RV-Archive.digest.vol-tu
November 29, 2008 - December 11, 2008
can control it.
rick
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "sheldon barrett" <sheldonb(at)frontiernet.net> |
Subject: | Re: flat tire vs. wheel fairing |
I had my nose wheel tire go flat on my 6A also... Normal landing... pulled
off the strip onto the taxi way... Flat!... Not sure just when it went
flat... but couldn't move the plane for the tire was wedged against the
pant... Local RV'ers came to the rescue.. Lucky I keep a spare tube
onboard... Back in the air within an hour... Only thing I could see on the
tube, was a very small pin hole... Not even sure if this was the cause.. for
the tire/tube was fine for a year before... I did enlarge the opening some
on the pant...
Sheldon (RV6A 500 hrs)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Friday, November 28, 2008 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: flat tire vs. wheel fairing
>
> RICHARD MILLER wrote:
>>
>> landing with a flat will do a hell of a lot more damage then just the
>> fairing. can you say ground loop. while tires with leaks go dead flat
>> in the hanger they don,t go dead flat in the air since there is no
>> compression on the tire in flight. so normally you end up with a low
>> pressure tire at the end of the flight.and can control it.
>>
>> rick
>
> In our local group we have seen two instances of RV-6A nose wheel tires
> either going flat enroute or immediately on touchdown, hard to know which.
> In both cases the tires could be pumped up enough to taxi the plane back
> to the hangar.
>
> The RV nose gear tubes are strange animals and seem to go flat with no
> warning and sometimes for hard to determine reasons. Nose rollers need to
> be sure they carry a spare tube in the plane because the Lamb tube is hard
> to find.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
> http://thervjournal.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: flat tire vs. wheel fairing |
Sheldon:
Did the tire going flat damage the wheel fairing?
sheldon barrett wrote:
>
> I had my nose wheel tire go flat on my 6A also... Normal landing...
> pulled off the strip onto the taxi way... Flat!... Not sure just when it
> went flat... but couldn't move the plane for the tire was wedged against
> the pant... Local RV'ers came to the rescue.. Lucky I keep a spare tube
> onboard... Back in the air within an hour... Only thing I could see on
> the tube, was a very small pin hole... Not even sure if this was the
> cause.. for the tire/tube was fine for a year before... I did enlarge
> the opening some on the pant...
> Sheldon (RV6A 500 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "sheldon barrett" <sheldonb(at)frontiernet.net> |
Subject: | Re: flat tire vs. wheel fairing |
Just a little... in that the flat tire rubbed against the wheel fairing
opening and gouged the edge some... otherwise, no other damage to the
pant... The gouges gave me a clue as to where to enlarge the wheel opening
in the pant...
Sheldon
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sargent" <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 7:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: flat tire vs. wheel fairing
>
> Sheldon:
> Did the tire going flat damage the wheel fairing?
>
> sheldon barrett wrote:
>>
>>
>> I had my nose wheel tire go flat on my 6A also... Normal landing...
>> pulled off the strip onto the taxi way... Flat!... Not sure just when it
>> went flat... but couldn't move the plane for the tire was wedged against
>> the pant... Local RV'ers came to the rescue.. Lucky I keep a spare tube
>> onboard... Back in the air within an hour... Only thing I could see on
>> the tube, was a very small pin hole... Not even sure if this was the
>> cause.. for the tire/tube was fine for a year before... I did enlarge the
>> opening some on the pant...
>> Sheldon (RV6A 500 hrs)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tomasz Korwel <tomasz(at)korwel.net> |
Subject: | Re: flat tire vs. wheel fairing |
RICHARD MILLER wrote:
>
> landing with a flat will do a hell of a lot more damage then just the fairing.
can you say ground loop. while tires with leaks go dead flat in the hanger they
don,t go dead flat in the air since there is no compression on the tire in
flight. so normally you end up with a low pressure tire at the end of the flight.and
can control it.
>
> rick
>
>
Actually they can go more than dead flat during flight.
Dead flat is when inside the tube air pressure is equal to outside
pressure. Which as we all know is different on the ground and up in the
air. So it the tire develops leak it will equalize inside pressure to
the one outside. If the plane sits on flat tires we also have change in
volume, so actually if you jack up plane with dead flat tires, pressure
inside such tube will be lower than outside due to increased volume. But
on the other hand if you fly up there it can go down to let's say 7-8
psi absolute, then you land and suddenly outside pressure is 15.2 psi
absolute - your tire now again has less pressure inside than it is
outside - in fact much less than when it was sitting flat in the hangar.
