RV-Archive.digest.vol-tv
December 11, 2008 - January 13, 2009
5 min
10 min
15 min
20 min
25 min
30 min
5.. IF CHT => 400=B0F, advise LANDING
6.. 30 Minutes
1.. Prompt for
1.. RPM: ______________
2.. MAP: ______________
3.. AIRSPEED: _________
2.. Remind to LAND
7.. Record Landing Time: _______________
8.. IF CRASH:
1.. Dial 911 & give location
2.. Save Pilot ' aircraft is secondary
3.. Gloves, knife, hatchet, Fire Extinguisher
4.. Canopy latch rotates CLOCKWISE to OPEN
5.. MASTER OFF (lower left panel)
6.. Fuel Selector: (center, front of spar)
1.. OFF (aft left)
7.. Seat belts: PULL FLAP
8.. Shoulder Harness: PULL TABS to LOOSEN
9.. Cowl:
1.. Oil Door for top cowl hinge wires on firewall
2.. Phillips screwdriver for hinge wires on cowl halves
10.. Battery located on pilot side firewall
2.. Chase
1.. Monitor 122.85
2.. Com check: Ground/TestFlight
3.. Depart first; take station EAST of runway
4.. Take up =BD mile trail
5.. Check Fluids/Flapping Parts
6.. If TestFlight rocks wings:
1.. Come up on right wing till TestFlight acknowledges
2.. Fly under to left wing, then over top to right wing
3.. Signal TestFlight:
1.. OK: Thumbsup
2.. Problems: cut Throat to land
7.. Emergencies:
1.. Com Failure:
1.. Come up on right wing
2.. Point to Ears
2.. Parts/Fluid/fire:
1.. Come up on right wing
2.. Cut Throat to indicate landing
3.. Remind pilot:
1.. Master Off
2.. FUEL OFF
3.. Canopy Unlatched ' but closed
3.. Crash:
1.. Tell Ground location
2.. Circle till Ground arrives
3.. TestFlight
1.. Equipment:
1.. Fire extinguisher
2.. Hatchet
3.. Knife
2.. Com: 122.85
3.. Com Check: Ground/Chase
4.. Ensure EIS configuration set for oil temp
5.. Retest Brakes on taxi/runup
6.. Depart after Chase
7.. TAKEOFF:
1.. FULL POWER, FULL RICH (lean only to smooth engine)
2.. 70-75% power
1.. 3000', 2400/24"
8.. Verify Airspeed registering
9.. Boost Pump Off
10.. Orbit, traffic pattern direction, =BD mile radius of airport
11.. IF CHT => 400=B0F, LAND
12.. Tasks
1.. Straight & Level:
1.. Both trims in neutral
2.. Record vsi/roll:
_____________________________________________________
3.. Adjust for level
2.. Tell Ground OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
3.. Check w/ Chase that area is clear
4.. Stall
1.. Slow to mushy controls/buffet
2.. Airspeed: _________
3.. Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
4.. Flaps: 20% (two marks)
5.. Airspeed: _________
6.. Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
7.. Flaps: FULL
8.. Airspeed: _________
9.. Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
5.. Airspeed Check:
1.. Setup Airspeed to 120 kts
2.. Call Chase to right side
3.. Compare airspeeds with Chase
6.. Land
1.. Downwind: 1.5 times clean stall (80-90 kts?)
2.. Base: 20=B0 flaps
3.. Stay on mains if possible
13.. Signals:
1.. Ears: com failure
2.. Cut Throat: Land
3.. Rock Wings: Chase come up to look over TestFlight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A N822AR gets airworthiness certificate |
Folks,
After a five-hour inspection/paperwork session with Bill Meserole (DAR), my aircraft
is deemed fit-to-fly the phase one test program (40 hours within a 50nm
radius circle, day VFR). Soon I'll have a session with Pierre Smith in GA for
some refresher training (I already have my sign-off) - then we'll have a first
flight report.
Ralph Capen
RV6A N822AR 0 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | 1st Flight Test Plan? |
I completely agree with another post; this is way more than you need to
worry about on your first and even the second flight. Focus on how the
plane feels, and try some slow flight before landing. Don=92t venture
too far
from the airport, keep it short maybe 15 or 20 minutes and then land and
go
celebrate. The 25 ' 40 hours after this will provide plenty of time
to
figure out the rest in small chunks. Your complete attention is needed
to
verify controllability and landing potential on your first flight.
Just my .02 cents worth.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J Riffel
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 8:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: 1st Flight Test Plan?
I'd appreciate any constructive input on my plan for my 1st Flight:
____________________
1. Ground
1. Equipment:
1. Fire extinguisher
2. Hatchet
3. Knife
4. Gloves
5. Phillips screwdriver
2. monitor freq: 122.85
3. Record Launch Time: __________________________________
4. Prompt/record:
Elapsed
Oil Press
Oil Temp
EGT1
EGT2
EGT3
EGT4
CHT1
CHT2
CHT3
CHT4
2 min
5 min
10 min
15 min
20 min
25 min
30 min
5. IF CHT => 400=B0F, advise LANDING
6. 30 Minutes
1. Prompt for
1. RPM: ______________
2. MAP: ______________
3. AIRSPEED: _________
2. Remind to LAND
7. Record Landing Time: _______________
8. IF CRASH:
1. Dial 911 & give location
2. Save Pilot ' aircraft is secondary
3. Gloves, knife, hatchet, Fire Extinguisher
4. Canopy latch rotates CLOCKWISE to OPEN
5. MASTER OFF (lower left panel)
6. Fuel Selector: (center, front of spar)
1. OFF (aft left)
7. Seat belts: PULL FLAP
8. Shoulder Harness: PULL TABS to LOOSEN
9. Cowl:
1. Oil Door for top cowl hinge wires on firewall
2. Phillips screwdriver for hinge wires on cowl halves
10. Battery located on pilot side firewall
2. Chase
1. Monitor 122.85
2. Com check: Ground/TestFlight
3. Depart first; take station EAST of runway
4. Take up =BD mile trail
5. Check Fluids/Flapping Parts
6. If TestFlight rocks wings:
1. Come up on right wing till TestFlight acknowledges
2. Fly under to left wing, then over top to right wing
3. Signal TestFlight:
1. OK: Thumbsup
2. Problems: cut Throat to land
7. Emergencies:
1. Com Failure:
1. Come up on right wing
2. Point to Ears
2. Parts/Fluid/fire:
1. Come up on right wing
2. Cut Throat to indicate landing
3. Remind pilot:
1. Master Off
2. FUEL OFF
3. Canopy Unlatched ' but closed
3. Crash:
1. Tell Ground location
2. Circle till Ground arrives
3. TestFlight
1. Equipment:
1. Fire extinguisher
2. Hatchet
3. Knife
2. Com: 122.85
3. Com Check: Ground/Chase
4. Ensure EIS configuration set for oil temp
5. Retest Brakes on taxi/runup
6. Depart after Chase
7. TAKEOFF:
1. FULL POWER, FULL RICH (lean only to smooth engine)
2. 70-75% power
1. 3000', 2400/24"
8. Verify Airspeed registering
9. Boost Pump Off
10. Orbit, traffic pattern direction, =BD mile radius of airport
11. IF CHT => 400=B0F, LAND
12. Tasks
1. Straight & Level:
1. Both trims in neutral
2. Record vsi/roll:
_____________________________________________________
3. Adjust for level
2. Tell Ground OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
3. Check w/ Chase that area is clear
4. Stall
1. Slow to mushy controls/buffet
2. Airspeed: _________
3. Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
4. Flaps: 20% (two marks)
5. Airspeed: _________
6. Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
7. Flaps: FULL
8. Airspeed: _________
9. Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
5. Airspeed Check:
1. Setup Airspeed to 120 kts
2. Call Chase to right side
3. Compare airspeeds with Chase
6. Land
1. Downwind: 1.5 times clean stall (80-90 kts?)
2. Base: 20=B0 flaps
3. Stay on mains if possible
13. Signals:
1. Ears: com failure
2. Cut Throat: Land
3. Rock Wings: Chase come up to look over TestFlight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1st Flight Test Plan? |
A system I have used as a Flight Advisor that keeps the test pilot attentio
n on flying the airplane and not trying to read the flight plan and record
data:
A person on the ground with handheld radio w/ headset and clip board with t
he flight plan/check list.The ground person calls out the items. Test pilot
checks the insurments/airplane and responds to the ground member. Ground p
erson records the data and flight time.
A preflight briefing between test pilot and ground crew helps all this take
place.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Lee
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 11:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 1st Flight Test Plan?
Hopefully someone else will record all that data. Not the test pilot.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: J Riffel
To: rv-list
Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 7:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: 1st Flight Test Plan?
I'd appreciate any constructive input on my plan for my 1st Flight:
____________________
1.. Ground
1.. Equipment:
1.. Fire extinguisher
2.. Hatchet
3.. Knife
4.. Gloves
5.. Phillips screwdriver
2.. monitor freq: 122.85
3.. Record Launch Time: __________________________________
4.. Prompt/record:
Elapsed
Oil Press
Oil Temp
EGT1
EGT2
EGT3
EGT4
CHT1
CHT2
CHT3
CHT4
2 min
5 min
10 min
15 min
20 min
25 min
30 min
5.. IF CHT => 400=B0F, advise LANDING
6.. 30 Minutes
1.. Prompt for
1.. RPM: ______________
2.. MAP: ______________
3.. AIRSPEED: _________
2.. Remind to LAND
7.. Record Landing Time: _______________
8.. IF CRASH:
1.. Dial 911 & give location
2.. Save Pilot ' aircraft is secondary
3.. Gloves, knife, hatchet, Fire Extinguisher
4.. Canopy latch rotates CLOCKWISE to OPEN
5.. MASTER OFF (lower left panel)
6.. Fuel Selector: (center, front of spar)
1.. OFF (aft left)
7.. Seat belts: PULL FLAP
8.. Shoulder Harness: PULL TABS to LOOSEN
9.. Cowl:
1.. Oil Door for top cowl hinge wires on firewall
2.. Phillips screwdriver for hinge wires on cowl halves
10.. Battery located on pilot side firewall
2.. Chase
1.. Monitor 122.85
2.. Com check: Ground/TestFlight
3.. Depart first; take station EAST of runway
4.. Take up =BD mile trail
5.. Check Fluids/Flapping Parts
6.. If TestFlight rocks wings:
1.. Come up on right wing till TestFlight acknowledges
2.. Fly under to left wing, then over top to right wing
3.. Signal TestFlight:
1.. OK: Thumbsup
2.. Problems: cut Throat to land
7.. Emergencies:
1.. Com Failure:
1.. Come up on right wing
2.. Point to Ears
2.. Parts/Fluid/fire:
1.. Come up on right wing
2.. Cut Throat to indicate landing
3.. Remind pilot:
1.. Master Off
2.. FUEL OFF
3.. Canopy Unlatched ' but closed
3.. Crash:
1.. Tell Ground location
2.. Circle till Ground arrives
3.. TestFlight
1.. Equipment:
1.. Fire extinguisher
2.. Hatchet
3.. Knife
2.. Com: 122.85
3.. Com Check: Ground/Chase
4.. Ensure EIS configuration set for oil temp
5.. Retest Brakes on taxi/runup
6.. Depart after Chase
7.. TAKEOFF:
1.. FULL POWER, FULL RICH (lean only to smooth engine)
2.. 70-75% power
1.. 3000', 2400/24"
8.. Verify Airspeed registering
9.. Boost Pump Off
10.. Orbit, traffic pattern direction, =BD mile radius of airport
11.. IF CHT => 400=B0F, LAND
12.. Tasks
1.. Straight & Level:
1.. Both trims in neutral
2.. Record vsi/roll: __________________________________________
___________
3.. Adjust for level
2.. Tell Ground OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
3.. Check w/ Chase that area is clear
4.. Stall
1.. Slow to mushy controls/buffet
2.. Airspeed: _________
3.. Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
4.. Flaps: 20% (two marks)
5.. Airspeed: _________
6.. Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
7.. Flaps: FULL
8.. Airspeed: _________
9.. Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
5.. Airspeed Check:
1.. Setup Airspeed to 120 kts
2.. Call Chase to right side
3.. Compare airspeeds with Chase
6.. Land
1.. Downwind: 1.5 times clean stall (80-90 kts?)
2.. Base: 20=B0 flaps
3.. Stay on mains if possible
13.. Signals:
1.. Ears: com failure
2.. Cut Throat: Land
3.. Rock Wings: Chase come up to look over TestFlight
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chr
ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 1st Flight Test Plan? |
Very well said Tim... And no big crowd necessary!
Darrell
--- On Thu, 12/11/08, Tim Bryan wrote:
> From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: 1st Flight Test Plan?
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, December 11, 2008, 7:57 AM
> I completely agree with another post; this is way more than
> you need to
> worry about on your first and even the second flight.
> Focus on how the
> plane feels, and try some slow flight before landing.
> Dont venture too far
> from the airport, keep it short maybe 15 or 20 minutes and
> then land and go
> celebrate. The 25 40 hours after this will provide
> plenty of time to
> figure out the rest in small chunks. Your complete
> attention is needed to
> verify controllability and landing potential on your first
> flight.
>
>
>
> Just my .02 cents worth.
>
>
>
> Tim Bryan
>
> RV-6 Flying
>
> N616TB over 120 hours now
>
>
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J
> Riffel
> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 8:38 PM
> To: rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: 1st Flight Test Plan?
>
>
>
> I'd appreciate any constructive input on my plan for my
> 1st Flight:
>
>
>
> ____________________
>
>
>
> 1. Ground
>
> 1. Equipment:
>
> 1. Fire extinguisher
>
> 2. Hatchet
>
> 3. Knife
>
> 4. Gloves
>
> 5. Phillips screwdriver
>
> 2. monitor freq: 122.85
>
> 3. Record Launch Time:
> __________________________________
>
> 4. Prompt/record:
>
>
> Elapsed
>
> Oil Press
>
> Oil Temp
>
> EGT1
>
> EGT2
>
> EGT3
>
> EGT4
>
> CHT1
>
> CHT2
>
> CHT3
>
> CHT4
>
>
> 2 min
>
>
>
>
> 5 min
>
>
>
>
> 10 min
>
>
>
>
> 15 min
>
>
>
>
> 20 min
>
>
>
>
> 25 min
>
>
>
>
> 30 min
>
>
>
>
> 5. IF CHT => 400F, advise LANDING
>
> 6. 30 Minutes
>
> 1. Prompt for
>
> 1. RPM: ______________
>
> 2. MAP: ______________
>
> 3. AIRSPEED: _________
>
> 2. Remind to LAND
>
> 7. Record Landing Time: _______________
>
> 8. IF CRASH:
>
> 1. Dial 911 & give location
>
> 2. Save Pilot aircraft is secondary
>
> 3. Gloves, knife, hatchet, Fire Extinguisher
>
> 4. Canopy latch rotates CLOCKWISE to OPEN
>
> 5. MASTER OFF (lower left panel)
>
> 6. Fuel Selector: (center, front of spar)
>
> 1. OFF (aft left)
>
> 7. Seat belts: PULL FLAP
>
> 8. Shoulder Harness: PULL TABS to LOOSEN
>
> 9. Cowl:
>
> 1. Oil Door for top cowl hinge wires on firewall
>
> 2. Phillips screwdriver for hinge wires on cowl halves
>
> 10. Battery located on pilot side firewall
>
> 2. Chase
>
> 1. Monitor 122.85
>
> 2. Com check: Ground/TestFlight
>
> 3. Depart first; take station EAST of runway
>
> 4. Take up mile trail
>
> 5. Check Fluids/Flapping Parts
>
> 6. If TestFlight rocks wings:
>
> 1. Come up on right wing till TestFlight acknowledges
>
> 2. Fly under to left wing, then over top to right wing
>
> 3. Signal TestFlight:
>
> 1. OK: Thumbsup
>
> 2. Problems: cut Throat to land
>
> 7. Emergencies:
>
> 1. Com Failure:
>
> 1. Come up on right wing
>
> 2. Point to Ears
>
> 2. Parts/Fluid/fire:
>
> 1. Come up on right wing
>
> 2. Cut Throat to indicate landing
>
> 3. Remind pilot:
>
> 1. Master Off
>
> 2. FUEL OFF
>
> 3. Canopy Unlatched but closed
>
> 3. Crash:
>
> 1. Tell Ground location
>
> 2. Circle till Ground arrives
>
> 3. TestFlight
>
> 1. Equipment:
>
> 1. Fire extinguisher
>
> 2. Hatchet
>
> 3. Knife
>
> 2. Com: 122.85
>
> 3. Com Check: Ground/Chase
>
> 4. Ensure EIS configuration set for oil temp
>
> 5. Retest Brakes on taxi/runup
>
> 6. Depart after Chase
>
> 7. TAKEOFF:
>
> 1. FULL POWER, FULL RICH (lean only to smooth engine)
>
> 2. 70-75% power
>
> 1. 3000', 2400/24"
>
> 8. Verify Airspeed registering
>
> 9. Boost Pump Off
>
> 10. Orbit, traffic pattern direction, mile radius of
> airport
>
> 11. IF CHT => 400F, LAND
>
> 12. Tasks
>
> 1. Straight & Level:
>
> 1. Both trims in neutral
>
> 2. Record vsi/roll:
> _____________________________________________________
>
> 3. Adjust for level
>
> 2. Tell Ground OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
>
> 3. Check w/ Chase that area is clear
>
> 4. Stall
>
> 1. Slow to mushy controls/buffet
>
> 2. Airspeed: _________
>
> 3. Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
>
> 4. Flaps: 20% (two marks)
>
> 5. Airspeed: _________
>
> 6. Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
>
> 7. Flaps: FULL
>
> 8. Airspeed: _________
>
> 9. Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
>
> 5. Airspeed Check:
>
> 1. Setup Airspeed to 120 kts
>
> 2. Call Chase to right side
>
> 3. Compare airspeeds with Chase
>
> 6. Land
>
> 1. Downwind: 1.5 times clean stall (80-90 kts?)
>
> 2. Base: 20 flaps
>
> 3. Stay on mains if possible
>
> 13. Signals:
>
> 1. Ears: com failure
>
> 2. Cut Throat: Land
>
> 3. Rock Wings: Chase come up to look over TestFlight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1st Flight Test Plan? |
I did this about two weeks ago and agree with previous comments.- Your to
tal focus needs to be on flying the airplane and monitoring engine performa
nce to the extent you assure that it continues to make noise.- Plenty of
time to record stuff later.- Keep it simple.- Keep it short. Stay focus
ed on the airplane.- Have fun.
-
Craig Gallenbach
RV8A N184CG
5 hours
--- On Wed, 12/10/08, J Riffel wrote:
From: J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: 1st Flight Test Plan?
Date: Wednesday, December 10, 2008, 8:37 PM
I'd appreciate any constructive input on my plan for my 1st Flight:
-
____________________
-
Ground
Equipment:
Fire extinguisher
Hatchet
Knife
Gloves
Phillips screwdriver
monitor freq: 122.85
Record Launch Time: __________________________________
Prompt/record:
Elapsed
Oil Press
Oil Temp
EGT1
EGT2
EGT3
EGT4
CHT1
CHT2
CHT3
CHT4
2 min
5 min
10 min
15 min
20 min
25 min
30 min
IF CHT => 400=B0F, advise LANDING
30 Minutes
Prompt for
RPM: ______________
MAP: ______________
AIRSPEED: _________
Remind to LAND
Record Landing Time: _______________
IF CRASH:
Dial 911 & give location
Save Pilot ' aircraft is secondary
Gloves, knife, hatchet, Fire Extinguisher
Canopy latch rotates CLOCKWISE to OPEN
MASTER OFF (lower left panel)
Fuel Selector: (center, front of spar)
OFF (aft left)
Seat belts: PULL FLAP
Shoulder Harness: PULL TABS to LOOSEN
Cowl:
Oil Door for top cowl hinge wires on firewall
Phillips screwdriver for hinge wires on cowl halves
Battery located on pilot side firewall
Chase
Monitor 122.85
Com check: Ground/TestFlight
Depart first; take station EAST of runway
Take up =BD mile trail
Check Fluids/Flapping Parts
If TestFlight rocks wings:
Come up on right wing till TestFlight acknowledges
Fly under to left wing, then over top to right wing
Signal TestFlight:
OK: Thumbsup
Problems: cut Throat to land
Emergencies:
Com Failure:
Come up on right wing
Point to Ears
Parts/Fluid/fire:
Come up on right wing
Cut Throat to indicate landing
Remind pilot:
Master Off
FUEL OFF
Canopy Unlatched ' but closed
Crash:
Tell Ground location
Circle till Ground arrives
TestFlight
Equipment:
Fire extinguisher
Hatchet
Knife
Com: 122.85
Com Check: Ground/Chase
Ensure EIS configuration set for oil temp
Retest Brakes on taxi/runup
Depart after Chase
TAKEOFF:
FULL POWER, FULL RICH (lean only to smooth engine)
70-75% power
3000', 2400/24"
Verify Airspeed registering
Boost Pump Off
Orbit, traffic pattern direction, =BD mile radius of airport
IF CHT => 400=B0F, LAND
Tasks
Straight & Level:
Both trims in neutral
Record vsi/roll: _____________________________________________________
Adjust for level
Tell Ground OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
Check w/ Chase that area is clear
Stall
Slow to mushy controls/buffet
Airspeed: _________
Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
Flaps: 20% (two marks)
Airspeed: _________
Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
Flaps: FULL
Airspeed: _________
Check: OilT/P, EGTs, CHTs
Airspeed Check:
Setup Airspeed to 120 kts
Call Chase to right side
Compare airspeeds with Chase
Land
Downwind: 1.5 times clean stall (80-90 kts?)
Base: 20=B0 flaps
Stay on mains if possible
Signals:
Ears: com failure
Cut Throat: Land
Rock Wings: Chase come up to look over TestFlight
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 1st Flight Test Plan? |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
You did not say what type of instrumentation you are using to tell you
the info you want. I have the EIS from Grand Rapids that has limits
(both high and low) set in the unit. If any of these are exceeded, the
"big red light" turns on and tells you what is the offending parameter.
That way, on my first flight, and the rest of them, I could concentrate
on flying the plane. There is enough stress on the pilot for the first
flight with out taking your attention off the flying. CHT's are the
most important thing to watch. I kept my airspeed on take off in the
110K range. This gave me good cooling as well as good visibility. It
also gives you many options if things get sticky. Airspeed is life as
the air force jocks will tell you. The biggest problem will be to loose
the airspeed on downwind. That means that I need to reduce power as soon
as I get to downwind altitude. Tough to do with the slippery RV's. In
thirty seconds you will be ready to turn cross wind and then thirty
seconds later, to down wind. It all happens fast !!!!!!
Jim
____________________________________________________________
Criminal Lawyers - Click here.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1st Flight Test Plan? |
On 10-Dec-08, at 21:37 , J Riffel wrote:
> I'd appreciate any constructive input on my plan for my 1st Flight:
>
Three comments:
1. I'd drop the formation airspeed check. Doing a 120 kt airspeed
check just adds more low power time, which detracts from the engine
break-in, but it doesn't tell you anything that can't wait a few
flights. Take your IAS at the full flap stall, and multiply by about
1.5, and do a very quick controllablity evaluation at that speed. If
it feels good, use that for the initial approach speed. You can work
on dialing that down a bit slower on subsequent flights.
2. I'd restrict the duration to 20 minutes, or less. There are a lot
of things that can be happening ahead of the firewall on the first
flight, and it is best to keep the duration short, and then do a very
detailed inspection before flying again. I know of several RV owners
who had the alternator pulley wear through the cowling on the first
flight. I thought I had enough clearance between the alternator
pulley and the cowling, but apparently the air loads push the lower
cowling aft. I did a 20 minute first flight, and my alternator pulley
put a very deep gouge in the cowling. I think it may have worn all
the way through in 30 minutes. It is a lot easier to fill in a gouge,
that it is to repair it if it comes all the way through. I also had
an issue with heat stress on the throttle cable, as it was too close
to the exhaust.
3. I wouldn't record EGT. It tells you nothing useful. CHTs, oil
temperature and oil pressure should be monitored. Recording them is
optional.
I like the detailed notes on ground items, chase briefing, etc.
Good luck,
--
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICHARD MILLER <rickpegser(at)yahoo.com> |
HEADS UP!!! Just got an email from one of our clients warning us of a big virus
coming. If you get an attachment entitled 'POSTCARD FROM HALLMARK' regardless
of who sent it to you, DO NOT OPEN IT. It is a virus which opens a post card
image which "burns" the whole hard disc C of your computer. I have checked with
our office computer people and this is a threat that is coming so be warned.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net> |
Best tell your clients to verify before sending hoax warnings. This has
been going around for a while.
http://urbanlegends.about.com/library/bl_postcard_virus.htm
RICHARD MILLER wrote:
>
>HEADS UP!!! Just got an email from one of our clients warning us of a big virus
coming. If you get an attachment entitled 'POSTCARD FROM HALLMARK' regardless
of who sent it to you, DO NOT OPEN IT. It is a virus which opens a post card
image which "burns" the whole hard disc C of your computer. I have checked with
our office computer people and this is a threat that is coming so be warned.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com> |
Darn you Jerry! Not only did you beat me to calling this a hoax, you
sited the same source. Symantec's web site tells us that the MYDOOM
virus used the E-card from Hallmark subject but that was a year ago. If
your virus definitions are up to date then you will be covered.
Virus are a real problem and we appreciate your concern. I work for an
ISP and respond to these warnings every week. Education is the best
defense. If someone sends a warning such as this, check it out and let
the sender know if it isn't real.
Cheers
Mark
Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> Best tell your clients to verify before sending hoax warnings. This
> has been going around for a while.
>
> http://urbanlegends.about.com/library/bl_postcard_virus.htm
>
>
> RICHARD MILLER wrote:
>
>>
>> HEADS UP!!! Just got an email from one of our clients warning us of a
>> big virus coming. If you get an attachment entitled 'POSTCARD FROM
>> HALLMARK' regardless of who sent it to you, DO NOT OPEN IT. It is a
>> virus which opens a post card image which "burns" the whole hard disc
>> C of your computer. I have checked with our office computer people
>> and this is a threat that is coming so be warned.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICHARD MILLER <rickpegser(at)yahoo.com> |
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The FAA and Homeland security ban Santa Claus from domestic airspace
Written by Buck E Filbert
In a surprise move today The Federal Aviation Administration and Homeland Security
joined forces to unilaterally deny domestic air space clearance to the traditional
Christmas Eve sleigh ride by Santa Claus.
