RV-Archive.digest.vol-tt
October 22, 2008 - November 29, 2008
pressure on the elevator because of an out-of-trim condition, the device
will automatically feed in trim to compensate and reduces the workload on
the pitch axis servo. This function is wired in parallel with the normal
electric trim button on the stick that the pilot uses so the trim input from
the system can always be overridden. They call it their "Failsafe Automatic
Pitch Trim". I believe that it only works in conjunction with the autopilot
engaged, however. It would be cool if would also auto-trim for different
power settings when the autopilot was disengaged.
I've included a picture of the linkage below and more information from
TruTrak's web site below as well. Seems like a really cool device.
Here's a link to the Manual:
http://www.trutrakap.com/documents/AutomaticPitchTrim.pdf
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
[]
Emacs!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Winkels" <winkels(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When? |
Matt, I have had several steel and aluminum parts powder coated on my RV-7,
and I asked my powder coater about the limitations of powder coating. He
said he would be very hesitant to powder coat anything thinner than about
.063" aluminum because the heat can cause deformation, especially in larger
parts. I am no expert, but I don't think it would be advisable to place your
assembled fuselage into a 400 degree oven!!! I certainly wouldn't do it.
Also, powder coating can add considerably more weight than priming/painting.
By the way, I had my assembled brake pedals powder coated with excellent
results. My instrument panel will also get powder coated (before the
instruments are installed, of course ;). Other than the slider canopy latch
hook, that's about the extent of aluminum parts I'll powder coat. Of the
steel parts powder coated, I've done the tailwheel spring and fork assembly,
slider canopy frame and roll bar, and canopy latch handle, but that's about
it.
Hope this helps,
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 19:12
Subject: RV8-List: Interior Painting - Powercoating? When?
--> RV8-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
Fellow RV-er's,
There is a powercoating shop here in my town that has an oven large enough
to put my whole RV-8 fuselage into it. I've been considering just having
the whole inside powercoated for the durability, and sweet look. Lots of
guys powercoat the instrument panel and obviously most of the steel parts
come from Van's powercoated. But what are the upsides and downsides of
powercoating all of the interior parts. I've used Variprime on most of the
backsides of the interior parts, but I've left the occupant facing parts
bare in prep for the powercoating. Will the powercoat chip off easily on
the bend-y pieces?
And when's the right time to take it down to the powercoaters? I would like
to have most things riveted that need riveting before the coating like the
forward deck over the instrument panel and the aft turtledeck, but these get
riveted on pretty late in the building process. I would like to have all of
the wiring and controls installed or at least fabbed and trial fitted before
coating to avoid scratches. But again, once things are wired, is coating
going to make a mess? Its not like the harnesses can really be removed once
their installed...
The other concern is the heat necessary to bake on the powercoating. I
think its upwards of 450 degrees F. What impact will that temperature have
on the various parts that go into the fuselage such as the aeronuts, plastic
bushings, clamps, etc?
I'm in quite a dilemma over this. I really want to wait as long as possible
to avoid scratches and chips in the powercoating, but I don't want to wait
too long and not be able to disassemble things to the point of making a good
looking job. For example, the rear floor boards should probably be riveted
down, but any screwed in panels should be removed. But riveting the
floorboards is something I'd probably prefer to do the day before test
flying...
Thanks for any insight...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 # 82880
Trutrak Auto Pilot Servo and Aileron Electric Trim Install
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <n142ds(at)gmail.com> |
Are there any RV'ers based in Prescott? I'm heading out that way on the 9th
of November ... looking into where I might hanger the 6 for a week while I'm
on the ground.
Please respond off-line. Thanks...
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John L. Danielson" <jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
I have some items for sale on E-bay that may interest some of you.
Vans oil pressure and temperature gauges and senders, vacume gage,
Artificial horizon and directional gyros,
EGT and CHT gauges.
John D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
I believe its now clear that we will not be required to have the new
elt, unless flying to canada maybe. I was wondering what the folks on
here are thinking about installing, or not? At this time I am leaning to
Not. I havent seen any good indicators that ELTS have saved any ones
bacon. Do know of several times they have ben acidently set off, did it
once myself but caught it after couple mins and notified tower. Charlie
Heathco, Fayetteville Ar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Having pondered the dilemma, I'll probably go with a modified 406 Mhz
PLB. I see no reason to install a 'traditional' ELT that, as Charlie
says, doesn't add anything to the survivability. AFAIK, the traditional
ELT May help find the bodies less problematic. But I said 'modified'.
The only thing wrong with the PLBs is that they have no G switch, so
I'll modify my PLB with a homemade G switch. If you already have the
'traditional' ELT, then I see no reason to change ...... the CAP will
(may) find your remains, and if you survive the crash I think you should
be able to get on the radio and call for help.
Linn
Charles Heathco wrote:
> I believe its now clear that we will not be required to have the new
> elt, unless flying to canada maybe. I was wondering what the folks on
> here are thinking about installing, or not? At this time I am leaning
> to Not. I havent seen any good indicators that ELTS have saved any
> ones bacon. Do know of several times they have ben acidently set off,
> did it once myself but caught it after couple mins and notified tower.
> Charlie Heathco, Fayetteville Ar
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | dimple speed mods |
Has anybody on the list ever experimented with dimple tape? Below you
will find a link to an article written in sport aviation back in 98.
They claim a 10 mph speed increase on an RV3 and half of the propeller
noise. With the speed increase and noise reduction claimed I have to
wonder why I dont see this on almost all airplanes...makes it a bit
suspect. Still if it's real I would want to know...cheap speed mod.
Evan
http://www.dimpletape.com/article.htm
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
10/23/2008 7:54 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
I won't install one. I have a 406 MHz PLB with integrated GPS.
At some point in the future I will install an APRS system which
provides exact coordinates when on and stations pick up the signal.
A Spot system offers similar benefits using different communications links
(satellite).
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dimple speed mods |
Yes, I was suckered into trying it. I put it on the Warnke wood prop on
my Rv6A and the max RPM which had been 2550 was now 2800 and he throttle
wasn't even full open.
The tape reduced speed to a dangerous level with significant handling
reducing qualities.
I took it off after one dangerous flight and threw it in the waste can
where it belonged.
The Warnke prop may be operating near stall normally and the tape put it
over the edge, anyway the tape was a joint buy with another pilot who
had poor results and stopped trying it also.
FWIW
\John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Laub <jesse(at)casco.net> |
Hi to RV builders,
Due to the financial demands of building, owning and operating an
airplane, I have stopped construction of my RV8A. I will be selling the
project in packages along with pilot supplies and tools. The first
package is the engine/prop. A Superior XP IO-360
B1A3 with MT Aluminum prop. See the details and complete list of
accessories at www.rv8projectparts.net
Jesse Laub Waldport, OR
leftylem73(at)live.com
541-563-4475
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hobby Air System |
| From: | "panamared5(at)brier.net" <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
Anyone who is using the Hobby Air System for painting, I would like to
know how you like it. Is it worth it, and is it user friendly, or too
much trouble to bother with?
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Hooper" <krhooper(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hobby Air System |
I am using one right now. It takes a little planning in the paint booth for
dragging the breathing hose around. I found it easier to tape the air
pressure hose and the breathing hose together, limiting the tangle. The air
does get a little warm if the breathing unit runs for a while. All in all I
like the set up.
Randy Hooper
On Fri, Oct 24, 2008 at 1:38 PM, panamared5(at)brier.net
wrote:
> panamared5(at)brier.net>
>
> Anyone who is using the Hobby Air System for painting, I would like to
> know how you like it. Is it worth it, and is it user friendly, or too
> much trouble to bother with?
>
> Bob
> RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
>
>
--
Randy Hooper
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Bright <john_s_bright(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hobby Air System |
Hi Bob... I have Hobby Air and I like it... would buy it again.=0A=0Ado not
archive=0AThanks, =0A=0AJohn Bright=0Ao:757-864-2305=0Ah:757-874-0861=0Ac:
757-812-1909=0Ahttp://www.facebook.com/people/John_Bright/1450601073 =0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: "panamared5(at)brier.net" <p
anamared5(at)brier.net>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Friday, October 24
, 2008 2:38:54 PM=0ASubject: Fwd:Fw: RV-List: Hobby Air System=0A=0A--> RV-
List message posted by: "panamared5(at)brier.net" =0A=0A
Anyone who is using the Hobby Air System for painting, I would like to=0Akn
ow how you like it.- Is it worth it, and is it user friendly, or too=0Amu
ch trouble to bother with?=0A=0ABob=0ARV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"=0A=0A
-========================
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Laub <jesse(at)casco.net> |
Hi Builders,
Due to the financial demands of building, owning and operating an
airplane, I have terminated construction of my RV8A. I am dismantling
it to sell it off in packages.
The Firewall Forward Package (Superior XP IO-360B1A3 with MT aluminum
prop) is now available. Other packages, tools and pilot supplies will
be available soon. See more detailed list of what makes up the Firewall
Forward Package at www.rv8projectparts.net There are/will be more
parts, tools and aviation related supplies available soon.
Jesse Laub RV8A 81173
Waldport, OR
leftylem73(at)live.com
541-563-4475
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Hobby Air System |
I've been looking at this system:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=17667&itemType=PRODUCT
Has anyone else tried it? Seems like a good way to minimize hoses and weight.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of panamared5(at)brier.net
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 1:39 PM
Subject: Fwd:Fw: RV-List: Hobby Air System
Anyone who is using the Hobby Air System for painting, I would like to
know how you like it. Is it worth it, and is it user friendly, or too
much trouble to bother with?
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hobby Air System |
I bought a hobby air when I first started. I was spraying AZKO primer.
Nasty stuff. I absolutely love the hobby air and would recommend it highly
.
Inexpensive, simple, clean air.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 FWF
In a message dated 10/24/2008 11:42:27 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
panamared5(at)brier.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "panamared5(at)brier.net"
Anyone who is using the Hobby Air System for painting, I would like to
know how you like it. Is it worth it, and is it user friendly, or too
much trouble to bother with?
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
**************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your favorites
,
no registration required and great graphics =93 check it out!
http://www.games.com?ncid=emlcntusgame00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dimple speed mods |
I got the same results as John. I actually made a jig and dimpled the wood
prop. The speed did go up but it was because the RPM increased just as John's
did. Problem was that I was now over revving the engine and I didn't want to
do that. By that time Sensenich came out with the metal fixed pitch prop for
the 0-360 and I went with that. Better speed at normal RPM.
Jim
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
ooter)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine for Sale |
Looks like your fairley close to finishing, might want to complete it because,
you can actually make money on an RV once its finished. Im thinking 10~20K range
depending.
Here is another thought,finish it, fly it for a year and then sell it, you can
still make money that will have paid for all your flying!
Your so close, you just gotta finish it!
Have you thought about taking on a partner?
I feel for ya.
Scott
RV-8a
----- Original Message ----
From: Jesse Laub <jesse(at)casco.net>
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 1:08:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engine for Sale
Hi Builders,
Due to the financial demands of building, owning and operating an
airplane, I have terminated construction of my RV8A. I am dismantling
it to sell it off in packages.
The Firewall Forward Package (Superior XP IO-360B1A3 with MT aluminum
prop) is now available. Other packages, tools and pilot supplies will
be available soon. See more detailed list of what makes up the Firewall
Forward Package at www.rv8projectparts.net There are/will be more
parts, tools and aviation related supplies available soon.
Jesse Laub RV8A 81173
Waldport, OR
leftylem73(at)live.com
541-563-4475
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Hobby Air System |
Michael,
My EAA chapter purchased one, it's really nice.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Fri, 10/24/08, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
> Subject: RE: Fwd:Fw: RV-List: Hobby Air System
> To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
> Date: Friday, October 24, 2008, 4:10 PM
> Sausen)"
>
> I've been looking at this system:
>
> http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=17667&itemType=PRODUCT
>
> Has anyone else tried it? Seems like a good way to
> minimize hoses and weight.
>
> Michael Sausen
> RV-10 #352 Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> panamared5(at)brier.net
> Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 1:39 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Fwd:Fw: RV-List: Hobby Air System
>
> "panamared5(at)brier.net"
>
>
> Anyone who is using the Hobby Air System for painting, I
> would like to
> know how you like it. Is it worth it, and is it user
> friendly, or too
> much trouble to bother with?
>
> Bob
> RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | invitation to Slobovia Outernational Pumpkin Drop 2008 |
RV'ers,
Come on down to Slobovia Outernational (MS71), 10mi north of Jackson MS,
to eat some BBQ & participate in our 2nd annual Pumpkin Drop on Nov 8,
2008. Give us a call at 601-879-9596 if you need directions.
Charlie & Tupper
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Riffel" <riffeljl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Oiling and Starting New AeroSport Engine w/ 2 PMags |
I've been working on my RV7A project for 4 years now. I chose to install
2 PMags on my new IO-360 from AeroSport - and am Very Pleased to this point.
With 2 PMags I've got to have a LOT of failures for the engine to stop:
battery, alternator, and both PMags. They are easy to install (bolt them in
any way you want) and time (put #1 cylinder on TDC and blow into the
manifold pressure tube a couple times). After timing the Slick mags on
my '65 Mooney, this is Amazingly Easy. I chose AutoPlugs so I they cost
$2/plug vs $20/plug (that's under $20 in plugs for the engine vs $160!)
But now it was time to start my brand new engine for the 1st time, so the
question was: How can I crank the engine to get the oil pressure up -
without starting ... and without taking a bunch of wires off.
I made a quick call to Brad (at EMags), who's been EXTREEMLY helpful, and we
came up with an approach which I thought I'd share.
Check oil level
Sparkplugs: OUT
chock the wheels & friend in the cockpit on the brakes
Key Switch: OFF (which grounds both P-Leads)
Master Switch: On (sending power to both PMags)
Visually verify that the LED on both PMags are illuminated Red (showing
they're in setup mode ... and Will Not Fire)
Place a Jumper wire between the Master solenoid and the Starter Solenoid (S
terminal) to crank the starter
After the oil pressure came up. We put the plugs in and cranked it again. It
started in about 2 blades and ran flawlessly. When I did a mag drop test, I
got NO RPM DROP - at all! And both internal alternators in the Pmags tested
fine.
I'd like to thank both Bart & Sue at AeroSport Power as well as Brad & Tom
at EMags for all their help to this point. Both businesses deliver a great
product, which they stand behind and have been great to deal with. I have
no reservations in recommending them to any builder.
BTW, I took my PMags back to have the service bulletin work done and to
see their solution. Both Brad & Tom took me thru the shop and explained in
detail how the mod was done. I'm comfortable with their answers to my
questions and their solution.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Here is my opinion. If you are buying a new, get the 406. The do cost 3 to 4 times
as much. They do have 5 yr batteries which is good. The fact still remains,
satellites are going dark, and really all you will have is a 100mw 121.5 elt
that has a range of a kids walkie talkie.
I won't go into why 406 is better technically, but the cost for faults alarms
every year is huge. The 406 is suppose to reduce this because they are registered
and more accurate.
Bottom line is people will not be looking for you with an old ELT, because no
one will hear it. The satellites for the old ELT's are going way regardless of
our Goverments ineffectualness in mandating the change. Even if the USA does
not require the 406, the world has moved on, except for may be a few military
sattalites, there will not be any sattalites looking for you. I think 406 will
be mandated at some point, just not next year as originally stated.
If you live in the wild west or remote areas with rugged terrain get a 406. If
all you do is fly the flat lands near your airport than it's less critical.
(would steve fossett have been found ssoner with a 406? I don't know, may be if
the ELT was in the most aft end of the plane? He flew straight into a mountain.
He had no chance of survival, but it sure would have been nice to find the
wreckage sooner than later for all involved. The cost of S&R was over a million.)
The fact is the chance of being saved with the old ELT is far less than the new
406. Yes ELT's have failed and not worked. Yes some crashes are not survivable,
however there is another factor. The cost of searching for your body and
the stress on your family. There is some value to not burdening society and your
family.
You can get a PLB as an adjunct or aid. They are NOT AS GOOD AS A HARD MOUNTED
406 ELT UNIT. Yes they have good specs on paper but their antenna is a big compromise
as is their battery. They are under a PLB spec. You could argue if you
crash and get out, but the plane burns to the ground than a PLB is nice. That
exact thing happend to a well known mountain flying instructor and his student.
Crashed, got out, plane burned. All their survivial gear and ELT gone. Lesson
wear a survival vest with the gear on your person.
Clearly having both the PLB and 406 aircraft ELT would be best. PLB's are not
a lot cheaper than a 406 elt about $600-$700 verses $1000. Of course you have
to remember to turn a PLB on. If you carsh suddenly, don't activate it and are
knocked out, than you are toast.
There is the private SPOT system as well, which is a pay service and does give
tracking. They are cheaper to buy but the fee adds up.
It's only money. More 406's are coming onto the market and cost about $1000.
I hope they get better and cheaper with more features (like GPS position standard).
With aircraft stuff I doubt the price will come down.
George
>From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
>Subject: RV-List: 406 ELT
>
>I believe its now clear that we will not be required to have the new
>elt, unless flying to canada maybe. I was wondering what the folks on
>here are thinking about installing, or not?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Oiling and Starting New AeroSport Engine w/ 2 PMags |
The only question I have is: are the PMags not on CBs? It may be an
ignorant question because I have LightSpeeds, but my ECIs operate from the
switch but also have CBs. So when I went to pressure up the system, I
pulled the breakers and used the switch to crank.
Anyway, congrats on the engine start. I just did mine a short while ago and
I know how exhilarating it is. Almost in the air, eh?
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A N156PK - preparing for the Airworthiness Inspection!
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J Riffel
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 7:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oiling and Starting New AeroSport Engine w/ 2 PMags
I've been working on my RV7A project for 4 years now. I chose to install 2
PMags on my new IO-360 from AeroSport - and am Very Pleased to this point.
With 2 PMags I've got to have a LOT of failures for the engine to stop:
battery, alternator, and both PMags. They are easy to install (bolt them in
any way you want) and time (put #1 cylinder on TDC and blow into the
manifold pressure tube a couple times). After timing the Slick mags on my
'65 Mooney, this is Amazingly Easy. I chose AutoPlugs so I they cost
$2/plug vs $20/plug (that's under $20 in plugs for the engine vs $160!)
But now it was time to start my brand new engine for the 1st time, so the
question was: How can I crank the engine to get the oil pressure up -
without starting ... and without taking a bunch of wires off.
I made a quick call to Brad (at EMags), who's been EXTREEMLY helpful, and we
came up with an approach which I thought I'd share.
Check oil level
Sparkplugs: OUT
chock the wheels & friend in the cockpit on the brakes
Key Switch: OFF (which grounds both P-Leads)
Master Switch: On (sending power to both PMags)
Visually verify that the LED on both PMags are illuminated Red (showing
they're in setup mode ... and Will Not Fire)
Place a Jumper wire between the Master solenoid and the Starter Solenoid (S
terminal) to crank the starter
After the oil pressure came up. We put the plugs in and cranked it again. It
started in about 2 blades and ran flawlessly. When I did a mag drop test, I
got NO RPM DROP - at all! And both internal alternators in the Pmags tested
fine.
I'd like to thank both Bart & Sue at AeroSport Power as well as Brad & Tom
at EMags for all their help to this point. Both businesses deliver a great
product, which they stand behind and have been great to deal with. I have
no reservations in recommending them to any builder.
BTW, I took my PMags back to have the service bulletin work done and to see
their solution. Both Brad & Tom took me thru the shop and explained in
detail how the mod was done. I'm comfortable with their answers to my
questions and their solution.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: dimple speed mods |
| From: | Dan Morrow <DanFM01(at)butter.toast.net> |
> Yes, I was suckered into trying it. I put it on the Warnke wood prop
> on my Rv6A and the max RPM which had been 2550 was now 2800 and he
> throttle wasn't even full open.
>
> The tape reduced speed to a dangerous level with significant handling
> reducing qualities.
Sounds like the tape may have been working but you would need a higher
pitched prop to use it. Obviously it's not practical for the average
person to obtain a selection of props to experiment with. I wonder if
it might work better with a constant speed.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oiling and Starting New AeroSport Engine w/ 2 PMags |
Maybe their problems with the blow tube method have been resolved.
Personally
I would not rely upon that method if a failure causes it to revert back
to some mechanical
setting that may be bad for the timing.
Get it in your mind that if the engine runs very badly...to switch
between mags to isolate
possible Pmag problems. Obviously you should have other things to check
but don't skip
that one.
Ron Lee
I've been working on my RV7A project for 4 years now. I chose to
install 2 PMags on my new IO-360 from AeroSport - and am Very Pleased to
this point. With 2 PMags I've got to have a LOT of failures for the
engine to stop: battery, alternator, and both PMags. They are easy to
install (bolt them in any way you want) and time (put #1 cylinder on TDC
and blow into the manifold pressure tube a couple times).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Governor Install / XP-360 |
Call Superior and let them know what you need. They'll get the right studs
to you in no time. I'm a bit surprised you don't already have the studs;
are you sure the engine is for a constant speed? Is the prop oil line
installed? Mine, which I built at the build school, came with the studs.
Anyway, I can vouch for Superior's tech support. In fact, I called about
the tach drive earlier this week and the chief mechanic himself gave me the
info I needed. They'll get you straightened out and hooked up.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A N156PK - waiting for Airworthiness Inspection.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dwight Frye
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 1:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Governor Install / XP-360
I'm working on FWF and engine install activities, and got to the point
where I was ready to install my prop governor. I'm trying to install the
MT governor that Van's provides in the FWF kit, on a Superior XP-360
engine. As provided from the factory the XP-360 has a cover plate over
the prop governor drive pad, with a Superior-supplied gasket under the
plate.
As I read through the MT install instructions they discuss installing
the governor over four studs coming off the governor drive pad, with
specific torque values (of course). All nice in simple ... except I
don't have any studs. Instead the cover plate is held on with bolts.
I assume the -right- path is to acquire the correct studs for the MT
governor installation, install the studs into the drive pad, then install
the governor (as called out in the instructions) with the newly installed
studs.
Can someone confirm that my assumptions are correct? And, if oneone is
using the XP-360/MT Governor combination, did your engine come set up
the same way? And ... finally ... does anyone happen to already know
the correct studs to order? Thanks!
-- Dwight (going back to do "other stuff" while I wait to
get an answer on the prop governor question ... )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: dimple speed mods |
Thanks guys! I kinda figured it was too good to be true. There is always a
trade off.
Cheers..
Evan
Message -----
From: "Dan Morrow" <DanFM01(at)butter.toast.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: dimple speed mods
>
>> Yes, I was suckered into trying it. I put it on the Warnke wood prop
>> on my Rv6A and the max RPM which had been 2550 was now 2800 and he
>> throttle wasn't even full open.
>>
>> The tape reduced speed to a dangerous level with significant handling
>> reducing qualities.
>
> Sounds like the tape may have been working but you would need a higher
> pitched prop to use it. Obviously it's not practical for the average
> person to obtain a selection of props to experiment with. I wonder if
> it might work better with a constant speed.
>>
>>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
9:53 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Some folks are too young to know or remember that the original ELTs were
NEVER designed to be detected by satellites. Only 15 years after ELTs
were mandated was satellites monitoring introduced. So you revert to the
status ELTs had before 1985. If you really believe that being rescued in
8-12 hours rather than 24 hours is going to make that big a difference,
feel free to spend the money. ELTs haven't had too many faults alarms,
but a lot of false alarms. Some of us actually flew before the
government cared whether anyone found us or not. You don't know much
about radios if you believe 100mw is only a walkie talkie range. The
effective power of that ELT is about as good as your handheld radios in
real life.
People will still look for you, it just won't be on the basis of a
satellite sounding the alarm. Airliners will still be required to
monitor the frequency. ATC facilities will still have the frequency. I'd
think a jet pilot would know this, but guess not.
At least one company has published a MSRP of $600 once their product
gets its TSO certification, so the market just might drive prices down.
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Here is my opinion. If you are buying a new, get the 406. The do cost
> 3 to 4 times as much. They do have 5 yr batteries which is good. The
> fact still remains, satellites are going dark, and really all you will
> have is a 100mw 121.5 elt that has a range of a kids walkie talkie.
>
> I won't go into why 406 is better technically, but the cost for faults
> alarms every year is huge. The 406 is suppose to reduce this because
> they are registered and more accurate.
>
> Bottom line is people will not be looking for you with an old ELT,
> because no one will hear it.
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Governor Install / XP-360 |
Patrick,
I'll give 'em a call. And, yes, the prop oil line is installed. Thanks
for the heads up on their tech support!
-- Dwight
On Sat Oct 25 20:00:20 2008, Patrick Kelley wrote :
>Call Superior and let them know what you need. They'll get the right studs
>to you in no time. I'm a bit surprised you don't already have the studs;
>are you sure the engine is for a constant speed? Is the prop oil line
>installed? Mine, which I built at the build school, came with the studs.
>Anyway, I can vouch for Superior's tech support. In fact, I called about
>the tach drive earlier this week and the chief mechanic himself gave me the
>info I needed. They'll get you straightened out and hooked up.
>
>Patrick Kelley - RV-6A N156PK - waiting for Airworthiness Inspection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
In the military we monitor 243.0 as well...and there are alot of military a
ircraft in the skies at any one time.=0A=0APaul Besing=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______
__________________________=0AFrom: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>=0AT
o: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 5:50:36 PM=0ASu
cMullen =0A=0ASome folks are too young to know or reme
mber that the original ELTs were =0ANEVER designed to be detected by satell
ites. Only 15 years after ELTs =0Awere mandated was satellites monitoring i
ntroduced. So you revert to the =0Astatus ELTs had before 1985. If you real
ly believe that being rescued in =0A8-12 hours rather than 24 hours is goin
g to make that big a difference, =0Afeel free to spend the money. ELTs have
n't had too many faults alarms, =0Abut a lot of false alarms. Some of us ac
tually flew before the =0Agovernment cared whether anyone found us or not.
You don't know much =0Aabout radios if you believe 100mw is only a walkie t
alkie range. The =0Aeffective power of that ELT is about as good as your ha
ndheld radios in =0Areal life.=0APeople will still look for you, it just wo
n't be on the basis of a =0Asatellite sounding the alarm. Airliners will st
ill be required to =0Amonitor the frequency. ATC facilities will still have
the frequency. I'd =0Athink a jet pilot would know this, but guess not.=0A
At least one company has published a MSRP of $600 once their product =0Aget
s its TSO certification, so the market just might drive prices down.=0A=0Ag
mcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:=0A> Here is my opinion. If you are buying a new
, get the 406. The do cost =0A> 3 to 4 times as much. They do have 5 yr bat
teries which is good. The =0A> fact still remains, satellites are going dar
k, and really all you will =0A> have is a 100mw 121.5 elt that has a range
of a kids walkie talkie.=0A>- =0A> I won't go into why 406 is better tech
nically, but the cost for faults =0A> alarms every year is huge. The 406 is
suppose to reduce this because =0A> they are registered and more accurate.
=0A>- =0A> Bottom line is people will not be looking for you with an old
=====================0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
Kelly,
Can you name the company coming out with the $600 ELT, and when they expect
to have this in the marketplace? I'm needing one very soon for my almost
completed RV-6A.
