting more like 430 to 450. I installed baffles and man
aged to get the climb out down to 458 and the cruise to 420. Obviously
I see lower numbers in cooler temps like I posted below, but it still is
n=C2=92t very good. I have yet to find anything that would make mine so
much different than other RV=C2=92s.
Tim
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?RV-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru
ms.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://ww
========================
-========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
======
_____________________________________________________________
Free information on hiring a Business Consulting Service. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2221/fc/Ioyw6i4twAsiQ6vVGa2dibGxW
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | LOE - Land of Enchantment Fly-In (5T6) - Dona Ana County, |
Santa Teresa, NM
It is not on the calendar yet.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/calendar.php?month=10&year 08&c
=1&do=displaymonth
Keep your eye on http://www.vansairforce.com/community/index.php for it to
be announced.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,080 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> From: rvreynolds(at)macs.net
> Subject: RV-List: LOE - Land of Enchantment Fly-In (5T6) - Dona Ana Count
y, Santa Teresa, NM
> Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 17:53:42 -0500
>
>
> Has a date been set for LOE 2008?
>
> Richard Reynolds
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!
http://biggestloser.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | WOW - What a difference |
Just for a data point, my CHT is in the VM1000 and I don't have great faith
in this system. I will perform this test tomorrow and report back.
Tim
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Walter
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 2:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
Hi Tim,
What have you done to prove the accuracy of your temp gauges? I would do
some serious laboratory type testing of my entire CHT gauge system if I had
your results. Take an oven thermometer and your CHT probe, rig up cooking
oil in a small deep pan. Set up a steady support to hold the pan next to the
engine where the probe will reach. The heat source does not need to be close
to the engine, just move the pan over when it is up to 350 F. Drop the probe
in and check your instrument panel, give it time to stabilize. While you are
waiting you can recheck the oven thermometer to monitor its reading. Cooking
oil can test up to 400 F for sure. I would also test the oven thermometer in
boiling water for 212 F before I went to the plane.
I am looking forward to the day you tell us this problem is solved! Good
luck!
Dale
RV6a 990 hrs
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:41 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
Hi Bobby,
I have posted about this many times. My oil temps have always been way too
low around 165 with a door mostly closed behind the oil cooler mounted on
the back of the baffles like the drawings. My CHT's have always been very
high. This last summer I was pushing 478 after climb out and I reduce
throttle and RPM as soon as I reach about 500 feet AGL. In cruise I was
getting more like 430 to 450. I installed baffles and managed to get the
climb out down to 458 and the cruise to 420. Obviously I see lower numbers
in cooler temps like I posted below, but it still isn't very good. I have
yet to find anything that would make mine so much different than other RV's.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)erfwireless.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LOE - Land of Enchantment Fly-In (5T6) - Dona Ana County, |
Santa Teresa, NM
LOE 2008 will most likely be the first weekend in October.
Russ Daves
N710RV - Flying RV-10
N65RV - Sold RV-6A
N_____?? - RV-7 waiting on QB Fuselage
Check out the following posts from VAFWWW:
According to the latest posting to www.swrfi.com , the "powers that be"
have moved the SWRFI to the second weekend of October, starting in 2008.
__________________
Mike Reddick
VAF#153
RV6A N167CW 600+ HRS
Ft Worth, TX (T67)
Stan Shannon (SWRFI) emailed me about the new dates a couple of weeks
back asking for input. I gave him Red Marron and Larry Vetterman's
contact info (the two guys that have historically chosen the LOE date)
and asked him to contact them.
Although I'm not certain he did call, I would assume that Red and Larry
would not chose to have LOE on the same weekend as SWRFI. I'm certain
Stan knows that if he has SWRFI and LOE competing it will really eat
into the RV attendance at his event.
The beauty of LOE is its mobility, so I'm pretty sure there will not be
a conflict.
Best,
Doug
__________________
Doug Reeves
Owner: Delta Romeo, LLC.
I talked with Larry V and Red both and was told LOE was the first
weekend
in Oct.--therefore we chose the second weekend even though we wanted the
first weekend. We do not want to conflict with this great event.
Stan Shannon
CEO-EAA TEXAS
RV-6, RV-9, Rv-9a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Barrett" <2thman(at)cablespeed.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Cowl hinges for my RV-4 |
Hello Dean,
Thanks for your inquiry about Carbinge products. I have attached a
couple
of photos that I hope will make some of the concepts a little more
clear.
Please see answers to your questions and some commentary below:
From: Dean Pichon [mailto:deanpichon(at)msn.com]
I am in the middle of converting the cowl attachment on my RV-4 from
(aluminum) panio hinges to Skybolt fasteners and am considering making a
mid-stream change to your hinges. I would like to clarify a couple of
issues
with you.
I installed rolled hinges in my -4 furing initial construction. I have
broken a number of eyelets both the curved hinge section along the upper
firewall and the horizontal section joining the upper and lower cowl
halves.
I have installed Skybolt fasteners along the firewall. I have the
following
questions:
1. To improve asthetics and reduce cowl wear, I install my hinge
pins
from inside the cockpit of the -4. The pins are inserted through holes
in
the fuselage skin behind the cowl cheeks. The pins go through holes in
the
flanges of the cheek pieces and enter the hinge strips from the aft
section
of the cowling. For this most part, this has worked well, except there
seems
to be some relative motion between the cheeks and the cowl. The eyelets
that
have broken are on the most aft section of hinge and the holes in the
cheek
flanges have become elongated. If I use hinges again, I will consider
attaching a bushing of some sort to the cheek flange to better support
the
pin. Are you are of any -4's that use your hinges and insert the pins
from
the cockpit? Can you supply longer hinge pins (about 6') to support this
installation?
Answer:
I don=92t know of RV-4=92s with this config, but there was a builder
assist shop
in San Jose that just closed last month. They were doing this with
Lancair
Legacy=92s. I supplied the Carbinge but not supply the pins because
there was
not a large enough demand to warrant stocking the material and frankly I
couldn=92t see the purpose. Pins were 6 foot long for that a/c too.
I understand your desire to make the result esthetic and that is one of
our
prime goals with Carbinge. That is where the Carbinge Keepers come in.
With this product you have a drop dead simple method of removal and
replacement and you have only one small hole at the point of each pin
placement. The hole is about 3/16=94 in diameter and the head of the
allen
screw can pretty much sit flush with this hole. (see photo of Keeper
installed in a wing tip)
2. Can you recommend alternate techniques for attaching the cowl
sections to the cheek pieces? In typical RV installations, does the
hinge
pin terminate in the hinge or does in continue into a hole in the
aircraft?
Answer:
Unfortunately I don=92t know what =93cheek pieces=94 are. If you refer
to the
bend in the cowl as it approaches the propeller, Carbinge is ideal for
this.
You simply bond the hinge to the cowl stopping its forward extent
wherever
you wish without making the radius too small. You can play with this at
installation and get a feel by hand fitting the hinge to the cowl part.
3. Your website lists only 4' sections. Do you offer hinges in 3' or
6'
lengths?
Answer:
We do not. We used to sell smaller pieces, but found this just drives
up
the cost for everyone so we just sell the 4=92 lengths. Should the
market
present the demand for longer pieces we could meet that need. Currently
for
applications using a longer hinge, we recommend using a four foot piece
and
aligning a smaller one to get the length needed. As long as you insert
a
pin to align the two pieces at installation this works fine.
4. Are the hinges in-stock?
Answer:
Yes.
Comment:
I do not think extruded aluminum hinges are a good or adequate solution
for
any joining of composite materials in airplanes for all the reasons I
have
stated on the RV-List. However, they are far superior to any kind of
rolled
hinge that I know of.
Hope this helps.
John Barrett
2/18/2008
5:50 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | WOW - What a difference |
I also have had high CHT temps. Even with cooler outside air, my #3
CHT will exceed 450 in a long fast cruise climb. Unlike you, I have
high oil temps which I associate with the high CHT. I haven't checked
the CHT probes for temp accuracy, but I did check the oil temp probe
and it was right on. My oil temp usually settles around 195 in
cruise, but will approach the red line in a long climb - again with
cool outside temps. It does cool down in cruise as do the CHTs. After
about 15 - 20 minutes at cruise, all my CHTs are within about 25
degrees of each other with a low of 375 and a high of 400 - all a bit
on the high side.
I only have about 20 hours on a rebuilt, zero time IO-320, so I am
hoping a few more hours of break in will solve all the temp problems.
I am planning on increasing the SCAT tube to my oil cooler plenum
from a 3 inch to a 4 inch.
I found this thread interesting as my baffle is very tight but I do
have about a 3/8th to 5/16 gap between my cowl and the spinner.
Something to work on in the future.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-------------------------------------------
> From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
>
> Hi Bobby,
>
>
> I have posted about this many times. My oil temps have always been
> way too
> low around 165 with a door mostly closed behind the oil cooler
> mounted on
> the back of the baffles like the drawings. My CHT's have always
> been very
> high. This last summer I was pushing 478 after climb out and I reduce
> throttle and RPM as soon as I reach about 500 feet AGL. In cruise
> I was
> getting more like 430 to 450. I installed baffles and managed to
> get the
> climb out down to 458 and the cruise to 420. Obviously I see lower
> numbers
> in cooler temps like I posted below, but it still isn't very good.
> I have
> yet to find anything that would make mine so much different than
> other RV's.
>
>
> Tim
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Control Vision Exp2Buss Service |
Hello:
Hope some one can help,,, only those with the Exp2Buss, I haves tried to contact
some one at
Control Vission sent E mails, nothing... terrible service...
I recently found, that after flying a few minutes, I get a complete electrical
failure... ;no good..
As I said I have the exp2 buss unit from "Control Vision", I had sent the unit
before to be checked, which
cost me money. they return it saying is was OK>..
Once I reset the master switch, everything goes to normal...
Everything has been installed as per Manual,.....
Any one has any idea, what to check or why? how is your Installation works for
you....
Thanks
bert
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
>I also have had high CHT temps. Even with cooler outside air, my #3
>CHT will exceed 450 in a long fast cruise climb. Unlike you, I have
>high oil temps which I associate with the high CHT. I haven't checked
>the CHT probes for temp accuracy, but I did check the oil temp probe
>and it was right on. My oil temp usually settles around 195 in
>cruise, but will approach the red line in a long climb - again with
>cool outside temps. It does cool down in cruise as do the CHTs. After
>about 15 - 20 minutes at cruise, all my CHTs are within about 25
>degrees of each other with a low of 375 and a high of 400 - all a bit
>on the high side
>D
I don't know how to say this very well, but here goes. Tight baffles
may cause cooling problems.
I had this problem when trying to balance the CHTs, as # 3 and #4
cylinders were hotter that #1 and #2. The solution from someone on
the list was to put a washer spacer between the back cylinders and
the baffle. This would allow more cooling air to pass around those
cylinders. This made a big difference for me.
BTW, I have trouble getting oil temps to reach 180 degrees, and I can
usually get it there after a long climb, usually to 8-10K feet. I
have a stock cowl and stock baffles.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service |
To me, I never understood the benefit of a solid state unit like that. My opinion
is that if an electrical system works great with good old fashioned breakers
and buss bars, go with it. I would never trust an entire electrical system
to one unit. I say if you have the means to put in a buss bar and breakers or
even better, switch/breaker combos, I so go for it and ditch the expbus.
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 10:49:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service
Hello:
Hope some one can help,,, only those with the Exp2Buss, I haves tried to contact
some one at
Control Vission sent E mails, nothing... terrible service...
I recently found, that after flying a few minutes, I get a complete electrical
failure... ;no good..
As I said I have the exp2 buss unit from "Control Vision", I had sent the unit
before to be checked, which
cost me money. they return it saying is was OK>..
Once I reset the master switch, everything goes to normal...
Everything has been installed as per Manual,.....
Any one has any idea, what to check or why? how is your Installation works for
you....
Thanks
bert
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean Pichon <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Control Vision Exp2Buss Service |
I can't speak to Control Vision customer service, but I have been very sati
sfied with the Exp2Bus. I have 400hrs on mine with no problems to date. D
oes complete electrical failure meet no power to the Exp or no power from t
he Exp. The former suggests a problem other than the Exp, while the latter
suggest either the primary relay is bad, or every resettable fuse is tripp
ing which seems rather unlikely.
Good luck,
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 09:49:46 -0800From: robertrv607(at)yahoo.comSubject: RV
-List: Control Vision Exp2Buss ServiceTo: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Hello:
Hope some one can help,,, only those with the Exp2Buss, I haves tried to c
ontact some one at
Control Vission sent E mails, nothing... terrible service...
I recently found, that after flying a few minutes, I get a complete elect
rical failure... ;no good..
As I said I have the exp2 buss unit from "Control Vision", I had sent t
he unit before to be checked, which
cost me money. they return it saying is was OK>..
Once I reset the master switch, everything goes to normal...
Everything has been installed as per Manual,.....
Any one has any idea, what to check or why? how is your Installation works
for you....
Thanks
bert
Be a better friend, newshound, and
_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_0120
08
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service |
Bert,
It sounds like the master relay on your EXP buss may be opening after a
few minutes. This could be because of a poor connection in the
energizing wiring circuit to the circuit board mounted relay since
Control Vision said the unit checked out OK. Suggest you check out all
the crimp connectors in the circuit and the master switch.
I have been flying for three years with the EXP bus in my 6A with no
problems but I have an external master relay and did not use the EXP
circuit board mounted relay.
Paul,
I agree with you...Knowing what I know now about designing and
installing 'a good old fashioned buss bar and breakers' I would not use
the EXP but it has served me well so far. Doing it again I would
probably go with auto type blade fuses.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service
To me, I never understood the benefit of a solid state unit like that.
My opinion is that if an electrical system works great with good old
fashioned breakers and buss bars, go with it. I would never trust an
entire electrical system to one unit. I say if you have the means to
put in a buss bar and breakers or even better, switch/breaker combos, I
so go for it and ditch the expbus.
Paul Besing
----- Original Message ----
From: bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 10:49:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service
Hello:
Hope some one can help,,, only those with the Exp2Buss, I haves tried
to contact some one at
Control Vission sent E mails, nothing... terrible service...
I recently found, that after flying a few minutes, I get a complete
electrical failure... ;no good..
As I said I have the exp2 buss unit from "Control Vision", I had
sent the unit before to be checked, which
cost me money. they return it saying is was OK>..
Once I reset the master switch, everything goes to normal...
Everything has been installed as per Manual,.....
Any one has any idea, what to check or why? how is your Installation
works for you....
Thanks
bert
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Be a better friend, newshound, and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Control Vision Customer Service |
I am sorry to hear about troubles with the electrical unit, but thought
another view of CV's customer service might be appropriate.
I have been using Anywhere Map for some time. When I got the XM weather
unit from them I had lots of problems getting it goinig. A VP called me
personally and worked with me over the telephone to get it going. After
a while another problem developed and I returned the unit and they
repaired it, returned it free and called me to follow up to make certain
it was working.
I have also used their direct inter-communication service where you type
in a problem or questions and someone gets on line and answers you back
immediately, and you exchange info and its almost like working on the
telephone, except that you use the internet to go back and forth with
solving the problem.
I really can't say I have ever had anything but good service from them.
And, no, I don't own any of their stock !
FWIW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service |
Bert,
I agree with Dale. I have an exp buss and although it has some nice
features, I would not use it again despite the fact that mine has worked
well for 260hrs. Like Dale I also have an external master because my
current demands sometimes exceed the 40 amp limit of the exp buss. I have
the Exp buss master wired in parallel to provide some redundancy for a
failed master solenoid.
