RV-Archive.digest.vol-tp
- - - , 20- - August 23, 2008
of date. excessive heat and time will screwup proseal still in the can.
since this is a quick build with only 5 hrs on it. i would be requesting two
new tanks since the other was probably built with the same bad proseal. and
a payment for the cost of painting. remember all of the material for the q
biuld are shipped ocean cargo to the pi. and without climate controlls on
the container. it is quite possible that the material saw in excess of 150
degrees inside the container.
please tell us what happens, if vans does not stand behind thier q builds it
might be a good time to have the local faa give them a chat.
i have repaired more of this type of tank then you can shake a stick at, so
call me if you have to do it yourself. be happy to help with advice.
ps
i am replacing the bonded doublers on a exec helicopter rotor blades right
now , it is my thought that the epoxy used was probably out of date and
failed as a result. having way to much fun removing it.
rick miller
559-270-7113
a+p, i/a
--- On Sun, 8/3/08, Doug Morrison <rv8a.doug@net-lynx.com> wrote:
| Subject: | Re: Leaking QB Tanks |
Gentlemen,
This problem is not just related to the relatively new quick-build tanks.
Last week I found the same problem with one of the fuel tanks on an RV-4
(1993) I recently purchased. The previous owner (original builder) repaired
a small leak in the tank a few years ago and is very confident that the
pro-seal he applied was done correctly. We were both very surprised to find
most of the pro-seal on the lower portion of the tank soft and gooey. The
pro-seal on the upper portion of the tank is still hard. Another local
builder had the same problem with one of his -8 QB tanks. It appears that
this is a somewhat common problem on tanks that have been leaking for an
extended period of time. I found the following comments on another RV list:
The proseal on my lhs wing inner rib has gone totally sticky [can smear it
off with a finger] after flying with a leaking tank for 2 months. The wings
are quickbuilt and the inspection cover was leaking. Avgas has leaked onto
the factory applied proseal on the bottom of the inner rib. [just below the
cover]
I queried this with Vans and they said that the blue dye in avgas and oxygen
cause the proseal to soften. I cannot argue with them, but they couldnt
explain why this happened.
The proseal that did not have fuel leaking on it is ok.
I know I should have attended to the leak sooner, but flying was more
important at the time. Had I known I would have taken care of it sooner.
What I still dont understand is why the proseal went totally soft. Can
anyone explain ??
Gus at Vans said that there are no fuel fumes on the outside of the tank, so
as the fuel drips onto the proseal, it evaporates and leaves the blue dye
behind. This will lead to the proseal becoming soft and sticky and resembles
uncured proseal. At least this is how I understand it.
I asked how its possible because it is a fuel sealer, and he said they are
not quite sure.
Basically they say its my fault, [which I wont dispute as the inspection
cover had weeped fuel for 2 months] ,but i still would like a technical
explanation why this happened.[ie why the proseal softened]
Either way I have to sort it out.
It is the bead of proseal from the leading edge to the rear spar on the
outside of the inner rib that has gone soft.
I've seen this on a re-seal job that was done on our Cessna Cardinal. I
scraped it all out of our tanks and reapplied with new/good proseal. That is
NOT normal, don't believe Van's on this one.
Vans has been promising to speak to their supplier to get me the facts. I
have been patiently waiting for a answer ,but none yet. The clearly told me
they mixed it correctly and that it was my fault it went soft.[fuel shouldnt
leak on it]
I dont want to make a issue about it, but feel a bit short changed at the
moment. Vans has always been great about sorting out issues. I wonder why
they are avoiding this one ??
As I said before, if its my fault ,so be it. However everyone I speak to
says its not, and Vans doesnt seem to agree.
My plan is to gently scrape & wipe off the soft stuff, scratch up the
aluminum surface, and re-apply fresh pro-seal I purchased from Van's.
Regards,
Doug Morrison
RV-4 (N818WW)
RV-8A (N666NJ Reserved) (In the process of converting to a -8)
Larry Pardue wrote:
"mailto:n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com" \n
On Aug 3, 2008, at 3:09 PM, James H Nelson wrote:
"mailto:rv9jim(at)juno.com" \n
List:
I have a QB RV9-A and I have a leaking left tank. The unusual part is-
the pro seal is softening with the 100LL. On the spar end of the last
rib, the leak begins about half the way down and around the bottom and
almost to the leading edge. The pro seal is soft enough to act like
grease. You can wipe it from the aluminum skin. Not firm and stiff
like it is suppose to...Has any others had the same problem?
Exactly what happened to my quick-build tank. Pictures here HYPERLINK
"http:///" \nhttp:// HYPERLINK
"http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=26159&highlight=seal
ant"
\nwww.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=26159&highlight=sealant
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
D========================
=========
Checked by AVG.
12:00 PM
Checked by AVG.
12:00 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Leaking QB Tanks |
I'm not disputing what you're saying, but it seems rather out of line for a
fuel sealer to not work with mogas. I'm sure lots of RVs are flying with
all or partial mogas.
I guess I'd better test this, as I plan to use mogas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leaking QB Tanks
Any chance mogas was used in any of these tanks? I've seen Proseal reduced
to jelly/peanut butter by mogas.
Doug Morrison wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> This problem is not just related to the relatively new quick-build
> tanks. Last week I found the same problem with one of the fuel tanks
> on an RV-4 (1993) I recently purchased. The previous owner (original
> builder) repaired a small leak in the tank a few years ago and is very
> confident that the pro-seal he applied was done correctly. We were
> both very surprised to find most of the pro-seal on the lower portion
> of the tank soft and gooey. The pro-seal on the upper portion of the
> tank is still hard. Another local builder had the same problem with
> one of his -8 QB tanks. It appears that this is a somewhat common
> problem on tanks that have been leaking for an extended period of
> time. I found the following comments on another RV list:
>
> The proseal on my lhs wing inner rib has gone totally sticky [can
> smear it off with a finger] after flying with a leaking tank for 2
> months. The wings are quickbuilt and the inspection cover was leaking.
> Avgas has leaked onto the factory applied proseal on the bottom of the
> inner rib. [just below the cover] I queried this with Vans and they
> said that the blue dye in avgas and oxygen cause the proseal to
> soften. I cannot argue with them, but they couldnt explain why this
> happened.
> The proseal that did not have fuel leaking on it is ok.
> I know I should have attended to the leak sooner, but flying was more
> important at the time. Had I known I would have taken care of it sooner.
> What I still dont understand is why the proseal went totally soft. Can
> anyone explain ??
>
> Gus at Vans said that there are no fuel fumes on the outside of the
> tank, so as the fuel drips onto the proseal, it evaporates and leaves
> the blue dye behind. This will lead to the proseal becoming soft and
> sticky and resembles uncured proseal. At least this is how I
> understand it.
> I asked how its possible because it is a fuel sealer, and he said they
> are not quite sure.
> Basically they say its my fault, [which I wont dispute as the
> inspection cover had weeped fuel for 2 months] ,but i still would like
> a technical explanation why this happened.[ie why the proseal
> softened] Either way I have to sort it out.
> It is the bead of proseal from the leading edge to the rear spar on
> the outside of the inner rib that has gone soft.
>
> I've seen this on a re-seal job that was done on our Cessna Cardinal.
> I scraped it all out of our tanks and reapplied with new/good proseal.
> That is NOT normal, don't believe Van's on this one.
>
> Vans has been promising to speak to their supplier to get me the
> facts. I have been patiently waiting for a answer ,but none yet. The
> clearly told me they mixed it correctly and that it was my fault it
> went soft.[fuel shouldnt leak on it] I dont want to make a issue about
> it, but feel a bit short changed at the moment. Vans has always been
> great about sorting out issues. I wonder why they are avoiding this
> one ??
> As I said before, if its my fault ,so be it. However everyone I speak
> to says its not, and Vans doesnt seem to agree.
>
>
> My plan is to gently scrape & wipe off the soft stuff, scratch up the
> aluminum surface, and re-apply fresh pro-seal I purchased from Van's.
>
> Regards,
>
> Doug Morrison
>
> RV-4 (N818WW)
> RV-8A (N666NJ Reserved) (In the process of converting to a -8)
>
>
> Larry Pardue wrote:
>> -->
>>
>>
>> On Aug 3, 2008, at 3:09 PM, James H Nelson wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> List:
>>> I have a QB RV9-A and I have a leaking left tank. The unusual part
>>> is-
>>> the pro seal is softening with the 100LL. On the spar end of the
>>> last rib, the leak begins about half the way down and around the
>>> bottom and almost to the leading edge. The pro seal is soft enough
>>> to act like grease. You can wipe it from the aluminum skin. Not
>>> firm and stiff like it is suppose to...Has any others had the same
problem?
>>
>> Exactly what happened to my quick-build tank. Pictures here http://
>> www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=26159&highlight=seala
>> nt
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
Checked by AVG.
12:00 PM
Checked by AVG.
12:00 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking QB Tanks |
John,
I think you mean polysulfide not polysulfate.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cox
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 10:33 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Leaking QB Tanks
Repeating something posted a long time ago. ProSeal is a trademarked nam
e and is often generically used in conversation to identify tank sealant(mu
ch like Scotch Tape or Kleenex). The product is PolySulfate Thixotrophic.