Santa's ride has been bringing joy and happiness to millions of children for generations.
Irate parents worldwide are said to be absolutely distraught. "Who's
going to eat the milk and cookies for a start?" asked one parent.
Homeland Security has said that any penetration into American air space will be
considered an act of aggression as part of their duty in keeping American airspace
and borders safe. A spokesman from Homeland Security told us, "We just can't
have every jolly, rosy cheeked, white haired fruitcake in the world flying
around American air space unsupervised."
FAA are scratching their heads about where to begin certifying Santa's sleigh as
safe for flight. There are no standards regulating the stability and performance
of reindeer, also the FAA simply don't know how to inspect a machine which,
in their minds, "totally defies the laws of physics".
The FAA will consider granting clearance if all FAA regulations are met. Here are
a few:
* As a powered aircraft, Santa's sleigh requires a proper licensed propulsion system
(Reindeer fed on magic dust are not mentioned in the regs and can't be used).
* A single red light at the lead of the pack of reindeer does not constitute a
set of running lights
* The Sleigh must have a valid maintenance certificate and must meet aerodynamic
requirements and be tested in a wind-tunnel.
* Detailed flight plans must be plotted and submitted to the FAA at least six months
in advance
Santa Claus is said to be very upset by the reaction from these US agencies and
feels the actions are a direct violation of the Children's basic human rights.
Homeland Security laid down the following ultimatum to Santa Claus, "If we see
any flying sleighs in the skies over America you can bet you bottom dollar there'll
be a F-16 with sidewinders blasting it outta the sky."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com> |
| Subject: | 1st Flight Test Plan? |
A well thought out plan guys! I hope to have my RV-9A flying next year.
When I flew my Kitfox for the first time I had the classic case of
tunnel vision even with that slow flying plane.
On the RV I think I'll have some sort of recorder plugged into the
intercom to take notes and readings...
Joe Connell
RV-9A N95JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Which is a good vacuum pump? |
I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in 300 hours flight
time. Is there another brand that people have had better luck with?
Tempest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
Thanks!
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and
favorite sites in one place. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Which is a good vacuum pump? |
If you really want to keep your vacuum gyros and not upgrade to electric,
then I think that the best bet today is the Sigma-Tek piston pump.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 908hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
In a message dated 12/12/2008 9:20:51 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
Knicholas2(at)aol.com writes:
I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in 300 hours flight
time. Is there another brand that people have had better luck with?
Tempest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
**************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and
favorite sites in one place. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Which is a good vacuum pump? |
What most forget is that when a vacuum pump lets go, it will blow dirt
and
debris upstream of the pump, fowling the hose and regulator. It's
important
to flush all the hoses and replace all the filter elements after a pump
failure. Each vacuum instrument usually has a filter behind its inlet
that
should be cleaned also. Failure to clean the system will result in the
new
pumps first breath of air being full of dirt and soot, not good for the
long
life of the new pump.
If you want a vacuum pump that will last to TBO of your engine, take a
look
at the wet vacuum pump.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org <http://www.glasair.org/>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 12:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in 300 hours
flight
time. Is there another brand that people have had better luck with?
Tempest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
Thanks!
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
_____
Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites
in
one place. Try it now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Which is a good vacuum pump? |
Agree. The Sigma-Tek I have has been going strong for the last 1=2C200 hour
s.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C170+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Sat=2C 13 Dec 2008 00:36:29 -0500
Subject: Re: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
If you really want to keep your vacuum gyros and not upgrade to electric=2C
then I think that the best bet today is the Sigma-Tek piston pump.
N1GV (RV-6A=2C Flying 908hrs=2C O-360-A1A=2C C/S=2C Silicon
Valley)
In a message dated 12/12/2008 9:20:51 P.M. Pacific Standard Time=2C
Knicholas2(at)aol.com writes:
I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in 300 hours
flight time. Is there another brand that people have had better luck
with? Tempest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
Make your life easier with all your friends=2C n=new-dp&icid=aolcom40va
nity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000010">Try it now.
_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail anywhere. No map=2C no compass.
http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_anyw
here_122008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which is a good vacuum pump? |
Excellent reminder. Also, if that Rapco only had 300 hours on it, I hope
you kept the warranty card, as if I recall correctly they are warranted
for 1000. Also, if you are getting any oil around the pump it can cause
drag that will break the shear coupling.
Of the standard design, Tempest and Rapco are the best made. There are
fit issues with the oil separator necessary for wet pumps, and fit
issues with the Sigmatek piston pump. If you have the space to install
them correctly, I'm sure they are fine, but many aircraft don't have the
room.
Bruce Gray wrote:
> What most forget is that when a vacuum pump lets go, it will blow dirt
> and debris upstream of the pump, fowling the hose and regulator. It's
> important to flush all the hoses and replace all the filter elements
> after a pump failure. Each vacuum instrument usually has a filter
> behind its inlet that should be cleaned also. Failure to clean the
> system will result in the new pumps first breath of air being full of
> dirt and soot, not good for the long life of the new pump.
>
> If you want a vacuum pump that will last to TBO of your engine, take a
> look at the wet vacuum pump.
>
>
>
> Bruce
>
> www.Glasair.org <http://www.glasair.org/>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Knicholas2(at)aol.com
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 13, 2008 12:18 AM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
>
> I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in 300
> hours flight time. Is there another brand that people have had
> better luck with? Tempest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A
> Auburn, WA
>
> * *
>
> *=====================================================
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Which is a good vacuum pump? |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
What is a vacuum pump? :-)))
____________________________________________________________
Visa, MasterCard, AMEX & Discover. Compare Offers & Apply Online. Click here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2Oq356sqR3OxPB2KH3LpHhY23qjTKIhfOV9hY1DjOJLUHof/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Finch" <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Which is a good vacuum pump? |
Dump the pump. Use solid-state gyros and a backup alternator!
Ralph Finch
Davis, CA
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 9:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in 300 hours flight
time. Is there another brand that people have had better luck with?
Tempest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
Thanks!
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Riffel" <riffeljl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Flight Test Plan - Thanks. |
My thanks to all those who reviewed my flight test plan. While most of
the suggestions were already incorporated in my plan, there were a couple
good ideas (like reminding me to keep the climb-out very shallow for
cooling).
My plan of making my ground crew "manage" the flight worked Very Well for
me. He was responsible for prompting me and recording all the engine data,
reminding me when to land (when my 30 minutes expired - or if my CHTs got
above 425) and pulling/cutting me out of the plane in an emergency. Because
he did all the logging, all I had to do was fly. My mission was to
concentrate on flying: basic handling and try 2 stalls (clean and 20%
flaps). The Chase crews jobs was simply to keep me close/far enough from
the airport, to look me over (no fluids or flapping parts), do a speed check
with me, and to mark the crash site for Ground/Emergency if I went down.
Everyone understood chatter was to be kept to a minimum.
The RV-7A flew exactly as advertised and how I expected it to. It's Very
Quick and it's light on the controls. It is pretty pitch sensitive. The
landing was easy - actually a "greaser". The only unexpected development was
the noise. With no upholstery/carpet and only bare metal at this stage, it's
LOUD in there blasting around the pattern at 75% power. I guess I should've
expected that sitting in a metal can next to a no-muffler exhaust. Even my
ANR headsets didn't help enough. I may stick some carpet in there before I
fly it again to see how much it helps.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Test Plan - Thanks. |
Did you have time in an RV before you flew this?
Ron Lee
The RV-7A flew exactly as advertised and how I expected it to.
It's Very Quick and it's light on the controls. It is pretty pitch
sensitive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which is a good vacuum pump? |
Lets see here...spend multiple thousands of dollars on solid state stuff
and more thousands on EFIS to replace a $200 pump and $600 gyro. Then
spend another grand for separate alternator, battery and essential bus
to have totally separate systems as required for IFR. Always easy to
spend other's money. ;-)
Ralph Finch wrote:
> Dump the pump. Use solid-state gyros and a backup alternator!
>
> Ralph Finch
> Davis, CA
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Knicholas2(at)aol.com
> *Sent:* Friday, December 12, 2008 9:18 PM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
>
> I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in 300
> hours flight time. Is there another brand that people have had
> better luck with? Tempest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A
> Auburn, WA
>
>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Finch" <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Which is a good vacuum pump? |
Let's see...fly around with unreliable vacuum pumps with a history of
repeated failures...or use modern equipment to make flying easier and safer.
No brainer to me! Always easy to spend my money on the better choice :-)
:-)
RF
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
Lets see here...spend multiple thousands of dollars on solid state stuff and
more thousands on EFIS to replace a $200 pump and $600 gyro. Then spend
another grand for separate alternator, battery and essential bus to have
totally separate systems as required for IFR. Always easy to spend other's
money. ;-)
Ralph Finch wrote:
Dump the pump. Use solid-state gyros and a backup alternator!
Ralph Finch
Davis, CA
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 9:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in 300 hours flight
time. Is there another brand that people have had better luck with?
Tempest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
Thanks!
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which is a good vacuum pump? |
A little snippy there Finch. Actually I've been flying for forty years
and have had only one vac pump failure and that was in VFR conditions
which is what I'm rated for. Nothing unsafe there. Believe it or not,
there's actually some of us out here who don't have unlimited funds, as
apparently you do, who are grateful to be able to just build and fly a
machine with older technology. But if I made a habit of bungling into
IFR I'd probably make some changes in my system, but I don't, so I
agree with Kelly; why spend a bunch of money on a system I don't need?
Frankly, I'd rather spend my limited flying funds on avgas rather than
an expensive system that I don't need...or want.
Chuck
RV9A 250 hours (sold)
RV10 two months to completion
From: Ralph Finch
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 6:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
Let's see...fly around with unreliable vacuum pumps with a history of
repeated failures...or use modern equipment to make flying easier and
safer. No brainer to me! Always easy to spend my money on the better
choice :-) :-)
RF
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:45 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
Lets see here...spend multiple thousands of dollars on solid state
stuff and more thousands on EFIS to replace a $200 pump and $600 gyro.
Then spend another grand for separate alternator, battery and essential
bus to have totally separate systems as required for IFR. Always easy
to spend other's money. ;-)
Ralph Finch wrote:
Dump the pump. Use solid-state gyros and a backup alternator!
Ralph Finch
Davis, CA
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 9:18 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in 300
hours flight time. Is there another brand that people have had better
luck with? Tempest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
Thanks!
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which is a good vacuum pump? |
I flew IFR for 20 years with two vacuum gyros, powered by venturis. They
make a vacuum pump look extremely reliable. These days it is easy to
have a setup with only one vacuum gyro and two electric for not much
more money. Losing only one gyro in IMC shouldn't cause a competent
pilot to even break a sweat. Certainly less of an issue than losing a
glass panel in IMC.
Chuck Weyant wrote:
> A little snippy there Finch. Actually I've been flying for forty
> years and have had only one vac pump failure and that was in VFR
> conditions which is what I'm rated for. Nothing unsafe there.
> Believe it or not, there's actually some of us out here who don't have
> unlimited funds, as apparently you do, who are grateful to be able to
> just build and fly a machine with older technology. But if I made a
> habit of bungling into IFR I'd probably make some changes in my
> system, but I don't, so I agree with Kelly; why spend a bunch of money
> on a system I don't need? Frankly, I'd rather spend my limited flying
> funds on avgas rather than an expensive system that I don't need...or
> want.
>
> Chuck
> RV9A 250 hours (sold)
> RV10 two months to completion
>
>
> F*rom:* Ralph Finch
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 13, 2008 6:53 PM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
>
> Let's see...fly around with unreliable vacuum pumps with a history of
> repeated failures...or use modern equipment to make flying easier and
> safer. No brainer to me! Always easy to spend my money on the better
> choice :-) :-)
>
> RF
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly
> McMullen
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:45 PM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
>
> Lets see here...spend multiple thousands of dollars on solid state
> stuff and more thousands on EFIS to replace a $200 pump and $600
> gyro. Then spend another grand for separate alternator, battery
> and essential bus to have totally separate systems as required for
> IFR. Always easy to spend other's money. ;-)
>
> Ralph Finch wrote:
>> Dump the pump. Use solid-state gyros and a backup alternator!
>>
>> Ralph Finch
>> Davis, CA
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
>> *Knicholas2(at)aol.com
>> *Sent:* Friday, December 12, 2008 9:18 PM
>> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
>>
>> I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in 300
>> hours flight time. Is there another brand that people have
>> had better luck with? Tempest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Kim Nicholas
>> RV9A
>> Auburn, WA
>>
>>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> *
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi
I want to use Van's tank sealant to paint a rusted steel tank removed from
a welder.- Pinholes were discovered after it was sandblasted.- What is
the best thinner to thin the sealant to a paintable consistency.- I curre
ntly have lacquer thinner and toluene.
-
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Wings
N497GS reserved
Carlsbad, NM
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Karatsonyi <mkaratsonyi(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Which is a good vacuum pump? |
i have just started my empenage and wanted to know what everyone is using f
or primer?
From: chuck(at)chuckdirect.comTo: rv-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV-List: W
hich is a good vacuum pump?Date: Sat=2C 13 Dec 2008 19:50:01 -0800
A little snippy there Finch. Actually I've been flying for forty years and
have had only one vac pump failure and that was in VFR conditions which is
what I'm rated for. Nothing unsafe there. Believe it or not=2C there's a
ctually some of us out here who don't have unlimited funds=2C as apparently
you do=2C who are grateful to be able to just build and fly a machine with
older technology. But if I made a habit of bungling into IFR I'd probabl
y make some changes in my system=2C but I don't=2C so I agree with Kelly=3B
why spend a bunch of money on a system I don't need? Frankly=2C I'd rathe
r spend my limited flying funds on avgas rather than an expensive system th
at I don't need...or want.
Chuck
RV9A 250 hours (sold)
RV10 two months to completion
From: Ralph Finch
Sent: Saturday=2C December 13=2C 2008 6:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
Let's see...fly around with unreliable vacuum pumps with a history of repea
ted failures...or use modern equipment to make flying easier and safer. No
brainer to me! Always easy to spend my money on the better choice :-) :-)
RF
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullenSent: Saturday=2C December 13=2C 2008
4:45 PMTo: rv-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV-List: Which is a good vacuu
m pump?
Lets see here...spend multiple thousands of dollars on solid state stuff an
d more thousands on EFIS to replace a $200 pump and $600 gyro. Then spend a
nother grand for separate alternator=2C battery and essential bus to have t
otally separate systems as required for IFR. Always easy to spend other's
money. =3B-) Ralph Finch wrote:
Dump the pump. Use solid-state gyros and a backup alternator!
Ralph Finch
Davis=2C CA
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Knicholas2(at)aol.comSent: Friday=2C December 12=2C 200
8 9:18 PMTo: rv-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum
pump?
I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in 300 hours flight
time. Is there another brand that people have had better luck with? Tem
pest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
Thanks!
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn=2C WA
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chr
ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
_________________________________________________________________
Suspicious message? There=92s an alert for that.
http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broa
d2_122008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro seal paint |
MEK works great to thin proseal. It's nasty stuff though so use proper
precautions.
Jeff Point
RV-6/ RV-8/ RLU-1
Milwaukee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro seal paint |
Sherman Butler wrote:
> Hi
> I want to use Van's tank sealant to paint a rusted steel tank removed
> from a welder. Pinholes were discovered after it was sandblasted.
> What is the best thinner to thin the sealant to a paintable
> consistency. I currently have lacquer thinner and toluene.
>
I found the data sheet online which said it contained toluene. I figure
that would work.
Linn
>
>
>
>
> Sherman Butler
> RV-7a Wings
> N497GS reserved
> Carlsbad, NM
>
>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Instrument Panel - Powercoat Thickness? |
Dear Listers,
I laid out the RV-8 panel in a CAD program and had experimentalair.com cut a clear
Lexan mockup for fitting. I highly recommend using a Lexan mockup first as
its a lot cheaper and it really helps to be able to see through the panel to
locate brackets, etc. Also, Nick Burns over at ExperimpntalAir has be *super*
to work with on this project. I've been emailing him DXF versions of the panel
and he made a number of suggestions that I incorporated into the CAD drawing.
I sent him the final CAD version Wednesday and he cut the Lexan panel on
a FloJet and I received it Friday. It's a work of art!
So here's my question. On the hole cutouts, I used a micrometer to measure each
instrument, then used these exact measurements in the CAD drawing. I added
.005" to both X and Y to allow for easier sliding in and out of the instrument
which has turned out to be exactly the right amount. BUT, there's no powercoating
on the panel yet. I'm planning on a simi-flat black coating. What is the
thickness of the powercoating? How much should I increase the cutout size
to account for the coating and still have the nice, tight, fit that I have now?
Here's a link to my Builder's Log for anyone that is interested in checking out
more on the project:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=dralle&project=619&category=0
Thanks for the feedback,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which is a good vacuum pump? |
"to have totally separate systems as required for IFR"
You do not need separate systems for IFR.
Furthermore, a dynon is about the same cost as an attitude indicator, DG, turn
coordinator, vacuum pump, regulator, filter, hoses, etc.
Yes, vacuum works, and is reasonably reliable...but it's time to move on. I grew
up flying steam, and have no problem with a six pack of instruments. But,
for building a new aircraft, it really makes no sense going vacuum considering
the prices for an experimental EFIS. Honestly, I think vacuum is MORE complex
and in the end MORE expensive for overhauls. (Mine are already in need of overhaul
due to very mild aerobatics)
Paul Besing
________________________________
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 5:44:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
Lets see here...spend multiple thousands of dollars on solid state
stuff and more thousands on EFIS to replace a $200 pump and $600 gyro.
Then spend another grand for separate alternator, battery and essential
bus to have totally separate systems as required for IFR. Always easy
to spend other's money.;-)
Ralph Finch wrote:
Dump the
pump. Use solid-state gyros and a backup alternator!
Ralph
Finch
Davis, CA
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 9:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in 300
hours flight time. Is there another brand that people have had better
luck with? Tempest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
Thanks!
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro seal paint |
Sherman,
The manufacturer recommends thinning with Toluene. Lacquer thinner is 95% Toluene.
I had the lacquer thinner on hand, so I always used that. I've built 3 sets
of tanks (RV8A/RV6A/RV9A) and none had leaks.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Sun, 12/14/08, Sherman Butler wrote:
> From: Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Pro seal paint
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, December 14, 2008, 12:01 AM
> Hi
> I want to use Van's tank sealant to paint a rusted
> steel tank removed from a welder. Pinholes were discovered
> after it was sandblasted. What is the best thinner to thin
> the sealant to a paintable consistency. I currently have
> lacquer thinner and toluene.
>
>
> Sherman Butler
> RV-7a Wings
> N497GS reserved
> Carlsbad, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV/Rocket Steering Link |
Gabe,
I have just installed my third Steering Lind in over 1500 hours on
my RV8. 90% of my take offs and landings are on grass fields, so I
think that 500 hours apiece on grass is pretty good service life.
I find that it is much more responsive than the chain and spring
arrangement that is standard Vans equipment, also,
it is much quieter and than the chain arrangement that rattles. Good
luck.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: ferrerg(at)comcast.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 11:20 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV/Rocket Steering Link
I am considering replacing the Van's tail wheel steering chains in my
RV6 with an "RV/Rocket Steering Link".
Please, I would appreciate any advice from the listers.
I'm specially concerned about landing performance under strong cross
winds and maintenance issues.
Thank you
--
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX
South Florida's Treasure Coast
email: ferrerg(at)comcast.net
cell: 561 758 8894
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which is a good vacuum pump? |
Yes, you can choose to operate without independent systems in an
experimental aircraft. It is your hide and your unsuspecting
passengers. It is illegal in certificated aircraft, for very good
reasons. See Part 23.1309. Most builders aspire to build aircraft safer
than certified spam cans.
A Dynon is not truly independent, as it depends on the electrical buss.
It's backup battery may or may not be satisfactory. Electrical failures
occur at least as often as vacuum failures.
If an EFIS fails and you don't have some steam gauges, you have no
backup, so you are going to need at least an attitude gyro and airspeed
and altimeter anyway. So the cost comparison is really vacuum pump and
accessories and attitude gyro, vs a second, totally independent
separately powered EFIS.
Or you can go the least expensive way and get what you list below, no
EFIS and buy one or two of the gyros as electric and remaining vacuum.
Less than $1 per flight hour to budget vacuum pump replacement every 500
hours. You pays your money and makes your choices. Just don't represent
EFIS from anyone as same cost. It isn't.
Paul Besing wrote:
> "to have totally separate systems as required for IFR"
>
> You do not need separate systems for IFR.
>
> Furthermore, a dynon is about the same cost as an attitude indicator,
> DG, turn coordinator, vacuum pump, regulator, filter, hoses, etc.
>
> Yes, vacuum works, and is reasonably reliable...but it's time to move
> on. I grew up flying steam, and have no problem with a six pack of
> instruments. But, for building a new aircraft, it really makes no
> sense going vacuum considering the prices for an experimental EFIS.
> Honestly, I think vacuum is MORE complex and in the end MORE expensive
> for overhauls. (Mine are already in need of overhaul due to very mild
> aerobatics)
>
> Paul Besing
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Kelly McMullen
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 13, 2008 5:44:58 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
>
> Lets see here...spend multiple thousands of dollars on solid state
> stuff and more thousands on EFIS to replace a $200 pump and $600 gyro.
> Then spend another grand for separate alternator, battery and
> essential bus to have totally separate systems as required for IFR.
> Always easy to spend other's money. ;-)
>
> Ralph Finch wrote:
>> Dump the pump. Use solid-state gyros and a backup alternator!
>>
>> Ralph Finch
>> Davis, CA
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
>> *Knicholas2(at)aol.com
>> *Sent:* Friday, December 12, 2008 9:18 PM
>> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
>>
>> I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in 300
>> hours flight time. Is there another brand that people have had
>> better luck with? Tempest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Kim Nicholas
>> RV9A
>> Auburn, WA
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> *
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Judge" <bjudge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | hybrid autopilot |
Hey Folks:
I just installed a pitch axis only Dynon autopilot to compliment my Trutrak
roll axis only pictoral pilot.
When I was building trutrak was the only game in town and I prewired for a
trutrak pitch servo which I did to the point where the connectors with
proper pinouts were installed and tucked away for when I wanted to spend
1500-2000 to be lazy and let a machine hold altitude. The pictoral pilo
tdisplays a turn and bank completely independent from the EFIS and is part
of my redundancy scheme. In 330 hrs I became very used to flying on roll
axis autopilot with my hand on the manual trip knob to hold altitude and as
such I never saw fit to blow the cash.
Flash forward and dynon starts making noise about having an autopilot.
After a few conversations with them I find out that I'll have to blow more
than 1500 on 2 servos since theirs is different than the TT and I'll also
have to rethink my reduncancy scheme... Then I find out that you can just
install a pitch servo for only about $800. Adding fuel to the fire AIG
offers me a 10% discount for a "technically advanced aircraft" which with
my existing other equipment(moving map, IFR cert GPS, fuel totalizer,
terrain...) I would qualify for if I had a 2 axis autopilot... so in the
typical aviation fashion I saved $200 by spending $800.
The install was pretty easy, I was able to bridge both the control wheel
disconnects into the one existing switch with no adverse effects. One long
button press engages roll and pitch, slighty shorter and you get roll only,
short disengages both. Since I was leveraging off my trutrak pre wire the
wire I used to the servo(DSAB included) was not twisted pair as they
reccomend but it still works fine. I took a short flight this afternoon and
it seems to work fine but I'll need to do some cross country to really get a
feel for it. I've see some posts on Vans Airforce complaing of an install
that oscillates in pitch with growing excursion magnitudes. If this is the
case they should be able to fix it with a firmware upgrade.
Bill Judge
N84WJ
330 Hrs.
rv-8.blogspot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which is a good vacuum pump? |
In 15 years of flying, over 2000 hours, and flying 20,000 hour freight airplanes
with things breaking all the time, I've never once had a total electrical failure..and
trust me..the garbage I was flying, if any rats nest like was in the
airplanes I flew will work, a properly crafted experimental electrical system
will not fail. Build it right, and it will last indefinitely. Alternator failure,
ok, but the chances in IMC, and having to stay IMC longer than an hour
for the battery backup, then you shouldn't be flying anyway. RV's are fine for
flying light IMC, but if there is no VFR within an hour or two in an RV, there
is some SERIOUS weather in your area. Declare emergency, get the nearest
approach, and done. Again, the chances are so slim, I would have no problem in
trusting a dynon with a backup battery.
Second, have a trio autopilot, coupled to a panel mounted handheld, and you will
have all the IFR capability you need in an emergency. I've tested this. Flew
an ILS approach, on autopilot, with no attitude indicator, in IMC. Just kicked
off the autopilot when I was out of the clouds.
My small panel RV-4 has plenty of reduntantcy. Vacuum gyros go, I still have autopilot
coupled to Garmin 396, and an electric turn coordinator. Build the electrical
system right, and you have no issues if your EFIS fails. But again,
how many Dynon or similar EFIS just quits working? Short of an electrical problem
that fries the thing, I really doubt one will just quick working on it's
own without poor wiring being the culprit.
If I were to keep my airplane for a long time (it's for sale now), I would put
in a dynon, and fly IFR all day without any concerns.
YMMV.
Paul Besing
________________________________
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 5:31:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
Yes, you can choose to operate without independent systems in an
experimental aircraft. It is your hide and your unsuspecting
passengers. It is illegal in certificated aircraft, for very good
reasons. See Part 23.1309. Most builders aspire to build aircraft
safer than certified spam cans.
A Dynon is not truly independent, as it depends on the electrical buss.
It's backup battery may or may not be satisfactory. Electrical failures
occur at least as often as vacuum failures.
If an EFIS fails and you don't have some steam gauges, you have no
backup, so you are going to need at least an attitude gyro and airspeed
and altimeter anyway. So the cost comparison is really vacuum pump and
accessories and attitude gyro, vs a second, totally independent
separately powered EFIS.
Or you can go the least expensive way and get what you list below, no
EFIS and buy one or two of the gyros as electric and remaining vacuum.
Less than $1 per flight hour to budget vacuum pump replacement every
500 hours. You pays your money and makes your choices. Just don't
represent EFIS from anyone as same cost. It isn't.
Paul Besing wrote:
"to have totally separate systems as required for IFR"
You do not need separate systems for IFR.
Furthermore, a dynon is about the same cost as an attitude indicator,
DG, turn coordinator, vacuum pump, regulator, filter, hoses, etc.
Yes, vacuum works, and is reasonably reliable...but it's time to move
on. I grew up flying steam, and have no problem with a six pack of
instruments. But, for building a new aircraft, it really makes no
sense going vacuum considering the prices for an experimental EFIS.