This July I had an email exchange with Ameri-King's Victor Van, concerning
their development of a 406 mhz unit. He said they had a 406 model AK-451
selling for $849 ready to ship. Did anyone take notice of this product, it
was supposed to be displayed during Airventure at the Cessna Aircraft Booth
inside the Cessna Skycatcher.
Seem strange that I've not seen this yet on their web site and that Van's
had not yet added to their Catalog.
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: 406 ELT
Some folks are too young to know or remember that the original ELTs were
NEVER designed to be detected by satellites. Only 15 years after ELTs
were mandated was satellites monitoring introduced. So you revert to the
status ELTs had before 1985. If you really believe that being rescued in
8-12 hours rather than 24 hours is going to make that big a difference,
feel free to spend the money. ELTs haven't had too many faults alarms,
but a lot of false alarms. Some of us actually flew before the
government cared whether anyone found us or not. You don't know much
about radios if you believe 100mw is only a walkie talkie range. The
effective power of that ELT is about as good as your handheld radios in
real life.
People will still look for you, it just won't be on the basis of a
satellite sounding the alarm. Airliners will still be required to
monitor the frequency. ATC facilities will still have the frequency. I'd
think a jet pilot would know this, but guess not.
At least one company has published a MSRP of $600 once their product
gets its TSO certification, so the market just might drive prices down.
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Here is my opinion. If you are buying a new, get the 406. The do cost
> 3 to 4 times as much. They do have 5 yr batteries which is good. The
> fact still remains, satellites are going dark, and really all you will
> have is a 100mw 121.5 elt that has a range of a kids walkie talkie.
>
> I won't go into why 406 is better technically, but the cost for faults
> alarms every year is huge. The 406 is suppose to reduce this because
> they are registered and more accurate.
>
> Bottom line is people will not be looking for you with an old ELT,
> because no one will hear it.
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
http://www.ackavionics.com/index.html
Emrath wrote:
>
> Kelly,
>
> Can you name the company coming out with the $600 ELT, and when they expect
> to have this in the marketplace? I'm needing one very soon for my almost
> completed RV-6A.
>
> This July I had an email exchange with Ameri-King's Victor Van, concerning
> their development of a 406 mhz unit. He said they had a 406 model AK-451
> selling for $849 ready to ship. Did anyone take notice of this product, it
> was supposed to be displayed during Airventure at the Cessna Aircraft Booth
> inside the Cessna Skycatcher.
>
> Seem strange that I've not seen this yet on their web site and that Van's
> had not yet added to their Catalog.
>
>
> From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: 406 ELT
>
>
> Some folks are too young to know or remember that the original ELTs were
> NEVER designed to be detected by satellites. Only 15 years after ELTs
> were mandated was satellites monitoring introduced. So you revert to the
> status ELTs had before 1985. If you really believe that being rescued in
> 8-12 hours rather than 24 hours is going to make that big a difference,
> feel free to spend the money. ELTs haven't had too many faults alarms,
> but a lot of false alarms. Some of us actually flew before the
> government cared whether anyone found us or not. You don't know much
> about radios if you believe 100mw is only a walkie talkie range. The
> effective power of that ELT is about as good as your handheld radios in
> real life.
> People will still look for you, it just won't be on the basis of a
> satellite sounding the alarm. Airliners will still be required to
> monitor the frequency. ATC facilities will still have the frequency. I'd
> think a jet pilot would know this, but guess not.
> At least one company has published a MSRP of $600 once their product
> gets its TSO certification, so the market just might drive prices down.
>
> gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> Here is my opinion. If you are buying a new, get the 406. The do cost
>> 3 to 4 times as much. They do have 5 yr batteries which is good. The
>> fact still remains, satellites are going dark, and really all you will
>> have is a 100mw 121.5 elt that has a range of a kids walkie talkie.
>>
>> I won't go into why 406 is better technically, but the cost for faults
>> alarms every year is huge. The 406 is suppose to reduce this because
>> they are registered and more accurate.
>>
>> Bottom line is people will not be looking for you with an old ELT,
>> because no one will hear it.
>> *
>> *
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
Personally I have no concern whether someone buys a 406 MHz ELT.
However, if the assertion that ELTs do not activate in around 50% of
crashes is factual, why spend more on an ELT than you need to. It is
not a reliable device to save you if you live or recover you if you die.
If either of these two scenarios concern you then I suggest buying an
inexpensive 121.5 MHz ELT just to satisfy FAA requirements.
Then buy a Spot system and get the tracking service. An alternative
is APRS but coverage may not be as good. It is less expensive. You
have to evaluate each and determine which is better.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Riffel" <riffeljl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oiling and Starting New AeroSport Engine w/ 2 PMags |
Patrick,
If by "CBs" you mean circuit breakers, then the answer is Yes (actually ATC
fuses a la Nuckolls book). I also have disable switches for each PMag that
turn that units power off
Like you, I initially thought just disabling the power would allow me to
crank the engine to get oil pressure without firing.
BUT, that won't work for PMags because they've got an internal alternator
that keeps them running if they loose ships power (which is one of the
reasons I chose them - no dual batteries or aux alternator required). So if
I crank the engine w/ both fuses pulled then the PMags would fire anyway
because their own alternators would kick in. They only way they don't fire
is if the P-lead is grounded. And when I turn the ignition switch to Start -
both P-leads are ungrounded at that point.
BTW, in case you're wondering why I have disable switches, the switches
will be used on run-up to test that the engine Doesn't Stop when power is
lost (ie that the internal alternator is working). I'll have to use the
ignition switch to ground the P-lead to one PMag and use the disable switch
to turn power off to the other PMag. If the engine continues to run then the
internal alternator for that PMag is working fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | was 406 ELT; now APRS |
Scott wrote:
>
> Of course, as a ham radio operator, I deplore the use of APRS UNLESS
> the user has an amateur radio license as IS REQUIRED by FCC rules. We
> hams have had to endure "pirate" use of our frequencies for years. So,
> if you do wish to use APRS, take a few days to study and pass your ham
> ticket and then go crazy with APRS. It could be a very useful tool
> should you ever find yourself in the need! Plus, you'll have another
> hobby should you lose your medical :)
>
> Scott
> Amateur radio station N0EDV
Scott,
You are absolutely correct in stating that at least a Tech license is
needed in order to operate/control an APRS tracker.
APRS is a subject that has received a tremendous amount of interest and
traffic on the VAF forum this year. In case you are not familiar with
our forum (1060 posts), please take some time to browse:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/forumdisplay.php?f=104
As you will find, those of us active on the forum have been very clear
in pointing out the necessity of the radio license.
Any members of this forum who have not yet explored APRS are welcome to
join us on the VAF APRS forum. APRS is a fascinating application of
digital radio technology that has wide ranging safety implications for
aviation.
Sam Buchanan
track N399SB; http://aprs.fi/?call=N399SB&mt=m&z=10&timerange=3600
My APRS installation; http://thervjournal.com/tracker.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Emrath
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: 406 ELT
Kelly,
Can you name the company coming out with the $600 ELT, and when they expect
to have this in the marketplace? I'm needing one very soon for my almost
completed RV-6A.
Kelly: I think you are referring to ACK. The last I knew the unit was
ready except for the Friendlies formal anointing. Now their website says
shipping in January 09.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Prop Governor Install / XP-360 |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
You will need SL31C-19 studs for the MT prop governor.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Kelley
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 7:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop Governor Install / XP-360
Call Superior and let them know what you need. They'll get the right
studs
to you in no time. I'm a bit surprised you don't already have the
studs;
are you sure the engine is for a constant speed? Is the prop oil line
installed? Mine, which I built at the build school, came with the
studs.
Anyway, I can vouch for Superior's tech support. In fact, I called
about
the tach drive earlier this week and the chief mechanic himself gave me
the
info I needed. They'll get you straightened out and hooked up.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A N156PK - waiting for Airworthiness Inspection.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dwight Frye
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 1:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop Governor Install / XP-360
I'm working on FWF and engine install activities, and got to the point
where I was ready to install my prop governor. I'm trying to install the
MT governor that Van's provides in the FWF kit, on a Superior XP-360
engine. As provided from the factory the XP-360 has a cover plate over
the prop governor drive pad, with a Superior-supplied gasket under the
plate.
As I read through the MT install instructions they discuss installing
the governor over four studs coming off the governor drive pad, with
specific torque values (of course). All nice in simple ... except I
don't have any studs. Instead the cover plate is held on with bolts.
I assume the -right- path is to acquire the correct studs for the MT
governor installation, install the studs into the drive pad, then
install
the governor (as called out in the instructions) with the newly
installed
studs.
Can someone confirm that my assumptions are correct? And, if oneone is
using the XP-360/MT Governor combination, did your engine come set up
the same way? And ... finally ... does anyone happen to already know
the correct studs to order? Thanks!
-- Dwight (going back to do "other stuff" while I wait to
get an answer on the prop governor question ... )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | When Did ELT's first come availible? |
When I got my licence in 66, and again got coml/multi in 69, They were
not in use, at least not that I knew of. I never flew again untill 2003,
when of course they were required. Anyone know when they first became
availible/ requirement? Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: When Did ELT's first come availible? |
Canada was requiring around 1972. Congressmen Nick Begich(AK) and Hale
Boggs(LA) disappeared on a flight in Alaska during 1972 campaign, and by
the time I bought my first plane in spring of 1975 they were required in
the US, as had to install one as part of pre-purchase. Don't believe any
of the trainers I flew in 1973-74 getting my license had them.
Charles Heathco wrote:
> When I got my licence in 66, and again got coml/multi in 69, They were
> not in use, at least not that I knew of. I never flew again untill
> 2003, when of course they were required. Anyone know when they first
> became availible/ requirement? Charlie Heathco
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | When Did ELT's first come availible? |
I got my license in 1973 and bought a T-craft that year that had a EBC-102
ELT (the cheap yellow one with the swinging weight) so it was required by
then.
Regards,
Greg Young
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 8:36 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: When Did ELT's first come availible?
>
>
> Canada was requiring around 1972. Congressmen Nick Begich(AK) and Hale
> Boggs(LA) disappeared on a flight in Alaska during 1972
> campaign, and by the time I bought my first plane in spring
> of 1975 they were required in the US, as had to install one
> as part of pre-purchase. Don't believe any of the trainers I
> flew in 1973-74 getting my license had them.
>
> Charles Heathco wrote:
> > When I got my licence in 66, and again got coml/multi in
> 69, They were
> > not in use, at least not that I knew of. I never flew again untill
> > 2003, when of course they were required. Anyone know when
> they first
> > became availible/ requirement? Charlie Heathco
> > *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | 406 mhz vs 121.5 |
Dear Emrath
''Only 15 years after ELTs
were mandated was satellites monitoring introduced. So you revert to the
status ELTs had before 1985. If you really believe that being rescued in
8-12 hours rather than 24 hours is going to make that big a difference,
feel free to spend the money.''
Well I'm old enough and I will spend the money regardless of the
fact that the Canadian MOT has made it compulsory as of Feb 2009.
As an ex-Air Force Search and Rescue crew for many years I've got to tell you that
8-12 hours vs 24 hours will make a world of difference if you're down in
the bush with your family being injured or not.
The standard 121.5 ELTs are notoriously know for being subject to false alarms
( Ask me how many times I had to get airborne in a hurry to chase what turned
out to be a false alarm) or trying to home on a beacon in the mountains with the
signal bouncing off the mountain's sides....
The 406 MHZ ELTs have 5 times the transmit power, can be co-located with GPS and
have a much better accuracy....
Gentlement, if you are able to afford an airplane, you sure as hell can afford
a much better device that will increase your chances of being rescue by a factor
too great to put a price tag on it...
If you don't care, ask your family what they think.....
Regards
Bruno Dionne
rv4(at)videotron.ca
C-GDBH RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Dear Listers,
I spent a lot of time staring at those plastic brake lines for the low pressure
side and just didn't like a thing about them. Just imagine if one were to break
and what a mess all the brake fluid all over the cockpit would be like.
After some thought, I came up with the following system for the low pressure feed.
I used standard AN 1/4" fittings and aluminum tubing to bring the fluid from
the reservoir to a tee fitting and then to bulkhead fittings that connect
to standard Aeroquip hoses to the master calendars. Yeah, it was a little more
weight, but the peace of mind is worth it.
But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second bulkhead, I
kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the vent. This also positioned
tee fitting nicely to feed the left and right sides. The top of that
loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top of the reservoir, though. Is the flow
from the reservoir to the master cylinders suppose to be basically "gravity
fed" or is the "pump" action from the master cylinders all that is necessary
to keep the tube and master cylinders full?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Martin & Chris <aerobiz(at)optusnet.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 10/28/08 |
Matt,
In my experience, the reservoir feeds the master cylinder by gravity. I
don't think there is any suction from the m/c.
Cheers
Martin
>
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I spent a lot of time staring at those plastic brake lines for the low pressure
> side and just didn't like a thing about them. Just imagine if one were to break
> and what a mess all the brake fluid all over the cockpit would be like.
>
> After some thought, I came up with the following system for the low pressure
feed.
> I used standard AN 1/4" fittings and aluminum tubing to bring the fluid from
> the reservoir to a tee fitting and then to bulkhead fittings that connect
> to standard Aeroquip hoses to the master calendars. Yeah, it was a little more
> weight, but the peace of mind is worth it.
>
> But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second bulkhead,
I
> kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the vent. This also positioned
> tee fitting nicely to feed the left and right sides. The top of that
> loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top of the reservoir, though. Is the flow
> from the reservoir to the master cylinders suppose to be basically "gravity
> fed" or is the "pump" action from the master cylinders all that is necessary
> to keep the tube and master cylinders full?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Matt,
If a leak develops anywhere in the system that could draw air into the
lines, the air will migrate to the highest point in the system which is that
loop. The air would displace fluid in the loop and could allow fluid to leak
from the air vent on the top of the reservoir. May never happen but the
system should allow fluid to gravity feed from the reservoir to the
cylinders and any air bubbles to the reservoir..
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 9:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I spent a lot of time staring at those plastic brake lines for the low
> pressure side and just didn't like a thing about them. Just imagine if
> one were to break and what a mess all the brake fluid all over the cockpit
> would be like.
>
> After some thought, I came up with the following system for the low
> pressure feed. I used standard AN 1/4" fittings and aluminum tubing to
> bring the fluid from the reservoir to a tee fitting and then to bulkhead
> fittings that connect to standard Aeroquip hoses to the master calendars.
> Yeah, it was a little more weight, but the peace of mind is worth it.
>
> But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second
> bulkhead, I kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the vent.
> This also positioned tee fitting nicely to feed the left and right sides.
> The top of that loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top of the
> reservoir, though. Is the flow from the reservoir to the master cylinders
> suppose to be basically "gravity fed" or is the "pump" action from the
> master cylinders all that is necessary to keep the tube and master
> cylinders full?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
I believe you need the reservour above the lines, but this looks like a
question for the Vans guys for sure. Also havent heard of the "plastic"
lines ever breaking. Chas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | 406 mhz vs 121.5 |
Hello Marty
My apologies if I mistaken you with someone else on the
list.
Your ''name'' appeared at the top of the post and that is probably where I
made a mistake
I will post a new post on the list to reflect this...
Again my apologies
Bruno
p.s: I'm glad you are considering the new 406 MHZ ''ELT'' by the way...:-)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 9:49 PM
Subject: [!! SPAM] RV-List: 406 mhz vs 121.5
Dear Bruno,
I'm not sure what caused you to address me in this fashion, somehow
suggesting that I was against the 406MHZ change. I think you have me
confused with someone else on the RV list. Here's my last post to the
RV-List on this subject wherein I was asking the previous poster Kelly,
where one can obtain a $600 406MHZ ELT :
Kelly,
Can you name the company coming out with the $600 ELT, and when they expect
to have this in the marketplace? I'm needing one very soon for my almost
completed RV-6A.
This July I had an email exchange with Ameri-King's Victor Van, concerning
their development of a 406 mhz unit. He said they had a 406 model AK-451
selling for $849 ready to ship. Did anyone take notice of this product, it
was supposed to be displayed during Airventure at the Cessna Aircraft Booth
inside the Cessna Skycatcher.
Seem strange that I've not seen this yet on their web site and that Van's
had not yet added to their Catalog.
Marty
From: Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: RV-List: 406 mhz vs 121.5
Dear Emrath
''Only 15 years after ELTs
were mandated was satellites monitoring introduced. So you revert to the
status ELTs had before 1985. If you really believe that being rescued in
8-12 hours rather than 24 hours is going to make that big a difference,
feel free to spend the money.''
----------------------------------------
Well I'm old enough and I will spend the money regardless of
the fact that the Canadian MOT has made it compulsory as of Feb 2009.
As an ex-Air Force Search and Rescue crew for many years I've got to tell
you that 8-12 hours vs 24 hours will make a world of difference if you're
down in the bush with your family being injured or not.
The standard 121.5 ELTs are notoriously know for being subject to false
alarms ( Ask me how many times I had to get airborne in a hurry to chase
what turned out to be a false alarm) or trying to home on a beacon in the
mountains with the signal bouncing off the mountain's sides....
The 406 MHZ ELTs have 5 times the transmit power, can be co-located with GPS
and have a much better accuracy....
Gentlement, if you are able to afford an airplane, you sure as hell can
afford a much better device that will increase your chances of being rescue
by a factor too great to put a price tag on it...
If you don't care, ask your family what they think.....
Regards
Bruno Dionne
rv4(at)videotron.ca
C-GDBH RV-4
Marty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <scottam65(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 / 6a kits for sale |
RV-6 / 6a kits for sale.
Empennage: Complete except for fiberglass tips. Includes electric elevator
trim kit. All parts are alodined and primed with Marhyde primer.
Wings & Phlogiston Spar: Both skeletons fully assembled. Top skins
riveted. Both tanks are complete and sealed. Flaps and ailerons complete,
but not fitted. Includes electric aileron trim kit. All parts are alodined
and primed with Deft epoxy primer (Mil-P-23377G).
Both kits are the pre-punched versions purchased in 1997 & 1998 by myself.
Construction is excellent. Preview plans and Orndorff videos are included
for both kits.
Detailed photos are available upon request.
Must sell. The first $3750 takes it all. Buyer arranges transportation.
If all items were purchased separately the price would be more than $6500
for the unassembled kits.
Regards,
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
716-510-0318- cell
scottam65(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Yes, Matt, it's supposed to gravity feed to the cylinders. I did not like the
plastic lines, but I have also not heard of them leaking. I like to see the plastic
lines (working on the brakes of an RV-6 right now) and can clearly see
air (or lack of fluid in this case!) in the clear lines to the cylinders. Van's
resevoir has the breathable cap so that you can allow the air to escape to
the high point in the system (although there are many times this just doesn't
happen, unfortunately)
Paul Besing
________________________________
From: Charles Heathco <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 5:09:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
I believe you need the reservour above the lines,
but this looks like a question for the Vans guys for sure. Also havent heard of
the "plastic" lines ever breaking. Chas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5 |
$600 406 mhz ELT? ACK may be out now or just coming out with a $600 406 aviation
ELT. See their web site.
http://www.ackavionics.com/
I posted that PLB's (portable personal beacons) go for $600 to $700. They do
not qualify as an aircraft ELT. Handy yes but not FAA approved.
Most aviation ELT's (406) that I have prices start at just under $1000.
Artex ME406 under $1000.
AmeriKing is $906 on sale.
EBC 406 under $1000
ACK (in market 2008?) $600
KANNAD (French company) about $2000)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Off Topic: AV80R vs ATC GPS |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5 |
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> $600 406 mhz ELT? ACK may be out now or just coming out with a $600
> 406 aviation ELT. See their web site.
>
> http://www.ackavionics.com/
>
> I posted that PLB's (portable personal beacons) go for $600 to $700.
> They do not qualify as an aircraft ELT. Handy yes but not FAA approved.
Since the FAA has MANDATED that your A/C have an ELT (121.5 / 243).....
just keep it. Since the FAA hasn't mandated anything for the 406 .....
yet ..... (it may come anyway) ..... then the $600 PLB would seem to be
money well spent.
Linn
>
>
> Most aviation ELT's (406) that I have prices start at just under $1000.
>
> Artex ME406 under $1000.
> AmeriKing is $906 on sale.
> EBC 406 under $1000
> ACK (in market 2008?) $600
> KANNAD (French company) about $2000)
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Hernandez <carlosh(at)structuralaz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: AV80R vs ATC GPS |
Tom Velvick here in AZ was a beta tester for AV8OR unit. He has good
things to say about it. Here's a thread on VAF all about it with some
pic's from Tom.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=32505&highlight=AV80R
Carlos in AZ
Michael Kraus wrote:
> Has anyone seen either or both of these handheld units, the
> Bendix-King AV8OR or the Anywhere Map ATC? I'm looking for a small
> backup GPS and they both look nice, are about the same price, but I
> have not actually seen or played with either.
> Thanks
> -Mike
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 10:18 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Air Box Mounting Plate
>
> We made our second one out of 0.090 material....
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From: ferrerg(at)comcast.net
> Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 9:37 AM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Air Box Mounting Plate
>
> The last two times that I did my conditional inspection I found
> that my air box mounting aluminum plate was cracked.
>
> The first time I made a new mounting plate and tried to eliminate as
> many stress risers as I could. But it cracked again.
>
> This time I'm having a machine shop cut the rear hole behind
> the carburetor air intake (needed to clear the rear part of
> the carburetor) with a water cutting tool.
>
> I'm hoping that a smoother cut will prevent stress risers.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions that may prevent the cracking?
> --
> Gabe A Ferrer
> RV6 N2GX
> South Florida's Treasure Coast
> email: ferrerg(at)comcast.net
> cell: 561 758 8894
> *
>
> ==========
> //www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> ==========
> ics.com
> ==========
> matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
> *
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Checked by AVG.
>
--
Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Structural Engineers Company
2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
Chandler, AZ 85224
Phone: 480.968.8600
Fax: 480.968.8608
www.sec-engr.com
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged.
This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or
organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or
an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and
its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is
prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email
from your system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Divan <n343fd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: AV80R vs ATC GPS |
I have the Anywhere Map ATC.
Not a bad unit. Before that I had the Lorwance 600C and I love it the screen is
just to small for my 50 year old eyes. In fact it is still in the plane and used
over in the right side every flight. If the Lorwance had WX or traffic I would
have gone with the Lorwance 2000C. If they ever do get one of those features
I will get it in a heart beat. The ATC is inexpensive and it works ok. I
do not have WX yet and I hear they are Beta testing the traffic (which is what
I really want). The best feature of the ATV in my view is you can update it almost
every day for $115 a year or around $400 lifetime. do not think any one
else comes close to that in price. The lorwance is $35 or so every update. The
ATC does have its quriks but nothing real bad as far as I have seen so far.
It did lock up on me once but only once and that might have been me pushing buttons
to fast. If you are near SoCal you are welcome to check it out.
Mike Divan
N64GH - RV6 (flying)
http://n64gh.blogspot.com/
FREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOURS!
________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 11:44:44 AM
Subject: RV-List: Off Topic: AV80R vs ATC GPS
Has anyone seen either or both of these handheld units, the Bendix-King AV8OR or
the Anywhere Map ATC? I'm looking for a small backup GPS and they both look
nice, are about the same price, but I have not actually seen or played with either.
Thanks
-Mike
________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 10:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Air Box Mounting Plate
We made our second one out of 0.090 material....
________________________________
From: ferrerg(at)comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 9:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Air Box Mounting Plate
The last two times that I did my conditional inspection I found that my air box
mounting aluminum plate was cracked.
The first time I made a new mounting plate and tried to eliminate as many stress
risers as I could. But it cracked again.
This time I'm having a machine shop cut the rear hole behind the carburetor air
intake (needed to clear the rear part of the carburetor) with a water cutting
tool.
I'm hoping that a smoother cut will prevent stress risers.
Does anyone have any suggestions that may prevent the cracking?
--
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX
South Florida's Treasure Coast
email: ferrerg(at)comcast.net
cell: 561 758 8894
==========
//www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
==========
ics.com
==========
matronics.com/contribution
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5 |
Linn not to argue but are you not forgetting that you might die? A ELT in theory
could bring help and save your life or your passengers life. A 121.5 Mhz ELT
only is pretty useless and even more useless in a few months when 243 Mhz tracking
goes away. A PLB cost at least $600, where a ACK aircraft ELT cost $600
and will meet future needs. Just my 0.02 worth, Cheers
PS the 406 ELT mandate IS COMING, it has to. It cost millions and millions a
year to track down false alarms. The good news is 243Mhz satellites are going
going gone. 121.5 is not tacked but satellites and has a very short range, so
it's unlikely any one will even look for you, saving tax payers money.
>From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5
>>gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>> $600 406 mhz ELT? ACK may be out now or just coming out with a $600
>> 406 aviation ELT. See their web site.
>>
>> http://www.ackavionics.com/
>just keep it. Since the FAA hasn't mandated anything for the 406 .....
> yet ..... (it may come anyway) ..... then the $600 PLB would seem to
>be money well spent.
>Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5 |
George, satellite monitoring of 121.5 MHz (and 243 MHz) is going away.
Aircraft may well monitor that frequency for many years.
http://www.sarsat.noaa.gov/Phase-outFinal.pdf
It was reported (not verified by me) that Fossett had a 406 MHz unit. I
have
seen nothing to say that 406 MHz units will be more reliable so ELTs in
my
opinion are mandated dead weight.
I have a 406 MHz PLB and will install an APRS (requires a ham license)
someday.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 11:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5
Linn not to argue but are you not forgetting that you might die? A ELT
in theory could bring help and save your life or your passengers life. A
121.5 Mhz ELT only is pretty useless and even more useless in a few
months when 243 Mhz tracking goes away. A PLB cost at least $600, where
a ACK aircraft ELT cost $600 and will meet future needs. Just my 0.02
worth, Cheers
PS the 406 ELT mandate IS COMING, it has to. It cost millions and
millions a year to track down false alarms. The good news is 243Mhz
satellites are going going gone. 121.5 is not tacked but satellites and
has a very short range, so it's unlikely any one will even look for you,
saving tax payers money.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5 |
What hard evidence do you have that the FAA will
mandate 406 MHz ELTs for retrofit?
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5 |
I doubt if any type of ELT/PLB/APRS will survive flying onto the face of
a
mountain.
Bruce
<http://www.glasair.org/> www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5
George, satellite monitoring of 121.5 MHz (and 243 MHz) is going away.
Aircraft may well monitor that frequency for many years.
http://www.sarsat.noaa.gov/Phase-outFinal.pdf
It was reported (not verified by me) that Fossett had a 406 MHz unit. I
have
seen nothing to say that 406 MHz units will be more reliable so ELTs in
my
opinion are mandated dead weight.
I have a 406 MHz PLB and will install an APRS (requires a ham license)
someday.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 11:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5
Linn not to argue but are you not forgetting that you might die? A ELT
in
theory could bring help and save your life or your passengers life. A
121.5
Mhz ELT only is pretty useless and even more useless in a few months
when
243 Mhz tracking goes away. A PLB cost at least $600, where a ACK
aircraft
ELT cost $600 and will meet future needs. Just my 0.02 worth, Cheers
PS the 406 ELT mandate IS COMING, it has to. It cost millions and
millions a
year to track down false alarms. The good news is 243Mhz satellites are
going going gone. 121.5 is not tacked but satellites and has a very
short
range, so it's unlikely any one will even look for you, saving tax
payers
money.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5 |
MessageBut an APRS (or Spot) will leave position reports that will
provide far better
info to rescue/recover someone than an ELT.