Most of the stuff Van's sells is sealant but is not ProSeal. ProSeal come
s in scores of product viscosities of A, B and C and various temperature an
d adhesion formulations (which are numbered).
When Kelly mentions proseal turning to putty, it was probably Flamemaster
and was not formulated for MOGAS. I am confident I can find a Desoto "Pro
Seal" T which can withstand MOGAS. I will do some research and do a trial
on the stuff.
There has been poor reporting on what products will hold up to MOGAS.
Fixing a leaking tank is a serious enough issue to get to the root and re
mediate.
John Cox
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@mat
ronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Morrison
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 7:37 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leaking QB Tanks
List,
I'll use Richard's message to answer his and John's, Kelly's, & Kevin's.
Remember the comment in red below are from a Vansairforce.net thread. They
are not my comments.
1) Use of a plastic scraper and MEK to remove the soft pro-seal sounds li
ke a good idea.
2) I am fairly confident that oil additives and mogas have never been use
d in my -4 (circa 1993) or my friends -8 QB. The only commonality is that t
he tanks were leaking for an extended period of time.
3) The previous owner of my -4 is fairly confident that the pro-seal he u
sed was fresh and mixed in the proper ratio.
4) The pro-seal on the QB tanks of the -8A I have under construction is f
ull cured. Only time will tell if the pro-seal will soften up when exposed
to fuel in the tank.
5) I am very satisfied with the workmanship of my -8A QB. If the tanks be
gin to leak due to outdated pro-seal used at the time of manufacturer, I wi
ll fix the problem and move on. Of course I will advise Van's of the proble
m so they can revise their manufacture procedure and hopefully prevent the
problem in the future. To be safe, I will probably fill the tanks with fuel
(with the tanks off the wing) and let them sit for a few months before I b
egin painting and final assembly. Any leaks or pro-seal softening should sh
ow up during that time.
As far as I am concerned, the -8A kit is a real bargain, even with the in
evitable anomalies. Each of you will have to decide if you want to press th
e issue with Van's. Personally, I am prepared to accept a few minor problem
s and just move on. Also, getting the FAA involved would be the last thing
I would do.
Thanks for everyone's comments.
Regards,
Doug Morrison
RICHARD MILLER wrote:
proseal applied and cured per the spec does not disolve with 100ll.
so what happened.
are you using marvel mystry oil. or any other fuel additive.
if not i would have to think that the proseal was stored improperl
y or out of date. excessive heat and time will screwup proseal still in th
e can. since this is a quick build with only 5 hrs on it. i would be reques
ting two new tanks since the other was probably built with the same bad pro
seal. and a payment for the cost of painting. remember all of the material
for the q biuld are shipped ocean cargo to the pi. and without climate cont
rolls on the container. it is quite possible that the material saw in exces
s of 150 degrees inside the container.
please tell us what happens, if vans does not stand behind thier q
builds it might be a good time to have the local faa give them a chat.
i have repaired more of this type of tank then you can shake a stic
k at, so call me if you have to do it yourself. be happy to help with advic
e.
ps
i am replacing the bonded doublers on a exec helicopter rotor blade
s right now , it is my thought that the epoxy used was probably out of date
and failed as a result. having way to much fun removing it.
rick miller
559-270-7113
a+p, i/a
--- On Sun, 8/3/08, Doug Morrison <rv8a.doug@net-lynx.com> wrote:
From: Doug Morrison <rv8a.doug@net-lynx.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leaking QB Tanks
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, August 3, 2008, 4:41 PM
Gentlemen,
This problem is not just related to the relatively new quick-buil
d tanks. Last week I found the same problem with one of the fuel tanks on a
n RV-4 (1993) I recently purchased. The previous owner (original builder) r
epaired a small leak in the tank a few years ago and is very confident that
the pro-seal he applied was done correctly. We were both very surprised to
find most of the pro-seal on the lower portion of the tank soft and gooey.
The pro-seal on the upper portion of the tank is still hard. Another local
builder had the same problem with one of his -8 QB tanks. It appears that
this is a somewhat common problem on tanks that have been leaking for an ex
tended period of time. I found the following comments on another RV list:
The proseal on my lhs wing inner rib has gone totally sticky [can
smear it off with a finger] after flying with a leaking tank for 2 months.
The wings are quickbuilt and the inspection cover was leaking. Avgas has l
eaked onto the factory applied proseal on the bottom of the inner rib. [jus
t below the cover]
I queried this with Vans and they said that the blue dye in avgas
and oxygen cause the proseal to soften. I cannot argue with them, but they
couldnt explain why this happened.
The proseal that did not have fuel leaking on it is ok.
I know I should have attended to the leak sooner, but flying was
more important at the time. Had I known I would have taken care of it soone
r.
What I still dont understand is why the proseal went totally soft
. Can anyone explain ??
Gus at Vans said that there are no fuel fumes on the outside of t
he tank, so as the fuel drips onto the proseal, it evaporates and leaves th
e blue dye behind. This will lead to the proseal becoming soft and sticky a
nd resembles uncured proseal. At least this is how I understand it.
I asked how its possible because it is a fuel sealer, and he said
they are not quite sure.
Basically they say its my fault, [which I wont dispute as the ins
pection cover had weeped fuel for 2 months] ,but i still would like a techn
ical explanation why this happened.[ie why the proseal softened]
Either way I have to sort it out.
It is the bead of proseal from the leading edge to the rear spar
on the outside of the inner rib that has gone soft.
I've seen this on a re-seal job that was done on our Cessna Cardi
nal. I scraped it all out of our tanks and reapplied with new/good proseal.
That is NOT normal, don't believe Van's on this one.
Vans has been promising to speak to their supplier to get me the
facts. I have been patiently waiting for a answer ,but none yet. The clearl
y told me they mixed it correctly and that it was my fault it went soft.[fu
el shouldnt leak on it]
I dont want to make a issue about it, but feel a bit short change
d at the moment. Vans has always been great about sorting out issues. I won
der why they are avoiding this one ??
As I said before, if its my fault ,so be it. However everyone I s
peak to says its not, and Vans doesnt seem to agree.
My plan is to gently scrape & wipe off the soft stuff, scratch up
the aluminum surface, and re-apply fresh pro-seal I purchased from Van's.
Regards,
Doug Morrison
RV-4 (N818WW)
RV-8A (N666NJ Reserved) (In the process of converting to a -8)
Larry Pardue wrote:
.com>
On Aug 3, 2008, at 3:09 PM, James H Nelson wrote:
List:
I have a QB RV9-A and I have a leaking left tank. The unusual pa
rt is-
the pro seal is softening with the 100LL. On the spar end of the
last
rib, the leak begins about half the way down and around the botto
m and
almost to the leading edge. The pro seal is soft enough to act l
ike
grease. You can wipe it from the aluminum skin. Not firm and s
tiff
like it is suppose to...Has any others had the same problem?
Exactly what happened to my quick-build tank. Pictures here http:
// www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=26159&highlight=seal
ant
href="3D%22http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List%22">http://www.m
atronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp
://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking QB Tanks |
John,
What I was writing about was an older Mooney that had an older product
number ProSeal used in the 1961-mid-seventies models before they
switched to the current product numbers. I would agree that it wasn't
formulated for mogas, as there was little incentive to use mogas when it
only cost 20-30 cents less than 80/87 or 100/130. That version was pink
in color, with a reddish brown top coat. Most of the current product
I've seen is gray in color(after mixing).
I'm sure that current variety is much more resistant, as they had to
formulate to resist high aromatic concentrations that most gasoline
formulas, av or mo have in them today. I'm as mystified as the rest on
the problem these quick build tanks are showing.
Kelly
John Cox wrote:
>
> Repeating something posted a long time ago. ProSeal is a trademarked
> name and is often generically used in conversation to identify tank
> sealant(much like Scotch Tape or Kleenex). The product is PolySulfate
> Thixotrophic. Most of the stuff Van's sells is sealant but is not
> ProSeal. ProSeal comes in scores of product viscosities of A, B and C
> and various temperature and adhesion formulations (which are numbered).
>
>
>
> When Kelly mentions proseal turning to putty, it was probably
> Flamemaster and was not formulated for MOGAS. I am confident I can
> find a Desoto "ProSeal" ^(TM) which can withstand MOGAS. I will do
> some research and do a trial on the stuff.
>
>
>
> There has been poor reporting on what products will hold up to MOGAS.
>
>
>
> Fixing a leaking tank is a serious enough issue to get to the root and
> remediate.
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Finch" <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Leaking QB Tanks |
My only experience with aircraft tanks is Ercoupes. In that world they can
be sloshed or welded. More and more are getting them welded to avoid any
problems with sealant. Is that feasible with RV tanks?
Ralph Finch
Davis, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Leaking QB Tanks |
No sir -
RV tanks are skinned with 2024-T3.
Not a weldable alloy.
neal
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph Finch
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 7:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Leaking QB Tanks
My only experience with aircraft tanks is Ercoupes. In that world they can
be sloshed or welded. More and more are getting them welded to avoid any
problems with sealant. Is that feasible with RV tanks?
Ralph Finch
Davis, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McMahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV Fly-In (M54) Lebanon,Tn |
Just to inform every one that we are having again this year our RV
Fly-In
at M54 Lebanon,Tn which is about 20 miles east of Nashville,Tn..Sept
20th
and Mike Seager will be here again Sept 19,20,and 21st with the RV7....