One thing that I have noticed is that the rated amperages of the fuses are
not good for their rated values at continuous duty. My 100W landing lights
would trip the 10A "landing light" circuit after about 5 min of continuous
use. So I had to install a separate buss, separate fuses and switches for
all my high current items.
So, back to your problem. I would be very suspicious that you are exceeding
40 amps and tripping the master circuit somehow. Don't forget that battery
recharging ALONE can exceed 40 amps if your battery is low (I see as much as
85 amps for a while if I have let my battery get really low - though normal
daytime draw is around 20 amps(electric ignition, coils, pumps, panel etc)).
Also, Like Dale mentioned - really double check the crimps and connections
on the Exp buss ground and master switch ground. If you have the switches
mounted to the board like I do, then you have noticed how tough it is to
tighten and loosen those screws on the side of the switches to attach the
outgoing wires. Those screws often will work loose if there is any sway in
that wire. Loose screws there will cause trips of the circuits.
Finally, I have ongoing problems with aluminum shavings getting onto or
under the board and causing shorts. As much as I try to build a sticky-tape
fortress anytime I am cutting or drilling on or around the panel, there is
alway a shaving that gets lodged under the board the wreaks havoc until I
can find and dislodge it.
Good Luck,
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
On Feb 18, 2008 1:31 PM, Dale Ensing wrote:
> Bert,
> It sounds like the master relay on your EXP buss may be opening after a
> few minutes. This could be because of a poor connection in the energizing
> wiring circuit to the circuit board mounted relay since Control Vision
> said the unit checked out OK. Suggest you check out all the crimp connectors
> in the circuit and the master switch.
> ec
> I have been flying for three years with the EXP bus in my 6A with no
> problems but I have an external master relay and did not use the EXP circuit
> board mounted relay.
>
> Paul,
> I agree with you...Knowing what I know now about designing and installing
> 'a good old fashioned buss bar and breakers' I would not use the EXP but it
> has served me well so far. Doing it again I would probably go with auto type
> blade fuses.
> Dale Ensing
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Paul Besing
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Monday, February 18, 2008 2:58 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service
>
> To me, I never understood the benefit of a solid state unit like that.
> My opinion is that if an electrical system works great with good old
> fashioned breakers and buss bars, go with it. I would never trust an entire
> electrical system to one unit. I say if you have the means to put in a buss
> bar and breakers or even better, switch/breaker combos, I so go for it and
> ditch the expbus.
>
> Paul Besing
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 10:49:46 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Control Vision Exp2Buss Service
>
> Hello:
>
> Hope some one can help,,, only those with the Exp2Buss, I haves tried to
> contact some one at
> Control Vission sent E mails, nothing... terrible service...
>
> I recently found, that after flying a few minutes, I get a complete
> electrical failure... ;no good..
>
> As I said I have the exp2 buss unit from "Control Vision", I had sent
> the unit before to be checked, which
> cost me money. they return it saying is was OK>..
>
> Once I reset the master switch, everything goes to normal...
>
> Everything has been installed as per Manual,.....
>
> Any one has any idea, what to check or why? how is your Installation works
> for you....
>
> Thanks
>
> bert
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Brame" <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
>
> I also have had high CHT temps. Even with cooler outside air, my #3 CHT
> will exceed 450 in a long fast cruise climb. Unlike you, I have high oil
> temps which I associate with the high CHT. I haven't checked the CHT
> probes for temp accuracy, but I did check the oil temp probe and it was
> right on. My oil temp usually settles around 195 in cruise, but will
> approach the red line in a long climb - again with cool outside temps. It
> does cool down in cruise as do the CHTs. After about 15 - 20 minutes at
> cruise, all my CHTs are within about 25 degrees of each other with a low
> of 375 and a high of 400 - all a bit on the high side.
>
> I only have about 20 hours on a rebuilt, zero time IO-320, so I am hoping
> a few more hours of break in will solve all the temp problems. I am
> planning on increasing the SCAT tube to my oil cooler plenum from a 3
> inch to a 4 inch.
>
> I found this thread interesting as my baffle is very tight but I do have
> about a 3/8th to 5/16 gap between my cowl and the spinner. Something to
> work on in the future.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
I had the same problem with high CHT's on climb-out on #3. Usually I saw
425 degrees, and on a hot/heavy day I'd see almost 450 on initial climb out.
A 1" or so cylinder blocker in front of #1 tamed the problem and is a fast
fix which has minimal impact on the temperatures on #1.
You can probably find more details in the archives (I made this mod several
years ago).
As far as CHT's going down with break-in, I wouldn't bet on it. 99% of the
heat in a cylinder is from the combustion process and that isn't going to
change.
Good luck!
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
Hi Kyle,
I don't understand how a 1" air blocker in front of the # 1 would
increase your cooling on the rearward # 3. I can see how the blocker
would make both cylinders become more even in temps, but more by running
# 1 a bit hotter instead of # 3 cooler... Could you explain this to me
please.
Thanks,
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Brame" <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>
To: "RV-List RV-List"
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
>
> I also have had high CHT temps. Even with cooler outside air, my #3
CHT
> will exceed 450 in a long fast cruise climb. Unlike you, I have
high oil
> temps which I associate with the high CHT. I haven't checked the
CHT
> probes for temp accuracy, but I did check the oil temp probe and it
was
> right on. My oil temp usually settles around 195 in cruise, but
will
> approach the red line in a long climb - again with cool outside
temps. It
> does cool down in cruise as do the CHTs. After about 15 - 20
minutes at
> cruise, all my CHTs are within about 25 degrees of each other with
a low
> of 375 and a high of 400 - all a bit on the high side.
>
> I only have about 20 hours on a rebuilt, zero time IO-320, so I am
hoping
> a few more hours of break in will solve all the temp problems. I am
> planning on increasing the SCAT tube to my oil cooler plenum from a
3
> inch to a 4 inch.
>
> I found this thread interesting as my baffle is very tight but I do
have
> about a 3/8th to 5/16 gap between my cowl and the spinner.
Something to
> work on in the future.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
I had the same problem with high CHT's on climb-out on #3. Usually I
saw
425 degrees, and on a hot/heavy day I'd see almost 450 on initial
climb out.
A 1" or so cylinder blocker in front of #1 tamed the problem and is a
fast
fix which has minimal impact on the temperatures on #1.
You can probably find more details in the archives (I made this mod
several
years ago).
As far as CHT's going down with break-in, I wouldn't bet on it. 99%
of the
heat in a cylinder is from the combustion process and that isn't going
to
change.
Good luck!
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 QB wings for sale |
| From: | "Jud" <c210rg(at)yahoo.com> |
It is with deep regret that I must sell my RV-10 factory QB wings. The wing kit
has only been inventoried with no work done. They are in great shape. I do not
now, have the time or money to continue.
The Van's shipping box was beginning to fall apart so they now are on a movable
dolly, based on ones I saw on the Internet. This means they will need to be picked
up or shipped by someone like Tony Partain. I live about 45 miles north
of Los Angeles. The wings are in excellent shape with only a little dust, no dings
or dents all rivets look good. Also, I only have just the wings. I am asking
$11,000 US dollars.
Please contact me through my Yahoo email account, C210rg(at)yahoo.com
I work very long hours, but I will get back to you soon.
Thanks,
Jud
c210rg(at)yahoo.com
--------
Jud Parker
c210rg(at)yahoo.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164905#164905
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
Konrad,
How/why does it work? Good question, and I didn't really expect much in
the way of results when I tried it, but figured it was about $0.25 worth
of material and 10 minutes of work to find out. My belief at the time
was that everything inside the pressurized area inside the cowl
expeiences the same pressure which causes similar cooling flow around
each cylinder. I didn't see how reducing the airflow around one
cylinder would translate to a significant improvement in temperatures on
one other cylinder (as opposed to all three). But it did.
Since it does work, my theory is that the deflector restricts air
movement around #1 both by deflecting some air up and over the cylinder
and by restricting the flow down the front face of #1. Since air has
mass and wants to conserve its momentum, much of the "surplus" air
continues moving back to cylinder #3, giving that cylinder a
disproportionate amount of the surplus airflow.
If you follow this link, you'll find my post on the subject after I
installed the blocker on my airplane:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=136069920?KE
YS=cylinder_&_blocker_&_boatright?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=
1631014668?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
Kyle Boatright
----- Original Message -----
From: Konrad L. Werner
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
Hi Kyle,
I don't understand how a 1" air blocker in front of the # 1 would
increase your cooling on the rearward # 3. I can see how the blocker
would make both cylinders become more even in temps, but more by running
# 1 a bit hotter instead of # 3 cooler... Could you explain this to me
please.
Thanks,
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Brame" <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>
To: "RV-List RV-List"
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
>
> I also have had high CHT temps. Even with cooler outside air, my
#3 CHT
> will exceed 450 in a long fast cruise climb. Unlike you, I have
high oil
> temps which I associate with the high CHT. I haven't checked the
CHT
> probes for temp accuracy, but I did check the oil temp probe and
it was
> right on. My oil temp usually settles around 195 in cruise, but
will
> approach the red line in a long climb - again with cool outside
temps. It
> does cool down in cruise as do the CHTs. After about 15 - 20
minutes at
> cruise, all my CHTs are within about 25 degrees of each other
with a low
> of 375 and a high of 400 - all a bit on the high side.
>
> I only have about 20 hours on a rebuilt, zero time IO-320, so I am
hoping
> a few more hours of break in will solve all the temp problems. I
am
> planning on increasing the SCAT tube to my oil cooler plenum from
a 3
> inch to a 4 inch.
>
> I found this thread interesting as my baffle is very tight but I
do have
> about a 3/8th to 5/16 gap between my cowl and the spinner.
Something to
> work on in the future.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
I had the same problem with high CHT's on climb-out on #3. Usually
I saw
425 degrees, and on a hot/heavy day I'd see almost 450 on initial
climb out.
A 1" or so cylinder blocker in front of #1 tamed the problem and is
a fast
fix which has minimal impact on the temperatures on #1.
You can probably find more details in the archives (I made this mod
several
years ago).
As far as CHT's going down with break-in, I wouldn't bet on it. 99%
of the
heat in a cylinder is from the combustion process and that isn't
going to
change.
Good luck!
Kyle Navigator Photoshare, and
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
nbsp; via the Web
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
nbsp; generous bsp;
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference |
Kyle,
Thank you for the insight! This is rather interesting...
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 5:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
Konrad,
How/why does it work? Good question, and I didn't really expect much
in the way of results when I tried it, but figured it was about $0.25
worth of material and 10 minutes of work to find out. My belief at the
time was that everything inside the pressurized area inside the cowl
expeiences the same pressure which causes similar cooling flow around
each cylinder. I didn't see how reducing the airflow around one
cylinder would translate to a significant improvement in temperatures on
one other cylinder (as opposed to all three). But it did.
Since it does work, my theory is that the deflector restricts
air movement around #1 both by deflecting some air up and over the
cylinder and by restricting the flow down the front face of #1. Since
air has mass and wants to conserve its momentum, much of the "surplus"
air continues moving back to cylinder #3, giving that cylinder a
disproportionate amount of the surplus airflow.
If you follow this link, you'll find my post on the subject after I
installed the blocker on my airplane:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=136069920?KE
YS=cylinder_&_blocker_&_boatright?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=2?SERIAL=
1631014668?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
Kyle Boatright
----- Original Message -----
From: Konrad L. Werner
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
Hi Kyle,
I don't understand how a 1" air blocker in front of the # 1 would
increase your cooling on the rearward # 3. I can see how the blocker
would make both cylinders become more even in temps, but more by running
# 1 a bit hotter instead of # 3 cooler... Could you explain this to me
please.
Thanks,
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyle Boatright
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Brame" <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>
To: "RV-List RV-List"
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: WOW - What a difference
>
> I also have had high CHT temps. Even with cooler outside air, my
#3 CHT
> will exceed 450 in a long fast cruise climb. Unlike you, I have
high oil
> temps which I associate with the high CHT. I haven't checked
the CHT
> probes for temp accuracy, but I did check the oil temp probe
and it was
> right on. My oil temp usually settles around 195 in cruise, but
will
> approach the red line in a long climb - again with cool outside
temps. It
> does cool down in cruise as do the CHTs. After about 15 - 20
minutes at
> cruise, all my CHTs are within about 25 degrees of each other
with a low
> of 375 and a high of 400 - all a bit on the high side.
>
> I only have about 20 hours on a rebuilt, zero time IO-320, so I
am hoping
> a few more hours of break in will solve all the temp problems.
I am
> planning on increasing the SCAT tube to my oil cooler plenum
from a 3
> inch to a 4 inch.
>
> I found this thread interesting as my baffle is very tight but I
do have
> about a 3/8th to 5/16 gap between my cowl and the spinner.
Something to
> work on in the future.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
I had the same problem with high CHT's on climb-out on #3.
Usually I saw
425 degrees, and on a hot/heavy day I'd see almost 450 on initial
climb out.
A 1" or so cylinder blocker in front of #1 tamed the problem and
is a fast
fix which has minimal impact on the temperatures on #1.
You can probably find more details in the archives (I made this
mod several
years ago).
As far as CHT's going down with break-in, I wouldn't bet on it.
99% of the
heat in a cylinder is from the combustion process and that isn't
going to
change.
Good luck!
Kyle Navigator Photoshare, and
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
nbsp; via the Web
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Nose Gear SB Question |
Has anyone so far bothered to do a weight and re-balance calculation on this
SB change for a 6A? I'm not changing anything else except installing the
new fork and I had the nose gear strut re-machined at Langair. I know the new
fork is only a little lighter and the machined gear is only a little lighter
but it is way out in front, so it would seem a prudent thing to ask, or is
everyone just re-weighing?
-Thx
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 887hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WOW - What a difference (Cooling/Plenums) |
Perhaps it is Prandtl-Glauert singularity. Some neat pictures with the external
links!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prandtl-Glauert_singularity
Kyle Boatright wrote:
As a side note, it was humid here in N. GA this morning. Humid enough that I pulled
prop contrails for the entire length of my takeoff roll and probably another
3,000 feet down the runway on climb-out. It was kinda neat seeing a swirling
vortex wrapped around the airplane...
KB
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Wings
N497GS reserved
Carlsbad, NM
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
I'm going to be in Savannah, GA for two weeks, arriving on Sunday Feb. 24th.
I expect to be working long hours during the week, but I may have a free day
on the weekend of March 1-2. If I have any free time, I would be interested
in meeting up with any local RVers.
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
RV-8 Final Assembly
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Nose Gear SB Question |
Has anyone so far bothered to do a weight and re-balance calculation on this
SB change for a 6A? I'm not changing anything else except installing the
new fork and I had the nose gear strut re-machined at Langair. I know the new
fork is only a little lighter and the machined gear is only a little lighter
but it is way out in front, so it would seem a prudent thing to ask, or is
everyone just re-weighing?
-Thx
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 887hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl Fasteners |
Robin et.al.
I now have 1600 hours on my RV8 with the Sky Bolt Stainless fasteners
and adjustable receptacles.. When I built my RV8 10 years ago the
Skybolt fasteners were just coming on the market. The regular fasteners
available at that time were all to long for the limited clearance and
also thin top cowl that Van supplies. At that time I became acquainted
with the owners of Skybolt and advised them of my requirements. They
then designed an extra short fastener ( number 0) and a adjustable
receptacle that would clear the engine. I have never had a problem
with the fasteners or the Skybolt people. They have been honest and
prompt with delivery. Good luck with your project.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: Robin Marks
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 11:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Fasteners
If I have proven one thing to myself it's that I suck using the
archives. I review them each time before I post a question with limited
success.