Tomasz
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Brake line tubing flaring |
I went down to the local hardware shop and bought their best flaring tool t
o do the aluminum brake lines, is this the correct tool? the ridges it leav
es in the tubing will not let the sleeve slide up, I had to take a file and
buffer to it to get them out , I tried again same results,- is there a b
etter tool?
and do the bending coils I saw work good?
-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Subject: | Brake line tubing flaring |
No, No, NO! Automotive flaring tools create 45 degree flares. Aviation
flareing tools create and aviation AN hardware require 37.5 degree
flares.
Bruce
<http://www.glasair.org/> www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dan(at)rdan.com
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 12:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brake line tubing flaring
I went down to the local hardware shop and bought their best flaring
tool to
do the aluminum brake lines, is this the correct tool? the ridges it
leaves
in the tubing will not let the sleeve slide up, I had to take a file and
buffer to it to get them out , I tried again same results, is there a
better tool?
and do the bending coils I saw work good?
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Last "Official" Day Of The List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
Its November 30th and that means three things:..
1) Today I am now officially 45 years old...
2) It marks that last "official" day of this year's List Fund Raiser!
3) Its the last day I will be bugging everyone for a whole year!
If you use the Lists and enjoy the content and the no-advertising, no-spam, and
no-censorship way in which they're run, please make a Contribution today to support
their continued operation and upkeep. Your $20 or $30 goes a long way
to keep the List bills paid.
I will be posting the List of Contributors next week so make sure your name is
on it!
Thank you to everyone that has made a Contribution so far this year! It is greatly
appreciated.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Brake line tubing flaring |
Throw away or cut off any flair you have made in aluminum tubing with the
"automobile" type flaring tube. They flair the tubing at a 45 deg angle.
All aircraft flairs are 37.5 degrees and all of your aircraft AN- fluid
fittings have 37 deg cones. Your flairs simply will not seal effectively
and will eventually fail.
Also never take a file to smooth out the ridges on aluminum tubing; you
create small stress points where the file nicks the tubing leading to stress
risers and eventually failure.
It does not take much abuse of aluminum tubing to cause it to fail - I had
an aircraft wheel fire due to a ruptured aluminum brake line which sprayed
brake fluid on the hot rotor disc which ignited. Fortunately, a quick
thinking nephew of mine found an extinguisher and put it out before serious
damage occurred.
Go out and buy or borrow a 37 deg aircraft flaring tube - if you belong to
an EAA chapter, there are probably several members who have one and will be
willing to loan it out.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
<http://www.andersonee.com/> http://www.andersonee.com
<http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm>
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
<http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html>
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dan(at)rdan.com
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 12:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brake line tubing flaring
I went down to the local hardware shop and bought their best flaring tool to
do the aluminum brake lines, is this the correct tool? the ridges it leaves
in the tubing will not let the sleeve slide up, I had to take a file and
buffer to it to get them out , I tried again same results, is there a
better tool?
and do the bending coils I saw work good?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Brake line tubing flaring |
Dan,
As others have stated, you need an aviation 37 degree flaring tool. I recommend
getting the Harbor Freight clone of the Imperial Eastman tubing bender for doing
you bends. I paid about $5 for mine (it was on sale at HF). See
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3755
Charlie Kuss
--- On Sun, 11/30/08, dan(at)rdan.com wrote:
> From: dan(at)rdan.com <dan(at)rdan.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Brake line tubing flaring
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, November 30, 2008, 12:48 AM
> I went down to the local hardware shop and bought their best
> flaring tool to do the aluminum brake lines, is this the
> correct tool? the ridges it leaves in the tubing will not
> let the sleeve slide up, I had to take a file and buffer to
> it to get them out , I tried again same results, is there
> a better tool?
> and do the bending coils I saw work good?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Brake line tubing flaring |
they should know better.. don't they ever read the instruction manual?
robert
--- On Sun, 11/30/08, Bruce Gray wrote:
> From: Bruce Gray <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake line tubing flaring
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, November 30, 2008, 1:23 AM
> No, No, NO! Automotive flaring tools create 45 degree
> flares. Aviation
> flareing tools create and aviation AN hardware require 37.5
> degree flares.
>
>
>
> Bruce
>
> <http://www.glasair.org/> www.Glasair.org
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> dan(at)rdan.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 12:49 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Brake line tubing flaring
>
>
>
> I went down to the local hardware shop and bought their
> best flaring tool to
> do the aluminum brake lines, is this the correct tool? the
> ridges it leaves
> in the tubing will not let the sleeve slide up, I had to
> take a file and
> buffer to it to get them out , I tried again same results,
> is there a
> better tool?