Honestly, I think vacuum is MORE complex and in the end MORE expensive
for overhauls. (Mine are already in need of overhaul due to very mild
aerobatics)
Paul Besing
________________________________
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Saturday,
December 13, 2008 5:44:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List:
Which is a good vacuum pump?
Lets see here...spend multiple thousands of dollars on solid state
stuff and more thousands on EFIS to replace a $200 pump and $600 gyro.
Then spend another grand for separate alternator, battery and essential
bus to have totally separate systems as required for IFR. Always easy
to spend other's money.;-)
Ralph Finch wrote:
Dump
the
pump. Use solid-state gyros and a backup alternator!
Ralph
Finch
Davis,
CA
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 9:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Which is a good vacuum pump?
I am about to replace the second Rapco dry vacuum pump in
300
hours flight time. Is there another brand that people have had better
luck with? Tempest? AAA? Sigma-Tek?
Thanks!
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which is a good vacuum pump? |
It doesn't take a total failure. All you need is one little component
to let out some electrical smoke in the cockpit while you are on the
gauges and you will be faced with no electrics without risk of
additional fire. Argue all you want, or just make your choice. Just
don't lead others blindly down the same risky path. I've seen too many
electrical failures in 30+ years of flying and wrenching on planes to
totally rely on electrics. A number of Beechcraft are facing an AD right
now to replace most of their circuit breakers that on rare occasion leak
smoke. So there goes your "will not fail" argument.
KM
A&P/IA
Paul Besing wrote:
> In 15 years of flying, over 2000 hours, and flying 20,000 hour freight
> airplanes with things breaking all the time, I've never once had a
> total electrical failure..and trust me..the garbage I was flying, if
> any rats nest like was in the airplanes I flew will work, a properly
> crafted experimental electrical system will not fail. *
> *
> *======
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which is a good vacuum pump? |
All of which shows you have no appreciation of what happens when you get
electric smoke in the cockpit. You don't just loose one item, unless you
have a death wish. You kill the master. Period. An MD-11 failed to do
that, the crew couldn't get it on to an airfield quickly enough, and the
aircraft was lost with all persons on board into the Atlantic. You can
gamble with isolating the problem, at your own peril.
You don't have to justify your desired system to anyone but yourself. A
little common sense will tell you to have at least two completely
independent electric systems if you choose to operate IFR. No one is
going to make you do it. Even with dual electrics, you don't solve the
electrical fire scenario. Yes they are relatively rare. Is your life
worth that gamble? Just food for thought.
linn Walters wrote:
>
> Sorry folks, but I'm starting to enjoy this!
>> It doesn't take a total failure. All you need is one little
>> component to let out some electrical smoke in the cockpit while you
>> are on the gauges and you will be faced with no electrics without
>> risk of additional fire.
> Actually, once the magic smoke gets loose, the only thing you lose is
> that little box.
>> Argue all you want, or just make your choice. Just don't lead others
>> blindly down the same risky path. I've seen too many electrical
>> failures in 30+ years of flying and wrenching on planes to totally
>> rely on electrics.
> You may be a pretty good wrench, but I'm getting the feeling you don't
> know squat about "electrics".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
| Subject: | Sucking Air or Pushing 'Trons |
This is one of those subjects where personal preferences determine the outc
ome. I spent many hours researching the instrumentation options for my -8A.
The real issue was not lack of options, but too many available choices. In
order to get a logical handle on the subject, I went through a formal deci
sion process that relied both on data and gut feel. In the end, I am comfor
table with my choices - they may, in many folks minds, not be optimum, but
they were my conscious choices.
1. No vacuum pump. Not so much a fear of reliability as much as a des
ire to exploit new technology.
2. Redundant electrical sources. Main alternator, SD-8, and battery b
ackup(s).
3. IFR capability - including ILS.
4. Redundant attitude displays.
5. Back up altimeter, VSI and airspeed.
6. GPS and VOR nav capability.
7. Backup comms.
Ended up with AFS 3500, SL30, ICOM backup, panel-mounted 496, PMA7000B, Tru
Trac ADI II and Vans AS, VSI and Alt.
Works for me.
Paul Valovich
N192NM - Canopy and Cowling
Will fly Saturday - just don't know which Saturday that will be.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV/Rocket Steering link |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
You can get the steering link from my web store (in the U.S.) or from
Wayne Hadath (in Canada). Shipping is a bit easier if you get it in
your country, but not a big deal.
Wayne can be reached at whadath(at)rogers.com
I know of no problems with the steering link use. The entire tailwheel
assembly requires periodic inspection and lubrication, but if you do
that, you should have no problems.
Thx,
Vince Frazier
Flyboy Accessories
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
www.flyboyaccessories.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <scottam65(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 / 6a kits for sale |
RV-6 / 6a kits for sale.
Empennage: Complete except for fiberglass tips. Includes electric elevator
trim kit. All parts are alodined and primed with Marhyde primer.
Wings & Phlogiston Spar: Both skeletons fully assembled. Top skins
riveted. Both tanks are complete and sealed. Flaps and ailerons complete,
but not fitted. Includes electric aileron trim kit. All parts are alodined
and primed with Deft epoxy primer (Mil-P-23377G).
Both kits are the pre-punched versions purchased in 1997 & 1998 by myself.
Construction is excellent. Preview plans and Orndorff videos are included
for both kits.
Detailed photos are available upon request.
Must sell. The first $3750 takes it all. Buyer arranges transportation.
If all items were purchased separately the price would be more than $6500
for the unassembled kits.
Regards,
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
716-510-0318- cell
scottam65(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Which is a good vacuum pump? |
I'm late to the discussion but WET is the best IMHO. Of course you need air-oil
sep. It will weigh more over all. Some claim oil migration can get to gyros
and cause a problem. I have not seen that but I guess it could happen. There are
ways to prevent that. The point is WET will last and not fail unexpectedly
like DRY pumps.
New Dry pump designs look better than the traditional black can design? Just
get a spruce AC catalog. I have not used a Vac pump in years with the EFIS. It's
about money. Check the warranty.
If reliability is critical to you than plan preventative replacement. Dry pump
works fine, but those vane's wear and get unstable when they get short, causing
catastrophic failure. Do preventative maintence/inspections. The dry pumps
are delicate and need to be handled carefully. Cooling is critical as is the
overall installation. Restrictive fittings, hoses and improper or missing filters
and regulators are sure fire ways to mess your pump up.
Educate your self on all the DO's and DON'T of installation and operation of
any Vac pump. A lot of premature failures are due to abuse, installation error
or operation issues.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Daus" <dauscj(at)nb.net> |
| Subject: | Instrument Panel - Powercoat Thickness? |
Matt,
Powdercoat guy here, recommended thickness is .0015" to .003" per side. We
usually get .002" to .003" when we spray. Just ask the powdercoater to run
his finger or something that will "brush off" the powder around the inside
of the holes before he cures the powder. Doing this will brush off the
powder and will take most if not all of the thickness away.
Chuck
RV6A FWF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 1:07 PM
Subject: RV-List: Instrument Panel - Powercoat Thickness?
Dear Listers,
I laid out the RV-8 panel in a CAD program and had experimentalair.com cut a
clear Lexan mockup for fitting. I highly recommend using a Lexan mockup
first as its a lot cheaper and it really helps to be able to see through the
panel to locate brackets, etc. Also, Nick Burns over at ExperimpntalAir has
be *super* to work with on this project. I've been emailing him DXF
versions of the panel and he made a number of suggestions that I
incorporated into the CAD drawing. I sent him the final CAD version
Wednesday and he cut the Lexan panel on a FloJet and I received it Friday.
It's a work of art!
So here's my question. On the hole cutouts, I used a micrometer to measure
each instrument, then used these exact measurements in the CAD drawing. I
added .005" to both X and Y to allow for easier sliding in and out of the
instrument which has turned out to be exactly the right amount. BUT,
there's no powercoating on the panel yet. I'm planning on a simi-flat black
coating. What is the thickness of the powercoating? How much should I
increase the cutout size to account for the coating and still have the nice,
tight, fit that I have now?
Here's a link to my Builder's Log for anyone that is interested in checking
out more on the project:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=dralle&project=619&category
0
Thanks for the feedback,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Strobe and E.I. UGB-16 Issue |
| From: | cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com |
I am posting this for a friend.....He can not send, only receive e-mails.
" I'm having a problem with Whelen strobe interference on my E.I.
UGB-16 engine analyzer showing up on number?two cylinder. The display
and bar graph jump between 190 and -300 deg F. When I turn off the
strobes the problem disappears. The 2?power packs are mounted on the
wingtips and are on a separate breakers for the E.I. and strobes. The
interference causes the E.I. to trip its 5 amp breaker taking along the
engine instruments and flap circuit with it.
If after checking all the T/C connections from number 2 I still have problems can
anyone suggest any ideas ?
Thanks,
Doug Gardner? RV-8A??? N456DG?? 101 hrs
Palm Harbor/Lakeland Fl
Douglas P. Gardner
Fireye Regional Sales Manager/Southeast
Palm Harbor, Florida ?34683
(727) 784-2600 Fax (727) 785-4767
Email : seabearfl(at)netzero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe and E.I. UGB-16 Issue |
Off the top of my head..........=0A=0ADo not run any-wires that supply po
wer near a wire used for an instrument reading. =0A=0AFor example-on my f
irewall I have power wires going through in one area and-wires used for s
ensors in another area seperated by about 2 feet.=0A=0AI am guesing that so
mewhere along the way the strobe wires are to close to other non-power wire
s.......?=0A=0AScott RV-8a=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______________________________
_=0AFrom: "cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com" <cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com
=0ASent: Monday, December 15, 2008 2:45:08 PM=0ASubject: RV-List: Strobe an
d E.I. UGB-16 Issue=0A=0A=0AI am posting this for a friend.....He can not s
end, only receive e-mails.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A" I'm having a problem with Whelen
strobe interference on my E.I. UGB-16 engine analyzer showing up on number
-two cylinder. The display and bar graph jump between 190 and -300 deg F.
When I turn off the strobes the problem disappears. The 2-power packs ar
e mounted on the wingtips and are on a separate breakers for the E.I. and s
trobes. The interference causes the E.I. to trip its 5 amp breaker taking a
long the engine instruments and flap circuit with it.=0AIf after checking a
ll the T/C connections from number 2 I still have problems can anyone sugge
st any ideas ?=0AThanks,=0ADoug Gardner- RV-8A--- N456DG-- 101
hrs=0APalm Harbor/Lakeland Fl=0A=0ADouglas P. Gardner=0AFireye Regional Sal
es Manager/Southeast=0APalm Harbor, Florida -34683=0A(727) 784-2600 Fax (
727) 785-4767=0AEmail : seabearfl(at)netzero.com=0A=0A=0A_____________________
___________=0AListen to 350+ music, sports, & news radio stations ' inclu
ding songs for the holidays ' FREE while you browse. Start Listening Now!
=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe and E.I. UGB-16 Issue |
| From: | cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com |
I will say this for him.......it was fine for the first 100 hours ??
I am gonna take a look at it this weekend with him but will take all suggest
ions=C2- :)
Sal
-----Original Message-----
From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 6:38 pm
Subject: Re: RV-List: Strobe and E.I. UGB-16 Issue
Off the top of my head..........
=C2-
Do not run any=C2-wires that supply power near a wire used for an instrume
nt reading.
=C2-
For example=C2-on my firewall I have power wires going through in one area
and=C2-wires used for sensors in another area seperated by about 2 feet.
=C2-
I am guesing that somewhere along the way the strobe wires are to close to o
ther non-power wires.......?
=C2-
=C2-
Scott RV-8a
From: "cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com" <cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 2:45:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: Strobe and E.I. UGB-16 Issue
I am posting this for a friend.....He can not send, only receive e-mails.
" I'm having a problem with Whelen strobe interference on my E.I. UGB-16 eng
ine analyzer showing up on number=C2-two cylinder. The display and bar gra
ph jump between 190 and -300 deg F. When I turn off the strobes the problem
disappears. The 2=C2-power packs are mounted on the wingtips and are on a
separate breakers for the E.I. and strobes. The interference causes the20E.I
. to trip its 5 amp breaker taking along the engine instruments and flap cir
cuit with it.
If after checking all the T/C connections from number 2 I still have problem
s can anyone suggest any ideas ?
Thanks,
Doug Gardner=C2- RV-8A=C2-=C2-=C2- N456DG=C2-=C2- 101 hrs
Palm Harbor/Lakeland Fl
Douglas P. Gardner
Fireye Regional Sales Manager/Southeast
Palm Harbor, Florida =C2-34683
(727) 784-2600 Fax (727) 785-4767
Email : seabearfl(at)netzero.com
Listen to 350+ music, sports, & news radio stations =93 including song
s for the holidays =93 FREE while you browse. Start Listening Now!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe and E.I. UGB-16 Issue |
Interesting. I have a similar issue with #2 EGT only on same system.
Sometimes it is fine, othertimes it jumps around, occasionally drops off
line. Strobe switch is next to UBG-16 power switch. However this only
developed after 150 hours. Next time it happens will try turning strobes
off.
cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com wrote:
> I will say this for him.......it was fine for the first 100 hours ??
>
> I am gonna take a look at it this weekend with him but will take all
> suggestions :)
>
> Sal
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 6:38 pm
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Strobe and E.I. UGB-16 Issue
>
> Off the top of my head..........
>
> Do not run any wires that supply power near a wire used for an
> instrument reading.
>
> For example on my firewall I have power wires going through in one
> area and wires used for sensors in another area seperated by about 2 feet.
>
> I am guesing that somewhere along the way the strobe wires are to
> close to other non-power wires.......?
>
>
> Scott RV-8a
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* "cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com " >
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Monday, December 15, 2008 2:45:08 PM
> *Subject:* RV-List: Strobe and E.I. UGB-16 Issue
>
> I am posting this for a friend.....He can not send, only receive e-mails.
>
>
> " I'm having a problem with Whelen strobe interference on my E.I.
> UGB-16 engine analyzer showing up on number two cylinder. The display
> and bar graph jump between 190 and -300 deg F. When I turn off the
> strobes the problem disappears. The 2 power packs are mounted on the
> wingtips and are on a separate breakers for the E.I. and strobes. The
> interference causes the E.I. to trip its 5 amp breaker taking along
> the engine instruments and flap circuit with it.
> If after checking all the T/C connections from number 2 I still have
> problems can anyone suggest any ideas ?
> Thanks,
> Doug Gardner RV-8A N456DG 101 hrs
> Palm Harbor/Lakeland Fl
>
> Douglas P. Gardner
> Fireye Reg ional Sales Manager/Southeast
> Palm Harbor, Florida 34683
> (727) 784-2600 Fax (727) 785-4767
> Email : seabearfl(at)netzero.com
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Listen to 350+ music, sports, & news radio stations including songs
> for the holidays FREE while you browse. Start Listening Now
> <http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlweusdown00000013>!
> < /font>
>
> <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List>
> *
>
>
> ==========
>
> ,courier" size="2">* <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List>*http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> ==========
>
> 0and much much more:
>
> or?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>
> ==========
>
> p://forums.matronics.com
>
> ==========
>
> *
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Listen to 350+ music, sports, & news radio stations including songs
> for the holidays FREE while you browse. Start Listening Now
> <http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlweusdown00000013>!
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | What we did for panel redundancy |
| From: | jhnstniii(at)aol.com |
Listers--I'm not going to get into the argument, just share with you?what we did
and the logic we followed.
We set up our RV-6A for IFR as follows:
Vacuum attitude indicator and DG.
Electric turn coordinator/S-Tec 30 2-axis autopilot (ship's power only).
Electric back up attitude indicator?on right side of panel (ship's power only).
Replace vacuum pump (SigmaTek dry pump) every 500 hours.
Replace 60 amp alternator from Vans every 500 hours.
Garmin 430 panel mounted.
Garmin 496 on swing out mount near left side roll?bar with XM weather (ship's power
constantly charges battery with automatic battery back-up if power fails).??
The panel page on this unit is our final back-up, which Aviation Consumer
has demonstrated can keep you right side up?if you don't get too far out of whack.
Our theory: redundancy/multiple power sources plus periodic replacement of potential
failure items.
We haven't flown IFR yet so no real world data to share.
LeRoy Johnston/David White (Ohio)?RV-6A Esperanza 116.2 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What we did for panel redundancy |
Great combination of redundancy and planning, as well as a good mx plan. N
ice work. I've tested the 396 in IMC and it would function well as a last
resort, although a vacuum failure and an electrical failure on the same fl
ight is, well...=0A=0APaul Besing=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A___________________________
_____=0AFrom: "jhnstniii(at)aol.com" <jhnstniii(at)aol.com>=0ATo: rv-list@matroni
cs.com=0ASent: Monday, December 15, 2008 8:44:30 PM=0ASubject: RV-List: Wha
t we did for panel redundancy=0A=0AListers--I'm not going to get into the a
rgument, just share with you what we did and the logic we followed.=0A=0AWe
set up our RV-6A for IFR as follows:=0A=0AVacuum attitude indicator and DG
.=0A=0AElectric turn coordinator/S-Tec 30 2-axis autopilot (ship's power on
ly).=0A=0AElectric back up attitude indicator on right side of panel (ship'
s power only).=0A=0AReplace vacuum pump (SigmaTek dry pump) every 500 hours
.=0A=0AReplace 60 amp alternator from Vans every 500 hours.=0A=0AGarmin 430
panel mounted.=0A=0AGarmin 496 on swing out mount near left side roll bar
with XM weather (ship's power constantly charges battery with automatic bat
tery back-up if power fails). The panel page on this unit is our final ba
ck-up, which Aviation Consumer has demonstrated can keep you right side up
if you don't get too far out of whack. =0A=0AOur theory: redundancy/multipl
e power sources plus periodic replacement of potential failure items.=0A=0A
We haven't flown IFR yet so no real world data to share. =0A=0ALeRoy Johnst
on/David White (Ohio) RV-6A Esperanza 116.2 hours.=0A=0A=0A________________
________________=0AListen to 350+ music, sports, & news radio stations '
including songs for the holidays ' FREE while you browse. Start Listening
====0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Static System Assembly |
Dear List ...
I'm rebuilding my static system and am looking for "how did you do it"
suggestions.
Specifically:
How did you attach the tubing to the Van's static port rivet tails?
Glue, RTV or ... ?
Did any of you find a clamp that would work with such a small diameter and
short rivet tail?
What method does not work or will not hold together between condition
inspections?
Thanks, Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Static System Assembly |
Hey Jerry=2C
I bought some rivets with the same head but a longer grip and used a little
sealant and a zip tie. I didn't like that the vans rivets had such a shor
t shank to clamp to.
Paul Rice
RV8 Flying Siren
130 hours> From: jerry(at)mc.net> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV-List:
Static System Assembly> Date: Wed=2C 17 Dec 2008 12:37:31 -0600> > --> RV-
List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" > > Dear List ...>
I'm rebuilding my static system and am looking for "how did you do it" > s
uggestions.> > Specifically:> How did you attach the tubing to the Van's st
atic port rivet tails?> Glue=2C RTV or ... ?> > Did any of you find a clamp
that would work with such a small diameter and > short rivet tail?> > What
method does not work or will not hold together between condition > inspect
======================> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static System Assembly |
RV's Builders, I used a silicone and the rivets in the kit from Van's.
Is there any problem with using silicone on the aluminum skin or ribs?
Silicone works well for holding parts in place, however, will it effect
the skin over time? Thanks for any input.
Jim
RV9a
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Rice
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 2:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Static System Assembly
Hey Jerry,
I bought some rivets with the same head but a longer grip and used a
little sealant and a zip tie. I didn't like that the vans rivets had
such a short shank to clamp to.
Paul Rice
RV8 Flying Siren
130 hours
> From: jerry(at)mc.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Static System Assembly
> Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2008 12:37:31 -0600
>
>
> Dear List ...
> I'm rebuilding my static system and am looking for "how did you do
it"
> suggestions.
>
> Specifically:
> How did you attach the tubing to the Van's static port rivet tails?
> Glue, RTV or ... ?
>
> Did any of you find a clamp that would work with such a small
diameter and
> short rivet tail?
>
> What method does not work or will not hold together between
condition
> inspections?
> Thanks=======
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG.
12/17/2008 8:31 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Static System Assembly |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Hi Jim,
Just do not get it on the outside where the paint will go.
Jim
RV9-A
____________________________________________________________
Free information - Learn about Hardwood Floors. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2eFAXYnrR0Jzl1WeS2XDfc32K9qOBF9g4HRYoFMoEfgY5S7/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Static System Assembly |
It won't necessarily affect the skins, but if you use it externally it'll
likely make it near to impossible to ever get a paint job to stick to
it...even with it visibly cleaned. Silicone (or an product with silicone in
it) is a big no-no for external use on airplanes as it doesn't play nicely
with paint.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Fogarty at Lakes
& Leisure Realty
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 3:09 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static System Assembly
RV's Builders, I used a silicone and the rivets in the kit from Van's.
Is there any problem with using silicone on the aluminum skin or ribs?
Silicone works well for holding parts in place, however, will it effect the
skin over time? Thanks for any input.
Jim
RV9a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static System Assembly |
Not sure if they still sell them, but Cleveland tool makes some machined static
ports which are very nice. Just be sure and mount them to the OUTSIDE of the
skin...otherwise the static port will be caught in the boundary layer, and will
not be accurate..ask me how I know....
Paul Besing
________________________________
From: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 2:47:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Static System Assembly
It won't
necessarily affect the skins, but if you use it externally it'll likely make it
near to impossible to ever get a paint job to stick to it...even with it visibly
cleaned. Silicone (or an product with silicone in it) is a
big no-no for external use on airplanes as it doesn't play nicely with
paint.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static System Assembly
RV's Builders, I used a silicone and the rivets in the kit from Van's. Is there
any problem with using silicone on the aluminum skin or ribs? Silicone works
well for holding parts in place, however, will it effect the skin over time?
Thanks for any input.
Jim
RV9a
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Static System Assembly |
There are numerous paintable sealant/adhesives that can do the same kind of
job as the silicone-based ones. Proseal-like tank sealants, Lexel and
Sikaflex come to mind.
Regards,
Greg Young
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of SteinAir, Inc.
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 3:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Static System Assembly
It won't necessarily affect the skins, but if you use it externally it'll
likely make it near to impossible to ever get a paint job to stick to
it...even with it visibly cleaned. Silicone (or an product with silicone in
it) is a big no-no for external use on airplanes as it doesn't play nicely
with paint.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Fogarty at Lakes
& Leisure Realty
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static System Assembly
RV's Builders, I used a silicone and the rivets in the kit from Van's. Is
there any problem with using silicone on the aluminum skin or ribs?
Silicone works well for holding parts in place, however, will it effect the
skin over time? Thanks for any input.
Jim
RV9a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static System Assembly |
Stein, Thanks for the info. I appreciate your knowledge, I'm sorry I
didn't get to your shop last Saturday. I hope you had a good turn out
and that your business is busy. Good luck in 2009.
Jim
RV9a
----- Original Message -----
From: SteinAir, Inc.
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 3:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Static System Assembly
It won't necessarily affect the skins, but if you use it externally
it'll likely make it near to impossible to ever get a paint job to stick
to it...even with it visibly cleaned. Silicone (or an product with
silicone in it) is a big no-no for external use on airplanes as it
doesn't play nicely with paint.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Fogarty at
Lakes & Leisure Realty
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 3:09 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static System Assembly
RV's Builders, I used a silicone and the rivets in the kit from
Van's. Is there any problem with using silicone on the aluminum skin or
ribs? Silicone works well for holding parts in place, however, will it
effect the skin over time? Thanks for any input.
Jim
RV9a
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG.
12/17/2008 8:31 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static System Assembly |
I came up with a way to make a back-side fitting for
Van's static port. This permits use of a removable
fitting for plastic tubing to connect the static vent
plumbing. It's described in the EAA chapter 105
newsletter for April 2005, page 2:
http://www.eaa105.org/Newsletter/nl-200504.pdf
Mike Linse
Corvallis, OR
RV-6A (canopy, in the winter...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static System Assembly |
Hi Mike,
You have won the prize for an elegant solution to the static system plumbing
challenge. That's a clever approach. If it's OK I am going to use it for
my static hook-up. It also seems possible to drill a close fitting hole in
a light weight pipe cap, and expand the rivet into that cap then drive out
the center stem. Back it up with a little tank sealant.
Thanks, Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: <mikerv6a(at)ao.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Static System Assembly
>
> I came up with a way to make a back-side fitting for
> Van's static port. This permits use of a removable
> fitting for plastic tubing to connect the static vent
> plumbing. It's described in the EAA chapter 105
> newsletter for April 2005, page 2:
> http://www.eaa105.org/Newsletter/nl-200504.pdf
>
> Mike Linse
> Corvallis, OR
> RV-6A (canopy, in the winter...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Savage <bsavage22(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Static System Assembly |
I had the same trouble with the rivet tail being to short. I went to the h
ardware store and bought some aluminum tubing that would just fit over the
rivet tail before it was installed. I cut about a 1 inch length and had so
meone hold the tubing over the rivet on the inside of the fuselage while I
pulled the rivet from the out side. As the pop rivet expanded it did the s
ame to the tubing and the tubing made a nice little nipple to connect van's
plastic tubing to on the inside. I sealed it with a couple of turns of sa
fety wire.
Bob Savage
RV7A
Firewall Forward
> From: jerry(at)mc.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Static System Assembly
> Date: Wed=2C 17 Dec 2008 12:37:31 -0600
>
>
> Dear List ...
> I'm rebuilding my static system and am looking for "how did you do it"
> suggestions.
>
> Specifically:
> How did you attach the tubing to the Van's static port rivet tails?
> Glue=2C RTV or ... ?
>
> Did any of you find a clamp that would work with such a small diameter an
d
> short rivet tail?
>
> What method does not work or will not hold together between condition
> inspections?
> Thanks=2C Jerry
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Suspicious message? There=92s an alert for that.
http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broa
d2_122008
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static System Assembly |
Hi Jerry
That's a good idea: It eliminates the tapping operation.
Also, one complication of my use of round bar is that
there are not features for use of a wrench. Vise grip
pliers solved that, but I made later versions from 1/2"
hex aluminum bar. Pipe caps generally have features
that make them compatible with some kind of wrench or
pliers. McMaster sells an aluminum cap that's threaded
for 1/8 pipe, their part number 44705K372, $2.18.