It is time to make a Cowl Fastener decision. I plan on using Skybolt
STYLE CLoc adjustable fasteners on part of my cowl assembly. I remember
a discussion on the list that suggested alternate brands or styles of
these fasteners. Does anyone have a preference as to the fastener you
would choose as my archive search has been fruitless.
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A New Front Gear Leg and Fork
RV-10 Getting closer to getting closer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 9:23 PM
Subject: RV-List: Savannah, GA?
I'm going to be in Savannah, GA for two weeks, arriving on Sunday Feb.
24th.
I expect to be working long hours during the week, but I may have a free
day
on the weekend of March 1-2. If I have any free time, I would be
interested
in meeting up with any local RVers.
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
RV-8 Final Assembly
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/
Kevin: You might try to look in at Eagle Neck fifteen or so miles
south of
Savannah. It is an airpark cut out of the pines and rather like landing
in
a 100' deep trench.
There are several RV builders there. The area is tidal marsh and lovely
in
its own right.
Gordon Comfort
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nut Nomenclature |
| From: | "messydeer" <messydeer(at)yahoo.com> |
Hello!
Is there any difference between AN365-1032 and AN365-1032A? A new
number I think is MS20365-1032. Likewise AN365-428 and AN365-428A. I
just called Spruce and they said there was no difference, but then I
did a net search. Some RV builder had photos of a 428 and 428A. One was
about half the height of the other.
I looked at gahco's files and it didn't help much. Don't know of any
other place to search.
Cheers,
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165301#165301
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nut Nomenclature |
| From: | "Mark Grieve" <mark(at)macomb.com> |
Dan,
Lay your hands on a copy of the book Standard Aircraft Hardware published
by Aero. This book will answer your question. I'm 1000 miles from my copy
otherwise I'd simply look it up and tell you.
Mark
>
> Hello!
>
> Is there any difference between AN365-1032 and AN365-1032A? A new
> number I think is MS20365-1032. Likewise AN365-428 and AN365-428A. I
> just called Spruce and they said there was no difference, but then I
> did a net search. Some RV builder had photos of a 428 and 428A. One was
> about half the height of the other.
>
> I looked at gahco's files and it didn't help much. Don't know of any
> other place to search.
>
> Cheers,
> Dan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165301#165301
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nut Nomenclature |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Since no one has speculated here and Kelly has not piped in. I think
you will find that the MS20365 was an older bolt which is now commonly
replaced with the newer, improved standard AN365. The "A" at the end of
the designator is likely to represent "No hole present for purposes of a
securing Cotter Pin or safety system". Without the "A" is likely the
one that would actually have the hole and have the ability secure the
nut to the bolt.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of messydeer
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 5:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Nut Nomenclature
Hello!
Is there any difference between AN365-1032 and AN365-1032A? A new
number I think is MS20365-1032. Likewise AN365-428 and AN365-428A. I
just called Spruce and they said there was no difference, but then I
did a net search. Some RV builder had photos of a 428 and 428A. One was
about half the height of the other.
I looked at gahco's files and it didn't help much. Don't know of any
other place to search.
Cheers,
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165301#165301
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nut Nomenclature |
In a message dated 2/20/2008 10:35:35 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com writes:
Since no one has speculated here and Kelly has not piped in. I think
you will find that the MS20365 was an older bolt which is now commonly
replaced with the newer, improved standard AN365. The "A" at the end of
the designator is likely to represent "No hole present for purposes of a
securing Cotter Pin or safety system". Without the "A" is likely the
one that would actually have the hole and have the ability secure the
nut to the bolt.
==============================================================
First of all, this item is a nut, not a bolt. Suffixes mean different
things for different specs. In this case it means a non-metallic locking feature.
I thought that everyone knew where to get this information since the tax
payer financed it long ago. There is no need to speculate here. This stuff is
well established. Any MS, NAS and/or AN numbered military part has a spec
and any and all of these specs can be downloaded by number from
_http://www.assistdocs.com/search/search_basic.cfm_
(http://www.assistdocs.com/search/search_basic.cfm)
Why guess, get the straight scoop yourself.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 887hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve <stevea(at)svpal.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Nut Nomenclature |
Dan,
Spend $6 at Genuine Aircraft Hardware
(http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com) for a good AN/MS/NAS hardware
reference book. It is a great cross reference between the AN, MS, and
NAS part numbers. Reference book pages are also viewable on the web
site. The Spruce catalog is OK, but usually does not cross reference AN
to MS to NAS numbers.
Many of (most of?) the AN part numbers have been superseded by MS
numbers, but everyone in the GA world still seems to use the AN numbers.
Here's what the hardware reference book says:
AN365-xxxA translates to MS21044N(xx). This is a standard cad plated
steel nylock nut. The "A" suffix sometimes (maybe most of the time)
gets dropped off, probably because this is the nut used in most aircraft
applications. Van's drawings do not use the "A" suffix for the standard
steel hardware call out.
There is also a AN365-xxxC, now called a MS 21045C. This is a stainless
steel version of the standard size nylock nut.
Perhaps the smaller nut you saw was really a AN364-xxxA or AN364-xxxC
which translates into other MS numbers. This is a low profile nylock
nut (cad plated steel, or stainless).
Confused yet? :-)
good luck,
Steve A.
slowwwww build RV-6A
messydeer wrote:
>
> Hello!
>
> Is there any difference between AN365-1032 and AN365-1032A? A new
> number I think is MS20365-1032. Likewise AN365-428 and AN365-428A. I
> just called Spruce and they said there was no difference, but then I
> did a net search. Some RV builder had photos of a 428 and 428A. One was
> about half the height of the other.
>
> I looked at gahco's files and it didn't help much. Don't know of any
> other place to search.
>
> Cheers,
> Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mauri" <maurv8(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nut Nomenclature |
Dan,
Check out East Coast Aviation Supplies.
Web site: www.ecasinc.com
Good catalog which I use for reference and very competitive pricing also
easy to do business with.
I have no interest in this company, financial or otherwise.
Mauri
RV-8
finishing forever
Polson, MT
----- Original Message -----
From: "messydeer" <messydeer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 6:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Nut Nomenclature
>
> Hello!
>
> Is there any difference between AN365-1032 and AN365-1032A? A new
> number I think is MS20365-1032. Likewise AN365-428 and AN365-428A. I
> just called Spruce and they said there was no difference, but then I
> did a net search. Some RV builder had photos of a 428 and 428A. One was
> about half the height of the other.
>
> I looked at gahco's files and it didn't help much. Don't know of any
> other place to search.
>
> Cheers,
> Dan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=165301#165301
>
>
> --
> 10:26 AM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean Pichon <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Nut Nomenclature |
I just looked at the AN365 specification. The "A" suffix indicates a "non-m
etallic insert". According to the spec, An AN365-428 is a 1/4-28 nut "eith
er all metal or with non-metallic insert". Adding an "A" after the dash nu
mber forces a non-metallic insert.
AN365 is marked "INACTIVE FOR NEW DESIGN AFTER 11 MARCH 1957. USE STANDARD
MS20365". MS20365 has been superceded by MS21044 Specification MS21044 was
cancelled 12 MAY 1999 and replaced by NASM21044. This specification does,
however, retain the MS part numbering system. NASM21044 is an active speci
fication. This specification offers nuts in steel, aluminum, brass, and st
ainless. All flavors come with non-metallic inserts.
I hope this helps. Regards,> Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 09:32:14 -0800> From: s
tevea(at)svpal.org> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Nut Nomen
> Spend $6 at Genuine Aircraft Hardware > (http://www.gen-aircraft-hardwar
e.com) for a good AN/MS/NAS hardware > reference book. It is a great cross
reference between the AN, MS, and > NAS part numbers. Reference book pages
are also viewable on the web > site. The Spruce catalog is OK, but usually
does not cross reference AN > to MS to NAS numbers.> > Many of (most of?) t
he AN part numbers have been superseded by MS > numbers, but everyone in th
e GA world still seems to use the AN numbers.> > > Here's what the hardware
reference book says:> AN365-xxxA translates to MS21044N(xx). This is a sta
ndard cad plated > steel nylock nut. The "A" suffix sometimes (maybe most o
f the time) > gets dropped off, probably because this is the nut used in mo
st aircraft > applications. Van's drawings do not use the "A" suffix for th
e standard > steel hardware call out.> > There is also a AN365-xxxC, now ca
lled a MS 21045C. This is a stainless > steel version of the standard size
nylock nut.> > Perhaps the smaller nut you saw was really a AN364-xxxA or A
N364-xxxC > which translates into other MS numbers. This is a low profile n
ylock > nut (cad plated steel, or stainless).> > > Confused yet? :-)> > > g
ood luck,> Steve A.> slowwwww build RV-6A> > > messydeer wrote:> > --> RV-L
ist message posted by: "messydeer" > >> > Hello!> > >
> Is there any difference between AN365-1032 and AN365-1032A? A new> > numb
er I think is MS20365-1032. Likewise AN365-428 and AN365-428A. I> > just ca
lled Spruce and they said there was no difference, but then I> > did a net
search. Some RV builder had photos of a 428 and 428A. One was> > about half
the height of the other.> >> > I looked at gahco's files and it didn't hel
p much. Don't know of any> > other place to search.> >> > Cheers,> > Dan> >
======================> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail=AE-get yo
ur "fix".
http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nut Nomenclature |
Here are some special fasteners that aren't in the reference book. They can
be pretty handy and don't need approval for use on experimentals.
http://www.metricscrew-toolco.com/pg4.html
Regards,
Greg Young
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Nut Nomenclature - non-serious |
Ok, now that the serious discussion has gone on for a while I can post
this
without fear of interfering with the flow of information.
In regards to nut nomenclature, there is one nut that generally gets
overlooked even though it is a very important one. This is the nut that
gets attached to the controls of an RV and, in general terms, is
referred to
as an =93RV nut.=94 It=92s function is to hold an entire RV project
together;
sometimes more than one project is secured by a single nut. The RV nut
is
often qualified by model. Thus, we have the =93RV-3 nut=94 or the
=93Rocket nut=94.
My spouse is currently in possession of a slightly worn and cracked
RV-6A
nut. These nuts are also often denoted further as belonging to some
functional category, hence the =93Formation nut=94 or the =93Aerobatic
nut=94. The
nomenclature can easily and naturally be combined to refer to nuts that
serve several purposes, such as the =93RV building nut=94 or the =93RV-8
racing
nut=94. Notice that even though these nuts are widely available there
is very
little standardization and any group of nuts you find will often consist
of
several types mixed together. Care must be used in selecting the nuts
you
keep around; not all types work well together. Hopefully, however, you
won=92t have to look very far to find the right nut for your very own RV
project.
Patrick Kelley ' RV-6A ' panel wiring proceeding
2/21/2008
11:05 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
We are having an Aerobatics special on our radio show this week. We will
have Patty Wagstaff as a guest. We will also have aerobatics instructor and
former Red Barron Squadron member Keoki Gray as a guest. It should be a lot
of fun. Check the web site below to listen.
Brian Kraut
www.flighttimeradio.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray D. Congdon" <n7hqk(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | FS: RV-9A Kit to 25% of Fuse, w/Engine! |
Circumstances force me to part with my RV-9A kit. I have completed Emp,
Wings (ready for bottom skin) and the rear bottom half of the Fuse.
This kit includes a Lyc O-320 B3B with Mags, Vac Pump, Fuel Pump, Prop
Gov, Carb and Full Logs (Log shows 3849.2 TT & 1657.2 SMOH Dec 2001
when pulled from Left side of N4181P No Prop strike!).
I Plan on keeping the tools.
I prefer to keep the engine and Airframe Kit as a package for $23,500 You Pick
Up.
So get a jump on your build! Almost a Quick build! I do not have the finishing
kit.
Full photos are on my kitlog site: http://www.mykitlog.com/n7hqk
Located in Cedar City UT, 84720 n7hqk(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EGT probe location |
What is the preferred installation location for the EGT probes on a Lycoming
O-360 engine? How far down from the exhaust attachment yields the proper
temp? It's a RV-6A if that matters. Tnx.
Rick Grenwis
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT probe location |
EI recommends 1.5 in down from flange. Some have a small hole the flange
there..mine did, so drilled it on through and has worked well so
far...but don't have that many hours on the probes yet, so don't know
how well they will last. My old single probe was installed about 3 in
down...welded that up.
Don't know what JPI suggests. I have the UBG16 with fast response probes.
Grenwis(at)aol.com wrote:
> What is the preferred installation location for the EGT probes on a
> Lycoming O-360 engine? How far down from the exhaust attachment
> yields the proper temp? It's a RV-6A if that matters. Tnx.
> Rick Grenwis
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Delicious ideas to please the pickiest eaters. Watch the video on AOL
> Living.
> <http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT probe location |
Grenwis(at)aol.com wrote:
> What is the preferred installation location for the EGT probes on a
> Lycoming O-360 engine? How far down from the exhaust attachment
> yields the proper temp? It's a RV-6A if that matters. Tnx.
> Rick Grenwis
Hi Rick!
There is no 'proper' temp for EGT. Even slight differences in
orientation around the exhause stack or down it;s length will cause the
readings to change. What you're looking for is a relative change as you
lean, not a specific 'goal'.
Closer to the flange the hotter the reading will be, and of course the
further away the cooler. However, try and keep the probes in the same
spot for each header, as best you can. You also want to orient the
probes so that they don't interfere with anything else running close
.... like the cowl or oil/fuel / tubing etc.
Linn
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Delicious ideas to please the pickiest eaters. Watch the video on AOL
> Living.
> <http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT probe location |
The main thing is to have them all at the same distance since EGTs are
not an absolute number like CHT. You may find that the front right
tube determines the maximum if all are horizontal when installed. But
even
that depends on your exhaust system.
My recollection of mine is 1-4 inches but that is not verified. I put
mine
as far from the flange as I could and the most distant was maybe 2-2.5
inches
before a bend in the exhaust would cause orientation issues.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: Grenwis(at)aol.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 9:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: EGT probe location
What is the preferred installation location for the EGT probes on a
Lycoming O-360 engine? How far down from the exhaust attachment yields
the proper temp? It's a RV-6A if that matters. Tnx.
Rick Grenwis
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Delicious ideas to please the pickiest eaters. Watch the video on AOL
Living.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT probe location |
Hi All-
Another point to ponder is that the further from the cylinder the probes are, the
longer they are liable to last. As with everything we do in this field, it's
all a trade off.
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canopy slide block |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
For those of you who built the slider canopy, I am about to put the
canopy on for the final time (at the painters). How did you fasten the
slider block to the canopy to drag it back and forth. There is not much
room to fasten anything to it. I'm guessing that a fishing line of nylon
would work but how to fasten it to the block? I molded the skirt with
fiberglass so the block fits snugly when the canopy is closed. I need
some suggestions from those who have done it successfully.
Jim
N15JN
RV9-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
Hi gang,
A few months ago, many of you gave me a lot of help/instruction to
remove my leaky tank. I finally removed it today, with a lot less
problems than I anticipated. BUT, I am finding that the large (6")
access plate is not so obedient. I carefully removed all 12 screws.
Now what? The plate is prosealed in place, and has lots of
additional sealant from previous repairs. I removed most of the added
repair sealant while trying not to gauge away at the plate and rib.
Since I am not the builder, I am not sure what I am now looking at.
Looking at the edge of the access plate, it appears to be two layers
of aluminum resting on the rib material. Is there a reinforcement
ring between the access plate and the rib material? (I am calling the
ends of the tank "ribs" since they in fact are acting as such).