> and do the bending coils I saw work good?
>
>
>
>
>
> 3D==========3
> D========================
> =========
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
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>
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>
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>
> 3D==========3
> D========================
> =========
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
> 3D==========3
> D========================
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 3D==========3
> D========================
> =========
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dean Van Winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.org> |
Subject: | Re: Brake line tubing flaring |
Dan
I am almost 99% certain that what they sold you is an automotive 45
degree flaring tool, which is the wrong one. What you need is a 37
degree aircraft flaring tool. These are available from Avery, Spruce,
and most of the other aviation industry suppliers.
Dean Van Winkle
dvanwinkle(at)royell.org
Slooowbuild RV-9A
----- Original Message -----
From: dan(at)rdan.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 11:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brake line tubing flaring
I went down to the local hardware shop and bought their best
flaring tool to do the aluminum brake lines, is this the correct tool?
the ridges it leaves in the tubing will not let the sleeve slide up, I
had to take a file and buffer to it to get them out , I tried again same
results, is there a better tool?
and do the bending coils I saw work good?
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
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3D
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3D
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Brake line tubing flaring |
Thanks for all the replys
I'm just learning,--I now have the correct one on order,
This is why I'm a paid subscriber
Dan
--- On Sat, 11/29/08, Dean Van Winkle wrote:
From: Dean Van Winkle <dvanwinkle(at)royell.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake line tubing flaring
Date: Saturday, November 29, 2008, 10:45 PM
-Dan
-
I am almost 99% certain that what they sold you- is an automotive 45 degr
ee flaring tool, which is the wrong one.- What you need is a 37 degree ai
rcraft flaring tool. These are available from Avery, Spruce, and most of th
e other aviation industry suppliers.
-
Dean Van Winkle
dvanwinkle(at)royell.org---
Slooowbuild RV-9A
----- Original Message -----
From: dan(at)rdan.com
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 11:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brake line tubing flaring
I went down to the local hardware shop and bought their best flaring tool t
o do the aluminum brake lines, is this the correct tool? the ridges it leav
es in the tubing will not let the sleeve slide up, I had to take a file and
buffer to it to get them out , I tried again same results,- is there a b
etter tool?
and do the bending coils I saw work good?
-
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com
/contribution
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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3D
href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List"'>http://www.matron3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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3D
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Folks,
I have been doing my Pitot testing. I have built a manometer per the EAA chapter
1000 instructions and using the MicroEncoder chart and Kevin Horton's spreadsheet.
Here are some results:
At lower airspeed numbers, the manometer readings are exact. As the airspeed numbers
rise, the manometer readings deviate from the numbers on the spreadsheet
that I have (thanks Kevin Horton) to the low side - meaning the manometer reading
is lower than specified for a given airspeed indication...also meaning that
the airspeed would indicate an amount higher than actual for the correct manometer
reading. All are within the 3% or 5kts specified by FAR 23.1323.
Also, I am experiencing a very slow bleed-down - on the order of 4 to 7 minutes
to lose 100kts of airspeed at 0035'MSL. The only way I found this was walking
away to record my numbers in the computer after I was done - when I came back
it was lower.....did not see it between tests while I was doing it though.
I've looked through FAR 23.1323 - Airspeed indicating system. It does not have
anything in it regarding a leak tolerance...unlike the FAR 23.1325 - Static pressure
system, which allows 100fpm @ 1000' AGL indicated. What do folks use
for a leakdown tolerance? Or is this good enough to not matter?
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Should I re-pitch my prop? |
My RV9 has the recommended fix pitch prop on my 150 HP Lycoming 0-320
engine. It has plenty of power and climb but I would like a little more speed
than
the current 135-140 kt cruise.
I am considering having the prop re-pitched for more speed.
What do others think? Good idea or bad? How much more should I have the
pitch increased?
Thanks in advance for input.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
**************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW
AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Should I re-pitch my prop? |
From: | Michael W Stewart <mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com> |
we need more info.
current prop type, manufacturer size and pitch.
current WOT RPM at 8k'
Current cruise speed and RPM.
Current climb RPM, IAS and FPM altitude start
Mike
Knicholas2(at)aol.co
m
Sent by:
To
owner-rv-list-ser rv-list(at)matronics.com
ver(at)matronics.com
cc
Subj
ect
12/02/2008 02:38 RV-List: Should I re-pitch my pr
op?