Mike Linse
Corvallis, OR
RV-6A
>
> Hi Mike,
> [snip] It also seems possible to drill a close fitting hole
> in a light weight pipe cap, and expand the rivet into that
> cap then drive out the center stem. Back it up with a little
> tank sealant.
> Thanks, Jerry
>
>>
>> I came up with a way to make a back-side fitting for
>> Van's static port... It's described in the EAA chapter 105
>> newsletter for April 2005, page 2:
>> http://www.eaa105.org/Newsletter/nl-200504.pdf
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static System Assembly |
Mike,
Thanks for the McMaster part number on the cap. I just ordered two of them
along with enough "push to connect" parts to assemble the static plumbing.
You are right, Mike, these parts will make rebuilding the system far easier
and the sealing of small parts is now going to be a non-issue.
One other thing to add: If a push to connect T is installed in the static
line leading to the instruments, the transponder check will be simple to do.
This T could be permanently installed in the line passing through the rear
cockpit which makes it accessible while standing on the ground and reaching
over the canopy rail.
Thanks, Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Selection |
I am building an RV-7, and am installing the 180HP XP-360 engine with
an Airflow Performance FI system. I got the stock/standard oil cooler
in my firewall-forward package (Van's part "EA OIL COOLER II").
Reading comments from others my impression is that the -7s have a
tendency to run hot. I'm curious as to the impression other on the list
have about the best oil cooler to run with the setup I intend to install.
Right NOW is the time for me to make a decision, as I'm just starting
to do some baffle work.
Clearly, if I stick with the existing cooler I can baffle-mount it,
but if I switch to the larger Stewart/Warner style ol cooler (Van's
part "EA OIL COOLER 20006A") I'll need to firewall mount the cooler
and the baffle behind the #4 cylinder will need a fitting for four
inch SCAT hose.
So ... whats the collected wisdom on this issue, folks? Chime in if
you have experiences one way or the other. And ... thanks!
-- Dwight Frye
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Selection |
Dwight:
I just finished flying off my hours with an XP IO 360. I used the
factory mount and radiator mounted on the baffling behind # 4
cylinder. I started flying off my hours in October when daytime temps
here in SOCal were in the high nineties and low 100s. Oil temps did
not go above 220 and as the engine broke in were normally between 180
and 195. I did do some extra bracing as has been reported by others
to reduce vibration and avoid cracking of the cooler mount and
baffling. I really like the engine -- it did take some practice to
get used to hot starts with the Airflow FI induction system, but it
is easy once you get used to it.
best wishes
dave RV 7A
On Dec 18, 2008, at 2:10 PM, Dwight Frye wrote:
>
> I am building an RV-7, and am installing the 180HP XP-360 engine with
> an Airflow Performance FI system. I got the stock/standard oil cooler
> in my firewall-forward package (Van's part "EA OIL COOLER II").
>
> Reading comments from others my impression is that the -7s have a
> tendency to run hot. I'm curious as to the impression other on the
> list
> have about the best oil cooler to run with the setup I intend to
> install.
> Right NOW is the time for me to make a decision, as I'm just starting
> to do some baffle work.
>
> Clearly, if I stick with the existing cooler I can baffle-mount it,
> but if I switch to the larger Stewart/Warner style ol cooler (Van's
> part "EA OIL COOLER 20006A") I'll need to firewall mount the cooler
> and the baffle behind the #4 cylinder will need a fitting for four
> inch SCAT hose.
>
> So ... whats the collected wisdom on this issue, folks? Chime in if
> you have experiences one way or the other. And ... thanks!
>
> -- Dwight Frye
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Selection |
Check this out Dwight ... it was sent to me by this builder last year,
he installed a SW ... just an idea for you. Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: crunk12
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 1:05 PM
Subject: Firewall mounted oil coolers
Jerry,
Sorry for butting-in but I sent some other -8 builders this pic of my
installation. I've had the airplane in Phoenix in 116 degree weather and
had no problems. (I live in Atlanta)
I hope this will be of some help. This shows the positech which didn't
work from the start, i.e., the first flight.
I replaced it with the S/W and have had no problems since.
I hope this will be of some help.
Jim Crunkleton N802JD
I am building an RV-7, and am installing the 180HP XP-360 engine with
an Airflow Performance FI system. I got the stock/standard oil cooler
in my firewall-forward package (Van's part "EA OIL COOLER II").
Reading comments from others my impression is that the -7s have a
tendency to run hot. I'm curious as to the impression other on the list
have about the best oil cooler to run with the setup I intend to
install.
Right NOW is the time for me to make a decision, as I'm just starting
to do some baffle work.
Clearly, if I stick with the existing cooler I can baffle-mount it,
but if I switch to the larger Stewart/Warner style ol cooler (Van's
part "EA OIL COOLER 20006A") I'll need to firewall mount the cooler
and the baffle behind the #4 cylinder will need a fitting for four
inch SCAT hose.
So ... whats the collected wisdom on this issue, folks? Chime in if
you have experiences one way or the other. And ... thanks!
-- Dwight Frye
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Selection |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Dwight,
I live in central Florida and have the same system you have. I
use the Posi---- what ever oil cooler from Van's and baffle mounted it.
I added a brace from the inside (centerline side) of the cooler to the
mounting tab flange on the engine for the purge valve. This made the
oil cooler solid to the engine rather than just attached to the baffle.
I have had no cooling problems . I started flying July 1st and only got
the oil temps high by leaning (220*F). Now that it is winter (?) here in
Florida, I watch to be sure it gets warm enough (over 180*F). I do like
the AFP fuel injection system and especially the purge valve.
Jim
____________________________________________________________
Free information - Learn about Hardwood Floors. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2eFAHLrX5yxmZQ6W93pZCmRSCYeKksvW6lnoUnBYJ2bqfrV/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Judge" <bjudge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler Selection |
I've been running a setrab 10 row oil cooler mounted to the baffles for ~150
hrs and never had an oil temp issue. the highest I see on a 100 F day is
200 F oil temp. Cruise will generally settle out around 170 F.
It is about 1/4 of the stock cooler size. I had a friend who was running
one in a 180 hp RV-6 and I figured it was worth a try.
I made the swap because the stock cooler kept cracking my baffles and my
temps were always low even with the stock cooler completely covered.
I beefed up the baffles when I did the change out so it's hard to tell if
the lack of cracks is from the extra material, decreased weight or
combination. Either way I was cracking baffles about every 60 hrs before.
no problems since.
Bill Judge
N84WJ 330 hrs.
rv-8.blogspot.com
>
>
> From: Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org>
> Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Selection
>
>
> I am building an RV-7, and am installing the 180HP XP-360 engine with
> an Airflow Performance FI system. I got the stock/standard oil cooler
> in my firewall-forward package (Van's part "EA OIL COOLER II").
>
> Reading comments from others my impression is that the -7s have a
> tendency to run hot. I'm curious as to the impression other on the list
> have about the best oil cooler to run with the setup I intend to install.
> Right NOW is the time for me to make a decision, as I'm just starting
> to do some baffle work.
>
> Clearly, if I stick with the existing cooler I can baffle-mount it,
> but if I switch to the larger Stewart/Warner style ol cooler (Van's
> part "EA OIL COOLER 20006A") I'll need to firewall mount the cooler
> and the baffle behind the #4 cylinder will need a fitting for four
> inch SCAT hose.
>
> So ... whats the collected wisdom on this issue, folks? Chime in if
> you have experiences one way or the other. And ... thanks!
>
> -- Dwight Frye
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: David Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Cooler Selection
>
>
> Dwight:
>
> I just finished flying off my hours with an XP IO 360. I used the
> factory mount and radiator mounted on the baffling behind # 4
> cylinder. I started flying off my hours in October when daytime temps
> here in SOCal were in the high nineties and low 100s. Oil temps did
> not go above 220 and as the engine broke in were normally between 180
> and 195. I did do some extra bracing as has been reported by others
> to reduce vibration and avoid cracking of the cooler mount and
> baffling. I really like the engine -- it did take some practice to
> get used to hot starts with the Airflow FI induction system, but it
> is easy once you get used to it.
>
> best wishes
> dave RV 7A
>
>
> On Dec 18, 2008, at 2:10 PM, Dwight Frye wrote:
>
> >
> > I am building an RV-7, and am installing the 180HP XP-360 engine with
> > an Airflow Performance FI system. I got the stock/standard oil cooler
> > in my firewall-forward package (Van's part "EA OIL COOLER II").
> >
> > Reading comments from others my impression is that the -7s have a
> > tendency to run hot. I'm curious as to the impression other on the
> > list
> > have about the best oil cooler to run with the setup I intend to
> > install.
> > Right NOW is the time for me to make a decision, as I'm just starting
> > to do some baffle work.
> >
> > Clearly, if I stick with the existing cooler I can baffle-mount it,
> > but if I switch to the larger Stewart/Warner style ol cooler (Van's
> > part "EA OIL COOLER 20006A") I'll need to firewall mount the cooler
> > and the baffle behind the #4 cylinder will need a fitting for four
> > inch SCAT hose.
> >
> > So ... whats the collected wisdom on this issue, folks? Chime in if
> > you have experiences one way or the other. And ... thanks!
> >
> > -- Dwight Frye
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Selection
>
> Check this out Dwight ... it was sent to me by this builder last year,
> he installed a SW ... just an idea for you. Jerry
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: crunk12
> Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 1:05 PM
> Subject: Firewall mounted oil coolers
>
>
> Jerry,
> Sorry for butting-in but I sent some other -8 builders this pic of my
> installation. I've had the airplane in Phoenix in 116 degree weather and
> had no problems. (I live in Atlanta)
> I hope this will be of some help. This shows the positech which didn't
> work from the start, i.e., the first flight.
> I replaced it with the S/W and have had no problems since.
> I hope this will be of some help.
> Jim Crunkleton N802JD
>
>
> I am building an RV-7, and am installing the 180HP XP-360 engine with
> an Airflow Performance FI system. I got the stock/standard oil cooler
> in my firewall-forward package (Van's part "EA OIL COOLER II").
>
> Reading comments from others my impression is that the -7s have a
> tendency to run hot. I'm curious as to the impression other on the list
> have about the best oil cooler to run with the setup I intend to
> install.
> Right NOW is the time for me to make a decision, as I'm just starting
> to do some baffle work.
>
> Clearly, if I stick with the existing cooler I can baffle-mount it,
> but if I switch to the larger Stewart/Warner style ol cooler (Van's
> part "EA OIL COOLER 20006A") I'll need to firewall mount the cooler
> and the baffle behind the #4 cylinder will need a fitting for four
> inch SCAT hose.
>
> So ... whats the collected wisdom on this issue, folks? Chime in if
> you have experiences one way or the other. And ... thanks!
>
> -- Dwight Frye
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6A rudder trim tab |
I am priming things. I gather that most planes have a small
rectangle of sheet aluminum glued/taped to the trailing edge of the
rudder and this is used to make a tiny trim adjustment to the
rudder. I can't find a reference to this in my manual. Can some one
advise me of the size of this this and what thickness is usually used
for it?
Thanks,
---Tom Sargent, RV-6A, almost ready for the color coat.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A rudder trim tab |
Hi Tom,
What worked for me was a balsa trailing edge for model airplanes purchased
from a hobby shop. I used one about 1" wide attached with double stick foam
tape. I started with one about 8" long and finally trimmed it to about 5-6"
after several trials. I have seen wedges of various materials, attached in
various ways on RVs. I am sure the length needed varies with the individual
plane. So, it is an engineering experiment to adjust the length as needed
until the plane flies with the ball in the center at cruise speed. It is a
separate problem from a heavy wing correction. I used a balsa wedge from the
same stick as my final rudder trim and painted it the color of the rudder.
The foam tape was still intact after three years and 140 hours.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas sargent" <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 12:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6A rudder trim tab
>
> I am priming things. I gather that most planes have a small rectangle of
> sheet aluminum glued/taped to the trailing edge of the rudder and this is
> used to make a tiny trim adjustment to the rudder. I can't find a
> reference to this in my manual. Can some one advise me of the size of
> this this and what thickness is usually used for it?
>
> Thanks,
> ---Tom Sargent, RV-6A, almost ready for the color coat.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A rudder trim tab |
Tom, most use balsa wood and size is determined by trial and error.
Most I used are about 4 to 7" long by 1.5" wide. After trying in
flight and size is determined attach it with JB Weld. and away you go.
Dick RV6A
>
> I am priming things. I gather that most planes have a small
>rectangle of sheet aluminum glued/taped to the trailing edge of the
>rudder and this is used to make a tiny trim adjustment to the
>rudder. I can't find a reference to this in my manual. Can some one
>advise me of the size of this this and what thickness is usually used
>for it?
>
>Thanks,
>---Tom Sargent, RV-6A, almost ready for the color coat.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A rudder trim tab |
Oops. Make that a tapered pc of balsa starting at 1/8" and going to about 1/4"
>Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2008 12:42:01 -0500
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>From: Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A rudder trim tab
>
>Tom, most use balsa wood and size is determined by trial and error.
>Most I used are about 4 to 7" long by 1.5" wide. After trying in
>flight and size is determined attach it with JB Weld. and away you go.
>Dick RV6A
>>
>> I am priming things. I gather that most planes have a small
>>rectangle of sheet aluminum glued/taped to the trailing edge of the
>>rudder and this is used to make a tiny trim adjustment to the
>>rudder. I can't find a reference to this in my manual. Can some one
>>advise me of the size of this this and what thickness is usually used
>>for it?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>---Tom Sargent, RV-6A, almost ready for the color coat.
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A rudder trim tab |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Tom,
A few years ago, I installed this simple wedge now sold by Avery. Trim its length
in 1/8" increments and test fly until you are happy with the performance.
Can be epoxied into place. My wedge is attached to the rudder with double sided
carpet tape, works fine.
http://www.averytools.com/pc-118-112-rudder-trim-tab.aspx
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220318#220318
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jimmy" <jimmy(at)jhill.biz> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A rudder trim tab |
Why would you not want to use a small spring attached to the proper rudder
pedal?
Jimmy
8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 12:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-6A rudder trim tab
>
> Tom,
> A few years ago, I installed this simple wedge now sold by Avery. Trim
> its length in 1/8" increments and test fly until you are happy with the
> performance. Can be epoxied into place. My wedge is attached to the
> rudder with double sided carpet tape, works fine.
>
> http://www.averytools.com/pc-118-112-rudder-trim-tab.aspx
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220318#220318
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A rudder trim tab |
I tried that. Spring amount that was good at cruise was way too much
at low speeds. I changed it out for the wedge.
On 12/20/08, jimmy wrote:
>
> Why would you not want to use a small spring attached to the proper rudder
> pedal?
>
> Jimmy
>
> 8A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 12:49 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-6A rudder trim tab
>
>
>>
>> Tom,
>> A few years ago, I installed this simple wedge now sold by Avery. Trim
>> its length in 1/8" increments and test fly until you are happy with the
>> performance. Can be epoxied into place. My wedge is attached to the
>> rudder with double sided carpet tape, works fine.
>>
>> http://www.averytools.com/pc-118-112-rudder-trim-tab.aspx
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220318#220318
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Grajek <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Microair Transponder |
I hav a Microair T2000SFL Transponder for sale.
$1500 with harness!
jetjocal(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Starter Ring Gear source? |
My starter ring gear has gotten chewed up and is beginning to have
problems engaging. Anyone have recommendations for a good parts
source. I believe it is 149 teeth -- it is an O-360-A1A, bought new
from Van's in 2000. A location in the Washington, DC area would be
great, but I suppose it can be mailed from anywhere.
Thanks!
Randy Garrett
RV-6A
850 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Starter Ring Gear source? |
Randy -
I'd suggest Barrett Precision or Mattituck.
Rhonda and Mahlon provide an invaluable service to The Lists.
Let's support them.
Neal George
CherokeeJet N9586J
RV-7 N8ZG
-----Original Message-----
My starter ring gear has gotten chewed up and is beginning to have
problems engaging. Anyone have recommendations for a good parts
source. I believe it is 149 teeth -- it is an O-360-A1A, bought new
from Van's in 2000. A location in the Washington, DC area would be
great, but I suppose it can be mailed from anywhere.
Thanks!
Randy Garrett
RV-6A
850 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tiger10" <tiger10(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Starter Ring Gear source? |
I have used Preferred Air Parts in Ohio for years. They have some new but
mostly used parts and are reliable and honest. I'm on the road at the
moment, but they have a web site.
Jim Carey
8-A building
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neal George
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 9:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Starter Ring Gear source?
Randy -
I'd suggest Barrett Precision or Mattituck.
Rhonda and Mahlon provide an invaluable service to The Lists.
Let's support them.
Neal George
CherokeeJet N9586J
RV-7 N8ZG
-----Original Message-----
My starter ring gear has gotten chewed up and is beginning to have
problems engaging. Anyone have recommendations for a good parts
source. I believe it is 149 teeth -- it is an O-360-A1A, bought new
from Van's in 2000. A location in the Washington, DC area would be
great, but I suppose it can be mailed from anywhere.
Thanks!
Randy Garrett
RV-6A
850 hours
__________ NOD32 3709 (20081220) Information __________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Ring Gear source? |
I have the same problem, caused by the factory installed lightweight starter not aligning properly with the ring gear. I replaced the starter at about 400 hours and it now seems to engage properly but the damage to the ring gear was already done. I bought my replacement ring gear from Sacramento Sky Ranch (www.sacskyranch.com). It is 149 teeth.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 533 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett7(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 8:08:54 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV-List: Starter Ring Gear source?
My starter ring gear has gotten chewed up and is beginning to have
problems engaging. Anyone have recommendations for a good parts
source. I believe it is 149 teeth -- it is an O-360-A1A, bought new
from Van's in 2000. A location in the Washington, DC area would be
great, but I suppose it can be mailed from anywhere.
Thanks!
Randy Garrett
RV-6A
850 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Ring Gear source? |
I have never had to deal with-a ring gear....... but, couldnt you remove
it, flip it over and-reinstall it with the worn teeth facing forward inst
ead of on the starter side?=0A-=0AScott=0ARV-8a=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________
________________________=0AFrom: "HCRV6(at)comcast.net" <HCRV6(at)comcast.net>=0A
ubject: Re: RV-List: Starter Ring Gear source?=0A=0A=0AI have the same prob
lem, caused by the factory installed lightweight starter not aligning prope
rly with the ring gear.- I replaced the starter at about 400 hours and it
now seems to engage properly but the damage to the ring gear was already d
one.- I bought my replacement ring gear from Sacramento Sky Ranch (www.sa
cskyranch.com).- It is 149 teeth.=0A=0AHarry Crosby=0ARV-6 N16CX, 533 hou
rs=0A=0A----- Original Message -----=0AFrom: "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett7@gma
il.com>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 8:08
:54 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific=0ASubject: RV-List: Starter Ring Gear s
.com>=0A=0AMy starter ring gear has gotten chewed up and is beginning to ha
ve=0Aproblems engaging. -Anyone have recommendations for a good parts=0As
ource. -I believe it is 149 teeth -- it is an O-360-A1A, bought new=0Afro
m Van's in 2000. -A location in the Washington, DC area would be=0Agreat,
but I suppose it can be mailed from anywhere.=0A=0AThanks!=0A=0ARandy Garr
ett=0ARV-nbsp; - - - - - - - --Matt Dralle, =====
===================0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Ring Gear source? |
Try Don George in Orlando. He has non certified ring gears which are a big seller
with the air boat guys down here in Florida. See
http://orlando-fl.digicity.org/GeneralCompanies/Don_George_Aircraft_Engines_and_Parts-1987442849id.html
Charlie Kuss
--- On Tue, 12/23/08, Randy Garrett wrote:
> From: Randy Garrett <rgarrett7(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Starter Ring Gear source?
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, December 23, 2008, 11:08 AM
>
>
> My starter ring gear has gotten chewed up and is beginning
> to have
> problems engaging. Anyone have recommendations for a good
> parts
> source. I believe it is 149 teeth -- it is an O-360-A1A,
> bought new
> from Van's in 2000. A location in the Washington, DC
> area would be
> great, but I suppose it can be mailed from anywhere.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Randy Garrett
> RV-6A
> 850 hours
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Hooper" <krhooper(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Ring Gear source? |
You might check Ebay. Check for the proper part number. Not all ring gears
are created equal. I recently bought one for an O-320 for $50.
Someone earlier mentioned flipping the ring gear. There is a bevel on one
side so that will not work.
Randy Hooper
On Tue, Dec 23, 2008 at 2:40 PM, Charles Kuss wrote:
>
> Try Don George in Orlando. He has non certified ring gears which are a big
> seller with the air boat guys down here in Florida. See
>
>
> http://orlando-fl.digicity.org/GeneralCompanies/Don_George_Aircraft_Engines_and_Parts-1987442849id.html
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> --- On Tue, 12/23/08, Randy Garrett wrote:
>
> > From: Randy Garrett <rgarrett7(at)gmail.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Starter Ring Gear source?
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Tuesday, December 23, 2008, 11:08 AM
> >
> >
> > My starter ring gear has gotten chewed up and is beginning
> > to have
> > problems engaging. Anyone have recommendations for a good
> > parts
> > source. I believe it is 149 teeth -- it is an O-360-A1A,
> > bought new
> > from Van's in 2000. A location in the Washington, DC
> > area would be
> > great, but I suppose it can be mailed from anywhere.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Randy Garrett
> > RV-6A
> > 850 hours
> >
>
>
--
Randy Hooper
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Ring Gear source? |
The starter side of the gear tooth is beveled to help the starter gear
to engage. No bevel on the other side. Also, how do you get the gear
off without destroying it?
Linn
scott bilinski wrote:
> I have never had to deal with a ring gear....... but, couldnt you
> remove it, flip it over and reinstall it with the worn teeth facing
> forward instead of on the starter side?
>
>
> Scott
>
> RV-8a
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Hooper" <krhooper(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Ring Gear source? |
The starter side of the gear tooth is beveled to help the starter gear to
engage. No bevel on the other side. Also, how do you get the gear off
without destroying it?
Linn
Moderately heat the steel and put a bag of ice on the inner aluminum. Bump
the ring right off. Works pretty easy.
Randy Hooper
On Mon, Dec 22, 2008 at 6:00 PM, linn Walters wrote:
>
> The starter side of the gear tooth is beveled to help the starter gear to
> engage. No bevel on the other side. Also, how do you get the gear off
> without destroying it?
> Linn
> scott bilinski wrote:
>
>> I have never had to deal with a ring gear....... but, couldnt you remove
>> it, flip it over and reinstall it with the worn teeth facing forward instead
>> of on the starter side?
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> RV-8a
>>
>>
>
>
--
Randy Hooper
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry? |
Folks,
I get monthly Jeppesen updates for my GX60 and MX20 GPS map displays. Am I
required to log the software revision and install date in the aircraft
logbook? If so, What would the entr look like?
Thanks,
Ralph
RV6A N822AR 0hrs getting ready for refresher training and waiting for the
weather......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry? |
I purchased my 4 Meg replacement card for my GX60 here:
http://www.memorydealers.com/4mbcis36serf.html
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C174+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> Date: Thu=2C 25 Dec 2008 10:21:38 -0500
>
>
> Tim=2C
>
> The cost is still astronomical! The only reason I'm doing it is I'm
> planning to get my IFR training and ticket in my 6A.
> If you decide to start updating them on a regular basis=2C the first thin
g
> you'll need is a new 4MB flash card for the GX60 - don't get it from
> Garmin - they want a mint.....I'll dig out where I got mine and post it
> here.
>
> Ralph
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday=2C December 25=2C 2008 10:12 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
>
>
> >
> > Ralph=2C I also have a GX60 & MX20 but have not updated them for over 2
> > years.
> > When I last checked the cost was pretty high=2C is this better now?
> >
> > Tim Bryan
> > RV-6 Flying
> > N616TB over 120 hours now
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> >> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> >> Sent: Thursday=2C December 25=2C 2008 8:38 AM
> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B avionics-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> >>
>
> >>
> >> Folks=2C
> >>
> >> I get monthly Jeppesen updates for my GX60 and MX20 GPS map displays.
> >> Am I
> >> required to log the software revision and install date in the aircraft
> >> logbook? If so=2C What would the entr look like?
> >>
> >> Thanks=2C
> >> Ralph
> >> RV6A N822AR 0hrs getting ready for refresher training and waiting for
> >> the
> >> weather......
_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail anywhere. No map=2C no compass.
http://windowslive.com/oneline/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_anyw
here_122008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry? |
=C2-Is something in the aftermarket available for the Garmin 430? Those c
ards are also very pricey!
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Thanks, Tom in Ohio=C2-
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 11:20:14 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
I purchased my 4 Meg replacement card for my GX60 here:
http://www.memorydealers.com/4mbcis36serf.html
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,174+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 10:21:38 -0500
>
>
> Tim,
>
> The cost is still astronomical! The only reason I'm doing it is I'm
> planning to get my IFR training and ticket in my 6A.
> If you decide to start updating them on a regular basis, the first thing
> you'll need is a new 4MB flash card for the GX60 - don't get it from
> Garmin - they want a mint.....I'll dig out where I got mine and post it
> here.
>
> Ralph
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 10:12 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
>
>
> >
> > Ralph, I also have a GX60 & MX20 but have not updated them for over 2
> > years.
> > When I last checked the cost was pretty high, is this better now?
> >
> > Tim Bryan
> > RV-6 Flying
> > N616TB over 120 hours now
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> >> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> >> Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 8:38 AM
> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; avionics-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> >>
>
> >>
> >> Folks,
> >>
> >> I get monthly Jeppesen updates for my GX60 and MX20 GPS map displays.
> >> Am I
> >> required to log the software revision and install date in the aircraft
> >> logbook? If so, What would the entr look like?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Ralph
> >> RV6A N822AR 0hrs getting ready for refresher training and waiting for
> >> the
> >> weather......
Send e-mail anywhere. No map, no compass. Get your Hotmail=C2=AE account no
=======================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Hudes <phudes(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry? |
Gary,
Did you have to format the card or was it useable the way you
received it?
Pete Hudes
On Dec 25, 2008, at 8:20 AM, RV6 Flyer wrote:
> I purchased my 4 Meg replacement card for my GX60 here:
>
> http://www.memorydealers.com/4mbcis36serf.html
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 2,174+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry? |
Hi Gary,
I had heard some had problems with the 4MB card size. Has this worked OK
for you rather than upgrading to an 8MB card.
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
I purchased my 4 Meg replacement card for my GX60 here:
http://www.memorydealers.com/4mbcis36serf.html
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,174+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 10:21:38 -0500
>
>
> Tim,
>
> The cost is still astronomical! The only reason I'm doing it is I'm
> planning to get my IFR training and ticket in my 6A.