One article stated (not verified) that ELTs do not activate in a large
number
of crashes (maybe it was 50% or more). Or maybe it was over 70%. I
do not recall. Regardless, that is a poor value that further supports
my
opinion that an ELT is just mandated dead weight.
I have a better chance of recovery/rescue using flight following.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Gray
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 1:52 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5
I doubt if any type of ELT/PLB/APRS will survive flying onto the face
of a mountain.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gas card discount |
Air Nav advertises a gas discount card (Air Boss) that promises lower
fuel prices at participating dealers. Has anyone tried it and is it
worth it?
Dave @ RAL --- RV 7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November! |
Dear Listers,
Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation
and upgrade of the List services at Matronics. It's through soley through the
Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible.
You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site ( http://forums.matronics.com ), Wiki site ( http://wiki.matronics.com ), or other related pages such as the List Search Engine ( http://www.matronics.com/search ), List Browse ( http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse ), etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisments.
During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every few days
reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience
and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages.
The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the
bills associated with running these lists. Your personal Contribution counts.
Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with
the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided
by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and
have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates.
This year, these generous people include Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection (http://www.aeroelectric.com/), Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (http://www.buildersbooks.com/), and Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/).
These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective
web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product
line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Andy, and Jon for their generous support
of the Lists again this year!!
You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this
year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods
afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with
a qualifying Contribution amount!!
To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral
support over the years. I know it sounds a little cliche, but you guys really
do feel like family.
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Another Brake Question |
My last post was a question about my brakes on the -6 as they only had a bit
over 100 hours on them. I have received my new brake pads and the tool and
replaced the brakes on the left side. Now I am on to the right side and
find the brakes on that side are not worn out. Is it OK to leave them as is
and only replace the one side? Also, what might cause one side to wear more
than the other like that? Maybe I turn that way more often I don't know.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Contribution Site URL Clarification |
Dear Listers,
In my List Fund Raiser kickoff email last night, I mistyped the URL for the *initial*
Contribution web site and couple of people reported receiving SSL certificate
errors. The actual payment entry pages where were correct, however, so
there were no certificate issues that impacted payment data. I'm sorry for the
confusion.
Please use the following URL to start your List Contribution:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Brake Question |
Tim,
It is perfectly OK to do only one side. Most pilots use more right brake, just
as they use right rudder on take off.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Sat, 11/1/08, Tim Bryan wrote:
> From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Another Brake Question
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, November 1, 2008, 11:03 AM
>
>
> My last post was a question about my brakes on the -6 as
> they only had a bit
> over 100 hours on them. I have received my new brake pads
> and the tool and
> replaced the brakes on the left side. Now I am on to the
> right side and
> find the brakes on that side are not worn out. Is it OK to
> leave them as is
> and only replace the one side? Also, what might cause one
> side to wear more
> than the other like that? Maybe I turn that way more often
> I don't know.
> Tim
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5 |
Ron Fossett flew straight into the side of a mountain. Type of ELT? I have not
seen it was a 406Mhz. Even if it was installed properly, it likely (I am guessing)
would not have survived the straight in accident. That is way they say install
(as required) ELT's in he most aft end of the plane.
Even so you are right ELT's do's make unsurvivable accidents survivable, I concede
the point.
The specs of the 406Mhz, battery and they technology ARE WAY BETTER. That is
not debatable. 5 watt burst on 406Mhz that can pinpoint to a relatively small
area with ID of plane and owner is WAY WAY Better. Why the resistance. Is it really
the lousy $600 or $1000. Gosh I burn 8ga/hr or $40 hour. 25 hours of flying
will pay for a new ELT.
(I have a Ham ticket so I know what you are talking about.) "SPOT" is a good
deal if you don't mind the subscription fee. Also you have to have some one know
you have SPOT or APRS and knows to look for you.
OLD FASHION STUFF
As I taught my students when I was an active CFI, FILE A VFR flight plan in
detail and fly the flight plan exactly. Open it accurately and close it properly.
That can make a big difference.
Fossett was probably just joy riding and no one knew his plans. That is OK in
flat lands with population, but fly over rugged remote unpopulated terrain, bye
bye. Ironically they found a plane crash from the 1960's that was never found
till they where looking for Fossett.
Cheers fly safe
>From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5
>It was reported (not verified by me) that Fossett had a 406 MHz unit.
>I have seen nothing to say that 406 MHz units will be more reliable so ELTs in
>my opinion are mandated dead weight.
>
>I have a 406 MHz PLB and will install an APRS (requires a ham license)
>someday.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Brake Question |
Tim Bryan wrote:
>
> My last post was a question about my brakes on the -6 as they only had a bit
> over 100 hours on them. I have received my new brake pads and the tool and
> replaced the brakes on the left side. Now I am on to the right side and
> find the brakes on that side are not worn out. Is it OK to leave them as is
> and only replace the one side?
Yes
> Also, what might cause one side to wear more
> than the other like that?
Chances are that the brake cylinder isn't easily riding on the pins. If
they're dirty or rusty, clean them up really good .... and put them back
together dry. No lube.
> Maybe I turn that way more often I don't know.
>
I doubt that's the case ..... of course the left side could be dragging
and wearing out the pads ..... yopu might want to clean up those pins too.
Linn
> Tim
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 10/31/08 |
No HARD evidence. It is my opinion Mr. Ron Lee after 23 years in aviation dealing
with the FAA in certification and in operations of aircraft, including Boeing,
Airline pilot and building homebuilts. It will be a matter of time. I promise
you the first famous person, politishian or family that dies 5 days after
a crash, in a remote area because they could not find their old 121.5 Mhz elt,
the new 406 Mhz will be mandated so thereafter. (Fossett was considered an adventurer
and risk taker so it did not strike a cord with the public.)
WHEN? I don't predict but it is moot. MY POINT was simple, why be a cheapskate
and resist superior ELT technology. Even AOPA says after 2009 your old ELT will
be blind to satellites. The new ELT's are more affective.
The superior technology is not debatable it is a fact, Pos ID, more power, better
batteries.....smaller search area with GPS augmentation pinpoint location.
Where do you see they will not mandate it. Mexico and Canada will require it.
Personally I think people are being foolish for the sake of a petty amount of
money out of ignorance, stubborness or both.
However I agree if you are a flat lander flying around your airport solo, you
don't even need a ELT at all (per the FAR's) much less a new one.
AOPA has fought the new ELT's on economics only, but they do recommend it be
phased in. I forgot their propaganda lobbyists position, I recall over the next
5 or 10 years, some thing like that. This is more AOPA recomendations/info.
http://www.aopa.org/advocacy/articles/2008/080904elt.html
We can agree to disagree. Cheers do as you like. Just my opinion. Don't be mad
because I disagree with you. However I have no problem with your PLB / tracking
deal. For most people it will be easier to buy a ACK $600 406Mhz ELT and forget
about it for 5 years when the battery needs to be replaced. Just opinion
and worth every penney you paid for it.
Fly Safe George
>From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5
>
>What hard evidence do you have that the FAA will
>mandate 406 MHz ELTs for retrofit?
>
>Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5 |
No HARD evidence. It is my opinion Mr. Ron Lee after 23 years in aviation dealing
with the FAA in certification and in operations of aircraft, including Boeing,
Airline pilot and building homebuilts. It will be a matter of time. I promise
you the first famous person, politishian or family that dies 5 days after
a crash, in a remote area because they could not find their old 121.5 Mhz elt,
the new 406 Mhz will be mandated so thereafter. (Fossett was considered an adventurer
and risk taker so it did not strike a cord with the public.)
WHEN? I don't predict but it is moot. MY POINT was simple, why be a cheapskate
and resist superior ELT technology. Even AOPA says after 2009 your old ELT will
be blind to satellites. The new ELT's are more affective.
The superior technology is not debatable it is a fact, Pos ID, more power, better
batteries.....smaller search area with GPS augmentation pinpoint location.
Where do you see they will not mandate it. Mexico and Canada will require it.
Personally I think people are being foolish for the sake of a petty amount of
money out of ignorance, stubborness or both.
However I agree if you are a flat lander flying around your airport solo, you
don't even need a ELT at all (per the FAR's) much less a new one.
AOPA has fought the new ELT's on economics only, but they do recommend it be
phased in. I forgot their propaganda lobbyists position, I recall over the next
5 or 10 years, some thing like that. This is more AOPA recomendations/info.
http://www.aopa.org/advocacy/articles/2008/080904elt.html
We can agree to disagree. Cheers do as you like. Just my opinion. Don't be mad
because I disagree with you. However I have no problem with your PLB / tracking
deal. For most people it will be easier to buy a ACK $600 406Mhz ELT and forget
about it for 5 years when the battery needs to be replaced. Just opinion
and worth every penney you paid for it.
Fly Safe George
>From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5
>
>What hard evidence do you have that the FAA will
>mandate 406 MHz ELTs for retrofit?
>
>Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Brake Question |
Listers,
Pardon my poor choice of words below. I should have stated that you can often
wear one the brakes out on one side due to a prevailing cross wind or a number
of other factors.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Sat, 11/1/08, Charles Kuss wrote:
> From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Brake Question
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, November 1, 2008, 12:19 PM
>
>
> Tim,
> It is perfectly OK to do only one side. Most pilots use
> more right brake, just as they use right rudder on take off.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> --- On Sat, 11/1/08, Tim Bryan
> wrote:
>
> > From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Another Brake Question
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Saturday, November 1, 2008, 11:03 AM
> Bryan"
> >
> >
> > My last post was a question about my brakes on the -6
> as
> > they only had a bit
> > over 100 hours on them. I have received my new brake
> pads
> > and the tool and
> > replaced the brakes on the left side. Now I am on to
> the
> > right side and
> > find the brakes on that side are not worn out. Is it
> OK to
> > leave them as is
> > and only replace the one side? Also, what might cause
> one
> > side to wear more
> > than the other like that? Maybe I turn that way more
> often
> > I don't know.
> > Tim
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Another Brake Question |
Thanks Linn and Charlie!
I will check how free the parts are all moving on the left side and then go
fly. Even if it wears a bit more on one side it hasn't caused me any grief
and the pads for one side are only $15.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 100 hours now
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5 |
Another thought on this issue, we are required to have 121.5 ELTs in
our aircraft, so the cost of going with the 406 MHz or not is really only
the difference between the 121.5 and the 406 MHz. Checking over on
Aircraft Spruce, I see about $450 difference. Not cheap, but I agree it
will probably be mandated eventually. Might as well have it in the plane
from the beginning.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 Mounting landing gear.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Brake Question |
linn Walters wrote:
>
> Yeah, but it's a PITA to change the pads. I would find out what's
> going on and fix it. You'd hate to have a brake go out when you
> really need it. And the cost may be more than $15 then! ;-)
'Bout thirty minutes at most on an RV. Pads can removed from the wheel
assembly in less time than it takes to remove the wheel pant.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5 |
Valid cost reasoning for NEW installations.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Huffaker" <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: 406 mhz vs 121.5
>
> Another thought on this issue, we are required to have 121.5 ELTs in
> our aircraft, so the cost of going with the 406 MHz or not is really only
> the difference between the 121.5 and the 406 MHz. Checking over on
> Aircraft Spruce, I see about $450 difference. Not cheap, but I agree it
> will probably be mandated eventually. Might as well have it in the plane
> from the beginning.
>
> Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
> RV-8A 80091 Mounting landing gear.
> 1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Dear Listers,
After some head scratching and a couple more tries, I think I came up with a new
design for the low pressure side of the brake lines. With this design, there
is a steady slope downward from the reservoir to the master calendars. Seems
to be pretty substantial. My only concern is that right feed line going through
that candy cane piece isn't really supported anywhere. Its pretty short
and solid to the touch, but vibration might cause a issue. Since the bottom floor
of the baggage area goes over the top, there's really nothing permanent I
can attach it to short of making a bracket of some kind (yuck).
So what do you guys think?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
At 06:48 PM 10/28/2008 Tuesday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>[snip]
>
>But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second bulkhead,
I kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the vent. This also positioned
tee fitting nicely to feed the left and right sides. The top of that
loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top of the reservoir, though. Is the flow
from the reservoir to the master cylinders suppose to be basically "gravity
fed" or is the "pump" action from the master cylinders all that is necessary
to keep the tube and master cylinders full?
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MikeNellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Hi Matt,
You've created a plumbing masterpiece but it's a ton of complication and
cost. Have you thought about just mounting the brake reservoir right on
the brake master cylinders?
This is similar to the set up that I've used. $22/ea.
Good luck.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/remoteFluidReservoirs.php
> Dear Listers,
>
> After some head scratching and a couple more tries, I think I came up with a
new design for the low pressure side of the brake lines. With this design, there
is a steady slope downward from the reservoir to the master calendars. Seems
to be pretty substantial. My only concern is that right feed line going through
that candy cane piece isn't really supported anywhere. Its pretty short
and solid to the touch, but vibration might cause a issue. Since the bottom
floor of the baggage area goes over the top, there's really nothing permanent
I can attach it to short of making a bracket of some kind (yuck).
>
> So what do you guys think?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Brake Question |
Agreed...I just removed both break calipers, replaced the o rings, cleaned them
thoroughly, riveted new pads, installed, safety wire, etc...all in about an hour
and a half..not a big job by any standards...
BTW, harbor freight sells a really cool one man vacuum bleed kit that you hook
air up to, and it has a nice large reservoir for collecting the brake fluid...plus
a fluid supply bottle with a ball valve...nifty...$29.
Paul Besing
________________________________
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 1, 2008 3:12:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Brake Question
linn Walters wrote:
>
> Yeah, but it's a PITA to change the pads. I would find out what's
> going on and fix it. You'd hate to have a brake go out when you
> really need it. And the cost may be more than $15 then! ;-)
'Bout thirty minutes at most on an RV. Pads can removed from the wheel
assembly in less time than it takes to remove the wheel pant.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gas card discount |
Not yet...but...speaking of gas prices...if flying through AZ and you don't stop
at St. Johns (the lowest in the state) go to CGZ Casa Grande...3.70 I paid the
other day...about a dollar cheaper than any surrounding airports.
Paul Besing
________________________________
From: David Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 9:53:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: gas card discount
Air Nav advertises a gas discount card (Air Boss) that promises lower
fuel prices at participating dealers. Has anyone tried it and is it
worth it?
Dave @ RAL --- RV 7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gas card discount |
I do not have one but know one friend that does. IIRC=2C it is only good w
hen you travel and not good at the airport you are based at.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C156+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
From: David Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Friday=2C October 31=2C 2008 9:53:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: gas card
discount
_________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Brake Question |
Paul,
You are forgetting one thing about that Harbor Freight brake bleeder tool. It's
designed for automotive gylcol based fluids, which means that it's O-rings and
seals are made from EDPM, not Nitrile or Viton. You'll need to flush out the
aircraft mineral oil based brake fluid immediately after use, if you expect
to use the thing more than a few times.
Charlie Kuss
snipped
> BTW, harbor freight sells a really cool one man vacuum
> bleed kit that you hook air up to, and it has a nice large
> reservoir for collecting the brake fluid...plus a fluid
> supply bottle with a ball valve...nifty...$29.
>
> Paul Besing
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, November 1, 2008 3:12:01 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Brake Question
>
>
>
> linn Walters wrote:
> >
> > Yeah, but it's a PITA to change the pads. I would
> find out what's
> > going on and fix it. You'd hate to have a brake
> go out when you
> > really need it. And the cost may be more than $15
> then! ;-)
>
>
> 'Bout thirty minutes at most on an RV. Pads can removed
> from the wheel
> assembly in less time than it takes to remove the wheel
> pant.
>
> Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Thank you for the feedback John. To run it parallel with the high pressure line
above it, I would have had to go up a couple of inches as it relates to the
reservoir since I have to go under the baggage floor. I was trying to make sure
that all of the run was at least slightly downward to keep gravity pulling
the fluid toward the master cylinder. Am I mis-understanding your comment?
Matt
At 08:54 AM 11/2/2008 Sunday, you wrote:
>Your workmanship is exceptional and a thing of beauty to behold.
>However, when I am performing Tech Inspections, I would caution builders
>on the use of a long continuous run as in your picture (2). I would
>have created the same sweep as the line above and run the straight line
>more parallel to the upper line.
>
>John Cox
>A&P, IA
>EAA Tech #5242
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
>Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 6:03 PM
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>After some head scratching and a couple more tries, I think I came up
>with a new design for the low pressure side of the brake lines. With
>this design, there is a steady slope downward from the reservoir to the
>master calendars. Seems to be pretty substantial. My only concern is
>that right feed line going through that candy cane piece isn't really
>supported anywhere. Its pretty short and solid to the touch, but
>vibration might cause a issue. Since the bottom floor of the baggage
>area goes over the top, there's really nothing permanent I can attach it
>to short of making a bracket of some kind (yuck).
>
>So what do you guys think?
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>
>
>At 06:48 PM 10/28/2008 Tuesday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>[snip]
>>
>>But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second
>bulkhead, I kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the
>vent. This also positioned tee fitting nicely to feed the left and
>right sides. The top of that loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top
>of the reservoir, though. Is the flow from the reservoir to the master
>cylinders suppose to be basically "gravity fed" or is the "pump" action
>from the master cylinders all that is necessary to keep the tube and
>master cylinders full?
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Ah! I understand. But those are the low pressure side so there really isn't any
"pressure" to speak of, is there? I do see your point from a best-practices
stand point and it was something that I didn't know.
Thanks!
Matt
At 09:23 AM 11/2/2008 Sunday, you wrote:
>No, however any line containing pressurized fluid contracts in length
>and expands in diameter, hence the need for flex by routing other than
>the "shortest distance between two connection points. It is spelled out
>in the AC43.13.
>
>John
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Matt Dralle [mailto:dralle(at)matronics.com]
>Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 9:16 AM
>To: John Cox
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
>
>Thank you for the feedback John. To run it parallel with the high
>pressure line above it, I would have had to go up a couple of inches as
>it relates to the reservoir since I have to go under the baggage floor.
>I was trying to make sure that all of the run was at least slightly
>downward to keep gravity pulling the fluid toward the master cylinder.
>Am I mis-understanding your comment?
>
>Matt
>
>At 08:54 AM 11/2/2008 Sunday, you wrote:
>>Your workmanship is exceptional and a thing of beauty to behold.
>>However, when I am performing Tech Inspections, I would caution
>builders
>>on the use of a long continuous run as in your picture (2). I would
>>have created the same sweep as the line above and run the straight line
>>more parallel to the upper line.
>>
>>John Cox
>>A&P, IA
>>EAA Tech #5242
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
>>Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 6:03 PM
>>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines...
>>
>>Dear Listers,
>>
>>After some head scratching and a couple more tries, I think I came up
>>with a new design for the low pressure side of the brake lines. With
>>this design, there is a steady slope downward from the reservoir to the
>>master calendars. Seems to be pretty substantial. My only concern is
>>that right feed line going through that candy cane piece isn't really
>>supported anywhere. Its pretty short and solid to the touch, but
>>vibration might cause a issue. Since the bottom floor of the baggage
>>area goes over the top, there's really nothing permanent I can attach
>it
>>to short of making a bracket of some kind (yuck).
>>
>>So what do you guys think?
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>>
>>
>>At 06:48 PM 10/28/2008 Tuesday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>>
>>>[snip]
>>>
>>>But here's my question. Notice that on the back side of the second
>>bulkhead, I kind of looped the tubing up and around the hole for the
>>vent. This also positioned tee fitting nicely to feed the left and
>>right sides. The top of that loop is maybe 4 to 5" higher than the top
>>of the reservoir, though. Is the flow from the reservoir to the master
>>cylinders suppose to be basically "gravity fed" or is the "pump" action
>>from the master cylinders all that is necessary to keep the tube and
>>master cylinders full?
>>>
>>>Matt Dralle
>>>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>
>
>Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Thanks for the tip, Mike. I actually did try these babies out. The problem on
the RV-8, though, is that with the adjustable rudder pedals at full "tall-person",
the mini-reservoir doesn't clear the firewall when the brakes are applied.
Here's a picture with one on the right master cylinder and full right rudder
applied, but no brake action. Notice that there is only about 1/16" of clearance
to the firewall. I wish that Grove had used a different fitting design
instead of just slapping a NPT M-M on the side. Its way too long. Anybody know
of a similar fitting that is about half as long?
Matt
At 06:46 PM 11/1/2008 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>Hi Matt,
>You've created a plumbing masterpiece but it's a ton of complication and cost.
Have you thought about just mounting the brake reservoir right on the brake
master cylinders?
>This is similar to the set up that I've used. $22/ea.
>
>Good luck.
>
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/remoteFluidReservoirs.php
>>Dear Listers,
>>
>>After some head scratching and a couple more tries, I think I came up with a
new design for the low pressure side of the brake lines. With this design, there
is a steady slope downward from the reservoir to the master calendars. Seems
to be pretty substantial. My only concern is that right feed line going through
that candy cane piece isn't really supported anywhere. Its pretty short
and solid to the touch, but vibration might cause a issue. Since the bottom
floor of the baggage area goes over the top, there's really nothing permanent
I can attach it to short of making a bracket of some kind (yuck).
>>
>>So what do you guys think?
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
If you don't mind a non-AN fitting, you can get a close nipple from
McMaster-Carr in a variety of materials. Just go to
http://www.mcmaster.com/ and search for close nipple.
They will not have a hex section so you will have to screw the two parts
together with the nipple between them, but since this is no-pressure
connection the final torque is not critical.
Dick Tasker
Matt Dralle wrote:
> Thanks for the tip, Mike. I actually did try these babies out. The problem
on the RV-8, though, is that with the adjustable rudder pedals at full "tall-person",
the mini-reservoir doesn't clear the firewall when the brakes are applied.
Here's a picture with one on the right master cylinder and full right rudder
applied, but no brake action. Notice that there is only about 1/16" of clearance
to the firewall. I wish that Grove had used a different fitting design
instead of just slapping a NPT M-M on the side. Its way too long. Anybody
know of a similar fitting that is about half as long?
>
> Matt
>
> At 06:46 PM 11/1/2008 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Matt,
>> You've created a plumbing masterpiece but it's a ton of complication and cost.
Have you thought about just mounting the brake reservoir right on the brake
master cylinders?
>> This is similar to the set up that I've used. $22/ea.
>>
>> Good luck.
>>
>>
>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/remoteFluidReservoirs.php
>>
>>> Dear Listers,
>>>
>>> After some head scratching and a couple more tries, I think I came up with
a new design for the low pressure side of the brake lines. With this design,
there is a steady slope downward from the reservoir to the master calendars.
Seems to be pretty substantial. My only concern is that right feed line going
through that candy cane piece isn't really supported anywhere. Its pretty short
and solid to the touch, but vibration might cause a issue. Since the bottom
floor of the baggage area goes over the top, there's really nothing permanent
I can attach it to short of making a bracket of some kind (yuck).
>>>
>>> So what do you guys think?
>>>
>>> Matt Dralle
>>> RV-8 #82880 N844RV (res)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MikeNellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question On Low-Pressure Brake Lines... |
Can you take one of those right angle fittings (like the one on the top
on the left hand master) and turn it 90 deg so the mast is to the side?
Mike
> Thanks for the tip, Mike. I actually did try these babies out. The problem
on the RV-8, though, is that with the adjustable rudder pedals at full "tall-person",
the mini-reservoir doesn't clear the firewall when the brakes are applied.
Here's a picture with one on the right master cylinder and full right rudder
applied, but no brake action. Notice that there is only about 1/16" of clearance
to the firewall. I wish that Grove had used a different fitting design
instead of just slapping a NPT M-M on the side. Its way too long. Anybody
know of a similar fitting that is about half as long?
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Brake Question |
Ah hah...thanks Charlie...I'll do that.
Paul Besing
________________________________
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 2, 2008 8:46:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Brake Question
Paul,
You are forgetting one thing about that Harbor Freight brake bleeder tool. It's
designed for automotive gylcol based fluids, which means that it's O-rings and
seals are made from EDPM, not Nitrile or Viton. You'll need to flush out the
aircraft mineral oil based brake fluid immediately after use, if you expect to
use the thing more than a few times.
Charlie Kuss
snipped
> BTW, harbor freight sells a really cool one man vacuum
> bleed kit that you hook air up to, and it has a nice large
> reservoir for collecting the brake fluid...plus a fluid
> supply bottle with a ball valve...nifty...$29.
>
> Paul Besing
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, November 1, 2008 3:12:01 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Brake Question
>
>
>
> linn Walters wrote:
> >
> > Yeah, but it's a PITA to change the pads. I would
> find out what's
> > going on and fix it. You'd hate to have a brake
> go out when you
> > really need it. And the cost may be more than $15
> then! ;-)
>
>
> 'Bout thirty minutes at most on an RV. Pads can removed
> from the wheel
> assembly in less time than it takes to remove the wheel
> pant.
>
> Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of
these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying
Contribution too!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Brake Question |
Paul,
If you plan to use that tool exclusively for aircraft, you could simply replace
all the seals and O-rings with items made of Nitrile (also called Buna N).
Charlie
--- On Sun, 11/2/08, Paul Besing wrote:
> From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Brake Question
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, November 2, 2008, 11:56 PM
> Ah hah...thanks Charlie...I'll do that.
>
> Paul Besing
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 2, 2008 8:46:58 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Brake Question
>
>
>
> Paul,
> You are forgetting one thing about that Harbor Freight
> brake bleeder tool. It's designed for automotive gylcol
> based fluids, which means that it's O-rings and seals
> are made from EDPM, not Nitrile or Viton. You'll need to
> flush out the aircraft mineral oil based brake fluid
> immediately after use, if you expect to use the thing more
> than a few times.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> snipped
> > BTW, harbor freight sells a really cool one man vacuum
> > bleed kit that you hook air up to, and it has a nice
> large
> > reservoir for collecting the brake fluid...plus a
> fluid
> > supply bottle with a ball valve...nifty...$29.
> >
> > Paul Besing
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Saturday, November 1, 2008 3:12:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Another Brake Question
> >
> >
> >
> > linn Walters wrote:
> > >
> > > Yeah, but it's a PITA to change the pads. I
> would
> > find out what's
> > > going on and fix it. You'd hate to have a
> brake
> > go out when you
> > > really need it. And the cost may be more than
> $15
> > then! ;-)
> >
> >
> > 'Bout thirty minutes at most on an RV. Pads can
> removed
> > from the wheel
> > assembly in less time than it takes to remove the
> wheel
> > pant.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall eyeball fitting...in or out? |
I'm looking at the firewall eyeball fittings for a bunch of the cables going through
the firewall.
Is there a consensus as to whether the eyeball locking ring should be on the cockpit
side or the engine side? If it is on the engine side and it comes apart,
the eyeball halves could fall out and out the bottom of the cowl...in flight
they would be gone forever...... If it is on the cockpit side and it comes apart,
the eyeball halves will be floating around the cockpit.
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Brake Question |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Actually, you should use "viton" for the o-rings on the calipers. They
will stand the heat and chemical compatability. The regular o-rings in
the master cyl's are fine. Change'm as necessary.