You can E-Mail me and I will try to put you on the list...There are 6
slots a day
and some are gone already...
Thanks
John McMahon (RV6 180/CS)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Ramona, CA RV-6A N51LW for sale |
Socal RVators-
Does anyone have intimate knowledge of this plane based at Ramona, CA?
Apparently it was finished by Leonard Wilhelm in 1994 in Kansas and it is now
owned by Neal Farinholt My Cessna 140 flying buddy is interested and we would
like to know if this plane is a good quality construct, before we make the
trip down there to see for ourselves.
Please respond to me directly.
_vanremog(at)aol.com_ (mailto:vanremog(at)aol.com)
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 898hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Leaking QB Tanks |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Tim,
I got my response from Van's and it is the same. The accumulated
dye, from evaporation, causes the break down of the sealant when it is
exposed to oxygen from the leaks. Having been in the chemical industry
(sort of) the dye's that are used are often oil based. I was confused
on the first indications of the "blue stuff". It felt like grease and
acted like it. Now, having stood back from the problem, the
accumulation of dye can have a degrading effect on the "Proseal". My
previous aircraft have all used mogas so I was not in the "blue" mode
when the leaks occurred. I now have to remove the cover and put some new
Proseal inside to stop the leaks. Van's also reminded me to use Proseal
on the cover and a bit on the screws to seal it back up. Van's does not
use the cork gaskets on their planes. Just enough to squeeze out upon
tightening the screws. Not squeezed enough to get cover to tank contact.
They say that if you need to remove the cover, the ole putty knife will
'POP' it off.
Jim
____________________________________________________________
Looking for insurance? Click to compare and save big.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m275YMXfHXPsBxyocOYnO6M0VzgrhIdNYeInezT2i1AOgtF/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Cochran" <jerry2dt(at)aol.com> |
I had to remove both fuel senders and reseal so am testing for integrity. The instructions
for testing with a manometer are saying either 2 to 3 inches diff
in water levels or 2 feet 3 inches, can't tell which. Before bothering Van's and
displaying my ignorance anyone here know the answer for sure? I'd rather not
blow my tanks apart, ya know...
Thanks all,
Jerry
Oh, BTW... I would never, repeat NEVER use the supplied rubber gaskets again.
I could not figure out why I'd never get a drip on the hangar floor but mysterious
fuel streaks down the belly. My hangar mate pointed out that at speed the
fuel vents can slightly pressurize the tanks. Fact or fiction? You decide. I took
senders out, slathered proseal and replaced. Hopefully fixed.
Edit/Delete Message
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196662#196662
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Leaking QB Tanks |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Brian,
I guess there should be an item on our check list to put fuel in
the tanks (100LL) for about a week prior to close up and check for leaks.
That way we find any leaks and can stop the exposure of the Proseal to
the dye on the outside of the tank. The tank only needs to have enough
fuel to cover the root rib. Then leaks can be found before you put the
wings on.
Jim
N15JN
____________________________________________________________
Click here to find a massage therapy school near you.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3l9deVZIrV8iEpet2FyycrmxVUDl3rErcmB92aT7o5tABXtB/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
Listers,
Well, the trim tab came out perfect and I'm really pleased with the
mating to the Elevator. That being said, I'm less than pleased with
the for/aft alignment of the Trim Tab. The Trim Tab hangs past the
Elevator trailing edge by about 1/8" of an inch. It is 1/8" along
the whole distance of the Trim Tab. In looking at the cause, it
appears that the skins are all cut such that you are suppose to use
the roundy part of the hinge and not the square cutout when aligning
the hinge for drilling. This would account for 1/16" on each side
and would add up to the 1/8" overhang I'm seeing. Grrrrrr....
What should I do, fellow builders? I could drill out all the rivets
and use a new hinge, and I'm certainly not opposed to that. But am I
making too big a deal out of the whole thing? Or is everyone gonna
look at it forever and go, "Hey, how come your trim take is too long?" :-(
Bummed Out in Livermore
Matt
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
Hi Bummed out in Livermore,
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 2:56 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment...
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Well, the trim tab came out perfect and I'm really pleased with the
> mating to the Elevator. That being said, I'm less than pleased with
> the for/aft alignment of the Trim Tab. The Trim Tab hangs past the
> Elevator trailing edge by about 1/8" of an inch. It is 1/8" along
> the whole distance of the Trim Tab. In looking at the cause, it
> appears that the skins are all cut such that you are suppose to use
> the roundy part of the hinge and not the square cutout when aligning
> the hinge for drilling. This would account for 1/16" on each side
> and would add up to the 1/8" overhang I'm seeing. Grrrrrr....
>
> What should I do, fellow builders? I could drill out all the rivets
> and use a new hinge, and I'm certainly not opposed to that. But am I
> making too big a deal out of the whole thing? Or is everyone gonna
> look at it forever and go, "Hey, how come your trim take is too long?"
[Tim]
I wouldn't probably even notice. Do you have the intended hinge pin in
there?
It looks like there is not an alignment of the loops between the two
halves as
If you had a skinny hinge pin in. Would be easy enough to change the hinge
if
you felt the need, but it wouldn't be noticeable to me. If this was the
worse of
your sins when it was all said and done, it would be a champion.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 100 hours now
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alden D. Van Winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Testing |
Jerry
The differential is 2 ft 3 inches which equates to approx one PSI. This is
what I used for my RV-9A tanks and worked very well. Even with one PSI, you
will see a small amount of skin deflection between the tank ribs while
pressurized. Also be aware that the differential is very sensitive to
temperature changes, even if you have no leaks.
Dean Van Winkle
dvanwinkle(at)royell.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Cochran" <jerry2dt(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 11:52 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tank Testing
>
> I had to remove both fuel senders and reseal so am testing for integrity.
The instructions for testing with a manometer are saying either 2 to 3
inches diff in water levels or 2 feet 3 inches, can't tell which. Before
bothering Van's and displaying my ignorance anyone here know the answer for
sure? I'd rather not blow my tanks apart, ya know...
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Jerry
>
> Oh, BTW... I would never, repeat NEVER use the supplied rubber gaskets
again.
> I could not figure out why I'd never get a drip on the hangar floor but
mysterious fuel streaks down the belly. My hangar mate pointed out that at
speed the fuel vents can slightly pressurize the tanks. Fact or fiction? You
decide. I took senders out, slathered proseal and replaced. Hopefully fixed.
> Edit/Delete Message
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196662#196662
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
Are you sure you've got the right size pin in there? The loops don't look
like they align right. After that, just set it aside until the end of the
project and then see how you feel about it. It's pretty minor and your F-it
factor changes over time;-)
Regards,
Greg Young
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 2:56 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment...
>
>
> Listers,
>
> Well, the trim tab came out perfect and I'm really pleased
> with the mating to the Elevator. That being said, I'm less
> than pleased with the for/aft alignment of the Trim Tab. The
> Trim Tab hangs past the Elevator trailing edge by about 1/8"
> of an inch. It is 1/8" along the whole distance of the Trim
> Tab. In looking at the cause, it appears that the skins are
> all cut such that you are suppose to use the roundy part of
> the hinge and not the square cutout when aligning the hinge
> for drilling. This would account for 1/16" on each side and
> would add up to the 1/8" overhang I'm seeing. Grrrrrr....
>
> What should I do, fellow builders? I could drill out all the
> rivets and use a new hinge, and I'm certainly not opposed to
> that. But am I making too big a deal out of the whole thing?
> Or is everyone gonna look at it forever and go, "Hey, how
> come your trim take is too long?" :-(
>
> Bummed Out in Livermore
>
> Matt
> RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Testing |
You better have a quality regulator to ensure you only put one PSI in the
tank. You can damage the tank with three PSI.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alden D. Van Winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.org>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Testing
>
>
> Jerry
>
> The differential is 2 ft 3 inches which equates to approx one PSI. This
> is
> what I used for my RV-9A tanks and worked very well. Even with one PSI,
> you
> will see a small amount of skin deflection between the tank ribs while
> pressurized. Also be aware that the differential is very sensitive to
> temperature changes, even if you have no leaks.
>
> Dean Van Winkle
> dvanwinkle(at)royell.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Cochran" <jerry2dt(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 11:52 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Tank Testing
>
>
>>
>> I had to remove both fuel senders and reseal so am testing for integrity.
> The instructions for testing with a manometer are saying either 2 to 3
> inches diff in water levels or 2 feet 3 inches, can't tell which. Before
> bothering Van's and displaying my ignorance anyone here know the answer
> for
> sure? I'd rather not blow my tanks apart, ya know...
>>
>> Thanks all,
>>
>> Jerry
>>
>> Oh, BTW... I would never, repeat NEVER use the supplied rubber gaskets
> again.
>> I could not figure out why I'd never get a drip on the hangar floor but
> mysterious fuel streaks down the belly. My hangar mate pointed out that at
> speed the fuel vents can slightly pressurize the tanks. Fact or fiction?
> You
> decide. I took senders out, slathered proseal and replaced. Hopefully
> fixed.
>> Edit/Delete Message
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196662#196662
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Testing |
Jerry,
Here's some info on testing the tanks...including the relationship
between temperature and pressure:
http://www.our7a.com/20070911.html
Good luck!