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
My RV9 has the recommended fix pitch prop on my 150 HP Lycoming 0-320
engine. It has plenty of power and climb but I would like a little mor
e
speed than the current 135-140 kt cruise.
I am considering having the prop re-pitched for more speed.
What do others think? Good idea or bad? How much more should I have t
he
pitch increased?
Thanks in advance for input.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
Life should be ea&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002">Tr
y the
NEW AOL.com.
========================
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Should I re-pitch my prop? |
That all depends on what RPM you are showing in climb and cruise and how
much throttle you have available in cruise.
You are bounded by 2 extremes: the ultimate climb prop, and the ultimate
cruise prop.
The ultimate climb prop will achieve full rated engine RPM in climb (at full
throttle) but you will have to throttle back significantly in cruise to
avoid exceeding redline.
The ultimate cruise prop will achieve full rated engine RPM in level flight
and full throttle but your climbout will be at less than full RPM
(therefore, less than max power). You could actually go beyond cruise prop
and have a 'descent prop' where you can actually descend slightly at full
power and not exceed redline RPM. That will decrease your max cruise speed
somewhat (and really hurt climb rate) but at least full throttle cruise will
be at a more comfortable economy cruise RPM.
Where you fall in that range is a matter of personal preference. I actually
have 'descent prop' and really like it, but my turbo allows me to make up
for what would otherwise be poor climb performance.
For the specifics of how much pitch change will take you from one type of
prop to the next, you need to talk to the maker of the prop and your
re-pitching shop.
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6
On Tue, Dec 2, 2008 at 11:38 AM, wrote:
>
>
> My RV9 has the recommended fix pitch prop on my 150 HP Lycoming 0-320
> engine. It has plenty of power and climb but I would like a little more
> speed than the current 135-140 kt cruise.
>
> I am considering having the prop re-pitched for more speed.
> What do others think? Good idea or bad? How much more should I have the
> pitch increased?
>
> Thanks in advance for input.
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A
> Auburn, WA
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Life should be ea&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002">Try the
> NEW AOL.com.
>
> *
>
>
-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack Hilditch" <wmjack1(at)t3cs.net> |
Subject: | Should I re-pitch my prop? |
If memory serves me right, didn't Van's recommend against re-pitching metal
props taken from spam-cans? I poked around a bit and found the following on
Van's site.
"The Sensenich metal propellers we sell were developed specifically for the RV
series and are the ONLY fixed pitch metal propellers approved by Van's Aircraft
Inc. for use on RV aircraft. "
"Propellers from production aircraft are not suitable, and unfortunate
experience has shown that modified production propellers can fail without
warning with deadly consequences."
Full article can be found at:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1228254533-26-123
<http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1228254533-26-123&browse
props&product=sen-prop> &browse=props&product=sen-prop
Jack Hilditch
RV-9A ( R ) project
Manchester, CT
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Leonard
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Should I re-pitch my prop?
That all depends on what RPM you are showing in climb and cruise and how much
throttle you have available in cruise.
You are bounded by 2 extremes: the ultimate climb prop, and the ultimate cruise
prop.
The ultimate climb prop will achieve full rated engine RPM in climb (at full
throttle) but you will have to throttle back significantly in cruise to avoid
exceeding redline.
The ultimate cruise prop will achieve full rated engine RPM in level flight and
full throttle but your climbout will be at less than full RPM (therefore, less
than max power). You could actually go beyond cruise prop and have a 'descent
prop' where you can actually descend slightly at full power and not exceed
redline RPM. That will decrease your max cruise speed somewhat (and really hurt
climb rate) but at least full throttle cruise will be at a more comfortable
economy cruise RPM.
Where you fall in that range is a matter of personal preference. I actually
have 'descent prop' and really like it, but my turbo allows me to make up for
what would otherwise be poor climb performance.
For the specifics of how much pitch change will take you from one type of prop
to the next, you need to talk to the maker of the prop and your re-pitching
shop.
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6
On Tue, Dec 2, 2008 at 11:38 AM, wrote:
My RV9 has the recommended fix pitch prop on my 150 HP Lycoming 0-320 engine.
It has plenty of power and climb but I would like a little more speed than the
current 135-140 kt cruise.
I am considering having the prop re-pitched for more speed.
What do others think? Good idea or bad? How much more should I have the pitch
increased?
Thanks in advance for input.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
_____
Life should be ea&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002">Try the NEW
AOL.com.