> If you decide to start updating them on a regular basis, the first thing
> you'll need is a new 4MB flash card for the GX60 - don't get it from
> Garmin - they want a mint.....I'll dig out where I got mine and post it
> here.
>
> Ralph
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 10:12 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
>
>
> >
> > Ralph, I also have a GX60 & MX20 but have not updated them for over 2
> > years.
> > When I last checked the cost was pretty high, is this better now?
> >
> > Tim Bryan
> > RV-6 Flying
> > N616TB over 120 hours now
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> >> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> >> Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 8:38 AM
> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; avionics-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> >>
> >>
> >> Folks,
> >>
> >> I get monthly Jeppesen updates for my GX60 and MX20 GPS map displays.
> >> Am I
> >> required to log the software revision and install date in the aircraft
> >> logbook? If so, What would the entr look like?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Ralph
> >> RV6A N822AR 0hrs getting ready for refresher training and waiting for
> >> the
> >> weather......
_____
Send e-mail anywhere. No map, no compass. Get your Hotmail
<http://windowslive.com/oneline/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_anywhe
re_122008> R account now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry? |
The card isn=99t so bad, but the update service is costly.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom & Cathy
Ervin
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
Is something in the aftermarket available for the Garmin 430? Those
cards are also very pricey!
Thanks, Tom
in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 11:20:14 AM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
I purchased my 4 Meg replacement card for my GX60 here:
http://www.memorydealers.com/4mbcis36serf.html
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,174+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 10:21:38 -0500
>
>
> Tim,
>
> The cost is still astronomical! The only reason I'm doing it is I'm
> planning to get my IFR training and ticket in my 6A.
> If you decide to start updating them on a regular basis, the first
thing
> you'll need is a new 4MB flash card for the GX60 - don't get it from
> Garmin - they want a mint.....I'll dig out where I got mine and post
it
> here.
>
> Ralph
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 10:12 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
>
>
> >
> > Ralph, I also have a GX60 & MX20 but have not updated them for over
2
> > years.
> > When I last checked the cost was pretty high, is this better now?
> >
> > Tim Bryan
> > RV-6 Flying
> > N616TB over 120 hours now
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> >> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> >> Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 8:38 AM
> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; avionics-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> >>
> >>
> >> Folks,
> >>
> >> I get monthly Jeppesen updates for my GX60 and MX20 GPS map
displays.
> >> Am I
> >> required to log the software revision and install date in the
aircraft
> >> logbook? If so, What would the entr look like?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Ralph
> >> RV6A N822AR 0hrs getting ready for refresher training and waiting
for
> >> the
> >> weather......
_____
Send e-mail anywhere. No map, no compass. Get your Hotmail=C2=AE account
now.
<http://windowslive.com/oneline/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_a
nywhere_122008>
www.matronics.com/contribution"
target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
t" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
; http://forums.matronics.com
============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry? |
Plug it into the Jeppsen Skybound programmer and program it off the interne
t.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C174+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
> From: phudes(at)ix.netcom.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> Date: Thu=2C 25 Dec 2008 08:42:00 -0800
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Gary=2C
>
> Did you have to format the card or was it useable the way you
> received it?
>
> Pete Hudes
>
> On Dec 25=2C 2008=2C at 8:20 AM=2C RV6 Flyer wrote:
>
> > I purchased my 4 Meg replacement card for my GX60 here:
> >
> > http://www.memorydealers.com/4mbcis36serf.html
> >
> > Gary A. Sobek
> > "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
> > 2=2C174+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Life on your PC is safer=2C easier=2C and more enjoyable with Windows Vista
=AE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry? |
Have not heard of anyone having problems with the 4 Meg cards. I know of ab
out 6 that have gone with cards from the link I posted with NO reported pro
blems. I got the link and then card from this list years ago when the issu
e of 2 Meg cards being too small first came up.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C174+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
From: n616tb(at)btsapps.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
Date: Thu=2C 25 Dec 2008 10:49:02 -0600
Hi Gary=2C
I had heard some had problems with the 4MB card size. Has this
worked OK for you rather than upgrading to an 8MB card.
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From:
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.c
om] On
Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
Sent: Thursday=2C December 25=2C 2008 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
I purchased my 4 Meg replacement card for
my GX60 here:
http://www.memorydealers.com/4mbcis36serf.html
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C174+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> Date: Thu=2C 25 Dec 2008 10:21:38 -0500
>
>
> Tim=2C
>
> The cost is still astronomical! The only reason I'm doing it is I'm
> planning to get my IFR training and ticket in my 6A.
> If you decide to start updating them on a regular basis=2C the first thin
g
> you'll need is a new 4MB flash card for the GX60 - don't get it from
> Garmin - they want a mint.....I'll dig out where I got mine and post it
> here.
>
> Ralph
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday=2C December 25=2C 2008 10:12 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
>
>
> >
> > Ralph=2C I also have a GX60 & MX20 but have not updated them for
over 2
> > years.
> > When I last checked the cost was pretty high=2C is this better now?
> >
> > Tim Bryan
> > RV-6 Flying
> > N616TB over 120 hours now
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> >> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> >> Sent: Thursday=2C December 25=2C 2008 8:38 AM
> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B avionics-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> >>
> >>
> >> Folks=2C
> >>
> >> I get monthly Jeppesen updates for my GX60 and MX20 GPS map
displays.
> >> Am I
> >> required to log the software revision and install date in the
aircraft
> >> logbook? If so=2C What would the entr look like?
> >>
> >> Thanks=2C
> >> Ralph
> >> RV6A N822AR 0hrs getting ready for refresher training and waiting
for
> >> the
> >> weather......
Send
e-mail anywhere. No map=2C no compass. Get your Hotmail=AE account now.
http://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail anywhere. No map=2C no compass.
http://windowslive.com/oneline/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_anyw
here_122008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry? |
Hmmm. the Jeppesen site shows 2MB, 4MB, or 8MB PCMCIA memory card for the
GX60, but the MX20 is only listed as Compact Flash (approved style only)
I only find a 32MB and up in the PCMCIA ATA style. The link Gary provided
shows a 4MB Compact Flash that would work in the MX20 and they also have an
8MB Cisco approved style for 44.00
Gary do you have an MX20?
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 10:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
Hi Gary,
I had heard some had problems with the 4MB card size. Has this worked OK
for you rather than upgrading to an 8MB card.
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
I purchased my 4 Meg replacement card for my GX60 here:
http://www.memorydealers.com/4mbcis36serf.html
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,174+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 10:21:38 -0500
>
>
> Tim,
>
> The cost is still astronomical! The only reason I'm doing it is I'm
> planning to get my IFR training and ticket in my 6A.
> If you decide to start updating them on a regular basis, the first thing
> you'll need is a new 4MB flash card for the GX60 - don't get it from
> Garmin - they want a mint.....I'll dig out where I got mine and post it
> here.
>
> Ralph
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 10:12 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
>
>
> >
> > Ralph, I also have a GX60 & MX20 but have not updated them for over 2
> > years.
> > When I last checked the cost was pretty high, is this better now?
> >
> > Tim Bryan
> > RV-6 Flying
> > N616TB over 120 hours now
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> >> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> >> Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 8:38 AM
> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; avionics-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> >>
> >>
> >> Folks,
> >>
> >> I get monthly Jeppesen updates for my GX60 and MX20 GPS map displays.
> >> Am I
> >> required to log the software revision and install date in the aircraft
> >> logbook? If so, What would the entr look like?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Ralph
> >> RV6A N822AR 0hrs getting ready for refresher training and waiting for
> >> the
> >> weather......
_____
Send e-mail anywhere. No map, no compass. Get your Hotmail
<http://windowslive.com/oneline/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_anywhe
re_122008> R account now.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry? |
That display on the unit does not meet the requirements of Part 43. You
need a record that meets 43.9 if you want the unit legal for IFR.
Randy Hooper wrote:
> No log requirement. The current data base will be indicated on your unit.
>
> Randy Hooper
>
> *=====================================
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry? |
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> That display on the unit does not meet the requirements of Part 43. You
> need a record that meets 43.9 if you want the unit legal for IFR.
Is 43.9 applicable to aircraft with an experimental airworthiness
certificate?
Sam Buchanan
>
> Randy Hooper wrote:
>> No log requirement. The current data base will be indicated on your unit.
>>
>> Randy Hooper
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry? |
For items that have to meet a TSO, like ELTs and IFR GPSs yes.
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> That display on the unit does not meet the requirements of Part 43.
>> You need a record that meets 43.9 if you want the unit legal for IFR.
>
>
> Is 43.9 applicable to aircraft with an experimental airworthiness
> certificate?
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
>>
>> Randy Hooper wrote:
>>> No log requirement. The current data base will be indicated on your
>>> unit.
>>>
>>> Randy Hooper
>>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry? |
Negative on the MX20. Only the GX60. The SL30 does not use a data card.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C174+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
From: n616tb(at)btsapps.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
Date: Thu=2C 25 Dec 2008 11:13:25 -0600
Hmmm=85 the Jeppesen site shows 2MB=2C 4MB=2C or 8MB PCMCIA memory card
for the GX60=2C but the MX20 is only listed as Compact Flash (approved styl
e
only)
I only find a 32MB and up in the PCMCIA ATA style. The link Gary
provided shows a 4MB Compact Flash that would work in the MX20 and they als
o
have an 8MB Cisco approved style for 44.00
Gary do you have an MX20?
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From:
owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.c
om] On
Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Thursday=2C December 25=2C 2008 10:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
Hi Gary=2C
I had heard some had problems with the 4MB card size. Has
this worked OK for you rather than upgrading to an 8MB card.
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
Sent: Thursday=2C December 25=2C 2008 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
I purchased my 4 Meg replacement card for
my GX60 here:
http://www.memorydealers.com/4mbcis36serf.html
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C174+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> Date: Thu=2C 25 Dec 2008 10:21:38 -0500
>
>
> Tim=2C
>
> The cost is still astronomical! The only reason I'm doing it is I'm
> planning to get my IFR training and ticket in my 6A.
> If you decide to start updating them on a regular basis=2C the first thin
g
> you'll need is a new 4MB flash card for the GX60 - don't get it from
> Garmin - they want a mint.....I'll dig out where I got mine and post it
> here.
>
> Ralph
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday=2C December 25=2C 2008 10:12 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
>
>
> >
> > Ralph=2C I also have a GX60 & MX20 but have not updated them for
over 2
> > years.
> > When I last checked the cost was pretty high=2C is this better now?
> >
> > Tim Bryan
> > RV-6 Flying
> > N616TB over 120 hours now
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> >> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> >> Sent: Thursday=2C December 25=2C 2008 8:38 AM
> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B avionics-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: RV-List: GX60/MX20 monthly - require Logbook entry?
> >>
> >>
> >> Folks=2C
> >>
> >> I get monthly Jeppesen updates for my GX60 and MX20 GPS map
displays.
> >> Am I
> >> required to log the software revision and install date in the
aircraft
> >> logbook? If so=2C What would the entr look like?
> >>
> >> Thanks=2C
> >> Ralph
> >> RV6A N822AR 0hrs getting ready for refresher training and waiting
for
> >> the
> >> weather......
Send
e-mail anywhere. No map=2C no compass. Get your Hotmail=AE account now.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator
?RV-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contributio
nhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed
_122008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Selection |
Dwight,
When I built my RV8 .IO360AlB6 ten years ago and converted to IO390AlB6 5
years ago, I experienced the same problems you are encountering. Van
supplied the Positeck oil cooler and suggested firewall mounting. This was
a disaster. No matter what I did, it overheated immediately. I live in
Wisconsin where it is cold. I then tried another popular cooler and mounted
it on the back of cyl 4. It worked better, but still hot. After talking to
friends in the race group, I found that they had all been there and done
that to no avail. The solution is a Niagara/Harrison (now called Niagara)
10 row cooler mounted on the back of Cyl 4 as high as possible and tilted
down towards the cowling outlet as much as possible. Approx 30 to 45
degrees. The reason for the tilt is that when the outflow is directed down
towards the cowl outlet at the bottom of the cowl, it reduces the back
pressure and turbulance that is induced by directing the flow back to the
firewall and then down and out. Depending on your engine installation, you
will be able to obtain between 30 and 45 degrees down tilt before the engine
mount interfers with the oil cooler.
Good luck. If you want to discuss this, do not email me, as I do not always
monitor the internet. Call me @ 920 619 6968 cell anytime, central time
until 1-1 2009, eastern time after, I will be in Spruce Creek Airpark in
Florida January thru April 2009.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dwight Frye" <dwight(at)openweave.org>
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 4:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Selection
>
> I am building an RV-7, and am installing the 180HP XP-360 engine with
> an Airflow Performance FI system. I got the stock/standard oil cooler
> in my firewall-forward package (Van's part "EA OIL COOLER II").
>
> Reading comments from others my impression is that the -7s have a
> tendency to run hot. I'm curious as to the impression other on the list
> have about the best oil cooler to run with the setup I intend to install.
> Right NOW is the time for me to make a decision, as I'm just starting
> to do some baffle work.
>
> Clearly, if I stick with the existing cooler I can baffle-mount it,
> but if I switch to the larger Stewart/Warner style ol cooler (Van's
> part "EA OIL COOLER 20006A") I'll need to firewall mount the cooler
> and the baffle behind the #4 cylinder will need a fitting for four
> inch SCAT hose.
>
> So ... whats the collected wisdom on this issue, folks? Chime in if
> you have experiences one way or the other. And ... thanks!
>
> -- Dwight Frye
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Holbrook" <dholbrook7(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Electroair ignition |
Greetings:
I have an HIO-360-B1A installed on an RV6 with dual Electroair igns.
This is a recent "upgrade" from a '90s Electroair version that worked
beautifully... well, until it didn't. Anyway, the new version's
magnetic timing sensors are apparently more sensitive to some
ill-defined variation that Electroair tells me is causing the controller
to "reset" -- meaning the ignition shuts off for some fraction of a
second. Not noticeable above 900 RPM or so... other than I know it's
there. Below 900 RPM there is a noticeable drop and much below that
with just the single ignition selected the engine will quit completely.
This is only on one side -- the other works as advertised. My local A&P
has looked over the mag drive gears and finds absolutely nothing wrong.
So Electroair is telling me nothing's wrong with the ignition and my A&P
is telling me nothing's wrong with engine... but I still have a problem.
Anybody out there with a similiar experience? Or experience with the
"modern" version of Electroair?
Thanks, Dennis
Virginia Beach, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electroair ignition |
Dennis,
First off I take you have one of the purple units now. Did the pickups
change? Do you have the crank trigger or the magneto hole housing? What
gap are you running on the pickups? What size of pickups, 3/8" or 1/2"?
What was wrong with your original unit?
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On Sun, Dec 28, 2008 at 6:14 PM, Dennis Holbrook wrote:
> Greetings:
>
> I have an HIO-360-B1A installed on an RV6 with dual Electroair igns. This
> is a recent "upgrade" from a '90s Electroair version that worked
> beautifully... well, until it didn't. Anyway, the new version's magnetic
> timing sensors are apparently more sensitive to some ill-defined variation
> that Electroair tells me is causing the controller to "reset" -- meaning the
> ignition shuts off for some fraction of a second. Not noticeable above 900
> RPM or so... other than I know it's there. Below 900 RPM there is a
> noticeable drop and much below that with just the single ignition selected
> the engine will quit completely. This is only on one side -- the other
> works as advertised. My local A&P has looked over the mag drive gears and
> finds absolutely nothing wrong. So Electroair is telling me nothing's wrong
> with the ignition and my A&P is telling me nothing's wrong with engine...
> but I still have a problem.
>
> Anybody out there with a similiar experience? Or experience with the
> "modern" version of Electroair?
>
> Thanks, Dennis
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Electroair ignition |
electroair works flawless, thanks to jeff
1st class opinion cuz?i,?know iv used one.
m n m
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob J. <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 5:30 pm
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electroair ignition
Dennis,
First off I take you have one of the purple units now.? Did the pickups change??
Do you have the crank trigger or the magneto hole housing?? What gap are you
running on the pickups?? What size of pickups, 3/8" or 1/2"?
What was wrong with your original unit?
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On Sun, Dec 28, 2008 at 6:14 PM, Dennis Holbrook wrote:
Greetings:
?
I have an HIO-360-B1A installed on an RV6 with dual Electroair igns.? This is a
recent "upgrade" from a '90s Electroair version that worked beautifully... well,
until it didn't.? Anyway, the new version's magnetic timing sensors are apparently
more sensitive to some ill-defined variation that?Electroair tells me
is causing the controller to "reset" -- meaning the ignition shuts off for some
fraction of a second.? Not noticeable above 900 RPM or so... other than I?know
it's there.? Below 900 RPM there is a noticeable drop and much below that
with just the single ignition selected the engine will quit completely.? This
is only on one side -- the other works as advertised.? My local A&P has looked
over the mag drive gears and finds absolutely nothing wrong.? So Electroair is
telling me nothing's wrong with the ignition and my A&P is telling me nothing's
wrong with engine... but I still have a problem.?
?
Anybody out there with a similiar experience?? Or experience with the "modern"
version of Electroair?
?
Thanks,? Dennis
Virginia Beach, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Can I log PIC time |
Folks,
I'm getting ready for my first flight in my RV6A. The plane's legal, the pilot's
legal, now I want to work on the safe part...I'll be going to Georgia in a
couple of weeks to get some refresher time with Pierre. Meanwhile, I'm trying
to figure out if I can log PIC time in other pilots' 6/7/8/9...I don't have a
tailwheel endorsement?!
I know that the most critical times are take-off and landings - I want to practice
some stalls, turns, and slowing down for landing etc.
Experience is experience and I already have my type sign-off.
Thanks,
Ralph
N822AR @ N06 0 hrs and chomping at the bit......
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
| From: | "N395V" <Bearcat(at)bearcataviation.com> |
I would say you neeed the tailwheel endorsement to act as and log as PIC.
I know you ar anxious to get started but do it right. In the long run there is
no significant benefit to packing a few questionable hours in your logbook.
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221589#221589
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Ekberg" <etekberg(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
Short answer is yes, you can log PIC time w/o an endorsement as long as
someone else is "acting" as the PIC.
61.31 prohibits you to "act" as PIC in a tailwheel plane without an
endorsement. 61.51 allows you to "log" PIC time for that portion of the
flight in which you are the sole manipulator of the controls in a plane in
which you are rated (i.e. Airplane SEL in this case). I copied the far
sections below for reference.
CFR Title 14, Part 61.31 excerpt
(i) *Additional training required for operating tailwheel airplanes. *(1)
> Except as provided in paragraph (i)(2) of this section, no person may act
as
> pilot in command of a tailwheel airplane unless that person has received
and
> logged flight training from an authorized instructor in a tailwheel airpl
ane
> and received an endorsement in the person's logbook from an authorized
> instructor who found the person proficient in the operation of a tailwhee
l
> airplane. The flight training must include at least the following maneuve
rs
> and procedures:
>
> (i) Normal and crosswind takeoffs and landings;
>
> (ii) Wheel landings (unless the manufacturer has recommended against such
> landings); and
>
> (iii) Go-around procedures.
>
CFR Title 14, Part 61.51 excerpt:
> (e) *Logging pilot-in-command flight time. *(1) A sport, recreational,
> private, or commercial pilot may log pilot-in-command time only for that
> flight time during which that person=97
>
> (i) Is the sole manipulator of the controls of an aircraft for which the
> pilot is rated or has privileges;
>
> (ii) Is the sole occupant of the aircraft; or
>
> (iii) Except for a recreational pilot, is acting as pilot in command of a
n
> aircraft on which more than one pilot is required under the type
> certification of the aircraft or the regulations under which the flight i
s
> conducted.
>
On Mon, Dec 29, 2008 at 7:15 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrot
e:
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm getting ready for my first flight in my RV6A. The plane's legal, the
> pilot's legal, now I want to work on the safe part...I'll be going to
> Georgia in a couple of weeks to get some refresher time with Pierre.
> Meanwhile, I'm trying to figure out if I can log PIC time in other pilot
s'
> 6/7/8/9...I don't have a tailwheel endorsement?!
>
> I know that the most critical times are take-off and landings - I want to
> practice some stalls, turns, and slowing down for landing etc.
>
> Experience is experience and I already have my type sign-off.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph
> N822AR @ N06 0 hrs and chomping at the bit......
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
Milt said what I was thinking.....I wasn't planning to do this instead....I'm flying
with Pierre regardless.
I already have my sign-off for the 6A - just not a tailwheel - which I probably
should get regardless/eventually too!
-----Original Message-----
>From: N395V <Bearcat(at)bearcataviation.com>
>Sent: Dec 29, 2008 8:35 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Can I log PIC time
>
>
>I would say you neeed the tailwheel endorsement to act as and log as PIC.
>
>I know you ar anxious to get started but do it right. In the long run there is
no significant benefit to packing a few questionable hours in your logbook.
>
>--------
>Milt
>2003 F1 Rocket
>2006 Radial Rocket
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221589#221589
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Ekberg" <etekberg(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
Not trying to be argumentative, but you are part right and part wrong.
There is a difference between "acting" as PIC and "logging" PIC time as
specified by the CFRs. You are correct in that you can not act as PIC, but
you are wrong in that you can log PIC time as long as someone else is
"acting" PIC. See my other post where I quoted the CFRs. Along the same
lines, did you know you can log PIC time without a current medical?
Eric
On Mon, Dec 29, 2008 at 7:35 AM, N395V wrote:
>
> I would say you neeed the tailwheel endorsement to act as and log as PIC.
>
> I know you ar anxious to get started but do it right. In the long run there
> is no significant benefit to packing a few questionable hours in your
> logbook.
>
> --------
> Milt
> 2003 F1 Rocket
> 2006 Radial Rocket
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221589#221589
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
I asked several pilots a similar question because I have no tail wheel experience
much less an endorsement and my recently completed RV-8 awaits! Recently,
an ex-instructor friend of mine has been teaching me to fly his Citabria with
him "instructing" from the back seat and I have accumulated several hours to
date. As far as he is concerned, I can now fly it solo BUT he cannot provide
the endorsement because he let his instructor status lapse.
Surely, I thought I can log the time legally but quickly found out that one pilot
said this, one pilot said that. A current and seasoned instructor could not
give me a straight answer either. I finally decided to contact the AOPA which
is what I should have done in the first place. No opinions, no hearsay, no
urban legends, just the facts. The fact is this....YES you can legally log PIC
time without a tail wheel endorsement as long as you are properly rated which
means category and class. The AOPA has a full explanation detailing this
often asked question at their website. Don't take my word for it or anybody else's.
Check into it yourself. Contact the AOPA. When you are done doing the
research, feel free to log all the time as PIC as long as you are the sole manipulator
of the controls.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221600#221600
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
> Along the same lines, did you know you can log PIC time without a
> current medical?
>
>
That is true, same as I can instruct without a current medical as long
as the pilot is qualified
to act as PIC. There are even some instructors that think you need a 2nd
class medical to
instruct, which you don't. You can instruct without a medical or only a
3rd class depending on the students
qualifications. FAA in their wisdom has determined that we as flight
instructors are not being paid
as pilots but as teachers.
Little OT but interesting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Kuebler" <scottam65(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-6 / 6a kits for sale |
RV-6 / 6a kits for sale.
Empennage: Complete except for fiberglass tips. Includes electric elevator
trim kit. All parts are alodined and primed with Marhyde primer.
Wings & Phlogiston Spar: Both skeletons fully assembled. Top skins
riveted. Both tanks are complete and sealed. Flaps and ailerons complete,
but not fitted. Includes electric aileron trim kit. All parts are alodined
and primed with Deft epoxy primer (Mil-P-23377G).
Both kits are the pre-punched versions purchased in 1997 & 1998 by myself.
Construction is excellent. Preview plans and Orndorff videos are included
for both kits.
Detailed photos are available upon request.
Must sell. The first $3750 takes it all. Buyer arranges transportation.
If all items were purchased separately the price would be more than $6500
for the unassembled kits.
Regards,
Scott Kuebler
Buffalo, NY
716-510-0318- cell
scottam65(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fast 200HP RV-4 IFR For Sale $43,500 |
1989 Van=A2s RV-4=0ALycoming IO-360 200HP=0A10:1 Pistons=0AChromed Cylinder
s=0A200 HP Cam=0A1000 TTAF=0A1000 SMOH=0AAnnual due 06/09=0AIFR due 05/10
=0A=0AGood compressions, regularly flown=0A=0AProp:=0AClaus Savier made woo
d/fiberglass speed prop, Fixed Pitch=0AOverhauled by Claus 2006=0A=0APaint:
=0AImron sunburst style, Red, Orange, Yellow Condition is 7-8, but there=0A
have been added parts and replacements that require repainting. New=0Arudde
r, gear leg fairings, canopy fairing repair, cowl modification,=0Aetc.=0A
=0AAvionics:=0AGarmin SL30 NAV/COMM w/GS=0AGarmin GPS396 with Air Gizmos Pa
nel Dock=0AXM Radio=0AXM Weather=0AKing KY197 Comm=0AGarmin GTX 327 Transpo
nder=0APS Engineering PM8000 Intercom with Marker Beacon=0AGarmin MD200-306
VOR/LOC/GS=0ATrio Avionics EZPilot=0AEDO Vacuum Gyros=0ARocky Mountain Mic
roEncoder which provides:=0AAirspeed=0AAltimeter=0AOAT=0AVertical Speed Ind
icator=0APressure Altitude/Density Altitude=0A=0AElectronics International
UBG-16 engine monitor which provides:=0ACHT all cylinders=0AEGT all cylinde
rs=0AVolts=0AAmps=0AOil Temp=0AOil Pressure=0AData Recording=0AElectronics
International FP-5L Fuel Flow/Totalizer=0AG-Meter=0AElectric Flaps=0ABell T
ailwheel=0AFiberglass gear fairings=0AWing light (left side)=0AWingtip Posi
tion/Strobe=0ATail Strobe=0APanel Lighting (Electroluminescent instrument l
ights)=0AHeater=0ARear seat control stick (removable)=0ADJM Manufacturing T
hrottle Quadrant=0AManual Trim=0A=0A=0ANow, the squaks..I=A2ve been doing a
lot of modifications over the last 24 months. =0AA new rudder was built du
e to trailing edge cracks on old Van=A2s design.=0ANew rudder is new design
with thicker skin. Needs paint.=0A=0ASkybolt fasteners put on aft edge of
top cowl to replace hinge.=0AAdjustment and minor fiberglass work needed. C
owl needs paint in this=0Aarea.=0A=0ARebuilt front canopy fairing due to ai
r leaking in cockpit Needs paint and minor finishing.=0A=0AInstalled rear
seat airvent in fuselage. Needs paint in this area=0A=0AInstalled fibergla
ss gear leg fairings. Needs paint and minor finish work.=0A=0AGyros need
overhaul from aerobatics. IFR not possible for obvious=0Areasons until over
hauled. Pitot static is fine and recently certified.=0A=0AMy plan was to fi
nish all these modifications and strip and repaint the=0Aairplane. The exis
ting paint is fine, but due to all of the=0Amodifications, if a new paint s
cheme is desired, it would be a good=0Atime to do it, instead of painting a
ll the areas that need assistance.=0A=0A=0AThe airplane flies wonderful. Is
very fast (170 kt cruise all day long)=0ASomeone with desire to customize
the cosmetics will have a fantastic=0Aairplane. Selling due to military dep
loyment and do not want to store,=0Ainsure, maintain, etc while deployed.