Mike
Jerry Cochran wrote:
>
> I had to remove both fuel senders and reseal so am testing for integrity. The
instructions for testing with a manometer are saying either 2 to 3 inches diff
in water levels or 2 feet 3 inches, can't tell which. Before bothering Van's
and displaying my ignorance anyone here know the answer for sure? I'd rather
not blow my tanks apart, ya know...
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Jerry
>
> Oh, BTW... I would never, repeat NEVER use the supplied rubber gaskets again.
> I could not figure out why I'd never get a drip on the hangar floor but mysterious
fuel streaks down the belly. My hangar mate pointed out that at speed the
fuel vents can slightly pressurize the tanks. Fact or fiction? You decide. I
took senders out, slathered proseal and replaced. Hopefully fixed.
> Edit/Delete Message
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196662#196662
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
That's so minor that you are the only one that will ever notice it.
Functionally it makes no difference whatever. Keep it as is, continue
building and if it really bugs you change it after you get the plane in the
air....some things are not worth fretting about, and this seems to one of
them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy E. Cone" <tcone1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Testing |
STOP!!!! Do not hook your tank up to ANY pressure source...I don't care
what kind of regulator you have. Fuel tanks and compressed gasses do not go
together.
----- Original Message -----
From: "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Testing
>
> You better have a quality regulator to ensure you only put one PSI in the
> tank. You can damage the tank with three PSI.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alden D. Van Winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.org>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 3:52 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Testing
>
>
>>
>>
>> Jerry
>>
>> The differential is 2 ft 3 inches which equates to approx one PSI. This
>> is
>> what I used for my RV-9A tanks and worked very well. Even with one PSI,
>> you
>> will see a small amount of skin deflection between the tank ribs while
>> pressurized. Also be aware that the differential is very sensitive to
>> temperature changes, even if you have no leaks.
>>
>> Dean Van Winkle
>> dvanwinkle(at)royell.org
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Jerry Cochran" <jerry2dt(at)aol.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 11:52 AM
>> Subject: RV-List: Tank Testing
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I had to remove both fuel senders and reseal so am testing for
>>> integrity.
>> The instructions for testing with a manometer are saying either 2 to 3
>> inches diff in water levels or 2 feet 3 inches, can't tell which. Before
>> bothering Van's and displaying my ignorance anyone here know the answer
>> for
>> sure? I'd rather not blow my tanks apart, ya know...
>>>
>>> Thanks all,
>>>
>>> Jerry
>>>
>>> Oh, BTW... I would never, repeat NEVER use the supplied rubber gaskets
>> again.
>>> I could not figure out why I'd never get a drip on the hangar floor but
>> mysterious fuel streaks down the belly. My hangar mate pointed out that
>> at
>> speed the fuel vents can slightly pressurize the tanks. Fact or fiction?
>> You
>> decide. I took senders out, slathered proseal and replaced. Hopefully
>> fixed.
>>> Edit/Delete Message
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196662#196662
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ronburnett(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
Matt,
You did an excellent job. I've redone several things on my RV-6A QB and am still
not flying after 8 years. As I tell my friends, I strain at knats and swallow
camels.
I would press on with the next step.
Ron Burnett
---- Matt Dralle wrote:
============
Listers,
Well, the trim tab came out perfect and I'm really pleased with the
mating to the Elevator. That being said, I'm less than pleased with
the for/aft alignment of the Trim Tab. The Trim Tab hangs past the
Elevator trailing edge by about 1/8" of an inch. It is 1/8" along
the whole distance of the Trim Tab. In looking at the cause, it
appears that the skins are all cut such that you are suppose to use
the roundy part of the hinge and not the square cutout when aligning
the hinge for drilling. This would account for 1/16" on each side
and would add up to the 1/8" overhang I'm seeing. Grrrrrr....
What should I do, fellow builders? I could drill out all the rivets
and use a new hinge, and I'm certainly not opposed to that. But am I
making too big a deal out of the whole thing? Or is everyone gonna
look at it forever and go, "Hey, how come your trim take is too long?" :-(
Bummed Out in Livermore
Matt
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Ice <aurbo(at)ak.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
Matt,
Looks good. Don't dwell on the small stuff you will never get done.
Mike Ice
RV-9, DAR inspection this weekend, test flight soon after
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 5, 2008 11:57 am
Subject: RV-List: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment...
>
> Listers,
>
> Well, the trim tab came out perfect and I'm really pleased with
> the
> mating to the Elevator. That being said, I'm less than pleased
> with
> the for/aft alignment of the Trim Tab. The Trim Tab hangs past
> the
> Elevator trailing edge by about 1/8" of an inch. It is 1/8" along
> the whole distance of the Trim Tab. In looking at the cause, it
> appears that the skins are all cut such that you are suppose to
> use
> the roundy part of the hinge and not the square cutout when
> aligning
> the hinge for drilling. This would account for 1/16" on each side
> and would add up to the 1/8" overhang I'm seeing. Grrrrrr....
>
> What should I do, fellow builders? I could drill out all the
> rivets
> and use a new hinge, and I'm certainly not opposed to that. But
> am I
> making too big a deal out of the whole thing? Or is everyone
> gonna
> look at it forever and go, "Hey, how come your trim take is too
> long?" :-(
>
> Bummed Out in Livermore
>
> Matt
> RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Another Fuel Question |
I have a strong fuel odor in the cabin of my new RV8 which occurs only during
climb attitude. Straight and level, descending and on the ground, there's no gas
odor. I've gone over the entire fuel system (wing tanks, vent system, fuel
selector valve, boost pump connections, gascolator, fuel pressure transducer,
carb connections, mechanical pump connections, etc). I've found a few very small
"weeping" connections which have been corrected, but the fuel smell is still
there. I have also checked for blue streaks throughout the plane and don't see
any.
Any help with this annoying problem will sure be appreciated.
Thanks,
Walt Shipley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
Hi Matt how you doing?
BTW the trim is very seldom aligned perfectly when you are parked so
most likely we would
have never known except now you have told us. :-)
Jerry
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> Well, the trim tab came out perfect and I'm really pleased with the
> mating to the Elevator. That being said, I'm less than pleased with
> the for/aft alignment of the Trim Tab. The Trim Tab hangs past the
> Elevator trailing edge by about 1/8" of an inch. It is 1/8" along the
> whole distance of the Trim Tab. In looking at the cause, it appears
> that the skins are all cut such that you are suppose to use the roundy
> part of the hinge and not the square cutout when aligning the hinge
> for drilling. This would account for 1/16" on each side and would add
> up to the 1/8" overhang I'm seeing. Grrrrrr....
>
> What should I do, fellow builders? I could drill out all the rivets
> and use a new hinge, and I'm certainly not opposed to that. But am I
> making too big a deal out of the whole thing? Or is everyone gonna
> look at it forever and go, "Hey, how come your trim take is too
> long?" :-(
>
> Bummed Out in Livermore
>
> Matt
> RV-8 #82880
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Testing |
Thanx Dean,
Using 27" overnite as we speak. Lookinf good so far...
Jerry
In a message dated 8/5/2008 1:55:30 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dvanwinkle(at)royell.org writes:
Jerry
The differential is 2 ft 3 inches which equates to approx one PSI. This is
what I used for my RV-9A tanks and worked very well. Even with one PSI, you
will see a small amount of skin deflection between the tank ribs while
pressurized. Also be aware that the differential is very sensitive to
temperature changes, even if you have no leaks.
Dean Van Winkle
dvanwinkle(at)royell.org
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaking QB Tanks |
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> On 3 Aug 2008, at 20:50, RICHARD MILLER wrote:
>
>> please tell us what happens, if vans does not stand behind thier q
>> builds it might be a good time to have the local faa give them a chat.
>>
>
> These are not type-certificated aircraft, so FAR 39 (Airworthiness
> Directives) does not apply. If the local FAA wanted to talk to Van's
> about this, which FAR subparagraph should they discuss?
>
> --
> Kevin Horton
> RV-8 (FInal Assembly)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Agreed on the legal points, but isn't the stuff Van supplies FAA
approved for type-cert aircraft? I'm torn between being astounded and
not surprised at all that the FAA would have nothing to say about an
approved sealant that is dissolved by one of the components that it's
certified to seal against.
For each RV with a minor fuel leak expanding into a major one, there
would be hundreds if not thousands of type cert a/c with the same issue.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Another Fuel Question |
Hey Walt=2C
I had a similar thing=2C found a loose and weeping screw in the fuel sender
access plate. Good luck=2C
Paul Rice
RV8
Flying Siren> Date: Tue=2C 5 Aug 2008 20:50:50 -0400> From: rveighta@earthl
ink.net> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV-List: Another Fuel Question
ave a strong fuel odor in the cabin of my new RV8 which occurs only during
climb attitude. Straight and level=2C descending and on the ground=2C there
's no gas odor. I've gone over the entire fuel system (wing tanks=2C vent s
ystem=2C fuel selector valve=2C boost pump connections=2C gascolator=2C fue
l pressure transducer=2C carb connections=2C mechanical pump connections=2C
etc). I've found a few very small "weeping" connections which have been co
rrected=2C but the fuel smell is still there. I have also checked for blue
streaks throughout the plane and don't see any. > > Any help with this anno
==> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine 'first' start |
Folks,
My list of things to do before engine start is getting small and I think it is
time to consider letting the dragon breathe some fire.....
I have an Aerosport Power IO360B1F6 (AFP injection, LASAR mags) with a MT three
blade prop.
I have the Lycoming manual page for their cold engine start procedures and I have
incorporated that in to my engine cold start checklist:
Alt air - off
Prop - high RPM
Fuel valve - select tank
Purge valve - run
Master - on
Fuel boost pump - on
Throttle - full open
Mixture - rich until fuel flow is noted on guage
Throttle - Idle
Mixture - lean
Fuel boost pump - off
Throttle to 1/4
Clear prop
Ignition switch - START
Mixture - to rich smoothly while cranking
Ignition switch - both when engine fires
Have any of you found that you need to deviate from these instructions in order
to get consistent starts?
Thanks for any input,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Engine 'first' start |
No, but make sure you remove a top plug from each cylinder and crank the
engine until you get an oil pressure reading before your first start.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
Folks,
My list of things to do before engine start is getting small and I think it
is time to consider letting the dragon breathe some fire.....
I have an Aerosport Power IO360B1F6 (AFP injection, LASAR mags) with a MT
three blade prop.
I have the Lycoming manual page for their cold engine start procedures and I
have incorporated that in to my engine cold start checklist:
Alt air - off
Prop - high RPM
Fuel valve - select tank
Purge valve - run
Master - on
Fuel boost pump - on
Throttle - full open
Mixture - rich until fuel flow is noted on guage
Throttle - Idle
Mixture - lean
Fuel boost pump - off
Throttle to 1/4
Clear prop
Ignition switch - START
Mixture - to rich smoothly while cranking
Ignition switch - both when engine fires
Have any of you found that you need to deviate from these instructions in
order to get consistent starts?
Thanks for any input,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine 'first' start |
Thanks Bruce - I have done that - although my intent was to make sure there were
no obvious oil leaks - I got an oil pressure reading for 'free'.......
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bruce Gray <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
>Sent: Aug 6, 2008 9:40 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
>No, but make sure you remove a top plug from each cylinder and crank the
>engine until you get an oil pressure reading before your first start.
>
>Bruce
>www.Glasair.org
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:14 AM
>To: rv-list; lycoming engine list
>Subject: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
>Folks,
>
>My list of things to do before engine start is getting small and I think it
>is time to consider letting the dragon breathe some fire.....
>
>I have an Aerosport Power IO360B1F6 (AFP injection, LASAR mags) with a MT
>three blade prop.
>
>I have the Lycoming manual page for their cold engine start procedures and I
>have incorporated that in to my engine cold start checklist:
>
>Alt air - off
>Prop - high RPM
>Fuel valve - select tank
>Purge valve - run
>Master - on
>Fuel boost pump - on
>Throttle - full open
>Mixture - rich until fuel flow is noted on guage
>Throttle - Idle
>Mixture - lean
>Fuel boost pump - off
>Throttle to 1/4
>Clear prop
>Ignition switch - START
>Mixture - to rich smoothly while cranking
>Ignition switch - both when engine fires
>
>Have any of you found that you need to deviate from these instructions in
>order to get consistent starts?
>
>Thanks for any input,
>Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine 'first' start |
Not sure if you mean for all cold starts, or just your very first start.
If it is for routine cold starts, you could eliminate some steps. Unless
the AFP operates very different from the RSA, throttle position has
nothing to do with priming. Just running rich mixture until fuel flow
probably isn't enough prime. I use 5 seconds or more of boost pump on my
IO-360 powered Mooney.
One other hint. Let the engine sit for 30-60 seconds after you prime it
before you crank. Lets the liquid fuel become vapor.
I don't know, but suspect the purge valve does nothing on a cold engine.
I think you will find that you can eliminate some of your items, as they
will always be in the correct position from shutdown.
Hot starts.........that's another discussion.
If it is your very first start...as suggested, leave 4 plugs out, and
crank engine until you have good oil pressure. Then put plugs back in,
and do normal cold start.
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> My list of things to do before engine start is getting small and I think it is
time to consider letting the dragon breathe some fire.....
>
> I have an Aerosport Power IO360B1F6 (AFP injection, LASAR mags) with a MT three
blade prop.
>
> I have the Lycoming manual page for their cold engine start procedures and I
have incorporated that in to my engine cold start checklist:
>
> Alt air - off
> Prop - high RPM
> Fuel valve - select tank
> Purge valve - run
> Master - on
> Fuel boost pump - on
> Throttle - full open
> Mixture - rich until fuel flow is noted on guage
> Throttle - Idle
> Mixture - lean
> Fuel boost pump - off
> Throttle to 1/4
> Clear prop
> Ignition switch - START
> Mixture - to rich smoothly while cranking
> Ignition switch - both when engine fires
>
> Have any of you found that you need to deviate from these instructions in order
to get consistent starts?
>
> Thanks for any input,
> Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Engine 'first' start |
You want to do it no longer than 30 minutes before your first ever engine
start.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
Thanks Bruce - I have done that - although my intent was to make sure there
were no obvious oil leaks - I got an oil pressure reading for 'free'.......
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bruce Gray <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
>Sent: Aug 6, 2008 9:40 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
>No, but make sure you remove a top plug from each cylinder and crank
>the engine until you get an oil pressure reading before your first
>start.
>
>Bruce
>www.Glasair.org
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:14 AM
>To: rv-list; lycoming engine list
>Subject: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
>Folks,
>
>My list of things to do before engine start is getting small and I
>think it is time to consider letting the dragon breathe some fire.....
>
>I have an Aerosport Power IO360B1F6 (AFP injection, LASAR mags) with a
>MT three blade prop.
>
>I have the Lycoming manual page for their cold engine start procedures
>and I have incorporated that in to my engine cold start checklist:
>
>Alt air - off
>Prop - high RPM
>Fuel valve - select tank
>Purge valve - run
>Master - on
>Fuel boost pump - on
>Throttle - full open
>Mixture - rich until fuel flow is noted on guage
>Throttle - Idle
>Mixture - lean
>Fuel boost pump - off
>Throttle to 1/4
>Clear prop
>Ignition switch - START
>Mixture - to rich smoothly while cranking
>Ignition switch - both when engine fires
>
>Have any of you found that you need to deviate from these instructions
>in order to get consistent starts?
>
>Thanks for any input,
>Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine 'first' start |
Good point - I'll do it again right before I do the first start.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bruce Gray <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
>Sent: Aug 6, 2008 10:37 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
>You want to do it no longer than 30 minutes before your first ever engine
>start.
>
>Bruce
>www.Glasair.org
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:58 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
>Thanks Bruce - I have done that - although my intent was to make sure there
>were no obvious oil leaks - I got an oil pressure reading for 'free'.......
>
>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Bruce Gray <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
>>Sent: Aug 6, 2008 9:40 AM
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>>
>>
>>No, but make sure you remove a top plug from each cylinder and crank
>>the engine until you get an oil pressure reading before your first
>>start.
>>
>>Bruce
>>www.Glasair.org
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>>Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:14 AM
>>To: rv-list; lycoming engine list
>>Subject: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>>
>>
>>
>>Folks,
>>
>>My list of things to do before engine start is getting small and I
>>think it is time to consider letting the dragon breathe some fire.....
>>
>>I have an Aerosport Power IO360B1F6 (AFP injection, LASAR mags) with a
>>MT three blade prop.
>>
>>I have the Lycoming manual page for their cold engine start procedures
>>and I have incorporated that in to my engine cold start checklist:
>>
>>Alt air - off
>>Prop - high RPM
>>Fuel valve - select tank
>>Purge valve - run
>>Master - on
>>Fuel boost pump - on
>>Throttle - full open
>>Mixture - rich until fuel flow is noted on guage
>>Throttle - Idle
>>Mixture - lean
>>Fuel boost pump - off
>>Throttle to 1/4
>>Clear prop
>>Ignition switch - START
>>Mixture - to rich smoothly while cranking
>>Ignition switch - both when engine fires
>>
>>Have any of you found that you need to deviate from these instructions
>>in order to get consistent starts?
>>
>>Thanks for any input,
>>Ralph
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Finch" <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Engine 'first' start |
After it starts, what's your intention? I assume it needs to be broken in,
and the various procedures I've seen don't include much ground time running.
Ralph Finch
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 6:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
Folks,
My list of things to do before engine start is getting small and I think it
is time to consider letting the dragon breathe some fire.....
I have an Aerosport Power IO360B1F6 (AFP injection, LASAR mags) with a MT
three blade prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine 'first' start |
Ralph,
You're correct, it only has a few hours on it from the factory running. I'm only
planning to check for leaks and make sure both mags are firing properly - won't
be much ground running time right from the get go.
I still need to season the brakes with a couple of taxi runs and make sure I can
get fuel flow for climbout time at climbout attitude - I'm thinking that the
fuel flow can be done by pointing the nose at climbing attitude and running the
boost pump - shouldn't need the engine running.
More thoughts.....
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Ralph Finch <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us>
>Sent: Aug 6, 2008 12:11 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
>After it starts, what's your intention? I assume it needs to be broken in,
>and the various procedures I've seen don't include much ground time running.