-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Should I re-pitch my prop? |
From a practical standpoint there shouldn't be any reason why a 'spam
can' prop from the same engine won't work on Van's airplanes. What he
says about failures is true and should be part of your decision on where
your prop comes from. A prop can only be pitched and re-pitched so many
inches total, and then it's junk. When a prop is repitched, the change
is stamped on the hub. Or at least it should be. I think this is the
root of Van's warning. Documentation can be lacking so be careful.
Without an accurate prop log, which wasn't 'required' when I began my
road to the poorhouse, you can't be sure of the hours it has on it,
whether it was straightened after a slight prop strike or not ..... see
where I'm going on this???
Van likes Sensenich props, and that's the only ones he's 'tested' on his
birds .... hence the word 'approved' in his warning. A McCauley may be
better or worse than the Sensenich .... only testing would tell.
Linn
Jack Hilditch wrote:
>
> If memory serves me right, didnt Vans recommend against re-pitching
> metal props taken from spam-cans? I poked around a bit and found the
> following on Vans site.
>
> The Sensenich metal propellers we sell were developed specifically
> for the RV series and are the ONLY fixed pitch metal propellers
> approved by Van's Aircraft Inc. for use on RV aircraft.
>
> Propellers from production aircraft are not suitable, and unfortunate
> experience has shown that modified production propellers can fail
> without warning with deadly consequences.
>
> Full article can be found at:
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1228254533-26-123&browse=props&product=sen-prop
> <http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1228254533-26-123&browse=props&product=sen-prop>
>
> Jack Hilditch
>
> RV-9A ( R ) project
>
> Manchester, CT
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> **
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot testing |
On 2-Dec-08, at 14:29 , Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>
> I have been doing my Pitot testing. I have built a manometer per
> the EAA chapter 1000 instructions and using the MicroEncoder chart
> and Kevin Horton's spreadsheet.
>
> Here are some results:
>
> At lower airspeed numbers, the manometer readings are exact. As the
> airspeed numbers rise, the manometer readings deviate from the
> numbers on the spreadsheet that I have (thanks Kevin Horton) to the
> low side - meaning the manometer reading is lower than specified for
> a given airspeed indication...also meaning that the airspeed would
> indicate an amount higher than actual for the correct manometer
> reading. All are within the 3% or 5kts specified by FAR 23.1323.
>
> Also, I am experiencing a very slow bleed-down - on the order of 4
> to 7 minutes to lose 100kts of airspeed at 0035'MSL. The only way I
> found this was walking away to record my numbers in the computer
> after I was done - when I came back it was lower.....did not see it
> between tests while I was doing it though.
>
> I've looked through FAR 23.1323 - Airspeed indicating system. It
> does not have anything in it regarding a leak tolerance...unlike the
> FAR 23.1325 - Static pressure system, which allows 100fpm @ 1000'
> AGL indicated. What do folks use for a leakdown tolerance? Or is
> this good enough to not matter?
If a pitot system has no leaks, there is no air moving in it if you
are at a constant airspeed. The pressure will be the same everywhere
in the pitot system - i.e. the pressure at the entrance to the ASI
will be the same as the pressure at the pitot tube. If there is a
leak in the system, air must continually flow from the pitot tube to
the leak to replenish the air lost through the leak. Air will only
flow if there is a pressure differential to push it, so the pressure
at the leak has to be lower than the pressure at the pitot tube. But,
if the leak is small, the speed at which the air will be flowing will
be small, and the pressure differential required to push the air at
that rate will be small. Thus the effect of a very small leak is
negligible. The closer a leak is to the pitot entrance, the less
significant it is, as the pressure loss is proportional to the length
of tube that has air flowing it it. No air is flowing in the part of
the system between the leak and the ASI, so no further pressure loss
is occurring there.
A leak becomes a problem if it is big enough so there is an
appreciable pressure loss required to push the air through the system
from the pitot tube to the leak.
Your leak is very small, so it probably isn't causing an accuracy
problem now. But, it is a sign of a flaw in your system somewhere,
and I would wonder whether it will further degrade such that someday
it becomes a problem. If you don't find and fix it, I would do some
sort of periodic check to ensure that it hasn't gotten worse.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (Grounded)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Subject: | Re: Should I re-pitch my prop? |
linn Walters wrote:
>
> From a practical standpoint there shouldn't be any reason why a 'spam
> can' prop from the same engine won't work on Van's airplanes.