Jim
____________________________________________________________
Are you safe? Click for free quote on home security system.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3ni3cfq8IjTYUhaCOjWEd5548EZ9blD3XiF909G1dUKlw4Dx/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firewall eyeball fitting...in or out? |
I mounted all mine (3 airplanes worth) from the engine side. Access and
convenience dictate the orientation. I'm don't even want to think about
going panel diving with those itty bitty screws. I'm not that masochistic.
They all have lock washers so the chance of any coming loose is practically
nil. If things start shaking that much those aren't the balls I'd worry
about losing. Add some Locktite if you like the belt and suspenders
approach.
Regards,
Greg Young
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Ralph E. Capen
> Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 9:02 AM
> To: rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: Firewall eyeball fitting...in or out?
>
>
>
> I'm looking at the firewall eyeball fittings for a bunch of
> the cables going through the firewall.
>
> Is there a consensus as to whether the eyeball locking ring
> should be on the cockpit side or the engine side? If it is
> on the engine side and it comes apart, the eyeball halves
> could fall out and out the bottom of the cowl...in flight
> they would be gone forever...... If it is on the cockpit
> side and it comes apart, the eyeball halves will be floating
> around the cockpit.
>
> Ralph
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Firewall eyeball fitting...in or out? |
If you're looking at the one I'm thinking of, there are two retaining rings. One
is fastened to the firewall with two screws and the other fastens to the first
one with four screws through the firewall. The first one I installed permanently
inside the firewall with 'permanent' locktite on its two screws. Then
I installed the eyeball halves with hi-temp RTV to help hold the halves together
and seal the joint. Finally, I installed the last ring with RTV and the remaining
four screws. Even if I lose the screws I doubt I will lose the ring
or eyeball halves. I'd have to lose four screws for that, and all six screws
to lose the inner retainer. Hopefully I'd catch it in inspection before that
could happen. Anyway, as mentioned by Greg, screws to the engine compartment
is more accessible, which dictated how I oriented mine.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A N156PK - waiting for the DAR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 8:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Firewall eyeball fitting...in or out?
I'm looking at the firewall eyeball fittings for a bunch of the cables going through
the firewall.
Is there a consensus as to whether the eyeball locking ring should be on the cockpit
side or the engine side? If it is on the engine side and it comes apart,
the eyeball halves could fall out and out the bottom of the cowl...in flight
they would be gone forever...... If it is on the cockpit side and it comes apart,
the eyeball halves will be floating around the cockpit.
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gas Cap "O" Rings |
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCPower.com> |
Listers,
I'm looking for a source of gas cap "O" rings that are low temperature
equivalents to the
Brown "O" rings that are supplied with kits and new gas caps.
The brown variety that Van supplies do not work well in temps below
15* F.. At low
temps, the gas cap is impossible to remove. The brown "O" ring seems to
not contract
and allow the gas cap to be lifted.
Years ago I found a local "O" ring source, but it has since gone out
of business... Does
anyone have another source?
Fred Stucklen
RV-7A N924RV 75 Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas Cap "O" Rings |
Try McMaster Carr. They have a large selection of o-rings in a variety of
materials.
Dave Leonard
On Tue, Nov 4, 2008 at 5:32 AM, Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR <
Fred.Stucklen(at)utcpower.com> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I'm looking for a source of gas cap "O" rings that are low temperature
> equivalents to the
> Brown "O" rings that are supplied with kits and new gas caps.
> The brown variety that Van supplies do not work well in temps below 15*
> F.. At low
> temps, the gas cap is impossible to remove. The brown "O" ring seems to
> not contract
> and allow the gas cap to be lifted.
> Years ago I found a local "O" ring source, but it has since gone out of
> business... Does
> anyone have another source?
>
>
> *Fred Stucklen*
> RV-7A N924RV 75 Hrs
>
> *
>
>
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall eyeball fitting...in or out? |
I'm actually talking about the 'other' type of eyeball fitting - with the blue
anodized main fitting, attaching ring, and ball-retainer. No screws involved
- but if the ball retainer comes loose, the ball halves may fall out.
I agree that the 'screw-together' type are probably not prone to this issue.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Patrick Kelley <webmaster(at)flion.com>
>Sent: Nov 3, 2008 4:50 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Firewall eyeball fitting...in or out?
>
>
>If you're looking at the one I'm thinking of, there are two retaining rings.
One is fastened to the firewall with two screws and the other fastens to the first
one with four screws through the firewall. The first one I installed permanently
inside the firewall with 'permanent' locktite on its two screws. Then
I installed the eyeball halves with hi-temp RTV to help hold the halves together
and seal the joint. Finally, I installed the last ring with RTV and the
remaining four screws. Even if I lose the screws I doubt I will lose the ring
or eyeball halves. I'd have to lose four screws for that, and all six screws
to lose the inner retainer. Hopefully I'd catch it in inspection before that
could happen. Anyway, as mentioned by Greg, screws to the engine compartment
is more accessible, which dictated how I oriented mine.
>
>Patrick Kelley - RV-6A N156PK - waiting for the DAR
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 8:02 AM
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: Firewall eyeball fitting...in or out?
>
>
>I'm looking at the firewall eyeball fittings for a bunch of the cables going through
the firewall.
>
>Is there a consensus as to whether the eyeball locking ring should be on the cockpit
side or the engine side? If it is on the engine side and it comes apart,
the eyeball halves could fall out and out the bottom of the cowl...in flight
they would be gone forever...... If it is on the cockpit side and it comes
apart, the eyeball halves will be floating around the cockpit.
>
>Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas Cap "O" Rings |
The O-rings should be MS29512 series, for static applications with
hydocarbon fuels, made to Mil-P-5315 spec, which are rated for -65 to
+200 degrees, and black in color. I don't know what material Van uses.
David Leonard wrote:
> Try McMaster Carr. They have a large selection of o-rings in a
> variety of materials.
>
> Dave Leonard
>
> On Tue, Nov 4, 2008 at 5:32 AM, Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR
> > wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm looking for a source of gas cap "O" rings that are low
> temperature equivalents to the
> Brown "O" rings that are supplied with kits and new gas caps.
> The brown variety that Van supplies do not work well in temps
> below 15* F.. At low
> temps, the gas cap is impossible to remove. The brown "O" ring
> seems to not contract
> and allow the gas cap to be lifted.
> Years ago I found a local "O" ring source, but it has since
> gone out of business... Does
> anyone have another source?
>
>
>
> *Fred Stucklen*
> RV-7A N924RV 75 Hrs
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> --
> David Leonard
>
> Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
> http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
> http://RotaryRoster.net
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gas Cap "O" Rings |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Fred,
I sell O-Rings at my shop (all kinds). The Viton (available in
brown or black) is rated from -65*F to +500*F. The best reason for the
brown version is to avoid confusion of materials. All the rest of the
O-Rings are black and hard to tell the difference in materials. Such as
Buna, Butyl, Ethylene Propylene. So the brown helps. Any material at
the temps of around 15*F and lower are going to be stiffer than at higher
temps. I use a wooden dowel (with calibrations at 5-10-15 gallons) with
a steel pin (nail with out head) inserted on one end. I use it to lift
the lock on the cap. At that point, you grip the cap and lift. If it
comes out with a lot of effort, I would make up a device to "hook" on to
the cap to pull it from the tank.
Is that confusing enough??
Jim Nelson
RV9-A
____________________________________________________________
Click here and choose from thousands of high quality used cars.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oE0bmQByYhqqwhMEsVvhS8QRLDS76yF8shf0JT9u8UggS19/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ & Marilyn" <rmkeith(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas Cap "O" Rings |
The o rings are 2-325 viton-75 a softer compound might help. Buna-N is
also an acceptable compound and can be found with a Shore hardness of
70.
Russ Keith
RV9A 90%DONE $10,000 left to go I think
----- Original Message -----
From: Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2008 8:32 AM
Subject: RV-List: Gas Cap "O" Rings
Listers,
I'm looking for a source of gas cap "O" rings that are low
temperature equivalents to the
Brown "O" rings that are supplied with kits and new gas caps.
The brown variety that Van supplies do not work well in temps below
15* F.. At low
temps, the gas cap is impossible to remove. The brown "O" ring seems
to not contract
and allow the gas cap to be lifted.
Years ago I found a local "O" ring source, but it has since gone
out of business... Does
anyone have another source?
Fred Stucklen
RV-7A N924RV 75 Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas Cap "O" Rings |
Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I'm looking for a source of gas cap "O" rings that are low
> temperature equivalents to the
> Brown "O" rings that are supplied with kits and new gas caps.
> The brown variety that Van supplies do not work well in temps below
> 15* F.. At low
> temps, the gas cap is impossible to remove. The brown "O" ring seems
> to not contract
> and allow the gas cap to be lifted.
> Years ago I found a local "O" ring source, but it has since gone
> out of business... Does
> anyone have another source?
>
>
>
> *Fred Stucklen*
> RV-7A N924RV 75 Hrs
>
I'll pass on a tip someone else gave me:
http://allorings.com/
The size is 2-325 (1 7/8" ID) in Buna-n.
They will sell a bag of 10 for $10, but the assortment on the primary
web page includes something like a half-dozen of that size plus a LOT of
other sizes in a nice box, p/n 70D, for the same price. Total with
shipping is around $20. I've been using a pair & running autogas for
about a year with no ill effects (originals swelled up badly on autogas).
YMMV, etc etc.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
What=92s the best way to remove paint from fiberglass? I nned to repaint
my
canopy skirt.
Thanks!
Wayne
Checked by AVG.
11/3/2008
4:59 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: paint removal |
Your only real option is to sand it.... Strippers may damage the
fiberglass (or may not, but you won't know until too late).
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Williams
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2008 8:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: paint removal
What=92s the best way to remove paint from fiberglass? I nned to
repaint my canopy skirt.
Thanks!
Wayne
Checked by AVG.
11/3/2008 4:59 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: paint removal |
Home Depot has stripper specifically for fiberglass ...... with
polyester resin. You don't want to use regular paint stripper on
polyester, but I don't know about the epoxies. The fiberglass stuff is
the safer way to go although I found it kinda puny on imron.
Linn
Wayne Williams wrote:
>
> Whats the best way to remove paint from fiberglass? I nned to repaint
> my canopy skirt.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> Wayne
>
>
>
>
> Checked by AVG.
> 11/3/2008 4:59 PM
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
Hey Wayne=2C
You don't need to remove all the paint=2C just sand it down nice and smooth
with 400 grit/wet and then put some white primer on and paint. Or=2C if y
ou are repainting with the same color=2C just sand and paint and clear coat
=2C if applicable.
I had to fix my wheel pants and this worked perfectly.
Paul
RV8
Flying Siren
From: rwayne(at)gamewood.netTo: rv-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV-List: paint r
emovalDate: Tue=2C 4 Nov 2008 20:28:20 -0500
What=92s the best way to remove paint from fiberglass? I nned to repaint my
canopy skirt.
Thanks!
Wayne
Checked by AVG.11/3/2008 4:59 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Paint Scheme Opinion Pole |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
It's time for me to finalize my paint scheme and so true to form last
minute I came up with a number of alternate designs.
Keep in mind this plane has the James cowl. If interested please review
the designs and email me off list with your favorite design # and any
comments you may have.
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/paint.htm
Thanks,
Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser |
A couple of years ago I implemented an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for
the Fund Raiser messages. Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes
a
Contribution through the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, he or she will instantly
cease to receive these Fund Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its
just that simple. Don't you wish PBS worked that way! :-)
I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support
the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware
and
software that are required to run a List Site like this. It also goes to pay for
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to
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Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined with other Listers such
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[Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution
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The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
Re hard to get gas cap off, I had that problem, used some silicon grease
on them and much improved, also used it on the primer o ring when it got
hadr to pull out. works great.
charlie H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Gas Cap "O" Rings |
Fred
At low temps,Lift the lock of the gas cap and let it sit
for 15min or so,befor removing the cap.
The ring will have time to relax making it easier to remove.
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas Cap "O" Rings |
Buna N will work fine with 100LL, but Viton is a better choice, if you plan on
using Auto Fuel. The additives in unleaded auto fuels will cause Buna N (aka Nitrile)
to shrink over time.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Tue, 11/4/08, Russ & Marilyn wrote:
> From: Russ & Marilyn <rmkeith(at)gwi.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gas Cap "O" Rings
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, November 4, 2008, 7:44 PM
> The o rings are 2-325 viton-75 a softer compound might help.
> Buna-N is also an acceptable compound and can be found with
> a Shore hardness of 70.
>
>
> Russ Keith
> RV9A 90%DONE $10,000 left to go I think
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2008 8:32 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Gas Cap "O" Rings
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm looking for a source of gas cap "O"
> rings that are low temperature equivalents to the
> Brown "O" rings that are supplied with kits and
> new gas caps.
> The brown variety that Van supplies do not work well
> in temps below 15* F.. At low
> temps, the gas cap is impossible to remove. The brown
> "O" ring seems to not contract
> and allow the gas cap to be lifted.
> Years ago I found a local "O" ring source,
> but it has since gone out of business... Does
> anyone have another source?
>
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-7A N924RV 75 Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Paint Scheme Opinion Pole |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Robin, you are a bold builder to offer those fine graphic designs for
public consumption/opinion and plagiarizing.
I think the Cirrus group is bold much like the Columbia was, before
Cessna's purchase in bucking graphic artist input to flow/symmetry and
balance. My wife says she can spot a male designer every time. She
won't let me consider a top heavy dark canopy while I am alive during or
after the build process. Here's toasting a cold one to your long life
and smiles from the rest of us.
A point to consider is a natural flow to those graphics and the dramatic
James Cowl, Remember the leading edge compatibility to future paint
chipping (from Ice/Rain/Rocks/FOD) and the striking use of contrasting
or complementary colors. You're going to be a natural for 3Ms clear Prop
Tape films used for leading edges, gap seals and other scuff resistant
surfaces. Others might walk the flightline and learn the hazard areas
on the flying RV-10s before tackling such a solution.
The heat loads from the (most massive Vans) fiberglass canopy and the
expansive Plexiglas touring windows would cause me to ask John Gonzales
"How does that work in a Glider?" In a Piper, the door stays open as
long as possible to create adequate ambient air flow to exhaust the heat
build up at startup and idle. Cessnas flying under that big umbrella
can't comment. In an RV-10, the gull wing door design wants to take
flight. Tim's website has my research on Colors/Temperatures from
several years ago at the big VANs Fly-In. Everyone including John
Strain is waiting for Ed Hayden's report on his onboard A/C system or
Deems Ice Chest Solution to the heat soak problems.
I think you are doing a great service for us so that future builders
consider such schemes. I still give Wayne Edgerton (N602WT) and Deems
Davis (N519PJ) my high mark for individually unique graphic design,
color choices, flow and quality of topcoat. Scott Schmidt (N104XP) got
my first vote for his one of a kind graphic scheme and the dramatic use
of Pearl White base paint. Tim Olson did a great scheme on (N104CD). A
paint job should remain Timeless. After painting show cars, I still
cringe when an owner would want a perfectly great paintjob redone so he
could resubmit the following year as a New Entry. Oh well, it was his
money, the paint didn't matter then. Even our airline gets wrapped up
in changing paint schemes to match mood changes with the season. Jim
Hergert's (N6XE) set the Experimental standard for changing colors with
the prismatic resins. So much so, that Garmin used the picture for
their "Fast Glass" Panel advertising and ironically the panel is all
Chelton.. only his radio stack was Garmin, now go figure.
Every well painted RV-10 is a tribute to the love and attention invested
in the build process.
Barnstormers has a diverse range of paint jobs, graphics, colors and
downright homemade paint schemes on the RV-10s being turned. Yours may
be the Next Big Winner. Copperstate '08 gave their Grand Champion Award
to a striking paint scheme on a plastic aircraft done right down the
street from VANS. The painter (Craig Roberts) did not even know till
after the fact the impact he had on the Arizona judges. it was more
than a year old having been seen at Copperstate back in 07. Timeless,
now that's a great paint scheme.
John Cox
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2008 9:32 PM
Subject: RV-List: Paint Scheme Opinion Pole
It's time for me to finalize my paint scheme and so true to form last
minute I came up with a number of alternate designs.
Keep in mind this plane has the James cowl. If interested please review
the designs and email me off list with your favorite design # and any
comments you may have.
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/paint.htm
Thanks,
Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Nylon Brake Fittings |
Anyone know what I can use to replace or substitute the low pressure side of the
lines? I've got leaky nylon fittings and would like to replace them. I was
hoping the aviation section of ace, home depot, etc would have nylon compression
fittings, but I was mistaken.
Thx..
Paul Besing
RV-4
N73DD Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nylon Brake Fittings |
Paul Besing wrote:
> Anyone know what I can use to replace or substitute the low pressure
> side of the lines? I've got leaky nylon fittings and would like to
> replace them. I was hoping the aviation section of ace, home depot,
> etc would have nylon compression fittings, but I was mistaken.
I get my nylon fittings from Ace. Don't know why yours is lacking.
Make sure that you use the brass insert into the end of the tube .... I
haven't had any problems with leaking.
Linn
>
> Thx..
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-4
> N73DD Arizona
>
>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nylon Brake Fittings |
| From: | "ThisOne" <thisone58(at)gmail.com> |
[quote="pbesing(at)yahoo.com"]Anyone know what I can use to replace or substitute
the low pressure side of the lines? I've got leaky nylon fittings and would
like to replace them. I was hoping the aviation section of ace, home depot,
etc would have nylon compression fittings, but I was mistaken.
Thx..
Paul Besing
RV-4
N73DD Arizona
Paul,
If you like drop me a line and I'll see what I can do for you. I'v been building
lines for RV's for years now and I might be able to lend a hand.
Regards,
Brett
Bonaco, Inc.
brett (at) bonacoinc.com
> [b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=212769#212769
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Just a quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser. The Matronics
Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are provided
for my your Contributions during this time of the year.
Your personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email
Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Panel Power Source |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Remember to include a cigaret lighter socket on your panel. When you
need to power up things on the panel, you need not use the battery that
will start your plane. By using a spare battery, like the one on my CH
battery powered compressor (Walmart at about $ 70.00), plugged in to the
socket, will provide power for your glass panel etc. I can run my glass
panels for set ups and setting up my Trutrak etc with out running down
the aircraft battery. This in addition to keeping the tires properly
inflated. A nice piece of multipurpose equipment at a reasonable price.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A
____________________________________________________________
Take a break - you deserve it. Click here to find a great vacation.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nJgx0VIkZAlZTDoBunbNsnEY54d4rAIQJeTU3J7x9XWTJdJ/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gilbey69" <gilbey69(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: manifold pressure sender |
brian,yes on the restrictor fitting on the engine, i have checked the line
running to the bulkhead, to the sending unit, all clear,
thanks, frank goggio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Power Source |
I'll make an "improvement" on Jim's recommendation. Obtain a marine cigarette socket
and plug from your local marine supply house (Boat Owners Warehouse, West
Marine, etc). These vendors carry "locking" cigarette socket/plug combos. These
will prevent the plug from vibrating out of the socket due to rough air or
that Lycoming! See
http://www.marinco.com/product/sealink-12v-plug-amp-receptacle
Charlie Kuss
--- On Fri, 11/7/08, James H Nelson wrote:
> From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Panel Power Source
> To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, November 7, 2008, 12:51 PM
>
>
> Remember to include a cigaret lighter socket on your panel.
> When you
> need to power up things on the panel, you need not use the
> battery that
> will start your plane. By using a spare battery, like the
> one on my CH
> battery powered compressor (Walmart at about $ 70.00),
> plugged in to the
> socket, will provide power for your glass panel etc. I can
> run my glass
> panels for set ups and setting up my Trutrak etc with out
> running down
> the aircraft battery. This in addition to keeping the
> tires properly
> inflated. A nice piece of multipurpose equipment at a
> reasonable price.
>
>
> Jim Nelson
> RV9-A
> ____________________________________________________________
> Take a break - you deserve it. Click here to find a great
> vacation.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nJgx0VIkZAlZTDoBunbNsnEY54d4rAIQJeTU3J7x9XWTJdJ/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | Panel Power Source |
That's similar to the socket that Aerotronics installed in my panel; I like
it. However, I opted for a different ground power source, especially as I
intended the socket to power an MP3 player and, besides, don't want to have
to leave my canopy open to power my system. I have a Battery Tender
(batterytender.com) 1.5 Amp unit, with a permanent connection to my main
battery accessible through the oil filler door. I find that I can use the
system for panel checks and such (I've been wiring my panel and engine for
the past year) without significantly draining the battery and overnight it
is full again. If you need more than that, they have a 5 Amp model, but
it's much more expensive. BTW, I discovered them when I needed a good
charger for my motorcycle, which is a replica generator Shovelhead; the
generator does not do a good job of replenishing charge when you make a lot
of short trips, so I generally leave it on charge overnight. Three years
and both battery and the tender are going strong.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A N156PK - Waiting on the FAA and the DAR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Kuss
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Panel Power Source
I'll make an "improvement" on Jim's recommendation. Obtain a marine
cigarette socket and plug from your local marine supply house (Boat Owners
Warehouse, West Marine, etc). These vendors carry "locking" cigarette
socket/plug combos. These will prevent the plug from vibrating out of the
socket due to rough air or that Lycoming! See
http://www.marinco.com/product/sealink-12v-plug-amp-receptacle
Charlie Kuss
--- On Fri, 11/7/08, James H Nelson wrote:
> From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Panel Power Source
> To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, November 7, 2008, 12:51 PM
>
>
> Remember to include a cigaret lighter socket on your panel.
> When you
> need to power up things on the panel, you need not use the
> battery that
> will start your plane. By using a spare battery, like the
> one on my CH
> battery powered compressor (Walmart at about $ 70.00),
> plugged in to the
> socket, will provide power for your glass panel etc. I can
> run my glass
> panels for set ups and setting up my Trutrak etc with out
> running down
> the aircraft battery. This in addition to keeping the
> tires properly
> inflated. A nice piece of multipurpose equipment at a
> reasonable price.
>
>
> Jim Nelson
> RV9-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Sealink 12v Recepticle |
Ebay..$12.99 Smoking deal.
Ebay item 160107403246
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
________________________________
From: Patrick Kelley <webmaster(at)flion.com>
Sent: Friday, November 7, 2008 3:49:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Panel Power Source
That's similar to the socket that Aerotronics installed in my panel; I like
it. However, I opted for a different ground power source, especially as I
intended the socket to power an MP3 player and, besides, don't want to have
to leave my canopy open to power my system. I have a Battery Tender
(batterytender.com) 1.5 Amp unit, with a permanent connection to my main
battery accessible through the oil filler door. I find that I can use the
system for panel checks and such (I've been wiring my panel and engine for
the past year) without significantly draining the battery and overnight it
is full again. If you need more than that, they have a 5 Amp model, but
it's much more expensive. BTW, I discovered them when I needed a good
charger for my motorcycle, which is a replica generator Shovelhead; the
generator does not do a good job of replenishing charge when you make a lot
of short trips, so I generally leave it on charge overnight. Three years
and both battery and the tender are going strong.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A N156PK - Waiting on the FAA and the DAR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Kuss
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Panel Power Source
I'll make an "improvement" on Jim's recommendation. Obtain a marine
cigarette socket and plug from your local marine supply house (Boat Owners
Warehouse, West Marine, etc). These vendors carry "locking" cigarette
socket/plug combos. These will prevent the plug from vibrating out of the
socket due to rough air or that Lycoming! See
http://www.marinco.com/product/sealink-12v-plug-amp-receptacle
Charlie Kuss
--- On Fri, 11/7/08, James H Nelson wrote:
> From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Panel Power Source
> To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, November 7, 2008, 12:51 PM
>
>
> Remember to include a cigaret lighter socket on your panel.
> When you
> need to power up things on the panel, you need not use the
> battery that
> will start your plane. By using a spare battery, like the
> one on my CH
> battery powered compressor (Walmart at about $ 70.00),
> plugged in to the
> socket, will provide power for your glass panel etc. I can
> run my glass
> panels for set ups and setting up my Trutrak etc with out
> running down
> the aircraft battery. This in addition to keeping the
> tires properly
> inflated. A nice piece of multipurpose equipment at a
> reasonable price.
>
>
> Jim Nelson
> RV9-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Approach FastStack |
Anyone used the Approach FastStack for wiring their panels? Seems like a great
system for simplifying wiring?
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Approach FastStack |
| From: | "N395V" <Bearcat(at)bearcataviation.com> |
It is well worth the money. Fast, easy, works and looks great.
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=213103#213103
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealink 12v Recepticle |
Paul,
Not a bad deal, but you'll still need the matching plug to go with it. Using a
"standard" plug defeats the "locking" feature.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Sat, 11/8/08, Paul Besing wrote:
> From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Sealink 12v Recepticle
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, November 8, 2008, 8:42 PM
> Ebay..$12.99 Smoking deal.
>
> Ebay item 160107403246
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-4 N73DD
> Arizona
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Patrick Kelley <webmaster(at)flion.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, November 7, 2008 3:49:09 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Panel Power Source
>
> Kelley"
>
> That's similar to the socket that Aerotronics installed
> in my panel; I like
> it. However, I opted for a different ground power source,
> especially as I
> intended the socket to power an MP3 player and, besides,
> don't want to have
> to leave my canopy open to power my system. I have a
> Battery Tender
> (batterytender.com) 1.5 Amp unit, with a permanent
> connection to my main
> battery accessible through the oil filler door. I find
> that I can use the
> system for panel checks and such (I've been wiring my
> panel and engine for
> the past year) without significantly draining the battery
> and overnight it
> is full again. If you need more than that, they have a 5
> Amp model, but
> it's much more expensive. BTW, I discovered them when
> I needed a good
> charger for my motorcycle, which is a replica generator
> Shovelhead; the
> generator does not do a good job of replenishing charge
> when you make a lot
> of short trips, so I generally leave it on charge
> overnight. Three years
> and both battery and the tender are going strong.
>
> Patrick Kelley - RV-6A N156PK - Waiting on the FAA and the
> DAR
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Charles Kuss
> Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 2:41 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Panel Power Source
>
>
>
> I'll make an "improvement" on Jim's
> recommendation. Obtain a marine
> cigarette socket and plug from your local marine supply
> house (Boat Owners
> Warehouse, West Marine, etc). These vendors carry
> "locking" cigarette
> socket/plug combos. These will prevent the plug from
> vibrating out of the
> socket due to rough air or that Lycoming! See
>
> http://www.marinco.com/product/sealink-12v-plug-amp-receptacle
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> --- On Fri, 11/7/08, James H Nelson
> wrote:
>
> > From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Panel Power Source
> > To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Friday, November 7, 2008, 12:51 PM
> >
> >
> > Remember to include a cigaret lighter socket on your
> panel.
> > When you
> > need to power up things on the panel, you need not use
> the
> > battery that
> > will start your plane. By using a spare battery, like
> the
> > one on my CH
> > battery powered compressor (Walmart at about $ 70.00),
> > plugged in to the
> > socket, will provide power for your glass panel etc.
> I can
> > run my glass
> > panels for set ups and setting up my Trutrak etc with
> out
> > running down
> > the aircraft battery. This in addition to keeping
> the
> > tires properly
> > inflated. A nice piece of multipurpose equipment at a
> > reasonable price.