>
>Ralph Finch
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 6:14 AM
>To: rv-list; lycoming engine list
>Subject: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
>Folks,
>
>My list of things to do before engine start is getting small and I think it
>is time to consider letting the dragon breathe some fire.....
>
>I have an Aerosport Power IO360B1F6 (AFP injection, LASAR mags) with a MT
>three blade prop.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine 'first' start |
Wally Anderson (Synergy Air) made a presentation about pre first flight inspections
at OSH. He disconnected the fuel line and measured how much fuel he could
get in x amount of minutes. He stated that is how he ensured that there wasn't
fuel starvation on the first flight and to ensure there wasn't any debris
in the fuel line.
>
> From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
> Date: 2008/08/06 Wed AM 11:35:53 EST
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
> Ralph,
>
> You're correct, it only has a few hours on it from the factory running. I'm
only planning to check for leaks and make sure both mags are firing properly -
won't be much ground running time right from the get go.
>
> I still need to season the brakes with a couple of taxi runs and make sure I
can get fuel flow for climbout time at climbout attitude - I'm thinking that the
fuel flow can be done by pointing the nose at climbing attitude and running
the boost pump - shouldn't need the engine running.
>
> More thoughts.....
>
> Ralph
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Ralph Finch <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us>
> >Sent: Aug 6, 2008 12:11 PM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
> >
> >
> >After it starts, what's your intention? I assume it needs to be broken in,
> >and the various procedures I've seen don't include much ground time running.
> >
> >Ralph Finch
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> >Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 6:14 AM
> >To: rv-list; lycoming engine list
> >Subject: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
> >
> >
> >Folks,
> >
> >My list of things to do before engine start is getting small and I think it
> >is time to consider letting the dragon breathe some fire.....
> >
> >I have an Aerosport Power IO360B1F6 (AFP injection, LASAR mags) with a MT
> >three blade prop.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine 'first' start |
During first start plan to have someone stand watch with fire extinguisher
handy looking for oil and gas leaks, smoke or fire. Watch the observer and
have hand signals for emergency shut down.
Dale
----- >
> More thoughts.....
>
> Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
| From: | cecilth(at)juno.com |
I would print on it in small print:
"If you noticed this little booboo, keep it to yourself"
Cecil
writes:
>
> Listers,
>
> Well, the trim tab came out perfect and I'm really pleased with the
> mating to the Elevator. That being said, I'm less than pleased with
>
> the for/aft alignment of the Trim Tab. The Trim Tab hangs past the
> Elevator trailing edge by about 1/8" of an inch. It is 1/8" along
> the whole distance of the Trim Tab. In looking at the cause, it
> appears that the skins are all cut such that you are suppose to use
> the roundy part of the hinge and not the square cutout when aligning
>
> the hinge for drilling. This would account for 1/16" on each side
> and would add up to the 1/8" overhang I'm seeing. Grrrrrr....
>
> What should I do, fellow builders? I could drill out all the rivets
>
> and use a new hinge, and I'm certainly not opposed to that. But am
> I
> making too big a deal out of the whole thing? Or is everyone gonna
> look at it forever and go, "Hey, how come your trim take is too
> long?" :-(
>
> Bummed Out in Livermore
>
> Matt
> RV-8 #82880
____________________________________________________________
Best selection of Bibles. Click Now
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nhMWQH4MJ1dXNUgbcTX8Qflt9QlstR3WjitJs3HghlcQRPV/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BooHoo - Trim Tab Alignment... |
| From: | "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Hey guys, thanks for all the great feedback. I think I'll just set it aside for
now and fry some bigger fish, and then come back to it later and see how I feel
about it. Jerry's comment about the tab never being aligned very often sitting
on the ramp made some good sense. Then again, on picture day.... :-)
Thanks!
Matt
--------
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196962#196962
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine 'first' start |
Thanks for the fuel line tip.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: rv(at)thelefflers.com
>Sent: Aug 6, 2008 1:35 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RE: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
>Wally Anderson (Synergy Air) made a presentation about pre first flight inspections
at OSH. He disconnected the fuel line and measured how much fuel he could
get in x amount of minutes. He stated that is how he ensured that there wasn't
fuel starvation on the first flight and to ensure there wasn't any debris
in the fuel line.
>
>>
>> From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>> Date: 2008/08/06 Wed AM 11:35:53 EST
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>>
>>
>> Ralph,
>>
>> You're correct, it only has a few hours on it from the factory running. I'm
only planning to check for leaks and make sure both mags are firing properly
- won't be much ground running time right from the get go.
>>
>> I still need to season the brakes with a couple of taxi runs and make sure I
can get fuel flow for climbout time at climbout attitude - I'm thinking that
the fuel flow can be done by pointing the nose at climbing attitude and running
the boost pump - shouldn't need the engine running.
>>
>> More thoughts.....
>>
>> Ralph
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >From: Ralph Finch <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us>
>> >Sent: Aug 6, 2008 12:11 PM
>> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>> >
>> >
>> >After it starts, what's your intention? I assume it needs to be broken in,
>> >and the various procedures I've seen don't include much ground time running.
>> >
>> >Ralph Finch
>> >
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>> >Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 6:14 AM
>> >To: rv-list; lycoming engine list
>> >Subject: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>> >
>> >
>> >Folks,
>> >
>> >My list of things to do before engine start is getting small and I think it
>> >is time to consider letting the dragon breathe some fire.....
>> >
>> >I have an Aerosport Power IO360B1F6 (AFP injection, LASAR mags) with a MT
>> >three blade prop.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine 'first' start |
I've already made a donation to the local fire department - they want to see anyway...don't
get to the airport much....Thanks!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
>Sent: Aug 6, 2008 1:52 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
>During first start plan to have someone stand watch with fire extinguisher
>handy looking for oil and gas leaks, smoke or fire. Watch the observer and
>have hand signals for emergency shut down.
>Dale
>----- >
>> More thoughts.....
>>
>> Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine 'first' start |
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>
> I've already made a donation to the local fire department - they want
> to see anyway...don't get to the airport much....Thanks!
Just make sure all your fuel and oil lines are tight and there shouldn't
be any way for a fire to start. If your plane is ready for flight, the
risk of fire at first engine start will be the same as when you run out
to the airport six months from now for a flight around the neighborhood.
It's not like the engine is going to explode. :-)
Best wishes for a great phase One. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine 'first' start |
Thanks Sam!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
>Sent: Aug 6, 2008 3:49 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
>Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>
>>
>> I've already made a donation to the local fire department - they want
>> to see anyway...don't get to the airport much....Thanks!
>
>Just make sure all your fuel and oil lines are tight and there shouldn't
>be any way for a fire to start. If your plane is ready for flight, the
>risk of fire at first engine start will be the same as when you run out
>to the airport six months from now for a flight around the neighborhood.
>
>It's not like the engine is going to explode. :-)
>
>Best wishes for a great phase One. :-)
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine 'first' start |
Actually Sam, there is another way for a fire on the first engine start even
with all the oil and gas lines tight...electrical!
Several years ago when I was still building my 6A at the airport, another
builder came over and asked if I would monitor his first start. There was
smoke almost immediately as the engine attempted to start. Every metal
connection from the engine to the airframe was cooked! When I asked him
where his ground strap was he asked me "what is a ground strap?" All of his
electrical testing before engine start didn't pull enough current to show
the lack of a ground strap but, of course, the starter motor turning the
engine was another story.
Dale
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
> Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>
>>
>> I've already made a donation to the local fire department - they want
>> to see anyway...don't get to the airport much....Thanks!
>
> Just make sure all your fuel and oil lines are tight and there shouldn't
> be any way for a fire to start. If your plane is ready for flight, the
> risk of fire at first engine start will be the same as when you run out to
> the airport six months from now for a flight around the neighborhood.
>
> It's not like the engine is going to explode. :-)
>
> Best wishes for a great phase One. :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 91 octane, time to be heard! |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
If you are happy with just 100LL stop here. You won't like where this is going.
This effects us all even in other countries because one tends to follow the other
at some point.
If you are tired of someone saying we can't have 91 octane, read on. It's time
to pick a side and take 5 minutes to email. Our lives as people are good because
someone didn't just say ok. Some took the time to make change and made it better
for all of us. If we choose to sit on the sideline and just go along then
we deserve what we get. I would implore all to take a minute and email these
two people and any other fuel administrator in other companies. I will post on
as many aviation websites as possible and I would you all to pick a side and
stand up to be heard and maybe, just maybe we might effect change. I for one
don't want to roll over. You are about to read a bulletin about the use of Chevron
ground fuel verses aviation fuel. Then I have a response.
Don't sit back and pick my memo apart, use that time to write your own and be heard.
Post this on all your aviation websites. Let them hear a nation wide voice.
Send your emails to:
LIMG(at)chevron.com
kayalbitz(at)chevron.com
or any other fuel company administrator.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197012#197012
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2008_04_2008_04_bulletin_2008_04_chevron_position_autogas_for_aviation_use_527.pdf
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ryan_memo_185.doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Fuel Question |
It is obviously leaking from the top aft portion of your tank where fuel
normally doesn't get unless you are in a vertical attitude. Check the
connector if you have a capacitance fuel indicator. Mine leaked. Also, check
the fuel vent connection at the root of the tank. I hope this helps.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 7:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Another Fuel Question
>
> I have a strong fuel odor in the cabin of my new RV8 which occurs only
> during climb attitude. Straight and level, descending and on the ground,
> there's no gas odor. I've gone over the entire fuel system (wing tanks,
> vent system, fuel selector valve, boost pump connections, gascolator, fuel
> pressure transducer, carb connections, mechanical pump connections, etc).