The reason very few fixed-pitch "spam can props" are practical for an RV
is because the speedy RV needs far more pitch than a C172 or similar
aircraft. The RV Sensenich props are steeply pitched, so much so that
special templates are required for a prop shop to measure the pitch. The
"big lever" method of repitching an RV prop is very difficult due to the
thick blade root. A return to Sensenich for repitch on their hydraulic
rig is the best way to go for our props.
The gory details of the repitching of my Sensenich by a local prop shop:
http://thervjournal.com/fairings.htm#repitch
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
I have not done manometer tests on my flying RV-6A, but I have done
leak down tests on both the static and pitot system. No leaks in
either system.
I have done airspeed calibration runs in the air using GPS ground
speed while flying North, South, East and West and averaging the
results. I run the speed tests at various altitudes and temperatures
and calculated the True Airspeed in each case. All the test runs had
similar results. At slow speeds (below 80 KTAS) my airspeed indicator
is accurate to within one knot. At moderate speeds (120-130 KTAS) my
airspeed reads four to five knots fast. At high speeds, (165 KTAS) the
error grows to about seven knots. I have one of Van's airspeed
indicators and it has no adjustment capability.
I find it interesting that Ralph's manometer tests also show a higher
than actual airspeed indication at high speeds. I am at a loss as to
why this happens and wonder if others have noticed similar errors.
Is this typical of Van's airspeed instruments? An acquaintance with an
RV-9 and a Dynon system says his airspeed indications are very
accurate at all speeds and altitudes.
Inquiring minds want to know.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
-----------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Pitot testing
Folks,
I have been doing my Pitot testing. I have built a manometer per the
EAA chapter
1000 instructions and using the MicroEncoder chart and Kevin Horton's
spreadsheet.
Here are some results:
At lower airspeed numbers, the manometer readings are exact. As the
airspeed numbers
rise, the manometer readings deviate from the numbers on the spreadsheet
that I have (thanks Kevin Horton) to the low side - meaning the
manometer reading
is lower than specified for a given airspeed indication...also meaning
that
the airspeed would indicate an amount higher than actual for the
correct manometer
reading. All are within the 3% or 5kts specified by FAR 23.1323.
Also, I am experiencing a very slow bleed-down - on the order of 4 to
7 minutes
to lose 100kts of airspeed at 0035'MSL. The only way I found this was
walking
away to record my numbers in the computer after I was done - when I
came back
it was lower.....did not see it between tests while I was doing it
though.
I've looked through FAR 23.1323 - Airspeed indicating system. It does
not have
anything in it regarding a leak tolerance...unlike the FAR 23.1325 -
Static pressure
system, which allows 100fpm @ 1000' AGL indicated. What do folks use
for a leakdown tolerance? Or is this good enough to not matter?
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Chuck,
I have a single scale air speed indicator. I originally had one
of Van's multi reading a/s indicator but found it had to much information
on the dial. So, since I do all things in Knots and Nautical miles, I
bought an indicator that reads only in Knots. I don't care to convert
back and forth with speeds. Keep it simple. My EFIS gives me TAS, GS,
and IAS (all in Knots). Almost more than I need to know. My testing of
the system for pressure and static required me to "glue" all the fittings
that are not directly required for instrument removal. I used "Goop"
adhesive available at the aviation section at the Home despot. Great
stuff. It also holds my static line in places in the cockpit where it
droops a bit. It also holds my wiring under my "arm rest" on the copilot
side for the ELT panel indicator.
Jim
____________________________________________________________
Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo search features.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw1aBnhEU3aOrbWSIUF3XQVpdY6QPAg6OUuYVjsp95bj3DmlV/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot testing |
The average of runs in four cardinal directions is only equal to the
TAS if the wind is calm. The error is small if the wind speed is low,
but the error can be large if the wind speed is large. If you are
going to use this method, pay attention to how much the ground speed
varies on the four runs. If the four ground speeds are not too
different, then the winds are low, and it is safe to use the average
of the four runs. At 150 kt, TAS, if the difference between the
highest and lowest ground is less than 25 kt, then the average of the
four ground speeds should be within a half kt of the TAS. If the
difference between the highest and lowest ground speeds is 35 kt, the
error could be as high as 1 kt. If the ground speeds are quite
different, then it would be more accurate to use a method that
accounts for the effect of wind, such as the four leg option of the
NTPS spreadsheet.
http://www.ntps.edu/Files/GPS%20PEC.XLS
Kevin Horton
On 3-Dec-08, at 11:50 , Charles Brame wrote:
> I have not done manometer tests on my flying RV-6A, but I have done
> leak down tests on both the static and pitot system. No leaks in
> either system.