=0A=0AI paid $55k for this airplane before the IFR panel, and other mods=0A
totaling approximately $20K. Will sell a $75k RV-4 for $43,500 since=0Ather
e are some minor cosmetic work and paint needed.=0A=0AAdditional pics at ww
w.mykitlog.com/pbesing Will post more pics very soon.=0A=0APaul Besing=0A48
0.236.2786=0Apbesing at gmail dot com=0A__________________=0APaul Besing=0A
RV-4 N73DD=0Awww.mykitlog.com/pbesing =0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
No, you are misreading the FARs you quoted. No where does it say you
have to have an endorsement to "log" PIC, only to "act as PIC". It
states you can log the time if you are the sole manipulator of the
controls. Quoting the same 61.51 you included:
e) /Logging pilot-in-command flight time. /(1) A sport, recreational,
private, or commercial pilot may log pilot-in-command time only for that
flight time during which that person
(i) Is the sole manipulator of the controls of an aircraft for which the
pilot is rated or has privileges;
Being rated is single engine land airplane, not tailwheel endorsed. Some
of us are old enough to not have any of that endorsement junk, being
"grandfathered".
Eric Ekberg wrote:
> Not trying to be argumentative, but you are part right and part wrong.
> There is a difference between "acting" as PIC and "logging" PIC time
> as specified by the CFRs. You are correct in that you can not act as
> PIC, but you are wrong in that you can log PIC time as long as someone
> else is "acting" PIC. See my other post where I quoted the CFRs. Along
> the same lines, did you know you can log PIC time without a current
> medical?
>
> Eric
>
> On Mon, Dec 29, 2008 at 7:35 AM, N395V > wrote:
>
> >
>
> I would say you neeed the tailwheel endorsement to act as and log
> as PIC.
>
> I know you ar anxious to get started but do it right. In the long
> run there is no significant benefit to packing a few questionable
> hours in your logbook.
>
> --------
> Milt
> 2003 F1 Rocket
> 2006 Radial Rocket
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221589#221589
>
>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Ekberg" <etekberg(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
Ummm...that's exactly what I said??
On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 7:50 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote
:
>
> No, you are misreading the FARs you quoted. No where does it say you have
> to have an endorsement to "log" PIC, only to "act as PIC". It states you
can
> log the time if you are the sole manipulator of the controls. Quoting the
> same 61.51 you included:
>
> e) /Logging pilot-in-command flight time. /(1) A sport, recreational,
> private, or commercial pilot may log pilot-in-command time only for that
> flight time during which that person=97
>
> (i) Is the sole manipulator of the controls of an aircraft for which the
> pilot is rated or has privileges;
>
> Being rated is single engine land airplane, not tailwheel endorsed. Some
of
> us are old enough to not have any of that endorsement junk, being
> "grandfathered".
>
>
> Eric Ekberg wrote:
>
>> Not trying to be argumentative, but you are part right and part wrong.
>> There is a difference between "acting" as PIC and "logging" PIC time as
>> specified by the CFRs. You are correct in that you can not act as PIC, b
ut
>> you are wrong in that you can log PIC time as long as someone else is
>> "acting" PIC. See my other post where I quoted the CFRs. Along the same
>> lines, did you know you can log PIC time without a current medical?
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Mon, Dec 29, 2008 at 7:35 AM, N395V > Bearcat(at)bearcataviation.com>> wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> I would say you neeed the tailwheel endorsement to act as and log
>> as PIC.
>>
>> I know you ar anxious to get started but do it right. In the long
>> run there is no significant benefit to packing a few questionable
>> hours in your logbook.
>>
>> --------
>> Milt
>> 2003 F1 Rocket
>> 2006 Radial Rocket
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221589#221589
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
How about this, "you are rated for a single engine land airplane,
however, your endorsement to log time needs to be for a tailwheel on
take off and landing." You can log the time in the air as PIC, but not
the time for landings and/or takeoffs, because you don't have the
endorsement for tailwheel, consequently, you need to have a rated and
endorsed pilot with you. Plus, your insurance will not cover you for
landings or takeoffs and you need to do that to get up and down with
your single engine aircraft! I'm confused, how about you.
In the original post, the instructor wasn't certified, so he couldn't
give the pilot an endorsement. I think the pilot knows how to fly a
tailwheel aircraft and he should go put in a few more hours with someone
who is certified and can give him the endorsement. Just my two cents.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Ekberg
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Can I log PIC time
Ummm...that's exactly what I said??
On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 7:50 AM, Kelly McMullen
wrote:
No, you are misreading the FARs you quoted. No where does it say you
have to have an endorsement to "log" PIC, only to "act as PIC". It
states you can log the time if you are the sole manipulator of the
controls. Quoting the same 61.51 you included:
e) /Logging pilot-in-command flight time. /(1) A sport,
recreational, private, or commercial pilot may log pilot-in-command time
only for that flight time during which that person=97
(i) Is the sole manipulator of the controls of an aircraft for which
the pilot is rated or has privileges;
Being rated is single engine land airplane, not tailwheel endorsed.
Some of us are old enough to not have any of that endorsement junk,
being "grandfathered".
Eric Ekberg wrote:
Not trying to be argumentative, but you are part right and part
wrong. There is a difference between "acting" as PIC and "logging" PIC
time as specified by the CFRs. You are correct in that you can not act
as PIC, but you are wrong in that you can log PIC time as long as
someone else is "acting" PIC. See my other post where I quoted the CFRs.
Along the same lines, did you know you can log PIC time without a
current medical?
Eric
On Mon, Dec 29, 2008 at 7:35 AM, N395V
>
wrote:
>
I would say you neeed the tailwheel endorsement to act as and
log
as PIC.
I know you ar anxious to get started but do it right. In the
long
run there is no significant benefit to packing a few
questionable
hours in your logbook.
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221589#221589
*
*
==========
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
==========
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
==========
MS -
k">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG.
12/29/2008 10:48 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
I read your post to say the exact opposite. So perhaps I misunderstood
what you thought you were saying? ;-)
Eric Ekberg wrote:
> Ummm...that's exactly what I said??
>
> On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 7:50 AM, Kelly McMullen > wrote:
>
> >
>
> No, you are misreading the FARs you quoted. No where does it say
> you have to have an endorsement to "log" PIC, only to "act as
> PIC". It states you can log the time if you are the sole
> manipulator of the controls. Quoting the same 61.51 you included:
>
> e) /Logging pilot-in-command flight time. /(1) A sport,
> recreational, private, or commercial pilot may log
> pilot-in-command time only for that flight time during which that
> person
>
> (i) Is the sole manipulator of the controls of an aircraft for
> which the pilot is rated or has privileges;
>
> Being rated is single engine land airplane, not tailwheel
> endorsed. Some of us are old enough to not have any of that
> endorsement junk, being "grandfathered".
>
>
> Eric Ekberg wrote:
>
> Not trying to be argumentative, but you are part right and
> part wrong. There is a difference between "acting" as PIC and
> "logging" PIC time as specified by the CFRs. You are correct
> in that you can not act as PIC, but you are wrong in that you
> can log PIC time as long as someone else is "acting" PIC. See
> my other post where I quoted the CFRs. Along the same lines,
> did you know you can log PIC time without a current medical?
>
> Eric
>
> On Mon, Dec 29, 2008 at 7:35 AM, N395V
>
> >> wrote:
>
>
> >>
>
> I would say you neeed the tailwheel endorsement to act as
> and log
> as PIC.
>
> I know you ar anxious to get started but do it right. In
> the long
> run there is no significant benefit to packing a few
> questionable
> hours in your logbook.
>
> --------
> Milt
> 2003 F1 Rocket
> 2006 Radial Rocket
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221589#221589
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> ==========
>
> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ==========
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> ==========
> MS -
> k">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
>
>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
| From: | "N395V" <Bearcat(at)bearcataviation.com> |
I think relative to this issue the best advice so far is Rick's in the form of
"check into it yourself" then decide.
After looking over the FARs, definitions and AOPA interpretations I am convinced
that the nebulosity of the FARs allow one to distinguish between "acting as
PIC" and "logging PIC time" although this is illogical, to me, I am also convinced
you cannot be successfully violated by the FAA for logging time as PIC
based solely on being the sole manipulator of the controls.
I think, though, one must consider the purposes for which they are logging the
flight time and the benefits and risks thereof.
I currently log flight time only for insurance and currency purposes and because
I believe it is required. I am not going to obtain any more ratings and am
never going to become an airline pilot so total hours are somewhat irrelevant
to me.
If you want to become an airline pilot and currently have only a few hundred hours
then you may consider every hour possible as precious especially hours of
PIC, IMC, ME etc.
I have a friend that wanted to be an airline pilot and needed Multi Time.
I would let him fly with me in my Twin Commander. He flew from the right seat
and for all or some of many flights he was the sole manipulator of the controls.
He was a Commercial MEL pilot with an instrument rating and therefore qualified
to act as pilot in command of the plane except he never had a high altitude
endorsement.
>From an insurance standpoint I clearly had to be acting PIC as on every flight
but as a "sole manipulator of the controls" he elected to "log PIC time" for
those hours he flew the plane.
He got an offer to fly a King Air and went through training and received his high
altitude endorsement to qualify for insurance.
Eventually the day came and he was invited to an American Eagle interview. The
high point of his life. It was a group interview by 3 captains.
The 1st part of the interview went well for him. They took a break and the Captains
examined the candidates log books.
After the break they questioned him as to how he could log PIC hours in a pressurised
aircraft before he received a high altitude endorsement. They also noted
a training certificate for the King Air stapled in his logbook and lack of one
for the Twin Commander. One of the capatains suggested he was packing his logbook
with "questionable hours". his explanation of the FARs and the various
interpretations did not help. His interview ended at that point, he was not invited
back. H logged a totlal of 25 hrs in the Commander, and insignificant amount
in the overall scheme of things.
--------
Milt
2003 F1 Rocket
2006 Radial Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221800#221800
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
On Tue, 30 Dec 2008, Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty wrote:
> In the original post, the instructor wasn't certified, so he couldn't
> give the pilot an endorsement. I think the pilot knows how to fly a
> tailwheel aircraft and he should go put in a few more hours with
> someone who is certified and can give him the endorsement. Just my two
> cents.
This is what I did when learning to fly the Starduster, flew with other
partners in the airplane till I knew what I was doing, then flew with an
instructor to get the endorsement.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 Mounting brake resevior
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ann Wilson <capride(at)AOL.COM> |
| Subject: | Terra 760 com radio rack |
I need a radio rack for a Terra 760 com radio. Anybody know where I
can get one?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terra 760 com radio rack |
| From: | cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com |
Send an e-mail to Bob Setzer ( rsetzer1 @tampabay.rr.com ). I think you may be
able talk him out of one. He may have an extra from his EZ. I also forwarded
your this e-mail to him.
This is the famous "Bondo Bob" No better glass man on the face of the earth :)
Sal
Lakeland, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: Ann Wilson <capride(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 12:15 pm
Subject: RV-List: Terra 760 com radio rack
?
I need a radio rack for a Terra 760 com radio. Anybody know where I can get one??
?
?
?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper) |
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
Hmmm . . . I like the interpretation than despite not having a tailwheel
endorsement, signifying in my logbook that I have received sufficient
instruction in tailwheel aircraft operation to handle a tailwheel
airplane on my own as Pilot-In-Command, that I can fly a tailwheel
aircraft and log the time as long as I don't try to take off or land it.
So following this wishful interpretation of the FARs, as a single engine
pilot I could log time in a Boeing 747 as PIlot-In-Command as long as I
fly on only one engine and leave the other three shut down. I could get
in over an hour's flight time logged at a 500 foot per minute
underpowered loss of altitude descent from 35,000 feet before we hit the
ground.
Pete Cowper
RV8 #81139
Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association member
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I log PIC time |
You are a lawyer and write that? A 747 Is not a single engine aircraft
even though you shut the other engines down, You are not rated to fly
it.
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 31, 2008, at 11:02 AM, pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper) wrote:
>
> Hmmm . . . I like the interpretation than despite not having a
> tailwheel
> endorsement, signifying in my logbook that I have received sufficient
> instruction in tailwheel aircraft operation to handle a tailwheel
> airplane on my own as Pilot-In-Command, that I can fly a tailwheel
> aircraft and log the time as long as I don't try to take off or land
> it.
>
> So following this wishful interpretation of the FARs, as a single
> engine
> pilot I could log time in a Boeing 747 as PIlot-In-Command as long
> as I
> fly on only one engine and leave the other three shut down. I could
> get
> in over an hour's flight time logged at a 500 foot per minute
> underpowered loss of altitude descent from 35,000 feet before we hit
> the
> ground.
>
> Pete Cowper
> RV8 #81139
> Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association member
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
Anyone have a few words of wisdom for me:
I'm pulling my hair out over a crappy engine idle that I can't seem to tame.
The basic problem is that I'll start the engine and it fires right up and
runs at about 700-750 RPM just like the book says it should. But from
there, all it seems to want to do is gradually idle slower and slower as the
engine warms up until it barely runs (between 450-500 RPM) by the time I've
done all my checks and am ready to take the runway for takeoff.
The engine is a new Mattituck built TMX-IO360 Lycoming clone with Lightspeed
electronic ignition on one side and a magneto on the other. It also has
Airflow Performance fuel injection with purge valve, a Sterba wood prop and
Mark Landoll's 11 pound steel inertia ring bolted to the flywheel. The
configuration is updraft with the AFP fuel controller bolted to the bottom
of the sump (like carbureted engines) and uses Van's airbox. I've read the
AFP manual and talked to the tech there and adjusted the idle mixture and
stop numerous times but I can't seem to stabilize it. When I have the
cowling off, I make the adjustments and taxi around a bit to warm up the
engine and it seems to be ok. Then I'll put the cowling back on and the
symptoms seem to reappear. There isn't anything banging against the cowling
that I can see that would be causing trouble so I'm totally stumped!
Anyone else having this problem? I'm flying out of a long but narrow strip
with trees on three side and no good places to land near the airport.
Needless to say it makes me nervous, even though the engine runs strong just
off idle and at full power. Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
4.1 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
Try it without the air filter.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DEAN PSIROPOULOS
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2008 3:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lousy idle
-->
Anyone have a few words of wisdom for me:
I'm pulling my hair out over a crappy engine idle that I can't seem to tame.
The basic problem is that I'll start the engine and it fires right up and
runs at about 700-750 RPM just like the book says it should. But from
there, all it seems to want to do is gradually idle slower and slower as the
engine warms up until it barely runs (between 450-500 RPM) by the time I've
done all my checks and am ready to take the runway for takeoff.
The engine is a new Mattituck built TMX-IO360 Lycoming clone with Lightspeed
electronic ignition on one side and a magneto on the other. It also has
Airflow Performance fuel injection with purge valve, a Sterba wood prop and
Mark Landoll's 11 pound steel inertia ring bolted to the flywheel. The
configuration is updraft with the AFP fuel controller bolted to the bottom
of the sump (like carbureted engines) and uses Van's airbox. I've read the
AFP manual and talked to the tech there and adjusted the idle mixture and
stop numerous times but I can't seem to stabilize it. When I have the
cowling off, I make the adjustments and taxi around a bit to warm up the
engine and it seems to be ok. Then I'll put the cowling back on and the
symptoms seem to reappear. There isn't anything banging against the cowling
that I can see that would be causing trouble so I'm totally stumped!
Anyone else having this problem? I'm flying out of a long but narrow strip
with trees on three side and no good places to land near the airport.
Needless to say it makes me nervous, even though the engine runs strong just
off idle and at full power. Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
4.1 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Dean=2C
It sounds like you have an intake leak. A reason it gets worse with the co
wling on is that there is warmer air inside the cowling. Without the cowli
ng the surrounding air stays the same temp. May I suggest you get a spray
water bottle. With the engine running=2C carefully spray all the intake co
nnections and see what happens. If there is an intake leak the engine shou
ld stutter. If that does not work give me a call. I think you still have
my cell phone number.
Also=2C we are flying down to your neck of the woods on january 10th for a
week in Orlando at out timeshare. maybe we can get together.
Mike Robertson > Date: Wed=2C 31 Dec 2008 15:39:06 -0500> From: dean.psirop
oulos(at)verizon.net> Subject: RV-List: Lousy idle> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com>
zon.net>> > Anyone have a few words of wisdom for me:> > I'm pulling my hai
r out over a crappy engine idle that I can't seem to tame.> The basic probl
em is that I'll start the engine and it fires right up and> runs at about 7
00-750 RPM just like the book says it should. But from> there=2C all it see
ms to want to do is gradually idle slower and slower as the> engine warms u
p until it barely runs (between 450-500 RPM) by the time I've> done all my
checks and am ready to take the runway for takeoff. > > > The engine is a n
ew Mattituck built TMX-IO360 Lycoming clone with Lightspeed> electronic ign
ition on one side and a magneto on the other. It also has> Airflow Performa
nce fuel injection with purge valve=2C a Sterba wood prop and> Mark Landoll
's 11 pound steel inertia ring bolted to the flywheel. The> configuration i
s updraft with the AFP fuel controller bolted to the bottom> of the sump (l
ike carbureted engines) and uses Van's airbox. I've read the> AFP manual an
d talked to the tech there and adjusted the idle mixture and> stop numerous
times but I can't seem to stabilize it. When I have the> cowling off=2C I
make the adjustments and taxi around a bit to warm up the> engine and it se
ems to be ok. Then I'll put the cowling back on and the> symptoms seem to r
eappear. There isn't anything banging against the cowling> that I can see t
hat would be causing trouble so I'm totally stumped!> > Anyone else having
this problem? I'm flying out of a long but narrow strip> with trees on thre
e side and no good places to land near the airport.> Needless to say it mak
es me nervous=2C even though the engine runs strong just> off idle and at f
ull power. Thanks.> > Dean Psiropoulos> RV-6A N197DM> 4.1 hours> > > > > >
=============> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed
_122008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
Might be safer to leave the engine off, blow shop vacuum cleaner air
into the intake, spray soapy water on the intake plumbing and look for
bubbles. I have never done this, but it sounds like it might work,
pinpoint the leak more precisely, and there is no prop blast and
extreme danger of loss of limb or life involved. We have a one-armed
mechanic around here who stumbled into a running engine in the service
hangar while setting the mag timing. Be careful.
-Stormy
On Dec 31, 2008, at 5:51 PM, Mike Robertson wrote:
> Dean,
>
> It sounds like you have an intake leak. A reason it gets worse with
> the cowling on is that there is warmer air inside the cowling.
> Without the cowling the surrounding air stays the same temp. May I
> suggest you get a spray water bottle. With the engine running,
> carefully spray all the intake connections and see what happens. If
> there is an intake leak the engine should stutter. If that does not
> work give me a call. I think you still have my cell phone number.
>
> Also, we are flying down to your neck of the woods on january 10th
> for a week in Orlando at out timeshare. maybe we can get together.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
> > Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 15:39:06 -0500
> > From: dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net
> > Subject: RV-List: Lousy idle
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
>
> >
> > Anyone have a few words of wisdom for me:
> >
> > I'm pulling my hair out over a crappy engine idle that I can't
> seem to tame.
> > The basic problem is that I'll start the engine and it fires right
> up and
> > runs at about 700-750 RPM just like the book says it should. But
> from
> > there, all it seems to want to do is gradually idle slower and
> slower as the
> > engine warms up until it barely runs (between 450-500 RPM) by the
> time I've
> > done all my checks and am ready to take the runway for takeoff.
> >
> >
> > The engine is a new Mattituck built TMX-IO360 Lycoming clone with
> Lightspeed
> > electronic ignition on one side and a magneto on the other. It
> also has
> > Airflow Performance fuel injection with purge valve, a Sterba wood
> prop and
> > Mark Landoll's 11 pound steel inertia ring bolted to the flywheel.
> The
> > configuration is updraft with the AFP fuel controller bolted to
> the bottom
> > of the sump (like carbureted engines) and uses Van's airbox. I've
> read the
> > AFP manual and talked to the tech there and adjusted the idle
> mixture and
> > stop numerous times but I can't seem to stabilize it. When I have
> the
> > cowling off, I make the adjustments and taxi around a bit to warm
> up the
> > engine and it seems to be ok. Then I'll put the cowling back on
> and the
> > symptoms seem to reappear. There isn't anything banging against
> the cowling
> > that I can see that would be causing trouble so I'm totally stumped!
> >
> > Anyone else having this problem? I'm flying out of a long but
> narrow strip
> > with trees on three side and no good places to land near the
> airport.
> > Needless to say it makes me nervous, even though the engine runs
> strong just
> > off idle and at full power. Thanks.
> >
> > Dean Psiropoulos
> > RV-6A N197DM
> > 4.1 hours
> >
> &=======
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills. Get your
> Hotmail=AE account.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICHARD MILLER <rickpegser(at)yahoo.com> |
it is time to get the guages out check the unregulated fuel pressure and the regulated
fuel pressure, also check the you don't have an internel leak in the servo.
but i would still bet it is an intake leak. spray all of the connections
with wd-40 and see if you get an increase in rpm.
rick
--- On Wed, 12/31/08, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
> From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Lousy idle
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, December 31, 2008, 12:39 PM
> PSIROPOULOS"
>
> Anyone have a few words of wisdom for me:
>
> I'm pulling my hair out over a crappy engine idle that
> I can't seem to tame.
> The basic problem is that I'll start the engine and it
> fires right up and
> runs at about 700-750 RPM just like the book says it
> should. But from
> there, all it seems to want to do is gradually idle slower
> and slower as the
> engine warms up until it barely runs (between 450-500 RPM)
> by the time I've
> done all my checks and am ready to take the runway for
> takeoff.
>
>
> The engine is a new Mattituck built TMX-IO360 Lycoming
> clone with Lightspeed
> electronic ignition on one side and a magneto on the other.
> It also has
> Airflow Performance fuel injection with purge valve, a
> Sterba wood prop and
> Mark Landoll's 11 pound steel inertia ring bolted to
> the flywheel. The
> configuration is updraft with the AFP fuel controller
> bolted to the bottom
> of the sump (like carbureted engines) and uses Van's
> airbox. I've read the
> AFP manual and talked to the tech there and adjusted the
> idle mixture and
> stop numerous times but I can't seem to stabilize it.
> When I have the
> cowling off, I make the adjustments and taxi around a bit
> to warm up the
> engine and it seems to be ok. Then I'll put the
> cowling back on and the
> symptoms seem to reappear. There isn't anything
> banging against the cowling
> that I can see that would be causing trouble so I'm
> totally stumped!
>
> Anyone else having this problem? I'm flying out of a
> long but narrow strip
> with trees on three side and no good places to land near
> the airport.
> Needless to say it makes me nervous, even though the engine
> runs strong just
> off idle and at full power. Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> 4.1 hours
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Full Glass Panel... |
Dear Listers,
The panel on the RV-8 got the first power up today. I interconnected all of the
major instrument panel devices to the Vertical Power VP-200 electrical system
and powered everything up. In the center screen, you can see Mt Diablo in California.
I was playing back a flight from a portable GPS I use in the rental
plane. Notice the top of the mountain is RED which means that its above our
current altitude (from the playback). The Kenwood is playing a James Bond movie...
The Vertical Power VP-200 system is very cool, btw. It is basically an electrical
system in a box plus a whole lot more. I highly recommend the system. Makes
wiring a snap!
Components include:
3ea GRT Horizon I HX EFIS 3D Displays
XM Weather Radar module for GRT HXs
Vertical Power VP-200 power system
Garmin SL-30 Nav/Com
Garmin GTX-327 Transponder
TruTrak DII VSGV Autopilot
Matronics FuelChex DX
Kenwood DNX-8120 Entertainment w/ XM and Nav
Yahoo!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 Full Glass Panel... |
| From: | "Randy Utsey" <randy(at)djdist.com> |
Way too cool! You could have a great time just sitting in the cockpit in t
he hangar! =0ACan't wait to hear it's time to fly! Keep us posted!
=0ARandy "U" =0ARV-7 / N55CU=0A=0A--------------------------------
--------=0A=0AFrom: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>=0ASent: Thu
rsday, January 01, 2009 2:38 PM=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject
: RV-List: RV-8 Full Glass Panel... =0A=0ADear Listers,=0A=0ATh
e panel on the RV-8 got the first power up today. I interconnected all of t
he major instrument panel devices to the Vertical Power VP-200 electrical s
ystem and powered everything up. In the center screen, you can see Mt Diabl
o in California. I was playing back a flight from a portable GPS I use in t
he rental plane. Notice the top of the mountain is RED which means that its
above our current altitude (from the playback). The Kenwood is playing a J
ames Bond movie... =0A=0AThe Vertical Power VP-200 system is very coo
l, btw. It is basically an electrical system in a box plus a whole lot more
. I highly recommend the system. Makes wiring a snap!=0A=0AComponents
include:=0A=0A3ea GRT Horizon I HX EFIS 3D Displays=0AXM Weather
Radar module for GRT HXs=0AVertical Power VP-200 power system=0AGarmi
n SL-30 Nav/Com=0AGarmin GTX-327 Transponder=0ATruTrak DII VSGV Autop
ilot=0AMatronics FuelChex DX=0AKenwood DNX-8120 Entertainment w/ XM a
nd Nav=0A=0AYahoo!=0A=0AMatt Dralle=0ARV-8 #82880 N998RV
=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Full Glass Panel... |
I hate to break this to you but I don't think that you will pass your
DAR inspection with that much glass. Yu should remove the one
to the upper right and send to me. I will send you an altimeter, airspeed
and something else to install in that area
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Full Glass Panel... |
Not being familiar with all the glass panel stuff I have two questions. I
was looking in the list of equipment for something that said "GPS...
something" and I don't see it. Also in the photos I see a glass with
buttons that is facing forward into where nobody could see it. What is that
one?