> >
> >
> > Jim Nelson
> > RV9-A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sportypilot <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Approach FastStack |
Paul, I know a guy that has one
and some premade cables good price
Met him on Dynon support board, email
Me & when I get home I will look up
His addy for you
Danny
Sent from cell
On Nov 8, 2008, at 10:14 PM, Paul Besing wrote:
> Anyone used the Approach FastStack for wiring their panels? Seems
> like a great system for simplifying wiring?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-4 N73DD
> Arizona
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Approach FastStack |
Paul
I am building an RV10. I have the cables etc from Tim at Approach and am
very happy with what he has provided. Without his system, I would likely
have to get a shop to wire my -10. The premade cables are all labelled and
look to be of very high quality / workmanship.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#4063 - some assembly required
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sportypilot
Sent: November-09-08 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Approach FastStack
Paul, I know a guy that has one
and some premade cables good price
Met him on Dynon support board, email
Me & when I get home I will look up
His addy for you
Danny
Sent from cell
On Nov 8, 2008, at 10:14 PM, Paul Besing wrote:
Anyone used the Approach FastStack for wiring their panels? Seems like a
great system for simplifying wiring?
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Approach FastStack |
Paul,
I used this system on my RV-4 and a friend used it on his RV-9A. Both of us
are satisfied users.
Wally Hunt
Rockford, IL
RV-4 finishing kit
**************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other
Holiday needs. Search Now.
-aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk90658(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Position Controler |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk90658(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Position Controler |
Let me try this again.
I am looking for a flap position controller.
I know that Vans sells one, but I was wondering if there were others out in the
community that produced something similar.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort of
my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Position Controler |
Bob, You may want to take a look at the flap controller we sell at TCW
Technologies. It is a bit different than those with pre-set positions.
Our flap controller allows pilot and co-pilot flap switches and also
provides Vfe protection. The controller is connected to an airspeed switch
and prevent you from deploying the flaps above a preset airspeed. All the
details our on our web site: www.tcwtech.com. Follow the link for Aviation
Products and then click on Intelligent Flap Controller.
Thanks,
Bob Newman
TCW Technolgies
RV-10 40176
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk90658(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 1:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Flap Position Controler
>
>
> Let me try this again.
>
> I am looking for a flap position controller.
> I know that Vans sells one, but I was wondering if there were others out
> in the community that produced something similar.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Zulu headset using lemo plug |
Im still waffling on trading up from my 30 3g's to zulu, but if I do, Im
very interested in the lemo plug option for using ships power. Anyone on
here have that setup? If so, did you need to branch off witha separate
fuse, or just parallel into, say the fused 12 volt source for the
garmin 296 or simular? Charlie H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Position Controller |
This one is very popular and offers several modes of operation and safety including
trim compensation.....
http://www.aircraftextras.com/
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Perkinson
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 12:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Flap Position Controler
Let me try this again.
I am looking for a flap position controller.
I know that Vans sells one, but I was wondering if there were others out in the
community that produced something similar.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap Position controller |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Bob,
Nice to see your getting it built. Go to www.aircraftextras.com
and see that they have several neat things for your bird. I bought
several things. Mine is now flying and its great. I bought Van's unit
and it works great. AircraftExtras has a simpler to install unit and I
understand it works well.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A
N15JN
____________________________________________________________
Save hundreds on an Unsecured Loan - Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m3iTbXsHZ1dd7gGraiVQnpWLS7ne4IW7m7VHPDZGSK4J3Wz/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ferrerg(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | RV/Rocket Steering Link |
I am considering replacing the Van's tail wheel steering chains in my RV6 with
an "RV/Rocket Steering Link".
Please, I would appreciate any advice from the listers.
I'm specially concerned about landing performance under strong cross winds and
maintenance issues.
Thank you
--
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX
South Florida's Treasure Coast
email: ferrerg(at)comcast.net
cell: 561 758 8894
I am considering replacing the Van's tail wheel steering chains in my RV6 with
an "RV/Rocket Steering Link".
Please, I would appreciate any advice from the listers.
I'm specially concerned about landing performance under strong cross
winds and maintenance issues.
Thank you
--
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX
South Florida's
Treasure Coast
email: ferrerg(at)comcast.net
cell: 561 758 8894
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV/Rocket Steering Link |
ferrerg(at)comcast.net wrote:
> I am considering replacing the Van's tail wheel steering chains in my
> RV6 with an "RV/Rocket Steering Link".
>
> Please, I would appreciate any advice from the listers.
>
> I'm specially concerned about landing performance under strong cross
> winds and maintenance issues.
Gabe, I've been using the Rocket link for several years on my RV-6. You
should not have any operational or maintenance issues with the link. It
handles pretty much like a properly adjusted set of chains, just looks
nicer and faster. :-)
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV/Rocket Steering Link |
| From: | Michael W Stewart <mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com> |
>From the other side.
I have ~800 hours on my steering link.
It failed 2 weeks ago.
I went to chains with the intention of getting my link fixed and using
the
chains to get by. The chains will stay. I feel the chains have a superi
or
feel. Soft, relaxing feel compared to the link. It looks like Im loosin
g 5
knots with those air grabbing, speed robbing chains, but Im surely not.
My tail is about 20lbs heavier than the average RV and takes additional
abuse with the crummy short fields I have to crash land into in order f
or
my buds to feed me.
Best,
Mike,
Sam Buchanan
Sent by:
To
owner-rv-list-ser rv-list(at)matronics.com
ver(at)matronics.com
cc
Subj
ect
11/10/2008 12:32 Re: RV-List: RV/Rocket Steering
PM Link
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
ferrerg(at)comcast.net wrote:
> I am considering replacing the Van's tail wheel steering chains in my
> RV6 with an "RV/Rocket Steering Link".
>
> Please, I would appreciate any advice from the listers.
>
> I'm specially concerned about landing performance under strong cross
> winds and maintenance issues.
Gabe, I've been using the Rocket link for several years on my RV-6. You
should not have any operational or maintenance issues with the link. It
handles pretty much like a properly adjusted set of chains, just looks
nicer and faster. :-)
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <scottam65(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 / 6a kits for sale |
RV-6 / 6a kits for sale.
Empennage: Complete except for fiberglass tips. Includes electric elevator
trim kit. All parts are alodined and primed with Marhyde primer.
Wings & Phlogiston Spar: Both skeletons fully assembled. Top skins
riveted. Both tanks are complete and sealed. Flaps and ailerons complete,
but not fitted. Includes electric aileron trim kit. All parts are alodined
and primed with Deft epoxy primer (Mil-P-23377G).
Both kits are the pre-punched versions purchased in 1997 & 1998 by myself.
Construction is excellent. Preview plans and Orndorff videos are included
for both kits.
Detailed photos are available upon request.
Must sell. The first $3750 takes it all. Buyer arranges transportation.
If all items were purchased separately the price would be more than $6500
for the unassembled kits.
Regards,
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
716-510-0318- cell
scottam65(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV/Rocket Steering Link |
One of the builders came up with a
nice tail wheel spring set up that works so well VAN'S sells them in the
parts catalog now. I have about 500 hours using them on my RV6 and I am
really satisfied with them. The part number in the catalog is U TAIL
LYNX.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael W
Stewart
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV/Rocket Steering Link
>From the other side.
I have ~800 hours on my steering link.
It failed 2 weeks ago.
I went to chains with the intention of getting my link fixed and using
the chains to get by. The chains will stay. I feel the chains have a
superior feel. Soft, relaxing feel compared to the link. It looks like
Im loosing 5 knots with those air grabbing, speed robbing chains, but Im
surely not.
My tail is about 20lbs heavier than the average RV and takes additional
abuse with the crummy short fields I have to crash land into in order
for my buds to feed me.
Best,
Mike
Inactive hide details for Sam Buchanan ---11/10/2008 12:51:24 PM----->
RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan
Sam Buchanan
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
11/10/2008 12:32 PM
Please respond to
rv-list(at)matronics.com
To
rv-list(at)matronics.com
cc
Subject
Re: RV-List: RV/Rocket Steering Link
ferrerg(at)comcast.net wrote:
> I am considering replacing the Van's tail wheel steering chains in my
> RV6 with an "RV/Rocket Steering Link".
>
> Please, I would appreciate any advice from the listers.
>
> I'm specially concerned about landing performance under strong cross
> winds and maintenance issues.
Gabe, I've been using the Rocket link for several years on my RV-6. You
should not have any operational or maintenance issues with the link. It
handles pretty much like a properly adjusted set of chains, just looks
nicer and faster. :-)
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
====================================
r> ts!)
> bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
====================================
tor?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
====================================
FORUMS -
tp://forums.matronics.com
====================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV/Rocket Steering Link |
----=_Part_38986_396436048.1226378734492--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV/Rocket Steering Link |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Subject
Re: RV-List: RV/Rocket Steering Link
I now carry the RV-List: RV/Rocket Steering Link in my web store. That
and dozens of other items for your RV or Rocket, including the
Screaming Eagle retrofit tailwheel forks that give your RV better
clearance and better handling. Please check it out.
http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/
Thanks,
Vince Frazier
Flyboy Accessories
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
www.flyboyaccessories.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Dear Listers,
There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums.
The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November
Fund Raiser.
Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade
of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution
too!
You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
Thank you in advance for your generous support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser Lagging Last Year By Over 30%... |
As of the 13th, the Fund Raiser is currently about 30% behind last year in terms
of the number of Contributions. Yet, oddly the number of messages posted per
day is up by 10 to 20% on the average. It costs real money to run these Lists
and they are supported 100% though your Contributions during the Fund Raiser.
Won't you please take a minute right now to make your Contribution to keep
these Lists up and running?
Contribution Page:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trio Auto Pilot FS |
| From: | "PaulR" <prose(at)panhandle.rr.com> |
Trio "Gold" servo with wiring harness, never installed.
SafeAir1 installation kit for "roll" installation
Includes all hardware, instructions and push/pull tube.
Wing doubler has been installed but will be removed and included.
Price for all new is approximately $880 plus freight.
I'll take $750 shipped in CONUS either UPS or Priority Mail.
email prose(at)panhandle(dot)rr(dot)com
--------
Paul Rose
N417PR (res)
RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214245#214245
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
| From: | "bcollinsmn" <bob(at)rvbuildershotline.com> |
I'm interested in seeing pix of people's installations of the Artex 406 ELT in
a 7A. Where it's mounted, for example. Also, if I read this correctly, the antenna
requires a 24" ground plane. Seems to me I've seen people use the whip antenna
around the back of the rollbar. I assume it's mounted on the gusset that
connects the 705 bulkhead to the longerons (with the gizmo for the tip-up latch.)
But how are you accomodating a 24" ground plane there?
Thanks
Bob Collins
RV Builder's Hotline
http://rvbuildershotline.com/
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV-7A (#&^ fiberglass!)
http://rvbuildershotline.com
Day job: http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214389#214389
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Divan <n343fd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trio Auto Pilot FS |
Is it sold yet?
Mike Divan
N64GH - RV6 (flying)
http://n64gh.blogspot.com/
FREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOURS!
________________________________
From: PaulR <prose(at)panhandle.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2008 12:50:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Trio Auto Pilot FS
Trio "Gold" servo with wiring harness, never installed.
SafeAir1 installation kit for "roll" installation
Includes all hardware, instructions and push/pull tube.
Wing doubler has been installed but will be removed and included.
Price for all new is approximately $880 plus freight.
I'll take $750 shipped in CONUS either UPS or Priority Mail.
email prose(at)panhandle(dot)rr(dot)com
--------
Paul Rose
N417PR (res)
RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214245#214245
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What's My Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?" and that's a good question.
Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables. It provides
for the very expensive, commercial-grade T1 Internet connection used on
the List insuring maximum performance and minimal contention when accessing
List services. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades
enabling the highest performance possible for services such as the Archive Search
Engine, List Browser, and Forums. It pays for 19+ years worth of online archive
data available for instant random search and access. And, it offsets the
many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications
that power this List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums,
Wiki and PhotoShare.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your
peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation,
censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses. How many
places on the Internet can you make all those statements these days?
It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these many aspects of these valuable
List services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its
one of the best investments you can make in your Sport...
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
Bob, read your question with interest. Sounds like this 406 takes a
different setup than the current ones being used? You cant install it
same as the ones we are using? Chalrie H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trio Auto Pilot FS |
Paul:
Would like to know what is the name of the unit etc. never heard of
golden trio." I am looking for the Altitude Holder....
thanks for any info
robert
--- On Fri, 11/14/08, PaulR wrote:
> From: PaulR <prose(at)panhandle.rr.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Trio Auto Pilot FS
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, November 14, 2008, 3:50 PM
>
>
> Trio "Gold" servo with wiring harness, never
> installed.
> SafeAir1 installation kit for "roll" installation
> Includes all hardware, instructions and push/pull tube.
> Wing doubler has been installed but will be removed and
> included.
>
> Price for all new is approximately $880 plus freight.
>
> I'll take $750 shipped in CONUS either UPS or Priority
> Mail.
>
> email prose(at)panhandle(dot)rr(dot)com
>
> --------
> Paul Rose
> N417PR (res)
> RV-9A
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214245#214245
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John L. Danielson" <jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Headset |
I have a Sennheiser HMCE 300 ANR headset for sale.
It is approx. 4 yrs old and is in excellent condition.
Very comfortable and lightweight. It comes with Oregon Aero ear cups and
the original ear cups.
Very nice headset. You wouldn't be disappointed. Reson for selling. I'm
getting out of aviation.
Asking $350 plus shipping.
Please e-mail me off the list at Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net with any
questions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
| From: | "bcollinsmn" <bob(at)rvbuildershotline.com> |
Yeah, I think you can. According to the instructions, the mounting bracket will
exchange properly with the existing setups. I'm just curious how people are installing.
When you read the instructions, it sounds like they want it as far
in the tail as possible with the antenna having this 24" ground plane. But when
I've seen various installations, it's tucked under the baggage compartment quite
often with the whip antenna bent around the aft side of the rollbar.
According to the instrx, whatever is used, the ELT and the antenna should be in
the same "bay". Van's sells that combo ELT/Strobe power supply bracket (which
I used for the strobe) that fits on the stringers, but that will only fit directly
behind the 706 bulkhead.
It's not big deal, I'm just interested in seeing various permutations before I
dive in.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV-7A (#&^ fiberglass!)
http://rvbuildershotline.com
Day job: http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214539#214539
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Bob, I am hoping that this thread actually expands and becomes a Big
Deal, or at least bigger.
I have felt for some time that the location, mount orientation, ground
plane and attempt at concealing the antenna actually leads to an
ineffective or nearly worthless electronic device. That premise was
based on the 121.5 variant not the 406 however, because one build might
have mounted it incorrectly, scores follow suit and then the masses
drink the Kool-Aid. I have always concluded the function might not be
important, only its presence for the DAR signoff.
I have remained curious how many rescues rather than recoveries "after
the fact" are attributed to a properly functioning signal and a
responsible response by the parties that monitor the frequency (either
121.5 or 406.
As a ham (amateur) radio license holder this pursuit of concealing the
antenna has always been fascinating. Do any of the readers have signal
propagation graphs on signal strength radiating from inside the tin can?
John Cox
Aurora, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcollinsmn
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 7:26 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A
Yeah, I think you can. According to the instructions, the mounting
bracket will exchange properly with the existing setups. I'm just
curious how people are installing. When you read the instructions, it
sounds like they want it as far in the tail as possible with the antenna
having this 24" ground plane. But when I've seen various installations,
it's tucked under the baggage compartment quite often with the whip
antenna bent around the aft side of the rollbar.
According to the instrx, whatever is used, the ELT and the antenna
should be in the same "bay". Van's sells that combo ELT/Strobe power
supply bracket (which I used for the strobe) that fits on the stringers,
but that will only fit directly behind the 706 bulkhead.
It's not big deal, I'm just interested in seeing various permutations
before I dive in.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV-7A (#&^ fiberglass!)
http://rvbuildershotline.com
Day job:
http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214539#214539
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
Well, I don't have data to back me up, but as a fellow ham who dabbles
in the world above 50 MHz (actually, I have stuff for our microwave
bands) and can say that a fuselage would make a "decent" waveguide at
VHF and UHF. Waveguide is made to contain RF. I think putting antennas
INSIDE of a metal container is just asking for it not to radiate to the
outside world when you need it most :) I've often wondered why some
folks get so bent over an external antenna that may cost them a knot or
two. For God's sake, you're going 160 knots in an RV, what's 158
knots? How fast does one need to go? Take it from me, my present ride
cruises at 65 knots or so...I'd be more than happy with 158 ;)
Scott
John Cox wrote:
>
>Bob, I am hoping that this thread actually expands and becomes a Big
>Deal, or at least bigger.
>
>I have felt for some time that the location, mount orientation, ground
>plane and attempt at concealing the antenna actually leads to an
>ineffective or nearly worthless electronic device. That premise was
>based on the 121.5 variant not the 406 however, because one build might
>have mounted it incorrectly, scores follow suit and then the masses
>drink the Kool-Aid. I have always concluded the function might not be
>important, only its presence for the DAR signoff.
>
>I have remained curious how many rescues rather than recoveries "after
>the fact" are attributed to a properly functioning signal and a
>responsible response by the parties that monitor the frequency (either
>121.5 or 406.
>
>As a ham (amateur) radio license holder this pursuit of concealing the
>antenna has always been fascinating. Do any of the readers have signal
>propagation graphs on signal strength radiating from inside the tin can?
>
>John Cox
>Aurora, OR
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcollinsmn
>Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 7:26 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A
>
>
>Yeah, I think you can. According to the instructions, the mounting
>bracket will exchange properly with the existing setups. I'm just
>curious how people are installing. When you read the instructions, it
>sounds like they want it as far in the tail as possible with the antenna
>having this 24" ground plane. But when I've seen various installations,
>it's tucked under the baggage compartment quite often with the whip
>antenna bent around the aft side of the rollbar.
>
>According to the instrx, whatever is used, the ELT and the antenna
>should be in the same "bay". Van's sells that combo ELT/Strobe power
>supply bracket (which I used for the strobe) that fits on the stringers,
>but that will only fit directly behind the 706 bulkhead.
>
>It's not big deal, I'm just interested in seeing various permutations
>before I dive in.
>
>--------
>Bob Collins
>St. Paul, Minn.
>RV-7A (#&^ fiberglass!)
>http://rvbuildershotline.com
>Day job:
>http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214539#214539
>
>
>
>
--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Flying Corben Junior Ace - Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
My premise remains that after the first ineffective install, others
followed by copying, Kool-Aid was passed, really large numbers of
installs supported lack of viable research. The device is aboard, which
meets the letter of the law - Chapter Closed. Practical value - Zilch.
With 406 the discussion deserves to be opened to location within the
aircraft, purpose of the device, mounting technique, ground plane
effectiveness and strong signal propagation (on freq) from a good
distance from the aircraft fuselage regardless of location, orientation
or condition of the airframe.
Bob can give this topic the light that needs to be shed on the issue.
W7COX
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A
Well, I don't have data to back me up, but as a fellow ham who dabbles
in the world above 50 MHz (actually, I have stuff for our microwave
bands) and can say that a fuselage would make a "decent" waveguide at
VHF and UHF. Waveguide is made to contain RF. I think putting antennas
INSIDE of a metal container is just asking for it not to radiate to the
outside world when you need it most :) I've often wondered why some
folks get so bent over an external antenna that may cost them a knot or
two. For God's sake, you're going 160 knots in an RV, what's 158
knots? How fast does one need to go? Take it from me, my present ride
cruises at 65 knots or so...I'd be more than happy with 158 ;)
Scott
John Cox wrote:
>
>Bob, I am hoping that this thread actually expands and becomes a Big
>Deal, or at least bigger.
>
>I have felt for some time that the location, mount orientation, ground
>plane and attempt at concealing the antenna actually leads to an
>ineffective or nearly worthless electronic device. That premise was
>based on the 121.5 variant not the 406 however, because one build might
>have mounted it incorrectly, scores follow suit and then the masses
>drink the Kool-Aid. I have always concluded the function might not be
>important, only its presence for the DAR signoff.
>
>I have remained curious how many rescues rather than recoveries "after
>the fact" are attributed to a properly functioning signal and a
>responsible response by the parties that monitor the frequency (either
>121.5 or 406.
>
>As a ham (amateur) radio license holder this pursuit of concealing the
>antenna has always been fascinating. Do any of the readers have signal
>propagation graphs on signal strength radiating from inside the tin
can?
>
>John Cox
>Aurora, OR
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bcollinsmn
>Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 7:26 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A
>
>
>Yeah, I think you can. According to the instructions, the mounting
>bracket will exchange properly with the existing setups. I'm just
>curious how people are installing. When you read the instructions, it
>sounds like they want it as far in the tail as possible with the
antenna
>having this 24" ground plane. But when I've seen various installations,
>it's tucked under the baggage compartment quite often with the whip
>antenna bent around the aft side of the rollbar.
>
>According to the instrx, whatever is used, the ELT and the antenna
>should be in the same "bay". Van's sells that combo ELT/Strobe power
>supply bracket (which I used for the strobe) that fits on the
stringers,
>but that will only fit directly behind the 706 bulkhead.
>
>It's not big deal, I'm just interested in seeing various permutations
>before I dive in.
>
>--------
>Bob Collins
>St. Paul, Minn.
>RV-7A (#&^ fiberglass!)
>http://rvbuildershotline.com
>Day job:
>http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214539#214539
>
>
>
>
--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Flying Corben Junior Ace - Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
| From: | "bcollinsmn" <bob(at)rvbuildershotline.com> |
AV8ORJWC wrote:
> Bob, I am hoping that this thread actually expands and becomes a Big
> Deal, or at least bigger.
>
> I have felt for some time that the location, mount orientation, ground
> plane and attempt at concealing the antenna actually leads to an
> ineffective or nearly worthless electronic device. That premise was
> based on the 121.5 variant not the 406 however, because one build might
> have mounted it incorrectly, scores follow suit and then the masses
> drink the Kool-Aid.
I spent about $900 on this thing. I was awoken by the crash of Steve Fossett, so
I want to make sure I get it right.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV-7A (#&^ fiberglass!)
http://rvbuildershotline.com
Day job: http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214571#214571
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
> Does anyone know of (or ever heard of) any pilot who crashed and died
> whilst
> awaiting a rescue - someone who lived through the crash but died because
> rescuers didn't get there? >
> Thanks,
> Stein
Interesting question. Personally I have ZERO faith in my ELT "saving" me.
With
121.5 MHz units, a lot of crashes do not activate the ELT. Is there any
proof that
406 MHz units are any better? Not that they are more accurate. Are they
more
reliable in activating when they should?
I have a 406 MHz PLB (GPS model) and intend to install an APRS system
(requires
a ham license) in the future. Along with avoiding pilot error situations
that down the
aircraft, I am not worried nor do I intend to get a 406 MHz ELT.
A Spot system offers far better rescue/recovery functionality (similar to
APRS) than
any ELT in my opinion.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
Does anyone know of (or ever heard of) any pilot who crashed and died whilst
awaiting a rescue - someone who lived through the crash but died because
rescuers didn't get there?
Partner in one of our planes went down trying to cross a local 4000'
mountain pass. He survived the landing in the woods, organized the contents
of the cockpit and certainly could have activated the ELT if it hadn't
deployed. He died trying to walk out through the snow.
DaveB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
| From: | "bcollinsmn" <bob(at)rvbuildershotline.com> |
I don't really see any reason for either-ors here. You outfit your plane for whatever
you want. If safety is a concern -- and it is for me -- that means traffic
avoidance systems, 406 ELTS (yes, they are more accurate than 121.5s), it
means an emergency checklist that includes manually activating the ELT before
ditching, having the mechanism to use the ELT as a radio, it means SPOT, it means
APRS, it means Hooker Harnesses with a crotch strap, it means Oregon Aero
seats, it means having a survival kit, it means having a mechanism to break the
canop and on and on and on.
Now, then, back to the original question...
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV-7A (#&^ fiberglass!)
http://rvbuildershotline.com
Day job: http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214601#214601
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
Sorry about the previous blank message. I have a friend who is the former
head of the Washington State CAP. I just got an email back from him telling
me that he will tell me the whole story of a CAP member who was lost a few
years ago after crashing in the Cascades in bad weather. He was not
seriously injured but died before the rescuers got to him due to exposure
and apparently also because he had left his survival kit in his car.
OK, I found the report:
Terry
NTSB Identification: ANC95GA048 .
The docket is stored in the Docket Management System (DMS). Please contact
Records Management Division
Accident occurred Wednesday, April 12, 1995 in BUMPING LAKE, WA
Probable Cause Approval Date: 9/3/1996
Aircraft: Cessna 182Q, registration: N97843
Injuries: 1 Fatal.
The private pilot, a civil air patrol (CAP) volunteer, was on a CAP flight
for proficiency training and to conduct business. The VFR cross-country
flight was planned over mountainous terrain. The pilot obtained a weather
briefing that included information about icing conditions along the planned
route. During the flight, no communication was received from the pilot other
than activation of his flight plan after departing the airport. The airplane
was reported overdue, but a search was hampered due to IFR conditions and
snow. No transponder code was issued to the airplane, and no discrete radar
data was located in stored radar data to assist in locating the airplane. By
0900 on 4/15/95, analysis of the primary target radar returns helped in
locating the accident airplane. Also, only an intermittent signal was
transmitted from the airplane's emergency locator transmitter (ELT). The
wreckage was located 3 days later, where the airplane had crash landed on
snow covered mountainous terrain. Investigation revealed the pilot initially
survived the accident, but succumbed to hypothermia. He was wearing a flight
suit over dress clothes, a flight jacket, and dress shoes. No survival
equipment was required to be carried in the airplane. The pilot had a
personal survival kit, but had left it in his vehicle at the departure
airport. A note found in the wreckage indicated that the engine lost power.
After recovery, the engine operated normally. The transponder switch was
found in the "standby" position; inspection of the ELT revealed a faulty
tuning crystal. The pilot had received training in survival skills and was a
CAP survival skills instructor.
The National Transportation Safety Board determines the probable cause(s) of
this accident as follows:
A loss of engine power for an undetermined reason. Factors relating to the
accident were: lack of suitable terrain for a forced landing in mountains,
low ambient temperatures that contributed to hypothermia, the lack of
survival equipment, an erratic ELT signal due to a faulty tuning crystal,
and the lack of discrete transponder data to assist in the search.
Full narrative available
Index for Apr1995 | Index of months
This is a question I have that is really a question...and I'm not trying to
be fececious....I truly want to know:
Does anyone know of (or ever heard of) any pilot who crashed and died whilst
awaiting a rescue - someone who lived through the crash but died because
rescuers didn't get there? What I mean is, does any of you know anyone who
crashed, and then waited for CAP or whomever to find them? Typically I
usually see two results from a crash. 1) Death. 2) Non Death - people live
through the crash and crawl/walk/run away. Perhaps there are examples, I've
just been trying for years to find any credible for first hand accounts of
where an ELT did or even could have saved a life.... I'm not interested in
hearing hangar stories or "I heard of", but truly credible instances. They
certainly must be there or we wouldn't have this whole ELT discussion to
begin with. I'm just trying to find such examples.
If you know, please share!
Thanks,
Stein
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
John as a fellow HAM, you know the answer, external, vertical polarization with
a good ground plane. No one has tested these creative internal ELT antenna installations.
It may be fine in a Lancair or Glasair but a all metal RV is not
a good canadate for internal antennas. I can tell you the VHF wing tip com antenna's
are really piss poor. Any one who has one and is honest will tell you.