>
> I have done airspeed calibration runs in the air using GPS ground
> speed while flying North, South, East and West and averaging the
> results. I run the speed tests at various altitudes and temperatures
> and calculated the True Airspeed in each case. All the test runs had
> similar results. At slow speeds (below 80 KTAS) my airspeed
> indicator is accurate to within one knot. At moderate speeds
> (120-130 KTAS) my airspeed reads four to five knots fast. At high
> speeds, (165 KTAS) the error grows to about seven knots. I have one
> of Van's airspeed indicators and it has no adjustment capability.
>
> I find it interesting that Ralph's manometer tests also show a
> higher than actual airspeed indication at high speeds. I am at a
> loss as to why this happens and wonder if others have noticed
> similar errors.
>
> Is this typical of Van's airspeed instruments? An acquaintance with
> an RV-9 and a Dynon system says his airspeed indications are very
> accurate at all speeds and altitudes.
>
> Inquiring minds want to know.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Pitot testing
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I have been doing my Pitot testing. I have built a manometer per
> the EAA chapter
> 1000 instructions and using the MicroEncoder chart and Kevin
> Horton's spreadsheet.
>
> Here are some results:
>
> At lower airspeed numbers, the manometer readings are exact. As the
> airspeed numbers
> rise, the manometer readings deviate from the numbers on the
> spreadsheet
> that I have (thanks Kevin Horton) to the low side - meaning the
> manometer reading
> is lower than specified for a given airspeed indication...also
> meaning that
> the airspeed would indicate an amount higher than actual for the
> correct manometer
> reading. All are within the 3% or 5kts specified by FAR 23.1323.
>
> Also, I am experiencing a very slow bleed-down - on the order of 4
> to 7 minutes
> to lose 100kts of airspeed at 0035'MSL. The only way I found this
> was walking
> away to record my numbers in the computer after I was done - when I
> came back
> it was lower.....did not see it between tests while I was doing it
> though.
>
> I've looked through FAR 23.1323 - Airspeed indicating system. It
> does not have
> anything in it regarding a leak tolerance...unlike the FAR 23.1325 -
> Static pressure
> system, which allows 100fpm @ 1000' AGL indicated. What do folks use
> for a leakdown tolerance? Or is this good enough to not matter?
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bert murillo <robertrv607(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi:
I need to buy one of the blocks I cannot remember the technical
name Hw...something, the white material block, that holds the
cannopy down, on the rear sides, for slider..
I know I can order it from Vans, but you what the cost will be...
I recently order a few bolts I needed, the total cost of the
items was $11.80..the so called shipping and Handling was almost
$10.00,,, a rip off..
Does any one knows where I can buy it, besides Van's??
I never understand , how the shipping cost you more than the items
you buy....
Thanks for any info on this...
Bert
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
they should know better.. don't they ever read the instruction manual?
Robert
I have always said: Ignorance and stupidity, are not the privilege,or
peopole on third world countries. It is abounding in the USA, not only on
people with no highschool education, but in the upper ladder, even the
President of the US, has shown stupidity many times...
NO sense on trying to convince people, on something they already have
created in their minds to be true... is a waste of time.
robert
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bert murillo
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 8:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: Nedd info
Hi:
I need to buy one of the blocks I cannot remember the technical
name Hw...something, the white material block, that holds the
cannopy down, on the rear sides, for slider..
I know I can order it from Vans, but you what the cost will be...
I recently order a few bolts I needed, the total cost of the
items was $11.80..the so called shipping and Handling was almost
$10.00,,, a rip off..
Does any one knows where I can buy it, besides Van's??
I never understand , how the shipping cost you more than the items
you buy....
Thanks for any info on this...
Bert
rv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JAMES BOWEN <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
Isn't the purpose of this list to help as many builders as possible? The di
ssemination of information to those who request it. It's kind of what build
s this little community of ours. I thought the only dumb question was the o
ne not asked............
Jim
> From: dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RE: RV-Li
st: Nedd info> Date: Wed=2C 3 Dec 2008 20:44:42 -0500> > --> RV-List messag
e posted by: "Dale Walter" dale1rv6(at)comcast.net > > --> RV-List message pos
ted by: bert murillo > > they should know better.. d
on't they ever read the instruction manual?> Robert> > I have always said:
Ignorance and stupidity=2C are not the privilege=2Cor> peopole on third wor
ld countries. It is abounding in the USA=2C not only on> people with no hig
hschool education=2C but in the upper ladder=2C even the> President of the
US=2C has shown stupidity many times...> > NO sense on trying to convince p
eople=2C on something they already have> created in their minds to be true.