> I've found a few very small "weeping" connections which have been
> corrected, but the fuel smell is still there. I have also checked for blue
> streaks throughout the plane and don't see any.
>
> Any help with this annoying problem will sure be appreciated.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Walt Shipley
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine 'first' start |
Dale Ensing wrote:
>
> Actually Sam, there is another way for a fire on the first engine start
> even with all the oil and gas lines tight...electrical!
>
> Several years ago when I was still building my 6A at the airport,
> another builder came over and asked if I would monitor his first start.
> There was smoke almost immediately as the engine attempted to start.
> Every metal connection from the engine to the airframe was cooked! When
> I asked him where his ground strap was he asked me "what is a ground
> strap?" All of his electrical testing before engine start didn't pull
> enough current to show the lack of a ground strap but, of course, the
> starter motor turning the engine was another story.
> Dale
Yes.......but if we do the thorough pre-start inspection that is
mandatory...... :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | For sale New Garmin 396 |
| From: | eddyfernan(at)aol.com |
For sale new Garmin 396 new in the box (never opened) with all the standard accesorries
and XM weather antenna. Aircraft Spruce price is $1795. Will sell for
$1600 plus shipping from 33029 (Ft. Lauderdale, FL) to you. If you are in the
market for this unit this will save you $200.? Please call me as I will be on
the road Eddy Fernandez (954) 914-5579 cell. Pay pal or cashiers check only.
Eddy Fernandez
RV9A 300hrs tt
RV7A Finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Testing |
It is a standard practice in aviation to pressurize bladder and sealed
tanks. Vans even tells you how to do it before installing the tanks. If you
are really concerned, just disconnect the vent line from the wing root and
put a balloon on the vent line fitting and screw the pump fitting into the
low point drain like Vans tells you. Then, pump it slowly to prevent too
much pressure.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Timothy E. Cone" <tcone1(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Testing
>
> STOP!!!! Do not hook your tank up to ANY pressure source...I don't care
> what kind of regulator you have. Fuel tanks and compressed gasses do not
> go together.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 3:34 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Testing
>
>
>>
>> You better have a quality regulator to ensure you only put one PSI in the
>> tank. You can damage the tank with three PSI.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Alden D. Van Winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.org>
>> To:
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 3:52 PM
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank Testing
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jerry
>>>
>>> The differential is 2 ft 3 inches which equates to approx one PSI. This
>>> is
>>> what I used for my RV-9A tanks and worked very well. Even with one PSI,
>>> you
>>> will see a small amount of skin deflection between the tank ribs while
>>> pressurized. Also be aware that the differential is very sensitive to
>>> temperature changes, even if you have no leaks.
>>>
>>> Dean Van Winkle
>>> dvanwinkle(at)royell.org
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Jerry Cochran" <jerry2dt(at)aol.com>
>>> To:
>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 11:52 AM
>>> Subject: RV-List: Tank Testing
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I had to remove both fuel senders and reseal so am testing for
>>>> integrity.
>>> The instructions for testing with a manometer are saying either 2 to 3
>>> inches diff in water levels or 2 feet 3 inches, can't tell which. Before
>>> bothering Van's and displaying my ignorance anyone here know the answer
>>> for
>>> sure? I'd rather not blow my tanks apart, ya know...
>>>>
>>>> Thanks all,
>>>>
>>>> Jerry
>>>>
>>>> Oh, BTW... I would never, repeat NEVER use the supplied rubber gaskets
>>> again.
>>>> I could not figure out why I'd never get a drip on the hangar floor but
>>> mysterious fuel streaks down the belly. My hangar mate pointed out that
>>> at
>>> speed the fuel vents can slightly pressurize the tanks. Fact or fiction?
>>> You
>>> decide. I took senders out, slathered proseal and replaced. Hopefully
>>> fixed.
>>>> Edit/Delete Message
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196662#196662
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Another Fuel Question |
That may be true, but also consider that airflow can be very strong, and can
vary noticeably in different attitudes and speeds. The path of airflow can
change; a small tornado surrounds our fuselage. Check the shape and
condition of the vent openings, too. You can close one tank including
sealing the vent and do a flight test. Then test the other tank. Double
check to be sure one tank is feeding proper before flight, and as always
when testing and being distracted, be prepared for an emergency. Are there
any signs of fuel stains anywhere in the cockpit, checking the entire route
of all fuel line and vent line with a bright light?
Good luck!
Dale
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of wskimike
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 9:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Fuel Question
It is obviously leaking from the top aft portion of your tank where fuel
normally doesn't get unless you are in a vertical attitude. Check the
connector if you have a capacitance fuel indicator. Mine leaked. Also, check
the fuel vent connection at the root of the tank. I hope this helps.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 7:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Another Fuel Question
>
> I have a strong fuel odor in the cabin of my new RV8 which occurs only
> during climb attitude. Straight and level, descending and on the ground,
> there's no gas odor. I've gone over the entire fuel system (wing tanks,
> vent system, fuel selector valve, boost pump connections, gascolator, fuel
> pressure transducer, carb connections, mechanical pump connections, etc).
> I've found a few very small "weeping" connections which have been
> corrected, but the fuel smell is still there. I have also checked for blue
> streaks throughout the plane and don't see any.
>
> Any help with this annoying problem will sure be appreciated.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Walt Shipley
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: For sale New Garmin 396 |
Eddy,
-How come you are building a 7A? I saw you on the front page of the Sun S
entinel when I came back from Buffalo last month. Congratulations.
Charlie
--- On Wed, 8/6/08, eddyfernan(at)aol.com wrote:
From: eddyfernan(at)aol.com <eddyfernan(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: For sale New Garmin 396
Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2008, 9:48 PM
For sale new Garmin 396 new in the box (never opened) with all the standard
accesorries and XM weather antenna. Aircraft Spruce price is $1795. Will s
ell for $1600 plus shipping from 33029 (Ft. Lauderdale, FL) to you. If you
are in the market for this unit this will save you $200.- Please call me
as I will be on the road Eddy Fernandez (954) 914-5579 cell. Pay pal or cas
hiers check only.
Eddy Fernandez
RV9A 300hrs tt
RV7A Finishing kit
It's time to go back to school! Get the latest trends and gadgets that make
the grade on AOL Shopping.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Fuel Question |
Walt,
If you find that the leak is at the bulkhead connector for the capacitance fuel
senders (if you have those) be sure to purchase genuine, made in the USA AMPHANOL
brand for the replacement. Vans supplies "made in the orient" units, which
are not as well designed.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Wed, 8/6/08, wskimike wrote:
> From: wskimike <wskimike(at)mchsi.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Fuel Question
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2008, 9:34 PM
>
>
> It is obviously leaking from the top aft portion of your
> tank where fuel
> normally doesn't get unless you are in a vertical
> attitude. Check the
> connector if you have a capacitance fuel indicator. Mine
> leaked. Also, check
> the fuel vent connection at the root of the tank. I hope
> this helps.
>
> Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 7:50 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Another Fuel Question
>
>
>
> >
> > I have a strong fuel odor in the cabin of my new RV8
> which occurs only
> > during climb attitude. Straight and level, descending
> and on the ground,
> > there's no gas odor. I've gone over the entire
> fuel system (wing tanks,
> > vent system, fuel selector valve, boost pump
> connections, gascolator, fuel
> > pressure transducer, carb connections, mechanical pump
> connections, etc).
> > I've found a few very small "weeping"
> connections which have been
> > corrected, but the fuel smell is still there. I have
> also checked for blue
> > streaks throughout the plane and don't see any.
> >
> > Any help with this annoying problem will sure be
> appreciated.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Walt Shipley
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another Fuel Question |
In a message dated 8/6/2008 7:43:52 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
chaskuss(at)yahoo.com writes:
If you find that the leak is at the bulkhead connector for the capacitance
fuel senders (if you have those) be sure to purchase genuine, made in the USA
AMPHANOL brand for the replacement.
Actually the name of the company is Amphenol.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 895hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Fuel Question |
My error. I should have placed a comma after the abbreviation USA to clarify that
statement.
Charlie
--- On Thu, 8/7/08, Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Fuel Question
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, August 7, 2008, 12:43 AM
> In a message dated 8/6/2008 7:43:52 P.M. Pacific Daylight
> Time,
> chaskuss(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> If you find that the leak is at the bulkhead connector for
> the capacitance
> fuel senders (if you have those) be sure to purchase
> genuine, made in the USA
> AMPHANOL brand for the replacement.
>
>
> Actually the name of the company is Amphenol.
>
>
>
> N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 895hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon
> Valley)
>
>
>
> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and
> fits in your budget?
> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017
> )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine 'first' start |
I'm glad I have a ground strap....thanks to Bob Nuckoll's engineering and literary
talents.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
>Sent: Aug 6, 2008 8:08 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
>Actually Sam, there is another way for a fire on the first engine start even
>with all the oil and gas lines tight...electrical!
>
>Several years ago when I was still building my 6A at the airport, another
>builder came over and asked if I would monitor his first start. There was
>smoke almost immediately as the engine attempted to start. Every metal
>connection from the engine to the airframe was cooked! When I asked him
>where his ground strap was he asked me "what is a ground strap?" All of his
>electrical testing before engine start didn't pull enough current to show
>the lack of a ground strap but, of course, the starter motor turning the
>engine was another story.
>Dale
>
>From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 3:49 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine 'first' start
>
>
>>
>> Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I've already made a donation to the local fire department - they want
>>> to see anyway...don't get to the airport much....Thanks!
>>
>> Just make sure all your fuel and oil lines are tight and there shouldn't
>> be any way for a fire to start. If your plane is ready for flight, the
>> risk of fire at first engine start will be the same as when you run out to
>> the airport six months from now for a flight around the neighborhood.
>>
>> It's not like the engine is going to explode. :-)
>>
>> Best wishes for a great phase One. :-)
>>
>> Sam Buchanan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Fuel Question |
Charlie, thank you and the others who have suggested solutions to my fuel leak
problem. I do have the Van's fuel level gauges/sending units on my RV8, and after
removing the wing to fuselage fairings once again, I believe the right sending
unit may be leaking; I don't see any blue stains, but the fiber center of
the unit appears dark in color compared to the one on the left side.
You mentioned Amphenol brand sender as better than the Van's standard unit - where
can I get them? I've tried googling for Amphenol senders several different
ways but don't get anything helpful.
Thanks again....
Walt Shipley
-----Original Message-----
>From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
>Sent: Aug 7, 2008 7:39 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Fuel Question
>
>
>My error. I should have placed a comma after the abbreviation USA to clarify that
statement.
>Charlie
>
>
>--- On Thu, 8/7/08, Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>> From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Fuel Question
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Thursday, August 7, 2008, 12:43 AM
>> In a message dated 8/6/2008 7:43:52 P.M. Pacific Daylight
>> Time,
>> chaskuss(at)yahoo.com writes:
>>
>> If you find that the leak is at the bulkhead connector for
>> the capacitance
>> fuel senders (if you have those) be sure to purchase
>> genuine, made in the USA
>> AMPHANOL brand for the replacement.
>>
>>
>> Actually the name of the company is Amphenol.
>>
>>
>>
>> N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 895hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon
>> Valley)
>>
>>
>>
>> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and
>> fits in your budget?
>> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
>> (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017
>> )
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 91 octane, time to be heard! |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Everyone,
Every website I posted on and I sent the letters to Flight Design have people
speaking up in support. I have received dozens of emails in support and that is
just since last night.
One voice will dye, but thousands may be heard.
Everyone,
Don't sit ideally and complain. 1-2 minutes of your time is all anyone is asking.
It's your future and your time to offer your hand in a worthwhile effort to
help shape it. Do it for yourself if not for anyone else.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197125#197125
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Boyd" <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Fuel Question |
He's speaking of electronic capacitance senders; sounds like you have
electric, float-type, like mine. Not the same animal.
-Bill
On Thu, Aug 7, 2008 at 9:55 AM, rveighta wrote:
>
>
> Charlie, thank you and the others who have suggested solutions to my fuel
> leak problem. I do have the Van's fuel level gauges/sending units on my RV8,
> and after removing the wing to fuselage fairings once again, I believe the
> right sending unit may be leaking; I don't see any blue stains, but the
> fiber center of the unit appears dark in color compared to the one on the
> left side.
>
> You mentioned Amphenol brand sender as better than the Van's standard unit
> - where can I get them? I've tried googling for Amphenol senders several
> different ways but don't get anything helpful.
>
> Thanks again....
>
> Walt Shipley
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
> >Sent: Aug 7, 2008 7:39 AM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Fuel Question
> >
> >
> >My error. I should have placed a comma after the abbreviation USA to
> clarify that statement.
> >Charlie
> >
> >
> >--- On Thu, 8/7/08, Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >> From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com>
> >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Fuel Question
> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Date: Thursday, August 7, 2008, 12:43 AM
> >> In a message dated 8/6/2008 7:43:52 P.M. Pacific Daylight
> >> Time,
> >> chaskuss(at)yahoo.com writes:
> >>
> >> If you find that the leak is at the bulkhead connector for
> >> the capacitance
> >> fuel senders (if you have those) be sure to purchase
> >> genuine, made in the USA
> >> AMPHANOL brand for the replacement.
> >>
> >>
> >> Actually the name of the company is Amphenol.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 895hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon
> >> Valley)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and
> >> fits in your budget?
> >> Read reviews on AOL Autos.
> >> (
> http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017
> >> )
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | -7 tipup rear window fitting problem |
I'm beginning the fit of my rear window (-7 tipup). After the big cut &
trimming the rear window to the plans-specified 1 1/4" outside the top
skin outline, I get a good 'glass/skin fit from top rear to about 10"
back of the roll bar. from that point it looks like the skin is puckered
out, but on closer exam the bottom edge of the window doesn't curve down
& in quick enough & is slightly outside the vertical line of the
fuselage side. The problem is almost identical on both sides. I *might*
be able to pull this in with screws, but my plan is to glue the canopy
and the rear window. I've got misgivings about expecting the sikaflex to
hold against this much stress when it won't be the specified 1/8"
thickness around this curved edge.
Has anyone else seen similar problems, and what did you do? The 1st
thing that comes to mind is heating & re curving the plexi, but the 2nd
thing that comes to mind is needing a new $1K canopy.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter11(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Use of Auto gas in aircraft - Chevron Ops Bulletin 2008-04 Risk |
of Using Automotive Fuels in Aircraft, June 2008
Dear Linda,
I notice from your signature block on the Chevron Ops Bulletin that you
are a quality person in the aviation fuels area.
I'm a retired USAF colonel, fighter pilot, and also a civilian pilot,
flying since I was 13, solo'd at 16, private pilot certificate at 17,
then back into civilian flying starting in 1970s (in my 30's) (Cessna
172), and most recently, building an RV-6 home built "experimental"
aircraft since Jan 1997. Finally bought one a year ago, 1 Jun 07, and
love flying it.
. . . At my last annual inspection in Nov 07 we overhauled the carb,
mainly to make sure it didn't have a plastic float that would dissolve
if I were ever to accidentally get autogas with alcohol in it. Now it
has a brass float and I've begun using mogas, per the STC that is FAA
approved for my engine, a high compression Lycoming IO-320 (160 hp).
The 160 hp model requires 91 octane, not available here at sea level -
only 87, 89, and 93, so I use 93 octane.
I am a very careful pilot, and have spent, and continue to spend, many
hours studying, researching (learning), and expanding my understanding
of "things". One area I've paid attention to is the use of MOGAS (auto
gas) in aircraft.
. . . The only concern of me and the FAA is that auto gas must not
contain ethanol - ethanol may not be compatible with all aircraft
'airframe systems" - tanks and tank sealants (stuff that keeps tanks
from leaking), fuel lines (aluminum, which is corroded by ethanol), etc.
. . . There is ZERO concern about the "engine" - except for the float
and needle valve rubber tip. With those two things of the right
material, which is fully documented in maintenance publications and
engine manufacturers' literature, there is ZERO concern about the
engine's performance at full rated power and about the engine's
durability.
Because you are truly interested in safety, and accuracy of information
you accept, I hope you will look at my favorite info that I have
collected in "My Documents" over the past 11 years - attached. I just
re-read it and it is a stand-alone excellent discussion of aviation
fuel, looking to the future.
Would appreciate your response to this, especially if you issue any
"clarification" or "recision" of your recent Ops Bulletin, which seems
to me to be a good idea. Because,. . .
. . . There is a total absence of any concern by the FAA, the
manufacturer's, and us maintainters and operators of aircraft, over
using automotive fuel that has the FAA required octane and does not have
ethanol. If they are not concerned, why are you, given that the first
reason you gave in the Ops Bulletin is not really an issue of safety,
the 2nd does not stand up to peer review, and the 3rd is "common
knowledge" and agreed to by everyone - don't use any fuel with ethanol
in an airplane that has not been tested and certified compatible (and
none has, to my knowledge)?
Best wishes,
David Carter
619 S. 16th St
Nederland, Texas 77627 (85 mi east of Houston)
home ph 409-722-7259
cell (when away from house) 409-718-2268
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips... |
Dear Listers,
Here are some pictures of my recently finished Fin and Rudder
fiberglass tips, specifically highlighting my notion of mounting the
VOR/GS/LOC antenna on the top of the Fin. It came out very nice I
think and gives full access to cabling and antenna mount for maintenance.
But here's my question. Look at that last picture of the back end of
the Fin fiberglass tip and note the gaping hole. I gather from the
plans that it is kind of up to the builder whether to put a cover on
the back of it. My first question would have to be why the f***
isn't there one already molded on it like on the front of the rudder
tip? But, hostility aside, what's everyone's thoughts on finishing
these? I'm just thinking that my patience for fiberglass layups
hovers around zero and I can just see taking a totally sweet tip
installation and mucking it royally. But, I will if I must. I would
really like the back end finished off rather than gaping open like
that, but it might be something I could live with...
Thoughts?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Consensus On Finishing Back End Of Fiberglass Tips... |
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