Some say the wing tip VHF com antenna works. The definition of work is flying
1000' agl towards the airport tower 5 miles infront of you. Forget long distance
omni directional communications at max theoretical range of an airborne 5-10
watt VHF transmitter.
One popular hidden ELT antenna location on RV's is laying the antenna horizontal
in the vertical/horz stab intersection fairing area, under the vertical stabilizer.
It is pretty popular and makes no sense to me from a technical stand
point. I DON'T KNOW OF ANY ONE WHO HAS TESTED IT FORMALLY or INFORMALLY. I personally
think its a bad idea. Hidden use but affective range limited.
The other idea is in the wing but that is a LONG coax run unless you put the
ELT in the wing tip as well. The wing tip is also really terrible for propagation
and practical reasons, like the wing tip rips off. Also access is not great
unless you install an access panel.
The Artex 406 has one antenna for both 406/121.5Mhz about the same dimensions
as current ELT antennas.
The EBC has two antennas, one short 406Mhz antenna and a seperate 121.5 Mhz antenna.
Of course the 406Mhz is very short.
HERE IS SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHT. The DRAG from one typical (20") ELT antenna is
1/8th mph, 0.125 mph penalty (at 200 mph). Is it worth it to hide antennas?
If you are talking about a 406 Mhz only antenna that is a short antenna with
negligible drag. When I raced my RV-4 I took off the Com, VOR antennas for about
1/2 mph to 2/3rds mpg gain. I did put the ELT antenna under the bubble canopy.
Some hide antenna for eye appeal. I think it's not worth it but that is a hard
sale with many builders I consult with.
I think the best NON standard is mounting the antenna or antennas inside the
canopy/cockpit area. The down side is getting a proper ground plane. The old EBC
elts had an internal antenna and the unit was always mounted in the cabin.
The new EBC uses two remote antennas as I mentioned above.
I did a informal survey of RV accidents that where off field and survivable;
many end up on their back, so the belly is not totally a horrible area. That does
not follow the common ELT instructions for mounting the ELT on top of the
aircraft.
Of course any thing that does not follow the ELT's instructions violates the
FAR / STC approved instructions.
Almost all approved ELT installations call for the following:
- Mount ELT as far aft as possible
- Antenna'(s) be mounted close by, no excessive long coaxial run
- Mount the antenna externally.
- Provide maintence access & access after accident
So the approved ideal location is ELT in the tail cone far aft with the antenna'(s)
mounted directly above on the back top, just forward of Vert stabilizer.
The old transmitter was only 100mw and now the new 406 ELT's have 5 watt burst,
so that is better regardless of antenna. Still of the antenna is shielded from
the satellites than you are invisible even with 5 watts. We also still need
121.5 Mhz and 100mw for local DF steer to find us. How far can can 100mw get
out with an antenna buried inside of metal structure? I think you are talking
feet not miles in range.
I just can't stand to see such a violation of good antenna installation practices
for the sake of looks and a tenth of a mph.
Cheers George
*************************************************************************************************
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Bob, I am hoping that this thread actually expands and becomes a Big
Deal, or at least bigger.
I have felt for some time that the location, mount orientation, ground
plane and attempt at concealing the antenna actually leads to an
ineffective or nearly worthless electronic device. That premise was
based on the 121.5 variant not the 406 however, because one build might
have mounted it incorrectly, scores follow suit and then the masses
drink the Kool-Aid. I have always concluded the function might not be
important, only its presence for the DAR signoff.
I have remained curious how many rescues rather than recoveries "after
the fact" are attributed to a properly functioning signal and a
responsible response by the parties that monitor the frequency (either
121.5 or 406.
As a ham (amateur) radio license holder this pursuit of concealing the
antenna has always been fascinating. Do any of the readers have signal
propagation graphs on signal strength radiating from inside the tin
can?
John Cox
Aurora, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
Well just some random musings. I know of TC aircraft with the ELT
antenna bent back under fiberglass ventral fin in otherwise all metal
aircraft..but don't know whether any feds cared about it. I know that my
121 ELT activated on its own in my all metal hangar, and was satellite
detected. Only the weird propagation pattern made it a little difficult
to ascertain it was coming from my hangar and not an ajacent row. So,
not so sure how critical this is, especially at 406 where your radiating
element is approx 1/4 the length of 121 element. Ever look at a police
supervisor car? They often have 5 or 6 UHF antennas around the roof and
trunk, not very far apart. Wonder what issues they have.
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> John as a fellow HAM, you know the answer, external, vertical
> polarization with a good ground plane. No one has tested these
> creative internal ELT antenna installations. It may be fine in a
> Lancair or Glasair but a all metal RV is not a good canadate for
> internal antennas. I can tell you the VHF wing tip com antenna's are
> really piss poor. Any one who has one and is honest will tell you.
> Some say the wing tip VHF com antenna works. The definition of work is
> flying 1000' agl towards the airport tower 5 miles infront of you.
> Forget long distance omni directional communications at max
> theoretical range of an airborne 5-10 watt VHF transmitter.
>
> One popular hidden ELT antenna location on RV's is laying the antenna
> horizontal in the vertical/horz stab intersection fairing area, under
> the vertical stabilizer. It is pretty popular and makes no sense to me
> from a technical stand point. I DON'T KNOW OF ANY ONE WHO HAS TESTED
> IT FORMALLY or INFORMALLY. I personally think its a bad idea. Hidden
> use but affective range limited.
>
> The other idea is in the wing but that is a LONG coax run unless you
> put the ELT in the wing tip as well. The wing tip is also really
> terrible for propagation and practical reasons, like the wing tip rips
> off. Also access is not great unless you install an access panel.
>
> The Artex 406 has one antenna for both 406/121.5Mhz about the same
> dimensions as current ELT antennas.
>
> The EBC has two antennas, one short 406Mhz antenna and a
> seperate 121.5 Mhz antenna. Of course the 406Mhz is very short.
>
> HERE IS SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHT. The DRAG from one typical (20") ELT
> antenna is 1/8th mph, 0.125 mph penalty (at 200 mph). Is it worth it
> to hide antennas?
>
> If you are talking about a 406 Mhz only antenna that is a short
> antenna with negligible drag. When I raced my RV-4 I took off the Com,
> VOR antennas for about 1/2 mph to 2/3rds mpg gain. I did put the ELT
> antenna under the bubble canopy.
>
> Some hide antenna for eye appeal. I think it's not worth it but that
> is a hard sale with many builders I consult with.
>
> I think the best NON standard is mounting the antenna or antennas
> inside the canopy/cockpit area. The down side is getting a proper
> ground plane. The old EBC elts had an internal antenna and the unit
> was always mounted in the cabin. The new EBC uses two remote antennas
> as I mentioned above.
>
> I did a informal survey of RV accidents that where off field and
> survivable; many end up on their back, so the belly is not totally a
> horrible area. That does not follow the common ELT instructions for
> mounting the ELT on top of the aircraft.
>
> Of course any thing that does not follow the ELT's
> instructions violates the FAR / STC approved instructions.
>
> Almost all approved ELT installations call for the following:
>
> - Mount ELT as far aft as possible
> - Antenna'(s) be mounted close by, no excessive long coaxial run
> - Mount the antenna externally.
> - Provide maintence access & access after accident
>
> So the approved ideal location is ELT in the tail cone far aft with
> the antenna'(s) mounted directly above on the back top, just forward
> of Vert stabilizer.
>
> The old transmitter was only 100mw and now the new 406 ELT's have 5
> watt burst, so that is better regardless of antenna. Still of the
> antenna is shielded from the satellites than you are invisible even
> with 5 watts. We also still need 121.5 Mhz and 100mw for local DF
> steer to find us. How far can can 100mw get out with an antenna buried
> inside of metal structure? I think you are talking feet not miles in
> range.
>
> I just can't stand to see such a violation of good antenna
> installation practices for the sake of looks and a tenth of a mph.
>
> Cheers George
>
>
>
> *************************************************************************************************
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A
> From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com
> <http://us.f431.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=johnwcox@pacificnw.com&YY=17621&y5beta=yes&y5beta=yes&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b>>
>
>
> Bob, I am hoping that this thread actually expands and becomes a Big
> Deal, or at least bigger.
>
> I have felt for some time that the location, mount orientation, ground
> plane and attempt at concealing the antenna actually leads to an
> ineffective or nearly worthless electronic device. That premise was
> based on the 121.5 variant not the 406 however, because one build might
> have mounted it incorrectly, scores follow suit and then the masses
> drink the Kool-Aid. I have always concluded the function might not be
> important, only its presence for the DAR signoff.
>
> I have remained curious how many rescues rather than recoveries "after
> the fact" are attributed to a properly functioning signal and a
> responsible response by the parties that monitor the frequency (either
> 121.5 or 406.
>
> As a ham (amateur) radio license holder this pursuit of concealing the
> antenna has always been fascinating. Do any of the readers have signal
> propagation graphs on signal strength radiating from inside the tin
> can?
>
> John Cox
> Aurora, OR
>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re orig question from Bob C |
I didnt build my plane, but the ELT instal does work well (I have tested
it accidently couple times) Unit is mounted on side of Fusl midway in
baggage far enuf forward to give clearance to remove bulkhead. Thin flex
whip ant mounted just aft of where open canopy rests. Charles H
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trio Auto Pilot FS |
| From: | "PaulR" <prose(at)panhandle.rr.com> |
> Would like to know what is the name of the unit etc. never heard of
> golden trio." I am looking for the Altitude Holder....
> thanks for any info
>
Robert,
The "Gold" servo is the ONLY one Trio has. It will work with either axis.
The Trio unit will also work with the old Navaid servos if I'm not mistaken.
I have only the servo and the install kit for sale.
--------
Paul Rose
N417PR (res)
RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=214659#214659
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV : [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available! |
| From: | Email List PhotoShares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List PhotoShare is available:
Poster: Rob Ray
Lists: RV-List,Rocket-List,RV4-List,RV8-List
Subject: Vets Day Fly-By...
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| Subject: | RV : [ Al Herron ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available! |
| From: | Email List PhotoShares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List PhotoShare is available:
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Lists: RV-List
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
When I was flying missions with Civil Air Patrol in the State of Oregon we
had far more 121.5 ELT false alarms than real activations but...we responded
to every one of them and learned some lessons along the way. Most of the
missions I was associated with were production spam cans who had their
antennas mounted on top of the fuselage behind the cockpit. Yes it's ugly
but they put them there for a reason. When the ELT IS activated in a crash,
these installations have the BEST chance of being located by search and
rescue (SAR).
Scott's waveguide premise is correct, the cockpit does make a great one and
NO that is not helpful in getting one located and rescued in a timely
manner. If you land (crash) right side up that waveguide will direct the ELT
signal upward where the satellites will receive it. But, once the 121.5 ELT
is heard by the satellite and a SAR aircraft dispatched, the area to be
searched is still quite large. The SAR aircraft has to be able to "hear" the
ELT in order to pinpoint you. If your installation is in the cockpit then
this waveguide effect means that the SAR aircraft's direction finding (DF)
equipment needs to be A LOT closer to you to pick up the signal. That takes
more time in the grid and eats up precious time getting help to a stricken
pilot who may be badly injured.
This waveguide effect was brought home to me quite vividly on one CAP
practice mission where our incident commander placed the ELT inside a metal
garbage can and then tipped the can on its side with the open end facing a
mountain peak. We spent hours with the direction finder pointed at the
mountain listening to the reflected signal from the garbage can waveguide
and searched all over that mountain but never located the "stricken"
aircraft. A frustrating exercise but very eye opening.
John is correct, the practical value of "hiding" the ELT antenna along the
roll bar or under the tail fairing is ZILCH!!! I just finished my RV-6A and
mounted the ELT antenna on the top of the fuselage behind the sliding
canopy. Yup it's ugly sticking up there but...if I do go down and the unit
is activated, that location gives me the best chance of being found as fast
as possible. Yes I know the activation rate is not that great but...you
spent good money on and are installing a tool that could save your life in
an emergency so why not give yourself the best chance of having it do some
good.
Since 406 MHz ELTs still use radio waves to perform their magic, everything
I just mentioned applies. There will be a lot fewer false alarms on the 406
ELTs IF AND ONLY IF all you aviators out there fill out your registration
cards and mail them in. Then, when the USAF search and rescue center gets
your signal they can phone you right away and find out whether it's just a
false alarm or a real emergency. The good news is, if it's a real emergency
the satellites will pick up your 406 MHz signal quicker and locate you
within a smaller radius of area. The only down side is for the SAR team,
the 406 ELTs send out a burst of data every so often as opposed to the
continuous transmission of the 121.5 units. This makes DF tracking a little
more difficult but you should still be found much more quickly than before.
Recommendation: read the instructions that come with your unit and mount the
antenna where they say to do so. If no instruction, mount on top of the wing
or fuselage in an open area with the least potential for reflections. And
PLEASE PLEASE register your unit. I live in Florida now where boaters have
had 406 MHz EPIRBs for a long time. Problem is, there are still lots of
false alarms because boaters have a dismal record of registering their
units!! Fill out that card and send it in.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
First flight scheduled for this Saturday.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
All of this discussion regarding mounting of the ELT antenna is very intere
sting and eye opening, but we -8 builders have one issue:- There is simpl
y no place on top of the fuselage to mount the antenna because the canopy o
n the -8 slides all they way back to the vertical stabilizer when it's open
!- As far as I can tell, this leaves only the options of mounting the ant
enna in the cockpit, or underneath the empennage fairing as others have don
e.- Anyone have any other suggestions?
Skylor
RV-8 under construction (getting close)
--- On Mon, 11/17/08, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote
:
From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
Date: Monday, November 17, 2008, 7:43 PM
When I was flying missions with Civil Air Patrol in the State of Oregon we
had far more 121.5 ELT false alarms than real activations but...we responde
d
to every one of them and learned some lessons along the way. Most of the
missions I was associated with were production spam cans who had their
antennas mounted on top of the fuselage behind the cockpit. Yes it's ugly
but they put them there for a reason. When the ELT IS activated in a crash,
these installations have the BEST chance of being located by search and
rescue (SAR).
Scott's waveguide premise is correct, the cockpit does make a great one and
NO that is not helpful in getting one located and rescued in a timely
manner. If you land (crash) right side up that waveguide will direct the EL
T
signal upward where the satellites will receive it. But, once the 121.5 ELT
is heard by the satellite and a SAR aircraft dispatched, the area to be
searched is still quite large. The SAR aircraft has to be able to
"hear" the
ELT in order to pinpoint you. If your installation is in the cockpit then
this waveguide effect means that the SAR aircraft's direction finding (DF)
equipment needs to be A LOT closer to you to pick up the signal. That take
s
more time in the grid and eats up precious time getting help to a stricken
pilot who may be badly injured.
This waveguide effect was brought home to me quite vividly on one CAP
practice mission where our incident commander placed the ELT inside a metal
garbage can and then tipped the can on its side with the open end facing a
mountain peak. We spent hours with the direction finder pointed at the
mountain listening to the reflected signal from the garbage can waveguide
and searched all over that mountain but never located the "stricken"
aircraft. A frustrating exercise but very eye opening.
John is correct, the practical value of "hiding" the ELT antenna
along the
roll bar or under the tail fairing is ZILCH!!! I just finished my RV-6A an
d
mounted the ELT antenna on the top of the fuselage behind the sliding
canopy. Yup it's ugly sticking up there but...if I do go down and the unit
is activated, that location gives me the best chance of being found as fast
as possible. Yes I know the activation rate is not that great but...you
spent good money on and are installing a tool that could save your life in
an emergency so why not give yourself the best chance of having it do some
good.
Since 406 MHz ELTs still use radio waves to perform their magic, everything
I just mentioned applies. There will be a lot fewer false alarms on the 40
6
ELTs IF AND ONLY IF all you aviators out there fill out your registration
cards and mail them in. Then, when the USAF search and rescue center gets
your signal they can phone you right away and find out whether it's just a
false alarm or a real emergency. The good news is, if it's a real
emergency
the satellites will pick up your 406 MHz signal quicker and locate you
within a smaller radius of area. The only down side is for the SAR team,
the 406 ELTs send out a burst of data every so often as opposed to the
continuous transmission of the 121.5 units. This makes DF tracking a littl
e
more difficult but you should still be found much more quickly than before.
Recommendation: read the instructions that come with your unit and mount th
e
antenna where they say to do so. If no instruction, mount on top of the win
g
or fuselage in an open area with the least potential for reflections. And
PLEASE PLEASE register your unit. I live in Florida now where boaters have
had 406 MHz EPIRBs for a long time. Problem is, there are still lots of
false alarms because boaters have a dismal record of registering their
units!! Fill out that card and send it in.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
First flight scheduled for this Saturday.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_W?= <michele.delsol(at)microsigma.fr> |
| Subject: | 406 MHz ELT and RV8 |
I changed the subject because I feel that there is a definite issue as
to
ELT mounting on RV8s as Skylor mentioned.
The canopy slides back all the way against the vertical stabilizer
fairing '
so that leaves no room on the back deck. On the premise that the antenna
must be vertical, this leaves the following areas on the outside:
=B7 On top of the vertical stabilizer
=B7 Forward of the wind shield
=B7 On top of one of the wings ' certainly feasible but so
ugly!!!
=B7 On the rear of the canopy fairing ' ground plane issue ?
Furthermore would require that the antenna cable move back and forth
with
the canopy.
Inside of the cockpit would seem to be a bad compromise as it would not
be
vertical and would be close to metal, hence serious concerns as to its
transmission capabilities.
As to mounting it under the vertical stabilizer, horizontally, probably
a
bad compromise as the antenna is horizontal and masked by a fair amount
of
metal.
Then there is another issue. If the plane tips over during the crash,
then
all the topside locations are rendered useless.
Question : Is it OK to place two antennas on one line via a splitter or
are
splitters good only for receiving antennas such as VOR + ILS. If that
were
the case, then it would be possible to have two ELT antennas, one on top
and
one on the belly. The down side would be that if the belly antenna were
zapped during the crash, it might ground the cable and render the top
antenna useless.
Any thoughts ?
Mich=E8le
RV8
De : owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Skylor Piper
Envoy=E9 : mardi 18 novembre 2008 06:32
=C0 : rv-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : Re: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
All of this discussion regarding mounting of the ELT antenna is very
interesting and eye opening, but we -8 builders have one issue: There
is
simply no place on top of the fuselage to mount the antenna because the
canopy on the -8 slides all they way back to the vertical stabilizer
when
it's open! As far as I can tell, this leaves only the options of
mounting
the antenna in the cockpit, or underneath the empennage fairing as
others
have done. Anyone have any other suggestions?
Skylor
RV-8 under construction (getting close)
--- On Mon, 11/17/08, DEAN PSIROPOULOS
wrote:
From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
Date: Monday, November 17, 2008, 7:43 PM
When I was flying missions with Civil Air Patrol in the State of Oregon
we
had far more 121.5 ELT false alarms than real activations but...we
responded
to every one of them and learned some lessons along the way. Most of
the
missions I was associated with were production spam cans who had their
antennas mounted on top of the fuselage behind the cockpit. Yes it's
ugly
but they put them there for a reason. When the ELT IS activated in a
crash,
these installations have the BEST chance of being located by search and
rescue (SAR).
Scott's waveguide premise is correct, the cockpit does make a great one
and
NO that is not helpful in getting one located and rescued in a timely
manner. If you land (crash) right side up that waveguide will direct the
ELT
signal upward where the satellites will receive it. But, once the 121.5
ELT
is heard by the satellite and a SAR aircraft dispatched, the area to be
searched is still quite large. The SAR aircraft has to be able to
"hear" the
ELT in order to pinpoint you. If your installation is in the cockpit
then
this waveguide effect means that the SAR aircraft's direction finding
(DF)
equipment needs to be A LOT closer to you to pick up the signal. That
takes
more time in the grid and eats up precious time getting help to a
stricken
pilot who may be badly injured.
This waveguide effect was brought home to me quite vividly on one CAP
practice mission where our incident commander placed the ELT inside a
metal
garbage can and then tipped the can on its side with the open end facing
a
mountain peak. We spent hours with the direction finder pointed at the
mountain listening to the reflected signal from the garbage can
waveguide
and searched all over that mountain but never located the "stricken"
aircraft. A frustrating exercise but very eye opening.
John is correct, the practical value of "hiding" the ELT antenna
along the
roll bar or under the tail fairing is ZILCH!!! I just finished my RV-6A
and
mounted the ELT antenna on the top of the fuselage behind the sliding
canopy. Yup it's ugly sticking up there but...if I do go down and the
unit
is activated, that location gives me the best chance of being found as
fast
as possible. Yes I know the activation rate is not that great but...you
spent good money on and are installing a tool that could save your life
in
an emergency so why not give yourself the best chance of having it do
some
good.
Since 406 MHz ELTs still use radio waves to perform their magic,
everything
I just mentioned applies. There will be a lot fewer false alarms on the
406
ELTs IF AND ONLY IF
all you aviators out there fill out your registration
cards and mail them in. Then, when the USAF search and rescue center
gets
your signal they can phone you right away and find out whether it's just
a
false alarm or a real emergency. The good news is, if it's a real
emergency
the satellites will pick up your 406 MHz signal quicker and locate you
within a smaller radius of area. The only down side is for the SAR
team,
the 406 ELTs send out a burst of data every so often as opposed to the
continuous transmission of the 121.5 units. This makes DF tracking a
little
more difficult but you should still be found much more quickly than
before.
Recommendation: read the instructions that come with your unit and mount
the
antenna where they say to do so. If no instruction, mount on top of the
wing
or fuselage in an open area with the least potential for reflections.
And
PLEASE PLEASE register your unit. I live
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Members Are Saying... |
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Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
I have my antenna mounted just in front of the vertical stabilizer. My
thinking was in a rollover the stabilizer *might* protect the antenna from
being smashed. Now I am wondering if the stabilizer causes any shielding of
the signal. Dean, any thoughts on that?
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 100 hours now
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DEAN PSIROPOULOS
> Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 9:43 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
>
>
>
> When I was flying missions with Civil Air Patrol in the State of Oregon
> we
> had far more 121.5 ELT false alarms than real activations but...we
> responded
> to every one of them and learned some lessons along the way. Most of
> the
> missions I was associated with were production spam cans who had their
> antennas mounted on top of the fuselage behind the cockpit. Yes it's
> ugly
> but they put them there for a reason. When the ELT IS activated in a
> crash,
> these installations have the BEST chance of being located by search and
> rescue (SAR).
>
> Scott's waveguide premise is correct, the cockpit does make a great one
> and
> NO that is not helpful in getting one located and rescued in a timely
> manner. If you land (crash) right side up that waveguide will direct
> the ELT
> signal upward where the satellites will receive it. But, once the 121.5
> ELT
> is heard by the satellite and a SAR aircraft dispatched, the area to be
> searched is still quite large. The SAR aircraft has to be able to
> "hear" the
> ELT in order to pinpoint you. If your installation is in the cockpit
> then
> this waveguide effect means that the SAR aircraft's direction finding
> (DF)
> equipment needs to be A LOT closer to you to pick up the signal. That
> takes
> more time in the grid and eats up precious time getting help to a
> stricken
> pilot who may be badly injured.
>
> This waveguide effect was brought home to me quite vividly on one CAP
> practice mission where our incident commander placed the ELT inside a
> metal
> garbage can and then tipped the can on its side with the open end
> facing a
> mountain peak. We spent hours with the direction finder pointed at the
> mountain listening to the reflected signal from the garbage can
> waveguide
> and searched all over that mountain but never located the "stricken"
> aircraft. A frustrating exercise but very eye opening.
>
> John is correct, the practical value of "hiding" the ELT antenna along
> the
> roll bar or under the tail fairing is ZILCH!!! I just finished my RV-
> 6A and
> mounted the ELT antenna on the top of the fuselage behind the sliding
> canopy. Yup it's ugly sticking up there but...if I do go down and the
> unit
> is activated, that location gives me the best chance of being found as
> fast
> as possible. Yes I know the activation rate is not that great
> but...you
> spent good money on and are installing a tool that could save your life
> in
> an emergency so why not give yourself the best chance of having it do
> some
> good.
>
> Since 406 MHz ELTs still use radio waves to perform their magic,
> everything
> I just mentioned applies. There will be a lot fewer false alarms on
> the 406
> ELTs IF AND ONLY IF all you aviators out there fill out your
> registration
> cards and mail them in. Then, when the USAF search and rescue center
> gets
> your signal they can phone you right away and find out whether it's
> just a
> false alarm or a real emergency. The good news is, if it's a real
> emergency
> the satellites will pick up your 406 MHz signal quicker and locate you
> within a smaller radius of area. The only down side is for the SAR
> team,
> the 406 ELTs send out a burst of data every so often as opposed to the
> continuous transmission of the 121.5 units. This makes DF tracking a
> little
> more difficult but you should still be found much more quickly than
> before.
>
>
> Recommendation: read the instructions that come with your unit and
> mount the
> antenna where they say to do so. If no instruction, mount on top of the
> wing
> or fuselage in an open area with the least potential for reflections.
> And
> PLEASE PLEASE register your unit. I live in Florida now where boaters
> have
> had 406 MHz EPIRBs for a long time. Problem is, there are still lots of
> false alarms because boaters have a dismal record of registering their
> units!! Fill out that card and send it in.
>
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> First flight scheduled for this Saturday.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 406 MHz ELT and RV8 |
I think you can put it on top off center-line just aft of the sliding canopy?
>From: = <michele.delsol(at)microsigma.fr>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT and RV8
>
>I changed the subject because I feel that there is a definite issue as
>to ELT mounting on RV8s as Skylor mentioned.
>
>The canopy slides back all the way against the vertical stabilizer
>fairing ' so that leaves no room on the back deck.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | slider aft seal "lanyard" |
| From: | "Herron, Al" <Al.Herron(at)aerojet.com> |
Slider canopy builders: Van's plans call for attaching the C-679 "slide
seal" (the little nylon doohickey that follows the canopy like a
Chihuahua on a leash) with either nylon fishing line or 1/16" aircraft
cable. The fishing line I didn't think would last very long, and I
found that the aircraft cable was scratching a nasty groove in the
slider rail. I came up with an idea I think works a little better: I
used a 0.012" stainless "tape", or strap, instead. Easy to make,
durable, and doesn't damage the rail. I've posted a diagram in
yesterday's (11/17) RV List as a photoshare (PDF file):
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/herronpvf@sbcglobal.net.11.17.2008
________________________________________________________________________________
Regardless of where you choose to mount the antenna and for whatever reason,
consider the routing of the cable from the ELT to the antenna. If you route
it through or near bulkheads or metal edges, it can be severed in a crash.
My ELT was mounted on the keel by the elevator bellcrank in my -6, the
antenna on the seatback cross member and the cable routed under the baggage
floor and thru the rear spar bulkhead. Although my crash was upright, the
cable was severed by the crushed and twisted structure. No signal was ever
detected. I'm keeping the cable for the new one inside the tailcone with the
antenna somewhere back there too.
Regards,
Greg Young
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Jerry Springer
> Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 10:55 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
>
>
> DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
> >-->
> >
> >
>
>
>
> >I just finished my RV-6A and
> >mounted the ELT antenna on the top of the fuselage behind
> the sliding
> >canopy. Yup it's ugly sticking up there but...if I do go
> down and the
> >unit is activated, that location gives me the best chance of being
> >found as fast as possible.
> >
> >Dean Psiropoulos
> >RV-6A N197DM
> >First flight scheduled for this Saturday.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Of course it well not do much good if you are inverted and
> the antenna is bent over against the fuselage or is broken off.
> I am one of those people that mounted mine inside under the
> roll over frame on a tip up, it has just as much chance of
> working there as anywhere else.
>
> Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
Excellent point Greg! I mounted my ELT in the baggage compartment up
against the baggage closure and the cable runs through the tail cone but not
through any holes. It is tie wired to the formers and hopefully that
wouldn't be an issue. I hadn't thought of that, just did it that way as it
was easy.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 100 hours now
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Young
> Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 11:17 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
>
>
> Regardless of where you choose to mount the antenna and for whatever
> reason,
> consider the routing of the cable from the ELT to the antenna. If you
> route
> it through or near bulkheads or metal edges, it can be severed in a
> crash.
> My ELT was mounted on the keel by the elevator bellcrank in my -6, the
> antenna on the seatback cross member and the cable routed under the
> baggage
> floor and thru the rear spar bulkhead. Although my crash was upright,
> the
> cable was severed by the crushed and twisted structure. No signal was
> ever
> detected. I'm keeping the cable for the new one inside the tailcone
> with the
> antenna somewhere back there too.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Bob Collins asked a question that has not yet been directly answered.
The question I wanted expanded was to clarify for the masses that 121.5
ELTs have been installed without much consideration for intended
function. Vanity and foolhearty following the builder before you leads
to widely accepted misunderstandings. "Oh, I did it because twenty
other guys in my EAA chapter have done the same thing and it seemed
okay".
Stein has not answered if he can measure the strength and directional
pattern or who else might. Bob is still waiting for more clarity.
Several have made excellent posts. My question remaining is what is the
required polarity needed (Horizontal or Vertical), how will that antenna
installed work in the event the required device is needed as in the case
of Steve Fossett. Several posters added anecdotes on lives lost because
ELTS don't work as needed (which may often be because of installation
errors). We should all know those errors. We should know how effective
our installed antennae are working. We should be protective of the
distance and routing of the coax (Bob's question). Just because you can
get an annunciation during a test function does not mean that the
aircraft can be located before the battery goes dead from a few thousand
yards away.
Antenna propagation is still on the table. The idea of a belly mounted
antenna because so many flip over or are stuck nose down is an
interesting one.
John Cox
W7COX
RV builder #40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 11:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
Excellent point Greg! I mounted my ELT in the baggage compartment up
against the baggage closure and the cable runs through the tail cone but
not
through any holes. It is tie wired to the formers and hopefully that
wouldn't be an issue. I hadn't thought of that, just did it that way as
it
was easy.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 100 hours now
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Young
> Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 11:17 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
>
>
> Regardless of where you choose to mount the antenna and for whatever
> reason,
> consider the routing of the cable from the ELT to the antenna. If you
> route
> it through or near bulkheads or metal edges, it can be severed in a
> crash.
> My ELT was mounted on the keel by the elevator bellcrank in my -6, the
> antenna on the seatback cross member and the cable routed under the
> baggage
> floor and thru the rear spar bulkhead. Although my crash was upright,
> the
> cable was severed by the crushed and twisted structure. No signal was
> ever
> detected. I'm keeping the cable for the new one inside the tailcone
> with the
> antenna somewhere back there too.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mich=E8le_B?= <michele.delsol(at)microsigma.fr> |
I had asked the question - how about two antennas, one top side and one
belly mounted, via a splitter. Is that an option ?
Thanks,
Michle
-----Message d'origine-----
De: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de John Cox
Envoy: mardi 18 novembre 2008 20:34
: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Objet: RE: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
Bob Collins asked a question that has not yet been directly answered.
The question I wanted expanded was to clarify for the masses that 121.5
ELTs have been installed without much consideration for intended
function. Vanity and foolhearty following the builder before you leads
to widely accepted misunderstandings. "Oh, I did it because twenty
other guys in my EAA chapter have done the same thing and it seemed
okay".
Stein has not answered if he can measure the strength and directional
pattern or who else might. Bob is still waiting for more clarity.
Several have made excellent posts. My question remaining is what is the
required polarity needed (Horizontal or Vertical), how will that antenna
installed work in the event the required device is needed as in the case
of Steve Fossett. Several posters added anecdotes on lives lost because
ELTS don't work as needed (which may often be because of installation
errors). We should all know those errors. We should know how effective
our installed antennae are working. We should be protective of the
distance and routing of the coax (Bob's question). Just because you can
get an annunciation during a test function does not mean that the
aircraft can be located before the battery goes dead from a few thousand
yards away.
Antenna propagation is still on the table. The idea of a belly mounted
antenna because so many flip over or are stuck nose down is an
interesting one.
John Cox
W7COX
RV builder #40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 11:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
Excellent point Greg! I mounted my ELT in the baggage compartment up
against the baggage closure and the cable runs through the tail cone but
not
through any holes. It is tie wired to the formers and hopefully that
wouldn't be an issue. I hadn't thought of that, just did it that way as
it
was easy.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 100 hours now
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Young
> Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 11:17 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
>
>
> Regardless of where you choose to mount the antenna and for whatever
> reason,
> consider the routing of the cable from the ELT to the antenna. If you
> route
> it through or near bulkheads or metal edges, it can be severed in a
> crash.
> My ELT was mounted on the keel by the elevator bellcrank in my -6, the
> antenna on the seatback cross member and the cable routed under the
> baggage
> floor and thru the rear spar bulkhead. Although my crash was upright,
> the
> cable was severed by the crushed and twisted structure. No signal was
> ever
> detected. I'm keeping the cable for the new one inside the tailcone
> with the
> antenna somewhere back there too.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young
________________________________________________________________________________
Another reality is access after the crash may not be easy or even possible
if you're thinking you can actually use the portability feature of the ELT.
Fasteners that were normally accessible may be blocked by bent metal or even
bent themselves. I had to cut a hole to get mine out of the salvage. EPLB's
probably make more sense if you want to assure use in the aftermath.
Regards,
Greg Young
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
> Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 1:00 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
>
>
> Excellent point Greg! I mounted my ELT in the baggage
> compartment up against the baggage closure and the cable runs
> through the tail cone but not through any holes. It is tie
> wired to the formers and hopefully that wouldn't be an issue.
> I hadn't thought of that, just did it that way as it was easy.
>
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 Flying
> N616TB over 100 hours now
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
EPLB's > probably make more sense if you want to assure use in the
aftermath.
PLBs...unless the terms have changed. EPIRBs are boat units.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Barrett" <2thman(at)cablespeed.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Cowl attachments |
I have posted some new pages on the Carbinge website showing Art Bertolina's
beautiful Lancair IV cowling assembled with Carbinge and Carbinge keepers.
See this URL:
http://carbinge.com/cowl_attach.htm
Additionally there is a page that explains how Art achieved this result:
http://carbinge.com/Schematic%20of%20complete%20cowl%20attachment.htm
Regards,
John Barrett, CEO
Leading Edge Composites
PO Box 428
Port Hadlock, WA 98339
www.carbinge.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
| From: | "bcollinsmn" <bob(at)rvbuildershotline.com> |
So, umm, back to the original question. Does anyone have any images of their antenna
installation for this configuration. Just curious. Thanks.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV-7A (#&^ fiberglass!)
http://rvbuildershotline.com
Day job: http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215192#215192
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
Just in front of the vertical stab is still a very good location (mine is
about 18 inches forward of the vertical stab). Since the vertical
stabilizer is quite narrow and parallel to the antenna there will be very
little interference or reflection off of the leading edge. It's the folks
who have mounted the ELT antenna underneath the fiberglas tail intersection
fairing that are really limiting their usefulness. In that location the
antenna is mounted horizontally on the aft turtle deck bulkhead (RV-6/7/9)
projecting out into the 90 degree corner created by the intersection of the
vertical and horizontal stabilizers. That creates an excellent waveguide
effect, blocking the signal from reaching half of the area on the other side
of the aircraft.
Jerry, I understand the thinking about putting the antenna on the bottom and
it's another one of those multitude of "what if" scenarios that we RV
builders run through our heads so many times while we're building. I guess
to answer that somebody has to do some research on how many downed RVs have
ended up on their backs. I have heard of several but don't know just what
percentage of ALL RV accidents they actually make up. If you put it under
the wing and you stay right side up in a crash, you will be attenuating a
good bit of the signal and shortening the range at which you can be
detected. If you put it between the trailing edge of the wing and the
forward edge of the horizontal stab (top or bottom of fuselage) your range
should be quite good (right side up or upside down). Then you have to start
thinking about how to keep the antenna from being ripped off in the crash
(Tim Bryan's idea). And so the thought process goes... sometimes being a
safety analyst makes my brain hurt but, more food for thought.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
> -----Original Message-----
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
I have my antenna mounted just in front of the vertical stabilizer. My
thinking was in a rollover the stabilizer *might* protect the antenna from
being smashed. Now I am wondering if the stabilizer causes any shielding of
the signal. Dean, any thoughts on that?
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 100 hours now
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
Dean and all,
I would like to add one more thought about where to put the ELT antenna.
It shouldn't be what percentage land on their backs but ...
If the plane stay upright, there is a great chance that I am relatively OK,
and the ELT will be the least of my problems,
however, if the plane ends up on its back, then the crash was not controlled
and there will be a good chance that I am NOT OK.
And any help the ELT can be might make all the difference.
Of course, there is no good answer for crashing. And remember most things
on the ground are harder than your plane. :-(
Lets hope no one has need of their ELT.
GummiBear
Air Force Chief of Safety at Incirlik AB, Turkey (many years ago)
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 9:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
>
>
> Just in front of the vertical stab is still a very good location (mine is
> about 18 inches forward of the vertical stab). Since the vertical
> stabilizer is quite narrow and parallel to the antenna there will be very
> little interference or reflection off of the leading edge. It's the folks
> who have mounted the ELT antenna underneath the fiberglas tail
> intersection
> fairing that are really limiting their usefulness. In that location the
> antenna is mounted horizontally on the aft turtle deck bulkhead (RV-6/7/9)
> projecting out into the 90 degree corner created by the intersection of
> the
> vertical and horizontal stabilizers. That creates an excellent waveguide
> effect, blocking the signal from reaching half of the area on the other
> side
> of the aircraft.
>
> Jerry, I understand the thinking about putting the antenna on the bottom
> and
> it's another one of those multitude of "what if" scenarios that we RV
> builders run through our heads so many times while we're building. I
> guess
> to answer that somebody has to do some research on how many downed RVs
> have
> ended up on their backs. I have heard of several but don't know just what
> percentage of ALL RV accidents they actually make up. If you put it under
> the wing and you stay right side up in a crash, you will be attenuating a
> good bit of the signal and shortening the range at which you can be
> detected. If you put it between the trailing edge of the wing and the
> forward edge of the horizontal stab (top or bottom of fuselage) your range
> should be quite good (right side up or upside down). Then you have to
> start
> thinking about how to keep the antenna from being ripped off in the crash
> (Tim Bryan's idea). And so the thought process goes... sometimes being a
> safety analyst makes my brain hurt but, more food for thought.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: 406 MHz ELT
>
> I have my antenna mounted just in front of the vertical stabilizer. My
> thinking was in a rollover the stabilizer *might* protect the antenna from
> being smashed. Now I am wondering if the stabilizer causes any shielding
> of
> the signal. Dean, any thoughts on that?
>
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 Flying
> N616TB over 100 hours now
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 3626 (20081119) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Behind By 21% - Advertising May Be Needed...? |
Dear Listers,
The percentage of people making a Contribution to support the Lists this year is
currently lagging behind last year by approximately 21%! I'm hoping that everyone
is just waiting until the last minute to show their support... ;-)
Please remember that it is solely your direct Contributions that keep these Lists
up and running and most importantly - AD FREE! If the members don't want to
support the Lists directly, then I will likely have to start adding advertisements
to offset the costs of running the Lists. But I *really* don't want to
have to start doing that. I really like the non-commercial atmosphere here and
I think that a lot of the members appreciate that too.
Please take a moment to make a Contribution today in support of the continued ad-free
operation of all these Lists:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I want to send out a word of appreciation to all of the members that have already
made their generous Contribution to support the Lists! Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "panamared5" <panamared5(at)brier.net> |
All of this discussion regarding mounting of the ELT antenna is very
interesting and eye opening, but we -8 builders have one issue: There is
simply no place on top of the fuselage to mount the antenna because the
canopy on the -8 slides all they way back to the vertical stabilizer when
it's open! As far as I can tell, this leaves only the options of mounting
the antenna in the cockpit, or underneath the empennage fairing as others
have done. Anyone have any other suggestions?
How about in front of the canopy. On the wing, or on the fuselage side
angled up at a 45 degrees. Recommendation: do what ever you want, it is
your airplane.
What I like about this list is we can truly beat a horse to death!
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Cowl attachments |
What is a carbinge? On our Rv's we use a hinge to get the same result.
what is a carbinge keeper? would like to see one...
thanks
robert
--- On Tue, 11/18/08, John Barrett <2thman(at)cablespeed.com> wrote:
> From: John Barrett <2thman(at)cablespeed.com>
> Subject: RV-List: FW: Cowl attachments
> To: "'RV-List Digest Server'"
> Date: Tuesday, November 18, 2008, 10:26 PM
> <2thman(at)cablespeed.com>
>
>
> I have posted some new pages on the Carbinge website
> showing Art Bertolina's
> beautiful Lancair IV cowling assembled with Carbinge and
> Carbinge keepers.
> See this URL:
>
> http://carbinge.com/cowl_attach.htm
>
> Additionally there is a page that explains how Art achieved
> this result:
>
> http://carbinge.com/Schematic%20of%20complete%20cowl%20attachment.htm
>
>
> Regards,
>
> John Barrett, CEO
> Leading Edge Composites
> PO Box 428
> Port Hadlock, WA 98339
> www.carbinge.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Cowl attachments |
Hi Bert,
See: http://www.carbinge.com/ and
http://www.carbinge.com/Keepers.htm
Richard Dudley
----- Original Message -----
From: "bert murillo" <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: FW: Cowl attachments
>
> What is a carbinge? On our Rv's we use a hinge to get the same result.
>
> what is a carbinge keeper? would like to see one...
>
> thanks
> robert
>
>
> --- On Tue, 11/18/08, John Barrett <2thman(at)cablespeed.com> wrote:
>
>> From: John Barrett <2thman(at)cablespeed.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: FW: Cowl attachments
>> To: "'RV-List Digest Server'"
>> Date: Tuesday, November 18, 2008, 10:26 PM
>> <2thman(at)cablespeed.com>
>>
>>
>> I have posted some new pages on the Carbinge website
>> showing Art Bertolina's
>> beautiful Lancair IV cowling assembled with Carbinge and
>> Carbinge keepers.
>> See this URL:
>>
>> http://carbinge.com/cowl_attach.htm
>>
>> Additionally there is a page that explains how Art achieved
>> this result:
>>
>> http://carbinge.com/Schematic%20of%20complete%20cowl%20attachment.htm
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> John Barrett, CEO
>> Leading Edge Composites
>> PO Box 428
>> Port Hadlock, WA 98339
>> www.carbinge.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Pedal plane kits |
Not to digress too far from the recent ELT thread but does anyone have the contact
information for the guy who displays the child pedal planes at Air Venture.
I'm particularly interested in the hardware and plans sets that I understand
he sells.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 527 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Newburg <jason_newburg(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New Lycoming IO 390 |
New, IO390 Lycoming for sale. Warranty starts from in service date.
$29500.
Original list $33000.
Pricing increase from Lycoming is comming.
Jason Newburg
(386)451-6094
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "smitty(at)smittysrv.com" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
| Subject: | Pedal plane kits |
Don't know who it was, but Aircraft Spruce has some cool kits:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/pedalplanes.php
Smitty
Original Message:
-----------------
From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 17:59:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: RV-List: Pedal plane kits
Not to digress too far from the recent ELT thread but does anyone have the
contact information for the guy who displays the child pedal planes at Air
Venture. I'm particularly interested in the hardware and plans sets that I
understand he sells.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 527 hours
--------------------------------------------------------------------
myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft Windows and Linux web and application
hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fisher Paul A." <FisherPaulA(at)johndeere.com> |
| Subject: | Pedal plane kits |
How about here: http://www.pedalplanekits.com/. The email address lists Gary Sampson in Cedar Rapids Iowa. That should get you close.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of smitty(at)smittysrv.com
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 13:30
Subject: RE: RV-List: Pedal plane kits
-->
Don't know who it was, but Aircraft Spruce has some cool kits:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/pedalplanes.php
Smitty
Original Message:
-----------------
From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 17:59:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: RV-List: Pedal plane kits
Not to digress too far from the recent ELT thread but does anyone have the contact
information for the guy who displays the child pedal planes at Air Venture.
I'm particularly interested in the hardware and plans sets that I understand
he sells.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 527 hours
--------------------------------------------------------------------
myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft(r) Windows(r) and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Plexiglass Scratch Repair... |
Dear Listers,
During the fitting of the Plexiglass canopy on my RV-8, I managed to put some pretty
disheartening scratches in the windscreen section. You can see from the
pictures that they looked pretty bad. A call to Van's revealed that a replacement
canopy would be $640 + $250 shipping to California! Ack.
So what to do... A bit of surfing and I found this "Scratch Off" windshield repair
kit for $35 on the Aircraft Spruce web site:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/scratchoff.php
Frankly, it just seemed too good to be true. Nothing for $35 could be that "magic"
I thought, but what did I have to lose at this point....
Well, the kit arrived yesterday and I decided to give it a try tonight. In a word:
WOW! In about 2 hours the windscreen looked as good as new - no kidding
- AS GOOD AS NEW! The pictures really don't do the repair justice. It looks
better in person.
There are basically two sponges in the kit with four decreasingly porous pastes.
You just put some of the first paste on the sponge and buff it in with a drill
at 1200 RPM or less. Then you wash everything down good including the sponge
and windshield with warm water. Then you use the next finer paste and repeat
the process. Etc, etc, until you've used the 4th paste that is kind of like
car wax.
Frankly, the scratches were gone after the first application of paste - I started
at #2 based on the instructions and the "observed severity" of the scratch
depth.
So, the bottom line is, if you've got scuffs or mild scratches in your Plexiglass
buy this repair kit. It works!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pedal plane kits |
Harry-
He is in every Sport Aviation magazine. _http://www.pedalplanekits.com_
(http://www.pedalplanekits.com)
-GV
In a message dated 11/20/2008 10:02:49 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
HCRV6(at)comcast.net writes:
Not to digress too far from the recent ELT thread but does anyone have the
contact information for the guy who displays the child pedal planes at Air
Venture. I'm particularly interested in the hardware and plans sets that I
understand he sells.
**************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks,
and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com
%26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi:
Question, recently i notice the right fuel gauge needle, goes crazy
it moves up and down, I cannot remember if ever stop...since last
flight..
What can be the cause of this? it became apparent the day I filled
the tanks. as soon as I turn the master switch on, starts...up and down...
Your suggestions appreciated
Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi:
Help... Need to know the number for the small gasket, that goes
on the center of the fuel tank cover plate.where the sensor wire?
I am talking about the small one in center, if the tank..\I canot find it on
the Van's catalog or any other place..
thanks for the info
robert
________________________________________________________________________________
I have one that does that when the gauge has a bad ground.
Jim
**************Check out smokin=99 hot deals on laptops, desktops and m
ore from
Dell. Shop Deals
ttp://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com> |
tHANKS i WILL CHECK AGAIN, i DID ALREADY AND EVERYTHING LOOKED ok
ROBERT
--- On Fri, 11/21/08, JFLEISC(at)aol.com wrote:
> From: JFLEISC(at)aol.com <JFLEISC(at)aol.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel gauge
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, November 21, 2008, 4:43 PM
> I have one that does that when the gauge has a bad ground.
>
> Jim
> **************Check out smokin hot deals on laptops,
> desktops and more from
> Dell. Shop Deals
> ttp://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Pedal plane kits |
Thanks GV, I should pay closer attention.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 527 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 9:27:31 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pedal plane kits
Harry-
He is in every Sport Aviation magazine. http://www.pedalplanekits.com
-GV
In a message dated 11/20/2008 10:02:49 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, HCRV6(at)comcast.net
writes:
Not to digress too far from the recent ELT thread but does anyone have the contact
information for the guy who displays the child pedal planes at Air Venture.
I'm particularly interested in the hardware and plans sets that I understand
he sells.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its sort
of my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by popping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Walk Material |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Dear List,
It's time to think about wing walk material. I could go with the
standard Vans RV-10 material or the (near) clear wing walk material
offered by ACS. Are there any other (good) options available that are
visually appealing and functional or does anyone have a preference on
one material over another?
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 465 Hours
RV-10 30 hours
RV-8A Next
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burnham" <daverv6a(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Walk Material |
Robin, I used Ray Allen's wing walk material - very happy with it.
http://www.rayallencompany.com/index.html
Dave Burnham
N64FN
On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 10:34 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Dear List,
> It's time to think about wing walk material. I could go with the
> standard Vans RV-10 material or the (near) clear wing walk material
> offered by ACS. Are there any other (good) options available that are
> visually appealing and functional or does anyone have a preference on
> one material over another?
>
> Thanks,
> Robin
>
> RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 465 Hours
> RV-10 30 hours
> RV-8A Next
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Hooper" <krhooper(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Walk Material |
I am getting ready to order the wing walk material from
flyboyaccessories.com. From the description it seems to be a better option.
Randy Hooper
On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 11:54 AM, David Burnham wrote:
> Robin, I used Ray Allen's wing walk material - very happy with it.
>
> http://www.rayallencompany.com/index.html
>
> Dave Burnham
> N64FN
>
> On Sat, Nov 22, 2008 at 10:34 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
>>
>> Dear List,
>> It's time to think about wing walk material. I could go with the
>> standard Vans RV-10 material or the (near) clear wing walk material
>> offered by ACS. Are there any other (good) options available that are
>> visually appealing and functional or does anyone have a preference on
>> one material over another?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Robin
>>
>> RV-4 Sold
>> RV-6A 465 Hours
>> RV-10 30 hours
>> RV-8A Next
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
>
--
Randy Hooper
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
Listers,
I am clearing out many of the tools I used in building my RV-6A. Most
were purchased from Avery as a starting kit. All the tools have been
used but are in mint condition except for the cutting tools which wear
with use. I calculate that the new cost of the tools would be about $1K.
I will sell the lot for half that ($.5K)
Please contact me off line.
THE LIST
Flaring tool - 1/8" - 3/4" O.D.(Parker 37 deg.)
Tubing Bender - 1/8, 3/16, 1/4 (Eastman)
Tubing Bender - 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 (General)
Edge rolling tool
Champion Gapping tool
Gap Ajusting tool
Back Rivet plate
Hand Riveting and Dimpling (C-frame)
Fluting Plier
Seamer
Deburring tool, double edge
Deburring tool, swivel
Speed Deburring & Countersink tool
Deburring cutter 100 deg
Machine countersink microstop
Counter sink Heads (6)
Side Clamp Clecos (14)
Clecos 1/8: (40)
Clecos 3/32: (55)
Clecos 3/16 : (9)
Angle drill
Angle drill bits (23) misc. size from #40 - 1/4" misc lengths
Nutplate drill jig #6
Nutplate drill jig #8
Nutplate drill jig #10
Richard Dudley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Walk Material |
If you haven't painted yet, here is an option that has worked quite nicely
on my RV:
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5276_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5276)
Still going strong after 500 hours...
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips, RV-6A "Mojo"
_http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/_
(http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Walk Material |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Mark,
I remember your post from years ago and thought it was one
of the nicest applications and forethought (AKA petunia smelling brain
fart). Thanks for bringing it to my attention again.
Robin
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Walk Material
If you haven't painted yet, here is an option that has worked quite
nicely on my RV:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=527
6
Still going strong after 500 hours...
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips, RV-6A "Mojo"
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Tru Trak safety issue (VAF thread) |
VAF has a safety-related thread regarding an elevator jam caused by a
Tru Trak servo. The thread is at
<http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=36393>.
Frightening.
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Walk Material |
Go to your local Skate Board store and buy some
Skate board grip covering.
It sticks on and looks great.
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing Walk Material
Dear List,
>> It's time to think about wing walk material. I could go with the
>> standard Vans RV-10 material or the (near) clear wing walk material
>> offered by ACS. Are there any other (good) options available that are
>> visually appealing and functional or does anyone have a preference on
>> one material over another?
>>
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RALPH HOOVER" <hooverra(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Walk Material |
Robin,
We used the ACS material on our 7A, yet to be painted. After looking
at the Ray Allen Material on a hanger mates Zenith I think we will switch
when we paint.
Ralph & Laura Hoover
N527LR 17 hours (having a ball)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 11:35 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Walk Material
Dear List,
It's time to think about wing walk material. I could go with the
standard Vans RV-10 material or the (near) clear wing walk material
offered by ACS. Are there any other (good) options available that are
visually appealing and functional or does anyone have a preference on
one material over another?
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 465 Hours
RV-10 30 hours
RV-8A Next
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Value of the List... |
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30
worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a
subscription to some lame magazine or even just a single dinner out. Isn't the
List worth at least that much to you?
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support the
Lists?
Contribution Page:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Again, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far
during this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively
through YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | K Klewin <okcrv6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV Christmas Ideas... |
Since a few of you have asked.....
-
Here is a link to our christmas specials...
-
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=36537
-
Regards,
-
Kurt
www.bisonmountainbags.com=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 11/22/08 |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Robin,
I carry a nice product in my store. Cheap too. Also works well on
floorboards. Not gritty and doesn't scuff and hold mud like the
sandpapery types. Easy to wash. Won't tear up your microfiber cloths.
Lots of other RV goodies and supplies too.
Vince Frazier
Flyboy Accessories
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
www.flyboyaccessories.com
SNIP<<<<<<<<<<<
Subject: RV-List: Wing Walk Material
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Dear List,
It's time to think about wing walk material. I could go with the
standard Vans RV-10 material or the (near) clear wing walk material
offered by ACS. Are there any other (good) options available that are
visually appealing and functional or does anyone have a preference on
one material over another?
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 465 Hours
RV-10 30 hours
RV-8A Next>>>>>>>>>>>>>SNIP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill.mail(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Microair 760 Comm |
Hey all...
I am looking for a Microair 760 Comm...
Please contact me off-list...
-Bill
http://www.vondane.com/contact/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | AFP Fuel Injection |
You folks that have Airflow Performance Fuel Injection with purge valve....
What is the easiest way to start the engine? I have been using the official
AFP procedure but you have to juggle the mixture and throttle after the
engine catches (and before it quits again)!! Nothing against Don's
procedure, I just wondered if there might be a way to get a good start with
less monkey motion?! Any thoughts?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
First flight yesterday (.5 hours)!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Riffel" <riffeljl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? |
I'd like to be able to connect my handheld to my external com1 antenna in an
emergency. I know that the Icom Ant-SB does that - but it's about $75.
Anyone built one (or know how to build one)?
I'm GUESSING that it's just a simple shielded box with 3 BNCs (IN from Com1,
OUT to Antenna and IN from handheld). When the handheld is plugged in, the
BNC from Com1 would be disconnected (so the handheld doesn't xmit INTO
Com1).
Ideas anybody?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Riffel" <riffeljl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? |
I'd like to be able to connect my handheld to my external com1 antenna in an
emergency. I know that the Icom Ant-SB does that - but it's about $75.
Anyone built one (or know how to build one)?
I'm GUESSING that it's just a simple shielded box with 3 BNCs (IN from Com1,
OUT to Antenna and IN from handheld). When the handheld is plugged in, the
BNC from Com1 would be disconnected (so the handheld doesn't xmit INTO
Com1).
Ideas anybody?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? |
The input from the handheld is just a 3.5mm phone plug. When plugged
in, it breaks the internal connection to comm1 and connects the handheld
to the antenna.
Very simple to build, but make sure you get a HIGH quality female phone
plug as you are counting on the internal switched contact to make the
connection for comm1.
Dick Tasker
J Riffel wrote:
> I'd like to be able to connect my handheld to my external com1 antenna
> in an emergency. I know that the Icom Ant-SB does that - but it's
> about $75. Anyone built one (or know how to build one)?
>
> I'm GUESSING that it's just a simple shielded box with 3 BNCs (IN from
> Com1, OUT to Antenna and IN from handheld). When the handheld is
> plugged in, the BNC from Com1 would be disconnected (so the handheld
> doesn't xmit INTO Com1).
>
> Ideas anybody?
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AFP Fuel Injection |
Cold/hot start basicaly the same, 3~5 seconds prime, throttle at fast idle, mixture
full rich. For hot, the same thing except keep the purge valve at engine
cut off until it starts and then open.
I can only think of one time in the last 5 years this did not work and that was
due to not priming enough.
Your results may vary.
Scott
RV-8a
----- Original Message ----
From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Monday, November 24, 2008 8:46:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: AFP Fuel Injection
You folks that have Airflow Performance Fuel Injection with purge valve....
What is the easiest way to start the engine? I have been using the official
AFP procedure but you have to juggle the mixture and throttle after the
engine catches (and before it quits again)!! Nothing against Don's
procedure, I just wondered if there might be a way to get a good start with
less monkey motion?! Any thoughts?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
First flight yesterday (.5 hours)!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ARTEX 406 ELT in a 7A |
Bob,
As my RV-7A is not complete, I do not have images of an installation. I
thought I would offer some food for thought, however:
A ground plane is pretty much what it sounds like...a flat planar surface
which effectively doubles the effective length of an antenna. On the side-by-
side Van's designs, the fuselage behind the passenger / baggage is pretty flat
and open. Unless you consider mounting the antenna to the top of a wing (I
wouldn't due to problems George has already mentioned), there's not a better
ground plane on the aircraft.
It's also been noted (elsewhere) that there is an area of negative flow behind
the canopy meaning that the air is quite turbulent and actually flowing
forward. Although I don't have a link, I've seen images where RV builders
have applied yarn tufts to their fuselage which demonstrates this.
Taking those two points into consideration leads me to believe that
installation of a 406Mhz ELT antenna on the top, centerline of the fuselage a
short distance behind the passenger compartment would result in excellent
transmission characteristics and essentially zero speed impact.
Whle I have no radiation graphs to support my theory, that's where I'll be
mounting mine.
Mike Cencula
RV-7A (fuselage)
www.our7a.com
On Wednesday November 19 2008 08:56:51 pm bcollinsmn wrote:
>
> So, umm, back to the original question. Does anyone have any images of
> their antenna installation for this configuration. Just curious. Thanks.
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> RV-7A (#&^ fiberglass!)
> http://rvbuildershotline.com
> Day job:
> http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215192#215192
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AFP Fuel Injection |
| From: | Danny <vft(at)aol.com> |
For cold starts:
Purge valve open (run position)
Throttle/Mixture full
Boost pump until pressure rises then off
Throttle to just above idle (looking for around 1000 rpm setting)
Mags on and crank
For hot starts:
Purge valve closed
Throttle/Mixture full
Boost pump on (I let it run while I get everything ready to go)
Throttle to just above idle
Mag on and crank
Purge valve open when the engine fires
Danny Melnik
F1 N14ZM
Rocket Factory
Melbourne, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Mon, 24 Nov 2008 11:46 pm
Subject: RV-List: AFP Fuel Injection
You folks that have Airflow Performance Fuel Injection with purge valve....
What is the easiest way to start the engine? I have been using the official
AFP procedure but you have to juggle the mixture and throttle after the
engine catches (and before it quits again)!! Nothing against Don's
procedure, I just wondered if there might be a way to get a good start with
less monkey motion?! Any thoughts?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
First flight yesterday (.5 hours)!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | AFP Fuel Injection |
Dean=2C
Its good to see that you are finally flying that thing.
On the AFP system I use the same procedure for both hot and cold=2C and hav
e found that it works well for me.
1st: Throttle to idle=2C mixture to rich=2C and the bypass in the cutoff po
sition (normally full out)
2nd: Boost pump on until flow (on fuel flow meter) stablizes (around 2.5 GP
H).
3rd: Prime=2C by pushing in the bypass valve=2C for 5-10 seconds.
4th: Pull bypass to cutoff and place throttle to full idle then forward app
rox. 1/4 to 3/8 inch.
5th: put hand on the by-pass knob=2C make sure magneto(s) are on=2C and hit
starter.
6th: When engine catches=2C push bypass to full open and adjust throttle to
1000 RPM. if engine doesn't catch within a couple of rotations=2C stop tr
ying to start and re-prime before attempting to start again.
The only time I move the mixture is to lean or richen to mixture. Other th
an that it stays in the full rich position.
For shutdown I set the throttle to 1000 RPM=2C let stablize for a couple of
seconds and then pull the bypass to cutoff. AS the engine dies I push the
throttle to full open and leave it there. That helps clear the intake are
a of any gas fumes and helps to reduce the chance of backfire during the ne
xt starting. Granted=2C if you aren't going to start the engine for a day
or so=2C the chances aren't great of a backfire=2C but the positive habit t
ransfer oif doing the same way every time reduces the odds of screw-up.
Enjoy the flying.
PS: We are going to be in Orlando Jan 10-17. Maybe we can get together.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
Several RVs to credit
> Date: Mon=2C 24 Nov 2008 23:46:12 -0500> From: dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.n
et> Subject: RV-List: AFP Fuel Injection> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com> > -->
RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" > > You folks that have Airflow Performance Fuel Injection with purge valv
e....> What is the easiest way to start the engine? I have been using the o
fficial> AFP procedure but you have to juggle the mixture and throttle afte
r the> engine catches (and before it quits again)!! Nothing against Don's>
procedure=2C I just wondered if there might be a way to get a good start wi
th> less monkey motion?! Any thoughts?> > Dean Psiropoulos> RV-6A N197DM> F
======================
_________________________________________________________________
Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail.
http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_acce
ss_112008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 200 HP IFR RV-4 For Sale |
Selling due to upcoming military deployment...read on!=0A=0A1989 Van=A2s RV
-4=0ALycoming IO-360 200HP=0A10:1 Pistons=0AChromed Cylinders=0A200 HP Cam
=0A1000 TTAF=0A1000 SMOH=0AAnnual due 06/09=0AIFR due 05/10=0A=0AGood compr
essions, regularly flown=0A=0AProp:=0AClaus Savier made wood/fiberglass spe
ed prop, Fixed Pitch=0AOverhauled by Claus 2006=0A=0APaint:=0AImron sunburs
t style, Red, Orange, Yellow Condition is 7-8, but there have been added p
arts and replacements that require repainting. New rudder, gear leg fairin
gs, canopy fairing repair, cowl modification, etc.=0A=0AAvionics:=0AGarmin
SL30 NAV/COMM w/GS=0AKing KY197 Comm=0AGarmin GTX 327 Transponder=0APS Engi
neering PM8000 Intercom with Marker Beacon=0AGarmin MD200-306 VOR/LOC/GS=0A
Trio Avionics EZPilot=0AEDO Vacuum Gyros=0ARocky Mountain MicroEncoder whic
h provides:=0A Airspeed=0A Altimeter=0A OAT=0A Vertical Speed I
ndicator=0A Pressure Altitude/Density Altitude=0A =0AElectronics Inte
rnational UBG-16 engine monitor which provides:=0A CHT all cylinders=0A
EGT all cylinders=0A Volts=0A Amps=0A Oil Temp=0A Oil Pressu
re=0A Data Recording=0AElectronics International FP-5L Fuel Flow/Totaliz
er=0AG-Meter=0AElectric Flaps=0ABell Tailwheel=0AFiberglass gear fairings
=0AWing light (left side)=0AWingtip Position/Strobe=0ATail Strobe=0APanel L
ighting (Electroluminescent instrument lights)=0AHeater=0ARear seat control
stick (removable)=0ADJM Manufacturing Throttle Quadrant=0AManual Trim=0A
=0A=0ANow, the squaks..I=A2ve been doing a lot of modifications over the la
st 24 months. =0AA new rudder was built due to trailing edge cracks on old
Van=A2s design. New rudder is new design with thicker skin. Needs paint.
=0A=0ASkybolt fasteners put on aft edge of top cowl to replace hinge. Adju
stment and minor fiberglass work needed. Cowl needs paint in this area.=0A
=0ARebuilt front canopy fairing due to air leaking in cockpit Needs paint
and minor finishing.=0A=0AInstalled rear seat airvent in fuselage. Needs p
aint in this area=0A=0AInstalled fiberglass gear leg fairings. Needs pain
t and minor finish work.=0A=0AGyros need overhaul from aerobatics. IFR not
possible for obvious reasons until overhauled. Pitot static is fine and r
ecently certified.=0A=0AMy plan was to finish all these modifications and s
trip and repaint the airplane. The existing paint is fine, but due to all
of the modifications, if a new paint scheme is desired, it would be a good
time to do it, instead of painting all the areas that need assistance.=0A
=0A=0AThe airplane flies wonderful. Is very fast (170 kt cruise all day lo
ng) Someone with desire to customize the cosmetics will have a fantastic a
irplane. Selling due to military deployment and do not want to store, insu
re, maintain, etc while deployed.=0A=0AI paid $55k for this airplane before
the IFR panel, and other mods totalling approximately $20K. Will sell a $
75k RV-4 for $55k since there are some minor cosmetic work and paint needed
.=0A=0AAdditional pics at www.mykitlog.com/pbesing Will post more pics ver
y soon.=0A=0APaul Besing=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? |
Bob Nucholls of the Aeroelectric List shows how to make one on his web site. I
just looked there, but could not find it. I have seen it on there in the past.
You might want to ask this question on the Aeroelectric List (on Matronics).
Bob refers to this device as a "Com Tap".
Charlie Kuss
--- On Tue, 11/25/08, J Riffel wrote:
> From: J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?
> To: "rv-list"
> Date: Tuesday, November 25, 2008, 12:05 AM
> I'd like to be able to connect my handheld to my
> external com1 antenna in an
> emergency. I know that the Icom Ant-SB does that - but
> it's about $75.
> Anyone built one (or know how to build one)?
>
> I'm GUESSING that it's just a simple shielded box
> with 3 BNCs (IN from Com1,
> OUT to Antenna and IN from handheld). When the handheld is
> plugged in, the
> BNC from Com1 would be disconnected (so the handheld
> doesn't xmit INTO
> Com1).
>
> Ideas anybody?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? |
I believe Bob yanked it from his site because he felt the Icom unit did the job
adequately for the money. I think there was also something about his he didn't
like.
Michael Sausen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Kuss
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?
Bob Nucholls of the Aeroelectric List shows how to make one on his web site. I
just looked there, but could not find it. I have seen it on there in the past.
You might want to ask this question on the Aeroelectric List (on Matronics).
Bob refers to this device as a "Com Tap".
Charlie Kuss
--- On Tue, 11/25/08, J Riffel wrote:
> From: J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?
> To: "rv-list"
> Date: Tuesday, November 25, 2008, 12:05 AM
> I'd like to be able to connect my handheld to my
> external com1 antenna in an
> emergency. I know that the Icom Ant-SB does that - but
> it's about $75.
> Anyone built one (or know how to build one)?
>
> I'm GUESSING that it's just a simple shielded box
> with 3 BNCs (IN from Com1,
> OUT to Antenna and IN from handheld). When the handheld is
> plugged in, the
> BNC from Com1 would be disconnected (so the handheld
> doesn't xmit INTO
> Com1).
>
> Ideas anybody?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? |
Bob yanked it because he was not impressed with the quality of the
majority of mini-phone jacks in the marketplace now to which I can
attest as well. I am an electrical engineer and have lots of "stuff"
that I have collected over the years (40 by now - years that is).
Comparing the new jacks with some I purchased many years ago there is a
world of difference. I suspect that you may be able to get good parts
now if you search, but the readily available ones are not very good.
The contacts are not very "springy" and quite easily take a "set".
Since you are counting on the normally closed contacts to connect your
primary radio to your antenna and these are the contacts that are moved
by the plug when inserted, it is not a great design.
I would hope (but I do not know) that ICOM has found a very robust
mini-jack to minimize (or hopefully eliminate) this issue.
You could also accomplish the same thing with a small switch to connect
the antenna to either comm1 or to your handheld radio and enclose it in
a box with three BNC connectors (antenna, comm1, handheld) but it would
not be "automatic".
Dick Tasker
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> I believe Bob yanked it from his site because he felt the Icom unit did the job
adequately for the money. I think there was also something about his he didn't
like.
>
> Michael Sausen
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Kuss
> Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 2:20 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?
>
>
> Bob Nucholls of the Aeroelectric List shows how to make one on his web site.
I just looked there, but could not find it. I have seen it on there in the past.
You might want to ask this question on the Aeroelectric List (on Matronics).
Bob refers to this device as a "Com Tap".
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> --- On Tue, 11/25/08, J Riffel wrote:
>
>
>> From: J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?
>> To: "rv-list"
>> Date: Tuesday, November 25, 2008, 12:05 AM
>> I'd like to be able to connect my handheld to my
>> external com1 antenna in an
>> emergency. I know that the Icom Ant-SB does that - but
>> it's about $75.
>> Anyone built one (or know how to build one)?
>>
>> I'm GUESSING that it's just a simple shielded box
>> with 3 BNCs (IN from Com1,
>> OUT to Antenna and IN from handheld). When the handheld is
>> plugged in, the
>> BNC from Com1 would be disconnected (so the handheld
>> doesn't xmit INTO
>> Com1).
>>
>> Ideas anybody?
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au> |
| Subject: | Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? |
Hi All,
A simple solution would be to have a male/female inline connector somewhere accessible
in the cockpit. Radio fails, disconnect the cable and plug it into you
handheld.
Cheers
John Morrissey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Tasker
Sent: Wednesday, 26 November 2008 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?
Bob yanked it because he was not impressed with the quality of the
majority of mini-phone jacks in the marketplace now to which I can
attest as well. I am an electrical engineer and have lots of "stuff"
that I have collected over the years (40 by now - years that is).
Comparing the new jacks with some I purchased many years ago there is a
world of difference. I suspect that you may be able to get good parts
now if you search, but the readily available ones are not very good.
The contacts are not very "springy" and quite easily take a "set".
Since you are counting on the normally closed contacts to connect your
primary radio to your antenna and these are the contacts that are moved
by the plug when inserted, it is not a great design.
I would hope (but I do not know) that ICOM has found a very robust
mini-jack to minimize (or hopefully eliminate) this issue.
You could also accomplish the same thing with a small switch to connect
the antenna to either comm1 or to your handheld radio and enclose it in
a box with three BNC connectors (antenna, comm1, handheld) but it would
not be "automatic".
Dick Tasker
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> I believe Bob yanked it from his site because he felt the Icom unit did the job
adequately for the money. I think there was also something about his he didn't
like.
>
> Michael Sausen
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Kuss
> Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 2:20 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?
>
>
> Bob Nucholls of the Aeroelectric List shows how to make one on his web site.
I just looked there, but could not find it. I have seen it on there in the past.
You might want to ask this question on the Aeroelectric List (on Matronics).
Bob refers to this device as a "Com Tap".
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> --- On Tue, 11/25/08, J Riffel wrote:
>
>
>> From: J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?
>> To: "rv-list"
>> Date: Tuesday, November 25, 2008, 12:05 AM
>> I'd like to be able to connect my handheld to my
>> external com1 antenna in an
>> emergency. I know that the Icom Ant-SB does that - but
>> it's about $75.
>> Anyone built one (or know how to build one)?
>>
>> I'm GUESSING that it's just a simple shielded box
>> with 3 BNCs (IN from Com1,
>> OUT to Antenna and IN from handheld). When the handheld is
>> plugged in, the
>> BNC from Com1 would be disconnected (so the handheld
>> doesn't xmit INTO
>> Com1).
>>
>> Ideas anybody?
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few More Days... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few more days left in this year's List Fund Raiser. There are
some great gifts available when you make a qualifying Contribution and there's
plenty still available. Don't forget that its *your* Contribution that keeps
the computers running, the electricity turned on, and the computer room AC cooling!
If you look forward to reading your List email each day, won't you please take
a minute right now to make your personal Contribution?
Credit Card or Paypal:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Personal Check:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? |
This is how I have mine set up, takes a little fiddling, but its solid,
just reach under panel, twist , pull off and put on my handheldt. I have
considered bringing it out thru the panel, but havent do so. I have only
had to use my handheld once, and that was with my cherokee 140 a while
back. Charles H
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV series belly/wing tank/cargo pod |
Gentleman and Ladies:
I have developed the mold and plug for a fiberglass removable belly/wing
tank or cargo pod. It is shaped like a WWII P-38 wing tank with a laminar flow
cross section and is 52" long by 12" in diameter and holds 14 gals and is
fabricated of either fiberglass or carbon fiber. I am soliciting interest to see
where I go from here with production plans. This tank/pod with fit on
practicall any experimental aircraft high or low wing.
Please let me know your interest level.
Regards,
Scott Morrow
**************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW
AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Hood" <hoodcom(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? |
I make no claims of expertise on this subject but, I came across this
site and product and it would seem to overcome the problem of sending
the signal from one comm unit to the other. Anyone care to comment?
http://www.datapro.net/products/data-switch-manual-bnc.html
bill hood rv-7 997Z
hoodcom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how? |
This switch is for low power data, not for transmitting.
Simple antenna switches are available. Some examples:
http://www.universal-radio.com/CATALOG/switch/1864.html
http://www.hamstick.com/cs201.htm
Another way to go is to have a separate antenna for your backup radio. That
way if you have an antenna problem you don't lose both radios. A wingtip
antenna or a homebrew wire antennas in the cowl would work fine in this
backup role.
I flew my 8A for three years with a homebrew wingtip antenna, then added a
belly bent whip antenna when I took the plane down for painting. The belly
antenna works better, but I got along just fine with the wingtip one as
well. The wing tip one is now wired to "COMM 2".
Carl Froehlich
RV8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hood
Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2008 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Antenna Switchbox plans/know-how?Antenna Switchbox
plans/know-how?
I make no claims of expertise on this subject but, I came across this site
and product and it would seem to overcome the problem of sending the signal
from one comm unit to the other. Anyone care to comment?
http://www.datapro.net/products/data-switch-manual-bnc.html
bill hood rv-7 997Z
hoodcom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just 3 Days Left - Please Make Your List Contribution Today! |
There are only three days left until the end of this year's List Fund Raiser.
Please take a minute to show your support as so many others have this year and
make sure YOUR name is on the forthcoming List of Contributors 2008!
Its quick and easy using the secure web site with a credit card or PayPal:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by sending your personal check to:
Matronics Lists c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
(Please write your email address on the check!)
Thank you in advance for your support of these List services!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | flat tire vs. wheel fairing |
I don't have the wheel fairings on my 6A yet. I just dragged the
fuselage out of the garage around back to make room to clean the wings
for painting. It must of picked up a thorn (arizona is full of
needle-like things) because the right main tire now seems to have a leak.
It occurs to me that if the wheel fairing were installed, the tires
stick out a 1/2" or 1" below the fairing. An even partially flat tire
would quickly bring the weight of the plane down on the wheel fairing.
I'm guessing the fairing would be pretty well destroyed in that event.
Can any one comment on this? Should I cut the fairings back further?
Seems like a pretty stiff penalty for letting a tire go flat.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICHARD MILLER <rickpegser(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flat tire vs. wheel fairing |
landing with a flat will do a hell of a lot more damage then just the fairing.
can you say ground loop. while tires with leaks go dead flat in the hanger they
don,t go dead flat in the air since there is no compression on the tire in flight.
so normally you end up with a low pressure tire at the end of the flight.and
can control it.
rick
--- On Fri, 11/28/08, tom sargent wrote:
> From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: RV-List: flat tire vs. wheel fairing
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, November 28, 2008, 12:28 PM
>
>
> I don't have the wheel fairings on my 6A yet. I just
> dragged the fuselage out of the garage around back to make
> room to clean the wings for painting. It must of picked up
> a thorn (arizona is full of needle-like things) because the
> right main tire now seems to have a leak.
>
> It occurs to me that if the wheel fairing were installed,
> the tires stick out a 1/2" or 1" below the
> fairing. An even partially flat tire would quickly bring
> the weight of the plane down on the wheel fairing. I'm
> guessing the fairing would be pretty well destroyed in that
> event. Can any one comment on this? Should I cut the
> fairings back further?
>
> Seems like a pretty stiff penalty for letting a tire go
> flat.
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | flat tire vs. wheel fairing |
Hey Tom=2C
>From experience=2C I can tell you that probably the only thing that would h
appen if you tire went flat in the hanger is that the 4 screw holes that at
tach the front and rear halfs to the fair bracket would become elongated=2C
the rest fo the fairing would be fine. When it happened to me=2C only the
rear 2 holes got damaged=2C no biggy.
Paul Rice RV8> Date: Fri=2C 28 Nov 2008 14:13:18 -0800> From: rickpegser@ya
hoo.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: flat tire vs. wheel fairing> To: rv-list@mat
oo.com>> > landing with a flat will do a hell of a lot more damage then jus
t the fairing. can you say ground loop. while tires with leaks go dead flat
in the hanger they don=2Ct go dead flat in the air since there is no compr
ession on the tire in flight. so normally you end up with a low pressure ti
re at the end of the flight.and can control it.> > rick> > > --- On Fri=2C
11/28/08=2C tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net> wrote:> > > From: tom sargent
> > Subject: RV-List: flat tire vs. wheel fairing> >
> > I don't have the wheel fairings on my 6A yet. I just> > dragged the fu
selage out of the garage around back to make> > room to clean the wings for
painting. It must of picked up> > a thorn (arizona is full of needle-like
things) because the> > right main tire now seems to have a leak.> > > > It
occurs to me that if the wheel fairing were installed=2C> > the tires stick
out a 1/2" or 1" below the> > fairing. An even partially flat tire would q
uickly bring> > the weight of the plane down on the wheel fairing. I'm> > g
uessing the fairing would be pretty well destroyed in that> > event. Can an
y one comment on this? Should I cut the> > fairings back further?> > > > Se
ems like a pretty stiff penalty for letting a tire go> > flat.> > --> > Tom
======================> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flat tire vs. wheel fairing |
RICHARD MILLER wrote:
>
> landing with a flat will do a hell of a lot more damage then just the
> fairing. can you say ground loop. while tires with leaks go dead flat
> in the hanger they don,t go dead flat in the air since there is no
> compression on the tire in flight. so normally you end up with a low
> pressure tire at the end of the flight.and can control it.
>
> rick
In our local group we have seen two instances of RV-6A nose wheel tires
either going flat enroute or immediately on touchdown, hard to know
which. In both cases the tires could be pumped up enough to taxi the
plane back to the hangar.
The RV nose gear tubes are strange animals and seem to go flat with no
warning and sometimes for hard to determine reasons. Nose rollers need
to be sure they carry a spare tube in the plane because the Lamb tube is
hard to find.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Listers Have Been Saying |
Wow! Many of the members making a List Support Contribution this year have been
using the Comments field to leave a personal message about the Lists. Thank
you! I have included a number of them below. Please read over a few and see
if you perhaps can echo some of the same sentiments regarding the value of the
Lists to you...
There is only a couple more days left for this year's List Fund Raiser and we're
still way behind previous years. If you've been waiting until the last minute
to show your support, Now is the Time! Please make your Contribution and pick
up a great gift at the same time!
By Credit Card or Paypal:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or By Personal Check:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550-7227
Thank you in advance!!
Matt Dralle
Email List and Forums Administrator
Here is some of the great feedback members have been including along with their
personal Contributions this year...
Over the years, the info I have received from the RV-List has
saved me thousands of dollars, and dozens of hours of time by
helping me avoid bad purchases, pointing me at vendors with
low prices and excellent support, and providing solutions to
the typical head scratchers that you run into.
Kevin H
Valuable service. Best List(s) on the Internet!
George A
Please accept this token not as an indicator of what
this list has been worth to me this past year.
Lew G
Great information and entertainment.
Tim V
Thanks again for another great year of service. This
project would be beyond me if it were not for the list.
Moreover, the friendships I have found are worth their
weight in GOLD!
Robert B
Great support you provide to all the subscribers!
Freddie H
Read it every day.
PF B
Thanks for your excellent management of the Matronics
Lists! Your services are head and shoulders above the
rest.
James M
Without the "List", there would be no Kolb "community".
Bill T
Thanks, Matt, for a great service! I've been monitoring
and using the lists since 1999.
Richard D
Thanks for such a terrific site and for all the work and
effort you put into it.
John R
A great service year after year.
John D
..another year of fantastic service.
Jerry B
This list is a great resource.
Arden A
Great list.
James M
Lists were a great help while building HRII N561FS.
John S
Great resources for both the beginner and experienced.
George R
Good service.
Gary G
The List is an invaluable resource!
William C
AeroElectric list is a great source of info and learning!
Janice J
Thank you, Matt for being there for us making it all happen
on the List for so many years - Great JOB!
Sam S
Thank you for providing a great venue. You definitely hit
the nail on the head with your solicitation asking if
readers look forward to receiving the email digests. I
certainly do and when I move from a dreamer to a builder, I
expect the anticipation will only increase.
Joe S
Thanks for a Perfect working list.
Hans-Peter R
Great List
Bryan K
Such a great selection of valuable forums!
David G
Nice job!
Walt E
Good resource...
Robert P
Thank you for another great year!
Scott S
I could not do this without you...
Robert D
I believe I've been a list member for over a decade
now. Thanks for the service!
Tim L
Great List
Hendrik W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Moore, Robert" <Robert.Moore(at)axcelis.com> |
| Subject: | flat tire vs. wheel fairing |
Your message doesn't make sense.
"while tires with leaks go dead flat in the hanger they
don,t go dead flat in the air since there is no compression on the tire in flight."
If a tire is at, say, 32 psi isn't it at 32 psi whether it's jacked up in the air
or has the weight of the airplane pressing on it? And if it's going to leak
it will be leaking due to the pressure differential between inside the tire and
outside the tire (in this case 32psi).
It's been a long night and if I missed something obvious I will apologize now before
the flames start flying.
Bob
________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
From: RICHARD MILLER <rickpegser(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: flat tire vs. wheel fairing
landing with a flat will do a hell of a lot more damage then just the fairing.
can you say ground loop. while tires with leaks go dead flat in the hanger they
don,t go dead flat in the air since there is no compression on the tire in flight.
so normally you end up with a low pressure tire at the end of the flight.and
October 22, 2008 - November 29, 2008
RV-Archive.digest.vol-tt