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TBover 120 hours now
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 11:57 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Full Glass Panel...
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> The panel on the RV-8 got the first power up today. I interconnected
> all of the major instrument panel devices to the Vertical Power VP-200
> electrical system and powered everything up. In the center screen, you
> can see Mt Diablo in California. I was playing back a flight from a
> portable GPS I use in the rental plane. Notice the top of the mountain
> is RED which means that its above our current altitude (from the
> playback). The Kenwood is playing a James Bond movie...
>
> The Vertical Power VP-200 system is very cool, btw. It is basically an
> electrical system in a box plus a whole lot more. I highly recommend
> the system. Makes wiring a snap!
>
> Components include:
>
> 3ea GRT Horizon I HX EFIS 3D Displays
> XM Weather Radar module for GRT HXs
> Vertical Power VP-200 power system
> Garmin SL-30 Nav/Com
> Garmin GTX-327 Transponder
> TruTrak DII VSGV Autopilot
> Matronics FuelChex DX
> Kenwood DNX-8120 Entertainment w/ XM and Nav
>
> Yahoo!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Full Glass Panel... |
The GPS is an externally mounted unit from GRT and doesn't get mounted in the panel.
I haven't received it yet from GRT. Probably should have a secondary,
but I'm low on panel space...
The forward facing instrument is the GRT EIS4000 engine monitor. All of the display
is done through the RS232 link to the HX EFIS displays. I mounted it with
the face into the baggage area just in case I had to access the buttons someday,
but for normal ops, no access to its front panel is necessary.
Matt
At 06:50 PM 1/1/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>
>Not being familiar with all the glass panel stuff I have two questions. I
>was looking in the list of equipment for something that said "GPS...
>something" and I don't see it. Also in the photos I see a glass with
>buttons that is facing forward into where nobody could see it. What is that
>one?
>
>Tim Bryan
>RV-6 Flying
>N616TB over 120 hours now
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
>> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
>> Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 11:57 AM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Full Glass Panel...
>>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> The panel on the RV-8 got the first power up today. I interconnected
>> all of the major instrument panel devices to the Vertical Power VP-200
>> electrical system and powered everything up. In the center screen, you
>> can see Mt Diablo in California. I was playing back a flight from a
>> portable GPS I use in the rental plane. Notice the top of the mountain
>> is RED which means that its above our current altitude (from the
>> playback). The Kenwood is playing a James Bond movie...
>>
>> The Vertical Power VP-200 system is very cool, btw. It is basically an
>> electrical system in a box plus a whole lot more. I highly recommend
>> the system. Makes wiring a snap!
>>
>> Components include:
>>
>> 3ea GRT Horizon I HX EFIS 3D Displays
>> XM Weather Radar module for GRT HXs
>> Vertical Power VP-200 power system
>> Garmin SL-30 Nav/Com
>> Garmin GTX-327 Transponder
>> TruTrak DII VSGV Autopilot
>> Matronics FuelChex DX
>> Kenwood DNX-8120 Entertainment w/ XM and Nav
>>
>> Yahoo!
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Full Glass Panel... |
That is an amazing use of glass. I don't know your intent ala IFR flying
but it would seem that you have ignored GPS approaches. The SL30
will provide VOR and ILS which is a lot but with GPS approaches now
outnumbering ILS, did you just decide to forego GPS approaches or
is there a certified GPS approach unit that I missed.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
Check to make sure all your primer port pipe plugs are tight. Last year I
had a Saratoga I worked on with an intake leak, found that a pipe plug was
missing on one of the cylinder primer ports.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On Wed, Dec 31, 2008 at 10:09 PM, RICHARD MILLER wrote:
>
> it is time to get the guages out check the unregulated fuel pressure and
> the regulated fuel pressure, also check the you don't have an internel leak
> in the servo. but i would still bet it is an intake leak. spray all of the
> connections with wd-40 and see if you get an increase in rpm.
>
> rick
>
>
> --- On Wed, 12/31/08, DEAN PSIROPOULOS
> wrote:
>
> > From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
> > Subject: RV-List: Lousy idle
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Wednesday, December 31, 2008, 12:39 PM
> > PSIROPOULOS"
> >
> > Anyone have a few words of wisdom for me:
> >
> > I'm pulling my hair out over a crappy engine idle that
> > I can't seem to tame.
> > The basic problem is that I'll start the engine and it
> > fires right up and
> > runs at about 700-750 RPM just like the book says it
> > should. But from
> > there, all it seems to want to do is gradually idle slower
> > and slower as the
> > engine warms up until it barely runs (between 450-500 RPM)
> > by the time I've
> > done all my checks and am ready to take the runway for
> > takeoff.
> >
> >
> > The engine is a new Mattituck built TMX-IO360 Lycoming
> > clone with Lightspeed
> > electronic ignition on one side and a magneto on the other.
> > It also has
> > Airflow Performance fuel injection with purge valve, a
> > Sterba wood prop and
> > Mark Landoll's 11 pound steel inertia ring bolted to
> > the flywheel. The
> > configuration is updraft with the AFP fuel controller
> > bolted to the bottom
> > of the sump (like carbureted engines) and uses Van's
> > airbox. I've read the
> > AFP manual and talked to the tech there and adjusted the
> > idle mixture and
> > stop numerous times but I can't seem to stabilize it.
> > When I have the
> > cowling off, I make the adjustments and taxi around a bit
> > to warm up the
> > engine and it seems to be ok. Then I'll put the
> > cowling back on and the
> > symptoms seem to reappear. There isn't anything
> > banging against the cowling
> > that I can see that would be causing trouble so I'm
> > totally stumped!
> >
> > Anyone else having this problem? I'm flying out of a
> > long but narrow strip
> > with trees on three side and no good places to land near
> > the airport.
> > Needless to say it makes me nervous, even though the engine
> > runs strong just
> > off idle and at full power. Thanks.
> >
> > Dean Psiropoulos
> > RV-6A N197DM
> > 4.1 hours
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Good thought Bob,
What should be used as a thread sealant?
Getting ready to do some engine idling myself this weekend - knowing the engine
can idle where it needs to is a very good thing.....especially, short-final.....next
weekend it's refresher training.
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 0 flight hrs
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Jan 2, 2009 10:31 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lousy idle
>
>Check to make sure all your primer port pipe plugs are tight. Last year I
>had a Saratoga I worked on with an intake leak, found that a pipe plug was
>missing on one of the cylinder primer ports.
>
>Regards,
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
>On Wed, Dec 31, 2008 at 10:09 PM, RICHARD MILLER wrote:
>
>>
>> it is time to get the guages out check the unregulated fuel pressure and
>> the regulated fuel pressure, also check the you don't have an internel leak
>> in the servo. but i would still bet it is an intake leak. spray all of the
>> connections with wd-40 and see if you get an increase in rpm.
>>
>> rick
>>
>>
>> --- On Wed, 12/31/08, DEAN PSIROPOULOS
>> wrote:
>>
>> > From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
>> > Subject: RV-List: Lousy idle
>> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> > Date: Wednesday, December 31, 2008, 12:39 PM
>> > PSIROPOULOS"
>> >
>> > Anyone have a few words of wisdom for me:
>> >
>> > I'm pulling my hair out over a crappy engine idle that
>> > I can't seem to tame.
>> > The basic problem is that I'll start the engine and it
>> > fires right up and
>> > runs at about 700-750 RPM just like the book says it
>> > should. But from
>> > there, all it seems to want to do is gradually idle slower
>> > and slower as the
>> > engine warms up until it barely runs (between 450-500 RPM)
>> > by the time I've
>> > done all my checks and am ready to take the runway for
>> > takeoff.
>> >
>> >
>> > The engine is a new Mattituck built TMX-IO360 Lycoming
>> > clone with Lightspeed
>> > electronic ignition on one side and a magneto on the other.
>> > It also has
>> > Airflow Performance fuel injection with purge valve, a
>> > Sterba wood prop and
>> > Mark Landoll's 11 pound steel inertia ring bolted to
>> > the flywheel. The
>> > configuration is updraft with the AFP fuel controller
>> > bolted to the bottom
>> > of the sump (like carbureted engines) and uses Van's
>> > airbox. I've read the
>> > AFP manual and talked to the tech there and adjusted the
>> > idle mixture and
>> > stop numerous times but I can't seem to stabilize it.
>> > When I have the
>> > cowling off, I make the adjustments and taxi around a bit
>> > to warm up the
>> > engine and it seems to be ok. Then I'll put the
>> > cowling back on and the
>> > symptoms seem to reappear. There isn't anything
>> > banging against the cowling
>> > that I can see that would be causing trouble so I'm
>> > totally stumped!
>> >
>> > Anyone else having this problem? I'm flying out of a
>> > long but narrow strip
>> > with trees on three side and no good places to land near
>> > the airport.
>> > Needless to say it makes me nervous, even though the engine
>> > runs strong just
>> > off idle and at full power. Thanks.
>> >
>> > Dean Psiropoulos
>> > RV-6A N197DM
>> > 4.1 hours
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
I use Titeseal medium on pipe threads, and I've never had one leak. I even
rub gaskets with it. Never, ever, ever put a gasket on dry. You'll
appreciate it when a gasket's been on something for a few years and you
don't have to scrape it off to remove it.
Ralph keep your idling to a minimum. The longer you idle the engine before
first flight the longer it will take to get your rings seated.
Regards,
Bob Japundza A&P
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 11:18 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> Good thought Bob,
>
> What should be used as a thread sealant?
>
> Getting ready to do some engine idling myself this weekend - knowing the
> engine can idle where it needs to is a very good thing.....especially,
> short-final.....next weekend it's refresher training.
>
> Ralph
> RV6A N822AR @ N06 0 flight hrs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
> >Sent: Jan 2, 2009 10:31 AM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Lousy idle
> >
> >Check to make sure all your primer port pipe plugs are tight. Last year I
> >had a Saratoga I worked on with an intake leak, found that a pipe plug was
> >missing on one of the cylinder primer ports.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Bob Japundza
> >RV-6 flying F1 under const.
> >
> >On Wed, Dec 31, 2008 at 10:09 PM, RICHARD MILLER >wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> it is time to get the guages out check the unregulated fuel pressure and
> >> the regulated fuel pressure, also check the you don't have an internel
> leak
> >> in the servo. but i would still bet it is an intake leak. spray all of
> the
> >> connections with wd-40 and see if you get an increase in rpm.
> >>
> >> rick
> >>
> >>
> >> --- On Wed, 12/31/08, DEAN PSIROPOULOS
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> > From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
> >> > Subject: RV-List: Lousy idle
> >> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >> > Date: Wednesday, December 31, 2008, 12:39 PM
> >> > PSIROPOULOS"
> >> >
> >> > Anyone have a few words of wisdom for me:
> >> >
> >> > I'm pulling my hair out over a crappy engine idle that
> >> > I can't seem to tame.
> >> > The basic problem is that I'll start the engine and it
> >> > fires right up and
> >> > runs at about 700-750 RPM just like the book says it
> >> > should. But from
> >> > there, all it seems to want to do is gradually idle slower
> >> > and slower as the
> >> > engine warms up until it barely runs (between 450-500 RPM)
> >> > by the time I've
> >> > done all my checks and am ready to take the runway for
> >> > takeoff.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > The engine is a new Mattituck built TMX-IO360 Lycoming
> >> > clone with Lightspeed
> >> > electronic ignition on one side and a magneto on the other.
> >> > It also has
> >> > Airflow Performance fuel injection with purge valve, a
> >> > Sterba wood prop and
> >> > Mark Landoll's 11 pound steel inertia ring bolted to
> >> > the flywheel. The
> >> > configuration is updraft with the AFP fuel controller
> >> > bolted to the bottom
> >> > of the sump (like carbureted engines) and uses Van's
> >> > airbox. I've read the
> >> > AFP manual and talked to the tech there and adjusted the
> >> > idle mixture and
> >> > stop numerous times but I can't seem to stabilize it.
> >> > When I have the
> >> > cowling off, I make the adjustments and taxi around a bit
> >> > to warm up the
> >> > engine and it seems to be ok. Then I'll put the
> >> > cowling back on and the
> >> > symptoms seem to reappear. There isn't anything
> >> > banging against the cowling
> >> > that I can see that would be causing trouble so I'm
> >> > totally stumped!
> >> >
> >> > Anyone else having this problem? I'm flying out of a
> >> > long but narrow strip
> >> > with trees on three side and no good places to land near
> >> > the airport.
> >> > Needless to say it makes me nervous, even though the engine
> >> > runs strong just
> >> > off idle and at full power. Thanks.
> >> >
> >> > Dean Psiropoulos
> >> > RV-6A N197DM
> >> > 4.1 hours
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks - good idea - I just want to know that it will idle at an appropriate RPM
- 700 or so.
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Jan 2, 2009 11:58 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Lousy idle
>
>I use Titeseal medium on pipe threads, and I've never had one leak. I even
>rub gaskets with it. Never, ever, ever put a gasket on dry. You'll
>appreciate it when a gasket's been on something for a few years and you
>don't have to scrape it off to remove it.
>
>Ralph keep your idling to a minimum. The longer you idle the engine before
>first flight the longer it will take to get your rings seated.
>
>Regards,
>Bob Japundza A&P
>RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
>On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 11:18 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>>
>> Good thought Bob,
>>
>> What should be used as a thread sealant?
>>
>> Getting ready to do some engine idling myself this weekend - knowing the
>> engine can idle where it needs to is a very good thing.....especially,
>> short-final.....next weekend it's refresher training.
>>
>> Ralph
>> RV6A N822AR @ N06 0 flight hrs
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
>> >Sent: Jan 2, 2009 10:31 AM
>> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Lousy idle
>> >
>> >Check to make sure all your primer port pipe plugs are tight. Last year I
>> >had a Saratoga I worked on with an intake leak, found that a pipe plug was
>> >missing on one of the cylinder primer ports.
>> >
>> >Regards,
>> >Bob Japundza
>> >RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>> >
>> >On Wed, Dec 31, 2008 at 10:09 PM, RICHARD MILLER > >wrote:
>> >
>> >>
>> >> it is time to get the guages out check the unregulated fuel pressure and
>> >> the regulated fuel pressure, also check the you don't have an internel
>> leak
>> >> in the servo. but i would still bet it is an intake leak. spray all of
>> the
>> >> connections with wd-40 and see if you get an increase in rpm.
>> >>
>> >> rick
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> --- On Wed, 12/31/08, DEAN PSIROPOULOS
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> > From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
>> >> > Subject: RV-List: Lousy idle
>> >> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> >> > Date: Wednesday, December 31, 2008, 12:39 PM
>> >> > PSIROPOULOS"
>> >> >
>> >> > Anyone have a few words of wisdom for me:
>> >> >
>> >> > I'm pulling my hair out over a crappy engine idle that
>> >> > I can't seem to tame.
>> >> > The basic problem is that I'll start the engine and it
>> >> > fires right up and
>> >> > runs at about 700-750 RPM just like the book says it
>> >> > should. But from
>> >> > there, all it seems to want to do is gradually idle slower
>> >> > and slower as the
>> >> > engine warms up until it barely runs (between 450-500 RPM)
>> >> > by the time I've
>> >> > done all my checks and am ready to take the runway for
>> >> > takeoff.
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > The engine is a new Mattituck built TMX-IO360 Lycoming
>> >> > clone with Lightspeed
>> >> > electronic ignition on one side and a magneto on the other.
>> >> > It also has
>> >> > Airflow Performance fuel injection with purge valve, a
>> >> > Sterba wood prop and
>> >> > Mark Landoll's 11 pound steel inertia ring bolted to
>> >> > the flywheel. The
>> >> > configuration is updraft with the AFP fuel controller
>> >> > bolted to the bottom
>> >> > of the sump (like carbureted engines) and uses Van's
>> >> > airbox. I've read the
>> >> > AFP manual and talked to the tech there and adjusted the
>> >> > idle mixture and
>> >> > stop numerous times but I can't seem to stabilize it.
>> >> > When I have the
>> >> > cowling off, I make the adjustments and taxi around a bit
>> >> > to warm up the
>> >> > engine and it seems to be ok. Then I'll put the
>> >> > cowling back on and the
>> >> > symptoms seem to reappear. There isn't anything
>> >> > banging against the cowling
>> >> > that I can see that would be causing trouble so I'm
>> >> > totally stumped!
>> >> >
>> >> > Anyone else having this problem? I'm flying out of a
>> >> > long but narrow strip
>> >> > with trees on three side and no good places to land near
>> >> > the airport.
>> >> > Needless to say it makes me nervous, even though the engine
>> >> > runs strong just
>> >> > off idle and at full power. Thanks.
>> >> >
>> >> > Dean Psiropoulos
>> >> > RV-6A N197DM
>> >> > 4.1 hours
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin 496/XM Weather Data MIA |
| From: | "rv8builder" <rv8builder(at)earthlink.net> |
I use my Garmin 496 with XM weather several timss per week.
I was able to get the XM weather data on 12/31/08.
Today (01/02/09), I was not able to retrieve the weather data. I called XM and
they made several attempts to 'turn on' my XM receiver to no avail.
I then thought that I had a hardware problem with the 496. A call to Garmin tech
support was made. The tech that I spoke with indicated that I was about the
20th call that she alone had taken just today. The Garmin tech sayes that this
is a XM problem and not a Garmin hardware problem.
The tech sayes that it may take a day or two for XM to sort out their problem.
(I say that they should go back to the software load that they had on the 31st!!)
Dale
--------
Dale
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222395#222395
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | GPS Serial Data to Garmin GTX-327 Transponder |
Listers,
I've tried sending two different sources of NMEA 0183 data at 4800/9600/19200/38400/57600
baud rates to my Garmin GTX-327 on both serial input ports 1 (db25
Pin 2) and port 2 (db25 pin 19), and configured for "GPS" input. But I don't
get anything on the GTX-327 serial input test display. I have been successful
at getting AirData Z-format from the GRT EFIS at 9600 baud into either of the
GTX-327 serial ports, so the ports are good. The NMEA 0183 data registers correctly
on other devices reading it so the GPS serial output seem fine. The GTX-327
just won't seem to see the GPS data for some reason.
Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone else tried this successfully?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 496/XM Weather Data MIA |
This sounds suspiciously like the leap year problem Microsoft had with their
Zune.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv8builder
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 10:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 496/XM Weather Data MIA
I use my Garmin 496 with XM weather several timss per week.
I was able to get the XM weather data on 12/31/08.
Today (01/02/09), I was not able to retrieve the weather data. I called XM
and they made several attempts to 'turn on' my XM receiver to no avail.
I then thought that I had a hardware problem with the 496. A call to Garmin
tech support was made. The tech that I spoke with indicated that I was
about the 20th call that she alone had taken just today. The Garmin tech
sayes that this is a XM problem and not a Garmin hardware problem.
The tech sayes that it may take a day or two for XM to sort out their
problem. (I say that they should go back to the software load that they had
on the 31st!!)
Dale
--------
Dale
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222395#222395
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 496/XM Weather Data MIA |
There was a leap second added. Can't say that has any impact.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 11:47 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin 496/XM Weather Data MIA
>
> This sounds suspiciously like the leap year problem Microsoft had with
> their
> Zune.
>
> Terry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv8builder
> Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 10:21 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Garmin 496/XM Weather Data MIA
>
>
> I use my Garmin 496 with XM weather several timss per week.
>
> I was able to get the XM weather data on 12/31/08.
>
> Today (01/02/09), I was not able to retrieve the weather data. I called
> XM
> and they made several attempts to 'turn on' my XM receiver to no avail.
>
> I then thought that I had a hardware problem with the 496. A call to
> Garmin
> tech support was made. The tech that I spoke with indicated that I was
> about the 20th call that she alone had taken just today. The Garmin tech
> sayes that this is a XM problem and not a Garmin hardware problem.
>
> The tech sayes that it may take a day or two for XM to sort out their
> problem. (I say that they should go back to the software load that they
> had
> on the 31st!!)
>
>
> Dale
>
> --------
> Dale
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222395#222395
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS Serial Data to Garmin GTX-327 Transponder |
Why would you send GPS data to a Mode A/C transponder? It only transmits
a reply with altitude data from encoder. Just wondering if there is some
feature to the GTX327 that is unique besides acting as a backup up
altimeter and timer? Guess I am clueless about what you are trying to do.
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I've tried sending two different sources of NMEA 0183 data at 4800/9600/19200/38400/57600
baud rates to my Garmin GTX-327 on both serial input ports 1 (db25
Pin 2) and port 2 (db25 pin 19), and configured for "GPS" input. But I don't
get anything on the GTX-327 serial input test display. I have been successful
at getting AirData Z-format from the GRT EFIS at 9600 baud into either of the
GTX-327 serial ports, so the ports are good. The NMEA 0183 data registers
correctly on other devices reading it so the GPS serial output seem fine. The
GTX-327 just won't seem to see the GPS data for some reason.
>
> Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone else tried this successfully?
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | GPS Serial Data to Garmin GTX-327 Transponder |
Because you can have the Txpdr automatically go from STBY into ALT and back
to STBY when it has a GPS signal to it...which is what I missed in Matt's
first post (Sorry Matt - I thought you were only looking for the AltEnc
data, not the GPS data). I don't know as you'll see anything in test mode
though, even if it is hooked up right.
So, in your setup you should have a line running from the GRT to the Txpdr
RS-232 channel for AltEnc data and another line RS-232 line for GPS
data....sorry about the missed replay earlier!
Cheers,
Stein
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
>Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 3:11 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: GPS Serial Data to Garmin GTX-327 Transponder
>
>
>Why would you send GPS data to a Mode A/C transponder? It only transmits
>a reply with altitude data from encoder. Just wondering if there is some
>feature to the GTX327 that is unique besides acting as a backup up
>altimeter and timer? Guess I am clueless about what you are trying to do.
>
>Matt Dralle wrote:
>>
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>> I've tried sending two different sources of NMEA 0183 data at
>4800/9600/19200/38400/57600 baud rates to my Garmin GTX-327 on
>both serial input ports 1 (db25 Pin 2) and port 2 (db25 pin 19),
>and configured for "GPS" input. But I don't get anything on the
>GTX-327 serial input test display. I have been successful at
>getting AirData Z-format from the GRT EFIS at 9600 baud into
>either of the GTX-327 serial ports, so the ports are good. The
>NMEA 0183 data registers correctly on other devices reading it so
>the GPS serial output seem fine. The GTX-327 just won't seem to
>see the GPS data for some reason.
>>
>> Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone else tried this successfully?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cknauf(at)comcast.net |
Hello all,
I was wondering if anyone was interested in loaning me their B-crimp open barrel
and/or faston/ring terminal crimp tools. I would also be interested in borrowing
a swaging tool to crimp the cables supporting my AWI 4-into-1 exhaust.
In/around the Twin Cities is preferred but I can also send my FedEx account number
for shipping.
I would have the swaging tool back within the day and hopefully the pressure of
possessing some else's crimpers would be exactly the motivation I need to push
through this wiring phase.
Thanks,
Chris Knauf
N707HK
Hello all,
I was wondering
if anyone was interested in loaning me their B-crimp open barrel and/or faston/ring
terminal crimp tools. I would also be interested in borrowing a
swaging tool to crimp the cables supporting my AWI 4-into-1 exhaust. In/around
the Twin Cities is preferred but I can also send my FedEx account number
for shipping.
I would
have the swaging tool back within the day and hopefully the pressure of possessing
some else's crimpers would be exactly the motivation I need to push through
this wiring phase.
Thanks,
Chris Knauf
N707HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tool exchange? |
cknauf(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I was wondering if anyone was interested in loaning me their B-crimp
> open barrel and/or faston/ring terminal crimp tools. I would also be
> interested in borrowing a swaging tool to crimp the cables supporting
> my AWI 4-into-1 exhaust. In/around the Twin Cities is preferred but
> I can also send my FedEx account number for shipping.
>
> I would have the swaging tool back within the day and hopefully the
> pressure of possessing some else's crimpers would be exactly the
> motivation I need to push through this wiring phase.
>
> Thanks, Chris Knauf N707HK
These are tools you need in your shop and aren't very expensive. An
inexpensive swager is here:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=9893/index.html
B& C Specialty has a selection of reasonably priced crimpers:
http://www.bandc.biz/index.html
You will need these tools more than one time. :-)
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pltdbeezer(at)aol.com |
If it only does it with the cowling on could be getting fuel vaporizing in the
lines.?
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob J. <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Fri, 2 Jan 2009 9:31 am
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lousy idle
Check to make sure all your primer port pipe plugs are tight.? Last year I had
a Saratoga I worked on with an intake leak, found that a pipe plug was missing
on one of the cylinder primer ports.?
?
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On Wed, Dec 31, 2008 at 10:09 PM, RICHARD MILLER wrote:
it is time to get the guages out check the unregulated fuel pressure and the regulated
fuel pressure, also check the you don't have an internel leak in the servo.
but i would still bet it is an intake leak. spray all of the connections
with wd-40 and see if you get an increase in rpm.
rick
--- On Wed, 12/31/08, DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
> From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Lousy idle
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, December 31, 2008, 12:39 PM
> PSIROPOULOS"
>
> Anyone have a few words of wisdom for me:
>
> I'm pulling my hair out over a crappy engine idle that
> I can't seem to tame.
> The basic problem is that I'll start the engine and it
> fires right up and
> runs at about 700-750 RPM just like the book says it
> should. ?But from
> there, all it seems to want to do is gradually idle slower
> and slower as the
> engine warms up until it barely runs (between 450-500 RPM)
> by the time I've
> done all my checks and am ready to take the runway for
> takeoff.
>
>
> The engine is a new Mattituck built TMX-IO360 Lycoming
> clone with Lightspeed
> electronic ignition on one side and a magneto on the other.
> ?It also has
> Airflow Performance fuel injection with purge valve, a
> Sterba wood prop and
> Mark Landoll's 11 pound steel inertia ring bolted to
> the flywheel. ?The
> configuration is updraft with the AFP fuel controller
> bolted to the bottom
> of the sump (like carbureted engines) and uses Van's
> airbox. ?I've read the
> AFP manual and talked to the tech there and adjusted the
> idle mixture and
> stop numerous times but I can't seem to stabilize it.
> When I have the
> cowling off, I make the adjustments and taxi around a bit
> to warm up the
> engine and it seems to be ok. ?Then I'll put the
> cowling back on and the
> symptoms seem to reappear. ?There isn't anything
> banging against the cowling
> that I can see that would be causing trouble so I'm
> totally stumped!
>
> Anyone else having this problem? I'm flying out of a
> long but narrow strip
> with trees on three side and no good places to land near
> the airport.
> Needless to say it makes me nervous, even though the engine
> runs strong just
> off idle and at full power. ?Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> 4.1 hours
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pltdbeezer(at)aol.com |
If it only idles bad with the cowling on it could be fuel vaporizing in the
lines
-----Original Message-----
From: William Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 5:48 pm
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lousy idle
Might be safer to leave the engine off, blow shop vacuum cleaner air into th
e intake, spray soapy water on the intake plumbing and look for bubbles.
=C2-I have never done this, but it sounds like it might work, pinpoint the
leak more precisely, and there is no prop blast and extreme danger of loss
of limb or life involved. =C2-We have a one-armed mechanic around here who
stumbled into a running engine in the service hangar while setting the mag
timing. =C2-Be careful.
-Stormy
On Dec 31, 2008, at 5:51 PM, Mike Robertson wrote:
Dean,
=C2-
It sounds like you have an intake leak.=C2- A reason it gets worse with th
e cowling on is that there is warmer air inside the cowling.=C2- Without t
he cowling the surrounding air stays the same temp.=C2- May I suggest you
get a spray water bottle.=C2- With the engine running, carefully spray all
the intake connections and see what happens.=C2- If there is an intake le
ak=C2-the engine=C2-should stutter.=C2- If that does not work give me
a call.=C2- I think you still have my cell phone number.
=C2-
Also, we are flying down to your neck of the woods on=C2-january 10th for
a week in Orlando at out timeshare.=C2- maybe we can get together.
=C2-
Mike Robert
son=C2-
> Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 15:39:06 -0500
> From:=C2-dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net
> Subject: RV-List: Lousy idle
> To:=C2-rv-list(at)matronics.com
>=C2-
n.net>
>=C2-
> Anyone have a few words of wisdom for me:
>=C2-
> I'm pulling my hair out over a crappy engine idle that I can't seem to tam
e.
> The basic problem is that I'll start the engine and it fires right up and
> runs at about 700-750 RPM just like the book says it should. But from
> there, all it seems to want to do is gradually idle slower and slower as t
he
> engine warms up until it barely runs (between 450-500 RPM) by the time I'v
e
> done all my checks and am ready to take the runway for takeoff.=C2-
>=C2-
>=C2-
> The engine is a new Mattituck built TMX-IO360 Lycoming clone with Lightspe
ed
> electronic ignition on one side and a magneto on the other. It also has
> Airflow Performance fuel injection with purge valve, a Sterba wood prop an
d
> Mark Landoll's 11 pound steel inertia ring bolted to the flywheel. The
> configuration is updraft with the AFP fuel controller bolted to the bottom
> of the sump (like carbureted engines) and uses Van's airbox. I've read the
> AFP manual and talked to the tech there and adjusted the idle mixture and
> stop numerous times but I can't seem to stabilize it. When I have the
> cowling off, I make the adjustments and taxi around a bit to warm up the
> engine and it seems to be ok. Then I'l
l put the cowling back on and the
> symptoms seem to reappear. There isn't anything banging against the cowlin
g
> that I can see that would be causing trouble so I'm totally stumped!
>=C2-
> Anyone else having this problem? I'm flying out of a long but narrow strip
> with trees on three side and no good places to land near the airport.
> Needless to say it makes me nervous, even though the engine runs strong ju
st
> off idle and at full power. Thanks.
>=C2-
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> 4.1 hours
>=C2-
&=======
>=C2-
>=C2-
>=C2-
Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills.=C2-Get your Hotma
il=C2=AE account.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://for
ums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
=============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tool exchange? |
I have both but am in CA. Let me know if you strike out with "closer by"
sources and I can get them off to you if you like.
-N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 908hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
In a message dated 1/2/2009 4:04:59 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
cknauf(at)comcast.net writes:
I was wondering if anyone was interested in loaning me their B-crimp open
barrel and/or faston/ring terminal crimp tools. I would also be interested in
borrowing a swaging tool to crimp the cables supporting my AWI 4-into-1
exhaust. In/around the Twin Cities is preferred but I can also send my FedEx
account number for shipping.
**************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
I would suspect an intake leak that gets worse as the engine warms up.
Linn
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
> Anyone have a few words of wisdom for me:
>
> I'm pulling my hair out over a crappy engine idle that I can't seem to tame.
> The basic problem is that I'll start the engine and it fires right up and
> runs at about 700-750 RPM just like the book says it should. But from
> there, all it seems to want to do is gradually idle slower and slower as the
> engine warms up until it barely runs (between 450-500 RPM) by the time I've
> done all my checks and am ready to take the runway for takeoff.
>
>
> The engine is a new Mattituck built TMX-IO360 Lycoming clone with Lightspeed
> electronic ignition on one side and a magneto on the other. It also has
> Airflow Performance fuel injection with purge valve, a Sterba wood prop and
> Mark Landoll's 11 pound steel inertia ring bolted to the flywheel. The
> configuration is updraft with the AFP fuel controller bolted to the bottom
> of the sump (like carbureted engines) and uses Van's airbox. I've read the
> AFP manual and talked to the tech there and adjusted the idle mixture and
> stop numerous times but I can't seem to stabilize it. When I have the
> cowling off, I make the adjustments and taxi around a bit to warm up the
> engine and it seems to be ok. Then I'll put the cowling back on and the
> symptoms seem to reappear. There isn't anything banging against the cowling
> that I can see that would be causing trouble so I'm totally stumped!
>
> Anyone else having this problem? I'm flying out of a long but narrow strip
> with trees on three side and no good places to land near the airport.
> Needless to say it makes me nervous, even though the engine runs strong just
> off idle and at full power. Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> 4.1 hours
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for Ken Beene |
Anyone know how to contact him - or forward this to him to cantact me.
I am looking for a PDF copy of the GX60 installation manual - he is listed
in the archives as having it at one time....
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
I Like it! Much better idea!!
Mike R.
ngine off=2C blow shop vacuum cleaner air into the intake=2C spray soapy wa
ter on the intake plumbing and look for bubbles. I have never done this=2C
but it sounds like it might work=2C pinpoint the leak more precisely=2C an
d there is no prop blast and extreme danger of loss of limb or life involve
d. We have a one-armed mechanic around here who stumbled into a running en
gine in the service hangar while setting the mag timing. Be careful.
-Stormy
On Dec 31=2C 2008=2C at 5:51 PM=2C Mike Robertson wrote:
Dean=2C It sounds like you have an intake leak. A reason it gets worse wit
h the cowling on is that there is warmer air inside the cowling. Without t
he cowling the surrounding air stays the same temp. May I suggest you get
a spray water bottle. With the engine running=2C carefully spray all the i
ntake connections and see what happens. If there is an intake leak the eng
ine should stutter. If that does not work give me a call. I think you sti
ll have my cell phone number. Also=2C we are flying down to your neck of th
e woods on january 10th for a week in Orlando at out timeshare. maybe we c
an get together. Mike Robertson > Date: Wed=2C 31 Dec 2008 15:39:06 -0500>
From: dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> Subject: RV-List: Lousy idle> To: rv-li
.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>> > Anyone have a few words of wisdom for me:> > I
'm pulling my hair out over a crappy engine idle that I can't seem to tame.
> The basic problem is that I'll start the engine and it fires right up and
> runs at about 700-750 RPM just like the book says it should. But from> th
ere=2C all it seems to want to do is gradually idle slower and slower as th
e> engine warms up until it barely runs (between 450-500 RPM) by the time I
've> done all my checks and am ready to take the runway for takeoff. > > >
The engine is a new Mattituck built TMX-IO360 Lycoming clone with Lightspee
d> electronic ignition on one side and a magneto on the other. It also has>
Airflow Performance fuel injection with purge valve=2C a Sterba wood prop
and> Mark Landoll's 11 pound steel inertia ring bolted to the flywheel. The
> configuration is updraft with the AFP fuel controller bolted to the botto
m> of the sump (like carbureted engines) and uses Van's airbox. I've read t
he> AFP manual and talked to the tech there and adjusted the idle mixture a
nd> stop numerous times but I can't seem to stabilize it. When I have the>
cowling off=2C I make the adjustments and taxi around a bit to warm up the>
engine and it seems to be ok. Then I'll put the cowling back on and the> s
ymptoms seem to reappear. There isn't anything banging against the cowling>
that I can see that would be causing trouble so I'm totally stumped!> > An
yone else having this problem? I'm flying out of a long but narrow strip> w
ith trees on three side and no good places to land near the airport.> Needl
ess to say it makes me nervous=2C even though the engine runs strong just>
off idle and at full power. Thanks.> > Dean Psiropoulos> RV-6A N197DM> 4.1
hours> &========> > >
Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills. Get your Hotmail
=AE account.http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
_________________________________________________________________
Send e-mail anywhere. No map=2C no compass.
http://windowslive.com/oneline/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_anyw
here_122008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | RV-List_Lousy Idle |
Thanks all for your inputs:
I'll be exploring every avenue that has been mentioned just to be sure
(cheap things first then on to more expense). The intake leak seems to be a
big "seller" and I'm getting a bit of feedback on wood propellers causing
idle problems on the big four cyl Lycomings, especially with fuel injection
installed. Wish I'd known this sooner and I would have opted for the
Sensenich fixed pitch but it's nice to have all you folks out there with
your collective knowledge to get me going in the right direction. If anyone
else has some more thoughts please forward them to me so I can check all
possibilities.
If everything checks out ok and there are no engine related culprits, I've
decided I'll take the plunge and order a Sensenich prop. Problem is that it
takes several weeks to get one and I don't really want to wait. So...does
anyone already have a Sensenich prop and spacer laying around that they
won't be using for a few months(for 180 HP Lyc 0-360)? If so maybe I could
purchase it from you and have the one I order shipped to you when it's
ready. Just thinking ahead. Also, if I go ahead with the metal prop, I'll
be selling my 70x82 Sterba wood prop (carved in 2006), spacer, crush plate,
Landoll inertia ring and fitted spinner (painted silver) so if anyone wants
a wood prop for 0-360 Lyc let me know and we'll work out a price for all or
part of the assembly. Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List_Lousy Idle |
Why are you changing props for what is most likely a problem
in the engine? I have a wood prop on an O-360 and no problems
like you are having. I would find a competent mechanic to help
first.
Ron Lee
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 7:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-List_Lousy Idle
>
>
>
> Thanks all for your inputs:
>
> I'll be exploring every avenue that has been mentioned just to be sure
> (cheap things first then on to more expense). The intake leak seems to be
> a
> big "seller" and I'm getting a bit of feedback on wood propellers causing
> idle problems on the big four cyl Lycomings, especially with fuel
> injection
> installed. Wish I'd known this sooner and I would have opted for the
> Sensenich fixed pitch but it's nice to have all you folks out there with
> your collective knowledge to get me going in the right direction. If
> anyone
> else has some more thoughts please forward them to me so I can check all
> possibilities.
>
> If everything checks out ok and there are no engine related culprits, I've
> decided I'll take the plunge and order a Sensenich prop. Problem is that
> it
> takes several weeks to get one and I don't really want to wait. So...does
> anyone already have a Sensenich prop and spacer laying around that they
> won't be using for a few months(for 180 HP Lyc 0-360)? If so maybe I
> could
> purchase it from you and have the one I order shipped to you when it's
> ready. Just thinking ahead. Also, if I go ahead with the metal prop, I'll
> be selling my 70x82 Sterba wood prop (carved in 2006), spacer, crush
> plate,
> Landoll inertia ring and fitted spinner (painted silver) so if anyone
> wants
> a wood prop for 0-360 Lyc let me know and we'll work out a price for all
> or
> part of the assembly. Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List_Lousy Idle |
Dean,
I don't see how a wood prop could cause idle problems unless you have the
speed set too low. What is the idle speed of your engine? If it is below
700 RPM, it might be a factor.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 9:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-List_Lousy Idle
>
>
>
> Thanks all for your inputs:
>
> I'll be exploring every avenue that has been mentioned just to be sure
> (cheap things first then on to more expense). The intake leak seems to be
> a
> big "seller" and I'm getting a bit of feedback on wood propellers causing
> idle problems on the big four cyl Lycomings, especially with fuel
> injection
> installed. Wish I'd known this sooner and I would have opted for the
> Sensenich fixed pitch but it's nice to have all you folks out there with
> your collective knowledge to get me going in the right direction. If
> anyone
> else has some more thoughts please forward them to me so I can check all
> possibilities.
>
> If everything checks out ok and there are no engine related culprits, I've
> decided I'll take the plunge and order a Sensenich prop. Problem is that
> it
> takes several weeks to get one and I don't really want to wait. So...does
> anyone already have a Sensenich prop and spacer laying around that they
> won't be using for a few months(for 180 HP Lyc 0-360)? If so maybe I
> could
> purchase it from you and have the one I order shipped to you when it's
> ready. Just thinking ahead. Also, if I go ahead with the metal prop, I'll
> be selling my 70x82 Sterba wood prop (carved in 2006), spacer, crush
> plate,
> Landoll inertia ring and fitted spinner (painted silver) so if anyone
> wants
> a wood prop for 0-360 Lyc let me know and we'll work out a price for all
> or
> part of the assembly. Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor" <davist(at)xsinet.co.za> |
| Subject: | Double-sided Tape |
The mails regarding using double-sided tape to hold the tab in place
when bending refer.
However it seems futile to chase Van's hit and miss method when there is
a far simpler and quicker method. This worked for me:
Take a 3/4" thick plank, trace out the "V" that the tab end makes on the
face of the plank, leaving a 2" border on the sides and bottom of the
"V" ( the top end of the "V" is flush with the forward end of the tab),
cut out this "V", insert the trim tab into the "V" cutout and pinch it
in place with the other end of the cutout triangle. Put a clamp across
the ends of the plank to hold the tab nice and snugly and bend at will
without any slipping. I found a bit of masking tape applied to the
surface of the tab prevented any scratches and aided in the clamping.
Running a rivet gun along the bend gives it a nice straight even finish.
Drill the holes for the rivets with the tab still in the clamped
position for accuracy.
Hope this helps
Trevor Davis RV-7
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <n142ds(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Zaon XRX - mounted |
I finally got the XRX mounted and out of my sight-line!! Works great and
you don't have that ugly on the top of the panel. Use a RAM mount to mount
if off the baggage compartment wall. Has a good view of the sky in all
directions and feeds into my new GRT screens. I've finally gotten the
web-site updated (had to learn new software)..you can see the photos under
the What's New tab on the web-site www.n142ds.com.
Oh .. if the web-site doesn't display properly .. I'm still learning! :-)
Thanks for all the suggestions from the group.
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List_Lousy Idle |
I have a 13 pound composite prop (wood overlayed with glass) on my O-360 and it
idles just fine. I seriously doubt that your idle problem is prop related. Why
add 30 or 40 pounds or more to your airplane if not necessary?
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 535 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 3, 2009 6:49:17 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV-List: RV-List_Lousy Idle
Thanks all for your inputs:
I'll be exploring every avenue that has been mentioned just to be sure
(cheap things first then on to more expense). The intake leak seems to be a
big "seller" and I'm getting a bit of feedback on wood propellers causing
idle problems on the big four cyl Lycomings, especially with fuel injection
installed. Wish I'd known this sooner and I would have opted for the
Sensenich fixed pitch but it's nice to have all you folks out there with
your collective knowledge to get me going in the right direction. If anyone
else has some more thoughts please forward them to me so I can check all
possibilities.
If everything checks out ok and there are no engine related culprits, I've
decided I'll take the plunge and order a Sensenich prop. Problem is that it
takes several weeks to get one and I don't really want to wait. So...does
anyone already have a Sensenich prop and spacer laying around that they
won't be using for a few months(for 180 HP Lyc 0-360)? If so maybe I could
purchase it from you and have the one I order shipped to you when it's
ready. Just thinking ahead. Also, if I go ahead with the metal prop, I'll
be selling my 70x82 Sterba wood prop (carved in 2006), spacer, crush plate,
Landoll inertia ring and fitted spinner (painted silver) so if anyone wants
a wood prop for 0-360 Lyc let me know and we'll work out a price for all or
part of the assembly. Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-List_Lousy Idle |
Dean=2C
I don't think it is the prop.
I am going to be in Orlando next week. I don't have your number anymore. G
ive me a call at (509) 998-1793.
Mike Robertson
> Date: Sat=2C 3 Jan 2009 21:49:17 -0500> From: dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.ne
t> Subject: RV-List: RV-List_Lousy Idle> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com> > --> R
V-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
> > > Thanks all for your inputs:> > I'll be exploring every avenue that ha
s been mentioned just to be sure> (cheap things first then on to more expen
se). The intake leak seems to be a> big "seller" and I'm getting a bit of f
eedback on wood propellers causing> idle problems on the big four cyl Lycom
ings=2C especially with fuel injection> installed. Wish I'd known this soon
er and I would have opted for the> Sensenich fixed pitch but it's nice to h
ave all you folks out there with> your collective knowledge to get me going
in the right direction. If anyone> else has some more thoughts please forw
ard them to me so I can check all> possibilities.> > If everything checks o
ut ok and there are no engine related culprits=2C I've> decided I'll take t
he plunge and order a Sensenich prop. Problem is that it> takes several wee
ks to get one and I don't really want to wait. So...does> anyone already ha
ve a Sensenich prop and spacer laying around that they> won't be using for
a few months(for 180 HP Lyc 0-360)? If so maybe I could> purchase it from y
ou and have the one I order shipped to you when it's> ready. Just thinking
ahead. Also=2C if I go ahead with the metal prop=2C I'll> be selling my 70x
82 Sterba wood prop (carved in 2006)=2C spacer=2C crush plate=2C> Landoll i
nertia ring and fitted spinner (painted silver) so if anyone wants> a
_________________________________________________________________
Life on your PC is safer=2C easier=2C and more enjoyable with Windows Vista
=AE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine warning parameters |
Folks,
I am configuring my engine monitor system (AFS3400EM) in preparation for first
flight.
The engine configuration is as follows:
IO360B1F6 with 9.2:1 pistons, AFP injection, LASAR ignition, Vetterman dual crossover
exhaust system with heaterboxes/mufflers, and MT 3 blade CS prop (MTV12B
183-59) within a SamJames cowl and engine cooling plenum. The oil cooler is
behind the #4 (left rear) cylinder and the cabin heat take-off is behind the
#3 (right rear) cylinder - the cabin heat take-off will need to constantly flow
air to cool the mufflers/heaterboxes per Vetterman. Manifold pressure port
is on #2 (left front) cylinder. CHT sensors are mounted on the underside of the
cylinder heads in the provided threaded ports. EGT sensors are all mounted
approximately 2" below the interface flange for the exhaust pipes through a hole
in the exhaust pipes - the variance between cylinders in mounting distance
should be less than 1/4". I do understand that the mounting distance can influence
the temperature reading - some of my pipes barely allowed this distance
before bending.
I have performed brief idle testing to determine low idle capabilities and have
idled as low as 550RPM. The low idle stop is currently set for 700 RPM. Other
than the factory run time, I have just under an hour on the hobbs meter.
The Engine monitor has multiple warning points and I would like to set them up
for optimal warning capabilities.
Oil pressure Max, Min (0?), High yellow warn, High red warn, Low yellow warn,
Low red warn
Oil temperature Max, Min (0?), High yellow warn, High red warn, Low yellow warn,
Low red warn
Fuel pressure Max, Min (0?), High yellow warn, High red warn, Low yellow warn,
Low red warn
Fuel flow Max, Min (0?), High yellow warn, High red warn, Low yellow warn,
Low red warn
RPM Max, Min (0?), High yellow warn, High red warn, with mid-bands
to accomodate
propellor operating restrictions (according to MT, I don't have any)
Manifold pressure Max, Min (0?), High yellow warn, High red warn
CHT Max, Min (87? - lowest seen even with 0 ambient), High yellow
warn, High red warn
EGT Max, Min (87? - lowest seen even with 0 ambient), High yellow
warn, High red warn
Can you provide suggested numbers to put in to my engine monitor for these warning/operating
parameters?
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
| Subject: | Spinner Template |
I have seen numerous references to a constant speed spinner cut-out templat
e - supposedly located somewhere on the web.
I have searched in all the usual places in an attempt to locate it - with z
ero success.
Can anyone provide the link? I have a new Hartzell prop.
The -8A plans provide clear direction for drawing one by hand, but I want a
cross-check on my efforts. Seems to me that random mass distribution error
s introduced during the prop/spinner mounting process should nearly cancel
out or have minimal effect if one is very careful. However, this is one are
a where I want to do everything possible to eliminate vibration.
Paul Valovich
RV-8A N192NM Reserved (again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spinner Template |
Paul,
I have a drawing/tracing of the actual finished cut-outs in my Van's 6A spi
nner for a Hartzell prop. Can
fax to you if you would like.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: Valovich, Paul
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 11:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Spinner Template
I have seen numerous references to a constant speed spinner cut-out templ
ate - supposedly located somewhere on the web.
I have searched in all the usual places in an attempt to locate it - with
zero success.
Can anyone provide the link? I have a new Hartzell prop.
The -8A plans provide clear direction for drawing one by hand, but I want
a cross-check on my efforts. Seems to me that random mass distribution err
ors introduced during the prop/spinner mounting process should nearly cance
l out or have minimal effect if one is very careful. However, this is one a
rea where I want to do everything possible to eliminate vibration.
Paul Valovich
RV-8A N192NM Reserved (again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Spinner Template |
Not sure if this is the one you want but it is for the blended AF Hartzell
on my O-360 A1A. Others available on the Hartzell site.
Hope this helps!
Bill S
7a finishing
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 11:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: Spinner Template
I have seen numerous references to a constant speed spinner cut-out template
- supposedly located somewhere on the web.
I have searched in all the usual places in an attempt to locate it - with
zero success.
Can anyone provide the link? I have a new Hartzell prop.
The -8A plans provide clear direction for drawing one by hand, but I want a
cross-check on my efforts. Seems to me that random mass distribution errors
introduced during the prop/spinner mounting process should nearly cancel out
or have minimal effect if one is very careful. However, this is one area
where I want to do everything possible to eliminate vibration.
Paul Valovich
RV-8A N192NM Reserved (again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net> |
| Subject: | New to Fiberglass |
Any suggestions of videos, articles, DVDs on how-to fiberglass? The RV10
requires considerable fiberglass work and it is intimidating!
Thanks.
Wayne
Checked by AVG.
7:59 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <smitty(at)smittysrv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New to Fiberglass |
Here are a few sites and docs:
http://www.ultraligero.net/Cursos/diseno/Fiberglass.pdf
http://www.cafes.net/leo/RV-6/R-Fairing/R-Fairing.html
http://www.smittysrv.com/blog.asp?ID=13
Smitty
http://SmittysRV.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 8:16 AM
Subject: RV-List: New to Fiberglass
>
> Any suggestions of videos, articles, DVDs on how-to fiberglass? The RV10
> requires considerable fiberglass work and it is intimidating!
> Thanks.
>
> Wayne
>
>
> Checked by AVG.
> 7:59 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New to Fiberglass |
Wayne, Good fiberglass work is mostly in the prep work. I've built two Lancairs
and do composites everyday in my shop. I'm glad to provide advice and enjoy talking
with builders. Feel free to call anytime.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
www.carbonfibercomposites.net
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
--- On Sat, 1/10/09, Wayne Williams wrote:
> From: Wayne Williams <rwayne(at)gamewood.net>
> Subject: RV-List: New to Fiberglass
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, January 10, 2009, 9:16 AM
>
>
> Any suggestions of videos, articles, DVDs on how-to
> fiberglass? The RV10
> requires considerable fiberglass work and it is
> intimidating!
> Thanks.
>
> Wayne
>
>
> Checked by AVG.
> 7:59 PM
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Mortimore" <terry.mortimore(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Converting Conical to Dynafocal engine mount. |
Hi Gang:
Years ago a local fellow had a Lycoming crankcase Conical mount converted to
a Dynafocal mount. He has since moved and I have a email out to him.
In case he does not remember the name of the company that done the work,
does anybody here know who is capable of performing this conversion?
Thanks, Terry.
Terry Mortimore
426 McNabb Street Apt#4
Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
P6B 1Z3
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/12/09 |
Just in case, I have a friend who did the same thing. Company in Kansas I
believe. Will try to contact him for the name of the company.
Wally Hunt
Rockford, IL
RV-4 Finishing Kit
In a message dated 1/13/2009 2:16:49 A.M. Central Standard Time,
rv-list(at)matronics.com writes:
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
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Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
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of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter=2
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RV-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Mon 01/12/09: 1
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:14 AM - Converting Conical to Dynafocal engine mount. (Terry
Mortimore)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: "Terry Mortimore" <terry.mortimore(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Converting Conical to Dynafocal engine mount.
Hi Gang:
Years ago a local fellow had a Lycoming crankcase Conical mount converted to
a Dynafocal mount. He has since moved and I have a email out to him.
In case he does not remember the name of the company that done the work,
does anybody here know who is capable of performing this conversion?
Thanks, Terry.
Terry Mortimore
426 McNabb Street Apt#4
Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
P6B 1Z3
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
cemailfooterNO62)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sportypilot <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Converting Conical to Dynafocal engine mount. |
ECI does those, did a great job on mine, try eci2fly.com
Dan
Sent from cell
On Jan 12, 2009, at 10:11 AM, "Terry Mortimore"
wrote:
> >
>
> Hi Gang:
>
> Years ago a local fellow had a Lycoming crankcase Conical mount
> converted to a Dynafocal mount. He has since moved and I have a
> email out to him.
>
> In case he does not remember the name of the company that done the
> work, does anybody here know who is capable of performing this
> conversion?
>
>
> Thanks, Terry.
>
>
> Terry Mortimore
> 426 McNabb Street Apt#4
> Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
> P6B 1Z3
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Hernandez <carlosh(at)structuralaz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Converting Conical to Dynafocal engine mount. |
FYI - For those who have not visited their site in a while, ECI's web
address has changed to www.eci.aero
Sportypilot wrote:
>
> ECI does those, did a great job on mine, try eci2fly.com
>
> Dan
>
> Sent from cell
>
> On Jan 12, 2009, at 10:11 AM, "Terry Mortimore"
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Hi Gang:
>>
>> Years ago a local fellow had a Lycoming crankcase Conical mount
>> converted to a Dynafocal mount. He has since moved and I have a email
>> out to him.
>>
December 11, 2008 - January 13, 2009
RV-Archive.digest.vol-tv