Whatever is there, the access plate is firmly attached with proseal
to the rib or ring below.
Anyway, I do not want to destroy this tank. How do I lift the access
plate away? Do I need to soften up the proseal? Can this be done?
Help!! I love you guys. Help! :-)
Thanks in advance.
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas tank repair |
If all the screws are out, only the proseal is holding it on. Work a blade
of some sort between the access cover and the rib, being careful not to
score anything.
Some more notes and pictures here:
http://bowenaero.com/mt/2006/11/conditional-inspection-2006.html
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Sun, Feb 24, 2008 at 6:05 PM, Louis Willig wrote:
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
> A few months ago, many of you gave me a lot of help/instruction to
> remove my leaky tank. I finally removed it today, with a lot less
> problems than I anticipated. BUT, I am finding that the large (6")
> access plate is not so obedient. I carefully removed all 12 screws.
> Now what? The plate is prosealed in place, and has lots of
> additional sealant from previous repairs. I removed most of the added
> repair sealant while trying not to gauge away at the plate and rib.
> Since I am not the builder, I am not sure what I am now looking at.
> Looking at the edge of the access plate, it appears to be two layers
> of aluminum resting on the rib material. Is there a reinforcement
> ring between the access plate and the rib material? (I am calling the
> ends of the tank "ribs" since they in fact are acting as such).
> Whatever is there, the access plate is firmly attached with proseal
> to the rib or ring below.
>
> Anyway, I do not want to destroy this tank. How do I lift the access
> plate away? Do I need to soften up the proseal? Can this be done?
> Help!! I love you guys. Help! :-)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas tank repair |
Get a metal putty knife and file the edge to a chisel point, then use that
to cut through the proseal.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 6:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gas tank repair
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
> A few months ago, many of you gave me a lot of help/instruction to remove
> my leaky tank. I finally removed it today, with a lot less problems than I
> anticipated. BUT, I am finding that the large (6") access plate is not so
> obedient. I carefully removed all 12 screws. Now what? The plate is
> prosealed in place, and has lots of additional sealant from previous
> repairs. I removed most of the added repair sealant while trying not to
> gauge away at the plate and rib. Since I am not the builder, I am not sure
> what I am now looking at. Looking at the edge of the access plate, it
> appears to be two layers of aluminum resting on the rib material. Is there
> a reinforcement ring between the access plate and the rib material? (I am
> calling the ends of the tank "ribs" since they in fact are acting as
> such). Whatever is there, the access plate is firmly attached with proseal
> to the rib or ring below.
>
> Anyway, I do not want to destroy this tank. How do I lift the access plate
> away? Do I need to soften up the proseal? Can this be done? Help!! I love
> you guys. Help! :-)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Louis,
There may , or may not, be a cork gasket between the tank rib and the panel
. My favorite weapon of choice for removing this panel is a slightly sharp
ened butter knife. Start working the knife between the panels and work it
around the panel cutting and prying slowly as you go. I tell everyone to t
ake their time when doing this and you will cause very little damage. Good
luck.
Mike Robertson
Repeat offender
Das Fed
> Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 18:05:09 -0500> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com> From: l
arywil(at)comcast.net> Subject: RV-List: Gas tank repair> > --> RV-List messag
e posted by: Louis Willig > > > Hi gang,> > A few mont
hs ago, many of you gave me a lot of help/instruction to > remove my leaky
tank. I finally removed it today, with a lot less > problems than I anticip
ated. BUT, I am finding that the large (6") > access plate is not so obedie
nt. I carefully removed all 12 screws. > Now what? The plate is prosealed i
n place, and has lots of > additional sealant from previous repairs. I remo
ved most of the added > repair sealant while trying not to gauge away at th
e plate and rib. > Since I am not the builder, I am not sure what I am now
looking at. > Looking at the edge of the access plate, it appears to be two
layers > of aluminum resting on the rib material. Is there a reinforcement
> ring between the access plate and the rib material? (I am calling the >
ends of the tank "ribs" since they in fact are acting as such). > Whatever
is there, the access plate is firmly attached with proseal > to the rib or
ring below.> > Anyway, I do not want to destroy this tank. How do I lift th
e access > plate away? Do I need to soften up the proseal? Can this be done
? > Help!! I love you guys. Help! :-)> > Thanks in advance.> > > > -> Louis
I Willig> 1640 Oakwood Dr.> Penn Valley, PA 19072> 610 668-4964> RV-4, N18
==========> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!
http://biggestloser.msn.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Ross" <dcr(at)fdltownhomes.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gas tank repair |
Louis: I used a heat gun to warn and soften the Proseal. I understand the
fuel tank is full of vapors and I kept the heat gun away from the tank
access plate as possible but still heat the plate sufficiently to soften the
Proseal and used a razor knife under the plate, MEK to clean. Hope this
helps, Dan.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy slide block |
Jim,
Look at the slider plans closely up in the right hand side and it shows the
attachment of the slider block. BTW I omitted mine.
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 2:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Canopy slide block
>
> For those of you who built the slider canopy, I am about to put the
> canopy on for the final time (at the painters). How did you fasten the
> slider block to the canopy to drag it back and forth. There is not much
> room to fasten anything to it. I'm guessing that a fishing line of nylon
> would work but how to fasten it to the block? I molded the skirt with
> fiberglass so the block fits snugly when the canopy is closed. I need
> some suggestions from those who have done it successfully.
>
> Jim
> N15JN
> RV9-A
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gas tank repair |
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
Get at it with plastic steak knives. Cheap and effective and doesn't
marr the alclad.
Doug Gray
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
> A few months ago, many of you gave me a lot of help/instruction to
> remove my leaky tank. I finally removed it today, with a lot less
> problems than I anticipated. BUT, I am finding that the large (6")
> access plate is not so obedient. I carefully removed all 12 screws.
> Now what? The plate is prosealed in place, and has lots of
> additional sealant from previous repairs. I removed most of the added
> repair sealant while trying not to gauge away at the plate and rib.
> Since I am not the builder, I am not sure what I am now looking at.
> Looking at the edge of the access plate, it appears to be two layers
> of aluminum resting on the rib material. Is there a reinforcement
> ring between the access plate and the rib material? (I am calling the
> ends of the tank "ribs" since they in fact are acting as such).
> Whatever is there, the access plate is firmly attached with proseal
> to the rib or ring below.
>
> Anyway, I do not want to destroy this tank. How do I lift the access
> plate away? Do I need to soften up the proseal? Can this be done?
> Help!! I love you guys. Help! :-)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas tank repair |
A method we have used successfully. when doing the SB fix on the pick up
line, is to use a very flexible putty knife sharpened a bit on the end edge.
Work it in between the plate and the ring. It helps if you can warm the
Proseal.(heat lamp or sun) After you have one side loose you can apply some
pressure to the plate by pulling/lifting on the loose side which will help
get the knife in around the remaining edge. A little bending of the plate is
OK when you are pulling on it as it will straighten when you release the
pressure.
Dale Ensing
EAA TC & FA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 6:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gas tank repair
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
> A few months ago, many of you gave me a lot of help/instruction to remove
> my leaky tank. I finally removed it today, with a lot less problems than I
> anticipated. BUT, I am finding that the large (6") access plate is not so
> obedient. I carefully removed all 12 screws. Now what? The plate is
> prosealed in place, and has lots of additional sealant from previous
> repairs. I removed most of the added repair sealant while trying not to
> gauge away at the plate and rib. Since I am not the builder, I am not sure
> what I am now looking at. Looking at the edge of the access plate, it
> appears to be two layers of aluminum resting on the rib material. Is there
> a reinforcement ring between the access plate and the rib material? (I am
> calling the ends of the tank "ribs" since they in fact are acting as
> such). Whatever is there, the access plate is firmly attached with proseal
> to the rib or ring below.
>
> Anyway, I do not want to destroy this tank. How do I lift the access plate
> away? Do I need to soften up the proseal? Can this be done? Help!! I love
> you guys. Help! :-)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gas tank repair |
Hey Guys-
RE: >Louis: I used a heat gun to warn and soften the Proseal. I understand the
>fuel tank is full of vapors and I kept the heat gun away from the tank
>access plate as possible but still heat the plate sufficiently to soften the
>Proseal and used a razor knife under the plate, MEK to clean. Hope this
>helps, Dan.
If MEK will soften the proseal, how about standing the tank on it's outboard end
with MEK on the inbd end. Put some sort of cover over the butt rib to limit
evaporation. If you let the tank sit a day ot two, would the access panel come
free easily, or would you just cause other problems?
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall foreward cooling air needs |
Here's the setup:
IO360B1F6 with CS MT prop, AFP injection, LASAR ignition, Vetterman crossover heater/mufflers
in a SamJames cowled/plenum'd RV6A.
I'm planning on putting the oil cooler behind the #4 cylinder with its cutout for
airflow feeding the oil cooler.
My heater/mufflers require cooling air over them even when they're not heating
the cockpit according to Larry.
I'm thinking that taking the cooling air for both heater/mufflers from the back
plate behind the #2 cylinder should be OK - since I'm taking a chunk from each
side.
Is this a valid thought? - or does it not matter since I have a plenum.
For the cabin heat air, would it be better to take the air from the vertical plate
or the 40 degree angled plate below it?
Thanks,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
You might try a plastic putty knife. I have a set of three that were very
cheap but seem to be just the right hardness and stiffness to scrape gunk
off of aluminum without damaging the aluminum.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Ensing
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 3:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gas tank repair
A method we have used successfully. when doing the SB fix on the pick up
line, is to use a very flexible putty knife sharpened a bit on the end edge.
Work it in between the plate and the ring. It helps if you can warm the
Proseal.(heat lamp or sun) After you have one side loose you can apply some
pressure to the plate by pulling/lifting on the loose side which will help
get the knife in around the remaining edge. A little bending of the plate is
OK when you are pulling on it as it will straighten when you release the
pressure.
Dale Ensing
EAA TC & FA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 6:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gas tank repair
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
> A few months ago, many of you gave me a lot of help/instruction to remove
> my leaky tank. I finally removed it today, with a lot less problems than I
> anticipated. BUT, I am finding that the large (6") access plate is not so
> obedient. I carefully removed all 12 screws. Now what? The plate is
> prosealed in place, and has lots of additional sealant from previous
> repairs. I removed most of the added repair sealant while trying not to
> gauge away at the plate and rib. Since I am not the builder, I am not sure
> what I am now looking at. Looking at the edge of the access plate, it
> appears to be two layers of aluminum resting on the rib material. Is there
> a reinforcement ring between the access plate and the rib material? (I am
> calling the ends of the tank "ribs" since they in fact are acting as
> such). Whatever is there, the access plate is firmly attached with proseal
> to the rib or ring below.
>
> Anyway, I do not want to destroy this tank. How do I lift the access plate
> away? Do I need to soften up the proseal? Can this be done? Help!! I love
> you guys. Help! :-)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firewall foreward cooling air needs |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Ralph,
I have the same situation. I put in a air source on the ramp for
the #2 cyl for the left muffler. I put in a source for the port side on
the angled baffle behind #3 cyl. This seems to be my best way. I am not
flying yet but the bird is at the painters right now. Hopefully I'll be
flying by the end of March.
Jim
N15JN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Canopy Slide block |
I made an aluminum "dog house" that covers the slide rail at the back
of the canopy on my 6A slider. It fits quite tight when the canopy is
closed and doesn't leave enough room vertically for the slider. I
omitted the slider and there is not enough gap to worry about. The
slider was an "after thought" anyway and was not on my original plans.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-----------------------------
>
>
> Subject: RV-List: Canopy slide block
> From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
>
>
> For those of you who built the slider canopy, I am about to put the
> canopy on for the final time (at the painters). How did you fasten
> the
> slider block to the canopy to drag it back and forth. There is not
> much
> room to fasten anything to it. I'm guessing that a fishing line of
> nylon
> would work but how to fasten it to the block? I molded the skirt with
> fiberglass so the block fits snugly when the canopy is closed. I need
> some suggestions from those who have done it successfully.
>
> Jim
> N15JN
> RV9-A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Comment period on FAA ADS-B Out NPRM ends in one week |
There is one week left to comment on this onerous and fatally flawed
FAA proposal that may cost as much as $17,000 per aircraft with
little to no benefit to the GA community.
My website at StopADS-B.org/ADS.htm gives details. You can also
read about it at aopa.org.
Ron Lee
StopADS-B.org/ADS.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas tank repair |
At 06:02 AM 2/25/2008, you wrote:
>
>A method we have used successfully. when doing the SB fix on the
>pick up line, is to use a very flexible putty knife sharpened a bit
>on the end edge. Work it in between the plate and the ring. It helps
>if you can warm the Proseal.(heat lamp or sun) After you have one
>side loose you can apply some pressure to the plate by
>pulling/lifting on the loose side which will help get the knife in
>around the remaining edge. A little bending of the plate is OK when
>you are pulling on it as it will straighten when you release the pressure.
>Dale Ensing
>EAA TC & FA
Dale,
you are the first person to use the word " ring". Is there a ring (
like a reinforcing) between the access plate and the tank wall? I
see what looks like two layers of metal attached to the rib. Is
this an illusion? (or is there actually a ring between the access
plate and the tank wall? I have been unable to decide where to attack
with my sharpened knife.
Several people have suggested heating the area. This is a great idea.
And there are zero fumes left in the tank.
Thanks to all so far. I've been on the "list" for over ten years, and
this is why.
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas tank repair |
>
> At 06:02 AM 2/25/2008, you wrote:
>>
>>
>> A method we have used successfully. when doing the SB fix on the
>> pick up line, is to use a very flexible putty knife sharpened a
>> bit on the end edge. Work it in between the plate and the ring. It
>> helps if you can warm the Proseal.(heat lamp or sun) After you
>> have one side loose you can apply some pressure to the plate by
>> pulling/lifting on the loose side which will help get the knife in
>> around the remaining edge. A little bending of the plate is OK
>> when you are pulling on it as it will straighten when you release
>> the pressure.
>> Dale Ensing
>> EAA TC & FA
>
> you are the first person to use the word " ring". Is there a ring
> ( like a reinforcing) between the access plate and the tank wall?
> I see what looks like two layers of metal attached to the rib. Is
> this an illusion? (or is there actually a ring between the access
> plate and the tank wall? I have been unable to decide where to
> attack with my sharpened knife.
>
There is a reinforcing ring, but it should have been installed on the
inside of the tank. But, perhaps the builder put it on the outside.
If there truly are two layers of metal outboard of the tank rib, then
the putty knife would need to go between the access cover and the
next layer. The reinforcing ring should be riveted to the tank rib,
so you won't be prying it loose with a putty knife.
Good luck,
--
Kevin Horton
RV-8 (Finishing Kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas tank repair |
I do not recall a separate reinforcement ring on my 6A. Only that which is
formed into the rib/tank wall. Could you be seeing a cork gasket? Or other
gasket material? I suggest you start working the tool between the access
plate and what ever is next.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gas tank repair
>
> At 06:02 AM 2/25/2008, you wrote:
>>
>>A method we have used successfully. when doing the SB fix on the pick up
>>line, is to use a very flexible putty knife sharpened a bit on the end
>>edge. Work it in between the plate and the ring. It helps if you can warm
>>the Proseal.(heat lamp or sun) After you have one side loose you can
>>apply some pressure to the plate by pulling/lifting on the loose side
>>which will help get the knife in around the remaining edge. A little
>>bending of the plate is OK when you are pulling on it as it will
>>straighten when you release the pressure.
>>Dale Ensing
>>EAA TC & FA
>
> Dale,
>
> you are the first person to use the word " ring". Is there a ring ( like
> a reinforcing) between the access plate and the tank wall? I see what
> looks like two layers of metal attached to the rib. Is this an illusion?
> (or is there actually a ring between the access plate and the tank wall? I
> have been unable to decide where to attack with my sharpened knife.
>
> Several people have suggested heating the area. This is a great idea. And
> there are zero fumes left in the tank.
>
> Thanks to all so far. I've been on the "list" for over ten years, and this
> is why.
>
>
> -
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
Hey Terry-
Thanks for the reply on the stab offset a while back. Sorry for the slow
response- I may be slow, but I am stupid....
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
Do not archiv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas tank repair |
Dale,
As I recall on my 9A there is a separate reinforcement ring that the
nutplates as flush riveted to and then prosealed to the inside of the outer
most rib. The cover plate is then prosealed on the inside and then attached
to the rib with screws with the cork gasket sandwiched between. This is the
cover plate NOT the sender attach plate. So the screws are through cover
plate-cork gasket-rib-reinforcement ring-platenuts. Check your plans set
but I am almost positive that is how the 9A tanks are assembled. Now for
the disclaimer before anyone jumps my neck-Check you plan set, I may be
wrong since I have not looked at the plans for about 2 years, this is only
my recollection of the sequence.
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 6:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gas tank repair
>
> I do not recall a separate reinforcement ring on my 6A. Only that which is
> formed into the rib/tank wall. Could you be seeing a cork gasket? Or other
> gasket material? I suggest you start working the tool between the access
> plate and what ever is next.
> Dale
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 6:04 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gas tank repair
>
>
>>
>> At 06:02 AM 2/25/2008, you wrote:
>>>
>>>A method we have used successfully. when doing the SB fix on the pick up
>>>line, is to use a very flexible putty knife sharpened a bit on the end
>>>edge. Work it in between the plate and the ring. It helps if you can warm
>>>the Proseal.(heat lamp or sun) After you have one side loose you can
>>>apply some pressure to the plate by pulling/lifting on the loose side
>>>which will help get the knife in around the remaining edge. A little
>>>bending of the plate is OK when you are pulling on it as it will
>>>straighten when you release the pressure.
>>>Dale Ensing
>>>EAA TC & FA
>>
>> Dale,
>>
>> you are the first person to use the word " ring". Is there a ring ( like
>> a reinforcing) between the access plate and the tank wall? I see what
>> looks like two layers of metal attached to the rib. Is this an
>> illusion? (or is there actually a ring between the access plate and the
>> tank wall? I have been unable to decide where to attack with my sharpened
>> knife.
>>
>> Several people have suggested heating the area. This is a great idea. And
>> there are zero fumes left in the tank.
>>
>> Thanks to all so far. I've been on the "list" for over ten years, and
>> this is why.
>>
>>
>>
>> -
>> Louis I Willig
>> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
>> Penn Valley, PA 19072
>> 610 668-4964
>> RV-4, N180PF
>> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
And there are zero fumes left in the tank.
This condition is not possible unless there has never been any fuel in the
tank.
And I've seen more then one person have a booming experience believing it
was possible.
Some old, still living, tank welders tricks are route some exhaust gasses
into the tank while working on it, dry nitrogen, and I think they used to
pour some carbon tetrocloride, or something like that into it, again to fume
out the oxygen.
However, if we see you whiz by during the next eclipse we'll at least know
what became of you...
;{)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
The Poor Man's purge system is a few chunks of Dry Ice which when
evaporated creates CO2 which is heavier than hydrocarbon fumes.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 8:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: tanks
And there are zero fumes left in the tank.
This condition is not possible unless there has never been any fuel in
the
tank.
And I've seen more then one person have a booming experience believing
it
was possible.
Some old, still living, tank welders tricks are route some exhaust
gasses
into the tank while working on it, dry nitrogen, and I think they used
to
pour some carbon tetrocloride, or something like that into it, again to
fume
out the oxygen.
However, if we see you whiz by during the next eclipse we'll at least
know
what became of you...
;{)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merlin" <phil.merlin(at)skynet.be> |
Hello,
To export a certified Lycoming to Europe, Vans told me they cannot join a
8130-4 form. They put instead an export airworthiness certificate, which is
not valid in Belgium. Does a dear European fellow RV Member have more
experience with such a problem ? (Nothing found in the archive).
Thanks in advance to the community,
Philippe
Brussels
RV9A - busy with fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Phillippe,
I work for the Federal Aviation Admin here in the US and used to prepare th
e Export documents for Van's Aircraft. According to AC 21-2K the US and Be
lgium have a bi-lateral agreement. They should, therefore, accept the expo
rt Certificate of Airworthiness that needs to issued for an engine. If you
are having problems with your local people you can contact our internation
al office in Brussels at the American Embassy.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
From: phil.merlin(at)skynet.beTo: rv-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV-List: 8130-
4 FAA FormDate: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 20:12:27 +0100
Hello,
To export a certified Lycoming to Europe, Vans told me they cannot join a 8
130-4 form. They put instead an export airworthiness certificate, which is
not valid in Belgium. Does a dear European fellow RV Member have more expe
rience with such a problem ? (Nothing found in the archive).
Thanks in advance to the community,
Philippe
Brussels
RV9A - busy with fuselage
_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_0120
08
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
Folks, I have to give some "kudos" to Langair. I shipped them my gear leg
to perform the SB07-11-9 modification to the gear leg for my RV-6A and he
turned it around in ONE day!!! GREAT serivce and the leg looks just like
the new leg that it is! Sure wish Van's backlog of the new wheel weldment
would ease up a bit now.
Marty in Brentwood TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Density altitude take-off charts |
Does anyone have a Density Altitude chart for their RV?
There was discussion of an attached one in the archives but I couldn't find it.
One of the sites alluded to in the archive post had an odd-looking chart telling
us to add xxx percent to our take-off distance.
I'm figuring that during my fly-off period, I'll be determining my normal take-off
distance and could build a Density Altitude chart for my POH.
Granted, with 180hp available, the calculations should come out OK for every place
that I would fly from.....however, I think this is something that should be
in my POH......
Ralph Capen
Doing paperwork during the weekdays and airplane building on the weekends!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | 5th Annual Leeward Air Ranch Invitational Fly in |
Plan to visit us on your way to Sun n Fun! Tell your fellow RVators about
it!
Leeward RVators are planning The 5th Annual INVITATIONAL RV FLY-IN for
Saturday, April 5, 2008. If you are interested in attending please send an
e-mail to Esten Spears giving Names, Address, RV Type, and if not flying
your RV in; Mode of arrival. Esten will respond with an invitation
containing Event,
Flying, and Driving Information. Keep in mind that this is BY INVITATION
ONLY.
Richard Dayton is the Event Manager. If you have further questions he can
be contacted at rdayton34472(at)comcast.net
Send your e-mail to Esten at: ewspears(at)comcast.net
Esten Spears, Leeward Air Ranch
9127 SE 72nd Avenue
Ocala, FL 34472
352-347-3523
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Density altitude take-off charts |
There is a Koch Chart at http://www.nappf.com/nappf_density_altitude.htm
To use the chart you do need to have the performance for standard
conditions.
Larry Pardue
On Feb 27, 2008, at 9:53 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have a Density Altitude chart for their RV?
>
> There was discussion of an attached one in the archives but I
> couldn't find it.
>
> One of the sites alluded to in the archive post had an odd-looking
> chart telling us to add xxx percent to our take-off distance.
>
> I'm figuring that during my fly-off period, I'll be determining my
> normal take-off distance and could build a Density Altitude chart
> for my POH.
>
> Granted, with 180hp available, the calculations should come out OK
> for every place that I would fly from.....however, I think this is
> something that should be in my POH......
>
> Ralph Capen
> Doing paperwork during the weekdays and airplane building on the
> weekends!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
At 11:46 AM 2/26/2008, you wrote:
>
>And there are zero fumes left in the tank.
>
>
>This condition is not possible unless there has never been any fuel in the
>tank.
>
>And I've seen more then one person have a booming experience believing it
>was possible.
Wheeler,
Thanks for the post. Actually, I removed the latent fumes by setting
the open tank outside overnight at 20 degrees. In the morning, I
brought the tank into a warm hangar. By setting it on its end, the
cool fumes (whatever were left) fell through the fuel filler opening
as the warm air displaced them through the open fuel pick-up opening.
A few seconds of compressed air in the other direction ( filler cap
off, and air vent pinched off) destroyed any pockets. I did this
again the next day.
Cost nothing, very effective, not very time consuming. I thought
about using dry ice last week but setting it inside the tank would
destroy the painted skin (too cold). I thought about filling the tank
with water, also. This would work well, but I didn't know the
downside of this option. But, again, thanks for the safety tip.
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Density altitude take-off charts |
Thanks for the responses and pointers to the Koch charts. I'll be developing the
standard day info for my 6A during the 40 hour fly-off before I go to out of
the way places.
My home base is elevation 30' so I think i'll be OK unless it's over 120 degrees
out........
-----Original Message-----
>From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com>
>Sent: Feb 27, 2008 1:22 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Density altitude take-off charts
>
>
>There is a Koch Chart at http://www.nappf.com/nappf_density_altitude.htm
>
>To use the chart you do need to have the performance for standard
>conditions.
>
>Larry Pardue
>
>
>On Feb 27, 2008, at 9:53 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone have a Density Altitude chart for their RV?
>>
>> There was discussion of an attached one in the archives but I
>> couldn't find it.
>>
>> One of the sites alluded to in the archive post had an odd-looking
>> chart telling us to add xxx percent to our take-off distance.
>>
>> I'm figuring that during my fly-off period, I'll be determining my
>> normal take-off distance and could build a Density Altitude chart
>> for my POH.
>>
>> Granted, with 180hp available, the calculations should come out OK
>> for every place that I would fly from.....however, I think this is
>> something that should be in my POH......
>>
>> Ralph Capen
>> Doing paperwork during the weekdays and airplane building on the
>> weekends!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
I'd simply purge the tank with a very good dose of an inert gas like
nitrogen to displace any gasoline fumes out through the openings... Make
sure YOU still have breathable air for your lungs though!!!
I would definitely NOT use water, as it is an enemy in any fuel tank...
----- Original Message -----
From: Louis Willig
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: tanks
At 11:46 AM 2/26/2008, you wrote:
>
>And there are zero fumes left in the tank.
>
>
>This condition is not possible unless there has never been any fuel
in the
>tank.
>
>And I've seen more then one person have a booming experience
believing it
>was possible.
Wheeler,
Thanks for the post. Actually, I removed the latent fumes by setting
the open tank outside overnight at 20 degrees. In the morning, I
brought the tank into a warm hangar. By setting it on its end, the
cool fumes (whatever were left) fell through the fuel filler opening
as the warm air displaced them through the open fuel pick-up opening.
A few seconds of compressed air in the other direction ( filler cap
off, and air vent pinched off) destroyed any pockets. I did this
again the next day.
Cost nothing, very effective, not very time consuming. I thought
about using dry ice last week but setting it inside the tank would
destroy the painted skin (too cold). I thought about filling the tank
with water, also. This would work well, but I didn't know the
downside of this option. But, again, thanks for the safety tip.
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Density altitude take-off charts |
Ralph,
As you imply, an RV-4-6-7-8 with 180 hp will take off of most fields
and D/A conditions you will probably ever encounter with relative
ease. After spending a lot of time in a C150 at 6000-7000 ft altitude
airports, my RV-4 makes take-offs seem a dream come true. BUT,
landings should always be an item to consider at high D/A's.
Interestingly, so will "go arounds". They will be a little different.
But the power is there to use. Be positive and smooth on a go around
if things get dicey at high D/A's.
> >> Does anyone have a Density Altitude chart for their RV?
>
>
> >> Granted, with 180hp available, the calculations should come out OK
> >> for every place that I would fly from.....however, I think this is
> >> something that should be in my POH......
> >>
> >> Ralph Capen
> >> Doing paperwork during the weekdays and airplane building on the
> >> weekends!
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Grant Neilson" <grantneilson(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Carb heat in the 9A |
Nature I see nowhere in the plans indicating that warmed air should be
routed via a SCAT tube directly to the hole made in the top plate of the
filtered air box. Is the radiant heat from the adjacent exhaust pipe in the
low pressure area of the cowling sufficient for carb heat or should I be
directing some air to the opening in the filtered air box with a heat muff /
SCAT tube?
Thanks for any input.
Grant Neilson, RV9A finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Carb heat in the 9A |
There is a small heat muff that goes around the crossover tube right above
the airbox that is connected to the airbox but a short section of scat tube
. I don't remember which drawing it is in but it does come with the firewa
ll forward kit, if you have it.
Mike Robertson
From: grantneilson(at)telus.netTo: rv-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV-List: Carb
heat in the 9ADate: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 13:38:51 -0800
I see nowhere in the plans indicating that warmed air should be routed
via a SCAT tube directly to the hole made in the top plate of the filtered
air box. Is the radiant heat from the adjacent exhaust pipe in the low pres
sure area of the cowling sufficient for carb heat or should I be directing
some air to the opening in the filtered air box with a heat muff / SCAT tub
e?
Thanks for any input.
Grant Neilson, RV9A finishing
_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging.-You IM, we g
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph Hoover <hooverra(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Carb heat in the 9A |
Grant,
I installed Van's heat muff on the x over pipe on my 7A, I have not
flown yet so no pirep.
Anyone else attest to the effectiveness?
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1204238207-138-198&browse=engines&product=carbheat-muff
--
Ralph C. Hoover
RV7A
hooverra at verizon dot net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Duran" <duranberg(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
I am considering using stainless steel tubing for the rigid fuel lines on my
7. Yeah I know there are hundreds of RV's and thousands of other planes
flying around out there with aluminum lines, but I thought it would be fun
and educational to use SS, help my TIG welding skills, etc....
Anyway, can anyone come up with any negatives to doing so?
Michael Duran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
!. $$$$$
2. I may be wrong but I believe that you can only use steel AN fittings
with SS.
3. $$$$$
4. I could see doing the brake lines, ie pressure, but why the fuel
lines? Have you looked at all of the bends that have to be made? If
you have an IO engine = nightmare.
Good luck,
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Duran
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 12:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
I am considering using stainless steel tubing for the rigid fuel lines
on my 7. Yeah I know there are hundreds of RV's and thousands of other
planes flying around out there with aluminum lines, but I thought it
would be fun and educational to use SS, help my TIG welding skills,
etc....
Anyway, can anyone come up with any negatives to doing so?
Michael Duran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
Hi Michael,
Here are four negatives:
A way to add extra weight.
A way to add extra cost.
A way to add to the level of technical difficulty.
A way to add extra physical work bending and fitting etc.
The Kiss rule rules, {[;-)
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Duran
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 9:27 PM
Subject: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
I am considering using stainless steel tubing for the rigid fuel lines
on my 7. Yeah I know there are hundreds of RV's and thousands of other
planes flying around out there with aluminum lines, but I thought it
would be fun and educational to use SS, help my TIG welding skills,
etc....
Anyway, can anyone come up with any negatives to doing so?
Michael Duran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Carb heat in the 9A |
It does seem effective in flight as there is a rpm drop when applied. Mine
doesn't make any difference on the ground when doing a run up. I wouldn't
hesitate to use it as shown.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph Hoover
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 4:41 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Carb heat in the 9A
>
>
> Grant,
> I installed Van's heat muff on the x over pipe on my 7A, I have not
> flown yet so no pirep.
> Anyone else attest to the effectiveness?
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1204238207-138-
> 198&browse=engines&product=carbheat-muff
>
> --
> Ralph C. Hoover
> RV7A
> hooverra at verizon dot net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb heat in the 9A |
I installed one of these on our 6A and was not impressed. We got maybe
10 rpm drop. We changed it out to about a 10" long muff fitted over on
of the crossover pipes and got much better results. That said, I've
never needed carb heat on our O-320, although I do use a little bit when
aggressively leaning to aid with atomization.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Ralph Hoover wrote:
>
> Grant,
> I installed Van's heat muff on the x over pipe on my 7A, I have not
> flown yet so no pirep.
> Anyone else attest to the effectiveness?
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1204238207-138-198&browse=engines&product=carbheat-muff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Veld <jcveld(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: stainless fuel lines |
In addition to the 4 negatives in the reply below:
-you mentioned TIG welding... you do NOT want welds in your
fuel
lines!!.... due to possible corrosion, fatigue life issues, etc.
-a stainless tubing system requires all stainless, or at least
steel,
fittings... using a stainless 'b' nut on an aluminum nipple will
eventually lead to galvanic corrosion, galling of the threads when you
try to remove the lines, and leaking due to corrosion of the
sealing
surface of the aluminum nipple...
-the stainless tubing is more rigid, and MAY transfer more
vibration
loads, etc to the supporting structure (with fatigue cracking
results) ... especially if the bends are not EXACT, causing you to
need to use some force to line up the ends...
I spent 15 years in the USAF in aircraft structural repair and have
made literally hundreds of hyd, fuel, & air lines from aluminum and
stainless steel .... i have also seen most of the conditions i have
described here... (not the welded fuel lines, though...NOBODY does that)
....hope this is educational enough for you!
John V in Kalamazoo
On 29 Feb, 2008, at 0257, RV-List Digest Serve
r wrote:
> Here are four negatives:
>
> A way to add extra weight.
> A way to add extra cost.
> A way to add to the level of technical difficulty.
> A way to add extra physical work bending and fitting etc.
>
> The Kiss rule rules, {[;-)
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Michael Duran
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 9:27 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
>
>
> I am considering using stainless steel tubing for the rigid fuel
> lines
> on my 7. Yeah I know there are hundreds of RV's and thousands of
> other
> planes flying around out there with aluminum lines, but I thought it
> would be fun and educational to use SS, help my TIG welding skills,
> etc....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidbf(at)centurytel.net |
I'm wondering what RVers are doing for wheel chocks when parking on a ramp. At
some of the airports I've flown to, one in particular I'm met with a line guy
wanting to kick the thick yellow chocks into my wheelpants, but eventually
brings it back to the tailwheel. I've seen some plastic wedges advertised
along with metal angle, but wondered if anyone's found the item to be the ideal
thing for the RV.
Dave Ford
Cadillac, MI
RV6 flying 250 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
If you did use stainless lines, you would most
certainly want to use AN flared tubing, and not mess
around with welded line.
Nevertheless, as others have already pointed out, this
is a good way to add weight and expense without
addning much real benefit.
Skylor
RV-8 QB
Under Construction
--- Michael Duran wrote:
> I am considering using stainless steel tubing for
> the rigid fuel lines on my
> 7. Yeah I know there are hundreds of RV's and
> thousands of other planes
> flying around out there with aluminum lines, but I
> thought it would be fun
> and educational to use SS, help my TIG welding
> skills, etc....
>
> Anyway, can anyone come up with any negatives to
> doing so?
>
>
> Michael Duran
>
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wheel chocks |
I carry a couple of short lengths of 3/4" angle I had left over from
building the airplane. Lightweight, easily packable, and works well...
----- Original Message -----
From: <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 9:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: wheel chocks
>
> I'm wondering what RVers are doing for wheel chocks when parking on a
> ramp. At
> some of the airports I've flown to, one in particular I'm met with a line
> guy
> wanting to kick the thick yellow chocks into my wheelpants, but eventually
> brings it back to the tailwheel. I've seen some plastic wedges advertised
> along with metal angle, but wondered if anyone's found the item to be the
> ideal
> thing for the RV.
>
>
> Dave Ford
> Cadillac, MI
> RV6 flying 250 hrs
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <kahamer(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Carb heat in the 9A |
Hi all
I had one from Vans initially in my 6A and the rpm drop was very
small.Changed over to one made by Robins Wings and got 100rpm drop.
Karl/Sydney Australia
7A first flight maybe this Sunday!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Saturday, 1 March 2008 4:14 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Carb heat in the 9A
It does seem effective in flight as there is a rpm drop when applied.
Mine
doesn't make any difference on the ground when doing a run up. I
wouldn't
hesitate to use it as shown.
Tim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph Hoover
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 4:41 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Carb heat in the 9A
>
>
> Grant,
> I installed Van's heat muff on the x over pipe on my 7A, I have
not
> flown yet so no pirep.
> Anyone else attest to the effectiveness?
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1204238207-138-
> 198&browse=engines&product=carbheat-muff
>
> --
> Ralph C. Hoover
> RV7A
> hooverra at verizon dot net
>
>
>
28/02/2008 12:14 PM
28/02/2008 12:14 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wheel chocks |
I like the Koger chocks from Cleveland Tools. The tire rolls on to the chock
base and prevents it from skidding. Also like the way they nest together for
storage. I use only one set on the nose wheel. You may want two sets for the
mains.
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=KWCB2
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
Weddington NC
----- Original Message -----
From: <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 9:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: wheel chocks
>
> I'm wondering what RVers are doing for wheel chocks when parking on a
> ramp. At
> some of the airports I've flown to, one in particular I'm met with a line
> guy
> wanting to kick the thick yellow chocks into my wheelpants, but eventually
> brings it back to the tailwheel. I've seen some plastic wedges advertised
> along with metal angle, but wondered if anyone's found the item to be the
> ideal
> thing for the RV.
>
>
> Dave Ford
> Cadillac, MI
> RV6 flying 250 hrs
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: wheel chocks |
I have I have pretty low wheel fairings on my RV-6. I made up some 3/4 in PVC
pipe chocks that have worked very well for me for going on four years now. With
two Ls and two caps, make up a U shaped chock for each wheel. The spanwise
legs are about eight inches long and make the chordwise leg so that they fit
a little snug to the tire. There is a little trick to removing them that you
will quickly pick up on. They are light. very effective and cheap, what more
can you ask for.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, flying - 443 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: davidbf(at)centurytel.net
>
> I'm wondering what RVers are doing for wheel chocks when parking on a ramp.
At
> some of the airports I've flown to, one in particular I'm met with a line guy
> wanting to kick the thick yellow chocks into my wheelpants, but eventually
> brings it back to the tailwheel. I've seen some plastic wedges advertised
> along with metal angle, but wondered if anyone's found the item to be the ideal
> thing for the RV.
>
>
> Dave Ford
> Cadillac, MI
> RV6 flying 250 hrs
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bayne" <bjust(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wheel chocks |
Hi David,
I use the Koger wheel chocks on my RV-9A, they do the job.
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/koger-chocks.htm
Bayne
RV-9A N910BJ
KSEE Gillespie Field
San Diego
----- Original Message -----
From: <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 6:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: wheel chocks
>
> I'm wondering what RVers are doing for wheel chocks when parking on a
> ramp. At
> some of the airports I've flown to, one in particular I'm met with a line
> guy
> wanting to kick the thick yellow chocks into my wheelpants, but eventually
> brings it back to the tailwheel. I've seen some plastic wedges advertised
> along with metal angle, but wondered if anyone's found the item to be the
> ideal
> thing for the RV.
>
>
> Dave Ford
> Cadillac, MI
> RV6 flying 250 hrs
>
>
> --
> 8:18 AM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carb heat in the 9A |
Go here and order the carb heat muff and airbox housing :-)
http://www.robbinswings.com/products.htm
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my flying RV7A web page:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm
Grant Neilson wrote:
> I see nowhere in the plans indicating that warmed air should be
> routed via a SCAT tube directly to the hole made in the top plate of
> the filtered air box. Is the radiant heat from the adjacent exhaust
> pipe in the low pressure area of the cowling sufficient for carb heat
> or should I be directing some air to the opening in the filtered air
> box with a heat muff / SCAT tube?
> Thanks for any input.
>
> Grant Neilson, RV9A finishing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
Mike: the only thing is how you aare going to do all that bending, believe me
it was
hard and tedious, even on all aluminum tubes...
bert
mike humphrey wrote:
!. $$$$$
2. I may be wrong but I believe that you can only use steel AN fittings with
SS.
3. $$$$$
4. I could see doing the brake lines, ie pressure, but why the fuel lines?
Have you looked at all of the bends that have to be made? If you have an IO engine
= nightmare.
Good luck,
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Duran
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 12:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
I am considering using stainless steel tubing for the rigid fuel lines on my
7. Yeah I know there are hundreds of RV's and thousands of other planes flying
around out there with aluminum lines, but I thought it would be fun and educational
to use SS, help my TIG welding skills, etc....
Anyway, can anyone come up with any negatives to doing so?
Michael Duran
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wheel chocks |
Dave,
Go to your local Lowe's aviation store. In the metals stock dept. there is
some galvanized angle stock with oval holes vertically and horizontally cut
into it. Stock is used for garage door hangers. Strong, durable, cut to
whatever length that you want them, paint/powder coat to any color that you
want, drill a hole in them for a nylon rope to tie them together. About $4
for a 48" section. Easily can make 2 or 3 sets for you and your
buddies-nice present. Same stuff that you see for sale on various sites for
$25/set. Did I mention that they will fit under the wheel pants?
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bayne" <bjust(at)cox.net>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wheel chocks
>
> Hi David,
>
> I use the Koger wheel chocks on my RV-9A, they do the job.
>
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/koger-chocks.htm
>
> Bayne
> RV-9A N910BJ
> KSEE Gillespie Field
> San Diego
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 6:45 AM
> Subject: RV-List: wheel chocks
>
>
>>
>> I'm wondering what RVers are doing for wheel chocks when parking on a
>> ramp. At
>> some of the airports I've flown to, one in particular I'm met with a line
>> guy
>> wanting to kick the thick yellow chocks into my wheelpants, but
>> eventually
>> brings it back to the tailwheel. I've seen some plastic wedges
>> advertised
>> along with metal angle, but wondered if anyone's found the item to be the
>> ideal
>> thing for the RV.
>>
>>
>> Dave Ford
>> Cadillac, MI
>> RV6 flying 250 hrs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> 8:18 AM
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
BAD idea I think. In addition to being heavy, expensive and hard to work, stainless
lines are notorious for cracking because stainless work hardens much more
quickly than aluminum. It is best used in locations where heat is a factor and
movement isn't -such as fuel lines on turbine engines themselves (which are
formed by automated machines specially designed for the purpose and then stress-relieved).
NASA can't keep stainless lines from cracking on the shuttles. It's
a constant problem for them.
TIG welder? On fuel lines? Why? I own a TIG and have completed a flying RV and
I can't think of why welding would be used in this application.
A fuel system is no place to screw around. Use the accepted techniques -they
are in place because many people over many years have refined them, and determined
them best.
Scott Spencer
RV-4 and A&P mechanic for 20 years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Clocking the prop ? |
Just a little confused. I'm working on the prop spinner and mount and I
hear folks talking about clocking the prop. Bill Boyd read something and had
this to say:
"It says that a flat four engine will run more smoothly if the prop is
indexed to be in the same plane as the crank pins, meaning it is horizontal
when the pistons are at top or bottom dead center. This orientation is 60
degrees away from the indexing that is traditional for Lycomings, which is a
concession to ease of hand-propping.
Well, I tried it and it works. The difference in smoothness was noticable
from very first startup, and the engine is (subjectively) smoother at all
rpm ranges. The prop now stops at about 1 o'clock position viewed from the
front, as opposed to the traditional 10 o'clock position. "
Great, so now I am looking to mount my prop, New Hartzell BA on a O360.
When I look at the prop flange, there is only one bolt that is not recessed.
When I look at me crank flange, there are two bolts at 3 and 9 that will
accept the unrecessed bolt. That means that I can put the prop at 3 or 9
(same orientation) but no place else. The TC mark on my flywheel is at 1
o'clock and I don't see any way to clock anything given these two flanges?
Take a look.
Am I missing something? Is there just one way to put the prop on this
puppy?
Help appreciated.
Bill S
7a Ark sorta finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop ? |
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
>
> Just a little confused. I'm working on the prop spinner and mount and
> I hear folks talking about clocking the prop. Bill Boyd read something
> and had this to say:
>
> /"It says that a flat four engine will run more smoothly if the prop
> is indexed to be in the same plane as the crank pins, meaning it is
> horizontal when the pistons are at top or bottom dead center. This
> orientation is 60 degrees away from the indexing that is traditional
> for Lycomings, which is a concession to ease of hand-propping./
>
> /Well, I tried it and it works. The difference in smoothness was
> noticable from very first startup, and the engine is (subjectively)
> smoother at all rpm ranges. The prop now stops at about 1 o'clock
> position viewed from the front, as opposed to the traditional 10
> o'clock position. "/
>
> Great, so now I am looking to mount my prop, New Hartzell BA on a
> O360. When I look at the prop flange, there is only one bolt that is
> not recessed. When I look at me crank flange, there are two bolts at
> 3 and 9 that will accept the unrecessed bolt. That means that I can
> put the prop at 3 or 9 (same orientation) but no place else. The TC
> mark on my flywheel is at 1 o'clock and I don't see any way to clock
> anything given these two flanges? Take a look.
>
>
> <<...>> <<...>>
>
> Am I missing something? Is there just one way to put the prop on this
> puppy?
>
> Help appreciated.
>
> Bill S
> 7a Ark sorta finishing
>
Hi Bill,
There's a Lyc publication that describes how to re-clock the prop, but
I'd really have to do some digging to find it. You might find a
reference to it in the archives, or (probably fastest) just call Lyc. It
involves pressing out the crank flange bushings & moving (I think it
actually says to replace) the bushings so the prop will clock where you
want it.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wheel chocks |
I think I know which one's you are talking about, but wouldn't this
galvanized angle stock be way heavy???
----- Original Message -----
From: mike humphrey
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wheel chocks
Dave,
Go to your local Lowe's aviation store. In the metals stock dept.
there is
some galvanized angle stock with oval holes vertically and
horizontally cut
into it. Stock is used for garage door hangers. Strong, durable, cut
to
whatever length that you want them, paint/powder coat to any color
that you
want, drill a hole in them for a nylon rope to tie them together.
About $4
for a 48" section. Easily can make 2 or 3 sets for you and your
buddies-nice present. Same stuff that you see for sale on various
sites for
$25/set. Did I mention that they will fit under the wheel pants?
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bayne" <bjust(at)cox.net>
To:
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wheel chocks
>
> Hi David,
>
> I use the Koger wheel chocks on my RV-9A, they do the job.
>
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/koger-chocks.htm
>
> Bayne
> RV-9A N910BJ
> KSEE Gillespie Field
> San Diego
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 6:45 AM
> Subject: RV-List: wheel chocks
>
>
>>
>> I'm wondering what RVers are doing for wheel chocks when parking on
a
>> ramp. At
>> some of the airports I've flown to, one in particular I'm met with
a line
>> guy
>> wanting to kick the thick yellow chocks into my wheelpants, but
>> eventually
>> brings it back to the tailwheel. I've seen some plastic wedges
>> advertised
>> along with metal angle, but wondered if anyone's found the item to
be the
>> ideal
>> thing for the RV.
>>
>>
>> Dave Ford
>> Cadillac, MI
>> RV6 flying 250 hrs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> 8:18 AM
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Davis <rvpilot(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop ? |
I can vouch for the fact that this will make your engine run
noticably smoother. In order to do this , it is necessary to move
some crankshaft flange bushings around. It has been 4 or 5 years
since I did this but as I remember, I had to buy one or two new
bushings. One of those bushings is over size (to index the ring
gear) and I believe that that on has to be shorter so that it is
flush with the front face of the ring gear. They can be pressed out
or in by using bolt-nut-washer-various size socket combinations.
You have to check your engine parts manual for part numbers. If you
don't have one, i will try to help
Bill Davis
On Mar 1, 2008, at 5:31 PM, Bill Schlatterer wrote:
>
> Just a little confused. I'm working on the prop spinner and mount
> and I hear folks talking about clocking the prop. Bill Boyd read
> something and had this to say:
>
> "It says that a flat four engine will run more smoothly if the prop
> is indexed to be in the same plane as the crank pins, meaning it is
> horizontal when the pistons are at top or bottom dead center. This
> orientation is 60 degrees away from the indexing that is
> traditional for Lycomings, which is a concession to ease of hand-
> propping.
>
> Well, I tried it and it works. The difference in smoothness was
> noticable from very first startup, and the engine is (subjectively)
> smoother at all rpm ranges. The prop now stops at about 1 o'clock
> position viewed from the front, as opposed to the traditional 10
> o'clock position. "
>
> Great, so now I am looking to mount my prop, New Hartzell BA on a
> O360. When I look at the prop flange, there is only one bolt that
> is not recessed. When I look at me crank flange, there are two
> bolts at 3 and 9 that will accept the unrecessed bolt. That means
> that I can put the prop at 3 or 9 (same orientation) but no place
> else. The TC mark on my flywheel is at 1 o'clock and I don't see
> any way to clock anything given these two flanges? Take a look.
>
>
> <<...>> <<...>>
>
> Am I missing something? Is there just one way to put the prop on
> this puppy?
>
> Help appreciated.
>
> Bill S
> 7a Ark sorta finishing
>
> <100_4383.jpg><100_4382.jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop ? |
Yup, looking at the pics of your prop flange, I'd say you're screwed.
Seriously, it seems they don't want you indexing the prop any way but their
way, Bill.
I went back to conventional indexing at the same time I had my prop balanced
by Sensenich in Pennsylvania a few years ago... the re-indexing seemed to
help smoothness some, but there is no doubt that dynamic balancing did the
most, even with the return to conventional prop orientation at the same
time, and now I can hand-prop if I need to, like the time I left the master
on all night in Cody, WY and Ben Burrill played human starter for me :-)
while I held a 9 volt transistor battery across the battery contactor to
give a bit of precious juice to the P-Mags and some more to the alternator
field winding.
My testimonial in the archives about indexing is therefore a bit dated.
Don't tell John Schwaner at Sac Sky Ranch, but I've since moved back onto
the reservation - my prop is again indexed the same way as everyone else's
;-)
-Bill Boyd
On Sat, Mar 1, 2008 at 5:31 PM, Bill Schlatterer <
billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> Just a little confused. I'm working on the prop spinner and mount and I
> hear folks talking about clocking the prop. Bill Boyd read something and had
> this to say:
>
> *"It says that a flat four engine will run more smoothly if the prop is
> indexed to be in the same plane as the crank pins, meaning it is horizontal
> when the pistons are at top or bottom dead center. This orientation is 60
> degrees away from the indexing that is traditional for Lycomings, which is a
> concession to ease of hand-propping.*
>
> *Well, I tried it and it works. The difference in smoothness was
> noticable from very first startup, and the engine is (subjectively) smoother
> at all rpm ranges. The prop now stops at about 1 o'clock position viewed
> from the front, as opposed to the traditional 10 o'clock position. "*
>
> Great, so now I am looking to mount my prop, New Hartzell BA on a O360.
> When I look at the prop flange, there is only one bolt that is not
> recessed. When I look at me crank flange, there are two bolts at 3 and 9
> that will accept the unrecessed bolt. That means that I can put the prop at
> 3 or 9 (same orientation) but no place else. The TC mark on my flywheel is
> at 1 o'clock and I don't see any way to clock anything given these two
> flanges? Take a look.
>
> <<...>> <<...>>
>
> Am I missing something? Is there just one way to put the prop on this
> puppy?
>
> Help appreciated.
>
> Bill S
> 7a Ark sorta finishing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Removing pad mounted alternator |
Hello all.
I have a B&N SD-20 direct drive alternator which is mounted on the vacuum accessory
pad on an IO-360.
The alternator has apparently failed.
Three of the nuts holding the alternator are relatively easy to get to.
However, the lower inner nut is well hidden and as far as I can tell impossible
to reach.
Does anyone have a tip on how to removed this vacuum pad nut without pulling the
engine?
Maybe a special tool?
Thanks for the help.
Jeff Bertsch
RV-4
Houston
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop ? |
Why not call Lycoming and your prop manufacturer just to make sure your not introducing
some sort of dangerous harmonic into the situation. Of course they will
say don't do it so you will have to read between the lines.
Scott
----- Original Message ----
From: William Davis <rvpilot(at)embarqmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 1, 2008 5:10:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop ?
I can vouch for the fact that this will make your engine run noticably smoother.
In order to do this , it is necessary to move some crankshaft flange bushings
around. It has been 4 or 5 years since I did this but as I remember, I had
to buy one or two new bushings. One of those bushings is over size (to index
the ring gear) and I believe that that on has to be shorter so that it is flush
with the front face of the ring gear. They can be pressed out or in by using
bolt-nut-washer-various size socket combinations.
You have to check your engine parts manual for part numbers. If you don't have
one, i will try to help
Bill Davis
On Mar 1, 2008, at 5:31 PM, Bill Schlatterer wrote:
Just a little confused. I'm working on the prop spinner and mount and I hear folks
talking about clocking the prop. Bill Boyd read something and had this to
say:
"It says that a flat four engine will run more smoothly if the prop is indexed
to be in the same plane as the crank pins, meaning it is horizontal when the pistons
are at top or bottom dead center. This orientation is 60 degrees away
from the indexing that is traditional for Lycomings, which is a concession to
ease of hand-propping.
Well, I tried it and it works. The difference in smoothness was noticable from
very first startup, and the engine is (subjectively) smoother at all rpm ranges.
The prop now stops at about 1 o'clock position viewed from the front, as
opposed to the traditional 10 o'clock position. "
Great, so now I am looking to mount my prop, New Hartzell BA on a O360. When I
look at the prop flange, there is only one bolt that is not recessed. When I
look at me crank flange, there are two bolts at 3 and 9 that will accept the
unrecessed bolt. That means that I can put the prop at 3 or 9 (same orientation)
but no place else. The TC mark on my flywheel is at 1 o'clock and I don't
see any way to clock anything given these two flanges? Take a look.
<<...>> <<...>>
Am I missing something? Is there just one way to put the prop on this puppy?
Help appreciated.
Bill S
7a Ark sorta finishing
<100_4383.jpg><100_4382.jpg>
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Clocking the prop ? |
See, that's what you get when you save everything ;-) I think it will just
go on as is and worry later if there is a problem.
Thanks Bill S
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Boyd
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop ?
Yup, looking at the pics of your prop flange, I'd say you're screwed.
Seriously, it seems they don't want you indexing the prop any way but their
way, Bill.
I went back to conventional indexing at the same time I had my prop balanced
by Sensenich in Pennsylvania a few years ago... the re-indexing seemed to
help smoothness some, but there is no doubt that dynamic balancing did the
most, even with the return to conventional prop orientation at the same
time, and now I can hand-prop if I need to, like the time I left the master
on all night in Cody, WY and Ben Burrill played human starter for me :-)
while I held a 9 volt transistor battery across the battery contactor to
give a bit of precious juice to the P-Mags and some more to the alternator
field winding.
My testimonial in the archives about indexing is therefore a bit dated.
Don't tell John Schwaner at Sac Sky Ranch, but I've since moved back onto
the reservation - my prop is again indexed the same way as everyone else's
;-)
-Bill Boyd
On Sat, Mar 1, 2008 at 5:31 PM, Bill Schlatterer
wrote:
Just a little confused. I'm working on the prop spinner and mount and I
hear folks talking about clocking the prop. Bill Boyd read something and had
this to say:
"It says that a flat four engine will run more smoothly if the prop is
indexed to be in the same plane as the crank pins, meaning it is horizontal
when the pistons are at top or bottom dead center. This orientation is 60
degrees away from the indexing that is traditional for Lycomings, which is a
concession to ease of hand-propping.
Well, I tried it and it works. The difference in smoothness was noticable
from very first startup, and the engine is (subjectively) smoother at all
rpm ranges. The prop now stops at about 1 o'clock position viewed from the
front, as opposed to the traditional 10 o'clock position. "
Great, so now I am looking to mount my prop, New Hartzell BA on a O360.
When I look at the prop flange, there is only one bolt that is not recessed.
When I look at me crank flange, there are two bolts at 3 and 9 that will
accept the unrecessed bolt. That means that I can put the prop at 3 or 9
(same orientation) but no place else. The TC mark on my flywheel is at 1
o'clock and I don't see any way to clock anything given these two flanges?
Take a look.
<<...>> <<...>>
Am I missing something? Is there just one way to put the prop on this
puppy?
Help appreciated.
Bill S
7a Ark sorta finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wheel chocks |
Dave,
You're only going to use a 4" to 6" section, and there are so many holes
already cut into it, it couldn't be lighter. The whole 48"x1 1/2"x 1
1/2" piece doesn't weigh more than 3lbs, if that much. Try it-it's
cheap. A spray can of Rustoleum Florescent Bright Yellow would be good.
Very noticeable.
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Konrad L. Werner
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wheel chocks
I think I know which one's you are talking about, but wouldn't this
galvanized angle stock be way heavy???
----- Original Message -----
From: mike humphrey
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wheel chocks
Dave,
Go to your local Lowe's aviation store. In the metals stock dept.
there is
some galvanized angle stock with oval holes vertically and
horizontally cut
into it. Stock is used for garage door hangers. Strong, durable,
cut to
whatever length that you want them, paint/powder coat to any color
that you
want, drill a hole in them for a nylon rope to tie them together.
About $4
for a 48" section. Easily can make 2 or 3 sets for you and your
buddies-nice present. Same stuff that you see for sale on various
sites for
$25/set. Did I mention that they will fit under the wheel pants?
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bayne" <bjust(at)cox.net>
To:
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: wheel chocks
>
> Hi David,
>
> I use the Koger wheel chocks on my RV-9A, they do the job.
>
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/koger-chocks.htm
>
> Bayne
> RV-9A N910BJ
> KSEE Gillespie Field
> San Diego
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 6:45 AM
> Subject: RV-List: wheel chocks
>
>
>>
>> I'm wondering what RVers are doing for wheel chocks when parking
on a
>> ramp. At
>> some of the airports I've flown to, one in particular I'm met
with a line
>> guy
>> wanting to kick the thick yellow chocks into my wheelpants, but
>> eventually
>> brings it back to the tailwheel. I've seen some plastic wedges
>> advertised
>> along with metal angle, but wondered if anyone's found the item
to be the
>> ideal
>> thing for the RV.
>>
>>
>> Dave Ford
>> Cadillac, MI
>> RV6 flying 250 hrs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> 8:18 AM
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> nbsp; Navigator Photoshare, and
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
nbsp; via the Web
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
nbsp; generous bsp;
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop ? |
Mike Stewart did the deed on his super RV-8. Read about it here:
http://www.mstewart.net/super8/propclock/index.htm
Ron Schreck
RV-8, "Miss Izzy"
Gold Hill Airpark, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Hooper" <krhooper(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing pad mounted alternator |
Rapco makes a special wrench for remove and replace of the vacuum pump. It
is a pretty common tool you might be able to borrow locally.
Randy Hooper
On Sat, Mar 1, 2008 at 9:45 PM, Jeff Bertsch wrote:
> Hello all.
> I have a B&N SD-20 direct drive alternator which is mounted on the vacuum
> accessory pad on an IO-360.
> The alternator has apparently failed.
> Three of the nuts holding the alternator are relatively easy to get to.
> However, the lower inner nut is well hidden and as far as I can tell
> impossible to reach.
> Does anyone have a tip on how to removed this vacuum pad nut without
> pulling the engine?
> Maybe a special tool?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Jeff Bertsch
> RV-4
> Houston
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing pad mounted alternator |
I was able to get a wrench on it by removing the right side magneto.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
Jeff Bertsch wrote:
> Hello all.
> I have a B&N SD-20 direct drive alternator which is mounted on the
> vacuum accessory pad on an IO-360.
> The alternator has apparently failed.
> Three of the nuts holding the alternator are relatively easy to get to.
> However, the lower inner nut is well hidden and as far as I can tell
> impossible to reach.
> Does anyone have a tip on how to removed this vacuum pad nut without
> pulling the engine?
> Maybe a special tool?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Jeff Bertsch
> RV-4
> Houston
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop - 3-blade ? |
I am willing to believe that clocking the (2-blade) prop makes a
difference, though I am at a loss to understand why. It must have some
explanation in the dynamics - very small flexure in something occurring
on each power pulse or something like that.
But I have a Catto wooden 3-blade prop (not flying yet). Are there any
clocking issues with a 3-blade?
Presumably the more blades, the less it matters. Also, the total
moment inertia of the wooden prop (17 lbs and 3" shorter blades) is much
less than the moment of the metal 2-blade, so I'm guessing it's not an
issue. Can any of you Catto users confirm this?
Thanks,
--
Tom S., RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Mader" <davemader(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
Any comments on stainless fuel lines for my primer system? I have a primer
set-up like vans sells where you T off the carburetor and run an 1/8 fuel
line to a solenoid switch which in turn primes 2 cylinders. I had a bad
situation a few years ago on my 6 in which I my fuel pressure was dropping,
I turned on my electric fuel pump, and it helped the situation. What I
didn't realize was that the primer line had cracked, and I was pumping fuel
right down on my exhaust. I noticed an increase in the fuel smell but the
pressure was up and I continued on. Luckily, I was only a few miles from
home. I have since bought stainless fuel lines and fittings to replace
these lines but haven't installed them yet. Would stainless be o.k. in this
situation? Since my engine starts fine, should I just forget it?
Dave Mader
RV6-flying-
RV-4 90% done ;-)
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of SCOTT SPENCER
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
BAD idea I think. In addition to being heavy, expensive and hard to work,
stainless lines are notorious for cracking because stainless work hardens
much more quickly than aluminum. It is best used in locations where heat is
a factor and movement isn't -such as fuel lines on turbine engines
themselves (which are formed by automated machines specially designed for
the purpose and then stress-relieved). NASA can't keep stainless lines from
cracking on the shuttles. It's a constant problem for them.
TIG welder? On fuel lines? Why? I own a TIG and have completed a flying RV
and I can't think of why welding would be used in this application.
A fuel system is no place to screw around. Use the accepted techniques -they
are in place because many people over many years have refined them, and
determined them best.
Scott Spencer
RV-4 and A&P mechanic for 20 years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sheldon barrett" <sheldonb(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
I had copper lines on a primer system on my 6A... couple times the lines
broke... FORGET that!... I then removed the entire system... Engine
starts fine..(pump throttle while cranking)... Elimated a potential
problem/system... On hot starts... learned to: leave throttle pulled
shut, start cranking..slowly push mixture in... starts when the engine
likes the mixture... every time...Otherwise, if I give it any prime
(throttle) it'll flood..
Sheldon 6A 485 hours 0-360..
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Mader
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 8:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
Any comments on stainless fuel lines for my primer system? I have a
primer set-up like vans sells where you T off the carburetor and run an
1/8 fuel line to a solenoid switch which in turn primes 2 cylinders. I
had a bad situation a few years ago on my 6 in which I my fuel pressure
was dropping, I turned on my electric fuel pump, and it helped the
situation. What I didn't realize was that the primer line had cracked,
and I was pumping fuel right down on my exhaust. I noticed an increase
in the fuel smell but the pressure was up and I continued on. Luckily, I
was only a few miles from home. I have since bought stainless fuel
lines and fittings to replace these lines but haven't installed them
yet. Would stainless be o.k. in this situation? Since my engine starts
fine, should I just forget it?
Dave Mader
RV6-flying-
RV-4 90% done ;-)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of SCOTT SPENCER
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 10:43 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
BAD idea I think. In addition to being heavy, expensive and hard to
work, stainless lines are notorious for cracking because stainless work
hardens much more quickly than aluminum. It is best used in locations
where heat is a factor and movement isn't -such as fuel lines on turbine
engines themselves (which are formed by automated machines specially
designed for the purpose and then stress-relieved). NASA can't keep
stainless lines from cracking on the shuttles. It's a constant problem
for them.
TIG welder? On fuel lines? Why? I own a TIG and have completed a
flying RV and I can't think of why welding would be used in this
application.
A fuel system is no place to screw around. Use the accepted techniques
-they are in place because many people over many years have refined
them, and determined them best.
Scott Spencer
RV-4 and A&P mechanic for 20 years.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
Dave,
Why not use SS braided fuel line instead of a hard line? It's already
rated for high pressure, easier to work with, AN fittings, can readily
get it in any size that you need-primer line is 4 I believe.
Mike H 9A/8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Mader
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 10:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
Any comments on stainless fuel lines for my primer system? I have a
primer set-up like vans sells where you T off the carburetor and run an
1/8 fuel line to a solenoid switch which in turn primes 2 cylinders. I
had a bad situation a few years ago on my 6 in which I my fuel pressure
was dropping, I turned on my electric fuel pump, and it helped the
situation. What I didn't realize was that the primer line had cracked,
and I was pumping fuel right down on my exhaust. I noticed an increase
in the fuel smell but the pressure was up and I continued on. Luckily, I
was only a few miles from home. I have since bought stainless fuel
lines and fittings to replace these lines but haven't installed them
yet. Would stainless be o.k. in this situation? Since my engine starts
fine, should I just forget it?
Dave Mader
RV6-flying-
RV-4 90% done ;-)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of SCOTT SPENCER
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 10:43 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stainless Steel Fuel Line
BAD idea I think. In addition to being heavy, expensive and hard to
work, stainless lines are notorious for cracking because stainless work
hardens much more quickly than aluminum. It is best used in locations
where heat is a factor and movement isn't -such as fuel lines on turbine
engines themselves (which are formed by automated machines specially
designed for the purpose and then stress-relieved). NASA can't keep
stainless lines from cracking on the shuttles. It's a constant problem
for them.
TIG welder? On fuel lines? Why? I own a TIG and have completed a
flying RV and I can't think of why welding would be used in this
application.
A fuel system is no place to screw around. Use the accepted techniques
-they are in place because many people over many years have refined
them, and determined them best.
Scott Spencer
RV-4 and A&P mechanic for 20 years.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
In a message dated 3/2/2008 7:57:45 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
davemader(at)bresnan.net writes:
Any comments on stainless fuel lines for my primer system? I have a primer
set-up like vans sells where you T off the carburetor and run an 1/8 fuel
line to a solenoid switch which in turn primes 2 cylinders.
=======================================
IMO this is a good use of SS and it makes the primer system more robust at
the small diameter.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 887hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Reel" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
2006 RV8A 50hr. Has O-360-A1A, Hartzell c/s prop, Dynon D10 EFIS,
Garmin transponder and GPS, Grand Rapids engine information system.
High reliability, VFR, all new parts. Illness forcing sale. Based at
HEF, Manassas VA. Call 703-385-9811 or email dreel(at)cox.net for pictures
& questions.
Sorry to have to start this event but please let anyone you know that
might be interested in buying a nice RV8A.
Dave Reel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop - 3-blade ? |
Well, I can reply to my own posting in this case. I had also sent an
email about clocking to Craig Catto when I posted to the list, but was
not optimistic about receiving a reply any time soon. Craig replied
within a couple hours!
Craig says that wood props are less sensitive to clocking than metal and
3-blades less sensitive than 2-blade - generally. Sometimes clocking
does make a difference with a wooden prop. It's all a matter of
harmonics. He has no recommended clocking for the 3-blade wooden prop,
but says if you sense any enhanced vibration at some rpm range, it is
worth trying to rotate it one-hole to see if it helps.
tom sargent wrote:
>
> I am willing to believe that clocking the (2-blade) prop makes a
> difference, though I am at a loss to understand why. It must have some
> explanation in the dynamics - very small flexure in something occurring
> on each power pulse or something like that.
>
> But I have a Catto wooden 3-blade prop (not flying yet). Are there
> any clocking issues with a 3-blade?
>
> Presumably the more blades, the less it matters. Also, the total
> moment inertia of the wooden prop (17 lbs and 3" shorter blades) is much
> less than the moment of the metal 2-blade, so I'm guessing it's not an
> issue. Can any of you Catto users confirm this?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop ? |
Bill:
You can just not worry about it & install you prop like
99% of all the planes's do or play bushing switch
and "clock" the prop to the 3 & 9 position, v. the std
1 & 7 position (view from cockpit) clocking. May I
suggest you install it as is and be happy? Yes there
is a difference in vibration, apparently mostly at high
rpm and power. You don't eliminate all vibration but
you do move it's freq range around. Most people who
fly before & after clocking are happy, but we are not
talking earth shaking differences (no pun). People
who balanced prop before/after, measure vibration
do note a lower vib on their vibration meter. It varies
with prop, engine.
The point is will your back side feel the difference.
It is probably worth it but you will have to decide
and switch bushings.
Make some calls (Hartzell/Lycoming) and decide.
Be careful removing & bushings.
George
>From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
>Subject: RV-List: Clocking the prop ?
>
>Just a little confused. I'm working on the prop spinner and
>mount and I hear folks talking about clocking the prop. Bill
>Boyd read something and had this to say:
>
>"It says that a flat four engine will run more smoothly if the
>prop is indexed to be in the same plane as the crank pins,
>meaning it is horizontal when the pistons are at top or
>bottom dead center. This orientation is 60 degrees away
>from the indexing that is traditional for Lycomings, which
>is a concession to ease of hand-propping."
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Clocking the prop - 3-blade ? |
In a message dated 03/02/2008 8:49:10 AM Central Standard Time,
sarg314(at)comcast.net writes:
Can any of you Catto users confirm this?
I tried a re-clock on my Catto 3-blade during early testing as an experiment
by shifting it one hole. Not a major difference, but it did seem to shift
from 90% smooth to maybe 95%, but then again, that may have been a placebo reward
for my efforts.
Much more importantly, be sure to wait until final paint is on the spinner,
then decide what to do- after painting I picked up a noticeable vibration
around 1900 rpm, most apparent when reducing power, that I hadn't noticed before.
One dynamic balance session later, it was running much to my satisfaction, and
remains so after nearly 475 hours...
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Fuel Line |
In a message dated 03/02/2008 9:58:12 AM Central Standard Time,
davemader(at)bresnan.net writes:
Since my engine starts fine, should I just forget it?
When this has come up before, the folks living in the Great White North tend
to support primers. In areas where you normally don't have to shovel the
airplane out of the hangar, it may not be necessary. My carbed -320 starts very
easily even on frigid mornings (35-40 degrees in the hangar) by just giving the
throttle a couple of shots of accelerator pump WHILE the engine is cranking.
My used engine was liberated from a Cherokee and came with copper primer
lines hooked to 3 cylinders. I plumbed them to my MAP sensor, which saved me
plugging into the port on #3 and removing the old lines and plugging the holes.
I
must say I kinda prefer less gasoline arteries wrapped around the engine.
Now if you plan on visiting Lake Woebegon for ice-fishing and leave the plane
tied down on the lake, ya might need a shot of pre-heat before firin' that
muthu up...
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wheeler North" <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
Load on the propeller is not symetrical as the blades travel around the
circumfrence, and the crankshaft is subjected to accelerating and
decelerating loads as it spins around. The phase of these is tested for
certified prop/engine combinations at the design indexing, but it likely is
not tested at other indexing combinations.
Just because it is smoother to your butt does not mean it is smooother to
your engine, or to engine parts within.
You takes your chances when using alternate indexing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
I learned about this from the IAC Arco list. Any more news from the
RV fliers in the area?
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
"I was informed that Phil Schadt ( sp ?) was Killed today in an RV
inFL... FOXNEWS.com has more info. He was taxiing in to a pancake
breakfast and another a/c landed on his machine...Both in his a/c were killed."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
>
> I learned about this from the IAC Arco list. Any more news from the
> RV fliers in the area?
>
> Bob
> RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
>
>
Go to vanairforce and there is a thread there with an eyewitness account.
The RV guys apparently had no chance to escape their fate.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Bob wrote:
>
> I learned about this from the IAC Arco list. Any more news from the RV
> fliers in the area?
Quite a bit of info with links to local news video on the VAF forum.
Three confirmed fatalities at this point. Very sad.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop indexing |
Lycoming factory told me to have at it with indexing if I wanted to; they
had no concerns with it.
-Bill / Stormy
On Mon, Mar 3, 2008 at 9:44 AM, Wheeler North wrote:
>
> Load on the propeller is not symetrical as the blades travel around the
> circumfrence, and the crankshaft is subjected to accelerating and
> decelerating loads as it spins around. The phase of these is tested for
> certified prop/engine combinations at the design indexing, but it likely
> is
> not tested at other indexing combinations.
>
> Just because it is smoother to your butt does not mean it is smooother to
> your engine, or to engine parts within.
>
> You takes your chances when using alternate indexing.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Bob wrote:
>
> I learned about this from the IAC Arco list. Any more news from the
> RV fliers in the area?
>
> Bob
> RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
>
>
> "I was informed that Phil Schadt ( sp ?) was Killed today in an RV
> inFL... FOXNEWS.com has more info. He was taxiing in to a pancake
> breakfast and another a/c landed on his machine...Both in his a/c were
> killed."
Our flight to Arthur Dunn was diverted because the airport was closed.
Chuck Durbeck from X59 took the attached pictures. I didn't read the
VAF account, so some may be wrong info. The Velocity was landing behind
other aircraft and was overrunning aircraft on the runway. The velocity
initiated a go-around, but was unsuccessful, left the runway on the
right side and clipped the RV-8 that was on the exit taxiway. the wing
from the Velocity sliced through the cockpit of the RV8, which is where
the occuppants died. The Velocity continued in the grass between the
runway and parallel taxiway, coming to rest inverted, and on fire. Both
occupants of the Velocity were severely burned, and the passenger
succomed in the hospital. the last word I have is that the pilot (from
Sebastian, FL) is still alive in critical condition. Truly a sad day,
indeed.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop indexing |
At 09:44 AM 3/3/2008, you wrote:
>
><<your engine, or to engine parts within.>>>
>
>You takes your chances when using alternate indexing.
Wheeler,
I have heard this several times before over the past 12 years on the
list. Several knowledgeable pros have said the same thing. Propeller
engineering
is a science of its own, and usually should be left to pros. I can
give many of you a good example. My RV-4, with it's IO-360, Hartzell
C/S prop happens to run smoothest (to my butt) at 20-21" manifold
pressure and 2100-2300 RPM !! Those of you with my prop know that
this RPM range is prohibited/ restricted because it produces a
vibration mode that causes permanent and additive damage to the prop.
You can't see it, and common sense and "butt feel" would never lead
you to suspect this damage is occurring.
I would love to reduce the vibration of my IO-360, but I would only
go with proven methods such as dynamic balancing and improved engine
mounts, or any other proven-to-be-safe method.
I lost my first RV-4 from a broken prop due to a bird strike. That's scarry.
Don't mean to preach. Just passing along precautions to the list.
Louis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop indexing |
I thought I sent this to the list, but it seems I just clicked 'reply'
to an off-list email from Bill.
Anyway, here's the word from Lycoming, for those who are understandably
worried about deviating from the norm with props:
copied message:
If you get motivated to spend the extra time & money, the Lyc 'Service
Instruction' is on this page of the Lycoming web site (I got lucky):
> http://www.lycoming.com/support/publications/service-instructions/index.jsp
>
The document subject is 'Propeller Flange Bushing location':
> http://www.lycoming.com/support/publications/service-instructions/pdfs/SI1098G.pdf
>
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jblake43(at)bellsouth.net |
| Subject: | trade mag synchronizer |
I have , used in good condition, an Eastern magneto synchronizer and a US Tools
differential cylinder pressure tester.
I need a ratcheting crimper with BNC dies (rg-58 and rg-400) and a 4 way indent
crimper for d-sub machine pins ( similar to those sold by Stein air). If you
would like to trade, Pease email me directly.
Jim Blake
jblake43(at)bellsouth.net
I have , used in good condition, an Eastern magneto synchronizer and a US
Tools differential cylinder pressure tester.
I need a ratcheting crimper with BNC dies (rg-58 and rg-400) and a 4 way indent
crimper for d-sub machine pins ( similar to those sold by Stein air). If
you would like to trade, Pease email me directly.
Jim Blake
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: trade mag synchronizer |
In a message dated 3/3/2008 8:09:03 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
jblake43(at)bellsouth.net writes:
I need a ratcheting crimper with BNC dies (rg-58 and rg-400) and a 4 way
indent crimper for d-sub machine pins ( similar to those sold by Stein air). If
you would like to trade, Pease email me directly.
====================================================
Jim-
I have several M22520/2-01 hand crimpers that I would consider selling, but
no positioners. I do have the Daniels catalog at work to determine which
positioner you need for the dsubs.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 887hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop indexing |
| From: | Michael W Stewart <mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com> |
Some information you might find useful with regards to indexing.
This was my experience with real data. In fact lots of data.
Enjoy,
Mike
http://mstewart.net/super8/propclock/index.htm
"Wheeler North"
To
Sent by:
owner-rv-list-ser
cc
ver(at)matronics.com
Subj
ect
RV-List: Prop indexing
03/03/2008 09:44
AM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
Load on the propeller is not symetrical as the blades travel around the
circumfrence, and the crankshaft is subjected to accelerating and
decelerating loads as it spins around. The phase of these is tested for
certified prop/engine combinations at the design indexing, but it likel
y is
not tested at other indexing combinations.
Just because it is smoother to your butt does not mean it is smooother
to
your engine, or to engine parts within.
You takes your chances when using alternate indexing.
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
________________________________________________________________________________
Saw this on another list. I've got an ACK E-01 in both my RV and Navion. I'm
going to look for a way to safety wire the antenna to the tray or remove it.
Regards,
Greg Young
>
> By the way, I've mentioned it before, I've written letters
> with pictures to the FAA and to Ameriking-
>
> If you have an Ameriking AK-450 ELT installed, REMOVE the
> auxiliary antenna from the unit NOW.
> Put it in a zippered pocket or secure it some other way. I
February 08, 2008 - March 04, 2008
RV-Archive.digest.vol-th