.. is a waste of time.> > robert> > -----Original Message-----> From: owner
-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]
On Behalf Of bert murillo> Sent: Wednesday=2C December 03=2C 2008 8:26 PM>
ge posted by: bert murillo > > Hi:> > I need to buy
one of the blocks I cannot remember the technical> name Hw...something=2C t
he white material block=2C that holds the> cannopy down=2C on the rear side
s=2C for slider..> > I know I can order it from Vans=2C but you what the co
st will be...> I recently order a few bolts I needed=2C the total cost of t
he> items was $11.80..the so called shipping and Handling was almost> $10.0
0=2C=2C=2C a rip off..> > Does any one knows where I can buy it=2C besides
Van's??> > I never understand =2C how the shipping cost you more than the i
tems> you buy....> > Thanks for any info on this...> > > Bert> > rv6a> > >
=================> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Randy Hooper" <krhooper(at)gmail.com> |
Bert, I think you are talking about UHMW, Ultra High Molecular Weight
material.
Here in Nashville I have found it at Nashville Rubber and Gasket. Maybe you
have a similar supplier near you.
Randy Hooper
On Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 7:26 PM, bert murillo wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
> I need to buy one of the blocks I cannot remember the technical
> name Hw...something, the white material block, that holds the
> cannopy down, on the rear sides, for slider..
>
> I know I can order it from Vans, but you what the cost will be...
> I recently order a few bolts I needed, the total cost of the
> items was $11.80..the so called shipping and Handling was almost
> $10.00,,, a rip off..
>
> Does any one knows where I can buy it, besides Van's??
>
> I never understand , how the shipping cost you more than the items
> you buy....
>
> Thanks for any info on this...
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
>
--
Randy Hooper
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MikeNellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
Is it just me or is the following quoted paragraph an oxymoron? The
writer states, "I have always said........" and then goes on to deliver
a paragraph filled with punctuation and grammar mistakes. It just
proves the validity of his statement by using himself as an example.
Come on, if you're going to discuss ignorance and stupidity at least
proof your comments before sending them.
Mike
>
>
> they should know better.. don't they ever read the instruction manual?
> Robert
>
> I have always said: Ignorance and stupidity, are not the privilege,or
> peopole on third world countries. It is abounding in the USA, not only on
> people with no highschool education, but in the upper ladder, even the
> President of the US, has shown stupidity many times...
>
> NO sense on trying to convince people, on something they already have
> created in their minds to be true... is a waste of time.
>
> robert
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Deene Ogden " <deene(at)austin.rr.com> |
Avery tools sells this material (UHMW) in small blocks.
Deene Ogden
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Nelson <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> |
Hi Bert,
I got my UHMW from a plastics distributor in town. I stopped by and and they
allowed me to poke around their scrap bin.
Regards,
/\/elson
On Wed, 3 Dec 2008, bert murillo wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
> I need to buy one of the blocks I cannot remember the technical
> name Hw...something, the white material block, that holds the
> cannopy down, on the rear sides, for slider..
>
> I know I can order it from Vans, but you what the cost will be...
> I recently order a few bolts I needed, the total cost of the
> items was $11.80..the so called shipping and Handling was almost
> $10.00,,, a rip off..
>
> Does any one knows where I can buy it, besides Van's??
>
> I never understand , how the shipping cost you more than the items
> you buy....
>
> Thanks for any info on this...
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Tap plastics
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=24
has some HDPE (Rigid High-Density Polyethylene probably not the same stuff
- as HUMW
but is is great to work with for making odd things,
I have a store near me and have used this on aviation
--- On Thu, 12/4/08, Deene Ogden wrote:
From: Deene Ogden <deene(at)austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Nedd info
Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008, 3:28 AM
Avery tools sells this material (UHMW) in small blocks=85
-
Deene Ogden
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
On Thu, 4 Dec 2008, dan(at)rdan.com wrote:
> Tap plastics
> http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=24
> has some HDPE (Rigid High-Density Polyethylene probably not the same
> stuff- as HUMW
> but is is great to work with for making odd things,
> I have a store near me and have used this on aviation
>
Another source of cheap, hard plastic is plastic cutting boards. If you
find it on sale, can be quite cheap.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 Fitting fuel vent lines.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying